None
l6-i 32-2 13.440 17.04 296.83 i8-l 36-2 15,120 16.89 294.22 20- 1 40-2 16,800 15 24 265.48 22-1 44-2 18,480 13.86 241.44 24-1 48-2 20,160 12.69 221 0 16-1 52-2 21,840 11.72 204 . 16 28-1 56-2 23,520 10.88 189.52 30-1 60-2 25,200 10.20 177.68 32-1 64-2 26,880 9.52 165.83 34-1 68-2 28,560 8.96 156.08 36-1 72-2 30,240 8.46 ' 147-37 38-1 76-2 31,920 8.02 139.70 40-1 80-2 33 »6oo 7.62 132.75 42-1 84-2 35,280 7.26 1 26 . 46 44-1 88-2 36,960 6.92 120.54 46-1 92-2 38,640 6.62 "5 32 48-1 96-2 40,320 6.34 110.44 SO- 1 100-2 42,000 6.08 105.91 52-1 104-2 43,680 5.86 102.08 54-1 108-2 45,360 5 64 98.24 56-1 II 2-2 47,040 5-44 . 94 76 58-1 1 16-2 48,720 525 91.45 60-1 120-2 50,400 5.08 88.48 62-1 124-2 52,080 4.92 85.90 64-1 128-2 53,760 4.76 82.91 66-1 132-2 55,440 4.62 80.48 68-1 136-2 57,120 4.48 78.04 70-1 140-2 58,800 4.35 75 77 72-1 144-2 60,480 423 73.68 74-1 148-2 62,160 4.12 71-77 76-1 152-2 63,840 4.01 6Q.85 78-1 156-2 65,520 3 91 68.11 80-1 160-2 67,200 3-8i 66.37 82-1 164-2 68,880 372 64.80 84-1 168-2 70.560 3.63 63 23 86-1 172-2 72,240 3-55 61.84 88-1 176-2 73,920 3 46 60.27 90-1 180-2 75,600 3 39 58-95 92-1 184-2 77,280 3 31 57.65 94-1 188-2 78,960 324 $6.44 96-1 192-2 80,640 3.18 55 39 98-1 196-2 82,320 3 " 54 17 lOO-I 200-2 84,000 3 05 53 13 I02-I 204-2 85,680 2.90 52.08 1 04- 1 208-2 87.360 2.03 51.04 IO6-I 212-2 89,040 2.88 50.16 IO8-I 216-2 90,720 2.82 49.12 IIO-I 220-2 92,400 2.77 48.25 1 1 2-1 224-2 94,080 2.72 47.48 II4-I 228-2 95,760 2.67 46.51 1 16-1 232-2 97.440 2.63 45 81 I18-I 236-2 99,120 2.58 44 94 I 20-1 240-2 100,800 2.54 44 24 Digitized by Google ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS AND YARNS 591 The size or count of artificial silk is expressed in deniers corresponding to the number of grams in a length of 9000 metres. This is very close to the Lyons denier. (e) Linen, Jute, etc. — The count of linen yarn* is based on the number of " cuts " of 300 yards in one pound, t The following table gives the counts of linen yarns by the weight in grains .of 300 yards (or " cut ") : 100 no 120 130 140 150 160 170 180 190 200 210 220 230 240 250 ir 70.00,, 63.641 58.33, 53.85|! 50.00I 46.67 I 43.75'j 41.18, 3889', 36.84; 35 00 i 33-33 ' 31.82I 30.43 29.17, 28. GO I H 300 Yards Weigh Grains. |i 0^0 II 2; ^ 1 2 ^ z, 260 26.92 420 16.67; 580 12.07; 800 8.75 270 25 93 430 16.28! S90 11.86 825 8.48 280 25.00 440 15-91, 600 11.67' 850 8.24 290 24.14 450 15 -561 610 11.48; 875 8.00 300 23 -33 460 15.221 620 II.29| 900 7.78 310 22. 58 470 14.89; 630 II. Ill 925 7-57 320 21.87 480 14.58 640 10.94. 950 7.37 330 21.21 490 14.291 650 io.77| 975 7.18 340 20.59 500 14.00' 660 10.61J 1000 7.00 350 20.00 510 13-73' 670 10.45 1050 6.67 360 19.44 520 13.46' 680 10.29J IIOO 6.36 370 18.92 1 530 13 21I 690 10.14I 1 150 6.09 380 18.42 i 540 12.96' 700 10.00; 1200 5-83 390 1795 1 550 12.73 725 9 66, 1250 5-60 400 17 50 1 560 12.50, 750 9-33 1300 5.38 410 17.07 ;5ro 12.28; 775 9 03 1400 5 00 1500 1600 1700 1800 4.67 4.37 4.12 3 89 19003.68 20O0j3.5o 22503.11 2500,2.80 27502.55 30002.33 325o'2.i5 35002.00 -1000' 1. 75 5000: 1 . 40 6000 1 .17 7000 1 .00 i In determining the count of bleached linen yarns a loss for bleaching is allowed, as follows: full bleach, 20 per cent; three-fourth bleach, 18 per cent; half bleach, 15 per cent. * Linen yams are classified into hand-spun and machine-spun, and are also characterized as dry- or wet-spun. Dry-spun yarns arc possessed of a greater degree of firmness, though finer numbers can be obtained by wet-spinning. Tow yarns are made from the waste of flax ^pinning and are readily distinguished from linen yams by the numerous knots and shives which are present. In Germany dry-spun yams range from 10 to 30's, and wet-spun yam up to 80 's. Varas as fine as 200 are spun in Belgium and Scotland. Tow yarns are dry spun from 6 to 20, and wet spun up to 35. - t The count of linen yarn may also be obtained from the formula: Count = yards weighed 0.043 X weight in grains Digitized by Google 592 THE TEXTILE FIBRES Jute yams are numbered in the same manner as linen yams, the basis also being the number of cuts (or leas) of 300 yards in one pound. In Holland the count of jute yams is given by the number of hectograms (0.22 lb.) in a length of 150 metres. The count of jute yams is also based on the weight in • ounds per spindle of 14,400 yards. That is to say, if 14,400 yards of the yam weigh 8 pounds the count is 8. Hemp is reckoned on the same basis as jute. Ramie yams are nmnbered like chappe silk in Europe, that is to say, the count denotes the number of hanks of 1000 meters weighing i kilogram; hence a ramie yam of 32 count would be equivalent to 20 's in the cotton count. The same method of numbering prevails in America. Digitized by VjOOQ IC BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE TEXTILE FIBRES Alcan. Etudes sur les arts textiles a TExposition de 1867. Trait6 complet de la filature du coton. Paris, 1875. Allen. Commercial Organic Analysis, vol. i and vol. 3, part 3. Philadel- phia, 1898. Auer. Ueber die Bastfasem der Moraceen. Oester. Botan. Zeitsch., 1903, p. 353. Annuaire de Tindustrie liniere. Dunbar. Lille. Baine. History of the Cotton Manufacture in Great Britain. London, 1835. Barill6. fitude sur les fibres textiles. Strassburg, 1868. Becker. Die Kunstseide. Halle, 191 2. Beech. Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics, pp. 1-22. London, 1901. Dyeing of Woolen Fabrics, pp. 1-14. London, 1902. Beltzer and Pcrsoz. Les matieres cellulosiques. Paris, 191 1. Bemardih. Nomenclature nouvelle des 550 fibres textiles. Gaud, 1872. Berthold. Ueber die mikroskop. Merkmale der wichstigen Pflanzen- fasern. 1883. Biesiadecky. Artikel Haut, Haare und Nagel in Strieker's Handbuch der Ivehre von den Geweben. Leipzig, 1871. Bolley. Beitrage zur Theorie der Farberei. Untersuchung ueber die Yamamayseide. Polyt. Zeitschrift, 1869, p. 142. and Schoch. Ueber die Seiden. Dingl. Polyt. Jour., 1870, p. 7. Borain. La culture du coton. Brussels, 1875. Bottler. Die vegetabilischen Faserstoffe. Leipzig, 1900. Die animalischen Faserstoffe. Leipzig, 1902. Bouch6 and Grot he. Ramie, Rhea, China-grass und Nesselfaser. Berlin, 1884. Bowman. The Structure of the Wool Fibre. London, 1908. The Structure of the Cotton Fibre. London, 1908. Bradbury. Calculations in Yarns and Fabrics. Belfast, 1906. Brooks. Cotton Manufacturing. Blackburn, 1888. Handbook for Cotton Manufacture Students. London, 1889. Browne. Trichologia mammalium. Philadelphia, 1853. Bruckner. Einiges iiber die neue Gespinnstpflanze Ramie. 1870. 593 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 594 THE TEXTILE FIBRES Burkett. Cotton. New York, 1907. Butterworth. Cotton and its Treatment. Manchester, 1881. Carter. The Bleaching, Dyeing and Finishing of Flax, Hemp, and Jute. London, igii. Charpentier. Les textiles; Ency. Chimique. Paris, 1890, Ch6rot. £tudes sur la culture du lin, 1845. Christy. New Commercial Plants and Drugs. 1882. Clark. Practical Methods in Microscopy. Boston, igoo. Cross and Bevan. Cellulose. London, 1895. Researches on Cellulose, 1895 to 1900. London, 1901. Researches on Cellulose, 1900 to 1905. London, igo6. Researches on Cellulose, 1905 to 1910, London, 1912. Paper Making, pp. i-iio. London, 1900. Bevan, and King. Report on Indian Fibres. London, 1887. Crum. On the Cotton Fibre. 186;. Cuniasse et Zwilling. Essais du commerce; Matieres textiles, pp. 225-232. Paris, 1901. Dana. Cotton from Seed to Loom. New York, 1878. Dannerth. Methods of Textile Chemistry. New York, 1908. Danzer. Les industries textiles a I'Exposition de 1889. Paris, 1889. Davis, Dreyfuss, and Holland. Sizing and Mildew in Cotton Goods. Manchester, 1883. Demoor. Lin, culture et rouissage. 1857. Dept. of Agriculture. Yearbook, 1903. Silk Culture Bulletin. Deschamps. Le coton. Paris. Dickson. Fibre Plants of India. 1865. Dodge. Descriptive Catalogue of the Useful Fibre Plants of the Worid. Report No. 9 of the U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, 1897. Report on Flax Culture. No. 10, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture. 189S. Donnell. History of Cotton. New York, 1872. Dupont. La filature du coton. Paris, 1881. Duseigneur-Kleber. Le cocon de soie. Paris, 1875. Eble. Die Lehre von derf Haaren. 2 vols. Vienna, 183 1. Editors of the "Dyer and Calico Printer." Mercerisation. London, 1903. Ellison. Handbuch der Baumwollcultur. Bremen, 1881. Engel. Ueber das Wachsen abgeschnittener Haare. 1856. Erdl. Vergleichende Darstellung des inneren Baues der Haare. 1841. Favier. Note industrielle sur la ramie. Avignon, 1882. Fiedler. Die Materialien der Textil-Industrie. Hanover, 1909. Flatters. The Cotton Plant. London, 1906. Focke. Mikrosk. Untersuch. der bekannteren Gespinnstfasem, der Shoddy- woUe, etc. Archiv. der Pharmacien, 1886. Digitized by VjOOQ IC BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE TEXTILE FIBRES 505 Fr6my. La ramie. Paris, 1884. Frey. Das Mikroskop fUr Aertze, etc. Ganeval. Le coton. Lyons, 1881. Ganswindt. Die Technologic dcr Appretur. Vienna, 1907. Gardner, P. Mercerisation und Appretur. Berlin, 191 2. Gardner, W. Wool Dyeing, part i, pp. 7-19. Philadelphia, 1896. Geldard. Handbook on Cotton Manufacture. New York, 1867. Georgevics. Chemical Technology of the Textile Fibres. Trans. Salter. London, 1902. Gnehm. Taschenbuch fUr die Farberei und Farbenfabriken: "Gespinnst- fasern," pp. 1-17. Berlin, 1902. Grothe. Technologic der Gespinnstfasem. Vollstandiges Handbuch der Spinnerei. Berlin, 1876 and 1882. "Textil Industrie" in Muspratt's Chemie, vol. 5. Gurlt. Vergleichende Untersuchungen ueber die Haut. Berlin, 1844. Halphen. La pratique des essais conmierciaux et industriels, matieres organiques; Textiles et tissues, pp. 326-342. Paris, 1893. Hamon. Culture du lin en Bretagne. Hanausek imd Nebeski. Mikroskopie von Pelzhaaren. Jahresbericht der Wiener Handelsakademie. 1884. Hannan. Textile Fibres of Commerce. London, 1902. Heermann. Dyers' Materials: "Textile Fibres," pp. 16-24. Trans. Wright. London, 1900. Untersuchungsmethoden der Textil-chemie. Berlin, 1902. Mechanisch-und Physikalisch-technische Textiluntcrsuchungen. Ber- lin, 191 2. Herzfeld. Das Farben und Bleichen, etc. Berlin, 1890. Herzinger. Die Technik der Mercerisation. Reuss, 1911. Herzog. Die Unterscheidung der natiirlichen und kUnstlichen Seiden. Dresden, 19 10. Mikrophotographischer Atlas der technisch wichtigen Faserstoffe. Munich, 1908. Higgins. On the Microscopic Character of Cotton. Proc. Lit. and Phil. Soc. of Liverpool, 1872. Hofmann. Traits pratique de la fabrication du papier. 1876. H5hnel. Die Mikroskopie der technisch verwendeten Faserstoffe. Leip- zig, 1887. Die Unterscheidung der pflanzlichen Textilfasem. Dingl. Polyt. Jour., vol. 246, p. 465. Ueber pflanzliche Faserstoffe. Vienna, 1884. Ueber den Bau und die Abstammung der Tillandsiafaser. Dingl. Foiyt. Jour., vol. 234, p. 407. Beitriige zur technischen Rohstofflehre. Dingl. Ployt. Jour., vol.252. Digitized by VjOOQ IC 596 THE TEXTILE FIBRES Hoyer. Das Papier, seine Beschaffenheit und deren Priifung. Munich, 1881. Htibner. Bleaching and Dyeing of Vegetable Fibrous Substances. Lon- don, 191 2. Htilse. Die Technik der BaumwoUspinnerei. Stuttgart, 1863. Hununel. Dyeing of the Textile Fibres. London, 1896. Hyde. The Science of Cotton Spinning. Manchester. ' Janke. Wool Production. 1864. Jod6t Chemische Bearbeitung der SchafwoUe. Leipzig, 1902. Karmarsh. Technisches Worterbuch. Artikel "Baumwolle" und "Ge- spinnstfasem." 1876. K6r6bel. De Texamen des fibres textiles v6g6tales dans la marine, 1890. Knecht, Rawson, and Loewenthal. Manual of Dyeing. London, 19 10. Kolliker. Handbuch der Gewebelehre. Kuhn. Die BaumwoUe. Leipzig, 1892. J*aeroix. Grand dictionnaire industriel. Paris, 1888. Lafar. Technical Mycology, vol. t. London, 1898. de Lasteyrie. Du cotonnier et de sa culture. Paris, 1808. Le Blanc. Systeme complet de la filature du coton. Paris, 1828. Lecomte. Textiles v6g6taux. Paris. La ramie. (Rev. gen. sciences.) Paris, 1890. Lee. The Vegetable Lamb of Tartary. London, 1887. Leigh. The Science of Modern Cotton Spinning. Manchester, 1877. Leydig. Lehrbuch der Histologie. ' L'Homme. Laine et coton. Paris, 1881. Lobner, H. Studien und Forschungen iiber Wolle. Grtinberg, 1898. Lobner, O. Carbonisation der Wolle. Grunberg, 1891. Lunge. Chemische technische Untersuchungsmethoden, vol. 3, pp. 1026- 1056. Berlin, 1900. Lyman. Cotton Culture. New York, 1868. Mallet. Cotton: the Chemical, etc., Conditions of its Culture. London, 1862. Marcandier. Trait6 du chanvre. Paris, 1795. Marsden. Cotton Spinning. London. 1888. Massot. Appretur und Schlichte-Analyse. Berlin, 191 1. Masters. On a New Species of Gossypium. Jour. Linn. Soc., London, 1882. Mitchell and Prideaux. Fibres Used in Textile and Allied Industries. London, 1910. Molisch. Neue Methode zur Untersuchung der Thierfasem und Pfianzen- fasem. Dingl. Polyt. Jour., vol. 261, p. 135. Moller. Waarenkunde. Vienna, 1879. Monie. The Cotton Fibre. Manchester, 1890. Digitized by VjOOQ IC BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE TEXTILE FIBRES 697 Mtiller. Anleitung zur Ausftihrung textil-chemischer Untersuchungen. Vienna, 1904. Nathusius-Konigsbom. Das Wollhaar des Schafes in histologischen und technischen Beziehung. Berlin, 1866. Niess. Die Baumwollspinnerei. Weimar, 1885. Oesterreichs. Wollen- und Leinenindustrie. Oger. Trait6 61^mentaire de la filature du coton. Mtilhausen, 1839. O'Neill. A Dictionary of Calico Printing and Dyeing. London, 1862. Experiments and Observations on Cotton. London, 1865. ~ On an Apparatus for Measuring Tensile Strength of Fibres. London, 1865. Oppel. Die BaumwoUe. Leipzig, 1902. Orschatz. Ueber den Bau der wichtigsten verwendbaren Faserstofife. Polyt. Centralblatt, p. 1279. 1848. Parent-Duchatelet. Le rouissage du chanvre. Paris, 1832. Parlatore. Le specie dei cotoni. Florence, 1866. Pelouze. Expos6 complet de la culture du coton aux Antilles. Paris, 1838. Persoz. Essai sur le conditionnement de la sole, etc. Paris, 1878. Le conditionnement de la soie. Paris, 1887. Pfuhl. Papierstoffgame. Riga, 1904. Polleyn. Dressings and Finishings for Textile Fabrics. Trans. Salter. I/)ndon, 191 1. Quatremere-Disjonval. Essais sur les caract6res qui distinguent les cotons de diverses parties du monde. Paris, 1784. Rawson, Gardner, and Laycock. Dictionary of Dyes, Mordants, etc.; articles relating to Textile Fibres. London, 1901. Reiser and Spennrath. Handbuch der Weberei. Berlin, 1885. Reissek. Die Fasergewebe des Leins, etc. Vienna, 1852. Renouard. Les arts textiles. Les fibres textiles des pays tropicaux. Reybaud. Le coton. Paris, 1863. Richard. Die Gewinnung der Gespinnstfasem. Bnmswick, 1881. Rohde. Beitrage zur Kenntniss des Wollhaares. Eldenaer Archiv. 1856, 1857. /^ Romen. Die Bleicherei, Farberei und Appretur der BaumwoUwaren, etc. Berlin, 1879. Royle. On the Culture of Cotton in India, etc. London, 1851. The Fibrous Plants of India. London, 1855,. Sadtler. Handbook of Industrial Organic Chemistry. Philadelphia, 1897. Saladin. La filature du coton. Paris. Sansone. Dyeing Wool, Silk, Cotton, etc., vol. i, pp. 18-32, London, 1888. Printing of Cotton Fabrics, pp. 53-73. London, 1901. Savorgnan. Coltivazione ed industria delle piante tessili. Milan, 1890. ^ Digitized by VjOOQ IC THE TEXTILE FIBRES Schacht. Die Prllfung der im Handel vorkommenden Gewebe.' Berlin, 1853. Schick. Der Textilchemiker. Reuss 19 10. Schlesinger. Examen microscopique et microchemique des fibres textiles. Paris, 1875. Schmidt. Schafzucht und Wollkunde. 1852. Schunck. On Some Constituents of the Cotton Fibre. London, 1868. - - On the Color of Nanking Cotton. London, 1873. Shepperson. Cotton Facts. New York. Sicard. Guide pratique de la culture du coton. Paris, 1866. Siegfried. Sur le coton de TAlgerie. Silberbach. Handbook of Vegetable and Mineral Products. Liverpool, 1887. Silbermann. Die Seide. 2 vols. Dresden, 1897. Squier. Tropical Fibres. New York, 1863. Silvern. Die kunstliche Seide. Berlin, 191 2. Terwagne. Du lin, du chanvre, etc. Lille, 1852. Thomson. The Sizing of Cotton Goods. Manchester, 1875. Thorpe. Dictionary of Applied Chemistry: articles relating to Textile Fibres. New York, 1895. Todaro. Relazioni suUa cultura dei cotoni in Italia. Rome, 1878. Trotman and Thorpe. The Principles of Bleaching and Finishing of Cotton. London, 191 1. United States Report. The Cotton Plant. Bulletin No. 33, Dept. of Agriculture, 1896. Ure. The Philosophy of Manufacture. London, 1835. On the Cotton Manufacture of Great Britain. London, 1861. Cotton Spinning and Manufacture. London, 1861. Vautier. L'art de la filature du coton. Paris, 1821. Vetillart. Etudes sur les fibres vegetales textiles. Paris, 1876. Vignon. La soie. Paris, 1890. Wagner. Handbuch der Physiologic. Artikel "Der Haut." Chemical Technology: "Fibres," pp. 798-871. Trans. Crookes. New York, 1897. Walmsley. Cotton Spinning. London, 1883. Walton. The Story of Textiles. Boston, 191 2. Watson. Fibre-yielding Plants of India. 1870. Watto. Cotton. London, 1877. Weddel. Monographie des Urtic^s. Paris, 1866. Weisner. Die Rohstoffe des Pflanzenreiches, vol. 2, "Fasem." Leipzig, 1903. Beitrage zur Kenntniss der indischen Faserpflanzen. 1870. Einleitung in die technische Mikroskopie. 1867. Digitized by VjOOQ IC ANALYSIS OF THE TEXTILE FIBRES 599 Weisner und Prasch. Ueber die Seiden, in Mikroskop. Untersuchungen, 1872, p. 45; und Dingl. Polyt. Jour., p. 190. 1868. Wertheim. Ueber den Bau des Haarbalges. Vienna, 1864. Wheeler. A Handbook of Cotton Cultivation in Madras. Madras, 1862. Willems. La soie artificielle. Paris. Witt. Chemische Technologie der Gespinnstfasern, part i. Brunswick, 1891. Part n, 191 1. Worden. Nitrocellulose Industry. 2 vols. New York, 191 1. Zetzsche. Faserstoffe. Leipzig, 1905. Zipser. Textile Raw Materials. (Trans. Salter.) London, 1901. Digitized by VjOOQ IC Digitized by Google INDEX A PAGE Abaca 435 Abelmoschus teiraphyllos 1 56 Absorbent cotton 258 AbulUony varieties of 399 AhutUon avicerifiae 399 incanum 399 Acetate silk 62 Acid index of bleached cotton 515 Acidified wool, dyeing proi>erties of 62 Acid-proof fabrics 290 Adamkiewitz's test 137 Adenos cotton 221 Adipocelluloses 282 Adsorption theory in dyeing 304 African bowstring hemp 452 cottons 220 sheep 16 Agave americana 157 fibre 43Q Algodon de seda 350 Alkali-cellulose 278, 309 Allanseed cotton 211 Aloe fibre 443 hemp 507, 509 Aloii pcrfoliala 156 Alpaca 98 Ambari hemp 416, 429 action of steam on 430 American cotton 211 Amiantus asbestos 10 Amino-cellulose 296 Amyloid 276 Analysis of textile fabrics and yarns 517 textile fibres 461 Analytical table for mixed fibres 482 601 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 602 INDEX PAGE Anaphe silk ii8 Angola sheep i6 Anilin sulphate, reactions with 179 Animal and vegetable fibres, distinction between 6, 466 Animal fibres 6 hair, structure of 14 Animalized cotton 381 Annual silkworms 107 Anthenea assama 118 myliua 118 pernyi 118, 492 yama-mai 118 Antiphlogin 353 Argali 16 Arkansas cotton 211 Arryndia ricini 492 Arsenic in wool 52 Artificial fibres, classes of 11 horse-hair 286, 373 lace 373 maline 373 Artificial silk, action of water on 373 bleaching of 375 comparison of diflFerent varieties of 377 covering power of 374 density of 376 drying of 375 dyeing properties of 375 hygroscopic properties of 376 lustre of 376 properties of 373 scrooping of 375 size of 374 statistics for 351 strength ©f 372 tensile strength of 375 varieties of 351 silks 13 identification of 483 microscopical comparison of 489 testing with ruthenium red 488 Al-tificial silk yams, numbering of 591 wool 79, 407 Asbestos 9 dyeing of 11 fabrics from 11 method of spinning 11 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 603 PAGB AscUpias comiUi 500 cotton 347 Ash, determination of in vegetable 6bres 181 in textile fabrics, analysis of. 571 Ashmouni cotton '. 218 AUacus atlas 118 lunula 492 ricini 118 Attalea funifera 174, 458 Auchmia huanaco 95 Uama 95 paco 92 vkufia 94 B Baden hemp 419 Bahmia cotton 217 Bakrabadi jute 402 Banana fibre 157 Barbadoes cotton 208 Barwall sheep 16. Bash hemp 418 Basinetto silk 113 Basketry fibres 163 Bast fibres 152, 154, 165, 170 classification of 171 reactions for 478 Bastose 404 Bauhinia racetnosa 156, 1 74 Bave of silk fibre '. 114 Bayko yam 12 Bearded sheep 16 Beard-hair 17 BeaumofUia grandifiora 349 Benders cotton 211 Bengal hemp 416 Bhatial jute 402 Bibliography of textile fibres 593 Big-horn sheep 16 Biuret test 137 Black-faced sheep 16 Black-fellow's hemp 416 Black wool in sheep 52 Bleached cotton, acid index of 515 analysis of 512 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 604 INDEX PAGE Bleached cotton, copper index of 515 test for oxycellulose in 515 Bleaching wool with peroxides 68 " with potassium permanganate 68 Blue bender cotton 264 Boehmeria nivea 156, 410 lenacissima 156,410 Boiled-off liquor 13*1 Bombax carolinum 344 ceiba 343, 501 cotton 343, 510 cumanensis 344 heptaphyllum 156, 343, 501 malabaricum 344 pentandrum 345 pubescens 344 rhodognapkalon 344 vUlosum 344 Bombay hemp 416 Bombyx mori 106 Bourette silk 1 29 Boweds cotton 211 Bowstring hemp 416 Bradford method of sorting wool 19 Brazilian sheep 16 Brightening of silk 125 Brin of silk fibre 114 Broad-tail^sheep 16 Bromdia argentina 457 fibres 455 karatas 156 pinguin 157, 456 sylveslris 457 Broom-grass 157 Brown Egyptian cotton 220 hemp 416 Brush fibres 162 Byssus silk 150 Caesar weed fibre 452 Cago sheep 16 Calcino in silkworm 115 Calculations in conditioning textiles 539 Calcutta hemp 402 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 605 PAGE Calf hair loi Calotropis giganlta 156, 348, 501 proctra 5c», 510 Camel hair 96, 98 noils 98 Canadian asbestos 11 Canapa piccda 417 ^Cannabis saliva 156, 417 Caraguala fibre 457 Carbohydrates 268 Carbonization of shoddy 80 Carbonizing rags \ 277 Carded silk 120 yarns 46 Carludovica Palmate * 162 Caryola urens 162, 458 Cashmere / 88 Cat-hair 102 Caulking fibres 163 Caustic soda, recovery of in mercerizing 332 Cebu hemp 416 Ceiba cotton 343, 502 Cellulo silk 363 Celluloid 290 Cellulose 260, 268 constitution of 271 critical temperature for 300 degree of hydration of 312 determination of in vegetable fibres 182 mucilage value of 300 Cellulose acetate 280 aceto-sulphate 281 benzoate 280 hexanitrate 291 hydrate : 309, 339 nitrates 292 pentanitrate 292 peroxide 301 sulphate 281 thiocarbonate 278 xanthate 278 Century plant 444 Chapped silk 128 Chardonnet silk*. 353 Chemical analysis of textile materials 528 Chemical reactions of principal fibres 463 China grass 410, 503 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 606 INDEX PAGB Chinese jute 399 sheep 16 Chlorinated wool 69 detection of 69 Chlorinating wool, method of 69, 70 Cholesterol 50 Chrysotile 10 Ciboiium glaucum 346 Classes of fibres % 5 Classification of textile fibres i wool fibres in fleece 17 Cochlospermum gossypiuft 502, 510 Cocoon, the silk / iii Cocos nucifera Cocuiza fibre Cohesiveness of textile Coir 157 42s fibres 2 509 fibre \ 156, 447 Collodion .V 290 silk \. 353 Colloidal nature of fibres 6 Colorado River hemp 416 Combed yams 45 Commercial vegetable fibres , 461 Common hemp 417 sheep 16 Compound celluloses 281 Condenser yarns 210 Conditioned weight, table showing 549 Conditioning, calculations involved in 539 Conditioning apparatus 537 at Bradford. .' 534 of textiles 532 of wool 76 Congo sheep 16 Copper index of bleached cotton 515 Corchorus capsularis 156, 399 decemangukUus 399 fuscus 399 olUorious 156, 399 Cordage fibres 161 strength of 427 Cordia latifolia 156 Cordonnet silk 130 Cork tissue 175 Corypha umbraculifera 157 Cosmos fibre 80 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 607 PAGE Cotted fleeces 50 Cotton 503, 509 absorbent 258 action of adds on 285 action of alkalies on 295 action of ammonia on 296 action of coloring matters on 304 action of concentrated caustic soda on 297 action of cuprammonium solution on 284 action of ferments on 306 action of heat on 282 action of human saliva on 306 action of hydrofluoric acid on 292 action of magnesium chloride on 303 action of metallic salts on 302 action of mildew on 306 action of nitric acid on 289 action of organic acids on 292 action of oxalic acid on « 293 action of sodium sulphide on 297 action of sulphur on 297 action of tannins on 294 action of water on 284 action of zinc chloride on 285 albuminous matter in 267 boiling-out of 261 botany of 188 chemical constitution of 260 chemical reactions of 282 coloring matter in 264 degree of hydration of 340 degree of mercerization of 338 derivation of word 186 effect of kier-boiling on 295 electrical potential of 73 first cultivation of in U. S 187 foreign names for 205 grading of in America 224 grading of in Europe 214 history of 184 hygroscopic quality of 255 impurities in raw 260 manufactured value of one pound of 241 mineral matter in 264 origin and growth of 188 products of dry distillation of 283 regain for 257 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 608 INDEX PAGE Cotton, statistics of i88 tendering of with sulphur dyes 287 varieties of 205 Cotton and linen, distinction between 473 Cotton cloth, analysis of 570 mercerizing of 331 Cotton fabrics, flameproofing of 303 Cotton fibre, action of Schweitzer's reagent on 242 anatomical structure of 241 changes due to mercerizing 312 chemical analysis of 262 conditions affecting quality of 204 dimensions of 229 method of analysing 263 microchemical reactions of 249 microscopy of 245 number of twists in 227 physical structure of 227 physiological development of 200 primary elements of 204 spinning qualities of 250 structural parts of 242 tensile strength of 250 Cotton grass 168, 496 Cotton plant, analysis of 198 botanical classification of 213 cross fertilization of 213 description of 189 fertilizing constituents in 199 method of cultivation of 191 Cottonseed, analysis of 199 products obtained from 198 utilization of 198 Cotton sliver, mercerizing of 330 Cotton tree 212, 343 Cotton warps, mercerizing of 330 Cotton-wax 261 Cotton wool, dimensions of fibre of 156 Cotton yarn, contraction of during mercerizing 323 count of 215 determining count of 579 Cottonized flax : 390 ramie 412 Count of woolen yarn^ 582 Count of yam, definit'on of 577 variat'ons allowable in 580 Courtrai flax 386 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 609 PAGB Cow' hair 99 Crtpon effects, on union gcods 66 on woolen goods 72 Cretan hemp 416 sheep 16 Crimean sheep 16 Crin vigikil 160 Crinol 373 Crotdaria juncea 156 Cuba bast 161 Cuban hemp 416, 424 Cuprammonium hydrate, preparation of 269 silk 360 Cuprate silk 352 Curumbar sheep 16 Cutose 17s, 282 Cyperus unitans 163 Cyprian gold thread 12 Dacca cotton 224 Date palm fibre 157 Dead cotton 228 Deccan sheep 16 Degumming silk 131 Denier, definition of 583 different forms of 583 Deo cotton 207 Deora jute 402 Desi jute 401 Deswal jute 401 Diazotized wool 64 Dicotyledonous plants 152 Discharging silk 131 Doe, beard-hair of 31 Domestic sheep 17 Double cocoons 113 Dukhun sheep 16 Du Vivier's silk 360 Drying of wool 76 Durability of fibres , 5 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 610 INDEX E PACK Echappe silk 1 29 Economic classification of vegetable fibres 160 Economic limit of length of fibres 2 Edridon v^gilale- 346 Egyptian cotton, varieties of 218 Elairerin 51 EUHs guineensis 157 Electrical potential of fibres 73 Elephant grass 168 Embroidery silk 130 Endochrome in cotton fibre 203 Equivalent counts of yams 578 Eriodendron anfracluosum 345, 501 Escurial sheep 23 Esparto 505 fibre 157 grass 156 Excelsior fibre 159 Extract wool ...,,,,,,,,,,,, 79, 80 F Fabric fibres 160 False hemp 416 False sisal hemp 416' Feather-grass fibre 157 Fehling*s solution, preparation and use of 552 Fezzan sheep 16 Fibres chiefly used for textiles 1 Fibrbin 131, 133. action of polarized light on solution of 140 analysis of 134 chemical reactions of 138 composition of 137 dipeptide of 138 formula for 134 of tussah silk 147 preparation of pure 134 proportion of in raw silk 135 saponification of 134 Fibro-vascular bundles 7 Fiji sea-island cotton 217 Finishing materials, estimation of on fabrics 570 Fique fibre ; 425 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 611 PAGE Fireproofing of cotton fabrics 303 Flacherie in silkworm 115 Flame-proofing of cotton fabrics 303 Flax, grading of 383 retting of 385 Flax dust, composition of 397 Flax fibre, action of steam on 394 analysis of 395 cell dimensions of 394 chemical properties of 392 ' color of 393 comparison of with cotton 394 description of 390 Flax in United States 383 Flax plant, description of 383 Fleece, qualities of fibre in 22 Florette silk 129 Florida bowstring hemp 452 sea-island cotton 216 Floss silk 113, 127 Formic acid, use of in mordanting 71 Frisons 113 Frisonnets silk 113 Fruit-fibres 153, 166 Fur, use of in textiles 15 Galettame silk 113 Galgal fibre 346 Gallini Egyptian cotton 217 Gambo hemp 157, 429, 506, 510 Garar sheep 16 Gattine in silkworm 115 Gelatin silk 372 Georgia cotton 211 Giant hemp 416 Ginning 197 Glass wool ; 12 Glovers' wool 42 Goat-hair 88 Goitred sheep 16 Gorilla yam 91 Gossypium acuminatum 156 album 205 arboreum 156, 205, 223 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 612 INDEX PAGB Gossypium arboreunty botany of 211 barbadense 156, 205 botany of 207 braziliense 205 chinense 205 conglomeralum 1 56 croceum 206 eglandidosum 206 elatum 206 fructescens : 206 fuscum 206 glabrum 206 glandtdosum 206 herbaceum 1 56, 201 ,217 botany of 208 kirsuium 206, 210, 221 indicum 206 jamakense 206 javanicum 206 kirkii 206 latifoUum •. 206 leonivum 206 macedonkum 206 maritimum 206 mkranlhum 206. moUe 206 flanking 206 negleclum 206 nigrum 206 obtusifoliunj 206 oligospermum 206 paniculalum 206 perenne 206 peruvianum 207, 212 pundatum 207 racemosum 207 religiosum 207 roxburghianum 207 sandunfhense 213 siamense 207 sinense 207 slocksii 207 striclum : 207 tahitensc 212 tomcntosum 207 Iricuspidatum 207 viiifollum 207 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 613 PAGE Oossypium wigktianum 207 Grading of cotton 224 Grass cloth 412 Grasserie in silkworm 116 Green ramie 410 Gr^e silk 127 Guimara fabric 435 Guinea sheep 16 H Hair fibres 168 follicle 26 Hayti hemp 416 Heat-retaining value of fabrics 8 Hemp 157, 416, 504, 512 action of steam on 394 varieties of 416 Hemp and flax, distinction between 421 Hemp fibre, microscopy of 418 retting of 418 Hemp )rams, numbering of 592 Hibiscus cannabinus 156 el(Uus 161 esctdenius 429 Hingunghat cotton 220 Holoptelia intcgrifolia 156 Honduras silk-grass 457 Hooniah sheep 16 Hop fibre ^ 157 Hornblende 9 Horse-hair loi Iloya viridiflora 501 Humultis lupidiis 157 Hydrocellulose 276, 288, 339 Hydrolysis of vegetable fibres i8i Hygienic flannels 350 Hygroscopic moisture in fibres, method of determining 259 If6 hemp 416, 452 Indian cotton, varieties of 221 hemp 417 lodin-sulphuric add reagent, reactions with 177, 474 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 614 INDEX PAGB Isocholesterol 51 Istle fibre 450 Ita palm fibre 157 Italian hemp, analysis of 423 silk, analysis of 132 Ixtle fibre 445 J Jangipuri jute 402 Japanese braid fibres 162 floor mattings 163 raw silk, analysis of 132 Jaumave istle 450 Javanese sheep 16 Jubbulpore hemp 417 Juncus cffusus 163 Jute 399, 505, 511 action of steam on 394 analysis of 405 chemical composition of 404 commercial varieties of 401 distinction from other fibres 477 retting of 400 Jute butts 401 cuttings 401 fibre 157 microscopy of 402 physical properties of 406 Jute yarns, numbering of 591 K Kapok 345 analysis of 346, 481 detection of cotton in 481 Karatas plumieri 457 Karimganji jute 402 Kemps 42 Keratin 53 Kidney cottons 205, 223 Kittool fibre 162 Kittul fibre 162, 459 Kjeldahl's process of analyzing weighted silk 560 Kosmos fibre 4^7 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 615 PAGE Kumbi fibre 346 KurUwala silk, analysis of 132 Kydia calycina ;..... 156 Lace-barks * 161 Lace-bark fibre 157, 161 Lactic add, use of in mordanting 71 Lagetla lintearia / 157 Lana del iambor 344 Lana vegetal' 344 Lanuginic acid 55 reactions of 56 Lasiosyphon speciosus 156 Lea, definition of 579 Leaf-fibres 153, 165 Leaf-hairs 152 Lechuguilla fibre 445 Lehner's silk 359 Licella yam 460 Ligneous matter, chemical reactions for 478 Lignification, chemical constants of 410 Lignin 175, 177 amount in textile fibres 180 detection of in fibres 179 test for 155 Lignocellulose 175, 282, 407 action of chlorin on 408 phloro glucinol test for 409 Lignocellulose and cellulose, distinction between 408 Linden bast 156, 157 Linen 157, 382, 503, 510 action of Schweitzer*s reagent on 392 ash in 395 chemical properties of 392 color of 393 hygroscopic nature of 397 lustre of 393 microchemical reactions of 394 microscopy of 390 regain in conditioning 397 Linen and cotton, chemical distinction between 394, 473 Linen and hemp, distinction between 394, 477 Linen and tow yams, distinction between 393 Linen wax 396 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 616 INDEX PAGB Linen yams, loss in bleaching 393 numbering of T 398, 591 spinning of 398 Linkmeyer's process for artificial silk 363 Linters .' 199 Linum anguslifolium 382 calharlicum 382 crepitans 382 Uwisii 382 perenne 382 usitatissimum 1 56, 382 Llama 91 fibre 95 Louisiana cotton 211 Lumen, in plant fibres 154 Lustering of silk 125 Lustra-cellulose 352 Lustre of fibres 5 Lustre of wool, eflfect of chemical agents on 36 Lygamm spartum 157 Lyon's gold thread 12 M Maceo cotton 223 Madagascar sheep 16 Majagua fibre 429 Manila hemp 435» 507, 508, 510 action of steam on 394 Manila hemp and sisal, distinction between 478 fire 157 Many-horned sheep 16 Marabout silk 1 29 Maranhams cotton 223 Marine fibre 434 Matting fibres 163 Maurilia flexuosa iS7 Mauritius hemp 443 Median layer in fibres 170 Meliotus alba i57 Memphis cotton 211 Mercerized cotton 308 boiling-out of cotton for 331 cause of lustre in 313 distinction of from ordinary cotton 337 dyeing properties of 335 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 617 PAGE Mercerized cotton increased affinity of for dyes 334 iron in 266 microscopy of 34 1 physical appearance of 312 properties of 333 reactions of 336 scroop in 327 tests for 338 Mercerized wool 66 Mercerizing, chemicals employed in 318 conditions of 318 contraction of cotton during 323 history of 308 machines for 330 methods of 330 quality of fibre for 327 quantity of caustic sdoa used in 321 temperatxure for 320 tension in 324 theory of 317 time required in 323 use of sodium chloride in 319 washing as a process in 326 Mercerizing liquors, recovery of caustic soda from 332 Merino sheep 16, 23 Meta-pectin 388 Metal threads 12 Metallic threads, uses of 13 Metals in ash of weighted silk, testing for 552 Meteor fabrics 373 Methyl value of fibres 1 79, 180 Mexican fibre 457 Micro-analytical tables for vegetable fibres 494 Microscopic analysis of fabrics 574 Microscopical comparison of fibres 484 Mildew, varieties of on cotton 306 Mildew in wool 74 Milkweed fibre 2, 347 Millon's reagent, preparation of 136 Mineral fibres 9 Minor hair fibres 85 Mirganji jute 402 Mississippi cotton 211 Mitafifi cotton 218 Mobile cotton 211, 222 Mohair 85 microscopy of 86 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 618 INDEX PAGB Mohair noils 87 Moisture, determination of in vegetable fibres 181 influence of in weaving yams 78 Moisture in different fibres 536 fibres 77 Monocotyledonous plants 152 Mordants 70 Morocco sheep 16 MorvatU de la chine 16 Mountain sheep 16 (J. (mu), meaning of g Mulberry silk, analysis of 133 Mummy cloths 382 Mungo 80 Musa paradisaica 157 Muscardine in silkworm 115 Mysore sheep 16 N Nankin cotton 223 Narainganji jute 402 Natural silks, microscopical characteristics of 495 textures 161 Nepal sheep 16 Nephila Madagiiscwiensis 117 Neri silk 113 Nessdgarn 452 Nessdtuch 452 Netting fibres 161 Nettle fibre i57, 45i New Zealand flax i57, 43o, 506, 509 distinction from jute, hemp, and linen 476 microscopy of 433 Nigretti sheep 23 Nitrated cotton, microscopy of 290 Nitration value, determination of in vegetable fibres 182 Nitrates of cellulose 291 Noils " 45 Non-Flam process of flameproofing 304 Norfolk cotton 211 Normal cellulose 260 preparation of from cotton 270 Nurma cotton , 207 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 619 O PAGE Ochroma lagopus 34^, 502 Oil and grease, estimation of in fabrics 568 Oil palm fibre i57 Okra fibre 429 Organzine silk 1 28 Orleans cotton 221 Orsey silk 1 29 OuaU vigHaU 346 Oxycellulose 290, 298 tests for 514 Ovis amtrnm 16 ammon guinetnsis 16 aries 16 aries angolensis 16 aries congensis 16 aries numidia 16 aries steatiniora 16 barnal 16 hrevicaudatus 16 cagia 16 ethiopiae 16 guineensis 16 hispanial 16 laticaudatus 16 longicaudatus 16 musmon 16 pdyceratus .* 16 rusticus 16 selingia 16 strepsiceros 16 P Packing fibre 164 Paina limpa 343 Palma istle 450 Panama fibre 162 hats, fibre for 162 Pandanus odoralissimtis 156 Pangane hemp 417, 452 Paper fibres 164, 166 mulberry fibre 157 Para-pectin 388 Parenchyma 7 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 620 INDEX PACB Palies de lihre 346 Pauly's silk 360 Peat fibre 80 Pebrine in silkworm 115 Pectic acid 388 Pectin 388 compounds in cotton 264 matters 388 Pectinase 387 Pectocelluloses 281 Pectose 282, 388 Pectosic acid 388 Peeler cotton 211 Penna nohUis 150 Perc6s cocons 113 Pemambuco cotton 223 Persian wool 91 Peruvian cotton 222 sea-island cotton 217 Phloem ■ 154 Phoenix dactylifera 157 Phormium tenax 156, 430 Piassave fibre 1 74, 458 Pigment in wool, composition of , 40 Pifta cloth 447 Pineapple fibre 157, 446, 50^, 508 Piques cocoons 113 Pita fibre 156, 157, 444 hemp '. 508, 509 Plaiting fibres 162 Plant cells 6 Plant fibres, anatomical classification 153 classification of 153 dimensions of raw 156 Planta de Torquilla 162 Pliability of textile fibres 3 Plumose fibres 168 Plush goods, analysis of 523 Poil silk 130 Polyv'oltine silkworms 107 Poplar cotton 498 Porosity of fibres 4 Properties required in a textile fibre i Pseudo-fibres 159 jute 505, 510 Pua hemp 417 Pucha sheep 16 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 621 PAGE Pulled wool 42 Pulu fibre T 346 Pure cellulose, isolation of in vegetable fibre 270 hemp 418 Pyroxene 9 Pyroxylin 290 hydrate 356 Qualitative tests for fibres 462 Queensland hemp 417 Rabbit-hair 103 Ramie 157, 410, 503 analysis of 416 Ramie fibre, microscopy of 413 yarns, numbering of 592 Rangoon hemp 41 7 Raphia fibre 454 Raphia iaedigera i^ vinifera 458 Raw silk, microscopy of varieties of 149 weighting of 553 Reactions of natural and artificial silks 486 Reagents for testing fibres 463 Reed-mace hair 498 Regains for conditioning textiles 534 in textiles, mathematical relations in 541 in wool 76 of worsted yams 533 Regenerated cellulose 280 Resist colors 65 dyeing 65 Retting, bacteria of 387 Retting of linen 382 Rhea 410 Ricotti silk 113 Rippling flax 385 Roa fibre 503 Roller gin 197 Roselle hemp 417 Rough Peruvian cotton 223 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 622 INDEX PACE Rugginose cocoons » 113 Ruthenium red, microch^mical reagent 488 S Sakusan silk, analysis of 132 S(Uix alba 157 Sansevieria fibre iS7. 452, S07 Santos cotton 222 Sarothamnus vulgaris 157 Salurnia cecropia ! 492 pdyphemus 492 spini 491 Savannah cotton 211 Saw gin 197 Schreiner finish 342 Schweitzer's reagent, preparation of 269 reactions with 178 Sclerenchymatous fibres 170 Scotch method of sorting wool 19 Scroop of silk 1 26 on mercerized yam 327 on wool 69 Sea-grass 153, 454 Sea-island cotton 204, 215 Sea-silk 150 Sea-wrack 153 Seed-fibres 153 Seed-hairs 152, 168 Selina cotton 211 Sericin 131, 138 action of polarized light on solution of 140 anUysis of 138 chemical reactions of 139 preparation of pure 139 Sericulture in America 106 Serin 139 Sewing silk 130 numbering of 587 Shaymbliar sheep 16 Sheep, classes of 16 description of 14 first mention of in England 17 varieties of 16 varieties of foreign and British 20 Shoddy 79 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 623 PAGE Shoddy, analysis of 523 characteristics of 84 detection of 81 in fabrics 576 examination of 80 method of carbonizing 80 , microscopy of 80 stripping of with nitric acid 64 varieties of 79 Short-tailed sheep 16 Sida rdusa 1 56 Silk, absorption of mixed adds by 63 action of acids on 141 action of Adamkiewitz's reagent on 136 action of alcoholic potash on 136 action of alkalies on 143 action of barium hydrate on 136 action of chlorin on 146 action of dyestu£fs on 146 action of formic acid on 146 action of heat on 141 action of hydrochloric acid on 142 action of hydrofluoric acid on 142 action of hydrofluo-silicic acid on 142 action of metallic salts on 143 action of Millon's reagent on 136 action of nitric acid on 141 action of nitrous acid on 141 action of polarized light on 493 action of Schweitzer's reagent on 146 action of sodium chloride on 144 action of stannic chloride on 146 action of sugar on 146 action of tannic acid on 141 , analysis of 132 J^ ash in 133 biuret test for 137 brightening of 125 chemical constitution of 131 chemical reactions of 141 coefficient of acidity of 61 coloring matter of 140 conditioning of 1 24 density of 1 26 diazotizing of 136 electrical potential of 73 electrical properties of 125 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 624 INDEX PAGE Silk, lustering of 1 25 lustre of 125 microchemical tests for 490 microscopical characteristics of natural 495 moisture in 1 24 physical properties of 124 production of crfipon effects on 143 products of hydrolysis from 137 proportion of fibroin in 135 scroop of 1 26 structure of 105 tensile strength of 125 Silk and cotton fabrics, analysis of 523 Silk cocoon, formation of 1 1 1 Silk-cotton plant 214 Silk fabrics, analysis of weighting in 551 Silk fibre, microchemical reactions of 120 microscopy of 120 Silk filament, size of 114 thickness of 114 Silk-glue 131 Silk-grass , 157, 446 Silk industry, history of 106 statistics of 107 Silk-reeling 127 Silk shoddy 113 Silk yams, numbering of 583 Silk-wadding 130 Silkworm, description of 105 diseases of 114 Silkworm culture, methods of 107 Silvalin yam 460 Silver cloth 347 Simal cotton 344 Sinew fibre 151 Single silk 130 Sisal hemp 439 Size of yams, determination of 577 Slag wool 13 Small hemp 4^7 Smooth-haired sheep 16 Smooth Peruvian cotton 223 Smyrna cotton 218 Soie de France 360 Sole ondie 130 Soyan cloth 119 Spanish sheep 16 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 625 PAGE Spartium junceum 157 Specific heats of fibres 8 Spider silk 117 Spinning fibres 160 Sponia wightii 156 Spontaneous combustion, testing fabrics for 573 Spun glass, fibres from 12 Spun silk 128 Spun silk yams, numbering of 587 ** Staff," fibres for 164 Staple of wool 18 Stearerin 51 Stegmata in plant fibres 1 76 Stem-fibres 153, 166 Sterctdia villosa 156 Sthenosage process for artificial silk 369 Stripping shoddy with nitric acid 64 Stripping silk 131 Strophantus fibre 500 Structural classification of vegetable fibres 1 58 Structural fibres 158 Strussa silk 113 Sugar-cane hairs 498 Suint 51 Sulphur dyes, tendering of cotton by 287 Sultain cotton 219 Sunn hemp 157, 425, 504, 512 analysis of 429 Surat cotton 221 Surface fibres 159 Swedish hemp 417 Systematic analysis of mixed fibres 481 Tahiti sea-island cotton 217 Talipot palm fibre 157 Tampico hemp 417 Tanners' wool 42 Tannic add, action on cotton 294 Tarmate cocoons 113 Tartary sheep 16 Tensile strength of fibres, method of determining 253 Texas cotton 211, 221 Textile fibres, action of metallic salts on 71 specific gravity of 555 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 626 INDEX PAOB Textilose yarns 459 Theory of dyeing of cotton 304 Thespesia latnpas 156 Thibet wool 80 Thiele's silk 363 Thrown silk, numbering of 587 TUia europaea 157 TiUandsia fibre 156, 454 usneoides 454 Tin, detection of in textile fabrics 558 Titre of silk yams 583 Tops 45 Tow yams, distinction between linen and 393 Tram silk 128 Tree-basts 161 Tree cotton 212 True Indian hemp 425 Tula istle 450 Tuscan braid fibres 162 Tussah silk 118, 147 analysis of ^33,147 analysis of ash of 148 comparison of with true sHk 148 structure of 122, 149 Tussur silk 119 U Unbarri Eg)rptian cotton 219 Unripe cotton, properties of 228 Upholstery fibres 163 Upland cotton 211, 221 Urena sinuata 156, 452, 506 Urtica dioica 157, 451 Urtica nivea 157 urena 4Si Uttariya jute 401 Van mohair 9' Varieties of foreign sheep 20 Vascular bundles 165 fibres 152 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 627 PAGB Vasculose 282 Vegetable down 345, 498, 509 Vegetable fibres 6, 152 analytical reactions of 471 analytical review of 508 chemical composition of 174 chemical constants for 183 chemical investigation of 180 chemical properties of 174 classification of 157 color of '. 172 determination of add purification value of 183 determination of ash in 181 determination of carbon percentage in 182 determination of cellulose in 182 determination of mercerizing value of 182 determination of moisture in 181 determination of nitration value of 182 elasticity of 172 hydrolysis of 181 hygroscopic properties of 173 lustre of 172 methyl value of 179 physical factors of 412 physical properties of 172 physical structure of 168 reactions of with aniline sulphate 179 reactions of with iodin-sulphuric reagent 177 reactions of with polarized light 171 reactions of with Schweitzer's reagent 178 statistics of 160 tensile strength of 1 73 Vegetable hairs 164 Vegetable horse-hair 454 Vegetable parchment 285 Vegetable silk 347, 498, 509, 510 dimensions of fibre of 156 Vegetable wool 350 Vicogne 91 Vicufla 9i» 98 Vicufta wool 94 Vine cotton 218 Viscolith 369 Viscose 279, 298 analysis of 368 determining viscosity of 368 preparation of 364 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 628 INDEX PAGE Viscose silk 364 Vulcanized fibre 285 W Wadding silk 113 Warp silk 129 Waste silk, boiling-off of 128 varieties of 113 Water hemp 417 Waterproof quality of fabrics, testing the 572 Watt silk 113 Weft silk 129 Weighted silk, tendering of 144 tensile strength of 143 Weighting in silk fabrics, estimation of 551 Weighting on silk, calculation of 564 determination of by Kjeldahl^s process 560 West Indian cottons 223 West Indian sheep 16 White Egyptian cotton 219, 221 White ramie 411 Wild hemp 417 WOd pineapple fibre 157, 457 Wild silk, distinction of from true silk 488 microscopy of 122, 492 varieties of 116 Wild silkworms, classification of 118 Willesden canvas V 284 Willow fibre 157 Wood-wool 80 Wood-pulp yams 459 Woody fibres 158 Woody fibre in vegetable fibres 176 Wool, absorption of mixed acids by 63 absorption of moisture by V 76 absorption of sulphuric acid by 62 add and basic nature of 60 acidified 62 action of acetyl chloride on 74 action of acids on 61 action of alkalies on 65 action of alum on 70 action of chlorin on 69 action of chrome on 71 action of chromic acid on 63 action of concentrated caustic soda on 66 Digitized by VjOOQ IC INDEX 629 PAGE Wool, action of concentrated mineral acids on 65 action of dilute sulphuric acid on 62 action of dyestuffs on 72 action of hydrochloric add on 63 action of hydrogen peroxide on 68 action of metallic salts on 70 action of milk of lime on 67 action of nitric acid on 63 action of nitrous acid on 64 action of organic acids on 65 action of oxidizing agents on 67 action of potassium permanganate on 68 action of sodium peroxide on 68 action of tannic acid on 65 action of zinc chloride on 70 chemical analysis of 49 chemical constitution of 53 chemical nature of 49 chemical reactions of > 59 chief varieties of 25 coefficient of acidity of 60 coloring matter in 52 comparative number of scales per inch on 37 conditioning of 76 conditions affecting quality of 46 cortical cells in 38 drying of s 76 electrical potential of 73 epidermal scales on 31 felting quality of 36 hygroscopic quality of 75 lustre of 36 medullary cells in 40 method of carbonizing 80 method of chlorinating 69, 90 microchemical reactions of 75 microscopy of 31 mildew on 74 nature of scales on 32 nitrogen in 55 pedigree of 17 physiology of 26 pigment matter in 40 production of scroop on 69 reaction of with water 59 size of epidermal scales on 37 structure of 26 Digitized by VjOOQ IC 630 INDEX PAOB Wool, sulphur in.