text: M: -Ij il ]. ilili jj IK ■ s Bij A VERY CRITICAL MOMENT. ' k I ' *T% J f -4.-T 1 <r A CHANCE FOR KITTY TO CATCH -V MOUSE AND FOR MADEMOISELLE TO DISPLAY A VERY PRETTY SET OP' RUFFLES. FANCY PETTICOATS OF SiLK_AS!) CLOTH They Come of All Materials from the Finest of Silk to Poplin. Cashmere and Sateen. CLOTH SKIRTS SILK-LINED. Three Rutiles Protect the Bottom of the Finest Skirts and a Whale bone makes Them Big. AUTOMOBILE THE NEW RED COLOR. N'E\V YORK, Feb. 10.—You can go out with your pocket full of money and come back without a cent! In your hand, done TO BE WORN ON A SLOPPY DAY DURING ? FEBRUARY THAW. SKIRTS OF SILK. POPLIN. SATEEN AND CASHMERE ARE TRIMMED WITH FRILLS OF MU AND RUFFLES OF LACE. INSTEAD OF TOUCHING THE STREET THEY ARE SHORTENED TO WALKING LENGTH up in a parcel scarcely larger than a book, you can carry your purchase. It will be a light parcel, too, and it will contain one silk petticoat! Have you seen the silk skirts that are now in the shops? It is safe to ask this question because anew assortment has lately arrived and unless you have been out on a petticoat expedition you have not seen the beautiful new garments that are now being exhibited" for the pride and vanity of womankind. What would our foremothers have said to the silken petticoats of to-day? What would good grandmother Priscilla Alden have remarked could she have beheld the ruffled, belaced absurdities of this year? Yet how beautiful they are! Many of them are trimmed with violets and, above violets, there is a tiny ruffle ending in a ribbon bow here and there. The newest silk petticoats have three ruffles. There is the big, handsome out side ruffle, and then comes the ruffle ■which holds it out and keeps it stiff, in side is the third ruffle, which is a strong, durable one to keep the others from touching the street. These silk petticoats cost all the way from $4 ’ to SIOO. and you can even get a wider range of price, for some of the shops show them at a lower figure, and there is a handsome Fifth avenue house which exhibits them at $l5O. i Women who do not want to be wildly extravagant are choosing the poplin skirt In pale shades of blue and gray. They trim the skirt with silk ruffles, overlaid with lace, with a cloth ruffle underneath all. And thus they get the effect with out the expense. Skins are made of cashmere and of sateen, but in every case there is the elaborate trimming around the foot. You cannot trim a skirt too richly. Over the elaborate skirt is Worn the plain dress which must of course be held up to show the petticoat. Summer is supposed to be the time of the fancy skirt but It flourishes best In winte •, for then the sidewalks are wet and a woman has every excuse for lift ing her dress off the street. Instead of me'-ing her petticoat very long she short ens it to the ankle and allows her trim boot-j to be seen. It is a noticeable fact that the most elabor .te petticoats are w'orn with the plainest gowns, as though a woman tried to atone for the severe simplicity of her tailor built dress by her elegant, fancy petticoat. Above the ruffles there are tucks, and some of the skirts show tiny bunches of violets and small artificial roses set In the lace ruffles. The lace is looped with the violets, which are tied with very small bows of baby ribbon. Petti coats of this kind are meant only to be worn in the house, for they would un questionably be In poor taste in the street. Avery novel idea Is that of lining the gown with silk to match the petti coat. This is extremely dainty and a style which will become more popular. Ladles’ tailors predict that the spring will show petticoats to match the dress lining and a hat to match both. What a revolution we have had in petticoats! What a difference between the starched white skirts of our fore mothers and the luxurious swish-swish of our silken petticoats of to-day! And what a revolution it is when my lady raises her gown at a muddy crossing and ruffles of turquoise, scarlet, old pink or a brilliant plaid are seen! This winter the dark skirts are lined with pale silks, black skirts often showing a lining of pale green, turquoise or pale pink, and so the silk netticoat often matches the lining, but this, of course, necessitates a petticoat for each gown, not always of the same silk as satin brocade or even poplin is used. Quite separate is the petticoat worn under the house gown. The daintiest af fair made of white Dresden silk, pow dered with bunches of delicate pink roses was worn in the house. The skirt ended with tinv ruchings of pink chiffon, and below this was a short circular ruffle of the silk having a sun pleating of pink taffeta edged with chiffon ruching. An elegant petticoat was of turquoise blue brocade, with satin stripes. The bottom of the skirt was out in squares edged with fine ruchings of blue mousse line de soie. Tlmse little squares were held out by a ruffle of lace over a sun pleating of blue taffeta. Automobile re<i was tbe eolor or an other petticoat. The body of the skirt was of poplin, embroidered with snk polka dots of the same color, the puffs and dust ruffle were of red taffeta and a flounce of black Chantilly lane was caught hv small bows of automobile red velvet ribbon bows. With the severest tailor-made gown of cheviot was worn the lovliest coral pink taffeta petticoat, with no trimming except the bias puffing and the pinked and sun-pleated ruffles of the same silk. Word comes from the South that the women are forming a league against the silk petticoat. Whether it is the “washer-women” who are protesting against the loss of washing the many white skirts that the silken one has routed, or whether the expense of the thing is considered is not known. Cer tainly the modish ones are so elaborately trimmed that buying one or two comes to auite a pretty penny. But if you make one at home be sure to get a silk design that has no "up and down’ for then yon can cut two gores out of one width as the French petticoats are cut. and this, of course, is a great saving of material. MARY GOODWIN HUBBELL, SOME ADVICE TO THE GIRL WHO DANCES. To the girl who must dance, and will dance, something must be said in the way of reducing the bad effects to a minimum. To prepare herself best to avoid the consequences of overstrain she must be careful to observe all those rules of health which in the meantime may conserve her vital energies. In other words she must protect herself by an increased vitality, and be moderate in her excesses. Regularity of living, abun dance of outdoor exerc : se. plenty of regular sleep and freedom from undue excitement may accomplish a great deal. The supper at night must al-ways be light, a chicken sandwich, a cup of coffee, a drink of lemonade, are all that are re quired to keep a healthy woman in trim for the time being. By midnight she should he asleep ready for the following morning to take up her regular duties of the day. The breakfast at the appoint ed time, and the other meals in order. If she then finds herself over-fatigued, it is simply an indication that her special vitality is overtaxed, and that less ex citement and more rest are required. These rules are simple enough, but because they are so simple the fashion able girl looks beyond them for that law to herself which she will never dis cover. ST. JOAN OF ARC. The Bishop of Orleans Hopes to Secure Her Canonization This Coming Spring. The people of Orleans, France, headed by the Bishop of Orleans .are endeavor ing to secure the canonization of the greatest woman who ever lived in their midst. Joan cf Arc, known in history as the Maid of Orleans, succeeded in bring ing about certain important historical events the result of which have lived unto this day. Oe romantic story of the Maid of Or iels is ever new. The tale of how T in the spring of the fifteenth century there was born in Lorraine a peasant girl who, while in her teens, heard voices calling her to fight for her country, has been often told. Joan of Arc went to her King at Chi non and told him that she was commis sioned to fight for him and to take him to Rheims to be crowned. The King, for there was something very magnetic about this maid, gave her a command, placed all his army at her disposal and so success fully followed her that she led the French to victory and had her King crowned at Rheims, as she promised. But her triumph was short, for when only 20 years old she was taken a prison er by the English and burned at the stake. The event took place on the 31st of May, 1431. Although almost 500 years have passed since then. Joan of Arc has not been for gotten. She has been remembered by her church particularly for her deep religious belief, which in the fifteenth century was limited to few women. In those times Joan of Arc stood alone as a believer in God; she did everything under divine in spiration, and for years was the only woman of prominence who was not ashamed to speak of her religion Rec ords cf her deep religious belief during all her warlike career have been faith fully kept, and it is upon these now that her claims to canonization are based. Canonization or the making of a saint THE ONLY AUTHENTIC PICTURE OF THE MAID OF ORLEANS. WHEN JOAN OF ARC IS CANONIZED THIS PICTURE OF HER WILL BE COPIED IN STAINED GLASS. THE MAID WILL WEAR LONG, FLOWING ROBES AND ABOVE HER HEAD WILL SET A HALO. is a long, difficult process. Owing to the slowness of the Vatican and the extreme deliberation and caution with which it moves, it takes twenty years from the time the candidate is first mentioned be fore canonization can be obtained. Monsignor Touchet presented Joan of Arc to the Vatican many years ago, and has been promoting the question of her j beatification ever since. He has recently returned from Rome and reports a very interesting interview with the authorities of the Vatican, in which he was assured that the case of Joan of Arc was being examined as rapidly as possible. A MILLION DOLLAR FIFTH AVENUE PALACE. |frif ,f Ll ’i iJjJf ill Jggwa Sira IN THIS STATELY MANSION MISS VIRGINIA FAIR WILL RECEIVE THE CONGRATULATIONS OF NEW YORK AND SAN FRANCISCO SOCIETY WITH W. K. VANDERBILT. JR. The process of canonization Is divided into three parts. The first must show that the subject has never told a lie. This must be vouched for by reputable wit nesses. Records of their testimony can be kept from generation to generation and, if well authenticated, are used for evidence. The second consists of proof that the subject was positively unselfish In her deeds; pure, kind and unworldly, without one taint upon her personal character. This must a’so be vouched for by a large number of witnesses who have known the person intimately during life. Records of this kind are difficult, as few of them are kept during the lifetime of a heroine. But in the case of Joan of Arc there are many written records of her unselfish deeds, so that this ordeal of canonization is easily passed through. The third is evidence of at least one miracle performed by the person, through faith in God. Joan of Arc is alleged to have performed many miracles, a great many' of which are as well authenticated as possible. The Bishop believes that the only ob stacle now in the way of beatification la the question of the reality or non-reality of the “voices” which it is said the Maid of Orleans heard from heaven. Should she pass through this step successfully, she may become a saint. A good woman or a heroic woman is a subject of admiration through all ages, and the Maid of Orleans is prominent in romantic history whether she becomes canonized or not. TRILBY’S SUBLESSOR. Trilby’s successor is an American girl. That Is hardly surprising, in view of the amount of admiration witch has b-en be stowed on the original by young grls this country. She belongs to a rich fam ily. is highly educated, and is very young as well as beautiful. That a young wom an< with these attributes should be posing for Paris art students provides the basis of a romance of no common interest. She has reached the highest rank of her profession. There Is no half-hearted ness about her. She gives up herseii wholly to the service of ait. She has ail the charms of Trilby, and some advantages over that famous model. She lacks only the good fortune of having a Du Maurier to set forth her qualities, but perhaps she will yet find a place in literature. The students have christened her “La Petite Brunette.” and ns such she is known to hundreds of them. “La Petite Brunette" is at present occupying a studio in the Hue Blanche, a street which helps to make the artists’ quarter of the nortrern side of the city. • The American girl has been a model but little more than a year. She belongs to a rich family of Cincinnati and is now only nineteen years old. She has had au expensive education, and her life, pre vious to her arrival in Paris, has been ex clusively spent in the lap of luxury. Rather more than a year ago her family became poor and she found profitable oc cupation in Paris where she was then traveling. “La Petite Brunette” is about five feet two inches high. Her figure is al most perfect, and her face quite equals it. One of her great attractions is her won derfully thick and long dark reddish hair. Take Trilby she makes herself agree able by cooking meals for the students, but unlike that grisette, she has a fine musical ear. as well as a fine voice. WHEN THEY WERE GIRLS. The Youth of Two Women Who Are Now the World’s Most Celebrated Beauties and Heart-Breakers. When Adelina Patti was a little girl, playing in the streets of Madrid and Paris, she little thought that she would some day become the greatest celebrity of her generation. And no one seeing her at the age of 16 would have predicted that she would ever be a great beauty. That was nearly forty years ago; and since that day Patti has gone through years filled so full of life that her story reads like a dream. Patti first began to show great beauty at the age of 20, when she developed a very sweet expression and a charming manner. That manner has never left her, nor the expression. When she married the Marquis of Caux she was a singer of great repute, and the understanding was that she was to remain upon the stage. The Marquis was rich, but the public would not al low Patti to retire. And so the trouble beg°n. Patti was so wondrously pretty f at all men, seeing her, fell violently in love with her, and those who sang with her were compelled to leave the opera company from heart ache. Tw r enty years ago no man could look at Patti without falling in love with her, and women openly worshipped at her shrine. NicolL.i was a poor tenor singer, but he loved Patti, and though she hated him because he pursued her, he kept on loving her. He paid the man ager of the opera compa y an immense sum to be allowed to sing Romeo to her Juliet, and in the love scene he kissed her twenty times though the libretto called for only two kisses. Patti’s husband became so jealous over Nicoiini that he quarreled with the beautiful singer and left her, and then the heart on the recoil fell at Nicolini’s feet and he gladly accepted Patti’s hand, her heart and her voice. When death parted them a year ago Patti determined never again to marry, but when the Baron Cecarstrom, the handsome young Sw r ede who has made his home in Paris the last five years, wooed her she could not say no. The Baron is said to be 27. His bride 55. Yet those who know Patti intimately say that he should be proud and happy to secure so young and charming a wife. ! Bernhardt thirty-seven years ago gave no sign of great beauty, for she was far zoo thin—far too pensive. Her face had not taken on those wonderful expressions which now play across it, - and her eyes were not the marvelous, rolling eyes of the Bernhardt of to- J day. Bernhardt had many lovers, “more 1 than a thousand” she wrote in her di- | ary, but she was fickle. Shp married , only once and was soon made a widow by the death of her tJreek husband, i Her vouth was spent breaking hearts so ruthlessly that she frequently says that it makes her sad now to think of it. Neither of these two remarkable wo men spent happy girlhoods for they were the children of poor parents and were compelled to work when other girls play. BERNHARDT, THIRTY-SEVEN YEARS AGO, n i\ \ WHEN SHE ij | Made her. AT HER DEBUT SHE WAS LANKY AND AWKWARD WITHOUT TRACE d* THE GREAT HAG NET ISM WHICH MARKS HER FACE TO-DAY. FIFTH AVENUE r ALaCE. Mrs. \Y. D. Sloanc Has Now (Tie Most Magnificent Residence In America. New York and California will touch hands across the continent when Mrs. W. D. Sloane entertains Miss Virginia Fair at the great ball which she will give in her honor. Miss Fair is engaged to be married to W. K. Vanderbilt, jr., and when she becomes Mrs. Vanderbilt she will be com pelled to call Mrs. Sloane aunt. A word about the residence which ! causing New York architects so much planning; and is keeping workmen busy night and day. PATTI AT SIXTEEN. I -H lim IN HEI IRLHOOD PATTI WAS N< BEAUTY. • Through the cavern created by the tearing down of the Fifty-second street side of the Vanderbilt house, the skele ton of a double stairway gigantic in proportion, magnificent in design, is visi ble. A peep beyond shows that back of this entrance, rooms of vast proportions will occupy the ground floor of the Join ed houses. Pillars of African marble, first set in the mansion by Vanderbilt pere, priceless painted panes of glass, heavy bronze doors, sculptured cornices, panels ot gold and silver, solid, rare woods, mother-of-pearl casing.-, mala chite vases, all are duplicated in rhe new rooms. The gallery contain paintings and statuary valued at J1.500.00d The million mark is said to be the limit imposed upon the architects In charge, exclusive of the work of the ar chitectural sculptors, who have in their hands the ornamental masonry work of the exterior.. 