None
NE 2210 P41 A26 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY GIFT OF R, W, Brown Cornell University Library NE2210.P41 A26 San Francisco, olln 3 1924 032 508 552 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924032508552 THE CITIES SERIES Frontispiece — on Cover THE CITY FROM THE HILLS SAN FRANCISCO THE CITY OF THE GOLDEN GATE by JOSEPH JBENNELL BEING TWENTY-FIVE RE- PRODUCTIONS IN PHOTO- GRAVURE FROM ETCH- INGS &- DRAWINGS BOSTON LE ROY PHILLIPS Piiians &* iViisoHt Pn'nters, Edinburgh THE LIST OF CONTENTS Frontispiece — on Cwer THE CITY FROM THE HILLS I MARKET STREET II FROM THE BAY III THE TWIN PEAKS FROM MARKET STREET IV RUINS V CHINATOWN VI A HILLTOP VII FROM TELEGRAPH HILL VIII SING FAT AND SING CHONG IX RUSSIAN HILL X TELEGRAPH HILL XI ON THE BARBARY COAST XII SAN FRANCISCO FROM THE FAIRMONT XIII AFTERNOON : FOG COMING ON XIV ISLES OF THE BAY XV FROM Stevenson's house XVI AFTERNOON — SAN FRANCISCO XVII THE LAST OF OLD SAN FRANCISCO XVIII DOWN AND UP THE HILLS TO THE BAY XIX THE PLAYGROUND FROM CLIFF HOUSE XX CALIFORNIA STREET XXI KEARNY STREET XXII FROM THE BAY XXIII FROM MOUNT TAMALPAIS XXIV SACRAMENTO STREET MARKET STREET MARKET STREET IS THE MAIN ARTERY OF SAN FRAN- CISCO : EAST AND WEST, STRAIGHT ACROSS THE CITY IT RUNS. AT ITS FOOT IS THE CLOCK TOWER OF THE FERRY BUILDING THE WATER GATE OF THE CITY — AND THE TERMINAL OF THE OVERLAND RAILWAY LINES. IN ITS WESTWARD COURSE IT COMBINES COMMERCIAL THOROUGHFARE, SHOPPING DISTRICT, AMUSEMENT CENTRE, AND BOULEVARD. ITS BROAD PAVEMENTS SWARM WITH A GAY THRONG OF STROL- LERS, SHOPPERS, AND BUSINESS MEN. THE STREET IS ALIVE WITH CARS AND AUTOMOBILES — BIG SIGHT- SEEING MOTORS MEGAPHONE THEIR WAY OUT TO THE CLIFF HOUSE AND GOLDEN GATE PARK. THE WHOLE IS A BRILLIANT PANORAMA OF LIFE, ENERGY, AND EN- JOYMENT. > >- ■fl H S 2 in THE TWIN PEAKS FROM MARKET STREET MARKETSTREETISTHEBROADWAYOFSAN FRANCISCO. LOFTY BUILDINGS MAKEIT A CAStON OF SHADEON ONE SIDE, SUNSHINE ON THE OTHER. AT ITS EASTERN END RISES THE FERRY BUILDING, AND AT THE WEST ARE THETWIN PEAKS THATDOMINATETHBCITY FROM THIS QUARTER. 3 S « z > z 1-5 l- B a 2 !" H to 2 sS > » c > Cfi > ■< o O > nj • O X O H S o O B B < » B CO g >3 Z a ■ 2^^ CO O -3 ROW 2 3! B g S> SO > f B G 2 H Z E» S M ^ Q Q a H „ H a S w » > a > to (0 Z B io O o B < r* B z2 2 B n a B 1 K a B B to B a -^ rO '^ > '^ B O to q > >z ■fl hi PS O to n H §■? §^ go el CHINATOWN IN THE CHINAMAN CENTRES GREATER INTEREST AND GREATER MYSTERY THAN IN ANY OTHER FOREIGNER OF COSMOPOLITAN SAN FRANCISCO. HE OCCUPIES A CITY WITHIN A CITY. THE POPULATION OF CHINA- TOWN HAS BEEN VARIOUSLY ESTIMATED AT FROM FIFTEEN THOUSAND TOTWENTY-FIVE THOUSAND. IN THE RESTORATION WHICH FOLLOWED THE DISASTER OF 1906, THE ARCHITECTS ENDEAVOURED TO UNITE CHINESE STYLE AND AMERICAN UTILITY. MANY DE- PLORE THE PASSING OF THE OLD QUARTER WITH ITS WEIRD FASCINATION. YBTTHE GLORY OF CHINATOWN HAS NOT ALTOGETHER DEPARTED; THE BAZAARS, THE TEMPLES, THE VIVID COSTUMES, AND THE DISTINCT- IVE SHOPS STILL CARRY MORE THAN HINTS OF ORIENTAL CIVILISATION. ■.■'-I A HILLTOP SAN FRANCISCO IS DOMINATED BY HILLTOPS. PILING UP IMPRESSIVELY, THEY PRESENT AN ALMOST SPECT- ACULAR EFFECT. THE BUILDINGS ON THE SIDES AND SUMMITS SEEM MONUMENTAL FROM THE LOWER LEVELS, AND DISTANCE LENDS TO THE ILLUSION THE ASPECT OF MEDIEVAL BATTLEMENTS. B 5 > > CO m HH t-H ^ en O f^ H [fl S ffi H « H Ml "^ K4 H O H > O "as > "TS B s > K B _ c > 5 g ' to > > w 3 S f» *! 3 §S« c P o aj t-' ^ W o S O 2i S * z S G « w « £ o '^ S W > ta 2 > r 5 in Z S f^ n H >j >^ o l< H 1-3 H 5 1" B.3; • o H M r w Q > W 33 H {/i B SING FAT AND SING CHONG SING FAT AND SING CHONG ARE CONSPICUOUS BAZAARS OF CHINATOWN. IT IS COMMONLY SUPPOSED THAT THEY ARE NAMED FOR THEIR PROPRIETORS, BUT THE NAMES OF CHINESE BAZAARS HAVE SOME SIGNIFIC- ANCE. SING FAT MEANS "LIVING RICHES"; SING CHONG, "LIVINGPROSPERITY." INTERESTING HOURS OF LEISURELY SHOPPING MAY BE SPENT IN THE BA- ZAARS WHICH EXTEND FOR TWO BLOCKS ON GRANT AVENUE (FORMERLY DUPONT STREET) FROM CALI-l FORNI ATO CLAY STREETS. HERE CHINESE MERCHANTS LAY BEFORE THE APPRECIATIVE CUSTOMER TREAS- URES OF SILK, BROCADE, AND EMBROIDERY; OF CARV- ED IVORY AND TEAK, SANDAL, AND CAMPHOR WOOD; OFGOLD, SILVERJADE, BRONZE,CLOISONNi, LACQUER, AND PORCELAIN; BUT MINGLED WITH THESE IS MER- CHANDISE FOR THE DEMANDS OF THE CASUAL CUS- TOMER. MUCH THAT IS MERETRICIOUS AND THE GAUDY TRASH "MADE FOR THE AMERICAN TRADE" ARE ALSO FOUND. '^ *->, ^ RUSSIAN HILL RUSSIAN HILL IS THE HIGHEST POINT OF HILLY SAN FRANCISCO. IT RECEIVED ITS NAME FROM THE RUS- SIAN BURIAL GROUND WHICH WAS ON ITS SLOPES DURING THE DAYS OF THE HUDSON'S BAY AGENCY. THE CLUSTER OF HOUSES SCATTERED ABOUT THBSUM-i MIT IS THE HOME OF SAN FRANCISCO'S ART COLONY. FROM THEIR TERRACED GARDENS AND THEIR STUDIOj WINDOWS, NO GROUP OF PAINTERS COULD FINDMORjf SATISFYING VISTAS, FOR THE WHOLE PANORAMA Oi THE CITY AND BAY LIES BEFORE THEM. O H H B oa > w > cj a w > z o s s « M P" a " HH •* L ,« P5 SQ§osggSoKg: n a '^ f ■^ H B t- " a S r fS W S^ C^ »T4 II !>! 1^ ,5a ?I.H Z g w O O H to M a Hj B o — •" ^ B pgs^ T > 2 ri ftf I.- zi '-' a! as 3 5 2 o B S 5 o B B »H M H o m o ►^ ea H w H W o S 2 i" t) 2 3 D "^ " " ^ « " g S £ 2 S S M r 2 J ^ H O >SO"o2S J t^ W <«f •sfl W ?fl ' H W f ON THE BARBARY COAST BETWEEN TELEGRAPH HILL AND CHINATOWN LIES A DISTRICT CALLED THE BARBARY COAST. NO ONE KNOWS WHO COINED THE NAME. BY NIGHT IT IS DEVOTED TO THE DELIGHT OF THE DRIFTING POPUL- ATION THAT HAUNTS THE WATERFRONT. HERE THE SAILORS OF THE WORLD DRINK AND DANCE WITH THE TAWDRY-CLAD, MADE-UP HABITUES. BY DAY THE REGION IS MORE DECOROUS : THE DANCE MUSIC NO LONGER BLARES PANDEMONIUM FROMBEHIND SWING- ING DOORS, AND THE SHOPS CATER TO THE NEEDS OF THE INHABITANTS WHO DO NOT PARTICIPATE IN THE NIGHT LIFE. "i^X SAN FRANCISCO FROM THE FAIRMONT THE FAIRMONT HOTEL — COPY OF A EUROPE AN PALACE — CROWNS NOB HILL. THE CITY, FALLING AWAY FROM THIS ELEVATION, MAKES A PICTURE OF UN- COMMON BRILLIANCY. THE DESTRUCTION OF THE BUSINESS PORTION OF THE CITY BY THE FIRE OF I906 HAS RESULTED IN THE MODERNISATION OF THE EN- TIRE DOWN-TOWN DISTRICT. THEBUILDINGSGLEAM- ING IN THE SUN HAVE A BRIGHTNESS, FRESHNESS, AND CLEANLINESS NEVER SO NOTICEABLE AS WHEN VIEWED FROM THE HILLS. AFTERNOON : FOG COMING ON. SAN FRANCISCO HAS AN AVERAGEOF THREE HUNDRED DAYS OF SUNSHINE EVERY YEAR. YET ONE OF THE city's CHARACTERISTICS IS ITS FOGS, — BENEHCENT FOGS THAT TONE THE ATMOSPHERE. THE GOLDEN „, GATE ACTS AS A GREAT FUNNEL, DRAWING INTO THE BAY THE WINDS AND MISTS OF THE PACIFIC. THIS ENVELOPING FOG PRODUCES AN ILLUSION OF COLOUR ,i AND MYSTERY DELIGHTFUL TO THE EYE. ONCE IJf- 'l SIDE THE BAY, AFTER A FRIENDLY CONFLICT WITH 1 THE SUN, THE FOG INVARIABLY RETIRES. > o JO (O "J 1-J " IS a r > f «l ■ ►^ S! S K " > B H Si \P a ^ fe - " o n t^ M S > " a ^ p § P ?5 > M o a o S en > S 2 2 n G > B g O ■a K §1 o z 2 H ?? >§ > o f r O CA B *; 9 en Si a ^ 2 "^ S W B 2 «? iz! > > > H sa I PI MIS B C > a a a •=3 f O B > » "> 2 5 > > 2 o •? 2 B a g 01 o « f G 2 O g > -fl S5 z i. o z ^.« Z CA H H n o CO i»i > H ."* " - H " a G s W o B » K *^ O I-' G «( ■ y in s « s ^ B O U » O > B W U I-* |_3 C3 to ^ B H H z a a > B B a o B g z B el H Z » B |2 O EG w H B n B w o » ^1 O tfl W 1 B S B > m < Z ■ B cn O a a n > IP FROM STEVENSON'S HOUSE ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON HAD MANY ASSOCIATIONS WITH SAN FRANCISCO. IN 1879 HE PASSED SOME DREARY DAYS IN A HOUSE IN BUSH STREET AND ATE FIFTY-CENT DINNERS NEAR-BY, DESCRIBING ONE AS "A COPIOUS MEAL, WITH HALF A BOTTLE OF WINE." IT WAS BUT A FEW sflORT BLOCKS TO PORTSMOUTH SQUARE, WHERE HE LOUNGED IN THE SUN AND LISTENED TO THE TALES OF THE VAGABONDS OF THE SEVEN SEAS. HERE, WHERE HE RECEIVED THE IN- SPIRATION OF SOME OF HIS LATER TALES, THE FIRST MONUMENT TO HIS MEMORY WAS ERECTED. IN 1888, STEVENSON, WITH HIS FAMILY, SPENT A SHORT TIME AT THE OCCIDENTAL HOTEL IN MONTGOMERY STREET PRIOR TO EMBARKING ON THE CASCO FOR THE SOUTH SEAS. AFTERNOON— SAN FRANCISCO THE FULL SUNSHINE OF AFTERNOON IRRADIATING THE WHITE BUILDINGS OF THE CITY PRODUCES A FAN- TASTIC, ARABIAN NIGHTS EFFECT ALMOST DAZZLING IN ITS BRILLIANCY, AS ONE GOES FROM SUN TO SHA- DOW, UP AND DOWN THE HILLS. THE HILLS OF THE CITY MUST ALWAYS REMAIN, AND ONE OF THE MOST CHARACTERISTIC SIGHTS IS THE CABLE CAR CRAWLING UP THE STEEP INCLINES LIKE A FLY ON A WINDOW PANE. ;s'?.T-— -ita is^ri^vC^'- |t^ = r_^T f -^ .,:^' I < DOWN & UP THE HILI^ TO THE BAY SAN FRANCISCO LIES MAINLY ON THE SHORE OF THE BAY AND ON THE STEEP HILLS RISING FROM IT. TO MAKE THE PRESENT SITE OF THE CITY SUITABLE FOR AN INCREASING POPULATION, AN IMMENSE AMOUNT OF WORK HAD TO BE DONE IN CUTTING DOWN HILLS AND RIDGES, FILLING UP GULLIES, AND RECLAIMING THE MUD FLATS ON THE BAY. /'• 2 < n 7i D n !» o o en > PB < o K H V) G 58 2 o o B y OS n t/i o c .. > K d * < > Sw O S S (J) §?; f^ o w » s < o » 2 B G S ^ to K > - e; B '^ > O tfl o B H w Q Z Ol 13 r* n S S hbHS£ H g P O (o £, Kt la 5d B CO •^ s s s "."Si 2! a ° B H B H SS a g K o I ^ O "^ 5 M ?( B Bo" <^ O B Z -4 Z > O >») tn ffl o "* > n > a u B z >^ > > w |b«> S f o s S s: « 2 O 2 f S SS<8 t- 3 2 o Z " * B 2 a? s " " 5 S o w S §"§ a > o D B S! B - S '^ 3 f' P3 en in n CALIFORNIA STREET BEGINNING AT THE FERRY, CALIFORNIA STREET EXTENDS FROM THE WATERFRONT THROUGH THE WHOLESALE AND FINANCIAL DISTRICTS, BY CHINA- TOWN, AND UP THE STEEPEST OF STEEP GRADES TO NOB HILL. THE CABLE CARS CRAWL UP AT ALARMING BUT SAFE INCLINES TO THE SUMMIT WHERE, CROWN- ING THE ELEVATION, STANDS THE FAIRMONT HOTEL. IT IS AN UNCOMMON PEDESTRIAN WHO WOULD CHOOSE THE STEEP GRADE OF CALIFORNIA STREET FOR PLEASURE. :^ A''>*^- "'-\.v ***** * -"•' KEARNY STREET KBARNY STRBET LEADS FROM MARKET STREET TO- WARD TELEGRAPH HILL. IT HAS ITS DISTINCTIVE CHARACTER. THE LIFE OF THE STREET IS APART FROM THE MORE STAID AND REGULAR LIFE OF SAN FRANCISCO. PICTURESQUE FROM LONG VOYAGING, THE WATERFRONT DRIFTERS WANDER ALONG THE THOROUGHFARE SEEKING ADVENTURE. WHERE THE STREET MERGES INTO CHINATOWN AND THE LATIN QUARTER IS PORTSMOUTH SQUARE. AN EXILED CALI- FORNIAN, QUOTED BY WILL IRWIN, HAS SAID, "iN HALF AN HOUR OF KEARNY STREET I COULD RAISE A DOZEN MEN FOR ANY WILD ADVENTURE, FROM PULL- ING DOWN A STATUE TO SEARCHING FOR THE COCOS ISLAND TREASURE." > > ^ en g r VI Ho ■=o a 2 B H M „ a ° S "^ ^ > > J z z W o W B B n o B > o s a B W .fl ^ ■< !0 5 o X ►J > O H IS 01 o B '^ a Z ' f o I f^ S s p, ►1 "0 5 f' s B H ?" • K B tn *i3 w B bs z "nS •^ E > •- E f" H B t- cn O i< B ^ r > -B ■« Z B ^|i 11 G o G > H f^ E « O ■-. Z •« g p IS "0 i" O B 2 f^ a "^ s^s r •!) C3 r o H i» f a o > a z z G > (0 > BgH Pz° «! H 5 hS fe >^ ^^ r« r* ►TJ o JO "^q O CA Is ;> »^ ^s ■< a ui to .. .<. o :b «l n w H > >-> en a o n B SO O H a w FROM MOUNT TAMALPAIS MOUNT TAMALPAIS, ACROSS THE GLEAMING BAY, IS COVERED WITH CHARACTERISTIC CALIFORNIAN VER- DURE, MADRONA AND OAK, LAUREL AND PINE, MAN- ZANITAANDCHAPARRAL, WITH MUCH LOWER GROWTH OFFLOWERANDFERN. HALF-WAVUPISA FINE GROVE OF REDWOODS, NAMED AFTER JOHN MUIR, AUTHOR- NATURALIST, AND RECENTLY GIVEN TO THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT AS A FOREST RESERVE. MOUNT TAMAL- PAISANDTHE MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY TO THE SOUTH BRING THE REAL FOREST CLOSER TO SAN FRANCISCO THAN TO ANY OTHER AMERICAN CITY. f^'>, mfi^ \\ *vV K vv Ml vwv^ \f f ^^ f^ m^ SACRAMENTO STREET SACRAMENTO STREET IS ONE OF THE IMPORTANT THOROUGHFARES OF SAN FRANCISCO. IT RUNS WEST- WARD FROM THE FERRY, PASSING THROUGH CHINA- TOWN PARALLEL WITH CALIFORNIA STREET. IT HAS SOME OF THE STEEP GRADES OF THAT HILLY CLIMB, AS IT RISES TO THE BETTER RESIDENTIAL SECTIONS. THE SACRAMENTO STREET CAR LINE MAY BE TAKEN AT THE FERRY BUILDING. FROM THE WESTERN DIS- TRICT OF THE CITY IT RETURNS ON CLAY STREET AND PASSES PORTSMOUTH SQUARE. ^fy" THE CITIES SERIES A brilliant series of drawings by eminent artists, with illustrations in photogravure and gravure-tint, mounted A LITTLE BOOK OF LONDON 25 drawings in photogravure by Joseph Pennell. In decorative covers, net 50 cents. In Japanese vellum with illustrations mounted, net $1.00 THE GREAT NEW YORK 24 drawings in photogravure by Joseph Pennell. In decorative covers, net 50 cents. In Japanese vellum with illustrations mounted, net $1.00 GLASGOW, THE CITY OF THE WEST 24 drawings in photogravure of Old Glasgow by Jessie M. King. In decorative covers, net 50 cents EDINBURGH, THE GREY CITY OF THE NORTH 24 drawings of Old Edinburgh by Jessie M. King. In decorative covers, net 50 cents DWELLINGS OF AN OLD-WORLD TOWN IN FIFE- SHIRE 26 drawings by Jessie M. King. In decorative covers, net 50 cents SAN FRANCISCO, THE CITY BY THE GOLDEN GATE 24 drawings in photogravure by Joseph Pennell. In decorative covers, net 75 cents VENICE, THE CITY OF THE DOGES 24 drawings in photogravure by Joseph Pennell. In decorative covers, net 75 cents Uniform, with the above series R. L. STEVENSON : MEMORIES Being twenty-five illustrations, reproduced from photographs, of Robert Louis Stevenson, his homes and his haunts. Many of these reproduced for the first time. A booklet for every Stevenson lover. In decorative covers, net 50 cents LE ROY PHILLIPS, PUBLISHER 29A BEACON STREET, BOSTON FRIENDSHIP BOOKS Printed in two colors, and in attractive bindings, net $l.oo. Bound in finest Velvet Persian, net $1.50 An attempt has been made in these books to issue at the lowest possible price, with the aid of the latest modern processes of color reprodtiction, a finely produced series, sumptuously decorated and illustrated, so as to form attractive presentation books RUBAIYAT OF OMAR KHAYYAM With illustrations in color by F. Brangwyn THE GIFT OF FRIENDSHIP With illustrations in color by H. C. Preston Macgoun THE GIFT OF LOVE A collection of the noblest passages in literature dealing with love selected by A. H. Hyatt. With illustrations in color by Lewis Baumer SAPPHO, QUEEN OF SONG A selection from her love poems by J. R. Tutin, with illustrations in color by E. H. R. Collings AUCASSIN AND NICOLETTE With introduction by F. W. Bourdillon, and illustrations in color by Marjorie Nash THE CHARM OF LIFE With illustrations in color by Frederick Gardner THE BOOK OF GOOD FRIENDSHIP With illustrations in color by H. C. Preston Macgoun THE GARDEN LOVER'S BOOKS In attractive bindings, net $1.00. Bound in finest Velvet Persian, net $1.50 The latest modem processes of color reproduction have been employed in illustrating- and decorating this series A BOOK OF GARDENS Illustrated in color by Margaret H. Waterfibld A BOOK OF OLD-WORLD GARDENS Illustrated in color by Beatrice Parsons GARDEN MEMORIES iilus. m color by Mary G. W. Wilson LE ROY PHILLIPS, PUBLISHER 29A beacon street, boston. 