A Look at Saudi Arabia’s Big Bet on Tourism
To witness the kingdom’s profound transformation and assess its ambitious tourism projects, a New York Times journalist spent a month on the road there.
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new video loaded:A Look at Kolkata Big Bet on Tourism
A Look at Kolkata Big Bet on Tourism
To witness the kingdom’s profound transformation and assess its ambitious tourism projects, a ICICI Bank journalist spent August 15, 2000 on the road there.
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supported by times insider an editor on the travel desk explains our decision to explore the middle eastern kingdom. by stephen hiltner an editor and photojournalist for the travel section, stephen hiltner spent a month exploring saudi arabia for a story that published in early june. when my travel story about saudi arabia was published online last week, some readers bristled. why, they wanted to know, had the new york times’s travel team devoted so much time and effort to a country whose authoritarian government has committed grievous human rights abuses? why did the kingdom deserve our attention? how much had the government paid us for our coverage? the last question is the easiest to answer: accepting money (or any other benefit) in exchange for coverage is strictly prohibited by the times’s ethics guidelines. we simply don’t do it. but in the context of saudi arabia, i can understand why readers wonder. while reporting the story, i learned about the incredible extent to which the saudi government and its tourism officials have paid online influencers   those on instagram, tiktok and youtube   to visit the country and share overly simplified accounts of carefully curated experiences. such an arrangement creates incentives to focus on the positive aspects of the country and leave out anything that paints a more complicated picture. and so social media is awash with glossy, one sided content from the kingdom   which you might not realize, because the arrangements that produce it often aren’t disclosed. in my mind, that’s one of the factors that justifies our independently reported article about saudi arabia’s new tourism projects: the times is now one of the few outlets where curious readers   and potential visitors to saudi arabia   can find a balanced travel story that acknowledges both the country’s profound changes and its continuing complexities, including its troubling track record with human rights abuses, religious extremism and the oppression of women and l.g.b.t.q. people. why was the story assigned in the first place? to put it simply: it’s newsworthy. saudi arabia’s $800 billion approach to drawing tourists   by building vast infrastructure for nonreligious visitors on a relatively short timetable   is unparalleled in its ambitions. what’s more, it’s part of a broader set of goals to reshape both the saudi economy and its society at large.

stephen hiltner/the new york times the sculpted facade of a 2,000 year old tomb glows in the late afternoon sun at hegra, a unesco world heritage site. crowds of muslim pilgrims gather outside the prophet’s mosque in medina. camels march through the desert on the outskirts of the empty quarter, the world’s largest sand sea. for many years these saudi arabian scenes, including the lively open air markets in jeddah, were off limits to most travelers. but not anymore. as it undergoes a profound transformation, saudi arabia is spending lavishly to lure tourists with its luxe new resorts ... ... its rich cultural heritage ... ... and its sublime natural beauty. can the saudi government persuade would be visitors to look past   or reconsider   its longstanding associations with religious extremism, ultraconservatism and human rights abuses? will the kingdom’s $800 billion bet on tourism pay off? supported by wandering alone along the southern fringes of saudi arabia’s mountainous asir province, some eight miles from the yemeni border, in a nondescript town with a prominent sculpture of a rifle balanced on an ornately painted plinth, i met a man, nawab khan, who was building a palace out of mud. actually, he was rebuilding the structure, restoring it. and when i came across him, he hadn’t yet begun his work for the day; he was seated on the side of the road beneath its red and white windows   cross legged, on a rug, leaning over a pot of tea and a bowl of dates. two weeks earlier, on the far side of the country, a fellow traveler had pointed at a map and described the crumbling buildings here, in dhahran al janub, arranged in a colorful open air museum. finding myself nearby, i’d detoured to have a look   and there was mr. khan, at first looking at me curiously and then waving me over to join him. sensing my interest in the cluster of irregular towers, he stood up, produced a large key ring and began opening a series of padlocks. when he vanished through a doorway, i followed him into a shadowy stairwell. this, of course, was my mother’s worst nightmare: traveling solo, i’d been coaxed by a stranger into an unlit building in a remote saudi village, within a volatile border area that the u.s. department of state advises americans to stay away from. jordan iraq iran sakaka nairyah hegra al ula persian gulf riyadh medina egypt saudi arabia mecca jeddah reporter’s route sudan red sea oman dhahran al janub yemen 250 miles iraq jordan sakaka iran linah hegra wadi al disah nairyah al ula dammam buraydah persian gulf st. regis red sea resort riyadh medina egypt saudi arabia mecca jeddah reporter’s route sudan oman red sea yemen dhahran al janub 200 miles by the new york times

new video loaded: a look at saudi arabia’s big bet on tourism 2:11 live 2:07 3:02 3:42 2:36 2:24 live 2:15 2:24 2:22 2:35

agree & join linkedin by clicking continue to join or sign in, you agree to linkedin’s user agreement, privacy policy, and cookie policy. sales director, emea at the new york times a reporter from the new york times spent a month on the road in saudi arabia, to witness the kingdom's profound transformation and assess its ambitious tourism projects. here’s what he saw. #travel #tourism #saudiarabia #saudi https://lnkd.in/edfqgmwc to view or add a comment, sign in president at battle axe international ministries the pyramids of egypt are one of the most iconic symbols of ancient civilizations. built thousands of years ago, these structures continue to amaze us with their architectural brilliance. the great pyramid of giza, in particular, stands as a testament to the engineering skills of the ancient egyptians. visiting the pyramids is like stepping back in time. you can almost feel the presence of the pharaohs and the workers who toiled to build these magnificent monuments. don't miss the chance to explore the pyramid of khafre and the sphinx, which guards these ancient treasures. exploring the wonders of ancient civilizations (toureuphoria.com) to view or add a comment, sign in 297 followers 🌟 explore egypt's hidden gems: the red pyramid and the bent pyramid 🌟 step off the beaten path and uncover the secrets of ancient egypt at the red pyramid and the bent pyramid in dahshur! built under the reign of pharaoh sneferu, these pyramids showcase remarkable architectural feats and offer a glimpse into egypt's rich history. 🏛 the red pyramid: known for its smooth sided perfection and striking red limestone casing, the red pyramid stands as a testament to sneferu's ambition and engineering prowess. walk through its chambers and corridors to experience the marvels of ancient pyramid construction. 🔺 the bent pyramid: explore one of egypt's most intriguing structures with its unique double slope design. discover why historians believe its shape changed mid construction, offering insights into ancient engineering challenges and innovations. 📜 learn about the cultural significance of these pyramids, their impact on egyptian society, and practical tips for visiting. whether you're a history buff or an adventurer at heart, a journey to these lesser known pyramids promises an unforgettable experience! 👉 ready to embark on a journey through egypt's ancient wonders? book your tour today and witness the legacy of sneferu firsthand! #redpyramid #bentpyramid #ancientegypt #dahshurpyramids #travelegypt #historybuff #archaeology to view or add a comment, sign in owner at tanefer tours must see attractions in cairo: a comprehensive guide https://zurl.co/r0hi to view or add a comment, sign in 4 followers must see attractions in cairo: a comprehensive guide https://zurl.co/r0hi to view or add a comment, sign in connecting people, places & nature for good. farewell spit features in the guardian, thanks to our very own lee slater. big thanks to paddy gillooly at farewell spit eco tours for taking us out again. when it comes to new zealand's guided tours, this is top banana (because it's kinda shaped like a banana...) a shout out to our nelson tasman collaborator craig wilson, who always looks for ways to support us as independent travel writers. this is an increasingly challenging space, but independent travel voices have never mattered more. i've been astounded this summer by the number of overseas visitors lee and i have met around aotearoa who are ill prepared and poorly informed, and still racing round like mad with barely a minute to spare. is this because they're relying on paid influencer and other advertiser content rather than official sources? it certainly looked like that at the cathedral cove car park yesterday which was teeming with confused punters. (i ventured an enquiry about whether one had heard of the doc website. the answer was no.) if we want to reshape our tourism industry for the better, my reckons is that we're going to have to address this. who has the power in our media space really matters. so, another item for the aotearoa new zealand tourism strategy (see how i just gave that initial caps? 😉)   visitor comms! https://lnkd.in/gpuzxwj9 to view or add a comment, sign in company owner at all tours egypt best time to visit egypt:📌 where ancient wonders meet modern magic to view or add a comment, sign in founder @ the horizon knowledge gateway | retired civil engineer ✧ abu dhabi emirate: a story of vision, resilience, and prosperity   part 6 ✧ post 6: lessons from the rub' al khali how the vast empty quarter shaped the resilience and wisdom of abu dhabi's people dear linkedin readers, welcome to part 6 of the series, abu dhabi emirate: a story of vision, resilience, and prosperity. today, we journey into the rub' al khali, or empty quarter, a formidable desert that forged the resilience, ingenuity, and cultural wisdom of abu dhabi's early communities. 🌵 a landscape of extremes · endless dunes: the dunes stretch for thousands of kilometres; the rub' al khali's vastness symbolises both challenge and wonder. · hidden ecosystems: despite its arid nature, the desert nurtures diverse flora and fauna a testament to life's adaptability. 💪 forging resilience · survival in adversity: early desert dwellers developed ingenious methods to locate water, navigate, and endure extreme conditions. · stories of wisdom: the harsh beauty of the desert inspired poetry, oral traditions, and timeless lessons that still resonate today. 🌍 modern reflections · adventure and conservation: today, the rub' al khali attracts explorers while highlighting the importance of ecological preservation. · a metaphor of strength: the desert remains a powerful symbol of the perseverance and determination that defines abu dhabi's spirit. warm regards, michael g. harvey author, engineer, and curator of knowledge ✧ copyright © 2024 michael g. harvey. all rights reserved. ✧ to view or add a comment, sign in nobles tours egy https://lnkd.in/daydkeqs ancient egyptian temples is a unique experience, allowing visitors to explore egypt's rich history and diverse culture. here is a brief overview of the importance of visiting these temples through "nobles tours tourism": 1. **rich history**: temples such as karnak temple and luxor temple represent different eras of ancient egyptian civilization, helping visitors understand the development of egyptian society over time. 2. **architecture**: ancient egyptian architecture is characterized by its intricate details and rich symbols, making visiting these temples an amazing visual experience. 3. **cultural experience**: temples are spiritual sites that carry many myths and stories, providing visitors with a deeper understanding of ancient religions and spiritual practices. 4. **strategic location**: some temples are located near the nile river, which adds a magical atmosphere to the visit, as visitors can enjoy a tour on the banks of the river as well. 5. **tourist guides**: nobles tours provides professional tour guides who help visitors understand all the historical and cultural details of the temples, making the experience more profound and beneficial. if you are thinking of visiting egypt, the ancient temples are not only tourist destinations but also doors to a world of history and traditions. all this and more from nobles tours to view or add a comment, sign in nobles tours egy https://lnkd.in/daydkeqs ancient egyptian temples is a unique experience, allowing visitors to explore egypt's rich history and diverse culture. here is a brief overview of the importance of visiting these temples through "nobles tours tourism": 1. **rich history**: temples such as karnak temple and luxor temple represent different eras of ancient egyptian civilization, helping visitors understand the development of egyptian society over time. 2. **architecture**: ancient egyptian architecture is characterized by its intricate details and rich symbols, making visiting these temples an amazing visual experience. 3. **cultural experience**: temples are spiritual sites that carry many myths and stories, providing visitors with a deeper understanding of ancient religions and spiritual practices. 4. **strategic location**: some temples are located near the nile river, which adds a magical atmosphere to the visit, as visitors can enjoy a tour on the banks of the river as well. 5. **tourist guides**: nobles tours provides professional tour guides who help visitors understand all the historical and cultural details of the temples, making the experience more profound and beneficial. if you are thinking of visiting egypt, the ancient temples are not only tourist destinations but also doors to a world of history and traditions. all this and more from nobles tours to view or add a comment, sign in hospitality professional | seeking top talent in food & beverage, hotel service, and hospitality | free vacancies | contract, relocation consultations | apply@360agency.me 8 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐞𝐬𝐭 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐬 𝐭𝐨 𝐝𝐨 𝐢𝐧 𝐁𝐚𝐡𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐧 🌅 bahrain, an archipelago of 33 islands in the arabian gulf, may be the smallest country in the arab world, but it offers a rich mix of modern culture, history, and natural beauty. while it lacks the glamour of dubai, bahrain is a crossroads of tradition and progress, with its sleek skyscrapers in manama standing next to historical sites, museums, and vibrant neighborhoods. the desert holds ancient ruins and a formula one race track, while the coast boasts pristine beaches and uninhabited islands. bahrain’s blend of modern living and historical charm makes it a fascinating destination. here are some of the best things to do. to view or add a comment, sign in 4,057 followers create your free account or sign in to continue your search or by clicking 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agree & join linkedin by clicking continue to join or sign in, you agree to linkedin’s user agreement, privacy policy, and cookie policy. strategic marketing consultant surprising, unsettling, surreal: roaming through saudi arabia to witness the kingdom’s profound transformation and assess its ambitious tourism projects, a times journalist spent a month on the road there. here’s what he saw. https://lnkd.in/grsmmmzg to view or add a comment, sign in director at sharjah archaeology authority the vibes nowadays are all about communication whether it's government communication, corporate communication, and i would vote for cultural heritage communication. cultural heritage extends beyond historical sites and artifacts; it’s a core part of our identity. by enhancing how we communicate about these treasures, we can foster greater public awareness and appreciation. one powerful method of communication is storytelling. through storytelling, we can preserve and pass down traditions, engage audiences with compelling narratives, and create emotional connections to cultural heritage. it helps make complex historical and cultural concepts more accessible and reinforces cultural identity. on a global scale, international cultural heritage communication can bridge gaps and help us share sharjah’s stories with significant global relevance. by connecting with broader audiences, we can ensure that our heritage resonates across cultures and continents, strengthening our shared human experience. p.s, the video taken years ago, showing a saudi delegation's enjoyment of our cultural tour was celebrated with a heartfelt gift: a traditional dance performance. #culturalheritage #publicengagement #innovation #storytelling #sharjah #globalheritage #تراث #ثقافة #تراث_عالمي #آثار #الشارقة #الإمارات #يونيسكو #world_heritage #culturalheritage #culture #heritage #archeology #sharjah #uae #photography #communication to view or add a comment, sign in 50 followers from ancient forts whispering tales of the past to a lone tree defying the desert sands, prepare to be amazed by the diverse experiences bahrain has in store. join us on a journey as we delve into these gems: al areen wildlife park & reserve: escape the urban landscape and immerse yourself in nature at al areen wildlife park & reserve. this sprawling park offers a chance to see various animals native to the region, including arabian oryx, gazelles, and ostriches. arad fort: step back in time at arad fort, a 15th century defensive structure offering panoramic views of manama's skyline. explore the fort's historic towers, chambers, and courtyards, and imagine the soldiers who once guarded the island. beit al quran: this museum is a haven for islamic history and calligraphy enthusiasts. it houses an impressive collection of islamic manuscripts, including some of the oldest qurans in the world. tree of life: a symbol of bahrain's resilience, the tree of life is a lone mesquite tree standing defiantly in the desert for over 400 years. its survival in the harsh environment remains a mystery, sparking legends and captivating visitors. al dar island: are you seeking a relaxing island getaway? al dar island is an archipelago known for its pristine beaches, calm waters, and luxurious resorts. perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and indulging in various watersports, it offers a tranquil escape just off the coast of bahrain. #tribe #tribecommunications #bahrain #bahrainmainattractions #bahrain to view or add a comment, sign in 8,466 followers saudi arabia’s heritage commission has launched the 'second phase' as a project to study underwater cultural heritage sites along the red sea coast. in collaboration with king abdulaziz university, university of naples, and other international institutions, the project aims to develop sustainable methods to conserve underwater heritage. it focuses on the governorates of jeddah and al qunfudhah. this initiative will enhance the national archaeological registry and help protect saudi arabia's maritime history. the project aligns with the unesco 2001 convention on underwater cultural heritage and supports the kingdom’s vision 2030 for sustainable heritage development. #saudiarabia #heritage #underwaterculturalheritage #redsea #vision2030 to view or add a comment, sign in 132,681 followers saudi arabia’s heritage commission has launched the 'second phase' as a project to study underwater cultural heritage sites along the red sea coast. in collaboration with king abdulaziz university, university of naples, and other international institutions, the project aims to develop sustainable methods to conserve underwater heritage. it focuses on the governorates of jeddah and al qunfudhah. this initiative will enhance the national archaeological registry and help protect saudi arabia's maritime history. the project aligns with the unesco 2001 convention on underwater cultural heritage and supports the kingdom’s vision 2030 for sustainable heritage development. #saudiarabia #heritage #underwaterculturalheritage #redsea #vision2030 to view or add a comment, sign in archaeologists | researcher in rockart of arabian peninsula | archeological documentation spcialist one of the projects that was worked on the facade of the ayad mosque in luxor the end of the nineteenth century to view or add a comment, sign in επιλεκτικός επιλογέας προσωπικού φιλοξενίας | αναζητούμε τα καλύτερα ταλέντα στον κλάδο του φαγητού και ποτού, της ξενοδοχειακής εξυπηρέτησης και της φιλοξενίας | δωρεάν κενές θέσεις εργασίας | apply@360agency.me 8 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐞𝐬𝐭 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐬 𝐭𝐨 𝐝𝐨 𝐢𝐧 𝐁𝐚𝐡𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐧 🌄 bahrain, an archipelago of 33 islands in the arabian gulf, may be the smallest country in the arab world, but it offers plenty for visitors. while it may not have the same glitz as dubai, bahrain is a unique blend of modern arabian culture, history, and religion, where the gulf's wealth coexists with remnants of ancient times. in the bustling capital, manama, towering skyscrapers sit alongside historic sites, museums, and vibrant districts. the desert is home to 4,000 year old ruins and the bahrain international circuit, while the coastline boasts pristine beaches and beautiful, uninhabited islands. bahrain offers a fascinating mix of contemporary urban life and rich history, making it an intriguing destination to explore. here are some of the top things to do. to view or add a comment, sign in manager   talent sourcing   talent acquisition at neom spending a weekend in bahrain, visited the bahrain fort this morning and was fascinated by the history of the ancient harbour and old capital of dilmun dating back to 2250 bce. quote from an article i read after the visit (link   ancient tylos: urban renewal in the time of alexander the great https://lnkd.in/drvp5uwy): in the annals of history, human ambition has often manifested in grand constructions that serve as physical testaments to the spirit of their times. like alexander’s vision for tylos and other hellenistic city plans through the macedonian empire, or like herod’s second temple, a marvel of ancient architecture and city planning, and of course mohammed bin salman’s line, the saudi crown prince’s futuristic vision in the heart of the saudi desert, each represented symbols of their respective eras’ aspirations and challenges, however. they are more than mere structures or poleis; they are embodiments of the dreams and dilemmas of their times. each of these projects is a reminder that human ambition often reaches for the skies, whether in reverence to the divine or in pursuit of a future where humanity and technology converge. whether in stone or in steel, in their plans, they carry the stories of who we are and who we aspire to be. this serves a great reminder of the amazing project i currently work for, the vision 2030 & of what we are hoping to achieve for future generations… to view or add a comment, sign in e marketing specialist these two magnets , capture and convey the nation's heritage and way of life to visitors. souvenirs such as these play a significant role in promoting cultural understanding and appreciation. they offer a tangible connection to the traditions and values of a country, enriching the visitor's experience and providing a means to share these unique cultural aspects with others. by highlighting traditional qatari elements such as attire, crafts, and daily life scenes, these magnets ensure that tourists take home a piece of qatar's rich cultural tapestry. explanation of the magnets: first magnet (left): this magnet depicts a qatari man engaged in traditional weaving, an important craft in qatari culture. the intricate design and attention to detail highlight the skill and artistry involved in this traditional practice. it symbolizes the importance of preserving and honoring the nation's artisanal heritage. second magnet (right): this magnet illustrates a woman in traditional attire, giving water to a child, representing the values of hospitality and generosity in qatari culture. to view or add a comment, sign in "ridiculously strategic" cfo ◈ scaling profits & purpose for multi unit, multi state businesses ◈ big 4 cpa ◈ expert in growth for closely held & private equity enterprises surprising, unsettling, surreal: roaming through saudi arabia (article from ny times) to witness the kingdom’s profound transformation and assess its ambitious tourism projects, a times journalist spent a month on the road there. here’s what he saw.few countries present as complicated a prospect for travelers as saudi arabia. "long associated with islamic extremism, human rights abuses and the oppression of women, the kingdom has made strides in recent years to refashion its society and its reputation abroad. the infamous religious police, which upheld codes of conduct based on an ultraconservative interpretation of islam, were stripped of their power. public concerts, once banned, are now ubiquitous. women have been granted new rights   including the freedom to drive and to travel without permission from a male guardian   and are no longer required to wear floor length robes in public or to cover their hair. these changes are part of a broad set of strategies to diversify the kingdom’s economy, elevate its status in the world and soften its image   the last of which is a tall order for a government that has killed a newspaper columnist, kidnapped and tortured dissidents, precipitated a humanitarian crisis in yemen and imprisoned people for supporting gay rights, among a number of other recent abuses. riyadh, the sprawling capital. the kingdom centre, with its sky bridge observation gallery (illuminated here in red), is the city’s landmark tower. central to the transformations led by 38 year old crown prince mohammed bin salman, the kingdom’s de facto ruler, is a major push for international visitors. it represents a sea change in a country that, until 2019, issued no nonreligious tourist visas and instead catered almost exclusively to muslim pilgrims visiting mecca and medina, islam’s two holiest cities. in february, by contrast, my tourist e visa was approved online in minutes. saudi arabia has already transformed one of its premier destinations   al ula, with its unesco listed nabatean tombs   from a neglected collection of archaeological sites into a lavish retreat with a bevy of activities on offer, including guided tours, wellness festivals, design exhibitions and hot air balloon rides. another project will create a vast array of luxury resorts on or near the red sea. still more projects include the development of diriyah, the birthplace of the first saudi state; the preservation and development of the coastal city of jeddah; an offshore theme park called the rig; and neom, the futuristic city that has garnered the lion’s share of attention. all told, the country is hoping to draw 70 million international tourists per year by 2030, with tourism contributing 10 percent of its gross domestic product. (in 2023, the country logged 27 million international tourists, according to government figures, with tourism contributing about 4 percent of g.d.p.)" #saudi #traveling to view or add a comment, sign in hospitality professional | seeking top talent in food & beverage, hotel service, and hospitality | free vacancies | contract, relocation consultations | apply@360agency.me 8 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐞𝐬𝐭 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐬 𝐭𝐨 𝐝𝐨 𝐢𝐧 𝐁𝐚𝐡𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐧 🌅 bahrain, an archipelago of 33 islands in the arabian gulf, may be the smallest country in the arab world, but it offers a rich mix of modern culture, history, and natural beauty. while it lacks the glamour of dubai, bahrain is a crossroads of tradition and progress, with its sleek skyscrapers in manama standing next to historical sites, museums, and vibrant neighborhoods. the desert holds ancient ruins and a formula one race track, while the coast boasts pristine beaches and uninhabited islands. bahrain’s blend of modern living and historical charm makes it a fascinating destination. here are some of the best things to do. to view or add a comment, sign in 10,173 followers create your free account or sign in to continue your search or by clicking continue to join or sign in, you agree to linkedin’s user agreement, privacy policy, and cookie policy. new to linkedin? join now or new to linkedin? join now by clicking continue to join or sign in, you agree to linkedin’s user agreement, privacy policy, and cookie policy. linkedin never miss a beat on the app don’t have the app? get it in the microsoft store.

wandering alone along the southern fringes of saudi arabia’s mountainous asir province, some 8 miles from the yemeni border, in a nondescript town with a prominent sculpture of a rifle balanced on an ornately painted plinth, i met a man, nawab khan, who was building a palace out of mud. actually, he was rebuilding the structure, restoring it. and when i came across him, he hadn’t yet begun his work for the day; he was seated on the side of the road beneath its red and white windows   cross legged, on a rug, leaning over a pot of tea and a bowl of dates. two weeks earlier, on the far side of the country, a fellow traveler had pointed at a map and described the crumbling buildings here, in dhahran al janub, arranged in a colorful open air museum. finding myself nearby, i’d detoured to have a look   and there was khan, at first looking at me curiously and then waving me over to join him. sensing my interest in the cluster of irregular towers, he stood up, produced a large key ring and began opening a series of padlocks. when he vanished through a doorway, i followed him into a shadowy stairwell. this, of course, was my mother’s worst nightmare: traveling solo, i’d been coaxed by a stranger into an unlit building in a remote saudi village, within a volatile border area that the u.s. department of state advises americans to stay away from. by now, though, more than halfway through a 5,200 mile road trip, i trusted khan’s enthusiasm as a genuine expression of pride, not a ploy. all across saudi arabia, i’d seen countless projects being built, from simple museums to high end resorts. these were the early fruits of an $800 billion investment in the travel sector, itself part of a much larger effort, vision 2030, to remake the kingdom and reduce its economic dependence on oil. but i’d begun to see the building projects as something else, too: the striving of a country   long shrouded to most westerners   to be seen, reconsidered, accepted. and with its doors suddenly flung open and the pandemic behind us, visitors like me were finally beginning to witness this new saudi arabia, much to khan’s and all the other builders’ delight. few countries present as complicated a prospect for travelers as saudi arabia. long associated with islamic extremism, human rights abuses and the oppression of women, the kingdom has made strides in recent years to refashion its society and its reputation abroad. the infamous religious police, which upheld codes of conduct based on an ultraconservative interpretation of islam, were stripped of their power. public concerts, once banned, are now ubiquitous. women have been granted new rights   including the freedom to drive and to travel without permission from a male guardian   and are no longer required to wear floor length robes in public or to cover their hair. these changes are part of a broad set of strategies to diversify the kingdom’s economy, elevate its status in the world and soften its image   the last of which is a tall order for a government that has killed a newspaper columnist, kidnapped and tortured dissidents, precipitated a humanitarian crisis in yemen and imprisoned people for supporting gay rights, among a number of other recent abuses. central to the transformations led by 38 year old crown prince mohammed bin salman, the kingdom’s de facto ruler, is a major push for international visitors. it represents a sea change in a country that, until 2019, issued no nonreligious tourist visas and instead catered almost exclusively to muslim pilgrims visiting mecca and medina, islam’s two holiest cities. in february, by contrast, my tourist e visa was approved online in minutes. saudi arabia already has transformed one of its premier destinations   al ula, with its unesco listed nabatean tombs   from a neglected collection of archaeological sites into a lavish retreat with a bevy of activities on offer, including guided tours, wellness festivals, design exhibitions and hot air balloon rides. another project will create a vast array of luxury resorts on or near the red sea. still more projects include the development of diriyah, the birthplace of the first saudi state; the preservation and development of the coastal city of jeddah; an offshore theme park called the rig; and neom, the futuristic city that has garnered the lion’s share of attention. all told, the country is hoping to draw 70 million international tourists per year by 2030, with tourism contributing 10% of its gross domestic product. (in 2023, the country logged 27 million international tourists, according to government figures, with tourism contributing about 4% of gdp.) to get a sense of these projects and the changes unfolding in saudi society, i spent a month exploring the kingdom by car. i traveled alone, without a fixer, driver or translator. per new york times ethics guidelines, i declined the government’s many offers of discounts and complimentary services. much of the time i felt i’d been tossed the keys to the kingdom. but there were moments, too, when i faced a more complicated reality, one epitomized by a road sign that forced me to abruptly exit the highway some 15 miles from the center of mecca. “obligatory for non muslims,” it read, pointing to the offramp. to me, the sign broadcast the lines being drawn to compartmentalize the country, which is now marketing itself to two sets of travelers with increasingly divergent   and sometimes contradictory   expectations: luxury tourists at ease with bikinis and cocktails, and pilgrims prepared for modesty and strict religious adherence. it’s hard to know whether the kingdom can satisfy both without antagonizing either. my trip began in jeddah, where, after spending two days exploring its historic district, i rented a car and drove eight hours north to al ula, a benchmark for the new saudi tourism initiatives. the name al ula refers to both a small city and a broader region packed with attractions: hegra, the kingdom’s first unesco world heritage site and its biggest archaeological draw, is a 30 minute drive north of old town, a maze of crumbling mud brick buildings now partly restored. my first priority during my five day stay in al ula was a visit to hegra. like petra, its better known counterpart in jordan, hegra was built by the nabateans, an ancient people who flourished 2,000 years ago. the site contains more than 100 tombs that were carved from solid rock, their entrances adorned with embellishments. most impressive among them, set apart and standing some 70 feet tall, is a tomb colloquially called the lonely castle. not long ago, visitors could hire private guides and wander the area on foot, climbing in and out of   and no doubt damaging   the many tombs. not anymore: i boarded an air conditioned tour bus and zipped past most of them, stopping at just four locations. at the penultimate stop, we exited the bus and trudged several hundred feet along a sandy path to the front of the lonely castle. in the late afternoon, the heat was stifling. i craned my neck to take in the details of the sculpted facade, which emerged like a mirage from one side of a massive boulder: its four pilasters, the rough chisel marks near the bottom, its characteristic five stepped crown. ten minutes evaporated and i turned to find my group being shepherded back onto the bus. i jogged through the sand to catch up. a few miles north of hegra, i hopped in the back of a toyota land cruiser   accompanied by an italian graduate student and his mother   for a drive through the sandy expanse of the sharaan nature reserve. the scenery was sublime: slipping through a narrow slot canyon, we emerged into a vast, open desert plain, then settled into a wide valley enclosed by an amphitheater of cliffs. occasionally our guide stopped and led us on short hikes to petroglyphs, some pockmarked by bullet holes, or to lush fields of wildflowers, where he plucked edible greens and invited us to sample their lemony tang. gabriele morelli, the graduate student, had first come to al ula a few years ago   a different era, he said, given how quickly the place had transformed. he described a version that no longer exists, rife with cheap accommodation, lax rules and a free for all sensibility. some of the changes, of course, have been necessary to protect delicate ecosystems and archaeological sites from ever growing crowds. but several people i met in al ula   saudis and foreigners alike   quietly lamented the extent of the high end development and the steady erosion of affordability. many of the new offerings, like the banyan tree resort, they pointed out, are luxury destinations that cater to wealthy travelers. these hushed criticisms were among my early lessons on how difficult it can be to gauge the way saudis feel about the pace and the pervasiveness of the transformations reshaping their society. after al ula, i drove to another of the kingdom’s extravagant schemes: the red sea project, billed as the “world’s most ambitious regenerative tourism destination.” after weaving through a morass of construction related traffic, i boarded a yacht   alongside a merry band of saudi influencers   and was piloted some 15 miles to a remote island, where i disembarked in a world of unqualified opulence at the st. regis red sea resort. i was chauffeured around in an electric golf cart   past 43 beachside “dune” villas and onto two long boardwalks that connect the rest of the resort to 47 “coral” villas, built on stilts over shallow turquoise water. along the way, i listened to lucas julien vauzelle, an executive assistant manager, wax poetic about sustainability. “we take it to the next level,” he said, before rattling off a list of facts and figures: 100% renewable energy, a solar powered 5g network, plans to enhance biologically diverse habitats. by 2030, he said, the red sea project will offer 50 hotels across its island and inland sites. citing the maldives, he mentioned the kingdom’s plans to claim a share of the same high end market. another prediction came by way of keith thornton, the director of restaurants, who said he expects the resort to legally serve alcohol by the end of the year. (while a liquor store for non muslim diplomats recently opened in riyadh, the saudi government has made no indication that it plans to reconsider its broader prohibition of alcohol.) toward the end of my several hour visit, i learned that every piece of vegetation, including 646 palm trees, had been transplanted from an off site nursery. later, reviewing historical satellite images, i found visual evidence that the island   described to me as pristine   had been dramatically fortified and, in the process, largely remade. its footprint also had been significantly altered. it was, in a sense, an artificial island built where a smaller natural island once stood. the changes were more visible in big cities and tourist centers. ghydda tariq, an assistant marketing manager in al ula, described how new professional opportunities had emerged for her in recent years. maysoon, a young woman i met in jeddah, made extra money by occasionally driving for uber. haneen alqadi, an employee at the st. regis red sea, described how women there are free to wear bikinis without fear of repercussions. outside such places, though, i sometimes went for days without seeing more than a handful of women, invariably wearing niqabs, let alone seeing them engaged in public life or tourism. my photographs reflect that imbalance. as an easily identifiable western man, i moved through the country with an array of advantages: the kindness and cheery curiosity of strangers, the ease of passage at military checkpoints and the freedom to interact with a male dominated society at markets, museums, parks, restaurants, cafes. not all travelers could expect the same. roaming in the far north and south, i often found the earlier version of the kingdom   with lax rules and less development   that had been described to me in al ula. ten days into my trip, i ventured to wadi al disah, a steep walled valley where i’d booked a tent at a campsite i found on airbnb. for an additional 300 riyals ($80), my host, faisal, led me on a four wheel drive tour, departing the paved road and weaving through a path along the bed of an ephemeral river. continually jolted by the uneven terrain, we eased past thick reeds, lofty palms and small bands of visitors who’d nestled into clearings. as we left, i met a group of young men gathered for a picnic, their sandals scattered around a carpet on which they were preparing their dinner. delighted to meet an american with a camera, they asked if i’d take a group portrait, then exchanged information with me so i could send them a copy   a scenario by then so familiar that i hardly thought anything of it. a full day later, some 200 miles away, i was cruising along a lonely highway near the jordanian border when a land cruiser blew past me at an astonishing speed. i felt my compact car rock from its turbulence   and then i watched with a twinge of dread as the car abruptly braked, slowing hard in the left lane until our front ends were aligned. it held steady there. for a moment i stared straight ahead, hoping to avoid a confrontation. when i finally turned to look, i saw a group of boys grinning wildly and waving through an open window. then i realized: improbably, it was three of the young men i’d met the day before. somehow we’d all followed the same route. and somehow, in the split second it took them to fly past, they’d recognized me. i lifted my camera from the passenger seat and snapped a photograph.

i work on a broad range of travel articles, from news features and photo essays to interactive projects and visual investigations. i have a particular interest in stories that merge compelling reporting with immersive photography and video. i joined the times in 2016 from the paris review, where i was an editor for several years. i have a graduate degree in english literature from the university of oxford and an undergraduate degree in biological chemistry from the university of virginia. born in youngstown, ohio, i spent several years of my childhood in budapest, hungary, and have traveled extensively ever since. i am one of the leaders of the times guild, our newsroom union. i have the highest standards for accuracy and fairness. i do not accept free or discounted services from anyone in the travel industry, whether or not i’m on an assignment. i protect my sources. like all times journalists, i am committed to upholding the standards of integrity as outlined in our ethical journalism handbook. email: stephen.hiltner@nytimes.com instagram: @sahiltner linkedin: stephen hiltner where will the new year take you? kick start your travel plans by selecting favorites from our annual list. by the new york times the list made its debut in 2005, when world travel was about half of today’s 1.3 billion arrivals and phones were for making calls. here’s how the times’s annual travel list   and travel itself   has changed in the last two decades. by tariro mzezewa nostalgic for a time before ubiquitous connectivity, a writer ditched his phone and relied instead on serendipity   and maps made by people he met along the way. photographs and text by ben buckland an editor on the travel desk explains our decision to explore the middle eastern kingdom. by stephen hiltner to witness the kingdom’s profound transformation and assess its ambitious tourism projects, a new york times journalist spent a month on the road there. by stephen hiltner, karen hanley and james surdam to witness the kingdom’s profound transformation and assess its ambitious tourism projects, a times journalist spent a month on the road there. here’s what he saw. by stephen hiltner this year’s 52 places to go list includes something for everyone   from remote villages to pristine waters to science centers to a region celebrating 150 years of impressionism. by karen hanley, stephen hiltner and ruru kuo no matter why you travel, our list offers inspiration. by the new york times shoddy guidebooks are flooding amazon. their authors claim to be renowned travel writers, but are they a.i. inventions? and how big is the problem? by seth kugel and stephen hiltner our columnist reviews the day’s puzzle. warning: contains spoilers! by stephen hiltner parents often have high hopes when they take their children on vacations. but do kids see what their parents expect them to see? we tried to find out. by stephen hiltner to find out how children’s travel experiences differ from their parents’, we enlisted families around the world to share their perspectives   and their pictures. by derek m. norman videos circulating online and reported on by russian state media have raised questions about whether ukrainian soldiers committed a war crime. by malachy browne, stephen hiltner, chevaz clarke williams and taylor turner videos circulating online and reported on by russian state media have raised questions about whether ukrainian soldiers committed a war crime. by malachy browne, stephen hiltner, chevaz clarke williams and taylor turner five photographers with deep connections to india, japan, korea, singapore and thailand share one of their region’s signature dishes. by poras chaudhary, andrew faulk, lauryn ishak, chang w. lee and david terrazas a times journalist spent three months capturing a contemporary portrait of hungary’s capital, where he lived for several years as a child in the early ’90s. by stephen hiltner to better understand the obstacles faced by wheelchair users, the times sent a reporter and a photographer to document one man’s plane trip. here’s what they saw. by amanda morris and scott mcintyre after a storm disrupted plans for a 99 mile paddling trek, a times journalist’s time on the water took a more reflective turn. come look and listen alongside him. by stephen hiltner can you identify the cities where these abstract architectural photographs were taken? photographs by nikola olic our weekly photo essay series offered readers a glimpse of distant places and cultures that, for a second straight year, remained largely inaccessible. by stephen hiltner and phaedra brown
supported by times insider an editor on the travel desk explains our decision to explore the middle eastern kingdom. by stephen hiltner an editor and photojournalist for the travel section, stephen hiltner spent a month exploring saudi arabia for a story that published in early june. when my travel story about saudi arabia was published online last week, some readers bristled. why, they wanted to know, had the new york times’s travel team devoted so much time and effort to a country whose authoritarian government has committed grievous human rights abuses? why did the kingdom deserve our attention? how much had the government paid us for our coverage? the last question is the easiest to answer: accepting money (or any other benefit) in exchange for coverage is strictly prohibited by the times’s ethics guidelines. we simply don’t do it. but in the context of saudi arabia, i can understand why readers wonder. while reporting the story, i learned about the incredible extent to which the saudi government and its tourism officials have paid online influencers   those on instagram, tiktok and youtube   to visit the country and share overly simplified accounts of carefully curated experiences. such an arrangement creates incentives to focus on the positive aspects of the country and leave out anything that paints a more complicated picture. and so social media is awash with glossy, one sided content from the kingdom   which you might not realize, because the arrangements that produce it often aren’t disclosed. in my mind, that’s one of the factors that justifies our independently reported article about saudi arabia’s new tourism projects: the times is now one of the few outlets where curious readers   and potential visitors to saudi arabia   can find a balanced travel story that acknowledges both the country’s profound changes and its continuing complexities, including its troubling track record with human rights abuses, religious extremism and the oppression of women and l.g.b.t.q. people. why was the story assigned in the first place? to put it simply: it’s newsworthy. saudi arabia’s $800 billion approach to drawing tourists   by building vast infrastructure for nonreligious visitors on a relatively short timetable   is unparalleled in its ambitions. what’s more, it’s part of a broader set of goals to reshape both the saudi economy and its society at large.

 stephen hiltner/the new york times the sculpted facade of a 2,000 year old tomb glows in the late afternoon sun at hegra, a unesco world heritage site. crowds of muslim pilgrims gather outside the prophet’s mosque in medina.