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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, By CHARLES REEMELIN, In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of Ohio. Pa ae ee ae CONTENTS. PAGE Tntroduction, ...... apehnte ta me mare Se er ae SAE Renee Names of the various parts of which the Vine is composed,...... 9 Location and Soil, .cciscis secs wees s sigherk she dereiaia On he wae bess 14 Preparation of the Ground, .. sisssecscseasciscece es sciee esa 19 How to mark out a Vineyard, and get it ready for the Vines,.... 25 The Propagation and Multiplication of Vines, and how to Plant Acai 2) ab pa od cradle! Gigs woe ONS SaaS ead What species of Grapevine shall we cultivate? ..... Seer ee 37 Treatment of a young Vineyard the first three years, .......... 41 Ear Btakeh ios 2 sii «cw oes beds wialetews «50 aes Bidivisieie alae oe 48 Trimming young bearing Vines in the fourth year, ............ 55 Es HERG GE BOWS 6 gic sod aia. vdarelae Rald's chins wseareesaestns 61 On Trimming generally,......... et oie oip nip ara wicls owas oa eialetaietere 64 How to cultivate the soil of a Vineyard, ........-.se00. seleare OE (EAMES ORY VECIIBER io. < pos oes hedtin ee wk Ree soe eae eee eis a arse 73 Ree reee Pr ee ds Van eee nies kam iD scion Be Savanna 77 Ree CEUN Ge TNE MAAN CE bial s s.ucls seme wies nd de weeew ans bndimnees. es 82 MMGECE es sc cha ka.cles dines etind beede dale tA asec ees «edna 86 Diseases to which Grapevines are subject, .......escececcecees 88 NMP MNBAMEIENS ees SS ata a a disci k Re aS wid Oh Awe Whee Sica el Ow wre 89 Mashing the Grapes, ..... graneal siaiwie e's acetone aie wiaerel tonal cielo 89 |. A ne a ere Pe ee Treatment of the Wine, eeoseseeeoeseeeaeseseeeneseeoeeeeoeee 98 ba - - ; 7 : ° = ag : Ging e ae . 4 weridey stored: =. 1 4 4 wi Hats “na ana ‘ie CHa: oe Thai eget ag “oe ae os ; A + a ee a is . ne ve Rie hengantt, oe , = ; ah ae un 7 ¢ ih Wen i) ba te ie re . Th ae tonianigbanved ve ot a. era ly e's oy WANE GEV CN were. omg fA 2a 4, , Pa oT 7 tay wartpoiy pie) ee nabane ing ee | bak rk ar 2» boat | Shy ae ists a7 a oy wa. on Hid ee iv. ham t patty tal ah 53 aeiat Roe wis Deve wh puri i: rT J +e. a save ' \ G ; . j 4 ieee rey i. 2 nse eng Siyaunt aa |” ‘ . ee ere ne | Vetus bs 4enkeun sneha nin eee i Hie pe \ ie a Se eica VaAkii nck pended eee ny Hg yas dhs od ems a ¢? a - Y 4a pes S hn w ¢ *-t ale bade s © HU 8 Meee Oe ee oe ie eee P , é m *% a7 - RS =—— - - « @ i PY. + die eer d + O00 oo 44m st own 0 6m to « RRR OR ae eH? y j ‘ a4 aa koi ‘ais teed ae W a + 4 Sa, INTRODUCTION. THE object of these pages is to furnish to such as have no opportunity to learn the Vintners’ business practically, easily comprehended and reliable instruc- tions, so that even the most inexperienced may, with this book in his hand, start, plant, perfect and culti- vate a vineyard, and make good, wholesome wine. The writer is himself a practical vintner, owns vine- yards, has worked and does work in them. He gives to the reader the knowledge derived from reading, and also through a somewhat extended intercourse with vintners from various countries, as well as his own actual observation in various parts of the United States and Hurope. | His object is not to make money. He has long felt that the United States need, as an important element of its horticultural economy, the domestication of the grape, and that, in the progress of time, the use of wine as food must necessarily be a part of the social enjoyments of our people. He is often asked in private conversation, especially while travelling, various questions about vineyards. (7) 8 INTRODUCTION. Thus to answer is very tedious. He concluded, there- fore, to write this little book, which, being sold cheap, might be in the hands of nearly everybody, and thus, at little cost, give to all who wish it tbe desired in- formation. The writer trusts that it will be received as an humble contribution to a subject, which cer- tainly is receiving, as it deserves, very general attention. THE AUTHOR. Che Vine-Dresser’s Atanual. NAMES OF THE VARIOUS PARTS OF WHICH THE VINE IS COMPOSED. I pEEM a knowledge of these various parts, and their names, of much consequence to a correct under- standing of the whole subject, and hence will at once describe and name them. England has no vineyards, and therefore the techni- cal names I shall give are, in general, mere trans- lations of similar words, which in German have an accepted meaning with reference to Grapevines. I give, also, the German in every case, as this may facili- tate the intercourse between Americans who plant vineyards and the German vineyard men. | The cut, Fig. 1, represents the various parts of a full- grown grape vine, which are severally numbered. The reader should familiarize himself with them by frequent reference. (9) 10 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. The Grapevine (Weinstock) is properly divided into two classes: I. That below the surface of the ground. II. That above the ground. In the ground are: The “ Stem,” (Stamm,) marked No. 1, is either the result of the planted cutting or of a grapevine root. No. 2 is the “ Foot,” (Fuss,) or lowest part of the stem, out of which grow, in an obliquely downward direction, those important roots called ‘ foot-roots,” which, if they spread and grow well, are the chief basis of the whole vine, and without which it can- not be truly healthy. These foot-roots are also marked 2. From the other buds upon the “Stem,” arise the “« Side roots,” (Seitenwurzeln;) they grow above the foot, and draw their nourishment like the “ot roots,” (Fusswurzeln,) through roots almost as fine as hair, which spring from the main roots. They are marked 8. The “Surface Roots,” (Tag Wurzeln,) which grow out of the head of the stem, nearly parallel with the surface, and also out of those buds which are about six inches below the surface of the ground. They are marked 4. Above the ground are: Marked 5, the “‘ Head,” (Kopf,) or the upper part of the “Stem,” out of which grow the first and second NAMES OF THE VARIOUS PARTS. 11 year those first young twigs, from which are ultimately formed the vines. Marked No. 6 are the “ Thighs,” (Schenkel,) of the ‘“ Vine Stock,” or if the reader likes it better, simply, the, Vine. | Marked No. 7 is the “ Bearing Wood,” (Tragbare Holz,) which grows upon and out of the “thighs,” “bows” and spurs, and which is to form the bows and spurs for the next season. Marked No. 8 are those branches which even after the “ thighs” are once formed, are continually growing out of the “head,” and often even protrude from the main stem below the surface, called the “Ground Shoots,” (Boden Holz.) Marked No. 9 are those branches which grow from the joints or buds in the “thighs,” and which are trimmed down to two or three buds in the fall or spring following their growth, and are called “ Spurs,” (Zapfen.) Marked No. 10 are those branches immediately above the “thighs,” which are early in spring trimmed down to six or eight, or even ten buds, and from which the main product of grapes is expected. During that year they are called ‘ Bow-branches,” (Bogenschoss,) or simply “ Bows,” (Bogen,) as they are bent artificially into bows, and so tied to the stake or post in the spring. 12 TIE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. Marked No. 11 are the “ Buds,” or “ Hyes” at the joints, which if round and perfect, and hence promising a good harvest, are called “ Fruct Duds,” (Frucht Augen,) and if pointed and meagre—‘* Wood Buds,” (Holz Augen.) Out of the “buds” grow “ Shoots,” (Ruthen,) which, when green, are tied up to the stake, and when matured are called “* Wood.” From the ‘ Wood” grow the ‘ Leaves,” which afford the requisite shade, and perform an all-important part in the nourishment of the vine and in the growth and ripening of the fruit. Very near the buds spring forth those smaller branches, which [I will call “twigs,” which in literal translation of the German I might call “‘cross-teeth,” (Aber Zahn.) Immediately opposite to the ‘ Leaves,” grow out of and where there are no the same buds the “ Grapes” grapes there will be found those little fibrous twigs called “ Zendrils,” which are a convenient appendage to the grapevine; with them they twine themselves to objects near them, maintaining thereby their fruit and branches above ground, even in a wild state—an indication which practical vine-dressers have not failed to follow. Very often, too, after the grape has par- tially grown, the fruit gradually disappears, or “ runs ) out,” into these little “cord-twigs,” or tendrils, and through this operation very often a crop very promis- al 71) NAMES OF THE VARIOUS PARTS. 13 ing in the earlier portions of spring is much dimin- ished. Practical vine-dressers therefore smile at en- thusiasts, who count their grapes before this danger is past. These cord-twigs which thus spring from buds, which should bear grapes, are in German called Gabelein, “forks.” I name them ‘ Zendrils.” The fruit stalk comprising the centre axis with its branches, or the part of the cluster which remains after removing the berries, is called the “ Comb.” Grapes which are “close berried” are best. The berries contain, when ripe, saccharine matter, (never yet brought to crystallization,) water, much coloring matter, and also substances more or less pe- culiar to taste and smell, according to the kind of grape and the season. The saccharine matter is the great basis of the fer- mentation, and therefore of the quality of the wine. The taste peculiar to each kind of grape arises from the inside coating of the skin of the berry, a matter easily tried by chewing and sucking this skin after the pulp is squeezed out. The peculiar smell also springs from substances immediately connected therewith, and the reason why wine which passes through its first fermentation before the juice is pressed from the crushed grape, possesses the taste and smell peculiar to each grape in a greater degree, must be sought in the fact, that through this process the saccharine slime 14 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. is better dissolved, and because then the fermentation absorbs and acts more fully upon those peculiar sub- stances which adhere to the skin. The “ coloring matter” lies in the inside of the skin, and is easily developed, but much modified through the subsequent fermentation in the cellar, and wine treated as it is commonly in the United States, may eventually be colorless, as the coloring matter has no lasting effect, unless the fermentation takes place before pressing out the juice. Within the berry are the “ Pulp,” and the “ Kernel.” I have thus named all I deem essential, and the reader and myself will, I trust, hereafter better under- stand each other. LOCATION AND SOIL. THE best location, if it is desired to produce good wine, is the southern exposure of a hill or hillock. There the vines get the proper sunshine, and are also properly protected against storms, especially the north and north-east winds. <A location giving an exposure midway between east and south is also favorable, because such an exposure gets the sunshine from morn- ing till pretty late in the evening. LOCATION AND SOIL. 15 A due eastern exposure is less favorable, since it loses the sun too early ; it is ever exposed to eastern winds, and is sensitive to frosts, even of the lighter sorts, because it receives the rays of the sun so very early and direct, as to subject such locations to injury from freezing nearly every year. Still worse is a western exposure, because it receives the sun till very late, and hence suffers from the chilly evening dews, which in this country are, com- paratively speaking, far colder than in Europe. Such an exposure must necessarily suffer from west winds, and is also more liable to be injured by hail. Hills and hillocks are far better for wine-culture than plains, which latter may produce greater quanti- ties of wine, but it is invariably of a poorer quality. Plains or hills whose soil, either on the surface or as a substratum, has yellow or blue clay soil, are not favor- able for vineyards, because upon such soils neither the atmosphere, nor the sun, rain or dew, can operate as they should, and hence there is danger that the vine will be affected with the wet-rot. The sun’s rays hardly ever strike vines upon plains in the proper direction, so as to afford the required warmth, and the wood and the grapes are apt not to get the proper ripening ; such localities are also far more subject to winter and spring frosts, and to mildew. And, in addition, they must necessarily suffer more from destructive insects, snails, 1* 16 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. and animals of every description, as it is well known that such prevail more largely upon plains. There exists, however, a great difference between the foot, the middle, and the crest of hill-sides. The middle gives the best wine; the foot is more or less subject to frost, and does not receive adequately the sun’s rays; while the crest is too much exposed to cold winds, in addition to its soil being very seldom good enough. Nor must neighboring objects be lost sight of in lo- cating vineyards. Favorable is everything which tends to temper and somewhat increase warmth, and which protects against frosts, raw winds, and other casualties; such as woods, buildings, high walls, and adjoining hills, provided they are in the rear or north of vineyards, and such localities will always produce the earliest ripe fruit and the best quality of wine. Injurious objects, when too near neighbors, such as lakes, ponds, swamps, and cold wet woods, are to be avoided, as from all these cold mists are apt to gener-. ate. Hills, houses, trees, &e., should not be so near as to throw a shade over the vineyard. Vineyards should never be planted along deep valleys, hollows or gorges, which run east and west, since such almost invariably produce, in winter especially, constant drafts of wind, and they are more or less injurious. Grass and clover patches should not be too near, as LOCATION AND SOIL. 17 they draw frosts, and smithies or other large labora- tories or manufactories, are also to be avoided on ac- count of the smoke. Much depends, also, upon the quality of the soil, which changes often within a very small space of ground. A grapevine will grow, to be sure, where other plants grow, but the quality of the wine is always modified by the kind of soil. A heavy soil—one composed of sticky clay—will not permit sun and rain to penetrate, and may there- fore be termed a cold soil. In such, grapevines soon become weak and sickly; in wet seasons their foliage is apt to have a yellowish tint; the roots rot, and even where that should accidentally not take place, the qual- ity of the wine will never be very good. The only way to render such a soil fit for a vineyard, is by a copious application of lime or marl mixed with sand,—yet it may be done, but not efficiently, by mixing with it a sandy loam. Little, however, as vineyards will prosper in such cold soils, they will succeed just as little in too light sandy soils, unless well mixed with clay loam, or clayey marl. ; | The soil most to be preferred in climates such as the Northern and Middle States of this Union, is that so generally prevailing rich loam, mixed with some gravel and marl. This kind of soil differs largely in various locations, and it will take a more or less lengthened 18 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. period of individual experience to find the best loca- tions. We should, however, always examine into the more general admixtures of the soil which we propose to select for our vineyard. There should always be some sand, some clay, some limestone, and some gravel init. Is there too little sand or gravelly limestone, then, the soil will soon become too clayey and cold, or if there is too much gravel and sand, then vegetation is Impeded. Our soils almost invariably lack what Huropean vineyard men prize so highly—gypsum— and this must be supplied by proper manures. The best wines in Europe grow upon the hill-sides of lime or gypsum mountain ridges, whose formation is some- what mixed with sandstone. The color of the soil is not always a sure indication of the quality of the soul, but it may be assumed as a general rule, that soils for vineyards should neither be a very light yellow, nor a very brown red. ‘To recapitulate, therefore : The altitude of a vineyard should neither be too high nor too low, as compared with the surrounding country. ‘The exposure should be selected with due reference to giving full chance to the sun’s rays during the entire day ; and the soil should neither be too rich nor too poor,—affording to the roots of the vine and to atmospheric influences an easy chance to penetrate. PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. 19 PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. THIS matter embraces the foundation of the whole subject of vine culture, and herein nearly every vine- yard yet planted in America is defective. Labor is so extremely high here, as to make it seem to us almost impossible to start a vineyard as it should be. Our very best vineyards are spaded up but two feet, while in many parts of Europe they spade up the ground to the depth of three and four, and even five feet. We never prepare the ground itself, during the preced- ing year, while in Europe it 1s sowed down in clover, for a few years previous, and well covered with good coatings of gypsum and manure. We trust to the vir- gin richness of our soil, and in our confidence are apt to forget that spading up the ground for several feet is done for other reasons besides mere fertilizing; and that among these, for us especially, must be a sinking below the subsoil the present surface or upper soil, which being full of decomposed vegetable matter, is the hot-bed of all manner of insects. The spading up and turning of the surface soil beneath its present subsoil, is of the greatest importance, because thereby the ‘‘ Foot Roots” may penetrate downwardly, and thus give to the whole grapevine not only its vigor, but also its great safeguard against too sudden atmospheric changes, or long-continued droughts, And I may in 20 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. connection with this, here remark upon an erroneous suggestion, which I have noticed in some agricultural journals, They suggest a longer “stem.” I do not think that the stem should be much longer than twenty inches, but think it of the first importance that the foot roots should penetrate deeply. The ground intended for a vineyard should be well manured the previous year, either by a coating of lime, where that kind of manuring is proper, or by gypsum, where it can be had; or by ploughing under some green sward, such as clover; or at least by a good and thor- ough coat of manure, straw, or even leaves. Of the ground thus prepared, the surface should, for the depth of twelve inches at least, be sunk beneath twelve inches of soil immediately underneath. This is best done, if the ground be loamy, with the spade, or if stony with the mattock. For this purpose a trench is first dug four feet wide, and to the depth to which the vine-dresser is going to spade up and trench his vine- yard. Into this first trench, say four feet wide and two to four feet deep, and as long as the vineyard may be, say two hundred feet, is then thrown twelve inches of the surface soil (using the very best steel spades), and by driving the spade into the ground as nearly perpéendicu- lar as possible, and not slanting, as lazy laborers are apt to do; for thus alone can this top soil be spaded up to the depth of at least twelve inches. The loose soil PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. ot which is left in the trench, having crumbled from the spade, must then be carefully scraped into the first trench, and then the twelve inches of subsoil must again be similarly spaded up and thrown upon the previously spaded up surface soil, and so on, each twelve inches to the depth required. And the loose soil left in the bottom, must also again be carefully shoveled up and thrown upon the other ground. Thus trench after trench will be regularly formed, until the whole allotted piece is finished. Let the reader bear in mind, as the sine qud non of a good vineyard, that it is not a mixture of the surface with the subsoil that’s wanted ; but that the subsoil cover, for twelve inches at least, and twenty to thirty if possible, the original surface soil, and the deeper this is done (always in reason) the better. ‘It is far better, view it in whatever hight we may, to have a small, good vineyard, than a large, poor one. The ground thus spaded up should be permitted to settle well, before the vines are planted. One or two good rains will generally accomplish this. The best method is, however, to trench in the fall, and plant in the spring. There are other methods of preparing the ground. One is to make large holes, throwing the surface soil underneath and planting the vines therein. Deep ploughing and subsoiling is also frequently 22, THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. adopted. I have tried all these methods. The first vineyard I set out by merely digging holes; another by ploughing some sixteen inches deep, with a large plough, drawn by four yoke of oxen, and followed with a subsoil plough, drawn by a pair of horses, and another by trenching as above suggested, thirty inches deep. As to results I can only say, that the first planted vineyard is now being dug up, because it was always liable to every disease which happened to prevail in the season, having hardly yielded a fair compensation for the labor expended ; the subsoiled vineyard does bet- ter, but I have no hopes of its lasting more than twenty years; while a well-trenched vineyard, to the depth of thirty-six inches, with such virgin soil as we have in America, should, and doubtless would last—i/ otherwise properly managed—eighty to one hundred years. I shall hereafter trench any vineyards I may plant, at least thirty-six inches, and recommend the same course to all others. T am informed that there is now being constructed in Cincinnati, a large plough to be drawn by six yoke of oxen, and warranted to plough the ground twenty-eight inches deep. I have not seen this latest improvement, and can only say that unless this plough does leave a clean furrow, at least twelve inches wide of the prom- ised depth, it will not answer. The large ploughs I have seen do not accomplish this. They break the ground PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. 293 up, mix it somewhat, but do not turn the top soil under. This, for reasons already stated, is not enough. It is hardly necessary for me to say, that the proce- dure must be varied with the ground. Some soils are naturally rich to the required depth, though I should fear such soils for vineyards. Others are very rocky and must be worked with the mattock and grubbing hoe. Good sense will in each case dictate the requisite mode, if we will but bear in mind the great point in a vineyard view. This is to get the surface soil beneath the subsoil, so as to afford from the very start of the vine, to the “roots” at the ‘‘/oot” of the vine, an easy, healthy and steady downward growth. They are the hfe of the vine, and their continued health is most im- portant. Ifthey are but thrifty, then we need not fear but what the ‘side’ and “surface roots” will always grow and prosper in due time and in proper manner. In vineyards along side hills, it is well to use the stones generally found therein, for the purpose of erect- ’ These walls should ing walls to prevent “ washing.’ have their foundation deep enough, so as to be out of the reach of heavy winter frosts. They should be so slantingly laid up, as to bear properly “ to land.” Such walls are not only useful, but they are an ornament to the vineyard and the general landscape. If properly iaid up, they last as long as the vineyard. Where stones are lacking, it may be necessary to 24 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. raise banks by sodding them with green sward. They are not as good as stone walls, since the green sward is apt to subject the neighboring vines to frost, but the ground must be protected from washing even at this risk. I take it for granted, however, that there are very few side hills indeed, where by trenching deep enough, there will not be the required quantity of stones. I have thus indicated the general rules by which we must be guided in the preparation of the ground in each special case, and I must now only add, that it is a great but frequent error to suppose that throwing old logs, brushwood or ‘stones, underneath, promotes the growth of vines. ‘They may not hinder them, if well packed with ground, but great care should be taken not to leave vacuities, as they are sure to impart to the “ foot roots’ an unhealthy state. Vines should always be planted after the ground is well settled, and not before. The ground should also be well harrowed, so as to ren- der it perfectly even and in complete cultivating order. Before dismissing this chapter I would add, that according to my experience, there is, in fact, but little actual difference in the cost between a well-trenched vineyard and one slovenly laid out. To trench an acre three feet deep, is worth in common soil $100; two feet deep, $75. With large ploughs, followed by subsoilers, an acre costs about $25. To dig holes, merely costs about $15. But mark it, you save in a well-trenched PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. 7Ag) vineyard each year, for three years, one hoeing, at least, and you get a good crop in the fourth year. Your vines grow up regular, as in such a vineyard but few miss; and lastly, let me say to you, that having started right, you are apt to keep right, and are there- fore every way sure to have a good vineyard. HOW TO MARK OUT A VINEYARD, AND GET IT READY FOR THE VINES. THE ground being properly prepared and settled, as previously suggested, the next thing to be done is the staking out of the vineyard. ‘To do this, it is well to prepare as many little marking sticks (say twelve inches long and half an inch square, pointed at one end) as there are to be grapehills in the vineyard; for instance, an acre planted four feet apart each way, about 2,200 hills. The next thing to determine is, how far apart it is in- tended to have the rows. There is no settled rule upon this subject. Ihave seen, in Europe, thrifty vineyards one foot apart, and I have seen them ten feet apart. The four by four may, however, be said to be the pre- vailing and most approved custom. I have myself lately adopted five by five, and I like the appearance of it very well. In Italy, I am told, vines are planted 26 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. twenty feet apart, and then they alternate with fruit trees, in the intermediate space,—say a row of fruit trees, and ten feet from it a row of vines, and so on. I cannot, without occupying too much space, enter into a discussion of the relative merits of wide or nar- row planting. I can only say that, in my humble opinion, it is best not to plant narrower than four by four, nor wider than six by six. A vineyard spaded up to the proper depth has cost so much as to be in itself a veto on too wide planting, and I may as well admit that I am no friend to mammoth vineyards. In no business is slovenliness more pernicious than in that of a vintner, and I cannot get clear of the impression that large vineyards cannot receive in all points that close attention which is required to raise good wine, and to guard the vines against premature decay. It is to be expected that various methods will prevail, ac- cording to locality, but I doubt not that four by four will prove the most generally applicable. In fact, we we may say, that such is actually the case. Let each follow in this matter his own good sense, and adopt, from the best lights around him, the proper width, bearing in mind the humidity or dryness of his soil, and securing the proper light and shade. This done, get good strong cords, long enough to reach as often as necessary across the entire vineyard. Mark off one cord by putting’in a slip of muslin at each HOW TO MARK OUT A VINEYARD. 2T of the required distances (say four or five feet apart). This is called the marking cord. These cords and the little sticks being ready, let the vineyard be laid out, as near as possible, into a square piece of ground. Then starting at the northwest cor- ner, fastening the marking cord there, draw it from thence to the northeast corner, putting the little sticks into the ground at the places marked by muslin in the marking cord; then fastening the marking cord at the northeast corner, draw it thence to the southeast corner, again putting in the sticks at the proper places, and thus on from the southeast corner to the southwest, and again from southwest to the place of beginning. This marks the outer rows. This work should be carefully done, so as to get the vineyard into regular squares. Then draw parallel cords north and south from each of the little sticks on the rows, which stand in the row between the northwest and northeast corner, to the sticks in the row from the southwest to the southeast corner. Across these parallel cords, which are fastened, the marking cord, east and west, as in the annexed cut, is stretched crosswise, and held there by a person at each end, while two or more hands put in the marking sticks | at those places where the marking cord crosses each of the parallel cords. As soon as the sticks are put in at 28 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. these cord crossings, and one row is formed, this cross or rather marking cord is removed and again held over another parallel cord, so as again to form another row, and so on to the end. Fig. 2 will illustrate this fully. Almost complete exactness is thus obtained. Fie. 2. Northwest corner. Northeast corner. oa @ ° : e e 3 e e e 8 e .- e  r) e e es ¢ Ss : © » e ; LS Southwest corner. Southeast corner. Short rows should, if possible, be avoided, and where this cannot be done, they should be so fixed as not to strike the eye offensively. The direction of the rows should be such as to allow the sun to have the greatest effect—at the same time so as to prevent washing by rains, THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 29 THE PROPAGATION AND MULTIPLICATION OF VINES, AND HOW TO PLANT THEM. WE have now presented to the reader various mat- ters, such as location and preparation of the ground, and we are now ready to actually start the vineyard. How to do this, whether with cuttings or slips, or with roots, or from the seed, are questions which sometimes perplex speculative minds. | No plant, that I can now think of, is capable of so varied means of propagation as the grapevine. <A erapevine can be propagated from the seed, from cut- tings, by “layers,” and by inoculation and grafting. It is right and proper that those who have the means, should experiment by raising vines from the seed, as thereby we will get a greater variety of grapevines, and such as will be permanently suitable to each re- spective locality; but it is not advisable, for any one desirous to set out a vineyard, to attempt to get his vines from the seed, because it will take from five to ten years thus to get bearing vines, and because it is next to impossible to get anything like regular rows by such a method. A very easy and advantageous multiplication of vines may also be obtained by laying down, or sinking, (29) 30 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. from existing and growing vines, branches, or side or ground shoots, as shown in Fig. 3. Fig. 8. (3 Y t \ 4 ¢ ‘ fo \ LAY \ S S GK SS WW UW \ \ \\ SS IS SS NY N XX \ \\\\ WS WS SN SN SS S WSS SS SS Wy Y The branch marked a is a summer shoot, to raise grape roots, to be put down in June or July. That marked b is a permanent layer, to be put down in the fall, winter or spring. Persons having grape arbors, or vineyards, may thus multiply and spread them, in a very few years, over a very large space of ground. If it is intended to leave these layers in the ground where they are sunk, it is necessary that they should be laid down as deep as cuttings are, say twenty inches; but where these “layers” are made with a view to have them form roots, with a view to be transplanted to other locali- ties, they may be sunk but about eight inches. Per- manent “layers” are a convenient, and much to be recommended method, to fill up any vacancies in a THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 31 vineyard, which may arise either from the failureof the planted cutting, or from some old grapevine being seriously injured by storms, or other casualties. Such “layers” must, after the first year, be half cut off from the parent vine, and after the second, entirely, or else they would injure the old vine. Those that are intended for transplanting, after they shall have formed roots, must be cut off the same season they are planted in the fall. I refer to the wood cut, Fig. 3, which I trust will convey the proper meaning. Grafting and inoculating grapevines is done under the same rules as grafting and inoculating fruit trees generally. The graft should, however, always be in- serted a few inches under the ground into the stem. I doubt whether either grafting or budding is to be recommended, as a general rule, to raise a vineyard. The safest and most advantageous propagation and multiplication of vines, in planting a vineyard, is through cuttings. They are easier obtained, and are least expensive. I am free to say, that I prefer cut- tings to grape roots, even at the same price, and for the following reasons: They remain in that spot, where they were first planted, and there at once permanently form their roots. These first virgin roots, especially at - the foot, can never again be supplied by any second growth. And again, grape roots are always, when planted for sale, set out in the very richest ground, 2 39 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. sygh as is loamy and well cultivated; and it is easy to imagine, that a vine, taken from such old, rich soil, and then transplanted into the raw, newly-spaded vineyard ground, must necessarily receive a shock to their growth, which must render them more short-lived than vines grown from cuttings. A cutting remains in the Fig. 4. Poor cutting. Better cutting. vith eos cutting, vineyard, and its virgin roots are not torn off or in- jured. This I regard of great importance. Grape roots may bear one year earlier than cuttings; but beyond that much-coveted, and at best doubtful first year, every consideration is in favor of the cutting. THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 83 Great care, however, should be taken in the selection of cuttings, and the same must be said of “roots.” This cut willassist the reader in guarding against imposition. It represents three different qualities of cuttings. We may lay down the following general rules: 1st. The vine from which you select your cutting - should be healthy, and those not more than ten nor less than three years old. 2d. The wood of the cutting should be soundly ripe of the early spring’s growth of the previous year, and not of the second growth, which appears in or after the month of June. The part nearest to the old wood will rarely fail to grow. Cut C represents such a cutting. 3d. The more joints or buds within a given length the better. They should be closer together near the lower end than the upper. Ath. The more compact the stemwood, the finer the sap vessels, and the smaller the pith, the better. Coarse reedy cuttings, such as Cut A, are worth but little. 5th. Each cutting should be not less than twenty nor more than twenty-four inches long. 6th. Old wood of more than one year’s growth is unsuitable for cuttings. Cut with a sharp knife smoothly and nicely just below the bud at the foot, being careful not to injure the joint; but above the upper bud, which is to form the “head,” leave about two inches of wood, so as to 34 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. form a protection to the cutting when in the ground, and that it may be held thereby when planting. In taking off the first cutting from the old wood, the foot should be the very first bud near, or, if possible, upon the old wood, as in the best cutting, marked letter C. That proper caution should be used to keep the cut- tings right side up into the ground, will, I am sure, be understood by all. The upper part of the cutting may easily be ascertained by the upward pointing of the bud. The planting is now performed ; if by cuttings, two to each hill, sometimes by making holes with a hoe or spade as near as possible to the marking stick, which remains in its place. The cuttings are then put in and covered carefully with earth. But there is another, much speedier and equally good method. Have one or two “stilts” made, about four feet long and three inches thick, pointed with an iron socket of about twenty-two inches length. See Figs. 5 and 6. With these stilts the holes are made close to the marking sticks two feet deep, and by moving the stilt from side to side the hole can be made sufficiently large. There may be one hole to each cutting, or both cut- THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. BB tings may be inserted at once in the same hole, taking care to keep them separated by placing the fingers be- tween them. These holes are made as nearly perpendicular as may be, and the cuttings are inserted deep enough to have the upper bud one half an inch below the surface of the ground. The cut, Fig. 7, will illustrate the position. The cuttings are then held with one hand, while with the other loose earth or sand is poured in, around and 36 THE VINE-DRESSER’S MANUAL. between them. Then pour water into the hole suffi- cient to “slime” in the sand compactly around the cuttings, at the same time avoid pressing with the feet near to the hole, as this renders the ground hard. If the holes are dug with the hoe or spade, the cut- tings may be put in slanting always from the hill, if the surface is not level, and slimed in as above. If the planting is made with grape roots, the same care required by fruit trees should be given to have all the bruised roots cut with a sharp knife, and the foot roots carefully surrounded with fine earth, while they are spread in a natural position, and afterwards water is poured around them. No grape root or cutting should be planted after the 15th of May. They should be in the ground as much WHAT SPECIES TO CULTIVATE. AY| earlier as possible, if the season be favorable and the ground is in proper order. Vineyards should never be set out and planted in wet, slushy weather. 