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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I f ^Ji, -^^fj--^'-^^ 1 1. ?• < / AVrrj-Pliri/-lm<-i/ 3 at ■^'aj)(>yOiew^M.'.ir <.^£^ C^-i^ /•^/S' HAUNTS OF OLD LONDON BEING TWENTY-FIVE ETCHINGS OF LITERARY AND HISTORICAL LONDON IN PHOTOGRAVURE BY JOSEPH PENNELL BOSTON LE ROY PHILLIPS J HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY BEQUEST OF MRS. HARRIET J. BRADBUfTY JUNE 26, 1930 Published October igi4 Pillans^ Wils0H, Printers, Edinburgh THE LIST OF TITLES I STATUE OF CHARLKS I II THE GATE OF THE TEMPLE III CHELSEA IV ST BARTHOLOMEW'S GATE V PONDS AT HAMPSTEAD VI LINDSEY HOUSES VII DOORWAY, Clifford's inn VIII POND AT CLAPHAM IX HENRY VII. CHAPEL, WESTMINSTER ABBEY X SPITALFIELDS CHURCH XI HOUSE WHERE WHISTLER DIED XII HAYMARKET THEATRE XIII CLAPHAM COMMON XIV GREAT COLLEGE STREET XV STEPS, BRITISH MUSEUM XVI ST BARTHOLOMEW'S GRAVEYARD XVII POND, KENSINGTON GARDENS XVIII CHEYNE WALK, CHELSEA XIX ST John's gate, clerkenwell XX COWLEY street XXI GREAT TREE, CHELSEA XXII BUNYAN'S TOMB, BUNHILL FIELDS XXIII THE CHARTERHOUSE XXIV GREAT GATE, LINCOLN'S INN XXV CLOTH FAIR — THE LAST OF OLD LONDON STATU* OF CHARLES I THIS MBMORIAL OP *<CHARLBS THE MARTYR" HAS A ROMANTIC HISTORY. TRULY DESCRIBBD BY WALPOLK AS A '* NOBLB BQUBSTRIAN STATUE, IN WHICH THE COMMANDING GRACE OF THE FIGURE, AND THE EX- QUISITE FORM OF THE HORSE ARE STRIKING TO THE MOST UNPRACTISED EYE," IT WAS THE WORK OF LE SOEUR, AND WAS SOLD DURING THE COMMONWEALTH TO A BRAZIER ON THE STRICT CONDITION THAT HE BROKE IT UP. INSTEAD OFDOINGSO, HE BURIED IT AND PRODUCED IT AGAIN AT THE RESTORATION, WHEN IT WAS SET U P WHERE IT NOW STANDS,ON A PEDESTAL DE- SIGNED BY WREN, AND EXECUTED BY GRINLING GIB- BONS. HERE, OBLIVIOUS TO THE "WEARINESS, THE FEVER, ANDTHEFRET"0FHUMANITY SURGING ROUND HIM THROUGH THE CENTURIES, AND BURIED IN THOUGHTS TOO DEEP FOR TEARS, CHARLES GAZES IN CALM DIGNITY DOWN WHITEHALL TO THE VERY SCENE OFTHE TRAGEDY OF 3OTH JANUARY 1649. II THE GATE OF THE TEMPLE THIS IS THE BNTRANCBTO WHAT WAS ONCE A STRONG- HOLD OF THE KNIGHTS TEMPLARS — WHOSE BEAUTI- FUL CHURCH STILL REMAINS — ^AND IS NOW A QUAR- TER MORE HAUNTED BY LITERARY GHOSTS THAN ANY OTHER IN THE METROPOLIS. THE ROOM ABOVE THE ARCHWAY WAS BUILT IN THE TIME OF JAMES I., AND BELONGED TO HIS LAMENTED SON, HENRY, PRINCEOF WALES. EVERYWHERE AROUND THE TEMPLE ONE FEELS THAT "ANTIQUE AIR" WHICH SO MUCH AP- PEALED TO THE WISTFUL MIND OF CHARLES LAMB. HE, OF COURSE, IS THE GENIUS LOCI TO THE VISITOR OF TO- DAY, THOUGH SHARING HIS HONOURS WITH JOHNSON AND GOLDSMITH, THE LATTER OF WHOM SLEEPS HIS LAST SLEEP IN THE TEMPLE GRAVEYARD. BOSWELL RESIDED HERE, AND DICKENS, WHO WAS STEEPED IN ITS ATMOSPHERE, MADE ITTHESCENEOFSOMETOUCH- ING EPISODES. A MORE VIGOROUS GHOST IS THAT OF SARAH, THE GREAT DUCHESS OF MARLBOROUGH. SHE CAME ONE DAY TO SEE HER LEGAL ADVISER, AND BE- HAVED OUTRAGEOUSLY WHEN SHE FOUND HE WAS AB- SENT. "I COULD NOT TELL WHO SHE WAS," SAID THE SERVANT AFTERWARDS, "FOR SHE WOULD NOT GIVE ME HER NAME, BUT SHE SWORE SO DREADFULLY THAT I AM SURE SHE MUST BE A LADY OF HIGH DEGREE." Ill CHELSEA CHELSEA, AS THIS ETCHING SHOWS, CAN BE PICTU- RESQUE TO-DAY, THOUGH IN A DIFFERENT WAY FROM THE TIME WHEN IT WAS A QUIET COUNTRY VILLAGE, AND THE OLD CHELSEA BUN-HOUSE WAS A FAyOURITE RESORT OFTHE COURT. CARLYLE DESCRIBED CHELSEA IN HIS TIMEAS^'ASINGULAR HETEROGENEOUS KIND OF SPOT, VERY DIRTY AND CONFUSED IN SOME PLACES, QUITE BEAUTIFUL IN OTHERS, ABOUNDING IN ANTI- QUITIES AND THE TRACES OF GREAT MEN." IT IS THE LASTOFTHESE CHARACTERISTICS WHICH IS THE PRIN- CIPAL ATTRACTION OF CHELSEA, FOR ALL THE FAMOUS MEN WHO HAVE BEEN ASSOCIATED WITH IT WOULD BE TOO NUMEROUS TO MENTION. ITS EARLY FAME AROSE FROM THE FACT THAT ** BLESSED THOMAS MORE " LIVED THERE THE BEAUTIFUL FAMILY LIFE WHOSE VERY PEACEFULNESS AT THAT STORMY PERIOD MAY SEEM TO HAVE PRESAGED ITS BLOODY END. HE WAS VISITED BY ERASMUS, AND IN HIS CHELSEA HOME HOL- BEIN WAS PRESENTED TO HENRY VIII., AN INTRODUC- TION WHICH HAD ARTISTIC RESULTS KNOWN TO ALL THE WORLD. IV GATE OF ST BARTHOLOMEWS THE GREAT THIS POINTBD BARLY ENGLISH ARCHWAY, WITH ITS DOG-TOOTH ORNAMENTATION, FORMS THE ENTRANCE TO THE SPLENDID OLD NORMAN PRIORY CHURCH, WHICH, AFTER MANY VICISSITUDES, SURVIVES TO- DAY — ^AN IMPRESSIVE RELIC OF THE REIGN OF HEN- RY I. IN IT HOGARTH WAS BAPTISED. THE ARCH ITSELF LOOKS ON TO SMITHFIELD — GROUND CONSE- CRATED BY THE BLOOD OF MANY MARTYRS. ONLY A FEW YARDS AWAY A LARGE STONE COMMEMORATES THE DEATH ON THIS SPOT OF THREE OF THE TWO HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-SEVEN PEOPLE WHO, IN THE REIGN OF QUEEN MARY, *< SUFFERED DEATH BY FIRE FOR THE FAITH OF CHRIST." HERE ALSO DIED SIR WILLIAM WALLACE, THE SCOTTISH PATRIOT, AND WAT TYLER. NEAR THE ARCH IS THE ENTRANCE TO LITTLE BRITAIN, ONCE A LANE OF BOOKSHOPS AND A FAMOUS LITERARY HAUNT ; AND QUITE CLOSE ALSO IS MILTON STREET, THE ORIGINAL ** GRUB STREET" OF INKY MEMORIES, AND SO CALLED NOW AFTER THE POET, WHOOCCASIONALLY RESIDED IN THIS QUARTER. PONDS AT HAMPSTEAD HAMPSTKAD RIVALS CHELSEA IN LITERARY AND AR- TISTIC MEMORIES. IT STANDS HIGH AND IS ALMOST ALWAYS SWEPT BY A CLEAN, HEALTHY, REFRESHING BREEZE, WHILE THE HEATH, THE ONLY TRULY RURAL GROUND EASILY REACHED FROM THE CITY, IS A PRICK- LESS BOON TO TIRED LONDONERS. ITS BLUE HORIZONS HAVE BEEN PAINTED TIME AND AGAIN BY CONSTABLE WHO WAS A RESIDENT. LEIGH HUNT AND KEATS LIVED AT HAMPSTEAD, AND THE GREATER PART OF ENDY- MION WAS WRITTEN THERE. IT WAS THE SCENE OF THE MEETINGS OF THE KIT-KAT CLUB, FREQUENTED BY ADDISON, STEELE, AND CONGRBVB, AND OTHER WITS OF THE PERIOD, AND HAS ASSOCIATIONS WITH LAW AND POLITICS IN THE PERSON OF THE GREAT LORD MANSFIELD. VI LINDSEY HOUSES THIS IS ONB OF THE OLDEST BUILDINGS IN CHELSEA AND IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE BEEN DESIGNED BY WREN. IT IS NOW DIVIDED INTO FIVE HOUSES, BUT WAS ORIGINALLY ONE, BEING BUILT FOR TURQUBT DE MAYERNE, WHO WAS PHYSICIAN TO HENRY IV. OF FRANCE. IT AFTERWARDS BECAME THE PROPERTY OF THE EARLS OF LINDSEY, ONE OF WHOM MARRIED THE WIDOW OF CRUEL JUDGE JEFFREYS, AND WAS LATER THE HEADQUARTERS OF A MORAVIAN SETTLEMENT IN CHELSEA. ITS MOST DISTINGUISHED RESIDENT IN MODERN TIMES WAS WHISTLER. VII DOORWAY, CLIFFORD'S INN THIS INN OP CHANCERY WAS SO CALLED AFTER ROBERT DE CLIFFORD, WHO WAS GRANTED THE PROPERTY BY EDWARD II. IN ITS HALL ALL THE DISPUTES THAT AROSE AFTER THE GREAT FIRE WERE SETTLED BY SIR MATTHEW HALE ; AND IT HAS NUMBERED AMONG ITS RESIDENTS SIR EDWARD COKE, JOHN SELDEN, AND HARRISON THE REGICIDE. HERE AT NO. 1 3 DWELT GEORGE DYER, THE AMICUS REDIVIVUS OF ELI A, A CUR- IOUS CREATURE OF WHOM WHEATLEY SAYS THAT HE " BECAME SO WEDDED TO THESE CHAMBERS THAT HE AT LAST WEDDED THE LAUNDRESS ALSO, A VERY WOR- THY WOMAN BUT * NOT LITERATE * " : AND NEAR BY IS ST DUNSTAN'S CHURCH, OF WHICH DONNE WAS VICAR, NUMBERING AMONG HIS CONGREGATION HIS FUTURB BIOGRAPHER, IZAAK WALTON. <». VIII POND AT CLAPHAM LIKE ALL THB SUBURBS OP LONDON CLAPHAM HAS ITS MBMORIBS OF THR GRBAT MBN OF THR PAST. WILLIAM WILBBRFORCR LIVRD IN IT FOR MANY YEARS, AND AT NUMBER 5 THE PAVEMENT WAS PASSED THB HAPPY CHILDHOOD OF THOMAS BABINGTON MACAULAY. "POOR, SILLY, conceited" MR SECRETARY PEPYS QUITTED HIS GARRULOUS LIFE AT CLAPHAM IN 1703. IX HENRY VII. CHAPEL, WESTMINSTER ABBEY ''mortality, behold and fbar, what a change of flesh is herb ! here are sands, ignoble things, dropt from the ruined sides of kings : here's A WORLD OF POMP AND STATE BURIED IN DUST ONCE DEAD BY FATE." SO WROTE BEAUMONT ABOUT THIS EXQUISITE BUILD- ING, DESCRIBED BY RUSKIN AS ''THE MOST BEAUTI- FUL CHAPEL IN THE WORLD." IT WAS BUILT AS A MAUSOLEUM FOR HIMSELF BY HENRY VII., AND, CON- TAINING ALSO THE BONES OF HIS WIFE ELIZABETH, IT COMMEMORATES THE HAPPY UNION OF LANCASTER AND YORK IN ENGLISH HISTORY. IT IS INDEED A NATIONAL VALHALLA. THE BEAUTY OF THE EXTERIOR SPEAKS OF THE PEACE WHICH REIGNS WITHIN — ^THE EVERLASTING PEACE OF RECONCILING DEATH. THE CHAPEL IS BUILTON THESITE OFTHB HOUSE IN WHICH CHAUCER DIED, AND JOSEPH ADDISON RESTS BENEATH ITS PAVEMENT. MANY OTHER GREAT NAMES ARE FOUND ON ITS MANIFOLD TOMBS. EDWARD VI. OF GRACIOUS MEMORY SLEEPS QUIETLY WITHIN A FEW PACES OF THE DAUGHTER OF OLIVER CROMWELL. MOST IMPRESSIVE OF ALL, ELIZABETH AND MARY, SUCCESS- IVE QUEENS OF ENGLAND — ^THOSE "SISTERS OF BIT- TER HATE AND STRANGE DESTINY " — LIE TOGETHER IN A CONTRACTED SEPULCHRE, THEIR LITTLE LIVES ROUNDED OFF BY THE PIOUS INSCRIPTION OF JAMBS I., " CLOSING," AS DEAN STANLEY SAID, "THE LONG WAR OF THE REFORMATION : " REGNO CONSORTES ET URN A, HIC OBDORMIMUS ELIZABETHA ET MARIA SORORES, INSPE RESURRECTIONIS. WELL MAY THE POET CRY, " IN GREATNESS IS NO TRUST." ^ ^ /> SPITALFIELDS CHURCH SPITALFIBLDS IS A DISTRICT IN THE BAST OF LONDON, NOW CHIEFLY KNOWN AS THE CENTRE OF THE SILK- WEAVING INDUSTRY. THE NAME IS AN ABBREVIATION OF HOSPITAL FIELDS, DERIVED FROM THE FACT THAT THE FIELDS ON WHICH THE HOUSES NOW STAND ONCE BELONGED TO THE PRIORY OF ST MARY SPITAL, FOUND- ED IN 1 197 BY WALTER BRUNE, AND NOW REPRESENT- ED BY CHRIST CHURCH, SPITALFIELDS, THE SUBJECT OF THIS ETCHING. THE SILK INDUSTRY HERE REVIVSS POIGNANT MEMORIES. IT WAS FOUNDED BY THE FRENCH REFUGEES WHO WERE EXPELLED FROM FRANCE AT THE REVOCATION OF THE EDICT OF NANTES, AND MANY OF THE INHABITANTS STILL HAVE FRENCH NAMES OR OBVIOUS ENGLISH FORMS OF FRENCH NAMES. THE CHURCH WAS BUILT IN I729 BY HAWKSMORE, A FAVOURITE PUPIL OF WREN, AND WAS ONCE THE LARGEST MODERN CHURCH IN LONDON. XI HOUSE WHERE WHISTLER DIED TO MANY PBOPLB WHO ARE MORE INTERESTED IN ART THAN IN LITERATURE, THE NAME OF CHELSEA IS SYN- ONYMOUS WITH THAT OF WHISTLER. IT WAS HERB, WITH THE MYSTERIOUSRIVEREVERBEFOREHIM,THAT HE DISCOVERED AND REVEALED TO THE WORLD THE WONDROUS ARTISTIC QUALITIES OF WHARVES AND UGLY BRIDGES WHEN THEY ARE SHROUDED IN DARK- NESS OR FOG. HE HAS DESCRIBED THE FEELINGS, TO WHICH WE OWE HIS PICTURES, IN AN ELOQUENT PAS- SAGE: "THE EVENING MIST CLOTHES THE RIVERSIDE WITH POETRY, AS WITH A VEIL, AND THE POOR BUILD- INGS LOSE THEMSELVES INTHE DIM SKY,ANDTHETALL CHIMNEYS BECOME CAMPAN/U, AND THE WAREHOUSES ARE PALACES IN THE NIGHT, AND THE WHOLE CITY HANGS IN THE HEAVENS, AND FAIRYLAND IS BBPORB US." XII HAYMARKET THEATRE THIS PINB BUILDING DATBS FROM 182O, THOUGH IT OCCUPIBS ALMOST THB SAME SITE AS A PRBVIOUS PLAYHOUSE KNOWN AS THE LITTLE THEATRE. MANY NAMES FAMOUS IN THEATRICAL ANNALS ARE ASSOCI- ATED WITH THE HAYMARKET — CHARLES KEAN, KEMBLE, MACREADY, HELEN FAUCIT, AND SAMUEL PHELPS HAVE ALL PLAYED HERB. IN MORE MODERN TIMES IT WAS THE SCENBOFTHE BANCROFT TRIUMPHS AND OF SIR HERBERT TRBB*S EARLY SUCCESSES AS A MANAGER. IT SAW THB FIRST PRODUCTION OF BARRIB'S UTTLE minister, and on ITS STAGE " BUNTY " FIRST BEGAN TO PULL THB STRINGS OF FAME. A CLAFHAM COMMON CLAPHAU IS CHIBFLY KNOWN FOR II FINBOFBN SPACBOFGI [, NOW A CROWDED SI HBNDBDBVIZAAK WALTON FOR 1 I GREAT COLLEGE STREET T SEEMS BATHED II TBOOGH BUT A BON'S aunt, "the affectionate CI TBNDBII YEARS," LIVED HERE, AND THE GREAT HIS' ' TORIAN STAVED WITH HER FOR SOME TIME; WHILE AT NUMBER 35, KEATS HAD LODGINGS FROM WHICH SOMB OF THE LRTTERS TO FANNY BRAWNE ARE ADDRESSED. r XV STEPS, BRITISH MUSEUM THS BRITISH MUSBUM IS ONB OP THE MOST DIGN- IFIED BUILDINGS IN LONDON. FOUNDED ALMOST BY CHANCB, IT HAS GROWN BY CONSTANT ADDITIONS TO AN ENORMOUS EXTENT, AND MANY MEN, WHO AFTER- WARDS ACHIEVED GREAT FAME, BEGAN THEIR CAR- EERS BY BURROWING AMONG ITS INEXHAUSTIBLE LITERARY TREASURES. IT MAY INDEED BE CALLED THE LITERARY CLEARING-HOUSE OF THE ENGLISH- SPEAKING RACES. IT STANDS ON THE SITE OF THB FAMOUS OLD MONTAGUE HOUSE, ONE OF LONDON'S NOBLEST PRIVATE RESIDENCES, AND IN THE HOUSE AT ITS WESTERN CORNER, NOW REBUILT AND KNOWN AS 9OGREATRUSSBLL STREET, SHBLLEYONCB LODGED. XVI ST BARTHOLOMEWS GRAVEYARD THIS "CRAZY LITTLE GRAVEYARD " IS TYPICAL OF WHAT ONE SOMETIMES FINDS IN THE MOST UNEXPECT- ED PLACES IN LONDON. ENTERING FROM THE STIR OF SMITHFIELD MARKET AND THE DARK AND CROWDED PURLIEUS OF LITTLE BRITAIN, THE TRAVELLER IS SOOTHED BY THE UNEXPECTED GREENERY OF THE ONE OR TWO TREES, AND THE RATHER ATTENUATED GRASS OP THE GRAVES. WITH THE CHURCH ITSELF, THIS IS ALL THAT REMAINS OF WHAT WAS ONCE ONE OF THE LARGEST RELIGIOUS HOUSES IN IX>NDON. EVERY GOOD FRIDAY THE GRAVEYARD IS THE SCENE OF A CURIOUS CEREMONY WHOSE ORIGIN IS BURIED IN ANTIQUITY. THERE IS ASERMON BYTHE RECTOR, ANDTHBRBAFTBR TWBNTY-ONR SIXPENCES ARE DROPPED AND PICKED UP BY AN EQUAL NUMBER OF PREVIOUSLY SELECTED WOMEN. ^M POND, KENSINGTON GARDENS PALACl WHIC H IS NO PALACE, GARDEN S WHICH ABB NO GARDBNS, SSBPBNTINB R A RIVER." WHBTHSK IT BK TRUE OR NOT, THIS IS A SEVEKB JUDGMBNT, ND KENSINGTON HAS PLBNTT OF BUILT BY WREN FOR WILLIAM IL, AND QUBEN MARY SO DID QUEEN ANNE. HERB QUEEN VICTORIA WA MPLK, HAPPY CHILDltOOD ; HE HISTORIC SCBNBWHRNS BV THR ARCH tSerou»"k THAT SHE WAS qUBBN OF ENGLAND. children's MEDITBERAN8AN," AN THE REAL PBTBR-PAN SP RIT WHICH REIGNS IN T BSE GARDBNS .S IHSPIRRD barrib's ^-'' ■' u^iF-^m&rxy^^^ i J XVIII CHEYNE WALK, CHELSEA INNUMBRABLB A&B THB ASSOCIATIONS OFTHIS STRKBT WITH LITBRATURB AND ART. AT NUMBER 4, GBORGB ELIOT DIBD IN 1880, IN THB HOUSE WHICH WAS PRB- VIOUSLY OCCU PIED BY DANIEL MACLISB,THE PAINTER. NUMBER 16— queen's HOUSE, AS IT IS CALLED^HAS A ROMANTIC HISTORY. THE ORIGINAL HOUSE ON THIS SPOT WAS ASSOCIATED WITH HENRY VIII. »S QUEEN, KATHERINE PARR, AND WITH HIS DAUGHTER ELIZABETH, AND THB PRESENT HOUSE IS BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN BUILT BY WREN FOR CATHERINE OF BRAGANZA, THB NEGLECTED WIFE OF CHARLES II. IT BECAME THE RESIDENCE EVENTUALLY, AFTER HIS wife's death, of DANTE GABRIEL ROSSETTI, WHO HERE GATHERED TOGETHER HIS EXTRAORDINARY COLLECTION OF STRANGE ANIMALS, AND SHARED THB HOUSE FOR ATIME WITH MEREDITH AND SWINBURNE. HOLMAN HUNT ONCE LIVED IN CHEYNE WALK, AND AT NUMBER II9, TURNER HAD THE SMALL HOUSE WHENCE HE VIEWED THE WONDERFUL EVENING SKIES, WHICH SO FILLED HIS SOMBRE MIND THAT ON HIS DEATH-BED HE CRIED ALOUD WITH ALMOST HIS LAST BREATH "THE SUN IS GOD." COWLEV STREET THISQUIKTSBCLUDKDCORNRBOF LONDON, WITH ITS FllIBNDl.y GEORGIAN HOUSB5, DOOMED TO DISAPPEAR RRR LONG, DERIVES ITS NAME— NOT FROM THB POET, THOUGH HE CORIOUSLV ENOUGH WASATSCHOOL AT WBSTHINSTRR, CLOSE AT HAND — BCT FROM ITS ONE- TON BOOTH, THE ACTOR, THE NATIVE OF COWLBY, 11 SAVINGS m PROPERTY II IS A UONUUENT TO HIS HEMORV IN THE A IRECTED BY HIS WIFE, WHO IS THB " SANTLOW, FAU'D FOR DANi PRIKNDS. j;4."a^ .J^ GREAT TREE, CHELSEA TKB FBWTKEKS THAT FLOURISH INCHBLSBANI O MOST VISITORS H CHELSEA AT ONE CONNBCTION WITH IT HAS BBBN TBACBD [N RKFBK- BNCB TO OTHBR BTCHINCS IN THIS BOOK. QDITB BOHEMIANS OF THB MOST IRRBFRB5SI8LB TVPK, OF WHOSB HAPPY- GO-LUCKY DOMBSTIC AKKAKGBUBNTS CAKLYLB HAS GIVBN A SARDONICALLY I DBCKIPTION. i XXII BUNYAN'S TOMB, BUNHILL FIELDS HBRB MAY ONB FBBL THB UTTER DESOLATION OP DEATH, IN A PIECE OF GROUND OF PERHAPS FOUR ACRES IN EXTENT — OF WHICH NOT A SQUARE YARD IS WITHOUT ITS HUMAN DUST — THICKLY STUDDED WITH GRBY AND GRIMY HEADSTONES IN EVERY ATTI- TUDE OF FATIGUE AND DESPAIR, AND WITH ALL THB SURROUNDINGS CALCULATED TO POINT THE MOURN- FUL MORAL OF THE PLACE. IT SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN VERY EARLY ASSOCIATED WITH MORTALITY'S SAD END, FOR THE NAME " BUNHILL" IS DERIVED FROM BONB- HILL. NOT FAR FROM BUNYAN LIES DEFOE, THE AU- THOR OF ROBINSON CRUSOE, AND HENRY, RICHARD, AND WILLIAM CROMWELL ARE ALL CLOSE AT HAND. DR ISAAC WATTS SLEEPS PEACEFULLY WITHIN SOME YARDS OF THE MOTHER OF THB WESLEYS. SADDEST OF ALL, HERB IS THE GRAVE OF WILLIAM BLAKE, A DREARY RESTING-PLACE FOR ONE WHO SO LOVED "ENGLAND'S GRBEN AND PLEASANT LAND." XXIII CHARTERHOUSE THIS ARCHWAY IN THE PERPENDICULAR STYLE LEADS INTO THE CHARTERHOUSE, WHICH WAS ONCE A POW- ERFUL CARTHUSIAN MONASTERY. IT WAS SUPPRESSED BY HENRY VIII. , BECAME THE PROPERTY OF THE DUKE OF NORFOLK, AND WAS FINALLY SOLD TO SIR THOMAS SUTTON, WHO CONVERTED IT INTO A HOSPITAL FOR EIGHTY POOR MEN AND FORTY POOR BOYS. MANY MEN WHO AFTERWARDS BECAME FAMOUS HAVE BENEFITED BY THIS GRACIOUS CHARITY. FOXE OF THE BOOK OF MARTYRS FAME STAYED IN THE CHARTERHOUSE WITH HIS PATRON, THE DUKE OF NORFOLK. WESLEY RECEIVED HIS SCHOOLING HERE, AS DID ALSO ADDI- SON AND STEELE, WHOSE FAMOUS LITERARY PARTNER- SHIP IN AFTER YEARS WAS THUS ANTICIPATED BY THEIR ASSOCIATION IN BOYHOOD. ANOTHER PUPIL WAS LOVELACE, IMMORTALISED BY HIS LINES THAT <* STONE WALLS DO NOT A PRISON MAKE, NOR IRON BARS A CAGE." BUT THE CHARTERHOUSE IS BOUND UP FOR EVER WITH THE MEMORY OF WILLIAM MAKEPEACE THACK- ERAY AND THAT OTHER DISTINGUISHED ALUMNUS^ COLONEL NEWCOME, WHOSE DEATH WITHIN ITS PRE- CINCTS HAS BEEN DESCRIBED BY HIS CREATOR AND FELLOW-CARTHUSIAN IN ONE OF THE MOST MOVING PASSAGES IN ENGLISH LITERATURE. GREAT GATE, LINCOLN'S INN WHO LIVBS OH IN LITBBABY KISTORV JONSON." SIR THOMAS HORB AND WBRB HAD ROOMS. SOUK ;S RBPOBTBD BY CKARLKS DICKBNS IN , :B TKAHSACTBD IN THB GKEAT HALL CLOTH FAIR— THE LAST OF OLD LONDON THR PAST, FOB THINGS IRRRTRIBV^ HOSFHKRS. ITS QUAIt4T RICKBTY- IBS * MBRCHANT PRINCKS, AMDOKB TOTTEBING BU lU JINGISIBPORTBD TO H A VB B BLONGED TO THBBARLOP' NNUAL FESTIVAL FAMODS "COURT OF PIB POWDRB," WHBN WEIGHT! ;ttANTRD. 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