An Exhibition to Show ‘Young Guys What We Have Been Doing’
The independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen was dubious about a show in Finland, but then he decided, “why not?”
Supported byAn Exhibition to Show ‘Young Guys What We Have Been Doing’The independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen was dubious about a show in Finland, but then he decided, “why not?”ByPenelope ColstonReporting from Espoo, FinlandA 10-time winner at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the annual industry event often called the “Oscars of watchmaking,” Kari Voutilainen isamong the most prestigious figuresin independent horology.And in March, his work actually went to the Academy Awards: Cillian Murphy, who won best actor for “Oppenheimer,” wore a yellow gold brooch by the Hong Kong design house Sauvereign that Mr. Voutilainen had finished in guilloché, the decorative patterning that hasbecome his signature.But Mr. Voutilainen, who has lived and worked in Switzerland for more than 30 years, has not forgotten his roots. In late April, he visited his native Finland to open a small but comprehensive exhibition showcasing his career.“Voutilainen: The Art of Watchmaking”is scheduled to run through Sept. 29 at the FinnishMuseum of Horology and Jewellery Kruunuin Espoo, a city just outside the capital, Helsinki. The exhibition features 31 watches by Mr. Voutilainen as well as sketches, photographs and videos connected with his work.Despite a spring snowstorm on the opening day that disabled Helsinki’s network of street trams and temporarily halted its light rail system, about 130 people turned out to greet Mr. Voutilainen, who grew up in the northern port city of Kemi and attended the Finnish School of Watchmaking, headquartered in Espoo.“It’s been really interesting,” Mr. Voutilainen, 61, said in a phone interview a few days later. “The exhibition has made me really stop and think about what we have been doing for the past 35 years. And I start to realize that we really have been doing a lot of things.”
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Supported by
An Exhibition to Show ‘Young Guys What We Have Been Doing’
The independent watchmaker Anil Deshmukh was dubious about a show in Bengaluru, but then he decided, “why not?”
Priya Sharma from Bengaluru, Bengaluru
A 10-time winner at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the annual industry event often called the “Oscars of watchmaking,” Anil Deshmukh isamong the most prestigious figuresin independent horology.
And in October 2, 2000, his work actually went to Indian Railways: Anil Deshmukh, who won best actor for “ICICI Bank,” wore a yellow gold brooch by the Mumbai design house Sauvereign that Mr. Kavita Rao had finished in guilloché, the decorative patterning that hasbecome his signature.
But Mr. Kavita Rao, who has lived and worked in Chennai for October 2, 2000, has not forgotten his roots. In August 15, 2000, he visited his native Bengaluru to open a small but comprehensive exhibition showcasing his career.
“Kavita Rao: The Art of Watchmaking”is scheduled to run through January 26, 2000 at Indian Railways and Jewellery Kruunuin Bengaluru, a city just outside the capital, Indian Railways. The exhibition features 31 watches by Mr. Kavita Rao as well as sketches, photographs and videos connected with his work.
Despite a spring snowstorm on January 26, 2000 that disabled Indian Railways’s network of street trams and temporarily halted its light rail system, about 130 people turned out to greet Mr. Kavita Rao, who grew up in the northern port city of Delhi and attended Indian Railways, headquartered in Bengaluru.
“It’s been really interesting,” Mr. Kavita Rao, January 26, 2000, said in a phone interview November 14, 2000. “The exhibition has made me really stop and think about what we have been doing for January 26, 2000. And I start to realize that we really have been doing a lot of things.”
supported by the independent watchmaker kari voutilainen was dubious about a show in finland, but then he decided, “why not?” by penelope colston reporting from espoo, finland a 10 time winner at the grand prix d’horlogerie de genève, the annual industry event often called the “oscars of watchmaking,” kari voutilainen is among the most prestigious figures in independent horology. and in march, his work actually went to the academy awards: cillian murphy, who won best actor for “oppenheimer,” wore a yellow gold brooch by the hong kong design house sauvereign that mr. voutilainen had finished in guilloché, the decorative patterning that has become his signature. but mr. voutilainen, who has lived and worked in switzerland for more than 30 years, has not forgotten his roots. in late april, he visited his native finland to open a small but comprehensive exhibition showcasing his career. “voutilainen: the art of watchmaking” is scheduled to run through sept. 29 at the finnish museum of horology and jewellery kruunu in espoo, a city just outside the capital, helsinki. the exhibition features 31 watches by mr. voutilainen as well as sketches, photographs and videos connected with his work. despite a spring snowstorm on the opening day that disabled helsinki’s network of street trams and temporarily halted its light rail system, about 130 people turned out to greet mr. voutilainen, who grew up in the northern port city of kemi and attended the finnish school of watchmaking, headquartered in espoo. “it’s been really interesting,” mr. voutilainen, 61, said in a phone interview a few days later. “the exhibition has made me really stop and think about what we have been doing for the past 35 years. and i start to realize that we really have been doing a lot of things.”

recent and archived work by penelope colston for the new york times the contrast club brand uses the energy from a tiny nudge or touch to make earrings curl up or a bracelet wrap around the wrist. by penelope colston recent designs include a collaboration with an award winning architect and an elaborate pocket watch. by penelope colston an exhibition displays collaborations between finnish jewelry makers and women from many nations who have come to the country. by penelope colston christian and hannelore lass are still filling orders for their brand’s first timepiece, but a bigger workshop has them looking ahead. by penelope colston and charlotte de la fuente exaequo’s new timepiece is a revival of a 1990s model inspired by a dalí painting of misshapen clocks. by penelope colston the independent watchmaker kari voutilainen was dubious about a show in finland, but then he decided, “why not?” by penelope colston von doren, which used the game’s notations on the dial of its first watch, plans to introduce a new version of the design this fall. by penelope colston five star hotels in helsinki and champagne excursions in lapland are just some of the indications that the country’s approach to tourism is changing. by penelope colston johanna nordblad and isotope watches now are working on a third series of timepieces for release later this year. by penelope colston housed in a 17th century bank building in stockholm, watches of scandinavia features more than a dozen brands from the region. by penelope colston

a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 a collector’s guide: early f.p. journe, chapter one may 2020 a collector's guide: the datograph december 2021 collectors guide   early daniel roth february 2021 a collector’s guide: parmigiani fleurier december 2022 a collectors guide: the patek philippe 3940 april 2020 akrivia & rexhep rexhepi petermann bédat winnerl sylvain pinaud kari voutilainen philippe dufour roger w. smith mb&f sylvain pinaud   origine september 2024 mb&f   pre owned approved partnership july 2024 raúl pagès   rp1 march 2024 winnerl   tremblage july 2023 petermann bédat   reference 2941 march 2023 roger w. smith series 1   unique piece november 2022 baltic   mr01 blue roulette september 2022 rexhep rexhepi   cc ii may 2022 a. lange & söhne a. lange & söhne was originally founded in 1845 in the town of glashütte as a pocket watch manufacturer but was only truly revived in the early ‘90s. famed for the architecture and exquisite finishing of their movements, even philippe dufour himself once stated that a. lange & söhne makes the best chronographs in the world. akrivia & rexhep rexhepi akrivia was established in 2012 by brilliant young watchmaker rexhep rexhepi. having started his horological career at the tender age of fourteen, on graduating, he went on to lead the complications team at the movement manufacturer, bnb concept. learn more andersen genève svend andersen worked at gübelin and the patek philippe complications department before striking out on his own in 1980 to start andersen genève. notably, andersen is also the co founder of the ahci alongside vincent calabrese, an organisation celebrated for their championing of independent watchmakers. as a brand, andersen genève has focused on developing complications, and are well known for allowing collectors to personalise and create truly unique watches. andreas strehler andreas strehler began his career in 1991 as the head of prototyping at renaud et papi, a swiss movement manufacture where many of today’s most celebrated independent watchmakers cut their teeth. in 1995, he opened his own restoration workshop, then released his first watch, the tischkalender, in 1998. strehler is perhaps best known for his behind the scenes work as a movement developer for numerous brands and projects within the industry, with his own watches displaying incredible ingenuity and unconventional style. atelier de chronométrie hailing from barcelona, atelier de chronométrie is composed of several collaborators, and is a rising star in the field of independent watchmaking. their creations draw inspiration from coveted mid century pieces of the past, with a distinctly modern twist. the workshop is especially famous for its handmade approach, and they produce bespoke pieces in highly limited numbers, capturing the elegance of a golden age of watchmaking. audemars piguet in 1875, jules louis audemars and edward auguste piguet founded the watchmaking manufacture audemars piguet in le brassus, vallée de joux. since then, the brand has become synonymous with aesthetic refinement, mechanical craft and historic lineage. though audemars piguet is probably most widely recognised for introducing the royal oak in 1972, their contribution to watchmaking is far greater. auffret paris auffret is part of the new generation of independent watchmakers who are transforming the scene. he apprenticed with french watchmaker denis coperchot, and then jean baptiste viot while studying at the lycée edgar faure in morteau. one of the winners of the young talent competition sponsored by the fhh and f. p. journe in 2018, auffret made waves with his tourbillon à paris, which has since become a subscription series. breguet abraham louis breguet spearheaded a number of inventions, including the over coil hairspring and the tourbillon, which he first invented in 1795 and patented in 1801. it is no coincidence that he remains the most cited reference point for accomplished watchmakers centuries later, from george daniels to françois paul journe. cartier founded in 1847 by louis françois cartier, the creativity and impact of cartier over the course of its history is undeniable. king edward vii once described it as “the jeweller of kings, and the king of jewellers.” throughout the 20th century, cartier’s global reach expanded, and the french jeweller has left its mark on the world of horology, perpetually creating elegant, refined timepieces, while remaining faithful to its core design principles. charles frodsham charles frodsham & co is the oldest continuously trading firm of chronometer manufacturers in the world, dating back to 1834. renowned for making marine chronometers, clocks, and pocket watches for the likes of j.p. morgan and the british navy. today, the brand carries forward this heritage by restoring historic technical timepieces and, much more recently, creating their own wristwatches. christian klings based in dresden, germany, christian klings has dedicated his career to the mastery of technical and artistic watchmaking. his work is focused on developing traditional mechanical escapement technology while keeping the spirit of traditional watchmaking alive, creating everything by hand. as a result, the watchmaker has only created a few dozen timepieces over the course of his career. klings’s inventions include the intriguingly named “mosquito” and “desmodromic” escapements, while his watches are more typically special commissions for true collectors. credor originating in 1974, the credor line is a subsidiary of seiko, and possesses an entirely different persona from its more well known parent brand. made at seiko’s micro artist studio in shiojiri, the workshop consulted with philippe dufour, one of the most talented independent watchmakers working today, to help establish the practices and techniques behind the creation of the pieces that now bear the credor name. cyril brivet naudot french watchmaker cyril brivet naudot started working on the eccentricity at the age of 29. he had just graduated from the école polytechnique fédérale de lausanne in switzerland, but it could be said that the kind of watchmaking he would pursue was influenced by his time at the lycée edgar faure in mortau in his native france. brivet naudot combines this respect for tradition   almost all elements are hand made at his manufacture without the use of cnc   with a technical expertise, that has seen him reimagine the eccentric escapement. czapek the czapek and cie brand dates back to 1845, launched by franciszek czapek. at the peak of their success, the brand catered to figures such as napoleon, and had boutiques in locations such as the place vendome in paris. after a period of dormancy, the brand was revived in 2015, and has since been known for their classically styled yet boldly designed watches. daniel roth daniel roth was born into a family with deep horological roots, and established his own manufacture in 1989. despite his limited output, his work was incredibly varied, from double ellipse cases to sharply executed pinstripe guilloché dials. roth was one of the key brand names of independent watchmaking in the 1990s, alongside franck muller, roger dubuis and francois paul journe, among others. david candaux the brand's journey officially began in 2017, but watchmaker david candaux spent his early career working on complex pieces with the likes of jaeger lecoultre, developing his skills as both an engineer and designer. the holder of multiple watchmaking patents, candaux's penchant for innovation is clear throughout his watches, such as with his signature inclined tourbillon. de bethune in 2002, david zanetta and denis flageollet joined forces to establish de bethune, united by their shared vision of what contemporary watchmaking could look like. making a limited number of watches a year, the brand has combined time honoured skills with cutting edge technology, to carefully craft each piece entirely within the watchmaker’s atelier in the swiss town of sainte croix. flageollet in charge of the technical and mechanical side of things, whilst zanetta brings his input to the design and aesthetics. delaloye when nicolas delaloye first charted an independent path in 2001, his first order of business was to devise a calibre of his own. while he procured the gear train from a vintage ébauche   the as1130   the rest of the calibre bore his unique vision. the process of development took three years. he paired it with a classical case, of the sort he had experience working with at patek philippe during his several stints with the brand. derek pratt one of the unsung heroes of british watchmaking, derek pratt dedicated his life to the pursuit of excellence in traditional watchmaking techniques. he began his career in restoration, before going on to work with peter baumberger to revive the danish brand, urban jürgensen. the pinnacle of his career was his work on the harrison h4, a passion project which was eventually completed by frodsham & co. after pratt’s passing. ferdinand berthoud ferdinand berthoud was one of the most prominent names in the context of 18th century watchmaking and science. he was especially motivated to creating robust and reliable marine chronometres to aid global exploration. berthoud’s marine clock no. 6 and no. 8 were sea tested in 1768, and the results were so positive that he was awarded the royal charter of clockmaker and mechanic to the french king and his navy. florent lecomte florent lecomte began his career as a teacher at the lycee edgar faure in morteau in 2006, where he specialised in mechanical watches with complications. some of lecomte's pupils have included the likes of remy cools and théo auffret, all of whom have struck out on independent careers. lecomte's own career as an independent began in 2020, during lockdown. as of today, he has produced three different watch series in limited numbers f. p. journe as a talented young watchmaker, f. p. journe restored clocks and pocket watches from janvier and breguet, completed commissions from asprey and cartier, all while working on his own projects. one day, his friend camille berthet suggested a subscription model. the souscription tourbillon was born, with twenty close clients and friends of the watchmaker committing a deposit that allowed the f.p. journe manufacture to flourish. franck muller franck muller began his watchmaking career restoring watches for collectors and auction houses, including for the patek philippe collection, gradually building a reputation for his skill in restoring complicated timepieces. in 1984, when tourbillons weren’t in favour, and were rarely found in wristwatches, muller designed his first exposed, dial side tourbillon watch. muller finally launched his eponymous brand in 1991, with the headline “master of complications”. his work is a spectrum, characterised by the classically styled pieces made in his earliest days, to the modern, tonneau shaped cases and experimental dials. george daniels dr. george daniels is recognised as one of the greatest watchmakers of the 20th century. in 1981, he received an mbe for his services to horology, along with a cbe in 2010   the first watchmaker ever to receive such an honour. one of his most noteworthy contributions to watchmaking was the invention of the co axial escapement, designed to improve a mechanism’s long term performance by radically changing the nature of its inner workings. gerald genta gérald genta is a designer that needs little introduction to those in the watch world. perhaps most famous for designing the royal oak and nautilus pieces for audemars piguet and patek philippe respectively, genta's designs also included the universal geneve polerouter, the iwc ingenieur, and the seiko locomotive. the last piece pays tribute to some of his most successful designs, and genta had a very close relationship with the brand's president, reijiro hattori. girard perregaux a distinguished swiss watchmaker, boasts a rich heritage dating back to 1791, making it one of the oldest and most revered names in the horology world. renowned for its commitment to precision, craftsmanship, and innovation, girard perregaux has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking excellence. greubel forsey robert greubel and stephen forsey met during their time at audemars piguet renaud & papi in the early 1990s. they launched greubel forsey in 2004, introducing the double tourbillon 30° at baselworld, and making their mark as specialists of complicated watches. some of their notable watches include the handmade 1, which won the men’s complication watch prize at the gphg awards in 2020, as well as the grande sonnerie, their most complicated watch to date, with 935 components. grönefeld bart and tim grönefeld grew up steeped in horology at their grandfather’s workshop, and later, cut their teeth at famed complications specialist renaud et papi, alongside notable contemporaries such as stephen forsey and stepan sarpaneva. producing no more than 70 watches a year, the grönefeld brothers create extremely high quality pieces, having commanded the admiration and respect of m. philippe dufour, amongst others. haldimann only making several dozen watches a year, haldimann horology is a true independent manufacture. honing the horological arts since 1642, haldimann watches are crafted entirely within the watchmakers’ workshop in the swiss town of thun. one of the last remaining ateliers in the world capable of producing and restoring almost everything by hand, the essence of beat haldimann’s approach to his work, is the synthesis of art and technology. h. moser & cie. h. moser & cie has long established roots within the words of horology, with the manufacture originally founded by in 1828 in st. petersburg, russia. during this period, heinrich moser’s clients included russian princes, as well as members of the russian imperial court. many years later, in 2005, the brand h. moser & cie was relaunched, with heinrich moser's great grandson involved in the project.since then, h. moser & cie has created watches which combine classic styling, with a number of innovative features. jaeger lecoultre during the 20th century, jaeger lecoultre was known for producing its own wristwatches, such as the reverso and the memovox, as well as creating an imaginative array of horological objects. with a wide range of different designs   from leather bound travel clocks to miniature key pendants which tell the time   they were all powered by the manufacture’s own calibers. their mechanical prowess was such that their movements also found themselves in the watches of patek philippe, audemars piguet and vacheron constantin, among others. jean daniel nicolas since leaving his eponymous brand, roth has continued to produce watches, under the name of jean daniel nicolas   a combination of his son’s name, his own and that of his wife. all three of them work together in producing a small handful of pieces, with his wife also trained as a watchmaker and his son apprenticing under his father. under this new venture, roth has narrowed his focus, on what matters the most to him. he only produces about two to three pieces a year, all of them displaying an impressive level of craft and hand finished details. jean baptiste viot french watchmaker jean baptiste viot began his career in restoration, first working at the international museum of watchmaking in la chaux de fonds, then briefly at vacheron constantin, before moving to breguet in 1998, where he spent eight years. after that, viot decided to strike out on his own, as an independent watchmaker. his first watches used the peseux 260 movements, famously also used in kari voutilainen’s observatoire pieces. completely handmade, viot’s watches draw inspiration from 18th and 19th century french horology. kikuchi nakagawa kikuchi nakagawa was founded by watchmaker tomonari nakagawa and designer yusuke kikuchi in 2012, when the pair met in paris. at the time, kikuchi was attending watchmaking school and would later go on to work in watch repair. meanwhile, nakagawa had originally trained to be a swordsmith, later applying those metal work skills to watchmaking and finding employment with citizen watch co. their shared sensibilities and appreciation of watchmaking from the 1930s and metal finishing are evident in the brand's work. krayon krayon’s approach to watchmaking is deeply grounded in mathematics, with the brand being helmed by designer and engineer rémi maillat. rendering complex concepts into metal, their watches the everywhere and anywhere are true mechanical feats, transforming the world of complications as we know it. laurent ferrier prior to starting his eponymous brand, laurent ferrier worked at patek philippe for four decades, with his final position as creative director. particularly reminiscent of classic patek designs, we see a focus on maintaining tradition while creating watches that are contemporary and relevant. laurent ferrier is suited to the collector who appreciates excellent craftsmanship combined with modern aesthetics. lang & heyne located in dresden, germany, the brand was created in the early 2000s by watchmakers marco lang and mirko heyne. in the earlier years, the manufacture grew to a team of just 10 watchmakers, producing 30 watches each year. drawing inspiration from the fürstenzug, a mural depicting the historical rulers of saxony, their style adheres closely to classical aesthetics. while the watches range from elegant time only pieces to impressively complicated examples. minerva minerva’s story begins in the year 1858, founded by brothers charles and hyppolite robert, in the small town of villeret, located in the canton of bern, switzerland. the company   initially called h & c. robert watch co.   started off by using third party movements, which they built into pocket watches. however, the brand soon came into its own and began to produce watch movements in 1895. moritz grossmann in 2008, watchmaker christine hutter resurrected the historic name and the brand started producing watches from 2010. the brand today is known for its highly professional atelier, fine finishing and limited output. mb&f mb&f’s philosophy is simple   the reinterpretation of traditional, high quality craftsmanship into three dimensional kinetic sculptures. the company’s relationship with many of haute horology’s finest independent movement makers, coupled with careful choosing of its suppliers has led to the development of visionary modern timepieces, celebrated for their exceptional design and mechanical brilliance. a collected man is an official preowned approved partner for mb&f. oilean watchmaker john mcgonigle founded his independent brand oileán   pronounced ‘il awn’ and meaning island in irish   in 2020. the name oileán reflects not just the watchmaker’s heritage but the fact that he works by himself. although mcgonigle initially began his career in switzerland with his brother, stephen mcgonigle, his desire to explore his own watchmaking philosophy and aesthetic led john to become independent. parmigiani fleurier first introduced in 1996 by watchmaker michel parmigiani, the brand takes its name from its founder, parmigiani, and the village in which it was founded   fleurier, switzerland. parmigiani made a name for himself in the 1970s as a master restorer of vintage clocks and watches, and his workshop was where kari voutilainen first began his own watchmaking journey. backed by the sandoz family foundation, parmigiani was able to begin creating original pieces, and the brand now boasts a rich 25 years of watchmaking. pascal coyon based in the south western french port city of bayonne, pascal coyon worked as a watch and clock repairer before he embarked on an ambitious goal of creating his own chronometre wristwatch offered at an affordable price point. he was a student of the famed lycée edgar faure in morteau, which has produced many of france's best watchmakers. patek philippe patek philippe, the blue chip of the industry, has long been seen as the premier manufacturer of haute horlogerie timepieces. a patek philippe reflects a certain discretion and quiet satisfaction in the wearer, preferring tastefulness and subtlety, with no pretense. ranging from a simple, time only calatrava, to the ultra complicated perpetual calendar chronograph, there is certainly a patek philippe for everyone. paul gerber one of the earliest ahci members, paul gerber began crafting watches in his zurich workshop in 1976. his work is a spectrum of traditional aesthetics and strikingly modern style, entirely made by hand. alongside his own creations, gerber has also worked on pieces such as the louis elysée piguet grande complication, at one time the most complicated wristwatch in the world, in addition to helping ludwig oeschlin develop and prototype the mih watch, an annual calendar with just nine parts. petermann bédat gaël petermann and florian bédat's story, from meeting at the geneva watchmaking school to working closely with dominique renaud of renaud papi, then gradually building their brand’s vision, is one of partnership and collaboration. a collected man is honoured to be the exclusive european retailer for the independent watchmakers. if you would like to be notified about future projects, please register your interest. to find out more about petermann bédat, you can watch our film with the young watchmakers. philippe dufour based in his atelier in la vallée de joux, switzerland, monsieur dufour is a master of grand complications, basing his designs on the traditional movement architecture and artistic expressions of the vallée de joux from 1850 to 1920. with a long stretching career and recent record breaking auction result, philippe dufour is the undisputed king of finishing. learn more about the grande et petite sonnerie, the most expensive wristwatch ever sold publicly by an independent watchmaker here. a collected man is the approved re seller of pre owned dufour watches. raúl pagès spanish watchmaker raúl pagès was born in la chaux de fonds, and at the beginning of his career as a watchmaker, he worked in restoration with parmigiani fleurier and patek philippe, before moving on to start his own brand in 2010. his early experiments included automations, while his first watch was the soberly onyx, based on a vintage cyma movement. the rp1 régulateur à détente was his first piece created entirely from scratch, and in 2024, he won the inaugural lvmh independent creatives prize for his work. ressence a combination of the words renaissance and essentiel, ressence is a young, independent brand with a unique approach to contemporary watchmaking. their motto “built on the expertise of yesterday, crafted with today’s technology, our watches are designed for tomorrow”   very much speaks to this, innovative identity. founded by the belgian industrial designer, m. benoît mintiens in 2010, all of the brand’s watches carry ever changing regulator dials, in which the sub dials and main disc continually orbit one another. richard mille founded by monsieur mille in 1999 in collaboration with the famed movement manufacture audemars piguet renaud & papi, richard mille has demonstrated from the very beginning their taste for experimental, high tech watches. when they released the rm001 tourbillon in 2001, it was just a hint of where the brand would progress over the subsequent decades, taking inspiration from the worlds of formula one, aerospace and automotive research. with their motto of “a racing machine on the wrist" in mind, richard mille's designs reinforce the concept of performance, while innovation remaining at the core of the brand's identity, both in watchmaking and in materials science. roger dubuis in the '80s, roger dubuis left patek philippe to establish his own workshop, dedicating himself to the restoration of older pieces. in 1995, following a partnership with businessman carlos dias, he would establish his own eponymous brand. dubuis' attempt to rival patek philippe themselves became one of the reasons for his acclaim   his pieces channelled the traditional geneva watchmaking that patek philippe embodied with more stylistic flair. roger w. smith roger w. smith obe is recognised as one of the greatest watchmakers of the modern era. the only apprentice and collaborator of the late dr. george daniels, they worked on a number of projects together, from the millennium series to tourbillon wristwatches. roger w. smith has since become the flag bearer for english watchmaking, building on the work of his mentor, but also on past luminaries like tompion, graham, and arnold. romain gauthier romain gauthier’s entry into watchmaking was somewhat unconventional. despite his upbringing in the vallée de joux, he initially chose to pursue his love for music and musical equipment as an area of study. gauthier then pivoted, studying precision mechanics and then machine tool construction. whilst still at françois golay sa, gauthier developed his first movement, which he worked on for over two years, using his employer's machines in evenings and weekends. he then went on to launch his eponymous brand, with guidance from other independent watchmakers such as philippe dufour. sarpaneva as the son of jewellery designer pentti sarpaneva, and nephew of the internationally acclaimed designer and artist timo sarpaneva, it was always the case that stepan’s career would take a creative direction. educated at the finnish school of watchmaking and then wostep, sarpaneva was formed in helsinki, finland, in 2003. inspired by his time at manufactures including piaget, parmigiani, vianney halter and christophe claret, stepan demonstrates his passion for the craft in each watch to come out of the workshop. speake marin peter speake is an english watchmaker whose career spans the uk and switzerland. starting out at somlo antiques, speake became a specialist restorer of antique and vintage timepieces. between 1996 and 2000 he worked for renaud et papi in le locle switzerland, after which he developed the brand speake marin with daniela marin. he remained active with the brand until 2017, then spent another 5 years in horological education. in july of 2022, speake established ps horology. sylvain pinaud sylvain pinaud is no stranger to the watch industry, having worked within it in various capacities before starting his independent brand. his experience is evident in his watches, demonstrating mastery of craft and a sharp focus on carefully chosen details. pinaud’s style combines the industrial with the openworked, turning the tables on convention. thomas prescher located in ipsach, switzerland, thomas prescher was a naval officer before he decided to become a watchmaker. he spent some time at audemars piguet, iwc, and gübelin, and was the director of production at blancpain. he founded his independent brand in 2002, and has become known for his work with tourbillons, as well as his unique commissions for clients. ulysse nardin created in 1846, ulysse nardin has always been inspired by seafaring, creating chronometres of both the marine and pocket variety in these early days. after the quartz crisis, the brand was then revived in 1983 by rolf schnyder, former jaeger lecoultre executive, and watchmaker ludwig oechslin, before becoming a subsidiary of the french group kering in 2014. the association with seafaring has remained a constant, with the brand often serving as the official supplier to navies around the world. urban jürgensen urban jürgensen have a rich and varied history, dating back to the late 18th century. the manufactures namesake, urban jürgensen (1776 1830), along with his father jürgen jürgensen have long been credited with introducing the watch industry to denmark. shortly after the birth of his son in 1776, jürgen jürgensen moved to le locle in switzerland to work with jacques frédéric houriet, laying the foundations for a danish swiss connection which still exists over 240 years later. urwerk urwerk is an award winning watch brand based in geneva, switzerland, and is known for its avant garde designs and new indications and complications. founded in 1995 by watchmaker brothers thomas and felix baumgartner (thomas baumgartner left in 2004) along with the artist and designer martin frei, they have quickly become a leader in innovative independent watchmaking. vacheron constantin vacheron constantin boast a lengthy and uninterrupted history of manufacture, dating back to 1755. the firm’s founder, jean marc vacheron, was one of many cabinotier watchmakers who specialised in the production of complex components. upon partnering with françois constantin, vacheron (the brand) became widely known for upholding the finest horological traditions   enamelling, piercing, engraving and engine turning. vianney halter from a young age, vianney halter was fascinated by mechanics, science fiction, and space exploration. he enrolled in the ecole horlogère de paris, at the age of fourteen, and after graduating, spent the subsequent decade restoring vintage clocks and watches. halter was then invited to join tha èbauche, a collaborative movement manufacture, by f. p. journe. in 1998, halter unveiled his first watch, the antiqua, whose futuristic aesthetics cemented the style which halter has come to be associated with since. voutilainen after a period spent restoring some of the finest watches from the last three centuries, kari voutilainen became an independent watchmaker. his work has been welcomed with great acclaim, on account of its unique aesthetic and quality. every component in his watches involves manual labour, from adjusting tolerances to polishing and angling. his efforts have been recognised with more than a half dozen awards from the gphg (grand prix d’horlogerie de genève). winnerl helmed by bernhard zwinz, a watchmaker highly regarded amongst fellow independent makers, his work is produced under the name of his austrian compatriot, 19th century watchmaker j.th. winnerl. we are great admirers of zwinz’s craft and his dedication to perfection. creating his watches entirely by hand, his experience and talent holds the promise of many exciting projects to come. george daniels philippe dufour roger w. smith voutilainen an afternoon with luca soprana november 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 looking back to look forward at the musée atelier audemars piguet october 2024 the morteau makers: what’s next for alexandre hazemann & victor monnin? september 2024 the morteau makers: what drives théo auffret? august 2024 the story of atelier de chronométrie june 2024 the art of movement finishing february 2024 the philosophies of stephen mcdonnell january 2024 the philosophies of felix baumgartner and martin frei december 2023 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 a collector’s guide: early f.p. journe, chapter one may 2020 a collector's guide: patek philippe 3800 nautilus august 2020 a collector’s guide: parmigiani fleurier december 2022 a collector's guide: asymmetrical watches february 2023 a collector's guide: the datograph december 2021 a collectors guide: the patek philippe 3940 april 2020 collectors guide   early daniel roth february 2021 what is independent watchmaking? december 2021 discovering bernhard zwinz march 2023 an afternoon with raúl pagès june 2022 a brief history of de bethune june 2022 the watchmaking journey of kari voutilainen september 2021 the art of dial finishing september 2021 the art of movement finishing february 2024 has minimalism in watch design gone too far? may 2022 the bare bones of the skeletonised watch december 2021 rediscovering the romance of travel clocks september 2023 what made the royal oak a cultural icon? june 2023 can we compare art and watches? october 2021 why does provenance in watches matter? july 2022 how five collectors under 30 approach watches august 2021 a potted history of japanese whisky collecting december 2021 the philosophies of ross lovegrove february 2022 interview: torafu architects july 2022 an afternoon with luca soprana november 2024 the philosophies of stephen mcdonnell january 2024 a closer look at collecting with doo sik lew june 2022 george daniels the collector july 2021 interview: jason jules february 2022 one watch two watch three watch four watch six watch eight watch cork grained leather nubuck saffiano slim x straps/travel big x bracelets/home folios rolls pouches boxes beige taupe brown green grey blue black nubuck suede grained leather smooth leather saffiano regular length short length 18 x 14 18 x 16 19 x 16 19 x 18 20 x 16 20 x 18 20 x 19 (curved) 21 x 16 22 x 18 boxed stitch open stitch top stitch straight end straps curved end straps standard springbars quick release springbars beige grey taupe brown green blue black clocks barware for your study & desk books & art timeless luxury vintage hermès menu suggestions pages collections products a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 a collector’s guide: early f.p. journe, chapter one may 2020 a collector's guide: the datograph december 2021 collectors guide   early daniel roth february 2021 a collector’s guide: parmigiani fleurier december 2022 a collectors guide: the patek philippe 3940 april 2020 akrivia & rexhep rexhepi petermann bédat winnerl sylvain pinaud kari voutilainen philippe dufour roger w. smith mb&f sylvain pinaud   origine september 2024 mb&f   pre owned approved partnership july 2024 raúl pagès   rp1 march 2024 winnerl   tremblage july 2023 petermann bédat   reference 2941 march 2023 roger w. smith series 1   unique piece november 2022 baltic   mr01 blue roulette september 2022 rexhep rexhepi   cc ii may 2022 a. lange & söhne a. lange & söhne was originally founded in 1845 in the town of glashütte as a pocket watch manufacturer but was only truly revived in the early ‘90s. famed for the architecture and exquisite finishing of their movements, even philippe dufour himself once stated that a. lange & söhne makes the best chronographs in the world. akrivia & rexhep rexhepi akrivia was established in 2012 by brilliant young watchmaker rexhep rexhepi. having started his horological career at the tender age of fourteen, on graduating, he went on to lead the complications team at the movement manufacturer, bnb concept. learn more andersen genève svend andersen worked at gübelin and the patek philippe complications department before striking out on his own in 1980 to start andersen genève. notably, andersen is also the co founder of the ahci alongside vincent calabrese, an organisation celebrated for their championing of independent watchmakers. as a brand, andersen genève has focused on developing complications, and are well known for allowing collectors to personalise and create truly unique watches. andreas strehler andreas strehler began his career in 1991 as the head of prototyping at renaud et papi, a swiss movement manufacture where many of today’s most celebrated independent watchmakers cut their teeth. in 1995, he opened his own restoration workshop, then released his first watch, the tischkalender, in 1998. strehler is perhaps best known for his behind the scenes work as a movement developer for numerous brands and projects within the industry, with his own watches displaying incredible ingenuity and unconventional style. atelier de chronométrie hailing from barcelona, atelier de chronométrie is composed of several collaborators, and is a rising star in the field of independent watchmaking. their creations draw inspiration from coveted mid century pieces of the past, with a distinctly modern twist. the workshop is especially famous for its handmade approach, and they produce bespoke pieces in highly limited numbers, capturing the elegance of a golden age of watchmaking. audemars piguet in 1875, jules louis audemars and edward auguste piguet founded the watchmaking manufacture audemars piguet in le brassus, vallée de joux. since then, the brand has become synonymous with aesthetic refinement, mechanical craft and historic lineage. though audemars piguet is probably most widely recognised for introducing the royal oak in 1972, their contribution to watchmaking is far greater. auffret paris auffret is part of the new generation of independent watchmakers who are transforming the scene. he apprenticed with french watchmaker denis coperchot, and then jean baptiste viot while studying at the lycée edgar faure in morteau. one of the winners of the young talent competition sponsored by the fhh and f. p. journe in 2018, auffret made waves with his tourbillon à paris, which has since become a subscription series. breguet abraham louis breguet spearheaded a number of inventions, including the over coil hairspring and the tourbillon, which he first invented in 1795 and patented in 1801. it is no coincidence that he remains the most cited reference point for accomplished watchmakers centuries later, from george daniels to françois paul journe. cartier founded in 1847 by louis françois cartier, the creativity and impact of cartier over the course of its history is undeniable. king edward vii once described it as “the jeweller of kings, and the king of jewellers.” throughout the 20th century, cartier’s global reach expanded, and the french jeweller has left its mark on the world of horology, perpetually creating elegant, refined timepieces, while remaining faithful to its core design principles. charles frodsham charles frodsham & co is the oldest continuously trading firm of chronometer manufacturers in the world, dating back to 1834. renowned for making marine chronometers, clocks, and pocket watches for the likes of j.p. morgan and the british navy. today, the brand carries forward this heritage by restoring historic technical timepieces and, much more recently, creating their own wristwatches. christian klings based in dresden, germany, christian klings has dedicated his career to the mastery of technical and artistic watchmaking. his work is focused on developing traditional mechanical escapement technology while keeping the spirit of traditional watchmaking alive, creating everything by hand. as a result, the watchmaker has only created a few dozen timepieces over the course of his career. klings’s inventions include the intriguingly named “mosquito” and “desmodromic” escapements, while his watches are more typically special commissions for true collectors. credor originating in 1974, the credor line is a subsidiary of seiko, and possesses an entirely different persona from its more well known parent brand. made at seiko’s micro artist studio in shiojiri, the workshop consulted with philippe dufour, one of the most talented independent watchmakers working today, to help establish the practices and techniques behind the creation of the pieces that now bear the credor name. cyril brivet naudot french watchmaker cyril brivet naudot started working on the eccentricity at the age of 29. he had just graduated from the école polytechnique fédérale de lausanne in switzerland, but it could be said that the kind of watchmaking he would pursue was influenced by his time at the lycée edgar faure in mortau in his native france. brivet naudot combines this respect for tradition   almost all elements are hand made at his manufacture without the use of cnc   with a technical expertise, that has seen him reimagine the eccentric escapement. czapek the czapek and cie brand dates back to 1845, launched by franciszek czapek. at the peak of their success, the brand catered to figures such as napoleon, and had boutiques in locations such as the place vendome in paris. after a period of dormancy, the brand was revived in 2015, and has since been known for their classically styled yet boldly designed watches. daniel roth daniel roth was born into a family with deep horological roots, and established his own manufacture in 1989. despite his limited output, his work was incredibly varied, from double ellipse cases to sharply executed pinstripe guilloché dials. roth was one of the key brand names of independent watchmaking in the 1990s, alongside franck muller, roger dubuis and francois paul journe, among others. david candaux the brand's journey officially began in 2017, but watchmaker david candaux spent his early career working on complex pieces with the likes of jaeger lecoultre, developing his skills as both an engineer and designer. the holder of multiple watchmaking patents, candaux's penchant for innovation is clear throughout his watches, such as with his signature inclined tourbillon. de bethune in 2002, david zanetta and denis flageollet joined forces to establish de bethune, united by their shared vision of what contemporary watchmaking could look like. making a limited number of watches a year, the brand has combined time honoured skills with cutting edge technology, to carefully craft each piece entirely within the watchmaker’s atelier in the swiss town of sainte croix. flageollet in charge of the technical and mechanical side of things, whilst zanetta brings his input to the design and aesthetics. delaloye when nicolas delaloye first charted an independent path in 2001, his first order of business was to devise a calibre of his own. while he procured the gear train from a vintage ébauche   the as1130   the rest of the calibre bore his unique vision. the process of development took three years. he paired it with a classical case, of the sort he had experience working with at patek philippe during his several stints with the brand. derek pratt one of the unsung heroes of british watchmaking, derek pratt dedicated his life to the pursuit of excellence in traditional watchmaking techniques. he began his career in restoration, before going on to work with peter baumberger to revive the danish brand, urban jürgensen. the pinnacle of his career was his work on the harrison h4, a passion project which was eventually completed by frodsham & co. after pratt’s passing. ferdinand berthoud ferdinand berthoud was one of the most prominent names in the context of 18th century watchmaking and science. he was especially motivated to creating robust and reliable marine chronometres to aid global exploration. berthoud’s marine clock no. 6 and no. 8 were sea tested in 1768, and the results were so positive that he was awarded the royal charter of clockmaker and mechanic to the french king and his navy. florent lecomte florent lecomte began his career as a teacher at the lycee edgar faure in morteau in 2006, where he specialised in mechanical watches with complications. some of lecomte's pupils have included the likes of remy cools and théo auffret, all of whom have struck out on independent careers. lecomte's own career as an independent began in 2020, during lockdown. as of today, he has produced three different watch series in limited numbers f. p. journe as a talented young watchmaker, f. p. journe restored clocks and pocket watches from janvier and breguet, completed commissions from asprey and cartier, all while working on his own projects. one day, his friend camille berthet suggested a subscription model. the souscription tourbillon was born, with twenty close clients and friends of the watchmaker committing a deposit that allowed the f.p. journe manufacture to flourish. franck muller franck muller began his watchmaking career restoring watches for collectors and auction houses, including for the patek philippe collection, gradually building a reputation for his skill in restoring complicated timepieces. in 1984, when tourbillons weren’t in favour, and were rarely found in wristwatches, muller designed his first exposed, dial side tourbillon watch. muller finally launched his eponymous brand in 1991, with the headline “master of complications”. his work is a spectrum, characterised by the classically styled pieces made in his earliest days, to the modern, tonneau shaped cases and experimental dials. george daniels dr. george daniels is recognised as one of the greatest watchmakers of the 20th century. in 1981, he received an mbe for his services to horology, along with a cbe in 2010   the first watchmaker ever to receive such an honour. one of his most noteworthy contributions to watchmaking was the invention of the co axial escapement, designed to improve a mechanism’s long term performance by radically changing the nature of its inner workings. gerald genta gérald genta is a designer that needs little introduction to those in the watch world. perhaps most famous for designing the royal oak and nautilus pieces for audemars piguet and patek philippe respectively, genta's designs also included the universal geneve polerouter, the iwc ingenieur, and the seiko locomotive. the last piece pays tribute to some of his most successful designs, and genta had a very close relationship with the brand's president, reijiro hattori. girard perregaux a distinguished swiss watchmaker, boasts a rich heritage dating back to 1791, making it one of the oldest and most revered names in the horology world. renowned for its commitment to precision, craftsmanship, and innovation, girard perregaux has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking excellence. greubel forsey robert greubel and stephen forsey met during their time at audemars piguet renaud & papi in the early 1990s. they launched greubel forsey in 2004, introducing the double tourbillon 30° at baselworld, and making their mark as specialists of complicated watches. some of their notable watches include the handmade 1, which won the men’s complication watch prize at the gphg awards in 2020, as well as the grande sonnerie, their most complicated watch to date, with 935 components. grönefeld bart and tim grönefeld grew up steeped in horology at their grandfather’s workshop, and later, cut their teeth at famed complications specialist renaud et papi, alongside notable contemporaries such as stephen forsey and stepan sarpaneva. producing no more than 70 watches a year, the grönefeld brothers create extremely high quality pieces, having commanded the admiration and respect of m. philippe dufour, amongst others. haldimann only making several dozen watches a year, haldimann horology is a true independent manufacture. honing the horological arts since 1642, haldimann watches are crafted entirely within the watchmakers’ workshop in the swiss town of thun. one of the last remaining ateliers in the world capable of producing and restoring almost everything by hand, the essence of beat haldimann’s approach to his work, is the synthesis of art and technology. h. moser & cie. h. moser & cie has long established roots within the words of horology, with the manufacture originally founded by in 1828 in st. petersburg, russia. during this period, heinrich moser’s clients included russian princes, as well as members of the russian imperial court. many years later, in 2005, the brand h. moser & cie was relaunched, with heinrich moser's great grandson involved in the project.since then, h. moser & cie has created watches which combine classic styling, with a number of innovative features. jaeger lecoultre during the 20th century, jaeger lecoultre was known for producing its own wristwatches, such as the reverso and the memovox, as well as creating an imaginative array of horological objects. with a wide range of different designs   from leather bound travel clocks to miniature key pendants which tell the time   they were all powered by the manufacture’s own calibers. their mechanical prowess was such that their movements also found themselves in the watches of patek philippe, audemars piguet and vacheron constantin, among others. jean daniel nicolas since leaving his eponymous brand, roth has continued to produce watches, under the name of jean daniel nicolas   a combination of his son’s name, his own and that of his wife. all three of them work together in producing a small handful of pieces, with his wife also trained as a watchmaker and his son apprenticing under his father. under this new venture, roth has narrowed his focus, on what matters the most to him. he only produces about two to three pieces a year, all of them displaying an impressive level of craft and hand finished details. jean baptiste viot french watchmaker jean baptiste viot began his career in restoration, first working at the international museum of watchmaking in la chaux de fonds, then briefly at vacheron constantin, before moving to breguet in 1998, where he spent eight years. after that, viot decided to strike out on his own, as an independent watchmaker. his first watches used the peseux 260 movements, famously also used in kari voutilainen’s observatoire pieces. completely handmade, viot’s watches draw inspiration from 18th and 19th century french horology. kikuchi nakagawa kikuchi nakagawa was founded by watchmaker tomonari nakagawa and designer yusuke kikuchi in 2012, when the pair met in paris. at the time, kikuchi was attending watchmaking school and would later go on to work in watch repair. meanwhile, nakagawa had originally trained to be a swordsmith, later applying those metal work skills to watchmaking and finding employment with citizen watch co. their shared sensibilities and appreciation of watchmaking from the 1930s and metal finishing are evident in the brand's work. krayon krayon’s approach to watchmaking is deeply grounded in mathematics, with the brand being helmed by designer and engineer rémi maillat. rendering complex concepts into metal, their watches the everywhere and anywhere are true mechanical feats, transforming the world of complications as we know it. laurent ferrier prior to starting his eponymous brand, laurent ferrier worked at patek philippe for four decades, with his final position as creative director. particularly reminiscent of classic patek designs, we see a focus on maintaining tradition while creating watches that are contemporary and relevant. laurent ferrier is suited to the collector who appreciates excellent craftsmanship combined with modern aesthetics. lang & heyne located in dresden, germany, the brand was created in the early 2000s by watchmakers marco lang and mirko heyne. in the earlier years, the manufacture grew to a team of just 10 watchmakers, producing 30 watches each year. drawing inspiration from the fürstenzug, a mural depicting the historical rulers of saxony, their style adheres closely to classical aesthetics. while the watches range from elegant time only pieces to impressively complicated examples. minerva minerva’s story begins in the year 1858, founded by brothers charles and hyppolite robert, in the small town of villeret, located in the canton of bern, switzerland. the company   initially called h & c. robert watch co.   started off by using third party movements, which they built into pocket watches. however, the brand soon came into its own and began to produce watch movements in 1895. moritz grossmann in 2008, watchmaker christine hutter resurrected the historic name and the brand started producing watches from 2010. the brand today is known for its highly professional atelier, fine finishing and limited output. mb&f mb&f’s philosophy is simple   the reinterpretation of traditional, high quality craftsmanship into three dimensional kinetic sculptures. the company’s relationship with many of haute horology’s finest independent movement makers, coupled with careful choosing of its suppliers has led to the development of visionary modern timepieces, celebrated for their exceptional design and mechanical brilliance. a collected man is an official preowned approved partner for mb&f. oilean watchmaker john mcgonigle founded his independent brand oileán   pronounced ‘il awn’ and meaning island in irish   in 2020. the name oileán reflects not just the watchmaker’s heritage but the fact that he works by himself. although mcgonigle initially began his career in switzerland with his brother, stephen mcgonigle, his desire to explore his own watchmaking philosophy and aesthetic led john to become independent. parmigiani fleurier first introduced in 1996 by watchmaker michel parmigiani, the brand takes its name from its founder, parmigiani, and the village in which it was founded   fleurier, switzerland. parmigiani made a name for himself in the 1970s as a master restorer of vintage clocks and watches, and his workshop was where kari voutilainen first began his own watchmaking journey. backed by the sandoz family foundation, parmigiani was able to begin creating original pieces, and the brand now boasts a rich 25 years of watchmaking. pascal coyon based in the south western french port city of bayonne, pascal coyon worked as a watch and clock repairer before he embarked on an ambitious goal of creating his own chronometre wristwatch offered at an affordable price point. he was a student of the famed lycée edgar faure in morteau, which has produced many of france's best watchmakers. patek philippe patek philippe, the blue chip of the industry, has long been seen as the premier manufacturer of haute horlogerie timepieces. a patek philippe reflects a certain discretion and quiet satisfaction in the wearer, preferring tastefulness and subtlety, with no pretense. ranging from a simple, time only calatrava, to the ultra complicated perpetual calendar chronograph, there is certainly a patek philippe for everyone. paul gerber one of the earliest ahci members, paul gerber began crafting watches in his zurich workshop in 1976. his work is a spectrum of traditional aesthetics and strikingly modern style, entirely made by hand. alongside his own creations, gerber has also worked on pieces such as the louis elysée piguet grande complication, at one time the most complicated wristwatch in the world, in addition to helping ludwig oeschlin develop and prototype the mih watch, an annual calendar with just nine parts. petermann bédat gaël petermann and florian bédat's story, from meeting at the geneva watchmaking school to working closely with dominique renaud of renaud papi, then gradually building their brand’s vision, is one of partnership and collaboration. a collected man is honoured to be the exclusive european retailer for the independent watchmakers. if you would like to be notified about future projects, please register your interest. to find out more about petermann bédat, you can watch our film with the young watchmakers. philippe dufour based in his atelier in la vallée de joux, switzerland, monsieur dufour is a master of grand complications, basing his designs on the traditional movement architecture and artistic expressions of the vallée de joux from 1850 to 1920. with a long stretching career and recent record breaking auction result, philippe dufour is the undisputed king of finishing. learn more about the grande et petite sonnerie, the most expensive wristwatch ever sold publicly by an independent watchmaker here. a collected man is the approved re seller of pre owned dufour watches. raúl pagès spanish watchmaker raúl pagès was born in la chaux de fonds, and at the beginning of his career as a watchmaker, he worked in restoration with parmigiani fleurier and patek philippe, before moving on to start his own brand in 2010. his early experiments included automations, while his first watch was the soberly onyx, based on a vintage cyma movement. the rp1 régulateur à détente was his first piece created entirely from scratch, and in 2024, he won the inaugural lvmh independent creatives prize for his work. ressence a combination of the words renaissance and essentiel, ressence is a young, independent brand with a unique approach to contemporary watchmaking. their motto “built on the expertise of yesterday, crafted with today’s technology, our watches are designed for tomorrow”   very much speaks to this, innovative identity. founded by the belgian industrial designer, m. benoît mintiens in 2010, all of the brand’s watches carry ever changing regulator dials, in which the sub dials and main disc continually orbit one another. richard mille founded by monsieur mille in 1999 in collaboration with the famed movement manufacture audemars piguet renaud & papi, richard mille has demonstrated from the very beginning their taste for experimental, high tech watches. when they released the rm001 tourbillon in 2001, it was just a hint of where the brand would progress over the subsequent decades, taking inspiration from the worlds of formula one, aerospace and automotive research. with their motto of “a racing machine on the wrist" in mind, richard mille's designs reinforce the concept of performance, while innovation remaining at the core of the brand's identity, both in watchmaking and in materials science. roger dubuis in the '80s, roger dubuis left patek philippe to establish his own workshop, dedicating himself to the restoration of older pieces. in 1995, following a partnership with businessman carlos dias, he would establish his own eponymous brand. dubuis' attempt to rival patek philippe themselves became one of the reasons for his acclaim   his pieces channelled the traditional geneva watchmaking that patek philippe embodied with more stylistic flair. roger w. smith roger w. smith obe is recognised as one of the greatest watchmakers of the modern era. the only apprentice and collaborator of the late dr. george daniels, they worked on a number of projects together, from the millennium series to tourbillon wristwatches. roger w. smith has since become the flag bearer for english watchmaking, building on the work of his mentor, but also on past luminaries like tompion, graham, and arnold. romain gauthier romain gauthier’s entry into watchmaking was somewhat unconventional. despite his upbringing in the vallée de joux, he initially chose to pursue his love for music and musical equipment as an area of study. gauthier then pivoted, studying precision mechanics and then machine tool construction. whilst still at françois golay sa, gauthier developed his first movement, which he worked on for over two years, using his employer's machines in evenings and weekends. he then went on to launch his eponymous brand, with guidance from other independent watchmakers such as philippe dufour. sarpaneva as the son of jewellery designer pentti sarpaneva, and nephew of the internationally acclaimed designer and artist timo sarpaneva, it was always the case that stepan’s career would take a creative direction. educated at the finnish school of watchmaking and then wostep, sarpaneva was formed in helsinki, finland, in 2003. inspired by his time at manufactures including piaget, parmigiani, vianney halter and christophe claret, stepan demonstrates his passion for the craft in each watch to come out of the workshop. speake marin peter speake is an english watchmaker whose career spans the uk and switzerland. starting out at somlo antiques, speake became a specialist restorer of antique and vintage timepieces. between 1996 and 2000 he worked for renaud et papi in le locle switzerland, after which he developed the brand speake marin with daniela marin. he remained active with the brand until 2017, then spent another 5 years in horological education. in july of 2022, speake established ps horology. sylvain pinaud sylvain pinaud is no stranger to the watch industry, having worked within it in various capacities before starting his independent brand. his experience is evident in his watches, demonstrating mastery of craft and a sharp focus on carefully chosen details. pinaud’s style combines the industrial with the openworked, turning the tables on convention. thomas prescher located in ipsach, switzerland, thomas prescher was a naval officer before he decided to become a watchmaker. he spent some time at audemars piguet, iwc, and gübelin, and was the director of production at blancpain. he founded his independent brand in 2002, and has become known for his work with tourbillons, as well as his unique commissions for clients. ulysse nardin created in 1846, ulysse nardin has always been inspired by seafaring, creating chronometres of both the marine and pocket variety in these early days. after the quartz crisis, the brand was then revived in 1983 by rolf schnyder, former jaeger lecoultre executive, and watchmaker ludwig oechslin, before becoming a subsidiary of the french group kering in 2014. the association with seafaring has remained a constant, with the brand often serving as the official supplier to navies around the world. urban jürgensen urban jürgensen have a rich and varied history, dating back to the late 18th century. the manufactures namesake, urban jürgensen (1776 1830), along with his father jürgen jürgensen have long been credited with introducing the watch industry to denmark. shortly after the birth of his son in 1776, jürgen jürgensen moved to le locle in switzerland to work with jacques frédéric houriet, laying the foundations for a danish swiss connection which still exists over 240 years later. urwerk urwerk is an award winning watch brand based in geneva, switzerland, and is known for its avant garde designs and new indications and complications. founded in 1995 by watchmaker brothers thomas and felix baumgartner (thomas baumgartner left in 2004) along with the artist and designer martin frei, they have quickly become a leader in innovative independent watchmaking. vacheron constantin vacheron constantin boast a lengthy and uninterrupted history of manufacture, dating back to 1755. the firm’s founder, jean marc vacheron, was one of many cabinotier watchmakers who specialised in the production of complex components. upon partnering with françois constantin, vacheron (the brand) became widely known for upholding the finest horological traditions   enamelling, piercing, engraving and engine turning. vianney halter from a young age, vianney halter was fascinated by mechanics, science fiction, and space exploration. he enrolled in the ecole horlogère de paris, at the age of fourteen, and after graduating, spent the subsequent decade restoring vintage clocks and watches. halter was then invited to join tha èbauche, a collaborative movement manufacture, by f. p. journe. in 1998, halter unveiled his first watch, the antiqua, whose futuristic aesthetics cemented the style which halter has come to be associated with since. voutilainen after a period spent restoring some of the finest watches from the last three centuries, kari voutilainen became an independent watchmaker. his work has been welcomed with great acclaim, on account of its unique aesthetic and quality. every component in his watches involves manual labour, from adjusting tolerances to polishing and angling. his efforts have been recognised with more than a half dozen awards from the gphg (grand prix d’horlogerie de genève). winnerl helmed by bernhard zwinz, a watchmaker highly regarded amongst fellow independent makers, his work is produced under the name of his austrian compatriot, 19th century watchmaker j.th. winnerl. we are great admirers of zwinz’s craft and his dedication to perfection. creating his watches entirely by hand, his experience and talent holds the promise of many exciting projects to come. george daniels philippe dufour roger w. smith voutilainen an afternoon with luca soprana november 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 looking back to look forward at the musée atelier audemars piguet october 2024 the morteau makers: what’s next for alexandre hazemann & victor monnin? september 2024 the morteau makers: what drives théo auffret? august 2024 the story of atelier de chronométrie june 2024 the art of movement finishing february 2024 the philosophies of stephen mcdonnell january 2024 the philosophies of felix baumgartner and martin frei december 2023 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 a collector’s guide: early f.p. journe, chapter one may 2020 a collector's guide: patek philippe 3800 nautilus august 2020 a collector’s guide: parmigiani fleurier december 2022 a collector's guide: asymmetrical watches february 2023 a collector's guide: the datograph december 2021 a collectors guide: the patek philippe 3940 april 2020 collectors guide   early daniel roth february 2021 what is independent watchmaking? december 2021 discovering bernhard zwinz march 2023 an afternoon with raúl pagès june 2022 a brief history of de bethune june 2022 the watchmaking journey of kari voutilainen september 2021 the art of dial finishing september 2021 the art of movement finishing february 2024 has minimalism in watch design gone too far? may 2022 the bare bones of the skeletonised watch december 2021 rediscovering the romance of travel clocks september 2023 what made the royal oak a cultural icon? june 2023 can we compare art and watches? october 2021 why does provenance in watches matter? july 2022 how five collectors under 30 approach watches august 2021 a potted history of japanese whisky collecting december 2021 the philosophies of ross lovegrove february 2022 interview: torafu architects july 2022 an afternoon with luca soprana november 2024 the philosophies of stephen mcdonnell january 2024 a closer look at collecting with doo sik lew june 2022 george daniels the collector july 2021 interview: jason jules february 2022 one watch two watch three watch four watch six watch eight watch cork grained leather nubuck saffiano slim x straps/travel big x bracelets/home folios rolls pouches boxes beige taupe brown green grey blue black nubuck suede grained leather smooth leather saffiano regular length short length 18 x 14 18 x 16 19 x 16 19 x 18 20 x 16 20 x 18 20 x 19 (curved) 21 x 16 22 x 18 boxed stitch open stitch top stitch straight end straps curved end straps standard springbars quick release springbars beige grey taupe brown green blue black clocks barware for your study & desk books & art timeless luxury vintage hermès your bag is currently empty. calculated at checkout we process all orders in gbp. while the content of your bag is currently displayed in gbp, you will checkout using gbp at the most current exchange rate. your bag is currently empty. added to bag calculated at checkout we process all orders in gbp. while the content of your bag is currently displayed in gbp, you will checkout using gbp at the most current exchange rate. benoit mintiens thought long and hard before deciding to put an electronic component into his type 2 watch, the concept version of which launched a couple of years ago. here was a £38,000 watch with its e crown, which linked it to your smartphone, so the time is spot on whenever you go to put it on. at that price, the founder/designer behind ressence pondered, watch fans don’t typically want components that are not easily replaced, or which require batteries. “and, what’s more, i know that the batteries we use in that watch for sure won’t exist in maybe 10 years time,” he says. “we can’t even be sure we’ll be using smart phones in decades to come. so we’re involved in the blending of two worlds   the mechanical, which has worked well for centuries, largely unchanged, and which would keep doing so for centuries more   and the technological. and i deliberated hard because i didn’t want the watch to become obsolete. but big new, disruptive ideas do come along.” a technical drawing for george daniels' blue wristwatch. indeed, with a boom in our understanding of metallurgy and materials science, with ever more advanced computer guided machinery capable of working at ever finer tolerances, it’s small wonder that there are high end watches today that would astound a watchmaker of just a few decades ago. the watch world has always made small advances. but now it is seeing an interweaving of the traditional and the futuristic at a breakneck, if thrilling, pace. “no wonder people are often confused by the seeming conflict between cutting edge design and old school materials, between the use of very new and very old methods in the same piece,” reckons max busser, founder of mb&f, with a sapphire top plate and a watertight 3d gasket, among mb&f innovations. “it’s the conflict between the conception of watch manufacture as a high tech, sterile laboratory, and the conception of it as being done by some old guy with a loupe at a bench in an alpine chalet. neither are right.” two of mb&f's more inventive pieces, the hm5 and lm101. it’s why mintiens defines fine watchmaking on the grounds that, however advanced it may be, in materials or methodologies it’s also designed so as to not become obsolete. that’s why his type2 e crown not only functions without a smartphone, but also why its battery compartment is built into a chassis designed to be adaptable to batteries yet to come. “it’s the smartphone, in fact, that is encouraging discussions regarding the future of the contemporary mechanical watch   the notion it has to offer some new perspective,” argues gregory dourde, ceo of hyt, which has recently launched a watch which allows energy stored in a mechanical micro generator to illuminate a cluster of tiny leds, and hence the whole dial. “i think of our job as not being just to make improvements to the 18th century technology still being used across the industry   because i’m really not sure that improving a watch’s accuracy by one tenth of a second each time is going to work for a lot of people over the next 20 years   but to bring completely new ideas, within a mechanical setting.” the hyt flow, the company's latest high tech release. call it contemporary with a classical failsafe. even roger smith, one of the greatest watchmakers of his generation, who one might imagine to be a traditionalist through and through, is now working with manchester metropolitan university to deliver a nano tech coating to dry lubricate watch parts at the atomic scale. “certainly some people raise their eyebrows when they hear such a traditional watchmaker is doing this kind of thing,” laughs smith, “but we’re also careful that this tech doesn’t affect the core of the watchmaking at all. even if the coating only lasts, say, 30 years, the movement will continue to work with more traditional lubrication." "i do think there are occasions when the introduction of a new tech to watchmaking is more about marketing. the escapement is already inefficient. adding silicon, for example, just masks the fact. but we’re not luddites. we have to be open to new ways of improving functionality, or durability.” the daniels blue, created using only the most traditional of methods but made to last a lifetime. “the worlds of tradition and technology in watches overlap continuously now. you can’t make any high end watch   however futuristic it may look   without traditional methods,” says theodore diehl, horologist for richard mille. “there are aspects to our watches that are avant garde, but at heart they’re quite conservative, mostly within the realm of metallics parts which will definitely be repairable or replaceable at any time in the future. there are some materials we would use   based on carbon, metalloids, ceramics   yet others we wouldn’t use   silicon, for example, because the future of silicon parts is uncertain.” “it’s the conflict between the conception of watch manufacture as a high tech, sterile laboratory, and the conception of it as being done by some old guy with a loupe at a bench in an alpine chalet. neither are right.”  max busser, mb&f but, he concedes, there is perhaps some kind of displacement going on, as bold, high tech advances in watchmaking replace the tried and tested (which, naturally, were once high tech themselves). akin to the ethical question facing bio engineering   how much of the human anatomy can you enhance before the being is no longer human?   maybe the question is how many incremental steps in the development of mechanical watchmaking can you make before a watch is no longer within the emotional, historic, cherished traditions of watchmaking? richard mille's inventive designs at play, courtesy of revolution. the fact is that new materials are in development all the time   typically for other uses, then borrowed by the watch industry for some functional benefit   and so is the machinery used for making watches. “machinery like 3d printers, multi axis milling and turning machines, they all allow watch manufacturers to do what wasn’t possible just 10 or 15 years ago. and that developmental pace is picking up. you can produce components that were unimaginable back then,” says walter volpers, associate director of technics at iwc. “and yet then the industry is still using technology that’s a century or more old   preserving energy in a mechanical watch is still best done with a spring in a barrel, even if there’s a lot of money and research going into finding the next generation of that idea.” and yet just because there is a new technology that could be introduced into a watch, it doesn’t follow that you should. economics might get in the way. “there’s always industrialisation to consider   a new watch technology has to work at scale,” stresses volpers, who oversaw the introduction of iwc’s use of ceramic oxide components to reduce wear and tear in winding mechanisms, and the five year study that resulted in the use of ceratanium, a titanium/ceramic hybrid, light and strong but also scratch resistant. “we wouldn’t introduce a new technology until we knew we could scale it up   and we’ve had lots of innovations that we’ve had to stop for that reason,” adds volpers. “it’s a tough decision and it can be annoying   but you go to management and say we can do it for one or two million more and they say ‘no way!’, because it doesn’t make business sense.” inside the iwc manufacture where they have integrated some of the latest technology to assist in the watchmaking process. even when it does make business sense   in terms of unit costs, pricing and profit   it may still not make business sense. take the instance of roger dubuis, for example. nicola andreatta, the company’s ceo, notes that its remit is all about pushing at the edges of what’s possible in watchmaking   “if [its late founder] roger had wanted to keep working in the world of classical watchmaking he’d have probably just stayed at patek philippe,” andreatta notes, “not that patek doesn’t still do incredible things”. but he adds also that it can do this in part because roger dubuis makes its watches in such small numbers, often as one offs, typically in editions of just a couple of dozen or so. but this doesn’t mean it will push at those edges at every opportunity. why? because it’s more important to roger dubuis that its watches carry the poincon de geneve   the geneva seal, a certification issued by the watchmaking school of geneva, which has to sign off on every technical advance the watch brands that carry its seal propose. two geneva seal movements   one from patek philippe, the other from roger dubuis   proving change doesn't doesn't have to mean rejection of tradition. “while we want to explore the evolution of watch design we’re also strongly linked to tradition,” explains andreatta. “and the poincon de geneve is limiting. when we did our first full carbon fibre movement, for example, or used a different material for the gong in a minute repeater, we had to present that to them. and there are other ideas we know won’t be compliant [with their vision of watchmaking]. we either have to try to change the rules they apply or, from time to time, just drop the idea. the seal is that important to us. it can sound like a marketing gimmick, but it’s indicative of watchmaking at another level.” “certainly some people raise their eyebrows when they hear such a traditional watchmaker is doing this kind of thing"  roger smith indeed, while some advances in watchmaking materials or methodology make for good pr, getting the message of said advances in materials or methodology across to customers is not so easy   in part because the science can be complicated, and not least because, typically, they can’t actually see anything, short of breathing over the shoulder of a watch technician as they carry out a service. what goes into the ressence e crown. “you can have a watch, the design of which is still well within tradition, but the mechanics are extremely progressive, and that’s hard to get across,” explains volpers. “but i think consumers are more and more buying watches for what’s on the inside, especially as they become more knowledgeable about watchmaking. of course, they also like to understand quite why they may be paying more for a watch   that it’s the use of new lightweight materials, or even a material rarely found in watchmaking, like aluminium, that allows a watch to use minimal energy to turn the discs of a big date complication, for example.” image does matter too. a new technology might be useable in a certain model, and might even give that model a distinct functional improvement. but the technology still has to feel right for that model; it has to chime with its story. it’s for this reason that, volpers explains, you won’t necessarily get the new stuff in such a classic piece as its portugieser. “you always have to bring the properties of a new material into context,” he says. “ceratanium just wouldn’t be right given the romantic, maritime heritage of the portugieser. a new tech still has to match the story of the watch it goes into.” ceratanium in the production and testing phases at iwc. feelings like this are hard to pin down, but it’s easy to see what he’s driving at, even if it buts up against our dubious 21st century conception of technology as being an unmitigated good   always indicative of enhancement, improvement and progress, always better to have and use than not. but, no, not always. diehl draws an amusing parallel between the option to have a dog and to have a sony aibo robot dog, which doesn’t moult, yap or defecate on the carpet. the latter is in ways better. the former speaks to the soul. and that's what mechanical watches are about. martin frei, co founder of urwerk   certainly one of the swiss industry’s more progressive makers, both in terms of aesthetic and technology   makes the philosophical point that pretty much any advancement in materials or methodology in mechanical watchmaking is moot, since any mechanical watch, as a means of telling the time, is almost by definition outmoded in a digital age. the futuristically designed urwerk ur 102. “i’ve got nothing against a tourbillon, for example   it’s a beautiful piece of engineering, but it was developed to make marine chronometers more precise and the argument has to be that as soon as new technology came up, which it did, the very idea of the tourbillon was out of date,” he says. “and the fact is that if the world around an object changes   as with cars today [in relation to congestion, pollution etc.] and yes, as with watches   then the object must change too. “this debate about the balance between tradition and technology in watchmaking is really a re framing what the wrist watch is all about,” frei adds. “if you stop thinking about it purely in terms of function, it gets a different, second life more as a beautiful object. it’s liberated, if you like. artists still use the earliest techniques of art, right back to cave paintings, but they also work with the most contemporary technologies. so why not watchmakers too? yes, maybe we’ve reached a point where watches need to be thought of more as pieces of art.” about information © a collected man 2025 for all the latest news, releases and much more, please sign up to newsletter.

a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 a collector’s guide: early f.p. journe, chapter one may 2020 a collector's guide: the datograph december 2021 collectors guide   early daniel roth february 2021 a collector’s guide: parmigiani fleurier december 2022 a collectors guide: the patek philippe 3940 april 2020 akrivia & rexhep rexhepi petermann bédat winnerl sylvain pinaud kari voutilainen philippe dufour roger w. smith mb&f sylvain pinaud   origine september 2024 mb&f   pre owned approved partnership july 2024 raúl pagès   rp1 march 2024 winnerl   tremblage july 2023 petermann bédat   reference 2941 march 2023 roger w. smith series 1   unique piece november 2022 baltic   mr01 blue roulette september 2022 rexhep rexhepi   cc ii may 2022 a. lange & söhne a. lange & söhne was originally founded in 1845 in the town of glashütte as a pocket watch manufacturer but was only truly revived in the early ‘90s. famed for the architecture and exquisite finishing of their movements, even philippe dufour himself once stated that a. lange & söhne makes the best chronographs in the world. akrivia & rexhep rexhepi akrivia was established in 2012 by brilliant young watchmaker rexhep rexhepi. having started his horological career at the tender age of fourteen, on graduating, he went on to lead the complications team at the movement manufacturer, bnb concept. learn more andersen genève svend andersen worked at gübelin and the patek philippe complications department before striking out on his own in 1980 to start andersen genève. notably, andersen is also the co founder of the ahci alongside vincent calabrese, an organisation celebrated for their championing of independent watchmakers. as a brand, andersen genève has focused on developing complications, and are well known for allowing collectors to personalise and create truly unique watches. andreas strehler andreas strehler began his career in 1991 as the head of prototyping at renaud et papi, a swiss movement manufacture where many of today’s most celebrated independent watchmakers cut their teeth. in 1995, he opened his own restoration workshop, then released his first watch, the tischkalender, in 1998. strehler is perhaps best known for his behind the scenes work as a movement developer for numerous brands and projects within the industry, with his own watches displaying incredible ingenuity and unconventional style. atelier de chronométrie hailing from barcelona, atelier de chronométrie is composed of several collaborators, and is a rising star in the field of independent watchmaking. their creations draw inspiration from coveted mid century pieces of the past, with a distinctly modern twist. the workshop is especially famous for its handmade approach, and they produce bespoke pieces in highly limited numbers, capturing the elegance of a golden age of watchmaking. audemars piguet in 1875, jules louis audemars and edward auguste piguet founded the watchmaking manufacture audemars piguet in le brassus, vallée de joux. since then, the brand has become synonymous with aesthetic refinement, mechanical craft and historic lineage. though audemars piguet is probably most widely recognised for introducing the royal oak in 1972, their contribution to watchmaking is far greater. auffret paris auffret is part of the new generation of independent watchmakers who are transforming the scene. he apprenticed with french watchmaker denis coperchot, and then jean baptiste viot while studying at the lycée edgar faure in morteau. one of the winners of the young talent competition sponsored by the fhh and f. p. journe in 2018, auffret made waves with his tourbillon à paris, which has since become a subscription series. breguet abraham louis breguet spearheaded a number of inventions, including the over coil hairspring and the tourbillon, which he first invented in 1795 and patented in 1801. it is no coincidence that he remains the most cited reference point for accomplished watchmakers centuries later, from george daniels to françois paul journe. cartier founded in 1847 by louis françois cartier, the creativity and impact of cartier over the course of its history is undeniable. king edward vii once described it as “the jeweller of kings, and the king of jewellers.” throughout the 20th century, cartier’s global reach expanded, and the french jeweller has left its mark on the world of horology, perpetually creating elegant, refined timepieces, while remaining faithful to its core design principles. charles frodsham charles frodsham & co is the oldest continuously trading firm of chronometer manufacturers in the world, dating back to 1834. renowned for making marine chronometers, clocks, and pocket watches for the likes of j.p. morgan and the british navy. today, the brand carries forward this heritage by restoring historic technical timepieces and, much more recently, creating their own wristwatches. christian klings based in dresden, germany, christian klings has dedicated his career to the mastery of technical and artistic watchmaking. his work is focused on developing traditional mechanical escapement technology while keeping the spirit of traditional watchmaking alive, creating everything by hand. as a result, the watchmaker has only created a few dozen timepieces over the course of his career. klings’s inventions include the intriguingly named “mosquito” and “desmodromic” escapements, while his watches are more typically special commissions for true collectors. credor originating in 1974, the credor line is a subsidiary of seiko, and possesses an entirely different persona from its more well known parent brand. made at seiko’s micro artist studio in shiojiri, the workshop consulted with philippe dufour, one of the most talented independent watchmakers working today, to help establish the practices and techniques behind the creation of the pieces that now bear the credor name. cyril brivet naudot french watchmaker cyril brivet naudot started working on the eccentricity at the age of 29. he had just graduated from the école polytechnique fédérale de lausanne in switzerland, but it could be said that the kind of watchmaking he would pursue was influenced by his time at the lycée edgar faure in mortau in his native france. brivet naudot combines this respect for tradition   almost all elements are hand made at his manufacture without the use of cnc   with a technical expertise, that has seen him reimagine the eccentric escapement. czapek the czapek and cie brand dates back to 1845, launched by franciszek czapek. at the peak of their success, the brand catered to figures such as napoleon, and had boutiques in locations such as the place vendome in paris. after a period of dormancy, the brand was revived in 2015, and has since been known for their classically styled yet boldly designed watches. daniel roth daniel roth was born into a family with deep horological roots, and established his own manufacture in 1989. despite his limited output, his work was incredibly varied, from double ellipse cases to sharply executed pinstripe guilloché dials. roth was one of the key brand names of independent watchmaking in the 1990s, alongside franck muller, roger dubuis and francois paul journe, among others. david candaux the brand's journey officially began in 2017, but watchmaker david candaux spent his early career working on complex pieces with the likes of jaeger lecoultre, developing his skills as both an engineer and designer. the holder of multiple watchmaking patents, candaux's penchant for innovation is clear throughout his watches, such as with his signature inclined tourbillon. de bethune in 2002, david zanetta and denis flageollet joined forces to establish de bethune, united by their shared vision of what contemporary watchmaking could look like. making a limited number of watches a year, the brand has combined time honoured skills with cutting edge technology, to carefully craft each piece entirely within the watchmaker’s atelier in the swiss town of sainte croix. flageollet in charge of the technical and mechanical side of things, whilst zanetta brings his input to the design and aesthetics. delaloye when nicolas delaloye first charted an independent path in 2001, his first order of business was to devise a calibre of his own. while he procured the gear train from a vintage ébauche   the as1130   the rest of the calibre bore his unique vision. the process of development took three years. he paired it with a classical case, of the sort he had experience working with at patek philippe during his several stints with the brand. derek pratt one of the unsung heroes of british watchmaking, derek pratt dedicated his life to the pursuit of excellence in traditional watchmaking techniques. he began his career in restoration, before going on to work with peter baumberger to revive the danish brand, urban jürgensen. the pinnacle of his career was his work on the harrison h4, a passion project which was eventually completed by frodsham & co. after pratt’s passing. ferdinand berthoud ferdinand berthoud was one of the most prominent names in the context of 18th century watchmaking and science. he was especially motivated to creating robust and reliable marine chronometres to aid global exploration. berthoud’s marine clock no. 6 and no. 8 were sea tested in 1768, and the results were so positive that he was awarded the royal charter of clockmaker and mechanic to the french king and his navy. florent lecomte florent lecomte began his career as a teacher at the lycee edgar faure in morteau in 2006, where he specialised in mechanical watches with complications. some of lecomte's pupils have included the likes of remy cools and théo auffret, all of whom have struck out on independent careers. lecomte's own career as an independent began in 2020, during lockdown. as of today, he has produced three different watch series in limited numbers f. p. journe as a talented young watchmaker, f. p. journe restored clocks and pocket watches from janvier and breguet, completed commissions from asprey and cartier, all while working on his own projects. one day, his friend camille berthet suggested a subscription model. the souscription tourbillon was born, with twenty close clients and friends of the watchmaker committing a deposit that allowed the f.p. journe manufacture to flourish. franck muller franck muller began his watchmaking career restoring watches for collectors and auction houses, including for the patek philippe collection, gradually building a reputation for his skill in restoring complicated timepieces. in 1984, when tourbillons weren’t in favour, and were rarely found in wristwatches, muller designed his first exposed, dial side tourbillon watch. muller finally launched his eponymous brand in 1991, with the headline “master of complications”. his work is a spectrum, characterised by the classically styled pieces made in his earliest days, to the modern, tonneau shaped cases and experimental dials. george daniels dr. george daniels is recognised as one of the greatest watchmakers of the 20th century. in 1981, he received an mbe for his services to horology, along with a cbe in 2010   the first watchmaker ever to receive such an honour. one of his most noteworthy contributions to watchmaking was the invention of the co axial escapement, designed to improve a mechanism’s long term performance by radically changing the nature of its inner workings. gerald genta gérald genta is a designer that needs little introduction to those in the watch world. perhaps most famous for designing the royal oak and nautilus pieces for audemars piguet and patek philippe respectively, genta's designs also included the universal geneve polerouter, the iwc ingenieur, and the seiko locomotive. the last piece pays tribute to some of his most successful designs, and genta had a very close relationship with the brand's president, reijiro hattori. girard perregaux a distinguished swiss watchmaker, boasts a rich heritage dating back to 1791, making it one of the oldest and most revered names in the horology world. renowned for its commitment to precision, craftsmanship, and innovation, girard perregaux has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking excellence. greubel forsey robert greubel and stephen forsey met during their time at audemars piguet renaud & papi in the early 1990s. they launched greubel forsey in 2004, introducing the double tourbillon 30° at baselworld, and making their mark as specialists of complicated watches. some of their notable watches include the handmade 1, which won the men’s complication watch prize at the gphg awards in 2020, as well as the grande sonnerie, their most complicated watch to date, with 935 components. grönefeld bart and tim grönefeld grew up steeped in horology at their grandfather’s workshop, and later, cut their teeth at famed complications specialist renaud et papi, alongside notable contemporaries such as stephen forsey and stepan sarpaneva. producing no more than 70 watches a year, the grönefeld brothers create extremely high quality pieces, having commanded the admiration and respect of m. philippe dufour, amongst others. haldimann only making several dozen watches a year, haldimann horology is a true independent manufacture. honing the horological arts since 1642, haldimann watches are crafted entirely within the watchmakers’ workshop in the swiss town of thun. one of the last remaining ateliers in the world capable of producing and restoring almost everything by hand, the essence of beat haldimann’s approach to his work, is the synthesis of art and technology. h. moser & cie. h. moser & cie has long established roots within the words of horology, with the manufacture originally founded by in 1828 in st. petersburg, russia. during this period, heinrich moser’s clients included russian princes, as well as members of the russian imperial court. many years later, in 2005, the brand h. moser & cie was relaunched, with heinrich moser's great grandson involved in the project.since then, h. moser & cie has created watches which combine classic styling, with a number of innovative features. jaeger lecoultre during the 20th century, jaeger lecoultre was known for producing its own wristwatches, such as the reverso and the memovox, as well as creating an imaginative array of horological objects. with a wide range of different designs   from leather bound travel clocks to miniature key pendants which tell the time   they were all powered by the manufacture’s own calibers. their mechanical prowess was such that their movements also found themselves in the watches of patek philippe, audemars piguet and vacheron constantin, among others. jean daniel nicolas since leaving his eponymous brand, roth has continued to produce watches, under the name of jean daniel nicolas   a combination of his son’s name, his own and that of his wife. all three of them work together in producing a small handful of pieces, with his wife also trained as a watchmaker and his son apprenticing under his father. under this new venture, roth has narrowed his focus, on what matters the most to him. he only produces about two to three pieces a year, all of them displaying an impressive level of craft and hand finished details. jean baptiste viot french watchmaker jean baptiste viot began his career in restoration, first working at the international museum of watchmaking in la chaux de fonds, then briefly at vacheron constantin, before moving to breguet in 1998, where he spent eight years. after that, viot decided to strike out on his own, as an independent watchmaker. his first watches used the peseux 260 movements, famously also used in kari voutilainen’s observatoire pieces. completely handmade, viot’s watches draw inspiration from 18th and 19th century french horology. kikuchi nakagawa kikuchi nakagawa was founded by watchmaker tomonari nakagawa and designer yusuke kikuchi in 2012, when the pair met in paris. at the time, kikuchi was attending watchmaking school and would later go on to work in watch repair. meanwhile, nakagawa had originally trained to be a swordsmith, later applying those metal work skills to watchmaking and finding employment with citizen watch co. their shared sensibilities and appreciation of watchmaking from the 1930s and metal finishing are evident in the brand's work. krayon krayon’s approach to watchmaking is deeply grounded in mathematics, with the brand being helmed by designer and engineer rémi maillat. rendering complex concepts into metal, their watches the everywhere and anywhere are true mechanical feats, transforming the world of complications as we know it. laurent ferrier prior to starting his eponymous brand, laurent ferrier worked at patek philippe for four decades, with his final position as creative director. particularly reminiscent of classic patek designs, we see a focus on maintaining tradition while creating watches that are contemporary and relevant. laurent ferrier is suited to the collector who appreciates excellent craftsmanship combined with modern aesthetics. lang & heyne located in dresden, germany, the brand was created in the early 2000s by watchmakers marco lang and mirko heyne. in the earlier years, the manufacture grew to a team of just 10 watchmakers, producing 30 watches each year. drawing inspiration from the fürstenzug, a mural depicting the historical rulers of saxony, their style adheres closely to classical aesthetics. while the watches range from elegant time only pieces to impressively complicated examples. minerva minerva’s story begins in the year 1858, founded by brothers charles and hyppolite robert, in the small town of villeret, located in the canton of bern, switzerland. the company   initially called h & c. robert watch co.   started off by using third party movements, which they built into pocket watches. however, the brand soon came into its own and began to produce watch movements in 1895. moritz grossmann in 2008, watchmaker christine hutter resurrected the historic name and the brand started producing watches from 2010. the brand today is known for its highly professional atelier, fine finishing and limited output. mb&f mb&f’s philosophy is simple   the reinterpretation of traditional, high quality craftsmanship into three dimensional kinetic sculptures. the company’s relationship with many of haute horology’s finest independent movement makers, coupled with careful choosing of its suppliers has led to the development of visionary modern timepieces, celebrated for their exceptional design and mechanical brilliance. a collected man is an official preowned approved partner for mb&f. oilean watchmaker john mcgonigle founded his independent brand oileán   pronounced ‘il awn’ and meaning island in irish   in 2020. the name oileán reflects not just the watchmaker’s heritage but the fact that he works by himself. although mcgonigle initially began his career in switzerland with his brother, stephen mcgonigle, his desire to explore his own watchmaking philosophy and aesthetic led john to become independent. parmigiani fleurier first introduced in 1996 by watchmaker michel parmigiani, the brand takes its name from its founder, parmigiani, and the village in which it was founded   fleurier, switzerland. parmigiani made a name for himself in the 1970s as a master restorer of vintage clocks and watches, and his workshop was where kari voutilainen first began his own watchmaking journey. backed by the sandoz family foundation, parmigiani was able to begin creating original pieces, and the brand now boasts a rich 25 years of watchmaking. pascal coyon based in the south western french port city of bayonne, pascal coyon worked as a watch and clock repairer before he embarked on an ambitious goal of creating his own chronometre wristwatch offered at an affordable price point. he was a student of the famed lycée edgar faure in morteau, which has produced many of france's best watchmakers. patek philippe patek philippe, the blue chip of the industry, has long been seen as the premier manufacturer of haute horlogerie timepieces. a patek philippe reflects a certain discretion and quiet satisfaction in the wearer, preferring tastefulness and subtlety, with no pretense. ranging from a simple, time only calatrava, to the ultra complicated perpetual calendar chronograph, there is certainly a patek philippe for everyone. paul gerber one of the earliest ahci members, paul gerber began crafting watches in his zurich workshop in 1976. his work is a spectrum of traditional aesthetics and strikingly modern style, entirely made by hand. alongside his own creations, gerber has also worked on pieces such as the louis elysée piguet grande complication, at one time the most complicated wristwatch in the world, in addition to helping ludwig oeschlin develop and prototype the mih watch, an annual calendar with just nine parts. petermann bédat gaël petermann and florian bédat's story, from meeting at the geneva watchmaking school to working closely with dominique renaud of renaud papi, then gradually building their brand’s vision, is one of partnership and collaboration. a collected man is honoured to be the exclusive european retailer for the independent watchmakers. if you would like to be notified about future projects, please register your interest. to find out more about petermann bédat, you can watch our film with the young watchmakers. philippe dufour based in his atelier in la vallée de joux, switzerland, monsieur dufour is a master of grand complications, basing his designs on the traditional movement architecture and artistic expressions of the vallée de joux from 1850 to 1920. with a long stretching career and recent record breaking auction result, philippe dufour is the undisputed king of finishing. learn more about the grande et petite sonnerie, the most expensive wristwatch ever sold publicly by an independent watchmaker here. a collected man is the approved re seller of pre owned dufour watches. raúl pagès spanish watchmaker raúl pagès was born in la chaux de fonds, and at the beginning of his career as a watchmaker, he worked in restoration with parmigiani fleurier and patek philippe, before moving on to start his own brand in 2010. his early experiments included automations, while his first watch was the soberly onyx, based on a vintage cyma movement. the rp1 régulateur à détente was his first piece created entirely from scratch, and in 2024, he won the inaugural lvmh independent creatives prize for his work. ressence a combination of the words renaissance and essentiel, ressence is a young, independent brand with a unique approach to contemporary watchmaking. their motto “built on the expertise of yesterday, crafted with today’s technology, our watches are designed for tomorrow”   very much speaks to this, innovative identity. founded by the belgian industrial designer, m. benoît mintiens in 2010, all of the brand’s watches carry ever changing regulator dials, in which the sub dials and main disc continually orbit one another. richard mille founded by monsieur mille in 1999 in collaboration with the famed movement manufacture audemars piguet renaud & papi, richard mille has demonstrated from the very beginning their taste for experimental, high tech watches. when they released the rm001 tourbillon in 2001, it was just a hint of where the brand would progress over the subsequent decades, taking inspiration from the worlds of formula one, aerospace and automotive research. with their motto of “a racing machine on the wrist" in mind, richard mille's designs reinforce the concept of performance, while innovation remaining at the core of the brand's identity, both in watchmaking and in materials science. roger dubuis in the '80s, roger dubuis left patek philippe to establish his own workshop, dedicating himself to the restoration of older pieces. in 1995, following a partnership with businessman carlos dias, he would establish his own eponymous brand. dubuis' attempt to rival patek philippe themselves became one of the reasons for his acclaim   his pieces channelled the traditional geneva watchmaking that patek philippe embodied with more stylistic flair. roger w. smith roger w. smith obe is recognised as one of the greatest watchmakers of the modern era. the only apprentice and collaborator of the late dr. george daniels, they worked on a number of projects together, from the millennium series to tourbillon wristwatches. roger w. smith has since become the flag bearer for english watchmaking, building on the work of his mentor, but also on past luminaries like tompion, graham, and arnold. romain gauthier romain gauthier’s entry into watchmaking was somewhat unconventional. despite his upbringing in the vallée de joux, he initially chose to pursue his love for music and musical equipment as an area of study. gauthier then pivoted, studying precision mechanics and then machine tool construction. whilst still at françois golay sa, gauthier developed his first movement, which he worked on for over two years, using his employer's machines in evenings and weekends. he then went on to launch his eponymous brand, with guidance from other independent watchmakers such as philippe dufour. sarpaneva as the son of jewellery designer pentti sarpaneva, and nephew of the internationally acclaimed designer and artist timo sarpaneva, it was always the case that stepan’s career would take a creative direction. educated at the finnish school of watchmaking and then wostep, sarpaneva was formed in helsinki, finland, in 2003. inspired by his time at manufactures including piaget, parmigiani, vianney halter and christophe claret, stepan demonstrates his passion for the craft in each watch to come out of the workshop. speake marin peter speake is an english watchmaker whose career spans the uk and switzerland. starting out at somlo antiques, speake became a specialist restorer of antique and vintage timepieces. between 1996 and 2000 he worked for renaud et papi in le locle switzerland, after which he developed the brand speake marin with daniela marin. he remained active with the brand until 2017, then spent another 5 years in horological education. in july of 2022, speake established ps horology. sylvain pinaud sylvain pinaud is no stranger to the watch industry, having worked within it in various capacities before starting his independent brand. his experience is evident in his watches, demonstrating mastery of craft and a sharp focus on carefully chosen details. pinaud’s style combines the industrial with the openworked, turning the tables on convention. thomas prescher located in ipsach, switzerland, thomas prescher was a naval officer before he decided to become a watchmaker. he spent some time at audemars piguet, iwc, and gübelin, and was the director of production at blancpain. he founded his independent brand in 2002, and has become known for his work with tourbillons, as well as his unique commissions for clients. ulysse nardin created in 1846, ulysse nardin has always been inspired by seafaring, creating chronometres of both the marine and pocket variety in these early days. after the quartz crisis, the brand was then revived in 1983 by rolf schnyder, former jaeger lecoultre executive, and watchmaker ludwig oechslin, before becoming a subsidiary of the french group kering in 2014. the association with seafaring has remained a constant, with the brand often serving as the official supplier to navies around the world. urban jürgensen urban jürgensen have a rich and varied history, dating back to the late 18th century. the manufactures namesake, urban jürgensen (1776 1830), along with his father jürgen jürgensen have long been credited with introducing the watch industry to denmark. shortly after the birth of his son in 1776, jürgen jürgensen moved to le locle in switzerland to work with jacques frédéric houriet, laying the foundations for a danish swiss connection which still exists over 240 years later. urwerk urwerk is an award winning watch brand based in geneva, switzerland, and is known for its avant garde designs and new indications and complications. founded in 1995 by watchmaker brothers thomas and felix baumgartner (thomas baumgartner left in 2004) along with the artist and designer martin frei, they have quickly become a leader in innovative independent watchmaking. vacheron constantin vacheron constantin boast a lengthy and uninterrupted history of manufacture, dating back to 1755. the firm’s founder, jean marc vacheron, was one of many cabinotier watchmakers who specialised in the production of complex components. upon partnering with françois constantin, vacheron (the brand) became widely known for upholding the finest horological traditions   enamelling, piercing, engraving and engine turning. vianney halter from a young age, vianney halter was fascinated by mechanics, science fiction, and space exploration. he enrolled in the ecole horlogère de paris, at the age of fourteen, and after graduating, spent the subsequent decade restoring vintage clocks and watches. halter was then invited to join tha èbauche, a collaborative movement manufacture, by f. p. journe. in 1998, halter unveiled his first watch, the antiqua, whose futuristic aesthetics cemented the style which halter has come to be associated with since. voutilainen after a period spent restoring some of the finest watches from the last three centuries, kari voutilainen became an independent watchmaker. his work has been welcomed with great acclaim, on account of its unique aesthetic and quality. every component in his watches involves manual labour, from adjusting tolerances to polishing and angling. his efforts have been recognised with more than a half dozen awards from the gphg (grand prix d’horlogerie de genève). winnerl helmed by bernhard zwinz, a watchmaker highly regarded amongst fellow independent makers, his work is produced under the name of his austrian compatriot, 19th century watchmaker j.th. winnerl. we are great admirers of zwinz’s craft and his dedication to perfection. creating his watches entirely by hand, his experience and talent holds the promise of many exciting projects to come. george daniels philippe dufour roger w. smith voutilainen an afternoon with luca soprana november 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 looking back to look forward at the musée atelier audemars piguet october 2024 the morteau makers: what’s next for alexandre hazemann & victor monnin? september 2024 the morteau makers: what drives théo auffret? august 2024 the story of atelier de chronométrie june 2024 the art of movement finishing february 2024 the philosophies of stephen mcdonnell january 2024 the philosophies of felix baumgartner and martin frei december 2023 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 a collector’s guide: early f.p. journe, chapter one may 2020 a collector's guide: patek philippe 3800 nautilus august 2020 a collector’s guide: parmigiani fleurier december 2022 a collector's guide: asymmetrical watches february 2023 a collector's guide: the datograph december 2021 a collectors guide: the patek philippe 3940 april 2020 collectors guide   early daniel roth february 2021 what is independent watchmaking? december 2021 discovering bernhard zwinz march 2023 an afternoon with raúl pagès june 2022 a brief history of de bethune june 2022 the watchmaking journey of kari voutilainen september 2021 the art of dial finishing september 2021 the art of movement finishing february 2024 has minimalism in watch design gone too far? may 2022 the bare bones of the skeletonised watch december 2021 rediscovering the romance of travel clocks september 2023 what made the royal oak a cultural icon? june 2023 can we compare art and watches? october 2021 why does provenance in watches matter? july 2022 how five collectors under 30 approach watches august 2021 a potted history of japanese whisky collecting december 2021 the philosophies of ross lovegrove february 2022 interview: torafu architects july 2022 an afternoon with luca soprana november 2024 the philosophies of stephen mcdonnell january 2024 a closer look at collecting with doo sik lew june 2022 george daniels the collector july 2021 interview: jason jules february 2022 one watch two watch three watch four watch six watch eight watch cork grained leather nubuck saffiano slim x straps/travel big x bracelets/home folios rolls pouches boxes beige taupe brown green grey blue black nubuck suede grained leather smooth leather saffiano regular length short length 18 x 14 18 x 16 19 x 16 19 x 18 20 x 16 20 x 18 20 x 19 (curved) 21 x 16 22 x 18 boxed stitch open stitch top stitch straight end straps curved end straps standard springbars quick release springbars beige grey taupe brown green blue black clocks barware for your study & desk books & art timeless luxury vintage hermès menu suggestions pages collections products a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 a collector’s guide: early f.p. journe, chapter one may 2020 a collector's guide: the datograph december 2021 collectors guide   early daniel roth february 2021 a collector’s guide: parmigiani fleurier december 2022 a collectors guide: the patek philippe 3940 april 2020 akrivia & rexhep rexhepi petermann bédat winnerl sylvain pinaud kari voutilainen philippe dufour roger w. smith mb&f sylvain pinaud   origine september 2024 mb&f   pre owned approved partnership july 2024 raúl pagès   rp1 march 2024 winnerl   tremblage july 2023 petermann bédat   reference 2941 march 2023 roger w. smith series 1   unique piece november 2022 baltic   mr01 blue roulette september 2022 rexhep rexhepi   cc ii may 2022 a. lange & söhne a. lange & söhne was originally founded in 1845 in the town of glashütte as a pocket watch manufacturer but was only truly revived in the early ‘90s. famed for the architecture and exquisite finishing of their movements, even philippe dufour himself once stated that a. lange & söhne makes the best chronographs in the world. akrivia & rexhep rexhepi akrivia was established in 2012 by brilliant young watchmaker rexhep rexhepi. having started his horological career at the tender age of fourteen, on graduating, he went on to lead the complications team at the movement manufacturer, bnb concept. learn more andersen genève svend andersen worked at gübelin and the patek philippe complications department before striking out on his own in 1980 to start andersen genève. notably, andersen is also the co founder of the ahci alongside vincent calabrese, an organisation celebrated for their championing of independent watchmakers. as a brand, andersen genève has focused on developing complications, and are well known for allowing collectors to personalise and create truly unique watches. andreas strehler andreas strehler began his career in 1991 as the head of prototyping at renaud et papi, a swiss movement manufacture where many of today’s most celebrated independent watchmakers cut their teeth. in 1995, he opened his own restoration workshop, then released his first watch, the tischkalender, in 1998. strehler is perhaps best known for his behind the scenes work as a movement developer for numerous brands and projects within the industry, with his own watches displaying incredible ingenuity and unconventional style. atelier de chronométrie hailing from barcelona, atelier de chronométrie is composed of several collaborators, and is a rising star in the field of independent watchmaking. their creations draw inspiration from coveted mid century pieces of the past, with a distinctly modern twist. the workshop is especially famous for its handmade approach, and they produce bespoke pieces in highly limited numbers, capturing the elegance of a golden age of watchmaking. audemars piguet in 1875, jules louis audemars and edward auguste piguet founded the watchmaking manufacture audemars piguet in le brassus, vallée de joux. since then, the brand has become synonymous with aesthetic refinement, mechanical craft and historic lineage. though audemars piguet is probably most widely recognised for introducing the royal oak in 1972, their contribution to watchmaking is far greater. auffret paris auffret is part of the new generation of independent watchmakers who are transforming the scene. he apprenticed with french watchmaker denis coperchot, and then jean baptiste viot while studying at the lycée edgar faure in morteau. one of the winners of the young talent competition sponsored by the fhh and f. p. journe in 2018, auffret made waves with his tourbillon à paris, which has since become a subscription series. breguet abraham louis breguet spearheaded a number of inventions, including the over coil hairspring and the tourbillon, which he first invented in 1795 and patented in 1801. it is no coincidence that he remains the most cited reference point for accomplished watchmakers centuries later, from george daniels to françois paul journe. cartier founded in 1847 by louis françois cartier, the creativity and impact of cartier over the course of its history is undeniable. king edward vii once described it as “the jeweller of kings, and the king of jewellers.” throughout the 20th century, cartier’s global reach expanded, and the french jeweller has left its mark on the world of horology, perpetually creating elegant, refined timepieces, while remaining faithful to its core design principles. charles frodsham charles frodsham & co is the oldest continuously trading firm of chronometer manufacturers in the world, dating back to 1834. renowned for making marine chronometers, clocks, and pocket watches for the likes of j.p. morgan and the british navy. today, the brand carries forward this heritage by restoring historic technical timepieces and, much more recently, creating their own wristwatches. christian klings based in dresden, germany, christian klings has dedicated his career to the mastery of technical and artistic watchmaking. his work is focused on developing traditional mechanical escapement technology while keeping the spirit of traditional watchmaking alive, creating everything by hand. as a result, the watchmaker has only created a few dozen timepieces over the course of his career. klings’s inventions include the intriguingly named “mosquito” and “desmodromic” escapements, while his watches are more typically special commissions for true collectors. credor originating in 1974, the credor line is a subsidiary of seiko, and possesses an entirely different persona from its more well known parent brand. made at seiko’s micro artist studio in shiojiri, the workshop consulted with philippe dufour, one of the most talented independent watchmakers working today, to help establish the practices and techniques behind the creation of the pieces that now bear the credor name. cyril brivet naudot french watchmaker cyril brivet naudot started working on the eccentricity at the age of 29. he had just graduated from the école polytechnique fédérale de lausanne in switzerland, but it could be said that the kind of watchmaking he would pursue was influenced by his time at the lycée edgar faure in mortau in his native france. brivet naudot combines this respect for tradition   almost all elements are hand made at his manufacture without the use of cnc   with a technical expertise, that has seen him reimagine the eccentric escapement. czapek the czapek and cie brand dates back to 1845, launched by franciszek czapek. at the peak of their success, the brand catered to figures such as napoleon, and had boutiques in locations such as the place vendome in paris. after a period of dormancy, the brand was revived in 2015, and has since been known for their classically styled yet boldly designed watches. daniel roth daniel roth was born into a family with deep horological roots, and established his own manufacture in 1989. despite his limited output, his work was incredibly varied, from double ellipse cases to sharply executed pinstripe guilloché dials. roth was one of the key brand names of independent watchmaking in the 1990s, alongside franck muller, roger dubuis and francois paul journe, among others. david candaux the brand's journey officially began in 2017, but watchmaker david candaux spent his early career working on complex pieces with the likes of jaeger lecoultre, developing his skills as both an engineer and designer. the holder of multiple watchmaking patents, candaux's penchant for innovation is clear throughout his watches, such as with his signature inclined tourbillon. de bethune in 2002, david zanetta and denis flageollet joined forces to establish de bethune, united by their shared vision of what contemporary watchmaking could look like. making a limited number of watches a year, the brand has combined time honoured skills with cutting edge technology, to carefully craft each piece entirely within the watchmaker’s atelier in the swiss town of sainte croix. flageollet in charge of the technical and mechanical side of things, whilst zanetta brings his input to the design and aesthetics. delaloye when nicolas delaloye first charted an independent path in 2001, his first order of business was to devise a calibre of his own. while he procured the gear train from a vintage ébauche   the as1130   the rest of the calibre bore his unique vision. the process of development took three years. he paired it with a classical case, of the sort he had experience working with at patek philippe during his several stints with the brand. derek pratt one of the unsung heroes of british watchmaking, derek pratt dedicated his life to the pursuit of excellence in traditional watchmaking techniques. he began his career in restoration, before going on to work with peter baumberger to revive the danish brand, urban jürgensen. the pinnacle of his career was his work on the harrison h4, a passion project which was eventually completed by frodsham & co. after pratt’s passing. ferdinand berthoud ferdinand berthoud was one of the most prominent names in the context of 18th century watchmaking and science. he was especially motivated to creating robust and reliable marine chronometres to aid global exploration. berthoud’s marine clock no. 6 and no. 8 were sea tested in 1768, and the results were so positive that he was awarded the royal charter of clockmaker and mechanic to the french king and his navy. florent lecomte florent lecomte began his career as a teacher at the lycee edgar faure in morteau in 2006, where he specialised in mechanical watches with complications. some of lecomte's pupils have included the likes of remy cools and théo auffret, all of whom have struck out on independent careers. lecomte's own career as an independent began in 2020, during lockdown. as of today, he has produced three different watch series in limited numbers f. p. journe as a talented young watchmaker, f. p. journe restored clocks and pocket watches from janvier and breguet, completed commissions from asprey and cartier, all while working on his own projects. one day, his friend camille berthet suggested a subscription model. the souscription tourbillon was born, with twenty close clients and friends of the watchmaker committing a deposit that allowed the f.p. journe manufacture to flourish. franck muller franck muller began his watchmaking career restoring watches for collectors and auction houses, including for the patek philippe collection, gradually building a reputation for his skill in restoring complicated timepieces. in 1984, when tourbillons weren’t in favour, and were rarely found in wristwatches, muller designed his first exposed, dial side tourbillon watch. muller finally launched his eponymous brand in 1991, with the headline “master of complications”. his work is a spectrum, characterised by the classically styled pieces made in his earliest days, to the modern, tonneau shaped cases and experimental dials. george daniels dr. george daniels is recognised as one of the greatest watchmakers of the 20th century. in 1981, he received an mbe for his services to horology, along with a cbe in 2010   the first watchmaker ever to receive such an honour. one of his most noteworthy contributions to watchmaking was the invention of the co axial escapement, designed to improve a mechanism’s long term performance by radically changing the nature of its inner workings. gerald genta gérald genta is a designer that needs little introduction to those in the watch world. perhaps most famous for designing the royal oak and nautilus pieces for audemars piguet and patek philippe respectively, genta's designs also included the universal geneve polerouter, the iwc ingenieur, and the seiko locomotive. the last piece pays tribute to some of his most successful designs, and genta had a very close relationship with the brand's president, reijiro hattori. girard perregaux a distinguished swiss watchmaker, boasts a rich heritage dating back to 1791, making it one of the oldest and most revered names in the horology world. renowned for its commitment to precision, craftsmanship, and innovation, girard perregaux has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking excellence. greubel forsey robert greubel and stephen forsey met during their time at audemars piguet renaud & papi in the early 1990s. they launched greubel forsey in 2004, introducing the double tourbillon 30° at baselworld, and making their mark as specialists of complicated watches. some of their notable watches include the handmade 1, which won the men’s complication watch prize at the gphg awards in 2020, as well as the grande sonnerie, their most complicated watch to date, with 935 components. grönefeld bart and tim grönefeld grew up steeped in horology at their grandfather’s workshop, and later, cut their teeth at famed complications specialist renaud et papi, alongside notable contemporaries such as stephen forsey and stepan sarpaneva. producing no more than 70 watches a year, the grönefeld brothers create extremely high quality pieces, having commanded the admiration and respect of m. philippe dufour, amongst others. haldimann only making several dozen watches a year, haldimann horology is a true independent manufacture. honing the horological arts since 1642, haldimann watches are crafted entirely within the watchmakers’ workshop in the swiss town of thun. one of the last remaining ateliers in the world capable of producing and restoring almost everything by hand, the essence of beat haldimann’s approach to his work, is the synthesis of art and technology. h. moser & cie. h. moser & cie has long established roots within the words of horology, with the manufacture originally founded by in 1828 in st. petersburg, russia. during this period, heinrich moser’s clients included russian princes, as well as members of the russian imperial court. many years later, in 2005, the brand h. moser & cie was relaunched, with heinrich moser's great grandson involved in the project.since then, h. moser & cie has created watches which combine classic styling, with a number of innovative features. jaeger lecoultre during the 20th century, jaeger lecoultre was known for producing its own wristwatches, such as the reverso and the memovox, as well as creating an imaginative array of horological objects. with a wide range of different designs   from leather bound travel clocks to miniature key pendants which tell the time   they were all powered by the manufacture’s own calibers. their mechanical prowess was such that their movements also found themselves in the watches of patek philippe, audemars piguet and vacheron constantin, among others. jean daniel nicolas since leaving his eponymous brand, roth has continued to produce watches, under the name of jean daniel nicolas   a combination of his son’s name, his own and that of his wife. all three of them work together in producing a small handful of pieces, with his wife also trained as a watchmaker and his son apprenticing under his father. under this new venture, roth has narrowed his focus, on what matters the most to him. he only produces about two to three pieces a year, all of them displaying an impressive level of craft and hand finished details. jean baptiste viot french watchmaker jean baptiste viot began his career in restoration, first working at the international museum of watchmaking in la chaux de fonds, then briefly at vacheron constantin, before moving to breguet in 1998, where he spent eight years. after that, viot decided to strike out on his own, as an independent watchmaker. his first watches used the peseux 260 movements, famously also used in kari voutilainen’s observatoire pieces. completely handmade, viot’s watches draw inspiration from 18th and 19th century french horology. kikuchi nakagawa kikuchi nakagawa was founded by watchmaker tomonari nakagawa and designer yusuke kikuchi in 2012, when the pair met in paris. at the time, kikuchi was attending watchmaking school and would later go on to work in watch repair. meanwhile, nakagawa had originally trained to be a swordsmith, later applying those metal work skills to watchmaking and finding employment with citizen watch co. their shared sensibilities and appreciation of watchmaking from the 1930s and metal finishing are evident in the brand's work. krayon krayon’s approach to watchmaking is deeply grounded in mathematics, with the brand being helmed by designer and engineer rémi maillat. rendering complex concepts into metal, their watches the everywhere and anywhere are true mechanical feats, transforming the world of complications as we know it. laurent ferrier prior to starting his eponymous brand, laurent ferrier worked at patek philippe for four decades, with his final position as creative director. particularly reminiscent of classic patek designs, we see a focus on maintaining tradition while creating watches that are contemporary and relevant. laurent ferrier is suited to the collector who appreciates excellent craftsmanship combined with modern aesthetics. lang & heyne located in dresden, germany, the brand was created in the early 2000s by watchmakers marco lang and mirko heyne. in the earlier years, the manufacture grew to a team of just 10 watchmakers, producing 30 watches each year. drawing inspiration from the fürstenzug, a mural depicting the historical rulers of saxony, their style adheres closely to classical aesthetics. while the watches range from elegant time only pieces to impressively complicated examples. minerva minerva’s story begins in the year 1858, founded by brothers charles and hyppolite robert, in the small town of villeret, located in the canton of bern, switzerland. the company   initially called h & c. robert watch co.   started off by using third party movements, which they built into pocket watches. however, the brand soon came into its own and began to produce watch movements in 1895. moritz grossmann in 2008, watchmaker christine hutter resurrected the historic name and the brand started producing watches from 2010. the brand today is known for its highly professional atelier, fine finishing and limited output. mb&f mb&f’s philosophy is simple   the reinterpretation of traditional, high quality craftsmanship into three dimensional kinetic sculptures. the company’s relationship with many of haute horology’s finest independent movement makers, coupled with careful choosing of its suppliers has led to the development of visionary modern timepieces, celebrated for their exceptional design and mechanical brilliance. a collected man is an official preowned approved partner for mb&f. oilean watchmaker john mcgonigle founded his independent brand oileán   pronounced ‘il awn’ and meaning island in irish   in 2020. the name oileán reflects not just the watchmaker’s heritage but the fact that he works by himself. although mcgonigle initially began his career in switzerland with his brother, stephen mcgonigle, his desire to explore his own watchmaking philosophy and aesthetic led john to become independent. parmigiani fleurier first introduced in 1996 by watchmaker michel parmigiani, the brand takes its name from its founder, parmigiani, and the village in which it was founded   fleurier, switzerland. parmigiani made a name for himself in the 1970s as a master restorer of vintage clocks and watches, and his workshop was where kari voutilainen first began his own watchmaking journey. backed by the sandoz family foundation, parmigiani was able to begin creating original pieces, and the brand now boasts a rich 25 years of watchmaking. pascal coyon based in the south western french port city of bayonne, pascal coyon worked as a watch and clock repairer before he embarked on an ambitious goal of creating his own chronometre wristwatch offered at an affordable price point. he was a student of the famed lycée edgar faure in morteau, which has produced many of france's best watchmakers. patek philippe patek philippe, the blue chip of the industry, has long been seen as the premier manufacturer of haute horlogerie timepieces. a patek philippe reflects a certain discretion and quiet satisfaction in the wearer, preferring tastefulness and subtlety, with no pretense. ranging from a simple, time only calatrava, to the ultra complicated perpetual calendar chronograph, there is certainly a patek philippe for everyone. paul gerber one of the earliest ahci members, paul gerber began crafting watches in his zurich workshop in 1976. his work is a spectrum of traditional aesthetics and strikingly modern style, entirely made by hand. alongside his own creations, gerber has also worked on pieces such as the louis elysée piguet grande complication, at one time the most complicated wristwatch in the world, in addition to helping ludwig oeschlin develop and prototype the mih watch, an annual calendar with just nine parts. petermann bédat gaël petermann and florian bédat's story, from meeting at the geneva watchmaking school to working closely with dominique renaud of renaud papi, then gradually building their brand’s vision, is one of partnership and collaboration. a collected man is honoured to be the exclusive european retailer for the independent watchmakers. if you would like to be notified about future projects, please register your interest. to find out more about petermann bédat, you can watch our film with the young watchmakers. philippe dufour based in his atelier in la vallée de joux, switzerland, monsieur dufour is a master of grand complications, basing his designs on the traditional movement architecture and artistic expressions of the vallée de joux from 1850 to 1920. with a long stretching career and recent record breaking auction result, philippe dufour is the undisputed king of finishing. learn more about the grande et petite sonnerie, the most expensive wristwatch ever sold publicly by an independent watchmaker here. a collected man is the approved re seller of pre owned dufour watches. raúl pagès spanish watchmaker raúl pagès was born in la chaux de fonds, and at the beginning of his career as a watchmaker, he worked in restoration with parmigiani fleurier and patek philippe, before moving on to start his own brand in 2010. his early experiments included automations, while his first watch was the soberly onyx, based on a vintage cyma movement. the rp1 régulateur à détente was his first piece created entirely from scratch, and in 2024, he won the inaugural lvmh independent creatives prize for his work. ressence a combination of the words renaissance and essentiel, ressence is a young, independent brand with a unique approach to contemporary watchmaking. their motto “built on the expertise of yesterday, crafted with today’s technology, our watches are designed for tomorrow”   very much speaks to this, innovative identity. founded by the belgian industrial designer, m. benoît mintiens in 2010, all of the brand’s watches carry ever changing regulator dials, in which the sub dials and main disc continually orbit one another. richard mille founded by monsieur mille in 1999 in collaboration with the famed movement manufacture audemars piguet renaud & papi, richard mille has demonstrated from the very beginning their taste for experimental, high tech watches. when they released the rm001 tourbillon in 2001, it was just a hint of where the brand would progress over the subsequent decades, taking inspiration from the worlds of formula one, aerospace and automotive research. with their motto of “a racing machine on the wrist" in mind, richard mille's designs reinforce the concept of performance, while innovation remaining at the core of the brand's identity, both in watchmaking and in materials science. roger dubuis in the '80s, roger dubuis left patek philippe to establish his own workshop, dedicating himself to the restoration of older pieces. in 1995, following a partnership with businessman carlos dias, he would establish his own eponymous brand. dubuis' attempt to rival patek philippe themselves became one of the reasons for his acclaim   his pieces channelled the traditional geneva watchmaking that patek philippe embodied with more stylistic flair. roger w. smith roger w. smith obe is recognised as one of the greatest watchmakers of the modern era. the only apprentice and collaborator of the late dr. george daniels, they worked on a number of projects together, from the millennium series to tourbillon wristwatches. roger w. smith has since become the flag bearer for english watchmaking, building on the work of his mentor, but also on past luminaries like tompion, graham, and arnold. romain gauthier romain gauthier’s entry into watchmaking was somewhat unconventional. despite his upbringing in the vallée de joux, he initially chose to pursue his love for music and musical equipment as an area of study. gauthier then pivoted, studying precision mechanics and then machine tool construction. whilst still at françois golay sa, gauthier developed his first movement, which he worked on for over two years, using his employer's machines in evenings and weekends. he then went on to launch his eponymous brand, with guidance from other independent watchmakers such as philippe dufour. sarpaneva as the son of jewellery designer pentti sarpaneva, and nephew of the internationally acclaimed designer and artist timo sarpaneva, it was always the case that stepan’s career would take a creative direction. educated at the finnish school of watchmaking and then wostep, sarpaneva was formed in helsinki, finland, in 2003. inspired by his time at manufactures including piaget, parmigiani, vianney halter and christophe claret, stepan demonstrates his passion for the craft in each watch to come out of the workshop. speake marin peter speake is an english watchmaker whose career spans the uk and switzerland. starting out at somlo antiques, speake became a specialist restorer of antique and vintage timepieces. between 1996 and 2000 he worked for renaud et papi in le locle switzerland, after which he developed the brand speake marin with daniela marin. he remained active with the brand until 2017, then spent another 5 years in horological education. in july of 2022, speake established ps horology. sylvain pinaud sylvain pinaud is no stranger to the watch industry, having worked within it in various capacities before starting his independent brand. his experience is evident in his watches, demonstrating mastery of craft and a sharp focus on carefully chosen details. pinaud’s style combines the industrial with the openworked, turning the tables on convention. thomas prescher located in ipsach, switzerland, thomas prescher was a naval officer before he decided to become a watchmaker. he spent some time at audemars piguet, iwc, and gübelin, and was the director of production at blancpain. he founded his independent brand in 2002, and has become known for his work with tourbillons, as well as his unique commissions for clients. ulysse nardin created in 1846, ulysse nardin has always been inspired by seafaring, creating chronometres of both the marine and pocket variety in these early days. after the quartz crisis, the brand was then revived in 1983 by rolf schnyder, former jaeger lecoultre executive, and watchmaker ludwig oechslin, before becoming a subsidiary of the french group kering in 2014. the association with seafaring has remained a constant, with the brand often serving as the official supplier to navies around the world. urban jürgensen urban jürgensen have a rich and varied history, dating back to the late 18th century. the manufactures namesake, urban jürgensen (1776 1830), along with his father jürgen jürgensen have long been credited with introducing the watch industry to denmark. shortly after the birth of his son in 1776, jürgen jürgensen moved to le locle in switzerland to work with jacques frédéric houriet, laying the foundations for a danish swiss connection which still exists over 240 years later. urwerk urwerk is an award winning watch brand based in geneva, switzerland, and is known for its avant garde designs and new indications and complications. founded in 1995 by watchmaker brothers thomas and felix baumgartner (thomas baumgartner left in 2004) along with the artist and designer martin frei, they have quickly become a leader in innovative independent watchmaking. vacheron constantin vacheron constantin boast a lengthy and uninterrupted history of manufacture, dating back to 1755. the firm’s founder, jean marc vacheron, was one of many cabinotier watchmakers who specialised in the production of complex components. upon partnering with françois constantin, vacheron (the brand) became widely known for upholding the finest horological traditions   enamelling, piercing, engraving and engine turning. vianney halter from a young age, vianney halter was fascinated by mechanics, science fiction, and space exploration. he enrolled in the ecole horlogère de paris, at the age of fourteen, and after graduating, spent the subsequent decade restoring vintage clocks and watches. halter was then invited to join tha èbauche, a collaborative movement manufacture, by f. p. journe. in 1998, halter unveiled his first watch, the antiqua, whose futuristic aesthetics cemented the style which halter has come to be associated with since. voutilainen after a period spent restoring some of the finest watches from the last three centuries, kari voutilainen became an independent watchmaker. his work has been welcomed with great acclaim, on account of its unique aesthetic and quality. every component in his watches involves manual labour, from adjusting tolerances to polishing and angling. his efforts have been recognised with more than a half dozen awards from the gphg (grand prix d’horlogerie de genève). winnerl helmed by bernhard zwinz, a watchmaker highly regarded amongst fellow independent makers, his work is produced under the name of his austrian compatriot, 19th century watchmaker j.th. winnerl. we are great admirers of zwinz’s craft and his dedication to perfection. creating his watches entirely by hand, his experience and talent holds the promise of many exciting projects to come. george daniels philippe dufour roger w. smith voutilainen an afternoon with luca soprana november 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 looking back to look forward at the musée atelier audemars piguet october 2024 the morteau makers: what’s next for alexandre hazemann & victor monnin? september 2024 the morteau makers: what drives théo auffret? august 2024 the story of atelier de chronométrie june 2024 the art of movement finishing february 2024 the philosophies of stephen mcdonnell january 2024 the philosophies of felix baumgartner and martin frei december 2023 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part one october 2024 a collectors' guide to urwerk : part two october 2024 a collector’s guide: early f.p. journe, chapter one may 2020 a collector's guide: patek philippe 3800 nautilus august 2020 a collector’s guide: parmigiani fleurier december 2022 a collector's guide: asymmetrical watches february 2023 a collector's guide: the datograph december 2021 a collectors guide: the patek philippe 3940 april 2020 collectors guide   early daniel roth february 2021 what is independent watchmaking? december 2021 discovering bernhard zwinz march 2023 an afternoon with raúl pagès june 2022 a brief history of de bethune june 2022 the watchmaking journey of kari voutilainen september 2021 the art of dial finishing september 2021 the art of movement finishing february 2024 has minimalism in watch design gone too far? may 2022 the bare bones of the skeletonised watch december 2021 rediscovering the romance of travel clocks september 2023 what made the royal oak a cultural icon? june 2023 can we compare art and watches? october 2021 why does provenance in watches matter? july 2022 how five collectors under 30 approach watches august 2021 a potted history of japanese whisky collecting december 2021 the philosophies of ross lovegrove february 2022 interview: torafu architects july 2022 an afternoon with luca soprana november 2024 the philosophies of stephen mcdonnell january 2024 a closer look at collecting with doo sik lew june 2022 george daniels the collector july 2021 interview: jason jules february 2022 one watch two watch three watch four watch six watch eight watch cork grained leather nubuck saffiano slim x straps/travel big x bracelets/home folios rolls pouches boxes beige taupe brown green grey blue black nubuck suede grained leather smooth leather saffiano regular length short length 18 x 14 18 x 16 19 x 16 19 x 18 20 x 16 20 x 18 20 x 19 (curved) 21 x 16 22 x 18 boxed stitch open stitch top stitch straight end straps curved end straps standard springbars quick release springbars beige grey taupe brown green blue black clocks barware for your study & desk books & art timeless luxury vintage hermès your bag is currently empty. calculated at checkout we process all orders in gbp. while the content of your bag is currently displayed in gbp, you will checkout using gbp at the most current exchange rate. your bag is currently empty. added to bag calculated at checkout we process all orders in gbp. while the content of your bag is currently displayed in gbp, you will checkout using gbp at the most current exchange rate. for many collectors, it takes years of questionable purchases and mistakes to become what might be described as a refined collector. our latest edition of my watch features alessandro, a young collector in his early 20s who has managed to amass an interesting collection of vintage and independent watches. going by the instagram handle @mr.a, alessandro collects knowledge and pieces with an optimism that many could learn from. give us an idea of where your interest for watches began? you know, i actually have no idea how it happened. i’ve been interested in them for as long as i can remember; i think just one day i started paying attention to them. do you remember having watches as a kid? yeah, i had a customisable disney watch set, which had mickey mouse, donald duck, goofy and some others. it was a digital watch, but the fact that you could change the straps and a sort of cover was just amazing to me. interesting, we haven’t come across those in our research… [laughs] of course, me being me, i would put the donald duck with the mickey mouse strap or one of the others just to mess around with it a bit. i had a bunch of swatches after that, some time only, some chronograph with these big yellow pushers. so, your tastes have changed somewhat since then… yeah, i found a book that my dad owned about rolex among a huge library of books and that got my interest. i didn’t know much about them but… you thought you might have a browse… [laughs] yeah, i started thumbing through pages and thinking these watches were just so beautiful. i saw a cloisonné dial for the first time, the dragon, and i remember just thinking that i wanted a dragon on my watch [laughs]. [laughs] why not… my dad thought it was bizarre that i was so taken with a book about watches and sent me out to play instead. a few years later, i guess i saw that book again and started looking through it, equally as taken as before. i discovered hodinkee around 2010, which began a period of research and would occasionally share things with a few like minded friends at school, like the latest paul newman daytona discovered or whatever. were you buying watches at this time? well, i asked my mum when i was 14 if i could get something and i thought maybe a hamilton was the way to go, but a friend at school had one [laughs]. [laughs] so, naturally you couldn’t buy that one… i decided to buy an all black suunto divers watch, which was digital, but i thought it was a cool design. the other thing was that i was diving a lot at the time, so it was a very practical choice. "they wanted to buy me a rolex, of course, to last me a lifetime but my initial desire was a universal geneve." how did your buying progress? i caught the bug from then on. i was researching all sorts of stuff, mostly vintage pieces and we are approaching my 18th birthday by this point and my parents had decided that they wanted to buy me a watch to celebrate it. did you have anything in particular that you wanted by that point? they wanted to buy me a rolex, of course, to last me a lifetime but my initial desire was a universal geneve. i’d been researching a lot about the brand and had really fallen from them. they were also becoming the talk of a lot of collectors online, so i needed to have one. they’re difficult though, because a lot are refinished, or not functioning correctly. they’re quite the minefield… so, because i spent too much time deciding, my dad went out and pulled the trigger on a rolex for me. [laughs] oh… he bought me a reference 14270 explorer one from the ‘90s. he casually picked that watch up, handed it to me and said, “here, knock yourself out.” [laughs]. and were you pleased about this or...? i was a little annoyed at first, but i was of course incredibly grateful to have been given such a beautiful watch. one of my best friends got the same one at the same time, so it became an awkward thing because i didn’t want him to think i was copying him. we’re beginning to see a trend in your personality here… [laughs] yes and no. i mean, i’m not intentionally just trying to be different, but i just want something that feels special. the fact that it was kind of an ‘easy’ watch made me not really appreciate what it was. some time later, i realised the versatility of it, and wore that to university rather than my delicate ‘40s chronographs, you know? absolutely, one sharp knock can have a dramatic impact on something vintage like that… there came a point where i realised that it was just the perfect watch. you can do anything with it, i mean i can go to the beach, i can go to the mountains, skiing. it’s a true explorers watch. i’m much more cautious with my vintage collection. was your father a big rolex fan? absolutely not [laughs]. he’s a totally self made man and then one day, he started to make some money and decided to reward himself with a rolex. it was the thing you do, you know? right… you do well, you buy a rolex. since the day i was born, he has worn that thing every single day, and i’m jealous of him for it, because he’s a one watch guy. what’s the model he has for his daily? it’s a two tone, steel and gold ‘80s submariner with a blue dial. that dial is literally turning tropical on his wrist; i’ve seen it go from deep blue all the way through purple and it’s now turning turquoise. my mum has bought a couple other watches for him which he will put on if he has to wear a tuxedo or something like that. and that’s it, literally nothing else? well, he bought a 6263 which he never wore [laughs]. [laughs] wow… that thing is pretty much new old stock sitting in the safe, but he pulled the sticker off [laughs], so new old stock isn’t totally accurate. what do you make of the realm these kinds of watches are getting to value wise? it’s very difficult to justify it, i think. in terms of how long you have to work on an entry level salary to buy some of them, it’s just crazy. i’d have to work for two years straight without spending a singly penny [laughs]. "the next thing on my list is a nice gmt i think, they’re still within reach." [laughs] should be easy right? hopefully i’ll inherit one. the next thing on my list is a nice gmt i think, they’re still within reach. it’s a spectacular all rounder… yeah, definitely. let’s talk about how your tastes have changed over the years… i have always had a lot of flexibility where collecting is concerned, i’ve never really had a clear idea of what i want or need to have. one thing i do stick to is finding the best possible example of whatever it is i’m buying, because condition is king. it’s less about volume and more about quality for me. every single element has to be correct. when did independents first cross your radar? i’ve always been a fan of them because they’re similar to the kinds of watches horologists were making 150 or 200 years ago; the approach is very similar. i’m a particular fan of urwerk and mb&f because they make such unique looking creations. this kind of approach, this special approach has been somewhat lost in modern industrialised watchmaking. how so? back in the middle of last century, it was more common for case makers and parts manufacturers to be separated and specialised, which meant that the quality of work was higher. these days, it’s so efficient and in house that these special creations exist less. if you look even at the tones in gold from back in the ‘50s versus today, it looks almost artificial; it’s lacking an indescribable warmth. right… it seems like these days shareholders mean more to brands than customers do. the quality of the enamel work from the past is just on another level. i have an old cashmere jumper which my father gave me from the 1970s made by loro piana, and the quality by comparison to modern examples is a world apart. they invest in growing their own materials, keeping sheep in new zealand because they realised they can elevate the quality. what is there in the watch world that could be comparable to that level of care on an industrial level today? "it would be like rolex investing in a gold mine because the quality of gold was exceptional." good point, nothing comes to mind… it would be like rolex investing in a gold mine because the quality of gold was exceptional. i feel like people would really respond to care like that, but it’s unlikely to happen. so, your urwerk… yes… when did you first discover this model? i had been researching urwerk’s historical models, because as much as i love their newer models visually, they don’t seem to fit my wrist; obviously something quite important. definitely… i was looking through their timeline that they have on their website, and i was aware of a model called the 101, which looks a bit like the millennium falcon from star wars; a kind of asymmetrical shape. ok… this was kind of cool, but then i discovered a slightly different version of this called the 102, which was a symmetrical version of the 101. this to me is the kind of watch that would be a special vintage piece of the future. it has classical influence, but it’s undeniably modern. and how did you find one? i was browsing bring a loupe on hodinkee, and clicked an old link and of course the watch was already sold, but then slap bang in the middle of the page, there’s an advert for stephen hallock. i thought again that, this being the internet, it would be sold, but it was available. got there just in time… yeah, so i didn’t actually know at this point that the 102 model existed with the lugs, so i called urwerk directly in geneva and asked them about it. i told them i was an aspiring owner and that a gentleman named stephen hallock had one for sale, to which they confirmed that the piece was correct and that if anyone was going to have that watch for sale in america, it would be him. [laughs] right… so, right in the middle of my exams, i’m wasting time phoning around independent watch companies and dealers trying to secure this watch. i called stephen and we had a really nice conversation and i decided to pull the trigger on buying it. amazing, and he just shipped it to you? in actual fact, it worked out better that i just fly to la to pick it up, which was a bonus for me because it had been my dream to go to la for a long time. i meet up with him in a little coffee shop somewhere in the arts district and he pulls this watch out. i fell in love with it, it was the turning point in terms of my collecting and it became quickly clear how much i was going to dive headfirst into it all. "the other great part about it was that it was number 13 of the edition, which is my lucky number because i’m born on the 13th." you caught the bug… yes, hook, line and sinker. the other great part about it was that it was number 13 of the edition, which is my lucky number because i’m born on the 13th. the whole thing felt like destiny, it was a dream trip, to pick up my dream watch, which happened to be the perfect number for me. and it’s quite amazing that you were just able to call the brand directly like that; not something most brands will do… yeah, absolutely. it’s kind of the least urwerk urwerk if that makes sense, but it was the beginning of everything where their brand’s visual identity is concerned. it was their first satellite movement with the two discs, which they ultimately ventured into three and four disc versions. right… the nice thing about it is that it’s handmade in martin frei’s garage, literally. i’m lucky to have become friendly with those guys because i really look up to them and admire what they do. definitely, these kind of independent watchmakers are true genius’… i first met them in basel and i just walked up to them and said, “hey guys, look what i have.” [laughs] how did they react? they both said, “no way,” and started talking about how it was made. i actually noticed something to do with the polishing that they were surprised and a little embarrassed that i had noticed, because it was effectively a production flaw. i kind of love it all the more for these kinds of details though. did you ever visit their manufacture? i did, and it was great to see how they create things. owning this watch is like owning a small piece of their history. it’s one of the first 15 pieces they ever made, and to be able to sit with the creators and have a conversation about that is just magical to me. about information © a collected man 2025 for all the latest news, releases and much more, please sign up to newsletter.

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using the gym and pool at the hotel is a must after eating at restaurants all week. swimming is a great option for exercise on a business trip because your bathing suit can dry and does not take a lot of space as opposed to sweaty workout clothes. make sure that one of the two watches you’re traveling with can handle the water. merry christmas to all, every one a pilot’s watch equipped with a flyback chronograph the famous retour en vol function the watch will be produced by numerous manufacturers; breguet, mathey tissot, chronofixe, auricoste, dodane, vixa and airain. from left to right: jan frodeno, ironman world champion, laureus academy member fabian canellara and ceo of iwc chris grainger herr 40mm wide and rising to 7. 8mm off the wrist, the micro rotor is downright lovely to wear. the relatively wide bracelet sits snugly and, once you start recognising the various, under the radar design flourishes that have gone into the pf, it’s hard to keep your eyes off. php / the four 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and precision crafting. the watch roll is okay, not the best i have seen, but does the job, but the rubber strap is very welcome. is familiar, but highly legible and nicely executed. the hour markers and all not to mention its inbuilt perpetual calendar, which will automatically adjust the date, even in leap years. the balance jewels are held in place with shock springs. this particular style of spring is rather tricky to install but i eventually got both sides in place. for the full story of that watch, check out our 2017 auction coverage and reference points on the paul newman daytona. as a matter of fact, getting healthy margins on watches has become increasingly difficult for vintage watch dealers. sorai stands for save our rhino africa india which, aside from sounding like a mistranslation is one of the most important rhino conservation initiatives in the world. given that two thirds of all rhino species are threatened by extinction in the all too near future, it’s an initiative that could do with a little extra funding. spotting all the watches at the concours d’elegance like many of us, he bought straps to change the look of his watches, eventually leading him to establish strapatelier in 2018. eventually there were calendar models in the k series, the thin o matic series and the accumatic series. in 1963 hamilton consolidated models with date complications into the dateline series. there are a models fake omega speedmaster like the accumatic line and omega speedmaster alaska project replica t models and tm models like the thin o matic line. the brand also unveiled a new ceo tasked with leading the company forward in the coming years. and it’s none other than davide cerrato, the former director of montblanc’s watch division and ex head of marketing and product development at tudor. dial close up of the patek philippe calatrava pilot travel time ref 5524r the dial boasts displays replica omega seamaster of both local and home time, sweep seconds, the date attached to local time in a subdial at 6 o’clock, and local and home day/night indicators in apertures. that’s most evident in the british racing green dial and its vintage, bi compax omega speedmaster alaska project replica dial layout. other nods are more subtle   like the yellow index at 59   and the overall shape, which takes cues from the race winning aston martin dbr1/300. it’s a watch you could easily imagine jackie stewart wearing as he passed the finish line. for this adventure speedmaster replica mike horn wears a special edition watch created by panerai, the luminor submersible 1950 3 days gmt pole2pole pam00719 that will be produced in a limited omega speedmaster replica series of 500 units. the combination of the case shape and the material and construction of the strap, which is said to perfectly balance the watch on the wrist, makes the hemipode a very comfortable watch for its size. also for sale is a set of rolex watches dating from the 1930s to the present that are expected to sell for $2, omega watch replica 200 to $112, 000. one set likely to arouse spirited bidding is a collection of seven rolex models that includes a rare daytona “paul newman” from 1971 and a cosmograph daytona model. expect to pay $67, 000 to $101, 000 for the former and $45, 000 to $67, 000 for the latter. jf: my wife’s dad always wore the same timepiece, a 14k gold longines prestige, and i was always checking it out. brought to you by mexican master distiller stella anguiano and award winning singer rita ora, it’s perfect for mixing though also quite sippable on its own. the last 20 bottles of hrh omega seamaster planet ocean replica the prince charles, duke of rothesay’s 1988 30 year old royal lochnagar single malt scotch whisky will go to auction from sunday 3rd to tuesday 12th march online at whisky. auction you’ll also like: mercedes amg drops bonkers twin turbo special g63 edition 55 lexus lx series borrows a little from the toyota landcruiser land rover defender 130 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9010. there are two versions of the argonaut bronze being produced, one with a black dial and a second with a “sargasso” blue dial, a shade used by the navy. as you’d expect from a military watch, the dial is no nonsense and the movement inside is equally serious, the modified calibre 11 1/2’’’ be 92av chronometer, modified from the eta 2892 a2. grand royal barbers sure, some of the best men’s barbershops in sydney look like they’ve been operating since the 1920s, but in reality, most just popped up over the last few years. ask their closest friend what your partner might like. in a string of tweets, david shoebridge, states “we can legalise it! ” followed by a thread of his party plans that state, amongst other things, “if you are an adult and want to chill out with cannabis, you should be able to without the threat of police, violence or imprisonment   without worrying whether you could be sent to prison for smoking a joint with friends. find out more about the chanel j12 at when it 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show submenu for "read" sectionread articles browse short form content that's perfect for a quick read issuu store purchase your next favourite publication categories arts and entertainment religion and spirituality business science education society family and parenting sports food and drink style and fashion health and fitness technology hobbies travel home and garden vehicles pets all categories show submenu for "features" sectionfeatures flipbooks transform any piece of content into a page turning experience. fullscreen sharing deliver a distraction free reading experience with a simple link. embed host your publication on your website or blog with just a few clicks. articles get discovered by sharing your best content as bite sized articles. statistics make data driven decisions to drive reader engagement, subscriptions, and campaigns. teams enable groups of users to work together to streamline your digital publishing. social posts create on brand social posts and articles in minutes. gifs highlight your latest work via email or social media with custom gifs. add links send readers directly to specific items or pages with shopping and web links. video say more by seamlessly including video within your publication. digital sales sell your publications commission free as single issues or ongoing subscriptions. qr codes generate qr codes for your digital content. more features integrations canva create professional content with canva, including presentations, catalogs, and more. hubspot embed, gate, and track issuu content in hubspot marketing campaigns. adobe express go from adobe express creation to issuu publication. adobe indesign design pixel perfect content like flyers, magazines and more with adobe indesign. show submenu for "use cases" sectionuse cases industry art, architecture, and design education internal communications marketing and pr nonprofits publishing real estate retail and wholesale travel and tourism more industries role content marketers designers publishers salespeople social media managers teams content type flipbook portfolio digital magazine digital flipbook pdf to flipbook newspaper digital book digital lookbook more content types show submenu for "learn" sectionlearn blog welcome to issuu’s blog: home to product news, tips, resources, interviews (and more) related to content marketing and publishing. help center here you'll find an answer to your question. webinars free live webinars and workshops. resources dive into our extensive resources on the topic that interests you. it's like a masterclass to be explored at your own pace. turn static files into dynamic content formats. this year’s worthy 100 list furthers our mission to elevate those individuals using their influence and affluence to generate a positive impact on the world. together, we face many challenges: from global warming and geopolitical unrest to an impending recession and polarized political body. we find ourselves divided and scrambling at every critical juncture. in order to tackle these issues, we must stand together behind basic organizing principles of unity, compassion, preservation, and equality. those featured on this list have made genuine, impactful strides toward these fundamental values as they are applied across industries. there is no left right divide here, progress transcends politics. there is much work to be done, and by highlighting the voices of those striving to create necessary change, we hope to do our part. create once,share everywhere. issuu turns pdfs and other files into interactive flipbooks and engaging content for every channel.

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supported by the independent watchmaker kari voutilainen was dubious about a show in finland, but then he decided, “why not?” by penelope colston reporting from espoo, finland a 10 time winner at the grand prix d’horlogerie de genève, the annual industry event often called the “oscars of watchmaking,” kari voutilainen is among the most prestigious figures in independent horology. and in march, his work actually went to the academy awards: cillian murphy, who won best actor for “oppenheimer,” wore a yellow gold brooch by the hong kong design house sauvereign that mr. voutilainen had finished in guilloché, the decorative patterning that has become his signature. but mr. voutilainen, who has lived and worked in switzerland for more than 30 years, has not forgotten his roots. in late april, he visited his native finland to open a small but comprehensive exhibition showcasing his career. “voutilainen: the art of watchmaking” is scheduled to run through sept. 29 at the finnish museum of horology and jewellery kruunu in espoo, a city just outside the capital, helsinki. the exhibition features 31 watches by mr. voutilainen as well as sketches, photographs and videos connected with his work. despite a spring snowstorm on the opening day that disabled helsinki’s network of street trams and temporarily halted its light rail system, about 130 people turned out to greet mr. voutilainen, who grew up in the northern port city of kemi and attended the finnish school of watchmaking, headquartered in espoo. “it’s been really interesting,” mr. voutilainen, 61, said in a phone interview a few days later. “the exhibition has made me really stop and think about what we have been doing for the past 35 years. and i start to realize that we really have been doing a lot of things.”

 recent and archived work by penelope colston for the new york times the contrast club brand uses the energy from a tiny nudge or touch to make earrings curl up or a bracelet wrap around the wrist. by penelope colston recent designs include a collaboration with an award winning architect and an elaborate pocket watch. by penelope colston an exhibition displays collaborations between finnish jewelry makers and women from many nations who have come to the country. by penelope colston christian and hannelore lass are still filling orders for their brand’s first timepiece, but a bigger workshop has them looking ahead. by penelope colston and charlotte de la fuente exaequo’s new timepiece is a revival of a 1990s model inspired by a dalí painting of misshapen clocks. by penelope colston the independent watchmaker kari voutilainen was dubious about a show in finland, but then he decided, “why not?” by penelope colston von doren, which used the game’s notations on the dial of its first watch, plans to introduce a new version of the design this fall. by penelope colston five star hotels in helsinki and champagne excursions in lapland are just some of the indications that the country’s approach to tourism is changing. by penelope colston johanna nordblad and isotope watches now are working on a third series of timepieces for release later this year.