None
It may be stated that the "extracts" can be cheapened by the use of weaker pomades or inferior oils, or of a tinc- ture of musk of one-half the strength given, by the substitution of civet for the ambergris, by the addition of larger proportions of alcohol and of some wa- ter, etc. Acacia Extract. Essence of cassie fl.oz. 4 Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.oz. 2 Tincture of vanilla fl.dr. 12 Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. 4 Alcohol fl.oz. Sy2 Alisma Extract. Essence of rose fl.oz. 3^2 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 3^ Essence of violet.. fl.oz. sl/2 Essence of jonquille fl.oz. 3x/2 Tincture of ambergris fl.oz. 1 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Ambergris Extract. Compound spirit of rose. . .fl.oz. 3 Tincture of ambergris fl.oz. 8 Tincture of musk.... fl.oz. 4 Tincture of vanilla fl.oz. 1 Azalea Extract. Vanillin dr. 3 Heliotropin m. 25 Oil of neroli, synthetic m. 25 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Essence of rose fl.oz. 10 Essence of violet fl.oz. 10 Essence of tuberose ...fl.oz. 10 Gum benzoin, Siam av.oz. 2 Alcohol fl.oz. 4 Mix, macerate for a week or two, agitating frequently, and filter. The benzoin should be freshly pow- dered. Cherry Blossom Extract. Aubepine drops 3 to 10 Anethol drops 1 Oil of bitter almond m. 15 Oil of fennel m. 15 Oil of bergamot m. 15 Oil of neroli m. 75 Acetic ether m. 45 Vanillin gr. 30 Cumarin gr. 5 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 6 Tincture of Siam benzoin, .fl.oz. 2j4 Tincture of orris, stronger, .fl.oz. 8 Essence of rose (3rd wash- ing) fl.oz. 15 Alcohol fl.oz. 4 Clove Pink Extract. Essence of rose fl.oz. 6 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 4 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 4 Tincture of vanilla...-. fl.oz. 2 Oil of clove, Bourbon drops 10 Clover (Japan) Extract. Essence of cassie fl.oz. 10 Spirit of rose fl.oz. 4 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 3^ Tincture of artificial musk.. fl.oz. 4 Solution of ionone, 10% fl.dr. 3 Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 2 Oil of petitgrain fl.dr. 1 Oil of clove fl.dr. 1 Cumarin gr. 20 Alcohol fl.oz. 13 Cosmos Bouquet Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.dr. 6 Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 3 Oil of lemon .drops 15 Oil of lavender, Mitcham. .drops 9 Oil of clove, Bourbon drops 3 Cumarin gr. 3 Heliotropin gr. l/2 Tincture of civet fl.dr. il/2 Weaker tincture of orris. . .fl.oz. 15 Mix and dissolve. Crab-Apple Flowers Extract. Essence of violet ..fl.oz. 4 Essence of rose ..fl.oz. 2 Essence of jasmine ..fl.oz. 1 Essence of cassie ..fl.oz. 1 Spirit of ylang ylang ..fl.dr. 6/2 Spirit of linaloe ..fl.oz. iV2 Spirit of neroli ..fl.dr. 2V2 Compound spirit of rose ..fl.dr. 4 Spirit of hyacinth ..fl.dr. 2 Tincture of musk ..fl.dr. I Oil of mace, volatile .drops 4 Alcohol ..fl.oz. I Essence of jasmine, washing, to make. second fl.oz. 16 II. Oil of rosewood m. Oil of ylang ylang m. Oil of sandalwood m. Amyl acetate m. Apple ether fl.oz. 30 7o 100 20 I PERFUMES. 901 Essence of rose Essence of cassie Essence of jasmine... ...fl.oz. 4  .. Essence of tuberose Spirit of rose Tincture of civet.. Tincture of musk. Oil of ylang ylang. Oil of neroli Alcohol The oils may be the natural or the synthetic. Cupid's Kiss Extract. Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 4^2 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 4^2 Spirit of rose fl.oz. 3V2 Tincture of civet fl.oz. 1 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 4. Spirit of ylang: ylang fl.dr. 2 Cumarin gr. 6 Vanillin gr. 3 Alcohol fl.oz. 2 Egyptian Lotus Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. z% Essence of rose fl.dr. 3 Tincture of vanilla fl.oz. 2 Tincture of civet fl.oz. 2T/2 Tincture of Siam benzoin. ..fl.dr. 5 Spirit of neroli fl.dr. 7 Spirit of clove fl.dr. sxA Spirit of patchouly. fl.dr. 1 Oil o-f rose drop 1 Alcohol fl.oz. 6l/2 Elder Elower Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 2 Essence of rose fl.oz. 2 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 2 Essence of jonquille fl.oz. 2 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 2 Spirit of ylang ylang fl.oz. 5 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 4 Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. 2 Terpineol gr. 60 Mix and dissolve. Essence Bouquet Extract. I. Compound spirit of rose fl.oz. 8 Spirit of lemon fl.oz. 2Y2 Spirit of bergamot fl.oz. 1 Spirit of neroli fl.oz. 1 Tincture of ambergris fl.oz. 1 Stronger tincture of orris fl.oz. 1 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 1 Alcohol fl-dr. 4 II. Essence of rose .fl.oz. 8 Tincture of orris fl.oz. 4 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Oil of rose m. 15 Oil of neroli m. 15 Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 4 Oil of lemon fl.dr. 2 Rose water sufficient As much of the latter may be added as is possible without causing precipi- tation. 4 4 15 15 15 15 2 2 24 III. Vanillin gr Nerolin gr Oil of cedarwood m Oil of rosemary m Oil of clove m Oil of lavender flowers m Oil of lemon fl.dr Oil of bergamot fl.dr Alcohol fl.oz Mix, allow to stand for 6 days, agitat- ing frequently, and filter. It may be diluted with 18 fluidounces of distilled water. It is said to make a good but cheap perfume. Esterhazy Bouquet Extract. Essence of orange flowers, .fl.dr. 2^ 2 1 3 3 4 2 3lA 2 1 2 5 Spirit of vetivert ....fl.oz. Spirit of rose ...fl.dr. Spirit of rose geranium. ...fl.dr. Spirit of neroli ...fl.dr. Spirit of sandal ...fl.dr. Spirit of clove ...fl.dr. Tincture of tonka ...fl.oz. Tincture of vanilla ...fl.oz. Stronger tincture of orris ..fl.oz. Tincture of ambergris... ...fl.dr. Alcohol ...fl.oz. Evening Primrose Extract. Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. Essence of rose Essence of jasmine Compound spirit of rose. Spirit of rose geranium.. Spirit of ambrette Spirit of patchouly Tincture of Siam benzoin Tincture of musk .fl.oz. .fl.oz. .fl.oz. .fl.dr. .fl.dr. . . . m. .fl.dr. .fl.dr. 3 2 2 5 10 4 80 4 1 [2 Alcohol fl.dr. Fashion Bouquet Extract. Oil of neroli m. 30 Oil of rose m. 45 Spirit of bergamot ....fl.oz. 1 Stronger tincture of orris.. fl.oz. 1 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 6 002 THE STANDARD FORMULARY Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 8 Benzoic acid, sublimed gr. 30 Alcohol, to make fl.oz. 16 Fleur de Lys Extract. Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 7 Essence of rose fl.oz. 2 Essence of violet fl.oz. 2 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. I Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 1 Tincture of vanilla fl.oz. 2 Tincture of civet fl.oz. 1 Floral Jewel Extract. ..fl.oz. zVz ..fl.oz. 9 ..fl.oz. 9 ..fl.oz. 1 ..fl.dr. 4 ..fl.dr. 2 Spirit of rose Essence of tuberose.. Essence of violet. . .. Tincture of musk. . .. Oil of bergamot Oil of cedrat Oil of neroli portugal fl.dr. 2 Heliotropin gr. 30 Alcohol fl.oz. SlA Florida Lotus Extract. Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 6 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 3 Essence of rose fl.oz. 2 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 1 Tincture of civet fl.oz. 1 Oil of linaloe m. 45 Oil of vlang ylang m. 30 Vanillin gr. 12 Heliotropin gr. 5 Alcohol fl.oz. 1 Flowers of Ireland Extract (Flowers of Erin). White rose extract fl.oz. 15 Tincture of vanilla fl.dr. 12 Flower of Seville Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 3 Essence of rose fl.oz. 3 Essence of violet fl.oz. 3 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 3 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 4 Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. 3 Vanillin gr. 10 Alcohol fl.oz. V/2. Forget-Me-Not Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 12 Essence of rose fl.oz. 8 Essence of violet fl.oz. 4 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 3 Tincture of civet fl.oz. 2 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 6 Oil of rose, natural or synthetic fl.dr. I Oil of bergamot m. 30 Oil of cedarwood m. 30 II. Frangipanni Extract. Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 2^2 Spirit of sandal fl.oz. 4 Spirit of neroli fl.oz. 2 Spirit of rose fl.oz. 1 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 3 Tincture of tonka fl.dr. 11 Alcohol fl.oz. 3l/2 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 5 Tincture of civet fl.dr. 4 Stronger tincture of orris. . .fl.oz. 3 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 3 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 3 Spirit of vetivert fl.oz. 1 Oil of rose fl.dr. 2 Oil of rose geranium fl.dr. 1 Oil of sandal fl.dr. 1 Oil of neroli fl.dr. 1 III. Oil of sandalwood m. 15 Oil of cedarwood m. 75 Oil of rose, synthetic m. 75 Oil of cassie, synthetic fl.dr. 2 Cumarin gr. 20 Heliotropin dr. 2j^ Tincture of artificial musk.. fl.oz. il/2 Alcohol, to make fl.oz. 32 V. Vanillin gr. 8 Oil of bergamot m. 30 Oil of rose geranium m. 30 Oil of rose, synthetic fl.dr. 1 Oil of sandalwood fl.dr. 1 Oil of neroli fl.dr. 1 Solution of artificial musk 1% fl.dr. 4 Tincture of orris, stronger, .fl.oz. 4 Alcohol, No. 2 fl.oz. 23 Cinnamon water fl.oz. 2 Orange flower water fl.oz. 2 Dissolve the oils, vanillin, and solu- tion in the alcohol, and add the waters. Frangipanni (Roman) Extract. Musk gr. 12 Ambergris gr. 3 Vanilla, cut fine and tritur- ated dr. 1 Tonka, bruised dr. 2 Essence of cassie fl.dr. 2 Essence of rose fl.dr. 2 Essence of orange flowers. fl.dr. 2 Essence of tuberose fl.dr. 2 Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.oz. 2^2 Oil of rose drops 22 Oil of cedar, Lebanon. .. .drops 22 Oil of rose geranium. .. .drops 10 PERFUMES. 903 Oil of neroli petale drops 12 Oil of orange (from bitter orange peel) drops 3 Alcohol fl.oz. 14 Mix and macerate for several months, agitating occasionally. Harvest Queen Extract. Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 2 Essence of rose fl.oz. 2 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 2 Essence of reseda fl.oz. 1 Tincture of tonka fl.oz. 2 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Spirit' of rose geranium fl.oz. il/2 Cumarin gr. 30 Alcohol fl.oz. 2l/2 Hawthorn Blossom Extract. Essence of violet , Essence of orange flowers, Essence of cassie , Essence of jasmine Essence of rose Tincture of tolu Tincture of tonka Tincture of vanilla Tincture of musk Tincture of ambergris Aubepine .fl.oz. 3T/2 .fl.oz. 3/2 .fl.dr. 14 .fl.dr. H .fl.dr. 14 .fl.oz. 1 .fl.dr. 7 .fl.dr. 7 .fl.dr. 4 .fl.dr. 3 .fl.dr. 2 Heliotrope Extract. Tincture of vanilla fl.oz. 8 Tincture of ambergris fl.oz. 1 Tincture of civet fl.oz. 1 Compound spirit of rose fl.oz. 3 Oil of bitter almond drops 5 Essence of rose....". fl.oz. 3 II. Spirit of bergamot fl.oz. 6 Tincture of Siam benzoin. .. .m. 30 Vanillin ., . . gr. 2 Heliotropin gr. 10 Alcohol fl.oz. 9 Mix and dissolve. III. Heliotropin fl.dr. 5 Cumarin gr. Vanillin gr. Tincture of Siam benzoin, .fl.oz. Tincture of civet fl.oz. Essence of tuberose fl.oz. Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. Essence of rose fl.oz. Alcohol fl.oz. 40 2 1 1/2 2V2 2XA 6 6 12H Heliotrope (White) Extract. I. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 4 Essence of rose fl.oz. 2 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 2 Spirit of ylang ylang fl.dr. 6l/2 Tincture of civet fl.dr. 6 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 1 Heliotropin gr. 50 Cumarin gr. 20 Alcohol, to make fl.oz. 16 Mix and dissolve. II. Heliotropin m. 75 Oil of clove drop 1 Cumarin gr. 15 Oil of jasmine fl.dr. 2 Alcohol, No. 2 fl.oz. 32 Hesperis Extract. Essence of cassie fl.oz. 3 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 3 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 4 Tincture of Siam benzoin. . .fl.oz. 2 Tincture of tonka fl.dr. $y2 Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 2 Oil of clove fl.dr. 1 Spirit of lavender fl.oz. 2x/2 Spirit of rose fl.dr. 4' Rose water ". fl.dr. 4 Alcohol, to make fl.oz. 16 Honeymoon Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 3^2 Essence of rose fl.oz. 3l/2 Essence of violet fl.oz. 3 Spirit of ylang ylang fl.oz. slA Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. 6 Solution of ionone, 10% m. 15 Alcohol , fl.dr. 6 Honeysuckle Extract. I. Essence of rose fl.oz. 4 Essence of violet fl.oz. 4 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 4 Tincture of vanilla fl.oz. 1 Tincture of tolu fl.oz. 1 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Spirit of bitter almond fl.dr. 3^ Spirit of neroli fl.dr. 1 r > Alcohol fl.dr. 4 II. Oil of rose m. 30 Oil of bergamot m. 30 Oil of angelica drops 3 Oil of sandalwood drops 15 Vanillin gr. 6 Solut. oil of rose fl.oz. 8 Solut. oil of jasmine tl.oz. S Solut. oil of violet fl.oz. 8 Alcohol, No. 2. to make fl.oz. 32 904 THE STANDARD FORMULARY The three solutions mentioned are of the concrete oils in the proportion of i ounce to the gallon of alcohol. Hyacinth Extract. I. Hyacinthin dr. \l/2 Oil of neroli bigarade drops 30 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 2l/2 Tincture of benzoin fl.dr. 5 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 3 Alcohol fl.oz. 12 Orange flower water, triple. fl.oz. 1/2 II. Hyacinthin gr. 90 Solution of ionone, 10% m. 10 Essence of rose fl.oz. 4^ Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 3 Essence of violet fl.oz. 3 Essence of cassie fl.oz. V/2 Tincture of vanilla fl.oz. 1/2 Imperatrice Extract. Spirit of rose fl.dr. 10 Spirt of rose geranium. .. .fl.oz. 2 Spirit of santal fl.oz. 3 Spirit of ylang ylang fl.oz. 1 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. V/2. Tincture of vanilla fl.oz.'" V/2 Tincture of musk fl.oz. V/2 Cumarin gr. 12 Alcohol fl.oz. 4 Ixora Extract. Essence of cassie fl.oz. 5 Essence of reseda fl.oz. 5 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 3^2 Spirit of orris fl.oz. 3^2 Tincture of Siam benzoin. . .fl.dr. 3 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 2/2 Oil of bergamot m. 75 Jasmine Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 25 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 5 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 2^2 3 4 I. Tincture of Siam benzoin. . .fl.oz. Tincture of musk fl.dr. Jockey Club Extract. II. Compound spirit of rose. .. .fl.oz. 4 Essence of rose fl.oz. 1 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 4 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 1 Essence of orange flowers. . .fl.oz. 1 Tincture of civet fl.oz. 2 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. s1/ Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2l/2 Essence of jasmine.. fl.oz. I. Compound of spirit of rose. fl.oz. 3l/2 Spirit of ambrette fl.oz. 1 Spirit of neroli fl.dr. 2/2 Tincture of civet fl.dr. 4 Alcohol, to make fl.oz. 16 III. Oil of rose fl.dr. 2 Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 2 Tincture of civet fl.oz. 21/ Vanillin gr. 30 Solut. oil of cassie fl.oz. 8 Solut. oil of tuberose fl.oz. 8 Solut. oil of jasmine fl.oz. 8 Alcohol fl.oz. 8 The solutions mentioned are of the concrete oils in the proportion of one ounce to a gallon of alcohol. Kew Garden Flowers Extract. Essence of orange flowers. . .fl.oz. 5 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 2/2 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2^ Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 2^ Spirit of rose geranium fl.oz. 2 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 4 Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. 3 Kiss-Me-Quick Extract. Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2^ Essence of jasmine fl.dr. 10 Essence of tuberose fl.dr. 10 Tincture of vanilla fl.dr. 3 Tincture of Siam benzoin. . .fl.dr. 2 Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.dr. 2 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 1 Spirit of bergamot fl.dr. 7 Spirit of neroli fl.dr. 6 Alcohol fl.oz. 9 II. Essence of cassie fl.oz. 7 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 3^2 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 3H Tincture of vanilla fl.dr. 4 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 4 Tincture of ambergris. . . .fl.dr. 3 Tincture of Siam benzoin m. 45 Stronger tincture of orris m. 75 Alcohol fl.dr. 4 Lavender Extract. Essence of rose fl.oz. 2 Spirit of lavender fl.oz. 10 Alcohol fl.oz. 4 Lilac Extract (Lilac Blossom — White Lilac). I. Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 12 Essence of orange flowers, .n.oz. 3 Tincture of civet fl.dr. 4 Spirit of ylang ylang fl.dr. 4 Oil of bitter almond drops 3 PERFUMES. 905 II. Terpineol fl.dr. 10 Heliotropin gr. 30 Oil of ylang ylang m. 75 Tincture of civet fl.dr. 4 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 12^2 Essence of rose fl.oz. gl/2 Alcohol fl.oz. 8 Lily (Gold) Extract. Nerolin m. 15 Linalool m. 25 Vanillin gr. 25 Oil of cassie, synthetic fl.dr. 1 Tincture of artificial civet.. fl.dr. 3 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 2 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 4 Essence of rose fl.oz. jl/2 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 15 Alcohol fl.oz. 3 Lily (White) Extract. Essence of rose fl.dr. 20 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.dr. 10 Essence of cassie fl.dr. 10 Tincture of vanilla fl.dr. 14 Spirit of clove fl.dr. 4 Alcohol fl.oz. 9 Lily-of-the-Valley Extract. (White Pond Lily Extract.) Essence of tuberose. fl.oz. 8 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 1 Essence of orange flowers. . .fl.oz Essence of cassie fl.oz Essence of rose fl.oz Compound spirit of rose fl.oz Oil of bitter almond ..drops Tincture of vanilla ..fl.oz. I II. Essence of rose fl.oz. Essence of violet fl.oz. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. Essence of cassie fl.oz. Spirit of linaloe fl.oz. Spirit of ylang ylang fl.dr. Compound spirit of rose... fl.dr. Spirit of neroli fl.dr. Tincture of musk fl.dr. Oil of mace, volatile drops Alcohol fl.oz. Essence- of rose, second wash- ing, to make fl.oz. III. Heliotropin drops Vanillin gr. Oil of rose geranium drops Oil of sandalwood drops Oil of coriander drops Oil of linaloe fl.dr. Tincture of civet fl.oz. 4 2 1 1 6H 4 2/2 1 6 2 16 Solut. oil of tuberose fl.oz. 12 Solut. oil of jasmine fl.oz. 12 The solutions mentioned are of the concrete oils in the proportion ounce to the gallon of alcohol. Liriodendron Extract. Essence of cassie fl.dr. Essence of tuberose fl.dr. Essence of orange flowers. . .fl.dr. Tincture of Siam benzoin. . .fl.oz. Tincture of civet fl.oz. Tincture of orris fl.oz. Spirit of bergamot fl.oz. Spirit of rose fl.dr. Alcohol fl.oz. Locust Blossom Extract. I. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. Essence of cassie fl.oz. Tincture of vanilla ....fl.oz. Tincture of civet fl.oz. Alcohol fl.oz. II. Essence of jasmine Essence of cassie Essence of tuberose... Tincture of vanilla... Tincture of civet Tincture of ambergris Spirit of ylang ylang. of iy2 iy2 sy2 .fl.oz, 8 .fl.oz. 4 .fl.oz. .fl.oz. .fl.oz. .fl.dr. .fl.dr. Heliotropin gr. Lurline Extract. Essence of rose fl.oz. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. Essence of cassie fl.oz. Spirit of bergamot fl.oz. Spirit of rose fl.dr. Spirit of santal fl.dr. Tincture of civet fl.oz. Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. Oil of lavender m. Alcohol fl.oz. Marie Stuart Extract. Essence of cassie fl.oz. Essence of orange flowers Essence of rose Compound spirit of rose. Spirit of bergamot Spirit of rose geranium.. Spirit of patchouly .fl.oz. .fl.oz. .fl.oz. .fl.dr. .fl.dr. .fl.dr. Tincture of musk. fl.dr. Tincture of tonka fl.dr. Tincture of tolu fl.dr. Tincture of Siam benzoin, .fl.dr. Cumarin gr. Oil of verbena m. Alcohol fl.oz. Mix and dissolve. 4 2/2 2/2 3 5 4 I 3 70 2 2 2 4 12 10 2 6 5 4 25 15 I 900 THE STANDARD FORMULARY May Bells Extract (Mabel Bouquet). Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 3*4 Ylang ylang extract No. 1.. fl.oz. 3J/2 Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.oz. 2% Fluid extract of cardamom. . .m. 30 Alcohol fl.oz. 6V2 The fluid extract may be replaced by 3 drops of oil of cardomom or by 30 gr. of freshly powdered cardamom. May Blossom Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 4 Essence of rose fl.oz. 2x/2 Essence of reseda fl.oz. 2l/2 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. \l/2 Spirit of orris fl.oz. il/2 Spirit of ylang ylang fl.dr. 6 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 2 Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. 2 Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 2 Heliotropin gr. 30 Alcohol fl.oz. 2l/2 May Fern Extract. Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 3 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 3 Essence of rose fl.oz. 3 Essence of violet fl.oz. il/2 Essence of cassie fl.oz. ix/2 Spirit of orris fl.oz. I Tincture of vanilla fl.oz. 1 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 4^2 Tincture of civet fl.dr. 2l/2 Tincture of Siam benzoin, .fl.dr. 2 Oil of veteivert m. 30 Oil of rose geranium m. 30 Oil of rose m. 30 Oil of santal m. 30 Oil of bergamot m. 30 Oil of Canada snakeroot. .drops 5 Meadow Queen Extract. Essence of cassie fl.oz. 4 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 4 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 4 Spirit of orris fl.oz. 1 Tincture of tonka fl.oz. 1 Tincture' of civet fl.dr. 4 Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 2 Oil of bitter almond m. 15 Alcohol fl.dr. 10 Mikado Bouquet Extract. Lily of the valley extract, .fl.oz. 8 Spirit of sandal fl.oz. il/2 Spirit of rose fl.dr. 6 Spirit of vetivert fl.dr. 6 Spirit of cedarwood fl.oz. 3 Tincture of civet fl.oz. 1 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 4 Oil of verbena m. 25 Oil of patchouly m. 15 Alcohol fl.dr. 4 Millefleurs Extract (Thousand Flowers). Compound spirit of rose fl.oz. 3 Essence of rose fl.oz. 1 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 4 Essence of orange flowers. . .fl.oz. 2 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2 Stronger tincture of orris. . .fl.oz. 2 Tincture of tonka fl.oz. 1 Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. 4 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 4 Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 2 Oil of bitter almond drops 3 Oil of neroli drops 3 Oil of clove drops 3 II. Essence of rose fl.oz. 3^2 Essence of tuberose... fl.oz. 1% Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 1% Essence of cassie fl.oz. il/2 Essence of violet fl.oz. \l/> Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. il/2 Spirit of santal fl.oz. 1 Spirit of rose fl.dr. 5 Tincture of vanilla fl.dr. 4 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 4 Tincture of ambergris. .. .fl.dr. 3 Oil of bergamot m. 15 Oil of bitter almond drops 3 Oil of neroli drops 3 Oil of clove drops 3 Monte Carlo Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 2 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 2 Essence of violet fl.oz. 2 Spirit of rose fl.oz. 2 Spirit of sandal fl.oz. 1 Spirit of lavender fl.oz. \l/2 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. 6 Tincture of vanilla fl.dr. 7 Oil of lemon fl.dr. I Mousseline Extract. Esterhazy bouquet extract, .fl.oz. 5 Essence of cassie fl.dr. 7 Essence of jasmine fl.dr. 7 Essence of tuberose fl.dr. 7 Spirit of sandal fl.oz. 5 Compound spirit of rose. .. .fl.dr. 13 Spirit of rose geranium. .. .fl.dr. 3^2 Alcohol fl.oz. 2 Musk Extract. I. Tincture of musk fl.oz. 11 Tincture of civet fl.oz. 1 Compound spirit of rose. .. .fl.oz. 4 This is a rather high priced article but the tincture of musk may be reduced one-half with alcohol and still yield a satisfactory product. PERFUMES. 907 II. I. Essence of orange flowers. . .fl.oz. 2 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2 Spirit of rose fl.oz. I Tincture of musk fl.oz. ll/2 Tincture of civet fl.oz. V/2 Tincture of vanilla fl.dr. 4 Tincture of tonka fl.dr. 6 Tincture of tolu fl.dr. 5 Tincture of Siam benzoin. . . .fl.dr. 4 Alcohol fl.oz. 5 Naiad Queen Extract. Spirit of santal fl.oz. Spirit of vetivert fl.oz. Spirit of rose fl.oz. Spirit of patchouly fl.oz. Tincture of musk fl.dr. Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. Oil of verbena m. Alcohol fl.oz. New Mown Hay Extract. Coumarin gr. Vanillin gr. Weaker tincture of orris fl.oz. 3 3 2 2 75 6 II. Vanillin gr. 20 Cumarin av.oz. 1 Anisic aldehyde m. 70 Oil of rose, freed from stearopten m. 25 Oil of rose geranium m. 90 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 2 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 11 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 12 Essence of rose fl.oz. 21 Night-Blooming Cereus Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. Tincture of tonka fl.oz. Tincture of civet fl.oz. Tincture of Siam benzoin. . .fl.oz. Spirit of rose fl.oz. Spirit of rose geranium fl.oz. Ocean Spray Extract ("Sea Breeze") Essence of orange flowers. . .fl.oz. 6 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. Compound spirit of rose fl.oz. Spirit of ambrette fl.dr. Spirit of clove fl.dr. Tincture of musk fl.dr. Tincture of vanilla fl.dr. Orange Blossom or Flower Extract. I. Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 12 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 2 II. Oil of neroli, synthetic m. 160 Tincture of tolu fl.dr. 4 Tincture of musk fl.dr. Spirit of rose fl.oz. Essence of orange flowers. fl.oz. Patchouly Extract. Spirit of patchouly fl.oz. Spirit of rose fl.dr. Alcohol fl.oz. II, Spirit of patchouly fl.dr. Spirit of bergamot fl.oz. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. Essence of rose fl.oz. Tincture of Siam benzoin. . .fl.dr. Alcohol, to make fl.oz. Peach Blossom Extract. Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. Essence of tuberose fl.dr. Spirit of lemon fl.dr. Spirit of almond fl.oz. Peru balsam gr. Alcohol fl.oz. II. Essence of cassie fl.oz. Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. Essence of rose fl.oz. Solution of ionone, 10% fl.dr. Tincture of musk ...fl.dr. Tincture of civet fl.dr. Oil of ylang ylang, natural or synthetic fl.dr. Heliotropin, crystal gr. Alcohol fl.oz. Peau d'Espagne Extract. Tincture of vanilla fl.oz. Tincture of tonka .fl.oz. Tincture of storax fl.oz. Tincture of benzoin fl.dr. Tincture of civet fl.dr. Tincture of musk fl.dr. Oil of neroli petate m. Oil of bergamot m. Oil of santal m. Oil of rose geranium m. Oil of rose m. Oil of verbena m. Oil of cedarwood m. Oil of lavender, Mitcham. . . .m. Oil of clove m. Alcohol fl.oz. Pearl d'Orient Extract. Essence of cassie fl.oz. 8 Essence of orange flowers. . .fl.oz. 8 Spirit of rose fl.oz. 3 Spirit of ylang ylang fl.oz. Ij4 Tincture tii Siam benzoin fl.dr. 6 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 1/2 Alcohol fl.oz. 5 2 30 5 4 ioy2 8/2 2 4 2 2 16 3/2 7 13 2*A 24 12 a1A 3 3 4 6 1 3o 2 1 1  rose fl.oz. Essence of cassie fl.oz. Essence of tuberose fl.oz. Essence of violet fl.oz. Spirit of rose fl.oz. Tincture of ambergris fl.oz. Tincture of civet fl.oz. Solution of ionone, 10% m. Oil of bergamot m. Heliotropin gr. Cumarin gr. Rondeletia Extract. II. II Tincture of musk ....fl.dr. Tincture of ambergris... ....fl.dr. Tincture of vanilla ....fl.dr. Spirit of lavender ....fl.oz. Spirit of clove ....fl.oz. Spirit of bergamot ....fl.oz. Spirit of rose ....fl.oz. Alcohol ....fl.oz. r Spirit of clove ....fl.oz. Spirit of lemon ....fl.oz. Spirit of lavender ....fl.oz. Spirit of bergamot ....fl.oz. Spirit of neroli ....fl.oz. Spirit of rose ....fl.dr. Alcohol ....fl.oz. Rose d'Amour Extract. Essence of rose ....fl.oz. Spirit of rose ....fl.oz. Tincture of musk ....fl.dr. Oil of rose geranium... ....fl.dr. Oil of santal . . .drops Alcohol ....fl.oz. 2/2 2/2 IV2 I I 25 30 30 10 4 2/2 2/2 2 I 2V2 4 7/2 3 3 1 2 5 9 3 2 1 1 Rose (Moss) Extract. Compound spirit of rose fl.oz. Essence of orange flowers. . .fl.oz. Essence of rose fl.oz. Tincture of civet fl.oz. Tincture of musk fl.oz. (Rose (Musk) Extract. Essence of rose fl.dr. 10 Essence of tuberose fl.dr. 5 Essence of jasmine fl.dr. 5 Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.dr. 14 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 7 Spirit of orange fl.dr. 2 Spirit of rose fl.dr. 2 Alcohol fl.oz. \01/ Rose (Tea) Extract. Essence of rose fl.oz. 4 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 1 Compound spirit of rose.. fl.oz. 8 Spirit of sandal fl.oz. 2 Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.oz. 1 Oil of rose geranium drops 20 .fl.dr. 12 .fl.dr. 22 .fl.dr. 22 .fl.dr. .fl.dr. .fl.oz. .fl.oz. Essence of rose Compound spirit of rose.. Spirit of rose geranium.. Spirit of sandal Spirit of neroli Stronger tincture of orris Alcohol, to make Rose (Turkish) Extract. Essence of rose fl.oz. Spirit of rose fl.oz. Spirit of rose geranium. .. .fl.oz. Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. Tincture of musk fl.dr. Alcohol fl.oz. Rose (White) Extract. Compound spirit of rose fl.oz. Essence of rose fl.oz. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. Patchouly extract, No. I... fl.oz. 6 1/2 3V2 6 4 4 II. Oil of rose ...fl.dr. Spirit of rose geranium ...fl.oz. Essence of rose ...fl.oz. Essence of jasmine ...fl.oz. Tincture of musk ...fl.dr. Tincture of ambergris.. ...fl.dr. Alcohol ...fl.oz. 2 1/2 2* 6 6 y2 Rose (Yellow) Extract. Essence of rose fl.oz. 2 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 2 Tincture of tonka fl.dr. 10 Verbena extract, No. IV fl.dr. 2lA Alcohol fl.oz. 10^ Rose Geranium Extract. Oil of rose geranium fl.oz. 1 Alcohol fl.oz. 15 Shazada Extract. Essence of rose fl.oz. Spirit of rose fl.oz. Spirit of clove fl.oz. Tincture of civet fl.oz. Tincture of musk fl.oz. Oil of bergamot fl.dr. Oil of lemon fl.dr. Oil of lavender, Mitcham. . .fl.dr. Oil of nutmeg fl.dr. Alcohol fl.oz. Snow Fairy Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. Muguet dr. Tincture of musk fl.dr. Tincture of cardamon fl.dr. Tincture of Siam benzoin. .. .m. Oil of linaloe m. Oil of cananga m. 13 2 4 2 6 5 3 2 4/2 WA 3 5 2 30 90 90 PERFUMES. 909 Spring Flowers Extract. Essence of rose Essence of violet Essence of cassie Compound spirit  of tuberose. Essence of jasmine. Stronger tincture of Tincture of tonka... Tincture of musk... Spirit of rose Spirit of neroli Benzoic acid, from Alcohol, to make.. .fl.dr. .fl.dr. .fl.dr. .fl.oz. .fl.oz. .fl.oz. .fl.dr. .fl.dr. benzoin. . .gr. 30 fl.oz. 16 II. Oil of ylang ylang, synthetic, .m. Oil of rosewood m. Oil of rose m. Oil of bergamot m. Tincture of artificial musk. fl.oz. Tincture of musk seed fl.oz. Tincture of orris, stronger, .fl.oz. Essence of tuberose fl.oz. Essence of rose fl.oz. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 15 25 30 35 iVa 2V2 5/2 2/2 5 5 Alcohol fl.oz. 6 Stolen Kisses Extract. Essence of jonquille fl.oz. Essence of cassie fl.oz. Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.oz. Tincture of tonka fl.oz. Tincture of civet fl.oz. Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. Spirit of rose fl.dr. Oil of citronella (best) drops 8 4 2V Oil of verbena. drops Alcohol -.-:' fl.oz. Sweet Brier Extract. Oil Oil Oil Oil i Spirit Spirit of bergamot. of lemon of lavender. .. of verbena. .. of rose.... of almond. .fl.dr. .fl.dr. .fl.dr. drops .fl.oz. .fl.dr. .fl.oz. .fl.oz. Tincture of musk Alcohol Sweet Hawthorn Extract. Anisic aldehyde m jasmine, synthetic m, 6 6 4 8 2 \2l/z 2 sy2 Oil of Oil of neroli .# m. Oil of linaloe, synthetic. ... .m. 45 Solution, of artificial musk (1% in 60% alcohol) fl.oz. 5 Alcohol fl.oz. 24 Distilled water fl.oz. n I. Sweet Pea Extract. Essence of tuberose fl.oz. Essence of orange flowers. . .fl.oz. Essence of rose. fl.oz. Tincture of tonka fl.oz. II. Essence of tuberose fl.oz. Essence of orange flowers. . .fl.oz. Essence of rose .fl.oz-. Tincture of vanilla .fl.dr. Tincture of musk fl.dr. Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. Sweet Vernalia Extract. Essence of cassie fl.oz. Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.oz. Tincture of Siam benzoin. . .fl.dr. Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. Oil of rose geranium m. Cumarin gr. Alcohol fl.oz. Trailing Arbutus Extract. Essence of tuberose fl.oz. Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. Essence of cassie fl.oz. Spirit of rose fl.oz. Spirit of ylang ylang fl.oz. Spirit of almond fl.dr. Tincture of vanilla fl.oz. Tincture of musk fl.dr. Tincture of Siam benzoin, .fl.dr. Solution of ionone, 10% m. Heliotropin gr. Vanillin .• gr. Alcohol fl.oz. 7*A zVa 4 2 1V2 5 6 5 80 40 2/2 2V2 1/2 2 I 1/2 2/2 4 2 30 10 6 3 Trefle Extract. Amyl salicylate. Oil of lavender, Mitcham. Oil of clove Oil of ylang ylang Cumarin Vanillin Tincture of musk Tincture of Siam benzoin. Essence of orange flowers. Essence of jasmine Essence of tuberose fl.dr. , . \ m. , . .m. fl.dr. ..gr. ..gr. fl.dr. fl.oz. fl.oz. fl.oz. fl.oz. II. Vanillin gr. Oil of ylang ylang m. Oil of rose m. Oil of bergamot fl.dr. Amyl salicylate fl.dr. Spirit of hyacinth fl.oz. Tincture of artificial civet, .fl.dr. Tincture of artificial musk.. fl.dr. Alcohol tloz. 2 25 40 2 12 12 6 2 5 12V2 12]A 45 10 35 5/2 4 2 28 910 THE STANDARD FORMULARY Tuberose Extract. Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 15 Tincture of ambergris fl.oz. 1 Upper Ten Extract. Tincture of vanilla fl.oz. 4 Tincture of ambergris fl.oz. 3 Stronger tincture of orris.. fl.oz. 3 Compound spirit of rose.. fl.oz. 3 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 3 Oil of bergamot fl.dr. l]/2 Oil of lemon drops 15 Verbena Extract. Essence of orange flowers, .fl.oz. 3 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 3 Compound spirit of rose. . .fl.oz. 3 Spirit of lemon grass fl.dr. 14 Spirit of neroli fl.dr. 10 Oil of lemon fl.dr. 6 Oil of orange fl.dr. 2T/2 Alcohol fl.oz. 3 II. Oil of orange drops 30 Spirit of lemon fl.oz. 10 Spirit of lemon grass fl.oz. 6 Veronica Extract. ...fl.oz. 9 . . .fl.oz. 3 ...fl.oz. \V2 ...fl.oz. iy2 ...fl.dr. 4 ...fl.dr. 3 Essence bouquet Essence of rose Essence of jasmine Essence of tuberose Tincture of musk Tincture of ambergris... Violet Extract. Essence of violet fl.oz. II Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.oz. 2 II. Ionone, 10% solution fl.dr. 5 Heliotropin m. 30 Oil of orris, concrete dr. 1 Oil of violet, concrete dr. 1 Solution of artificial musk 1% fl.dr. 2 Tincture of civet fl.dr. 4 Solut. oil of jasmine fl.oz. 4 Solut. oil of rose fl.oz. 8 Solut. oil of cassie fl.oz. 16 Alcohol, No. 2, to make. .. .fl.oz. 32 The oil solutions referred to here are solutions of 1 ounce of concrete oil to 1 gallon of alcohol. III. Oil of ylang ylang, artificial, .m. 15 Spirit of rose (from arti- ficial oil) fl.oz. 1 Spirit of neroli (from arti- ficial oil) fl.dr. 4 Solution of artificial musk, 1% m. 100 Solution of oil of orris, concrete, 1% fl.oz. 1 Solution of ionone, i%... fl.oz. 15 Tincture of benzoin fl.oz. 2 Alcohol fl.oz. 10 Violet (Forest) Extract. Spirit of almond fl.dr. 1 Essence of rose. fl.oz. 5 Essence of tuberose fl.oz. 6l/2 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 12 Tincture of orris, stronger 3^2 Alcohol fl.oz. 3 This formula is noteworthy because it does not contain violet in any form. Violet (Imperial) Extract. Ionarol dr. 4 Vanillin gr. 10 Oil of orris, concrete dr. 1 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 6 Essence of rose fl.oz. 4 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 6 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 8 Essence of violet fl.oz. 12 Violet (Mountain) Extract. Ionarol gr. 50 Oil of ylang ylang m. 35 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 3 Essence of violet fl.oz. 18 Essence of violet (2nd washing) fl.oz. 7 Essence of cassie (2nd washing) fl.oz. 2 Essence of jasmine (2nd washing) fl.oz. 4* Violet de Parme Extract (Parmese Violet). Essence of violet fl.oz. 7 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 4 Spirit of orris fl.oz. 2 Compound spirit of rose fl.oz. 1 Spirit of almond fl.dr. 1 Tincture of civet fl.dr. 4 Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. 4 Alcohol fl.oz. 1 Violet (Riviera) Extract. Essence of violet fl.oz. 24 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 4 Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. 6 Tincture of civet fl.dr. 4 Spirit of bergamot fl.oz. 1 Solution of ionone, 10% fl.dr. 2 Heliotropin gr. 2 Violet (Russian) Extract. Ionone, 10% solution fl.oz. 1 Oil of orris, concrete m. 10 PERFUMES. 911 Oil of ylang ylang m. 15 Essence of violet fl.oz. 15 Essence of violet (3rd washing) fl.oz. 6 Essence of rose (2nd washing) fl.oz. 3 Essence of orange flower (3rd washing) fl.oz. 4H Essence of jasmine (2nd washing) fl.oz. 6 Violet (Spring) Extract. Ionone dr. 2 Vanillin gr. 5 Oil of orris m. 15 Oil of rose geranium m. 15 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 1^2 Essence of rose fl.oz. V/2 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 3 Essence of violet fl.oz. 4 Alcohol fl.oz. 20 Violet (Swiss Alpine) Extract. Essence of violet fl.oz. 20 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 5 Essence of rose fl.oz. 1 Spirit of orris fl.oz. 4 Solution of ionone, 10%... fl.dr. 1 Spirit of almond... ^ m. 501 Tincture of ambergris fl.dr. 6 Add chlorophyll if desired. Violet (Tampa) Extract. Essence of violet fl.oz. 24 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2 Spirit of orris fl.oz. 2 Solution of ionone, 10% fl.dr. 2 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Vanillin gr. 6 Alcohol fl.oz. 1 Violet (Wood) Extract. I. Violet extract, No. II fl.oz. 16 Oil of bitter almond drops 15 II. Essence of violet fl.dr. 13 Essence of cassie fl.dr. 10 Essence of rose fl.dr. 6Yi Essence of tuberose ...fl.dr. 6^ Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.dr. 10 Spirit of almond fl.dr. V/* Alcohol fl.oz. 9 III. Oil of bergamot m. 30 Solution of artificial musk (1% in 60% alcohol} fl.oz. 1 Solution of ionone (1 in 30 in 60% alcohol) fl.oz. 20 Solution of oil of orris, con- crete (1 in 60 in 60% alcohol) fl.oz. 20 West End Extract. Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 1 Essence of cassie fl.oz. 1 Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.oz. 3 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 2 Tincture of storax fl.dr. 2 Spirit of rose fl.dr. 4 Spirit of cedarwood fl.dr. 5 Spirit of neroli fl.dr. 4 Oil of verbena drops 4 Benzoic acid, from bezoin...gr. 15 Alcohol, to make fl.oz. 16 Widow McPhelan Extract. Essence of cassie fl.oz. 2 Essence of violet fl.oz. 1 Stronger tincture of orris, .fl.oz. 3 Spirit of nutmeg fl.dr. 5 Spirit of pimento fl.dr. 5 Spirit of rose fl.dr. 2 Spirit of cinnamon m. 30 Ylang ylang extract No. II. fl.oz. 3 Alcohol fl.oz. 6 Wild Olive Extract. Essence of rose... Essence of violet. .. Essence of jasmine Essence of cassie.. Spirit of bergamot. Spirit of  rose... Essence of jasmine Essence of cassie.. Spirit of rose Tincture of orris, stronger, .fl.oz Tincture of musk .fl.dr Tincture of ambergris fl.dr Spirit of ylang ylang. .... .fl.dr, Alcohol fl.oz Woodbine Extract. See Honeysuckle Extract. Ylang- Ylang Extract. Spirit of ylang ylang fl.oz. 8 Compound spirit of rose fl.oz. 4 Essence of jasmine fl.oz. 2 Tincture of civet fl.oz. 2 1 1 lY2 2 1/2 II. Essence of jasmine fl.dr. 21 Essence of tuberose fl.dr. 14 Essence of orange flowers, .fl.dr. 7 Spirit of ylang ylang fl.dr. 11 Alcohol fl.oz. or 2 912 THE STANDARD FORMULARY TOILET WATERS (Perfumed Waters). Toilet waters differ from handker- chief extracts in being much weaker ; frequently they also contain water (in small proportion) which it is usually impossible to add to handkerchief ex- tracts without precipitating some of the constituents. These waters are also cheaper than the "extracts" and. are intended to be used freely, as in the bath, for spraying or sprinkling about in a room, for barber's use, etc. They are usually named after the predomin- ating ingredient, viz., lavender water, violet water, etc. The most popular of the toilet waters are Cologne Water, Florida Water, Vio- let Water, and Bay Rum. The essences, spirits and tinctures used fjor these preparations are the same as those used for making handker- chief extracts. After making these prep- arations, they should be put away for several weeks to allow "ripening" or blending of odors, after which they may be filtered. Besides the waters mentioned herein and for which formulas are given, other waters may be made by suitably dilut- ing the corresponding extract with al- cohol, then adding water until the mix- ture becomes milky, and filtering clear through talcum or calcium phosphate. adapt itself to the contour of the neck and stopper. The split skin should be merely moistened, not soaked, as soak- ing makes it lose its nice appearance. Gold-beater's skin ma}', however, be wetted quite thoroughly. Then draw the skin taut and very smooth over the stopper and over the mouth of the bot- tle and tie it snugly just below the lips with a piece of fine, strong cord. The excess of skin is then to be cut off close with a sharp knife. Some prefer to cut the skin off with scissors, leaving a slight excess beyond the cord of 1/8 to 1/16 inch. Then loop a narrow ribbon of nice color first around the base of the stopper and then around the neck of the bottle and tie the ends in a nice bow. Instead of ribbon, fancy silk cord may be used, this to be tied in a knot, allowing the ends to project a quarter inch or so. These ends should be combed out tassel-like. Very frequently, especially if the stopper is of a fancy design, a piece of narrow split skin is wound once around the base of the stop- per and the lips of the bottle, cutting off the excess as before. Then finish with a piece of ribbon or silk cord. Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne). Cologne water, or "cologne" as it is so frequently denominated, is really a toilet water but the public frequently For example, heliotrope or frangipanni j make it serve as an "extract." Cologne water may be made by diluting helio- trope 'or frangipanni extract as de- scribed. These waters are frequently but improperly called colognes (heliotrope cologne, lilac cologne, violet cologne, etc.). It is customary to "finish off" bottles of toilet water by capping the stoppers. This is done with either split skin or gold-beater's skin, as they are termed. These should be cut into strips slightly wider than the distance from one side of the neck of the bottle to the other side, measuring over the top of the stopper. Just before using moisten the skin to make it pliable and more readily water was first introduced to public no- tice in the 18th century by Johan Maria Farina of the city of Cologne, Germany, whence its name, "Farina" cologne water in sealed bottles is still an article of commerce. The original has been imitated by almost every professional and amateur perfumer but seemingly without success. The primary or essential constituent of cologne water is oil of orange flow- ers to which are added other citrine oils (orange, lemon, bergamot, cedrat). Some of the imitations are made with- out oil of* neroli and may have a va- riety of other ingredients such as musk PERFUMES. 913 and clove. The original cologne water is made by distillation. As in the case of other perfumes, su- perior ingredients will make a first-class product, inferior ingredients a poor product. Cologne water should not be used when freshly made, but should be aged by storing it away in sealed vessels in a dark place for several months, or a year if possible. After being com- pleted it should be preserved in well stoppered bottles, away from strong light and heat. The essences, spirits, and tinctures used in the formulas below are the same as those employed in making handker- chief extracts, which see. Cologne waters are known by various fanciful appellations such as Newport Cologne, Opera Cologne, German Co- logne, Lafayette Cologne, Farina Cologne, Victoria Cologne, Superior Cologne, Imperial Cologne, Oriental Cologne, Royal Cologne, etc. I. Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 4 Oil of lemon .fl.dr. 2 Oil of lavender flowers fl.dr. 1 Oil of neroli fl.dr. I Oil of rosemary m. 105 Acetic ether m. 30 Water fl.oz. 4 Alcohol fl.oz. 28 Dissolve the oils and ether in the al- cohol, add the water, set the mixture aside, in a well-closed vessel for 8 days, then filter in a well-covered funnel. This formula is inserted not because it is especially good but because it was recognized in the U. S. P. 1880 under the names Spiritus Odoratus, Perfumed Spirit, and Cologne Water. It is now mentioned in the N. F. Appendix. II. This is Scoville's formula which was presented at a meeting of the A. Ph. A.: Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 3 Oil of lemon fl.dr. V/2 Oil of neroli «. . .fl.dr. 1 Oil of orange m. 30 Oil of rosemary m. 30 Tincture of Siam benzoin. . .fl.dr. 2 Alcohol fl.oz. 28 Orange flower water fl.oz. 3 Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the tincture, shake well, and add the water. III. The following formula was awarded a prize about 20 years ago in London as furnishing the best cologne water among 219 samples submitted : Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 2 Oil of lemon fl.dr. 1 Oil of neroli drops 20 Oil of rosemary drops 20 Oil of origanum, true drops 6 Alcohol fl.oz. 19 Orange flower water fl.oz. 1 Dissolve the oils in the alcohol and add the water. IV. This formula won a medal about 20 years ago at a Sydney Exhibition : Oil of cedrat m. 100 Oil of neroli petale m. 60 Oil of neroli bigarade m. 20 Oil of bergamot m. 40 Oil of rosemary m. 40 Alcohol fl.oz. 32 This seems to be very weak in oils but the author claims that other co- lognes contain too great a proportion of oils. Cologne Water With Musk. A toilet water with musk is not a true cologne water because -the original does not contain this ingredient. How- ever so many formulas do contain musk that the best ones have been selected and are given here: V. Oil of neroli petale fl.dr. 1 Oil of rose geranium m. 30 Stronger tincture of orris. . .fl.oz. 2 Tincture of musk fl.oz. 1 Tincture of civet fl.dr. 1 Alcohol fl.oz .28 Mix and filter. VI. Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 3 Oil of lemon fl.dr. 1^2 Oil of lavender flowers m. 30 Oil of orange m. 30 Oil of rose m. 30 Grain musk gr. 1 Alcohol fl.oz. 30 Water, to make fl.oz. 32 914 THE STANDARD FORMULARY Mix the oils and musk with the alco- hol, add the water, macerate for 5 days, agitating frequently, and filter. Lafayette Cologne. VII. Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 3 Oil of lemon fl.dr. il/2 Oil of lavender flowers m. 40 Oil of rose m. 30 Oil of neroli m. 20 Musk extract fl.dr. 2 Alcohol fl.oz. 32 Orange flower water fl.oz. 2>lA Oriental Cologne. VIII. Musk gr. 4 Vanilla, the meat or interior, .gr. 10 Asafetida, powder gr. 1 Oil of rose m. 30 Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 6 Essence of jasmine fl.dr. 5 Essence of violet fl.dr. 5 Oil of neroli m. 40 Alcohol fl.oz. 59 Water fl.oz. 5 Mix the musk, vanilla, water and 11 fluidounces of alcohol, macerate for 30 days, add the remaining ingredients, macerate another 30 days, agitating fre- quently, and filter. IX. Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 2 Oil of rose geranium m. 30 Tincture of musk fl.dr. 2 Tincture of vanilla fl.dr. 1 Essence of violet fl.dr. 2 Jockey club extract fl.dr. 2 Alcohol fl.oz. 21 Water fl.oz. 3 Mix all but the water, add the latter gradually with agitation, set aside for some time, and then filter. White Rose Cologne. The following has been known by this name : X. Oil of rose m. 15 Oil of bergamot m. 20 Oil of sweet orange m. 15 Oil of patchouli drops 3 Tincture of musk m. 30 Tincture of ci\*et m. 30 Tincture of orris, stronger, .fl.dr. 2 Essence of jasmine. fl.oz. 1 Alcohol fl.oz. 22 Rose water fl.oz. 2 Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the tinctures, and then the rose water. Let stand a few weeks, color pale green with chlorophyll, and filter. Bath Cologne. Cheaper kinds of cologne water are offered under this name. They must also contain none of the animal per- fumes. The following formulas are rec- ommended : XL Oil of bergamot fl.dr. 1 Oil of rosemary fl.dr. 1 Oil of citronella m. 25 Oil of lemon m. 25 Oil of sassafras m. 25 Oil of clove m. 15 Oil of wintergreen m. 15 Acetic ether fl.dr. 1 Alcohol fl.oz. 24 Water fl.oz. 5 Mix, let stand a week or more, and filter. XII. Oil of lavender flowers fl.dr. 1 Oil of bergamot m. 30 Oil of orange m. 30 Oil of rosemary m. 30 Oil of cinnamon drops 5 Alcohol fl.oz. 2>2 Headache Cologne. By headache cologne is meant a fairly weak cologne water to which menthol has been added in the proportion of 20 to 30 grains to the pint. Or use 30 grains of menthol and 8 grains of cam- phor to the pint. Antiseptic Cologne. Among the various formulas offered under this name the following is the best one: XIII. Oil of bergamot fl.dr. il/2 Oil of orange m. 15 Oil of rosemary m. 15 Eucalvptol m. 30 Bornyl acetate gr. 10 Tincture of Siam benzoin. . .fl.dr. 2 Alcohol fl.oz. 22 Water fl.oz. 10 Dissolve the oils, eucalvptol, and- bornyl acetate in the alcohol, add the tincture, then the water gradually with agitation, set aside for a few days, or weeks if possible, and filter. PERFUMES. 915 Bornyl acetate is the odorous princi- ples of oil of pine but is now made synthetically from borneol. It is about 20 times as strong as oil of pine. Eau de Bretfeld. XIV. 