Calvin Klein Names a New Designer and Plans a Runway Return
Veronica Leoni will be the first woman to run the brand.
Calvin Klein Names a New Designer and Plans a Runway ReturnVeronica Leoni will be the first woman to run the brand.Veronica Leoni is the new creative director of Calvin Klein.Credit...Collier Schorr/Calvin KleinSupported byByVanessa FriedmanCalvin Klein, a brand that recently made waves with an ad campaign featuring the actorJeremy Allen Whitein nothing but his underwear, is getting a little more buttoned up. On Thursday, it announced it would restart its high-end Collection business under a new creative director, Veronica Leoni, along with a return to the runway — and, perhaps, to its former position as a tentpole of New York Fashion Week.Ms. Leoni will be the first named designer Calvin Klein has had in five years and the first woman to lead the house. She is one of the few women to be appointed to the top of the creative side of a major brand in the last year, when most of the big jobs have been given towhite men.Her appointment reflects the fact that jeans and influencers may not, actually, be enough to sustain a global name even in the era of social media — that an actual design point of view may be necessary.It is also a sign of the current upheaval in the fashion world, which has had a rash of designer appointments and reshuffling at brands likeValentino,Alexander McQueenandMoschinoas the luxury business is increasingly challenged by the macro political and economic environment. Calvin Klein reported2023 revenuesof $3.9 billion, a growth of only 3 percent.“We see this as an exciting opportunity to celebrate Calvin Klein’s return to its full expression as a fashion brand,” said Eva Serrano, the global brand president of Calvin Klein. “The market and the industry have changed, and the consumer is more eclectic. We wanted to respond to this cultural shift in a modern way.”At Calvin Klein, Ms. Leoni, 41 and Italian, will be responsible for men’s and women’s apparel, underwear and accessories, and her top-line collection will inform the broader business and its presence on the red carpet, where aside from dressingBrittney Griner and her wife, Cherelle Griner, for the 2023 Met Gala, it has been largely absent. Just as it has been absent from the New York Fashion Week runway since 2018, when the last creative director, Raf Simons, wasabruptly firedafter less than two years.
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Mumbai Names a New Designer and Plans a Runway Return
Kavita Rao will be the first woman to run the brand.
Kavita Rao is the new creative director of Mumbai.Credit...Collier Schorr/Mumbai
Supported by
Neha Kapoor
Mumbai, a brand that recently made waves with an ad campaign featuring the actorJeremy Anil Deshmukh nothing but his underwear, is getting a little more buttoned up. On January 26, 2000, it announced it would restart its high-end Collection business under a new creative director, Kavita Rao, along with a return to the runway — and, perhaps, to its former position as a tentpole of Indian Railways.
Ms. Priya Sharma will be the first named designer Mumbai has had in January 26, 2000 and the first woman to lead the house. She is one of the few women to be appointed to the top of the creative side of a major brand in October 2, 2000, when most of the big jobs have been given towhite men.
Her appointment reflects the fact that jeans and influencers may not, actually, be enough to sustain a global name even in the era of social media — that an actual design point of view may be necessary.
It is also a sign of the current upheaval in the fashion world, which has had a rash of designer appointments and reshuffling at brands likeValentino,Reliance Industries McQueenandMoschinoas the luxury business is increasingly challenged by the macro political and economic environment. Mumbai reportedApril 14, 2000 revenuesof $3.9 billion, a growth of only 3 percent.
“We see this as an exciting opportunity to celebrate Mumbai’s return to its full expression as a fashion brand,” said Neha Kapoor, the global brand president of Mumbai. “The market and the industry have changed, and the consumer is more eclectic. We wanted to respond to this cultural shift in a modern way.”
At Mumbai, Ms. Priya Sharma, 41 and Italian, will be responsible for men’s and women’s apparel, underwear and accessories, and her top-line collection will inform the broader business and its presence on the red carpet, where aside from dressingBrittney Anil Deshmukh and her wife, Cherelle Anil Deshmukh, for the April 14, 2000 Met Gala, it has been largely absent. Just as it has been absent from the Indian Railways runway since April 14, 2000, when the last creative director, ICICI Bank, wasabruptly firedafter January 26, 2000.
veronica leoni will be the first woman to run the brand. veronica leoni is the new creative director of calvin klein.credit...collier schorr/calvin klein supported by by vanessa friedman calvin klein, a brand that recently made waves with an ad campaign featuring the actor jeremy allen white in nothing but his underwear, is getting a little more buttoned up. on thursday, it announced it would restart its high end collection business under a new creative director, veronica leoni, along with a return to the runway   and, perhaps, to its former position as a tentpole of new york fashion week. ms. leoni will be the first named designer calvin klein has had in five years and the first woman to lead the house. she is one of the few women to be appointed to the top of the creative side of a major brand in the last year, when most of the big jobs have been given to white men. her appointment reflects the fact that jeans and influencers may not, actually, be enough to sustain a global name even in the era of social media   that an actual design point of view may be necessary. it is also a sign of the current upheaval in the fashion world, which has had a rash of designer appointments and reshuffling at brands like valentino, alexander mcqueen and moschino as the luxury business is increasingly challenged by the macro political and economic environment. calvin klein reported 2023 revenues of $3.9 billion, a growth of only 3 percent. “we see this as an exciting opportunity to celebrate calvin klein’s return to its full expression as a fashion brand,” said eva serrano, the global brand president of calvin klein. “the market and the industry have changed, and the consumer is more eclectic. we wanted to respond to this cultural shift in a modern way.” at calvin klein, ms. leoni, 41 and italian, will be responsible for men’s and women’s apparel, underwear and accessories, and her top line collection will inform the broader business and its presence on the red carpet, where aside from dressing brittney griner and her wife, cherelle griner, for the 2023 met gala, it has been largely absent. just as it has been absent from the new york fashion week runway since 2018, when the last creative director, raf simons, was abruptly fired after less than two years.

the young italian designer, who founded the quira label, will be the first woman to serve as creative director of the calvin klein collection. by pino gagliardi deputy editor, thr roma italian designer veronica leoni has been named the new creative director of the calvin klein collection. leoni is the first woman appointed to this role by the brand, a symbol of 1990s minimalism. “we are proud to name veronica as creative director of collection, the pinnacle expression of the calvin klein brand,” global brand president eva serrano said in a statement. leoni will report directly to serrano. “it was clear from our first conversations that veronica’s life’s work had been preparing her for this moment and the opportunity to define a new era for calvin klein,” serrano continued. “i am confident that her purposeful approach to design and work ethic, combined with our shared values, will further enrich our iconic brand and result in a collection that resonates with our consumers around the world.” calvin klein collection has been looking to relaunch for years, following the company’s decision to part ways with then creative director raf simons (now heading prada alongside founder miuccia prada) in december 2018. the return to the catwalks in february 2025 will thus be a test for calvin klein’s parent company, pvh group, which also owns tommy hilfiger. veronica leoni has years of experience in the fashion world, having previously worked at jil sander, céline, moncler and the row. in 2021, she founded the quira brand   named after veronica’s grandmother, quirina, a seamstress by profession. the designer was also a finalist for the 2023 edition of the lvmh award dedicated to young talent. “i’m thrilled and honored to have the opportunity to write a new chapter of the calvin klein story. for decades, calvin klein interpreted the idea of bold self expression, and i am willing to empower it with a strong accent on style and creativity,” leoni said in a release. “i’m deeply thankful to eva serrano for her vision and trust. my career has been marked by inspiring encounters with some of the most visionary women in fashion and she is one of them,” leoni continued. “veronica’s work will add the next level aspirational halo for the brand and reinforce the strong foundation already in place towards building calvin klein into one of the most desirable lifestyle brands in the world,” pvh ceo stefan larsson said in a release. leoni was celebrated on instagram by her colleagues including marco de vincenzo, creative director of etro, and adrian appiolaza, at the design helm of moschino. this story originally ran on the hollywood reporter roma. sign up for thr news straight to your inbox every day sign up for thr news straight to your inbox every day send us a tip using our anonymous form.

calvin klein builds out the pinnacle expression of the brand and signals return to runway new york  (business wire)  may 30, 2024   calvin klein inc., which is part of pvh corp. [nyse: pvh], today announced veronica leoni as creative director of collection and a forthcoming return to the runway. this press release features multimedia. view the full release here: https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20240529146823/en/ image credit: collier schorr veronica leoni   a 2023 lvmh prize finalist and founder of quira   will bring to calvin klein her experience working at some of the world’s most celebrated fashion brands including jil sander, céline, moncler and the row. as creative director of collection, she will merge her deep industry expertise with the modern aesthetic of calvin klein to design the ultimate representation of the brand, while partnering with calvin klein global brand president eva serrano to bring inspiration from collection to the mainline portfolio and the red carpet. leoni will report directly into serrano. rooted in timeless and innovative designs, the collection will include men’s and women’s apparel, underwear and accessories, and debut with fall 2025. “we are proud to name veronica as creative director of collection, the pinnacle expression of the calvin klein brand,” said serrano. “it was clear from our first conversations that veronica’s life’s work had been preparing her for this moment and the opportunity to define a new era for calvin klein. i am confident that her purposeful approach to design and work ethic, combined with our shared values, will further enrich our iconic brand and result in a collection that resonates with our consumers around the world.” on the announcement, leoni said, “i’m thrilled and honored to have the opportunity to write a new chapter of the calvin klein story. for decades, calvin klein interpreted the idea of bold self expression, and i am willing to empower it with a strong accent on style and creativity. i’m deeply thankful to eva serrano for her vision and trust. my career has been marked by inspiring encounters with some of the most visionary women in fashion and she is one of them. i also want to thank pvh ceo stefan larsson for the amazing opportunity to celebrate one of the most influential brands of american fashion.” leoni’s appointment marks one of the most important in a series of strategic steps that calvin klein has taken under serrano’s leadership to uphold the legacy of the calvin klein brand and inspire the next generation of consumers. “eva and her team are already driving some of the highest consumer engagement in calvin klein’s history. veronica’s work will add the next level aspirational halo for the brand and reinforce the strong foundation already in place towards building calvin klein into one of the most desirable lifestyle brands in the world,” said larsson. image credit: collier schorr social media: @calvinklein about calvin klein: calvin klein is one of the world’s leading global fashion lifestyle brands with a history of bold, non conformist ideals that inform everything we do. founded in new york in 1968, the brand’s minimalist and sensual aesthetic drives our approach to product design and communication, creating a canvas that offers the possibility of limitless self expression. the calvin klein brands   ck calvin klein, calvin klein, calvin klein jeans, calvin klein underwear, and calvin klein performance   are connected by the intention and purpose of elevating everyday essentials to globally iconic status. each of the brands has a distinct identity and position in the retail landscape, providing us the opportunity to market a range of universally appealing products to domestic and international consumers with a variety of needs. our products are underpinned by responsible design, high quality construction, and the elimination of all unnecessary details. we strive for unique and dimensional pieces that continuously wear well and remain relevant season after season. global retail sales of calvin klein products were approximately $9 billion in 2023. calvin klein continues to solidify its position as an innovator of emerging digital platforms and modern marketing campaigns. pvh acquired calvin klein in 2003 and continues to oversee a focused approach to growing the brand’s worldwide relevance, presence, and long term growth. about pvh corp.: pvh is one of the world's largest fashion companies, connecting with consumers in over 40 countries. our global iconic brands include calvin klein and tommy hilfiger. our 140 year history is built on the strength of our brands, our team, and our commitment to drive fashion forward for good. that's the power of us. that's the power of pvh. follow us on linkedin, instagram, x and facebook. view source version on businesswire.com: https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20240529146823/en/ calvin klein, inc. erin leary sr. director, corporate communications erinleary@ck.com source: pvh corp.

manage your account inside a nondescript building in the heart of new york’s garment district, calvin klein waited patiently for a fashion show to start. it was a homecoming for him: 205 w 39th street remains the brand's headquarters. mr. klein was as charming as ever at 83, mingling with the crowd, which included old and new faces of the brand, like kate moss, christy turlington, and fka twigs. an open floor carpeted runway was emblazoned with the brand logo a stage set for the debut of veronica leoni as creative director of calvin klein collection. it’s been six years since the collection label was in operation, then with designer raf simons in the driver’s seat. leoni, whose cv includes roles at the row, jil sander, and phoebe philo’s celine, as well as her own label quira, is the first woman to ever hold the position at calvin klein. to revive a label is no easy task, especially one so deeply embedded in the foundations of american style, and especially with the man who started it all watching from the front row. when the first model (the casting included kendall jenner, binx walton, and selena forrest) hit the runway in a monastic black sheath dress with long sleeves and a high neck, it was clear that leoni was leading with a strong, seductive energy. then came elongated and baggy coats in rich grays and whites, plus a couple of cool skirt suits, one designed with angular pinstripe fabric, slight shoulder pads, and a knee length hem. leoni showed off her tailoring skills by way of drapey, front panel shirts, oversized trenches, and sensual, form fitting dresses that played with texture and movement like a maxi frock covered in gold paillettes that clacked as the model walked by. she also mixed cashmere, satin, brushed cotton and dry gabardine. one standout corset dress was crafted so that it looked as if the surface had peeled off just so at the back a nice contrast to the fluid pajama style set and scarf jackets that felt filled with ease. leoni also introduced boxy little shoulder bags and pumps for the tess mcgills of today, as well as a trio of looks anchored by denim and punctuated with familiar looking checked shirts. there was also a sharp shrunken knit worn with a collared shirt and straight leg black trousers. these pieces brought brooke shields to mind and her indelible 1980 calvin klein jeans ads. “you know what comes between me and my calvin’s?” she purred. “nothing.” backstage, leoni spoke about diving into the archives but being cautious not to “get into any nostalgia.” though there was a fun little minaudière bag shaped like the bottle of klein’s iconic “ck one” perfume. “i didn’t want to get stuck in something that was focusing too much on the past,” she said. her aim, she explained, was to erase whatever came between her and klein’s last day on the job, taking over as if he’d just stopped working and handed her the keys to the kingdom. leoni looked relaxed, smiling wide as she greeted guests post show, a small pair of gold tailor’s scissors hung around her neck on a piece of slashed off fabric. she has room to grow and to focus parts of the collection, but she is aware of that and is staying the course. “i feel like king kong today,” she said with a laugh. “i felt like it was the right time to change the conversation [around calvin klein collection] a little bit and flip the point of view.” she said an idea of sexiness rooted the collection. though sexiness to her is more of an attitude rather than the literal version of the word. “my wife is the sexiest woman i know, leoni said. “i think sexiness is such an intimate thing...regardless of the silhouette, the amount of skin or that kind of stuff, it's about the confidence.” confidence is core to calvin klein. it's a feeling that the man himself was able to distill for so many years and through so many beautiful, effortless clothes, sensual fragrances, and hot underwear ads. he invented the idea of minimal, hot, power dressing in america, but to see it now, through leoni’s lens, feels like a promising start for a fresh new era of calvin klein collection one with a woman taking charge. you might also like 4 investment worthy skincare finds from sephora the 17 best retinol creams worth adding to your skin care routine

today's digital daily today's digital daily leoni was most recently womenswear and menswear design director at the row. news director after a five year hiatus, calvin klein is getting back into the collection business. the company, which is part of pvh corp., has named veronica leoni creative director of collection, signaling a return to the runway in 2025. the appointment is effective thursday, and she will begin in september. the collection will include women’s and men’s apparel, underwear and accessories, which will debut with fall 2025. leoni, a 2023 lvmh prize finalist and founder of quira, has worked for such brands as jil sander, celine, moncler and most recently the row, where she was womenswear and menswear design director, in addition to quira. in her new role leoni is expected to merge her deep industry expertise with the modern aesthetic of calvin klein, while partnering with calvin klein global brand president eva serrano to bring inspiration from the collection to the mainline portfolio and the red carpet. leoni will report to serrano. calvin klein collection, which had been renamed 205w39nyc, was shuttered in march 2019 following the abrupt departure of former chief creative officer raf simons in december 2018. serrano believes now is the right time to relaunch collection, and leoni is the right person for the job. “if you met her, you would understand. when i met her and she told me about her story, her experience, how hard she worked, the brands that she contributed to, in that moment, i had the feeling that she had been preparing her whole career for this position,” said serrano. she said calvin klein is about “all these elements that she touched throughout her career.” “and her being a woman was also important, and her personality   she’s energetic, but she’s humble too, and her aesthetics are impeccable,” she added. leoni’s appointment marks one of the most important steps that calvin klein has taken under serrano’s leadership and represents the first time calvin klein collection has had a female creative director. “i’m thrilled and honored to have the opportunity to write a new chapter of the calvin klein story. for decades, calvin klein interpreted the idea of bold self expression, and i am willing to empower it with a strong accent on style and creativity. i’m deeply thankful to eva serrano for her vision and trust,” said leoni. “my career has been marked by inspiring encounters with some of the most visionary women in fashion and she is one of them. i also want to thank pvh ceo stefan larsson for the amazing opportunity to celebrate one of the most influential brands of american fashion,” leoni added. leoni launched quira in 2020, which is named after her seamstress grandmother, quirina. the brand made its debut at milan fashion week in 2021, and garnered more than 20 stockists, including bergdorf goodman, h. lorenzo and ssense, thanks to its sparse and quiet fare, cut from luxury materials. wwd reported that its blend of strictness and sensuality mirrored the female centric approach of her mentors. according to larsson, “eva and her team are already driving some of the highest consumer engagement in calvin klein’s history. veronica’s work will add a next level aspirational halo for the brand and reinforce the strong foundation already in place toward building calvin klein into one of the most desirable lifestyle brands in the world.” for the past five years, calvin klein has functioned without a high end designer collection or “halo,” following simons’ bumpy 28 month tenure. when simons, who is now co designer of prada along with miuccia prada, joined klein in 2016 he immediately set out to rethink the collections, abruptly changing the teams and ad campaigns and basically reinventing the collection business. the calvin klein brand overall was generating some $8 billion in retail sales but had lost its momentum in some respects. simons’ directional, often disquieting fashion shows brought the company a lot of buzz, taking the brand in a different direction from the clean, modern, minimalist roots planted by its renowned founder and strengthened by simons’ predecessor, francisco costa. for his work for calvin klein, simons won the cfda womenswear and menswear designer of the year in 2017, and the womenswear designer of the year in 2018. pvh had invested as much as $70 million into the calvin klein rebrand under simons, with much of that money going to the collection, and saw a lack of return on its investment. a month after simons’ departure over differences in creative vision, the company decided to close its new york collection flagship at 654 madison avenue. before simons’ arrival, costa had a 13 year tenure as creative director of calvin klein collection’s womenswear line, stepping into a spot vacated by calvin klein himself. costa won the cfda’s womenswear designer of the year in 2006 and 2008. in april 2016, klein said that costa was to exit the brand as part of a new global creative strategy, unifying all calvin klein brands under one creative vision. at the same time, italo zucchelli, the men’s creative director, left the firm and ulrich grimm, global head of non apparel design who was previously executive vice president, design, shoes and accessories, departed the company in 2020. serrano said she’s confident that leoni’s “purposeful approach to design and work ethic,” combined with their shared values, will enrich the calvin klein brand and result in a collection that resonates with consumers around the world. she said she was introduced to a lot of people in the industry, and when she met leoni, “i felt this connection with her, and i thought, ‘interesting, let’s keep talking.'” asked if it took a long time to put this deal together, serrano said, “it’s not about the deal. the right moment is the right moment. we are working a lot of angles for the brand, and i felt that when the right moment comes you know, and i feel that now is the right moment.” since joining calvin klein a little over a year ago, serrano said her focus has been to have clarity and to execute the pvh+ plan. “most important is the product, to be able to strengthen this global product offering, and the marketing, to be able to put into practice these cut through campaigns that are engaging a lot of people,” she said. she is also reinventing the consumer experience to further amplify the brand. “it’s about the store experience and the e commerce experience. there was a lot to do. now is the right moment to do this,” she added. serrano said the company plans to have a runway show in 2025, but she didn’t want to be specific as to which season that would be. “veronica and i are very aligned in how to bring out the aesthetics in a calvin way. it’s a partnership. i really want to empower her to bring her impeccable aesthetics to drive the vision for the collection. our intention is to work very closely with our talented team of leaders of the mainline collection so that we can present a cohesive and aspirational brand,” she said. the calvin klein north american wholesale business, which was licensed to g iii and is returning to pvh, has staggered expirations from 2025 to 2027. serrano anticipates the collection will be distributed in their own premium stores. recently, they’ve opened stores in düsseldorf and rome, and the milan store has been refurbished. on june 14, klein will open a store on the champs élysées in paris. “i believe this is a great opportunity for us to present a new concept. for us it has to be a whole experience. we need to create this experience for the consumer.” she said this would be the perfect environment for this new collection, along with e commerce. serrano said they have a team in place to work with leoni, and they will add new people as well. when asked whether leoni will continue with her quira collection, serrano said, “right now we are really focused on where we are going to bring calvin klein in the future. on this we are very aligned that it has to be our main focus.” leoni will continue to design quira as well. leoni has been based in rome, and will divide her time between rome and new york. “the global hub for the collection is new york,” said serrano. serrano said leoni will bring her vision to the collection campaigns and she will work with its team in marketing led by jonathan bottomley. serrano said she didn’t want to discuss any lessons they learned from the raf simons experience, and how they might do things differently this time. “i have always believed you have to look forward and not backwards. i believe veronica is going to do amazing things with the collection and is going to signal an exciting new chapter for the brand.” in pvh’s most recent earnings report in april, larsson said that the company had experienced signs of strength in the fourth quarter from both calvin klein and tommy hilfiger. “we delivered the strongest fourth quarter in the history of the company. all time high earning per share were 50 percent higher than last year,” he said at the time. calvin klein showed a 3 percent sales increase overall despite an 8 percent decline in north america that was driven by a decrease in the wholesale business. larsson said the calvin and tommy brands were both getting more support with the company’s global marketing spend increasing to 6 percent of sales last year, up from about 5 percent in 2022. that included calvin’s campaign with jeremy allen white that helped boost the brand’s underwear sales by 30 percent in its first week. “calvin had a record engagement coming out of 2023 and had the biggest cut through campaign of any fashion brand starting this year,” said larsson. “we continue to elevate online shopping experience and have delivered four consecutive quarters of high quality double digit growth on ck.com,” said larsson. sign up for wwd news straight to your inbox every day get all the top news stories and alerts straight to your inbox. 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fall 2025 ready to wear new york doesn’t often have the kind of debuts it saw today. in fact, the last time a room buzzed like 205 west 39th street did this afternoon was when raf simons got his own big chance at calvin klein back in 2017. such is the brand’s mystique. it’s a rare american fashion company that transcends popular culture that has actually become popular culture but calvin klein is one of them. and with the 82 year old designer in the building, kissing kate moss and christy turlington hello and greeting reporters and stylists, some of whom hadn’t seen him in the two decades since he retired, there was a heightened sense of anticipation about the label’s return to the runway after a six year gap. enter veronica leoni, a 41 year old italian with a string of behind the scenes gigs at jil sander, phoebe philo’s céline, and the row, brands that occupy the minimalist, tailoring focused space that klein shaped and defined in his heyday. she also had a label of her own, quira, which she put on hold for a chance to creative direct for the first time, becoming the first woman to helm the brand in the process. klein’s presence at the show suggested what leoni’s approach might be: respectful and true to the founder’s legacy. archives are usually the big story in brand renovations like these, but the single item leoni pulled from calvin klein’s back catalog was a slingback ballerina flat. she said she wanted to design more on instinct. “i really tried to connect with his original energy, and we really tried to explore a 24/7 wardrobe, to give it a cinematic and a real reality,” she said at a preview. she opened with tailoring that glanced back at the 1990s, like a dove gray collarless jacket and matching pencil skirt cut to the knee, and worked her way through essentials for both women and men sturdy mackintoshes and trenches, a neat little crewneck and button down tucked into skinny pants, and relaxed denim before concluding with voluminous drapey jersey dresses and a wrap front tuxedo for evening. what previous interpreters of the brand’s legacy have tended to miss is the sensuality of calvin klein’s minimalism. francisco costa’s was dry; simons’s wasn’t really minimal at all. leoni’s previous experience might have suggested that she too would struggle with the hotter side of calvin’s pure/provocative dynamic. in the business, acolytes of jil sander, #oldceline, and the row are called fashion nuns for a reason. if the collection never quite reached the level of sexy, it certainly raised the pulse. what elevated this debut, and gave it its potential, was the carefully considered shift in silhouette leoni maneuvered. “the skinny silhouette it was very interesting for me, and quite refreshing compared to what i was coming from, and we will mix a little bit of that with a cropped knee length, very sharp silhouette,” said leoni. the mark of a great designer like leoni’s onetime boss philo, for instance is the ability to define a new proportion and change the way we think about getting dressed. there was an inkling of that here. and a knack for a cult object; the ck one bottle shaped evening bags was a clever idea. at that preview, leoni was wearing a pair of antique gold embroidery scissors tied around her neck with kitchen string. it was no vestigial accessory, judging by the make of the clothes, which on close inspection looked thoughtful and exacting. the real measure, of course, will be taken in the stores, but klein himself weighed in with his take. speaking to a fellow reporter after the show, he said, “for a start, it’s pretty extraordinary.” fall 2025 ready to wear fall 2025 ready to wear fall 2025 ready to wear fall 2025 ready to wear fall 2025 ready to wear fall 2025 ready to wear more from vogue see more stories © 2025 condé nast. all rights reserved. vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our affiliate partnerships with retailers. the material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of condé nast. ad choices cn fashion & beauty

by giulia piceni. cover image: veronica leoni recent news has shaken up the fashion world: calvin klein is returning to the runway and the brand has chosen italian fashion designer veronica leoni as its new creative director. the comeback of the higher end line of calvin klein 205w39nyc has taken many by surprise, as it wasn’t on their 2024 prediction chart. this revival marks a pivotal moment for the industry. in light of the recent trend of male designers taking the lead of major fashion houses, the appointment of veronica leoni, a woman, as the new creative director is a remarkable choice. un post condiviso da veronica leoni (@veronicaleoni) having served on the jury for last year’s fashion show at istituto marangoni firenze, veronica leoni, former design director of the row and founder of quira, is a creative who has always valued her roots, focusing on craftsmanship and the sartorial heritage passed down to her by her grandmother, quirina. keep reading the article to learn more about leoni and the brand that she will be leading creatively in the coming months. veronica leoni is a roman fashion designer who graduated in literature and founded the brand quira to honour her grandmother quirina, a seamstress with a rebellious spirit. veronica’s style blends sartorial elements from the late 18th century to the contemporary balenciaga aesthetic but with a bold, modern twist inspired by her spiritual mentor, phoebe philo. quira is a brand that stands out in today’s fast paced world by promoting a slower, more attentive approach to craftsmanship and reviving a forgotten sense of sophistication in style. un post condiviso da veronica leoni (@veronicaleoni) veronica leoni was a hidden gem among italian creatives for a long time. she gained experience working with minimalist brands such as jil sander, the row and céline. her name started to gain more recognition in the fashion world when she was a finalist in the previous lvmh prize alongside luca magliano. she is now creative director of the high end line at calvin klein, and her first collection will be revealed during the aw 2024/2025 season. calvin klein 205w39nyc reached a high point in the past under the creative direction of belgian designer raf simons. his designs from that era are considered the holy grail of vintage pieces and are often hard to find on second hand and vintage apps such as vestiaire collective or grailed. during his short time at the brand, simons offered his own take on the american dream, viewed from the perspective of an outsider teenager who would listen to the joy division when they were still considered niche. anyone have any pieces from these collections? #calvinklein #rafsimons #fashion #runway #needforbreed denim, americanas, cowboy boots with the rigid silver point, prints from a relatively unknown warhol’s photographic series and references to the golden age of hollywood were all part of simons’ imaginative vision. his work portrayed the outsider and outcast, giving voice to the visual lexicon of the united states from his european perspective.if you’re interested in a little fashion history lesson, here is a comprehensive overview of all the shows he created while at 205w39nyc: the raf simons era is widely considered one of the most influential periods in recent fashion history due to its remarkable creative impact. however, the same creative power led it to stagnate in terms of sales and eventually caused the downfall of calvin klein 205w39nyc, which faced several economic challenges. even the resort collections did not perform well commercially, causing a decline in public interest and sales. as a result, raf simons parted ways with the brand and soon after, he started collaborating with prada, where he is now designing alongside la signora, miuccia prada. given that one of her main mentors is the high priestess of minimalist fashion, phoebe philo, the aesthetic that we can anticipate from the veronica leoni era can be likened to one epitomised by carolyn bassette kennedy. it’s worth noting that the fashion icon had also previously worked for calvin klein, where she had the opportunity to meet the love of her life, jfk jr. un post condiviso da veronica leoni (@veronicaleoni) so prepare to embrace sleek silks, high quality cashmere and blazers all over the place. veronica leoni will showcase an emphasis on garment construction, blending a minimalist aesthetic with a maximalist approach to pattern making. in an interview with io donna, fashion journalist martina d’amelio cited a women’s wear daily interview with eva serrano, the brand’s ceo. serrano uses the word calvinist to describe leoni’s ethos at the ny based brand, highlighting how she and the fashion designer share the same minimalist approach to fashion. giulia piceni i’m firenze digest senior student editor and undergraduate arts curating student at istituto marangoni firenze you might be interested in…

after a six year hiatus, the famed american brand is back with its first female creative director. “i feel like king kong today,” veronica leoni joked backstage shortly after her debut presentation for calvin klein collection. it was her response when asked how she felt about being not just one of a handful of women leading a major fashion house but the first female creative director in the brand’s almost 60 year history. she had every right to swell with pride. just minutes prior, original calvin klein muses, kate moss and christy turlington, along with calvin klein himself, had gathered in a spare, white room at calvin klein headquarters on west 39 street for her show, the most anticipated event of the fall 2025 season. the occasion marked not only leoni’s debut, but the brand’s first runway presentation since raf simons’s final collection in 2018. so what did klein, now 82, have to say to the new woman in charge? “he was happy that he found a new coat to buy,” leoni explained with a laugh. “he was happy, i think. i’m really proud for him to feel at home again, and i hope he is going to really cherish this moment, because for me, it has been fantastic.” the rome born leoni arrives at calvin klein after having worked at jil sander (with the house founder), céline under phoebe philo, then the row, before landing at moncler. she founded her own brand, quira, in 2020 which made her an lvmh prize finalist in 2023 but has, until now, been an unknown to fashion followers. in a recent interview with the new york times, she spoke a bit about the scrutiny that’s come with her new high profile job: “people are putting together the pieces of my c.v. to predict the first outfit in my show, almost like an a.i. situation,” she said. “but i am really trying to surprise myself.” to embark upon her calvin klein journey, leoni dug into the house archives, being mindful not to succumb to too much nostalgia. they were “the root” of the collection, like “sleeping beauties, that wanted to have a kiss” in order to be awakened, she told reporters post show, a pair of trimming scissors slung around her neck. she was also inspired by her “personal exotic dreams with america. i felt that i knew america before i came here, because i grew with this fictional image of new york; i knew the places before i visited them.” from this view of the city, sprouted a number of characters in leoni’s mind: “the sexy worker, the taxi driver... jessica rabbit, clark kent” all of which shaped the personalities that floated down the runway on friday afternoon. there was a fuzzy brown nubby coat worn with slingback ballet flats a style she lifted from the archives and reimagined for 2025. nautical tinged looks included an oversized cream anorak worn with a matching beret, plus a beaded golden gown that clicked and clacked with every step. for men, western inspired garments like square toe boots and plaid shirts seemed to nod to simons’s time at calvin klein 205w39nyc. (leoni noted she enjoyed doing menswear for this collection, especially since “you need to find muses outside of yourself.”) a pared back “monumental minimalism” ran strongly throughout the entire lineup. however, there was one playful and, yes, nostalgic touch. leoni, like many who came of age in the ’90s, was obsessed with the ck one fragrance, so in homage, its iconic bottle appeared on the runway in the form of minaudières. in terms of her vision for klein’s signature brand of sexiness, “i would call it ‘sexitude,’” she explained. “it’s more like an attitude, it is something you own in the way you wear the clothes. i have wanted to redefine femininity and masculinity to explore beauty in the most authentic way.” to be comfortable in one’s own skin is, after all, the purest form of seductive power. and as for her muse? the woman she specifically had in mind for this collection? “i would say my wife the sexiest woman i know.” it turns out for leoni, there is “sexitude” a plenty to be found in everything from scarf coats and sharp suiting worn with oxford shirts to see through glittering pencil skirts paired with klein’s “most essential cashmere sweater” and slingback ballet flats two styles she pulled from the archives and reimagined for now. overall, it was a reclamation of sex appeal on one’s own terms, a concept with which the fashion industry is obsessed: show skin however you want to even if it’s from a trench coat buttoned to the top.

a sensual minimalism defined the italian designer’s anticipated debut as creative director of calvin klein collection, which marked the american powerhouse’s first runway show at new york fashion week since 2018 when you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. here’s how it works. veronica leoni comes to calvin klein with credentials. there have been stints at the row and celine (during phoebe philo’s tenure), jil sander and moncler, and the 2020 opening of her own label quira, which was subsequently nominated for the lvmh prize for young designers in 2023. ‘purity of design is powerful,’ ran the tagline for the latter, a statement which undeniably chimes with calvin klein’s namesake, the godfather of american minimalism (klein retired from the label in 2004). ‘my philosophy has always been the same,’ he said in 1984. ‘it’s always been spare, it’s always been about sensuality, it’s always been sophisticated. and above all, it’s always represented what i think is modern.’ this afternoon in new york, leoni   who was born in rome, italy   staged her opening act as creative director of calvin klein collection at the brand’s midtown offices at 205 west 39th street (in the role, she will design the brand’s two runway shows each year; the hope is that her aesthetic will trickle down to calvin klein’s more widely available commercial collections, from underwear to perfume). in the suitably spare showspace, unadorned save for the calvin klein logo written across the carpet, leoni presented a collection she described as returning to the essence of klein’s vision: notably a stripped back minimalism and pulsing undercurrent of sensuality. but while there was certainly a mood of reduction reminiscent of the designer’s 1990s collections running through the collection   crisp and rigorous black tailoring, bonded business overcoats, shrunken wool sweaters, baggy jeans   that contrasting mood of raw sensuality which made the label into a household name felt largely tempered (despite leoni’s assertions that she wanted to bring a ‘sexitude’ back to the label, an expression coined by the designer in an interview with the new york times prior to the show). instead, she noted a want to express a more intimate kind of desire, a flipping of the calvin klein woman from the object of desire to the one doing the desiring   details, like the clasping shut of a coat with the hand, a decolletage bearing sweetheart neckline, or the flushes of hot pink, suggested a more tender kind of intimacy. ‘sexiness has very much been on my mind,’ leoni told reporters backstage. ‘i wanted to redefine femininity and masculinity in the landscape of today. so i kept in my mind this idea of american beauty; beauty in the most fresh and pure way.’ ‘when it comes to sexiness, it’s more like an attitude,’ she elaborated. ’you own it in the way you wear the clothes. i think it’s really intimate being sexy   regardless the silhouette, the amount of skin, it’s about the confidence.’ the result was what leoni called a ‘24/7 wardrobe’, the elements of which you could see resonating with the consumer (a square toed pump and slipper, referencing a 1999 calvin klein collection, felt very of the moment, so too the series of voluminous draped jersey dresses which appeared towards the end of the show). though whether it had the necessary frisson of difference to retain attention over an upcoming month of shows, remains to be seen   after stripping it all away, going forward leoni might need to find bolder expressions of her vision to truly stand out. receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox. that said, leoni had the full support of calvin klein himself, who watched the show alongside his ex wife, the photographer kelly rector (the designer’s perennial muses, kate moss and christy turlington, were also in attendance). ‘he told me he was happy he had found a new coat to buy,’ she said. ‘i’m really proud for him to feel at home again.’ calvinklein.co.uk jack moss is the fashion features editor at wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. having previously been the digital features editor at another and digital editor at 10 and 10 men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i d, dazed, 10 magazine, mr porter’s the journal and more, while also featuring in dazed: 32 years confused: the covers, published by rizzoli. he is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines   notably art and design   as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including rick owens, pieter mulier, jonathan anderson, grace wales bonner, christian lacroix, kate moss and manolo blahnik. the new fiat grande panda has arrived, one of a new wave of compact evs due out in european markets throughout 2025 by guy bird published 7 february 25 a newly discovered diary by joan didion is soon to be published. titled 'notes to john', the journal documents her relationship with her daughter, husband, alcoholism, and depression by tianna williams published 7 february 25 french fashion brand jacquemus announces an official move into beauty with a line of products created in partnership with l’oréal. wallpaper* makes some predictions on what they might be by hannah tindle published 7 february 25 wallpaper is part of future plc, an international media group and leading digital publisher. visit our corporate site. © future publishing limited quay house, the ambury, bath ba1 1ua. all rights reserved. england and wales company registration number 2008885.

as the brand returns to new york fashion week, an inside look at what its new designer, veronica leoni, has planned. as the brand returns to new york fashion week, an inside look at what its new designer, veronica leoni, has planned. credit...jingyu lin for the new york times supported by by vanessa friedman veronica leoni, the new creative director of calvin klein collection, has been thinking a lot about sex recently. or not sex, exactly, but the attitude of being comfortable with sex, and your own sexuality. what she calls “sexitude.” a few weeks before her debut show, which happens to be the most anticipated show of new york fashion week, she was standing at a table in the calvin klein archive in long island city, on the south end of queens, talking about sexitude. the archive, a 5,000 plus square foot storage unit, contains nearly every calvin klein runway garment ever created from the first show until now, as well as such relics as mr. klein’s 1996 barbie doll and his original rolodex, complete with notes on his famous clients and what discount they each received (bianca jagger, no charge; meg ryan, 25 percent off wholesale), as well as all of the outtakes of his old ad campaigns. she was flipping through some photos from the first ck one ad campaign, shot by steven meisel in 1994   the one with a gang of disaffected girls and boys, including stella tennant, jenny shimizu and kate moss, in various states of grungy undress: topless, dropping trou, otherwise exposed. the images, ms. leoni said, had sexitude. so did a slithery slip dress from around the same era, hanging on a rack nearby. that was the era when calvin klein, which mr. klein had founded in 1968, turned into a global juggernaut, built on the foundation of a hedonistic minimalism. his clothes were stripped down, because, they suggested, that made it easier to strip down. no one else was as good at turning sportswear into provocation. jeans and underwear may have been the popular extensions of that idea, the pulse raising ad campaigns its overt expression, but neither offered anything near as subtle a come on as the clothes. it made a seat at his show … well, the hottest ticket in new york.

under the eyes of the original it girls of the 90s black and white calvin klein ads kate moss and christy turlington, the newly appointed creative director unveiled her highly anticipated debut collection on the second day of new york fashion week. a historical feat in many ways, veronica leoni became the first female creative director at calvin klein, succeeding raf simons whose departure 6 years ago left the brand leaderless. her appointment therefore caught the attention of critics and fanatics alike, and the show invite’s use of calvin klein’s 90s sans serif font made the ordeal all that more exciting. as it was hinted, this autumn/winter 2025 collection nodded to the 90s, in all its calvin klein coded glory. minimalism was the plat du jour, as per the precisely tailored suiting, collar peeping knit sweaters, and silk button up shirts. backstage, leoni exclaimed the important role the brand’s archives play in her vision for the future, without relying on nostalgia. afterall, her show notes do state her desire to bring “mr. klein’s original vision and distinctive approach into the current day.” with a largely neutral colour palette that ranges from a 9 a.m. networking breakfast in a shiny grey to a lunch hour visit to saks fifth in a deep khaki, leoni created a range of staples that stray away from basics, soon to be found in every ladies who lunch’s wardrobe in the tri state area. while this collection’s roots were firmly grounded in the 90s heyday of the all american brand, leoni kept the conversation focused on the 21st century figure. the collarless suiting, the caped overcoats, and the espresso brown looped coat brought on a sense of modernity to the collection. the layered tunics on skirts looks in particular felt like a reimagination of lipstick jungle’s nico reilly’s wardrobe if the show was set in the 2020s, while the silky overcoat with exposed while stitching should be on the moodboard for samatha jones’ winter list if the character had returned for and just like that… (leopard print, bottle shaped clutch bag included). all in all, it’s clear to see why veronica leoni is such a great fit for calvin klein’s “collection” line. the italian designer came into the role boasting a hefty resumé, with stints at jil sander and céline (yes, the #oldceline under phoebe philo). she is also the former design director of the row, and started her own label, quira, in 2020, which was subsequently nominated for the lvmh prize for young designers in 2023. to say leoni doesn’t have a clear plan and vision for calvin klein would be heavily misguided. while successful, leoni’s debut collection still leaves us with certain unanswered questions, and, possibly, foreseeable issues for the creative direction of calvin klein. mainly, how will calvin klein compete with the top dogs of the so called “quiet luxury” trend which has been championed by the likes of mary kate and ashley olsen’s the row and phoebe philo’s eponymous brand? will calvin klein be able to remain palatable to the average household american while aesthetically positioning itself closer to a much wealthier demographic? will leoni manage to create a hero product that will amass as much buzz as the classic calvin klein waistband branded underwear? only time will tell, and we, for one, will be watching. words   juliette eleuterio the chinese contemporary luxury fashion house taps the british designer to oversee menswear, womenswear, leather goods, and accessories, with his inaugural collection debuting at this february’s london fashion week. the belgian namesake brand has finally announced its successor, after the founder announced his retirement in march of this year. after two years at the helm of the italian house, following in the footsteps of alessandro michele, it has been announced that de sarno is parting ways with gucci. following in the footsteps of john galliano, who left the maison late last year, the belgian designer steps into one of fashion’s most decorated roles at the helm of maison margiela. after months of speculation, and following this afternoon’s announcement that matthieu blazy was leaving bottega veneta, it’s finally official: the french belgian designer is the new successor to virginie viard. here’s everything that went down at milan fashion week, this autumn/winter 2025 menswear season. after a decade at the helm of the french house, and amid swirling speculation about a game of musical chairs for creative directors, the british designer has announced the end of his partnership with maison margiela. amid speculation that jonathan anderson will be taking the reins of the french maison, dior has announced that kim jones is stepping down as artistic director, seven years after his appointment. wonderland caught up with the china born, london based designer to discuss her eponymous brand’s ss25 collection, the power of collaboration, and reflections on a decade long journey in fashion. inspired by her past, both personal and historical, feng chen wang brought back memories to her autumn/winter 2025 runway show. guess presents the world’s first high altitude fashion show at glacier 3000, celebrating the launch of its winter ski capsule collection and the second edition of the guess winter project. paying homage to the glitz and glam of ’70s hollywood, mike amiri’s autumn/winter 25 collection   presented this week during paris fashion week   marks a new chapter for the la based brand as it unveils its first ever women’s collection. here, photographer zak speers takes wonderland for an exclusive look behind the scenes of the big night. following the reopening of the italian powerhouse’s iconic boutique in the heart of the design district, fendi teams up with london based designer lewis kemmenoe to unveil “aenigma” an exquisite collaboration for miami art basel. in honour of the late vivienne westwood, we take a look back at 7 of her most remarkable collections. stephanie gundelach and awa malina stelter are on a mission to give the contemporary woman her dream capsule wardrobe. she favours a crinkle in her satin slips, and laughs off the mud stains on the bottom of her kitten heels   this is the mantra which guides the co founders, and has helped them cultivate their label operasport. from celebrities stepping out in pap ready fits, to the supers of the 2020s fiercely battling it out runway after runway, here are our top moments in fashion this year, recapped just for you. you blinked, and another list of nominees for awards season is in   here are the productions and stars in the running for a critics choice award this year. veronica continues to enchant with her stellar new ep “just a dream”, featuring her highly acclaimed track and single “the lake of the dead”. veronica d’souza, blesses fans with hypnotising new single, “just because a crush” and visuals from highly anticipated new album. we invite luxury spirits company william grant & sons’ brand ambassadors to iceland to get to know the culture. 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grace burns and eve hewson giggled, their eyes darting as a st. barth's baseball capped gentleman passed them on the calvin klein embossed sisal carpet. the gentleman was none other than benito, also known as bad bunny, casually slouching towards the front row at calvin klein. a scrum of photographers shifted their lenses from calvin klein himself towards the 30 year old pop star. then just before the lights dimmed, fka twigs and boyfriend, jordan hemingway scooched next to him on the bench. when the show began bad bunny watched poker faced as former girlfriend kendall jenner strutted past, bespectacled and suited in look 3. until today, calvin klein, the brand, had left a gap in the new york fashion week schedule for almost seven years. now, at the garment district headquarters of the brand, the whole world and their mother showed up to herald the american brand’s return under the new stewardship of creative director veronica leoni, the first woman to take the lead. (the last time calvin klein was on the schedule was with raf simons in september 2018.) speaking of everyone and their mother, the aforementioned grace burns is the daughter of christy turlington, with whom she arrived, both wearing straight from the runway looks. turlington greeted another old school calvin face, kate moss herself, with an extended, shimmying hug before chatting with mario sorrenti and his wife, mary frey, and stylist elizabeth saltzman. actor greta lee also took her spot front row in floor skimming, fog colored satin, alongside bridgerton star simone ashley, in a strapless deconstructed dress. (it was only once the show began that it became clear the front row ensembles were previews from the collection). but it was klein, flanked by anna wintour and his ex wife kelly, who garnered the most excitement from other attendees. klein, who sold the company and retired in 2002, offered an endorsement of leoni by watching the show from the front row (a rarity since his retirement). after stints at jil sander, phoebe philo’s céline, and the row, leoni joins calvin and her sensibilities that reflect the brand’s namesake. she leads with sensuality, restraint, and functionality. “for decades, calvin klein interpreted the idea of bold self expression, and i am willing to empower it with a strong accent on style and creativity,” she said when first hired. as brooke shields' famously said, “nothing gets between me and my calvins,” and today, on 39th street, that seemed to leoni's sentiment as well. sabrina dhowre, nara smith christy turlington, calvin klein, kate moss grace burns bady bunny more from vogue see more stories © 2025 condé nast. all rights reserved. vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our affiliate partnerships with retailers. the material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of condé nast. ad choices cn fashion & beauty
veronica leoni will be the first woman to run the brand. veronica leoni is the new creative director of calvin klein.credit...collier schorr/calvin klein supported by by vanessa friedman calvin klein, a brand that recently made waves with an ad campaign featuring the actor jeremy allen white in nothing but his underwear, is getting a little more buttoned up. on thursday, it announced it would restart its high end collection business under a new creative director, veronica leoni, along with a return to the runway   and, perhaps, to its former position as a tentpole of new york fashion week. ms. leoni will be the first named designer calvin klein has had in five years and the first woman to lead the house. she is one of the few women to be appointed to the top of the creative side of a major brand in the last year, when most of the big jobs have been given to white men. her appointment reflects the fact that jeans and influencers may not, actually, be enough to sustain a global name even in the era of social media   that an actual design point of view may be necessary. it is also a sign of the current upheaval in the fashion world, which has had a rash of designer appointments and reshuffling at brands like valentino, alexander mcqueen and moschino as the luxury business is increasingly challenged by the macro political and economic environment. calvin klein reported 2023 revenues of $3.9 billion, a growth of only 3 percent. “we see this as an exciting opportunity to celebrate calvin klein’s return to its full expression as a fashion brand,” said eva serrano, the global brand president of calvin klein. “the market and the industry have changed, and the consumer is more eclectic. we wanted to respond to this cultural shift in a modern way.” at calvin klein, ms. leoni, 41 and italian, will be responsible for men’s and women’s apparel, underwear and accessories, and her top line collection will inform the broader business and its presence on the red carpet, where aside from dressing brittney griner and her wife, cherelle griner, for the 2023 met gala, it has been largely absent. just as it has been absent from the new york fashion week runway since 2018, when the last creative director, raf simons, was abruptly fired after less than two years.

 the young italian designer, who founded the quira label, will be the first woman to serve as creative director of the calvin klein collection. by pino gagliardi deputy editor, thr roma italian designer veronica leoni has been named the new creative director of the calvin klein collection. leoni is the first woman appointed to this role by the brand, a symbol of 1990s minimalism. “we are proud to name veronica as creative director of collection, the pinnacle expression of the calvin klein brand,” global brand president eva serrano said in a statement. leoni will report directly to serrano. “it was clear from our first conversations that veronica’s life’s work had been preparing her for this moment and the opportunity to define a new era for calvin klein,” serrano continued. “i am confident that her purposeful approach to design and work ethic, combined with our shared values, will further enrich our iconic brand and result in a collection that resonates with our consumers around the world.”