Across Central America
None
Miwiftijiiii "ij???^ >«*»«rt,5. ■■y^*^,f'*f'^■'^«i'^i'^^>e^'^^^'<^,'''-^*^■^it'^^^^t^0^ltmt^|titfl0^ m wm b \J EX LIBRIS C. W. ELMENHORST y cr t » ••■ ■* ' ' ■ * •*■ • ACROSS CENTRAL AMERICA. ft »' '*'i-'^,, ./.*''*: ,. r * -^ # '< ^v V SEPROHIBE ^ •wroyor y/o marginor, este libra, * ,^ -^.SE.COfiSAR/. ft TR>pft.DESU VALOR ^ «,. , ^-. < , t ^ ' ; ir» , . ' . '. ^ ^*» '*■.■ "# '"^ •' 4 • ,. ^ --^^ ' ': •*■* ^ .^. #■' ' '^ y.**- *?'' ■ -*€-■" * * i ♦ * 4* *^ .*?^ *■ ij^ ■ft* f N /AOll ^.^ AJVl ^'••-^Hi'*^e||ii'-i i'» i ^»^i£^- I Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Universidad Francisco IVIarroquin M '« http://www.archive.org/details/acrosscentralOOboddguat \CROSS CENTRAL AMERICA J. W. BODDAM WHETIIAM, ATTTHOn OF ' PRARLS OF TIIR PACIFIC," AND SvFSrKRX AV AXDRPvIXOS. LO N D 0 N : HUE8T ANT) BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, 13 GHKAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1877. All Eights reaerved. 0-T2*--)D<, "72335 ^ PREFACE, N" the following pages I wish to give the reader an insight to a country not often visited by travellers, and which on that account may perhaps afford some interest. I arrived at the port of San Jose de Guatemala from San Francisco in October, 1875, proceeded to the city of Guatemala, and after some interesting trips, east and west, continued my journey northward. A good road took me as far as Coban in Alta Vera Paz, then by an Indian path over the mountain ranges I reached the Rio de la Pasion, which enabled me by canoe to land within' a few leagues of what has been called "the mysterious Lake of Peten." From Peten a journey of six days through the forest brought me to the village of Tenosique, situated on the Rio de la Pasion, which here assumes the name of Usumacinta ; thence by canoe to the island of Carmen in the Gulf of Mexico. W'- iv Preface, Of the wonderful ruins — evidences of ancient Indian civilization — which are so profusely scattered over this part of the continent I visited Quiche, Copan, and Palenque. These have been so ably dealt with both by pen and pencil by historians and explorers, that I have only ventured to give a general idea of them for the information of those who have not read the important works on Central America. If my readers only know as little of the subjects of this volume before taking it up as I did before I started on my journey, I trust they will in some measure be repaid by its perusal. J. W. B. W m CONTENTS CHAPTER I. PACIFIC PORTS— MAZATLAN—PRONUNCIADOS— BRIGANDS—JESUIT INFLUENCE — ACAPULCO— HARBOUR SCENES— A LAZY TOWN — A MEXICAN FORT— COAST RANGE — VOLCANOES— PACIFIC GALES — SAN JOSE AND GUATEMALA— CUSTOM HOUSE — PAINFUL INTEREST — DEPARTURE .... . . 1 CHAPTER 11. EN ROUTE TO THE CAPITAL— SCENERY — GAZZA LADRA — BREAKFAST — OX-TEAMS — NATIVE PLOUGH — ESCUINTLA— CHANGE OP SCENE — A MACHETE — FALLS OP SAN PEDRO MARTIR — AMATITLAN — NOPAL PLANTATIONS— COCHINEAL — REFRESHMENT — LAKE OF AMATITLAN— HOT SPRINGS— ASCENT— PLAIN OF GUATEMALA — —COURTESY— ARRIVAL IN CITY . . . .10 Contents, CHAPTER III. A MARKET SCENE— FRUITS AND VEGETABLES— A GENEROUS VENDOR — - DRESS — A SUPERSTITION — NOON — BEGGARS — THE PLAZA — A USEFUL CLOCK — CATHEDRAL — FOUNTAIN — UNDER THE COLONNADES— "MOSAIC— BATHING— AN ILLUSTRIOUS EXAM- PLE—CLIMATE— ASPECT OF CITY — INDIAN PORTERS — BUSI- NESS-HOUSES  DES MORTS — ENTRANCE TO CEMETERY — THE INTERIOR — A CONTRAST— PICKPOCKETS— EARLY HOURS — HOSPITALITY — SOCIETY — PRESIDENT BARRIOS— PRIESTS AND NUNS— EXAMINATION — PRESIDENTIAL CAPACITY— GOVERNMENT — IMPROVEMENTS — A NEW ROAD — PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS — THE THEATRE— A COINCIDENCE— PROGRESS— AMUSEMENTS— PICNICS — START FOR THE COAST . . . . .31 CHAPTER V. INDIAN MOUNDS — AQUEDUCT — INDIANS GOING TO MARKET — MIXCO — COMPOSITION OF AN AVERAGE VILLAGE— BARRANCAS- SANTA MARIA EARTHQUAKE— CATTLE FAIR—CHIMALTENANGO — LOOKING BACK — TEMPERATE ZONE— A FLOUR MILL — TECPAN — CHURCH— INDIANS — GOITRE— INTERIOR OF CHURCH — MIRACLE STONE — IXINCHE— ASCENT TO LOS ALTOS — ATITLAN — A WEIRD SCENE— A MARIMBA— RAINSTORM — ENCUENTROS — MOUNTAIN VIEWS — SANTO TOMAS — RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL — A FRUGAL MEAL — SANTA CRUZ DEL QUICHE  — IDOLS— THOUGHTS — ALPINE SCENERY— TOTO- NICAPAN— INDIANS OF LOS ALTOS— CAPTURE OF TOTONICAPAN —AN "ON DIT"— STRANGE ASPECT OF COUNTRY— WEALTHY INDIANS— QUEZALTENANGO— ITS VOLCANOES — PLAZA — ANCIENT DIET — CATHEDRAL — DEATH OF FLORES — A CENTRAL AMERICAN DRAWING-ROOM— A NEW ROAD— ALMOLONGA— HOT SPRINGS- POTTERY MANUFACTORY — INDIAN SUPERSTITIONS — AN INDIAN GOVERNOR— ASCENT OF VOLCANO OF QUEZALTENANGO . 58 CHAPTER VII. A MUD ROAD— MULES— BAD LANGUAGE— CHANGE OF VEGETATION — TREE FERNS— VIEW OF COAST— BIRDS — ARISTOLOCHIA — A FINCA — COFFEE ESTATES IN GUATEMALA — ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES— IDEAS ON SELLING AND BUYING PLANTATIONS — DESCRIPTION OF COFFEE RAISING— AVERAGE PRODUCTION — PROCESS OF PREPARING THE BERRY— LABOUR SYSTEM — COFFEL' CULTURE OF SERVICE TO THE COUNTRY — ESTIMATE OF COST AND PRODUCTION OF A NEW COFFEE PLANTATION . 71 CHAPTER VIII. A FINCA— COFFEE TREE— ANTS— HAMMOCK BRIDGE— GRAVE INDIANS— COSTA CUCA AND COSTA GRANDE— RETALULEN— AN INN— A FOREST KING— SAPOTE TREE— BIRDS— BUTTERFLIES — INDIAN WOMEN— A SPORTSMAN— PARROTS— CHITALON— VOL- CANOES—WASHERWOMEN— A KNOWING MULE — WIFE BEATING — PACING— COCOA PLANTATION — VAMPYRES — GOITRES— AN ANI- MATED FLOWER-BED— CUESTA D'ATITLAN— ASCENT— VIEW— A CURIOUS TREE— INDIAN SUPERSTITION — CABILDS— LIGHTNING EFFECTS ........ 83 viii Contents, CHAPTER IX. LAKE OF ATITLAN— INDIAN LEGENDS— CEEEO DE ORO— GEM OP ATITLAN -— CUESTA — NORVAL —VIEW OP LAKE — GODINES — NAMES IN GUATEMALA — STEEP PRECIPICE — EXCHANGE OP CIVI- LITIES— ASCENT TO TABLE LAND— PATZTJN — FEAST DAY — TO ANTIGUA — ACCOUNT OP THE DESTRUCTION OP THE TWO OLD CAPITALS— ENTRANCE TO CITY .... 102 CHAPTER X. A SANATORIUM— A RUINED TEMPLE— THE PLAZA— SANTA MARIA — CONVENT QUARTERS — A CONCERT — MIDNIGHT— START FOR VOLCANO— A SHORT CUT— HEIGHTS OF VOLCANOES— A NAP IN THE CRATER — INSCRIPTIONS — VIEW FROM SUMMIT — MANO DEL MICO— FLOR DE MADERA— RARE PHEASANT— DRUNKEN INDIANS — AZTEC LAW — RETURN TO GUATEMALA . . . 113 CHAPTER XL POT-POURRI — VOLCANIC FIRE — A STRANGE THEORY— SUN'S RAYS — NACIMIENTO— FEAST OF GUADALUPE— ITS ORIGIN— JOCOTE- NANGO— SAN DOMINGO — ZOPILOTE — STARLING — TOUCANS — A MESON— EL CARABAN— WHO GOES THERE ?— WAR— PASSPORTS — START FOR COPAN AND ESQUIPULAS . . . .126 CHAPTER XII. A PILGRIMAGE — A BLACK SAINT — CERRO REDONDO — PASCUAL — ARPINO — A TORTILLA— THE ROAD-RUNNER — SWALLOW-TAILED FLY-CATCHER — CUAJINIQUILAPA — ESCLAVOS— AZAGUALPA— JU- TIAPA — ORGAN-CACTUS— AGUA BLANCA— SAN ANTONIO— VOLCANO OF SUCHITAN— SANTA CATARINA— EL RIO— AM ATILLO— SILVER MINES OP ALOTEPEQUE ..... 146 Contents. ix CHAPTER XIII. MOUNTAIN SCENERY — PILGRIMS* GRAVES— PIEDRAS GORDAS — MERINO SHEEP— A RESTAURANT — A DELIGHTFUL VALLEY — A MUD HUT— THE CROSS— A NIGHT WITH THE PILGRIMS— TIL- LANDSIA— FIRST VIEW OF ESQUIPULAS — A DOUANE— THE CALLE REAL— BRIDGE AND STONE FIGURES— A FAIR— CHURCH OF ESQUIPULAS— THE BLACK CHRIST— STRANGE OFFERINGS— LAST VIEW OF ESQUIPULAS ...... 161 CHAPTER XIV. PIEDRA DE AMOLAR — JUPILINGO — SAN JOSE— ORIOLES — OSTINOPS MONTEZUMA — TETERIA VIRIDIS— SWAN ORCHID— COPAN RIVER — DON PEDRO ARELLANOS— THE MYSTERY OF COPAN — THE IDOLS — HIEROGLYPHICS — CEIBAS — ANCIENT SEPULCHRE — EL CERRO DE LAS VENTANAS — CARVED ALTAR — HUMAN SACRIFICE — STONE HAMMOCK— GARRAPATAS—NIGUAS . . .. 172 CHAPTER XV. HACIENDA — TIERRA CALIENTE — PASCUAL IN DIFFICULTIES — AZTEC MYTHOLOGY— HAT-BRUSH PLANT— JOCOTAN— SAN JUAN ERMITA— PLAIN OF CHIQUIMULA— RUINED CHURCHES— CHIQUI- MULA — VISIT TO THE JEFE POLITICO — GIOTE— CHIMALAPA — SAN AGOSTIN— GUASTATOYA— MOTMOTS — A SPANISH DISH— LAGUNA — EL PUENTE — PONTE AGUELA — SAN JOSE — A SLIPPERY DESCENT— A CATARACT — ORIOLES AND THEIR NESTS— PLAIN OF GUATEMALA ....... 186 CHAPTER XVI. MILITARY SERVICE — STRENGTH OF ARMY — EQUIPMENT— FOREIGN OFFICERS— EL POLITECNICO— CONGRESS— A FEDERAL UNION — JUSTICE— FALSE WITNESSES— JUSTICE IN SALVADOR— RIGHTS OF FOREIGNERS— INHABITANTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA — A PROBABLE FUTURE— PETEN  — VUELTA GRANDE — THE RIVER MOTAGNA — HOT SPRINGS— LLANO GRANDE — A SUGAR PLANTA- TION—MOUNTAINS OF CHOACUS— AN INVALID CARRIAGE— SAN GERONIMO— SALAMA — FLOWERING "XUCCAS — MOUNTAINS OF QUILILA — SANTA ROSA — VALLEY OF PURULA — CABILDO . 214 CHAPTER XVIII. 4 GROTTO OF PURULA— STALAGMITES— SANTA CRUZ— VALLEY OF COBAN— CAJABON RIVER— CURASSOWS—PACAYA — THE QUESAL — NEST OF TROGON— SAN CRISTOVAL— CROSSES IN WOODS— A " MILPA" — INDIAN LABOUR— MOZOS— COBAN COFFEE— PASION RIVER— DEPARTURE OF MOZOS— AN ANCIENT CITY UNDIS- COVERED ........ 226 CHAPTER XIX. LIQUID AMBER TREES— SAN PEDRO CARCHAH— BARRICADES — A CENSER — ARRIVAL OF MOZOS— EUPHORBIA— A BEAUTIFUL RIVER— LA TINTA — MATCHES — ACCIDENT TO MULE— NIGHT SOUNDS— A DESCENT— STRELITZIA REGINA—ANTHURIUM— BROAD LEAFED PLANTS— ESPIRITU SANTO— THE CABILDO . . 244 CHAPTER XX. A VILLAGE SCHOOL— STRANGE NOCTURNAL VISITORS— A SWAMP- FOREST PLEASURES — CANDELARIA — A DESERTER — INDIAN VOICES — A NIGHT JAR— CHACHAS— INDIAN POSTrMAN- A RIVER CAVERN — LOST IN THE FOREST — SAN DOMINGO— PALM GROVES— SAN ANTONIO  LA PASION— DON CARLOS— WILD COCOA— TREES— DYE WOODS— BIRDS — A CANOE— START FOR EL PASO— IGUANAS— A USEFUL FIRE-ARM — JAGUAR — CURASSOW— HANGING NESTS — FISHING BY TORCHLIGHT— SCORPION AND COCKCHAFER— INDIAN ENCAMPMENT — LACANDONE  TAPIR— A FEARFUL SPEC- TACLE—PASO NUEVO— TOUCAN— A BEAUTIFUL PIGEON— THE SAVANNAS— ARRIVAL AT SACLUK— NARANJA COTTAGE— SACLUK — OCCUPATION— NIGHT— EL REY ZOPILOTE— EN ROUTE TO FLORES A SAVANNA  GLAZED POTTERY— DRESS — GEOGRAPHICAL KNOWLEDGE— CAVE OF JOBITZINAL— INTERIOR OF CAVE— A CURIOUS BIRD— SHELLS— CORTES' HORSE— PETEN BY MOONLIGHT— RUINS  PABLO— SHEDS FOR TRAVELLERS — SAN DIEGO— NEST OF PAVO — BIRD CRY — MAHO- GANY TREE— RONDELETTA— PALMETTO— GANAPATAS— THE PETEN TURKEY — JAGUAR STORIES — ENTER MEXICO — NO WATER — STORM IN FOREST— RIVER SAJAB— LAKE COPAR— HOLY GHOST ORCHID —ARRIVAL AT TENOSIQUE ..... 303 xii Contents, CHAPTER XXV. THE USTJMACINTA—TENOSIQUE— PRETENSIONS— SOCIETY— ADVAN- TAGE OF POVERTY OVER RICHES — SPITE — TO-MORROW — A TWIST- ING STREAM— ANECDOTE OP SPANISH INDOLENCE— DEPARTURE PROM TENOSIQTJE-PHILODENDRONS— CROSSING THE RIVER — RARE SWALLOWS— RIVER CHACAMAS — LOST IN THE PRAIRIE— A WET NIGHT— A LAKE SCENE — ARRIVAL AT MONTECRISTO . 313 CHAPTER XXVL TO-MORROW — MONTE CRISTO — START FOR PALENQTJE — HORSE-PLIES — SAN MIGUEL— DON DAVID — CUEVA DE DON JUAN— GHOST STORIES— SANTO DOMINGO DEL P ALE NQUE— START FOR RUINS — THICK FOREST — THE PALACE — ANCIENT NAME OP PALENQUE — GENERAL ASPECT — ANCIENT INHABITANTS — HIGH TOWER — RELICS— CROSSES— PYRAMIDS— EXTENT OF RUINS . . 326 CHAPTER XXVn. BANKS OF THE USUMACINTA — INGA PODS — LAGARTOS — RIO CHICO — LAS PLAYAS— ROUTE TO PALENQUE— SAN GERONIMO— GUACO — DYE WOODS — PALIZADO — MODERN CIVILIZATION — TOWN LIMITS— LOGWOOD— ON THE RIVER — LAS CRUCES— BOCA CHICA — LAGUNA DE TERMINOS . . - . . 337 CHAPTER XXVm. ISLAND OF CARMEN — ITS DISCOVERY — DEPARTMENT OP CARMEN — TOWN— LIGHTHOUSE— MALINCHE— TRAFFIC BY WATER— SHIP- PING— A TRAVELLING COMPANION — SOCIETY — WAITING FOR A BREEZE— A STAB IN THE DARK— LEAVE CARMEN— FRONTERA— A COLONY OP ALLIGATORS —  MAZATLAN—PEONUNCIADOS— BRIGANDS— JESUIT INFLUENCE — AC APULCO— HARBOUR SCENES— A LAZY TOWN — A MEXICAN FORT— COAST RANGE— VOLCANOES— PACIFIC GALES- SAN JOSE AND GUATEMALA — CUSTOM HOUSE — PAINFUL INTEREST — DEPARTURE. RIGHT cheery weather and light breezes accompanied us as we sped along in one _ . of the Pacific mail steamers bound south "^ '' from San Francisco. Most of the passengers were for Panama, but a few, chiefly Mexicans, disembarked at each of the little ports at which we touched. Pretty enough at a distance were the villages belonging to these ports. Mazatlan, San Bias, and Manzanilla; but on closer acquaintance the poverty-stricken aspect of the streets and houses, which is so characteristic of Spanish- American towns, gave a tinge of gloom to the other- wise bright scene. 2 Across Central America, Mazatlan has the reputation of enjoying a good climate during the winter months for those troubled with lung disease ; but much of the benefit derived therefroni must be counteracted by the depression caused by the unkempt streets and plaza, and last but not least, by the bad food which has rendered Mazatlan a by-word even in that country where good living is not a strong point. Perhaps when we were there, much of the dullness was to be ascribed to the near approach of the " pro- nunciados," as of course Mexico was in a state of rebellion — one of those chronic affairs which form the principal amusement in the Spanish American Re- publics— and the inhabitants of Mazatlan, in great fear, were shipping off all their money and valuables to safer quarters. Two men-of-war, which the Mexican Government in a fit of extraordinary gene- rosity had recently purchased from England, were daily expected, but it was a question whether they would not prove a curse instead of a blessing, as it was generally thought that the rebels would seize them at the first opportunity. How suggestive of Mexico is that one word — rebel ! Ever since she stepped forth into the family of independent nations, revolutions, rebellions, and assas- sinations have swept over the land, destroying her wealth, paralyzing her industry, and reducing her population. Throughout the country the laziest and most un- principled join leaders who, in the name of politics. BandittL 8 unite to plunder their neighbours, " pronounce" against the government, and under the name of war or " pro- nunciamentos" become a terror to the country as great as that inspired by the brigands. Of the latter, strange stories were rife, and when we arrived at Acapulco, so uninviting were the reports that the male members of a Spanish family, who had intended to proceed from that port overland to the city of Mexico to look after their property, were so I discouraged that they preferred to continue their journey by Panama. On the road to the capital these bandits had actually posted placards to the effect that no one was to travel with less than twenty dollars under pain of death, and there is no doubt that the threat was not an idle one. It is only fair to the Government to say that it was taking strong measures to put down the banditti. A band of fifty under the leadership of a notorious villain, named Ruiz, had lately been almost totally destroyed, and the celebrated Rosalio Mendez had been taken and shot. The chief delight of this ruffian had been to flay the soles of the feet of his prisoners, and then drive them before him over the * flinty road. The death of this merciless bandit caused more re- joicing in Mexico than that of all the other brigands put toge ther. At San Juanico a strong force of brigands had per- petrated some dreadful crimes, amid enthusiastic cries of " Long live the Sisters of Charity." A Paulist B 2 4 Across Central America, priest who was supposed to be implicated in the affair was arrested, but on account of want of evidence was allowed to leave the country. It had been generally supposed that friars, monks, and Jesuits were things of the past ; but after the expulsion of the Sisters of Charity and the uprising of the Church party, many of them who were hidden away came boldly to the front. These men work strenuously to arouse the lower classes against the Liberal Administration, and by spreading pernicious doctrines among their blind adherents sow the seeds of constant strife and civil war. The enmity between the religious and political elements is manifested by the bitter and relentless attacks upon the Government by the Church papers, whilst those of the administration in their turn de- nounce by name the priests and bishops who are endeavouring to overthrow the established order of things by sword and flame. The Church party in- variably place themselves in opposition to whatever government is in power, in order thereby to create a revolution, and thus endeavour to prove that liberal institutions are a failure and that a strong centralized power, backed by the mitre and the musket, can alone prevent Civil wars. That the views of the Government were correct was demonstrated by the terrible massacre in the church of Acapulco, at the instigation of a Jesuit bishop, only a few weeks before our arrival. The harbour of Acapulco is very picturesque ; en- Aca/pulco, 5 tirely land-locked, and shut out from the sea by green slopes and wooded islands. The small town, with its white houses and thatched roofs, is effectively finished off at one end by groups of palm trees, and at the other by an old fort. At some distance behind, a low range of hills closes in the view. The rain which occa- sionally falls in its purple gorges looks like a coloured mist when the sun shines on it, and as the shades melt and blend into one another the varied back- ground lights up the scene with marvellous effect. Canoes glide over the water, freighted with eggs, shells, limes, pine-apples, hammocks, and curious little pieces of pottery of quaint forms. Birds and squirrels and various other objects of beautiful form and colour, so often met with in tropical ports to entice the voyager, were not wanting, and one wtetched parrot that had been taught to say " good morning'* in English, in a moment of excitement at having its tail pulled by av small monkey, fluttered off its perch, fell into the water, and before its owner could rescue it, was seized by a shark, between whose formidable jaws it disappeared, screaming its familiar salutation as an ap- propriate farewell. On landing, the charm of the scene vanished. The town was found to consist only of a few rag-littered lanes bordered with low houses, whose cracked white walls ^reflected the hot glare of the sun, and under whose piazzas were strown the most untempting articles for sale. Through the open doorways, the monotonous swing of hammocks showed us that most 6 Across Central America, of the population were occupied in their usual business, and the only signs of life were the hideous turkey- buzzards, Central American policemen, as they are called, and even they seemed impregnated with the atmosphere of laziness, and with a slight jerk of the head would merely hop on one side at our ap- proach. After crossing a gully through which a supply of water was conveyed to the town, but which at the time was almost dry, and amongst whose slimy stones pigs and buzzards were disputing for old boots and other delicacies of a like sort, we paid a visit to the fort. A grove of fine old trees led up to it, and after a short colloquy with the officer commanding the guard, who was at first evidently afraid that we had come to take possession of the place — there were four of us — or at least to discover its strength and spy out its weakness, we were permitted to enter. The same air of repose pervaded the inside of the fort as we had observed on the outside. Sleeping forms were lying in the small casemated rooms. A cow, which had inadvertently strayed in through the neglected gateway, was endeavouring to obtain a little nourishment from the herb-grown wall, and a sentry half asleep, with a cigarette in his mouth, was stretched at full length on the dilapidated stone steps leading to the ramparts. Lazily rising when he saw us, this watchful soldier went to fetch his musket, which was leaning against the wall at some distance ofl^, and ofl^ered to accompany . Series of Volcanoes, 7 us ; but we declined his obliging offer, and he grate- fully resumed his recumbent position. Negligence and decay still prevailed everywhere, guns which should have occupied places on the ram- parts had fallen into the surrounding ditch, and lay half buried in weeds and undergrowth. In many places the stone masonry had given way, and what might have been a position of some advantage and considerable strength, was now simply a ridiculous spectacle of Mexican inefficiency. When we left the fort the sentry was sound asleep on the steps, and as the one sergeant who had greeted us on our arrival was nowhere to be seen, we presumed that he also had fallen a victim to the general drow- siness. The coast range after leaving Acapulco presented a softer outline and looked green and fertile to us, ac- customed as we had been of late to the rugged bare mountain chain which, though doubtless full of mineral wealth, bore a wild and dreary aspect. On the follow- ing day we sighted the first of that wonderful series of volcanoes whose system is developed in its grandest form in Guatemala, and on the morning of the twelfth day out from San Francisco, we rode at anchor a long way from shore in the little surf port of San Jose. Three great volcanoes, Agua, Fuego, and Pacaya, raise their huge forms seventy miles or so inland bar- ring the way to the city of Guatemala, which lies on the other side. 8 Across Central America. " Mountains that like giants stand. To sentinel enchanted land." Between us and them was a flat stretch of country- covered with a dense tropical growth of trees and shrubs. This part of the Pacific coast is visited by strong gales at certain seasons ; between September 20th and October the " cordonazo," — equinoctial — blows ; in the rainy season from June to September the " chu- basco" sometimes rages with fury, and at odd intervals is felt the " chiflon jugadu/' which is merely a puff, but frequently strong enough to capsize a badly balanced vessel. We found it no easy matter to land on the jetty as a heavy swell was running, and it required some cau- tion to approach and clamber up the narrow rope ladder, which at one moment was swinging above the water, and the next was immersed in it to its highest step. However, the feat was accomplished, and we were soon undergoing as severe an inspection of our baggage at the custom-house as if we were in some frontier station in Germany. A more uninviting-looking spot than San Jose can- not well be imagined ; a few tumble-down houses, in which live the limited number of officials who are obliged to pass their time here, face the sea ; behind them is a swamp redolent of malaria, and abounding in mosquitoes, while a little farther on are the misera- ble huts of the native village. Intensely hot and very unhealthy, the place possesses no interest except the San Jose, 9 painful one of being the spot where a drunken com- mandante had the audacity to imprison and flog a British Consul a few years ago. Fortunately we had not to stop long at it, as my only companion, who was on his way to the city of Guatemala on business, had previously given notice of his expected arrival, and a comfortable waggon drawn by four mules was ready to proceed with us on our journey. We were soon splashing through the swamp, and after passing the green plaza, where partial atonement for the afore-mentioned insult had been made by military salutation of the English flag, we quickly lost sight of the melancholy village in a cloud of dust. ^t CHAPTER II. EN ROUTE TO THE CAPITAL — SCENERY— GAZZA LADRA— BREAKFAST — OX-TEAMS — NATIVE PLOUGH— ESCUINTLA— CHANGE OF SCENE —A MACHETE— FALLS OF SAN PEDRO MARTIR— AMATITLAN— NOPAL PLANTATIONS— COCHINEAL — REFRESHMENT— LAKE OF AMATITLAN— HOT SPRINGS— ASCENT— PLAIN OF GUATEMALA— — COURTESY — ARRIVAL IN CITY. T San Jose we had heard that an opera company, which the Government had engaged at an expense of about forty thousand dollars, was daily expected. How we wished that the money had been expended in improving the road on which we were travelling ! At one moment our waggon was up to the axle-tree in deep ruts, at the next jolting over great rocks and stumps of trees. Still, in spite of heat, dust, and dis- location, there was a great charm in the novelty of the scene, at least to me, but my companion had traversed the road before and consequently was not so alive to its attraction. The country around San Jose was mere jungle, but bright creepers ran over the tangled undergrowth; Staple Dishes, 11 here and there a gnarled ceiba stretched out its shady branches, laden with mosses and giant arums, and occasionally some gay- coloured bird darted rapidly from side to side. Clouds of butterflies hovered over the half dried-up bed of the stream that filtered slowly across the dusty road, and as they settled on its moist banks resembled clusters of flowers; all the butterflies in the country appeared to be visiting these watering places. A certain species of bird* appeared very glad to see us. One in particular was very sociable, flying after us from tree to tree, and looking very knowing with its pretty raised top-knot. In appearance, this bird is a sort of tropical magpie with light blue back and long tail-feathers of white and blue, a white breast and throat with black necklace. It is one of the com- monest birds in the country, and the people say that it is more addicted to stealing than they are themselves, a charge rather hard on the magpie, which in fact is a veritable "gazza ladra." Here and there an open thatched hut peeped out from a group of bananas and orange trees ; picturesque enough by itself, but marred by the untidiness and unwashed appearance of its occupants. We stayed at one of these domiciles for luncheon, and were regaled with the staple dishes of the country — tortillas and frijoles ; the latter, merely cooked beans, were palatable, but the former, the maize-flour fritters, were, I thought, the most detestable things I had ever tasted. * Calocetta formosa. 12 Across Central America. To show how use will accustom us to anythnig almost, I must mention that before I left Central America I quite enjoyed tortillas ; certainly there was often nothing else to eat, but I was surprised to find 1 really liked them. Soon after leaving our resting place we met a num- ber of ox teamsc the express waggons of the country, wending their ^ow way to the coast ; each small covered cart drawn bv two oxen, whose tioses almost touched the ground, so heavily were they yoked. Something under a week is the usual time taken by these vehicles to accomplish the journey from the port to the city, a distance of barely thirty leagues, i,e,y ninety miles. In Central America, distances are always mentioned in leagues, one of which averages about three miles, but it is no easy matter to find out from a native the exact distance to any place ; they have their short and their long league, which may vary from two to six or seven miles. They often measure by time only, and from that infer the space travelled over, so that dis- tances greatly depend upon the qualities of the animal ridden or driven. As we approached Escuintla, the half-way village where we were to pass the night, signs of civilization increased ; there were patches of sugar-cane, little gardens with a few vegetables, and an occasional shed by the road-side with fruit and balls of lime for sale. In one small clearing there was a man actually at work ploughing, and this is how he ploughed and the im- Escuintla, 1 3 plement he used. The curved branch of a tree, shod at the extreme point of the lower limb with a piece of iron and with a beam attached to the upright limb, formed the plough. To this beam two oxen were yoked, which the man directed with one hand by means of thongs attached to their horns, whilst with the other hand he guided the plough. And thus he scotched away at the ground, happy in the idea of owntfe^an implement superior to the hoe and machete of his neighbour ; but never dreaming of economizing his resources by attend- ing to the depth rather than to the extent of his furrows. There is an old saying that "no farmer owns any deeper than he can plough." What a little property my friend must possess ! It was growing dark when we entered Escuintla, but there was sufficient light to show off the straggling street, with its rows of unpromising-looking houses and still more forbidding inn, through the gateway of which we drove into a small courtyard which did duty for stables. As the dining-room opened on to this court, or rather farm-yard, we did not linger long over the meal of strange meat and beans that was tardily prepared for us, but went out to inspect the village by moonlight. The appearance of the old church, almost roofless, with its rent walls, told us that we were in the land of earthquakes, and the apparent proximity of the vol- canoes suggested a greater catastrophe even than that which had already occurred. 14 Across Central America. The village presented no features of interest, with the exception of a picturesque stream, and we returned to the hotel only to pass a very hot and uncomfortable n'ght. At 3 a.m. we were ready to start again, but as no driver appeared a search was instituted, and he was at last discovered fast asleep in the wagonette, where he had spent the night so as to have a close supervision over our luggage. From Escuintla the road commences to climb suc- cessive plateaux, and we found the air cold enough to render it necessary for us to make use of our rugs and overcoats ; but when the sun rose we appreciated the delightful freshness of the atmostphere after the sultriness of the coast region. With the cooler temperature had come a change in the vegetation ; the character of the country was different, and the only part of the landscape that maintained its original features was the road. The inhabitants too seemed to be infused with fresh life, and whether hastening to Escuintla with their market produce, or making their way to their maize fields and sugar-cane, all had a business aspect. Everyone carried his machete — a long knife without which to a native life would be insupportable, and which he uses on every possible occasion from cutting through a forest to eating frijoles. As we ascended, the road grew more picturesque. On our left was a wall of rock covered with ferns, which grew luxuriantly in the moisture caused by the water that trickled down in every direction. Little Beautiful Cataract. 15 ravines which cut through the hill sides here and there were full of wild plantains and arums. On our right, down below, was the river Michatoya, watering a fertile plain, and beyond were the mountains, rugged and bare in some places, wooded and gracefully sloping in others. Near the hamlet of San Pedro Martir we passed a very beautiful cataract, about ninety feet in height, which rustled over the arching rocks in masses of foam, that lit up the broad under-leaf of the silvery plantains as if with flashes of fire, then after battling with the granite boulders that vainly strove to intercept its progress, and flowing with swift stillness through narrowing walls, emerged into more open space, and tranquilly flowed on as a peaceful river totally oblivious of its recent fury. Less and less tropical grew the scenery, and no one who had been set down here unexpectedly would have imagined he was in Central America. The soft stretches of meadow through which flowed the river, its banks lined with osiers and willows, the fields of maize which might have been wheat, the mountain peaks and the undulating hills, clad with pines, were all reminiscences of home, as charming as they were unexpected. Certainly a close inspection of the scene revealed cane plantations and tropical shrubs, but they did not intrude themselves sufliciently to destroy the home illusion. After some hours travelling we reached a lofty emi- nence, and looked down upon the village of Amatitlan. 16 Across Central America. This village appeared to me to present a very novel aspect. The long narrow streets, consisting of low red tiled cottages arranged symmetrically, and running at right angles to each other, lay in a deep valley sur- rounded by abrupt mountains. A curious appearance w^as caused by numerous high mud — adobe — walls care- fully thatched, and enclosing a considerable extent of ground, which constituted the nursery gardens of cochineal. Fields of nopal — the variety of cactus on which the insect feeds — extended in every direction, each surrounded by a mud fence. The afore-mentioned nursery gardens are used during the wet season ; the thatched roofing over the wall forms a shed which is open on the sunny side, and in it the insects are preserved on nopal leaves and breed there. The young are placed in little leaf-boxes, or bags, which are attached to the leaves of the cactus, and thus the plant is seeded. Rain is fatal to the young insect ; and although it is said that, if it escapes injury during the first ten days after being attached to the plant, it has a fair chance of reaching perfection, yet many an owner of a nopal plantation has gone to his field after a heavy shower, only to be met at the gate by a red stream indicating the loss of his crop. In Amatitlan the female is left on the leaf long enough to produce a second crop annually ; the second, which is much heavier than the first, is all clear profit, the first paying all expenses. The insects when gathered are spread out on flat Manufacture of Indigo. 17 trays, covered with thin cloth and put into stoves. When dried they are sifted, packed in bales and are ready for the market. The value of a nopal plant- ation is between three hundred and four hundred dollars per acre; the average yield of an acre being about one thousand eight hundred lbs. of insects in the two crops. Formerly this industry was a very extensive one in the district, but now it is com- paratively insignificant owing to the introduction of patent dyes &c. In other parts of Guatemala the manufacture of indigo is fast dymg out for the same reason. Mr. Judson and others, I expect, would meet with a very cool reception in this country if they ventured to pay it a visit. A cup of cojffee and some oranges had formed our breakfast before we left Escuintla at three am., and so we were glad to pull up at a little cottage just ofF the main street of Amatitlan, where we had been assured of refreshment. Our mules, too, evidently thought that it was time for them to feed, and had stubbornly stopped and looked into every doorway that we passed. Their wants were soon provided for, for in the more civilized parts of Guatemala the sight of a mule is sufficient to bring several offers of " sacate " i.e. provender. The courtyard into which we stepped was full of most delicious roses, and a small parroquet bade us welcome in the prettiest manner possible. The hostess, who was equaly polite, showed us into a pleasant room, c 18 Across Central America, and we were soon discussing the repast she placed before us, which included some very excellent fish from the lake. This lake is a fine expanse of water, about three leagues in length by one in breadth. On the far side from the village it is overhung by a precipitous mountain, which forms with the sloping hills on the near side a striking and romantic view. Hot springs, said to be very salutary in cutaneous disorders, issue close to the lake. In the valley boiling water is found only eight or nine feet below the surface of the ground, and, indeed, it is feared that the whole may ere long become a lake. The volcanic mountain which almost cuts the lake in two, and the appearance of the sur- rounding country, with its hot and cold springs, all point to some unusual phenomenon, which at some unknown period has changed the entire scene. The lake is situated nearly four thousand feet above the level of the sea. As we ascended the steep road leading out of the valley, the view on looking back was superb ; the wild garden of the great mountain, pierced with shadowy ravines and with bare crags falling sheer down to the water's edge, was in strange contrast to the rounded aspect of the hills and the cultivated gardens of the rest of the valley. For about three leagues we wound our way slowly up the mountain, now passing through a narrow defile or crossing the bed of a fast drying up stream, and anon urging our animals to put forth a little additional Outskirts of Guatemala. 19 effort when a few yards of tolerably level land lay before us. At last the volcanoes were no longer in our front ; we had passed them and soon reached the plateau on the other side of which lay the city of Guatemala, three leagues away. This table-land, five thousand feet above sea level, is a vast green plain dotted with trees and plots of maize with an occasional small coffee plantation. Pretty white villages nestle in the surrounding hills and cattle wander over the pastures. Indian huts dot the road, and a few more pretentious farm-houses peep- ing out from their orange groves give a pleasant air of civilization and repose. The kind-hearted Guatemaltecans have a custom of driving out to the plain to meet expected friends, and as my companion's arrival had been anticipated we soon exchanged our mule team for a barouche and pair that quickly carried us to the city. Entering under the shadow of an old fort we rattled over the cobble stones of a long narrow street, turned sharply out of a paved courtyard, and found ourselves in the hospitable precincts of the Gran Hotel. C 2 CHAPTER III. A MARKET SCENE — FRUITS AND VEGETABLES— A GENEROUS VENDOR — DRESS — A SUPERSTITION — NOON — BEGGARS — THE PLAZA— A USEFUL CLOCK — CATHEDRAL — FOUNTAIN — UNDER THE COLONNADES—MOSAIC— BATHING— AN ILLUSTRIOUS EXAM- PLE—CLIMATE— ASPECT OF CITY — INDIAN PORTERS— BUSINESS- HOUSES — DINNER-HOUR — VIEW FROM THE CARMEN HILL. ^S|AID Socrates to himself in the market ^'^ '^ place, ''How many things are here which I do not want !'' With this idea I started out early next morning to visit that ever interesting and amusing part of a foreign town. The hotel was in the main street, a little farther on was the Plaza with a fine cathedral, behind which was the market. I soon dis- covered that 1 need not have risen so soon, as early marketing in Guatemala is unnecessary, business being lukewarm before ten o^clock. The building itself is spacious and admirably con- structed. Six large entrances lead into two quadrangles, the centre of the larger being occupied entirely by the fruit and vegetable vendors, whilst round the walls run Varieties of Fruit 21 a series of shops or stalls filled with native and foreign productions, such as baskets, cord, bird-cages, woollen and cotton goods, fancy articles, straw hats, mats, iron ware, saddlery, rebosos of silk and cotton, shoes, cigarettes, &c. Fruit and vegetables abound in the greatest pro- fusion ; pine-apples lie in heaps under the long tables, on which are baskets of melting custard apples ; anona, golden grenadillas, the crisp rind of one of them just open sufficiently to show its snow white lining and its jelly-like contents ; rich brown sapotes shaped like ostrich eggs, and in whose red flesh is concealed a large stone with a bitter almond kernel ; mangoes, plantains, bananas, lemons, limes, oranges, nine for a cuartillo — three cents — cocoa-nuts, jocotas, yams, beans, tomatoes, chilis, avocates, and aguacates or alligator pears. In shape and size this fruit resembles the sapote, but the pulp, which looks like fresh butter, is of a very delicate flavour. It is usually eaten more as a vegetable than a fruit, pepper and salt improving it greatly. We used always to invest in some of these in our marketing expeditions, and once were much amused at the apparent generosity of an old lady whose stall we were patronising for the first time, and who, would persist in selling the fruit at a lower rate than we knew was the proper one. Of course she did it with an eye to future dealings, but it reminded us of the Irishman who bought apples at eighteen pence a dozen and sold them at a penny a piece, and who on being asked how he could make anything in that 22 Across Central America, -w^Lv, replied " Only by doing a very large bu- siness." The throng moving about is composed of Indians, Ladinos, and a few foreigners. Ladinos predominate both as sellers and as buyers, for they form the chief part of the population. The word " ladino" is under- stood to apply to descendants of whites and Indians ; but few have Spanish blood, the majority being either aboriginal Indians or mixed with the various conquer- ing races which have come from the north. The dress of the men consists of pantaloons of cotton cloth, and a jacket of thick woollen cloth of native manufacture. The Indians generally envelop them- selves in their striped scrapes. The dress of the Indian women which somewhat resembles that of the Japanese, consists of a blue cotton skirt wrapped round and kept up by a broad coloured girdle, to which is added an embroidered chemise with loose sleeves. Sometimes they wear linen kerchiefs round their head after the manner of Italian peasants. The material of Indian clothes is all made by themselves, and the cloth manu- factured by the Indians of Los Altos is extremely good and very like our Scotch tweed. The cut and colour of the dress of an Indian is said to tell to an experienced eye the village or district from whence the wearer comes ; for myself I could never distinguish much difference between any of them. In some places all the women wear red cord plaited in their hair, and about the colour and quality of this cord they are particular even to superstition. Thus A Tempting Dish. 23 in Central America red has its devotees the same as in China, where a red bracelet is regarded as a safeguard against evil spirits ; or in Scotland, where the High- land women tie red cotton round the cows' tails before turning them out to grass in the Spring, and red silk round their own fingers to keep off the witches. To return to the market ; as noon approaches a crowd of hungry customers gather round great jars out of which the proprietor deals little calabashes full of a whitish soup, which from the demand must possess pleasanter properties than its appearance would suggest. Such laughter and pushing as each one tries to hand in his porringer before his neighbour ! An exquisite joke is when the arm of a too eager but successful aspirant has received a judicious — but of course unintentional — shove, and the contents of his calabash are deposited on the black head of some little urchin who has been vainly striving for some time against superior weight. But not a smile is once seen to light up the tall sad- eyed figure of one of many, who wrapped in his poncho looks mournfully at the merry groups. Probably he is thinking that his last cuartillo is spent, and to-morrow he will have to do a day's work ; at all events he is the ideal of the Spanish song : *' Soy un cuadro de tristeza Arrimado a la pared !"* Outside the market in the sunny street are chattering * " I am a picture of sadness Leaning against the wall !" 24 Across Central America, muleteers, carelessly dressed soldiers, pedlars with their goods spread out on the pavement, Indians and beggars ; the latter chanting in a monotonous voice a regular litany, which they change to profuse thanks or a torrent of abuse according as their supplications are attended to or disregarded. 