Life in the Orient, with numerous illustrations
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A' A* o % •? % a o '"boS A ^ /‘ 'V x *■ * o 0 * * f A * -» y» ~^rlc ' - \v- V. ^ ,/"> ■’ ~° ^ „<•«, •-'c. \> 's"s "> -„ ,P ey ,-^%#/,v ^ v ♦'vs' ■ % y .* 4f,.'^s,A ® ^ ,<y “ • LIFE IN THE ORIENT LIFE IN THE ORIENT WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS BY K. H. BASMAJIAN n } i > o ) » > > * AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY 150 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK CITY COPYRIGHT, 1899, 1910, BY KRIKOR HAGOP BASMAJIAN. ©CI.A265011 TO THE AMERICAN MISSIONARIES WHO BY THEIR TRIALS AND TRIUMPHS ARE UPBUILDING THE KINGDOM OF EMMANUEL IN TURKEY, AND TO THE MEMORY OF THE MARTYRS OF ARMENIA WHO DIED FOR CHRIST AND FATHERLAND, THIS HUMBLE VOLUME IS SINCERELY DEDICATED PREFACE TO THE THIRD AND REVISED EDITION. To bring the last edition of this work up to the present conditions in Turkey, some slight revisions are made, new chapters added, and entirely new illustrations have been introduced. I beg the indulgence of my readers to the fol¬ lowing statement. As a strong believer in all Christian missions over the world, let me say that the American missionaries in the empire of Turkey are engaged entirely in religious, educa¬ tional, and philanthropic work. Their work is not political, social, and commercial, but in the truest sense they are evangelical messengers. I believe too that they play a prominent r6le in the forma¬ tion of the national character of the people, as this was conspicuously manifested in Bulgaria after her independence. It is my earnest prayer that the success of their labors, which has been so marked in the past, be greater in the future, and the seed sown in unsea- 8 PREFACE. sonable times may bring, in a more favorable at¬ mosphere, multifold results. The chief interest of the United States in Tur¬ key lies in her missionaries. Their presence brought the United States into favor in Turk¬ ish diplomatic circles. At present our Govern¬ ment has no political prestige in Turkey such as the European nations have, but I believe that morally the United States is equal, if not superior, to every European power in that country. The pretended friends and the sincere enemies of the Ottoman Empire have tried their utmost and ex¬ hausted all their diplomacy to solve “ the Eastern question ’ ’ and many other perplexing matters without much success. May we not hope that in due time the United States will, for the sake of peace and humanity, solve the chronic problems of that unhappy land, and help to introduce there the truest and noblest constitutional govern¬ ment ? Then, and only then, the ideal motto of the “Young Turkey Party,” as well as of many others, “Liberty, Equality, and Fraternity,” will be realized. The writer expresses his obligations to the Christian Herald , New York, for the articles writ- PREFACE. 9 ten by the missionaries, “The Truth about the Massacres ’ ’ and ‘ * How the Kharne Martyrs Died. ’ ’ He is indebted also to The Outlook , New York, for its courtesy in permitting the use of its valu¬ able article “ Who is Responsible? ” The author is grateful also to the American Tract Society, which has once more facilitated the publication of the book. K. H. BASMAJIAN. ILL USTRA TIONS. K. H. Basmajian . frontispiece Armenian Church Choir-Boys . opp. page 26 Armenian Celebrities . 48 - Missionaries and Native Pastors. Some of the latter were undoubtedly victims of the recent massacres.. . 62 Adana seen after the Massacre . . 80 Ex-Sultan Abdul Hamid. The Sultan driving from his Palace to the Mosque for Prayer . 90 Bulgarian Girls . 106 Victims of the Recent Massacre . 122 a. Rev. Mr. Rogers, the American Martyr Missionary. b. Rev. D. Kondakjian, native pastor of Kessab. c. Hon. D. Oorfalian, the first Christian Martyr of Adana. Constantinople, where the battle was fought April 13. 1909, between the Young Turksand the Reactionarists, 142 The Oriental Automobile . 166 Oriental Greek Funeral Procession . 202 ✓ Turkish Beauties . 216 Shefket Pasha, the Military Dictator of Constantinople, and his Lieutenants . 232 The Turkish Governor who permitted the Massacre at Adana, and the Orphans made by the Massacre . 252 Turkish Statesmen . 266 1. Midhat Pasha, the author of the Constitution. 2. Riza Bey, first President of the Chamber of Deputies. 3. Hakki Bey, the Turkish Ambassador to Wash¬ ington. 4. Hon. Gabriel Noradoongian, Minister of Public Works, the only Armenian in the Cabinet. 5. Said Pasha, a moderate Young Turk. The present Sultan and Dolma Baghtch6 Palace 272 CONTENTS. - »<>« - - I. AUTOBIOGRAPHY. Childhood and Education. Conversion and Persecution. A Turkish Hymn. At the Mission-School, Broosa. Mar¬ riage. First Preaching at the Dardanelles. Persecution. Departure. Second Journey to Marsovan. Khans. At Marsovan. Call from Home. Adrianople. Constanti¬ nople. Contact with Baptists. Journey to America; On the Mediterranean ; At Paris ; On the Great Atlantic. In America. At Crozer Theological Seminary . 15 II. ARMENIA AND THE ARMENIAN CHURCH. Geography of the Country. A Brief Sketch of the History of the Nation. Present Political Condition. Character of the Nation. Armenian Language; Literature. A Short Sketch of the Armenian Church. Armenia Visited by the Gospel. St. Gregory Illuminator. The Bible in the Armenian Language. Doctrines and Usages of the Arme¬ nian Church. The Armenian Church Needs Reforma¬ tion . 36 III. PROTESTANT MISSIONARIES AMONG THE ARMENIANS, ETC. The First Step of the Reformation Taken by a Priest. The British and Russian Bible Societies. American Board. The Missionaries Begin to Preach. Opposition to the Missionaries. Persecution Against their Followers. A Heroic Priest. Recantation issued by the Patriarch at Constantinople. Anathema against the Protestants. The Effect of the Anathema. The First Evangelical Arme¬ nian Church at the Capital. Evangelical Brethren Recog¬ nized as a Separate Community by the Decree of the 12 CONTENTS. Sultan. Sketch of the Protestant Organization. The Imperial Firman. Missionary Statistics. Missions in the Levant. History and the Trials of Missions . 53 IV. TURKEY. The Geography and Climate of the Country. A Brief Sketch of Ottoman History. Mohammedanism a Uniting Power. The First Sultan of the Ottoman Empire. Genealogy of Ottoman Sultans. Obstacles . 73 V. THE GOVERNMENT. The Ministers of the Sublime Porte. The Imperial Court. The Idea of Citizenship is Foreign to the People. Supe¬ riority of the Mohammedans. Population. Rivalry between the Nationalities. Moslems. Greeks. Bulga¬ rians. The Jews. The Military System. Naval System. Finance. The Resources of the Empire. Railroads. Telegraph System. Postal System. Passport System. Prisons. Newspapers. Reform in the Government.. 83 VI. MOHAMMEDANISM. The Founder of Mohammedanism. The Knowledge of the True God Existed in Arabia before the Mohammedan Era. The Influence of Christianity at this Time. The Great Commission of Mohammed. Mohammed Acts the Part of a Prophet. His Flight from Mecca. The Doc¬ trines of Mohammedanism. Practical Duties. A Prayer. Mosques. The Mohammedan World. The Koran. Mo¬ hammedans’ Belief in the Christian Bible . 117 VII. CONSTANTINOPLE. Foundation of the Byzantine Empire. Constantinople the First Christian Capital. A Mohammedan Capital. Situation of Constantinople. Natural Beauty. St. Sophia. A Cosmo- CONTENTS. 13 politan City. The Sultan’s Public Prayer. The Bazaar. Fire. Dogs. Streets. Porters. Dervishes. Howling Dervishes. Turkish Baths . 132 VIII. SOCIAL LIFE. Engagement and Marriage among the Mohammedans. Polygamy. Armenian Engagements and Weddings. The Bride at her New Home. The Custom of Dowry. Bridal Slaves. Fasts and Festivals. Dresses and Ornaments. Houses. Haremlik and Selamlik. Parlor. House-clean¬ ing. How the Houses are Heated. Eating. Visiting. Hospitality. Education. The Ceremony of a Turkish Boy’s Reception at School. A Turkish Lady at the Feet of a Kiatib. Vintage and Wine-Press. Saloons _ 151 IX. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. Contrarieties; Taking off the Shoes. Proverbs. Salutation. The Manner of Advertising. Superstitions ; Baptizing of the Cross. Business Life; Bargains. Women Grinding at a Mill. The Birth of a Child and its Baptism. Names. Medicine. How the Village People Treat the Sick. Funerals. Cemeteries. Pilgrimage. Monasteries... 185 X. AMUSEMENTS. Story-Tellers. Oriental Stories. Hunting. Sleighing. Kite¬ flying. Djireed. Music. Dancing. Horse-racing. Sing¬ ing. Boat-racing. Wrestling. Karagoz. Card-playing, etc. Goose-fighting, etc . 212 XI. PRESENT STATE OF THE EASTERN CHURCH. I. Original Advantages of the Eastern Church. The Influ¬ ence of the Greek Language. The Eastern Church the Parent of Theology. Her Influence upon Reformation. The Immortal Names of the Eastern Church. 14 CONTENTS. II. Results which Flow from the Separation: i. Hastened the Fall of the Eastern Christian Empire. Constantinople Taken and Pillaged by the Western Church. 2. The Religious Character of the Eastern Church peculiar to itself. Description of the Greek Church. Of the Arme¬ nian Church. The Manner of Preaching by the Aremnian Bishop. Extracts from a Sermon of a Bishop. The Abyssinian Church. The Nestorian Church. Maronite, Jacobite, and Coptic Churches. 3. Her Theology and Christian Literature Greatly Influenced. Unable to Defend Christianity. “Method/’ the First Infidel Book Published in the Armenian Language. 4. The Eastern Churches Cease to be a Missionary Body. The Last Com¬ mission of Christ is Observed Literally. III. Rival Denominations of the Eastern Church. Present Relation. Rivalry among the Denominations. Future Relation. Triumphant Song of the United Church... 221 XII. THE CRESCENT AGAINST THE CROSS. The Truth about the Massacres. Described by Dr. Trow¬ bridge, the Missionary, and other Eye-witnesses. The List of the Native Pastors and Delegates who Lost their Lives. The Martyrs of Kharne. “Who is Responsible?” Punishment the Only Safeguard . 248 XIII. THE DAWN OF A NEW ERA. Many Social and Historical Changes. The Young Turkey Party. A Glance Backward. Midhat Pasha and the Constitution. Opposition. Opening of the Parliament. Plot to Re-establish the Old Regime. Revolution in the Capital. Gen. Shefket Pasha. Despotism and Abdul Hamid. Sultan Mohammed the Fifth. The Paramount Question. The New Sultan. His Democratic Ways. The Outlook . 266 LIFE IN THE ORIENT, i. A UTOBIOGRAPHY. “ I am a debtor both to the Greeks and the Barbarians, both to the wise and to the unwise.” PAUL. CHILDHOOD AND EDUCATION. 1 was born during the month of June, 1853, in Adrianople, European Turkey, and received my childhood training in that city. When I was six years old my parents put me in the National School. We had no summer vacation, so every afternoon I was obliged, with other pupils of the school, to sleep a few hours on the floor, according to the custom of that time. The teacher, stick in hand, used to walk around us and oblige us to go to sleep. I was fourteen years of age when I left the school. I learned in the school writing and the Arme¬ nian language and the four rules of arithmetic. Being the youngest of my father’s sons, he was very anxious to give me a better education. He 1 6 LIFE IN THE ORIENT. therefore put me under a Turkish Hoja (teacher) to teach me the Turkish language, both to read and to write it. I was about sixteen years of age when my father put me under a shoemaker. After a few years, my health being broken, I was obliged to change my business, and began to sell earthen crockery. CONVERSION AND PERSECUTION. I was about eighteen years of age when, for the first time, I went to hear a sermon from the Protestant preacher in the city. There was only one Armenian Protestant church. The pastor was absent. The pulpit was supplied by Mr. Rosen¬ berg, the missionary to the Jews. I was very much delighted with the sermon of the mission¬ ary. The prayers and the singing made a deep impression upon me, and I left the church having enjoyed the service very much. I continued to go every Sunday to the Protestant church after the service of the Armenian church. My father was a pious man, but very fanatical in religious matters. He called me one day and said to me, “ My son, I am told that you are going to the Protestant church. Is it so ?” “Yes, father,” I said, “but I am not going to be a Protestant. I wish to be a good Christian young man.” “No,” says he, “I was bom in the bosom of the Armenian church, I have lived about seventy years in her bosom, and I will die in her lap. I am not able to tolerate two religions in my house ; AUTOBIOGRAPHY. \J if yon go to the Protestant church do not come home any more.” After a few days father brought an Armenian priest to the house to persuade me not to go to the Protestant church. During our conversation with the priest my simple questions excited him, and he said to my father emphatically, “ Mr. Hagop Basmajian, your son is in a dan¬ gerous way. He is a Protestant, and his feet are accursed, so that where he treads the grass cannot spring up. If you allow him to stay with you, your home and business life will be destroyed.” I could not imagine at first the purport of his words. When I returned home next evening I saw my aged mother and the wife of my oldest brother in great trouble; their eyes were filled with tears. 1 8 LIFE IN THE ORIENT. in that moment. I took the trembling hand of my mother and wet it with my tears and kissed it, and spoke to her thus: “Oh! mother, dear mother, do not weep for your son. The Lord, whom I love, will protect me in all my present and future troubles in the world. I am his and he is mine. I am perfectly willing and ready to sacrifice everything for him who has sacrificed himself for me. Oh ! mother, dear mother, good- by, good-by; God be with you and me.” I left home. The tears which were flowing down my young cheeks were mingled with the tears of heavenly gratitude and rejoicing. Blessed be the name of our Lord Jesus Christ, who enabled me to resist all the temptations and tribulations that followed this step ! Persecution inspired my zeal and increased my faith. I was as firm as a rock upon the “ Rock of Ages.” When I left home I knew not where I should go. I was on the market street when I met brother Haji Hagop Borekjian ; he perceived my condition and asked me where I was going. I told him my story, and that I had no place to rest my head that night. He very kindly invited me to his house, and with many encouraging words and prayers wiped my tears away. The following is the translation of a Turkish hymn which I often used to sing in those days : I cannot see the way to go, It is dark and hid from me. Is it a plain and easy path Or rough and mountainous too ? AUTOBIOGRAPHY. *9 But is it not enough for me That my Lord and Saviour knows? What kind of water shall it be? Is it bitter as Mara ? I will joyfully drink it, Lord, Because it is given by thee. For is it not enough for me That my Lord and Saviour knows? I know not, my Lord. What of that ? It is all well known to thee, For from the bosom of thy love Flow thy many gifts to me. And is it not enough for me That my Lord and Saviour knows? My father was a good man, and I retained a supreme regard for him in all his persecutions against me. He was thoroughly under the influ¬ ence of the priest, whom he regarded as a messen¬ ger of God. The conduct of my father towards me was in perfect harmony with his conscience. My uncle was an enlightened gentleman ; after a few weeks he persuaded my father to let me re¬ turn home. Father, consenting to his persuasions and the paternal love conquering his fanaticism, invited me home, and his treatment towards me was very kind indeed to his dying hour. He died in the month of August, 1873. After my connection with the Congregational church I expressed my desire to become a min¬ ister of the gospel. The church accepted my re¬ quest, and proposed to the missionaries of the American Board that they accept me in their school. 20 LIFE IN THE ORIENT. AT THE MISSION SCHOOL, BROOSA. At the close of 1873 I went to Broosa, to the preparatory school, and after eleven months I re¬ turned home. Broosa is about sixty miles south from Constantinople, situated at the foot of Mt. Olympus, which rises over 7,000 feet towards the heavens. The summit of the mountain is cov¬ ered with snow during the whole year, and from it the people bring snow in the summer-time on the backs of donkeys and horses, to use for ice¬ cream and sherbets. The city having been the first capital of the Empire, and having the tombs built by the first sultans and other curiosities, many distinguished persons who visit Constan¬ tinople go to spend a few hours or days in this historic city. Broosa, after Constantinople, is one of the largest, most beautiful, and cleanest cities of Tur¬ key. Many of the streets are paved, with narrow sidewalks. The mineral waters, cold and hot, only a few miles distant from the city, are excel¬ lent, and to them many people from every part of the country resort for the restoration of their health. The population of the city is about 100,000. There are many mosques, and also Greek and Armenian churches. The Protestants have a church and an orphanage. Broosa is famed for its many silk manufactures and towels. After eleven months at Broosa I visited home. It was at the close of 1874 when I crossed the Black Sea and went to Marsovan in Asiatic AUTOBIOGRAPHY. 21 Turkey, to take a course in theology in the sem¬ inary under the control of the missionaries of the same Board. The seminary course was four years, divided into two departments, scientific and theo¬ logical. In 1876 I finished my course in the scien¬ tific department. The faculty, for reasons best known to themselves, closed the theological de¬ partment for a period of two years. I received an appointment as teacher in the scientific depart¬ ment, and remained there for eight months. At the close of the term I returned home and was married to Miss Antaram Bedros Voortootian, in Rodosto, a city in European Turkey, March 3, 1879. Mrs. Basmajian is a graduate of the girls’ seminary in Marsovan. FIRST PREACHING AT THE DARDANELLES. After our marriage we went to the Dardanelles, and I spent more than a year in preaching the gospel there. The Dardanelles has a population of about 10,000. It has a very important situation. It is the ancient Hellespont, the arm of the sea which divides Europe from Asia. It was across the Hellespont that Xerxes laid his bridge of boats for the passage of his million soldiers ; and from the heights on this shore he looked down upon them and wept to think that in a hundred years none of that great army would be living. The strait in some places is less than a half-mile wide and the defences are very strong, the forts being mounted with heavy Krupp guns. We found certain Protestant Armenians in the 22 LIFE IN THE ORIENT. Dardanelles, who used to come together to wor¬ ship in their own houses. The Evangelical Ar¬ menian Church at Rodosto used to send some of the brethren to preach here from time to time. Before our arrival at the Dardanelles the brethren had rented a house for us, and we set apart one large room for religious services. The Lord blessed our work, and many people came from week to week to hear the preaching of the gospel. It was very interesting to see also among the peo¬ ple Mohammedans and Mohammedan ladies veiled in their white laces. PERSECUTION. Our success in the work excited the jealousy of some of our fanatical neighbors, and they gave us very much trouble. They mocked at our prayer- meetings because they lacked ostentation and ceremony, and threatened to do us harm if we did not leave the house. One evening while I was reading the Scriptures in a prayer-meeting, a heavy stone broke the window and fell at my feet; it hurt no one. For a couple of months our fanatical neighbors continued stoning us, so that we were obliged, for our own protection, to close the shut¬ ters of all our windows after sunset every day. On St. Gregory’s day a mob gathered in front of the house to shed the blood of Protestants if we did not leave. Fortunately I was informed early, and put Mrs. Basmajian in the house of a brother, and went to tell the story to Mr. Melling, our esteemed friend, consul of Great Britain in the AUTOBIOGRAPHY. 23 Dardanelles. Mr. Melling sent word to the chief of the soldiers and secured his promise for our protection that night. A certain number of the brethren came to stay with me at my home. About six o’clock p. m. our house was sur¬ rounded by a great mob. The shouting of the men, the yelling of the women, the screaming of the children, and the falling of innumerable stones upon our house, filled our hearts with fear beyond description. The soldiers did not come in time and we were thoroughly unprotected before the violent mob. I said to the brethren, “Let us pray for divine pro¬ tection.” We all knelt down and prayed to God to keep us from harm, and give mercy to our per¬ secutors and soften their hearts. After our earn¬ est prayers, we heard the tread of the soldiers. The mob dispersed. Thanks be unto the Lord, we were saved! Mr. Melling defended our cause before the Gov¬ ernment. The kindness and hospitality shown by him and his family to me and Mrs. Basmajian dur¬ ing this trouble shall never be forgotten. We remained at the Dardanelles about fourteen months, and then I prepared to go to Marsovan to finish my theological course. My ministry, by the blessing of God, was very useful, not only to the brethren, but to all communities of the city, who learned That, though the Protestants were very few in number, they had the privilege like them to worship the Lord according to the dic¬ tates of their conscience. After our departure to 24 LIFE IN THE ORIENT. Marsovan the brethren organized a church under the auspices of the church at Rodosto. At the present time the brethren have a small chapel for their worship and a school for their children. DEPARTURE. The brethren were very sorry at our departure ; they prayed for our journey and our success in the seminary, and many of them in small boats escort¬ ed us to the steamship anchored in the harbor. We kissed them with the holy kiss and commend¬ ed them unto the care of the Good Shepherd and departed in tears. The steamer began to glide over the smooth water and up the winding strait of the Dardanelles, when we cast our eyes once more upon the city, remembering all the mercies and blessings of our Lord Jesus Christ upon our work, and waving our white handkerchiefs to the noble family of Mr. Melling and to the brethren until the city disappeared from our sight. We were on the Sea of Marmora. After twelve hours’ travel we arrived at the capital, Constantinople, and visited our friends and prepared ourselves for a long and tiresome journey to Marsovan. SECOND JOURNEY TO MARSOVAN. It was at the close of February, 1880, when we started from Constantinople to Samsoon ; we had to cross the Black Sea a second time. After two days we were at Samsoon, an important city on the Black Sea. From Samsoon to Marsovan is about 50 miles. It was not possible to start at AUTOBIOGRAPHY. 25 once. We had to wait for the caravan. In Amer¬ ica to take a journey is a pleasure, while in Tur¬ key it is anything but a pleasure. There was no railroad from Sam soon to Marsovan. Instead of railroads there are strong-headed horses, stubborn mules, patient donkeys, and slow camels. We were obliged to stay at Samsoon about ten days. Mr. and Mrs. Leonard, our former friends, mission¬ aries of the American Board at Marsovan, were in Samsoon during the winter. They were preparing to return to America. There being no comforta¬ ble lodgings in the city, our condition would have been very miserable if they had not cordially invi¬ ted us to their home to spend those ten days with them. The kindness and hospitality of Mr. and Mrs. Leonard will long be remembered. On the tenth day we left the comfortable home of our friends and took our places upon the backs of the mules. The ground beneath us was cov¬ ered with snow as well as the summits of the mountains through which we had to pass. There were with us two seminary students and other passengers, and about a hundred cam¬ els, horses, mules, and donkeys, loaded with rice, salt, wheat, and merchandise. It took seven days for us to travel the fifty miles to Marsovan. I do not know how many times we were thrown from the stubborn mules ; fortunately we were not seriously hurt. Our provisions being exhausted on the sixth day of our journey, we entered the city on the seventh day extremely fatigued and hungry. 26 LIFE IN THE ORIENT. KHANS. In Constantinople, Adrianople, Smyrna, and other great cities in Turkey there are comfortable hotels for travellers, but in small cities and towns hotels are seldom found. From Samsoon to Mar- sovan there are several khans, where all travellers, civilized or uncivilized, are obliged to spend the night. These khans are very miserable, filthy, gloomy, and extremely smoky. There is no sep¬ arate apartment for women. When the missiona¬ ries travel they divide the space into as many rooms as they need by hanging curtains. Where we spent one night there were a num¬ ber of mules and donkeys. In the winter-time the misery of the khans is beyond description. There is paper instead of glass in the windows. During the nights you will find the travellers sleeping, smoking, drinking coffee, singing, crying, quarrel¬ ling, and cursing each other. Every man does as he pleases, without taking into consideration the condition of his fellow-travellers. AT MARSOVAN. How glad and happy we were when we reached Marsovan and saw the faces of our friends ! We thanked God who had protected us in all our dan¬ gerous travelling. We remained at Marsovan two years and three months. During this time we were very happy indeed. Our joy was increased when the Lord gave us a beautiful son (James) on the third of ARMENIAN CHURCH CHOIR-BOYS. * ' AUTOBIOGRAPHY. 27 March, 1882. But his life was very short on earth. He lived only about eight months, and died Sep¬ tember 17, 1882. Our sorrow was extreme. The missionaries and their wives and the lady teachers of the mission school and all the students of the seminary showed us great sympathy and tried to comfort our saddened hearts. But the best com¬ fort came to our souls from above. We had the same assurance which David had, and could say, “We shall go to him, but he shall not return to us.’’ I was graduated May 5, 1882. The Evangelical Armenian church in Marso- van extended to me an invitation to become their pastor. At the same time a telegram was received from the missionaries in Constantinople calling me back to that city. Accordingly I declined the invitation of the church. Marsovan is one of the most important mis¬ sionary stations, having several missionaries con¬ nected with the schools. Anatolia College is a new institution, where many Armenian and Greek young men get their education. The population of the city is about 15,000, mostly Mohammedan. Armenians have there a church and school. Prot¬ estant Armenians will have in the near future the largest church building among the Protestants. Rev. Mr. Filian, the present pastor, is a graduate of Chicago Theological Seminary ; a very accom¬ plished gentleman. He visited the United States about two years ago to raise a fund for the erec¬ tion of a new and larger church for the accommo¬ dation of his growing congregation. The Lord 28 LIFE IN THE ORIENT. blessed his efforts and he raised $10,000 for the purpose. The Protestant community have their own private schools for the education of children of both sexes. Altogether I spent about six years in Marso- van. It was in Marsovan that the blossom of my life flourished. There I received my early train¬ ing for the ministry at the feet of American and Armenian Gamaliels. It was there that we en¬ joyed the sympathy and respect of the Evangeli¬ cal Church. It was there that I began to study the English language, which has helped me greatly in America. My heart is full of gratitude and respect towards the Faculty of the Marsovan Seminary. My prayer to God is that he will bless the sem¬ inary and all the efforts of the missionaries for the glory of our Saviour. FAREWELL TO MARSOVAN. At last the hour came for our departure to Constantinople. It was a fine day in March, 1883. We had with us Dr. Herrick, a professor of the seminary, and several students who were going to Constantinople. According to the custom, many people — missionaries, the girls from the seminary, and brethren and sisters from the city — escorted us out of the city. The farewell was very impres¬ sive. I saw tears in the eyes of many brethren. After a short but memorable prayer under a large tree we began to shake the hands of the brethren, then mounted our mules, cast a farewell glance at the faces of our friends, and departed. The weath- AUTOBIOGRAPHY. 29 er being fine, we arrived at Samsoon in three days and embarked on the Austrian steamer, and after two days we saw the charming shores of the Bos¬ phorus. CALL FROM HOME. We were at Constantinople when I accepted a call from Adrianople. The church was very glad at our return and welcomed us cordially. I en¬ tered upon my work and God blessed my labors abundantly. Every Sunday we had a full house, many of them being strangers. During my min¬ istry all the brethren were very kind to me and helped me very much. My right hand man was the deacon of the church, Mr. Hachadoor Kooroo- yan, whose love and sympathy to me and my fam¬ ily were very strong. After a year and a half of successful ministry in Adrianople I received a letter of invitation from the missionaries to go to Constantinople and take the charge of translating the missionary paper, Avedaper (Messenger). At first I declined to go, but finally I accepted the invitation. The breth¬ ren, seeing that I might do, perhaps, a much greater work in assisting in the publication of the paper, reluctantly accepted my resignation. It was during my ministry at Adrianople that God gave us a daughter, Mary, June 1, 1883. Before leaving Adrianople I wish to tell something about it. ADRIANOPLE. Adrianople is situated in a very fertile plain, at the confluence of three rivers, Maritza, Arda, and 30 LIFE IN THE ORIENT. Tounja. The city was the capital of the Ottoman Empire before the capture of Constantinople (1361-1453 A. D.). The population is estimated to be about 100,- 000, composed of Turks, Armenians, Greeks, Bul¬ garians, and Jews. There are also many European people. All the European Powers have their con¬ suls or representatives in the city. Adrianople is also the seat of the Greek archbishop and of Ar¬ menian and Bulgarian bishops. The city has very fine environments. Considering its beautiful site, its fertile neighborhood, its rivers, and its connection with Constantinople and Europe by railroads, its trade is very insignificant. The let¬ ters written to me by my friends describe the trade of the city as being deplorable. The city is surrounded by excellent vineyards. The wine is famous, and the best grapes of every kind are found in the city. For twenty-five cents you can buy fifteen pounds of fine white grapes, equal to those raised in California. Vegetables and fruits of every kind are cheap and accessible to every class of people. There are some silk, wool, and cotton manufactories. The cheese of Adrianople is well known and is the best in all the Turkish Empire. Adrianople was built by the Romans and called “The city of Adrian” — Adrianopolis. It is 130 miles northwest of Constantinople. The most prominent structures are the baths, the bazaar, the mosques, the old seraglio, the military academy, the barracks, about a mile and a half from the AUTOBIOGRAPHY. 31 city, and tlie stone bridges over the rivers. Some of the mosques are older than the mosques at Con¬ stantinople. The mosque of Sultan Selim is the pride of Adrianople. The dome of the mosque is higher than the dome of St. Sophia at Constanti¬ nople, and is guarded by four lofty and elegant minarets. The mosque is adorned by a portico with ancient columns of rare marble from the old Roman temples. There are about fifty mosques, two Armenian, fifteen Greek, four Bulgarian (or¬ thodox), and one Catholic Bulgarian churches, and thirteen Jewish synagogues. Adrianople, in many respects, is second only to Constantinople. Some very important treaties after the war between Turkey and Russia were signed here. AT CONSTANTINOPLE. I entered upon my new career in the beginning of 1884 as assistant editor to the Rev. H. S. Bar- num, meanwhile preaching on the Sabbath in the suburbs of Constantinople. The work was new to me. At first I had some difficulty, but my inter¬ est in the work was so great that I conquered it. The paper was considerably enlarged and its sub¬ scribers were increased. I am almost at a loss to say how greatly I was benefited by the work. I had the opportunity of seeing many valuable reli¬ gious and scientific papers published in America. Living at Constantinople, I came in contact also with the environments of the city, which inter¬ ested me very highly. 3* LIFE IN THE ORIENT. My office was at the Bible House in Constants nople proper, while my home was on the heights of Scutari. The situation of our home was mag¬ nificent. The gorgeous palaces of the Sultans, the charming sweeps of the Bosphorus, the hills of the city, embroidered with mosques and heaven-pier¬ cing minarets, and the crystal waters of the Mar¬ mora were in sight. It was on this charming hill of Scutari that the Lord gave us a son (Edward), September 17, 1885. CONTACT WITH BAPTISTS. While I was pursuing my work I came in con¬ tact with Baptists and joined their church. The Congregational missionaries expressed their sor¬ row to me at the change in my views, which in¬ volved a change in my relations to them. But I continued my work nearly six months, until they found another brother to put in my place. JOURNEY TO AMERICA. Having a desire to get a higher theological training and to see the United States, I made up my mind to come and bring my little family, so that they might also share the benefit of the New World. I sold my furniture and so collected money for our journey. It was on the 6th of Sep¬ tember, 1886, when, with my family, I embarked in a French steamer bound for Marseilles. What mortal pen can describe the feelings which overwhelmed me like the mighty surges of the sea when the steamer began to depart grace- AUTOBIOGRAPHY. 33 fully from the harbor! It was a departure from home, from beloved parents, and from many dear brethren, friends and relatives. It was departure from the Old World to the New, new life, new at¬ mosphere and environments. The thought which occupied my mind for a few moments was wheth¬ er we should ever again see the shores of the Old World which we were now leaving. I cast my eyes on the city, which never before seemed so charming and attractive. There on my right was the Bible House, and on the left our house. Amid these thoughts the beautiful scenery disappeared as the evening dropped her curtain over us. ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. We were on the Sea of Marmora. Next morn¬ ing the steamer cast her anchor before the Dar¬ danelles. It was a good opportunity to see the brethren and bid them good-by. Oh ! how sweet and how precious was the hour which we spent with them. Several of them came out to the steamer to see Mrs. Basmajian and our little chil¬ dren. They did not come empty-handed. Some of them brought crockery of the city, which is the best in Turkey, and others brought apples and grapes. After a stop of about two hours the steamer weighed her anchor and we sailed into the waters of the Mediterranean. The sea was very smooth, and we had a very pleasant time for five successive days. Having a full moon, we used to spend several hours of the night on the deck, instead of remaining in our state-rooms, enjoying life in the Orient. “2 34 LIFE IN THE ORIENT. the beautiful scenery. The steamer, under the canopy of the fair moon and brilliant stars, glided majestically along, and our hearts were filled with praise and gratitude to the Creator. AT PARIS. On the 1 2th of September we arrived at Mar¬ seilles. The steamship of the Transatlantic Com¬ pany was to sail from Havre to New York Septem¬ ber 1 8, 1 886. We had opportunity, therefore, to spend a few days in Marseilles and Paris. Mar¬ seilles is a great manufacturing city. The commo¬ dious harbor especially attracted our attention. We visited the splendid Zoological Garden and other places in the city. After two days we started for Paris. The magnificent buildings, the grand domes of the cathedrals, the regular and clean streets, the crowded market-places, the natural politeness of the inhabitants, finally the beauty and excellency of the city, left an impression upon our minds which we shall never forget. ON THE GREAT ATLANTIC. After a day and a half at Paris we left for Havre on Friday. Next day, Saturday, we took the French steamer “ La Gascogne,” and after an eight days’ trip we arrived at New York. Being for the first time on the great Atlantic, its great and high waves frightened us and made us very sick; but after a few days our voyage was very pleasant. AUTOBIOGRAPHY. 35 IN AMERICA. AT CROZER THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY. We left New York next day for Philadelphia, Pa. The following day we came to Chester, Pa., and I went to see Dr. Weston, the President of Crozer Theological Seminary, to whom I had a letter of recommendation. Next day Mrs. Dr. Weston, accompanied by Mrs. Dr. Johnson, came to the hotel in a carriage, and took us to our new home, in Upland. Mrs. Dr. Weston kindly fur¬ nished our home with necessary furniture, which we have used during our stay at the seminary. I remained about three years at the seminary, and was treated with respect by the Faculty and my seminary brethren. May the Lord bless the Crozer Theological Seminary ! I graduated June 12, 1889; and was ordained in Philadelphia, De¬ cember 14, 1890. 36 LIFE IN THE ORIENT. II. ARMENIA AND THE ARMENIAN CHURCH i “ Their nationality and their church can hardly fail to take an important part in determining the future of the East.” — Tozer. GEOGRAPHY OF THE COUNTRY. Armenia lies just south of the Caucasian Mountains, and between the Black and Caspian Seas. The more exact boundaries of the country are : on the north, the Caucasian Mountains and the Georgian Provinces; on the east, the Cas¬ pian Sea and Persia; on the south, Assyria and Mesopotamia; on the west, Asia Minor. The whole territory is a little larger than the State of Pennsylvania. The location of Eden, the home of our first parents, is a question among geographers. Arme¬ nians claim that Eden was in Armenia, and I do not think that there are reasonable objections to their claim. The general character of Armenia is moun¬ tainous; it is about 6,000 feet above the level of the sea. Here is the magnificent Ararat, (14,000 feet high) which was witness of one of the most remarkable events in the history of the world. The ark of Noah rested upon the dome of Ararat, which is the sentinel of Armenia. The eminent traveller Morier says : “ Nothing can be more ARMENIA AND THE ARMENIAN CHURCH. 37 beautiful than the shape, more awful than the height of Ararat. All surrounding mountains sink into insignificance when compared to it. It is perfect in all its parts, everything is in harmony, and renders it one of the sublimest objects in na¬ ture. From here descend the Acampis to the Black Sea, the Araxis to the Caspian Sea, and the Tigris and Euphrates to the Persian Gulf.” Ar¬ menian people are very boastful indeed that the first pages of the Bible cast light upon their na¬ tional history. 