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J.'^iP '2^'-" iiffniT^____r ■-' -' > ,r*-' T '>' ' >- MB*** a*V**VF '''jQ ' '^Wl_H_Bf\:.^. -$' v". a _j .._, .-,. ■. 1 *_t- a*i^__B_' r»» L, '^f'' _____lfl_____ J 4^*^_H (B BRral^^^^t J^**ffl^^ : ■■■' ... y. •'. •••_.- -_fli" .'^ '-"'■•■' "* ■'. _iBB_BI pßß||^^ —: tjST^imm » _;_____! '.^S^cX^jb •": Bttw / 1 sffgffiy^ Ti&^&^t**' y&^^*~&jl' y'^PC*^. 3S_3S3fl_£_^ S______s_______ J**-sLjteiti__ri-__S_. What to Put in the Traveling Box - Clumsy Conditions to Be Considered - A Variety of Motor Coats - The Tailored Touring Frock - Hats, Veils and Gloves - Fortunate, Indeed, Is the woman Who, with the advent of spring and the threatened discomforts of housecleaning, Is Invited to join a party arranging an automobile tour through France, England or America. She Is only too delighted to turn her back upon paper bangers, painters and plumbers, to say nothing of gossip uncut coming marriages and divorces, and trots gayly around to consult dressmakers and moths upon that most important question - What to take with her in that traveling box of limited size, but seemingly elastic possibilities - automobile trunk. If the tour is to include Scotland, a fur-lined long coat will be an absolute necessity, and while its outer side will, of course, be waterproof, It should be of some material like English cheviot or a plain-faced cloth that It may do duty. If necessary, for a street or a general traveling wrap. For the southern part of England, any portion of France and most sections of the United States during the spring season, the mohair, taffeta and satin coats, such as were worn at the Southern resorts during the Lenten period, will be found most comfortable. An exceedingly pretty garment of this character is a rubberized garment of white and black checked taffeta. affeta, modeled on ulster lines, Its double-breasted fronts closing with self-covered large buttons, Its shoulders trimmed with wide straps, terminating at the bust, Its wide patch pockets, pointed edges and its loose sleeves, gathered into roomy arm-size. - Long and Loose. The first mission of the touring coat. A Maid's Clothes and Her Duties - Necessity of Neat Appearance and Cheerful Manner. Rather enviable in many instances is the position of the neat-banded Phyllis who hastens "upstairs," downstairs and into my lady's chamber" in response to the summons of that personage's bell. Indeed, it is chiefly owing to her trim figure, smooth hair and softly shod feet that many a girl owes her comfortable home and generous wage, whether she be serving in the capacity of general parlor maid or as her mistress' personal attendant. A parlor maid's duties are confined chiefly to the floor on which are situated the drawing and dining rooms. Consequently, she is quite as much in evidence as are the butler and the second man, and must always be neatly dressed, from the bow of her dainty cap to the tip of her polished slippers. Where a full staff of 12 domestics is maintained, the parlor maid's duties are not onerous, for then she need only answer the door when the butler and his underling are whatever its material or design, is that it be long enough to practically cover the frock, and so roomy that one may experience no difficulty in getting into it hurriedly, if necessary. If only one coat is to be taken on the trip it should be of a color that is practical and a material that is dust-proof, warm enough for moderate weather and not so thick as to prove burdensome should the sunshine too warmly. Adjustable Capes Convenient. To offset the difficulty of being burdened with an exceedingly heavy coat, many women order those having attachable capes in three sections of varying lengths, the longer one reaching to the waist, front and back, and covering the elbows. Such capes provide nicely for any additional warmth desired and are exceedingly becoming, save to an unusually short and stout figure. But they are not expected to trim the coats which are as conscientiously tailored as a morning street suit. They have perfect fitting shoulder forms and wide, but not awkwardly voluminous, slightly gored fronts and backs, well shaped about the bust and hips or fully plaited into deep, wide yokes, outlined with narrow bias bands. Collars and Cuffs Vent. Collars and cuffs are of the trimmest and designed to be useful as well as ornamental. In some instances the fronts of the double-breasted coats turn backward above the breast in broad revers, continuing into wide turnover collars. In other instances the collar is simply busy in the dining room, and be constantly about the principal rooms, picking up water may have fallen to the floor, setting in order disarranged furniture, books and papers, dusting the bric-a-brac, and at all times ready to assist some member of the family or a guest. She is supposed to attend to the telephone. If it is located down stairs, and to be able to take all messages accurately as well as to answer intelligently. If there is not a butler, the parlor maid is kept busy all day long from the hour at which she serves the breakfast, whether on individual trays or in the dining-room, until the house is closed for the night, and always she should maintain an immaculate appearance and a cheerful manner. In some households, it is the pleasure of the mistress that all the maids, of whatever grade, shall wear black mohair, cashmere or sateen frocks. These are usually of one piece, with skirts long and wide, upstanding band, which buttons snugly under the chin, and this is by far the most practical in such utility garments as rain and auto coats. Sleeves are wide and of full length, usually of the semimoncent type and side plaited into the roomy arm size, although many are of the type that puff somewhat above the elbows and stand out from the shoulders because closely gathered at the top. Cuffs are an important detail and show many variations upon the turn-back model, being pointed or squared at their outer edge, trimmed with insets of leather, kid or satin to match the collar. Or merely with several buttons run through prominent buttonholes. In those sleeves with a rather wide, open cuff, a wind sleeve, fitting snugly about the wrist, is absolutely essential. Always Take Along a Sweater. The sweater is gradually developing into a really natty and becoming garment, and one which, should never be left behind when preparing for a motor tour, especially in the United States, where changes of temperature are sudden. For the woman who dislikes capes enough to conceal the ankles, and side plaited or gored, attached by means of a girdle to a plaited blouse or shirtwaist with long, full sleeves. With such a dress are worn plain white linen turnover cuffs and collars, and the front of the frock is protected by a white pinafore, and there is invariably a white cap. Sometimes this is the year-round costume of the maids from night until morning, but in many instances it is worn only in the cold weather and donned after the servants' noon dinner, which precedes the luncheon hour of the family. In this event the maids wear during the morning print gowns of light tint similar to those used for the uniform of hospital nurses, covered, one might say enveloped, with heavy white linen bib aprons and supplemented with caps which are often merely flat loops of linen with scalloped edges, drawn together in the center with black velvet bows. The sweater is really a boon, as the worsted clings so closely to the figure that it adds slightly to the bulk. White Serge Coats Smart. White serge motor coats are considered exceedingly smart and are much affected by French women, as well as Americans touring "la belle France." They fit smoothly and almost closely about the shoulders, and are so cleverly sloped in the back and beneath the arms as to almost outline the figure after the manner of Empire garments. Their fronts are single-breasted, and close with three large silver buttons, the lower one set several inches above the waistline, and they have wide turnover collars with notched revers. The sleeves are what may be termed "moderate puffs," terminating at the wrist with broad, turn-back cuffs shaped to match the pockets. While these coats are not rainproof, they do not readily gather dust. In sunshiny weather they look wonderfully chic and are quite worn enough for spring use. If worn with the useful sweater. Heavy Cord Chains. It is quite possible to dress up a rather There are many households, however, in which the maid's uniform is of pure white, save for the bow on the top of the cap. This is usually the case at a large country estate or at the fashionable summer colonies where there is much outdoor life for all of the household and plenty of space in which to dry clothing, for each maid is required to do her own laundry work and to do it well. For a cold weather, white frock of this character the material is usually of Indian head cotton or pique, but in the summer more latitude is permitted them and many maids are allowed to wear short linen skirts and lingerie blouses, providing they are long-sleeved, cover the throat properly and are not of the peek aboo order. With these, of course, are worn aprons, whether they be of heavy linen, deep of hem and tabbed of jib, Joining with a stringed band or en prince se, or exceedingly ornate affairs of handkerchief linen, plain or dotted Swiss, simple motoring coat without going to a great deal of trouble and expense. One method is to close the fronts of a rubberized crepe de chine, taffeta or pongee with attachable chains formed of large links made from heavy cord covered with silk matching the garment, and Joining them to huge buttons made of similar materials, or of round balls of colored crystal in the tints of the various presents. Now so generally used for necklets—amethyst, garnet or topaz. In the case of white mohair or serge coats, such as those designed for use or show— at the races, these highly ornamental buttons are joined by gold or silver chains composed of large links. Perfection of Cat and Tailoring. Some of the most recently imported motor coats owe their smart appearance entirely to the perfection of cut and tailoring. They are built along the directoire lines and developed in pongee of natural tone, with flat, turn-down collars of black liberty silk, the widely plaited sleeves terminating with black silk cuffs and the big buttons silk covered and black embroidered. Another coat, similar trimmed with lace insertions and frills and ribbon decorated. With such pinafores, go frilly caps of matching materials of oblong, square or triangular shaping such as are worn by stage maids who have not an infant in charge. These latter are generally provided with large sized stringed caps, which are worn alike for the street, traveling or at home, although the long, simply made apron is discarded occasionally, particularly if an outer wrap is necessary. The clothing of a lady's personal attendant is not governed by the hard and fast dress rules pertaining to the housemaids. Her frocks, although generally black in cold weather, may be less simply fashioned and her aprons and cups are usually frivolous affairs, especially if she be quite youthful. Elderly ladies' maids, and notably those who have been for many years in the service of one family, usually take privileges in the matter of their garb and are not required to stick to lines. The text is of dull blue pongee, with black accessories and black embroidered blue silk. Hats for Long Tour. Women preparing long automobile tours realize that it is impossible to either wear or to carry an elaborate hat. Accordingly, they select one of the most practical types, relying upon the enveloping veil for ornament. The rule to be observed in selecting a motor hat is to have it as small as can be becomingly worn, and of a color to harmonize with the coat and preferably trimmed with matching material, as may well be done in the case of a crepe de chine, pongee, taffeta or satin. Some of the nattiest of the recently designed motor caps have straw or chip brims and crowns of material like the coat, the band trimmings of kid, leather or satin harmonizing with the coat trimmings. The flat turban is still exceedingly popular; the modified "cowboy" promised to be much worn by the young women and there is quite a wide hat whose crown sets so tightly to the head and whose brim dips so gracefully that a veil may be drawn over it with pleasing effect. Automobile Veil Fa. A cord in the upper hem of the chiffon or net veil shapes it to the brim of the hat. The bottom is shirred with another hem run with ribbon, and this is tied in a big bow which falls in long loops and ends well down onto the skirt. This arrangement gives the veil a bagging effect which at the moment is considered tremendously swagger. As the days grow warmer, women who study the effects of veilings from a purely utilitarian standpoint are likely to substitute chiffon for the English mesh nets. These let in more air and are exceedingly becoming to the complexion, especially in white. The browns are good, too; they preserve the cuticle from sunburn more than those of any other color. Washable Motoring Veilings. If the tour is to be a protracted one, it is not only advisable for the fair motorist to provide herself with a generous supply of veils but with fabrics which will withstand water. One of these is the washable chiffon veiling which comes in lengths of a yard and a half to three yards, and has hemstitched edges. Another is the white and pale tinted Russian net, which, when made up, with embroidered net borders, gives the wearer a bridelike appearance. They are almost as elaborate as the more costly veils of silk chiffon with hand embroidered floral borders, and ends, which, however, are considered none too handsome to be worn with a practical cape coat or rubberized mohair or satin. Flexible White Gauntlet Gloves. The fair motorist who intends to take her turn at the wheel will do well to provide herself with a pair of the new flexible wrist gauntlet gloves with an extension cuff measuring fully six inches from the base of the thumb to the stitched edge. It is secured at the wrist by a strap and fastener, and as the entire glove is without lining, it is exceedingly flexible and leaves the hand as though perfectly free. Another type of glove greatly in favor with automobile enthusiasts who study comfort while touring is the washable white and natural tone chamois, which is to be had in mousquetaire and button styles, and may be as readily washed as in a pocket handkerchief. The frock to be worn beneath the mo toring coat deserves quite as much thought as the outergarment, in that it will be in evidence at the inns where luncheons . are taken and should there fore be . pretty and •. becoming, although not of a character to show the wear and tear of travel. Large pattern black taf feta looks very smart if made Into a walking skirt, with biased front seam, i plaited back, closely fitting side gores and a trim little shirtwaist, tucked and teath ' _,-.,__.■*.* tii/i, is.. *: '*-..-"_■ .hi .-. >, »-.*,:*** '... ■■-. ■•-W--'(---: .* v Jrvt .*-•■■ T.-r^V-St*'™:-•■■■.»: • closely to white caps and aprons. In the house, however, they usually wear black China silk aprons over a simple frock, and when traveling with the ladles of the household a dark-colored neatly tailored cloth or linen coat and skirt suit, with ■ harmonizing bat and gloves. YY A bouse or lady's maid ls expected to wear soft-soled shoes when moving about the rooms, and at no time when, ln at tendance to appear ln any sort of con-, splcuons footgear or attire. . She Is I ex pected to give careful attention to her personal grooming, .. being sure that j her hair Ib always kept free from' dust and | not. frowsy, her teeth sightly s and f her breath sweet. Although a parlor maid's duties Involve a certain amount of rough labor she should be able to keep ber nails in good condition tbat they may not of -1 fend the eye's of those I whom she serves. She should cultivate a low pitched voice, and if there are small children in the stitched, or with a jumper attached to the skirt belt, so that the frock may be in one piece, chiffon taffeta, in Copenhagen and navy blue, black, brown, and beaver, makes up into serviceable jumper frocks for motoring and may be trimmed with soutache braid or fine cord bordering the neck and sleeves and girdle or arranged to run down the front, forming a princess panel. Value of Glimpses. In planning a Jumper frock to be worn almost constantly during a motoring tour of many weeks, too much care cannot be bestowed upon its garments. Instead of the yoke and three-quarter-length under sleeves of cross-barred or checked mousseline used for house gowns, those to be taken, would best be of handkerchief linen and Valenciennes lace such as any hotel maid can launder in half an hour's time. It is sometimes exceedingly awkward for the women members of a morning party to find themselves without a trained gown when stopping for the night at a fashionable hostelry, where the majority of the patrons are dining in conventional evening garb. In England and Scotland, this custom is so general that it is positively embarrassing to appear at dinner without a trained skirt and with a high-necked bodice. To meet this emergency, a clever New York modiste hat designed what she terms the utility evening gown. It is of rather heavy black satin, lined, and of princess shape, embroidered all round the V-cut bodice, the elbow sleeves, the skirt hem and the slashed side seams, with heavy white silk picked out with silver tinsel, and worn over a black or white neck slip having elbow sleeves and rounded neck. Such a gown is inconspicuous at a restaurant or a playhouse, and takes up scarcely any trunk space. Importance of Negligees. To leave home without putting into the bag or the trunk a negligee of some sort would be to court, all sorts of discomfort, for after an exceptionally long run, every woman needs the relaxation of her kimono and her slippers. There are innumerable soft, noncrushable fabrics of which negligees may be made, but none prettier than the chalices in Persian patterns or the thin cashmeres trimmed with wash ribbons. Some tourists, however, rely upon matinee jackets matching their silk petticoat, and these, of course, require the minimum of space and answer perfectly for lounging purposes, but not for bath robes nor to facilitate bastet flight from a hotel in case of fire. Noncrushable Lingerie. Fine linen and lace lingerie should have no place in the motorist's box, as it takes up altogether too much room, musses readily, and cannot be hastily laundered. All underwear should be soft silk, like China or pongee, trimmed simply with the narrowest of fine lace edging, or outlined about the neck, and sleeves with feather stitching. Such garments are easily rolled and pushed into odd corners, and if washed out the last thing at night will be perfectly dry by morning. This is a time of ties. Those of narrow stripes of colored messaline have ends embroidered in dots of harmonizing tone, and are used. As a finishing touch for tall. ored Jackets or with severely finished linen shirt waists. Natural colored pongee ties used with motoring coats are embroidered to match the garment's collar and cuffs, and twilled silk, brilliantly lined, neck scarfs are knotted four-in-hand fashion below turned-over stiff linen collars worn with the plainer type of tailored street suit. Japanese embroidered pongee silks are used chiefly as trimmings for negligee hats meaning those of the cowboy type. Household be exceedingly careful in the manner of her speech, taking pains to avoid slang expressions and anything pertaining to gossip. She should always remember that so long as she accepts the wages of her employer, her duty is to do all in her humble powers to preserve the honor, and the dignity of the home before all the world. Home comforts, which appeal to the thrifty housewife, are the laundry and shoe bags, which come in pairs, made of pale-grounded denim, printed with bright flowers and foliage. The laundry bags, to be of genuine service, should be over half a yard square, while that for the shoes should include two tiers of four pockets each. Both receptacles are substantially backed with burlaps, bound with heavy self-colored tape. 2 and 1, trimmed with ribbons matching the floral tones. 