text: C7o s?/7SK>er' 6/?e Cc?//of' e7$//7fer Sy /5hr-'£><sr*& 'Ti/rn^'/oyu' ts/jT/votv/p. /nppp /5’<piT/'/>'J<r&'S: TPPscr <ros?p k J Novel Fabrics and Simple Lines Are the Foundation of the Mode in Sportswear — Many New Ideas Make Knitwear Interesting. • T BHAT greater incentive to the wearing of sports clothes than models of the type pictured — all smart, practical and warmth-assuring. With the exception of riding togs and furs they cover the field quite satisfactorily, and tell the story of suits, knitwear, topcoats and knicker outfits with a most interesting fidelity. While it is merely a repetition to say that sports apparel is used for many purposes other than what the name strictly implies, it is necessary in any discussion of either fundamentals or details, since the appeal is made to all types of women, sports-loving or no. Viewing the entire field as an interesting entity, one concludes—even before one begins to analyze—that any particular interest centers in details rather than generalities, since lines are practically stabilized by the demands made upon the garments themselves. Flounces, godets, tiers and bouffant effects are wholly out of the question, and sportswear is a synonym for simplicity, the whole world over. But there are many changes from past seasons and many extremely gratifying. Improvements, not only in the general appearance, but in the practical comfort. Smart Suits Play Many Parts For business, for travel, for tramping, for any number of active purposes, the so-called sports suit is in great demand. It may be of tweed, of fleece, of Shetland, of any one of the many attractive, rough and ready novelty cloths that the season has brought forth, but it is plain of line, smart of cut and man-tailored in every detail. Jackets may vary in length, pockets in the number and way they slant, and collars vary in depth, but one's first impression is always one of tailored perfection. Such a suit is illustrated, and the quality of its charm is evidenced in its slimness, its smooth-lying collar and its nicety of detail. An unusual idea is expressed in the matching top line, but it is an idea worthy of general adoption, since it adds one more model to the two-in-one group that is constantly being augmented by amazing useful outfits. The coat is not only serviceable, when added warmth is required, but may be used separately over a one-piece dress or separate skirt and sweater. One is never quite sure what sports fashions are most truly acceptable until after the big football games, where the smartest women foregather and where the newest, most up-to-date outdoor apparel is displayed. With the exception of the knicker suits—and now and then one of these may be seen—every late fall and winter fashion in sportswear is Much in evidence. Smart fur coats—both long and short; furred coats; knitwear; all the clever offerings of prodigal fashion are on display. And the football season just past was no exception. Colors were interesting, for they were bright—without being too bright—without being too gay—and one realized the difference between a color, which might be crude and bizarre, and a color tone, which could be neither. The soft shades of green and brown—tortoise-shell especially—blue and the shade called "brick" were, apparently, the greatest favorites, and one saw much of plaids, stripes and novelty fabrics in attractive color combinations. Camel, the color, and camel’s hair, the fabric, were also seen. Swagger Top Coats Wear Furs The snug comfort of the fur-covered topcoat is apparent in the shadow-striped garment pictured. It is roomy. It is interestingly cuffed and pocketed and its collar will do valorous service "whep, try, do blow." Not all the sports coats are furred, indeed, there are quite as many models without furs as with them. There is no doubt of the effectiveness of fox, badger, civet, wolf or bear against soft English fleeces, or the striped or plaid novelty cloths, but the fur is by no means a necessity of fashion. Models may be full flared, or slim of line; belted or not; but there will be a convertible collar and capacious pockets, and perhaps just a faint line of leather piping and leather buttons, to lend variety. The swagger raglan sleeve is well-liked, and the set-in sleeve with wide arm-hole is popular. There is a certain luxury—the luxury. Of freedom, we might call it—about these coats that is indeed welcome to the well-dressed woman. It is a luxury that obtains in the realm of coats alone, and most especially in the province of sports coats. For active sports there is nothing to take the place of the knicker suit that assures the utmost in freedom of movement. Such a suit will, of a necessity, employ a practical material—tweed, velveteen, corduroy, or one of the many novelty wools, and it will consist of jacket and knickers, the former differing widely, but the latter quite uniform in their general appearance. The knicker suits of winter are quite different from those of the summer season, just as the sports of summer differ widely from those of winter. The latest models have a comfortable roominess, but they are strapped and buttoned to keep out the cold, and are warmly lined and interlined. Two very different models are pictured, the one of velveteen, the other of plaided wool. The former has a surpliced box coat, with high collar and tight, cuffed sleeve, while the latter has a belled sleeve, scarf collar and straight, one-button coat. The former has a small, slit pocket, and the latter a capacious patch pocket—and a belt. Stout practical shoes— waterproofed—wool hose, and a plain sports hat or tam-o-shanter are integral parts of the knicker costume. Knitwear For Sports And Semi-Sports Once designers had proven the possibilities of knitwear, they knew no rest, and as time goes on they become positively feverish in their attempts to provide variety. So wide is the choice, this present season, that there is no possibility of disappointment in the search for something worthwhile. This latitude is especially noticeable in the sweater mode, where there are coat models—the pictured way, and many other ways—and slip-on or pull-over models, the latter the newest fashion. Many of these sweaters are hand-loomed of the softest, finest wool, and their colors are very beautiful. But knitwear includes coats, capes, suits, frocks and knickerbockers suits, so many different trimmings are possible. Applique—of silk, cloth, brocade or leather; embroideries of chenille, soutache or silk; velvet and fur—these are not merely possibilities, they are actualities on many of the smartest knitted garments. Brushed wools and silks—the latter quite new—are smart and different; a new red—called "love apple” is being shown; the Russian blouse is influencing the knitwear mode; and matched sets of hat, bag and scarf are being featured for the winter. In general, these notes may prove of interest to her who contemplates adding one or more garments to her sports wardrobe. Pleats are just as good—and better—than they have ever been; black and white and tan and brown—perhaps one should say the tans and browns—are favorite color combinations; the short, separate coat, boxed for preference, is to be found in many materials; and plaids are the thing! The normal waistline is here; the monogram remains, as a trimming motif, but has moved to the sleeve; and belts are back again. One may know sportsw. ear only when she has studied its details, for on details depend both its smartness and its charm. ROVELMVS Qr ^ahdwcaP-^ f ASHTON need not be kept from throwing down the gauntlet, this season, by lack of the gauntlet Itself—indeed, she may have her choice of many for the throwing, and might easily be kept from this finality of action by her indecision as to what her choice should be. Which is a roundabout way of saying that hand wear is no longer a mere choice of length and color, as in the days gone by, but is, rather, a most serious business. In spite of the prophecy that the craze for fancy gloves was only the whim of a season, we are finding it as much a fashion as ever, so that it is quite possible to spend many hours in the selection of one's own gloves and those one plans for Christmas gifts. While the offerings of the present season are no less fancy than they have been, they show an inclination to the shorter cuff, except, of course, when the glove is frankly long. At times this gauntlet is not over an Inch or an inch and a half in width. There is a decided flare for gloves that match or harmonize with dress or suit, and the prevalent fashion of the long, tight sleeve demands the fancy handwear that is so truly stunning, If properly chosen. It is well to remember that the short woman, with a short arm, is not wise in choosing a deep cuffed glove, for it makes her arm seem shorter, and decreases her apparent height. One uses the word "apparent" In connection with height advisedly, for height is, more often than not, a matter of appearance. When gloves are demanded for wear with the very short sleeve or the sleeveless dress, then, truly, there is a problem to solve. A glove would, indeed, have to be extremely long to meet such a problem so the twelve-button length is being shown for this purpose. And the very short, practically wristless glove is sometimes seen. Straps appear, but they seem to be resigning in favor of the clasp, just because we have become accustomed to straps, one supposes. But it is not the length, the size, or the fabric—though all three must be considered—but the trimming, that interests. In the average display of handwear there are almost as many different decorative motifs as there are styles and colors, which is saying a great deal. For instance, a pique capeskin glove—frankly sportslike in its manner—has a brown, turnback cuff, absolutely unadorned, against its champagne color background. A brown suede glove has a cuff with a curved edge, trimmed with an appliqué of brown moire; but another brown suede glove has a cuff embroidered in green, and all the overseams are stitched in green. The black and white combination presents the most possibilities, and there are white gloves with all black cuffs, black gloves with all white cuffs, or the one or the other embroidered or appliqued or trimmed with cut-out work in the opposite color. And black gloves take other colors for their decoration — Paisley, embroideries in Chinese colors, and insets of bright red, green or blue. (The Paisley note in handwear is a new one, and is introduced through the medium of embroidery, printing or embossing.) As it is with the black and white handwear, so it is with the fashionable shades of the season. No possible decoration seems to have been omitted from the displays, and no conceit seems too quaint or unusual to find acceptance. Of all the accessories, handwear is, at present, the most decorative. FOR THE FAVORITE OF FASHION FRENCH gray vanity of metal, artistically jeweled, or a Chinese lantern evening bag, with deep, single loop fringe. A festoon of garnets, set in antique gold, for a necklace, or a bit of the old Magyar Jewelry that is so fashionable. A Chinese shawl of heavy silk with deep fringe and exquisite embroideries in one of the wonderful shades of Domergue blue. A dozen bottles of perfumed bath salts and a huge jar of bath talcum—the jar itself an exquisite bit of artistically designed glass. A boudoir vanity case, Chinese in its inspiration, that is a complete make-up box, even to the mirror in the cover. FOR THE INVALID OR SHUT-IN A potted plant in a jar of Spanish pottery—blue, green or yellow—after the manner of the patois of Spain. A breakfast set in quaint design of sunny yellow and blue to make the meal more appetizing and start the day a-right. A tuck-in pillow or two, fluffy soft and practically covered in chintz or heavy silk for the weary hollows in a chair. A sewing bag doll, gayly costumed and completely outfitted with all the necessary equipment and capacious pockets for unfinished work. A portable lamp of the sort that may be clamped onto the bed or the chair or the table. An invalid’s answer to “Let there be light!” A cashmere scarf from Scotland, exquisite not only in its warmth and softness but in its color harmony. A true necessity in a drafty room. FOR LITTLE FOLK TO PLAY WITH, A wooden rooster that flaps his wings as he rolls along on wheels, or a mechanical dog, fiercely amusing, that turns back somersaults. A velocipede with a side car carrier so the gallant little man may favor the lady of his choice with a ride. A tinkly little player piano in upright or baby grand form, that may be operated as a piano or with a player attachment, really a music box. Prizefighter dolls in set of two, all ready for the fray, complete with trunks and gloves and the usual bathrobe and towel. A parade of wooden animals—Egypt Inspired—or a steel Peter Rabbit that can be made to strike many whimsical poses. A quite true-to-life toy elephant, mounted on rollers, and constructed so Strongly a child may ride it. FOR THE HOME KEEPER A bit of Majolica ware from the little hill town of Deruta, Italy—a tea set, a bowl or a two-handled Roman vase. An early American quilt or a hand woven bedspread for the four poster bed in her guest room. A screen panel, a bench cover, a chair back or seat of old needlepoint or Petit point embroidery. A piece of Venetian glass in the colors of the shifting waves, the design symbolic of the sea. Candle sticks, candelabra, vases—a suggestion. A wide-mouthed, shallow bowl; a knocker; a candle snuffer or bellows of English brass. A Colonial, French or Italian mirror, to increase the apparent size of the room and throw back a happy reflection of Christmas day fastidiousness. The Choice of Children’s Books CHRISTMAS always brings forth the question—"What book shall I select for John or Anne or little Barbara?" and to answer becomes increasingly difficult with every succeeding year, since the list of children’s books, growing rapidly, contains as much chaff as wheat, if not more. With the older classics we are quite familiar, and the old stories that were dear to us as children, we buy with certainty of their good influence. From ten to fourteen there may be "The Three Musketeers," "Kenilworth," "Captains Courageous," "The Swiss Family Robinson," the fairy tale books of Grimm and Hans Anderson. "Alice In Wonderland," and the Louisa M. Alcott books—all standard works for children. But the little folk of the present day are all omnivorous readers, and modern story telling methods—extended now to the radio—make it imperative that one and books that are interesting and fairly instructive to the youthful mind. Nature stories, especially those of Burgess; books for the young inventor on radio, aeroplanes, automobiles and wireless telegraphy; adventure tales, that are built around Daniel Boone, Kit Carson, Buffalo Bill and other historical characters that lived and were brave and bold in the West; and fascinatingly written books like Zane Gray's "Tales of Lonely Trails," "East of the Sun and West of the Moon," by Kay Neilson, and "The American Boy’s Book of Signs, Signals and Symbols"—all these are possibilities. The trend of modern literature for the youthful mind is toward morality and helpfulness, which makes it very nice indeed for the old-fashioned person who considers a book the best sort of a Christmas gift—and it is, whether the person be eight years old or eighty years young. There are books on how to swim, Boy Scout activities and objectives, how to make candy interesting most directly to the little girl, but indirectly—the little boy, and books of riddles, conundrums, puzzles and games, many of them arranged with the fundamental idea of sharpening mathematics. The selection of any one of these books—mentioned by class or by name should be eminently satisfactory. Not only to the giver, but to the recipient. gif S'&sG/P/C' C'Cke77XX' Top—Fabric Gloves, Imitating Feather, Wear Stltclierj'i Strappings, Cut-Out Work Anti Applique. Bottom—Black On White, White On Black, Gauntlets, Mousquotalres—So Run Their Quaint Conceits y ) ■ ;. , • . •• ;■ x, .. A ... x; ' . ■*"” /r^7z^/yyz? ttps&ctos??' ! p?// /?3'jicsypp?sy'c>£~ c^~ zz^z^7zr^/y yf-0/p <s>°o/P7\r Fine Leathers Make Fine Handbags And Vanities—Beads Lead The Wav To Smartness. 