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M Hwjk'jyr . 4 ' sßffiaag.lrf jfe .-J ... 5 ’>, w W»x $&■«i*’’Wsi 7«j x ~" W f, Ji ' : *<•?•„<' ■ ,-«r»j»R fS4. . '■ i «ZZZaaj*O »■ jO ; ; : ...-W'te>!i>’ / •■ ■■■'.' '?*. ■’ wßr 7 r SafflWcSryir .z,gS«Mk < ’^SSSr^^ ! < < WqS&&_‘.'' ■ xi Wisc 1 < .. THESE ladies have been dining at one of the open-air restaurants in Paris, and are just waiting for their mote; car. The lady on the stairs has on tunic and long train embroidered in jet wheat-ears and diamonds, at intervals all over it. The skirt is a black soft satin, the corsage is in diamonds shaded, from very dark gray to brilliant white, over a flesh-colored lining. She has a silver tissue hat lined inside with bright scarlet and oara dise plumes, fastened to the crown of the hat with a diamond ornament. The enchanting little girl in the centre, is in a rose-colored taffeta, white striped, with an embroidered bunch of sane blue feathers, here and there. It is trimmed at the foot with little ruches of silver lave and saxe blue, and the ornament on the side are of silver and blue, as is also the waistband. The corsage is of flimsy lace, tied round with a bough of silver tissue. Some brilliant colored flowers with green leaves, are tucked into the band. Her little hat is of a very pale shade of saxe blue. Ruches of lace around it and a bunch of flowers on the side, enhance its beauty. The third lady, has on a purple chiffon gown and made of every shade of purple that has ever been heard of. Red purple, blue purnies, and embroidered with tubes, of blue and purple. The sash is of sapphire blue. The corsage is of palest pink embroidered with amethysts and diamonds. The curious ornaments in the front are made of diamonds, and forquise, embroidered in pale green satin. Over her shoulder she has an Oriental scarf of fawny orange embroidered in all the colors of the rainbow, but in faded tones. The scarf is trimmed with skunk. On her head she has an orange turban, and as the lady is very dark it suits her admirably. At the side there is an orange paradise plume, the natural colors of the bird. TADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous “Lucile of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest. and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York City. By LADY DUFF GORDON (“Lucile.”) THE extremes of style to which the fashionable woman is prepared to go nowadays—and nights—in the matter of every item of her attire in general, and her hats and head dresses in particular, perhaps, would have Filed us with amazement, or amusement, if we could have seen them, even faintly foreshadowed, in a magic and modish crystal, say, even eighteen months ago. But now nothing seems to surprise anyone, and it must be something very wonderful, indeed, that can create and concentrate public attention and interest. But under this heading there must certainly come the latest and quaintest evening headdress, which owes its inspiration to the famous milliner, Monsieur Lewis, whose hats most worthily crown any number of New York stage dresses at both the Adelphi and Daly's in George Edwards's latest productions and successes. And it was at this latter theatre that the new headdress first saw the footlights and made such a favorable impression on the feminine members of the audience (it had its full share of masculine admiration, too. I can assure you) that it now has any number of society as well as stage wearers. So you shall have a chance of edging of its charms and its personal possibilities. Imagine, then. An absolutely close-fitting cap of Irish crochet or guimpe lace, beneath whose curves in front there stray a few softening strands of lightly waved hair, though all the rest are jealously hidden from right, the cap fitting tight over the ears and into the nape of the neck. So far it is just suggestive of a Puritanical or babyish simplicity, but then its whole aspect is changed by the piquant contrast of Oriental splendor in the chains of pearls, whose softly shimmering strands hang in long loops from a central and shivering circlet of diamonds which further form a beautiful base for an aigrette of spun glass. For a pretty face this is a most bewitching frame, but, oh! I beg of you, to be well assured of such prettiness before you dare to adopt this particular novelty and let it be the right type of prettiness, too— that is, of the rather babyish and ingenue variety, as the stately, boldly featured beauty will be infinitely better suited by swathed turban draperies of mildly hued satin or shimmering tissue which may, however, be trimmed in the same way. It is lovely little head, the model to which I would like you all to pay the flattery of an imitation which will vastly improve your own appearance—and the "set" of all your hats, too. Only, of course, if you have large instead of small features, and a very round, rather than an oval face, you must exercise a certain amount of discretion in so slightly loosening the hair at the sides to draw attention from—rather than to—the contour of the cheeks. Hair arrangement is in fact, and above all other things, a matter in which individualism is the secret of success, and therefore, no hard and fast rule can, or at any rate, should be laid down for universal guidance and following. Of course there is another point about the present and most popular style of hair dressing where the side or center parting is carried far down the back of the head and the rest of the hair is drawn smoothly downward into a little roll or plait. It shows up all to plainly, and sometimes even painfully, any defects neither the coloring or quality of the hair. So unless you are sure that both can bear the closest criticism, arrange a broad bandage of soft satin or crepe de chine (cut on the cross and just narrowly seam stitch) across the front of your head to cover the head, the crown and the crown are under dining at the slight fullness of the restaurant. In the midst of hair at She has covered the sides, reaping her taffeta-pearing event dress with a very usually behind gorgeous mantle, one ear in the off black embroidery of a jaunty dered with dark little bow, if you love blue. It is lined with scarlet. The lining is adorned with a band of gold, which is adorned with a band of gold. For the hair, my friends, I love this particular finish for the hair and always wear such a band in the particular and soft shade of blue which is perhaps my best beloved color. However, you will have had proof — in the photograph, which appeared in this column from time to time, that I practice what I preach in this matter, so I need not insist any further upon it. The injustice of long waiting: By BEATRICE FAIRFAX. Unter the better met, but they looked no sooner looked, but they loved; no sooner loved, but they sighed; no sooner sighed, but they asked one another the reason. And having asked one another the reason, it was learned that he wanted her, and she wanted him. Hence they became engaged with no more prospect of marriage than if they had been born yesterday. "I can't afford to marry now," he says. "We will wait till you can," says she hopefully. Then begins a period of waiting that Do You Know— Captain Williams, U. S. N., who has charge of the torpedo station at Newport, has intimated to the navy department that the wireless apparatus is being put to purposes never intended. Instead of being used for official messages, the apparatus is constantly in requisition by the young ladies in Boston to send endearing messages to the officers afloat. The atmosphere of the bay, according to the captain, is charged with messages of love, and the result is that there is an indescribable confusion. An official message is interrupted with the amatory greetings of “Sweetheart Maggie" to “Darling Jack." Hand-painted cards, with emblems of the guests' status, were used to mark the places at a banquet at the Metropolitan club, New York. For the bishops the cards were ornamented with a tiny miter, for the naval officers with small ships and for the lawyers with the scales of justice. The family of a fisherman who lived in the most abject poverty at Beni- Carlo, Spain, have just become millionaires by the death of a relative who migrated to South America, where he made a huge fortune. Many old houses in Holland have a special door is never opened, save on two occasions—when there is a marriage or a death in the family. The bride and bridegroom enter by this door and it is then nailed or barred up until a death occurs, when it is opened, and the body is removed by this exit. China's republican dollar will, it is understood, bear two lions and the Chinese characters for “one dollar” on one side, and on the reverse the characters “Current Money, Chinese Republic,” with a wreath of flowers. The minting will begin at once. Bathing parties with luncheon served in the water are the latest novelty at the fashionable American summer resorts. The New Dresses and Coats That Forecast Fall Fashions The newest Fall furbelows is the Pannier. You can’t get away from it. You don't wish to get away from it, once you've come within its fascinating hold. The Pannier is certainly a marked change from the straight lines of the past year’s fashions, and yet there is retained all of that attenuative grace so conducive to slender effects. The Pannier Dresses have made a big impression on lovers of quaint fancies and old-time artistic grace. We are showing them at ALLEN’S in soft charmeuse, in shades of taupe, blue and black. $19.75, $25, $35, $40 and $50 The Earliest Fall Coat The fancy for novelty fabrics is shown in the first Fall Coats—these having just reached us. Wool ratine is the new fabric represented, being an exaggerated weave of the cotton ratine used so much in summer gowns. These new Coats for street or auto wear are cut on straight box-like lines, and are lined throughout with satin of soft blend, or contrasting color. They are the fashion for fall and, of course, extremely smart. $25.00 J. P. Allen & Co. 51 and 53 White Hall Street is happy and hopeful in the beginning; more discouraging and irksome if prolonged, and a great injustice to the girl when the years pass and the man is still not ready. His income is small. In an endeavor to treat her as well as other lovers, treat their sweethearts, he spends on flowers and chocolates money that should be laid aside for chairs and stewspans. One would not have his gifts different. A lover who called on his girl bearing a meat platter in his hand would be laughed out of the band of Romance. That would be fatal to his chances. Tradition Demands Bonbons. This is unfortunate, but it is true. They are saving money to buy such prosaic things as meat platters, but tradition demands that he spend that money on bonbons and bouquets on the way. For this reason, the ambition for which both are struggling is pushed farther and farther ahead, and he grows impatient with the course of self-denial he has had to map out. And she sees other girls marry who have not been engaged as long as she, and feels cheated. Things reach the stage where he would break the engagement were it not for the fear his friends may think she has grown tired of him. And she would break it, but fears her friends would say he has grown tired of her. So they hold on, and sometimes the engagement that has lasted as long as five years ends in a marriage, and sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it is a tragedy in either case. For there are unpleasant comments when a couple who have been inseparable lovers for five or six years no longer appear together. In that time they have given each other confidences which they would give much to recall. And sometimes it is a tragedy if they marry, because the sweetness of companionship. In the midst of the turmoil, the ship has all been drained off in a drearily long engagement. It happens occasionally that the man and woman who are waiting are wise beyond their years, and their prolonged engagement knows no fretting, no complaining, no diminution of faith, no cooling of love. Such a engagement is ideal, and the marriage is the same. But there are not many so happily conducted, nor with such happy results. The Fetters of Engagement. A long engagement binds with fetters that are silken at first, but that scratch and tear and bruise and wound in the end. It is something to be avoided unless the lover and his sweetheart have a wisdom beyond their years. It is not just to the girl. The girl who has been engaged to a man two or three years finds herself in a very neglected and unhappy position when that engagement is broken. He has no trouble getting another girl. That is a difficulty no man ever has. But she is less fortunate in getting another lover. She has spent the best part of her youth in waiting for him. Time is so much kinder to a man that the years which took away from her attractiveness added to his. So I say that an engagement longer than a year is not fair to a girl. Unless a man is in position to marry within that time he should be less hasty about winning a girl's love and demanding her promise. Up-to-Date Jokes He was an idle Irish boy, but he had the Celtic wit. He had shipped on board a man-o’-war, where he annoyed the boatswain by his laziness. Seeing him on the maintop one morning, gazing idly out to sea, the boatswain called out to him: “Come down out of that, ye rascal! Come down out of that, and I'll give you a dozen whacks with me rope." “Faith, sorr," replied the boy, “Oh, wouldn't come if you offered me two dozen!" Mrs. Fondma—There! Isn’t baby the image of his father? Oldchum—Absolutely! Same lack of expression, same red nose, no teeth to speak of—and, by George, prematurely bald, too! Host's Youngest—Don't your shoes feel very uncomfortable when you walk. Mrs. Nuryche? Mrs. Nuryche—Dear me, what an extraordinary question! Why do you ask child? Youngster—Oh, only 'cos pa said the other day since you'd come into your money you’d got far too big for your boots. "Need any more talent for your moving picture dramas?" “We might use you. Had any experience at acting without audiences?" “Acting without audiences is what brought me here.” "I wonder if all men are fools,” snapped Mrs. Enpeck, during a little domestic tiff the other morning. “No, indeed, my dear,” replied her husband. "I know a number of men." Who are bachelors." McAndrews (the chemist, at 2 a.m.) — "Two pennants of bicarbonate of soda for the wife's indigestion at this time of night when a glass of hot water does just as well—” Sandy (hastily)—“Weel, weel, weel! Thanks for the advice. I'll not bother you, after all. Good night!” 