Austria
t:.v. «.,- '•?*<■■¥>,.! ^^^■^1 Qr^ ^ \' \ry ^ -'^: t' -^^/■' r/^ <^ -\'\: '^r rJ^ -^- mh LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SANTA BARBARA FROM THE LIBRARY OF F. VON BOSCHAN ■^"W^ 1/^^ %.~>^, /. •y/'^^ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2008 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/austria01turn •^// /?///,/ ^y,-..L A/^/,/ AUSTRIA. VOLUME I. i U S T R I A. BY PETER EVAN TURNBULL, Esq., F.R.S., F.S.A I N T WO V O 1. U M E S. VOL I. NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. MUCCCXL. If' I LONDON : I'rinted by William Clowes and Sons, Stamfoid Street. J)3 PREFACE. In the various countries wherein I have happened to be a temporary resident, I have felt great interest in the acquisition of such knowledge as might be within my reach, with respect to the genius and the effects of their established institutions. Without the slightest idea of publication, I continued the same line of inquiry during my stay in the Austrian dominions. Circumstances of a peculiar nature fa- voured my pursuit ; and, on my last return to Eng- land, I found myself possessed of much information , tending to elucidate a variety of points hitherto, as it appeared to me, very imperfectly understood, and leading also to views, both as to the government and the people, materially different from those which I liad myself, in common probaldy with most of my countrymen, previously entertained. Hence I was led to conceive that I might not be performing an VI PREFACE. altOi;etliOi' superfluous or unwelcome office, in sub- mitting to the public some portion of the results whicli had followed my researches ; and conse- quently, as early as the autumn of last year, a work was announced on the subject, intended to conclude witii such notices of our travels as related to the southern provinces of the empire. On preparing the manuscript however for the press, I perceived that details collected only for private use exhibited various lacunae, little important perhaps in themselves, 1)ut which it would be ex- pedient to fill up, in order that the course of obser- vations, in which they occurred, might be satis- factorily and conveniently followed. For this purpose I Avas obliged to recur to the proper sources of information in the countries on which I was treating ; — and this has necessarily caused considerable delay. On further consideration, also, I have extended the personal narrative, so as to comprehend a larger portion of our travels in tlie Austrian States than had been originally proposed ; and this portion of the work, exhibiting men and things in their out- ward appearance as they may be viewed l)y the passing stranger, has been altered in point of ar- rangement, so as to precede, rather than to follow, PREFACE. VII the more important attempt to explain the causes and circumstances by which their real condition is produced or affected. Thus, in the order now adopted, the first vohnne contains the " Narrative of Travels," being remarks and reflections made in the course of our journey through the most interesting parts of Bohemia, the states of Austria and Styria, the Illyrian Pro- vinces, and the Peninsula of I stria ; — including, besides the more prominent objects of general inter- est, notices of the antiquities and present condition of Pohi ; of the commercial ports of Fiume and Trieste ; of the monastic establishments of Admont JMolk, and Mariazell ; of the mines of Idria ; and ol Carlsbad, Gastein, and other principal Baths ; — to- gether with some account of the exiled royal lamily of France, who were then residing in the vicinity of Prague. The second volume comprises the notices on the social and political condition of the empire, arranged with reference to its various most important elements, — religion, education, morality, jurisj)ru- dence, feudal and municipal institutions, civil and military administrations, and domestic and foreign policy. It has been my endeavour mainly to relieve the former volume of such observations as relate to Vlll PREFACE. statistical and political subjects, and to transfer them to those chapters in the latter to which they re- spectively belong. Should I, in this attempt, not have entirely escaped repetitions, 1 trust the difficulty attending the separation will be admitted as my excuse. The political and social state of Hungary has been incidentally mentioned in several chapters, as the subjects to which they respectively relate have ren- dered it expedient to do so ; and in the one on " In- ternal Policy" will be found a general outline of the existing constitution. Having studied it both in its theory and its practice, with an interest proportioned to its singularity, during a residence in the country for several months, at a period when the Diet was sitting, I regret that it has been impossible for me, in a work like the present, to render a full and just account of institutions so peculiar both in their structure and their bearings. If my health should allow me, I may possibly be tempted to submit here- after to the public a separate essay on that distinct subject. Of the sources from whence my statements and reflections are derived, some are in their nature open to all, while others are of a more private and PREFACE. IX peculiar character. In Austria, as in several other countries, I have found myself in relations of great intimacy with iuilividuals of various ranks — some in the more lowly walks of life, and some in the most elevated stations — whose friendship has been productive to me, not only of high enjoyment in my social hours, but of the most useful and varied in- formation. By a comparison of facts and sentiments thus obtained, 1 have endeavoured to arrive at truth ; but the private communications with which I have been favoured I have used with the greatest caution, and never without having satisfied myself that in so doing I had the sanction of those from whom I received them. The chapter on " Foreign Policy " contains some paragraphs which have already appeared in print ; having formed part of a short pamphlet, entitled " British Diplomacy and Turkish Independence," which I published anonymously in the early part of last year. The object of that pamphlet was to ex- hibit the general condition of the Ottoman Empire and the innovations introduced by the then reigning Sovereign — the genius and results of that singularly able policy where])y Russia carries into effect her plans of gradual aggrandisement — and the necessity X PREFACE. on the part of England, for her own vital interests, that she should adopt a total change of system, both in her local diplomacy at Constantinople and in her general policy amid the states of Europe. I may add that subsequent events are but too unhappily con- curring, to confirm the viev»'s and substantiate the statements vrliich I then advanced. XI CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER I. Leave Dresden — Saxon Switzerland — Bastey — Schandau — PrO- bischer Thor — Elbe — Enter Bohemia — Contrast of Appearance — Arbesau — Battle of Culm — Teplitz — Baths — Environs Mode of Life — King of Prussia — Von Humboldt . Page 1 CHAPTER n. Journey to Carlsbad — Carlsbad — Singular Illumination — Local Description — Springs — Geology — Life at Carlsbad — Grand Duke Michael — Departures — Second Season — Poles — Com- parative State of the Poles in Prussia, Austria, and Russia — Polish War — Exiles in Siberia — Prince Louis of Rohan — Cir- cumstances of the Death of the Duke de Bourbon . . p. 36 CHAPTER in. Bohemia — Climate, Soil, Geology — Travelling — Appearance and Condition of the People — Eger — Baths of Fraiizenbad — Ma- rienbad, Situation, Waters, Mud and Gas Baths, Society — Journey to Prague — Description of the City— Palaces, Churches, Libraries — Ancient noble Families — Population, Listitutions, Commerce, and improving Condition — Procession to supplicate Rain — Language of Bohemia — Remarks on the Austrian Policy towards Bohemia p. '77 CHAPTER IV. Visit to the exiled Royal Family of France — Duke de Bordeaux — Duchess d'Angouleme — Charles X. — Carlists and Henriquists — Education and prospects of the Duke de Bordeaux . p. 113 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. Leave Prague — Further observations on Bohemia — Enter Upper Austria — Linz — Salzburg — Appearance of the Country — De- scription of the City, and State of its Inhabitants — Journey to Gastein — Salt-works of Hallein — Falls of Golling — Pass of Lueg — Gastein — Grand Scenery — Vales of the Alps — Elevated plain of Naasfeld — Vale of Bockstein — Gold Mines and Works — Population and Condition, past and present — Geological ob- servations on the Valley of the Salzach . . . Page 129 CHAPTER VI. The Salzkammergut — Ischel— Population, its Number and Con- dition— Lake of Gmunden — Falls of the Traun — Sir H. Davy — Enter Upper Styria — Aussee and its Environs — Admont, its Monastery, Library, and Botanical Collections — Observations on the History and Character of the Benedictine Order ; their Rules, Observances, and Present Condition — Leave Admont — Vale of the Enns — Eisenerz — 'Vordenberg — Bruck — Journey to Mariazell — Imperial Iron-works — Observations on the Austrian Foundries — The great Employment of Manual Labour — The Effects to be expected from an Increase of Machinery — State of Roads and Communications p. 163 CHAPTER VH. Mariazell — Locality and Population — History of the Shrine — The Church and Treasures — Ecclesiastical Establishment — Number and Conduct of the Pilgrims — Arrival of one Com- pany— General Character of the Devotional Service — Leave Mariazell — Annaberg, Durnitz, Lilienfeld -Condition of the People of Upper Styria and Upper Austria — Farms, Products, Rural Industry — Peculiar Habits and Tendencies — General Character — Monastery of Molk — Its Situation, Establishment, and approaching Festivities — Ineffectual attempts to follow the course of the Danube — Great Market at St. Polten — Arrive at Vienna p. 189 CONTENTS. Xlll CHAPTER VIII. Vienna — Extent — Population — City and Suburbs — Climate — Resources — Character of the People — Society — Feudal Cere- monials— Hungarian and German Guard — Presence of the highest Authority at Fires — Habits of the Emperor — Public Library — Early Printed Works — Manuscripts — Tabulae Peu- tingerianaj —Imperial Museums, Cabinets, and Collections — Gallery of Ambras — Private Collections — Imperial and Private Galleries of Paintings — Imperial Treasure — Regalia of Charle- magne— Crowns of Bohemia, Hungary, &c. — Theseium and Group of Canova — Imperial Vault — The Emperor Nicholas at Vienna Page 212 CHAPTER IX. Journey from Vienna to Gratz — Baden — Wienerisch Neustadt — Military Academy, and Observations on Education — Cistertian Monastery — Cathedral, and Monument of Zrini and Frangi- pani — Neustadt Canal — Schottwein — German Posting — Briick — Feistritz — Mines — Arrival at Gratz .... p. 247 CHAPTER X. Gratz — Town — Population — Resources — Climate — Johanneum — The Archduke John— Residence at Gratz — Productions of Styria— Mines — German Industry — Departure from Gratz — Marburg — Laybach — Character of the People - Illyrian Pro- vinces P- 263 CHAPTER XI. Departure from Laybach— Idria—IiOcality— Quicksilver Mine- Method of working it — Extraction of the native iVIetal and of Cinnabar— Miners and other Workmen — Unhealthy Character of the Labour — Hours of Work— Pay, Superannuations, &c. — Adelsberg— Subterranean Passages and Rivers — Caverns of St. Catherine and of the Magdalena— Proteus Anguinus— Bear Hunt— Peasantry of Carniola — Journey to Trieste— Change of Climate and Scenery— Arrival at Trieste ... p. 283 XIV CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII. From Trieste to Fiume — Description of Fiume— Situation — Anchorage — Commerce — Difficulties to the Extension of its Trade — Environs — Buccari — Town, Harbour, and Commerce — Porto Re — Harbour — Marianna Steamer — Hospital at the Entrance of the Port — Contraband Trade carried on from Fiume Page 314 CHAPTER XIII. Istria — Departure from Fiume — Enter the Istrian Peninsula, crossing the Monte Maggiore — The Bora — Encounter with Douaniers — Pisino — Dignano — Pola — Government and Police of the Istrian Towns — Antiquities of Pola — Amphitheatre, Temples, and Porta Aurea — Depopulation — Climate — Port of Pola, and Forts erecting for its military defence — Austrian Sailors — Return to Pisino — Portole — Difficulty about Horses — Capo d'Istria — Town and Commerce — General Descrip- tion of Istria — Agriculture, Climate, Products, Habits and Condition of the People p 331 CHAPTER XIV. Trieste — Town — Port — Mole — Anchorage — Freedom of Trade — Lazarets — Quarantines in the Mediterranean — Conduct of Austria in regard to the Cholera — History and Description of Trieste — Population — Various Religious Congregations — Mi- litary Defences formed on the French Occupation of An- cona — Poles confined in the Castle — Remarks on the Re- public of Cracow — Steam Navigation from Trieste — Coal in Dalmatia — Internal Government and Police of Trieste — De- parture p. 361 APPENDIX. Some Account of the Saxon Mines, and of the Process of .Amal- gamation adopted at Freyberg p. 383 CONTENTS OF VOL. II. CHAPTER I. Principle op the Government. — Divisions of the Empire — Population, according to Numbers and Classes — Nature and Privileges of Nobility — Feudality — Its extent previous to 1713, and since — Urbarium — its establishment, provisions, and political effects Page 1 CHAPTER II. Laws of Property. — Their effect on the formation of Social Cha- racter— General Principles — Rules of Inheritance — Of Legi- timate, Legitimated, Adopted, and Illegitimate Children — Pflichttheil. or portion of necessary Succession — Power of Testamentary Bequest, and of Disinheritance — Harmony of the Rules of Inheritance with the Principle of the Government — Entails — Their different kinds and restrictions . . p. 23 CHAFlliR ill. Tenures of Land — Northern Provinces — Nature of Feudal Tenures and Services — Power and Burthens of the Lords — Protecting Policy of the Crown — Farms and Villages — General Observations — Southern Provinces — Abatement of Feudality — Tenants and Lessees— Charters and Government of Municipal Towns and Cities — Provision for the Poor, the Aged, and the Sick — Actual Condition of the People . . . . p. 38 xvi CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Religion. — History of the Ecclesiastical System — Different re- cognised Forms of Faith — Supremacy of the Crown over all equally, including the Roman Catholic — General Toleration — Reforms of Joseph II. — Suppression and Regulation of Monas- teries, and Visit of the Pope to Vienna — Number of Clergy of all Denominations — Roman Catholic Establishments — Supre- macy of the Civil Power — Jus Placeti — Episcopal Nominations — Scheme of Ecclesiastical Government — Diocesan Consistories and Functionaries — Parochial Benefices — Shrines of Pilgrim- age— Episcopal Seminaries — Duties of the Clergy — Eccle- siastical Revenues — Tithes — Monastic Orders — Regulations for their Government — Compulsion to active Duties — Subordina- tion to the Secular Powers — Laws and Conditions affecting them — Religious Fund — Non-Romish Subjects — Laws for sepa- rate Sects —System of Church Government for all — Parochial Ministers, Seniors, Superintendents, and Consistories — Hebrew Synagogues and Greek Bishops — Singular Imperial Edicts — tloncluding Remarks Page 73 CHAPTER V. Education. — Observations on the Education of Southern Europe, of France, and of non-Austrian Germany — Austrian System of Education — Its Objects, Principles, and absolute Uniformity mider every circumstance — Regular Gradation of Schools, and of scholastic Superintendence — Regulations regarding non- Romanists — Nature of the Instruction — Popular Schools; their System and Government — Gymnasial Schools and Universi- ties— Expenses of the Educational System — Distinct Institu- tions— Private Tutors and Private Academies — Ordinances of Francis II. — Number of Persons receiving Education — Induce- ments to Education — Nature and Effects of the " Poor Stu- dent" System in Germany — Its Disfavour in Austria — Contrast between the Austrian and other German Universities — Effects of Austrian Education on the intellectual and moral Charac- ter p. 116 CONTENTS. XVll CHAPTER VI. Criminal, Jurisprudence. — State of Criminal Law a general Evidence of social Character — Austrian Code — Its mild Genius —Crimes, their Classification and Punishment — Misdemeanors, ditto — Constitution and Gradation of Tribunals — Nature of Proceedings, Appeals, and Supervisions — Rules of Evidence, and Privilege of Relations — Strandrecht, or Martial Law — Power given to Heads of Families — Moral Discipline— Indul- gent Genius of the System, and its great Peculiarities— Quan- tum of Crime in different Provinces, and Remarks thereon — Concluding Observations on the whole subject . . Page 157 CHAPTER VH. Morals. — Liability to Error in estimating National Morality — Excellencies of the Austrian Moral Character— Whence pro- duced— Early Training— Absence of certain Excitements to Vice— Nature of the Civil Government— Z)e/ecis of the Aus- trian Moral Character— Tendency to personal Indulgences- Tables of Illegitimate Births in Cities and Provinces, with Re- marks— Effects of certain Impediments to Marriage, and of certain Provisions of Law — Institutions of Maternity and Or- phan Asylums : their Organisation and Effects — Observance of Parental and Filial Duties, with Remarks on the Laws of In- heritance— Observance of the Conjugal Duties, and Remarks on the Laws of Marriage — Facility of Divorce among the Pro- testants, and its Effects— Concluding Observations . . p. 192 CHAPTER VIII. Civil Government. — Preliminary Observations — Legislation — Provincial Assemblies; their Composition and Functions in the German and Italian States : also of the Hungarian Diet. Le- gislative Edicts and Rescripts of the Sovereign — Executive Go- vernment. Nature and System of the principal Departments at Vienna — Civil Administrations in the Provinces — Graduated Organization of the System — Moral Peculiarities — Union of Education, Affections, and Interests in support of the State, explained — Personal Character of the Princes and of the De- vol. I. b XVm CONTENTS. l)ositaries of Power — Number of Civil Servants and of Pen- sioners — German Bureaucracy — Preparation of Statistical Tables Page 215 CHAPTER IX. Public Poijce. — Its Organization — Expense, excellent Con- duct, Unobtrusiveness, and Efficiency — Rules as to Foreigners at the Frontier and in the Interior — Secret Police. — Miscon- ceptions generally entertained — Police of the Press. — Gene- ral Principles — Censure on Native and Foreign Literature, and its Efl'ects — Great indulgence as to Foreign Books and Journals — Difficulty experienced by Natives in obtaining permission to Travel p. 251 CHAPTER X. Army. — Various Character of its component Parts — Divisions of the Empire for Military Purposes — Rules for Levies in each, and Duration of Service— Numerical Strength— Military Code — Organization of a Regiment as to Officers, and Details of Regimental Service— Record of Conduct— Purchase of Com- missions—Duties of Captain— General Character of Officers- Privates — Structure of Courts-martial — Punishments — Pay and Allowances — Comparison of Infantry and Cavalry — Rules as to Marriage — Pensions — Hospitals and Asylums — Reserve of Equipments in Store — Despatch of Levies — Mili- tary Force in 1814.— Navy.— Its Character and Extent— Port of Pola p. 274 CHAPTER XI. Finances. — Public Debt and Currency — Origin and Character of the Debt — History of the Paper Currency — Finance Patent of 1811 — Financial Reform of 1816 — Bank of Vienna — Plan for Reduction of the floating Paper, and its success — Debt bear- ing Interest— Old and New Debt — Amount of both — Sinking Fund — Amount of actual liability of the Government — Existing Currency both Paper and Metallic — Circulation of the Bank, and its connexion with the Government . . . .p. 301 CONTEXTS. XIX CHAPTER XII. Finances continued — Actual Income and Expenditure — De- tails of both — Various Branches of Income — Direct Taxes — Land-tax — Its History — Cadaster — House-tax — Tax on Trades and Professions — Personal Tax — Tax on Inheritances, &c. — Mode of Collection — Indirect Taxes — Tax on Consumable Articles— Customs — Observations on Contraband — Other Items of indirect Taxation Page 323 CHAPTER XIII. Finances concluded — Monopolies — Gunpo\vder — Tobacco — Salt — Domains — Mines — Tables of Gold and Silver produced — Extraction of Gold at Bockstein, Mehadia, &c. — Quantity of Gold produced now and at former Periods — Expenses of Pro- duction, and' Accounts of the Mining Department — Table of all Metals produced in the Empire — Revenues of Hungary, and Observations thereon p. 345 CHAPTER XIV. Internal and Foreign Trade. — Natural Resources of Austria — Value of Exports and Imports, with Observations — Products and Trade of Hungary, &c. — Chief Articles of Export — Wool — Tobacco — Silk — Obstacles to Foreign Trade — Fluctu- ation of Duties, and Financial Errors — Defensive System adopted by Neighbouring States — Physical Difficulties of Internal Communication — Geographical Notices — Rivers — Projected Railroads — Uncommercial Character of the Hun- garians— Steam Navigation of the Danube . . p. 360 CHAPTER XV. Internal Policy. — Austria considered with reference to her Internal Condition — Progress of the Crown in establishing the Monarchical Principle — Its Policy in sustaining that Principle, and rendering it Popular— Opposite Conduct of Austria and France, in the reduction of Feudality — Points of Difficultij willi which the Government has to contend — Necessity of Vigilance in the Correction of Abuses while the Press is controlled — XX CONTENTS. Point of Weakness in the Body of the Empire — Diversities of Nationality — Bohemia, Moravia, and Gall'-^ia — Their Political Condition — Hungary: its Constitution aid Social State — The Lombardo -Venetian Kingdom — The Chart^cter of its Govern- ment— Its Condition and Prospects .... Page 384 CHAPTER XVI. Foreign Policy. — Austria considered with reference to her Foreign Relations — Her great desire for Peace — Austrian Policy towards Italy — Conflicts with France for Ascendancy in the smaller States — Military Occupation of Countries threatened with Popular Revolution — Austrian Policy towards Germany — Formation and present State of the Germanic Confederation — Difficulties experienced by the Congress of Vienna — Its Views for a different Organization of Germany — The Preservation of the Kingdom of Saxony by its sudden Dissolution — Rivalship of Prussia and Austria — Prussian Custom-House Confederation — Austrian Policy towards Russia and Turkey — History of the establishment of Russian Ascendancy in the Northern Provinces of Turkey, and at the Mouth of the Danube — Political Condition of Moldavia, Wal- lachia, Bulgaria, and Servia — Anxiety of Austria — Her endea- vours to oppose Russia by her Diplomacy at Constantinople and Athens — The . Conduct of England, and Apprehension of Austria as to the Maritime Powers — Reflections on the Dangers with which England is threatened by a further ad- vance of Russia towards the Mediterranean — And on the Policy by which those Dangers may be averted .... p. 407 NARRATIVE, 8fc. 8fc, CHAPTER I. Leave Dresden — Saxon Switzerland — Bastey — Schandau — PrO- bischer Thor — Elbe — Enter Bohemia — Contrast of Appearance — Arbesau — Battle of Culm — Teplitz — Baths — Environs — Mode of Life — King of Prussia — Von Humboldt. Accompanied by my brother *, I made, clurini^ the years 1834, 1835, and 1836, an extensive tour in various countries of Europe. We visited together the principal cities and universities of Germany ; passed one winter in Hungary ; and having quitted, for a time, the Austrian States, in order to make a journey through Greece and parts of Turkey, we returned to them again by the steam-navigation from the Black Sea up the Danube as far as Vukovar, in Slavonia, whence we traversed the most interesting portion of that little-known but very remarkable district termed the Austrian Military Frontier. Of the personal narrative connected with this tour, such extracts only are now submitted to the public as relate to the German provinces of the Austrian em- * The Rev. T. S. Tumbull, F.R.S., F.G.S., Fellow of Caius College, Cambridge. VOL. I. B 2 AUSTRIA. [CH. pire. As the more important part of this work will be devoted to the delineation of the government in its various branches, and its effects on the condition of the people within these provinces, it appears desirable first to state briefly the results of such local and per- sonal observations as may occur to the traveller in passing through them. After admiring at Berlin the splendid public monuments, the galleries and museums and institu- tions for the advancement of art and science, their excellent order, their entu*e publicity, and the genius of classic taste and feeling which appears to pervade that Athens of the north — we passed some time at Dresden, amid treasures of art far superior in intrin- sic excellence to those of the Prussian capital, but so secluded from general view as to be valueless to the native public ; and so defective in arrangement, so neglected in condition, as almost to excite pain instead of pleasure. It was from Saxony that, on this occasion, we passed into the Austrian States. In quitting Dresden for the Bohemian frontier, we de- viated from the direct road in order to explore that remarkable tract of country, which, extending to the south of that city for about seventy English miles along the banks of the Elbe, and terminating within the confines of Bohemia, has acquired the appellation of the *' Saxon Switzerland." The designation is by no means happy. It conveys an idea of grandeur and sublimity utterly at variance with the real cha- 1.1 SAXON SWITZERLAND. X racter of the scenery. The Saxon Switzerland charms rather by the minuteness than the maj^nitude of the objects it presents. Here are none of the older rocks ; no mountain-heights rising more than eighteen hundred feet above the level of the ocean, or fifteen hundred above that of the Elbe. It is an assemblage of scenic forms the most strange and fan- tastic, varying at every step, and of such compara- tively small dimensions as to be ever within the reach of easy contemplation. The stranger passing from Chamouni to Schandau might imagine he had quitted the region of the giants for that of the fairies ; and he might experience a peculiar species of enjoyment in surveying, as it were on a beautiful model, all those disruptions and contortions of mountain scenery, which the human eye may seek in vain to trace amid the stupendous masses of the Alps. The surface of the Saxon Switzerland is, with the exception of the basalt which caps the hill called the Greater Winterberg, and of a little syenite and granite which crop here and there, wholly of new green sandstone. Its stratification is everywhere horizontal ; and where its sides are exposed, as along the cliffs which bound the rivers and the valleys, the rock is seen to be so split perpendicularly into sepa- rate and detached piles, as to give it the appearance in form, though not in colour, of an assemblage of upright basaltic columns. As earthquakes have occurred, connected with the protrusion of the volcanic and granitic matter or otherwise, the structure of the b2 4 AUSTRIA. [CH. rock has caused its fractures to assume a character different from that which is observed amid the dis- turbances of the okler and harder formations, and which is very favourable to picturesque effect. Chasms, too narrow to receive the name of valleys, wind along for miles between walls of rock several hundred feet in height ; sometimes quite perpendi- cular ; sometimes very slightly inclined and thickly covered with wood. High thin perpendicular masses shoot up their heads from the depth below, quite detached from each other, yet so near as to admit of bridges and galleries being thrown across, which seem to hang almost self-supported in the dizzy height. The narrow chasms are divided from each other by intervening ridges more narrow than them- selves. Often does the traveller walk, as it were, on a pier of stone, or the high thin summit of a wall, probably not fifty, sometimes not twenty, feet in width; shrinking, on either side, from the glance into the deep perpendicular abyss ; until he reach at length some small bluff promontory at the end, which overhangs the confluence of the vales' below. The small town of Schandau is situated on the Elbe, nearly in the centre of this singular district, which may extend eight or nine miles above and below it. Intending to see the principal points of view which are noted for their beauty, and all of which may be seen in two or three days, we had the opportunity of viewing some portion of them in our way from Dresden to Schandau, where we fixed our I.] VALLEY OF OTTERWALDE. 5 temporary abode. It is at the romantic village of Lohmen, about ten English miles to the south of Dresden, that the " Switzerland " commences. After a short repose here, in the rose-garden of the little country inn, rendered more agreeable by the melo- dies of two female harpers seated within a bower, we proceeded about three miles farther, until at a par- ticular point we left the carriage, to proceed on foot, with a guide, by the valley of Otterwalde, to the " Bastey," while the carriage was to proceed by the ordinary road. The valley of Otterwalde is one of those remarkable chasms with which this countiy abounds. We descended into it by a long steep flight of steps rudely cut in the stone, and followed its course for probably a couple of miles. Often did we find it not more than forty feet in width, and bounded by sides of wall from one to three hundred feet high, generally almost perpendicular. The surface of these Avails of stone was rugged and broken, presenting, as I before observed, the appearance of fractured columns ; and it was curious to observe, in what might appear the fractures of these columns — and which were, in fact, interstices of the horizontal strata — trees of the fir tribe growing out, for some short distance, horizontally from the rock, and thence bending, at a right angle, to shoot their lofty stems perpendicularly upwards. The ground below was strewed with masses of stone which had fallen from the cliffs ; and sometimes in this deep glen might be seen a fragment of rock shaped almost like an in- 6 AUSTRIA. [CH. verted pyramid, which every breeze might seem to shake, and which yet the audacity of man, propping up the top-heavy projection with some rude masonry, had converted into a human dwelling. We had descended into the valley of Otterwalde by flights of steps cut in the rock ; we left it by a natural ascent, and still continued to climb until we reached the high elevation on which stands the "Bastey." Here is an inn, built on a singular and pleasing spot, from which the eye looks down upon the Elbe immediately below, from a perpendicular height of more than six hundred feet. All around, the fractured rock forms groups of points and narrow causeways, often con- nected together by wooden galleries and staircases and bridges ; and among these, one is pointed out as having been the stronghold of a noted band of robbers of the Elbe, accessible only to themselves by means of moveable ladders, and from which they were ultimately dislodged in the year 1443, by the starvation resulting from a rigorous blockade. Other points of interest we visited from Schandau : — Hoch- stein, with its narrow ledge of rock standing up five hundred feet above a vale of corn-fields — the Kuhstall, a natural arch on a projecting rock, high overlooking a fertile plain — the Lesser Winterberg and the Greater Winterberg, the two highest mountains of the district, on the summit of the latter whereof we found an inn and good refreshment, and had a fine view of the Ricvsegebirge, in Silesia, about one hundred Enghsh miles distant, where the Elbe has I.j ENTER BOHEMIA. * its source. Some rather interesting geological phe- nomena exist in the vicinity, among which granite is seen superimposed on recent secondary rocks, and in some parts seeming to alternate with them. It was in a walk from the summit of the Greater Winterberg, that in this tour we first entered the Austrian States. Our object was the Probkcher Thor — one of the remarkable sights of the " Saxon Switzerland," but which is in reality on the Bohe- mian soil. Proceeding from the summit of the hill for some distance, along a range of elevated ground chiefly covered with trees, we arrived at a road cross- ing our path at right angles in the midst of a dense forest. This road forms the boundary-line: we passed it, and were in Bohemia. On a jutting stone by the way-side sat two wandering minstrels, — the one with a harp, the other with a flute : they used neither — but with rich sweet voices they greeted in beautiful melody our arrival in their native land. After a further walk of about an English mile, we emerged from the forest, and found ourselves on a lofty terrace of rock. It soon assumed the form of a bold projecting pier, not more in many parts than ten to twelve feet vvide ; and as we paced along this air-hung causeway, we might gaze down from either side on a perpendicular depth of at least eight hun- dred feet. It terminates abruptly ; and, returning from its extremity, we wound down some flights of steps, partly cut in the rock and partly formed of wood- work, and, traversing galleries natural and artificial, 8 AUSTRIA. [CH. we reached, as it were, a lower stratum of terrace, Avhereon stands that grand natural arch which bears the name of the Probischer Thor. It is eighty feet in span, and a hundred and twenty in height ; and is directly under, and partly supports, the causeway we had traversed above. It were vain to attempt a description of the splendid spectacle which is here enjoyed. The view is indeed similar, and perhaps even somewhat more extensive, from the grand bluflp termination of the pier above ; but there is a sense, not of danger indeed, — for the defences against acci- dent are perfect, — but of awe, connected with the almost insulated position of that high projecting point, which distracts the mind from easy contem- plation. Seated beside the Probischer Thor, the stranger may tranquilly survey the rich plain ex- panded at his feet, covered with woods and towns and corn-fields, and bounded by lofty mountains ; while more immediately around him the rock is everywhere broken and rugged, and split into a thousand fragments, with their usual accompani- ments of terraces and galleries, and flights of steps and hanging bridges. By means of these connecting links, every insulated point of this wild fantastic scenery may be reached with ease, and enjoyed in safety : danger is everywhere averted by rails and other defences ; and the vigilance of the local admi- nistration, by which these works were constructed, is ever exerted to keep them in repair. They are the property of the Prince de Clary, the lord of a I.] PROBISCHER THOR. 9 vast domain, at the extremity of which this romantic spot is situated ; and, in that spirit which generally pervades the Austrian government, either imperial or feudal, he has rendered it a place of great holiday resort for the inhabitants of the country below. Here, resting against the abutment of the lofty arch, we found a rustic inn, built in a style admirably harmonizing with the scene around; covered with moss and adorned with luxuriant shrub- beries. Although every consumable article, even water for culinary purposes, is conveyed hither chiefly on the shoulders of men from a great depth below, we found good wine, coffee, meat, and other requi- sites ; and here some few beds are kept, for the accommodation of those who may be inclined to pro- long their stay. The sky was without a cloud on the day of our visit to the Probischer Thor; the sun was Avarm and genial ; and the clear pure air seemed redolent of joyousness, as it wafted to us the soft music of the minstrel band within the rustic inn. They consisted of a violinist, of a youth who played well on the flute, and of two female harpers, one of whom accompanied the instrument with her voice. The Bohemians are passionately fond of music ; and here, in this secluded spot, the minstrels we had heard take their station in early spring, and remain until the approach of winter terminates the labours and the pleasures of their office. We descended from the Probischer Thor, on the Bohemian side, for about three hundred feet, 10 AUSTRIA. [CH. through a sort of crack or fissure in the rock, chiefly by long flights of steps cut into the stone. The fissure then opens into a somewhat broader but still rapidly descending vale; and the pathway, which might now be accessible to mules and ponies, wound beautifully along, first among trees alone, but after- wards accompanied by numerous streams which gush forth from the rock on the way-side, and at length unite their waters into a rivulet sufficient to turn several saw-mills. In one place the ground was covered with timber, blown down in the preceding winter by a hurricane which had levelled three thousand trees in this vale alone. We held on our course, always descending between rocks, often perpendi- cular, but generally clothed with trees chiefly of the fir tribe, until at length the valley opened on the Elbe. At this point stands the small romantic town of Herrnkretschen, containing about five hundred inha- bitants, of whom the greater part reside in detached cottages, surrounded with little shrubberies, partly dispersed in the valley, and partly fronting the Elbe. The town, the vale, and all the district around, is the property of the Prince of Clary, who is lord also of Teplitz ; and here at Herrnkretschen he has re- cently constructed a large and apparently commo- dious hotel on the banks of the river, where he and his Princess usually reside for some weeks in the course of the summer, when on their visits to this portion of his domain. Were the vale of Herrn- kretschen in a more wealthy and peopled country, and I.] SCHANDAU. 11 were approach obtained to it for carriages, it would be studded with villas — but here it stands in lonely beauty. The only access to it is on the Elbe, or by that long deep flight of steps which we had de- scended ; and its only inhabitants are foresters and sawyers, a few cultivators, and the agents of the Prince. We embarked on the Elbe, by a boat which we had ordered up from Schandau ; and, descending the stream, we reached that place in about three- quarters of an hour, just when the day was closing. The river flows here majestically along, between lofty hills of sandstone covered with thick wood, save in those parts, here and there, where it has been felled to afford access to the quarrier. The stone extracted from these hills is carried downwards for building purposes in the various towns along the banks of the river. The houses of Hamburgh are principally constructed of it, and it is not unfrequently carried to Berlin. The quarries extend to Pirna, which place gives the designation by which the stone (Pirna stone) is generally distinguished ; and, as far as they are in the Saxon territory, they belong entirely to the crown. As we floated along, our boat was accompanied by large flocks of geese swimming down the stream, each in a detached group, and landing successively at the hamlet or the cottage to which they belonged, as the evening closed in. They are kept for the sake of their feathers, which are plucked from them generally every ten weeks 12 AUSTRIA. [CH. during two-thirds of the year, and at a rather longer interval during the severer season: when thus re- duced to nakedness, they are kept at home for the first few days, perhaps longer if the weather be cold, and are then sent forth to acquire a new clothing, of which they are soon to be again divested. Such was our first excursion into the territory of Austria. It was one of great and unmixed enjoy- ment. It was disturbed by no queries or notices of any pohce or fiscal officers. In the little inn at the Probischer Thor we saw two or three douaniers, in their uniforms of green, stationed to prevent smug- gling across the frontier: but they noticed us not, save by a silent salutation. Pleasing as is the general scenery of the Saxon Switzerland, and fan- tastically curious as is that of the Bastey in particular, we found it vastly surpassed at the Probischer Thor ; and, had circumstances so permitted, willingly would we therehave lingered a much longer time. Schandau, to which we now returned, the capital of the Saxon Switzerland, is a small neat town of about a thousand inhabitants, finely situated on the bank of the Elbe, at the conjunction of two veiy narrow valleys, separated, as is here so usual, by an almost equally narrow ridge of high hill overhanging the town, and thickly covered with wood. About a quarter of a mile from the river, up one of these valleys, which is here not more than a hundred feet in width from hill to hill, stands, on the brink of a I.] ENTER AUSTRIA. 13 small rapid stream, the Bath Houae, with its chalj'- beate spring and baths. It is a very comfortable hotel, much frequented in the fine season by families and persons from Dresden and elsewhere, with whom Schandau is, for a few weeks, a favourite watering- place ; and we found it ourselves very clean and very comfortable. It is only, however, in the midst of summer that the place can be properly enjoyed : for, in these deep narrow valleys, the air is always damp and chill as soon as the sun declines. Leaving Schandau, we crossed the Elbe with the carriage in a large flat boat, and proceeded to Pirna, on the high road from Dresden to Teplitz. Our course lay for some time near the bank of the Elbe, below a range of high wooded hills which we were afterwards obliged to traverse. Aided by a reinforce- ment of oxen, we toiled heavily up the steep ascent, passing under the walls of Konigstein, one of the strongest fortresses in Europe, erected on an insulated rock eleven hundred feet in height. We were four hours in reaching Pirna, distant from Schandau only twelve English miles. In our next stage we crossed the Bohemian frontier, which has here only a stone to mark the limit ; and arrived at the long straggling town of Peterswalde, the first station of Austrian inspection for passports and baggage. Here we drew up in front of the Imperial Eagle, somewhat expect- ing a rigorous and troublesome examination. We were liappily disappointed. The passports were taken 14 AUSTRIA. [CH. in for the proper visa, and returned with a respectful bow. No questions were asked : no trouble given respecting our baggage ; and we had the satisfaction of finding our pleasurable recollections of the Pro- bischer Thor not disturbed by the slightest unpleasant formality, on this our more regular entrance within the states of the emperor. 