But when the roster of DFP 's includes Tom Ford , Helmut Lang , Jil Sander , Miguel Adrover , Phoebe Philo -LRB- late of Chloe -RRB- and Olivier Theyskens , who was recently cut loose from the Paris house Rochas by its corporate parent , Procter & Gamble , you have to think that something more than Darwinian theory is at work .