text: ©RESsS ACCES^ORJES POINTS FOR THE HOME DRE^SMAKEEL 'w'- X V "' ^ ASXSX&^^ xs. zX^fe^ // <^;Wk LH 111, L w^fe\z\ JRMoi T^^xJL iWww// /1 X»> X> {JHr otw I ZXrWI wKKt. i\ ^M&VMfeafejiiMßpMM^ Lw.ilM i^-Xa \ wnW iMliJw ZSwX^lfX^ w f j \wMr^ \?z /k \k W ^yr WW m % ^OM )/ 'X ■ 7 < -■ 7: y-.:- <: ::r: : ^ WaWfISF // \WaMwMiWf\ -• t M xwßliilll^^ » f S; \W!^^^wHhU¥ V: asl "’Tv. s% ■^nM^^wSftHw ’//iW / / rt Wa V ■^®fwa®o Jw \wJ WU^P M\O !Il mJ ^Mi iSG. :/ & Z MA®? j\ W/WIW- W E or S ^W ' S cMgfM^zMw w sKbb^^x ■BOir ' ■nF wrßj^a^^ HKF wMbW^ wslM^y^ / M Wy I ; XOOIIWM f $% MO ; I sg || '<W®WW Mi / P 4 WMMf K a? i, . :’J-f>t^'jf"j7 s/It z^R'7 1-} W\k. >’■WtwulWlwßiX AWiVa WvX\\v / I \ > .Ir/ >7! Ss S ts! i/J ' ksJjV<\ \ M w(\®^WWlK aMflllh'-- i **Ai wX» \V >’/ i if< J’ ■■ M ‘ •- A\.\ \xvaMßu Wi^^iW.Zx MMWMr / m WX MWB- x J ~W*O M^s <1 V'^Bk V ' : W;Z) ■ ■ X - - X/>xz' xW ^■’ , ' ' X* * ’ ■ *• XXI •• Z'X X^X-'-.v-XX AvA -. ; ,s> . ... W^OlwSWl^^ x< ”'' • ’ -1...-. \\k . •'.vx'Vv' •/.'- z'< '• • • • ■ ; . .-, ,•' Xv •. -. '• . . '» \V.- -;’ • .'A-. ^•• r J -X *<. -.-. • ^Aj&^wsESSHslgssPl^mjwS^W]^ • Xe X*- ‘‘XX; • \ A.< X/ ’ X <XrZ;/Z^^ • • ' K ^Mz'XXZZZa^^^ .■X ’ ■"X^Z z x k . ’ ”X.,t XL ; :X'XXTXXZZ-X.xv A- \.X ? X z f X\ ’ ’ ■• • • ■- ■ " v****-—-~^ _— ‘E K^Wk W "X< WFw 7 w ACCESSORIES MAKE TEE STM DRESS The Little Touches That Blake for Style and Fashion in the Smart Girl’s Attiro and How Iq Jpjly Them. Nowadays, it is not so much the cos tume as a whole which counts in the smartness mid style of one's appearance. •*it is those little accessories which, un- important individually in themselves, are in the aggregate the touchstone by which the success or failure of one’s sartorial venture is to be measured. No matter how complete in itself may be the costume purchased at one of the exclusive—and incidentally exclusiveness in this connection usually spells expen sive-shops, there are always tile little last finishing touches which must be ap plied by the wearer herself, or by her maid, if she be lucky enough to be able to keep one. However, it is not for the millionaire girl who can have everything she wants and a staff of servants to carry out her orders and caprices, but rather for the THE WORCESTER-SPY, SUNDAY, MARCH 13, 1904. needle, who takes a pride and a delight in making her own dainty little blouses and summer frocks, she who prides her self upon the dainty completeness of her wardrobe no matter if its contents be somewhat small numerically, who de signs her simple ^owns and perhaps as girl who is clever with her fingers and her EMBODYING MANY POINTS OF THE NEWER MODES. All of the sheer fabrics are being shown in fancy weaves, and the noppe voile which fashions this smart costume has a plaided pattern developed in the weave. The shade is of the lighter champagne coloring, and the guipure medallions which serve for trimming are just a tint lighter. The blouse coat has the requisite long shoulder seam, with the sleeve set in very low on the arm. The blouse is full above the fitted girdle, which, fashioned upon a featherbone foundation, defines the svelte curves of the waist charmingly.' The skirt is cleverly fitted over the hips by means of stitched-down pleats, these being released above the knee to flare gracefully outward toward the hem. In this instance the fastening is effected beneath the front tablier, this being outlined with the medallions, posed at intervals. The hem is provided with a velvet binding, exactly matching the shade of the voile, and serves to protect the fine black patent leather shoe as well as the skirt hem. sists in their fashioning;.it is for such as she that this article is written. Of course, we take it for granted that the girl who desires to keep up to date and in step with the styles in the matter of her small belongings of dress, knows well how to use her needle, and that the stitches and terms hereafter described are as familiar to her as household words. Fine needlework is in itself such a fad nowadays that there is no excuse what ever for any girl of any age—at what nge do we really cease to be girls and become accustomed to being referred to as women? —being ignorant in this respect. New ideas, new improvements and new effects are being brought out daily; and it really requires an appreciable amount of time to keep up with all that is being done to increase the beauty and atttract iveness, not to mention the great point of ’ utility, in woman’s dress. However, to the consideration of the little accessories which count for so much in the sum total of womanly attractive-; ; ness. To begin with the very beginning, 1 with her first appearance in the morn ing. For hotel or boarding house the shirt waist is the usual morning garb, while for those who have the comfort of their own homes there are any number of dainty little garments of the semi-1 ' negligee order, known variously as mat inees, coffee jackets, et al. Just at the moment the fancy in these is to have as little semblance of fitting the figure as possible. Of course, the long shoul der seam obtains, and equally of course ribbons and laces are conspicuous as trimming. But whether coffee jacket or shirt waist be worn, its style, accord ing to prevailing standards, must be above reproach. The short waist must be drawn down taut and snug at the back, the front must blouse just suffi ciently into the gracefully curved belt, and the collar and cravat must fit and set just exactly right. Thd average man will doubtless say that all this is very easy of accomplishment; but the woman 1 who wears it will be glad to learn of ; the little attachment, the Rosalind, which lengthens the waist line in front, and gives just that slender curve which the French dressmakers so much affect. Then there is the matter of dress shields for the shirt waist, for there is no girl so slovenly as to wear one with out That there are dress shields and dress shields every one knows; and with the assistance of some clever, well-posted saleswoman each girl must select the kind best suited to her needs. For the shirt waists there are shields which may safely be sent to the laundry without re moval from the waist, and the feather weight shields to be sewn into the silk or woolen waists. There is quite a knack in the sewing in of the dress shields, and, strange to say, it is one which seems to have escaped even the average dress maker. In attaching the shield do not I have the points the same height back land front; when so, the deepest part of the shield will’ not come where needed. Rather should the front part of the I shield be about a half-inch higher than the back, and this will bring the deepest part immediately beneath the armpit. Always sew the two points of the shield first, then herring-bone it around, be ginning about an inch or a little more Ibelow the point and sew Joosely, so that ‘there is a little give to the shield. Attach it to the insMe of the sleeve in the same > manner. Another point of which the well dressed woman is careful is the binding lon her skirts. The up-to-date, well-dressed woman has a velveteen binding even on her silk petticoats, this as much for the protection of her fine black patent shoes as for the petticoat. That the dress skirt is always irreproachably bound is almost an article of faith with her, whether she uses the velveteen, the braid or the brush binding, each according to the class lof skirt. In the newer modes with their insist ence upon the distinct outlining- or de- I fining of the waist line, the boning of ;the waist lining assumes an importance which has been rather in abeyance for I some time past. The girl who sews will I welcome the featherbone which yields , with every move of the figure while hold ing the waistline snugly in place, and which can be applied in a fraction of the ;time it takes to put in whalebones. The correct way to featherbone a waist is to do it on the sewing machine, and the new oscillating stitch does it to perfec tion, sewing the bone in with absolute accuracy, and yet leaving sufficient give in the stitch to make the boning pliable. And the many varieties of this same featherbone prove a manifold assistance to the girl who prefers to make her own dainty stocks nnd belts and girdles. The little silk-covered collar bone is not much, larger than a toothpick in diameter, and yet it will hold the filmiest and fairiest fabric in shape without discomfort. With the tremendous vogue of the girdle—and it will increase rather than diminish as the days go by—the feather ’’bone frames will prove a boon to the girl with clever fingers. It is but the work of a few moments to drape a soft ribbon or velvet upon one of these, and since they lace invisibly in front, they can be adjusted to any style of dress. For the dressy frocks that obtain for luncheon and afternoon functions there is a very strong leaning to the I II modes that prevailed in the early part of the last century, although these are but seldom followed with any amount or degree of historical accuracy. The sloping shoulders, draped with a softly falling fichu, the long waist effect, the sloping hip and the skirt constructed with a very decided sweep toward the floor, all of these recall the days of the hoopskirt. While the outlines of the gowns are distinctly of the hoopskirt order, there is but little fear of its re turn. Fashion has decided— to effect the quaint outline this time with the aid of a curve-woven haircloth which, cunningly inserted in the drop skirt or petticoat, gives all of the requisite flare or swing to the dress skirt without betraying even a hint of its use. It is perhaps in the very sheer nnd transparent goods which are in such high favor for evening gowns that all of the dainty little accessories will make them selves doubly valuable. With a number of quaintly constructed boas—and these are Very easily fashioned, as a glance nt any of the examples in the shops will show—a stock of girdles of differing shapes and colorings, odd little conceits for the hair, several sets of the new rib bon bows, for which the girl with active brain nnd observant eye will readily find novel and original uses, any number 'of successful appearances can be arranged for at very little expense. As the French adage hath it. "Bien gantee, bien chaussee. bien habitee:’’ which being interpreted runs that the girl who is well gloved and well shod is well dressed, and the fashionable folk of to-day assuredly take this adage to heart, and purchase according. For shoes the correct morning shoe Is to day constructed with a comfortably broad sole, hand sewed preferably, with a marked spring to the arch and a com fortahly high heel. The correct heel is of the military order rather than the French, nnd is sufficiently broad to af ford a good and substantial basis for tho foot when walking# For the dressier shoe, however, the black patent and enamel leathers nre preferred, and although the shape fol lows somewhat that of the morning or walking shoe, the effect is daintier and lighter. For dancing there is nothing which will take the place of the French model, and the newest in these are constructed to show off a high arched instep to perfect advantage. The prevailing pattern is cut with higher counter than usual, and the instep is crossed by three, four or even six straps, these inset with ' tiny buckles of paste brilliants or little choux of mousseline dotted with rhinestones. In gloves, while there is a determined effort on the part of some arbiters of the mode to push the glove which will exactly match the tint of the costume, it is a fad which will not obtain here to any great extent. The hand of the American woman is quite a little larger than that of her French sister: hence any conspicuous coloring in gloves would look doubly so when on a generously moulded hand. For morning wear the leather gloves in dull shades of tnn and .brown, with some of the darker gun metal tints, are considered correct, these in the heavier fabrics. For afternoon siiede and dressed kid in the pearl, gray nnd inastique tints are preferred; while for formal evening wear the pearl grays and faint lavenders are entirely replac ing the use of the pure white glove.. 