Descriptive guide book of the Watkins glen
F 129 ^E6 ■Ok -■^ ---«*• A>...<A _-^ -..♦/', o > *bV" o^. *.. * AT r!* ,:b^^^. ^^ *'^v;^' .<^f v-^^ .s^"- ^^0^ ^*^°.<. .^' DESCRIPTIVE AIHD ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO- VatKins Glen I AND ITS ROMANTIC SURROUNDINGS. Manager. WATKINS GLEN AND GLEN MOUNTAIN HCUSE. DESCRIPTIVE GUIDE BOOK WSll'KItJ'^ G^I^i^N" (Located near WatMns— Heail of Seneca Lake-Scinyler CO., N Y.) I^OMA^ITIC ^URF^OUJ^DIJ^Qp. SIXTH EDITION, CORRECTED AND REVISED By a. J. MICHENER. r .-'0.^3 L/C 1 PHILADELPHIA: CULBERTSQN & BaCHE, PRINTERS, N. E. CoR. ElGHTH AND JaYNE StS. 1879. Entered According to Act of Congress, in the year 1S79, by A. J. MICHEXKR, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. .,. ^HE WATKINS GLEN, near the village of Watkins— named §^ after its founder, Dr. Samuel Watkins, a native of England — was embraced through its entire length of more than three miles, in the " Watkins and Flint purchase." This tract was obtained from the Indians, nearly a century ago, and covered a " large tract of country " around the head of Seneca Lake. Dr. Watkins suc- ceeded to the title of an elder brother's estate, and thus became the owner of thousands of acres of land at the " Head of the Lake ;" and within the limits of his domain reposed for many years in silence and solitude this, now famous and popular, Watkins Glen. After the death of Dr. Watkins, in the year 1851, this Glen and much more of his real estate fell to his widow, who subsequently became the wife of Geo. G. Freer, Esq., County Judge and Surro- gate of the County of Schuyler. In 1863 the idea of unsealing this mysterious " Book of Nature" and opening its successive pages to the eyes of the " outer world," was conceived by M. Ells, a resident of Watkins, who deserves great credit for the measures he took to carry out his plan, by the construction of staircases, pathways, railings, bridges, and a minia- ture chalet on the site of the present one, called the "Evergreen," and by announcing through the press of the surrounding country that on and after the 4th day of July, 1863, Watkins Glen would be open as a Summer Resort for Visitors, and a claimant for a share of the favors annually bestowed upon Niagara, Saratoga, the White Mountains, the Catskills, the Thousand Islands, Mammoth Cave, &c., &c. The popular response far exceeded the most sanguine expecta- tions. From 8,000 to 10,000 persons visited the Glen during the 6 ^.^WATl^II^S BXHDI^^s balance of the season ; and their number has continued to increase annually from that time to the present, from all sections of the United States and Canadas, including many from the Old World. This extraordinary popularity of the Glen was due, not alone to the beauty, magnificence and grandeur of its scenery ; but to the gene- rous courtesy of the newspaper and magazine press, which gave it a world-wide notoriety, in a brief time, that would have required many years to accomplish ; and acknowledgments are due for their services in bringing before the American jjeople one of the many charming and romantic Scenic Wonders for which our favored country is be- coming justly celebrated throughout the civilized world. Watkins Glen has become so widely known, and the number of yearly visitors so large, the necessity of a descriptive Guide-book has been greatly felt, and the many inquiries for such a work led to the preparation of this. The writer has endeavored to meet the wants of the visitor by giving a simjjle description of the scenery of this wonderful Glen without attempting to embellish as fully as its merits deserve — only making it a guide-book, pointing out the various objects of interest, in order that all may be seen and the services of a living guide ren- dered unnecessary. The heights, distances, &c., have been given from the most reliable estimates ; for, owing to the peculiar con- formation of this locality, actual measurement is impracticable. They may not in all cases be exact, but are generally correct. Many visitors meet with inconvenience and disappointment by not knowing the kinds of dress proper to be worn while going through the Glen. Water-proof suits can be obtained at the Glen Mountain House Bazaar, at a small exi)ense, and will be found a great convenience. It is frequently necessary to use the hands in climbing the stairways, and consequently a long dress is inconvenient to manage. In many places the i)aths are (juite narrow, bordered by ferns and mosses that collect moisture, for which long skirts are unsuited. The less there is to encumber the free use of the feet and arms, the better : long cloaks, shawls, parasols, iVc, are inconvenient and superfluous, and should be left at the Bazaar, on the upward trip. The dress should be of woolen material, for even in mid-summer the Glen is cool, and in many places quite damp. Any hat will do, but one that will not be injured by an occasional drop of water is the best. It matters less about suitable dress in the case of gentle- men. Silk hats are the only articles liable to suffer much from the trip. A stout cane, which can be obtained at the Swiss Cottage, will be found a valuable assistance in climbing. In passing through the Glen, it is not well to wander from the regular paths, as a desire to explore new localities, or obtain a view from some difficult point, might be attended with danger. iVnd here, a word of caution. Visitors will observe placards at several places, warning them not to throw stones into the Glen. Many do this to hear the noise made by the stones, crashing down through the trees and over the rocks. The reasons why it should not be allowed are obvious. We would also like to say a word with regard to those who are ambitious to immortalize themselves by carving their names and the dates of their visitation upon the face of the rocks, staircases, bridges, trees, &c., that it is expressly forbidden. Pic-nic parties are respectfully requested not to strew papers, egg- shells, and the remains of their repasts, in conspicuous places along the pathways in the Glen, or where they will mar the beauties of the scenery. The proper time for visiting the Glen is from the first of June to the first of November. We would advise visitors going through the Glen to take advantage of all the seats and every convenient place for rest. The scenery fills the visitors with wonder, and causes so much eagerness to press on to the end, the air is so invigorating, and the journey affords so much pleasure that they are apt to entirely forget bodily fatigue, and find upon coming out into the world again, a kind of reaction, and that they are very much exhausted. a^WATI^II^S BXI]I^->^^ TO SENECA LAKE. PERCIVAL. On thy fair bosom, silver Lake, The wild swan spreads his snowy sail And round his breast the ripples break, As down he bears before the gale. On thy fixir bosom, waveless stream, The dipping paddle echoes far, Arid flashes in the moonlight gleam. And bright reflects the polar star. The waves along thy pebbly shore, As blows the north wind, heave their foam, And curl around the dashing oar, As late the boatman hies him home. How sweet, at set of sun, to view Thy golden mirror spreading wide, And see the mist of mantling blue Float round the distant mountain's side. At midnight hour as shines the moon, A sheet of silver spreads below, And swift she cuts, at highest noon, Light clouds, like wreaths of purest snow. On thy fair bosom, silver Lake, Oh ! I could ever sweep the oar, When early birds at morning wake, And evenini; tells us toil is o'er. *HERE is not to be found a more strikingly wonderful and beautiful freak of nature than Watkins Glen. Differing in all its characteristics, from any other remarkable locality of natural interest, it has as distinct an individuality as Mount Blanc, the Falls of Niagara, or the Mammoth Cave. The Glen is situated in Schuyler county, N. Y., near the head of Seneca Lake, between two ranges of hills which seem to have been torn asunder in the formation of this narrow valley. It consists pro- perly of a number of Glens, or sections, rising one above another, and extending about three miles, forming a series of rocky arcades, galleries and grottoes, subterranean at times, and again widening out into vast amphitheatres, the grandeur and magnificence of which cannot be fully realized by description. The general course of the Glen is east and west, and the total ascent about six hundred feet. It forms the channel for a limpid stream, which follows its eccentric course, miking the descent from section to section by a myriad of cascades and rapids, the beauty and variety of which is unequalled. The Glen lies west of and partly within the village of Watkins, which is on the 'Northern Central R. R., connecting at Canandaigua, with the New York Central R. R. ; at Elmira, with the N. Y. L. E. & W. (old Erie), and Lehigh Valley R. R's. ; and at Harrisburg with the Penna. R. R. ; while the Syracuse, Geneva and Corning R. R. Crosses the Glen near its most westerly terminus. j^ks 5.^7 »i**t» ^v'^ME; SENECA LAKE. It is also reached by a line of steamers, running from Geneva to Watkins, touching at all points along the lake. This is a delight- ful way of reaching the Glen from the north, as the scenery of this beautiful lake is e(iual to anything on the Continent. The steamers are of the most comfortable kind, commaniled by ])olite and efficient officers, and every attention is paid to the convenience and comfort of the passengers. It will be seen therefore, that the Glen is accessible from all directions. * ----^- , j:zj- The following detailed description of the ascent is herewith pre- sented in such a manner that the visitor may find it a material guide in pointing out many things which might escape notice. Passing up Franklin street from the Railroad Station or Steamboat Landing, a few minutes' walk brings us to the entrance. On either side abrupt hills loom up like monster sentinels, and from between them a limpid little stream, buffeted by rocks, and broken into a hundred cascades, runs out, and winds quietly across the level valley to the lake, as though tired from its angry and tortuous passage through the Glen, it was now resting, idly reflecting the sunbeams before taking its final submergence in the cool depths of the lake. Turning from the street, we enter the defile between the guarding hills, and the first object that attracts our attention as we commence our pilgrimage is a vast rocky ENTRANCE AMPHITHEATRE, the walls of which rise on either side nearly 200 feet above our heads. Ahead of us the walls almost meet, and farther passage seems barred, with the exception of a narrow rift in the rocks, as if they had by some mighty power, been torn asunder. Before proceeding, however, we pass beneath and around the base of the overhanging rocks, where we obtain a fine view of one of the wildest scenes of the Glen — the ENTRANCE CASCADE, which is a narrow thread of water, shooting out from an angle in the rocks, sixty feet above, and dashing into a dark cavernous pool of unknown depth below. At our feet slumbers the Fish Pool, broad, deep, clear, and irregular in form, so named from the immense num- ber of the finny tribe which come up from the lake during high water in the spring and early summer. We now ascend a strong and secure staircase and find ourselves in what is called GLEN ALPHA. As we continue, we observe the channel makes a sharp turn to the 12 ^-^^WATIKIHS ©ILBH®^^ left, which accounts for the ajjparent obstruction. At the head of the staircase is a little bridge spanning the chasm, known as SENTRY BRIDGE, where we pause a few moments to rest, and take a look through the amphitheatre we have just left, and down through the jagged edges of rock to the deep blue basin, broken into circling ripples by the falling column of water, out across the smiling valley to the green hills beyond. Here, for the first time, the delightful sensation produced by the invigorating and inspiring atmosphere, as it draws down through the Glen, steals over us. The air is cool, t'resh and bracing; laden with sweet odors, the fragrance of many flowers. Looking upward from the point where we now stand, what a sight bursts upon us ! Towering and irregular cliffs of dark rock, angular and sullen, rise one above another till they appear to meet in the clouds, and seem to forbid apjjroach ! At niuiierous places in the Glen we pause, and wonder how it is possible to go much farther, the way appears imjiassable, and the distance so inaccessible ; but as we advance the path always opens, and gives for more interest to the ascent than though we could clearly mark our way before us. Crossing Sentry Bridge, we ascend a short flight of steps on the south side, and before us lies a pathway cut in the solid rock, leading along under the overhanging cliffs, a few feet above the stream. We are now fairly in STILLWATER GORGE where the various hues and tints of the rock, the eccentric combina- tions of curves and angles, seem as if nature had endeavored to see what wildly grotesque and yet beautiful images she could produce. We n()w catch a glimpse of the second cascade, called MINNEHAHA, which is beautiful, irregular, and yet full of grace. The water, broken [K@-®MEK^^ 13 several times in its fall, is dashed into foam and spray which forms a brilliant contrast to the dark, rocky sur- roundings. About thirty feet above Minnehaha is the FAIRY CASCADE, which with one graceful "!^*'.->/ 'v. bound leaps into Neptune's pool Following the patl we come to a rustic seat from which a charm ing view is obtained in MINNEHAHA. both directions." Looking up from this point, the view is called CAVERN [gorge, and for wildness and grandeur is unsurpassed by any in the Glen. 14 ^^^WATJ^iKS BxnDiN: >-^ And here it would be well to advise visitors not to i)ress on too eagerly, but to proceed deliberately, and fre- quently look back, as in many cases the views we have passed are the finest. Looking forward at the narrow gorge we are about entering, we see a staircase above us, and beyond that still another, almost perpen- dicular in its position, and of great height. This portion of the Glen is called THE LABYRINTH, and the channel of the stream here is very nar- row. A little farther under the shelving cliffs of rock, and we are at the foot of the Long Stair- case referred to, which leads to the top of the north cliff. Here we are in a strangely wild and interesting place. If we pass by a little way, before ascending the Stair- case, we find ourselves in a cavern, almost circular in form, dark and damp, called cavern cascade. the Grotto, directly behind the sheet of water. No one should fail to visit this weird chamber. Here the CAVERN CASCADE leaps from the rocks above, down forty or fifty feet, in a single col- umn, not altogether unlike the Entrance Cascade, but much grander. The rocky walls of the Grotto reverberate the echoes of the falling water until the sound is fairly deafening, and the light of the "outer world " gleaming through the transparent stream in front of you, gives it the appearance of molten silver. Returning to the staircase, the downward view from the foot of which is called Whirlwind Gorge, we ascend seventy feet, and are glad to avail ourselves of the rustic seat at the top. The view had from the head of the staircase, is called THE VISTA, and the effect is very fine. After emerging from the dark chasm, we see before us silvery cascades, quiet pools and moss garnished walls, overarched by stately forest trees, and thick shrubbery, with a broad light flooding the distance ; and far above through the emerald foli- age, like a web of gossamer, is seen the beautiful Iron Bridge span- ning the Glen. After a refreshing rest, we again start upon our journey, and turn sharply to the right, by a new path that leads towards the entrance of the Glen, along the verge of the gorge, where the wildness of the scene is truly impressive. We climb a short flight of steps and stand at POINT LOOK-OFF, where the path runs out to the top of a high cliff, and commands a beautiful view of Glen Alpha in the depths below. We are forcibly impressed with the beauty of the foliage, which appears all the brighter as we emerge from the dark recesses of the Glen. It is a singular fact, that nowhere, upon the American Continent, can such a range of vegetation be found within such narrow limits. On the northern slopes in sheltered nooks protected from the winds, and in THE GROTTO. a great measure from frost and snow, exposed to the warm rays of the sun, the vegetation is ahnost tropical. Especially among the lower orders, plants are here found, that are indigenous to Tennes- see and the Carolinas. The fern family is largely represented, and some of the most beautiful specimens are found. Many of the varie- ties attain a degree of luxuriance that astonishes the student familiar with them. Exposed to the keen north winds, high up on the southern cliffs, plants are found that belong far to the north. Stunted firs, mosses and lichens, that are rarely seen south of the Hudson's Bay country, are here represented. Pursuing this delightful path, by a gradual ascent, we come upon a building in the form of a chalet called the SWISS COTTAGE, erected upon the site originally occupied by the " Evergreen," be- fore mentioned, and now forming a portion of the Glen Mountain House, perched on a sort of natural shelf, loo feet above the level of the stream, and 200 feet above the level of Glen Alpha, overlooking The Vista, and nestling among the trees and shrubbery. When we reflect upon the labor attendant upon getting the timbers and lumber used in the construction of buildings, staircases and bridges to their present position — it being impossible to use horses for the purpose — and reflect that thousands of feet of the pathways, and many of the stairs, are cut in the solid rock, and that hundreds of obstructions and threatening masses of stone had to. be removed, we see that pa- tience and indefatigable perseverance have surmounted all difficulties.. From the spacious promenades on the verandahs of the Swiss Cot- tage and the bridge across the Glen we have several fine views of the gorge, the winding stream and cascades above and below. A few rods above the Mountain House is situated hope's art gallery, which was built by Captain J. Hope, late of 82 Fifth Avenue, New York, and contains a superb collection of more than one hundred SWISS CHALET. s^WAIPMIKI . fejfciS 19 of his finest and most celebrated paintings. Here can be seen some of the leading scenes in Watkins Glen, and its surroundings ; also views in New England, Virginia, California, Europe, &c., (Sec, chief among which, are his celebrated picture of RAINBOW FALLS, in Watkins Glen, and his great historical painting of the ARMY OF THE POTOMAC, Guests can spend many a pleasant hour here, and no visitor to the Glen should fail to see this splendid collec- tion. There is a small fee for admission to this gallery, as it does * ^ • "^^^^^^'^^^ '^T^' I not belong to the Glen. A short distance beyond is a platform, erected for the use of pic-nic and other parties. Our way now lies through the woods, by a shaded path, and is called SYLVAN GORGE. which was until recently inaccessible, but now open, and is one of the wildest, most beautiful and interesting portions of the Glen. There are two paths, and to enjoy it fully, one should ascend 20 e^^WAIPMIK® ©iEM^^ by one and return by the other. Continuing, we take the Sylvan Path, turning abruptly to the left near the platform, and follow the path winding down through the stately forest. We pause on Forest Cliff to enjoy the magnificent view down the A'ista. From beneath the green sylvan arches we look down into the depths, with picturesque tree-clad cliffs on either hand. To the left, perched on a jutting crag, more than a hundred feet above the bed of the stream^ we catch a glimpse of Hope's Art Gallery, and rustic arbor, mid their emerald surroundings ; while far beyond the tasteful structure of the iron bridge spans the chasm ; and the \ie\v finally dies away and is lost in the shadows of Whirlwind Gorge. Turning, we pursue the path, pausing oft to admire the mossy slopes that crown the chasm, and to gaze down ujjon Diamond Fall, and all the wild sur- roundings of forest, rock and stream. Our walk through the woods gradually descends until we are nearly on a level with the stream ; and here in the rocks, in all directions, are found the remains of the same kind of pools that are now seen in the bed of the stream. A word on the formation of these peculiar pools may not prove uninteresting to those who are not already familiar with them. In the early spring, when the stream is very liigh, and the ice breaking uj), large quantities of rock, bowl- ders and gravel are carried down, forced along by the tremendous power of the water ; and sometimes these bowlders lodge in a natural seam in the rock, or in a curve in the bed of the stream, and are there whirled and rolled around, imtil, aided by the gravel that collects, they gradually grind out these basins or pools in the softer rock beneath. This process, going on for years, has worn some of them to an immense size. In many instances, the bowlders have been forced from their resting places at the bottom of the jjooI and carried away ; but in a greater number of cases, especially in the upper Glens, they are still to be seen in the l)asins they have carved. The remains of these basins are, in many places, to be seen now, where the channel has deepened, or changed and left them. Proceeding on our journey, our path leads us down toward the water again, where we see a succession of little rapids and cascades leaping 3^ca."WATIKIIP^S BlIEM-^-^ ENTRANCE TO CATHtDRAL. 2 2 ^..^eWA^MIi^^ 'BiLEH^i^ into Sylvan Gorge, of which this is the upj)er termination, called the SYLVAN RAPIDS, and they glide and dance very beautifully through their irregular rocky channel. At the head of the Sylvan Rapids a rustic bridge spans the stream, from which, as we cross to the south side, we ha\-e a delight- ful bird's-eye view down through Sylvan Gorge, with its many wind- ings and mysterious recesses. Below the bridge is the " Bath Tub," which will be readily recognized by its perfect resemblance to that necessary article. Looking upward, we find ourselves in GLEN CATHEDRAL, and here obtain the best general view of this masterpiece of Nature's- handiwork. All description fails, and words are inadequate to paint a ])icture that would do this subject justice, or convey to the mind an idea of its grandeur. The Cathedral is an immense oblong amphi- theatre, nearly an eighth of a mile in length. The Glen is here wider than in any other point ; t^e rocky walls tower to a great height — o\er three hundred feet — and are richly tajjestried with mosses and clinging vines, and crowned with lofty pines and other evergreen trees. The floor is composed of a smooth and even surface of rock ; the vaulted arch of the sky forms the dome. In the upper end the CENTRAL CASCADK forms the C'hoir, and, as it dashes from rock to rock, sings continual hymns of praise to the Infinite Power that created this mighty temple. Alluding to the i)eculiar feelings inspired by this stupen- dous work of nature, a friend who once visited it, said : " I have often reflected upon the insignificance of man, but never so fully realized what a mere atom I was in this incomprehensible universe, as when standing in this vast Cathedral and looking up at its towering walls." Recrossing the stream, we take the path along the north bank, in ^fei^ 23 THE'CATHEDRAL. ■24 e^si^^ the shade of immensely tall forest trees ; pausing midway for another look at the amber waters, that spread over the level floor, and at Eagle Cliff that rears its stately head above its fellows. Situated near the upper end of the Cathedral, is a large and beautiful pool, called the BAPTISMAL FONT. This is one of the most remarkable of these natural basins, singular for its regularity and the surpassing beauty of its form, and we are -astonished, more than ever before, by the wonderful clearness and ■purity of the water, whicli, as the sun strikes into it, sparkles until it is fairly radiant. The smallest objects upon the bottom are clearly ■discernible, in pools where the water is ten or fifteen feet cieep, while its refracting and distorting powers are very great. We now ascend the GRAND STAIRCASE, "which is broken by a i)latform and about seventy feet in height. Passing along on the cliff a few rods, we come to a short flight of stairs leading down to the VERANDAH, •descending wliich, we obtain one of the finest views of the Central Cascade at our feet. This tall of al)out sixty feet is very beautiful, angular and irregular, yet symmetrical ; while far above, projecting through the trees, is seen Pulpit Rock. Re-ascending, we find our- selves in the GLEN OF THE POOLS, so named from the number of rock basins it contains. Pursuing the path on the north bank a short distance to a point directly over Central Cascade, and looking back down through Glen Cathedral, we have the poet's DREAM, a truly magnificent scene, ^^'e come now to another rustic bridge, below which is the Mermaids' Pool, and looking up we have, what has been appropriately termed, the MATCHLESS SCENE, which view seems to combine within itself all the manifold beauties of the Glen, and is indescribable. Broken and angular in its formation, rock and water, cascades and deep pools, winding channels and seething rapids, foliage and sky, all combine in a chaotic inter- mingling, yet form a harmonious and picturesque whole. As we fol- low the pathway cut in the rock we are never tired of admiring the manifold beauties of the water ; and the sunlight shimmering down through the foliage strikes into the pools, waking their crystal depths into life ; while new phases of magical beauty surprise us at every step, like the ever varying changes in a kaleidoscope. Leaving this point we follow the path on the south bank, through this section of the Glen, employing our time in examining the ■curious structure of the pools, one of which especially will be noticed, called the Horse-Shoe. We now come to a little staircase on the south bank, by which we ascend to a more elevated path ; but before we do, Ave pass by it and a little further up the Glen, to obtain a fine view of the TRIPLE CASCADE AND RAINBOW FALLS. The Triple Cascade is deemed by many to be the finest in the Glen. As its name indicates, it is composed of three portions, one above another, each different in form from the others, and forming a beau- tiful combination. Just below the Triple Cascade, on the south side, a little brook leaps over the brow of a great high cliff, down into the Glen, trickling over the irregular surface of the rock, until it reaches a point twelve or fifteen feet above the pathway where it falls over a projecting shelf, the edge of which is curved outward in a crescent form. The water does not descend in a smooth sheet, but in a myriad of tiny threads and drops, forming a sparkling crystal veil, behind which the pathway leads. This novel cascade is known as 26 ^-cvC^WA^IKIWB ©ILIEM®^ Rainbow Falls. Beyond and above the Triple Cascade, sjjanning a narrow pass in the gorge, we see the Platform Staircase, ^while far above our heads, on the north bank, Castle Cliff is seen through the trees. This section of the Glen of the Pools is called the Giant's Gorge. We return to the little staircase before mentioned, and ascend to the elevated pathway, taking in new views of the Triple Cascade at every step, and come to the RAINBOW FALL, behind which we pass. The space between the fall and the cliff is narrow, but sufficiently wide to allow free passage. While standing behind the fall and looking out through the misty curtain, the novelty of the position, and the peculiar brilliancy that the radiant drops of falling water impart to everything viewed through them, fill us with wonder, and is beautiful beyond comparison. From June to Sep- tember, when fair weather prevails, and the rays of the sun fall into the gorge from the west, the enraptured visitor, in looking through the veil in the afternoon, beholds two most beautiful rainbows, a primary and secondary; a sight, once enjoyed, that can never be forgotten. We take a backward look at Glen of the Pools, and Matchless Scene, pass the Triple Cascade, and under overhanging rocks come to a staircase leading to an inclined platform, called PLATFOR.M STAIRCASE. Here are seats, which we find very welcome after our climb, and where we obtain a fine retrospective view of the Glen of the Pools, with its ragged gorges, and a more defined view of the Rain- bow Fall, showing its course before it takes its final leap, while below us lies Diana's Bath, a clear pool, nearly twenty feet deep. We are now to pass through SHADOW GORGK. in which portion of the Glen some of the most severe labor was per- formed, and its final accom])lishment was a high compliment to the engineering skill of those who had it in charge. We leave the platform, ascend to and follow the path along the south cliff, where it is narrow and cut in the solid, rocky face of the cliff. It winds in and out, fol- lowing the cur\ es of the gorge, and is high above the water. We now see RAINBOW tALL AND TRIPLt CAb-AlE. ^8 ^-^^WATIKEM^ (BliBM^-^ liow api^ropriately this has been naaied the Shadow Gorge. The trees on the cliffs above are very high, and in many places almost meet overhead ; and as the light strikes down through them their shadows are reproduced in the pools below, forming a combination of beautiful lights and shadows that surpasses descrijjtion. Here the stream seems a succession of basins connected by rapids and little falls, while ahead of us is another rustic bridge spanning the stream, .and a little beyond it is the KMERALD POOL, one of the most beautiful of the basins ; very regular in form, bot- tom covered with gravel, and water of great purity and brilliance. Looking up the Glen, our journey seems about to come to a sudden termination, shut off by a wall as regular as if composed of solid masonry, but as we crojs the bridge and follow the pathway, we see on approaching, that the Glen makes a sudden turn to the right, around this FROWNING CI.IKK that appeared to obstruct our further progre.ss. At this place the seams in the rock intersect each other at right angles, giving to the whole the effect of masonry. The corner formed by this cliff on the south side, conveys the idea of the work of htnnan hands, and is named the riI,I,.\R OK r.K.VUTV. Directly at the foot of this cliff is a large and very deep pool. The water in which is from twelve to fifteen feet deep, and as clear as ■crystal ; and as it passes under the sharp angle of the cliff, it mirrors in its pellucid depths an inverted picture of the frowning rocks and graceful foliage above. The mosses and ferns are here very fine. These cliffs mark the entrance to the section called GLEN ARCADI.V, and it well deserves the name, for a nnrc jierfect Elysium cannot be imagined. The scene before us has been called THK artist's ORKAM. where all the beauties of the other Glens, silver cascades and crystal ^^eWATMHWS ©ILEHa^ 29 ARTISTS DREAM. 30 s^jWATI^IIN^S BjLIEK's^-^ ])ools, light and shadow, sharjj angles and graceful curves, foliage, sky and rock, mingle and protluce a picture that more resembles an ecstatic dream than anything that can elsewhere be found. The rocks do not here tower to such immense height, nor is the scenery so sublime as in some of the sections of the glens through which we ha\e passed, but what is lost in grandeur is more than atoned for in the wild beauty of the scene. Our \mxh now lies along the north cliff, on the rocky shelf some distance above the stream, and as the water trickles from above, and runs down o\er the rocks, our pathway is damp at some places, but not slippery. The gorge below us is known as the NARROW PASS, and is full of interest, as the Avails tower high on either side, and approach near together. After rounding another sharp curve, we are once more obliged to cross the stream by means of a bridge, and proceed along the south side, through the Narrow Pass, under shelving rocks that extend far out o\"er our heads. Passing around an angle, we come in sight of TLUTO FALLS, on which the rays of the sun never shine. It appears like a subter- ranean gallery, for the air is damp and cold, and the dashing and rumbling of the Fall, as it echoes through the pass, adds to the gloomy sublimity of the spot. As we draw nearer we ascend a short rocky staircase, where we obtain a fine view of the fall, which is one of singular beauty, and essentially different in form from any we have yet seen, as it falls into a dark basin which is very deep, and extends about thirty feet under the rock on the edge of the stream. We climb around the Fall, and stop to take a farewell look at the Narrow Pass, or, as it is called when viewed from this point back- ward, the Spiral Gorge. Our course now lies along the south side to the head of Glen Arcadia, and the way is clear, though " wondrous crooked," before us. The rapids here are the most beautiful in all the Glen. The channel is tortuous, and, as in the Glen of the Pools, consists of a 31 THE NARROW PASS. 32 ®^s succession of curiously carved basins connected by narrow rapids and cascades. The largest of these basins is called the POOL OF THE NYMPHS. Passing under shelving rocks, we finally arrive at the head of the section, formed by the^\rcadian Fall. This is a beautiful cascade, falling into a kind of natural grotto'; and at its foot is a beautiful basin. Near the head of this section a staircase leads to the north cliff, and a few rods of pathway brings us to another rustic bridge, thrown across the chasm [directly above or over Arcadian Fall, for the purpose of giving visitors a fine rear view of Glen Arcadia, which, viewed from this romantic spot is called ELFIN GORGE, and is a scene of rare and enchanting beauty. This bridge is the dividing line be- tween Glen Arcadia and GLEN FACILITV, the latter so called because of the com- parative ease with which it may be ex- plored, except in times of high water. The most important o\ the great natural beauties of the Glen terminate here, but many visitors go half I mile beyond, to see I lie magnificent new iron bridge of the Syr- acuse, Geneva & Cor- nrng Railway Co., which spans the Glen at a height of 165 feet above the water, well meriting a visit. We have passed through two and a half miles :, are six hundred feet above our start- ing point, and satisfied with an endless cliange and variety of iscenery, enter GLEN HORICON. lialf a mile above Elfin Gorge and beyond the railroad bridge above mentioned, which consists of a large basin or amphitheatre, con- taining some twelve to fifteen acres, with steep wooded banks, several hundred feet high, broken into curves and promontories, the lower level of which is a barren " pathway of the floods," and the whole a picture of commingled grandeur and solitude, terminating in a winding, rocky gorge, called GLEN ELYSIUM, because of its natural beauties of water, lawn and grove, and its susceptibility of being made one of the most attractive and delight- , ful pleasure grounds imaginable. It is a vast area, nearly a half mile long, and one-fourth of a mile wide, containing within its lofty, sloping banks, not less than fifty acres, filled with cozy rural retreats, carpeted with grasses and mosses, overlooked by giant trees, and graced and adorned with a wondrous variety of foliage. After leaving Glen Elysium, we come to Omega Fall — the last — and beyond this Fall, which is one of the most complicated and beau- tiful in the series, GLEN OMEGA stretches westward for half a mile or more, till it opens out in the " hill country " like a great fan; and the Glen comes to an end nearly three miles from its beginning at the entrance of the Glen Alpha. 34 ^^WA^]KI^^ BXi:i^33^ After a quiet rest we start on our return, taking it leisurely, and stopping- frequently to admire the numberless beauties that escaped us on our ascent. And, we may here say, that the Glen is so extensive, and the beauties so varied that one may make many visits, and yet each time find new features that he had not hitherto observed. Sometimes a difference of a few feet in a position will materially alter the outline of the picture. It is frequently the case that the visitor more fully realizes and appreciates the extent, sublimity and grand- eur of the Glen, after he has once or twice accomplished its ascent. Here we stop a few minutes to look with wonder, down into the grand old Cathedral, and finally, after descending the staircase, pass- ing through the Cathedral, and retracing the winding path through the woods, we find ourselves again at the Swiss Chalet. It is a most wel- come spot, and its refreshments are very acceptable. Here can be obtained the best selection of Stereoscopic Views, by eminent artists, of Watkins and Havana Glens, all of which are faithful copies of the most striking points of interest, and enable the tourist, on return- ing hcnne, to keep in vivid remembrance the many pleasant associa- tions connected with his visit. The Glen Mountain House Bazaar, with its comfortable lounges, is a delightful resting place, where visit- ors can find many a little souvenir to take with them to the eager, ex- pecting ones at home, and we advise all to avail themselves of the opportunity of securing some memento of Watkins Glen. Crossing to the south side by the Iron Suspension Bridge, we come to the Glen Mountain House, a large and commodious building, fitted up in a manner to ensure the comfort and convenience of guests, whether it be for a day, a week, or a month. We notice near the end of the bridge, on the south side, a sign- board which reads "TO SUMMIT LOOK-OUT." Our wonder is excited, and as we do not wish to miss any of the beautiful surroundings of this wonderful place, thitherward we i^ ^^"VTATI^IP^S BXlDP^si^ bend our stejjs ; on we go by a winding and continually ascending^ path, passing through a beautiful wood^ till we arrive at SUMMIT LOOK-OUT - which well deserves the name, as it is the highest point in the vicinity, and commands a fine view of the Lake for nearly thirty miles. Another path brings us back by a nearer route to the House. On the north, or Glen side of the Mountain House east of the bridge, visitors will notice a staircase leading down into the Glen ; and a stroll in that direction will well repay a visit. As we walk along the path with the high rocks jutting far over our heads, and under the Suspension Bridge loo feet above us, we are struck with wonder at the grandeur of the scene. After loitering here awhile, we retrace our steps, and are once more at the Swiss Chalet, ready to resume our homeward journey, but not by the path we came ; because another i)ath is recommended as promising fresh beauties. Leaving the Swiss Cottage, instead of following the path that leads to tiie Lang Staircase, we take one that bears to the left, along the slope of the hill, called Cliff Avenue, or one bearing to the north. 