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J ~**T jm-x • HIIHH Lines Are Snug and the Trimming Spare WITH a few exceptions, and these are practically all sports models, coats ap pear to be trying to see how little material they can use and still re main respectable. They are drawn tautly about the figure fastening low down at the side with a single fancy button. Yet so cleverly are they cut that there is no suggestion of a lack of grace. On the contrary, unless jou happen to be unusually large about the hips, they art exceedingly graceful. Silk coats are very much the vogue at the moment, and Roshanara crepe makes one both practical and smart. It is a wonderfully serviceable material. I am always singing its praises. Fur Trimmed. Black is very well liked and I have seen some stunning models recently in fancy weaves. Plain blocks alternating with lace. A new bib collar of sheer voile has the back almost like the front. In the center is lace insertion. The edges of the collar are trimmed with pyramids of lace, which are set over the voile, the picot loops extending to give a very lacey finish. Strands of color may be darned in for color if you like. For the wee miss of 6 there is a lovely little frock of sheer white voile decorated with tiny, tiny buds here and there. These are to be embroidered in delicate rose and green silks. Irish crochet edges a narrow rolling collar. This has a vest of contrasting with others of equal size having raised lines is a pattern frequently used in very handsome coats. These may or may not be colored in fur. The richness of Roshanara crepe, despite its practical qualities, forbids the use of the lighter and less expensive furs which are seen so much on flannel coats. For the crepe models, soft, richly sumptuous fox furs are favored, Gray or platinum is liked for black and the exquisite blue fox makes a biege crepe coat a dream of loveliness. Favored Colors. Biege, cocoa, caramel and similar shades are delectable in Roshanara crepe for the more youthful coat models. These are frequently shown without fur and have a new and interesting collar of very fine quilling of self-material, arranged in row after row. These are also used on gandy which is decorated with a daisy motif insert. This collar and vest give a distinctive touch to a dark dress of silk or voile. Gauntlet cuffs of organdy may also be trimmed with a narrow edge of filet. Worn across the back of a Jenny or a bateau neck so that the inverted pleats fall in jabot fashion at the back of the sleeves, a fine voile border hemstitched collar is distinguished because of its hand-made Irish lace inset, panel with three aster motifs and a dainty crocheted edging. Carved ivory bracelets are another Chinese note. The bell sleeves and for about 15 inches up the side seams. As in nearly all new models, the collar is so arranged as to be worn either snugly and smartly up about the throat, or standing stiffly upright. A concealed snap and fastener at either side keeps this in position when worn open. On the whole, there is less braid used than earlier in the season, and the vivid-toned braids are decidedly toned down. There is a liking for silver and gold effects, especially used at the side of a band of For Traveling. Kasha in plain tones is also very smart for traveling and leopard skin as a trimming adds the ultimate touch. If your coat is of the swagger type, you will do well to add the jaunty grace of a cape. But although cape backs for dress wear were charming earlier in the season, they are less frequently seen at the present time. Then there are those adorable affairs in fine French flannel, or in Botany, which is a slightly rougher weave. They are seen in rayishing tones, among which are the new lemon green, a cross between artichoke and almond; powder and Madonna blue, so much alike you can’t tell them apart; Monterey, which is a shade of rose with a great deal of henna and a touch of orange; a clear citron yellow and white. Charmeen, which was hailed with so much delight in the world of coats, does not seem as popular as it was. For one thing, in the darker colors, such as black and navy, in which it is at its best, it is a dreadful thing to keep clean. Every lightest speck of dust settles and sticks like a poor relation. Kasha cloth still holds good and the twills are still very popular for utility wear. Gray kasha with a collar dyed to match is a particularly happy choice for traveling, if it is to be worn over a black crepe frock. THE SCARFS THE THING A FASHIONABLE scarf can be made of white flannel with a black end. Above the end the scarf may be decorated with silhouettes. You may use crepe de chine, if you prefer. For this scarf, you will need yards of white flannel, 27 inches wide; % yard of black flannel, 27 inches wide; three skeins of black six-strand embroidery floss and a transfer pattern. Cut a strip of white flannel 13½ inches wide and 52 inches long. Cut two pieces of black flannel 10½ inches by 13½ inches wide. Baste one piece of black along each short end of white. With three strands of floss work buttonhole stitch ½-inch deep covering these joinings. Cut an oblong motif from transfer. Stamp on black flannel and appliqué to each end of scarf. Have the scarf hem stitched by machine all around, using black thread on black part and white on the white. Cut hemstitching in half to form picot edge. Tubular Scarf of Crepe de Chine. This scarf was made of purple crepe de chine and you will need one yard of purple crepe 40 inches wide, 1½ yards of lavender satin ribbon three inches wide, 2½ yards of the same shade of ribbon ½ inch wide. Cut two strips of crepe de chine 20 inches wide and 36 inches long. Cut one piece in half crosswise. Join a short end to each end of a 36-inch piece to make a scarf 72 inches long and 20 inches wide. Cut the ribbon into 20-inch strips; sew the top of a wide piece of ribbon over each seam. Hem opposite ends. Sew a narrow piece of ribbon 3½ inches above each end. Sew remaining piece between a narrow and a wide piece. Fold scarf lengthwise, wrong side out. Stitch one short end and the long side on the machine. Turn right side to form a tube. Turn in open edges and sew by hand so that the stitches are invisible. A Fringed Tie. For this tie you will need 4 yard of 36-inch orange crepe de chine, one skein of black embroidery silk and a transfer pattern. Cut the crepe de chine in half lengthwise. Seam two short ends together. Fold in half lengthwise. Cut away 12 inches at each end, making the tie 48 inches long with a seam at the center back. Measure two inches from one short end and midway between the fold and raw edges and stamp or transfer the desired monogram. Embroider in satin stitch. Turn the fold the other way so that the wrong side is out and seam the raw edges together, shaping it in center back. Make a 14-inch fringe at both ends by drawing out the cross threads. Turn wrong side in French Ties. You will need 4 yard of white 36-inch crepe de chine, one skein of black embroidery floss and a transfer pattern. If you want your tie finished in a bow, you must have a strip of 48-inch crepe de chine; without a bow only 42 inches and 2 inches wide. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right side out; stamp your design in center at one end. Unfold the piece and embroider it in black floss, working it in outline stitch. Fold piece in half lengthwise, wrong side out, seam raw edge together, finishing one end in a point and leaving other end open. Turn it to right side. Turn in raw edges of open end and sew it making the stitches invisible. When scrubbing floors, always scrub with the grain of the wood. Simplicity rules also in the hats that, accompany trim coats. This tricky little affair can even be made at home. Stock Your Pantry With Pickles DURING the winter months, when cold meat night comes around, nothing adds more to the savoriness of the meat than a good pickle or relish. But it is not only with cold meat that these savories combine well, for they are excellent served with either broiled or fried fish, steaks cutlets and ham. For Soups and Salads. Many of them may also be used as the basis of an appetizing salad, when fresh vegetables are scarce, and combined with other ingredients they will furnish a number of piquant sandwich fillings which are hard to equal. Minced pickles with cream cheese or peanut butter are particularly recommended for sandwiches. Going a little outside of the expected uses of pickles, sauces and relishes, try adding a little of them to soups, salad dressings, gravies and made dishes. It will give them a delicious and novel flavor that your friends will long to imitate. Com Relish. Cut the pulp from two dozen ears of corn, and chop finely one head of cabbage, four large onions and green peppers and one red pepper. Combine the chopped mixture with the corn, turn all into a preserving kettle and add one quart of vinegar, three cupfuls of sugar and half a cupful of salt. Bring to the boiling point, cook for ten minutes and then stir in three-quarters of a cupful of flour, mixed with one-quarter of a cupful of dry mustard, one teaspoonful of turmeric and one quart of cold vinegar. Let boil for one hour and seal as for canned fruit. Pickled Onions (Uncooked.) Remove the skin from very small white onions with a silver knife, and after washing, pack in sterilized jars, adding for each quart four shredded chili peppers and two tablespoons of white mustard seed. Fill the jars to cover with cold vinegar and seal air-tight. Chocolate Sauce. Peel 12 large ripe tomatoes and, two large white onions and chop separately very fine. Combine and add three minced green peppers, two tablespoons each of sugar and salt, two cupfuls of vinegar and one tablespoonful of ground cinnamon. Turn all into a preserving kettle and simmer for one hour and a half, seal air-tight in small jars. Tomato Shaker Sauce. Peel 18 juicy cooking apples, 11 large ripe tomatoes and 18 small white onions and remove the seeds from six green peppers. Chop all finely and place in a preserving kettle with one and a quarter cupfuls of seeded raisins, three cupfuls each of sifted raisins, two cupfuls of sugar and vinegar, two scant tablespoonfuls of ground ginger, two tablespoonfuls of salt, the juice from five lemons, half a teaspoonful of paprika and half a teaspoonful of curry powder. Simmer down until quite thick, like marmalade, and store as jelly. This sauce is particularly good to serve with baked beans. Dried Fig Loaf Cake. Two cups brown sugar, two cups hot water, three cups flour, one and a half cups chopped figs, one-fourth cup fat or butter, one teaspoon salt, one teaspoon cloves, one teaspoon cinnamon, one teaspoon soda. Mix sugar, fat, water, figs, salt and spices, bring to the boiling point, allow to boil five minutes. Set aside until cold. Add flour and soda which has been sifted. Bake in two greased loaf pans in a slow oven 45 minutes to pour out the flour. This cake will keep indefinitely like a fruit cake. As hot air rises and heat causes fermentation, do not store jams and pickles on a top shelf. 