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You can search through I lie lull lexl of 1 1 us book on I lie web al |_-.:. :.-.-:: / / books . qooqle . com/| *i ■3E^' xt v\v\t \i HAUNTS OF OLD LONDON BEING TWENTY-FIVE ETCHINGS OF LITERARY AND HISTORICAL LONDON IN PHOTOGRAVURE BY JOSEPH PENNELL i - • • • . • *  * •» BOSTON LE ROY PHILLIPS I THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY 628958A ASTOR, LENOX AND T1LDEN FOUNDATIONS R 1032 L Published October 1914 » • - » • * » * •• • • • ^» »  Edinburgh THE LIST OF TITLES i statue of charles i ii the gate of the temple iii chelsea iv st bartholomew's gate v ponds at hampstead vi lindsey houses vii doorway, Clifford's inn viii pond at clapham ix henry vii. chapel, westminster ABBEY X SPITALFIELDS CHURCH XI HOUSE WHERE WHISTLER DIED XII HAYMARKET THEATRE XIII CLAPHAM COMMON XIV GREAT COLLEGE STREET XV STEPS, BRITISH MUSEUM XVI ST BARTHOLOMEW'S GRAVEYARD XVII POND, KENSINGTON GARDENS XVIII CHEYNE WALK, CHELSEA xix st John's gate, clerkenwell XX COWLEY STREET XXI GREAT TREE, CHELSEA XXII BUNYAN'S TOMB, BUNHILL FIELDS XXIII THE CHARTERHOUSE XXIV GREAT GATE, LINCOLN'S INN XXV CLOTH FAIR — THE LAST OF OLD LONDON STATUE OF CHARLES I THIS MEMORIAL OF "CHARLES THE MARTYR" HAS A ROMANTIC HISTORY. TRULY DESCRIBED BY WALPOLE AS A "NOBLE EQUESTRIAN STATUE, IN WHICH THE COMMANDING GRACE OF THE FIGURE, AND THE EX- QUISITE FORM OF THE HORSE ARE STRIKING TO THE MOST UNPRACTISED EYE," IT WAS THE WORK OF LE SOEUR, AND WAS SOLD DURING THE COMMONWEALTH TO A BRAZIER ON THE STRICT CONDITION THAT HE BROKE IT UP. INSTEAD OF DOING SO, HE BURIED IT AND PRODUCED IT AGAIN AT THE RESTORATION, WHEN IT WAS SET UP WHERE IT NOW STANDS,ON A PEDESTAL DE- SIGNED BY WREN, AND EXECUTED BY GRINLING GIB- BONS. HERE, OBLIVIOUS TO THE "WEARINESS, THE FEVER,ANDTHEFRET"OF HUMANITY SURGING ROUND HIM THROUGH THE CENTURIES, AND BURIED IN THOUGHTS TOO DEEP FOR TEARS, CHARLES GAZES IN CALM DIGNITY DOWN WHITEHALL TO THE VERY SCENE OFTHETRAGEDYOF3OTHJANUARY I649. APATHETIC REMINDER OF " OLD, UNHAPPY, FAR-OFF THINGS " IS GIVEN ANNUALLY ON THE ANNIVERSARY OF HIS DEATH, WHEN THE STATUE IS DECORATED WITH FLOWERS AND WREATHS BY A FEW FAITHFUL ADHER- ENTS OF THE HAPLESS HOUSE OF STUART. II THE GATE OF THE TEMPLE THIS IS THE ENTRANCE TO WHAT WAS ONCE A STRONG- HOLD OF THE KNIGHTS TEMPLARS — WHOSE BEAUTI- FUL CHURCH STILL REMAINS— AND IS NOW A QUAR- TER MORE HAUNTED BY LITERARY GHOSTS THAN ANY OTHER IN THE METROPOLIS. THE ROOM ABOVE THE ARCHWAY WAS BUILT IN THE TIME OF JAMES I., AND BELONGED TO HIS LAMENTED SON, HENRY, PRINCE OF WALES. EVERYWHERE AROUND THE TEMPLE ONE FEELS THAT "ANTIQUE AIR" WHICH SO MUCH AP- PEALED TO THE WISTFUL MIND OF CHARLES LAMB. HE, OF COURSE, IS THE GENIUS LOCI TO THE VISITOR OF TO- DAY, THOUGH SHARING HIS HONOURS WITH JOHNSON AND GOLDSMITH, THE LATTER OF WHOM SLEEPS HIS LAST SLEEP IN THE TEMPLE GRAVEYARD. BOSWELL RESIDED HERE, AND DICKENS, WHO WAS STEEPED IN ITS ATMOSPHERE, MADE ITTHESCENEOFSOMETOUCH- ING EPISODES. A MORE VIGOROUS GHOST IS THAT OF SARAH, THE GREAT DUCHESS OF MARLBOROUGH. SHE CAME ONE DAY TO SEE HER LEGAL ADVISER, AND BE- HAVED OUTRAGEOUSLY WHEN SHE FOUND HE WAS AB- SENT. "I COULD NOT TELL WHO SHE WAS," SAID THE SERVANT AFTERWARDS, "FOR SHE WOULD NOT GIVE ME HER NAME, BUT SHE SWORE SO DREADFULLY THAT I AM SURE SHE MUST BE A LADY OF HIGH DEGREE." Ill CHELSEA CHELSEA, AS THIS ETCHING SHOWS, CAN BE PICTU- RESQUE TO-DAY, THOUGH IN A DIFFERENT WAY FROM THE TIME WHEN IT WAS A QUIET COUNTRY VILLAGE, AND THE OLD CHELSEA BUN-HOUSE WAS A FAVOURITE RESORT OF THE COURT. CARLYLE DESCRIBED CHELSEA IN H1STIMBAS"ASINGULAR HETEROGENEOUS KINDOF SPOT, VERY DIRTY AND CONFUSED IN SOME PLACES, QUITE BEAUTIFUL IN OTHERS, ABOUNDING IN ANTI- QUITIES AND THE TRACES OF GREAT MEN." IT IS THE LASTOFTHESE CHARACTERISTICS WHICH IS THE PRIN- CIPAL ATTRACTION OF CHELSEA, FOR ALL THE FAMOUS MEN WHO HAVE BEEN ASSOCIATED WITH IT WOULD BE TOO NUMEROUS TO MENTION. ITS EARLY FAME AROSE FROM THE FACT THAT "BLESSED THOMAS MORE" LIVED THERE THE BEAUTIFUL FAMILY LIFE WHOSE VERY PEACEFULNESS AT THAT STORMY PERIOD MAY SEEM TO HAVE PRESAGED ITS BLOODY END. HE WAS VISITED BY ERASMUS, AND IN HIS CHELSEA HOME HOL- BEIN WAS PRESENTED TO HENRY VIII., AN INTRODUC- TION WHICH HAD ARTISTIC RESULTS KNOWN TO ALL THE WORLD. IV GATE OF ST BARTHOLOMEW'S THE GREAT THIS POINTED EARLY ENGLISH ARCHWAY, WITH ITS DOG-TOOTH ORNAMENTATION, FORMS THE ENTRANCE TO THE SPLENDID OLD NORMAN PRIORY CHURCH, WHICH, AFTER MANY VICISSITUDES, SURVIVES TO- DAY — AN IMPRESSIVE RELIC OF THE REIGN OF HEN- RY I. IN IT HOGARTH WAS BAPTISED. THE ARCH ITSELF LOOKS ON TO SMITHFIELD — GROUND CONSE- CRATED BY THE BLOOD OF MANY MARTYRS. ONLY A FEW YARDS AWAY A LARGE STONE COMMEMORATES THE DEATH ON THIS SPOT OF THREE OF THE TWO HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-SEVEN PEOPLE WHO, IN THE REIGN OF QUEEN MARY, "SUFFERED DEATH BY FIRE FOR THE FAITH OF CHRIST." HERE ALSO DIED SIR WILLIAM WALLACE, THE SCOTTISH PATRIOT, AND WAT TYLER. NEAR THE ARCH IS THE ENTRANCE TO LITTLE BRITAIN, ONCE A LANE OF BOOKSHOPS AND A FAMOUS LITERARY HAUNT ; AND QUITE CLOSE ALSO IS MILTON STREET, THE ORIGINAL " GRUB STREET" OF INKY MEMORIES, AND SO CALLED NOW AFTER THE POET, WHO OCCASION ALL Y RESIDED IN THIS QUARTER. 63895SA PONDS AT HAMPSTEAD HAMPSTEAD RIVALS CHELSEA IN LITERARY AND AR- TISTIC MEMORIES. IT STANDS HIGH AND IS ALMOST ALWAYS SWEPT BY A CLEAN, HEALTHY, REFRESHING BREEZE, WHILE THE HEATH, THE ONLY TRULY RURAL GROUND EASILY REACHED FROM THE CITY, IS A PRICE- LESS BOON TO TIRED LONDONERS. ITS BLUE HORIZONS HAVE BEEN PAINTED TIME AND AGAIN BY CONSTABLE WHO WAS A RESIDENT. LEIGH HUNT AND KEATS LIVED AT HAMPSTEAD, AND THE GREATER PART OF ENDY- MION WAS WRITTEN THERE. IT WAS THE SCENE OF THE MEETINGS OF THE KIT-KAT CLUB, FREQUENTED BY ADDISON, STEELE, AND CONGREVE, AND OTHER WITS OF THE PERIOD, AND HAS ASSOCIATIONS WITH LAW AND POLITICS IN THE PERSON OF THE GREAT LORD MANSFIELD. VI LINDSEY HOUSES THIS IS ONE OF THE OLDEST BUILDINGS IN CHELSEA AND IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE BEEN DESIGNED BY WREN. IT IS NOW DIVIDED INTO FIVE HOUSES, BUT WAS ORIGINALLY ONE, BEING BUILT FOR TURQUET DE MAYERNE, WHO WAS PHYSICIAN TO HENRY IV. OF FRANCE. IT AFTERWARDS BECAME THE PROPERTY OF THE EARLS OF LINDSEY, ONE OF WHOM MARRIED THE WIDOW OF CRUEL JUDGE JEFFREYS, AND WAS LATER THE HEADQUARTERS OF A MORAVIAN SETTLEMENT IN CHELSEA. ITS MOST DISTINGUISHED RESIDENT IN MODERN TIMES WAS WHISTLER. -■ -' VII DOORWAY, CLIFFORD'S INN THIS INN OF CHANCERY WAS SO CALLED AFTER ROBERT DE CLIFFORD, WHO WAS GRANTED THE PROPERTY BY EDWARD II. IN ITS HALL ALL THE DISPUTES THAT AROSE AFTER THE GREAT FIRE WERE SETTLED BY SIR MATTHEW HALE ; AND IT HAS NUMBERED AMONG ITS RESIDENTS SIR EDWARD COKE, JOHN SELDEN, AND HARRISON THE REGICIDE. HERE AT NO. 1 3 DWELT GEORGE DYER, THE AMICUS REDIVIVUS OF ELI A, A CUR- IOUS CREATURE OF WHOM WHEATLEY SAYS THAT HE " BECAME SO WEDDED TO THESE CHAMBERS THAT HE AT LAST WEDDED THE LAUNDRESS ALSO, A VERY WOR- THY WOMAN BUT ' NOT LITERATE ' " : AND NEAR BY IS ST DUNSTAN'S CHURCH, OF WHICH DONNE WAS VICAR, NUMBERING AMONG HIS CONGREGATION HIS FUTURB BIOGRAPHER, IZAAK WALTON. VIII POND AT CLAPHAM LIKE ALL THE SUBURBS OF LONDON CLAPHAM HAS ITS MEMORIES OF THE GREAT MEN OF THE PAST. WILLIAM WILBERFORCE LIVED IN IT FOR MANY YEARS, AND AT NUMBER 5 THE PAVEMENT WAS PASSED THE HAPPY CHILDHOOD OF THOMAS BABINGTON MACAU LAY. "POOR, SILLY, CONCEITED" MR SECRETARY PEPYS QUITTED HIS GARRULOUS LIFE AT CLAPHAM IN 1703. IX HENRY VII. CHAPEL, WESTMINSTER ABBEY "MORTALITY, BEHOLD AND PEAR, WHAT A CHANGE OF FLESH IS HERB ! ******* HERE ARE SANDS, IGNOBLE THINGS, DROPT FROM THE RUINED SIDES OF KINGS : HERE'S A WORLD OF POMP AND STATE BURIED IN DUST ONCE DEAD BY FATE." SO WROTE BEAUMONT ABOUT THIS EXQUISITE BUILD- ING, DESCRIBED BY RUSKIN AS "THE MOST BEAUTI- FUL CHAPEL IN THE WORLD." IT WAS BUILT AS A MAUSOLEUM FOR HIMSELF BY HENRY VII., AND, CON- TAINING ALSO THE BONES OF HIS WIFE ELIZABETH, IT COMMEMORATES THE HAPPY UNION OF LANCASTER AND YORK IN ENGLISH HISTORY. IT IS INDEED A NATIONAL VALHALLA. THE BEAUTY OF THE EXTERIOR SPEAKS OF THE PEACE WHICH REIGNS WITHIN — THE EVERLASTING PEACE OF RECONCILING DEATH. THE CHAPEL IS BUILT ON THE SITE OFTHEHOUSE IN WHICH CHAUCER DIED, AND JOSEPH ADDISON RESTS BENEATH ITS PAVEMENT. MANY OTHER GREAT NAMES ARE FOUND ON ITS MANIFOLD TOMBS. EDWARD VI. OF GRACIOUS MEMORY SLEEPS QUIETLY WITHIN A FEW PACES OF THE DAUGHTER OF OLIVER CROMWELL. MOST IMPRESSIVE OF ALL, ELIZABETH AND MARY, SUCCESS- IVE QUEENS OF ENGLAND — THOSE "SISTERS OF BIT- TER HATE AND STRANGE DESTINY " — LIE TOGETHER IN A CONTRACTED SEPULCHRE, THEIR LITTLE LIVES ROUNDED OFF BYTHE PIOUS INSCRIPTION OF JAMES I. , " CLOSING," AS DEAN STANLEY SAID, "THE LONG WAR OF THE REFORMATION : " REGNO CONSORTES BT URN A, NIC OBDORMIMUS ELIZABETH A ET MARIA SORORBS, INSPE RESURRECTIONIS. WELL MAY THE POET CRY, "IN GREATNESS IS NO TRUST." SPITALFIELDS CHURCH SPITALFIELDS IS A DISTRICT IN THE EAST OF LONDON, NOW CHIEFLY KNOWN AS THE CENTRE OF THE SILK- WEAVING INDUSTRY. THE NAME IS AN ABBREVIATION OF HOSPITAL FIELDS, DERIVED FROM THE FACT THAT THE FIELDS ON WHICH THE HOUSES NOW STAND ONCE BELONGED TO THE PRIORY OF ST MARY SPITAL, FOUND- ED IN 1 197 BY WALTER BRUNE, AND NOW REPRESENT- ED BY CHRIST CHURCH, SPITALFIELDS, THE SUBJECT OF THIS ETCHING. THE SILK INDUSTRY HERB REVIVES POIGNANT MEMORIES. IT WAS FOUNDED BY THE FRENCH REFUGEES WHO WERE EXPELLED FROM FRANCE AT THE REVOCATION OF THE EDICT OF NANTES, AND MANY OF THE INHABITANTS STILL HAVE FRENCH NAMES OR OBVIOUS ENGLISH FORMS OF FRENCH NAMES. THE CHURCH WAS BUILT IN 1 729 BY HAWKSMORE, A FAVOURITE PUPIL OF WREN, AND WAS ONCE THE LARGEST MODERN CHURCH IN LONDON. I XI HOUSE WHERE WHISTLER DIED TO MANY PEOPLE WHO ARE MORE INTERESTED IN ART THAN IN LITERATURE, THE NAME OF CHELSEA IS SYN- ONYMOUS WITH THAT OF WHISTLER. IT WAS HERE, WITHTHEMYSTERIOUSRIVEREVERBEFOREHIM,THAT HE DISCOVERED AND REVEALED TO THE WORLD THE WONDROUS ARTISTIC QUALITIES OF WHARVES AND UGLY BRIDGES WHEN THEY ARE SHROUDED IN DARK- NESS OR FOG. HE HAS DESCRIBED THE FEELINGS, TO WHICH WE OWE HIS PICTURES, IN AN ELOQUENT PAS- SAGE: " THE EVENING MIST CLOTHES THE RIVERSIDE WITH POETRY, AS WITH A VEIL, AND THE POOR BUILD- INGS LOSE THEMSELVES INTHE DIM SKY, AND THE TALL CHIMNEYS BECOME C^J//>^AY£/. AND THE WAREHOUSES ARE PALACES IN THE NIGHT, AND THE WHOLE CITY HANGS IN THE HEAVENS, AND FAIRYLAND IS BEFORE US." < XII HAYMARKET THEATRE THIS FINE BUILDING DATBS FROM 1820, THOUGH IT OCCUPIES ALMOST THE SAME SITE AS A PREVIOUS PLAYHOUSE KNOWN AS THE LITTLE THEATRE. MANY NAMES FAMOUS IN THEATRICAL ANNALS ARE ASSOCI- ATED WITH THE HAYMARKET — CHARLES KEAN, KEMBLB, MACREADY, HELEN FAUCIT, AND SAMUEL PHELPS HAVE ALL PLAYED HERE. I N MORE MODERN TIMES IT WAS THE SCENEOFTHE BANCROFT TRIUMPHS AND OF SIR HERBERT TREE'S EARLY SUCCESSES AS A MANAGER. IT SAW THE FIRST PRODUCTION OF barrie's UTTLB MINISTER, AND ON ITS STAGE • ' BUNTY " FIRST BEGAN TO PULL THE STRINGS OF FAME. XIII CLAPHAM COMMON CLAPHAM IS CHIEFLY KNOWN FOR ITS COMMON, A FINE OPEN SPACE OF GROUND, SOME OF THE TREES ON WHICH WERE BROUGHT FROM ABROAD AND PLACED THERE BY CAPTAIN COOK, THE GREAT NAVIGATOR. CLAPHAM, NEVERTHELESS, HAS A PLACE IN ANCIENT HISTORY, BEING MENTIONED IN DOOMSDAY BOOK. IT MAY DERIVE ITS NAME FROM THE ONE-TIME LORD OF THE MANOR, OSGOD CLAPPA, AT WHOSE DAUGHTER'S MARRIAGE HARDICANUTE, THE DANISH KING, HAD A FIT AND DIED. THE NEIGHBOURING BOROUGH OF WANDSWORTH, NOW A CROWDED SUBURB, IS COM- MENDED BY IZAAK WALTON FOR ITS " FISHFUL QUALITIES." XIV GREAT COLLEGE STREET THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST DELIGHTFUL STREETS IN LONDON. WITH ITS DIGNIFIED CREEPER-COVERED HOUSES AND THE BIRDS SINGING IN THE TREES WHICH OVERHANG THE OLD WALL BUILT BY ABBOT LITH- LINGTON, IT SEEMS BATHED IN PERPETUAL PEACE, THOUGH BUT A FEW MINUTES' WALK FROM THE HOME OF PERPETUAL CONTENTION AT WESTMINSTER. GIB- BON'S AUNT, "THE AFFECTIONATE GUARDIAN OF HIS TENDER YEARS," LIVED HERE, AND THE GREAT HIS- TORIAN STAYED WITH HER FOR SOME TIME ; WHILE AT NUMBER 25, KEATS HAD LODGINGS FROM WHICH SOME OF THE LETTERS TO FANNY BRAWNE ARE ADDRESSED. i XV STEPS, BRITISH MUSEUM THB BRITISH MUSEUM IS ONE OF THE MOST DIGN- IFIED BUILDINGS IN LONDON. FOUNDED ALMOST BY CHANCE, IT HAS GROWN BY CONSTANT ADDITIONS TO AN ENORMOUS EXTENT, AND MANY MEN, WHO AFTER- WARDS ACHIEVED GREAT FAME, BEGAN THEIR CAR- EERS BY BURROWING AMONG ITS INEXHAUSTIBLE LITERARY TREASURES. IT MAY INDEED BE CALLED THE LITERARY CLEARING-HOUSE OF THE ENGLISH- SPEAKING RACES. IT STANDS ON THE SITE OF THE FAMOUS OLD MONTAGUE HOUSE, ONE OF LONDON'S NOBLEST PRIVATE RESIDENCES, AND IN THE HOUSE AT ITS WESTERN CORNER, NOW REBUILT AND KNOWN AS 90 GREAT RUSSELL STREET, SHELLEYONCE LODGED. 4 XVI ST BARTHOLOMEW'S GRAVEYARD THIS "CRAZY LITTLE GRAVEYARD" IS TYPICAL OF WHAT ONE SOMETIMES FINDS IN THE MOST UNEXPECT- ED PLACES IN LONDON. ENTERING FROM THE STIR OF SMITHFIELD MARKET AND THE DARK AND CROWDED PURLIEUS OF LITTLE BRITAIN, THE TRAVELLER IS SOOTHED BY THE UNEXPECTED GREENERY OF THE ONE OR TWO TREES, AND THE RATHER ATTENUATED GRASS OF THE GRAVES. WITH THE CHURCH ITSELF, THIS IS ALL THAT REMAINS OF WHAT WAS ONCE ONE OF THE LARGEST RELIGIOUS HOUSES IN LONDON. EVERY GOOD FRIDAY THE GRAVEYARD IS THE SCENE OF A CURIOUS CEREMONY WHOSE ORIGIN IS BURIED IN ANTIQUITY. THERE IS A SERMON BY THE RECTOR, AND THEREAFTER TWENTY-ONE SIXPENCES ARE DROPPED AND PICKED UP BY AN EQUAL NUMBER OF PREVIOUSLY SELECTED WOMEN. XVII POND, KENSINGTON GARDENS LEIGH HUNT SAID OF KENSINGTON THAT IT HAD " A PALACE WHICH IS NO PALACE, GARDENS WHICH ARE NO GARDENS, AND A RIVER CALLED THE SERPENTINE WHICH IS NEITHER SERPENTINE NOR A RIVER." WHETHER IT BE TRUE OR NOT, THIS IS A SEVERE JUDGMENT, AND KENSINGTON HAS PLENTY OF ATTRACTIONS. THE MELLOW-COLOURED PALACEWAS BUILT BY WREN FOR WILLIAM II., AND QUEEN MARY DIED IN IT; SO DID QUEEN ANNE. HERE QUEEN VICTORIA WAS BORN AND PASSED A SIMPLE, HAPPY CHILDHOOD; AND HERE OCCURRED THE HISTORIC SCENE WHEN SHE WAS ROUSED FROM SLEEP TO BE TOLD BY THE ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY AND THE LORD CHAMBERLAIN THAT SHE WAS QUEEN OF ENGLAND. THE ROUND POND IN THE FOREGROUND OF THIS ETCH- ING HAS BEEN VERY HAPPILY DESCRIBED AS " THE CHILDREN'S MEDITERRANEAN," AND THE REAL PETER-PAN SPIRIT WHICH REIGNS IN THESE GARDENS HAS INSPIRED BARRIE'S THE LITTLE WHITE BIRD XVIII CHEYNE WALK, CHELSEA INNUMERABLE ARE THE ASSOCIATIONS OF THIS STREET WITH LITERATURE AND ART. AT NUMBER 4, GEORGE ELIOT DIED IN l88o, IN THE HOUSE WHICH WAS PRE- VIOUSLY OCCUPIED BY DANIEL MACLISE,THB PAINTER. NUMBER l6— QUEEN'S HOUSE, AS IT IS CALLED— HAS A ROMANTIC HISTORY. THE ORIGINAL HOUSE ON THIS SPOT WAS ASSOCIATED WITH HENRY VIII. 'S QUEEN, KATHERINE PARR, AND WITH HIS DAUGHTER ELIZABETH, AND THE PRESENT HOUSE IS BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN BUILT BY WREN FOR CATHERINE OF BRAGANZA, THE NEGLECTED WIFE OF CHARLES II. IT BECAME THE RESIDENCE EVENTUALLY, AFTER HIS WIFE'S DEATH, OF DANTE GABRIEL ROSSETTI, WHO HERE GATHERED TOGETHER HIS EXTRAORDINARY COLLECTION OF STRANGE ANIMALS, AND SHARED THE HOUSE FOR A TIME WITH MEREDITH AND SWINBURNE. HOLMAN HUNT ONCE LIVED IN CHEYNE WALK, AND AT NUMBER II9, TURNER HAD THE SMALL HOUSE WHENCE HE VIEWED THE WONDERFUL EVENING SKIES, WHICH SO FILLED HIS SOMBRE MIND THAT ON HIS DEATH-BED HE CRIED ALOUD WITH ALMOST HIS LAST BREATH "THE SUN IS GOD." XIX ST JOHN'S GATE, CLERKENWELL THIS IS THE ONLY REMAINING RELIC OF THE MEDI- AEVAL PRIORY OF ST JOHN, THE CHIEF ENGLISH SEAT OF THE KNIGHTS HOSPITALLERS OF ST JOHN OF JERUSALEM, WHICH WAS SUPPRESSED BY HENRY VIII. IT IS A FINE PIECE OF PERPENDICULAR ARCHITEC- TURE, BEING A RESTORED FRAGMENT OF THE SOUTH GATE BUILT IN I504. IT BEARS THE ARMS OF FRANCE AND ENGLAND. INTERESTING IN ITSELF, THE ARCH IS ALSO A LITERARY SHRINE, FOR IN THE BUILDING ABOVE IT DR JOHNSON WORKED FOR THE GENTLE- MAN'S MAGAZINE, LIVING AN " INKY, DIRTY, HER- MIT-LIKE EXISTENCE " IN THE TERRIBLE EARLY DAYS OF HIS LONDON LIFE, WHEN HE USED TO " EAT HIS FOOD BEHIND A SCREEN, BEING TOO SHABBY FOR PUB- LICITY." HE IS SAID TO HAVE FIRST MET SAVAGE HERE. PEOPLE USED TO VISIT THE FINE NORMAN CRYPT OF ST JOHN'S CHURCH CLOSE AT HAND TO SEE THE COFFIN OF "SCRATCHING FANNY, "THE HEROINE OF THE FAMOUS COCK LANE GHOST AFFAIR — A FRAUD ON THE PUBLIC IN THE DETECTION OF WHICH, AC- CORDING TO BOS WELL, THE GREAT LEXICOGRAPHER PLAYED A BUSINESS-LIKE PART. 4 XX COWLEY STREET THIS QUIET SECLUDED CORNER OF LONDON, WITH ITS FRIENDLY GEORGIAN HOUSES, DOOMED TO DISAPPEAR ERE LONG, DERIVES ITS NAME — NOT FROM THE POET, THOUGH HE CURIOUSLY ENOUGH WAS AT SCHOOL AT WESTMINSTER, CLOSE AT HAND — BUT FROM ITS ONE- TIME PROPRIETOR, BARTON BOOTH, THE ACTOR, THE ORIGINAL "CATO " OF ADDISON'S PLAY, WHO WAS A NATIVE OF COWLEY, IN MIDDLESEX. HE INVESTED HIS SAVINGS IN PROPERTY IN WESTMINSTER, AND THERE IS A MONUMENT TO HIS MEMORY IN THE ABBEY, ERECTED BY HIS WIFE, WHO IS MENTIONED BY GAY AS THE " SANTLOW, FAM*D FOR DANCE " AMONG POPE'S FRIENDS. J XXI GREAT TREE, CHELSEA \ THE FEW TREES THAT FLOURISH IN CHELSEA NOW ARE REMINDERS OF THE TIME WHEN IT WAS THE SECLUD- ED RURAL RETREAT — " FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD'S IGNOBLE STRIFE " — OF MANY WHO PLAYED A PROMINENT PART IN THE WORLD. CARLYLB'S HOUSE IN* CHEYNE ROW IS THE MAGNET TO MOST VISITOR* 1 NOWADAYS : BUT NEARLY EVERY STREET IN CHELSEA ^ HAS MEMORIES OF VANISHED GREATNESS. ADDISON, LOCKE, SMOLLETT, STEELE, SWIFT, AND WALPOL3 HAVE ALL BEEN ASSOCIATED WITH CHELSEA AT ONE TIME OR ANOTHER, NOT TO MENTION OTHERS WHOSE CONNECTION WITH IT HAS BEEN TRACED IN REFER- ENCE TO OTHER ETCHINGS IN THIS BOOK. QUITE NEAR THE CARLYLES LIVED THE LEIGH HUNTS, BOHEMIANS OF THE MOST IRREPRESSIBLE TYPE, OF WHOSE HAPPY- GO-LUCKY DOMESTIC ARRANGEMENTS CARLYLE HAS GIVEN A SARDONICALLY HUMOROUS DESCRIPTION. « 1 XXII BUNYAN'S TOMB, BUNHILL FIELDS HERB MAY ONB FEEL THE UTTER DESOLATION OF DEATH, IN A PIECE OF GROUND OF PERHAPS FOUR ACRES IN EXTENT — OF WHICH NOT A SQUARE YARD IS WITHOUT ITS HUMAN DUST — THICKLY STUDDED WITH GREY AND GRIMY HEADSTONES IN EVERY ATTI- TUDE OF FATIGUE AND DESPAIR, AND WITH ALL THE SURROUNDINGS CALCULATED TO POINT THE MOURN- FUL MORAL OF THE PLACE. IT SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN VERY EARLY ASSOCIATED WITH MORTALITY'S SAD END, FOR THE NAME " BUNHILL" IS DERIVED FROM BONE- HILL. NOT FAR FROM BUNYAN LIES DEFOE, THE AU- THOR OF ROBINSON CRUSOE, AND HENRY, RICHARD, AND WILLIAM CROMWELL ARE ALL CLOSE AT HAND. DR ISAAC WATTS SLEEPS PEACEFULLY WITHIN SOME YARDS OF THE MOTHER OF THE WESLEYS. SADDEST OF ALL, HERE IS THE GRAVE OF WILLIAM BLAKE, A DREARY RESTING-PLACE FOR ONE WHO SO LOVED " ENGLAND'S GREEN AND PLEASANT LAND." XXIII CHARTERHOUSE THIS ARCHWAY IN THE PERPENDICULAR STYLE LEADS INTO THE CHARTERHOUSE, WHICH WAS ONCE A POW- ERFUL CARTHUSIAN MONASTERY. IT WAS SUPPRESSED BY HENRY VIII. , BECAME THE PROPERTY OF THE DUKE OF NORFOLK, AND WAS FINALLY SOLD TO SIR THOMAS SUTTON, WHO CONVERTED IT INTO A HOSPITAL FOR EIGHTY POOR MEN AND FORTY POOR BOYS. MANY MEN WHO AFTERWARDS BECAME FAMOUS HAVE BENEFITED BY THIS GRACIOUS CHARITY. FOXE OF THE BOOK OF MARTYRS FAME STAYED IN THE CHARTERHOUSE WITH HIS PATRON, THE DUKE OF NORFOLK. WESLEY RECEIVED HIS SCHOOLING HERE, AS DID ALSO ADDI- SON AND STEELE, WHOSE FAMOUS LITERARY PARTNER- SHIP IN AFTER YEARS WAS THUS ANTICIPATED BY THEIR ASSOCIATION IN BOYHOOD. ANOTHER PUPIL WAS LOVELACE, IMMORTALISED BY HIS LINES THAT "STONE WALLS DO NOT A PRISON MAKE, NOR IRON BARS A CAGE." BUT THE CHARTERHOUSE IS BOUND UP FOR EVER WITH THE MEMORY OF WILLIAM MAKEPEACE THACK- ERAY AND THAT OTHER DISTINGUISHED ALUMNUS. COLONEL NEWCOME, WHOSE DEATH WITHIN ITS PRE- CINCTS HAS BEEN DESCRIBED BY HIS CREATOR AND FELLOW-CARTHUSIAN IN ONE OF THE MOST MOVING PASSAGES IN ENGLISH LITERATURE. XXIV GREAT GATE, LINCOLN'S INN THIS FINE MEDIAEVAL BUILDING DATES FROM 1518, BEING BUILT BY THOMAS LOWELL, WHOSE ARMS IT BEARS. IT DERIVES A PARTICULAR INTEREST FROM THE TRADITION THAT A POOR BRICKLAYER WAS FOUND WORKING ON IT "WITH A HORACE IN ONE HAND AND A TROWEL IN THE OTHER " — THE SAME WHO LIVES ON IN LITERARY HISTORY AS " RARE BEN JONSON." SIR THOMAS MORE AND WILLIAM PENN WERE STUDENTS OF LINCOLN'S INN, AND NOT FAR FROM THIS GATE, CROMWELL'S SECRETARY, THURLOE, HAD ROOMS. SOME OF THE CELEBRATED LEGAL PRO- CEEDINGS REPORTED BY CHARLES DICKENS IN BLEAK HOUSE WERE TRANSACTED IN THE GREAT HALL HERE. XXV CLOTH FAIR— THE LAST OF OLD LONDON NOWHERE ELSE IN LONDON PERHAPS CAN ONE IN- DULGE SO EASILY AS IN CLOTH FAIRTHE "PASSION FOR THE PAST, FOR THINGS IRRETRIEVABLE AND FADING FAST. M IT BREATHES EVEN NOW AN OLD-WORLD AT- MOSPHERE. ITS QUAINT RICKETY-LOOKING HOUSES WERE ONCE INHABITED BY GRANDEES & MERCHANT PRINCES, AND ONE TOTTERING BUILDING IS REPORTED TO HAVE BELONGED TO THE EARL OF WARWICK. WHEN BARTHOLOMEW FAIR WAS A GREAT ANNUAL FESTIVAL THIS STREET WAS THE SCENE OF THE FAMOUS "COURT OF PIE POWDRE," WHEN WEIGHTS AND MEASURES WERE CORRECTED AND LICENCES GRANTED. IT WAS GIVEN THE NAME BECAUSE "JUSTICE WAS DONE THERE AS SPEEDILY AS DUST CAN FALL FROM THE FOOT." THE CITIES SERIES A brilliant series of drawings by eminent artists, with illustrations in photogravure and gravure- tint t mounted. A LITTLE BOOK OF LONDON 25 drawings in photogravure by Joseph Pennell. In decorative covers, net 50 cents. In Japanese vellum with illustrations mounted, net $1.00. THE GREAT NEW YORK 4 drawings in photogravure by Joseph Pennell. In decorative cover net 50 cents. In Japanese vellum with illustrations mounted, net $1.00. GLASGOW, THE CITY OF THE WEST 24 drawings in photogravure of Old Glasgow by Jessie M. King. In decorative covers, net 50 cents. EDINBURGH, THE GREY CITY OF THE NORTH 24 drawings of Old Edinburgh by Jessie M. King. In decorative covers, net 50 cents. DWELLINGS OF AN OLD-WORLD TOWN IN FIFESHIRE 25 drawings by Jessie M. King. In decorative covers, net 50 cents. SAN FRANCISCO, THE CITY OF THE GOLDEN GATE 25 drawings in photogravure by Joseph Pennell. In decorative covers, net 75 cents. VENICE, THE CITY OF THE SEA 25 drawings in photogravure by Joseph Pennell. In decorative covers, net 75 cents. BOSTON IN NEW ENGLAND, ITS BYWAYS AND HIGH- WAYS 25 drawings in photogravure by John Albert Sbafo&d. In decorative covers, net 50 cents. Uniform with the above series R. L. STEVENSON : MEMORIES Being twenty-five illustrations, reproduced from photographs, of Robert Louis Stevenson, his homes and his haunts. Many of these reproduced for the first time. A booklet for every Stevenson lover. In decorative covers, net 50 cents. LE ROY PHILLIPS, PUBLISHER 29A BEACON STREET, BOSTON 9 4„- &* «"«» * MAft 1 - 1934 k I*- £■■■ )■■ ■« - &*. M - f If. i. 