Travel tips on travel trips, containing suggestions for real or imaginary journeys;
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RUDDICIv for The Travelogue Bureau 1914 THE TRAVELOGUE BUREAU CHICAGO Q i5o MAY -8 1914 * i Copyright: 1914: The Travelogue Bureau & Cl, AS 7 40.1 (j TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE General Suggestions 5 Into Morocco, the Land of Yesterday 6 A Pilgrimage to Fez, the Metropolis of the Moors 8 Through the Heart of the Moorish Empire 9 A Little Journey to the Cities of the Barbary Coast. 10 Oases of tfie Algerian Sahara, a Trip to the '‘Garden of Allah” 12 Southern Spain, Land of the Hidalgo and the Don. ... 13 To tfie Olympian Games in Athens 15 Grecian Tourneys by Caravan Around tfie Historic Pelo- ms PONNESUS l6 The Wonders of Thessaly, the Country of the Meteora 18 Egypt, the Land of the Pyramids and the Sphinx 19 To Southern Italy, the Land of Sunshine and Song. ... 21 Through Switzerland, the Playground of Europe 23 Round About Paris, or a Trip to the Ouaint Corners of the French Capital 2=; A Pilgrimage to Oberammergau, the Passion Play Vil- lage 27 Cycling Through Corsica, the Land of the Vendetta. The information for “Travel Tips on Travel Trips" has been furnished by Adelaide M. Wood, who has spent many years in actual travel and the study of travel information; the booklet has been planned and edited by Lilian S. Ruddick. We believe that the reader, as well as the traveler, will find much of pleasing interest and lasting value in the offered suggestions. THE PUBLISHERS. ' TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS General Suggestions What to Take with You. Some general suggestions as to the preparation for an “Around the World" journey may prove of interest. The traveler will wish to take just as little as pos- sible, because foreign countries seldom have a free checking sys- tem, and all baggage is therefore an extra expense. A small steamer trunk will slip under the berth on the steamer, and the baggage charge will not be excessive on the continental trains. A man will find a heavy suit very advisable, for it is cold at sea, even in the summer. A cravenette, a coat sweater, bathrobe and slippers, a second suit of dark material, and a tuxedo — although the latter may be eliminated — should be available. Negligee shirts of flannel or silk with soft collars and cuffs, and a cap that will stay on are a great comfort. Include two pairs of easy, well-fitting shoes and only enough linen and other items to last en route, as the wardrobe can be added to quite cheaply in most of the countries visited. A woman should have a couple of tailored suits, one that will withstand all kinds of weather, and the other of some light-weight material ; a sweater, cap and gloves ; a heavy veil ; an ulster ; kimono ; a one-piece dress of non-crushable material ; several plain, and at least two dressy shirt-waists ; a smart but simply trimmed hat, and the customary toilet and dress accessories. Little jewelry and aluminum or celluloid toilet articles instead of silver will be found advisable. Steamer rugs may be rented with the chair, from the deck steward, and need not be carried. Routes and Tickets. The routes to the various parts of the earth are numerous, and each has its advantages. Reliable infor- mation may be had from the railroad and steamship companies. In foreign countries there are usually three classes of railway travel — first, second and third, the second-class being quite gen- 6 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS erally patronized by foreigners. Arrangements should be made long enough in advance to assure the traveler the most desir- able accommodations. On board ship the nearer the center of the vessel your stateroom is, the less you will feel its motion. Outside rooms with windows or ports are lighter and better ventilated. Baggage. The average amount of baggage allowed on most steamship lines is 300 pounds, and all pieces should be tagged or labeled with the name of passenger, steamer, date of sailing, number of stateroom and whether “wanted" or “not wanted’' in stateroom. Trunks not over thirteen inches high, two and a half feet wide and four feet long will fit under the berths. In a few of the foreign countries baggage is carried free to a limited number of pounds, but as a rule the traveler will pay extra for everv bit of baggage that is not carried in the hands. The baggage rates are generally low, except off the “beaten path.” Tips. On shipboard the minimum fee to the table steward is $2.50, or ten shillings ; also to the stateroom steward. The deck steward and the stewardess will expect a minimum fee of $1.00, or four shillings. On the continent it is generally safe to adhere to the 10% ratio — 10% of the hotel bill, divided among those who serve you. Do not be inveigled into tipping any who have not in some way earned it. To guard the traveler who does not speak a foreign language from any extortion, various tourist companies abroad issue hotel coupons which are accepted as cash whenever presented at the places mentioned in these com- panies’ lists. Into Morocco, the Land of Yesterday In this twentieth century we find few countries where men have not changed their social, political and economic con- ditions to some degree of enterprise and progress. But in the Moors we see a people still embalmed in the superstition and restrictions of Islam as deeply as it was in 700 a.d. The intensity of their fanaticism is so great that the life of a Christian or a Jew is considered unsafe in some parts of the country. Their manners and customs remain much as they were a thousand years ago. This stagnation has been the reason for the lack of development of Morocco's natural resources. Its vast natural TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 7 resources were left almost untouched, its fertile soil lay fallow, and its industries were neglected. The Moors remained mediae- val because of their observance of the tenets of Mohammed. They even hold themselves somewhat aloof from other Mohammedan nations, because they are convinced that theirs is the only true interpretation of their prophet’s religion. In the last few years, however, Morocco, the land of the Moors, has been outwardly changing. Since the beginning of French dominion there has been much progress in the coast towns. There is but one regrettable feature of this civilizing process, that civilization means modernization and the destruction of those influences which combined to make Morocco unique among modern nations. The picturesqueness of barbarism must yield to the comfort and safety of civilization. Tangier. Tangier is the commercial city of Morocco. Here is established the head office of the Moroccan State Bank. As this city is easily reached by steamer from Gibraltar it is usually the only part of Morocco seen by the traveler with limited time at his command. It is quite cosmopolitan in character, and it is the place of exile, political or social, of many people who find its policy of “no questions asked” a comfortable one. Its streets and markets are fascinating and charm the traveler from other lands by their unusual features. Language. The language of the Moors is Berber, several dialects being used. On the plains and coast of Morocco Arabic is generally spoken. Of late years, since tourists have included Morocco in their itinerary, a mixture of many tongues is heard in the coast towns. Transportation. Steamship service is reasonably frequent between Tangier and the other ports of the world, though in many instances transhipment at Gibraltar is necessary. There are practically no railroads. A railroad twenty-four miles long was laid from Casablanca to Ber Reshid, and another short railroad connects the town of Melilla with some neighboring mines. These are of no benefit to tourists. The interior of the country remains practically as it was a thousand years ago. Goods are trans- ported by means of caravans, and there are not even the ordinary rest stations or caravansaries of other eastern countries to be found. Travelers have therefore to carry their own tents, food and any other conveniences desired — all goods to be carried on 8 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS the backs of pack animals. No roads and few bridges make progress through this “land of yesterday” somewhat difficult. In the mountainous regions a guard is necessary, as the interior is unsafe for foreigners. Passports. It is advisable for travelers to be provided with passports, which are always valuable for the purpose of identifica- tion and save their possessors from many petty annoyances. They are necessary in Morocco for traveling inland or for em- barking on board French steamers for Oran. Passports should be vised by the consuls of the countries to be visited. Hotels. For the first visit to this country it is wisest to patronize the hotels under European management. The food is usually prepared by a French chef, but native dishes can be obtained. It is necessary to be very careful in regard to the use of drinking water. The safest plan is to drink only the bottled waters. A Pilgrimage to Fez, the Metropolis of the Moors Arrangements. To anyone contemplating a trip into the interior of Morocco, a simple solution of the problem of trans- portation is to place the whole matter of arrangement in charge of a responsible guide. This man should be recommended by the manager of the hotel or a reliable tourist agency. He will provide everything necessary for the journey, mules for the traveler and his baggage, tents, food and the necessary servants. The guide will be prepared to meet every possible contingency, and will relieve the traveler of manv troubles. j Compensation. The price asked for service, if the bargain is made with a native, will be at least twice the sum finally agreed upon. If arrangements are made with a tourist agency of the best standing, the amount charged will be much lower. Difficulties. The tourist should remember the intense fanati- cism prevalent in Mohammedan countries, especially in Morocco, and avoid any action which will give cause for resentment on the part of the native. A little observation and consideration for the customs of the country visited will carry one through any difficult situation. Fez. This city, capital of the Moroccan Empire, is the prin- cipal distributing center of the country for European products. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 9 It is the starting point of caravans going south into the interior of Africa. The city dates from the eighth century and is a strong- hold of Islam. Articles of leather, rugs, silk, shawls and the “Fez” caps, or tarbush, worn by all Mohammedans, are here 'nade. Passports. In a country like Morocco the traveler will need his passport and any letters of introduction which he may be fortunate enough to secure. To travel into the interior it is necessary to secure special permission, and arrangements for the trip must be made through a Consul. Clothing. The clothing for the trip to Fez should be of the simplest description. The weather is generally warm and sunny, and while clothes of light weight are necessary, laundering facili- ties are absolutely lacking; hence elaborate gowns are sadly out of place. It is a good plan to carry a quantity of worn under- wear or lingerie and discard it when it is soiled. New outfits can be obtained from the fascinating shops upon the return to the coast towns. The traveler should remember that Fez is in the same latitude as Richmond, Virginia. During the hot season, white clothing is very cool and comfortable. The pith helmet, worn everywhere in tropical countries, is frequently seen in Morocco. A white umbrella with a green lining is a great pro- tection against the sun's heat. Through the Heart of the Moorish Empire An Adventurous Journey. For the adventurous one search- ing for the realization of his youthful dreams of the magnificence of the Moors, a journey through Morocco will be a mingling of delight and disillusionment. The greatest danger to the traveler is the intense hatred of the Moslem for the Christian. Caution should be observed to avoid unnecessary antagonism. I n conveniences. The traveler must be prepared for the lack of all comforts. If he can endure deprivations with a smile or a shrug, and simply say with the Moor — “It is written,” and take life as it comes to him day by day, he is indeed a good comrade and a good traveler. Roads. There are no roads or canals in Morocco, and no railroads of any convenience to the traveler. There are only trails for the caravans which traverse the country. Since the 10 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS occupation of northern Africa by the French, some effort is being made to build roads between Fez and the seaports, but the great obstacle is the Mohammedan prejudice against innovations. Accommodations. The traveler who plans a trip into the interior of Morocco is a dweller in his own tent. It is well, however, to claim the hospitality of the tribesmen met on the way, thus insuring the protection of the different kaids, whose sacred duty it is to guard the traveler against harm. Brigandage. The interior of Morocco is infested with roving bands of thieves, who take their toll of the villages, caravans, and the unprotected traveler. Unless accompanied by a guard the traveler will almost certainly suffer from their depredations. Currency. The great variety of currency used in Morocco makes it necessary for the traveler to have some knowledge of the monies of all nations as well as the “hassani,” or Moorish money. The rate of exchange fluctuates daily and sometimes hourly, but the American and English gold and the American dollar is always at a premium. Holidays. There are three Sabbaths in Morocco, the Moham- medan on Friday, the Jewish on Saturday, and the Christian on Sunday. Consequently, some of the shops of the towns, as they happen to belong to the respective followers of these three religions, are closed on three days of the week ; but there is no day on which all the shops are closed and business at a standstill. A Little Journey to the Cities of the Barbary Coast Algiers. To the tourist who has time to linger in his sight- seeing, Algiers will perhaps offer the greatest inducement. The climate is perfect, the situation of the city beautiful, and the city itself so modernized that every comfort is obtainable. Hotels. The hotels are numerous and excellent, with a moderate tariff, and are usually under the management of Europeans. They are furnished with all the conveniences. Small villas can be rented by those who are tempted to dwell a while in this lovely place. Bazaars. These are easily the objects of greatest attraction to the tourist. The wares displayed for sale fairly charm the money out of the pocket. The price asked for an article is usually two or three times the amount finally accepted. To many, TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 11 not the least part of the pleasure in buying is in the bargaining. Amusements. As Algiers is a miniature Paris, the social life of the city is distinguished by its gayety and by its cosmopolitan character. Letters of introduction are necessary for the stranger who desires recognition from the social colony of Algiers. Points of Interest. The city of Algiers, delightful as it may be, witll not satisfy the traveler who wishes to know more inti- mately the Barbary Coast. A westward trip to Oran may be planned, with stops at the Hammam Rirha hot springs, where the tourist will find an excellent hotel, and on to Tlemqen, which was at one time the proud capital of the Moorish kingdom. An eastward trip of unusual interest for scenery and tradition is to the Kabyle Mountains, about seventy miles east of Algiers. The trip to the foothills can be made by rail and stage to Fort National. In these mountains will be found the people who inhabited Algeria at the dawn of history. From Fort National, a military outpost, in the confines of which a little city has arisen, trips into the interior of this mountainous district, may be ar- ranged. Another eastward trip, which is about a day’s ride by rail from Algiers, is to Constantine, the Wonder-City, perched upon the cliffs that rise a thousand feet above the level of the plain. Railroads. The French have built wonderful highways through Algeria. They have created a railroad system traversing the northern part of the country, from the western boundary as far east as Tunis, and in addition are building southward into the desert. The railroads of Algeria are not yet equal to those of Europe, but they enable the tourist to travel in the manner to which he is accustomed, instead of by the primitive and slower methods of the native. Language. The natives are rapidly acquiring the French language. The shop-keepers are clever linguists who can drive a bargain in almost any tongue. Native Prejudice. It is well to call the attention of the traveler to the necessity of extreme caution in visiting the remoter and less frequented portions of Algeria, as hostility toward the Christian prevails here as elsewhere in Mohammedan countries. Women should not go unattended except on the most traveled streets of the cities, and then only in daylight. In visiting the Mosques the traveler is usually required to remove his shoes 12 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS before entering, but in some of the Mosques the visitor is pro- vided with large yellow slippers, which are to be tied on over the shoes. A small fee should he given to the man who ties them on, and also to the guide. Oftentimes the tender of a piece of silver to the doorkeeper ;proves most effectual in obtaining permission to enter. Money. The table below summarizes the coinage of Algeria, which is the same as that of France, and gives the equivalent values in United States money at the rate at $0,193 for one franc. It is simpler for the traveler mentally to consider the value of a franc $0.20; two francs $0.40; five francs $1.00. The monetary unit is the franc of 100 centimes. Copper Coins Silver Coins Gold Coins Paper Money Sou. or 5 c . . $0 . 00965 50c. $0.0965 5 f. $0,965 50 f. $ 9.65 1 f. •193 10 f. i-93 100 f. 19.30 2 sous or ioc .0193 2 f. .386 20 f. 3-86 500 f. 96.50 5 f. ■96s 1000 f. 193.00 Oases of the Algerian Sahara, a Trip to the “Garden of Allah” The Sahara. The desert has much the same charm for the traveler as the sea. It has long been the theme of song and story, and to see it is like looking upon the familiar face of a friend. He who has been once under the fascination of these wastes of shifting sand can never lose the desire to return. Transportation. Railroads and excellent highways take the traveler into the desert. But unless he has the added pleasure of a ride upon a real “ship of the desert/' the camel, he will feel defrauded of some of his impressions. The manner of mounting is somewhat trying to the novice. One easily gets into the saddle while the animal is kneeling, but when it rises complainingly to its feet the rider is thrown backward and then forward and must cling tightly to the high pommel to keep from making an igno- minious descent. The ground seems very far away, and the motion almost unendurable ; but it is possible to ride very com- fortably if the body is relaxed and allowed to yield to the swing- ing stride of the animal. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 13 Protection from the San . In long rides under the African sun it is imperative that sufficient protection be given the head, A voluminous dust cloak, dark glasses and a heavy veil are necessary. Cold cream as a cleanser for the face is suggested, as water is always hard to obtain and the opportunities for its use are few. Points of Interest. The traveler to the Algerian Sahara will find that through the perseverance of the French engineers a road has been perfected through the defile which pierces the chain of the Atlas mountains, and the glorious pages of Nature as revealed in the trip through the Gorges of Chabet may now be enjoyed without danger or discomfort. This trip may be taken overland by stage from Bougie, a port on the coast of Barbary, or by railroad. Beyond the gorge are the ruins of Timgad, the African Pompeii, and a little further on the borderland town of Biskra, “The Mecca of the Moslem and Christian nomad.” Before leav- ing Bougie travelers who desire to penetrate the desert and visit some of the interesting oases should make careful inquiries as to placing all arrangements for the desert trip in the hands of a reliable guide, recommended by the hotel or a tourist agency, as the guide will provide the necessary equipment and will be ready for every emergency. Southern Spain, Land of the Hidalgo and the Don Gibraltar. This town of about 20,000 is the port through which the ocean traveler enters southern Spain. The Rock, as the English proudly term Gibraltar, guards the entrance way to the Mediterranean and the lands beyond, and in ancient time was one of the two rocks known as the pillars of Hercules. The town has a motley population of Spaniards, Italians and Jews, beside a garrison of five thousand English soldiers. Cabs are always stationed in the space just beyond the custom house. The cab tariff is moderate and many of the cabmen speak a little English. After a short drive about the city, visiting the Alameda Gardens and passing other points of interest, the tourist should go to the entrance to the lower galleries of the fortress. From this point the visitor must proceed on foot. Cameras must be left at the guard house. These remarkable galleries were cut through solid 14 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS rock by the different owners of this mighty fortress, and through the apertures made for the cannon, and screened on the outside hy shrubs and vines, wonderful views of the harbor and the lower rock can be obtained. The cannon guarding these lower galleries are old. The modern and effectual weapons of warfare are higher up and are not accessible to visitors. Shops. The shops of Gibraltar are excellent. Beautiful laces, shawls, embroideries and articles of sandalwood and Toledo work can here be purchased for very little. It is not always advisable to pay the first price asked for an article, as a little bargaining may bring a substantial reduction. The merchants invariably speak English. Landing and Embarkation Fees. The expenses of landing, and in some cases of embarking, are borne by the passenger. Various tourist companies issue tickets for this purpose, and they prove a great convenience to the traveler. They provide at a very low rate for the landing or the embarkation of the pas- senger, with a reasonable amount of baggage. Passports. It is advisable for travelers to be provided with passports. The vise of a Spanish consul is not necessary, but will be found useful in traveling in provincial towns and country districts, as the tourist often needs some means of identification. Customs. It is necessary for passengers to be present at the examination of their baggage and hand their keys to the inspect- ing officer, and it well pays to be civil and obliging. In landing at Gibraltar it is to be remembered that tobacco and wines are dutiable, also preserved fruits or any article containing sugar. Railroads. Leaving Gibraltar the tourist crosses the bay to Algeciras, Spain, where the Spanish railway has its terminus. Here he boards the train for the interesting points in southern Spain, amongst which should be included a visit to Ronda, the cliff-perched and beautifully picturesque city of this land of sunshine ; Seville with its wonderful old Cathedral and Giralda Tower, its Plaza de Torros, where the famous bull fights may be witnessed at certain seasons, its great tobacco industry and interesting shops, and Granada with its visions of oriental splen- dor and its famous old Moorish palace, the Alhambra. Baggage. Baggage to the amount of 66 pounds is carried free on railroads in Spain. A passenger cannot claim more room for his hand baggage than is comprised in the space under TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 15 his seat or in the netting over his head. All baggage should be of such a character that it can be quickly and easily opened for customs’ inspection. Insurance on all luggage is strongly recom- mended. This covers all risks of loss while traveling by land or sea, including loss by fire or theft, and while stopping at hotels. The rates are very low and the possession of insurance a pro- tection. Money of Spain. English money is used in Gibraltar, but across the frontier only Spanish money is taken. The bronze 5 and 10 centesimos nearly equal in value 1 and 2 cents American money. The silver pieces are the 50 centesimos, about 9 cents ; the peseta, 19 cents, and the 4 peseta-piece, equal to 76 cents. In gold there are the 20 peseta, value $3.84; and the 23 peseta worth $4.80. To the Olympian Games in Athens On the Way. It is necessary to know something of Italy as well as Greece in following the Travelogue itinerary to the Olympian Games, as the traveler will land in Naples and embark at Brindisi. Customs. New wearing apparel, silk, lace, embroideries, tea, tobacco, liqueurs, perfumery, and sweetmeats are dutiable in Italy. If the traveler is courteous and obliging, little difficulty will be had in passing the articles purchased for personal use. Passports. Travelers are liable to be called upon at any time to establish their identity, and in claiming mail or registered bag- gage a passport is frequently necessary. Railways. There is a choice of routes from Naples to Brindisi. One route starts south from Naples, through Pompeii and Salerno, giving through service to Brindisi, a journey of 240 miles. The other route takes the traveler northeast through Caserta, Benevento, and Foggia to Brindisi, a distance of 270 miles. No baggage is carried free of charge on the railways in Italv. •/ Postal Arrangements. Mail directed in the care of a reliable tourist agency or a bank will insure its receipt. Travelers are advised to see that letters or parcels sent by them are weighed and properly stamped. Mail matter not fully prepaid is subject to an extra charge above the normal rate. 16 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS From Italy to Greece. From Brindisi to Patras, a distance of 251 miles, the traveler may travel very comfortably by one of several lines making weekly sailings. The boats are electric lighted and furnished with two-, three- and four-berth cabins. The train for Athens awaits the arrival of the boat at Patras, on the Gulf of Corinth. Hotels in Greece . A distinct understanding must be had of the bargain made with the hotel keeper as to the price to be paid for rooms and meals. Overcharges are frequent and only those familiar with the language will succeed in reducing bills to proper proportions. Precaution. Greece, like many of the European countries, is infested with fleas, as well as other varieties of vermin, and a package of insect powder should be included among the articles carried. Clothing. The difference in temperature between sunshine and shade is very marked even in the winter time. A warm wrap is quite necessary when sitting out of doors in boat or carriage, or in the evening. Strong boots should be included for the rough walking. Dark glasses are advisable and may be purchased much more cheaply on the continent than in Greece. A wide brimmed hat with a scarf or “puggaree” will protect the head and neck from the intense heat of the sun. Olympian Games. The original Athenian Stadium was laid out 330 years before Christ. About 500 years later a Roman citizen erected a stadium of marble, and in 1896 this was restored according to the ancient plans. Here were held the first of the modern Olympian Games. Past the entrance runs the road from Marathon. From the upper tiers of the Stadium may be seen the Bay of Salamis and the Acropolis of old Athens. Grecian Journeys by Caravan Around the Historic Peloponnesus Piraeus. Piraeus, the port of Athens, is five and one-half miles from Athens, with frequent train service between the two points. Boats. In hiring small boats for short trips about the harbor, the tariff must be agreed upon before starting, otherwise an exorbitant fee may be levied en route. TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 17 Canal of Corinth. This canal extends between Posidonia on the Gulf of Corinth and Isthmia on the Aegean Gulf. It is 20,000 feet long, 26 feet deep, and about 70 feet broad. It is crossed by one railway bridge 14 1 feet above the surface of the canal. The canal being fitted with electric light is navigable by night as well as by day. The average passage is made in thirty minutes. Railways of Greece. There are about a thousand miles of railway open to traffic. The cars are fairly comfortable and are first- and second-class. Greek railway time is thirty-five minutes in advance of Central Europe railway time. No general time- table is furnished. A list of trains may be obtained at the rail- road stations. Travel by railroad is supplemented by carriages and the mule trains which are used for the mountain trails. Arrangements for journeys off the lines of railways should be made with an accredited guide who will assume all responsibility. Passports in Greece. There are no special regulations in force regarding passports except for persons entering the country by way of the land frontier. A properly vised passport is invariably a means of convenience and safety, and the traveler will find it advisable to carry one. Route to Olympia. There is a choice of routes from Athens to Olympia. The first takes the traveler from Athens to Patras, then south from Patras to Olympia; the second from Athens south through Nauplia to Kalamata, thence north to Olympia. Greek Calendar. The Greek calendar or Old Style is thirteen days later than the New Style calendar; for example, January 1 in the Greek calendar is January 14 in the New Style. Money. The monetary unit is the drachma of 100 lepta. The circulating medium of Greece consists principally of paper. Notes are issued for 5, 10, 25, 100 drachma and upwards. Copper coins are the 5 and 10 lepta; nickel coins are 5, 10, and 20. The rate of exchange varies greatly, but the drachma, like the French franc, is worth approximately $0,193 in United States or Canadian gold. English gold is always at premium at the banks. Cameras. There is no difficulty in regard to photographing in Italy or Greece, providing the camera is not used in the vicinity of fortifications. Films are more convenient to carry than plates and the tourist will find places in almost every town of any size where new films can be purchased and the exposed 18 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS ones developed. It is best to buy a special film that is prepared for use in warm climates. The Wonders of Thessaly, the Country of the Meteora Steamships. Volo, the chief port of Thessaly, is reached by the ships of the Hellenic Steam Navigation John MacDowall line, sailing at stated intervals from Piraeus. The voyage lasts about twenty-four hours. Railways. The journey from Volo to Kalabaka, a distance of ioi miles, is made by rail. Kalabaka is the point from which the traveler proceeds by caravan to the ancient monasteries of the heights. It is advisable to place the management of trips of this nature in the hands of a reliable guide and allow him to take all responsibility for the arrangements. Velestino. This is a little town, of about 1,600 people, on the site of the ancient Pherae, where tradition says that Apollo tended the flocks of King Admetus. The tourist must change cars at Velestino for Trikkala and Kalabaka. Duties of the Guide. The agreement between the traveler and the guide who is to conduct him into the interior of the country is called a “symphonHC This agreement should be made with an appearance of leisurely indifference on the part of the traveler. Contracts formally drawn up and signed by both parties are sometimes used, but if the guide is well recommended verbal arrangements generally prove just as satisfactory. The price averages from forty to fifty francs a day for each member of the party. The duties of the guide begin when the party leaves the hotel, and end upon the return, or the arrival at an agreed destination. The guide pays all railway, steamboat or carriage fares, hires the saddle and pack horses, provides all meals, secures accommodation for the night, and is responsible for the comfort of the persons under his care. In case of a journey demanding such service, he must provide a good mattress and suitable bed- clothing 'for each member of the party. In the event of the traveler ending his tour at a distance from the home of the courier no additional compensation is necessary. A small gra- tuity, however, is generally added. Half the sum agreed upon is TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS 19 customarily paid in advance to enable the guide to purchase food and supplies. The other half .should be retained until the com- pletion of the journey. The Monasteries. A visit to the most important monasteries of the Meteora may be made in about five hours. At the Hagios Stephanos, accommodation for the night may he had. Food is supplied the traveler unasked, hut compensation should he offered and is invariably accepted. Vale of Tempo. This historic spot lies at some distance by carriage from the railway terminal Larissa, which is easily ac- cessible by rail from Volo, a distance of thirty-eight miles. Egypt, the Land of the Pyramids and the Sphinx The Ports of Egypt. The traveler from America or Europe enters Egypt through one of her two northern ports, Alexandria or Port Said. Alexandria, a flourishing city since England’s protectorate gave new impetus to its commerce, is situated on the Nile delta. Port Said, which owes its existence to the Suez Canal, lies near the eastern boundary and at the entrance to the canal. At Alexandria the passenger lands at the dock; but at Port Said he is taken ashore in a tender. Cairo being the ob- jective point, the traveler loses no time in boarding the train which will carry him over the intervening miles to one of the most fascinating cities of all the world. Raihvays. The railway service of Egypt is fairly comfortable. The cars are small and patterned after the English railway car- riage. The dust is almost unbearable, and the windows, as well as the heavy wooden shutters which are necessary to exclude the sun, usually have to be closed. In leaving the compartment to go to the dining car be sure to have the guard lock the door upon your hand baggage, and securely fasten the windows, to prevent any loss from theft. A small tip to the guard will insure atten- tion. At various stations fruits of different kinds will be offered to the traveler. It is safe to buy anything whose outer covering can be removed, thus assuring absolute cleanliness within. It is not advisable to buy the beverages offered for sale unless in sealed bottles with an European label intact. A fly brush is usually the first purchase made by the tourist, as flies are still one of the plagues of Egypt. 20 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TRAVEL TRIPS Cairo. This city with its oriental environment, mosques, bazaars, shops, and luxurious hotels is undoubtedly fascinating. Commanding a superb view, and situated about 250 feet above the town’s level, stands the Citadel. Directly below the over- hanging cliff the city itself spreads out. The Museum of Egyptian Antiquities houses a wonderful collection of mummies, statues and other specimens of the arts of the ancient Egyptians. The bazaars, the best of which are located on the Mouski, in old Cairo, are of great interest to the tourist. Here are found the Egyptian and Turkish work in gold and silver, sweetmeats, embroideries, rugs and other wares. Language. Arabic is the language of the people, but so cos- mopolitan is the tide of travel through Egypt that all languages are heard and interpreters are always available. Dragomen. A list of guides licensed by the government can be found at the offices of the hotels. It is well to make use of the services of a dragoman for sightseeing or shopping as he can save the tourist's time and avert many unpleasant experiences. Up the Nile. The traveler who wishes to go up the Nile will find a sufficient variety of transportation to gratify almost any demand. The quickest way is by rail, but to go by rail is to miss the whole charm of the trip. The slowest way is to sail up, in a Nile boat called a “dahabiyeh," but this way is very costly, both in time and money. The simplest and in many ways the most satis factorv way is to take one of the regular tourist steamers which make the trip to the second cataract and back to Cairo in about three weeks. Among the many points of interest are the site of ancient Memphis, the tombs and grottoes near Beni-Has- san, the ruins of Karnak, the temple and town of Luxor, and the Sphinx and the Pyramids at the edge of the Libyan Desert. Money. The money and coinage of Egypt will be found remarkably simple and practical, the decimal system being used. The monetary unit is the piastre of 10 milliemes, which is worth five cents in United States money. There are ^4 and /4 millieme pieces of copper, 1, 2, 5 milliemes of nickel, 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 piastres of silver, and 50 and 100 piastres of gold. Notes of 50 piastres, one pound Egyptian, 5, 10, 50 and 100 pounds Egyptian are issued bv the National Bank. English sovereigns are current at 97^4 piastres; English bank notes are subject to a varying exchange. 