Five years in Damascus: including an account of the history, topography, and antiquities of that city; with travels and researches in Palmyra, Lebanon, and the Hauran
— CQ o O z^^CO c==a) CM t^^r^ jT) "=■ - - -fQ t>- — — ■^■^1^ CO ;ik«a»i^. >J' .\^ JlJ C't>^2.f^ -e/^. m < FIVE YEARS IN DAMASCUS: INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT HISTORY, TOPOGRAPHY, AND "ANTIQUITIES OF THAT CITY; WITH TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES IN PALMYRA, LEBANON, AND THE HAURAN. By rev. J. L. PORTER, A.M., F.R.S.L. IN TWO VOLUMES.— Vol. L Mxt^ paps ani> Illustrations. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1855. I FEB 81^:7 1 LOJJDON : PRINTED BY M". CLOWES AND SONS. STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. PEEFACE The following work is not a book of travels, penned during a " summer's ramble " or a " winter's residence." It is the result of researcbes extending over a period of more than five years. Though I have wandered through most of Palestine, I have here confined my attention to a few provinces hitherto but little knoWn; my object being not so much to amuse as to instruct. My pro- fessional duties not only obliged me to study the language and customs of the people of the land, but to traverse their country, and visit their towns and villages. I have thus had opportunities of minutely examining the topo- graphy and antiquities, and of acquiring information regarding ancient sites, such as are enjoyed by few travellers. My tastes also led me to improve every opportunity I possessed, and to study, the ancient geo- graphy and history of Palestine combined with the best works of modern travel The district to which my researches have here been con- fined is among the most interesting in Syria. Damascus has been a city from the time when Abraham left his home " between the rivers," to journey westward to the " Land iv PREFACE. of Promise." It is thus a connecting link between the patriarchal age and modern days; and its beauty and richness have been proverbial for full four thousand years. A romantic interest will be attached to Palmyra, the desert home of Zenobia, while history exists ; and Lebanon and Hermon will not cease to be remembered with liveliest feelings so long as the Word of God con- tinues to bless the world. Bashan, too, has been im- mortalized by the song of the Psalmist ; and now it possesses additional interest, as containing the only exist- ing specimens of the ordinary dwellings of remote anti- quity, and of the architecture of a race of giants that has been extinct for three thousand years. Though a part of this district has already been traversed by others, yet a large portion of it is new ground ; and none of it has hitherto been examined with that minute- ness which its importance demands. Burckhardt possessed all the qualifications necessary for a successful explorer — a knowledge of the language, powers of accurate observa- tion, and an enthusiastic love for discovery; but unfor- tunately he did not live to publish his own notes. Many parts of his work are thus meagre and obscure ; and in not a few places there are inaccuracies which he would doubtless have corrected on subsequent revision. Eitter, in the last edition of his ' Palastina und Syrien,' has, with his accustomed research, collected all the information given by travellers and other writers ; but a perusal of that learned work will best show to the reader how much new PREFACE. V light I have been enabled to throw on the historical geography of tliis portion of Syria. The plan I have followed has been, accurately to describe the features of the country through which I travelled, and the state of the towns and villages I visited, and then to add such historical notices as ancient autho- rities furnish. The latter I have, with a very few excep- tions, taken from the originals. I have attempted to define, and, I believe, with a near approach to accuracy, the boundaries of the ancient kingdom of Bashan, and the position and extent of the provinces into which it was subsequently divided. I have described the scenery and character of the "Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus,*' from their sources amid the heights of Antilebanon and Hermon to where they empty their waters into hitherto unknown lakes on the borders of the Great Desert. While wandering through Bible lands my chief object has been to illustrate Bible truths ; and the result of ex- tensive travel, and no little research, has been to impress upon my mind the fact that the more we extend our labours in Palestine, whether as antiquarians, geographers, or politicians, the more strongly are we convinced of the literal fulfilment of prophecy, and of the minute accuracy of the topographical and statistical sketches contained in the Word of God. The map attached to this work has been constructed by myself, almost wholly from my own observations and surveys. My sextant and compass were my constant a 3 vi PREFACE. companions on every excursion, and were used wherever opportunity offered and circumstances required. The great changes effected by my labours on this part of the map of Syria will be obvious to every student of geo- graphy ; and their accuracy can be tested by future tra- vellers. The Jordan and its lakes were laid down from the map of Lieut. Lynch ; and the western slopes of Lebanon were constructed from the best authorities. All the rest is my own. Its merits — if any it has — are mine ; and for its defects I alone am responsible. The plans and woodcuts are all original, and have, with two exceptions, been engraved from my own drawings. I cannot conclude without recording my obligations to my kind friend and companion during many a day's travel, the Eev. Smylie Eobson, who not only gave me important assistance in my labours, but carefully perused the manu- script when ready for the press. To the Eev. James Barnett I am also much indebted for the use of his notes, and of the numerous inscriptions he copied during our journey in the Hauran. To another esteemed friend and fellow-traveller, James Graham, Esq., I owe thanks for the photographs of the Great Mosk and East Gate of Damascus, and for many acts of personal kindness. St. Helier, Jersey, September 21st, 1855. CONTENTS OF VOLUME I. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. — BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS. First sight of Syria — Bay of Beyrout — Sceneiy — Hotel de Belle Vue — Start for Damascus — Mode of travel — Mountain road — Scenery and geology of Lebanon — Syrian horses — Bhamdtin — Eoute to summit of mountain — Watershed — Rock sculpture — Castle and ancient tombs — The Litany — The Buka'a — Ruined temple — Site and history of Chalcis — Night quarters — Wady Harir — Watershed of Antilibanus — Wady el-Kum — Banditti — Ridges of Antilibanus — Plain of Sahra — Approach to Damascus Page 1-23 CHAPTER II. DAMASCUS. — TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. Mode of treating these topics — Scarcity of information — Ibn Asaker's history — Antiquity of Damascus — Its situation — Its plain — The Abana and Pharpar — System of irrigation — Splendid view — The streets — Costumes — Mosks — Khans — Private houses — The Harlm — The house of 'Aly Aga and his tragic fate p. 24-38 Ancient Walls : Misrepresentations of travellers — The East Gate — Bas- reliefs — Spot where Paul was let down in a basket — St. George the Porter — Scene of Paul's conversion — Tomb of Mohammed's Muezzin — Muslem tombs — Roman gate — Mosk of Senan^asha — The West Gate — The " Street calle^l Straight " — Cemeteries — Greek bazaar — The castle — Gigantic plane-tree — Gates — Khaled's head-quarters — House of Naaman 38-55 Walk through the City : Churches and convents — House of Ananias — Greek church — Russian schools — Bazaars and trades — Great Khan — N<ir ed-Dia — Slave-market 55-61 Great Mosk : Triumphal arch — Head of John the Baptist — Ancient gate and inscription — Age of the building — Its history and splendour — Tombs of Saladin and Meiek ed-Dhaher — Mosk of Sultan Sellm 61-77 viii CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER III. HISTORY OF DAMASCUS. 1st Period : First notice in Bible — When founded, and by whom — Tradition of Abi-aham — David takes city — Ben-Hadad and his royal line — Rezon — Samaria besieged — Kingdom of Damascus — Elijah — Naaman *— Elisha — Hazael — City taken by Jeroboam — By Tiglath-pileser. 2nd Period : Fulfilment of prophecy — Fall of Assyrian Empire — The city captured by Pharaoh-Necho, and by Nebuchadnezzar — Alexander the Great. Srd Period : Damascus under the Ptolemies — Growing influence of Rome — Fall of Egyptian rule in Syria — Division of empire of the Seleucidae — Damascus again a royal city — Aretas — Fall of the Seleu- cidae — The city taken by the Romans — Pompey. 4</t Period : Damas- cus under the Romans — Cleopatra — Antioch — Strabo's account of the city — Nicolaus the historian — Aretas and Herod — Spread of Christianity — Paul's conversion — Apollodonas the architect — The city taken by Sapor — Odenathus and Zenobia — Damascus a Metropolitan city — Captured by Persians — Besieged and taken by Mohammedans. 5th Period : Under the Arabs — Muslem dynasties — The Crusaders — Saladin — The Mam- lukes — Origin and history of the Turks — Conquests of Tiraur — Awful massacre — Sultan Selim conquers Syria — Turkish policy — Ibrahim Pasha — Richard Wood, Esq Page 78-148 CHAPTER lY. JOURNEY TO PALMYRA. Bedawy Sheikh — Dromedaries and their saddles — Gardens — The mirage — Mountain pass — Kuteifeh — Evening entertainment — Frank sorcery — Early rising — Jerfld — Sheikh F^res and Arab cavaliers — Border warfare — Salt marsh — The desert — The Bedawy in the desert — En- campment of Bedawin — Patriarchal customs — A feast — Evening party in a tent — Night adventure — Excitement of desert travel — A chace — Bedawy Hanms — Enemies — Preparations for battle — Singular moun- tain — Encounter with robbers — Arab hospitality — Cold march — Robbers — The spoils of a caravan — Illustrations of Scripture — Bedawy women — Apprehended dangers — Geological features — First view of Tadmor — A " charge " — Attack and capture of our party — Our prison — Alarming conversation — A comic scene — Ride to Palmyra — Descrip- tion of the ruins — Historical sketch — Return — Route of Jacob — Ku- ryetein identified with Hazar-enan p. 149-254 CONTENTS OF VOL. I. ix CHAPTER V. THE VALLEY A^'D FOUNTAIN OF THE BARADA. — THE ANCIENT ABANA. The Barada — The Salahiyeh hills — Dummar — Fine valley — Ancient aqueduct — Great fountain of Fijeh — Wady Barada — Suk, the ancient Abila — Roman Road and aqueducts — Inscriptions — Discoveries of M. de Saulcy — History of Abila — Sublime pass — Roman bridges — — Plain of Zebdany — Fountain of the Barada— Physical geography of district — The " Rivers of Damascus " identified . . Page 255-278 CHAPTER VI. MOUNT HEBMON, AND THE SOURCES OF THE PHARPAR AND JORDAN. hludan — Ancient " High Place " — Mountains of Antilibanus — Inaccuracy of maps — Banditti — Fearful tale — Rasheiya and its prince — Ascent of Hermon — Interesting ruins on summit — The sources of the Pharpar — Descent to Hasbeiya — Source of the Nahr Hasbany — Tell el-Kidy, Dan, and the fountains of the Jordan — Banias, Ccesarea Philippi — Great castle of Banias — The Lake Phiala, and Roman Road — Extent of Jebel esh-Sheikh and Jebel el-Heish — Arab robbers — Beit Jenn and the second source of the Pharpar — M. de Saulcy's discoveries (?) — Descrip- tion of the Pharpar — Approach to Damascus from the west . p. 279-322 CHAPTER VII. HELBON. Ti*adition of Abraliam — Grand defile of M'araba — Menin and its excavated temples — The vale and vineyards of Helbon — Sublime pass of ' Ain es- Sah^ — The site of Helbon identified — Greek inscriptions — Ride over Anti-Lebanon p. 323-336 X CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER VIII. EASTERN SLOPES OF ANTILIBANUS, AND PLAIN OF DAMASCUS. Roman road — Beautiful view of the Ghutah — Convent of Saidnaya — Miraculous image of the Virgin — Ancient tombs and ruins — Saidnaya the ancient Danaba — Ravine and sepulchral caves of Jubb 'Adin — M'alfila — Wild pass and excavated tombs — Topography of the eastern slopes of Antilibanus — The Syriac language spoken — Yabiiid, tlie ancient Jabruda, and its ruins — Night march to Kuteifeh ■ — Dangers of travel — Fine temple at Maksfira — Ruined town discovered — Pro- bably the ancient TelsecB Page 337-372 CHAPTER IX. THE PLAIN AND LAKES OF DAMASCUS. Druze war — Fine scenery of the plain — " Harran of the Columns" — Mouth of the Abana — The character and extent of the South and East lakes — A battle-field — Singular ruins — Adventure in the marshes — Tell es-Salahlyeh, an Assyrian mound — The lake Hljaneh and mouth of the Fharpar — The Safa p. 373-395 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. :Mosk of the Omeiyades Frontispiece Northern Side Arch, East Gate, Damascus page 24 \'iew of Damascus from the North-east to face p. 26 Frout Elevation of East Gate, Damascus 38 Plan of Great Mosk, Damascus to face j). 61 Remains of Triumphal Arch 62 Hollow-headed Arrow 126 rian of Palmyra to face ^. 220 Aqueduct » 223 Interior of Tomb 232 Plan of Site of the ancient Abila to face p. 263 'Ain SSheb — the Entrance to Helbon to face i^. 323 Kurdish Shepherd 337 Tell es-Salahlyeh to face ip. 373 Singular Bas-relief 384 Plan of Damascus at the end. FIVE YEARS IN DAMASCUS, ETC. ETC. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION.— BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS. First sight of Syria — Bay of Beyrout — Scenery — Hotel de Belle Vue — Start for Damascus — Mode of travel — Mountain road — Scenery and geology of Lebanon — Syrian horses — Bhamdiin — Eoute to summit of mountain — "Watershed — Rock sculpture — Castle and ancient tombs — The Litany — The Buka'a — Ruined temple — Site and histoiy of Chalcis — Night quarters — Wady Harir — AYatershed of Antilibanus — Wady el-Kurn — Banditti — Ridges of Antilibanus — Plain of Sahra — Approach to Damascus. In this age of locomotion the romance of travel is gone, and a library of Eesearches, Narratives, and Memorials makes the wanderer familiar with every object of interest, and with all its associations, classic or sacred, ere his eye rests upon it. Still the first sight of the Syrian shores, and of the mountains of Israel, is not soon forgotten. There is a magic power in the living reality which neither poet's pen nor painter's pencil can ever appropriate. The descriptions of others, however graphic, and even the sketch of the artist, however faithful, only place before the mind's eye an ideal scene, which we can contemplate, it is true, with unmingled pleasure, and even with satis- faction ; but when the eye wanders over plain and moun- tain, or the foot touches ** holy ground," the superiority VOL. i. B 2 INTRODUCTION. Chap. 1. of tlie real over tlie ideal is at once felt and acknowledged. Such, at least, lias been my experience. Often had I pictured the beauty of Syria's landscapes and the grandeur of its ruins, and often had I thought of the holy associa- tions that would crowd upon the mind as the eye rested on spots celebrated in history or sanctified by Holy Writ ; but a single glance at the magnificent panorama of Lebanon gave rise to emotions I never before had expe- rienced, and occasioned more real pleasure than the perusal of a host of volumes. I was still asleep, when, on the morning of December 12th, 1849, our little steamer cast anchor in the bay of Beyrout. The stopping of the engines and the hoarse sound of the running cable speedily roused me. I hast- ened on deck to gaze on that " goodly mountain," and leisurely to enjoy the first view of these hallowed shores ; but the bustling scene in the midst of which I emerged, and the babel of tongues that fell upon my ear, completely took me by surprise, and engaged my attention for the time. Numbers of little boats, with fantastically dressed occupants, already danced upon the swelling waves round our vessel ; and scores of eager porters shouted their deep gutturals in the ears of impatient travellers, as if an excess of sound would render their unknown tongue intelligible. Hotel proprietors and servants, in bad French and worse English, set forth the superiority of their respective esta- blishments. Experience had taught me how to get rid of the annoyance of a multitude, by committing myself into the custody of one. I therefore expressed my determina- tion to take up my abode at the " Hotel de Belle Vue" of Antonio Tremetsi. No sooner had I pronounced the CiiAP. I. BEYEOUT TO DAMASCUS. 3 name than a little man, not unlike a retired sailor, bustled tlirough the crowd, and, taking off his broad straw, said, with a profound bow, " Your humble servant, sir." It was Antonio himself, all smiles and politeness. We were soon transferred to his boat, and I had now time to con- template at leisure the magnificent scenery before me. On the south was the fine headland of Ras Beyrout, whose gardens and mulberry groves touched the black rocks against which the long waves broke into showers of diamond spray. Before us lay the town itself, washed by the waters and embowered in richest verdure. The wooded heights behind were thickly studded with pictur- esque villas, beside which, over a mass of underwood, rose here and there a solitary palm or stately cypress. Farther to the left the bay of St. George sweeps round for several miles in a graceful curve, until the white sand of its smooth beach is abruptly shut in by the lofty projecting cliff that forms the southern bank of the Dog river. Northward the eye followed the shore-line, with its spa- cious bays and bold promontories, until lost in the distance. Behind all, from north to south, far as the eye could see, stretched tlie noble ridge of Lebanon, its sides deeply furrowed by many a wild ravine, and its whole summit now white with snow. Scores of villagej^could • be seen clinging to the terraced slopes, or perched on the rugged ridges ; while convents, still more numerous, crowned every peak and precipice. Often since that time have I gazed on the same scene, and always with increased admir- ation. The "glory of Lebanon," though faded, is still worthy of its ancient fame. We were soon established in the humble chambers of B 2 4 INTRODUCTIOJ^. Chap. I. the " Hotel de Belle Vue," where we remained for three weeks. The house was then poor, and badly constructed for a winter residence ; but if an occasional shower found its way to us through porous walls and leaky roof, or a sudden squall burst open the frail shutters of our unglazed windows, some amends were made by the balmy air we breathed and the splendid prospect we enjoyed during the long hours of sunshine ; and the uniform kindness and profuse excuses of our good-natured little host made com- plaint impossible. During our stay we had ample oppor- tunity of examining the few remains still existing of the ancient Beritus. An excursion to the wild ravine and interesting monuments of Nahr el-Kelb,^ and some long rides in the gardens and pine-forest, afforded a pleasing variety. We had landed on the Syrian shores total strangers, alike unknowing and unknown ; but we speedily found friends whose cheerful society and kind hospitality almost made us forget that home and country were far away. And after two months' wandering amid the bust- ling and exciting scenes of the great cities of Europe, we were prepared to enjoy to the full the charms of the quiet family circle. As Beyrout did not form the field of my intended labour, I was anxious to complete my journey, and pass the mountains to Damascus. I engaged as dragoman and instructor in the Arabic language Nikola Ameuny, who was highly recommended to me by my friend Mr. Smith. The opportune arrival of Dr. Paulding, of the Damascus Mission, made us resolve to accompany him on his return * The Nahr el-Kelh (Dog River) is the Lycus flumen of the ancients. It will be fully described in the sequel. Chap. I. BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS. 5 to that city, that we might enjoy the pleasure of his society and the benefit of his experience on the road. All arrangements having been completed, we agreed to start on Thursday, the 3rd of January, 1850, and at noon we were all in the saddle. It was a new and interesting sight to us to observe our little caravan winding through the narrow cactus-lined lanes, and then emerging into the broad sandy avenues of the pine-forest. The strange garb of our native attendants and muleteers, the gay trappings of our baggage animals, adorned with innumer- able little shells and bits of red, white, and green cloth, and the odd-looking tasseled bridles of our own steeds, formed a fantastic picture. From the pine-forest we descended to a lower part of the plain or promontory, where, amid dense groves of mulberries, rise up a number of tall and graceful palms. Farther to the south is an extensive tract covered with fine olive-trees. The heat here is intense during the summer months, as the sandy downs to the westward strongly reflect the sun's rays, while they almost completely check the fresh sea- breezes. In an hour we reached the foot of the mountains, and at once commenced the ascent of a bleak and rugged slope. The soft limestone rock projected on every side in rounded masses, and large boulders with smaller fragments almost covered the scanty soil. The scenery gradually becomes more picturesque and grand as a higher elevation is gained. The caravan-road, which, however, is little better than a goat-path, runs up along the summit of a great ridge, having on the south the deep Wady Shahrur, beautifully terraced, and clothed with the mul- 6 INTRODUCTION. Chap. I. berry and the vine; and on the north Wady Hummana, through which descends the river of Beyrout, in a swift and turbid course, to the plain. Some parts of the latter are wild in the extreme, dark frowning cliffs enclosing the torrent in a ravine so narrow that it seems like a great fissure in the mountain side. In an hour and a quarter from the plain we reached a large khan or caravanserai, with a well-built reservoir in front. Here commences the bed of red sandstone that extends from the Metn in a broad belt away southward along the slope of the moun- tains. This sandstone is soft and friable, and the disin- tegrated particles in many places cover the compact stone to a depth of several inches. It is strongly impregnated with iron, alum, and lime. It is evidently a formation of a much later period than the cretacious accumulations along the base of Lebanon ; and these again are later than the limestone which constitutes the great mass of the ridge. This change in the geological features gives variety to the scenery, and greatly enhances its beauty. The regular and graceful hills, which are characteristic of the sandstone strata, are widely diffused over the district of the Metn, and, in almost every spot where the husband- man cannot pursue his labours, are covered with forests of pine. These contrast well with the bold cliffs of the white limestone, here and there clothed in the bright green of the ilex. Noble prospects now open up before the eye as every new peak is surmounted. The junction of the wild glens of Hummana and Salima beneath the ruin-crowned heights of Deir-el-Kulah, on the north, forms a glorious picture ; while on every side villages appear clinging to the precipitous banks of wooded ravines. Ch.u>. I. BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS. 7 or scattered among the gardens of some peak or piece of table- land. ^ A short distance above the khan the road ascends an almost perpendicular cliff by an erratic zigzag route. On first examination one almost despairs of his horse being able to scale the steep, or to find footing along the shelv- ing rocks ; but the Syrian horses are accustomed to such paths, so that it seems but play for them to spring up the rugged and irregular stairs, or clamber along the narrow and slippery path, which the winter torrent has well-nigh carried away. It is somewhat startling to the inexpe- rienced traveller, too, when he clings to the saddle as his steed assumes a vertical attitude, or passes along the pre- cipice brink, where a single false step would hurl him hundreds of feet below. But experience teaches him to place confidence in his careful and wiry Arab, and to ride, without thought of fear, along paths where an English foxhunter would deem it madness to risk his neck. Another hour and a half we clambered up a stony ridge, covered here and there with vineyards and fig-orchards, and then reached Khan Hussein; and twenty minutes after we arrived at the brow of a deep ravine, high up on the opposite bank of which stood the village of Bhamdiin. Here we had arranged to spend the night in the summer- house of Mr. Smith. The direct road leads from this point across the glen, but it is fearfully steep, and for a lady even dangerous. We consequently followed the * The best account yet given of the geology of Lebanon is that by Dr. Anderson in Lynch's ' Official Report of the United States Expe- dition.' It is much to be regretted that his time did not allow him to notice the whole mountain range. His remarks on the southern section are very valuable. 8 INTRODUCTION. Chap. I. Damascus road, on its northern side, half an hour farther, when we turned to the right, and, sweeping round the head of the ravine and along its southern bank, we reached Bhamdun in half an hour. It was now quite dark, and we had considerable difficulty in finding our habitation. The house, when found, was cheerless enough, until a fire was kindled, our travelling beds prepared, and dinner served. The villagers soon pressed in to see and welcome us. Many of them have been for years under the instruc- tions of Mr. Smith and his associates, and are now consistent members of the Protestant Church that has been here formed in connexion with the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions. Schools have also been established, and these, with the other departments of the Mission work, have greatly increased in extent and efficiency since the period of my visit.^ January ^th. — We were up long before the dawn, and I had time to glance at the surrounding country ere the servants were ready for departure. Bhamdun is situated on the southern brow of a wild ravine, which commencing, as has been stated, half an hour higher up, runs down in a direction south-west for about three miles, when it sweeps round to the southward, increasing in depth and grandeur till it joins the Wady el-Kady, near the spot where it is crossed by the Deir el-Kamr and Beyrout road. The view from the village is very extensive; but the bare white ridges on the west and north ahnost cover the noble ^ It is scarcely necessary to inform the reader that the Eev. (now Dr.) Eli Smith was the associate of Dr. Robinson during his researches in Palestine. He is also author of * Researches in Armenia;' and is well known as a profound Arabic scholar. Cn-vr. I. BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS. 9 scenery of the Metn, and render the mountain prospect bleak and uninteresting. Beyrout and its promontory are visible, and beyond lies the vast expanse of the Mediter- ranean. So clear is the atmosphere and so commanding the position, that I have distinctly seen the island of Cyprus with the naked eye, and have observed more than once the noble summit of Olympus towering high above the neighbouring hills. Around Bhamdun are extensive beds of fossil shells, composed chiefly of the Ostraea, Chenopus, and Nerinea. The latter are found strewn in innumerable quantities over the surface of flat slabs; and, the shells being very small, they present a singular and beautiful appearance. The elevation of the village, as -hown by the aneroid, is 3338 feet. We mounted our horses at seven o'clock, and in half an hour reached the Damascus road near the Khan Ruweisat. The northern part of Wady Hummana noAV opened up to our view. It resembles a vast basin ; the bottom is finely cultivated in terraces, and the sides steep, and, in some places, precipices of naked rock. On the east, high above the neighbouring mountains, rises the snow-capped sum- mit of Jebel Kuneiyiseh. The road now leads over swelling ground, bare and destitute of features ; and after passing a rocky ridge, descends to Khan Mq^eirej, situated in a rugged dell. This we reached at 8'45. Above the khan the road is among the worst in Lebanon. A steep slope is thickly covered with huge fragments of sharp limestone rocks, amid which the poor animals can scarcely find a level spot to plant their feet, and often sink down helpless beneath their burdens. When this is surmounted, a narrow shelving path is before them, leading along the B 3 10 INTRODUCTION. Chap. I. side of a fearful precipice overhanging the great valley. In forty minutes we gained the highest point, having an elevation of 5600 feet. The view toward the west is now very grand, the eye following the windings of the wild glen of Hummana till it rests on the bright waters of the great sea far below. Half an hour more over bleak and unin- teresting ground brought us to the water-shed where two wadys commence on opposite sides of a narrow ridge. One flows westward, cutting through the mountains con- siderably to the south of the road ; while the other runs south-east direct to the Buka'a. The ordinary road leads down the left bank of the latter, by Khan Murad and Mekseh, to the plain ; but we took a path on the right bank, in order to visit a piece of sculpture described as lying on this route. The eastern slopes of Libanus, from the Damascus road southwards, are altogether different in character and aspect from the western. The descent is uniform and abrupt from the summits to the plain. Few spots are capable of cultivation, and the scenery is destitute of that boldness and grandeur everywhere seen amid the ravines and peaks on the west. About half-way down the moun- tain side we found the object we were in search of — the figure of a lion rudely sculptured on a rock. After a rapid descent we reached the village of Kubb Elias, on the border of the plain, at 11-5, one hour and a half below the water-shed. Adjoining the village, on the summit of a little conical hill, stand the ruins of an old castle, said to have been erected by one of the Druze piinces of Libanus ; and in the side of a lofty cliff, a little to the south, are a few excavated tombs, showing that this is the site of some Chap. I. BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS. 11 ancient town or village. A fine stream flows through it, watering gardens and fields below. We rested and spread our lunch on its green banks, beside a little grove of poplars. At one o'clock we again resumed our journey. The position of Mejdel, where we intended to spend the night, being now distinctly seen behind a little range of hills on the opposite side of the plain, we resolved, if possible, to take a straight course toward it. The caravan-road passes the village of Mekseh half an hour to the north, and runs thence toward 'Anjar ; should we succeed, therefore, in our attempt to cross the plain directly, we would consider- ably shorten our day's march. We were soon stopped, however, in our course by canals and marshes ; and it was only after a kind of steeple-chace over drains and ditches that we regained the great road, beside the bridge that crosses the first branch of the Litany, where we arrived at 2'30. Here is a fine stream, from thirty to forty feet wide, and so deep that it cannot easily be forded, flowing lazily through the centre of a plain of surpassing richness and beauty. The highest sources of this branch are in the neighbourhood of Ba'albek ; and its principal tributary is the Nahr Yahfufeh, which descends from Antilibanus. On the left bank is a large khan, and a fej^r minutes from it is the village of Merj. The elevation of the Bukaa at this spot I found to be 2573 feet. After an easy ride of thirty-five minutes more, through fields of great fertility, which only require proper cultivation to make them yield abundant crops, we reached the bridge over the second great branch of the Litany. The sources of this large stream are the fountains of 'xinjar and Shemsin, at the 12 INTRODUCTION. Chap. I. base of Antilibanus, about fifty minutes distant. The waters unite near a little tell, a quarter of an hour above the bridge, and meander across the plain till they join the western branch a short distance below Merj. To gain tliis bridge we had kept considerably to the northward, but on crossing it we turned to the right, and in twenty-five minutes reached the end of the line of little hills behind which Mejdel lies. The Damascus road follows a straight course to the entrance of Wady Harir, distant forty-five minutes. We skirted the end of the hills and turned to the right along their eastern base. Leaving the rest of the caravan in charge of Nikola, Dr. Paulding and I now set off at a gallop that we might have time to visit an interesting ruin on the summit of a hill above the village. In attempting to scale the steep slope my girths gave way, and it was only by embracing my old charger I was saved from a summerset over his tail. Notwithstanding the acci- dent, we soon reached the summit, and were agreeably surprised to find ourselves beneath the crumbling walls of a venerable temple. For the chaste simplicity and massive grandeur of its architecture, combined with the exquisite beauty of its situation, this ruin is not surpassed in Syria. The temple, whose ruins now cover the summit of the hill and are strewn over the vineyards that clothe its sides, is evidently of an early period — considerably older than those of Ba'albek and Palmyra, and indeed than most others now found in this country. Its extreme length may have been about eighty feet, and the breadth in pro- portion ; but this is only an estimate. The foundations of the cell are composed of huge blocks of limestone ; one I measured being twenty-four feet long and six high. These CiLU>. I. BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS. 13 project considerably beyond tlie face of the walls, but are contracted at the top by means of a bevelled moulding. The same peculiarity is found in all very ancient struc- tures of a similar kind. The interior was ornamented with fluted semi-columns of the Ionic order, supporting a fine cornice. Between the columns were niches for statues. A portico of massive columns stood in front, with antoe beliind. These columns are now completely prostrate ; but the huge fragments are scattered around, half covered with luxuriant vines. One portion of a shaft I measured was twenty-four feet long and four feet six inches in diameter. The door leading from the portico to the cell was lofty and spacious ; the jambs were massive monoliths, riclily moulded. The view from the ruins is magnificent, embracing the whole plain of the Buka'a with the noble mountain- chains on each side — northward far as the eye can see, and southward till the hills close and form the sublime gorge of the Litany. The plain resembles a vast lake, so smooth and flat is its surface ; and the strange little artificial mounds which here and there appear might pass for islands. Often have I sat beneath the shade of this old temple, alone and in the company of friends, ad- miring the glorious panorama, and gazing alternately on verdant plain and rugged mountain-side — now viewing the snow-capped summit of Hermon proudly raising its head high above the Antilibanus range, and now turning to look at its rivals Sunnln and Akkar."* But how came here this splendid monument of the genius and taste of a bygone age ? Was it built to stand * This is the general name of the lofty moiintaiu range north of the cedars. 14 INTRODUCTIOX. Chap. I. in solitude, or was it intended to adorn the environs of some proud city, and to serve as a monument of the wealth and piety of its inhabitants ? Neither on the hill itself nor along its base are there any traces of ancient structures; but if we turn our eyes to the north-east, toward the spot where, some three miles distant, the great fountain of 'Anjar bursts from beneath the mountain-side and diffuses freshness and verdure all around, we can observe numbers of blackened heaps and shapeless masses of stone strewn over the smooth plain. An examination of this place may tend to solve the mystery. On the 19th of May 1854 I visited the fountain of 'Anjar and the ruins near it with two friends.^ I had previously known that these ruins marked the site of the ancient city of Chalcis, and had read the able article of Dr. Eobinson in the 'Bibliotheca Sacra/ on the identifica- tion of its position. This Chalcis is to be distinguished from other cities of the same name. Josephus mentions it as situated under Mount Libanus f and Strabo leaves it without a doubt that it was near the Antilibanus, and south of Heliopolis."^ That the city stood here will not be doubted by any one who will examine authorities and visit the spot. We observed at the fountain the remains of a large reservoir intended to raise the water above its natural level ; and also traces of an aqueduct running along the high ground toward the ruins. The city itself is completely prostrate : the foundations of the walls alone * Robert Ross, of Bladensburg, Esq., and Edwin Freshfield, Esq. ^ Ant. xiv. 7, 4, and Bel. Jud. i. 9, 2. Pliny says the territory of Chalcis is the most fertile in Syria (v. 23). ' Lib. xvi. Chap. I. BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS. 15 can be traced, enclosing a rectangular space about a mile in circumference. In the interior are a few mounds covered with soil, from which some hewn stones and pieces of broken columns may be seen here and there projecting. These are the only remnants of palaces and temples. The site was well chosen, and admirably fitted for the capital of a province. In front is a plain of vast extent and great fertility, while close at hand is an abun- dant supply of purest water. Of the origin of the city nothing is now known, and there are no ruins remaining that would tend to mark the age of its erection. There are no evidences of very re- mote antiquity. Ptolemy, the son of Mennaeus, is men- tioned by Strabo as ruler of an extensive district of which Chalcis was the capital. It appears to have included Heliopolis and Itursea, with the mountain region lying between ; but the proper territory of Chalcis was the rich plain of Marsyas, embracing the southern part of the Bukaa, and probably Wady et-Teim and the Merj 'Ayun.^ After Syria was conquered by the Eomans Ptolemy con- tinued to hold his possessions. He was succeeded by his son Lysanias, who transferred the seat of government to Abila, now Siik-Wady-Barada ;® and upon his murder by order of Mark Antony the provinces passed for a time into the hand of Zenodorus the celebrated robber.^ The territory of Chalcis was now separated from the other dis- tricts with which it had been united under the sway of Ptolemy, but it does not distinctly appear who were its governors between the death of Zenodorus, B.C. 20, and ^ Strab. xvi. s Joseph. Ant. xiv. 13, 3. » Id. XV. 4, 1, and 10, 1. Strab. xvi. 16 IXTEODUCTION. Chap. I. the time when it was given by the Emperor Claudius to Herod, son of Aristobulus and grandson of Herod the Great, A.D. 41.^ It may probably have formed part of the tetrarchy of Lysanias, who is mentioned in Luke iii. 1. On the death of Herod Chalcis was bestowed upon Herod Agrippa II., who held it for four years until he was ad- vanced to a more important province, when it reverted to Aristobulus, Herod's son.^ This is the last notice we find of it as a separate principality. It was afterwards consti- tuted a part of the Roman province, and received the name of Flavia. It would appear that ere many years it fell into ruin, or at least dwindled away into an insignifi- cant village, as there is no mention made of it in any of the Ecclesiastical Notices. Mohammedan writers never speak of it ; and the only reference made to the site is by Abulfeda^^ho says that near the village of Mejdel 'Anjar are great riiins. He probably alludes to the temple.'' This temple doubtless owes its origin to some of the princes of the ancient city of Chalcis. It was a common practice with the members of the Herodian family to erect temples or found cities in honour of those emperors who conferred important favours upon them. Perhaps Herod Agrippa IL, whose taste for architecture is well known, constructed this temple as a monument of his gratitude to Claudius for bestowing on him the little principality in which it was situated. Notwithstanding the most care- ful examination I was unable to find a single inscription near the ruins, and I have never seen any historical notice that would tend to throw light upon the origin of this 2 Joseph. Bel. Jud. ii. 12, 1. 3 j^^ ^^^ 7^ j^ * Tabula Syriaca, ed. Reisk, p. 20. 