After seeing Mr. Theyskens 's long , lean melancholy line , which he applied to pantsuits as well as to dresses , what was there to say about the tortured glamour of Riccardo Tisci 's first ready-to-wear show for Givenchy , the lazy reprise of black lace and nude chiffon dresses by John Galliano from his last Dior couture collection , the blunted edge of Veronique Branquinho 's once-hard femininity ?