proceedings of the royal geographical society and monrthly record of geography
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‘ | as Ca ss + pee ARN wy 9 ee KG AOL De + i ee Oe ’ Ay < ? = es f ~~ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2022 with funding from _ Kahle/Austin Foundation =t F : a a aes ss https ‘//archive.org/details/proceedingsofroy0004v PROCEEDINGS OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY AND _ MONTHLY RECORD OF GEOGRAPHY. PUBLISHED UNDER THE AUTHORITY OF THE COUNCIL, AND EDITED BY THE ASSISTANT SECRETARY, 1, SAVILE ROW. NEW MONTHLY SERIES. SY S7G, IN, 1B8B. 2 23: LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD, 55, CHARING CROSS. 1889, + th g | 7. ei mos LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. Te+8 9748 « e eo ees € at. fe o) -e6 €r git Ke e eae c ee* ec € Ore @ oes eee ee e* e6 (te, ern ° te Re eee ° e Ss e*e ©e "ce ee CP ce5o3e Ce es e « e i “e* / ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY. PATRON. HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN. VICE-PATRON. HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE OF WALKS, K.G., K.T,, K.P., G.C.B., &c., &c. Honorary-President. HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH, K.G., K.T., ; G.C.8.1L, &c., &c. COUNCIL (ELECTED 22np MAY, 1882). President—Right Hon. Lorp Azrrpars, F.R.S. Vice-Presidents. Sir Ruruerrorp Axncock, K.C.B. - Sir Barrow H. Etuis, K.C.S.1. Rt. Hon. Sir H. Barrie EH. Frerz, Bart., G.C.B. General Sir J. H. Lerroy, RB.A., K.C.M.G. R. H. Masor, Esq., F.S.A. Major-General Sir H. C, Rawtinson, K.C.B Treasurer—Recinatp T. Cocks, Esq. Trustees—Lord Hoveuron, D.C.L.; Sir Jonn Lussocx, Bart., F.R.S. Secretaries—C.iements R. Marxuam, Esq., C.B., F.R.S.; Doveras W. FRESHFIELD, Esq. Foreign Secretary—Lord Arrutr Russet, M.P. Members of Council. Joun Batti, Esq., F.R.S. Sir Henry Barkty, G.C.M.G., K.C.B. EK. H. Bunsury, Esq. Sir T. Fowrtt Buxton, Bart. Rt. Hon. Lord Corres oe. ie N, Cust, Esq. James Frercusson, Esq., F.R.S. Francis Gatton, Hsq., F.R.S. Colonel H. H. Gopwiy-Austen, F.R.S. Colonel J. A. Grant, C.B., C.S.L, F.R.S. Sir Joun Kirk, M.D., K.C.M.G. J. K. Laueurton, Esq. Right Hon. Sir Austen H. 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Copies of the Regulations and Candidates’ Certificates may be had on applica- tion at the Society’s Office, 1, Savile Row, London, W. CONTENTS. Authors are alone responsible for their respective statements. No.1. January. PAGE Lake Tanganyika. By Edw. Coode Hore .. . 1 Measures for the Search and Relief of the United States Hecate ens Expedition. By C. R. Markham, c.z. : 28 The Dutch Arctic Voyages (1878, 1879, 1880, 1881) ah ike probable pesition of Mr. Leigh Smith. By Commodore Jansen .... 35 Geographical Notes es NS Wee Gee coe wey Mock eee Report of the Evening Meetings EE EE tN we ide Oiing | Lot aoe, ec LO Broceedings Ol POFSIEI OOCIOUES -.40 weg fae ies weet ws. Ge ath ety lene 100 | SK Smee, ne eee Se nie eb eo ais Man etre) “pe. sie Plead Seeger OU Mars.—Lake Tanganyika; Southern Part of Lake Tanganyika; Wrangell Island 2) hisses ee Anil NCE cin) MeO eee orks ery th AO : No. 2. February. Notes on the Basin of the River Rovuma, Hast Africa, By Joseph Thomson.. 65 Makua Land, between the Rivers Rovuma and Luli. By the Rev. Chauncy Rie ta testea Ne.) Wie, rae Sr os wt ae! tne ee nee Geographical Notes SNe soy | SY oy ee a 90 Obituary... .. Be mn oytos gscin tionipcataioe kos Se eeLOl Report of the Evening Meetings SoA yuh Peerage ay Sy bene A Beare 8) Proceedings of Foreign Societies .. -. -. we te te wee we we 102 Mimaicoots and. New Maye. ~<55. 5.’ 922 Gent ope en ct we ce cee TS Mar.—Rovuma River and Region tothe South... .. .. . ., « «. 128 No. 3. March. Across Iceland by the Sprengisandr Route. By Cuthbert H. Peek., .. .. 129 Excursion to Askja, August 1881. By E, Delmar Morgan .. ao lz) } A Journey into the Nguru Country from Mamboia, Hast Central Avion, By J. T. Last Pee ee ae ea eee Ore lattes Neely! TP Te, eee Geographical Notes a Pie AR Hie Lorioval LSU) The United States Arctic Fixpedition to age Franks Bey ot cee MeO Report of the Evening Meetings .. -. 9) es ee te ee te tes 176 Proceedings of Foreign Societies .. 6. +) =) te te te te 176 New Books and New Maps .. -- ie ei eee ie eee oL Mars.—Iceland, with Plan of Great Gers District of Nguru, E, Central Pe dt ee ak aoe) ete GaSb eTige Vas) Pehl! a) LOR vi CONTENTS. No. 4. April. A Three Months’ Journey in the Makua and Lomwe Countries. By H. EH, O’Neill, H.B.M. Consul, Mozambique... .. o- «+ «+ oF The New Russo-Persian Frontier east of the Caspian Sea Lieutenant Kalitin’s Journey across the Turkoman Desert from Gedk-teren to the Khivan Oasis Geographical Notes Report of the Evening Metiice Proceedings of Foreign Societies .. New Books and New Maps .. Mars,—Makua Country, East Africa .. a: New Russo-Persian Frontier east of ie Cassiad de No. 5. May. he River Irawadi and its Sources. = Major J. H, Sandeman, Bengal Staff Corps .. The Elephant Bepormenvi in piney a orice account of the Holeian: Blephant Expedition on the march from Dar-es-Salaam to Mpwapwa. By L. K. Rankin, B.A. Cantab., F.B.G.S. Eg ee ae Geographical Notes : On the Instruction at present ona in ne Cate. in Practical Astoneny, Navigation, Route Surveying, and Mapping Obitnarye.on en a ce Coe nice New Books and New Maps Mar.—The Sources of the Irawadi No. 6. June. The Annual Address on the Progress of Weare for 1881-2. e the pe Hon. Lord Aberdare, F-R.8., President . ke Obituary for the Year 1881-2 .. .. Indian Surveys for the Year 1880-81 .. Merv and its Surroundings. By Edmond 0’ Denoves 3 A Journey in the Atlas and the Northern Part of the Mien Sahel ee Valentin de Gorloff : Rev. Thomas Wakefield’s Four th J eee to the Seuthens Galla County i in 1877 Re Captain Paiva de Andralas Barhhesi Bapelition, 1881 Geographical Notes a Go Correspondence we Report of the Evening Mostings “0 Proceedings of Foreign Societies. New Books and New Maps. Mars.—The Lakes of Sigirso, Galla Country Route from Senna to Manica .. PAGE 193 213 219 224 238 238 245 256 214 257 273 289 296 314 317 822 328 329 339 340 845 358 368 3872 875 381 882 883 387 370 373 CONTENTS, No. 7. July. Surveys and Explorations in the Native States of the Malayan Peninsula, 1875-82. By D. D. Daly, Superintendent of Public Works and jibes Sélangor .. Dr. Albert Regel’s Ji barney in i Rarateghin and Darwae Captain P. de Andrada’s Journeys to Maxinga Geographical Notes Obituary . es The (Oe et Mestng Report of the Evening Meetings Proceedings of Foreign Societies New Books and New Maps .. and the Marbe. 1881 Mars.—The Malay Peninsula; Northern Part of Perak .. Darwaz Maxinga and the Mazoe (Zambesi Region) c No. 8. August. On the Geography of the Birthplace and Cradle of the Mahratta Empire. By Sir Richard Temple, Bart., G.¢.8.1., D.OL. .. The Rev. W. P. Johnson’s Journeys in ‘the Yao Country, ad Discovery a the Sources of the Lujende .. The Kong Mountains. By Gapmae M. P. M. Lessar’s Journey from Askabad to Sarakhs Geographical Notes.. a Report of the Evening Movin 6 Proceedings of Foreign Societies New Books and New Maps .. Mars.—Mahratta Country ; Yao or No. 9 Geographical Excursions in South Central ey Deans Cowan .. Notes on the Shakti Valley, aarti: Rs 7 Burton Ajawa Country .. September. By the Rev. William te Captain G, F, Young, Bengal Staff Corps, Deputy-Assistant Quartermaster-General Geographical Notes Report on Admiralty Surveys i fie Your 1881. hes ihe. Hiydrographer, Captain Sir Frederick J. O. Evans, B.N., K.C.B., F.R.S. Correspondence .. « Proceedings of Foreign Bécistics New Books and New Maps .. Mars.—South-Central Madagascar ; Shaktti Valley .. vil PAGE 393 412 417 420 424 425 437 437 439 456 413 418 viil CONTENTS. No. 10. October. The Cameroons District, West Africa. By George Grenfell cae ee On the Coast Lands and some Rivers and Ports of Mozambique. By H. FE. O’Neill, H.B.M. Consul, ae ane ie ie Cie 0 ld. ene Geographical Notes 4 ; : Obituary .. e Proceedings of the Gecarapiical Section of ile British esocation a New Books Mars.—Cameroons District; Mozambique Coast .. -. ws estes No. 11. November. ie Notes on the Oldest Records of the Sea-route to China from Western Asia. By Colonel H. Yule, o.3., R.5. se See A Sledge Journey in the Delta of the aaron ion Kase ey HE. W. Nelson Notes of a Journey through ae i te Ueitean Table- land of ‘Bolivia 4 in 1 1882, By John B. Minchin The Abor Country, on the Upper wean i fe Bratwap uae Work of the German African Association in Western Equatorial nee on Geographical Notes .. Obituary . : ip New Books and Nes ew Map a Maprs.—Northern Alaska; T'able-land of Bolivia Ancient Sea-route to China Routes in West Africa No. 12. December. Exploration through the South China Borderlands, from the Mouth of the Si-kiang to the Banks of the Irawadi. By A. R. Colquhoun... .. «. Native Routes in East Africa from Pangani to the Masai Country and the Victoria Nyanza. By the Ven. J. P. Farler, Archdeacon of Magila in Usambara oc se Native Routes through the Masai Gomntry, es inane obtained re ‘he Revel. Wakefieldicsg ty eeietew, sin ls ns 8G ee ee MounteKenia... ” 43, seuemeemnee a ie ake Weel) Ve <a ore Geographical Notes Obituary Be Report of the Bvening Meetings : Proceedings of Foreign Societies New Books and New Maps .. Mars.—Southern China: Mr, Colquhoun’s Route; The Masai Country INDEX PAGE 585 595 606 612 614 646 648 649 660 671 676 678 685 697 700 712 651 679 PROCEEDINGS OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY AND MONTHLY RECORD OF GEOGRAPHY. Lake Tanganyika. By Epw. Coopz Hors, Master Mariner. (Read at the Evening Meeting, November 28th, 1881.) Maps, p. 64. Ix March 1877 I was appointed to the London Missionary Society’s pioneer expedition in Central Africa; to myself was committed more especially the care of such scientific observations as could be carried out amidst our various duties, the survey of the lake, and the marine department of the Mission. To aid me in this work, I was introduced by the late Dr. Mullens to your Society, and received from the late Commander George such information as enabled me to use with effect the meteorological instruments with which we were provided, and especially a most careful instruction in the use of the hypsometrical apparatus, by aid of which I have been able to produce a section of the country in addition to my map of the route. I have presented to the Society a two years’ series of meteorological observations made at Ujiji, and a three months’ series made at Kirasa’s, in the Mukondokwa valley. Mer- curial barometers have also since been set up at Urambo and at Uguha. Road to the Lake.—The road we were to take, though parallel to some extent with what might be called the old road used by Cameron and Stanley, was in fact almost entirely new. The portions from Saadani to Mpwapwa, avoiding the Makata swamp, were taken on the recom-, mendation of Mr. Roger Price, who had made a preliminary journey so far; and the portion leading through the territory of the chief Mirambo was determined on with the twofold purpose of avoiding the Arab settlement of Unyanyembe, and of opening friendly negotiations with Mirambo. More than this, we were to introduce a new (for Central Africa, at least) system of transport—bullock waggons. Landing at Saadani in June, we at once commenced training bullocks for this service, and at the latter end of July we really started for the interior with our bullock train. Succeeding eventually in No. I.—Javn. 1882.] B 2 LAKE TANGANYIKA. reaching Kirasa, the bullock transport came to an end by the death of these animals by the tsetse fly. Every other difficulty had been overcome for 150 miles of the most difficult part of the road, and only in respect of the fatal tsetse can this experiment be called a failure. Returning eventually to the ordinary modes of transport by porters, the remaining part of the journey, namely from Mpwapwa to Ujiji, was accomplished in 87 days, a journey which, considering the amount of goods carried and the new experience to be bought, has not yet been surpassed. We arrived at Ujiji on the 23rd August, 1878. I think there has been much misapprehension in England with regard to this old road. At one of your meetings in December last year it was stated, In comparing it with another road, that a caravan journey from Zanzibar to Ujiji occupied six months, and that the rate for trans- port of goods was about 4007. per ton; whereas the fact was, our first real caravan journey was accomplished in 116 days, or less than four months, the second in 99 days, and I have myself walked over the same road in 62 consecutive or 50 marching days. The 4000. per ton represented not mere transport, but most exceptional loss. Again, in the Times of the 27th of March 1879 it was stated that, with the assistance of steam power on Lake Nyassa and the river Zambesi, the journey from Lake Tanganyika to Quilimane might be accomplished in 45 days, and to London in 75 days, and the writer was apparently ignorant of the fact that, nearly a year before, the first party we despatched from Ujiji by the old road reached the coast in 45 days, the letters reaching London in 78 days. Of this route I have made a map and section. The latitudes of various points have been fixed by meridian observations of stars north and south. On my recent journey to the coast I measured the road distance of each day’s journey by means of a perambulator which I constructed at Ujiji. The moist and luxuriant coast region, the scrubby plains and harsh thorny jungles of eastern and western Ugogo, with the beautiful forest dividing them, the step on to the forest plateau of Uyansi and Unyamwesi, the growing luxuriance of the Tanganyika watershed, I cannot here describe ; I hope to do so some day, together with the surprising advances to be observed in the arts and industries and in social order amongst the natives as we proceed further inland. General Description of the Lake.—Lake Tanganyika is 330 miles in length, with a coast-line of 900 miles, and its depth is hitherto un- fathomed. A survey spreading over such distances, although of two years’ continuance, must necessarily be but a rough one. Various theories have been suggested to account for the disposal of the vast quantities of water which drain into the Tanganyika, such as enormous evaporation, subterranean outlet, &c., &e. What I have to remark on this point embraces no theory, but is a simple account of ob- servations made during my residence upon the lake shores. I found the a ee) ae sd: teas LAKE TANGANYIKA. 3 lake to be 2700 fees above the sea-level, and at the time of our arrival Arabs and natives alike agreed in informing me that its waters were slowly but surely rising, and had been doing so for some length of time. But a close observation on my part failed to ascertain any rise, and desiring to obtain accurate information on the subject, I erected, in March 1879, a water gauge on the shores at Ujiji. By the 27th of May I found that the waters had fallen 2 feet, and they continued to fall until, in August 1880, they reached a point 10 feet 44 inches below my original watermark. Most evident signs of the receding of the waters mi ght be seen all round the shores of the lake, in belts of dead timber and bleached rock. The Arabs were agreed that, shortly before our arrival, the Lukuga obstruction was broken away, and I am inclined to believe from these reports, and from personal observation, that the lake had been rising gradually for a long term of years, until the force of water carried away that obstruction, and the Lukuga river became the veritable outlet of the lake. That the evaporation was sufficient in some years to maintain the lake at a level is very likely the case, but the loss from this cause would be overcome in heavy rainy seasons by the larger accumulation of incoming waters, and the lake would increase. The rainy seasons are extremely different in different years ; hence a few successive wet years would cause an unusual rising of the lake waters, such as seemed to have occurred just before our arrival. I am convinced that the lake never, or at any rate for very many years, was at such a height as just before that time. But this is quite apart from any geological evidence of the different state of things in remote ages. I have been understood to connect the changes of the water level of Tanganyika with earthquake movements. This I did not intend to do, but merely to admit the possibility of such a theory, and the probability that the bed of the lake is in reality a vast chasm caused by volcanic or earthquake movement, by calling attention to the fact that such move- ment is not uncommon even now. Some twenty years ago, the Arabs informed me that an extraordinary disturbance of the lake waters occurred, a long line of broken water being seen bubbling and recking with steam. The next morning all was tranquil, but the shore was strewed with fragments of a substance resembling bitumen, a specimen of which I have deposited with your Society. The first severe shock of earthquake I felt myself at Ujiji was at 9 p.m. on the 10th of August, 1880, which shook the house considerably. There had been two or three slight shocks at the same time in the previous year, but on this occasion the succeeding vibrations lasted for two or three months longer at intervals. There seemed to be a line of vibration through N.N.W. to 5.8.E., and I observed a crack in the earth right through the town of Ujiji, extending for two or three miles in broken intervals in this direction. Captain Carter, of the Belgian expedition, also noticed a shock of earthquake at about eal period B 2 4 LAKE TANGANYIKA. in Southern Unyamwesi, and Mr. Thomson, of the Royal Geographical Society’s expedition, reports a shock at Kapufi’s, on the Lofu river, on April 12th, about 4 p.m. Although of such large extent, and of such variety of aspect, there isa general sameness in the Tanganyika scenery; the whole basin forms in fact a vast chasm enclosed within mountain ranges or cliffs, terminating in elevated plateaux, a few lower lands intervening, natural gaps in the ranges, banks and deltas formed by eroding torrents, and in a few localities, such as at Ujiji and elsewhere, a strip of shelving beach in an east and west direction breaks the general north and south line of the lake. North of Ujiji the surrounding mountains approach the lake shore with but a small interval of low undulating hills, and have the appearance of meeting some distance north of the lake, as described by Captain Speke. The extreme north end, however, is low alluvial land, with banks of reed and papyrus; following the general rule on the lake, which is, that bordering a shore trending east and west, an expanse of shallow water and a low beach are usually found, as though the shore had been washed down gradually by the waves. In some places, however, this is a bringing down and depositing of matters by rivers. The peninsula of Ubwari is simply a long ridge ascending steeply from the lake on all sides. I found the southern half of the Burton Gulf to be very shallow, obtaining, on sounding, only four or five fathoms of water right across it. The isthmus of Ukaramba is formed of low hills, and behind Ubwari there is a considerable expanse of lower land between the lake and the mountains, which again approach the shore at Goma. The lofty and level horizon of the Goma hills is one of the sights of the lake. About half the year it is visible from Ujiji, on a clear day, though 40 miles distant, and the streams, descending to the lake down these lofty hill- sides, may be plainly seen lke silver threads. The paths to the villages, which are placed on the ridges and peaks of these hills, are in some places mere flights of steps. Though molested by several of the lake tribes, the Wagoma are a spirited and industrious race, and have grand resources further inland in a rich ivory country, of which little is yet known. The country of Uguha, with its bay of islands, its Lukuga, and its Plymouth Rock Mission Station, forms a decided gap in the rim of the lake basin; as such it has formed hitherto the natural gateway to the regions beyond, for those who have penetrated these regions, and as such is a position of much importance both to missionaries and travellers. Moving south along this west coast, the mountains approach the lake again gradually till the aspect of the steep shores of Goma is repeated in the rich and populous districts of Marungu and Itawa. Another gap at LAKE TANGANYIKA, 5 the Cameron bays, and we approach the loftiest barriers of the lake at the south end. From the Lofu river round by capes Kalambwe and Pambete to the district of Kituta, the glorious undercliff of the Isle of Wight is repro- duced on a gigantic scale and with tropical vegetation. The airy but still luxuriant downs above afford some splendid and healthy localities amongst which the London Missionary Society are about to select a site for another station, at a point which will be the Tanganyika terminus of Mr. Stevenson’s road between the two lakes. The entrance to the Lofu river is itself worthy of separate descrip- tion. It is in the southern corner of the bay formed by the northern coast of Ulungu and the south-east corner of Itawa. With the wind east, or anywhere from east to north, there is a very nasty chop on a bat considerably outside of what would ordinarily be considered the actual mouth of the river. The embouchure itself is not visible until one comes close upon it; then, turning sharp round to the southward, a beautiful gap in the coast-line opens to view a broad and deep entrance. Where there are sheltered points in the river banks, there the long water-grass and papyrus accumulate in thick masses of very bright green, which are so fresh and flourishing and clear of débris as to add considerably to the beauty of the scene instead of the contrary, which is more generally the case on the lake shores. Steep verdant slopes rise up on every side, broken by gullies choked with dense vegetation, and con- ducting smaller streams into the general outlet. There is no expanse of river to be seen here. Sailing into the entrance, one appears to be only running up into an inlet with large masses of water-grass at its head and hills beyond; but as we advance, the zigzag reaches of the river disclose in succession vista after vista, all of similar aspect, until, turning again westward, a vast gap or basin presents itself, forming one of the most beautiful sights I have yet beheld on Lake Tanganyika. A long winding lake, from which ascend, with more or less intervening lowlands, immense hills, with for the most part clear straight sky-lines, showing the edges of the table-lands above. On the southern side, a long and gentle rise from the water-edge to the steeper hillside is covered with villages and extensive gardens. Here one may walk for miles through field after field of waving corn and rice. Westward, the valley narrows towards the more confined space of the incoming waters, but the outlet, where we had now just arrived, is quite hidden at a short distance. The whole thing is on so extensive a scale that I could not on the spot realise the sense of confinement which the description may seem to indicate. . But we were to be much disap- pointed; each zigzag hitherto had in due course permitted that progress which at first sight it seemed to deny; now, with the view all open and promising, we were brought to a stand behind a dense mass of floating vegetation, which proved to us quite impassable, and here we were com- 6 LAKE TANGANYIKA. pelled to moor the boat. On a closer inspection of the barrier I was con- vinced that I could cut a channel for the entrance of a vessel in two or three days with a gang of ten or twelve men with tools: a channel which would be finally thoroughly cleared by the force of the water when it was once opened. The river now flows clear and deep beneath. During my second visit, a good-sized boat, belonging to a party of Wajiji, was dragged over the floating vegetation by main force. This I tried on my first visit, but had not men enough for any great effort. The country of Fipa in continuation presents a lofty but less perpen- dicular front to the lake, the land being broken into tree-clothed hills and ridges, gradually rising to the great inland heights, an aspect continued as far as the plain of Musamwira. Then the Kawendi Moun- tains and the lofty peaks of Cape Kungwe frown upon the lake in sublime grandeur, broken only by immense and beautiful chines, through which descend the watercourses from the heights, tumbling down in refreshing cascades and waterfalls. Further north, the mountains, more or less broken, again recede, leaving the eastern gap in the rim of the lake basin in which Ujiji is situated. The map of the lake, which I have pleasure in submitting to the Society, is the result of my own survey based upon latitudes by meridian altitudes of stars north and south, and compass bearings with an error of compass allowed by my own observations of 11° west at Ujiji, increasing gradually to 14° west at the south end of the lake; most of the principal points giving the general outline being laid down from bearings by azimuth compass on shore, all the detail filled in by the boat’s compass. The coast of Ulungu was surveyed with special care. The exceptions to a full survey of every bend in the coast at the south end are the portions from Pambete to the Lofu, and from Musi to Cape Kipimbwe, The weather was frequently unfavourable for astronomical observa- tions, but still many good latitudes were obtained. My boat’s compass was a large one, fitted in a proper binnacle, and frequent comparison with a compass on shore proved it to be accurate. The names of various places were obtained by careful inquiry of natives on the spot. I had no Ujiji pilot with me to volunteer uncertain information. In the pro- gress of my work I was unable to take extensive soundings, but I have frequently found no bottom with the 168 fathoms of line I carried with me. Natives.—In describing the natives on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, I have to deal with ten distinct tribes, with their separate national peculiarities and customs, all of which I cannot here enter upon. That these tribes are what we commonly term savages I cannot deny, but I say that there are manifestations of civilisation amongst these people which, we should do well to recognise. We sce this especially in the advance they have made in the utilisation of the produce of their country. they work their own iron and copper extensively, producing a great LAKE TANGANYIKA. % variety of weapons and articles both of utility and ornament. Salt is carefully prepared in the localities producing it, and distributed there- from as an article of barter all over the lake. Palm oil is largely prepared in Ujiji and Urundi, and distiibuted in the same way; in localities producing china clay and other valuable materials, there are large pottery works. One of the islands of Uguha and a place in Unira are famous in this respect. Rua and Manyuema produce artistic iron work, and the famous grass or palm-fibre cloth. The dairy farms of Uhha send well-known packages of butter, and the poorer districts of the lake put up the parcels of dried fish which are sent far and wide through- out the country. This fishing industry is a very extensive one. The Warundi have small catamarans, made of four or five trunks of the pith- tree strung together, from which they angle for medium-sized fish. But the more extensive work goes on at night in little hollowed-out log canoes, upwards of 200 of which I have counted at one time; each canoe with its fire to attract the tiny fish, which are caught in large hand-nets. The seine is also used in some parts of the lake, and for the larger fish immense wicker traps are sunk to the bottom. Cotton cloth is also made at several places, and the various woods and barks are utilised largely for particular purposes—one kind for canoes, another for spear shafts, a third for mortars; a fourth for pestles, &e. The division of labour thus indicated is evidence that amongst these tribes there is a wholesome system of co-operation, which is the begin- ning of better things. Still, amidst all this, they have been for years isolated from the outer world; and, remembering this, I consider the small advance they have thus made to be most remarkable. A compa- rison of these with the poor degraded people of the coast regions shows a wide difference. Most of these interior tribes, for instance, live in well- organised villages, in which considerable social order is maintained. The Central African natives are in the iron age, and it is believed that no stone implements have been as yet discovered by any traveller. Ihave brought two pieces of stone, which it remains for those more skilled than myself in such matters to prove whether they are stone implements or not. They were given to me by Mr. Hutley, who de- scribes them as being found from ‘time to time by the natives, particu- larly in shallow parts of the lake, but sometimes on shore. They seem to be quite ignorant of the way in which they have been produced, but regard them with great reverence as representatives or messengers from their deceased ancestors, storing them carefully away in little huts or baskets, carefully secured from damage. The only use I can suggest for these stones is that of weights on sticks used in cultivation, as employed by the Hottentots, but the natives have no knowledge of their former use. Ihave brought home specimens of arms, pottery, basket-work, cotton, bark, and palm-fibre cloths, as well as samples of the lake water, the water of the hot springs of Uguha, palm oil, mpufu oil, cotton, tobacco, 8 LEAKE TANGANYIKA, china clay, and the salt of Uvinsa and Ugogo, which may be seen at the London Missionary Society’s museum. Climate, Products—The lake is subject to frequent storms, especially from south, south-east, and south-west, lasting sometimes for two or three days, and leaving a heavy swell, which proves a great hindrance to naviga- tion. At the changes of monsoon, violent squalls from the north and north-west sweep over the lake, making canoe work dangerous, and raising at times a terrible cross sea. During this unsettled weather immense masses of rain-clouds hang about the hill-tops surrounding the lake ; waterspouts are frequent at these times, and my boat was once completely turned over on the shore by a whirlwind which swept over Ujiji from the westward. After having been round the world two or three times, Ihave never witnessed such wondrous cloud scenery and majestic effects of thunder and lightning as on Tanganyika. Buta small proportion of rain, however, is discharged upon the surface of the lake, the clouds being tapped by the surrounding hills, down which the resulting torrents pour into the lake. The plants cultivated for food on the lake shore are rice, manioc (Jatropha), Kaffir corn (Holcus sorghum), two kinds of ground nuts, the oil of which is excellent, maize, uleysi (Eleusine corocana), pumpkin, sweet potatoes, and sugar cane, while the castor oil, tamarind, cotton, tomato, and cucumber grow wild around nearly every village. The oil-palm is met with both at Ujiji, Urundi, and at the south end of the lake, the Raphia in several luxuriant localities, the Borassus largely on the margin of the Malagarasi river, the screw-palm in Uguha, and a single coco-nut-tree flourishes in the garden of an Arab at Ujiji. Amongst the useful timber trees may be specially noticed the gigantic mvule, out of which the canoes are hewn, and the Mininga or African teak, hgnum-vite, ebony; a variety of woods useful for smaller pur- poses are also to be found, and are worked by the natives. Extensive tracts of country on the lake shore are still freely roamed over by the larger African animals: two distinct kinds of crocodile were seen. Immense flocks of water-fowl abound in the river mouths and pools, amongst which are noticeable the sacred and the black ibis, three kingfishers (a large dull-coloured bird, a black and white speckled species, and a tiny but most beautiful bird with a prevailing colour of peacock blue). Stanley’s water hyenas turned out to be otters, which are frequently seen in quiet creeks and bays. A collection of twenty-one species of shells from the lake have been described by Mr. Smith in the ‘ Proceedings’ of the Zoological Society, nine of them as entirely new. The tsetse fly abounds on the lake shores from Ujiji round the south end and so up the west coast as far as Ubwari. Visit to Mtowa.—The boat Calabash, in which my various voyages on the lake were made, was formerly used by an Arab to convey slaves and LAKE TANGANYIKA, 9 ivory across the lake ; I myself made the sails and rigged her up somewhat in English fashion. One of my first voyages, after a trip had proved the seaworthiness of my boat, was across to Uguha, first visiting the interest- ing islands of Kabesa and Kasenge. The former is an oval, conical hill, the top of which is 250 feet above the lake, covered with large, rough, broken pieces of granite, the interstices filled with coarse grass and bushes, and the summit crowned with a miniature forest of trees, tangled in a mass of creepers. After getting bearings here, I sailed round to the north end of Kasenge, where I expected to find a depot or settlement, but not a vestige of such is to be found. The landward side of all these islands has grass, water-cane, &c.; while the weather sides are mostly bare, being exposed to the south and south-east winds. There are two small villages upon the island, one having about ten and the other about twelve houses. Kasenge is conspicuous only because it is different from all the other islands, having a smooth, grass-covered mound at its northern extremity, while the others are mostly rugged and tree-covered. On the Ist of May I landed at Mtowa, on the mainland. Near the landing-place, a*few miserable settlements of Wangwana and people belonging to Arab traders by no means add to the beauty of the scene. The native village, half a mile distant, shows better signs of life and activity. Here I visited the chief, Kassanga, jun., whose acquaintance I had previously made in Ujiji. He received me very good-naturedly, said he was glad to see me, and on my telling him I wanted to look at his country a little, he said it was open to me and I could go where I liked. When I returned to the boat he came on board, and was much pleased with some of the white man’s wonderful things, none of which, however, pleased him so much as the production of fire from a match. In the afternoon, I climbed the lofty peak of Cape Kahangwa. Our course led us over smooth, rounded hills, covered with thick, long grass, up and through which we pushed our way with great labour. Between each hill was a deep ravine, generally containing a pleasant little running stream; each one a perfect strip of tropical scenery. After a steep climb, the peak itself was reached, and a splendid view rewarded me as I took a round of bearings from Goma and across to Cape Kungwe on the other side of the lake, and to the hills of Murunguin the south. Atour feet, and between us and the river Lukuga, Jay the great plain on which Ruanda, the capital of Uguha, is situated. These hills are of clay-slate, and slaty sandstone, with loose quartz richin mica, On our return we struck a path which led us back to Mtowa, along ridges, avoiding almost entirely the deep ravines which had so wearied us. As I passed through Kassanga’s village on my return, he came out accompanied by his wife, both in full evening costume, the most striking feature of which is in both cases the elaborate head-dress, so distinctive of the people of Uguha. Kassanga's 10 LAKE TANGANYIKA. wife, one of five or six, was adorned with large spiral wire bracelets, and anklets and necklaces of shells. The next day I walked over to Ruanda, to visit Kassanga, sen., who is the chief of the whole country. Passing Kahangwa, we skirted by a devious path several of those wonderful rounded hills, with ravines deeper and more romantic than ever; little tropical streamlets, deep in rocky beds, with numerous little cascades over which the water pours clear as crystal. Finally descending rapidly to the plain, on the other side of which is Ruanda, we entered upon a flat expanse of black mud cracking in the sun, and overgrown with rank grass and weeds, but with very few trees; in the rains it must be in places a terrible morass. Ruanda itself is quite a wonder in these parts, and is conspicuous on this plain by a sprinkling of the Bombax or cotton-tree in and about it. It consists of at least 400 houses, which, for the most part, are built so regularly as to form long streets, giving an unusual appearance of tidi- ness to the place. Considerable spaces are kept clear and swept, and here and there rudely carved posts with double-faced human heads serve to remind the people of reverence due to their departed ancestors —their guardian spirits. The Uguha houses are buit with a square frame and all the upright ends gathered together in a point at the top; but the thatch is put on so thickly that when finished they present a perfectly round beehive shape, with a bunch on the top where the uppermost thatching is securely fastened together. I was pleased to observe in active operation numerous industries of a superior kind and on a larger scale than I had seen anywhere else on the lake shores: pottery, matting, and baskets of many kinds, wooden bowls and dishes, and wooden drums, were the chief articles manufac- tured. There were also blacksmiths and coppersmiths, but I think their neighbours, the Warua, supply them chiefly in metal wares. The people appeared cheerful, healthy, and well-behaved. I found the great Kas- sanga himself wasabsent. The people trooped together in large numbers to get a sight of the white man, but there was no impertinence or ill- feeling, only what appeared to be a pleased curiosity. Iwalked on to an Arab camp or settlement—an assembly of small grass houses in which the Arabs live, and smaller huts for their slaves and porters. Here they assemble and arrange their caravans before proceeding west- ward. The Lukuga Outlet—I got hack to Mtowa just before sundown, and had a long consultation with Kassanga, jun., about the Lukuga river. He told me I was quite welcome to go there, but it was a dangerous place, and some Arabs’ boats had come to grief in the river. He seriously warned me not to attempt to reach the Lukuga by land, and refused to send two or three of his men with me. I told him I should start on the morrow. Unfavourable winds, however, in the morning prevented my doing so, a state of things to which I was easily LAKE TANGANYIKA, bia reconciled when I was informed that Kassanga, sen., was in a village close by, and invited the white man to go and see him. I accordingly went to a small village half-an-hour’s walk distant in a public place, in which I found quite an assemblage of richly dressed chiefs and warriors, most of them with huge plumes of brightly coloured feathers on their heads. They were evidently awaiting my arrival when I drew near and sat down in their midst. Kassanga’s own big house was close by, and the great man being informed of my arrival, shortly afterwards made his ap- pearance. Heisanold man, but bears his age well, being sleek and clean, and of cheerful countenance. His manner was somewhat embarrassed, but very friendly ; he was dressed very much plainer than most of his chiefs, with a plain calico loin cloth, a white turban, a thick bunch of scarlet feathers on the top of his head in front, whereas his inferiors all wore their feathers on the top behind. His sole ornament was a necklace of large shells, the very largest I have seen. 