text: Mi f yf Toe .tesaiM I' j' * vs' ** - 4 ' 3 ?> v , 1 _jk > v. ' S *? :: * *. % - ;.|< .-?fe* * &wi t^wsL ?dm " I IVj 1 1 J^ I pr?-* r-. /mk: y .'J./ 1/3$, * y ' ?; * f *fF * i III. : T -?;> >5 r ''. 4 ff " .. i { I - ; ' r i. . : . . - , f ': . v * ~ ' .... . r. - ' - ' t -e-, py . : . v-..':.;ZM ' .... > "* - -' . * ! 'M " r / - . - ' f>. .,4 1 ti- v ' t; ! V' *<' . ? .. . ? .? . j v "M& m Wkn } r ; A , l '^.^ ,/ -. : . ' ' '-r5( j" ; _.. - i- ' v ''- " ,-; * ' Vvf3?'t^ : V-; . .. / SUL.IC J^D { * PR1NO costume* are always more j a W .... !??.. I. >? -?l~- - -'< o??r? bp?- I V. ....V.T....,,, V.V., ea, sor. th?-y appear In some new phase ^ that makes them seem absolutely the n*w and distinctive, even though 1 t.k;?? materials on close Inspection bear a sm CO* marvelous r-< mb'.ance to those we have for many. many years. ha It 1* inrrel:tle. however, that year after ?1 >ear and season after season, especially wr m? that ther> Hie so many extremes as regards i-lothe* during the >ear, it is po.s- f,? Ib'.e to haw such a variety of style and co! color, and even the woman who has a mania t/.w , stiph an extent thai **!a .. ....... ? ao he Is always buying them has now no we difficulty In having each anil every one of n? her numerous K??wns quite different from Ih* other. There does not appear to be any fixed rule as regards material or color this year, but it is noticeable that one or two materials combined in the same costume are thought very smart, and certainly the effect is attractive, for even when the same color is seen the fact that it is in a different material gives it a different appearance. Since the custom of taking afternoon tea is not only well established in this country, but now in danger of becoming an untimely feast. It is astonishing to note the numerous little dainties and extra trimmings which are then being served to please and delight the appetite. It is no longer merely a cup of tea and a slice of thin bread and butter that may be expected between 4 and 5 o'clock; Jam has been added to the list, and often hot Scotch scones and English muffins besides the tea table proper there stands usually a sort of rack table, pyramidal in shape and having three shelves, one above the other and round like plates. Each one is then covered with attractive china holders, and one of one or two kimls is suggested in which Jam and biscuit are used. Her guest prefers one of her guests to the other. She spreads it for him herself before passing it on a small plate. This little attention appears very gracious. Among the hosts, those of "health" have a reputation of being "frequent" and "frequent" in their own kitchens. Other hostesses have fine, flat wafers of whole wheat covered with chocolate in their own kitchens before serving. They are then above reproach to kiss with tea. The biscuit is digestible, the chocolate taste is tasty and nourishing. Biscuits covered with cheese, on the contrary, while highly agreeable to the taste, are avoided by those hypercritical about their diet. Strawberry Jam is undoubtedly the favorite for spreading on English muffins, of Blackberry Jam or guava is chosen to spread on the health food biscuit, especially for the sake of the health food. SUGAR, COSTUME, and other fabrics are available at our store. While it's essential to have the different shades of the same color, it's very easy to carry them out on account of having so many different materials used at the same time. There are, of course, any number of patterns and attractive cloth and veiling themes and silk ones as well, that are good enough to wear, and often in fact, almost always?there is a coat of silk also. But somehow, the charm of velvet is more apparent in those cos-settes that are made of cloth, veiling, chiffon, or batiste with silk coats the same but for even in a darker or lighter shade. And these silk coats are most charmingly attractive in their rather fanciful design and are more becoming to the dressmaker. In the original novelty of shape and effect, as black as color, for there are a number of shades this year that have already gained favor, and although it must be admitted, they are somewhat conspicuous, at the same time they are effective and as a hair becoming. For the first spring wear, when the costume is left off, the lighter weight was made with a serge costume or cheviot for the same wear comes into favor. These are of spring costumes, and are very trim, neat, and becoming, while every woman who goes in for a morning tea, will find that they are very trim, neat, and becoming. Afternoon Tea, many of those made of graham or whole wheat Scotch scones are spread only through the middle with fresh butter. Less than 3 are very similar to ordinary soda biscuits, and are invariably served hot. In size, they are little larger than a quarter of a dollar. The number is at some people can make a disappear is therefore readily countenanced. Wafer toast finds a place at afternoon. In making it, the bread is cut as thin as possible and it is then toasted until exhausted. It is never buttered. Sliced lemon, which Is preferred in genal to cream or milk with afternoon tea. to1 is also a little extra trimming this win- sir r From two to three cloves are stuck fea the soft part of each slice with the ug iject of giving an extra ilavor to the tea. tht is desirable, however, to test the brand i tea with the cloves before serving it to abi iends. as some blends of tea are affected |JOi uch more agreeably by the addition of in uvea than others. Again, sliced limes are [a:rved Instead of lemon with delicately os ivored teas. By many they are liked art [ceedltigly. while others regard the ljuio- ! 0t) ition leniently as one of the season's i ?-> jvelties. C0( Whin cske appears at afternoon tea Hie tie shion rages for a rich pound cake allow- <_-?-< # through it many large raisins. Ku- ha peaiis invariably refer to it as "Ameri- ret n plum cake" and regard it as a spe- fui ilty of this country. In entertaining wo reigners. therefore, it is perhaps the most sm ceptable cake to offer. j g . . IS ha Character is made slowly and by degrees, om i coral reefs are built up by a multitude da ' tiny creatures, whose united labors are clo rong enough to breast the ocean.?llome th: otes. lb i ^ : , '^ < -: 'S*. * ./V'."'1 v,rK * "'; *' v '? . .'?r'-" '.. 'v'-'i^ r. /" , i 4, 'i'" '# * ! Iljjp IN NE SS - H lv M & ' '* '. W V jfl . H *l B s %vf' ' fl 1-V t*. TV ? <K< j Hi ; ,-y. :. H? Cj-cyr&i rough outfit makes a point of having least one tailored costume, and that the old-fashioned plain order of crepe gored skirt and the half-fitting three-quarter coat, these gowns are no ger considered smart enough for anything but useful wear, and the tailored that is the most popular and, in fact, most practicable is found more elaborate and trimmed effectively with velvet braid and always with some finish of material to take away any appearance of style. The Invisible plaids or checks still fashionable for this sort of gown the stripes the year are considered better, and there is more variety to be found among them. Here are charming gowns, again, of black and dark blue with a hair stripe of white or gray or a hair stripe of lighter shade. These are made with the only trimming turned-down collar of velvet of a lighter shade, and once again the inside collar of pique are seen. They are now becoming fashion, which for a time is set aside. For the woman who lives in country, these plainer tailored gowns are indispensable for traveling and going out and are always in demand. They are certainly most becoming, but owe their dignity to the cut and fit and finish rather than to the color or the model. Like a boa, ostrich feathers are first laid aside, it is necessary to have some light ruche so that change from fur about the throat to a coat collar may not be too sudden. This year, neckpieces, skins, etc., will be available somewhat earlier than is usually expected, for spring gowns must be done on April 1 and, naturally, the winter fur coats will never do with a new lightweight tama. Let and fashion ruches are always exceptionally pretty and give just the right touch to frocks, but if real warmth is desired, then a marabout, coque, or ostrich feather is best for the present, the weight ruche being made use of when days are warmer. There is as yet nothing especially new at the marabout or ostrich feather. Both round boas and flat stoles are vogue and there are many shaped colors and cape effects that are rather smart, trich, and coque feather flat boas that white on one side with a color on the other are attractive, as are the mixtures of life with a color. Then there are the fine and maribout neckpieces with little tips through them that are extremely pretty. Plain round feather boas have to be unusually long and full to be very smart, for after wearing the wide stoles all winter, a small feather boa could look rather poor and anything but adorned coque feathers in any shade that best with the cloth suit are still to be had and are very little different from the ones seen some years back. For the street, the tones are most in vogue and with a suit the boa is better a shade darker in a tint paler than the costume itself, the bright shades of blue, pink, and mauve. OR "VOILE" SILK. DESIGNS " . "WIDDED SIXTH STREET. MAN'S BUSINESS SUIT, THEY SEEM TO BE APPRECIATED AND HAVE A TOWNERFUL STYLE WITHOUT BEING CONSIDERED OF ANY REAL INTEREST IN THE BUSINESS. Veiling or voile costumes are more practical so soon as the weather becomes warm, when all the costumes made of even the lightest cloth are seen. This year there is a larger variety than even to be found in these materials, and both in coloring and plain there are so many to choose from that there is no difficulty in selecting for what is becoming. The lighter colors are for the moment the more favorable and the pale gray, pale mauve and all the shades of tan and an odd shade of white are in great demand; the lighter shades are too bad delicate for anything but country or afternoon wear; in the city they would soon be used and be very ugly in consequence. An odd shade of green, an odd shade of blue and an odd shade of pink in the coral order are all immensely popular and certainly very effective. They are trimmed with braid and silk bands. Sometimes silk bands are outlined with fancy braid, but for the moment the demand is either for the bias bands of silk or velvet or else the lines of braid, yet it is uncertain how much braid can be used on a costume of this sort. As a rule, the skirts are short, but while they are in clear the ground they are not the ordinary. H. MARABOUT AN are sometimes seen at the theater and, just at this season and in the autumn, are effective with muffs to correspond if worn with a dark cloth or silk dress. Brown, Feathery maribout is so delightfully soft for the better, and is such an excellent weight for the better. It remains in fashion year after year. A severe tailor gown almost always requires some relief and a full ruche of net, or chiffon gives just the necessary touch. This style of boa should be carefully selected with an eye to the becoming, for, while one will look exceedingly well in a short, very full ruche, another finds a longer, thinner model more becoming. Long ribbon ends looped up here and there in tiny bowknots and rosettes finish the co-boo off attractively and give it the necessary length. In most colors net ruching can be bought by the yard, and it is generally less expensive to buy it this way and make the ribbon streamers at home than to purchase the finished ruche. A maline collar for the neck is scarcely worth the purchasing unless made from the so-called waterproof tulle, which really stands an extraordinary amount of wear. Silk net. Either plain or figured, makes always a good-looking ruche, and this is the favorite material for the ruche. Chiffon is rather too heavy to be pretty in for a light boa, but there are to be found at a number of chiffon rucheg that are decidedly smart. For mourning black chiffon, it is more stylish than net and in black looks less hot than when made in the colors. Chiffon cloth is a better investment than chiffon or mousseline de soie, both of which give most unsatisfactory wear. In making up a ruche from the plain net, it is possible to get far more attractive results than are ever seen in the shops, as by tying on little rosettes and bowknots, which cost hardly anything, a really excellent way of walking skirt that some women ask for for the street. The pleated or the full skirts are the favorite models, and it is astonishing how any different arrangements of pleats can be. A favorite trimming is the bands of silk around the front of the skirt, bands of braid put on in the same way. Here this is not becoming, the braid put in horizontal lines is also used, for under no. In the circumstances, the effect of the lines to be done away with. The silk coats that are to be worn with gowns are entirely different from anything that has been fashionable for a very long time. They are indescribably large, and would seem to be chosen with reference to the individual wearer, rather than to the great majority. They are part, but extend below the waist line and have nothing of the bolero or Eton model out then. A look of some old-time fashion is noticeable in some of these coats; the outline the figure and seem at the first glance to be made in rather too scant allowance of material. On the other hand, once again is to be seen a style that is so fashionable some three or four years ago, that had a fitted yoke across the shoulders and the body pleated—a style that is especially fashionable made of chiffon. Chiffon. Chiffon. Those who love roses will undoubtedly find spice in their leaves this June that may preserve them for the filling of cheeks next winter. No manufactured wader is half so sweet as dried roses. Moreover, they can be used alone in a sachet and without recourse to cotton and wool for their holding, as is necessary with the use of powders. The placing of many sachets among rings worn gives to the personality an elusive, sweet scent which is as well delightful and refreshing. At the same time, it now regarded as bad form to wear little cheeks tacked inside of bodices. It may, however, be remembered that this was somewhat a few years ago. Japanese Gestures. The Japanese spend much time in studying the graceful use of their hands. Some. In the hands, they practice one gesture for hours before a highly polished piece of lacquer, selecting each motion as a mirror. To use hands awkwardly in Japan is regarded a very great offense. It would seem, even, that American women might add to their attractions by a more animated and intelligent use of their hands—not in the manner of affectation, but as a variation in the monotony of speech, and as an element of charm. For the physical care alone of their hands and nails, American women are the most renowned. The shaped ones, trimmed with narrow braid and pipings of satin or narrow black velvet ribbon put on around the fronts or in lines on the back. In the description, these jackets do not sound as though they would be becoming; in reality, though, they are becoming and to almost every figure, for worn by the stout woman they seem to rather hide the figure, whereas worn by a slender woman they can be shaped in around the sleeves and so indicate, and indeed define, any slenderestness of outline. It is noticeable that almost all of these jackets are collarless. Intending to show the collar of the waist worn underneath or to be worn with a full ruche. This is always becoming, and especially now when it is fashionable again to wear the soft lace collars and ties, for lace against the throat and around the neck is always softer and more becoming than when the collar comes close to the large and is made usually of some rather hard material. For, no matter of what color the silk may be, the silk is a hard material in itself, and really requires the softening of net. Lace or chiffon to be becoming. Black veiling is a material that may be variously different. The old-fashioned grenadine or basege, as it was called in olden times, and very hard and hard. But there are many different veilings, some soft in finish and some with a faint design through them; others have a satin finish, and those are charmingly made up with soft finished taffetas or with satin. The skirt is trimmed more or less elaborately with the silk or satin and the jacket made entirely of it. To keep up the design in so far that the coat will not look like a separate garment, there should be some of the veiling in the jacket itself in the sleeves. If so desired; but, after all, the jackets that have the sleeves so made that they seem to be simply caps over the shoulders that extend to the elbows, and are short, with veiling beneath, are by far the smartest and most effective. These are finished with the narrow pleating of taffeta or the queer little ruchings, or even broad ruchings, and it should be observed that the ruchings are far softer than the braid. Often these Jackets look almost like ribbons with sleeves, for they have so many folds and are crossed in just the same way at the front and back and are then finished with A queer square, tab-like tails that are trimmed with ruching also. The fancy blocks and buttons find place again on even these short jackets, while the most elaborate of ornaments and frogs and talis and cords are used as a finish; and famous Curry Recip FEW of the people who like and appreciate the many dishes in which Indian curry powder enters as an ingredient ever knew the flavor of really good curry, and this without the slightest reflection upon the skill of the cook. Most, if not all, of the prepared curry powder on the market is poor stuff. I strongly recommend the most delicate dishes for this appetizing dish to have her own powder prepared. Any good druggist will put it up for you from the recipe given below, a recipe brought from India over fifty years ago by an epicure who had resided in the east long enough to attain a discriminating taste in regard to this its most famous dish. The quantity here given below is large, and unless the dish is to be cut in half, put the powder in a large-mouthed bottle and cork tightly. It will keep without losing its strength for many months. Curry Powder? Half a pound of pale turmeric, 4 oz. cummin seed, 8 oz. coriander seed, 4 oz. powdered ginger, 1 oz. caraway seed, 1 oz. caratam, 1 oz. black pepper, 1 oz. cayenne, all finely powdered and well mixed. The first recipe that gives is for chicken curry. It is taken from an old-fashioned cook book, written in the pale, faded hand of an earlier generation, a cook book in a magazine. Also, a recipe for syllabub, and a remedy for chicken cholera or lockjaw lies in the cheek with directions for preparing a most delicious gumbo. I have never tried the spavin cure or the lockjaw remedy, but I can answer for the gumbos, the syllabub, and make effective trimming. Black and white veilings are trimmed with black and have black jackets in these are seen again the black and white checks, but more often this year are the stripes. The same idea is carried out in silk with the check or striped skirt and the plain jackets, plain colors that are never plain in design, for a plain black silk jacket is at the present moment something quite unknown to fashion. The black and white striped all over the fabric are going to be immensely smart this year, and the clever dressmakers have learned how to arrange the lints so as to make a stout figure look slender, while the black coat is immensely becoming, and as there is only one fashion to be followed, this same jacket can be made suitable for any style of figure. Altogether it would seem as though a silk jacket would be very necessary to the appearance of almost every woman this year, and although it cannot be said with any. By virtue of the trust that the silk is made with warmth, it is lined with satin and is quite warm enough for the sort of wrap that such a jacket is intended for. Thin veiling or silk gowns are not appropriate or comfortable in cool weather, but they are used in warm weather and are intended for that only, and consequently it would be foolish to have the wraps made on plan that would necessitate their being too warm for spring and summer wear. The colored pongees that were fashionable last year will be fashionable again this, but a colored pongee coat worn with a skirt of different material is never as smart as a taffeta coat. Pongee coats seem likely to be made with a skirt to match unless it is to be worn as a wrap, until on it is worn in the long pongee coats in colors are extremely smart and most effective, but for the style of dress that has been described taffeta is a much better material to choose. One of the noticeable details of this rather smart long costume is a touch of velvet that is introduced into everything, either the outline of black velvet on black satin, or silk bands of some bright colored velvet in collar or girdle, or in a bow somewhere on the gown is this little touch of velvet, and it gives a smart and unusual touch for the moment of contrast that in effective and almost without exception becoming. For Home Cooks. Bums and the curries of the dear lady, who in her small circle was famous for her, including in her young men, women themselves on their ability to prepare dainty duties. Chicken Curry? Disjoint a tender hen as for fried chicken, put in a fry pan a generous kitchen spoonful of butter, a thin slice of breakfast bacon and a large onion, sliced. Fry until both chicken and onion are a delicate brown. Turn into a saucepan and add sufficient water to cover the chicken well. Simmer slowly?adding water if necessary?until the chicken is almost tender enough to leave the bones. Some nine ounces of lemon. When the chicken is done add a cupful of rich cream and a leaping tablespoonful of curry powder which has been wet with the cream and rubbed free from lumps. Be sure the chicken is boiling when the curry is put in and allow it to cook for ten minutes. Salt to taste and thicken with flour to the consistency of a good gravy. Serve with well-boiled, dry rice. Curry Oysters? Let one quart of oysters come to a boil, strain out the oysters and keep the liquor warm. Fry two teaspoonfuls of flour and one ounce of butter until the onion is golden brown, rub two dessertspoonfuls of curry powder, stir well and turn in the oysters, which should only be allowed to cook one minute. Add the oyster liquor and let boil up once. Quickly skim out the oysters into a warm dish and thicken your sauce with a little cornstarch. Pour the hot mixture over the yolks of two well-beaten eggs to which you have been accustomed. have been added two tablespoonfuls of rich cream. Return to the fire until instant, not too long, or it will curdle salt to taste and squeeze in four or five drops of lemon juice. Pour over the oysters, serve at once with boiled rice. 