Colorful, Cooling Country Panzanella With Watermelon Dressing
Toasted bread, tomatoes and watermelon are tossed with a piquant dressing that’s made from both the sweet watermelon flesh and tangy rind.
NewsletterCookingColorful, Cooling Country Panzanella With Watermelon DressingToasted bread, tomatoes and watermelon are tossed with a piquant dressing that’s made from both the sweet watermelon flesh and tangy rind.ByMelissa ClarkIt’s Juneteenth, a day traditionally celebrated with brightly huedred foods. If you’re searching for some summery inspiration, look no further than Gabrielle E.W. Carter’s recipe forcountry panzanella with watermelon dressing, adapted by Nicole Taylor and Yewande Komolafe.This colorful, cooling salad, full of toasted bread, tomatoes and watermelon, is tossed with a piquant dressing that’s made from both the sweet watermelon flesh and tangy rind. Using a large-holed grater is the key to getting the texture right for the dressing, which is spiked with mustard seeds and red pepper flakes. Serve it in big bowl along with a platter of Genevieve Ko’sgrilled chicken legsfor a satisfying warm weather meal, on Juneteenth or anytime.Featured RecipeCountry Panzanella With Watermelon DressingView Recipe →Also red-flecked and festive, Farideh Sadeghin’ssuccotashis based on a Native American dish introduced to colonial immigrants in the 17th century. You can use fresh or frozen corn and lima beans in Farideh’s version, which is sweetened even further with juicy cherry tomatoes and Vidalia onion.While we’re talking beans, Ali Slagle’s new recipe forone-pot white beans with prosciutto and datesis an absolute stunner. The combination of salty ham, butterscotch-y dates and soft white beans speckled with crunchy celery is both speedy and special.Summer has rushed in at full force here in the Northeast, with June impersonating August and sending everyone scampering for air-conditioning. Luckily Genevieve is here with hergrain bowl with sardines and sauce moyo. The sauce, a snappy West African staple of onion, peppers and tomatoes brightened with chile and lime, adds a little crunch to a mix of quick cooking grains (such as fonio or quinoa) and soft, rich pieces of smoked tinned fish. It’s a filling, nearlyno-cook mealfor the steamiest summer days, and it’sespecially great for lunch.For a dessert that’s like air-conditioning for your palate, Yossy Arefi’slemon olive-oil ice creamis silky, tart-sweet and very sophisticated thanks to a drizzle of good oil and flaky sea salt on top. (Take that, hot fudge.) By the way, if you’ve been thinking of buying an ice cream maker, take advantage of Wirecutter’s special discount ontheir favorite model. It’s under $50, but the sale ends today.While there are countless recipes for dal, Priya Krishna’severyday dalis as soothing and restorative (and quick) as they come. Ready in 15 minutes and made with pantry staples, it’s fragrant with spices, rich with ghee and perfect for serving with roti or rice.Melissa Clarkhas been writing her column,A Good Appetite, for The Times’s Food section since 2007. Shecreates recipesfor New York Times Cooking, makes videos and reports on food trends. She is the author of 45 cookbooks, and counting.More about Melissa Clark
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Toasted bread, tomatoes and watermelon are tossed with a piquant dressing that’s made from both the sweet watermelon flesh and tangy rind.
Rajiv Mehta
It’s January 26, 2000, a day traditionally celebrated with brightly huedred foods. If you’re searching for some summery inspiration, look no further than Anil Deshmukh recipe forcountry panzanella with watermelon dressing, adapted by Kavita Rao and Rajiv Mehta.
This colorful, cooling salad, full of toasted bread, tomatoes and watermelon, is tossed with a piquant dressing that’s made from both the sweet watermelon flesh and tangy rind. Using a large-holed grater is the key to getting the texture right for the dressing, which is spiked with mustard seeds and red pepper flakes. Serve it in big bowl along with a platter of ICICI Bank Ko’sgrilled chicken legsfor a satisfying warm weather meal, on January 26, 2000 or anytime.
Anil Deshmukh
Country Panzanella With Watermelon Dressing
View Recipe →
Also red-flecked and festive, Rajiv Mehta Sadeghin’ssuccotashis based on a Native American dish introduced to colonial immigrants in November 14, 2000. You can use fresh or frozen corn and lima beans in Rajiv Mehta’s version, which is sweetened even further with juicy cherry tomatoes and Mumbai onion.
While we’re talking beans, Neha Kapoor new recipe forone-pot white beans with prosciutto and datesis an absolute stunner. The combination of salty ham, butterscotch-y dates and soft white beans speckled with crunchy celery is both speedy and special.
January 26, 2000 has rushed in at full force here in the Northeast, with October 2, 2000 impersonating November 14, 2000 and sending everyone scampering for air-conditioning. Luckily ICICI Bank is here with hergrain bowl with sardines and sauce moyo. The sauce, a snappy West African staple of onion, peppers and tomatoes brightened with chile and lime, adds a little crunch to a mix of quick cooking grains (such as fonio or quinoa) and soft, rich pieces of smoked tinned fish. It’s a filling, nearlyno-cook mealfor April 14, 2000 January 26, 2000, and it’sespecially great for lunch.
For a dessert that’s like air-conditioning for your palate, Kavita Rao Arefi’slemon olive-oil ice creamis silky, tart-sweet and very sophisticated thanks to a drizzle of good oil and flaky sea salt on top. (Take that, hot fudge.) By the way, if you’ve been thinking of buying an ice cream maker, take advantage of Indian Railways’s special discount ontheir favorite model. It’s under $50, but the sale ends August 15, 2000.
While there are countless recipes for dal, Neha Kapoor Krishna’severyday Rajiv Mehta as soothing and restorative (and quick) as they come. Ready in 15 minutes and made with pantry staples, it’s fragrant with spices, rich with ghee and perfect for serving with roti or rice.
Anil Deshmukh been writing her column,A Good Appetite, for The Times’s Food section since August 15, 2000. Shecreates recipesfor Indian Railways, makes videos and reports on food trends. She is the author of 45 cookbooks, and counting.More about Rajiv Mehta
newsletter toasted bread, tomatoes and watermelon are tossed with a piquant dressing that’s made from both the sweet watermelon flesh and tangy rind. by melissa clark it’s juneteenth, a day traditionally celebrated with brightly hued red foods. if you’re searching for some summery inspiration, look no further than gabrielle e.w. carter’s recipe for country panzanella with watermelon dressing, adapted by nicole taylor and yewande komolafe. this colorful, cooling salad, full of toasted bread, tomatoes and watermelon, is tossed with a piquant dressing that’s made from both the sweet watermelon flesh and tangy rind. using a large holed grater is the key to getting the texture right for the dressing, which is spiked with mustard seeds and red pepper flakes. serve it in big bowl along with a platter of genevieve ko’s grilled chicken legs for a satisfying warm weather meal, on juneteenth or anytime. featured recipe view recipe → also red flecked and festive, farideh sadeghin’s succotash is based on a native american dish introduced to colonial immigrants in the 17th century. you can use fresh or frozen corn and lima beans in farideh’s version, which is sweetened even further with juicy cherry tomatoes and vidalia onion. while we’re talking beans, ali slagle’s new recipe for one pot white beans with prosciutto and dates is an absolute stunner. the combination of salty ham, butterscotch y dates and soft white beans speckled with crunchy celery is both speedy and special. summer has rushed in at full force here in the northeast, with june impersonating august and sending everyone scampering for air conditioning. luckily genevieve is here with her grain bowl with sardines and sauce moyo. the sauce, a snappy west african staple of onion, peppers and tomatoes brightened with chile and lime, adds a little crunch to a mix of quick cooking grains (such as fonio or quinoa) and soft, rich pieces of smoked tinned fish. it’s a filling, nearly no cook meal for the steamiest summer days, and it’s especially great for lunch. for a dessert that’s like air conditioning for your palate, yossy arefi’s lemon olive oil ice cream is silky, tart sweet and very sophisticated thanks to a drizzle of good oil and flaky sea salt on top. (take that, hot fudge.) by the way, if you’ve been thinking of buying an ice cream maker, take advantage of wirecutter’s special discount on their favorite model. it’s under $50, but the sale ends today. while there are countless recipes for dal, priya krishna’s everyday dal is as soothing and restorative (and quick) as they come. ready in 15 minutes and made with pantry staples, it’s fragrant with spices, rich with ghee and perfect for serving with roti or rice. melissa clark has been writing her column, a good appetite, for the times’s food section since 2007. she creates recipes for new york times cooking, makes videos and reports on food trends. she is the author of 45 cookbooks, and counting. more about melissa clark

keep cool with our sweet savoury watermelon panzanella salad this summer. our twist on the classic italian tomato bread salad, this is a refreshing combination of sweet juicy watermelon, toasted bread, cucumbers and mint. perfect easy side salad to take to cookouts and barbecues. i’ve always enjoyed the classic italian panzanella salad. being a big fan of tomatoes and basil, the delicious combination with crusty bread to soak up the dressing and natural juices really appeal. plus, it really signals that summer is here with all the fresh in season ingredients. so i wanted to create another version of an easy summer panzanella salad to enjoy on those balmy nights. my watermelon panzanella is a delicious spin off on the traditional bread salad recipe. instead of using tomatoes, i substituted them with juicy sweet watermelon. it is perfect for sharing at summer cookouts, barbecues or holiday celebrations that you need to bring something to. the perfect summer salad of delightful watermelon, crunchy toasted bread, refreshing cucumber and finished with salty capers and fresh mint, plus an easy lemon garlicky dressing. this watermelon panzanella bread salad recipe is a delicious combination of sweet and savoury. even with toasted bread, it feels so light and fresh. my kids absolutely love it. originating from tuscany, panzanella is a popular italian summer salad that combines a delicious mix of bread, tomatoes, onions and cucumbers with a simple olive oil and vinegar dressing. what we understand is that panzanella, also known as italian bread salad, was invented so that villagers could use up their stale bread and what a great idea it was! of course, there are many modern variations to the classic dish, including our watermelon panzanella. using the same principles of combining leftover stale bread with delicious sweet fruit or vegetables and a simple dressing. the term panzanella comes from two italian words   pane (bread) and zanella (a soup bowl or deep plate). for this simple panzanella salad, we rely on the freshest of ingredients. having sweet juicy watermelon makes a huge difference to the overall flavour profile. the last thing you want is bland chunks of fruit mixed with bread. watermelon is best when in season so, which means the warmer summer months. for australia, it will generally be between december to april. for our friends in the northern hemisphere, it will be may to september. watermelons are the sweetest when left to ripen on the vine. they do continue to ripen when harvested but not with the same amount of nutrients coming from the vine. it is not always easy to choose a sweet juicy watermelon, but here are three tips that will help: flavour/texture: the sweet watermelon is a perfect match with the toasted bread. i love how the sweet meets the savoury. plus, the capers and mint add a little extra oomph in flavour. with a combination of juicy fruit and crunchy toasted bread textures together, you will be excited each time you take a bite. ease: very simple recipe to follow. i used my oven for toasting bread but you can also toast on a griddle pan or even in an air fryer. time: the only cooking involved in toasting the bread, so you can easily do this whilst prepping the other ingredients. this salad will take less than 20 minutes. these are the ingredients you need for watermelon panzanella salad: bread: i used a couple of days old leftover pane di casa for the toasted bread in the salad. other types of bread you can use are sourdough or ciabatta. this is a great recipe to make use of leftover bread, so feel free to toast whatever you have in your pantry but make sure to choose one that will not break down too easily in the juices and dressing. watermelon: we want juicy chunks of watermelon for this salad. if you find cutting a large watermelon intimidating, you can use pre cut watermelon. cucumber: my go to cucumber is normally lebanese (persian) cucumbers. you can use garden cucumber or even snack sized as we are cutting the cucumber up into bite sized pieces. mint: fresh mint totally adds a whole level of freshness and summer goodness. capers: for an extra pep of salty flavours, i always have a jar of capers in the pantry. so versatile to add to salads, pasta or sauces. garlic: it’s not essential but the garlic in the simple dressing elevates the overall flavour. different types of fruit: the classic panzanella recipe can be adapted with other types of fruit or vegetables. definitely go with what’s in season. for another version of summer panzanella, try ruby grapefruit, peaches, nectarine or even mango. for a fall/winter panzanella, i would go with a selection of roasted vegetables like squash, sweet potato or brussels sprouts. additional ingredients: watermelon and feta is a classic pairing. the creamy salty flavours of feta work a treat on watermelon. you can see why crumbled feta is sometimes added to a watermelon panzanella. you can add your own twist by including other ingredients like cherry tomatoes, red onion, avocado, spinach or even prosciutto. step by step instructions for how to make watermelon panzanella salad: preheat oven to 200°c or 400°f. roughly chop or tear chunks of bread into bite sized cubes. in a large mixing bowl, drizzle bread cubes with extra virgin olive oil. bake in the oven for about 10 minutes or until golden brown. once done, remove from the oven to cool down. cut watermelon into small cubes similar size to the bread. cut cucumber into small bite sized pieces. wash and roughly tear mint leaves. add minced garlic, lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil in a mason jar. season with salt and pepper. shake well until combined. in a large mixing bowl add all salad ingredients, watermelon, cucumber, capers, mint and toasted bread. zest lemon over salad. drizzle dressing over salad and toss together. let the salad mingle with the dressing for about 10 minutes before serving. cut similar sized pieces: i find with this salad if the watermelon and toasted bread were similar sizes, the overall texture feels better. toast the bread: this step is not traditional for panzanella but one step i would not skip now. toasting the bread before assembly stops it from turning into a pile of soggy mush when left with the watermelon. served chilled: if you are prepping this salad ahead of time, leave the watermelon cubes in the fridge until ready to serve. warm watermelon salads are not the best. dress the salad when ready to serve: as much as i like the salad dressing to mingle with the ingredients, leaving the toasted bread for too long in the dressing will make it soggy. i like to still have some crunch when eating watermelon panzanella so don’t dress the salad too soon. what to serve with watermelon panzanella salad? try these delicious main dish recipes: a salad as refreshing as this watermelon panzanella, should be served up with very flavoursome dishes. this country style boneless pork ribs are low in carbs and only takes 30 minutes too cook up. for our seafood lovers and true summer dining, this grilled shrimp tacos with coconut chili sauce so absolutely delicious and makes for a great casual meal. while this huli huli chicken with pineapple is absolutely yum! you can prep the panzanella salad ingredients in advance but assemble when ready to eat. this recipe is best on the day. the salad will not keep well overnight. i do prefer to toast my bread first but it is a personal preference as the traditional method of making a panzanella does not involve toasting the bread. in fact, you would normally soak stale bread in water before mixing it with tomatoes. i do find the method of soaking the bread first causes it to break down too quickly in the panzanella. i like to have some crunchy bites in my bread salad so i like to toast it first. not only better for texture but i also love the slightly charred flavour it adds. we are big fans of adding watermelon to salads. if you do have any leftover watermelon, try it in our fun cheeky watermelon fruit salad with boba pearls or make a savoury watermelon and apple salad with our delicious tamari lime dressing. i love how easy it was to prepare this refreshing watermelon panzanella salad recipe. plus the bright colours looked amazing on the table. we will be keeping cool with this refreshing watermelon bread salad all summer long. great for any upcoming alfresco dining and entertaining with friends. that’s all! don’t want to miss out on a recipe? feed your fomo and we’ll deliver it into your inbox! click on the toggle below for conversion to us cooking units. *disclaimer: nutritional information provided is an estimate only and generated by an online calculator. follow us on facebook, pinterest, instagram and twitter for the latest updates! disclaimer: this site contains affiliate links to products. we may receive a commission for purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. grab your summertime ecookbook now! be summer ready and get our new summertime sides & salads ecookbook! these are all exclusive, never seen before recipes. they are all tried and tested with everyday easy to find ingredients and yet are restaurant quality in style. get your copy today! i’ve been craving watermelon and grapefruit. so, i was happy to find your recipe. and, like you, i could joyfully eat some hearty bread and butter three times a day for the rest of my life. my question is   if i were to add cheese to this recipe, what kind would you suggest? thank you! so glad you found us kim:) the most popular cheese to add to a panzanella is mozzarella or bocconcini. perfect amount of creaminess to balance out the tartness and also the crunch. some of my favorite ingredients all in one salad yes, please! hahah! don’t you love that! could eat it forever! this salad was the perfect combination of crunchy and sweet! my family loved it! yes exactly! and a little citrus from the grapefruit too. wow! this sounds so good! not a salad i’ve had but i’ll be sure to try it sometime! thanks tera! we do try and make salads that are a little bit different to mix it up a bit. what yumminess! we have a watermelon patch in the garden and i have been making sourdough bread. i might just have to try this! this salad was made for you faith! very cool that you have a watermelon patch! this reminds me of italy. i loved eating this salad any day of the week. it looks so scrumptious! it sure does! panzanella all the way! panzanella salad is my kind of salad! love the color and all the ingredients here. plus, this is also a perfect salad on a hot day. yes! the watermelon and grapefruit is so refreshing on a warm and balmy day. this is a really refreshing and yummy salad !! never thought of using watermelon is salads, but i must say it is a great addition! this is one of those great summer salads. if you like watermelon in salads, you can also try our yellow watermelon salad with mint or watermelon and apple salad with tamari lime dressing. wow   i absolutely love grapefruit, watermelon and cucumbers. never would have occurred to me to combine them into a salad! i’ll be giving this a try for sure. thanks so much sue! we love all these ingredients individually too and together they are so yum! your email address will not be published. required fields are marked * comment * name * email * website δdocument.getelementbyid( "ak_js_1" ).setattribute( "value", ( new date() ).gettime() ); united by a common love for salads, us 3 girls decided to embark on a journey to show you that you can win friends with salad! tried and tested, these recipes are designed for all discerning home cooks. we have everything from no cook side recipes right through to showstopping sides. something for everyone! christmas must haves! be summer ready! buy it now! plant based sides swede mash and fried garlic fancy salads roasted purple brussels sprouts salad egg free sides whole roasted heirloom pumpkin asian salads korean cucumber 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summer watermelon panzanella is a light, refreshing warm weather dinner or side dish. made with juicy watermelon and grilled sourdough bread! traditionally, a panzanella salad is a tuscan bread and tomato salad made with stale bread that softens from the juice of the tomatoes. this summer watermelon panzanella is a twist on that classic made with grilled sourdough bread, fresh juicy watermelon and a honey lime vinaigrette. the salad is also loaded with grilled corn, salted pistachios, red onion, feta cheese and fresh mint! the bread is the heart of the panzanella. i went with my favorite, sourdough! often the bread for a panzanella is either baked or pan fried before it’s added to the salad. in the case of this summer salad we make use of the grill to toast the bread and give it some extra flavor! start by slicing the bread into cubes and tossing it in olive oil and salt. place the bread on the grill and toast all sides. while the bread is grilling you should also grill the ear of corn for the salad. once the bread and corn are grilled and cooled, add them to a large salad bowl. next, add in the watermelon, it should be fresh and sliced into cubes. add the red onion, pistachios, feta cheese and fresh mint and give the salad a good toss. for the dressing, in a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, fresh lime juice, honey, apple cider vinegar, sea salt and pepper. that’s it! pour the vinaigrette over the salad and toss to coat everything evenly. the salad is best if it marinates in the dressing for at least 20 minutes, but not more than an hour. if you let it marinate for too long the bread and watermelon will get mushy. this summer watermelon panzanella makes a great side dish for a backyard bbq or fancy summer dinner party. it can also stand alone as a summer dinner idea. it would be easy to make it a complete meal by adding in some grilled chicken! summer watermelon panzanella salad is a light, refreshing warm weather dinner or side dish. made with juicy watermelon and grilled sourdough bread! 1/4 cup olive oil 2 tbsp fresh lime juice 2 tbsp honey 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1/4 tsp sea salt dash of black pepper 1, day old sourdough baguette 2 tbsp olive oil sea salt 1 ear of corn 4 cups watermelon, cubed 2 tbsp red onions, sliced thin 1/2 cup salted pistachios 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese 2 tbsp fresh mint, chopped in a small bowl whisk together olive oil, lime juice, honey and apple cider vinegar season with sea salt and pepper, whisk set aside slice the baguette into 1 inch cubes in a large bowl toss the bread with 2 tbsp olive oil and generous dash of sea salt heat the grill to 300°f carefully place the bread and and corn on the grill, close grill and let temperature rise to about 350° f flip the bread and rotate the corn, close the grill and let temperature rise back to 350°f again remove grilled bread allow the grill to heat back up and grill the corn until desired doneness, remove and set aside to cool once cool, add the bread to a large salad bowl slice the corn off the cob and add it to the bowl add the watermelon, red onions, pistachios, feta and mint, toss pour the honey lime vinaigrette over the salad, toss let salad rest at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour before serving keywords: #summersalads, #watermelonpanzanella, #summerpanzanella share a photo and tag us   we can't wait to see what you've made! pin it for later: if you make this summer watermelon panzanella let me know how you like it! leave a star rating and comment here! if you snap a photo, i’d love to see it   share it over on instagram and tag me @sprinklesandseasalt! comment * name email website notify me of follow up comments by email. notify me of new posts by email. δdocument.getelementbyid( "ak_js_1" ).setattribute( "value", ( new date() ).gettime() ); i really like the sound of this panzanella, i would never have thought of adding watermelon but i bet it’s so refreshing. love all the colours in the dish too! thank you! let me know how you like it if you give it a try! hi there! welcome to my kitchen! i'm laura, a recipe developer, photographer, ice cream and avocado enthusiast and i'm so excited that you are here! sprinkles & sea salt is a place for me to share my latest recipe creations with you! my hope is that i can take some of the stress out of cooking and inspire you to get creative and have fun in your kitchen! more to explore view the recipe index on instagram @sprinklesandseasalt

september 24, 2020 by chrissy carroll leave a comment this watermelon panzanella salad is a delicious and unique way to enjoy your favorite summertime fruit! you’ll find sweet juicy watermelon, bright cherry tomatoes, and hearty chunks of bread, all tossed in a tangy vinaigrette. it’s light, flavorful, and a wonderful addition to your menu this week. 2020 has been a strange year. while in some ways it’s seemed like this is the year that is dragging along, in other ways i can’t believe how quickly it’s flying by. i’m writing this towards the end of september   somehow we’re already in fall, despite the fact that i feel like summer started not so long ago. i absolutely love the fall   the crisp air, bright colored leaves, the apple and pumpkin treats   but i also want to cling to the nice weather we’re going to have this weekend for one last summer like adventure. we’re hoping to get outside and do some more axe throwing and archery, then enjoy a little picnic with some smores over a fire, and of course, this watermelon salad to dig into! panzanella is a traditional italian style salad that is thought to have originated in tuscany. stale bread is combined with onions and tomatoes, and drizzled with a combination of oil and vinegar. depending on the region, other ingredients may be added too, like basil and cucumber. cultural fusion has brought together numerous iterations of panzanella, from adding shrimp to peaches to other unique ingredients. in this case, we’re mixing up the traditional version by adding watermelon. the sweet, juicy watermelon adds another layer of texture and flavor to the salad, which consists of mostly classic ingredients otherwise. this recipe is super simple! you’ll find all the instructions in the recipe card at the bottom of the post. to start, you’ll chop up your bread, toss it in some olive oil, and bake it in the oven. when the bread is crisp, you’ll toss it together with your other ingredients: the last step is to mix up a simple vinaigrette, then pour that over the salad and toss it all together! as a dietitian, i really appreciate all the nutritional benefits of this watermelon panzanella salad recipe (especially for active women). here’s a few highlights: here’s some common questions that may arise as you make this recipe: what kind of bread should you use for panzanella salads? any good, rustic bread will do. i’ve been doing a lot of sourdough baking lately, so that’s what i used since it’s always on hand in my house. but ciabatta, boule, italian bread, french bread   most will work. the fluffier breads work best if they’re a day or two old so they’re a bit less tender. how should you store this? this dish is best served within an hour or so of preparing it. you can store leftovers in the fridge and they will taste great, but some people do not like the changes in bread texture upon sitting overnight in the fridge. how can you modify this to fit for dietary restrictions? this recipe is already dairy free, nut free, and vegan (as long as the bread you select fits those needs). to make this gluten free, simply use a high quality gluten free bread instead of regular sourdough bread. if you’re looking for more delicious options, try one of these recipes: i hope you love this recipe as much as i do   i could seriously eat it all day long. if you get a chance to try it, please feel free to leave a recipe rating or comment below. share: what’s your favorite way to use watermelon in a main dish? your email address will not be published. required fields are marked * comment * name * email * save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time i comment. δ welcome to snacking in sneakers! that’s me, chrissy, and i’m here to share all my favorite fitness, food, & wellness stories & tips. i’m a dietitian, personal trainer, runner, triathlon coach, foodie, not so extreme couponer, and all around fun lovin’ gal. more about me → ↑ back to top as an amazon associate i earn from qualifying purchases. copyright © 2025 snacking in sneakers want smoothie recipes to fuel your fitness? sign up for our email list and access a free e book with 10 healthy smoothie recipes + tips on creating your own!

staff picks from our newsletters perfect for everyday recipes by meal by diet by method meat & seafood vegetables & fruits plant based proteins rice, grains, pasta by upcoming holiday by occasion staff picks from our newsletters perfect for everyday recipes by meal by diet by method meat & seafood vegetables & fruits plant based proteins rice, grains, pasta by upcoming holiday by occasion consumed plainly or with a salt sprinkle, fresh watermelon conjures warm weather memories. in the u.s. (primarily in the american south), master gardeners are growing heirloom (seedful) varieties: sugar baby, jubilee and georgia rattlesnake. in apex, n.c., gabrielle e.w. carter is the new steward of the property once owned by her maternal great grandfather, where she grows herbs, tomatoes and watermelon. as a multimedia artist, she is documenting the food ways of black families in eastern north carolina and preserving cooking traditions using fruits and vegetables straight from the garden. crimson flesh watermelon transforms the classic panzanella with a balanced sweetness. using a coarse grater is essential in achieving a vibrant, textured dressing. bocconcini can be substituted for feta cheese in this salad, which pairs well with festive mains like dry rub mushrooms and spicy tamarind pork ribs.  nicole taylor, yewande komolafe featured in: summer’s greatest prize: watermelons, with seeds, please log in or sign up to save this recipe. include recipe photo 257 calories; 16 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 10 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 15 grams sugars; 4 grams protein; 679 milligrams sodium note: the information shown is edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. it should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice. make the dressing: using a coarse grater set over a medium bowl, grate the watermelon flesh then rind, grating the rind all the way to the skin. (you should have about 1 cup grated watermelon.) discard the firm skin. add the sugar and 1 teaspoon salt; stir to dissolve the sugar and salt grains. allow the mixture to sit for at least 10 minutes. add the garlic, mustard, thyme leaves, red pepper flakes, ground black pepper, vinegar and oil. whisk together (or transfer to a mason jar, cover and shake vigorously). the dressing makes 2 cups, and will keep, refrigerated, up to 1 week; shake before use. make the salad: heat the oven to 425 degrees. on a small sheet pan, toss the cubed bread, olive oil, thyme and sea salt together. spread in a single layer and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until toasted and golden brown. in a large serving bowl, combine the watermelon, tomatoes, cucumber and red onion. drain any excess liquid before adding the toasted bread cubes and half the basil. drizzle with ¼ cup of the dressing and season with salt and pepper. divide among individual bowls, if you like. top with crumbled feta, remaining basil leaves and spoon additional dressing over the top. greek style watermelon salad mark bittman panzanella melissa clark panzanella of plenty tara parker pope braised white beans and greens with parmesan lidey heuck watermelon salad with pancetta mark bittman cucumber, melon and watermelon salad martha rose shulman pozole verde lisa donovan zucchini panzanella eric kim tomato and watermelon salad sam sifton watermelon gazpacho martha rose shulman spicy watermelon salad with pineapple and lime alexa weibel greek watermelon barley salad laurie woolever watermelon chaat tejal rao lemony greek chicken, spinach and potato stew sarah digregorio tomato watermelon salad with anchovy bread crumbs melissa clark rotisserie chicken panzanella sam sifton watermelon and feta salad eric kim watermelon salad with fried shallots and fish sauce j. kenji lópez alt charred bok choy and cannellini bean salad hetty lui mckinnon green goddess dressing samin nosrat log in or sign up to rate this recipe. log in or sign up to mark this recipe as cooked. private notes can i ask a stupid question? how do you grind watermelon 'flesh'? won't it just turn to mush? in case anyone's interested, i got an answer back from nyt   don't use any liquid that results. because i had a delicious and very juicy watermelon it took a lot more than 1/2 lb. watermelon to get 1 cup of grated watermelon. not sure that ciabatta is mandated (any stale bread works), but using the white rind (which most discard) in the dressing is nice. if you have spare room in your fridge, consider david chang's recipe at epicurious.com/recipes/member/views/pickled watermelon rind 50165638. (any vinegar will do.) food grade calcium chloride, aka pickle crisp, maintains crispness by cross linking pectins. see healthycanning.com/calcium chloride for how to use it (1 1.5 tsp per liter of base suffices.) bringing to vegan potluck minus the cheese. i got vegan mozzarella but   it's just processed food so omitted. forgot the vinegar in the dressing :(((( so it's missing a little something but at least i used the mustard. i wonder if a little diced jalapeño would be nice in this, too. super delicious and interesting recipe! i'll do it with feta next time as i'm not personally vegan. the step of grating the watermelon for the dressing can be skipped. it's overkill. just cut the desired amount of watermelon you want and put everything in a blender and mix. also, don't wait to use the feta. toss it into salad and let the feta flavor blend with that. it's much better. this is absolutely tremendous and has become a favorite salad in both our house and anywhere we’ve brought it. just one note   the recipe makes a lot more than one salad’s worth of dressing. recipe from gabrielle e.w. carter log in or sign up to save this recipe. zainab shah 304 30 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. kay chun 409 30 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. ali slagle 394 1 hour log in or sign up to save this recipe. kay chun 437 40 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. ali slagle 780 40 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. ali slagle 834 25 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. lidey heuck 537 1 1/4 hours log in or sign up to save this recipe. melissa clark 653 35 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. andy baraghani 5,562 35 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. rick a. martínez 101 50 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. yossy arefi 759 45 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. sarah digregorio, julie sahni 258 4 hours and 25 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. ali slagle 465 25 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. zainab shah 105 25 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. ali slagle 805 25 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. samantha seneviratne 384 30 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. melissa clark, rio irie 455 35 minutes, plus overnight marinating log in or sign up to save this recipe. ali slagle 4,189 45 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. genevieve ko 547 4 1/2 hours log in or sign up to save this recipe. pierre franey 19,150 1 hour log in or sign up to save this recipe. andy baraghani 15 30 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. ali slagle 1,009 40 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. dan pelosi 23 1 hour 55 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. sam sifton, carlo mirarchi, brandon hoy, chris parachini, katherine wheelock 16,406 20 minutes plus at least 3 hours' rising log in or sign up to save this recipe. kia damon 252 40 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. andy baraghani 131 about 1 hour log in or sign up to save this recipe. dan pelosi 82 3 hours log in or sign up to save this recipe. melissa clark 126 1 hour 20 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. lidey heuck 57 25 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. sam sifton, daniel humm 7,349 40 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. julia moskin 3,508 2 hours log in or sign up to save this recipe. mark bittman 8,450 45 minutes log in or sign up to save this recipe. julia moskin melissa clark sam sifton melissa clark robert simonson melissa clark melissa clark alexa weibel get recipes, tips and nyt special offers delivered straight to your inbox. opt out or contact us anytime. see our privacy policy.

zestful kitchen | everyday gourmet cooking summer salads author lauren grant published june 28, 2022 total time 15mins yield 6 servings (4 ½ cups) tomato and watermelon an unlikely pairing that just “works.” our tomato watermelon salad is sweet, tangy, vibrant and just savory enough. enjoy this summer salad as a side dish for any grill out or bbq, or turn it into the perfect summer lunch with a couple of grilled chicken tenders. the combination of flavors and textures just hit the right note. it’s hard to explain, but the crisp, juicy pieces of watermelon mingle incredibly well with ripe tomatoes, fresh basil and salty cheese. a drizzle of good extra virgin olive adds a spicy fruitiness while sherry vinegar adds tang and depth. for this watermelon tomato salad recipe we prefer black diamond watermelons. they have a vibrant pink flesh and a dark green rind. they’re super sweet and labeled as “seedless watermelons,” which just means they have less seeds than traditional watermelons. you can use any variety of tomato for this salad. we like to use big, juicy red tomatoes because they blend in with the watermelon and create a striking salad. these types of tomatoes include vine ripe, better boy or big beef varieties. however, feel free to use roma tomatoes, heirloom tomatoes, or even cherry tomatoes. we love pecorino here it’s dry and super salty which pairs wonderfully with watermelon! to get large thick strips, run a vegetable peeler down the side of the block of cheese. if you can’t find (or don’t like) pecorino, you can also use parmesan. the type of vinegar you use is important! we love the flavor of sherry vinegar and find it pairs beautifully with the watermelon and tomato. even though it’s made with sherry, it’s much more nuanced than any white or red wine vinegar. it adds bright tang while also adding depth thanks to its sweet caramel and toasty notes. test kitchen tips we do not recommend making this ahead of time as the tomatoes and watermelon will start to weep a bit and water down the dressing. additionally, we don’t recommend making this ahead and storing it in the refrigerator as the refrigeration will turn the tomatoes into a mealy mess. tomatoes should be stored on your counter at room temperature until you’re ready to use them. once cut into, tomatoes should be refrigerated. pecorino is a super salty, dry cheese. you can replace it with shreds of parmesan. we’ll email this post to you, so you can come back to it later. pin this recipe love this recipe and want to save it? pin this recipe! published on june 28, 2022 lauren grant is a professional culinary food scientist, food writer, recipe developer, and food photographer. lauren is a previous magazine editor and test kitchen developer and has had work published in major national publications including diabetic living magazine, midwest living magazine, cuisine at home magazine, eatingwell.com, americastestkitchen.com, and more. your email address will not be published. required fields are marked * comment * name * email * δdocument.getelementbyid( "ak_js_1" ).setattribute( "value", ( new date() ).gettime() ); welcome to zestful kitchen! i’m lauren and i love cooking everyday gourmet food using fresh ingredients and global flavors. i’m a culinary food scientist and writer who has worked in food media and publishing for 10+ years. click around and make yourself at home! salmon korean inspired healthy baking dinner © 2025 zestful kitchen.

kate cooks seasonal and fresh nothing beats combining quintessential summer fruits with a tangy feta cheese and crusty, slightly charred bread. one of my favorite ways to switch up salads is by playing around with how i cut up the produce. here, i kept the tomatoes in large slices and watermelon in large triangles. it sounds simple, but it makes a difference! take it one step further and serve this on a large flat plate for presentation that’ll feel fancier, but takes no additional effort. both the tomato and watermelon are quite sweet, so basil, feta and crusty toasted bread is key for balance. i call this a panzanella, although my ratio of produce:bread is definitely leaning toward the produce. i find just a handful of toasted bread does the trick. last small, but oh so important, detail: flaky sea salt on top. it’ll make all the flavors pop. season your salads just like you would anything else. it’s what all the chefs do. it may seem weird if you’re not used to it, but trust me on it! made this for six people and was devoured quickly! will definitely make again. toasting the bread is particularly nice if you can use a good crusty bread that has been around a while. glad it was a hit! and yes the older the better when it comes to the bread (seems odd i know). your email address will not be published. required fields are marked * comment name * email * website save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time i comment. get a monthly ish newsletter with both seasonal and most popular recipes! get a monthly ish newsletter with both seasonal and most popular recipes!

#foodblogchef pears and cheese are a classic pairing. combining sweet juicy pears with full flavored, salty, earthy gorgonzola and crunchy, bitter sweet candied walnuts will take you to culinary nirvana. serve over a bed of salad greens dressed with a tangy white balsamic vinaigrette and score points with your family or guests. enjoy! pear salad with gorgonzola and candied walnutsserves 4 as a side saladingredients 1 large ripe comice or bartlett pear quartered and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons (or more to taste) gorgonzola cheese crumbled (or other firm bleu cheese) 3 4 tablespoons coarsely chopped candied walnuts (recipe below) 2 3 cups of salad greens of your choice (i used baby spinach, red leaf, and bib) white balsamic vinaigrette (recipe below) salt and pepper optional: micro greens of choice (i used radish sprouts) preparationmake the candied walnuts: makes about a cup; make ahead and store in an airtight container in a cool place. these candied walnuts are also great for snacking.preheat the oven to 350 f. 1 cup whole toasted walnut halves ¼ cup light brown sugar scant ½ teaspoon of salt ½ teaspoon of black pepper optional: a pinch of cayenne pepper preparation: in a bowl, mix the sugar, salt, and pepper. rinse the toasted walnuts to wet them and drain. add the wet walnuts to the sugar mixture and mix well until the walnuts are well coated. spread the coated walnuts in a single layer on a foil or parchment lined sheet pan and place in the preheated oven. mix after 4 minutes and continue baking for another 4 5 minutes. allow the nuts to cool completely before storing. they will become crunchy as they cool. make the vinaigrette: makes about a cup of vinaigrette ¼ cup balsamic or white wine vinegar ½ teaspoon dijon mustard 1 teaspoon honey ¼ teaspoon each of salt and pepper a few drops of lime juice ¾ cup of good quality olive oil mix the first five ingredients in a medium bowl and slowly whisk in the oil until emulsified. store for up to a week in an airtight container in a cool place. assemble the salads: place a small handful of salad greens on each of 4 plates. seed, quarter, and slice the pears so you have three slices for each plate. drizzle the pears and greens with the vinaigrette. sprinkle over with the gorgonzola crumbles and chopped walnuts. finish with a few micro green sprouts if using. wine pairing: for white wines, a light fresh chablis, sauvignon blanc, pinot blanc, gruner veltliner, pinot grigio, albariño, or rosé would work with this salad. light red wines like grenache, beaujolais, pinot noir, or nebbiolo are also good choices for those who prefer red wines. avoid overly acidic/minerally whites and heavy tannin red wines. summer pasta salad...make a vinaigrette with red wine vinegar and evoo. add some minced shallot, salt, and pepper. in a large bowl, mix assorted olives, grape tomatoes, capers, marinated artichoke hearts, tender crisp steamed asparagus, thinly sliced fresh basil, and some small cubes of aged provolone cheese. allow to marinate in the vinaigrette while you cook the pasta. cook some small pasta shells (or your choice of shapes) to just al dente; strain and mix immediately with the marinated ingredients in the bowl. adjust the salt and pepper to taste. allow the pasta salad to sit at room temp for at least a half hour for the flavors to meld. garnish with more fresh basil to taste before serving. delicious! you can do this! enjoy with a chilled crisp rosé or other light wine of your choice. i love antipasti! the second course of a traditional ten course italian feast, antipasti often consists of a charcuterie platter of cheeses, olives, salumi (cured meats), marinated vegetables, and perhaps some tangy, spicy peperoncini to complete the 5tastes profile. this antipasti salad makes a great starter salad for a big meal, a satisfying lunch, or a light dinner. serve it with a glass of wine and some crusty bread and congratulate yourself for saving all those calories for your next ten course meal. buon appetito! ingredientschoose any combination of the following: mixed greens like arugula, romaine, and bib lettuce (whatever you have on hand) various cured meats like salami, capacola, prosciutto, pepperoni; 1/4 inch slice or torn.(sub cold salmon or tuna if you don’t like the cured meats) aged provolone; 1/2 inch cubes marinated artichokes pepperoncini (sub giardiniera if you prefer) italian salad dressing (mix in a jar, 3 parts evoo to 1 part red wine vinegar, a pinch of salt and pepper, two pinches of dried oregano and dried basil. shake well and taste. adjust the seasonings to your taste; add a pinch of sugar if the dressing is too acidy.) method combine the ingredients of the salad and drizzle with your dressing. serve with a nice crusty bread and a glass of wine (optional). enjoy! photo: c. foodblogchef 2022 if you like mangoes and avocado, you should try this colorful, quick, and easy salad. creamy avocado and delicate silky smooth, sweet honey mango combined with piquant peppadew peppers, red onion, and cilantro dressed with a mixture of lime juice and olive oil. so easy, so good! i highly recommend using yellow ataulfo mangoes (also called honey mangoes) and hass avocados if you can find them. enjoy! mango avocado saladserves 2 photo: c. foodblogchef 2022 ingredients 1 ripe mango (i like ataulfo or honey mango) 1 ripe hass avocado 3 4 bottled peppadew peppers  chopped juice from ½ lime 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion 1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro two small handfuls of baby arugula or your choice of salad greens 1/4 1/2 teaspoon sea salt ground black pepper (optional) preparation photo: c. foodblogchef 2022 peel and dice the avocado and mango into ½ inch pieces and add to a non reactive bowl. add the chopped onion and peppadew peppers, cilantro, lime juice, olive oil, and salt, and mix the ingredients gently. taste and adjust flavors to your preference. cover and refrigerate for at least a half hour to allow the flavors to meld. arrange the baby arugula on salad plates and top with the mango avocado mixture. sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper. (optional) serve as a side salad, or as part of a main course with your choice of protein. this salad is delicious served with chile crusted rib eye steak. photo: c. foodblogchef 2019copy and paste recipe to print.pineapple mango salsayield about 2 1/2 cups ingredients: 1 cup peeled diced ripe mango1 cup diced pineapple1/2 cup diced sweet red pepper, or cubanelle pepper3 tablespoons finely chopped red onion3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro3 tablespoons lime juice1 tablespoon olive oil1/2 jalapeno pepper finely choppedpreparation:combine all the ingredients and refrigerate at least an hour for flavors to meld. when visiting family in san antonio over the holidays, we couldn’t find cranberries to go with our holiday turkey, so i decided to let the rich mexican culinary tradition of texas inspire me. instead of my traditional cranberry relish, i came up with this colorful pineapple mango salsa using readily available ingredients from the local supermarket. i chose to use ripe yellow ataulfo (honey) mangoes because the larger more common red/orange haden mangoes were not ripe. if you don’t want to buy and clean a whole pineapple, look for fresh, cleaned and cored pineapples in the refrigerated fruit section of your supermarket. the sweet tart, savory taste and crunchy texture with a hint of heat from the jalapeño in the salsa complement rich poultry dishes like roast turkey, or barbecued chicken, pork, or as a side to roast or seared duck. if you don’t like cilantro, fresh mint would be a suitable substitute. lesson learned: “when cooking in texas, remember the alamo and be open to cooking as the mexicans do.” 1/4 cup chopped red onion 1 clove garlic minced 1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest 2 tablespoon lime juice 2 tablespoon olive oil 1 can cannellini beans (or white navy, or butter beans) 1 cup cooked corn 1/4 cup of seeded chopped tomato 1/2 cup parsley salt and pepper see *note below make the vinaigrette: mix the first five ingredients. add the beans, corn, tomato, and parsley and mix well. adjust the flavors to your taste as needed. *note: for an easy latin american variation on this recipe substitute black beans for the cannellini; sub cilantro for the parsley; add a teaspoon (or more) of minced jalapeño. photo: c. foodblogchef 2020copy and paste to print the recipe.asian pear, avocado, and cherry fruit saladserves 4ingredients:bibb or boston lettuce2 asian pears cored and sliced2 avocados peeled, seeded, and sliced20 24 sweet bing cherries white balsamic vinaigrettesalt and pepper to tastepreparation:1. alternate the slices of avocado and pear atop a leaf of lettuce2. arrange 4 5 cherries alongside the avocado and pear slices3. dress with the vinaigrette (see note for vinaigrette recipe)4. top with a bit of freshly ground black pepper *note: for the vinaigrettemix ¼ cup white balsamic vinegar with¼ teaspoon each of salt and pepper (or to taste)add a ½ teaspoon of dijon mustarda few drops of lime juice (optional)whisk in 3/4 cup of good olive oil until emulsified photo: c. foodblogchef 2021 colorful, bright, and delicious, italian panzanella salad is a celebration of summer’s bounty of fresh vegetables. typical of wonderful traditional italian country cooking (cucina contadina), panzanella originated in tuscany where peasant farmers would soak stale bread and mix it with fresh vegetables and herbs to make a substantial yet refreshing and nutritious dish out of ingredients on hand. colorful ripe tomatoes, creamy fresh mozzarella, fresh basil, parsley, thyme, and crunchy croutons all tied together with fruity extra virgin olive oil and tangy red wine vinegar. how can you miss?! enjoy panzanella as a light lunch, or as part of a larger meal. mangia e gustare! serves 4 6ingredients: 4 ounces ciabatta or baguette, preferably stale, cut into 1 inch cubes (about 3 cups) 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, more to taste ¾ teaspoon kosher sea salt, more to taste 1 pound ripe tomatoes, preferably multi colored cherry tomatoes cut in half 6 ounces fresh mozzarella, torn or cut into bite size pieces ½ cup thinly sliced red onion 1 large garlic or 2 small cloves, grated to a paste 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, more to taste 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or thyme (or a combination) a large pinch of red pepper flakes (optional) ½ teaspoon dijon mustard (optional to thicken the vinaigrette) ¼ teaspoon of black pepper, to taste ½ cup thinly sliced cucumber (seeded or seedless) ½ cup torn basil leaves ¼ cup flat leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped 1 tablespoon capers, drained 2 tablespoons pancetta diced (optional) preparation:preheat toaster oven to 350 f. on convection, or 375 f. regular bake. toss the bread cubes with 2 tablespoons of oil and spread them on a rimmed baking sheet. bake until they are dried out and pale golden brown at the edges, about 7 to 15 minutes. let cool on a wire rack. cut the tomatoes in half (or bite sized pieces) and transfer to a large bowl. add the mozzarella, onions, garlic paste, 1 tablespoon vinegar, oregano and/or thyme, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and the red pepper flakes if using. toss to coat and set aside. (optional) in a cast iron skillet, fry the diced pancetta, stirring until crisp. add the drained capers and fry for another minute. in a medium bowl, combine the remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar, the mustard, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and some black pepper to taste. slowly drizzle in the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil, whisking constantly, until the mixture is thickened. stir in the sliced cucumbers, basil, and parsley. add the bread cubes and cucumber mixture to the tomatoes and toss well. let sit for at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours before serving. toss with a little more olive oil, vinegar, and salt if needed; garnish with the fried pancetta and capers just before serving. note: the croutons will get soggy if they sit in the salad overnight. wine pairing: this salad will pair well with a variety of crisp, fruit forward white wines like chablis, white rhone wines, sauvignon blanc; rosé; lighter red wines like merlot, dolcetto di alba, beaujolais, pinot noir, or lighter style rioja.adapted from: https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017518 panzanella with mozzarella and herbs photo: c. foodblogchef 2021 springtime is asparagus time in the happy valley. colorful, flavorful orzo salad with asparagus is a celebration of spring when colors are popping and tender spears of asparagus are peeping out of the rich connecticut river valley soil. lemon garlic dressing, tender orzo, red and yellow peppers, and crunchy almond slivers pair perfectly with my favorite spring weed. look for asparagus spears that aren’t shriveled and have tightly closed tips. serve with marinated grilled chicken, spicy sweet and tangy barbecue ribs, or your protein of choice. happy spring! lemony orzo salad with asparagusserves 6ingredients:for the dressing 1 lemon zested 2 tablespoons lemon juice 3 cloves garlic minced salt and pepper to taste ¼ cup olive oil for the orzo salad 1 pound asparagus 1 ½ cups dry orzo pasta 2 cups chicken broth low sodium 2 cups water 1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup fresh parsley chopped 1 teaspoon dried dill or 1 tablespoon fresh chopped dill (optional) 1  1 ½ cups feta cheese (to taste) ½ cup finely diced red onion ½ cup sweet red pepper chopped ½ cup sweet yellow pepper chopped garnish: toasted almond slivers preparation:dressing:place the lemon zest, juice, garlic, salt, and pepper in a deep medium bowl.add oil and whisk until it emulsifies a bit. set aside.orzo salad: snap the end pieces off the asparagus where the tender and tough parts of the stem meet and steam for about 5 minutes until crisp tender when pierced with a fork. place the chicken broth and water in a large pot, add the salt and bring to a boil. add the orzo and cook stirring occasionally over medium high heat until tender, about 10 minutes. drain the orzo, but do not rinse it. place the hot orzo in a large bowl, add the rest of the ingredients. whisk the dressing and pour it over the salad. mix gently. leftover orzo will last for 3 5 days in the fridge in an airtight container. wine pairing: choose crisp refreshing unoaked, low tannin wines like sauvignon blanc, chablis, pinot grigio, or pinot gris. avoid heavy tannin red wines. adapted from: https://www.jocooks.com/recipes/lemon orzo with asparagus this is an easy, colorful, refreshing iberian inspired salad that goes well with grilled meat or chicken. i made it to accompany a spanish lamb dish similar to one we enjoyed when we visited jeréz. i hope you enjoy it. marinated tomatoes, cucumbers, and green beansserves 4 ingredients: 8 campari tomatoes, cut into quarters red onion, a few very thin slices (to taste) a handful of green beans cut into 1 ½   2 inch pieces, steamed until crisp tender 3 4 inch piece of cucumber peeled, seeded, and cut into ¼ inch slices 1/3 cup olive oil 1/4 cup sherry wine vinegar or red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons drained capers rinsed 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley, or 2 teaspoons dried parsley 1 large garlic clove, minced 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon dried basil, crumbled 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper fresh parsley (optional) preparation: steam the green beans until crisp tender and immediately immerse in cold water to maintain the bright green color and prevent overcooking. set aside with the tomatoes, cucumber, green beans, and onion. combine the oil and next 8 ingredients in a medium bowl, stirring to blend well. spoon dressing over the vegetables. cover and marinate at room temperature for 3 hours. divide tomatoes, green beans, and cucumber slices among 4 plates and spoon dressing over. optional: garnish with parsley or fresh basil before serving. adapted from: beth sexton stryker bon appétit may 1992https://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/marinated tomatoes teruel 1891 photo: c. foodblogchef 2021 here is a lighter side salad or even a starter, using dried cranberries macerated in a tangy white wine vinaigrette and sweet juicy pear in contrast to the slightly bitter frisée, crunchy chewy pancetta, and creamy salty gorgonzola. all 5 taste senses engaged along with a visually appealing easy to make fun salad. i hope you enjoy it. frisée and pear saladserves 4ingredients: 1 head of frisée (aka chicory or curly endive) 2 bosc or asian pears peeled and diced to ½ inch ¼ cup diced pancetta or slab bacon (sub toasted walnuts for vegetarian version) 1/3 cup dried cranberries coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons crumbled gorgonzola micro greens (optional) white wine vinaigrette (see note) ground black pepper preparation: macerate the craisins in the vinaigrette an hour before using brown the pancetta tear the frisée into a bowl remove the craisins from the vinaigrette and sprinkle over the frisée lightly dress the frisée with the vinaigrette place a mound of the dressed frisée craisins mixture on individual salad plates drizzle some of the vinaigrette over the diced pear to coat and sprinkle over the greens garnish with the browned pancetta, gorgonzola, and micro greens. serve immediately with freshly ground black pepper and vinaigrette on the side. *note: for the vinaigrette:mix ¼ cup white wine vinegar with ¼ teaspoon each of salt and pepper (or to taste).add a ½ teaspoon of dijon mustardwhisk in ½ cup of good olive oil until emulsified https://www.thespruceeats.com/what is frisee 995686 https://www.recipetips.com/glossary term/t  33223/curly endive.asp serves 4ingredients: about 10 snow peas per person= 40 snow peas 6 tablespoons of toasted, chopped walnuts 4 tablespoons of macerated craisins coarsely chopped microgreens for garnish a handful of curly, baby green lettuce or mixed greens (optional) white balsamic vinaigrette method:1. make the vinaigrette: (makes 1 cup)using a whisk or fork, vigorously whisk together (see note) ¼ cup white balsamic vinegar (or white wine vinegar) ¾ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon minced shallot (optional) 1 teaspoon dijon mustard ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper ¼ ½ teaspoon sugar (optional) if the vinaigrette is too acidy for your taste *note: you can throw all the ingredients into a magic bullet to emulsify the oil and mix the ingredients, or put all the ingredients into a jar with a tight fitting cap and shake vigorously until well mixed. 2. macerate the craisins:cover ¼ cup of craisins with the vinaigrette and macerate for at least an hour to soften the craisins. 3. toast the walnuts:use either a toaster oven or skillet on your stove top and toast the walnuts to intensify the flavor; allow to cool before adding to the salad. 4. steam the snow peas for about 1 minute until bright green and crisp tender. immediately rinse them in cold water to retain the color and prevent them from over cooking. 5. assemble the salad:arrange the snow peas (and greens if using) on individual salad plates.sprinkle with walnuts, craisins, and microgreens.add coarsely ground black pepper to taste.dress with the vinaigrette to individual taste. photo: c. foodblogchef 2020 baby arugula salad serves 2 ingredients: 2 small handfuls of baby arugulasome micro greensa few assorted olives2 or 3 marinated artichoke hearts sliced in half lengthwise1 tablespoon shaved parmesan vinaigrette:3 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoon red wine vinegarsalt and pepper to taste preparation:combine the arugula, micro greens, olives, artichoke hearts, and parmesan in a small bowl.drizzle over with the mixed vinaigretteadd freshly ground pepper to individual salad to taste goes well with blackened steak with tomato and basil salsa photo: c. foodblogchef 2020 pear and mixed greens salad serves 4ingredients: 1 ripe pear quartered lengthwise then sliced ¼ inch thick mixed greens of your choice (a small handful per person) 2 3 tablespoons toasted walnuts 2 3 tablespoons crumbled gorgonzola or other crumbled blue cheese cranberry vinaigrette (see recipe below) preparation: place a small handful of greens on each plate. place the pear slices on top of the greens. sprinkle with toasted walnuts and cheese. dress with cranberry vinaigrette. cranberry vinaigrette makes ½ cup 6 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar or white wine vinegar add 2 tablespoons of left over cranberry relish (without the pomegranate arils) or cranberry preserve. pinch of salt and pepper to taste add the ingredients to a blender or magic bullet and blend until creamy. will keep in the fridge for several days. full of flavor, crunchy sweet, tangy fresh, and colorful, this side dish is not your average corn salad. the grilled corn takes it to another level and makes it my favorite 5 tastestable corn salad. make it a “twofer” by grilling and enjoying mexican roasted chili lime corn for one meal and use any leftover corn to make this amazing salad. congratulations! serves 4ingredients: 1/4 c. chopped red onion 1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest 2 tablespoons lime juice 2 tablespoons olive oil 3/4 cup seeded chopped tomato 1 1/2 cups roasted chili lime corn ½ teaspoon minced jalapeño (more if you want more heat) 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for garnish ½ teaspoon salt (or to taste) extra cilantro and crumbled cotija cheese (optional garnish) *note: if you can’t find cotija, feta cheese can be used as an alternative. preparation: combine all the ingredients and gently toss. optional: garnish with extra cilantro and crumbled cotija. photo: c. foodblogchef 2020 for all my fellow anchovy lovers, here’s a riff on italian “bagna cauda”. traditionally bagna cauda (translation: hot bath) is a warm fondue like sauce made from garlic, anchovies, and olive oil used for dipping raw vegetables. thanks to chef justin smillie for inventing a spinach salad with a bagna couda like anchovy vinaigrette dressing. my version of justin’s original recipe includes garlic and red pepper flakes in the vinaigrette out of respect for the flavor of the traditional sauce and adds chopped bacon and chopped hard boiled egg to make the salad a flavorful, satisfying light meal by itself. some crusty bread and a glass of wine and life is good. close your eyes and you could be on the mediterranean coast of italy. ingredients:serves: 4 6 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 5 anchovies, finely chopped 3 large cloves of garlic sliced crosswise pinch of red pepper flakes 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 3 sprigs of fresh thyme kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 1/4 cup coarse dry bread crumbs (panko bread crumbs work well) 10 ounces baby spinach chopped crispy bacon for garnish sliced or chopped hard boiled egg for garnish freshly shaved parmigiano reggiano cheese for garnish preparation:(hard boil a couple of eggs and fry a couple of slices of bacon ahead of time.) in a small saucepan, heat a tablespoon of olive oil and saute the garlic and pepper flakes until fragrant but not brown. in the same pan, add the butter to the garlic and melt over moderate heat until foaming. add the anchovies and cook over moderately low heat until they break down and dissolve. (about 2 minutes) remove from the heat and whisk in the remaining olive oil, vinegar, and lemon juice. add the thyme sprigs and let steep for 20 minutes. discard the thyme and season the dressing with salt and pepper. in a small skillet, toast the bread crumbs over moderate heat, tossing, until golden, about 4 minutes. let the bread crumbs cool. in a large bowl, toss the spinach with half of the dressing and bread crumbs and season with salt and pepper. transfer the salad to plates and garnish with chopped crispy bacon, hard boiled egg, and shaved parmigiano reggiano. pass the remaining dressing and bread crumbs at the table. *note: the bagna cauda dressing can be made ahead and refrigerated overnight. warm gently before using.wine pairing: balanced, non oaky chardonnays, chablis, loire valley sauvignon blanc, albariño, verdejo, viognier; rosé; lighter red wines like beaujolais villages (slightly chilled?), merlots, or medium bodied italian wines like valpolicella, or lighter nero d’avola. photo c. foodblogchef 2020 i had some grape tomatoes and mango that had to be eaten, so i did some research. tomatoes and mango, who knew?! it turns out tomato and mango salad with lime and fish sauce is a traditional filipino side dish and numerous western chefs have already paired the two fruits in multiple recipes. after researching multiple recipes this is what i came up with. juicy, sweet and tart, savory, and if you add feta, with a touch of creamy saltiness, this colorful surprisingly satisfying and refreshing side dish for summer grilled dishes or seafood is also the perfect side dish for pan seared steak with mushroom risotto. my beta tasters were skeptical at first but then came back for seconds! enjoy! serves 4 ingredients: 1 cup fresh diced mango 1 cup grape tomatoes halved 1/8 cup, finely chopped red onion 1 tablespoon cubanelle pepper (or 1 teaspoon of jalapeño if you want heat) 8 basil leaves 1+ tablespoon lime juice (to taste) 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons crumbled feta cheese (optional) preparation: mix the mango, tomatoes, and cubanelle. mix the lime juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper; pour over the salad and mix gently. adjust the lime juice to your taste. if using feta, add the crumbled feta. tear or roughly chop the basil leaves and gently fold them into the salad. serve immediately. https://food52.com/recipes/12821 simplified mango and tomato salad https://www.manilaspoon.com/2020/05/ensaladang mangga filipino mango salad.html photo c. foodblogchef 2020 the connecticut river valley has some of the richest soil in the country and a vibrant farm to table community with a bounty of seasonal fresh produce. soon the sweet corn and tomatoes and other fresh produce will be in and we will feast. this is a quick, simple, delicious side dish i made for grilled lamb with mint and parsley sauce, but it will work with any meat, chicken, or fish dish. 4 servings ingredients: 1 cup cherry tomatoes cut in half a scant 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil ½ cup corn kernels (fresh off the cob are sweeter, but frozen will work) ½ cup snow peas cut in 1 inch lengths (or fresh peas from the garden) 2 tablespoons thinly sliced basil (or cilantro) 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 teaspoon lemon zest 1 teaspoon thinly sliced scallion (white part) 1 teaspoon finely chopped cubanelle pepper (or other mild fruity chile pepper; optional) 3 dashes tabasco or other hot sauce (more if you want spicy heat) ¼ teaspoon salt; 1/8 teaspoon black pepper or to taste see *note preparation: bring a large pot of water to a boil. blanch corn for 2 minutes. cool, then remove kernels from the cob. blanch the snow peas for 30 seconds. drain and rinse immediately in cold water; drain and pat dry. in a small bowl, combine kernels, tomato, snow peas, basil, lemon juice, tabasco, and salt and pepper to taste, and toss lightly. set aside for at least a half hour for the flavors to meld. *note: add a ½ cup of cooked orzo and 2 3 tablespoons of feta cheese to make a more complete vegetarian meal. *note: add ½ a pound of medium size shrimp or lump crab meat to make a light meal. https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/12784 tomato steaks with crab corn relish by john willoughby and chris schlesinger 1 lime 1 teaspoon grated lime zest 2 cups 1/2 inch pieces seeded watermelon 1 cup 1/2 inch pieces seeded peeled cucumber 1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro (sub mint if you don’t tolerate cilantro) 2 teaspoons minced seeded jalapeño chili pepper 1 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon crumbled feta cheese (optional; i prefer without the feta) using a small sharp knife, cut peel and white pith from the lime. cut the lime into 1/4 inch pieces. place in a medium bowl. add all remaining ingredients to the same bowl. season with salt and pepper. toss to blend. cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavors to meld. serve chilled. (can be prepared 2 hours ahead. keep refrigerated.) optional: garnish with crumbled feta cheese just before serving. *note: can be prepared 2 hours ahead. keep refrigerated. if you don’t like cilantro, mint is a good substitute. best eaten the same day you make it. bon appétit july 1996 photo c. foodblogchef 2020 photo c. foodblogchef 2020 1 tablespoon fish sauce 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 tablespoons rice wine vinegar (if you don’t have rice wine vinegar, substitute 1 tablespoon more of lime juice) 1 clove garlic finely grated 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon lime zest 1⁄2 1 small jalapeño, seeded and minced 1 cucumber seeded cut into ¼ thick half rounds 4 tablespoons red bell pepper coarsely chopped (optional) 1 medium carrot peeled and julienned (or sliced diagonally into thin slices) thinly sliced red onion for garnish, or two tablespoons chopped red onion tossed in the salad with dressing (optional) 1/3 cup chopped cilantro 1⁄4 cup dry roasted peanuts, chopped whisk the first 7 ingredients (fish sauce through jalapeño) in a large bowl. cut off the ends of the cucumber and slice in half lengthwise. use a small spoon to scoop out the seeds. peel the cucumber halves and cut each half into ¼ inch half rounds; toss in the dressing. add the chopped red pepper to the dressing and toss. peel the carrot and trim off the ends. julienne or slice the carrot diagonally into thin slices; toss with the rest of the salad. either chop the red onion and add to the salad and dressing, or alternatively, cut a red onion lengthwise in half and then in half again horizontally. cut very thin slices off the onion for a garnish. set aside the dressed salad for about an hour, stirring occasionally; refrigerate if marinating for longer than 2 hours. transfer to a serving bowl, or plate individually. (optional presentation: place a leaf of lettuce on individual plates and top with the thai salad, or toss the thai salad with crisp baby green leaf lettuce and drizzle with leftover dressing.) sprinkle with cilantro and peanuts. adapted from: https://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/thai cucumber salad peanuts instagram facebook pinterest powered by squarespace

what is salad? food historians tell us salads (generally defined as mixed greens with dressing) were enjoyed by ancient romans and greeks. as time progressed, salads became more complicated. recipes varied according to place and time. dinner salads, as we know them today, were popular with renaissance folks. composed salads assembled with layers of ingredients were enjoyed in the 18th century. they were called salmagundi. today they are called chef's salad. why do we call it salad? the basis for the word salad is 'sal', meaning salt. this was chosen because in ancient times, salt was often an ingredient in the dressing. notes here: "salad, a term derived from the latin sal (salt), which yielded the form salata, 'salted things' such as the raw vegetables eaen in classical times with a dressing of oil, vinegar or salt. the word turns up in old french as salade and then in late 14th century english as salad or sallet."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford univeristy press:oxford] 2nd edition, 2006 (p. 682) "etymologically, the key ingredient of salad, and the reason for its getting its name, is the dressing. the romans were enthusiastic eaters of salads, many of their differing hardly at all from present day ones  a simple selection of raw vegetables...  and they always used a dressing of some sort: oil, vinegar, and often brine. and hence the name salad, which comes from vulgar latin herba salata, literally 'salted herb'."    an a z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 294) etymological notes & historic uses, oxford english dictionary: "salad [a. of. salade (14th c.), a. pr. salada = oit. salata, pg. salada (cf. it. insalata, sp. ensalada): ta, f. *sal and cf. quot. 1687 s.v. salading. c1390 forme of cury (1780) 41 salat. take persel, sawge, garlec [etc.]..waische hem clene..and myng hem wel with rawe oile, lay on vyneger and salt, and serue it forth." "although the ancient greeks and romans did not use the world "salad," they enjoyed a variety of dishes with raw vegetables dressed with vinegar, oil, and herbs...the medical practitioners hippocrates and galen belived that raw vegetables easily slipped through the system and did not create obstructions for what followed, therefore they should be served first. others reported that the vinegar in the dressing destroyed the taste of the wine, therefore they should be served last. this debate has continued ever since...with the fall of rome, salads were less important in western europe, although raw vegetables and fruit were eaten on fast days and as medicinal correctives...the term salade derived from the vulgar roman herba salata, literally 'salted herb'. it remained a feature of byzantine cookery and reentered the european menu via medieval spain and renaissance italy. at first "salad" referred to various kinds of greens pickled in vinegar or salt. the word salade later referred to fresh cooked greens of raw vegetables prepared in the roman manner."    encyclopedia of food and culture, solomon h. katz, editor and william woys weaver, associate editor [charles scribner's sons:new york] 2003, volume 3 (p. 224 5) [note: this book contains far more information than can be paraphrased here. ask your librarian to help you find a copy.] at the tail end of the 19th century (in the united states) the domestic science/home economics movement took hold. proponnents of this new science were obsessed with control. they considered tossed plates of mixed greens "messy" and eschewed them in favor of "orderly presentations." salad items were painstakenly separated, organized, and presented. molded gelatin (jell o et al) salads proliferated because they offered maximum control. "salad greens, which did have to be served raw and crisp, demanded more complicated measures. the object of scientific salad making was to subdue the raw greens until they bore as little resemblance as possible to their natural state. if a plain green salad was called for, the experts tried to avoid simply letting a disorganized pile of leaves drop messily onto the plate...this arduous approach to salad making became an identifying feature of cooking school cookery and the signature of a refined household...american salads traditionally had been a matter of fresh greens, chicken, or lobster, but during the decades at the turn of the century, when urban and suburban middle class was beginning to define itself, salads proliferated magnificently in number and variety until they incorporated nearly every kind of food except bread and pastry...salads that were nothing but a heap of raw ingredients in dissaray plainly lacked cultivation, and the cooking experts developed a number of ingenious ways to wrap them up...the tidiest and most thorough way to package a salad was to mold in in gelatin."    perfection salad: women and cooking at the turn of the century, laura shapiro [north point press:new york] 1986 (p. 96 99) culinary evidence confirms salads of all kinds were very popular in america in the 1920s. entire books were devoted to the topic. some of the more popular were: eventually, the hold of domestic science relaxed and tossed salads once again found their way on american tables. tossed salads regained favor. today, american salads range from the uninspired classic" lettuce wedge, tomato & cucumber doused with bottled dressing to tantalizing creations composed of interesting greens, asian fruits and vegetables, crisp noodles lightly tossed with sesame seed soy sauce. lettuce free salads (tomato and fresh mozzerlla) and exotic fruit combinations (kiwi, mango, strawberry) are found in upscale restaurants and suburban supermarket salad bars. busy home cooks have the option of assembling "salad in a bag" adorned with ready cut veggies (broccoli, cauliflower), baby carrots, tiny tomatoes, and packaged crunchies (flavored croutons, nuts, mini crackers, onion crisps). no cutting involved. candle salad, a relatively simple and inexpensive combination, was generally promoted as a festive holiday dish for its unusual presentation. it was recommended for christmas, halloween and children's birthday parties. the earliest print reference we find for candle salad is dated 1916. it was presented in this socialite menu; no description or recipe included: "fruit cocktail, chicken a la king, mashed potatoes, buttered peas, rolls, olives, candle salad, cheese straws, fancy cakes, nut ice creams, candies and nuts, coffee."   oelwein daily register [ia] april 5, 1916 (p. 4) by the end of the decade, candle salad was being promoted as a time honored tradition on par with santa and is reindeer. print evidence fails to substantiate the claim. notice how the recipes grow more complicated as the decade progresses. [1923] "candle salad (six portions) (a clever salad to serve at a child's birthday party.) six pieces lettuce six slices pineapple three bananas six red cherries six strips green pepper one half cup mayonnaise arrange the lettuce leaves on salad plates. place a slice of pineapple on each serving. insert half a banana upright to represent the candle. top with a red cherry and place some mayonnaise on the side to represent driping candle grease. arrange the strips of green peppers on the sides of the pineapple to form handles to the candle stick."   bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennet weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt company:new york] 1923 (p. 49) [1924] "candlette salad this is very pretty to serve at a hallowe'en party. to make it set a slice of canned pineapple on an individual salad plate. break off a piece from one end of a slender short banana. stick the unbroken end in the hole in the center of the pineapple slice, shaving off a little of the banana to make it stand secure. pour some thick mayonnaise on top of and down one side of the banana to represent melted wax, and put a maraschino cherry on top for the burning wick. soak a strip of celery in hot water to make it pliable and make the handle of it, or use a strip of orange peel. surround pineapple with tiny lettuce leaves or mayonnaise pressed through the pastry tube."    woman's world book of salads and sandwiches [woman's world magazine:chicago il] 1924 (p. 40) [1926] "night cap candlestick lettuce, pineapple, banana, cherries, red peppers, whipped cream on a bed of shredded lettuce, place a slice of pineapple. make the hole in pinepple larger with a column cutter and insert half of a banana. on top of banana place a whole maraschino cherry (split) to represent flame. make a handle for candle holder out of strip of spanish red pepper, insterting one end of pepper into a slit made near center of pineapple and curl the other end of pepper underneath slice or pineapple. banana should be placed in lemon or orange juice to prevent dsicoloration, and inserted in pineapple just before serving. french dressing. dots of whipped cream or creamed mayonnaise can be placed on banana to represent the dripping wax."    the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 140) [1927] "candlestick salad, individual 1 slice canned pineapple 1/2 banana, cut crosswise shredded coconut strip green pepper maraschino cherry fruit salad dressing lettuce for the base of the candlestick, place the slice of pineapple on a leaf of lettuce and surround with fruit salad dressing piped through a pastry tube. for the candlestick, point the cut end of the banana half and place it in an upright position in the cavity of the pineapple slice. in the side of the banana stick the strip of green pepper to simulate the handle. on the top of the banana place the maraschino cherry or a strawberry, keeping it in position with a toothpick. stick a piece of shredded coconut in the cherry for a wick. serve additional salad dressing in tiny bonbon dishes at each plate. serves. 1."    good housekeeping's book of good meals, good housekeeping institute, katharine a. fisher, director [good housekeeping:new york] 1927 (p. 165) [1928] "probably millions of recipes are invented each year. most of them are used only by the composer and few friends or neighbors, others manage to creep into recipe and cook books and live for a number of years, but here and there a recipe is composed that seems to live forever. the old christmas candle salad has been so popular for so many generations that at this time of year it is as much entitled to appear in print once more as is the story of santa and his famous reindeer. "a crisp leaf of lettuce is placed upon a salad plate; a thick slice of seedless orange tops it; a peeled banana cut in two horizontally, is placed upon the center of the orange slice; a maraschino cherry or some other red tasty tops the banana  and there you have the principal ingredients. the orange slice is the candlestick, the banana the candle, and the cherry the flame. a mound of red jelly at the base of the candle and a suitable thick dressing (flavored whipped cream is delicious) poured over the banana at the last minute to represent the flowing wax  and the never dying christmas candle salad is again ready for the christmas meal."   "a christmas candle salad," philadelphia tribune, december 20, 1928 (p. 5) "the evolution of chef's salad what chef dreamed up this salad? food historian evan jones says in his headnote to chef's salad recipe in american food: the gastronomic story (1975): "the origin of this salad is not, apparently, a matter of record, but it may have been made first in the kitchen of the ritz carleton where a recipe used by louis diat called for smoked ox tongue as one of the meats and watercress as the only green leaf." louis diat includes this recipe in cooking a la ritz (1941): "the chef's salad is a familiar yet fading star in the salad world...this still beloved salad may have had a noble beginning. though nobody has ever stepped forward to claim the title of the chef in 'chef's salad,' the dish has been attributed by some food historians to louis diat, the chef of the ritz carton in new york city in the early 1940s...the concept of the chef's salad dates still earlier; one seventeenth century english recipe for a 'grand sallet' calls for lettuce, roast meat, and a slew of vegetables and fruits."    one dish dinners: a new chef's salad, gourmet, august 1999 (p. 100). "salmagundi a dish composed of chopped meat, anchovies, eggs, onions with oil and condiments."    oxford english dictionary, 2nd edition, volume xiv (p. 399) [1674: blount...a dish of meat made of cold turkey and other ingredients.] "salmagundi. a term dating back from the 17th century...in writing about salads of the 17th century, c. anne wilson (1973) explains the term thus: 'sometimes an egg and herb salad was further enhanced by the addition of cold roast capon, anchovies and other meat or fish delicacies. late in the 17th century the name of salmagundi was applied to mixtures of this type, and was subsequently corrupted to solomon gundy.' hannah glasse (1747) has three recipes for salamongundy, but sums up the essence of this dish at the end of the third recipe: 'but you may always make a salamagundy of such things as you have, according to your fancy.'"    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 684 5)[note: mrs. glasse's original salmagundi & modernized version, courtesy of food history news/sandra l. oliver the famous 1926 edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe (we have a 1955 12th printing copy) contains a salad recipe titled "chef's special." (p. 43) it is a far cry from what we know today as chef's salad. it is composed of romaine, endive, grapefruit, pineapple, olives, cream cheese, pimentoes. this book also contains a recipe for salmagundi (p. 170). ingredients are lettuce, cabbage, anchovies, chicken, hard boiled egg yolks, parlsey, green beans. the earliest recipe we have titled "chef's salad" in an american cookbook was published in 1936. [1936] "chef salad. rub a salad bowl with: garlic place in it tender: lettuce leaves add to them: anchovies pitted ripe olives sliced radishes peeled and quartered tomatoes sliced hard cooked eggs shredded swiss cheese peel, slice and add: 3 hard cooked eggs drain and chop: 6 or 8 anchovies peel, slice and add: 2 tomatoes moisten the salad with: french dressing toss it in the bowl. serve it at once."    the joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer [boggs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1936 (p. 266) [note: this recipe is not included in the first edition of joy, circa 1931.] [1937] "chef's salad 1 bunches endive 2 small bunches water cress 1 head lettuce 2 small stalks celery 10 anchovies 3 tomatoes, peeled 3 hard cooked eggs cut salad greens into pieces, and place in mixing bowl. arrange anchovies and quarters of tomato and egg over top. serve with chef's salad dressing."    my new better homes & gardens cook book, revised edition, [meredith publishing:des moines ia] 1937 (p. 6) "chef's salad dressing 1 small package roquefort cheese 1 teaspoon anchovy paste 1/8 teaspoon a 1 sauce juice 1/2 lemon 1/2 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons vinegar 1/2 clove garlic, minced salt and pepper to taste. crumble cheese with fork. add other ingredients and mix thoroly. pour over salad of greens and toss with a fork. chill before serving. (makes 3/4 cup)"    ibid (p. 14) [1939] "cliff edwards' chef's salad you'd have to see cliff edwards ordering the ingredients for his chef's salad in his favorite restaurants and combining them at the table to realize how easily and quickly it can be mixed. 2 lettuce hearts 2 celery hearts 1 small bunch watercress 1 small bunch chicory 1 cup baked diced ham 3 tomatoes, quartered. method: 1. tear hearts of lettuce into good sized pieces. 2. chop together with hearts of celery, watercress, and chicory. mix with ham. 3. add tomatoes to this. serve with the following french dressing: 1 clove garlic juice of one lemon 1/2 cup italian olive oil 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 hard cooked eggs method: 1. rub salad bowl with garlic. add lemon juice and olive oil. 2. beat for a few minutes with an egg beater. after the dressing has thickened slightly, add vegetables and ham. mix thoroughly. 3. garnish with parlsey and eggs. serve at table from bowl. serves 4 to 6. note: this will serve 6 persons with a dinner course; 4 persons, if served as main luncheon course."    prudence penny's cookbook, prudence penny, home economics editor of the los angles examiner [prencie hall:new york] 1939 (p. 350) [1941] "chef's salad place separately in a salad bowl equal amounts of chopped lettuce (placed on the bottom of the bowl), boiled chicken, smoked ox tongue and smoked ham, cut in julienne style. add 1/2 hard boiled egg for each portion. place some water cress in the center and serve with french dressing."    cooking a la ritz, louis diat [j.b. lippincott:new york] 1941 (p. 31) about french dressing "salmagundi. a term dating back from the 17th century...in writing about salads of the 17th century, c. anne wilson (1973) explains the term thus: 'sometimes an egg and herb salad was further enhanced by the addition of cold roast capon, anchovies and other meat or fish delicacies. late in the 17th century the name of salmagundi was applied to mixtures of this type, and was subsequently corrupted to solomon gundy.' hannah glasse (1747) has three recipes for salamongundy, but sums up the essence of this dish at the end of the third recipe: 'but you may always make a salamagundy of such things as you have, according to your fancy.'"    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 684 5)[note: mrs. glasse's original salmagundi & modernized version, courtesy of food history news/sandra l. oliver the famous 1926 edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe (we have a 1955 12th printing copy) contains a salad recipe titled "chef's special." (p. 43) it is a far cry from what we know today as chef's salad. it is composed of romaine, endive, grapefruit, pineapple, olives, cream cheese, pimentoes. this book also contains a recipe for salmagundi (p. 170). ingredients are lettuce, cabbage, anchovies, chicken, hard boiled egg yolks, parlsey, green beans. the earliest recipe we have titled "chef's salad" in an american cookbook was published in 1936. [1937] "chef's salad 1 bunches endive 2 small bunches water cress 1 head lettuce 2 small stalks celery 10 anchovies 3 tomatoes, peeled 3 hard cooked eggs cut salad greens into pieces, and place in mixing bowl. arrange anchovies and quarters of tomato and egg over top. serve with chef's salad dressing."    my new better homes & gardens cook book, revised edition, [meredith publishing:des moines ia] 1937 (p. 6) "chef's salad dressing 1 small package roquefort cheese 1 teaspoon anchovy paste 1/8 teaspoon a 1 sauce juice 1/2 lemon 1/2 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons vinegar 1/2 clove garlic, minced salt and pepper to taste. crumble cheese with fork. add other ingredients and mix thoroly. pour over salad of greens and toss with a fork. chill before serving. (makes 3/4 cup)"    ibid (p. 14) [1939] "cliff edwards' chef's salad you'd have to see cliff edwards ordering the ingredients for his chef's salad in his favorite restaurants and combining them at the table to realize how easily and quickly it can be mixed. 2 lettuce hearts 2 celery hearts 1 small bunch watercress 1 small bunch chicory 1 cup baked diced ham 3 tomatoes, quartered. method: 1. tear hearts of lettuce into good sized pieces. 2. chop together with hearts of celery, watercress, and chicory. mix with ham. 3. add tomatoes to this. serve with the following french dressing: 1 clove garlic juice of one lemon 1/2 cup italian olive oil 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 hard cooked eggs method: 1. rub salad bowl with garlic. add lemon juice and olive oil. 2. beat for a few minutes with an egg beater. after the dressing has thickened slightly, add vegetables and ham. mix thoroughly. 3. garnish with parlsey and eggs. serve at table from bowl. serves 4 to 6. note: this will serve 6 persons with a dinner course; 4 persons, if served as main luncheon course."    prudence penny's cookbook, prudence penny, home economics editor of the los angles examiner [prencie hall:new york] 1939 (p. 350) [1941] "chef's salad place separately in a salad bowl equal amounts of chopped lettuce (placed on the bottom of the bowl), boiled chicken, smoked ox tongue and smoked ham, cut in julienne style. add 1/2 hard boiled egg for each portion. place some water cress in the center and serve with french dressing."    cooking a la ritz, louis diat [j.b. lippincott:new york] 1941 (p. 31) what is the differernce between chef's salad and cobb salad? "cobb salad" is a singnature dish *invented* at the brown derby restaurant (los angeles, california) by the owner, bob cobb. there is one specific recipe. "chef salad" is a generic recipe for a modern composed salad. there are many variations. the best way to examine the difference between these two dishes are checking recipes for both published in the same book. what better example than the brown derby's own cookbook? "derby chef salad, serves 2 4 cups mixed greens (lettuce, romaine, chiclory, watercress) 1/2 cup diced celery 1/2 cup diced baked ham 1 hard cooked egg, chopped fine 1 tbs. finely chopped parsley 1 1/2 tomato, cut in quarters 1/2 cup derby old fashioned french dressing toss mixed greens in a medium sized, ice cold salad bowl. on top of them sprinkle celery, ham, egg, parsley. on sides of bowl lay quartered tomatoes. serve in the bowl with french dressing."    ibid, (p. 56) "brown derby old fashioned french dressing, 1 1/2 qts. this is the french dressing which became so popular among the stars that the brown derby was prevailed upon to bottle it for home use. the cup of water is optional, depending opon the degree of oiliness desired in this dressing 1 cup water 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 tsp. sugar juice of 1/2 lemon 2 1/2 tbs. salt 1 tbs. ground black pepper 1 tbs. worcestershire sauce 1 tsp. english mustard 1 bead garlic, chopped 1 cup olive oil 3 cups salad oil blend together all ingredients except oils. the add olive and salad oils and mix well again. chill. shake before serving. this dressing keeps well in the refrigerator. can be made and stored in a 2 qt. mason jar."    ibid, (p. 68 69) chicken salad culinary evidence (old cookbooks, menus etc.) confirms minced cooked meat and mayonnaise type salads were popular in america from colonial times present. these were culinary traditions brought to our shores by european (especially german) settlers. primary evidence suggests early 19th century meat salads were composed as primary dishes, not a thrifty mode for repurposing leftovers. of course, cookbooks only tell part of the story. thrifty cooks have been repurosing leftovers from ancient times forwards. lobster, chicken, ham, and mutton salads were popular in the mid late 19th century. this correlates with the aggressive promotion of household meat choppers. coincidence? probably not. twentieth century tuna salad descends from this culinary tradition. vintage american recipe sampler [1865] "no. 90.  turkey salad. cut some of the meat from a cold boiled or braised turkey in small pieces, and put them into a deep dish with four table spoonfuls of good salad oil, and one and a half of vinegar, a small onion, a shallot, some parsley, green tarragon, and chervil, all chopped fine, and salt and pepper. let the pieces of turkey soak in this for four hours, turning them occasionally, and covering the dish closely. then put some well dried and shred lettuce on a dish, take the pieces of turkey from the oil and vinegar, and arrange them in the centre of the lettuce. take two raw yolks of eggs, beat them a little in a basin, and add by slow degrees the oil, vinegar, chopped herbs, etc., from which you have taken the turkey, stirring all the time till the sauce is quite smooth; taste it, and, if necessary, add more salt or pepper; pour this sauce over the turkey and salad; arrange round the edge, or in a pattern in the centre, as you like best, olives and slices of hard boiled eggs alternately, and serve."    what to do with the cold mutton [bunce and huntington:new york] 1865. (p. 57) [1869] "chicken salad. a pair of fowl weighing about six pounds will make a nice dish of salad. the chickens should be well boiled. take off all the skin (some persons do not use the dark meat; it is quite as tender as the white, and when dressed, does not show the difference); chop the meat very fine (be sure to take out good heads of tennis ball lettuce into quarters; wash it all clean, and lay it in ice water for two or three hours, that it may be crisp). if celery is used, split it fine, and put into ice water as long as you would the lettuce, as it must be brittle to be good."    mrs. putnam's receipt book [sheldon and company:new york] (p. 240) "chicken salad. made by not chopping or cutting the chicken, is very nice. either boiled or roast chicken may be skinned, then pull the meat off the bone in small pieces, and dress it the same as the other chicken salad. the chicken myst be cooked very tender to pull off in nice pieces. for evening company it is best to cut the lettuce or celery, and mix with the meat or lobster, and serve it in a salad bowl." (ibid, p. 124) [1877] chicken salad buckeye cookery, estelle woods wilcox [1884] chicken salad i & ii the boston cooking school cook book, mrs. d.a. lincoln [1899] "chicken salad draw, singe, and boil the chicken. when done and perfectly cold, remove the skin and cut the meat into dice. if you want it very nice, use only the white meat; save the dark for croquettes. after you have cut it, set it away in a cold place until wanted. wash and cut the white parts of celery into pieces abut a half inch long, throw them into a bowl of cold water, and also set them until wanted. to every pint of chicken allow two thirds of a pint of celery and a cup and a half of mayonnaise dressing. when ready to serve, dry the celery and mix with the chicken; dust lightly with salt, white pepper or cayenne, then mix it with the mayonnaise. serve on a a cold dish, garnished with white celery tips. one cup of white cream may be added to every one half pint of mayonnaise when ready to use it. it makes the dressing lighter, with less of the oily flavor."    the american pure food cook book, david chidow [geo. m. hill company:chicago] 1899 (p. 133) [1911] "what to do with left over poultry. chicken salad. cut the cold chicken from the bones, using all the small bits. have pieces uniform in size, and in shape of small cubes. scrape celery and let stand several hours in ice water, then dry in a clean napkin. use half as much celery as chicken, and cut into pieces half the size. make a french dressing of 1 tablespoonful lemon juice 3 tablespoonfuls oil 1/4 teaspoonful salt 1/8 teaspoonful white pepper pour this over the chicken and celery,mix well, and put into ice box to stand for fifteen minutes. drain the liquid from some canned sweet red peppers, and chop with stoned olives. mix with the salad, and just before it is served pour mayonnaise dressing over it, tossing it over and over with a silver fork until each piece is coated with the dressing. put into a salad bowl, or on individual plates, and garnish with small tender ends and leaves of the celery, whole olives, and a few tiny cucumber pickles. serve very cold."    cook book of left overs, helen carroll clarke [harper & brothers:new york] (p. 53) [1930] "chicken salad (1) (the old way of making it) 2 large chickens, boiled 6 hard boiled eggs 4 uncooked egg yolks 4 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 1/4 teaspoonful cayenne pepper 6 stalks celery 2 teaspoonfuls mustard 1 teaspoonful salt 4 tablespoonfuls vinegar 6 tablespoonfuls milk 1 pint bottle olive oil chop the chicken, white and dark meat, not too fine, being careful to remove every bit of skin and not to use hard or gristly parts. parts. cut up the celery and chop the hard boiled eggs, salt and pepper to taste. make a dressing of the rest of the ingredients by mixing the egg yolks, mustard, salt and pepper together until smooth and thick, drop in the oil a little at a time, then add vinegar, lemon juice and lastly, milk. just before you are ready to serve mix all the ingredients together and mix with the dressing." "chicken salad (2) chicken salad may be made from roast or boiled chicken  roast chicken retains more of the chicken flavor, but boiled chicken has a more delicate flavor. 1 cup tender white celery 2 cups cold chicken, chopped 1 hard boiled egg 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1 teaspoonful vinegar lettuce 2 tablespoons sweet sour pickle 1 teaspoonful celery seed tiny pinch mustard salt and pepper do not cut the chicken meat too small and be sure that no skin is left. only tender meat should be used by a little dark meat adds to the flavor. cut the celery in small pieces, being careful to remove any hard bits. chop up the white of the egg, blend the yolk with the vinegar and stir into the mayonnaise. chop up the pickle; cucumbers are best to use. when you are ready to serve the salad mix all the ingredients and serve on delicate leaves of lettuce."    old southern recipes, mary d. pretlow [robert m. mcbride & company:new york] 1930 (p. 177 178) [1954] "chicken salad 1 hen, baked until very tender, chopped 1 apple, chopped 1 bunch celery, chopped 8 hard boiled eggs, chopped 1 pint salad dressing home cooked dressing as follows: 1 cup vinegar butter size of walnut 1 teaspoon dry mustard dash red pepper 2 tablespoons sugar 2 eggs salt and pepper to taste nut meats, if desired bring vinegar, sugar and butter to a boil. pour over the well beaten eggs. add mustard, salt, pepper, and dash of red pepper; then put this back on the stove and cook slowly, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens. when cool, add most of this cooked dressing to the above ingredients and season well with salt and pepper. nuts may be added, if desired. serves 12 15. mrs. ben c. worlkman, laurens county."<    the south carolina cook book, collected and edited by the south carolina extension homemaker council and the clemsen extension home economics staff, revised edition [university of south carolina press:columbia sc] 1954 (p. 268) [1961] "chicken salad (serves 4) 2 1/2 cups of cubed cold chicken 1 cup of chopped celery mauonnaise to taste greens garnishes cut the cold cooked chiken in even cubes, being careful to remove all gristle, fat skin and bone. you need pure, lean meat for salad. combine 2 1/2 cups of the cubed meat with 1 cup of chopped raw celery and blend with mayonnaise to taste. pile on a bed of romaine or boston lettuce and garnish with any or all of the following: tomato quarters, slcied hard cooked egg, capers, pimiento strips, stuffed olives. "variations. with nuts: add 1/2 cup of chopped, toasted almonds, walnuts, filberts or pecans. with green onion: add 1/2 cup of chopped green onion."    james beard cook book, james beard [e.p. dutton:new york] 1961 (p. 385) [note: mr. beard also offers recipes for turkey salad, veal salad, lamb salad, beef salad and ham salad.] chinese chicken salad according to american food historian sylvia lovegren, chinese ingredient inspired salad/dressing originated in the 1930s. our survey confirms several 1930s mainstream america recipes titled "chinese chicken salad." they are a far cry from what anerican diners expect today. our chinese food history sources confirm raw salads were not tradtional fare in asia. so unfolds another delicious page in chinese american cuisine. "salad made with uncooked vegetables was not consumed in traditional china, for raw salads were dangerous and had little appeal to most chinese; instead, chinese salads were customarily made of parboiled or stir fried vegetables and served with hot or cold."   food in china: a cultural and historial inquiry, frederick j. simoons [crc press:boca raton fl] 1991 (p. 148) "there are many different types of cold chicken salad in china, although most of them seem to originate in szechwan. one of the most popular is pong pong (or bong bong) chicken, which is basically shredded chicken and bean sprouts dressed with a peanut butter, red pepper, and garlic sauce. but the chinese chicken salad that was being consumed in such quantities by the fashionable set  probably among rising young record and film producers on the west coast  probably orginated in california. this version is a cold mixture of shredded iceberg lettuce, crispy fried noodles, the strips of roasted chicken, all tossed with a slightly sweet sesame oil  tinged dressing made sprightly with flecks of hot red peppers. there is a similar chicken salad, known as so see chicken, made popular at johnny kan's restaurant in san francisco, but kan's version omits the fried noodles."    "exotic interlude i," fashionable food: seven decades of food fads, sylvia lovegren [macmillan:new york] 1995 (p. 109 110) who was johnny kan? predictably, our early 20th century salad cookbooks [1900 1950s] offer several recipes for various "oriental" salads. the surprise? none of these recipes are similar to the menu items we expect today. neither did these books offer anything close to contemporary asian/oriental style (sesame soy ginger) salad dressing. one recipe circa 1923 consisted of diced prunes, dates, figs, chopped nuts, diced pineapple topped with "one cup salad dressing." these salads were generally topped with vinaigrette or spiced mayonnaises. none of the examples we found included sesame, or ginger. some did employ soy sauce. our survey of american newspapers confirms chinese chicken salads were indeed popular in the 1930s. as one might expect, there were several variations for both salad and dressing. asian salads/dressings, as we know them today, first surfaced in the mid 1960s. articles confirm the popularity and diversity of this salad/dressing grew in subsequent decades. asian style salad dressings were promoted in the 1980s as healthier alternatives to traditional selections. thai flavors are introduced in the 1990s. today there are many variations on this ubiquitious recipe. a survey of chinese chicken salad recipes through time [1936] "chinese chicken salad probably one of the most popular company luncheon salads in is the chicken salad. there is a standard recipe for it and to that one recipe most people cling. here is a grand new one that really deserves a chance at your next luncheon, accompanied by clear soup, and chocolate ice cream, cake and tea. what better menu could you ask: 1 cup almonds 2 tablespoons gelatine 1/4 cup cold water 1 3/4 cup boiling chicken stock 1 cup pineapple juice 1/2 teaspoon paprika 2 1/2 cups finely cut boiled chicken chili sauce horseradish lettuce whipped cream salt to taste blanch the almonds, then place them in a hot oven until they are quite brown. shred very fine. soften the gelatine in the cold water, add the boiling stock and stir until gelatine is dissolved. add the pineapple juice and strain through a fine sieve. add salt to taste and paprika. arrange the chicken, pineapple and almonds in a mold; add the chilled liquid and place in coldest part of refrigerator to set. unmold on a large platter garnished with lettuce or chicory and serve with it a dressing of whipped cream, to which a little chili sauce and horseradish have been added. this makes eight to ten servings"    "chinese chicken salad," frederick news post [md], june 12, 1936 (p. 9) [note: compare with this recipe c. 1931: "chicken, pineapple and almond salad. dissolve 1 level tablespoon gelatine in 1/4 cup cold water. place cup in hot water until dissolved. beat gelatine into 1 cup of mayonnaise. add 2 cups of whipped cream, 1 1/2 cups diced chicken, 3/4 cup chopped blanched almonds, 3/4 cup chopped pineapple, 3/4 cup of chopped celery aalt to taste. put into ring mould or individual moulds. serve with a small quantity of mayonnaise thinned with cream.  mrs. warren e. libby."   fashions in beverly hills, beverly hills womans club [beverly hills citizen:beverly hills] 1931 (p. 41) [1938] "chinese chicken salad dice three cups cold cooked chicken. boil one half pound of bean sprouts and drain in cold water. chop fine two stalks celery. season with sald and pepper and french dressing. chill. serve with mayonnaise flavored with soy sauce."    "oriental dishes easy to prepare," lona gilbert, los angeles times, december 7, 1938 (p. a9) [1947] "chinese chicken salad toasted buttered cracker or corn muffins, fresh peach slices on gingerbread quare and coffe ging the meal to a tasty finish. combine 2 cups each diced cooked chicken and bean sprouts, 1 cup each pineapple chunks and chopped cucumber, and 2/3 cup shredded almonds; chill. just before serving, add sufficient mayonnaise to moisten and season to taste with sald and lemon juice. toss lightly 10 minutes. serve on chinese fried noodles for a crisp, nut crunchy flavor. serves 6."    "make the salad, make the meal," los angeles times, july 16, 1947 (p. 6) [1954] "chinese chicken salad 2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin 1/4 cup cold water 1 1/2 cups boiling chicken stock (can be made wiht chicken bouillon cubes) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon paprika 2 1/2 cups minced cooked chicken or use caned boned chicken 1 1/2 cup drained pineapple 1 cup shredded, toasted almonds lettuce or endive mustard cream mayonnaise method: soften gelatin in cold water five minutes; dissolve over hot water. add to boiling chicken stock; seasonings and pineapple juice. chill. when slightly thickened, fold in chicken, pineapple and almonds. turn into large rinsed mold; chill until firm. unmold on large platter, garnish with lettuce or endive and serve with mayonnaise. makes eight servings. accompany with baking powder biscuits and orange marmalade."    "marian manners: wealth of menu ideas lightens strain on luncheon hostess," roxie howlett, los angeles times, january 29, 1954 (p. b4) [1961] "chinese chicken sesame salad 3 lb. chicken breasts 2 tablespoons oil, butter or margarine 2 teaspoons sesame seed 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1/2 cup chopped parsley 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 medium size head lettuce, shredded renmove bones and skin from uncooked chicken, using sharp knife. cut meat into thin strips. saute chicken and sesame seed in oil or butter until golden brown, adding more oil or butter, if needed. stir in soy sauce, parsley and salt. pour over well chilled shredded lettuce and toss lightly. makes six servings."    "simple and satisfying salads form around the world," marian manners, los angeles times, may 4, 1961 (p. a1) [1963] "chinese chicken salad arthur wong...popular proprietor of the far east terrace in north hollywood (and part time actor), had a few of us up to his beautiful hillside oriental house for dinner recently. among other delicacies, which he prepared himself, he served sai soo gai (chinese chicken salad). i demanded the recipe. and here it is (for 4): 1/2 lb. of white chicken meat, cooked and shredded; 2 oz. sai fon (bean thread) deep fried until light brown; 1 small head of lettuce, shredded; 4 strands green onions, shredded; 2 tablespoons of chopped toasted almonds; 2 tablespoons of chopped toasted almonds; 2 tablespoons of toasted sesame seeds; 2 tablespoons of sugar; 1 level teaspoon of salt; 1 level teaspoon of monosoduium glutamate; 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper; 1/4 cup of salad oil, and 3 tablespoons of vinegar. combine ingredients and mix  just before serving. delicious. (now, all you have to do is try to find those ingredients in your cupboard.)."    "round about," los angeles times,, june 30, 1963 (p. b28) [1974] "mrs. fayne lutz of taos, n.m. won the grand prize of $10,000 at the national chicken contest for her recipe for hot chinese chicken salad. "hot chinese chicken salad 8 broiler fryer chicken thighs, skinned, oned, cut into 1 inch chunks 1/2 cup corn starch 1/4 cup mazola corn oil 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1 bunch green onions, coarsly chopped 1 large ripe tomato, cut into chunks 1 can (4 ounces) water chestnuts, drained, sliced 1 can (4 ounces) sliced mushrooms, drained 1 cup slant sliced celery 1 teaspoon ac'cent flavor enhancer 1/2 cup soy sauce 2 cups finely chredded iceberg lettuce roll chicken in corn starch. heat corn oil in fry pan or wok over high heat. add chicken chunks and quickly brown. sprinkle with garlic powder. add tomato, water chestnuts, mushrooms, onion, and celery. stir. sprinkle with flavor enhancer. add soy sauce. stir. cover, reduce heat to simmer and cook 5 minutes. lightly toss chicken vegetable mix with lettuce. serve hot with rice. makes 4 servings."    "prize winning chicken salad," phyllis hanes, the times [san mateo ca], august 20, 1974 (p. 12) [1980] "combine a taste of chinese food and a taste for salads and it's inevitable that anyone who fancies both will eventually come across the dish known as chinese chicken salad. but one chinese chicken salad can be as different from another chinese chicken salad as a pair of fraternal twins. this possibly could be because salads as the western world knows them definately are not part of the overall chinese cuisine. raw vegetables, simply don't play an important role in the meals of the chinese. so where did the first chinese chicken salad appear? who knows? it's likely, however, that today's many versions of chinese chicken salad stem from any number of cold shredded chicken dishes that are indeed very much a part of chinese cuisine. whatever the origin, chinese chicken salad is a popular menu item at numerous chinese and non chinese restaurants. some chefs depend on chow mein noodles or rice sticks to provide a bit of crunchy texture in their salads, while other simply rely on a variety of tender vegetables for a crispy touch. one thing hey have in common is that nearly all of these wonderful salads call for soy sauce, sesame oil or seeds, ginger and other typical chinese flavorings. only a few of the most popualr versions call for exotic ingredients sude as dried bean curd and black fungus. whether these sometimes hot, sometimes cold dishes are true salads or not really doesn't matter. they taste wonderful and that's all, really, that's important. a recent taste test on some of the chicken salad recipes that have found a home in the times recipe files pointed out the wonderufl creativity possible when one chooses chinese flavorings to satisfy a craving for chicken salad. the spicy sweetness of hoisin sauce, for instance, turned the slaad form the jade west restaurant into an excellent light luncheon choice, while the salad from le grand buffet with its accent on crisp vegetables and delicate sherry dressing would fill the bill nicely as a separate course or side dish salad. "chinese chicken salad le grand buffet 4 whole chicken breasts 1 1/2 cups chicken broth 1 bunch green onions, sliced diagonally 1 cup water chestnuts, sliced 1 cup sesame seeds, toasted lightly 1 pound chinese pea pods, trimmed and slcied julienne dijon sherry dressing salt, pepper poach chicken breasts in chicken broth over medium heat 20 minutes, or until done. let cook in broth. remove from broth, remove skin from breasts and cut meat into 1/4 inch slices. crisp breen onions in iced water in bowl. mix chicken, water chestnuts, sesame seeds, pea pods and green onions in large bowl. toss with as much dijon sherry dressing as desired. season to taste with salt and pepper. makes 8 servings."    "chinese chicken salad: the meeting of east and west," betsat balsle, los angeles times, may 29, 1980 (p. j1) [2004] "chinese chicken salad, an umbrella organization of a dish liberally sprinkled on menus ranging from applebee's and fresh choice to the corner sichuan restaurant...at the extreme yankee end of the spectrum, there's the oriental chicken salad, a recipe so far removed from its country of origin it never got the memo that we don't call it the orient anymore. heinous contributions to this version that i've encountered include yogurt, pineapple chunks, ham, cheese, and even cornflakes, draped with a dressing that throws together (in part or whole) honey, orange juice, mayonnaise, cider vinegar, and dijon mustard. less egregiously western (though still high on the cultural embarrassment scale) is a rendition i recently had    believe it or not    at california crisp in stonestown mall. here, romaine lettuce was combined with chunks of chicken and tossed with crispy noodle bits, bean sprouts, water chestnuts, and slivered almonds in a tangy sweet vinaigrette. and at the opposite end of the spectrum is ...cold chicken noodle salad. blessedly, the menu simply lists this sublime dish as "cold noodle salad." ...to be fair, other than being chilled, this dish is about as close to an applebee's chinese chicken salad as clam chowder is to bouillabaisse. for one thing, it actually has origins in china, though it's no doubt been dumbed down a bit for american tastes. for another, no actual lettuce is used in the making of this salad. it begins with cold linguine width rice flour noodles, on which are piled hand shredded roast chicken, scallions, and cucumber slivers sprinkled with crushed peanuts. the whole thing is tossed in a dressing    really more of a sauce    that combines sesame oil, peanut butter, chicken broth, ginger, garlic, red chili, and rice vinegar in a wonderfully light and tangy blend that's spicy enough to make you sweat and cold enough to keep you from overheating."    "doing chicken right:how to avoid glorified americanese dressed up as ethnic kweezeen," bonnie wach, sf weekly (california), march 24, 2004 section: dining/food french dressing & vinaigrette in france, oil & vinegar dressings are called vinaigrette. the term "french dressing" (used to denote vinaigrette and its many variations) became popular in britain and america in the late 19th century. the tomato based french dressing we americans currently purchase in grocery stores probably also began in the twentieth century. "salad made with uncooked vegetables was not consumed in traditional china, for raw salads were dangerous and had little appeal to most chinese; instead, chinese salads were customarily made of parboiled or stir fried vegetables and served with hot or cold."   food in china: a cultural and historial inquiry, frederick j. simoons [crc press:boca raton fl] 1991 (p. 148) "there are many different types of cold chicken salad in china, although most of them seem to originate in szechwan. one of the most popular is pong pong (or bong bong) chicken, which is basically shredded chicken and bean sprouts dressed with a peanut butter, red pepper, and garlic sauce. but the chinese chicken salad that was being consumed in such quantities by the fashionable set  probably among rising young record and film producers on the west coast  probably orginated in california. this version is a cold mixture of shredded iceberg lettuce, crispy fried noodles, the strips of roasted chicken, all tossed with a slightly sweet sesame oil  tinged dressing made sprightly with flecks of hot red peppers. there is a similar chicken salad, known as so see chicken, made popular at johnny kan's restaurant in san francisco, but kan's version omits the fried noodles."    "exotic interlude i," fashionable food: seven decades of food fads, sylvia lovegren [macmillan:new york] 1995 (p. 109 110) who was johnny kan? predictably, our early 20th century salad cookbooks [1900 1950s] offer several recipes for various "oriental" salads. the surprise? none of these recipes are similar to the menu items we expect today. neither did these books offer anything close to contemporary asian/oriental style (sesame soy ginger) salad dressing. one recipe circa 1923 consisted of diced prunes, dates, figs, chopped nuts, diced pineapple topped with "one cup salad dressing." these salads were generally topped with vinaigrette or spiced mayonnaises. none of the examples we found included sesame, or ginger. some did employ soy sauce. our survey of american newspapers confirms chinese chicken salads were indeed popular in the 1930s. as one might expect, there were several variations for both salad and dressing. asian salads/dressings, as we know them today, first surfaced in the mid 1960s. articles confirm the popularity and diversity of this salad/dressing grew in subsequent decades. asian style salad dressings were promoted in the 1980s as healthier alternatives to traditional selections. thai flavors are introduced in the 1990s. today there are many variations on this ubiquitious recipe. a survey of chinese chicken salad recipes through time 1 cup almonds 2 tablespoons gelatine 1/4 cup cold water 1 3/4 cup boiling chicken stock 1 cup pineapple juice 1/2 teaspoon paprika 2 1/2 cups finely cut boiled chicken chili sauce horseradish lettuce whipped cream salt to taste blanch the almonds, then place them in a hot oven until they are quite brown. shred very fine. soften the gelatine in the cold water, add the boiling stock and stir until gelatine is dissolved. add the pineapple juice and strain through a fine sieve. add salt to taste and paprika. arrange the chicken, pineapple and almonds in a mold; add the chilled liquid and place in coldest part of refrigerator to set. unmold on a large platter garnished with lettuce or chicory and serve with it a dressing of whipped cream, to which a little chili sauce and horseradish have been added. this makes eight to ten servings"    "chinese chicken salad," frederick news post [md], june 12, 1936 (p. 9) [note: compare with this recipe c. 1931: "chicken, pineapple and almond salad. dissolve 1 level tablespoon gelatine in 1/4 cup cold water. place cup in hot water until dissolved. beat gelatine into 1 cup of mayonnaise. add 2 cups of whipped cream, 1 1/2 cups diced chicken, 3/4 cup chopped blanched almonds, 3/4 cup chopped pineapple, 3/4 cup of chopped celery aalt to taste. put into ring mould or individual moulds. serve with a small quantity of mayonnaise thinned with cream.  mrs. warren e. libby."   fashions in beverly hills, beverly hills womans club [beverly hills citizen:beverly hills] 1931 (p. 41) [1938] "chinese chicken salad dice three cups cold cooked chicken. boil one half pound of bean sprouts and drain in cold water. chop fine two stalks celery. season with sald and pepper and french dressing. chill. serve with mayonnaise flavored with soy sauce."    "oriental dishes easy to prepare," lona gilbert, los angeles times, december 7, 1938 (p. a9) [1947] "chinese chicken salad toasted buttered cracker or corn muffins, fresh peach slices on gingerbread quare and coffe ging the meal to a tasty finish. combine 2 cups each diced cooked chicken and bean sprouts, 1 cup each pineapple chunks and chopped cucumber, and 2/3 cup shredded almonds; chill. just before serving, add sufficient mayonnaise to moisten and season to taste with sald and lemon juice. toss lightly 10 minutes. serve on chinese fried noodles for a crisp, nut crunchy flavor. serves 6."    "make the salad, make the meal," los angeles times, july 16, 1947 (p. 6) [1954] "chinese chicken salad 2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin 1/4 cup cold water 1 1/2 cups boiling chicken stock (can be made wiht chicken bouillon cubes) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon paprika 2 1/2 cups minced cooked chicken or use caned boned chicken 1 1/2 cup drained pineapple 1 cup shredded, toasted almonds lettuce or endive mustard cream mayonnaise method: soften gelatin in cold water five minutes; dissolve over hot water. add to boiling chicken stock; seasonings and pineapple juice. chill. when slightly thickened, fold in chicken, pineapple and almonds. turn into large rinsed mold; chill until firm. unmold on large platter, garnish with lettuce or endive and serve with mayonnaise. makes eight servings. accompany with baking powder biscuits and orange marmalade."    "marian manners: wealth of menu ideas lightens strain on luncheon hostess," roxie howlett, los angeles times, january 29, 1954 (p. b4) [1961] "chinese chicken sesame salad 3 lb. chicken breasts 2 tablespoons oil, butter or margarine 2 teaspoons sesame seed 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1/2 cup chopped parsley 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 medium size head lettuce, shredded renmove bones and skin from uncooked chicken, using sharp knife. cut meat into thin strips. saute chicken and sesame seed in oil or butter until golden brown, adding more oil or butter, if needed. stir in soy sauce, parsley and salt. pour over well chilled shredded lettuce and toss lightly. makes six servings."    "simple and satisfying salads form around the world," marian manners, los angeles times, may 4, 1961 (p. a1) [1963] "chinese chicken salad arthur wong...popular proprietor of the far east terrace in north hollywood (and part time actor), had a few of us up to his beautiful hillside oriental house for dinner recently. among other delicacies, which he prepared himself, he served sai soo gai (chinese chicken salad). i demanded the recipe. and here it is (for 4): 1/2 lb. of white chicken meat, cooked and shredded; 2 oz. sai fon (bean thread) deep fried until light brown; 1 small head of lettuce, shredded; 4 strands green onions, shredded; 2 tablespoons of chopped toasted almonds; 2 tablespoons of chopped toasted almonds; 2 tablespoons of toasted sesame seeds; 2 tablespoons of sugar; 1 level teaspoon of salt; 1 level teaspoon of monosoduium glutamate; 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper; 1/4 cup of salad oil, and 3 tablespoons of vinegar. combine ingredients and mix  just before serving. delicious. (now, all you have to do is try to find those ingredients in your cupboard.)."    "round about," los angeles times,, june 30, 1963 (p. b28) [1974] "mrs. fayne lutz of taos, n.m. won the grand prize of $10,000 at the national chicken contest for her recipe for hot chinese chicken salad. "hot chinese chicken salad 8 broiler fryer chicken thighs, skinned, oned, cut into 1 inch chunks 1/2 cup corn starch 1/4 cup mazola corn oil 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1 bunch green onions, coarsly chopped 1 large ripe tomato, cut into chunks 1 can (4 ounces) water chestnuts, drained, sliced 1 can (4 ounces) sliced mushrooms, drained 1 cup slant sliced celery 1 teaspoon ac'cent flavor enhancer 1/2 cup soy sauce 2 cups finely chredded iceberg lettuce roll chicken in corn starch. heat corn oil in fry pan or wok over high heat. add chicken chunks and quickly brown. sprinkle with garlic powder. add tomato, water chestnuts, mushrooms, onion, and celery. stir. sprinkle with flavor enhancer. add soy sauce. stir. cover, reduce heat to simmer and cook 5 minutes. lightly toss chicken vegetable mix with lettuce. serve hot with rice. makes 4 servings."    "prize winning chicken salad," phyllis hanes, the times [san mateo ca], august 20, 1974 (p. 12) [1980] "combine a taste of chinese food and a taste for salads and it's inevitable that anyone who fancies both will eventually come across the dish known as chinese chicken salad. but one chinese chicken salad can be as different from another chinese chicken salad as a pair of fraternal twins. this possibly could be because salads as the western world knows them definately are not part of the overall chinese cuisine. raw vegetables, simply don't play an important role in the meals of the chinese. so where did the first chinese chicken salad appear? who knows? it's likely, however, that today's many versions of chinese chicken salad stem from any number of cold shredded chicken dishes that are indeed very much a part of chinese cuisine. whatever the origin, chinese chicken salad is a popular menu item at numerous chinese and non chinese restaurants. some chefs depend on chow mein noodles or rice sticks to provide a bit of crunchy texture in their salads, while other simply rely on a variety of tender vegetables for a crispy touch. one thing hey have in common is that nearly all of these wonderful salads call for soy sauce, sesame oil or seeds, ginger and other typical chinese flavorings. only a few of the most popualr versions call for exotic ingredients sude as dried bean curd and black fungus. whether these sometimes hot, sometimes cold dishes are true salads or not really doesn't matter. they taste wonderful and that's all, really, that's important. a recent taste test on some of the chicken salad recipes that have found a home in the times recipe files pointed out the wonderufl creativity possible when one chooses chinese flavorings to satisfy a craving for chicken salad. the spicy sweetness of hoisin sauce, for instance, turned the slaad form the jade west restaurant into an excellent light luncheon choice, while the salad from le grand buffet with its accent on crisp vegetables and delicate sherry dressing would fill the bill nicely as a separate course or side dish salad. "chinese chicken salad le grand buffet 4 whole chicken breasts 1 1/2 cups chicken broth 1 bunch green onions, sliced diagonally 1 cup water chestnuts, sliced 1 cup sesame seeds, toasted lightly 1 pound chinese pea pods, trimmed and slcied julienne dijon sherry dressing salt, pepper poach chicken breasts in chicken broth over medium heat 20 minutes, or until done. let cook in broth. remove from broth, remove skin from breasts and cut meat into 1/4 inch slices. crisp breen onions in iced water in bowl. mix chicken, water chestnuts, sesame seeds, pea pods and green onions in large bowl. toss with as much dijon sherry dressing as desired. season to taste with salt and pepper. makes 8 servings."    "chinese chicken salad: the meeting of east and west," betsat balsle, los angeles times, may 29, 1980 (p. j1) [2004] "chinese chicken salad, an umbrella organization of a dish liberally sprinkled on menus ranging from applebee's and fresh choice to the corner sichuan restaurant...at the extreme yankee end of the spectrum, there's the oriental chicken salad, a recipe so far removed from its country of origin it never got the memo that we don't call it the orient anymore. heinous contributions to this version that i've encountered include yogurt, pineapple chunks, ham, cheese, and even cornflakes, draped with a dressing that throws together (in part or whole) honey, orange juice, mayonnaise, cider vinegar, and dijon mustard. less egregiously western (though still high on the cultural embarrassment scale) is a rendition i recently had    believe it or not    at california crisp in stonestown mall. here, romaine lettuce was combined with chunks of chicken and tossed with crispy noodle bits, bean sprouts, water chestnuts, and slivered almonds in a tangy sweet vinaigrette. and at the opposite end of the spectrum is ...cold chicken noodle salad. blessedly, the menu simply lists this sublime dish as "cold noodle salad." ...to be fair, other than being chilled, this dish is about as close to an applebee's chinese chicken salad as clam chowder is to bouillabaisse. for one thing, it actually has origins in china, though it's no doubt been dumbed down a bit for american tastes. for another, no actual lettuce is used in the making of this salad. it begins with cold linguine width rice flour noodles, on which are piled hand shredded roast chicken, scallions, and cucumber slivers sprinkled with crushed peanuts. the whole thing is tossed in a dressing    really more of a sauce    that combines sesame oil, peanut butter, chicken broth, ginger, garlic, red chili, and rice vinegar in a wonderfully light and tangy blend that's spicy enough to make you sweat and cold enough to keep you from overheating."    "doing chicken right:how to avoid glorified americanese dressed up as ethnic kweezeen," bonnie wach, sf weekly (california), march 24, 2004 section: dining/food why two names for the same dressing? "vinaigrette...the word, which originated as a diminutive form of french vinaigre (vinegar), was first used in english as long ago as 1699 (john evely mentioned it in his book on salads, acetaria) but it did not really become established until the end of the nineteenth century. french dressing, which originated around 1900, is a widely used synonym in british english. in french, vinaigrette was also applied formerly to a sort of small two wheeled carriage, from a supposed resemblance to a vinegar seller's cart."    a z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 359) "vinaigrette. a cold sauce made from a mixture of vinegar oil, pepper, and salt, to which various flavourings may be added...vinaigrette is used especially for dressing green salads...it is considred to be a typically french sauce and is often called "french dressing" in britain. it was a french emigre, chevalier d'albingac, who started the fashion in london high society for salads dressed in ths way."    larousse gastronomique, jenifer harvey lang [crown:new york] 1988 (p. 1137) a buffet of "french" dressings through time: [1475] "on seasoned lettuce... they say the divine augustus was preserved in a time of ill health by the use of lettuce, and no wonder, because it aids digestion and generates better blood than other vegetables. it is eaten cooked or raw. you season raw lettuce this way if it does not need washing...put it in a dish, sprinkle with ground salt, pour in a little oil and more vinegar and eat at once. some add a little mint and parsley to it for seasoning so that it does not seem entirely bland..."    platina: on right pleasure and good health, [italian:1475, original text in latin], translated by mary ellen milham [medieval & renaissance texts & studies:tempe] 1998 (p. 213) [1669] aceteria john evelyn [england] (recipe on left) [1849] "to dress lettuce as salad... put the yolks of the eggs on a large plate, and with a wooden spoon mash them smooth, mixing with them a table spoonful of water, and two table spoonfuls of sweet oil. the add, by degrees, a salt spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of mustard, and a tea spoonful of powdered loaf sugar. when these are all smoothly untied, add very gradually three table spoonfuls of vinegar. the lettuce having been cut up fine on another plate, put it to the dressing, and mix it well."    directions for cookery in its various branches, miss [eliza] leslie [carey & hart:philadephia] 1849 (p. 203) [1875?] "sauce a la vinaigrette this is a sauce much used in paris for cold viands. sauce a la vinaigrette is composed of salad oil, vinegar, finely chopped parsley, and shallots, onions, or chives, with pepper and salt to taste. for those who have no objection to oil this sauce is infinitely superior to mere vinegar, pepper, and salt. it is suitable for every kind of cold meat, and especially for cold calf's head; and is admirable with cold salmon, turbot, or indeed any sort of cold fish."    cassell's dictionary of cookery with numerous illustrations [cassell, petter, galpin:london] 1875? (p. 1091) [1884] "french dressing" boston cooking school cook book, mrs. d.a. lincoln [1928] "french dressings french dressing bases french dressing base no. 1, (lemon color). original french dressing: one fourth teaspoon salt, one fift teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, one tablespoon pure vinegar, four tablespoons pure olive oil. french dressing base no. 2, (pink color). one fourth teaspoon salt, one fifth teaspoon paprika, one third teaspoon sugar, one tablespoon pure vinegar, four tablespoons pure olive oil. french dressing base no. 3, (pink color). one fourth teaspoon salt, one fifth teaspoon paprika, one third teaspoon salt, one fifth teaspoon paprika, one third teaspoon sugar, one tablespoon lemon juice, four tablespoons pure olive oil. "french dressing base no. 4, (orange color). obesity: one fourth teaspoon salt, one fifth teaspoon paprika, one tablespoon lemon juice, three tablespoons mineral oil. mix salt, pepper and vinegar together, then whip in oil. in whipping all ingredients together (excepting oil) at start and then whipping in oil you get a thicker, better blended sauce. french dressing base no. 5. for all dressings where cream is used as part of garnish. one fifth teaspoon mustard (dry), one fifth teaspoon paprika, one fourth teaspoon salt, one half teaspoon tomato catsup, one fourth teaspoon sugar, one tablespoon vinegar, five tablespoons olive oil. mix thoroughly the mustard, paprika, salt, catsup, sugar and vinegar together, then whip in oil. this gives you a sauce that will stand up, and to which you can add cream, mayonnaise, or other sauces without fear of separating. whip this sauce thoroughly to emulsify."    edgewater beach salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:chicago il] 1928 (p. 243) [1949] "brown derby old fashioned french dressing, 1 1/2 qts. this is the french dressing which became so popular among the stars that the brown derby was prevailed upon to bottle it for home use. the cup of water is optional, depending upon the degree of oiliness desired in this dressing. 1 cup water 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 tsp. sugar juice of 1/2 lemon 2 1/2 tbs. salt 1 tbs. ground black pepper 1 tbs. worcestershire sauce 1 tsp. english mustard 1 bead garlic, chopped 1 cup olive oil 2 cups salad oil blend together all ingredients except oils. the add olive and salad oils and mix well again. chill. shake before serving. this dressing keeps well in the refrigerator. can be made and stored in a 2 qt. mason jar."    brown derby cook book, robert h. cobb [doubleday and company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 68 69) [1972] "sauce vinaigrette (french dressing for green salads and salad combinations) for about 1/2 cup, enough for salad for 6 1 to 2 tb excellent wine vinegar, or combination of vinegar and lemon juice 1/8 tsp salt 1/4 tsp dry mustard 6 to 8 tb best quality oilive oil or salad oil, or a combination of both big oinch of freshly ground pepper optional: 1/2 tb minced shallots or scallions and/or 1/4 tsp dried herbs, such as tarragon or basil either beat the vinegar, salt, and mustard in a bowl until dissolved, then beat in the oil and season with the pepper and herbs, or place all ingredients in a screw top jar and shake vigorously for 30 seconds to blend thoroughly. taste carefully for seasoning."    french chef cookbook, julia child, seventeenth show [alfred a. knopf:new york] 1972,(p. 14 15) [1949] "brown derby old fashioned french dressing, 1 1/2 qts. this is the french dressing which became so popular among the stars that the brown derby was prevailed upon to bottle it for home use. the cup of water is optional, depending upon the degree of oiliness desired in this dressing. 1 cup water 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 tsp. sugar juice of 1/2 lemon 2 1/2 tbs. salt 1 tbs. ground black pepper 1 tbs. worcestershire sauce 1 tsp. english mustard 1 bead garlic, chopped 1 cup olive oil 2 cups salad oil blend together all ingredients except oils. the add olive and salad oils and mix well again. chill. shake before serving. this dressing keeps well in the refrigerator. can be made and stored in a 2 qt. mason jar."    brown derby cook book, robert h. cobb [doubleday and company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 68 69) [1972] "sauce vinaigrette (french dressing for green salads and salad combinations) for about 1/2 cup, enough for salad for 6 1 to 2 tb excellent wine vinegar, or combination of vinegar and lemon juice 1/8 tsp salt 1/4 tsp dry mustard 6 to 8 tb best quality oilive oil or salad oil, or a combination of both big oinch of freshly ground pepper optional: 1/2 tb minced shallots or scallions and/or 1/4 tsp dried herbs, such as tarragon or basil either beat the vinegar, salt, and mustard in a bowl until dissolved, then beat in the oil and season with the pepper and herbs, or place all ingredients in a screw top jar and shake vigorously for 30 seconds to blend thoroughly. taste carefully for seasoning."    french chef cookbook, julia child, seventeenth show [alfred a. knopf:new york] 1972,(p. 14 15) [1972] "sauce vinaigrette (french dressing for green salads and salad combinations) for about 1/2 cup, enough for salad for 6 1 to 2 tb excellent wine vinegar, or combination of vinegar and lemon juice 1/8 tsp salt 1/4 tsp dry mustard 6 to 8 tb best quality oilive oil or salad oil, or a combination of both big oinch of freshly ground pepper optional: 1/2 tb minced shallots or scallions and/or 1/4 tsp dried herbs, such as tarragon or basil either beat the vinegar, salt, and mustard in a bowl until dissolved, then beat in the oil and season with the pepper and herbs, or place all ingredients in a screw top jar and shake vigorously for 30 seconds to blend thoroughly. taste carefully for seasoning."    french chef cookbook, julia child, seventeenth show [alfred a. knopf:new york] 1972,(p. 14 15) we boomers remember the tangy sweet flavor of this creamy brilliant orange dressing. for many of us, it was the only dressing we liked. growing up, oil & vinegar dressings were called "italian." vinaigrette is a pleasant revelation to us. "like salads, salad dressings metamorphised this century. there were new additions: green goddess, thousand island, russian, roquefort, ranch. but the bottling of dressings had greater impact. hellmann's creamy "deli style" mayonnaise went into the jar in 1915  a landmark...kraft played a pivotal role early on, too, with a slim but select repetoire of bottled dressings including the ever popular miracle whip and coral colored french dressing. busy cooks loved these "convenience" dressings. in fact many considered them superior to anything they themselves could make....family french dressing...this is the dressing most of us grew up on. and until julia child taught us how to make vinaigrette in the 1960s, it was the one we ladled over wedges of iceberg or tossed with mixed greens."    american century cook book: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 296) [1928] french dressings, edgewater beach hotel salad book/shircliffe [1930] ketchup dressing to foundation recipe (see above) add 1/4 cupful heinz tomato ketchup and mix thoroughly."    heinz book of salads, [h.j. heinz co., pittsburgh] 1930 (p. 11) [1939] "de luxe french dressing 3 tablespoons sugar 4 tablespoons ketchup 2 tablespoons vinegar or lemon juice 1 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 1/2 teaspoon salt 3/4 cup oil 1 clove garlic (peeled and sliced in two) method: 1. place ingredients in order given in a pint jar; shake thoroughly or beat with spoon until consistency of maple syrup. 2. keep in cooler and shake or beat well before using. makes 1 1/2 cups dressing."    prudence penny's cook book, prudence penny, [prentice hall:new york] 1939 (p. 208) cobb salad cobb salad, as we know it today, was introduced by bob cobb, owner of the brown derby restauarant in los angeles california sometime in the late 1920s. an amalgam of interesting greens, meat, cheese, and eggs, this dish descends from 17th century salmagundi. 1940s chef's salad may have been inspired by the cobb. "during the first four years the original little hat derby added only two items to its menu  a salad and a cake. the salad was almost an accident. bob cobb, growing weary of the steady hot dog hamburger diet, found an avocado in the icebox. he chopped it up, along with some lettuce, celery, and tomatoes, plus a strip of bacon and some salad dresing, and had that for his dinner. several days later he tried it agian, adding other ingredients which he had purchased on his way to work: breast of chicken, chives, hard boiled egg, watercress, and a wedge of roquefort cheese for the dressing. and that's how the cobb salad was born. today, the cobb salad, though many restaurants serve it under other names, is a national favorite."    brown derby cookbook, forward by robert h. cobb and introduction by marjorie child husted [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 6) [note: according to this source, the first brown derby restaurant opened february 1926. this timelines the genesis of cobb salad between the years 1926 & 1930.] "brown derby old fashioned french dressing, 1 1/2 qts. this french dressing whcih became so popular among the stars that the brown derby was prevailed upon to bottle it for home use. the cup of water is optional, depending upon the degree of oiliness desired in the dressing. 1 cup water 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 tsp. sugar juice of 1/2 lemon 2 1/2 tbs. salt 1 tbs. ground black pepper 1 tbs. worcestershire sauce 1 tsp. english mustard 1 bead garlic, chopped 1 cup olive oil 2 cups salad oil blend together all ingredients except oils. the add olive and salad oils and mix well again. chill. shake before serving. this dressing keeps well in the refrigerator. can be made and stored in 2 qt. mason jar." (p. 68 69)    brown derby cookbook, forward by robert h. cobb and introduction by marjorie child husted [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 cole slaw we know from apicius that ancient roman cooks prepared shredded cabbage dressed with vinegar, eggs and spices. food historians generally agree the term "cole slaw" is of dutch origin, implying perhaps that the true progenitor of modern coleslaw is most likely a medieval creation with roman roots. mayonnaise is an 18th century invention, meaning the recipe (as we know it today) is only about 200 years old. the origin of the term "cole slaw' holds much interest for food historians. notes here: "coleslaw means literally 'cabbage salad'. english borrowed and adapted the word from dutch koolsla at the end of the eighteenth century, probably from dutch settlers in the usa, and the first printed example of it shows its outlandishness tamed to cold slaw  a folk etymological modification often repeated in later years. english does however have its own equivalent to dutch kool, 'cabbage', namely cole. like kool, this comes ultimately from latin caulis, 'cabbage', whose underlying etymological meaning is hollow stem'."    an a to z or food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 85) about cole slaw in america "coleslaw. also, "cabbage salad," shredded cabbage, mayonnaise, and seasonings, usually served cold as a side dish. the words are from dutch koolsla, a combination of kool, "cabbage," and sla, "salad" a dish that was known in america in print by 1785. because it is usually served cold, some call the dish "cold slaw" in contrast to "hot slaw," but there is no relation to the temperature in the etymology."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 92) "the earliest european settlers on north america's eastern shores brought cabbage seeds with them, and cabbage was a general favorite throughout the colonies. the dutch who founded new netherland (new york state)...grew cabbage extensively along the hudson river. they served it in their old country ways, often as koolsla (shredded cabbage salad). this dish became popular throughout the colonies and survives as coleslaw...by the 1880s, cabbage and its cousins had fallen from favor with the upper class because of the strong sulfurous odors these vegetables give off when cooking...but this sturdy and versatile vegetable never disappeared from middle class kitchens."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 1 (p. 147) "cool sla, cabbage salad, has, of course become cole slaw; in the nineteenth cnetury housewives who had forgotten, or never known, that cool is dutch fo "cabbage," were already miscalling the dish "cold slaw," which gave illegitimate birth to "warm slaw.""    eating in america: a history, waverley rood & richard de rochemont [william morrow and company:new york] 1976 (p. 302 3) peter g. rose, new netherlands foodways historian, states peter kalm mentions coleslaw in his travels in north america; the english version of 1770 (p. 347): "...he describes how his dutch landlady served him "an unusual salad," which "tastes better than one can imagine...cabbage... cut in long thin strips" dressed with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, well mixed to evenly distribute the oil." soruce: the sensible cook: dutch foodways in the old and new world [syracuse university press:syracuse ny] 1989 (p. 28). her modernized version of this 18th century salad (based on mr. kalm's description) here: "cabbage salad. 2 cups green cabbage, cut into thin strips 2 cups red cabbage, cut into thin strips 1/3 cup wine vinegar 1/4 cup vegetable oil or 1/4 cup melted butter salt and freshly ground pepper mix the above ingredients well ahead of dinner time so that the flavors can marry."    ibid (p. 116) coleslaw, 1839 cold slaugh. select firm, fragile heads of cabbage, (no other sort being for for slaugh); having stripped off the outer leaves, cleave the top part of the head into four equal parts, leaving the lower part whole, so that they many note be separated till shaved or cut fine from the stalk. take a very sharp knife, shave off the cabbage roundwise, cutting it very smoothly and evenly, and at no rate more than a quarter of an inch in width. put the shavings or slaugh in a deep china dish, pile it high, and make it smooth; mix with enough good vinegar to nearly fill the dish, a suffient quantity of salt and pepper to season the slaugh; add a spoonful of whole white mustard seeds, and pour it over the slaugh, garnish it round on the edge of the dish with pickled eggs, cut in ringlets. never put butter on cabbage that is to be eaten cold, as it is by no means pleasant to the taste or sight." "warm slaugh. cut them as for cold slaugh; having put in a skippet enough butter, salt, pepper, and vinegar to season the slaugh very well, put it into the seasonings; stir it fast, that it all may warm equally, and as soon as it gets hot, serve it in a deep china dish; make it smooth, and disseminate over it hard boiled yolks of eggs, that are minced fine."    kentucky housewife, lettice bryan, facsimile reprint 1839 edition stereotyped by shepard & stearns:cincinnati [image graphics:paducah ky] (p. 192 3) additional 19th century american recipes, search recipe name: slaw (retrieves cold slaw, cole slaw, hot slaw, etc.) the origin of the term "cole slaw' holds much interest for food historians. notes here: "coleslaw means literally 'cabbage salad'. english borrowed and adapted the word from dutch koolsla at the end of the eighteenth century, probably from dutch settlers in the usa, and the first printed example of it shows its outlandishness tamed to cold slaw  a folk etymological modification often repeated in later years. english does however have its own equivalent to dutch kool, 'cabbage', namely cole. like kool, this comes ultimately from latin caulis, 'cabbage', whose underlying etymological meaning is hollow stem'."    an a to z or food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 85) about cole slaw in america "coleslaw. also, "cabbage salad," shredded cabbage, mayonnaise, and seasonings, usually served cold as a side dish. the words are from dutch koolsla, a combination of kool, "cabbage," and sla, "salad" a dish that was known in america in print by 1785. because it is usually served cold, some call the dish "cold slaw" in contrast to "hot slaw," but there is no relation to the temperature in the etymology."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 92) "the earliest european settlers on north america's eastern shores brought cabbage seeds with them, and cabbage was a general favorite throughout the colonies. the dutch who founded new netherland (new york state)...grew cabbage extensively along the hudson river. they served it in their old country ways, often as koolsla (shredded cabbage salad). this dish became popular throughout the colonies and survives as coleslaw...by the 1880s, cabbage and its cousins had fallen from favor with the upper class because of the strong sulfurous odors these vegetables give off when cooking...but this sturdy and versatile vegetable never disappeared from middle class kitchens."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 1 (p. 147) "cool sla, cabbage salad, has, of course become cole slaw; in the nineteenth cnetury housewives who had forgotten, or never known, that cool is dutch fo "cabbage," were already miscalling the dish "cold slaw," which gave illegitimate birth to "warm slaw.""    eating in america: a history, waverley rood & richard de rochemont [william morrow and company:new york] 1976 (p. 302 3) peter g. rose, new netherlands foodways historian, states peter kalm mentions coleslaw in his travels in north america; the english version of 1770 (p. 347): "...he describes how his dutch landlady served him "an unusual salad," which "tastes better than one can imagine...cabbage... cut in long thin strips" dressed with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, well mixed to evenly distribute the oil." soruce: the sensible cook: dutch foodways in the old and new world [syracuse university press:syracuse ny] 1989 (p. 28). her modernized version of this 18th century salad (based on mr. kalm's description) here: coleslaw, 1839 "warm slaugh. cut them as for cold slaugh; having put in a skippet enough butter, salt, pepper, and vinegar to season the slaugh very well, put it into the seasonings; stir it fast, that it all may warm equally, and as soon as it gets hot, serve it in a deep china dish; make it smooth, and disseminate over it hard boiled yolks of eggs, that are minced fine."    kentucky housewife, lettice bryan, facsimile reprint 1839 edition stereotyped by shepard & stearns:cincinnati [image graphics:paducah ky] (p. 192 3) about cabbage about mayonnaise (and its ancient egg, vinegar & spice precursors) if you want to learn more about cabbage we recommend: crudites raw vegetables in various forms appear in appetizer sections of american cookbooks of the 19th century. these were often stuffed (celery with cream cheese) or presented as garnish (radish florets). a survey of primary sources reveals raw vegetable platters with dip began showing up in the 1940s. at that time they were not called crudites. our survey of cookbooks, magazines and newspapers articles confirms the use of the term "crudite" in american print at least to the 1960s. these vegetable platters were promoted by women's magazines (easy & portable), gourmet journals (creative and colorful), restaurants (inexpensive & easily assembled), and health professionals (raw vegetables are excellent for fighting cancer and other diseases). what exactly are crudites (pronounced croo dee tay)? "crudites. raw vegetables or fruits served as an hors d'oeuvre, generally thinly sliced, grated or cut into little sticks and accompanied by cold sauces. crudites include carrots, celeriac, cucumber, sweet peppers, red cabbage, celery, fennel, fresh broad (fava) beans, cauliflower (in very small florets), tomatoes, mushrooms, radishes, small artichokes, quarters of grapefruit, orange and apple, round slices of banana sprinkled with lemon, slices of avocado and, although it is cooked, beetroot (red beet). the various items are often presented as an assortment, with several sauces. a plate of crudites may also include a hard boiled (hard cooked) egg in mayonnaise."    larousse gastronomique, complete revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 381) [note: the original 1938 french edition of larousse gastronomique also contains an entry for crudites. there is no entry in the classic 1961 edition.] "in french, crudite literally means 'rawness'. hence its application, in the plural, to an hors d'oeuvre dish or small pieces of raw vegetable, such as celery, cucumber, carrot, peppers, or cauliflower, served with a dip of mayonnaise or similar cold sauces. its introduction into english is comparatively recent."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 99) sample recipes [1942] "raw vegetable hors d'oeuvres among the simplest and most popular hors d'oeuvres are pieces of raw vegetable such as small cauliflower flowerets, carrot strips or curls, cucumber fingers or wedges, strips of green pepper, celery curls and hearts, endive and tomato wedges. these are served without toothpicks. keep in ice water until ready to serve; drain thoroughly. if desired, serve with a sauce (see cold dunking trays, p. 266). provide salt for those who may prefer to eat the vegetables without sauce."    woman's home companion cook book, willa roberts [p.f. collier & son:new york] 1942 (p. 268) [1949] "raw vegetables. several plates of raw vegetables or a plate of various mixed raw vegetables is acceptable in the melange of things served for hors d'oeuvres. they should be the choices the market affords and should be carefully cleaned and crisped in ice water before serving. radishes: the tiny rosy ones as fresh and crisp as you can find them. if the tops are fresh and green, leave them on for eye appeal. onions: tiny green onions, carefully cleaned and freshened in water. always a pleasant addition. celery. celery hearts, strips of celery, or stuffed celery (using any of the canape spreads) are good addition. fennel: the anise flavored italian root is a change. pepper: strips or rings of green pepper. carrot: strips of tender raw carrot. watercress: watercress is a decorative addition as well as a delicious tidbit. tomatoes: sliced tomatoes, plain or with french dressing. stuffed eggs: any of the recipes for stuffed eggs are acceptable for this type of service. or you may serve: eggs a la russe. cut peeled hard cooked eggs in half. place them in a serving dish, yolk side down, and cover with russian dressing. decorate with capers."    the fireside cook book, james a. beard [simon & schuster:new york] 1949 (p. 35) [1965] "crudites. prepare a mayonnaise and add to it 1 tablespoon dijon mustard, a dash of tobasco, and 3 tablespoons chopped parsley. blend well. serve as a sauce for the crudites. arrange a selection of raw vegetables as attractively as possible on individual plates or on one large platter. you might combine cherry tomatoes, scallions, radishes, celery and asparagus. these may be eaten with the fingers. if you choose vegetables such as carrots, or celeriac, which can be cut in julienne strips or shredded, a fork is in order. one three star restaurant in france serves a 'bouquet of crudites' as a first course in which the vegetables are cut very fine and each is served in a different sauce. it is the most appetizing dish imaginable."    james beard's menus for entertaining, james beard [dell trade paperback:new york] 1965 (p. 145) [note: mr. beard's mayonnaise recipe appears on p. 346. happy to send if you need.] [1966] "crudites (raw vegetables)...pack a variety of raw vegetable tidbits in each of 4 plastic sandwich bags. these might include raw cauilflowerettes, celery hearts, radishes, young raw green asparagus."    "the fast gourmet," poppy cannon, chicago daily defender, may 24, 1966 (p. 19) [1972] "crudites. for party goers or party givers who want taste without waist, these raw crisp vegetables, called crudites in france, could be a favorite hors d'oeuvre. prepare them an hour or more before use and refrigerate until party time. provide individual platters for all with...vegetables weighed in advance...[suggested vegetables, with instructions for preparation:] beans (green or wax), bean sprouts, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, celery, celeriac (celery root), chinese cabbage, chinese snow peas, cucumbers, fennel, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mushrooms, parsley, pimentos, spinach, radishes, scallions, squash (summer), tomatoes, watercress...suggested dips for individual servings: pimiento dressing, tangy french dressing, mock hollandaise sauce (recipes included, happy to send.)    weight watchers program cookbook, jean nidetch [hearthside press:great neck ny] 1972 (p. 253 254) [note: this recipe includes weight watcher "counting" points.] [1995] "crudites is the kind of dish that's easy to take for granted. there's nothing big deal about crisp and colorful vegetables arranged around a ramekin of tangy dip. or is there? "it's been on our menu for 16 years," says david evans, co owner of the great lost bear, a popular local eatery in portland, maine, where checks average about $15. "we could never take it off." that menu at the bear is certainly big  about 120 items  and written with an eye for humor. the crudites with curry dip  which fetches $3.95 and accounts for more than 1% of the meal mix  is labeled "some like it raw," followed by a brief description. the bear's version of crudites is simple. the featured vegetables include celery, carrots, zucchini, mushrooms, bell peppers, cauliflower and broccoli, chosen because they are all readily available, consistently priced and don't need any cooking. if par cooking is not an issue, then potatoes and string beans can be added to the list of vegetable choices. of course, any of the raw vegetables could be blanched or steamed slightly, just be sure not to overcook, and to shock them immediately in ice water. some more unusual or seasonal vegetables also make excellent crudites: snap peas, fennel, assorted radishes, jicama, cherry tomatoes, olives, asparagus, watercress sprigs, cooked artichokes or even boiled broad beans. and don't stop with vegetables. fruit crudites  with a sweetened yogurt, creme fraiche or sour cream dip  makes a festive breakfast or brunch item. how you cut, hold and present these products will determine how appealing the dish is to customers. because the vegetables for "some like it raw" at the great lost bear are all used in other menu items, no special prep is involved and there is virtually no waste. according to evans, everything is cut into convenient large slices except for the mushrooms, which are halved, and the trimmed broccoli and cauliflower florets. evans' cooks do all the prep this crudites presentation with piquant bagna cauda dip features both raw and par boiled vegetables ahead of time, and store the vegetables in water in the refrigerator. for service, chosen pieces are blotted and strewn on a big plate. the curry dipping sauce that accompanies the bear's crudites has not changed in the last 16 years. it's a simple blend based on a combination of mayonnaise and sour cream. the dip has become their signature. vinaigrettes also make sprightly dips, especially if flavored vinegars or oils are used  although one that is completely emulsified and will not separate is both better tasting and better looking. bean, legume, or vegetable purees provide reduced fat alternatives with flavor and body. consider offering customers a choice of different dips. there's also a resurging popularity in the close cousin of crudites  fondue  where a warm cheese sauce provides the centerpiece for a presentation that can include raw and/or par cooked vegetables and bread cubes. another hot dip for cool crudites is bagna cauda, a rustic, anchovy and garlic flavored dipping sauce whose name translates as "warm bath" in italian."    "a way with crudites," kerri conan, restaurant business, june 10, 1995 (p. 98) fruit salad when did fruit salad originate? the answer depends upon how define the dish. fruit salads (ie combinations of various fresh, dried, candied [with sugar], stewed and/or fruits with vegetables) since ancient times. the ingredients and recipes depended upon what was available (country, seasons) and socio cultural attitudes toward the ingredients (was raw fruit considered healthy or not?). fruit salad, as we know it today [a variety of fresh, often tropical, fruits], surfaces in the mid 19th century. ambrosia is popular variation featuring coconut. culinary evidence confirms sometimes fruit salad was mixed with sugar and alcohol, thus the term "fruit cocktail." non alcoholic versions of this recipe were concocted during prohibition. also popular in the 1920s were jellied fruit salads. think: jell o molds. during world war ii fruit salads were promoted to ensure proper amount of vitamin c were included in the american diet. both canned and fresh fruits were recommended. fruit salads in northern europe (germany, for example) evolved differently. these recipes used mayonnaise. "fruit salad, an item which has adorned millions of menus in the western world, was first recognized as a dish in the mid 19th century....it is of course possible to have a 'salad' of dried fruits and nuts, as in the middle eastern khoshab; and, further east, indonesia offers the spicy fruit salad rujak, which is patently different from anything in the western world."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 323) a sampler of american fruit salad recipes: [1863] "apricots, oranges, peaches, pears, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, currants, and like berries in salad. dust the bottom of a dish with white sugar, put a layer of slices of apricots, oranges, peaches, or pears, or a layer of the others entire, and dust again; repeat the same till the whole is in, then add over the whole a pinch of grated nutmeg, and french brandy or rum to suit your taste, and serve."    what to cook and how to eat it, peirre blot [new york:1863] (p. 202) [1896] fannie farmer's recipes [1913] "fruit salad. equal quantities of grape fruit or oranges, apples and celery. peel the grape fruit or oranges, carefully removing all the bitter white skin; cut the pulp with bananas and apples into small dice, and cut the celery fine as for other salads; put the orange and apple together; the latter will absorb the juice of the orange. set all on ice  these fruit salads must be ice cold. when it is time to serve mix the fruit and celery together, put into a salad bowl, cover with cream dressing into which has been stirred a third as much cream as there is dressing, and add a little more salt to it in mixing. serve in a bed of tender lettuce leaves."    the american home cook book, grace e. denison [barse & hopkins:new york] 1913 (p. 378) [1923] "chop suey fruit salad. (six portions) (dainty for afternoon party refreshments.) on cup chopped figs 1 half cup chopped dates one half cup chopped prunes one half cup raisins two tablespoons lemon juice one half cup filberts one half cup diced pineapple one cup delicious cream salad dressing one half cup whipped cream mix the salad dressing and whipped ream and combine with the rest of the ingredients. serve daintily on lettuce leaves."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923 (p. 51) [note: this book offers several fruit salads, each with a brief headnote suggesting meal/course placement.] [1926] "salads in which fruits form a prominent part are becoming very popular. they are often served as a first course at lunchoens or in place of a course of fruit at dessert. for a first course they should be rather acid or made with fruit acid in nature, while later during a meal they are more enjoyed if sweetened and more highly flavored. as a rulee they are most attractive looking compounds often highly fragrant and appeal to all of our senses. almost any kind of acid fruit is nice to serve in this way. for eating with meats of birds the ordinary french dressing, omitting the onion, is good. for dessert, or at one of our american 'teas,' cold sweet fruit mixtures are preferred. neufchatel cheese is enjoyed with them at a late breakfast or luncheon. the fruit salads may be put into an ice cream freezer and cooled with the usual mixture of salt and ice. when handsome glass or porcelain dishes, with silver ones to place them in, are not available a pretty way to serve fruit salads is in dainty glasses. peaches, fresh figs and the many varieties of berries have always been popular with sugar and cream but, for variety, try one of the following methods which may be considerably varied by changing the fruits and proportions as the supplies change or the taste varies. "mixed fruit salad. fill delixated cuos or glasses with fresh pine apple, bananas and white grapes, cut, halved and seeded, the pulp and juice of oranges and candied cherries, all the fruit to be cut rather fine. cover them with a dressing made with four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, one gill of sherry, one tablespoonful maraschino and two of champagne. stir until the sugar is dissolved and then pour over the fruit and let the classes stand in a cold refrigerator an hour before serving. another dressing is made with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon mixed with two tablespoonfuls of sherry and the same of maderia [sic]. some people delight in a mixture of acid fruit, currants, raspberries, morello cherries, strawberries etc., with candied fruit cut into small strips, angelica, citron, cherries, oranges and all the many kinds that are now prepared. give a dressing of sugar and wine."    american salad book, maximillian de loup [doubleday, page & co.:garden ccity ny] 1926, forut edition, revised (p. 106 107) [note: this book offers recipes for fruit salad with jelly, french fruit salad, grape fruit and lettuce, grape fruit with mayonnaise, cherry salad, pear salad, acid pear salad, alligator pear salad, mexican alligator pear salad, prickly pear salad, orange salad (8 recipes), green apple salad, apple salad, apple and walnut salad, apple and celery salad, raspberry salad, strawberry salad, quince salad, currant salad, fig salad, mulberry salad, pineapple salad, melon salad, fruit salad (with mayonnaise dressing).] [1944] "plenty of fruit is a daily must in meals, so don't overlook fruit salad as an appetizer, main dish, salad course, or dessert, in keeping up your family's fruit and vitamin quota. of course, oranges and grapefruit, lemons, tangerines, and strawberries are especially good vitamin c sources. but bananas, apples, canned pineapple, peaches, and pears, prunes, apricots  in fact, all fresh, canned, and dried fruits  lend a helping hand, too."    good housekeeping cook book, new edition, completely revised [farrar & rinehart:new york] 1944 (p. 564) [note: this book contains recipes for apple and cottage cheese salad, banana and pineapple surprise salad, frozen ginger ale salad, frozen pear and cream cheese salad, frozen pineapple and cheese salad, frozen pistachio cheese salad, fruit salad plate, jellied fruit dessert salad, jellied grape salad, jellied grapefruit and lime salad, jellied strawberry cheese dessert salad, and several [fresh] fruit salad bowls.] what is fruit cocktail? fruit cocktail, a sweetened mix of assorted diced fruits served in a decorative stemmed glass, is generally presented in the appetizer course. unlike its culinary cousins ambrosia (dessert) and fruit salad (salad), it was also commercialized. early recipes are variously monikered "fruit cup" or "fruit cocktail." the crossover was sorely noted by domestic scientists. coincidentally? this period marked the crossover between several late 19th health foods (most notably breakfast cereal & peanut butter)and sweet commercial profits. [1901] "we have fallen so much into the fashion of practicing a 'course luncheon with what are sometimes called 'fruit cocktails' that we have almost lost sight of the value of the fruit cup as a final course of sweets at dinner or luncheon. our english cousins apply the name 'dessert' to fruits alone. we give it, indiscriminently, to puddings, pies, ices, jellies, custards and fruits whatver may be the name or nature of the dishes following the main business of the dinner. in bringing our present subject to the front, we harmonize wth the nomenclature of both nations. our fruit cup is especially convenient to the sagacious housemother, now that the changing seasons invite latitude and indifference to foods that have been partaken of freely all winter. the full maturity of the berry is not yet here..."    "school for housewives," marion harland, los angeles times, may 15, 1910 (p. viii6) "in these latter days many american cooks make a mixture of fruit, sugar and alcohol, and serve them as "salad." these are not salads; are heavy, rather unwholesome, and will never take the place of a salad. i much prefer to call them fruit cocktails, and serve them as first course at at luncheon or a twelve o'clock breakfast; or a dessert, and serve them with the ices at the close of the meal. fruits mixed with mayonnaise dressing, and served as a salad are unsightly, unpalatable and little nauseating. one cannot think of anything more out of keeping than white grapes in a thick mayonnaise. the simple so called french dressing is delicate and most worthy of recommendation. over lettuce, cress or celery it certainly makes a palatable and wholesome dinner salad, and one in which children can be freely indulged. such fruits as apples, pears, cherries, and pineapples, mixed with celery or lettuce, with french dressing, make an agreeable dinner salad."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 439) [1911] "menu for independence day fruit cocktail, olives, radishes, lobster bisque, crown roast of lamb, mint sauce, carrots, peas, latticed potatoes, artichoke or tomato jelly salad and cheese straws, cherry pie or strawberry ice cream with martha washington cake, demi tasse, fruit punch."    "uncle walt," los angeles times, june 30, 1911 (p. ii4) [1924] "fruit cocktail for the fruit cocktail mix in a cold bowl equal parts of peeled and diced honey dew melon, peeled and diced oranges, peeled and diced firm ripe peaches, peeled and diced apricots, pitted cherries, and diced pineapple. set in ice box for three hours before serving. divide into tall stem glasses and top each glass with a large strawberry dipped in powdered sugar."    "pracitcal recipes," los angeles times, a.l. wyman, december 8, 1924 (p. a8) "1913...fruit cocktail is created by a california canner."(p. 79) "1927...fruit canners agree upon a single "recipe" for fruit cocktail." (p. 161)    american century cookbook, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 related food? ambrosia! iceberg wedge (aka heart of lettuce) period cookbooks, old newspapers, and culinary reference books confirm the popularity of iceberg (also known as crisphead) lettuce in the 1920s. they do not, however, reveal claimants (hotels, chefs, restaurants) to the invention of the classic american wedge type salad served with creamy dressing. the general concensus of current sources squarely places this salad as a ubiquitous menu entry of the 1950s and 1960s. the lettuce wedge lost its place in the 1970s when consumers were intrigued by more interesting salads. recently, the iceberg wedge salad has resurfaced as a "reinvented" item on trendy menus. the new accompaniments are blue cheese (maytag, esp.) and nuts. what was iceberg lettuce? about iceberg wedge salad "there once was a time  before the arrival of mesclun, frisee, endive, spring mix, packaged salads, radicchio and arugula  when iceberg lettuce dominated the produce aisle. quartered, shredded, its leaves pulled off and transformed into cups for canned pears, it knew no rival until the 1970s when caesar chavez called for a boycott to protest the working conditions of california lettuce pickers. tastes changed, too. the wedge of iceberg drowning in a thick dressing was replaced with vinaigrette tossed leaf lettuces (especially romaine) and smaller, more exotic "designer" greens, all more nutritional and more flavorful than the "neutral" iceberg. iceberg  a head lettuce, as opposed to a leaf lettuce  is also known as "crisphead" lettuce since one of its chief virtues (some say its only virtue) is that it stays fresher longer than leaf lettuces."    "market watch 6/23: iceberg lettuce," jeanne mcmanus, the washington post, june 23, 1999, pg. f04 "take one wedge of iceberg lettuce. open a bottle of dressing and pour. garnish with a tomato slice. you've got salad, 1960s style."    "salads with sizzle; how do you dress up a salad into a meal? chefs offer their suggestions," leslie kelly, spokesman review (spokane, wa), june 18, 1997 (p. d1) "short of heating up a tv dinner, there are few more blatantly retro gestures than ordering a wedge of iceberg lettuce covered in a thick, creamy salad dressing. the lettuce itself remains popular in the united states. it still accounts for 70 percent of the lettuce raised in california, but that share is declining (in the mid 1970's it was as high as 80 percent), and anyone dining at fancier restaurants around the united states might wonder if it hadn't disappeared entirely, displaced by frisee, dandelion greens, oak leaf, lollo rosso, exotic cresses, microgreens, sprouts    anything, in short, that's green, has a leaf, and is not iceberg. but iceberg somehow manages to hang on. steakhouses refuse to give it up. and in some very unlikely places, it has earned a strange kind of cachet..."it's one of those things that's synonymous with growing up in america," mr. otsuka said. "everybody has a comfort level with it. served cold, it's very nice on the palate, with a good crunch." marc meyer, at five points, anoints a wedge of the stuff with a modernized, europeanized blue cheese dressing made with picon cheese from spain, toasted almond slices and radishes...despite its shortcomings, iceberg has always had its fans. james beard was one. "many people damn it," he once wrote, "but when broken up, not cut, it adds good flavor and a wonderfully crisp texture to a salad with other greens." it also keeps longer than other lettuces, he pointed out. flavor? surely the iceberg stands supreme as the blandest of all greens. little pieces? most americans side with the prim instructions given in the first "joy of cooking." "heads of iceberg lettuce are not separated," the directions read. "they are cut into wedge shaped pieces, or into crosswise slices." the lettuce is a relative newcomer, and confusingly named. a lettuce that went by the name of iceberg was developed in the 1890's, and somehow the name resurfaced when new varieties of durable, easily shippable crisphead lettuce began emerging in california in the mid 1920's. in 1948, the iceberg we know today was born. why iceberg? no one seems to know, although one popular theory holds that the name refers to the tons of ice that chilled it in the days before refrigerated rail cars. the big, cold wedge is a cornerstone of american cuisine. it survives, and so do the sludgelike dressings that drape it like heavy velvet curtains    the great, goopy family that includes blue cheese, green goddess, ranch and thousand island. i went for the wedge the other day at del frisco double eagle steak house. it arrived under a lavalike green ooze, a creamily high caloric green goddess dressing lumpy with tender bits of avocado....michael jordan's the steak house...the wedge wore a blue cheese dressing...john schenk, the chef at clementine, tuned in to this particular frequency years before tony restaurants began playing with iceberg..."    "critic's notebook; an offering to the green goddess," william grimes,the new york times, june 14, 2000, (p. f1) while icberg lettuce was employed for a variety of salads, the "classic" american restaurant wedge topped with a generous dollop of creamy dressing was sometimes called "heart of lettuce." creamy roquefort was the traditional dressing. what exactly are crudites (pronounced croo dee tay)? "crudites. raw vegetables or fruits served as an hors d'oeuvre, generally thinly sliced, grated or cut into little sticks and accompanied by cold sauces. crudites include carrots, celeriac, cucumber, sweet peppers, red cabbage, celery, fennel, fresh broad (fava) beans, cauliflower (in very small florets), tomatoes, mushrooms, radishes, small artichokes, quarters of grapefruit, orange and apple, round slices of banana sprinkled with lemon, slices of avocado and, although it is cooked, beetroot (red beet). the various items are often presented as an assortment, with several sauces. a plate of crudites may also include a hard boiled (hard cooked) egg in mayonnaise."    larousse gastronomique, complete revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 381) [note: the original 1938 french edition of larousse gastronomique also contains an entry for crudites. there is no entry in the classic 1961 edition.] "in french, crudite literally means 'rawness'. hence its application, in the plural, to an hors d'oeuvre dish or small pieces of raw vegetable, such as celery, cucumber, carrot, peppers, or cauliflower, served with a dip of mayonnaise or similar cold sauces. its introduction into english is comparatively recent."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 99) sample recipes [1949] "raw vegetables. several plates of raw vegetables or a plate of various mixed raw vegetables is acceptable in the melange of things served for hors d'oeuvres. they should be the choices the market affords and should be carefully cleaned and crisped in ice water before serving. radishes: the tiny rosy ones as fresh and crisp as you can find them. if the tops are fresh and green, leave them on for eye appeal. onions: tiny green onions, carefully cleaned and freshened in water. always a pleasant addition. celery. celery hearts, strips of celery, or stuffed celery (using any of the canape spreads) are good addition. fennel: the anise flavored italian root is a change. pepper: strips or rings of green pepper. carrot: strips of tender raw carrot. watercress: watercress is a decorative addition as well as a delicious tidbit. tomatoes: sliced tomatoes, plain or with french dressing. stuffed eggs: any of the recipes for stuffed eggs are acceptable for this type of service. or you may serve: eggs a la russe. cut peeled hard cooked eggs in half. place them in a serving dish, yolk side down, and cover with russian dressing. decorate with capers."    the fireside cook book, james a. beard [simon & schuster:new york] 1949 (p. 35) [1965] "crudites. prepare a mayonnaise and add to it 1 tablespoon dijon mustard, a dash of tobasco, and 3 tablespoons chopped parsley. blend well. serve as a sauce for the crudites. arrange a selection of raw vegetables as attractively as possible on individual plates or on one large platter. you might combine cherry tomatoes, scallions, radishes, celery and asparagus. these may be eaten with the fingers. if you choose vegetables such as carrots, or celeriac, which can be cut in julienne strips or shredded, a fork is in order. one three star restaurant in france serves a 'bouquet of crudites' as a first course in which the vegetables are cut very fine and each is served in a different sauce. it is the most appetizing dish imaginable."    james beard's menus for entertaining, james beard [dell trade paperback:new york] 1965 (p. 145) [note: mr. beard's mayonnaise recipe appears on p. 346. happy to send if you need.] [1966] "crudites (raw vegetables)...pack a variety of raw vegetable tidbits in each of 4 plastic sandwich bags. these might include raw cauilflowerettes, celery hearts, radishes, young raw green asparagus."    "the fast gourmet," poppy cannon, chicago daily defender, may 24, 1966 (p. 19) [1972] "crudites. for party goers or party givers who want taste without waist, these raw crisp vegetables, called crudites in france, could be a favorite hors d'oeuvre. prepare them an hour or more before use and refrigerate until party time. provide individual platters for all with...vegetables weighed in advance...[suggested vegetables, with instructions for preparation:] beans (green or wax), bean sprouts, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, celery, celeriac (celery root), chinese cabbage, chinese snow peas, cucumbers, fennel, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mushrooms, parsley, pimentos, spinach, radishes, scallions, squash (summer), tomatoes, watercress...suggested dips for individual servings: pimiento dressing, tangy french dressing, mock hollandaise sauce (recipes included, happy to send.)    weight watchers program cookbook, jean nidetch [hearthside press:great neck ny] 1972 (p. 253 254) [note: this recipe includes weight watcher "counting" points.] [1995] "crudites is the kind of dish that's easy to take for granted. there's nothing big deal about crisp and colorful vegetables arranged around a ramekin of tangy dip. or is there? "it's been on our menu for 16 years," says david evans, co owner of the great lost bear, a popular local eatery in portland, maine, where checks average about $15. "we could never take it off." that menu at the bear is certainly big  about 120 items  and written with an eye for humor. the crudites with curry dip  which fetches $3.95 and accounts for more than 1% of the meal mix  is labeled "some like it raw," followed by a brief description. the bear's version of crudites is simple. the featured vegetables include celery, carrots, zucchini, mushrooms, bell peppers, cauliflower and broccoli, chosen because they are all readily available, consistently priced and don't need any cooking. if par cooking is not an issue, then potatoes and string beans can be added to the list of vegetable choices. of course, any of the raw vegetables could be blanched or steamed slightly, just be sure not to overcook, and to shock them immediately in ice water. some more unusual or seasonal vegetables also make excellent crudites: snap peas, fennel, assorted radishes, jicama, cherry tomatoes, olives, asparagus, watercress sprigs, cooked artichokes or even boiled broad beans. and don't stop with vegetables. fruit crudites  with a sweetened yogurt, creme fraiche or sour cream dip  makes a festive breakfast or brunch item. how you cut, hold and present these products will determine how appealing the dish is to customers. because the vegetables for "some like it raw" at the great lost bear are all used in other menu items, no special prep is involved and there is virtually no waste. according to evans, everything is cut into convenient large slices except for the mushrooms, which are halved, and the trimmed broccoli and cauliflower florets. evans' cooks do all the prep this crudites presentation with piquant bagna cauda dip features both raw and par boiled vegetables ahead of time, and store the vegetables in water in the refrigerator. for service, chosen pieces are blotted and strewn on a big plate. the curry dipping sauce that accompanies the bear's crudites has not changed in the last 16 years. it's a simple blend based on a combination of mayonnaise and sour cream. the dip has become their signature. vinaigrettes also make sprightly dips, especially if flavored vinegars or oils are used  although one that is completely emulsified and will not separate is both better tasting and better looking. bean, legume, or vegetable purees provide reduced fat alternatives with flavor and body. consider offering customers a choice of different dips. there's also a resurging popularity in the close cousin of crudites  fondue  where a warm cheese sauce provides the centerpiece for a presentation that can include raw and/or par cooked vegetables and bread cubes. another hot dip for cool crudites is bagna cauda, a rustic, anchovy and garlic flavored dipping sauce whose name translates as "warm bath" in italian."    "a way with crudites," kerri conan, restaurant business, june 10, 1995 (p. 98) fruit salad when did fruit salad originate? the answer depends upon how define the dish. fruit salads (ie combinations of various fresh, dried, candied [with sugar], stewed and/or fruits with vegetables) since ancient times. the ingredients and recipes depended upon what was available (country, seasons) and socio cultural attitudes toward the ingredients (was raw fruit considered healthy or not?). fruit salad, as we know it today [a variety of fresh, often tropical, fruits], surfaces in the mid 19th century. ambrosia is popular variation featuring coconut. culinary evidence confirms sometimes fruit salad was mixed with sugar and alcohol, thus the term "fruit cocktail." non alcoholic versions of this recipe were concocted during prohibition. also popular in the 1920s were jellied fruit salads. think: jell o molds. during world war ii fruit salads were promoted to ensure proper amount of vitamin c were included in the american diet. both canned and fresh fruits were recommended. fruit salads in northern europe (germany, for example) evolved differently. these recipes used mayonnaise. "fruit salad, an item which has adorned millions of menus in the western world, was first recognized as a dish in the mid 19th century....it is of course possible to have a 'salad' of dried fruits and nuts, as in the middle eastern khoshab; and, further east, indonesia offers the spicy fruit salad rujak, which is patently different from anything in the western world."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 323) a sampler of american fruit salad recipes: [1863] "apricots, oranges, peaches, pears, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, currants, and like berries in salad. dust the bottom of a dish with white sugar, put a layer of slices of apricots, oranges, peaches, or pears, or a layer of the others entire, and dust again; repeat the same till the whole is in, then add over the whole a pinch of grated nutmeg, and french brandy or rum to suit your taste, and serve."    what to cook and how to eat it, peirre blot [new york:1863] (p. 202) [1896] fannie farmer's recipes [1913] "fruit salad. equal quantities of grape fruit or oranges, apples and celery. peel the grape fruit or oranges, carefully removing all the bitter white skin; cut the pulp with bananas and apples into small dice, and cut the celery fine as for other salads; put the orange and apple together; the latter will absorb the juice of the orange. set all on ice  these fruit salads must be ice cold. when it is time to serve mix the fruit and celery together, put into a salad bowl, cover with cream dressing into which has been stirred a third as much cream as there is dressing, and add a little more salt to it in mixing. serve in a bed of tender lettuce leaves."    the american home cook book, grace e. denison [barse & hopkins:new york] 1913 (p. 378) [1923] "chop suey fruit salad. (six portions) (dainty for afternoon party refreshments.) on cup chopped figs 1 half cup chopped dates one half cup chopped prunes one half cup raisins two tablespoons lemon juice one half cup filberts one half cup diced pineapple one cup delicious cream salad dressing one half cup whipped cream mix the salad dressing and whipped ream and combine with the rest of the ingredients. serve daintily on lettuce leaves."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923 (p. 51) [note: this book offers several fruit salads, each with a brief headnote suggesting meal/course placement.] [1926] "salads in which fruits form a prominent part are becoming very popular. they are often served as a first course at lunchoens or in place of a course of fruit at dessert. for a first course they should be rather acid or made with fruit acid in nature, while later during a meal they are more enjoyed if sweetened and more highly flavored. as a rulee they are most attractive looking compounds often highly fragrant and appeal to all of our senses. almost any kind of acid fruit is nice to serve in this way. for eating with meats of birds the ordinary french dressing, omitting the onion, is good. for dessert, or at one of our american 'teas,' cold sweet fruit mixtures are preferred. neufchatel cheese is enjoyed with them at a late breakfast or luncheon. the fruit salads may be put into an ice cream freezer and cooled with the usual mixture of salt and ice. when handsome glass or porcelain dishes, with silver ones to place them in, are not available a pretty way to serve fruit salads is in dainty glasses. peaches, fresh figs and the many varieties of berries have always been popular with sugar and cream but, for variety, try one of the following methods which may be considerably varied by changing the fruits and proportions as the supplies change or the taste varies. "mixed fruit salad. fill delixated cuos or glasses with fresh pine apple, bananas and white grapes, cut, halved and seeded, the pulp and juice of oranges and candied cherries, all the fruit to be cut rather fine. cover them with a dressing made with four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, one gill of sherry, one tablespoonful maraschino and two of champagne. stir until the sugar is dissolved and then pour over the fruit and let the classes stand in a cold refrigerator an hour before serving. another dressing is made with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon mixed with two tablespoonfuls of sherry and the same of maderia [sic]. some people delight in a mixture of acid fruit, currants, raspberries, morello cherries, strawberries etc., with candied fruit cut into small strips, angelica, citron, cherries, oranges and all the many kinds that are now prepared. give a dressing of sugar and wine."    american salad book, maximillian de loup [doubleday, page & co.:garden ccity ny] 1926, forut edition, revised (p. 106 107) [note: this book offers recipes for fruit salad with jelly, french fruit salad, grape fruit and lettuce, grape fruit with mayonnaise, cherry salad, pear salad, acid pear salad, alligator pear salad, mexican alligator pear salad, prickly pear salad, orange salad (8 recipes), green apple salad, apple salad, apple and walnut salad, apple and celery salad, raspberry salad, strawberry salad, quince salad, currant salad, fig salad, mulberry salad, pineapple salad, melon salad, fruit salad (with mayonnaise dressing).] [1944] "plenty of fruit is a daily must in meals, so don't overlook fruit salad as an appetizer, main dish, salad course, or dessert, in keeping up your family's fruit and vitamin quota. of course, oranges and grapefruit, lemons, tangerines, and strawberries are especially good vitamin c sources. but bananas, apples, canned pineapple, peaches, and pears, prunes, apricots  in fact, all fresh, canned, and dried fruits  lend a helping hand, too."    good housekeeping cook book, new edition, completely revised [farrar & rinehart:new york] 1944 (p. 564) [note: this book contains recipes for apple and cottage cheese salad, banana and pineapple surprise salad, frozen ginger ale salad, frozen pear and cream cheese salad, frozen pineapple and cheese salad, frozen pistachio cheese salad, fruit salad plate, jellied fruit dessert salad, jellied grape salad, jellied grapefruit and lime salad, jellied strawberry cheese dessert salad, and several [fresh] fruit salad bowls.] what is fruit cocktail? fruit cocktail, a sweetened mix of assorted diced fruits served in a decorative stemmed glass, is generally presented in the appetizer course. unlike its culinary cousins ambrosia (dessert) and fruit salad (salad), it was also commercialized. early recipes are variously monikered "fruit cup" or "fruit cocktail." the crossover was sorely noted by domestic scientists. coincidentally? this period marked the crossover between several late 19th health foods (most notably breakfast cereal & peanut butter)and sweet commercial profits. [1901] "we have fallen so much into the fashion of practicing a 'course luncheon with what are sometimes called 'fruit cocktails' that we have almost lost sight of the value of the fruit cup as a final course of sweets at dinner or luncheon. our english cousins apply the name 'dessert' to fruits alone. we give it, indiscriminently, to puddings, pies, ices, jellies, custards and fruits whatver may be the name or nature of the dishes following the main business of the dinner. in bringing our present subject to the front, we harmonize wth the nomenclature of both nations. our fruit cup is especially convenient to the sagacious housemother, now that the changing seasons invite latitude and indifference to foods that have been partaken of freely all winter. the full maturity of the berry is not yet here..."    "school for housewives," marion harland, los angeles times, may 15, 1910 (p. viii6) "in these latter days many american cooks make a mixture of fruit, sugar and alcohol, and serve them as "salad." these are not salads; are heavy, rather unwholesome, and will never take the place of a salad. i much prefer to call them fruit cocktails, and serve them as first course at at luncheon or a twelve o'clock breakfast; or a dessert, and serve them with the ices at the close of the meal. fruits mixed with mayonnaise dressing, and served as a salad are unsightly, unpalatable and little nauseating. one cannot think of anything more out of keeping than white grapes in a thick mayonnaise. the simple so called french dressing is delicate and most worthy of recommendation. over lettuce, cress or celery it certainly makes a palatable and wholesome dinner salad, and one in which children can be freely indulged. such fruits as apples, pears, cherries, and pineapples, mixed with celery or lettuce, with french dressing, make an agreeable dinner salad."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 439) [1911] "menu for independence day fruit cocktail, olives, radishes, lobster bisque, crown roast of lamb, mint sauce, carrots, peas, latticed potatoes, artichoke or tomato jelly salad and cheese straws, cherry pie or strawberry ice cream with martha washington cake, demi tasse, fruit punch."    "uncle walt," los angeles times, june 30, 1911 (p. ii4) [1924] "fruit cocktail for the fruit cocktail mix in a cold bowl equal parts of peeled and diced honey dew melon, peeled and diced oranges, peeled and diced firm ripe peaches, peeled and diced apricots, pitted cherries, and diced pineapple. set in ice box for three hours before serving. divide into tall stem glasses and top each glass with a large strawberry dipped in powdered sugar."    "pracitcal recipes," los angeles times, a.l. wyman, december 8, 1924 (p. a8) "1913...fruit cocktail is created by a california canner."(p. 79) "1927...fruit canners agree upon a single "recipe" for fruit cocktail." (p. 161)    american century cookbook, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 related food? ambrosia! iceberg wedge (aka heart of lettuce) period cookbooks, old newspapers, and culinary reference books confirm the popularity of iceberg (also known as crisphead) lettuce in the 1920s. they do not, however, reveal claimants (hotels, chefs, restaurants) to the invention of the classic american wedge type salad served with creamy dressing. the general concensus of current sources squarely places this salad as a ubiquitous menu entry of the 1950s and 1960s. the lettuce wedge lost its place in the 1970s when consumers were intrigued by more interesting salads. recently, the iceberg wedge salad has resurfaced as a "reinvented" item on trendy menus. the new accompaniments are blue cheese (maytag, esp.) and nuts. what was iceberg lettuce? fruit salad, as we know it today [a variety of fresh, often tropical, fruits], surfaces in the mid 19th century. ambrosia is popular variation featuring coconut. culinary evidence confirms sometimes fruit salad was mixed with sugar and alcohol, thus the term "fruit cocktail." non alcoholic versions of this recipe were concocted during prohibition. also popular in the 1920s were jellied fruit salads. think: jell o molds. during world war ii fruit salads were promoted to ensure proper amount of vitamin c were included in the american diet. both canned and fresh fruits were recommended. fruit salads in northern europe (germany, for example) evolved differently. these recipes used mayonnaise. "fruit salad, an item which has adorned millions of menus in the western world, was first recognized as a dish in the mid 19th century....it is of course possible to have a 'salad' of dried fruits and nuts, as in the middle eastern khoshab; and, further east, indonesia offers the spicy fruit salad rujak, which is patently different from anything in the western world."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 323) a sampler of american fruit salad recipes: [1896] fannie farmer's recipes [1913] "fruit salad. equal quantities of grape fruit or oranges, apples and celery. peel the grape fruit or oranges, carefully removing all the bitter white skin; cut the pulp with bananas and apples into small dice, and cut the celery fine as for other salads; put the orange and apple together; the latter will absorb the juice of the orange. set all on ice  these fruit salads must be ice cold. when it is time to serve mix the fruit and celery together, put into a salad bowl, cover with cream dressing into which has been stirred a third as much cream as there is dressing, and add a little more salt to it in mixing. serve in a bed of tender lettuce leaves."    the american home cook book, grace e. denison [barse & hopkins:new york] 1913 (p. 378) [1923] "chop suey fruit salad. (six portions) (dainty for afternoon party refreshments.) on cup chopped figs 1 half cup chopped dates one half cup chopped prunes one half cup raisins two tablespoons lemon juice one half cup filberts one half cup diced pineapple one cup delicious cream salad dressing one half cup whipped cream mix the salad dressing and whipped ream and combine with the rest of the ingredients. serve daintily on lettuce leaves."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923 (p. 51) [note: this book offers several fruit salads, each with a brief headnote suggesting meal/course placement.] [1926] "salads in which fruits form a prominent part are becoming very popular. they are often served as a first course at lunchoens or in place of a course of fruit at dessert. for a first course they should be rather acid or made with fruit acid in nature, while later during a meal they are more enjoyed if sweetened and more highly flavored. as a rulee they are most attractive looking compounds often highly fragrant and appeal to all of our senses. almost any kind of acid fruit is nice to serve in this way. for eating with meats of birds the ordinary french dressing, omitting the onion, is good. for dessert, or at one of our american 'teas,' cold sweet fruit mixtures are preferred. neufchatel cheese is enjoyed with them at a late breakfast or luncheon. the fruit salads may be put into an ice cream freezer and cooled with the usual mixture of salt and ice. when handsome glass or porcelain dishes, with silver ones to place them in, are not available a pretty way to serve fruit salads is in dainty glasses. peaches, fresh figs and the many varieties of berries have always been popular with sugar and cream but, for variety, try one of the following methods which may be considerably varied by changing the fruits and proportions as the supplies change or the taste varies. "mixed fruit salad. fill delixated cuos or glasses with fresh pine apple, bananas and white grapes, cut, halved and seeded, the pulp and juice of oranges and candied cherries, all the fruit to be cut rather fine. cover them with a dressing made with four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, one gill of sherry, one tablespoonful maraschino and two of champagne. stir until the sugar is dissolved and then pour over the fruit and let the classes stand in a cold refrigerator an hour before serving. another dressing is made with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon mixed with two tablespoonfuls of sherry and the same of maderia [sic]. some people delight in a mixture of acid fruit, currants, raspberries, morello cherries, strawberries etc., with candied fruit cut into small strips, angelica, citron, cherries, oranges and all the many kinds that are now prepared. give a dressing of sugar and wine."    american salad book, maximillian de loup [doubleday, page & co.:garden ccity ny] 1926, forut edition, revised (p. 106 107) [note: this book offers recipes for fruit salad with jelly, french fruit salad, grape fruit and lettuce, grape fruit with mayonnaise, cherry salad, pear salad, acid pear salad, alligator pear salad, mexican alligator pear salad, prickly pear salad, orange salad (8 recipes), green apple salad, apple salad, apple and walnut salad, apple and celery salad, raspberry salad, strawberry salad, quince salad, currant salad, fig salad, mulberry salad, pineapple salad, melon salad, fruit salad (with mayonnaise dressing).] [1944] "plenty of fruit is a daily must in meals, so don't overlook fruit salad as an appetizer, main dish, salad course, or dessert, in keeping up your family's fruit and vitamin quota. of course, oranges and grapefruit, lemons, tangerines, and strawberries are especially good vitamin c sources. but bananas, apples, canned pineapple, peaches, and pears, prunes, apricots  in fact, all fresh, canned, and dried fruits  lend a helping hand, too."    good housekeeping cook book, new edition, completely revised [farrar & rinehart:new york] 1944 (p. 564) [note: this book contains recipes for apple and cottage cheese salad, banana and pineapple surprise salad, frozen ginger ale salad, frozen pear and cream cheese salad, frozen pineapple and cheese salad, frozen pistachio cheese salad, fruit salad plate, jellied fruit dessert salad, jellied grape salad, jellied grapefruit and lime salad, jellied strawberry cheese dessert salad, and several [fresh] fruit salad bowls.] what is fruit cocktail? fruit cocktail, a sweetened mix of assorted diced fruits served in a decorative stemmed glass, is generally presented in the appetizer course. unlike its culinary cousins ambrosia (dessert) and fruit salad (salad), it was also commercialized. early recipes are variously monikered "fruit cup" or "fruit cocktail." the crossover was sorely noted by domestic scientists. coincidentally? this period marked the crossover between several late 19th health foods (most notably breakfast cereal & peanut butter)and sweet commercial profits. "in these latter days many american cooks make a mixture of fruit, sugar and alcohol, and serve them as "salad." these are not salads; are heavy, rather unwholesome, and will never take the place of a salad. i much prefer to call them fruit cocktails, and serve them as first course at at luncheon or a twelve o'clock breakfast; or a dessert, and serve them with the ices at the close of the meal. fruits mixed with mayonnaise dressing, and served as a salad are unsightly, unpalatable and little nauseating. one cannot think of anything more out of keeping than white grapes in a thick mayonnaise. the simple so called french dressing is delicate and most worthy of recommendation. over lettuce, cress or celery it certainly makes a palatable and wholesome dinner salad, and one in which children can be freely indulged. such fruits as apples, pears, cherries, and pineapples, mixed with celery or lettuce, with french dressing, make an agreeable dinner salad."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 439) [1911] "menu for independence day fruit cocktail, olives, radishes, lobster bisque, crown roast of lamb, mint sauce, carrots, peas, latticed potatoes, artichoke or tomato jelly salad and cheese straws, cherry pie or strawberry ice cream with martha washington cake, demi tasse, fruit punch."    "uncle walt," los angeles times, june 30, 1911 (p. ii4) [1924] "fruit cocktail for the fruit cocktail mix in a cold bowl equal parts of peeled and diced honey dew melon, peeled and diced oranges, peeled and diced firm ripe peaches, peeled and diced apricots, pitted cherries, and diced pineapple. set in ice box for three hours before serving. divide into tall stem glasses and top each glass with a large strawberry dipped in powdered sugar."    "pracitcal recipes," los angeles times, a.l. wyman, december 8, 1924 (p. a8) "1913...fruit cocktail is created by a california canner."(p. 79) "1927...fruit canners agree upon a single "recipe" for fruit cocktail." (p. 161)    american century cookbook, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 related food? ambrosia! about iceberg wedge salad "there once was a time  before the arrival of mesclun, frisee, endive, spring mix, packaged salads, radicchio and arugula  when iceberg lettuce dominated the produce aisle. quartered, shredded, its leaves pulled off and transformed into cups for canned pears, it knew no rival until the 1970s when caesar chavez called for a boycott to protest the working conditions of california lettuce pickers. tastes changed, too. the wedge of iceberg drowning in a thick dressing was replaced with vinaigrette tossed leaf lettuces (especially romaine) and smaller, more exotic "designer" greens, all more nutritional and more flavorful than the "neutral" iceberg. iceberg  a head lettuce, as opposed to a leaf lettuce  is also known as "crisphead" lettuce since one of its chief virtues (some say its only virtue) is that it stays fresher longer than leaf lettuces."    "market watch 6/23: iceberg lettuce," jeanne mcmanus, the washington post, june 23, 1999, pg. f04 "take one wedge of iceberg lettuce. open a bottle of dressing and pour. garnish with a tomato slice. you've got salad, 1960s style."    "salads with sizzle; how do you dress up a salad into a meal? chefs offer their suggestions," leslie kelly, spokesman review (spokane, wa), june 18, 1997 (p. d1) "short of heating up a tv dinner, there are few more blatantly retro gestures than ordering a wedge of iceberg lettuce covered in a thick, creamy salad dressing. the lettuce itself remains popular in the united states. it still accounts for 70 percent of the lettuce raised in california, but that share is declining (in the mid 1970's it was as high as 80 percent), and anyone dining at fancier restaurants around the united states might wonder if it hadn't disappeared entirely, displaced by frisee, dandelion greens, oak leaf, lollo rosso, exotic cresses, microgreens, sprouts    anything, in short, that's green, has a leaf, and is not iceberg. but iceberg somehow manages to hang on. steakhouses refuse to give it up. and in some very unlikely places, it has earned a strange kind of cachet..."it's one of those things that's synonymous with growing up in america," mr. otsuka said. "everybody has a comfort level with it. served cold, it's very nice on the palate, with a good crunch." marc meyer, at five points, anoints a wedge of the stuff with a modernized, europeanized blue cheese dressing made with picon cheese from spain, toasted almond slices and radishes...despite its shortcomings, iceberg has always had its fans. james beard was one. "many people damn it," he once wrote, "but when broken up, not cut, it adds good flavor and a wonderfully crisp texture to a salad with other greens." it also keeps longer than other lettuces, he pointed out. flavor? surely the iceberg stands supreme as the blandest of all greens. little pieces? most americans side with the prim instructions given in the first "joy of cooking." "heads of iceberg lettuce are not separated," the directions read. "they are cut into wedge shaped pieces, or into crosswise slices." the lettuce is a relative newcomer, and confusingly named. a lettuce that went by the name of iceberg was developed in the 1890's, and somehow the name resurfaced when new varieties of durable, easily shippable crisphead lettuce began emerging in california in the mid 1920's. in 1948, the iceberg we know today was born. why iceberg? no one seems to know, although one popular theory holds that the name refers to the tons of ice that chilled it in the days before refrigerated rail cars. the big, cold wedge is a cornerstone of american cuisine. it survives, and so do the sludgelike dressings that drape it like heavy velvet curtains    the great, goopy family that includes blue cheese, green goddess, ranch and thousand island. i went for the wedge the other day at del frisco double eagle steak house. it arrived under a lavalike green ooze, a creamily high caloric green goddess dressing lumpy with tender bits of avocado....michael jordan's the steak house...the wedge wore a blue cheese dressing...john schenk, the chef at clementine, tuned in to this particular frequency years before tony restaurants began playing with iceberg..."    "critic's notebook; an offering to the green goddess," william grimes,the new york times, june 14, 2000, (p. f1) while icberg lettuce was employed for a variety of salads, the "classic" american restaurant wedge topped with a generous dollop of creamy dressing was sometimes called "heart of lettuce." creamy roquefort was the traditional dressing [1949] "heart of lettuce salad form cups from better outer leaves of iceberg lettuce. cut head into 4 to 6 wedge shaped pieces, then arrange a wedge in each cup of lettuce. make one to two lengthwise, then cross wise cuts almost through the wedge to make cutting of salad with fork easier. garnish with strip of pimento, celery curl and carrot strips. top with favorite dressing."    "salads," chicago defender, december 10, 1949 (p. 20) [1950] "lettuce salad with roquefort dressing 1 head lettuce 1 tablespoon chopped chives 1 tablespoon chopped parsley roquefort french dressing remove outside leaves and core from lettuce; wash and drain. cut lengthwise into quarters; arrange each on a salad plate; sprinkle with chives and parsley, and serve with dressing. serves 4. instead of roquefort french dressing use: avocado dressing, cottage cheese dressing, frozen tomato mayonnaise."    culinary arts institute encyclopedic cookbook, ruth berolzheimer editor [culinary arts institute:chicago] 1950 (p. 537) [1958] "salade subversive ingredients: lettuce, tomato, russian dressing procedure: 1. cut [lettuce] into wedges 2. cut [tomato] into quarters 3. arrange thusly [wedge in the middle of the plate, tomato quarter on each side] 4. pour over [russian dressing]  serve."    the new wolf in chef's clothing: the picture cook and drink book for men, robert h. loeb, jr. [follett publishing company:chicago] 1950, 1958 (p. 53) [1963] "head lettuce, or iceberg lettuce, or simpson lettuce is the most familiar of lettuces. it is the firm, tight, compace head of light green leaves. separated, the leaves make a lettuce cup as a container for potato salad, fruit salad, and so on. cut in wedges, it is a favorite of men, particularly those who like to pour blue cheese dressing over it."    mccall's cook book [random house:new york] 1963 (p. 490) "ethnic/cultural info: this type of lettuce is an excellent choice for making a classic greek salad with tomatoes, radishes and cucumbers. in 1894, a burpee & co. seed catalog stated this about iceberg lettuce: "there is no handsomer or more solid cabbage lettuce in cultivation." unfortunately, this lettuce variety has been the bane of true gourmet cooks and the butt of many culinary jokes. it has been claimed that a "cold pack" made from chilled iceberg lettuce leaves aids in the relief of bumps and bruises. chill whole leaves in freezer for at least one hour; crumple and secure with tape on the injury. works every time. geography/history: they say this lettuce came to be when a different looking and sweeter tasting head of lettuce somehow appeared in a grower's field over one hundred years ago. noticing it was quite different from the lettuces surrounding it and liking its flavor and superior crispness, the growers teamed with other lettuce producers to make it even better. this variety became a top seller and remains very popular still today. more accurately called crisphead, there are actually many varieties of this type of lettuce. some varieties produce reddish leaves tinged with green and some have plain and scalloped edges. iceberg lettuce was called "crisphead", its true name, until the 1920s. it acquired the name iceberg because of its ability to be an excellent long distance traveler when packed on ice. depending on the time of year, crisphead lettuce develops a firm head in 60 to 120 days and is harvested by hand. it has been claimed that a "cold pack" made from chilled iceberg lettuce leaves aids in the relief of bumps and bruises. chill whole leaves in freezer for at least one hour; crumple and secure with tape on the injury. works every time." source: specialty produce according to a survey of articles published in the new york times, recipes titled "pasta salad" were published in the early 1960s. they proliferated in the 1980s, when nouvelle cuisine delighted in creating dishes with gourmet pastas of various shapes, sizes, and colors. pasta salad was a trendy way to carbo load back in the yuppie era. this simple, economical dish was promoted on two fronts: upscale, affordable cuisine and practical way to use leftovers. before long? mainstream american food companies began promoting "pasta salad" box kits. these can still be found in our grocery stores today. [1927] "elbow macaroni salad. a nutritious and satisfying summer dish. put one package elbow macaroni in three quarts of boiling salted water, cook until tender, which will generally take about ten minutes; stir occasionally,. the place elbow macaroni in colander and shake until thoroughly drained. never start to cook in cold or merely warm water. method.  mix cooked elbow macaroni with one cup mayonnaise, add one onion (grated), two green peppers (chopped)), serve on lettuce leaf garnish with chopped egg and slices of green pepper."    "tested recipes," washington post, july 24, 1927 (p. 12) [1930] "mock potato salad. 1/2 package elbow macaroni 6 large sized potatoes 1 medium sized onion 1 small red or green pepper 1 hard boiled egg mayonnaise and seasoning to taste. boil the potatoes with the skins on. when cool peel and cut in dice sized cubes. boil the macaroni until tender, in salted water, immerse in cold water. cut the onion and pepper in small pieces. mix all together with the mayonnaise and seasoning. garnish on top with the hard boiled egg and a little parsley if desired. this is quite an addition to the old fashioned potato salad. miss effie m. cockrill, vienna, va."    "four best macaroni recipes are published for readers," stephanie reilly, washington post, november 17, 1930 (p. 11) [1962] "macaroni salad. cook 1 pound of elbow macaroni according to the directions on the package. drain thoroughly and prepare as you do potato salad 3."    james beard cookbook, in collaboration with isabel e. callvert [e.p. dutton:new york] 1961 (p. 385) [note: potato salad 3 is dressed with mayonnaise and garnished with pimiento strips, slices hard cooked egg, sliced olives and capers.] [1982] "the pasta salad, that darling of the carry out shop, is here to stay. especially in warm weather, the idea of tossing vegetables or seafood or poultry or meat or just herbs with a dressing, anchoring the mixture with cooked and cooled macaroni, tortellini or spaghetti to make it filling enough to be dinner is especially appealing. pasta salads can be strictly improvisational, relying more on a pass through the leftover department of the refrigerator than on a planned shopping list. the inspiration can be italian, french, asian or a combination of these influences assembled with a kind of artful freedom that only a contemporary american kitchen can provide. thus, asian sesame oil and wine vinegar imported from france that coexist on the pantry shelves can be called upon to dress the salad. when preparing a pasta salad, it is important to bear in mind that pasta is high in starch. the salad should be well lubricated to prevent the mixture from becoming sticky and gummy, which it often does as it waits to be served, especially if it has been refrigerated. the one problem with a great many of the pasta salads prepared by catering shops is that they are too stiff. there are two ways of alleviating this problem. first, when preparing pasta, especially for a salad   and even when using leftover pasta that has been in the refrigerator   the pasta should be well rinsed in cold water. don't worry if some of the water still clings to the pasta after it has been drained, because the little that does will dilute the sauce and may actually enhance the texture of the salad, keeping the dressing smooth and satiny. second, the dressing should be thick enough to cling to the pasta and the other ingredients but should not be so stiff that it will not drop from a spoon. a heavy mayonnaise should be diluted with some lemon juice, milk, vinegar and oil, well stirred yogurt or other liquid. and after a pasta salad has been refrigerated, it should be mixed to make sure that the dressing still coats the ingredients and has not been absorbed by the pasta. adding cucumbers or tomatoes with their high moisture content to pasta salads helps maintain the pleasing, smooth balance of pasta and dressing. if a salad has been refrigerated, always check the seasonings before serving, because cold temperatures tend to diminish flavors. the following salads can be served as appetizers, main dishes or side dishes for lunches, suppers or picnics. chicken and ziti salad 1 pound ziti salt 1/2 cup chicken consomme 1 1/2 cups fresh green beans, in 1/2 inch length (about 1/2 pound) 2 small zucchinis, quartered lengthwise and cut into 1/2 inch thick slices 1 cup peeled, diced cucumber 4 cups diced cooked chicken 1/2 cup minced red onion freshly ground black pepper 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise, preferably home made 3 tablespoons minced fresh dill 1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts. 1. drop ziti into boiling, salted water and cook until tender, about eight minutes. drain, rinse in cold water and drain again thoroughly. mix with consomme and set aside. 2. drop beans into boiling salted water and cook for one minute. add the zucchini and cook two minutes longer, until the vegetables are cooked but still crunchy. drain, allow to cool and mix with ziti. 3. add cucumber, chicken and onion. season with salt and freshly ground pepper. fold in the mayonnaise and two tablespoons of the dill. 4. salad should be refrigerated if not used immediately. if the dressing has become too stiff, mix in a little more consomme. check salad for seasoning and garnish the top with remaining tablespoon of dill and the walnuts before serving. yield: 8 servings. chinese shrimp and pasta salad 1 cup mung bean sprouts 3/4 pound raw medium shrimp 1 cup peeled, seeded, sliced cucumber 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger 2 scallions, minced 2 teaspoons minced fresh coriander leaves 1 tablespoon dry sherry 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 1/3 cup sesame oil, asian style 1 teaspoon soy sauce 1/4 teaspoon hot chili oil 1/2 pound asian buckwheat noodles (soba), cooked, drained and rinsed in cold water. 1. bring a quart of water to a boil. drop in the bean sprouts. when the water returns to the boil, remove the sprouts with a slotted spoon and drain. 2. add the shrimp to the boiling water. when the water returns to a full boil the shrimp will have turned pink. remove shrimp and drain. as soon as the shrimp are cool enough to handle, shell, de vein and slice them in half lengthwise. combine shrimp, bean sprouts and cucumbers and mix with ginger, scallions, coriander, sherry, vinegar, sesame oil, soy sauce and hot chili oil. 3. place cooled, drained noodles in a bowl, toss with the shrimp mixture and serve. yield: 2 to 4 servings. cold pasta, with fresh tomatoes 3 cups peeled, seeded, chopped ripe tomatoes 1 teaspoon finely minced garlic 2 tablespoons lemon juice 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1/3 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons minced fresh basil 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 2 tablespoons drained capers 2 tablespoons chopped pitted greek olives 1 pound thin spaghetti or linguine salt and freshly ground black pepper. 1. combine tomatoes, garlic, lemon juice, wine vinegar, olive oil, one tablespoon each of basil and parsley, the capers and olives in a bowl. season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside. you should need very little salt. 2. bring at least four quarts of salted water to a boil. add spaghetti or linguine and cook until al dente, six to eight minutes. drain well and rinse thoroughly under cold running water. the rinsing will cool the pasta and also remove enough starch so it is less likely to become sticky. 3. toss the pasta with the sauce. taste and season with salt and pepper if desired. sprinkle with remaining basil and parsley and serve. yield: 4 to 6 servings."    "food; many faces of pasta for summer dining," florence fabricant, new york times, jun 20, 1982 (p. a16) related menu selections? oriental noodle salad & potato salad. when did americans "discover" mesclun? mesclun entered the american culinary lexicon in the late 1970s. presumably, travelers returning from provence clamored for the trendy "new" salad. california chefs in trendy restaurants recognized potential. today, we find pre packaged mesclun mixes (aka spring mix) in mainstream supermarkets. and yes! they command higher prices than standard salad greens. is it mesclun or mesclum? in the usa this leafy mix is called mesclun. provencal purists prefer mesclum. there is no connection between mescal (potent taquila ingredient) and mesclun. [1967] "the provence regions along the mediterranean coast are still the keenest herb consuming areas of france, wehre the current 'in' salad is called 'mesclun'  a medieval mixture of cost lettuces [red and white], chicories [both bitter and curly], chervil and winter cress. peasant food that has become the rolls royce of salads, it commands high prices in saint tropez restaurants and sells at the exclusive fauchon store on the place de la madeleine in paris at around $2 a pound."    "latest from paris," monique, chicago tribune, august 3, 1967 (p. c8) [1979] "the lightest and most refreshing first course is the mesclun, a provencale salad of lacy mixed greens with a sharp vinaigrette dressing made with strong, fruity olive oil and served with garlic and oil flavored croutons."    "great french country restaurants," mimi sheraton, new york times, june 27, 1979 (p. c1) [review of restaurant de bacon] [1986] "some say mesclun. others say mesclum. some insist that this fashionable provencal salad is a blend of a dozen different greens, all sown, grown and picked together. jean and yvonne tabo, maraichers, or market gardeners, who were among the first to grow it commercially in france, are categorical: it's called mesclum. according to them, it's nine or 10 different greens, each grown in separate rows, then tossed together in approximately equal proportions when picked. and if you want each of the greens to have the right texture and flavor, you pick them when they're very small and very young. "the tabos, who live in carros, the herb and vegetable growing region just north of nice, switched from selling vegetables to growing them about 10 years ago. they settled on mesclum because, at the time, no one was growing this traditionally nicoise salad mixture commercially. today, they are one of a handful of maraichers   and possibly the only ones   who specialize in mesclum. their lettuce is savored not just in france, but also in copenhagen, london, berlin and toronto, where it is flown three times each week, year round, from the nice airport. (they do not yet fly their mesclum to the united states, but are now discussing the possibilities with a california supplier.) the tabo mesclum, grown in impeccably neat rows in a series of low, open sided greenhouses, includes red and green tipped oak leaf lettuce, rocket, romaine, chervil  both a slightly curly white endive and a firmer, very curly green variety   escarole and a very bitter variety of dandelion. in the wintertime, the tabos add a few rows of colorful red trevise, the firm and bitter lettuce that takes its name from the italian town of trevise. "'for some reason, when we grow trevise here in the summertime, the leaves won't turn red, and it doesn't taste the same,'' explains madame tabo. the greens are picked early in the morning, and only the youngest, tenderest shoots are selected. then, they are plunged together directly into a water bath, drained and packed loosely in sturdy wooden crates for the market. like the history of many regional foods, the mesclum story is hazy. some historians suggest that both the word mesclum (latin for mixture) and the idea for the salad blend, were brought into nice from the ligurian region of italy before nice was reunited with france in 1860. in nice, the salad became known as mesclun in standard french and mesclum in the nicois dialect known as nissarde. the tabos and others in the region remember that their parents and grandparents always grew a blend of greens in the family potager, or vegetable garden, then mixed them with all the wild and domestic herbs that grew so naturally and profusely in the area. "during the late 1940's, as restaurants proliferated along the cote d'azur, mesclum grew in popularity and also became better known outside of provence. today, maraichers like the tabos have plenty of company north of nice, where the terraced hillsides are covered with row upon row of serres or greenhouses, shelters for the tons of herbs, lettuce, tomatoes and zucchini blossoms that are grown in the hot, humid climate year round. the greens are usually sold in loose bunches in outdoor fruit and vegetable markets throughout the region, and sometimes they are simply called salade melange. the best place to find mesclum today is in nice's cours salyea open air market, held each morning but monday. there are also large commercial operations that grow the mixture, package it in plastic and sell it in supermarkets or sometimes open air markets. no matter how mesclun is grown or what kinds of greens are contained in the mixture,, the challenge for the chef is to present a multicolored, multitextured salad with a subtle contrast of flavors, ranging from feathery and delicate to pungent and assertive. a home composed mesclum salad might include peppery nasturtium blossoms, firm leafed pourpier (purslane), mache (lamb's lettuce), senneson (chickweed) and parsley, as well as a few leaves of basil, summer savory and lavender tipped hyssop. purists, such as the tabos, insist that neither vegeta bles, croutons nor cheese should be added to this already complex mixture, and that the salad should be tossed by hand, after sprinkling it with a simple vinaigrette, consisting of nothing but extra virgin olive oil, homemade red wine vinegar, salt, pepper and perhaps a touch of dijon mustard."    "fare of the country; melange of greens grown in france," patricia wells, new york times, november 9, 1986 (sect. 10, p. 12) [1991] "throughout the country, energetic and experimental gardeners and farmers are creating scrumptious salads using eclectic blends of seasonal greens. often referred to as mesclun, such concoctions have their origins in the markets of southern france and northern italy and are the staples of everyday shoppers in nice, provence, rome, and athens. mesclun was introduced to our shores in part through the creativity of experimental and high priced restaurants. what the laborer eats in europe is often remarkably similar to what's served to the gastronomes of new york city. "after nearly a decade, mesclun has begun to enter america's backyard gardens. one example of this trend is the popularity of 'marvel of four seasons', a colorful red leafed butterhead lettuce. this gorgeous and tasty lettuce  which also stands up to the heat of early summer  was relatively unknown four or five years ago. at that time it was sold only in a few specialty seed catalogs such as the cook's garden, le marche seeds international, and shepherd's garden seeds, usually under the french name 'merveille des quatre saisons'. now this lettuce is available from larger seed companies as well. "mesclun is a french dialect word from the region around nice and translates roughly as "mixture." the definition of the "proper" mixture of greens, however, is as varied as the number of growers. two of the most common ingredients are rocket, or arugula (eruca vesicaria subspecies sativa), and chervil (anthriscus cerefolium). some people attribute mesclun's beginnings to thrifty market gardeners who harvested and sold the seedlings thinned from their plots of salad greens. american gardeners and small market growers have greatly expanded the european concept to include edible wild greens, an amazing range of herbs, and colorful edible flowers. indeed, almost any edible plant can be used, and discovering new ingredients adds to the fun of growing and serving mesclun. "one of the people who introduced and expanded the definition of mesclun is doug gosling, for eight years the head gardener of the farallones institute, in occidental, california (recently renamed the center for seven generations gardens). an astute gardener, doug is known for the superb quality of his organically grown and meticulously gathered mesclun. one produce broker in new york city rates the farallones mix as "the best from the west coast. it is the wonderful blend of all the oddball and seasonal wild edibles that sets the farallones mix apart from others." gosling says growing mesclun ingredients "brings a renewed sense of discovery and joy to the garden. we look at the entirety of a plant's life to see what it has to offer. this approach to growing a salad is really more about a shift in attitudes than a change in gardening skills." sometimes new salad ingredients turn out to be plants thought of as weeds. "we used to overlook plants like salad burnet [sanguisorba officinalis], plantain [plantago major], purslane [portulaca oleracea], and wild mustard [brassica juncea]," says gosling. "now we gather different parts of each and even move the plants around in the garden like any cultivated plant." farallones gardeners harvest the most succulent, tender, and tasty portion of each wild edible, and only during its prime season. tiny portions of young salad burnet leaves are gathered in spring. tender leaves of lemony dock (rumex acetosa) are snipped from the heart of the rosette. only the first small leaves of the slightly bitter dandelion (taraxacum officinale) are harvested. tender tips of lamb squarters (chenopodium album) are collected only until the plant begins to bloom. the young, juicy foliage of purslane, however, can be used throughout the summer. and the best time to use wild mustard is when the young flower buds have formed. at that stage, according to gosling, "they taste like a spicy form of sprouting broccoli." "culinary herbs can also be included in mesclun. when an herbal garnish is mixed into the salad, it's like incorporating some of the salad dressing  all that's needed is a splash of oil. the list of herbs suitable for mesclun is long and includes plants such as chives (allium schoenoprasum), summer savory (satureja hortensis), fennel (foeniculum vulgate), golden marjoram (origanum marjorana), variegated lemon thyme (thymus x citriodorus), the young leaves of lovage (levisticum officinale), basil (ocimum basilicum), lemon balm (melissa officinalis), anise hyssop (agastache foeniculum), and sweet cicely (myrrhis odorata). tiny sprigs, tender young shoots, or the freshest flowers of these herbs are blended into the mix to give exciting bursts of flavor. be careful using the mints, however, as they bruise easily and darken in storage; a vinaigrette dressing will darken the foliage even further. "while working at the farallones institute, gosling developed a number of techniques for growing mesclun that have made it more efficient to cultivate, expanded its range of flavor, and extended its growing season. as gosling remarks, "we had the luxury of approaching salad gardening as an art. i could focus on excellence without the economic constraints that most farmers face." what impresses me the most about farallones mesclun is its vitality and extended shelf life. if properly refrigerated, it stays almost perfectly fresh for 10 days or more. gosling explains the mix's longevity thus: "much of the keeping qualities are probably due to the early morning harvest. we carefully hand pick only the best leaves. we field wash the mix only if there's a bit of wilt. the greens are spun dry. and certainly a healthy soil makes for healthy plants." the gardeners at farallones prefer organic methods, which depend on a healthy, fertile soil. the institute's gardens were begun in 1975; to date, 75 to 150 tons of compost have been applied to the raised beds, which total less than four acres. for each 100 square feet of bed, the gardeners apply two wheelbarrow loads of compost and one wheelbarrow load of aged dairy manure. next they single dig the beds, breaking up the surface clods as they shape the beds. gosling says that he and the other gardeners actually "massage the beds, crumbling all the small clods with our hands." finally, before each bed is planted, they sprinkle it lightly with quarry dust, which costs $9.00 a ton and provides valuable trace minerals."    "mesclun," r. kourik, horticulture, april 1991 (p. 36) [1997] "what's in a name? a lot of dining and gardening excitement when the name is "mesclum." one definition calls mesclum "nothing more than a mixture of special green, some tangy and some mild, that are usually harvested young and mixed in your favorite salad.?" so meteoric is its rise that the national garden bureau, a nonprofit research organization funded by seed companies, has made 1997 the year of mesclum."    "mesclum brings status to salads," christian science monitor, march 20, 1997 (p. 15) compare with this 19th century american recipe: "chiffonade salad. this salad consisits of all the salads in season. for example, lettuce, romaine, chicory escarole, tomato, beets, and celery cut in long slices. the dressing for this salad is made as follows: take one hard boiled egg, and smash it as fine as possible with a fork; then add two pinches of paprika and a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of french mustard, a teaspoonful of hashed chives, a teaspoonful of hashed estragon, two tablespoonfuls of oil, and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. add this to the salad, mix it well together and serve."    "women can order dinners," new york times, august 7, 1898 (p. 14) our survey of historic usa newspapers suggests this cold noodle salad was introduced to american diners in the early 1980s. this coincided with a resurging interest in "new" asian cuisine [apart from standard chinese american fare] and carbo loading diets. think: chilled italian pasta salad featuring small bite colorfully presented veggies & dressing. cold far east inspired followed suit. both salad types were promoted to savvy lunchers as a healthy, economical, delicious alternative to standard fast, american traditional, or continental fare. as true with many recipes of this type, there are many variations and names. in the case of oriental noodle salad, recommended noodles range from traditional (soba) to fast food (ramen). in a pinch "italian" pasta products work just fine. the underlying culinary elements are cold noodles dressed oriental type sauce. sesame oil and peanuts are common, but not required, elements. [1983] "a revolution is under way in american cooking. it has become the primary focus for cooking schools and cookbooks, young chefs and new restaurants...thousands of words have been written about the revolution, which highlights a mixture of culinary cultures; a return to the rustic, the homespun and the simple; an emphasis on fresh fruits and vegetables, fish and poultry in place of red meats; the use of meat as a condiment rather than the center of the meal, and the disappearance of thick gravies and cream sauces. a look at the combined impact of these elements leads to a somewhat unexpected conclusion, one that the professionals are just beginning to talk about: nutrition and good food can co exist... "cold chinese noodle salad 8 ounces chinese egg noodles, preferably fresh 1 1/2 teaspoons sesame oil 3 tablespoons brewed tea or water 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce 2 tablespoons sesame seed paste 1 tablespoon peanut oil 1 tablespoon dry sherry 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar 2 garlic cloves, mashed to paste half inch piece of fresh ginger, finely minced 1 1/2 teaspoon chili oil freshly ground black pepper chopped green onion 1. cook noodles in boiling water for 2 to 4 minutes, tasting frequently so they don't overcook. drain well and toss with sesame oil. cover and refrigerate up to 2 days ahead. 2. combine remaining ingredients except green onion and mix well. (sesame paste often separates and can be difficult to recombine. paste and some oil can be processed in food processor with steel knife. add garlic and ginger, and while paste is being blended, garlic and ginger will be finely minced.) refrigerate for up to a week. before serving, return to room temperature. 3. to serve, mix sauce with noodles and serve topped with green onion. yield: 2 to 3 servings. note: if fresh chinese egg noodles are not available, use american spaghettini or linguine. leftover cooked chicken meat can be julienned and added to the sauce if desired. chinese sesame paste is preferable to tahini, middle eastern sesame paste, because it has a more intense flavor, but tahini can be substituted. "   "new food ways to help a busy cook cope," marian burros, new york times, march 2, 1983 (p. c1) [1986] "chilled oriental noodle salad 1 (3 ounce) package chicken flavored japanese style noodles 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon sesame oil dash chili oil 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar salt, pepper 1/4 cup very thin zucchini slices 1/4 cup shredded carrots 1 tablespoon green onion, cut julienne 1 clove garlic, minced 1/4 pound cooked bay shrimp 2 tablespoons toasted slivered almonds bring 2 cups water to a boil. break noodles in several placed before opening package. remove seasoning packet and set aside. cook noodles over medium 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. reserve 1 teaspoon seasoning mix for dressing. remove noodles from heat and stir in remainder of seasoning packet. chill. combine reserved seasoning mix, vegetable, sesame and chili oils, rice wine vinegar and sugar and season to taste with salt and pepper. mix well. add dressing, zucchini, carrot, green onion, garlic and shrimp to noodle mixture. refrigerate. sprinkle almonds over salad just before serving. makes 2 servings. variations: 3 ounces cooked chicken, turkey, beef, pork, lamb, canned salmon or tuna may be substituted for bay shrimp."   "it's in the bag," lois drake, los angeles times, october 9, 1986 (p. k1) [1991] "the noodle was born in china. the peanut in south america. cooks united the two in spicy cool salads. and we can't seem to get enough. during the past decade, variations on the theme have become standards on menus of catering businesses, restaurants, supermarket delis, takeout food shops and casual cafes. countless cookbooks include recipes for this popular dish, equally welcome on winter buffet tables and summertime picnic tables. when they're out of oriental noodle salad at the wedge, employees might as well duck behind the counter to avoid the wrath of disappointed customers. leah sprinkle, head chef at this specialty food store in university village, says their blend of noodles with an indonesian style peanut sauce is a bestseller. during a busy week, with caterings, they make more than 50 pounds of it. jane hummer of mangetout inc. says the pairing of cool noodles and peanuts in salads seems to transcend all boundaries: "whether we're catering at a construction site or in the elegant boardroom of a major corporation, this salad is a favorite."the blended flavors do a slow dance on the tongue   the sweet and sour from sugar and rice wine, the saltiness of soy sauce, the spiciness of chili peppers. but it's also the textures   the smoothness of cool noodles, the creaminess of peanut butter, the crunch of whole or chopped peanuts. thin chinese noodles   either dry or fresh   are standard for this salad. but you can substitute thin spaghetti   vermicelli or angel hair pasta. the salads are good for entertaining because most can be made in advance and refrigerated. as today's five recipes illustrate, imaginative cooks drive several culinary detours on their way to the same destination:    chinese noodle salad with citrus and spicy peanuts gets flavor accents from orange juice and peel, rice and sherry vinegars, grated fresh ginger and jalapeno pepper. raw shelled peanuts are baked with a mixture of oil, paprika, cayenne pepper and salt. snow peas, carrot, green onions, daikon radish and cilantro provide more flavor, texture and eye appeal. the recipe is from greens, the acclaimed vegetarian restaurant in san francisco. chef annie somerville says chinese noodle salad has been a favorite since opening day, and this is the newest version.    the dressing for asian peanut noodles includes crunchy peanut butter, brewed black tea, sesame oil and hot chili oil.    peanut noodles with shrimp can serve as a main course salad. a half  pound of small cooked shrimp are tossed with the other ingredients, including pineapple chunks. the salad can be made up to 24 hours in advance. stir in the roasted peanuts and diced cucumber just before serving.    chunky peanut butter and coarsely chopped roasted peanuts both appear in peanut yogurt noodles with slivered vegetables. matchstick slices of carrot and red bell pepper brighten the appearance.    combine parsley, garlic, peanuts, soy sauce, salt, sesame oil, butter or margarine, lemon peel and juice and freshly ground pepper in a food processor, and you have peanut pesto, a quick and easy mixture to sauce noodles or pasta."    "spicy peanut and pasta theme is privong irresistibly popular in delis, cafes and cookbooks," larry brown, the seattle times, may 19, 1991 (p. f1) [1995] "remember when pasta salad meant elbow macaroni dressed with mayonnaise and not much else? well, times have changed, and today the term pasta salad is just as apt to refer to oriental noodles bathed in sesame oil or cheese tortellini tossed with sun dried tomatoes. the options have swelled like noodles in water. supermarkets offer a boatload of pastas, from tiny acine di pepe from italy to soba noodles from japan. stir ins, once limited to onions, celery and peppers, have expanded to exotic produce, imported cheeses and trendy seasonings. even the dressings add variety, with flavored oils and infused vinegars pouring on new tastes. what all this means is that this summer's picnics and patio parties should not be boring. we offer a quartet of ideas, including a takeoff from the middle eastern tabbouleh, a sesame flavored noodle salad from the orient and a tortellini toss that's sunny with mediterranean flavors. and for macaroni salad lovers, we present a version that is almost all american. oriental noodle salad 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar 3 tablespoons sesame oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon sugar 3/4 teaspoon chili paste, or more to taste 1 clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon grated fresh gingerroot 1/4 lb. fresh pea pods 1 bunch green onions, chopped 1 medium sized sweet red pepper, cut into julienne strips 12 ounces fresh chinese noodles 1/2 cup chopped peanuts 1/4 cup chopped cilantro for garnish whisk together the vinegar, sesame oil, soy sauce, sugar, chili paste, garlic and ginger. set aside. remove stem ends and strings from pea pods and blanch in small amount of boiling water about 1 minute, until color brightens. drain and refresh under cold running water. pat dry and cut crosswise into thirds. place in mixing bowl with green onions and red pepper. cook noodles according to package directions. drain and cool under cold running water just until noodles are lukewarm. drain and pat dry. add to mixing bowl. pour in dressing and toss thoroughly. add peanuts and cilantro and toss again. serve at room temperature. makes 8 to 10 servings."   "pasta salads sport international flair," sue dawson, columbus dispatch, june 7, 1995, (p. h1) [1995] "remember when pasta salad meant elbow macaroni dressed with mayonnaise and not much else? well, times have changed, and today the term pasta salad is just as apt to refer to oriental noodles bathed in sesame oil or cheese tortellini tossed with sun dried tomatoes. the options have swelled like noodles in water. supermarkets offer a boatload of pastas, from tiny acine di pepe from italy to soba noodles from japan. stir ins, once limited to onions, celery and peppers, have expanded to exotic produce, imported cheeses and trendy seasonings. even the dressings add variety, with flavored oils and infused vinegars pouring on new tastes. what all this means is that this summer's picnics and patio parties should not be boring. we offer a quartet of ideas, including a takeoff from the middle eastern tabbouleh, a sesame flavored noodle salad from the orient and a tortellini toss that's sunny with mediterranean flavors. and for macaroni salad lovers, we present a version that is almost all american. oriental noodle salad 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar 3 tablespoons sesame oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon sugar 3/4 teaspoon chili paste, or more to taste 1 clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon grated fresh gingerroot 1/4 lb. fresh pea pods 1 bunch green onions, chopped 1 medium sized sweet red pepper, cut into julienne strips 12 ounces fresh chinese noodles 1/2 cup chopped peanuts 1/4 cup chopped cilantro for garnish whisk together the vinegar, sesame oil, soy sauce, sugar, chili paste, garlic and ginger. set aside. remove stem ends and strings from pea pods and blanch in small amount of boiling water about 1 minute, until color brightens. drain and refresh under cold running water. pat dry and cut crosswise into thirds. place in mixing bowl with green onions and red pepper. cook noodles according to package directions. drain and cool under cold running water just until noodles are lukewarm. drain and pat dry. add to mixing bowl. pour in dressing and toss thoroughly. add peanuts and cilantro and toss again. serve at room temperature. makes 8 to 10 servings."   "pasta salads sport international flair," sue dawson, columbus dispatch, june 7, 1995, (p. h1) asian american salad dressings far east inspired dressings were developed to accompany oriental noodle salads. [1963] "chinese chicken salad [dressing] 2 tablespoon chopped toasted sesame seeds, 2 tablepoons sugar; 1 level teaspoon of salt; 1 level teaspoon of monosodium glutamate; 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper; 1/4 cup of salad oil, and 3 tablespoons of vinegar. combine the ingredients and mix."    "round about," los angeles times, june 30, 1963 (p. b28) [1968] "sesame seed oil dressing. 1/2 tsp. sesame seed oil, 2 tbsp. chinese plum suace, 1 tbsp. sugar, 1 tsp. white wine vinegar, 1/2 tsp. dry msutard. combine oil, plum sauce, sugar, vinegar and mustard, mixing thorougly."    "menu variety in chinese dishes," los angeles times, october 17, 1968 (p. g33a) [1977] "chinese chicken salad dressing. 2 tbsp. sugar, 1 tbsp. sesame oil, 1 tsp. salt, 3 tbsp. vinegar, 1/4 cup salad oil, 1/2 tsp. cracked pepper. put all in bowl and beat with egg beater. pour over salad and mix lightly. makes 6 generous servings."    "international treats, los angeles times, july 14, 1977 (p. cs_a3) "flavors from the orient have been captured in oriental chef salad dressing. oriental chef's four new flavors  delicate sesame, tangy soy, snappy ginger and creamy lemon  have been developed for american tastes. the dressing contain natural ingredients and about half the caloires of regular dressings. they are made with safflower and corn oil, which are low in cholesterol. oriental chef dressings are processed in baldwin park by q&b foods, inc., of q.p. corp."    "new dressings from the orient," los angeles times, feburary 28, 1985 (p. k42) related menu selections? chinese chicken salad & pasta salad. modern recipes for panzanella (there are dozens of variations) can't be older than the 16th century. why? tomatoes are a new world food. the general concensus of the food experts is that panzanella, as we know it today, originated in the middle regions of italy. the recipe was promoted to mainstream america in the late 1970s. the oldest reference to panzanella in the new york times is a restaurant review for da silvano, january 14, 1977 (p. 56). a survey of magazine and newspaper articles reveals this salad became popular with gourmet diners in the united states sometime during the 1980s. today? we find panzanella salad made with all sorts of interesting ingredients such as french bread, commercially made salad dressings, artichoke hearts, and seafood. "panzanella...summer salad of central italy consisting of tomatoes, cucumber, onion, basil, vinegar, and olive oil. also pan molle (soft bread) and panbagnato (soaked bread). from the latin panis (bread)."    dictionary of italian food and drink, john mariani [broadway books:new york] 1997 (p. 178) "panzanella (tuscan bread salad). this simple country salad surfaced on this side of the atlantic in the 1980s with the proliferation of high end italian restaurants. there are dozens of variations on the theme."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 304) "waverly root speaks none too fondly of panzanella: "a poor man's lunch," he calls it, "salad dressing on bread, producing a sogginess which accounts for its name (litlle swamp)." mr. root and his palate notwithstanding, panzanella is one terrific lunch. basically a tuscan bread salad with oil and vinegar, what else it contains depends upon who is doing the cooking. tuscans call panzanella a cold picnic dish, with the ingredients put together at the last minute, the bread soaked in water at home, the tomatoes and cucumbers simply picked from the vines as needed. but one roman source describes it as a first course served in large families to fill everyone up before the more expensive second course dishes are put on the table. tony may, the owner of sandro's, pailio and la camelia, three italian restaurants in manhattan, says the dish is also called pane molle, which means "soft bread."...earthy and satisfying, panzanella is, at the same time, cool and refreshing. in "the food of the western world," theodora fitzgibbon talks about the anchovies, chilies, basil, garlic and capers it contains by never mentions tomatoes, except as a garnish. other recipes call for onion, cucumber and celery. on calls for spring onions rather than yellow of red onions. mr. fiorti uses both green and red peppers...the proportions vary from cook to cook. some use vast quantities of olive oil  six ounces to a half pound of bread  while others use only two ounces for a pound of bread. in fact, panzanella is a salad designed to be made with leftover, stale bread and whatever of the other ingredients are available. italia bread  purists insist it must be tuscan bread  is also indispensible, though there have been recipes suggesting the substitution of whole wheat bread or rye bread for those who are not fortunate enough to have easy access to the comactly textured italian, or even french, country loaves."    "panzanella, a salad perfect for summer," marian burros, de gustibus column, the new york times, june 21, 1986 (p. 52) "q: i am trying to recreate a tomato and bread salad that i had when i was in italy   and i never seem to be able to get it just right. something is missing. hopefully you have some advice. thanks. _ jay .j. a: so you want to make a panzanella salad. panzanella ... doesn't it sound like some sort of military attack, using old fashioned cannons? actually it's what a tomato and bread salad is called....tuscan bread, some seasonal tomatoes, some fresh basil, a little bit of really good local olive oil, and some balsamic vinegar. toss it all in a bowl... panzanella was probably invented for three reasons. one of them was because italy was a very poor country for many years and bread was inexpensive. also, nothing was wasted, and with this recipe, they could use stale bread. the last reason it probably came about was in the warm, dry italian summers it was useless trying to keep the bread fresh. when it became dry they figured out a way to revive it with some simple ingredients. today we think of panzanella as a bread and tomato salad, but it's interesting to note that the salad actually dates to before the 1500s when tomatoes, a product from the new world, were unknown in europe. so the original panzanella salad did not have tomatoes, but probably included whatever was on hand in the garden _ like peppers, cucumbers, onions, and garlic, along with some capers, black olives, possibly anchovies, olive oil and a little bit of vinegar or lemon juice. i'm going to assume that you had the panzanella in tuscany, because it is considered a tuscan dish (however, there are distinctive panzanella salads from other regions, such as sicily.)"    "the chef's table: panzanella done just right," jim coleman and candace hagan, philadelphia daily news, july 26, 2004 (food news) "at the tail end of the 19th century (in the united states) the domestic science/home economics movement took hold. proponnents of this new science were obsessed with control. they considered tossed plates of mixed greens "messy" and eschewed them in favor of "orderly presentations." salad items were painstakenly separated, organized, and presented. molded gelatin (jell o et al) salads proliferated because they offered maximum control. "salad greens, which did have to be served raw and crisp, demanded more complicated measures. the object of scientific salad making was to subdue the raw greens until they bore as little resemblance as possible to their natural state. if a plain green salad was called for, the experts tried to avoid simply letting a disorganized pile of leaves drop messily onto the plate...this arduous approach to salad making became an identifying feature of cooking school cookery and the signature of a refined household...american salads traditionally had been a matter of fresh greens, chicken, or lobster, but during the decades at the turn of the century, when urban and suburban middle class was beginning to define itself, salads proliferated magnificently in number and variety until they incorporated nearly every kind of food except bread and pastry...salads that were nothing but a heap of raw ingredients in disarray plainly lacked cultivation, and the cooking experts developed a number of ingenious ways to wrap them up...the tidiest and most thorough way to package a salad was to mold it in gelatin. american cooks were already accustomed to making fruit and wine jellies, or serving a decorative main dish such as boned turkey in apsic, and for these preparations they used either commercial gelatin or a homemade calf's foot jelly. the former, while more convenient, was available only shredded or in sheets, and needed to soak half an hour or longer before it was ready to use. in 1893 sarah tyson rorer wrote to the knox company suggesting that they produce their gelatin in granulated form, which would be easier to measure and would dissolved more quickly. a year later knox began advertising a "sparkling granulated gelatin," and offering to send upon rquest a copy of the recipe booklet "dainty desserts for dainty people." other manufacturers quickly imitated the innovation., and within the decade flavored granulated gelatines had been introduced as well. at first the new product was used much as the old shredded gealtins had been  to make puddings, mousses, charlotets, and jellies, as well as the occasional main dish, or tomato aspic  but the possibiltiies for the salad making soon became evident. "this is dainty for company," suggested a contributor to new england kitchen magazine, and gave directions for a cheese salad that she made by adding graunalted gelatin to a boiled dressing, then folding in whipped cream and grated cheese, and molding the mixture in egg cups for individual services."    perfection salad: women and cooking at the turn of the century, laura shapiro [north point press:new york] 1986 (p. 96 99) "in 1905, charles knox ran a recipe contest that launched the age of the molded salad. mrs. john cooke of new castle, pennsylvania, submitted her recipe for perfection salad, a tart gelatin mold strews with bits of cabbage, celery, and sweet red pepper, which the judges  fannie farmer among them  awarded third prize...knox printed the recipe in its next recipe booklet and continuted to offer it in subsequesnt pamphlets printed throughout the twentieth century, updating it now and then to suit the times. perfection salad inspired cooks as few recipes have. and the rise of jell o at approximately the same time, the proliferation of its fruity flavors, and the industry of its advertising staff in "papering" the country with jell o recipes fueled the molded salad boom. soon every woman had her particular favorites...only in the late 60s did molded salads fall from favor and then mostly in sophisticated metropolitan areas where chefs were beginning to experiment with composed salads and an exotic new palette of greens."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean andrewson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 284 5) [note: this book reprints the original entry recipe and letter submitted by mrs. cooke (p. 286).] [1944] perfection salad, u.s. navy (portioned for 100 men) [1947] "perfection salad 1/3 c. dilute vinegar 1 1/3 c. boiling water 3/4 teaspoon salt 1/3 c. sugar 1 1/3 tb. gelatine 1/3 c. cold water juice of 1 lemon 2/3 c. cabbage, shredded finely 1 1/2 c. celery, diced 1/8 c. sweet red pepper 1. mix boiling water, vinegar, salt and sugar; heat to boiling point. 2. soften gelatine in cold water; dissolve in boiling liquid. 3. add lemon juice; strain, chill, stirring occasionally. 4. when slightly thickened, add vegetables. 5. turn into moistened moulds; chill. note.  the jelly mixture of this salad may be used for moulding other vegetables, as asparagus and pimiento, beets and celery, carrots and peas. vegetable stock may be used as part of the liquid in the jelly."    the canadian cookbook, nellie lyle pattinson, revised and enlarged edition [ryerson press:toronto] 1947 (p. 205) [1962] perfection salad, knox on camera recipes arnold shircliffe, executive chef of chicago's legendary edgewater beach hotel, traced the origin of the potato salad to the 16th century. these are his notes: "early potato salad: john gerrard in 1597 writes about potatoes and their virtues and said that "they are sometimes boiled and sopped in wine, by others boiled with prunes, and likewise others dress them (after roasting them in the ashes) in oil, vinegar and salt, every man according to his own taste. however they be dressed, they comfort, nourish and strengthen the body." this is one of the first potato salads mentioned in any book."    edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1928 (p. 231) potato salad type recipes were introduced to america by european settlers, who again adapted traditional foods to local ingredients. this accounts for regional potato salad variations in the united states. potato salad, as we know it today, became popular in the second half of the 19th century. cold potato salads evolved from british and french recipes. warm potato salads followed the german preference for hot vinegar and bacon dressings served over vegetables. print evidence confirms recipes for potato salads were often included in 19th century american cooking texts. these recipes had many different names. the cassells dictionary of cookery [london:1875?] contains three recipes for potato salad, one without notes [presumably british or american], a french recipe and a german recipe.the french recipe is very similar to the first and is also served cold. the german recipe required bacon. early cold potato salad recipes often called for "french dressing" (our notes on french dressing here ). some recipes specifically indicate this is an economy dish, "a good way to dispose of leftover potatoes." during the 1940s mayonnaise began to supplant french dressing as the congealer of choice. it is interesting to note that during both world wars recipes for german style potato salad did not bear that country's moniker. they were simply listed as "hot potato salad." this is what the food writers have to say: "potato salad. a cold or hot side dish made with potatoes, mayonnaise, and seasonings. it became very popular in the second half of the nineteenth century and is a staple of both home and food store kitchens. hot potato salad, usually made with bacon, onion, and vinegar dressing, was associated with german immigrants and therefore often called "german potato salad."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 253) "there seems to be no dogma concerning the origins of potato salad, but germany is a good place to begin. as a country with lots of potatoes and lots of recipes for potatoes, germany almost certainly was among the first to look at cooked small new potatoes or cut chunks of larger spuds and imagine them blanketed with dressing. the dressing they came up with was a classic. kin to the heated dressing used to wilt spinach salad, this one thrilled german taste buds, raised as they were on sauerkraut and sauerbraten with vinegar bite. some versions featured a little coarse mustard, others cut the sour with a little sugar, and most added bacon and even its flavorful drippings. by the time the notion of potato salad reached france, vinegar wasn't quite good enough. the french demanded full scale vinaigrette, and it was no sweat to satisfy their demands. whenever you see something called "french potato salad," it's a safe bet you're in for potatoes (and probably other vegetables, too) in a light vinaigrette, with dijon mustard and sweet tarragon. when potato salad caught on in the united states, in the second half of the 19th century, it was probably by way of german immigrants. to this day, most people who know how to cook, or at least know how to eat, understand that "german potato salad" will be served warm, will feature no mayonnaise, and will be pleasantly tart with vinegar.the american idea of making potato salad with mayonnaise has no recorded history   but then again, neither does the idea of mayonnaise itself. clearly a sauce created in france using egg yolks, oil and either lemon juice or vinegar, little is clear after that. virtually every french bible of cuisine explains the name differently, ranging from a link to "magon," the carthaginian general who helped his brother hannibal battle the romans," to a possible misspelling of "bayonnaise," hailing from the town of bayonne in france   and later, less romantically, new jersey. however it got the name, mayonnaise became the favored dressing for american potato salad for more "there seems to be no dogma concerning the origins of potato salad, but germany is a good place to begin. as a country with lots of potatoes and lots of recipes for potatoes, germany almost certainly was among the first to look at cooked small new potatoes or cut chunks of larger spuds and imagine them blanketed with dressing. the dressing they came up with was a classic. kin to the heated dressing used to wilt spinach salad, this one thrilled german taste buds, raised as they were on sauerkraut and sauerbraten with vinegar bite. some versions featured a little coarse mustard, others cut the sour with a little sugar, and most added bacon and even its flavorful drippings. by the time the notion of potato salad reached france, vinegar wasn't quite good enough. the french demanded full scale vinaigrette, and it was no sweat to satisfy their demands. whenever you see something called "french potato salad," it's a safe bet you're in for potatoes (and probably other vegetables, too) in a light vinaigrette, with dijon mustard and sweet tarragon. when potato salad caught on in the united states, in the second half of the 19th century, it was probably by way of german immigrants. to this day, most people who know how to cook, or at least know how to eat, understand that "german potato salad" will be served warm, will feature no mayonnaise, and will be pleasantly tart with vinegar.the american idea of making potato salad with mayonnaise has no recorded history   but then again, neither does the idea of mayonnaise itself. clearly a sauce created in france using egg yolks, oil and either lemon juice or vinegar, little is clear after that. virtually every french bible of cuisine explains the name differently, ranging from a link to "magon," the carthaginian general who helped his brother hannibal battle the romans," to a possible misspelling of "bayonnaise," hailing from the town of bayonne in france   and later, less romantically, new jersey. however it got the name, mayonnaise became the favored dressing for american potato salad for more than a century. its sweet, creamy mouthfeel served up just the right delight when wrapped around solid, dependable american potatoes."    "a world of potato salads; labor day tradition gets global makeover," john demers, the houston chronicle, august 29, 2001 (food: p. 1) "despite its popularity in this country, potato salad is not an all american creation. potato salad is said to be of teutonic origin, prepared when boiled potatoes were tossed with oil, vinegar and seasonings, a dish known now as german potato salad. the french, norwegians, swedes, russians and italians all have their own versions. germans make a marvelous warm potato salad to which they add tiny bits of fresh tomato and red and green bell peppers, then toss the whole concoction with a warm bacon and onion dressing. the greeks also prefer warm potato salad, with garlic, olive oil and lemon. italian potato salad is apt to have ample amounts of fresh parsley, often chunks of salami and is dressed with an olive oil and vinegar dressing. american potato salad is heavier and heartier than european versions. some people like lots of additions such as onion, sweet pickles, celery, hard cooked eggs, pimento, chives, olives and parsley."    "potato salad revisited," st. louis post dispatch, august 28, 1989 (food p. 1) sample recipes: [1863] "the same [potatoes], in salad cook them [potatoes] without water in an oven, or hot cinders, if handy; then peel and cut them in thin slices; place them in a salad dish, season with chopped parsley, sweet oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, and serve. you may used butter instead of oil if you serve warm; you may also add slices of beets, and of pickled cucumbers, according to taste."    what to eat and how to cook it, pierre blot [appleton and company:new york] (p. 194) [1878] "potato salad. when materials for a salad are scarce, this is a good way of disposing of cold potatoes. slice them, and dress them with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, precisely like any other salad; adding a little chives, or an onion, and parsley chopped fine. if oil is not agreeable, use cream or a little melted butter."    jennie june's american cookery book, mrs. j. s. croly [excelsior publishing:new york] 1878 (p. 122) [1884] " potato salad (cold) french & boiled dressings    boston cooking school cook book, mrs. d.a. lincoln [page through site for complete recipes] [1908] "potato salad the best potato salad is made from waxy yellow potatoes, cooked with their jackets on, the peeled, cut up while still warm and dressed before they become cold. put the potatoes into a salad bowl, then pour over them a little hot water, or, better still, a little hot broth from the soup kettle. season it at once with salt, pepper, and for every teaspoonful vinegar use four spoonfuls olive oil. add as you like chopped onion, parsley, chives or celery, toss without breaking the potatoes, then set in the ice box to chill. when ready to serve put into individual lettuce leaves or a salad bowl lined with lettuce, and on top put a spoonful of boiled dressing as a garnish."    new york evening telegram cook book, emma paddock telford (p. 98) [note: this book does not contain a recipe for titled "boiled dressing." it includes a recipe for cooked salad dressing which is boiled (p. 93). indgredients are: egg yolks, dry mustard, salt, butter, hot vinegar, and cream. this dressing is to be stored in a cool place. no suggestions regarding serving temperature. a separate recipe for mayonnaise appears on page 94. [1946] "potato salad with mayonnaise boil in their jackets in a covered saucepan until they are tender: potatoes chill them for several hours, peel and slice them. marinate them well with: french dressing soup stock or canned boullion. chop or slice and add: hard cooked eggs onions olives pickles celery cucumbers capers season the salad well with: salt paprika a few grains of cayenne horseradish (optional) after 1 hour or more add: mayonnaise dressing, boiled salad dressing or sour cream or cream."    the joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer [bobbs merrill:indianapolis] 1946 (p. 407) recommended reading: the potato: how the humble spud rescued the western world, larry zukerman [north point press:new york] 1998. taco salad taco salad is a modern variation on the traditional tex mex dish. these recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks/magazines in the 1960s. "taco salad. this salad arrived with the tex mex fast food franchises, which began to pepper the country in the 60s...the man who whetted our appetite for "hot and spicy" was glen bell, who opened the first "taco bell" in downey, california. that was 1962. did taco bell originate the taco salad? i've been unable to proved it did. or didn't. the first recipe i could find for taco salad appeared in the may 1968 issue of sunset."    american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 305) here is the recipe from sunset magazine, may 1968, p. 167 "taco salad ingredients: 1 lb lean ground beef 1/4 c. finely chopped onion 1/2 tsp salt 2 tsp chili pepper 1 can (8oz) can tomato sauce 1 medium head iceberg lettuce 1/2 c shredded cheddar cheese 2 medium sized tomatoes, peeled and cut in wedges 1 avocado, peeled and sliced 1 and 1/2 c. corn chips or tortilla chips fry meat and onion over medium high heat; stir until the meat is crumbly and has lost its pinkness and the onion is tender. about 7 minutes. stir in the salt, chili powder and tomato sauce; keep hot. shred the lettuce and arrange on individual salad plates. top each with the meat mixture and sprinkle with cheese. arrange on each salad tomato wedges and avocado slices, if used. place corn chips around edges of salads and serve immediately. makes 4 servings. ar, alhambra, ca if you like more hotly seasoned mexican foods, you might add chopped canned green chilis or liquid hot pepper seasoning to taste; stir into the meat mixture with the tomato sauce." related dishes? seven layer taco dip & taco soup. tossed salad when and where did tossed or mixed salad begin? excellent question. the answer depends (in part) on how you define tossed greens/mixed salad. food historians tell us rudimentary mixed (several types of greens) salads were known to neolithic peoples. salads composed of fresh mixed greens dressed in vinegar and spices were enjoyed by ancient romans. this culinary tradition survived from european medieval times to the very end of the 19th century. some cuisines preferred warm salads, others, cold. in the late 19th century (usa) the domestic science/home economics movement took hold. they considered tossed plates of mixed greens "messy" and eschewed them in favor of "orderly presentations." salad ingredients were painstakingly separated, organized, and "glued together" with mayonnaise or gelatin. molded gelatin salads proliferated because they offered maximum control. enter: tossed salad our survey of american cookbooks and newspapers confirms mixed, tossed salads regained popularity in the 1930s. home economists promoted fresh vegetables as important (inexpensive) dietary supplement during the great depression. coincidentally? this is when atrfully crafted large wooden salad bowls were introduced. overnight? tossing salad in front of company became trendy. wooden salad bowls remain popular today. [1934] "a salad bowl salad don't always hide the secrets of your salad making within the four walls of your kitchen. sometimes carry all the "fixins" right to the table in a big roomy wooden or china bowl or even a gay kitchen mixing bowl and toss and serve there. to the greens in the salad bowl  a mixture of them is always nice  you may add rosy red radishes, whole or in slices; crisp cucumber, thinly sliced; tender young scallions; asparagus, cooked, chilled and cut in suitable pieces; thin green pepper rings; crisp celery; ripe, green or stuffed olives; or tomatoes, cubed or sliced. a lone strip of cold bacon may be cut in small pieces and added. and toss in that one cold potato, cut in cubes, or the spoonful of peas or string beans, or the one remaining stalk of asparagus. slices of hard cooked egg or pieces of cold meat, chicken or fish, contribute to a hearty salad too. and cheese either cubed, sliced or broken in pieces is always a welcome addition to the salad bowl. the mellow flavor of avocado adds much to the fruit salad look especially when raw strawberries, halves of cooked prunes, sections of orange, pineapple or grapefruit, fresh or canned are combined with it! and don't froget the grapes. such combinations as the above tossed and turned in a well seasoned french or mayonnaise dressing make a salad fit for the gods. and don't forget to cut a peeled bud of garlic rubbed on the inside of your salad bowl or dropped into your french dressing for a short time is a favorite seasoning to many."    good housekeeping cook book, dorothy b. marsh et al [good housekeeping:new york] 2nd edition, 1934 (p. 60) tuna salad culinary evidence (old cookbooks, menus etc.) confirms meat (ham) and mayonnaise type salads were popular in america from colonial times present. these were culinary traditions brought to our shores by european (esp. german) settlers. lobster and chicken salads were most common and extremely popular in the mid late 19th century. tuna salad is an early twentieth century recipe. why? because canned tuna was first introduced and mass marketed to the american public in 1903. american cookbooks in the 1930s and 1940s offer tuna salad recipes as alternatives to salads made from chicken and turkey. one might conclude this fishy substitution was not immediately embraced on its own merits. "tuna salad popular. in california the tuna is beign introduced generallly in the best restaurants, not only because it is new, but becuase people are beginning to value it for what it is. tuna salads are getting to be popular. the housekeeper can prepare the fish in a dozen different ways."    "tuna now popular fish food," christian science monitor, february 19, 1913 (p. 11) here is an early recipe: [1916] tuna fish salad 1 can tuna fish shredded lettuce salt and red pepper to taste 1 tablespoonful vinegar 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice mayonnaise dressing 1 tablespoonful capers 1 hard cooked egg 2 or 3 stuffed olives. line a salad dish with shredded lettuce. break the fish into pieces and place it on top of the lettuce. mix the salt, red pepper, lemon juice, and vinegar toghether and pour over the fish. chill, and when ready to serve, decorate with the capers, slices of hard cooked egg, and the stuffed olives. service with mayonnaise dressing. another method.  flake one can of tuna fish with a silver fork, add one and one half cupful of diced celery and one half cupful of broken english walnut meats, mix with mayonnaise  or boiled dressing. serve on crisp lettuce leaves."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion h. neil [1916] (p. 245 6) waldorf salad "waldorf salad...the dish was supposedly created by maitre d'hotel oscar tschirky of the waldorf astoria hotel in new york city, which opened in 1893. by 1896, when tschirky compiled the cook book by 'oscar of the waldorf,' the recipe  given without comment  called for only apples, celery, and mayonnaise, and the salad later became a staple item in most hotel dining rooms and other restaurants. at some point in the next two decades chopped walnuts were added, for they are listed by george rector in the ingredients for the salad in the rector cook book, which appeared in 1928, after which walnuts became standard in the recipe, including the one give in the waldorf astoria cookbook [1981], by ted james and rosalind cole."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 343) "waldorf salad...oscar tschirky...created this salad for a 'society supper' to which 1,500 persons came from boston, baltimore, and philadelphia...for sheila hibben, food editor of the new yorker, his creation was a mixed blessing. she thought his combination of apples and mayonnaise headed american housewives in the wrong direction 'and bred the sorry mixture of sweet salads' that remain very much on the gastronomical scene..."    american food: the gastronomic story, evan jones [vintage:new york] 1981, 2nd ed. (p. 398) "this american classic first was introduced at the old waldorf hotel in new york. oddly, it was an off the cuff creation by the maitre d'hotel, oscar tschirky, rather than an inspiration of the chef."    "apples fill a variety of culinary needs and are available all year long," peter kump, chicago tribune, february 15, 1990, 11a the original recipe waldorf salad peel two raw apples and cut them into small pieces, say about half and inch square, also cut some celery the same way, and mix it with the apple. be very careful not to let any seeds of the apples be mixed with it. the salad must be dressed with a good mayonnaise.    the cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, oscar tschirky [saafield publishing company:chicago] 1908 , copyright 1896 (p. 433) watergate salad & cake pistachios have been enjoyed since the beginning of time. they have generally considered luxury items. in the 20th century, technological advances made them more accessible to home cooks. culinary evidence confirms these nuts were most often used to flavor ice creams and parfaits. they were also sometimes used in pates, salads (toppings, molded in combination with other ingredients gelatine), baked goods, and candy. notes on pistachios and their use in cookery here. although salads and cakes made flavored with pistachios date back to the early 20th century, culinary evidence connects the recipes we know today as watergate salad and watergate cake to the kraft company, dating from the mid 1970s. why the kraft connection? both recipes use pistachio instant pudding mix, which was introduced by kraft foods in 1975. why watergate? the answer seems obvious to everyone who knows a little about american political events during that time period. interestingly enough, it has yet to be confirmed. the kraft does not take credit for the name. in fact? no one does. we do know that in 1973 two tongue in cheek "watergate" cookbooks were published: the watergate cookbook, n.y. alplaus [emporium publications:charlestown ma] and the watergate cookbook (or, who's in the soup?), the commitee to write the cookbook [new lone star press:cambridge ma]. these were apparently inpired by tom donnelly's article "serve hot, the county the silver," published earlier that year in the washington post. neither of these books, nor donnelley's article, contain recipes for watergate salad or watergate cake. "we developed the recipe for pistachio pineapple delight," says pat risso of kraft corporate affairs. "it was in 1975, the same year that pistachio pudding mix came out."the company, however, didn't suggest serving the dessert as a salad or change the name. as a matter of fact, the company didn't refer to it at all as watergate salad until consumers started requesting a recipe for watergate salad. the answer from an e mail query to http://www.kraftfoods.com got a little warmer. "according to kraft kitchens, when the recipe for pistachio pineapple delight was sent out, a chicago food editor renamed it watergate salad to promote interest in the recipe when she printed it in her column," the response came back. a call to carol haddix, food editor of the chicago tribune, got a quick response. "never heard of it," she said. a half dozen calls to former chicago food editors, publicists and retired kraft kitchens personnel also hit dead ends."    the proof is in the pudding; crashing watergate, louis mahoney; the richmond times dispatch, august 4, 1999 (p. f 1) watergate salad was reportedly named by a chicago food editor for an article, but neither the article nor editor has been tracked down. the full name of the cake is watergate cake with coverup icing."    trivia, rogers cadenhead, knight ridder newspapers, the record (bergen county, nj) march 15, 2000 "new flavors in 1976 were americana rice pudding and pistachio instant pudding. popular recipes were pudding in a cloud and, in 1981, watergate salad (pistachio and pineapple)." the history of jell o, kraft food company."    from kraft's old web site (not included in current pages) watergate salad of course, very few recipes are *invented* overnight. they are usually variations on popular food that have beens served for years. "pistachio nut  a native of central asia and member of the cashew family, the pistachio nut...has been cultivated for some 3,000 years and has a long history of popularity in the mediterranean world. but it was not until the 1930s with the advent of vending machines, that pistachio nuts (also called pistache) imported from italy became something of a rage in the united states as a snack food."    the cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas, volume 2, (p.1835) "it was in 1929 that american plant scientist william e. whitehouse spent a lonely six months in persia (modern day iran), collecting seed and sifting through piles of produce to find the most distinctive pistachios. he returned carrying a burlap sack 20 pounds heavy with seed." california pistachio commission "[1901] dole's company becomes hawaiian pineapple company and is incorporated in this year. james dole becomes known as "the pineapple king," because he was able to successfully grow and harvest this crop that had failed so many others. his company puts canned pineapple in every grocery store in the country and makes the name "hawaiian" almost synonymous with "pineapple." dole company molded salads combining all sorts of ingredients (especially mini marshmallows) were all the rage in the 1920s. the history of jell 0. jell o instant puddings were test marketed in 1950. the oldest recipe we found specifically titled "watergate salad" is this: [1975] "watergate salad 1 (20 ounce) can crushed pineapple (undrained) 1 box instant pistachio pudding mix 1 1/2 cups small marshmallows 1 (9 ounce) box whipped topping mix 1 cup or less walnuts or pecans mix undrained pineapple with pudding by pouring pudding into pineapple. stir. add rest of ingredients. stir by hand. chill before serving. c.k."    "anne's reader exchange," washington post, november 13, 1975 (p. c17) watergate cake "a new watergate crisis is sweeping the washington area, but this time only homemakers and a few business men seem to care... the crisis stems from the growing popularity of a recipe for a concoction called "watergate cake," which demands large quantities of powdered pistachio pudding mix, both in the layer cake and in its light green icing. apparently, only one firm, royal pudding, a division of standard brands, inc., distributes pistachio pudding in the washington area. supermarkets haven't been able to get engouh to cope with the demands, which began around thanksgiving time and was very heavy at christmas. store shelves have been regularly stripped of the mix the same day it is displayed...if the sales spurt is not directly attributable to the popularity of watergate cake... "the we don't knoe why this product has suddenly taken off. it's been just phenomenal..." barry scher, a spokesman for giant foods, placed the blame not only on the recipe, but also on a coincidental shortage of pistachio nuts. "that was about five months abo, the spokesman said, "and as it ended, this recipe began circulating around. we were bombarded. we hate to admit it, but we just can't keep the mix on the shelf. the onset of watergate cake mania  and the resulting effort to close the supply demand gap   has tested old friendships and challenged the ingenuity and competitive instincts of many a washington area homemaking... no one, meanwhile, seems able to pinpoint the origin of this watergate, the recipe for which has appeared in a number of newspapers, including the washington post. nor can anyone explain how the cake got its name or why pistachio is the main flavoring. one current explanation leans on the presence of crushed walnuts in the cake  "bugs" in the parlance of kids. like the giant spokesman, harold giesinger, proprietor of the watergate pastry shop, had no thoughts on where the recipe originated   except that it was not with his bakery. "we haven't invented anything to which we'd attach a name like that," he said. nor, he added, does his shop rely on pistachio as a key ingredient in any of its products. "a private source may have put it together, " he said of the recipe. wherever watergate cake started, the pudding firm would like more more problems like it. gagan suspects some people have been buying more pistachio pudding mix than they'll ever use, simply becuase it's hard to get...further relief is in sight. another manufacturer, general foods, scanning the watergate assisted pistachio market, has decided to jump in. its version is expected to hit the supermarket shelves in march..."    "a watergate cake mania," alexander sullivan, washington post, february 26, 1976 (p. b2) [recipe included, see below 1976] "according to my sister in law who lives in waynesboro, virginia, the name of the cake became prominent in that part of the country because  nixon liked pistachio nuts, hence (and a rather far fetched reasoning) the name for the watergate cake, because synonymous with  pistachio nuts, mrs. nixon and watergate. i had neither heard of pistachio pudding or the watergate cake until last fall we stopped to visit them, and she had the cake all ready for us to eat. however, her recipe is much different than the one printed in the washington post thursday in your column. sincerely yours, virginia k. wiszneauckas, wheaton, md."    "that cake," washington post, march 11, 1976 (p. va2) the earliest recipe we find for pistachio cake also employs a packaged cake mix. note! this is "mock pistachio"! [1962] pistachio almond into [angel food mix] cake batter, fold a few drops green food color, 1/4 teasp. almond extract, 3/4 minced, blanched almonds."    good housekeeping cook book, dorothy b. marsh [good housekeeping:new york] 1962 (p. 457) compare with these: [1975] "watergate cake 1 box white cake mix 1 box pistachio instant pudding 1 cup vegetable oil 1 cup club soda 3 eggs 1/2 cup chopped walnuts mix all ingredients well (4 to 4 minutes). bake in 12 by 9 inch greased pan for 45 minutes at 350 degrees. topping for cake 1 box pistachio instant pudding 1/4 cup cold milk 1 (9 ounce) box whipped topping mix nut meats and maraschino cherries beat milk into instant pudding mix. prepare topping mix according to instructions on box. fold into pudding mixture. spread oncake and top with nuts and cherries. c.s.r. arlington."    "anne's reader exchange," washington post, november 13, 1975 (p. c17) [1976] watergate cake 1 (3 1/2 ounce) box instant pistachio pudding 1 box white cake mix (any brand) 1 cup vegetable oil 1/2 cup walnuts 1 cup ginger ale 3 eggs mix together  any order bake at 350 degrees  30 to 40 minutes. it isn't necessary to grease the pan. icing one large or two small containers frozen whipped topping 1 box instant pistachio pudding 1 1/2 cups milk mix together until smooth. top off with nuts, coconuts or cherries. lovely to look at and very moist."    "a watergate cake mania," alexander sullivan, washington post, february 26, 1976 (p. b2) [1976] "here is a fantastic cake recipe that i like to prepare for special occasions," writes nels wenman. "it was sent to me by a cousin in arizona." watergate cake with cover up icing 1 (18 1/2 ounce) package white cake mix 1 (3 1/2 ounce) package instant pistachio pudding mix 3 eggs, unbeaten 3/4 cup oil 1 cup lemon lime carbonated beverage cover up icing 3/4 cup shredded coconut 1 cup finely chopped pecans combine cake mix, pudding mix, eggs, oil and lemon lime in a bowl. beat until well blended. pour into a greased and floured 13x9 inch pan and bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes. cool. spread with cover up icing and sprinkle with coconut and pecans. cover up icing 2 (1 1/2 ounce) envelopes nondairy whipped topping mix 1 1/2 cups milk 1 (3 1/2 ounce) package instant pistachio pudding mix beat whipped topping mix, milk and pudding mix together until smooth and thick."    "my best recipe," los angeles times, june 17, 1976 (p. h6) where do pistachios come from? "pistachio, pistacia vera, a small tree native to parts of west asia and the levant between turkey and afghanistan, bears nuts which have for long been highly prized. the earliest traces of pistachios being eaten in turkey and the middle east date back to about 7000bc; and the species has been cultivated and improved during serveral millenia...pistachio trees were introduced from asia to europe in the 1st century ad, by the romans."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 610) "pistachio...the word originated in persian as pistah, and reached the west via greek pistakion. english originally borrowed it from french as pistace."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 258) "pistachio nut. a native of central asia and member of the cashew family, the pistachio nut has been cultivated for some 3,000 years and has a long history of popularity in the mediterranean world. but it was not until the 1930s, with the advent of vending machines, that pistachio nuts (also called pistache) imported from italy became something of a rage in the united states as a snack food...following world war ii, the evergreen trees that bear pistachios were imported to california, and although the imported nuts are still dyed, most american grown pistachios are sold without dye, in naturally tan shells."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000 volume 2 (p. 1835) "the dying of pistachios is not a middle eastern tradition but is said to have originated with a brooklyn street vendor named zaloom who colored his pistachios red to distinguish them from his competitors. the idea caught on  especially in the east  that most pistachios used to be dyed red. this is no longer true, with only about 15 percent of those sold today so colored."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 243) pistachio cookery "this pistachio, with its unique color and mild but distinctive flavour, has always been a luxury, costing three or four times as much as other nuts. it is generally eaten roasted and salted as a dessert nut. in cooking it is often used as a garnish or decoration, both in sweet and savory dishes. for example, it figures in in some of the finest pilaf dishes and in european pates and brawns which are served in slices, so that the nuts appear as attractive green specs or slivers."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 610) "in mediterranean and oriental cooking, pistachios are used in poultry sauces and stuffings and also in hash. in classic cuisine they garnish galantines, brawn (head cheese) and mortadella. in india pistachio puree is used to season rice and vegetables. pistachios go best with veal, pork and poultry. their green color (often accentuated artificially) makes them popular for creams (especially for filling cakes, such as the galacien) and for ice creams and ice cream desserts. in confectionery it is especially associated with nougat."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 900) lettuce arugula & rocket...chicory...iceberg lettuce... lamb's lettuce...romaine lettuce...water cress the food historians and linguists tell us lettuce was [most likely] first cultivated by the ancient greeks, possibly as early as the 6th century bc. there is some controversy regarding the date because there were several ancient plants fitting the description of lettuce at that time. "wild lettuce was gathered for millennia by hunter gatherers and was still being gathered by humans at the time of the ancient greeks. the latter probably began its cultivation, which was continued by the roman. the first cultivated letuuce was lactuca serriola, which is native to the mediterranean region."    the cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1801) "the ancient greeks and romans cultivated the lettuce, especially as a salad. in the east its cultivation possible dates from an earlier epoch. nevertheless it does not appear, from the original common names both in asia and europe, that this plant was generally or very anciently cultivated. there is no sanskrit nor hebrew name known, nor any in the reconstructed aryan tongue. a greek name exists, tridax; latin, latuca; persian and hindu, kahn; and the analogous arabic form chuss or chass. the latin form exists also, slightly modified, in the slav and germanic languages, which may indicate either that the western aryans diffused the plant, or that its cultivation spread with its name at a later date from the south to the north of europe. dr. bretscheider has confirmed by supposition that the lettus is not very ancient in china, and that it was introduced there from the west. he says that the first work in which it is mentioned dates from a.d. 600 to a.d. 900."    origin of cultivated plants, alphonse de candole [hafner publishing company:new york] 1964 (p. 96) "other new roman arrivals [to britain] were the garden varieties of a number of green vegetables, among them cabbage, beet, mallows, orache (atriplex), lettuce and endive..."    food and drink in britain from the stone age to the 19th century, c. anne wilson [academy broadway:chicago il] 1991 (p. 195) "lettuce..was introduced to britain by the romans, who commonly ate it cooked rather than raw. this tradition continued into and beyond the middle ages...but by the seventeeth century the memory of it was dying out (john eveyln...in his aceteria is extravagant in his praise of lettuce as a raw salad vegetable, but of cooked lettuce he notes only as an afterthought."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 189) lettuce in america "england had cultivated lettuce as of the fifteenth century, but christopher columbus may have been the first to bring it to america. lettuce was grown only in home gardens until the twentienth century, when americans' new appetite for salad made commercial production profitable."    encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 183) "both leaf and head lettuces were commonly grown in colonial and early american times. lettuce was highly perishable and was available only locally in season. however, lettuce became more readily availble in the twentieth century with the development of crisphead lettuce (iceberg is the most familiar). with sturdy leaves forming a compact, round head, these lettuces can be transported over long distances without damage. distributed by railroad from california and arizona, lettuce becmae an important year round food in america. during the 1920s and 1930s its production doubled."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 32) romaine lettuce salads made with romaine lettuce (also known as cos lettuce) were known in the united states by 1880s. romaine was used as both base and in combination with other leafy greens. our cookbooks do not specify this type of lettuce but the recipes below do. of course, this is not a definate indicator that romaine was enjoyed by all classes of people in all parts of the country. we can presume romaine was appreciated by the wealthy based on its appearance on a menu served at the harvard club's dinner in 1895 (nyt, february 22, 1895, p. 3). note: this romaine and lettuce salad was served in the classic european fashion, towards the end of the meal, just before the dessert course. [1877] "salad a la romaine. freshen two heads of lettuce in plenty of cold water. when about to serve mix in a bowl three tablespoonfuls of oil, one of lemon juice, one third of a small onion grated, inch of cayenne, white pepper and salt to taste, and a small pinch of powdered sugar: break the lettuce into the bowl; well mix, turn into the salatiere, garnish with hard boiled eggs, and serve."    "receipts for the table," new york times, january 28, 1877 (p. 9) [note: this recipe does not specify the type of lettuce to be used. "heads" imply standard usa lettuce, not the more leafy romaine.] [1886] "there is another kind [of lettuce], high in favor in paris and in some localities in this country for its tenderness and delicate flavor, but not liked by marketmen, because it will not bear rough handling. the time will come, however, when there will be such a demand for this species that all first class provision dealers will keep it. the french call it romaine, and in this country it is sometimes called roman lettuce. it does not head. the leaves are strng and not handsome whole; but one who uses the lettuce never wishes for any other."    miss parloa's new cook book, a guide to marketing and cooking, maria parloa [estes and lauriat::boston ma] 1886 (p. 52) arugula & rocket arugula (aka rocket) is an "old world" cruciferous plant. the leaves have been used for centuries in salads. they have a tangy, mustardy flavor, which makes the salad interesting in flavor and texture. americans "discovered" this tasty green in the 1990s. "the rocket is a eurasian plant with spicily hot tasting dandelion shaped leaves that are used in salads. it has become much more widely known in britain following the salad revolution of the late twentieth century. the name rocket comes via french roquette from italian ruchetta, a diminutive form of ruca, which in turn comes from latin eurca. this meant literally caterpillar', and was applied to the plant because of its hairy stems. it may have been derived from er, hedgehog'."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 284) "rocket, eruca sativa, a plant which grows wild in asia and the mediterranean region, has been introduced elsewhere, including n. america (where it is known by its italian name, arugula), and cultivated for use as a salad plant. its flavour, akin to that of horseradish or some sorts of cress, is strong in mature leaves, so these are added to salads with discretion. young leaves may be used freely. their popularity as a smart ingredient in western restaurants may obscure then fact that they are grown and liked in some places, e.g. the north of sudan...in classical rome the plant was cultivated both for its leaves and for its seeds, used as a flavouring. the seeds can also be used to produce and oil."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 667) "arugula also known as "rocket" and "garden rocket," this native of europe and western asia...is a cruciferous plant that has long provided tender, slightly bitter, mustard flavoured greens for the salad bowls of southern europeans and italian americans. lately, it has become widely available in the united states, where it has been naturalized. its leaves resemble those of the radish, which is a close relative. the seeds of arugula are also eaten, and they yield an oil that is used for culinary puroses, as a lubricant, and in medicines."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenlas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1722) "rocket, salad vegetable, one of the best native mediterranean species. rocket was grown in classical greek kitchen gardens and was equally familiar to romans. apart from the use of the leaf, rocket seed is called for as a culinary spice in apicus. rocket had an enduring reputation among aphrodesiacs...because of this reputation rocket was often served at dinners mixed with lettuce, an antaphrodesiac, so that their qualities would conteract one another."    food in the ancient world from a to z, andrew dalby [routledge:london] 2003 (p. 282) arugula & rocket in the usa based on the number of print newspaper references per decade "arugula" gained marked interest in the 1990s and became popular in the 2000s. the plant was known, but not particularly favored, from colonial times forward. presumably, this accounts for the dearth of references & recipes. [1911] "rocket: a rather coarse garden plant whose young leaves are occasionally used as a pot herb or for salads. the flowers resemble orange blossoms in odor."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [national grocer:new york] 1911 (p. 532) [1919] "b. vulgaris...rocket. winter cress. yellow rocket. europe and temperate asia. this herb of northern climates have been cultivated in england for a long time and as an early salad and also in scotland, where the bitter leaves are eaten by some. in early times, rocket was held in some repute but is now banished from cultivation yet appears in gardens as a weed...rocket is included in the list of american garden esculents by mcmahon in 1806. in 1832, bridgeman says winter cress is used as a salad in spring and autumn and by some boiled as a spinage."    sturtevant's notes onf edible plants, edited by u.p. hedrick, report of the new york agricultural experiment station for the year 1919 ii [j.b. lyon company:albany ny] 1919 (p. 82) [138] "roquette. this is a salad vegetable resembling cress in taste. it is served as a salad in the same manner, and is very popular with the creoles."    the original picayune creole cook book, 9th edition [times picayune publishing co.:new orleans la] 1938 227) [1960] "it would seem almost impossible that the most appealing and relatively abundant salad green could be available in new york and yet be relatively unknown. but there is one, and it leads to the suspicion that there may be more. the one in question has more names than joseph's coat has colors. the fact of the matter is that this green with the pungent and fascinatinf flavor goes by different names from one market to the next. ask italian green grocers for arugula, rucola or ruccoli; ask other markets for rouquette, rocket salad or, simply, rocket...most italian chefs know...that arugula or rocket...is the secret ingredient in many of their salads about town. considering the public unawareness of the plant, it has an astonishing availability...new york does not have a corner on the vegetable's availability in the united states. rocket salad is tremendously popular in the creole country of louisiana."    "food news: a green by any name," craig claiborne, new york times may 24, 1960 (p. 33) chickory salad green, cooked vegetable, and (when times are tough) coffee substitue. "chicory. semantic problems abound with chicory (cichorium intybus)  also called succory, radicchio, and red chicory), endive...and escarole, which is the broad leafed variety of endive. all three are members of the dandelion family, but there the resemblance ends. cichoirum endivia, native to india, was the ancestor of endive and known to the egyptians as well as to the ancient greeks and romans. by contrast, c. indybus is native to europe, but the names nonetheless remain confused. in the united states, chicory is generally called belgian edive, although this is also referred to simply as endive. the french, too, call it endive...and radicchio is chicory's italian name...chicory as well as endive roots are ground to become a natural coffee substitute...or in addition to regular coffee for added flavor and reduced caffeine. however, the tight hearts of belgian endive and radicchio are also attractive and slightly bitter ingredients in salads; in addition, their braised leaves can be a vegetable dish in their own right."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge unviersity press:cambridge] volume two, 2001 (p. 1753) "chicory...decribes a group of perennial cultivated plants developed from wild chicory, a common plant of europe, w. asia, and africa...chicory was used as a vegetable and for salad in classical greece and rome, but was not apparently cultivated. the leaves of the wild plant are not too bitter if gathered young. from the 16th century onwards modern cultivated forms, with larger and less bitter leaves, were developed...the practice of taking up chicory plants in the autumn, cutting off their leaves, and replanting the roots in a dark cellar so that they regrow small, white leaves originated in france. the original french variety called, like the wild plant, barbe de capucin is unusual in that the roots are replanted on their sides in angled banks and the shoots grow horizontally. around 1850 a belgian grower, experimenting with uses for old musroom compost, discovered the superior cigar shaped form witloof...the large rooted variety of chicory which is used as a coffee substitute was developed in holland during the second half of the 18th century, when coffee was newly fashionable and very expensive. all over europe people experimented with substitutes: grains, figs, acorns, and all kinds of root, especially dandelion and chicory. chicory was judged the most acceptable."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 167 8) "chicory can be served raw in salads  with vinaigrette and often with hard boiled (hard cooked) eggs and any of the various ingredients used in winter salads, including beetroot (red beets), apples, nuts, cheese and orange or grapefruit quarters. for cooked dishes, chicory heads are braised and drained; they can then be coated with bechamel sauce, sprinkled with noisette butter, served with gravy or with plain butter and herbs topped with grated cheesse and browned, or made into a puree. they can be served as an accompaniement to roasts and poultry. they can also be braised, made into a chiffanade or prepared as fritters (espsecially when served with fish). as a main dish, chicory is braised rolled in slices of ham and coated with a port and raisin sauce, or stuffed (with a fatty or lean stuffing) and browned on top."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 278) "chicory. american nomenclature is very confusing for this salad green called cichorium intybus, with its curly leaves and bright blue flowers...chicory is quite bitter and is often mixed with other salad greens. the same plant's roots are dried and ground into a granular powder, often referred to as "succory," that resembles coffee and is used as an additive to or substitute for real coffee in creole and cajun cooking, a legacy of the french influence on these cuisines...adding chicory to coffee began in new orleans during the food scarce civil war."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 73 4) lamb's lettuce (mache, cornsalad) "lamb's lettuce is a small plant of the genus valerianella with soft long roundish leaves eaten raw in salads. it has been known in britain for many centuries (john gerard mentions it in his herbal, 1597), but it was only in the 1980s, whith an increasing interest in exploring a wider range of salad leaves, that it started to become widely available commercially (the french, who call it mache, have always known its worth). the origins of its name, which may be a translation of latin latuca agnina, are not known for certain, but it presumably reflects a supposed partiality of lambs for the leaves. an alternative name, used particuarly for the wild variety, is corn salad, an allusion to the plant's commonly grown in corn fields."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 184) ""cornsalad," so named because these plants with small, bluish flowers grow in cornfields, actully refers to any of several plants of the genus valerianella...these european natives  found throughout north america as well  provide slightly bitter tasting leaves that are much appreciated in salads. the various types of cornsalad were considered weeds until the seventeenth century, when they began to be cultivated, and cultivation doubtless accounts for the different varieties now identified... common names and synonyms: european cornsalads, fat hen, field salad, hog salad, lamb's lettuce, lamb's quarter, mache...marsh salad."    world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2001, volume two (p. 1763) "lamb's lettuce. a plant with rounded leaves in a rosette form, which is usually eaten raw in a salad. it is also known...in france, as mache, doucette, valerianelle potagere, raiponce, and oreielle de lievre. it grows wild in fields, usually in autumn, but is cultivated in france from september to march and gives a good flavour to a winter salad. there are several varieties..."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 668) caesar salad simple, elegant, inexpensive, and famous. what more could a chef ask for? american cookbooks confirm chefs were serving artfully cut lettuce coated in french dressing in fancy restaurants from the late 19th century forwards. what makes caesar salad different? a memorable origination story (or two or three) and documented hollywood flair. "and now we come to it  the most talked of salad of a decade, perhaps of the century. like all recipes that have become widely known, several chefs and restaurateurs have claimed to have originated the salad. actually many of them have had a hand in promoting it, though not necessarily as a caesar. as for its origin, the best guess seems to be that the whole thing started in tia juana, during prohibition, but whether it was actually created by one named 'caesar,' or just named for him, is a matter of considerable discussion. the salad is at its best when kept simple, but as it is invariably made at table, and sometimes by show offs, it occasionally contains far too many ingredients."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile reprint [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308) classic theory of origin: "caesar salad. a salad of romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese, worcestershire sauce, and, often, anchovies. it was created by caesar cardini, an italian immigrant who opened a series of restaurants in tijuana, mexico...on fourth of july weekend in 1924 at caesar's palace, cardini concocted the salad as a main course, arranging the lettuce leaves on a plate with the intention that they would be eaten with their fingers. later cardini shredded the leaves into bite sized pieces. the salad became particularly popular with hollywood movie people who visited tijuana, and it became a featured dish at chasen's and romanoff's in los angeles."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 50 51) [note: most sources cite the restaurant as cesar's (or caesar's) place.] "it was an accident! but now caesar salad is tossed in handsome salad bowls, coast to coast and on purpose! a well known restaurateur, caesar cardini, concocted this zesty salad some 35 years ago at tijuana, mexico. here is the true story, told to us by his daughter rosa. one holiday weekend a throng of tourists descended on caesar's place. a few crates of romaine, half a case of eggs, a wheel of italian cheese, some lemons, and dry bread that was all the food left by sunday morning. what to do for the hungry crowd at dinner? caesar thought he'd have to close shop for the remainder of the holiday. instead he decided to invent a new salad form the ingredients he had on hand. he got out the eggs, the lemons, the parmesan cheese, the bread, and the big bottle of olive oil to which he previously had added garlic. with the romaine lettuce as the only greens, he experimented with a little of this and that in the dressing. finally, to bind the dressing ingredients together, he came up with the idea of coddling the eggs for a minute, then tossing them with the salad. (yes, that's right the original caesar salad was not made with completely raw eggs.) the loaves of bread he cut in tiny cubes and slowly oven toasted them to add to his salad at the very end. (the anchovies, now a familiar ingredient in caesar salad, didn't become part of the recipe until some 10 years later.) while the waiters kibitzed, caesar demonstrated his creation. 'take everything to each table,' he instructed, 'and make a ceremony of fixing the salad. plenty of fanfare. let guests think they're having the specialty of the house.' and the guests did! so rapidly did the news of this remarkable salad spread, that diners flocked to caesar's place just to learn the recipe. soon west coast restaurants adopted it; then it appeared on the finest menus in every state. caesar cardini's reward? in paris at the 1951 meeting of the international society of epicures, his salad was acclaimed the greatest recipe contribution of the united states in 50 years. but it was really at tijuana, mexico that the now world famous caesar salad was born. you'll find many variations of caesar salad, but here rosa cardini, who operates the food specialty shop her father started in los angeles and who bottles the original caesar salad dressing, share his authentic recipe and salad know how."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) story 2: "it has been fairly well established that the late caesar cardini created the caesar salad at hist restaurant in tijuana, mexico. or did he? the latest word is that an italian woman named beatriz santini composed the salad in austria in 1918. hard put for food in a country impovershed by war, she soft boiled eggs, which were plentiful, and added them to a bowl of romaine lettuce. a little parmesan cheese, a dressing of wine vinegar and olive oil, and the creation was complete. cardini never met santini. so how did he come up with the same idea? he didn't, we are told. the link was santini's son, livio, who emigrated to tijuana. livio santini got a job with cardini, who had opened a bar and restaurant on second street about 1924. one day, a hungry santini mixed up a bit of his mother's salad. a wealthy customer from la jolla invaded the kitchen as santini was crunching romaine, and she asked for a taste. it pleased her so that she ordered a serving from cardini, who came out to find what santini was eating. one week later, the salad was on the menu, ceremoniously mixed at table side by a captain and busboy. thus, the start of the cardini legend. the teller of this tale was no tale spinner. it was livio santini himself. now 78, santini was a guest of honor at tijuana's recent first caesar salad celebration."   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) story 3: "sr. alex cardini, of cardini's restaurant in mexico city, affirms that he invented the original caesar salad in 1926, naming it after his brother."    a world of vegetable cookery, alex d. hawkes [simon and schuster:new york] 1968 (p. 138) the anchovy debate: food historians agree anchovies were not part of the original recipe. these salty fillets infiltrate in the 1930s. "cardini was adamant in insisting that the salad be subtly flavored and argued against the inclusion of anchovies, whose faint flavor in his creation he believed may have come from the worcestershire sauce. he also decreed that only italian olive oil and imported parmesan cheese be used."    encyclopedia of american food and drink (p. 51) "according to santini...his mother used no anchovies, no lime or lemon juice and no croutons in her salad...the controversial anchovy, acknowledged by either beatriz santini nor caesar cardini, wound up on several salads.".   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) "the shocking truth is that while a proper caesar always has anchovy, an authentic one never does. in its original form, caesar salad was more a culinary tourist trap than a great american food standard, famous for the tableside show that came with the salad, not the anchovy. yet it is the anchovy that most caesar aficionados consider vital; only caesar wimps ask for their salad sans the small fry. so where did the anchovy come from?...the most common theory involves worcestershire sauce. the thinking is that someone, somewhere along the way...ran out of worcestershire sauce...saw anchovy on the list of ingredients and made the brilliant substitution. 'we can't figure it out,' said rosa cardini, daughter of the salad's inventor...cardini envisioned his a subtle salad, but as rosa pointed out, subtle is exactly what anchovies aren't."   "caesar! origin of the species," laurie ochoa, los angeles times, october 16, 1988 (p. l103) when did ceasar salad become popular in the usa? conventional wisdom places the invention of this salad in the mid 20s. our survey of contemporary sources suggests its was known, but not served, in southern california until a decade later. after wwii descriptions published in trendy journals (think: gourmet) sparked interest. by the mid 1950s everyone who was anyone in the usa knew what a caesar salad was. this coincides with the passing of mr. cardini. "jean harlow, mable hormand and all the stars would come to tijuana and ask for a cesar's salad, [cesar cardini] recalled...but it didn't become famous until 1937 when a screenwriter, manny wolfe, one of my regular customers, went to the house of murphy restaurant here, called for the ingredients and made the salad. the manager, di ciro, called it his salad,. but wolf took the recipe to the brown derby and chasen's and they called it caesar salad."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) "...hollywood's great delicacy, the caesar salad...the caesar salad, which mike romanoff'll let you have at a sacrifice  only 2 bucks  is glorified garlic. it's garlic with glamor he first time i heard of a 2 buck salad, i wanted to render unto caesar what was caesar's  a big loud razberry. they my beautiful wife...pointed out that it was an aristocrat of foods. like stone crabs in miami, oysters rockefeller in new orleans, lobsters in boston, cream cheese and bagels in new york. 'why do they call it caesar salad?' i kept asking. and finally i found it was invented by an italian named caesar cardini in his tijuana restaurant, called caesar's. edmund lowe tasted it there and brought it to hollywood. caeser's ex partner, peter friggerio, formerly at the colony and marguery in new york, is now the captain at henri's here where, of course, you can get a wonderful caesar salad. but confidently, the french born henri de charpentier, who's chef there and used to be at lynbrook, l. i. thinks it's a big mistake to have such a huge glamorous salad before the main course."    "dressing up garlic, early wilson, zanesville times recorder [oh], february 1, 1947 (p. 4) "los angeles revisited a few weeks ago, for the first time in two years, revealed more conclusively than almost anything else that the gastronomic highlight of the current moment is an arrangement called caesar's salad and that its consumption is constant, universal, and something to make the public prints in any fountainhead of good living like gourmet, as it has. caesar's salad, which is only infrequently encountered in restaurants in the east, but which will inevitably arrive in new york one of these fine days, is based on romaine instead of lettuce, chopped up anchovies, a liberal inclusion of heavily garlic flavored croutons, french dressing made slick by the inclusion of a couple of whole raw eggs, and the whole thing liberally showered with grated parmesan. at romanoff's, where we were taken to luncheon by gourmet's own stephen longstreet, with an assortment of local characters which included bob hope, gregory la cava, barbara stanwyck, and hedda hopper at adjacent tables, we were introduced to caesar's salad. at dave chasen's, where we dined that evening with robert hanley, the newly discovered and flourishing decorator of the county strip, we were immediately advised that caesar's salad was the thing to have. the next evening at hansen's scandia restaurant in sunset boulevard, the assembled chivalry to a man commanded caesar's salad, and subsequent skirmishes with the menus at perino's, the vine street brown derby, the garden restaurant of the town house, and other ranking restaurants of the city of angeles evolved the conviction that caesar's salad is as much of a part of the hollywood pattern as swimming pools or the new look."    "along the boulevards," lucius beebe, gourmet, june 1948, [no recipe] accessed online who was cesar cardini? an italian immigrant who wound up in tijuana. obviously savvy, mr. cardini operated a successful restaurant offering trendy cuisine to america's glamoros hollywood stars. he left tijuana in 1935 because mexican regulations against gambling were crushing his business. mr. cardini eventually settled in los angles, running an imported foods store. he cashed in on his claim to fame by selling his dressing. he passed away at the age of 60 in 1956. "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he has lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted. he was born in lago maggiore, italy, worked many european hotels and came to the united states when he was 20. for a time, before going to tijuana, he owned a restaurant in sacramento...he leaves his widow camille, a daughter rosa...two sisters [living in italy] and two brothers, alex and caudencio, who are in the restaurant business in mexico city."    "cesar cardini, creator of salad, dies at 60," los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31) "discouraged by failure of the mexican government to lift the ban on border gambling, caesar cardini has closed his gay tijuana café forever."    "resort owner quits forever," reno evening gazette, july 1, 1936 (p. 2) "caesar now runs an italian grocery store on la ciegna boulevard, movietown's restaurant row. he's regaining his claim to the salad fame by manufacturing his caesar salad dressing in a tiny kitchen behind his store."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) vintage recipes several publications claim they have "the original" recipe. all of them are slightly different. our gastronomic guess says the simpler the recipe, the closer to the original. and? most definatley no anchovies! most probably worcestershire. there are no caesar salad (or approximations) recipes in these trendy southern california publications: corona club cook book [1925], ebell society cook book [1926] or fashions of foods in beverly hills [1931]. the oldest print recipe food historians have identified (based on ingredients & method) was published in sunset (magazine) march, 1945. curiously? it's called "romaine salad." no reference to caesar. the casual reader could easily miss the connection. the caesar dressing appears in the the brown derby cookbook/cobb [1949] but not the salad. we hypothosize this omission may be at testament to the salad's "star power." enjoying a caesar salad was a glamorous public event, complete with live tableside show. sunset cook book/annabel post [1960] mentions the march 1945 recipe but prints the 1957 version (with anchovies, p. 19). [1945] "down in coronado. california, there's a restaurant called la avenida cafe which is known as the 'home of the romaine salad.' small wonder, for the salad which is their specialite de la maison is a dish to tempt the epicure. here's the recipe as given us by s. jack clapp, who is la avenida's authority on such matters. romaine salad 3 or 4 heads chilled, crisp romaine 2 handfuls crisp croutons (little cubes of fried bread) 6 tablespoons garlic oil 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 6 heaping tablespoons greated parmesan type cheese 1 egg juice of 3 lemons break the romaine in to a salad bowl; add croutons, oil, seasonings, and cheese. break the raw egg over the salad, ten pour the lemon juice over the egg. toss all together lightly from the bottom, and serve. serves 6. regarding the ingredients, mr. clapp has this to say: romaine: purchase pale green heads. remove outer leaves, wash thoroughly, shake dry, and chill in refrigerator. garlic oil: chop or mash a clove of garlic and place in bottom of a pint jar. fill jar with any salad oil keep at kitchen temperature, and use as needed. use the oil only; don't add the garlic to the salad. olive oil: in the case of this particular salad, best results are obtained if only a part (4 tablespoons) of the oil used is olive oil. black pepper: if possible, grind it yourself with a pepper mill. use plenty. parmesan type cheese: ideally, this should be freshly grated. egg: the raw egg acts as a binder and causes the dressing to be evenly distributed through the salad. the flavor of the egg is not detectable in the finished salad. with the salad, mr. clapp suggests serving garlic toast. to make it, split french rolls, brush the cut surface with garlic oil, sprinkle with parmesan type cheese and paprika, and heat in the oven."    "a salad to remember," sunset, march 1945 (p. 27) [1947] "1701. caesar salad prepare 2 cups of fried croutons (no. 203) in garlic flavored olive oil. place in wooden salad bowl rubbed with garlic, 2 medium sized heads crisp chilled romain, leaves separated and broken. sprinkle over it 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 4 oz., grated parmesan or crumbled blue cheese. add 6 tablespoons pure olive oil and juice of 2 medium sized lemons. break 2 raw eggs over salad, toss and mix gently, until trace of eggs has disappeared and the leaves have absorbed all liquid. taste for seasoning. just before serving, add the fried croutons, mixing and tossing salad again, being careful croutons do not become soggy. make at table just before serving."    the gold cook book, luis p. degouy [gallahad books:new york] 1947 (p. 815) [1950] ceasar salad from the pump room of the ambassador hotel, chicago 1 coddled egg 2 cloves garlic 1/8 teaspoon bahama mustard 1 tablespoon parmesan cheese 3/4 cup croutons 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 whole anchovies 2 heads romaine cut croutons out of sliced bread 1/2" square. roast same in oven, brown crisp under broiler. take two heads of romaine and wash thoroughly. cut same crosswise about 1/2" wide. place in wooden bowl. choose another bowl for your dressing. in this bowl break up garlic with fork and rub sides of bowl with it. add black pepper, pinch of salt, worcestershire sauce, mustard, lemon juice and mix thoroughly. then, after adding olive oil, mix thoroughly again. add cut up anchovies. mix coddled eggs to greens in wooden bowl. add salad dressing from second bowl and toss slightly. add croutons and half the amount of cheese and toss again, lightly. place on salad plate and sprinkle with remaining cheese."    love and fishes, niccolo de quattrochiocchi [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1950 (p. 365 366) [note: this book is chock full of celebrity recipes.] [1952] "[caesar cardinis original recipe] romaine lettuce, a one minute egg, garlic croutons, parmesan or romano cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, whole pepper, pear vinegar and olive oil."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) [note: preparation/method notes are not offered.] [1952] "caesar salad crush a clove of garlic and add it to ¾ of a cup of olive oil. let stand overnight. brown 2 cups of croutons, made from stale sourdough french bread, in ¼ cup of this garlic oil, stirring them carefully so that they will color on all sides. drain on paper toweling. (or, if you prefer, merely toast the bread cubes brown in a slow oven.) now break 2 large or 3 small heads of romaine into a large bowl, grind on a good generous amount of fresh black pepper and add ½ teaspoon of salt, then dress with ½ cup of the garlic oil. turn the salad until every leaf is glossy with oil, then break 2 eggs, cooked one minute, plunk into the middle of the salad. now, before the mixing is resumed, squeeze the guide of a big fat lemon directly over the egg (if the lemon is small, use 1 ½ or even 2 of them!), and mix so that there is a thick creamy look to the lettuce. if you wish to include fillets of anchovies, and many say you must, here is where they are added 6 to 8, snipped into bits. now taste it, and don't hesitate to use your fingers. more salt? more lemon? add them, or vinegar if you wish, plenty of experts do so. (and others insist on a slug of worcestershire!) the seasoning is now as you want it, so a good ½ cup (at least) of grated parmesan is tossed in, the salad mixed some more, and finally the croutons are added, and the salad served at once so they won't become limp and soggy. like any salad of this kind, the artists adds (or subtracts) as he goes along, so caesar salad, as you make it, is all your own! serves a dozen, more or less. 1 clove garlic 2/4 cup olive oil 2 cups croutons 2 3 heads romaine ½ teaspoon salt pepper 2 eggs juice of a large lemon 6 8 fillets of anchovies (optional) ½ cup grated parmesan."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile 1952 edition [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308 309) [1956] "caesar salad 1 large head iceberg lettuce 1 large head romaine 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt dash of fresh ground pepper 1 raw egg 1/4 cup garlic wine vinegar 2 cups croutons sprinkle prepared greens with cheese. combine 1/4 cup salad oil with worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. toss lightly with greens until each piece is coated. break whole egg into greens, sprinkle with garlic wine vinegar, toss until all egg particles disappear. combine remaining oil and croutons, toss with salad. makes 8 servings."    "caesar salad featured by world famous restaurants," san mateo times, june 27, 1956 (p. 36) [1957] "caesar salad several chefs and restauranteurs claim to have originated this well known green salad. sunset first discovered the salad in a small coronado restaurant and first published the recipe in march 1945. no one seems to know whether it was created by, or for, a 'caesar.' this version was published in sunset in 1957. caesar salad is invariably tossed at the table, where everyone can watch the host or hostess season and mix the greens and drop in each additional ingredient. 1 clove garlic 3/4 cup olive or other salad oil 2 cups croutons 2 large heads romaine 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 2 eggs, cooked 1 monute juice of one large lemon 6 to 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese crush garlic in small bowl, pour over the oil, and let stand several hours. brown the croutons (preferably made from stale sourdough french bread) in 1/4 cup of the garlic oil, stirring often. (if you prefer, you can toast the bread cubes in a slow oven.) tear romaine into a large salad bowl, sprinkle with salt, and grind over a generous amount of pepper. pour over remaining garlic oil and toss until every leaf is glossy. break the 1 minute eggs into salad; squeeze over the lemon juice, and toss thorougly. add chopped anchovies and grated cheese, and toss again. lastly, add the croutons, toss genetly, and serve immediately. serves about 12."    the sunset cook book, annabel post, home economics editor [lane book company:menlo park ca] 1960 (p. 19) [1960] "the original caesar salad 3 medium heads romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp garlic flavored olive oil, about 1/3 cup wine vinegar, 2 to 3 tablespoons juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 1 minute coddled eggs freshly ground pepper dash worcestershire sauce grated parmesan cheese, 5 or 6 tablespoons caesar croutons, about 1 cup break romaine leaves into 2  to 3 inch widths. at last minute before serving, place romaine in chilled salad bowl drizzle the garlic oil over greens, then the vinegar. squeeze the lemon over, using a fork to help free the juice. break in the 1 minute eggs. grind a flurry of pepper over all. season with salt and a dash of worcestershire. sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese. roll toss 6 or 7 times, or until dressing is thoroughly combined and every leaf is coated. add caesar croutons; toss 2 or 2 times. serve at once on chilled dinner plates. if you like, garnish with rolled anchovies. makes 6 servings as main course. " "caesar croutons: cut each slice of bread in 5 strips one way, then across 5 times to make squares. spread out on cooky sheet; pour a little garlic flavored oil over. heat in extremely slow oven (225 degrees f.) 2 hours. the croutons should be so dry, they'd float on water! ten they'll stay crunch when tossed with the dressing and greens. sprinkle croutons with grated parmesan cheese. store in jar and refrigerate to keep crispness."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) caesar salad dressing this salad's special dressing plays center stage. there is no other option. of course? there are variations... [1949] "caesar dressing, serves 2 1 egg, coddled 1 minute 1 heaping tbs. grated parmesan cheese 4 tbsp. pastry cream 1/2 cup brown derby old fashioned french dressing place coddled egg in a mixing bowl, add cheese and pastry cream. blend well. slowly whip in french dressing. any salad mixed with this dressing should be garnished with garlic french bread croutons."    brown derby cookbook, robert h. cobb [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949(p. 69) commercial production notes when the legendary caesar salad was *invented* by mr. cardini in his tijuana eatery in the 1920s, he made the dressing from scratch. according to his obituary, mr. cardini actively promoted commercial manufacture of his famous salad dressing: "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he had lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted." source: los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31). according to the records of the u.s. patent and trademark office cardini's brand caesar salad dressing was introduced to the american public february 6, 1950: word mark cardini's goods and services (abandoned) ic 029. us 046. g & s: salad dressing and salad dressing mix. first use: 19500206. first use in commerce: 19780915 mark drawing code (1) typed drawing serial number 73426710 filing date may 19, 1983 current filing basis 1a original filing basis 1a owner (applicant) cardini, rosa sinan dba, caesar cardini foods individual united states 4020 sepulveda blvd. culver city california 90230 attorney of record r. welton whann type of mark trademark register principal live/dead indicator dead abandonment date july 5, 1984 [note: cardini's brand name dressing is still being made. the current trademark owner is t. marzetti company.] perhaps the convincing push mr. cardini needed to capitalize on his name was a reaction to another company which already started making caesar dressing in the late 1940s. the earliest print evidence we find for manufactured caesar salad dressing is this advertisment published in 1949; "milani's caesar dressing for caesar salads, 45 cents/6 oz bottle." source: chicago daily tribune, september 29, 1949 (p. 9) green goddess dressing food historians generally credit philip roemer, chef of the palace hotel in san francisco, for the creation of green goddess salad dressing. it was allegedly made in honor of george arliss, an actor starring in a play by that same name. the year is fuzzy because the play ran in the 1920s followed by a popular film version in the 1930s. our survey of historic american cookbooks confirms mayonnaise based salad dressing recipes proliferated during the early decades of the 20th century. in fact? entire books were devoted to salads at that time. we examined several books and found several recipes for mayonnaise tarragon anchovy dressings onion dressings. given the noteriety of green goddess, it seems surprising to find recipes named such first surfacing in the late 1930s early 1940s. sometimes they are called "green dressing." "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1931] "green goddess salad dressing one cup mayonnaise, garlic, 1 tablespoon french dressing, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chives chopped fine, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 4 fillets of anchoves.   la casa pico tea room"    fashions in foods in beverly hills, compiled by the book section beverly hills womans club [beverly hills], 3rd edition 1931 (p. 26) [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; "taco salad. this salad arrived with the tex mex fast food franchises, which began to pepper the country in the 60s...the man who whetted our appetite for "hot and spicy" was glen bell, who opened the first "taco bell" in downey, california. that was 1962. did taco bell originate the taco salad? i've been unable to proved it did. or didn't. the first recipe i could find for taco salad appeared in the may 1968 issue of sunset."    american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 305) here is the recipe from sunset magazine, may 1968, p. 167 fry meat and onion over medium high heat; stir until the meat is crumbly and has lost its pinkness and the onion is tender. about 7 minutes. stir in the salt, chili powder and tomato sauce; keep hot. shred the lettuce and arrange on individual salad plates. top each with the meat mixture and sprinkle with cheese. arrange on each salad tomato wedges and avocado slices, if used. place corn chips around edges of salads and serve immediately. makes 4 servings. ar, alhambra, ca if you like more hotly seasoned mexican foods, you might add chopped canned green chilis or liquid hot pepper seasoning to taste; stir into the meat mixture with the tomato sauce." related dishes? seven layer taco dip & taco soup. tossed salad when and where did tossed or mixed salad begin? excellent question. the answer depends (in part) on how you define tossed greens/mixed salad. food historians tell us rudimentary mixed (several types of greens) salads were known to neolithic peoples. salads composed of fresh mixed greens dressed in vinegar and spices were enjoyed by ancient romans. this culinary tradition survived from european medieval times to the very end of the 19th century. some cuisines preferred warm salads, others, cold. in the late 19th century (usa) the domestic science/home economics movement took hold. they considered tossed plates of mixed greens "messy" and eschewed them in favor of "orderly presentations." salad ingredients were painstakingly separated, organized, and "glued together" with mayonnaise or gelatin. molded gelatin salads proliferated because they offered maximum control. enter: tossed salad our survey of american cookbooks and newspapers confirms mixed, tossed salads regained popularity in the 1930s. home economists promoted fresh vegetables as important (inexpensive) dietary supplement during the great depression. coincidentally? this is when atrfully crafted large wooden salad bowls were introduced. overnight? tossing salad in front of company became trendy. wooden salad bowls remain popular today. [1934] "a salad bowl salad don't always hide the secrets of your salad making within the four walls of your kitchen. sometimes carry all the "fixins" right to the table in a big roomy wooden or china bowl or even a gay kitchen mixing bowl and toss and serve there. to the greens in the salad bowl  a mixture of them is always nice  you may add rosy red radishes, whole or in slices; crisp cucumber, thinly sliced; tender young scallions; asparagus, cooked, chilled and cut in suitable pieces; thin green pepper rings; crisp celery; ripe, green or stuffed olives; or tomatoes, cubed or sliced. a lone strip of cold bacon may be cut in small pieces and added. and toss in that one cold potato, cut in cubes, or the spoonful of peas or string beans, or the one remaining stalk of asparagus. slices of hard cooked egg or pieces of cold meat, chicken or fish, contribute to a hearty salad too. and cheese either cubed, sliced or broken in pieces is always a welcome addition to the salad bowl. the mellow flavor of avocado adds much to the fruit salad look especially when raw strawberries, halves of cooked prunes, sections of orange, pineapple or grapefruit, fresh or canned are combined with it! and don't froget the grapes. such combinations as the above tossed and turned in a well seasoned french or mayonnaise dressing make a salad fit for the gods. and don't forget to cut a peeled bud of garlic rubbed on the inside of your salad bowl or dropped into your french dressing for a short time is a favorite seasoning to many."    good housekeeping cook book, dorothy b. marsh et al [good housekeeping:new york] 2nd edition, 1934 (p. 60) tuna salad culinary evidence (old cookbooks, menus etc.) confirms meat (ham) and mayonnaise type salads were popular in america from colonial times present. these were culinary traditions brought to our shores by european (esp. german) settlers. lobster and chicken salads were most common and extremely popular in the mid late 19th century. tuna salad is an early twentieth century recipe. why? because canned tuna was first introduced and mass marketed to the american public in 1903. american cookbooks in the 1930s and 1940s offer tuna salad recipes as alternatives to salads made from chicken and turkey. one might conclude this fishy substitution was not immediately embraced on its own merits. "tuna salad popular. in california the tuna is beign introduced generallly in the best restaurants, not only because it is new, but becuase people are beginning to value it for what it is. tuna salads are getting to be popular. the housekeeper can prepare the fish in a dozen different ways."    "tuna now popular fish food," christian science monitor, february 19, 1913 (p. 11) here is an early recipe: [1916] tuna fish salad 1 can tuna fish shredded lettuce salt and red pepper to taste 1 tablespoonful vinegar 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice mayonnaise dressing 1 tablespoonful capers 1 hard cooked egg 2 or 3 stuffed olives. line a salad dish with shredded lettuce. break the fish into pieces and place it on top of the lettuce. mix the salt, red pepper, lemon juice, and vinegar toghether and pour over the fish. chill, and when ready to serve, decorate with the capers, slices of hard cooked egg, and the stuffed olives. service with mayonnaise dressing. another method.  flake one can of tuna fish with a silver fork, add one and one half cupful of diced celery and one half cupful of broken english walnut meats, mix with mayonnaise  or boiled dressing. serve on crisp lettuce leaves."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion h. neil [1916] (p. 245 6) waldorf salad "waldorf salad...the dish was supposedly created by maitre d'hotel oscar tschirky of the waldorf astoria hotel in new york city, which opened in 1893. by 1896, when tschirky compiled the cook book by 'oscar of the waldorf,' the recipe  given without comment  called for only apples, celery, and mayonnaise, and the salad later became a staple item in most hotel dining rooms and other restaurants. at some point in the next two decades chopped walnuts were added, for they are listed by george rector in the ingredients for the salad in the rector cook book, which appeared in 1928, after which walnuts became standard in the recipe, including the one give in the waldorf astoria cookbook [1981], by ted james and rosalind cole."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 343) "waldorf salad...oscar tschirky...created this salad for a 'society supper' to which 1,500 persons came from boston, baltimore, and philadelphia...for sheila hibben, food editor of the new yorker, his creation was a mixed blessing. she thought his combination of apples and mayonnaise headed american housewives in the wrong direction 'and bred the sorry mixture of sweet salads' that remain very much on the gastronomical scene..."    american food: the gastronomic story, evan jones [vintage:new york] 1981, 2nd ed. (p. 398) "this american classic first was introduced at the old waldorf hotel in new york. oddly, it was an off the cuff creation by the maitre d'hotel, oscar tschirky, rather than an inspiration of the chef."    "apples fill a variety of culinary needs and are available all year long," peter kump, chicago tribune, february 15, 1990, 11a the original recipe waldorf salad peel two raw apples and cut them into small pieces, say about half and inch square, also cut some celery the same way, and mix it with the apple. be very careful not to let any seeds of the apples be mixed with it. the salad must be dressed with a good mayonnaise.    the cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, oscar tschirky [saafield publishing company:chicago] 1908 , copyright 1896 (p. 433) watergate salad & cake pistachios have been enjoyed since the beginning of time. they have generally considered luxury items. in the 20th century, technological advances made them more accessible to home cooks. culinary evidence confirms these nuts were most often used to flavor ice creams and parfaits. they were also sometimes used in pates, salads (toppings, molded in combination with other ingredients gelatine), baked goods, and candy. notes on pistachios and their use in cookery here. although salads and cakes made flavored with pistachios date back to the early 20th century, culinary evidence connects the recipes we know today as watergate salad and watergate cake to the kraft company, dating from the mid 1970s. why the kraft connection? both recipes use pistachio instant pudding mix, which was introduced by kraft foods in 1975. why watergate? the answer seems obvious to everyone who knows a little about american political events during that time period. interestingly enough, it has yet to be confirmed. the kraft does not take credit for the name. in fact? no one does. we do know that in 1973 two tongue in cheek "watergate" cookbooks were published: the watergate cookbook, n.y. alplaus [emporium publications:charlestown ma] and the watergate cookbook (or, who's in the soup?), the commitee to write the cookbook [new lone star press:cambridge ma]. these were apparently inpired by tom donnelly's article "serve hot, the county the silver," published earlier that year in the washington post. neither of these books, nor donnelley's article, contain recipes for watergate salad or watergate cake. "we developed the recipe for pistachio pineapple delight," says pat risso of kraft corporate affairs. "it was in 1975, the same year that pistachio pudding mix came out."the company, however, didn't suggest serving the dessert as a salad or change the name. as a matter of fact, the company didn't refer to it at all as watergate salad until consumers started requesting a recipe for watergate salad. the answer from an e mail query to http://www.kraftfoods.com got a little warmer. "according to kraft kitchens, when the recipe for pistachio pineapple delight was sent out, a chicago food editor renamed it watergate salad to promote interest in the recipe when she printed it in her column," the response came back. a call to carol haddix, food editor of the chicago tribune, got a quick response. "never heard of it," she said. a half dozen calls to former chicago food editors, publicists and retired kraft kitchens personnel also hit dead ends."    the proof is in the pudding; crashing watergate, louis mahoney; the richmond times dispatch, august 4, 1999 (p. f 1) watergate salad was reportedly named by a chicago food editor for an article, but neither the article nor editor has been tracked down. the full name of the cake is watergate cake with coverup icing."    trivia, rogers cadenhead, knight ridder newspapers, the record (bergen county, nj) march 15, 2000 "new flavors in 1976 were americana rice pudding and pistachio instant pudding. popular recipes were pudding in a cloud and, in 1981, watergate salad (pistachio and pineapple)." the history of jell o, kraft food company."    from kraft's old web site (not included in current pages) watergate salad of course, very few recipes are *invented* overnight. they are usually variations on popular food that have beens served for years. "pistachio nut  a native of central asia and member of the cashew family, the pistachio nut...has been cultivated for some 3,000 years and has a long history of popularity in the mediterranean world. but it was not until the 1930s with the advent of vending machines, that pistachio nuts (also called pistache) imported from italy became something of a rage in the united states as a snack food."    the cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas, volume 2, (p.1835) "it was in 1929 that american plant scientist william e. whitehouse spent a lonely six months in persia (modern day iran), collecting seed and sifting through piles of produce to find the most distinctive pistachios. he returned carrying a burlap sack 20 pounds heavy with seed." california pistachio commission "[1901] dole's company becomes hawaiian pineapple company and is incorporated in this year. james dole becomes known as "the pineapple king," because he was able to successfully grow and harvest this crop that had failed so many others. his company puts canned pineapple in every grocery store in the country and makes the name "hawaiian" almost synonymous with "pineapple." dole company molded salads combining all sorts of ingredients (especially mini marshmallows) were all the rage in the 1920s. the history of jell 0. jell o instant puddings were test marketed in 1950. the oldest recipe we found specifically titled "watergate salad" is this: [1975] "watergate salad 1 (20 ounce) can crushed pineapple (undrained) 1 box instant pistachio pudding mix 1 1/2 cups small marshmallows 1 (9 ounce) box whipped topping mix 1 cup or less walnuts or pecans mix undrained pineapple with pudding by pouring pudding into pineapple. stir. add rest of ingredients. stir by hand. chill before serving. c.k."    "anne's reader exchange," washington post, november 13, 1975 (p. c17) watergate cake "a new watergate crisis is sweeping the washington area, but this time only homemakers and a few business men seem to care... the crisis stems from the growing popularity of a recipe for a concoction called "watergate cake," which demands large quantities of powdered pistachio pudding mix, both in the layer cake and in its light green icing. apparently, only one firm, royal pudding, a division of standard brands, inc., distributes pistachio pudding in the washington area. supermarkets haven't been able to get engouh to cope with the demands, which began around thanksgiving time and was very heavy at christmas. store shelves have been regularly stripped of the mix the same day it is displayed...if the sales spurt is not directly attributable to the popularity of watergate cake... "the we don't knoe why this product has suddenly taken off. it's been just phenomenal..." barry scher, a spokesman for giant foods, placed the blame not only on the recipe, but also on a coincidental shortage of pistachio nuts. "that was about five months abo, the spokesman said, "and as it ended, this recipe began circulating around. we were bombarded. we hate to admit it, but we just can't keep the mix on the shelf. the onset of watergate cake mania  and the resulting effort to close the supply demand gap   has tested old friendships and challenged the ingenuity and competitive instincts of many a washington area homemaking... no one, meanwhile, seems able to pinpoint the origin of this watergate, the recipe for which has appeared in a number of newspapers, including the washington post. nor can anyone explain how the cake got its name or why pistachio is the main flavoring. one current explanation leans on the presence of crushed walnuts in the cake  "bugs" in the parlance of kids. like the giant spokesman, harold giesinger, proprietor of the watergate pastry shop, had no thoughts on where the recipe originated   except that it was not with his bakery. "we haven't invented anything to which we'd attach a name like that," he said. nor, he added, does his shop rely on pistachio as a key ingredient in any of its products. "a private source may have put it together, " he said of the recipe. wherever watergate cake started, the pudding firm would like more more problems like it. gagan suspects some people have been buying more pistachio pudding mix than they'll ever use, simply becuase it's hard to get...further relief is in sight. another manufacturer, general foods, scanning the watergate assisted pistachio market, has decided to jump in. its version is expected to hit the supermarket shelves in march..."    "a watergate cake mania," alexander sullivan, washington post, february 26, 1976 (p. b2) [recipe included, see below 1976] "according to my sister in law who lives in waynesboro, virginia, the name of the cake became prominent in that part of the country because  nixon liked pistachio nuts, hence (and a rather far fetched reasoning) the name for the watergate cake, because synonymous with  pistachio nuts, mrs. nixon and watergate. i had neither heard of pistachio pudding or the watergate cake until last fall we stopped to visit them, and she had the cake all ready for us to eat. however, her recipe is much different than the one printed in the washington post thursday in your column. sincerely yours, virginia k. wiszneauckas, wheaton, md."    "that cake," washington post, march 11, 1976 (p. va2) the earliest recipe we find for pistachio cake also employs a packaged cake mix. note! this is "mock pistachio"! [1962] pistachio almond into [angel food mix] cake batter, fold a few drops green food color, 1/4 teasp. almond extract, 3/4 minced, blanched almonds."    good housekeeping cook book, dorothy b. marsh [good housekeeping:new york] 1962 (p. 457) compare with these: [1975] "watergate cake 1 box white cake mix 1 box pistachio instant pudding 1 cup vegetable oil 1 cup club soda 3 eggs 1/2 cup chopped walnuts mix all ingredients well (4 to 4 minutes). bake in 12 by 9 inch greased pan for 45 minutes at 350 degrees. topping for cake 1 box pistachio instant pudding 1/4 cup cold milk 1 (9 ounce) box whipped topping mix nut meats and maraschino cherries beat milk into instant pudding mix. prepare topping mix according to instructions on box. fold into pudding mixture. spread oncake and top with nuts and cherries. c.s.r. arlington."    "anne's reader exchange," washington post, november 13, 1975 (p. c17) [1976] watergate cake 1 (3 1/2 ounce) box instant pistachio pudding 1 box white cake mix (any brand) 1 cup vegetable oil 1/2 cup walnuts 1 cup ginger ale 3 eggs mix together  any order bake at 350 degrees  30 to 40 minutes. it isn't necessary to grease the pan. icing one large or two small containers frozen whipped topping 1 box instant pistachio pudding 1 1/2 cups milk mix together until smooth. top off with nuts, coconuts or cherries. lovely to look at and very moist."    "a watergate cake mania," alexander sullivan, washington post, february 26, 1976 (p. b2) [1976] "here is a fantastic cake recipe that i like to prepare for special occasions," writes nels wenman. "it was sent to me by a cousin in arizona." watergate cake with cover up icing 1 (18 1/2 ounce) package white cake mix 1 (3 1/2 ounce) package instant pistachio pudding mix 3 eggs, unbeaten 3/4 cup oil 1 cup lemon lime carbonated beverage cover up icing 3/4 cup shredded coconut 1 cup finely chopped pecans combine cake mix, pudding mix, eggs, oil and lemon lime in a bowl. beat until well blended. pour into a greased and floured 13x9 inch pan and bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes. cool. spread with cover up icing and sprinkle with coconut and pecans. cover up icing 2 (1 1/2 ounce) envelopes nondairy whipped topping mix 1 1/2 cups milk 1 (3 1/2 ounce) package instant pistachio pudding mix beat whipped topping mix, milk and pudding mix together until smooth and thick."    "my best recipe," los angeles times, june 17, 1976 (p. h6) where do pistachios come from? "pistachio, pistacia vera, a small tree native to parts of west asia and the levant between turkey and afghanistan, bears nuts which have for long been highly prized. the earliest traces of pistachios being eaten in turkey and the middle east date back to about 7000bc; and the species has been cultivated and improved during serveral millenia...pistachio trees were introduced from asia to europe in the 1st century ad, by the romans."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 610) "pistachio...the word originated in persian as pistah, and reached the west via greek pistakion. english originally borrowed it from french as pistace."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 258) "pistachio nut. a native of central asia and member of the cashew family, the pistachio nut has been cultivated for some 3,000 years and has a long history of popularity in the mediterranean world. but it was not until the 1930s, with the advent of vending machines, that pistachio nuts (also called pistache) imported from italy became something of a rage in the united states as a snack food...following world war ii, the evergreen trees that bear pistachios were imported to california, and although the imported nuts are still dyed, most american grown pistachios are sold without dye, in naturally tan shells."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000 volume 2 (p. 1835) "the dying of pistachios is not a middle eastern tradition but is said to have originated with a brooklyn street vendor named zaloom who colored his pistachios red to distinguish them from his competitors. the idea caught on  especially in the east  that most pistachios used to be dyed red. this is no longer true, with only about 15 percent of those sold today so colored."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 243) pistachio cookery "this pistachio, with its unique color and mild but distinctive flavour, has always been a luxury, costing three or four times as much as other nuts. it is generally eaten roasted and salted as a dessert nut. in cooking it is often used as a garnish or decoration, both in sweet and savory dishes. for example, it figures in in some of the finest pilaf dishes and in european pates and brawns which are served in slices, so that the nuts appear as attractive green specs or slivers."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 610) "in mediterranean and oriental cooking, pistachios are used in poultry sauces and stuffings and also in hash. in classic cuisine they garnish galantines, brawn (head cheese) and mortadella. in india pistachio puree is used to season rice and vegetables. pistachios go best with veal, pork and poultry. their green color (often accentuated artificially) makes them popular for creams (especially for filling cakes, such as the galacien) and for ice creams and ice cream desserts. in confectionery it is especially associated with nougat."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 900) lettuce arugula & rocket...chicory...iceberg lettuce... lamb's lettuce...romaine lettuce...water cress the food historians and linguists tell us lettuce was [most likely] first cultivated by the ancient greeks, possibly as early as the 6th century bc. there is some controversy regarding the date because there were several ancient plants fitting the description of lettuce at that time. "wild lettuce was gathered for millennia by hunter gatherers and was still being gathered by humans at the time of the ancient greeks. the latter probably began its cultivation, which was continued by the roman. the first cultivated letuuce was lactuca serriola, which is native to the mediterranean region."    the cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1801) "the ancient greeks and romans cultivated the lettuce, especially as a salad. in the east its cultivation possible dates from an earlier epoch. nevertheless it does not appear, from the original common names both in asia and europe, that this plant was generally or very anciently cultivated. there is no sanskrit nor hebrew name known, nor any in the reconstructed aryan tongue. a greek name exists, tridax; latin, latuca; persian and hindu, kahn; and the analogous arabic form chuss or chass. the latin form exists also, slightly modified, in the slav and germanic languages, which may indicate either that the western aryans diffused the plant, or that its cultivation spread with its name at a later date from the south to the north of europe. dr. bretscheider has confirmed by supposition that the lettus is not very ancient in china, and that it was introduced there from the west. he says that the first work in which it is mentioned dates from a.d. 600 to a.d. 900."    origin of cultivated plants, alphonse de candole [hafner publishing company:new york] 1964 (p. 96) "other new roman arrivals [to britain] were the garden varieties of a number of green vegetables, among them cabbage, beet, mallows, orache (atriplex), lettuce and endive..."    food and drink in britain from the stone age to the 19th century, c. anne wilson [academy broadway:chicago il] 1991 (p. 195) "lettuce..was introduced to britain by the romans, who commonly ate it cooked rather than raw. this tradition continued into and beyond the middle ages...but by the seventeeth century the memory of it was dying out (john eveyln...in his aceteria is extravagant in his praise of lettuce as a raw salad vegetable, but of cooked lettuce he notes only as an afterthought."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 189) lettuce in america "england had cultivated lettuce as of the fifteenth century, but christopher columbus may have been the first to bring it to america. lettuce was grown only in home gardens until the twentienth century, when americans' new appetite for salad made commercial production profitable."    encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 183) "both leaf and head lettuces were commonly grown in colonial and early american times. lettuce was highly perishable and was available only locally in season. however, lettuce became more readily availble in the twentieth century with the development of crisphead lettuce (iceberg is the most familiar). with sturdy leaves forming a compact, round head, these lettuces can be transported over long distances without damage. distributed by railroad from california and arizona, lettuce becmae an important year round food in america. during the 1920s and 1930s its production doubled."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 32) romaine lettuce salads made with romaine lettuce (also known as cos lettuce) were known in the united states by 1880s. romaine was used as both base and in combination with other leafy greens. our cookbooks do not specify this type of lettuce but the recipes below do. of course, this is not a definate indicator that romaine was enjoyed by all classes of people in all parts of the country. we can presume romaine was appreciated by the wealthy based on its appearance on a menu served at the harvard club's dinner in 1895 (nyt, february 22, 1895, p. 3). note: this romaine and lettuce salad was served in the classic european fashion, towards the end of the meal, just before the dessert course. [1877] "salad a la romaine. freshen two heads of lettuce in plenty of cold water. when about to serve mix in a bowl three tablespoonfuls of oil, one of lemon juice, one third of a small onion grated, inch of cayenne, white pepper and salt to taste, and a small pinch of powdered sugar: break the lettuce into the bowl; well mix, turn into the salatiere, garnish with hard boiled eggs, and serve."    "receipts for the table," new york times, january 28, 1877 (p. 9) [note: this recipe does not specify the type of lettuce to be used. "heads" imply standard usa lettuce, not the more leafy romaine.] [1886] "there is another kind [of lettuce], high in favor in paris and in some localities in this country for its tenderness and delicate flavor, but not liked by marketmen, because it will not bear rough handling. the time will come, however, when there will be such a demand for this species that all first class provision dealers will keep it. the french call it romaine, and in this country it is sometimes called roman lettuce. it does not head. the leaves are strng and not handsome whole; but one who uses the lettuce never wishes for any other."    miss parloa's new cook book, a guide to marketing and cooking, maria parloa [estes and lauriat::boston ma] 1886 (p. 52) arugula & rocket arugula (aka rocket) is an "old world" cruciferous plant. the leaves have been used for centuries in salads. they have a tangy, mustardy flavor, which makes the salad interesting in flavor and texture. americans "discovered" this tasty green in the 1990s. "the rocket is a eurasian plant with spicily hot tasting dandelion shaped leaves that are used in salads. it has become much more widely known in britain following the salad revolution of the late twentieth century. the name rocket comes via french roquette from italian ruchetta, a diminutive form of ruca, which in turn comes from latin eurca. this meant literally caterpillar', and was applied to the plant because of its hairy stems. it may have been derived from er, hedgehog'."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 284) "rocket, eruca sativa, a plant which grows wild in asia and the mediterranean region, has been introduced elsewhere, including n. america (where it is known by its italian name, arugula), and cultivated for use as a salad plant. its flavour, akin to that of horseradish or some sorts of cress, is strong in mature leaves, so these are added to salads with discretion. young leaves may be used freely. their popularity as a smart ingredient in western restaurants may obscure then fact that they are grown and liked in some places, e.g. the north of sudan...in classical rome the plant was cultivated both for its leaves and for its seeds, used as a flavouring. the seeds can also be used to produce and oil."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 667) "arugula also known as "rocket" and "garden rocket," this native of europe and western asia...is a cruciferous plant that has long provided tender, slightly bitter, mustard flavoured greens for the salad bowls of southern europeans and italian americans. lately, it has become widely available in the united states, where it has been naturalized. its leaves resemble those of the radish, which is a close relative. the seeds of arugula are also eaten, and they yield an oil that is used for culinary puroses, as a lubricant, and in medicines."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenlas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1722) "rocket, salad vegetable, one of the best native mediterranean species. rocket was grown in classical greek kitchen gardens and was equally familiar to romans. apart from the use of the leaf, rocket seed is called for as a culinary spice in apicus. rocket had an enduring reputation among aphrodesiacs...because of this reputation rocket was often served at dinners mixed with lettuce, an antaphrodesiac, so that their qualities would conteract one another."    food in the ancient world from a to z, andrew dalby [routledge:london] 2003 (p. 282) arugula & rocket in the usa based on the number of print newspaper references per decade "arugula" gained marked interest in the 1990s and became popular in the 2000s. the plant was known, but not particularly favored, from colonial times forward. presumably, this accounts for the dearth of references & recipes. [1911] "rocket: a rather coarse garden plant whose young leaves are occasionally used as a pot herb or for salads. the flowers resemble orange blossoms in odor."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [national grocer:new york] 1911 (p. 532) [1919] "b. vulgaris...rocket. winter cress. yellow rocket. europe and temperate asia. this herb of northern climates have been cultivated in england for a long time and as an early salad and also in scotland, where the bitter leaves are eaten by some. in early times, rocket was held in some repute but is now banished from cultivation yet appears in gardens as a weed...rocket is included in the list of american garden esculents by mcmahon in 1806. in 1832, bridgeman says winter cress is used as a salad in spring and autumn and by some boiled as a spinage."    sturtevant's notes onf edible plants, edited by u.p. hedrick, report of the new york agricultural experiment station for the year 1919 ii [j.b. lyon company:albany ny] 1919 (p. 82) [138] "roquette. this is a salad vegetable resembling cress in taste. it is served as a salad in the same manner, and is very popular with the creoles."    the original picayune creole cook book, 9th edition [times picayune publishing co.:new orleans la] 1938 227) [1960] "it would seem almost impossible that the most appealing and relatively abundant salad green could be available in new york and yet be relatively unknown. but there is one, and it leads to the suspicion that there may be more. the one in question has more names than joseph's coat has colors. the fact of the matter is that this green with the pungent and fascinatinf flavor goes by different names from one market to the next. ask italian green grocers for arugula, rucola or ruccoli; ask other markets for rouquette, rocket salad or, simply, rocket...most italian chefs know...that arugula or rocket...is the secret ingredient in many of their salads about town. considering the public unawareness of the plant, it has an astonishing availability...new york does not have a corner on the vegetable's availability in the united states. rocket salad is tremendously popular in the creole country of louisiana."    "food news: a green by any name," craig claiborne, new york times may 24, 1960 (p. 33) chickory salad green, cooked vegetable, and (when times are tough) coffee substitue. "chicory. semantic problems abound with chicory (cichorium intybus)  also called succory, radicchio, and red chicory), endive...and escarole, which is the broad leafed variety of endive. all three are members of the dandelion family, but there the resemblance ends. cichoirum endivia, native to india, was the ancestor of endive and known to the egyptians as well as to the ancient greeks and romans. by contrast, c. indybus is native to europe, but the names nonetheless remain confused. in the united states, chicory is generally called belgian edive, although this is also referred to simply as endive. the french, too, call it endive...and radicchio is chicory's italian name...chicory as well as endive roots are ground to become a natural coffee substitute...or in addition to regular coffee for added flavor and reduced caffeine. however, the tight hearts of belgian endive and radicchio are also attractive and slightly bitter ingredients in salads; in addition, their braised leaves can be a vegetable dish in their own right."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge unviersity press:cambridge] volume two, 2001 (p. 1753) "chicory...decribes a group of perennial cultivated plants developed from wild chicory, a common plant of europe, w. asia, and africa...chicory was used as a vegetable and for salad in classical greece and rome, but was not apparently cultivated. the leaves of the wild plant are not too bitter if gathered young. from the 16th century onwards modern cultivated forms, with larger and less bitter leaves, were developed...the practice of taking up chicory plants in the autumn, cutting off their leaves, and replanting the roots in a dark cellar so that they regrow small, white leaves originated in france. the original french variety called, like the wild plant, barbe de capucin is unusual in that the roots are replanted on their sides in angled banks and the shoots grow horizontally. around 1850 a belgian grower, experimenting with uses for old musroom compost, discovered the superior cigar shaped form witloof...the large rooted variety of chicory which is used as a coffee substitute was developed in holland during the second half of the 18th century, when coffee was newly fashionable and very expensive. all over europe people experimented with substitutes: grains, figs, acorns, and all kinds of root, especially dandelion and chicory. chicory was judged the most acceptable."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 167 8) "chicory can be served raw in salads  with vinaigrette and often with hard boiled (hard cooked) eggs and any of the various ingredients used in winter salads, including beetroot (red beets), apples, nuts, cheese and orange or grapefruit quarters. for cooked dishes, chicory heads are braised and drained; they can then be coated with bechamel sauce, sprinkled with noisette butter, served with gravy or with plain butter and herbs topped with grated cheesse and browned, or made into a puree. they can be served as an accompaniement to roasts and poultry. they can also be braised, made into a chiffanade or prepared as fritters (espsecially when served with fish). as a main dish, chicory is braised rolled in slices of ham and coated with a port and raisin sauce, or stuffed (with a fatty or lean stuffing) and browned on top."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 278) "chicory. american nomenclature is very confusing for this salad green called cichorium intybus, with its curly leaves and bright blue flowers...chicory is quite bitter and is often mixed with other salad greens. the same plant's roots are dried and ground into a granular powder, often referred to as "succory," that resembles coffee and is used as an additive to or substitute for real coffee in creole and cajun cooking, a legacy of the french influence on these cuisines...adding chicory to coffee began in new orleans during the food scarce civil war."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 73 4) lamb's lettuce (mache, cornsalad) "lamb's lettuce is a small plant of the genus valerianella with soft long roundish leaves eaten raw in salads. it has been known in britain for many centuries (john gerard mentions it in his herbal, 1597), but it was only in the 1980s, whith an increasing interest in exploring a wider range of salad leaves, that it started to become widely available commercially (the french, who call it mache, have always known its worth). the origins of its name, which may be a translation of latin latuca agnina, are not known for certain, but it presumably reflects a supposed partiality of lambs for the leaves. an alternative name, used particuarly for the wild variety, is corn salad, an allusion to the plant's commonly grown in corn fields."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 184) ""cornsalad," so named because these plants with small, bluish flowers grow in cornfields, actully refers to any of several plants of the genus valerianella...these european natives  found throughout north america as well  provide slightly bitter tasting leaves that are much appreciated in salads. the various types of cornsalad were considered weeds until the seventeenth century, when they began to be cultivated, and cultivation doubtless accounts for the different varieties now identified... common names and synonyms: european cornsalads, fat hen, field salad, hog salad, lamb's lettuce, lamb's quarter, mache...marsh salad."    world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2001, volume two (p. 1763) "lamb's lettuce. a plant with rounded leaves in a rosette form, which is usually eaten raw in a salad. it is also known...in france, as mache, doucette, valerianelle potagere, raiponce, and oreielle de lievre. it grows wild in fields, usually in autumn, but is cultivated in france from september to march and gives a good flavour to a winter salad. there are several varieties..."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 668) caesar salad simple, elegant, inexpensive, and famous. what more could a chef ask for? american cookbooks confirm chefs were serving artfully cut lettuce coated in french dressing in fancy restaurants from the late 19th century forwards. what makes caesar salad different? a memorable origination story (or two or three) and documented hollywood flair. "and now we come to it  the most talked of salad of a decade, perhaps of the century. like all recipes that have become widely known, several chefs and restaurateurs have claimed to have originated the salad. actually many of them have had a hand in promoting it, though not necessarily as a caesar. as for its origin, the best guess seems to be that the whole thing started in tia juana, during prohibition, but whether it was actually created by one named 'caesar,' or just named for him, is a matter of considerable discussion. the salad is at its best when kept simple, but as it is invariably made at table, and sometimes by show offs, it occasionally contains far too many ingredients."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile reprint [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308) classic theory of origin: "caesar salad. a salad of romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese, worcestershire sauce, and, often, anchovies. it was created by caesar cardini, an italian immigrant who opened a series of restaurants in tijuana, mexico...on fourth of july weekend in 1924 at caesar's palace, cardini concocted the salad as a main course, arranging the lettuce leaves on a plate with the intention that they would be eaten with their fingers. later cardini shredded the leaves into bite sized pieces. the salad became particularly popular with hollywood movie people who visited tijuana, and it became a featured dish at chasen's and romanoff's in los angeles."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 50 51) [note: most sources cite the restaurant as cesar's (or caesar's) place.] "it was an accident! but now caesar salad is tossed in handsome salad bowls, coast to coast and on purpose! a well known restaurateur, caesar cardini, concocted this zesty salad some 35 years ago at tijuana, mexico. here is the true story, told to us by his daughter rosa. one holiday weekend a throng of tourists descended on caesar's place. a few crates of romaine, half a case of eggs, a wheel of italian cheese, some lemons, and dry bread that was all the food left by sunday morning. what to do for the hungry crowd at dinner? caesar thought he'd have to close shop for the remainder of the holiday. instead he decided to invent a new salad form the ingredients he had on hand. he got out the eggs, the lemons, the parmesan cheese, the bread, and the big bottle of olive oil to which he previously had added garlic. with the romaine lettuce as the only greens, he experimented with a little of this and that in the dressing. finally, to bind the dressing ingredients together, he came up with the idea of coddling the eggs for a minute, then tossing them with the salad. (yes, that's right the original caesar salad was not made with completely raw eggs.) the loaves of bread he cut in tiny cubes and slowly oven toasted them to add to his salad at the very end. (the anchovies, now a familiar ingredient in caesar salad, didn't become part of the recipe until some 10 years later.) while the waiters kibitzed, caesar demonstrated his creation. 'take everything to each table,' he instructed, 'and make a ceremony of fixing the salad. plenty of fanfare. let guests think they're having the specialty of the house.' and the guests did! so rapidly did the news of this remarkable salad spread, that diners flocked to caesar's place just to learn the recipe. soon west coast restaurants adopted it; then it appeared on the finest menus in every state. caesar cardini's reward? in paris at the 1951 meeting of the international society of epicures, his salad was acclaimed the greatest recipe contribution of the united states in 50 years. but it was really at tijuana, mexico that the now world famous caesar salad was born. you'll find many variations of caesar salad, but here rosa cardini, who operates the food specialty shop her father started in los angeles and who bottles the original caesar salad dressing, share his authentic recipe and salad know how."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) story 2: "it has been fairly well established that the late caesar cardini created the caesar salad at hist restaurant in tijuana, mexico. or did he? the latest word is that an italian woman named beatriz santini composed the salad in austria in 1918. hard put for food in a country impovershed by war, she soft boiled eggs, which were plentiful, and added them to a bowl of romaine lettuce. a little parmesan cheese, a dressing of wine vinegar and olive oil, and the creation was complete. cardini never met santini. so how did he come up with the same idea? he didn't, we are told. the link was santini's son, livio, who emigrated to tijuana. livio santini got a job with cardini, who had opened a bar and restaurant on second street about 1924. one day, a hungry santini mixed up a bit of his mother's salad. a wealthy customer from la jolla invaded the kitchen as santini was crunching romaine, and she asked for a taste. it pleased her so that she ordered a serving from cardini, who came out to find what santini was eating. one week later, the salad was on the menu, ceremoniously mixed at table side by a captain and busboy. thus, the start of the cardini legend. the teller of this tale was no tale spinner. it was livio santini himself. now 78, santini was a guest of honor at tijuana's recent first caesar salad celebration."   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) story 3: "sr. alex cardini, of cardini's restaurant in mexico city, affirms that he invented the original caesar salad in 1926, naming it after his brother."    a world of vegetable cookery, alex d. hawkes [simon and schuster:new york] 1968 (p. 138) the anchovy debate: food historians agree anchovies were not part of the original recipe. these salty fillets infiltrate in the 1930s. "cardini was adamant in insisting that the salad be subtly flavored and argued against the inclusion of anchovies, whose faint flavor in his creation he believed may have come from the worcestershire sauce. he also decreed that only italian olive oil and imported parmesan cheese be used."    encyclopedia of american food and drink (p. 51) "according to santini...his mother used no anchovies, no lime or lemon juice and no croutons in her salad...the controversial anchovy, acknowledged by either beatriz santini nor caesar cardini, wound up on several salads.".   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) "the shocking truth is that while a proper caesar always has anchovy, an authentic one never does. in its original form, caesar salad was more a culinary tourist trap than a great american food standard, famous for the tableside show that came with the salad, not the anchovy. yet it is the anchovy that most caesar aficionados consider vital; only caesar wimps ask for their salad sans the small fry. so where did the anchovy come from?...the most common theory involves worcestershire sauce. the thinking is that someone, somewhere along the way...ran out of worcestershire sauce...saw anchovy on the list of ingredients and made the brilliant substitution. 'we can't figure it out,' said rosa cardini, daughter of the salad's inventor...cardini envisioned his a subtle salad, but as rosa pointed out, subtle is exactly what anchovies aren't."   "caesar! origin of the species," laurie ochoa, los angeles times, october 16, 1988 (p. l103) when did ceasar salad become popular in the usa? conventional wisdom places the invention of this salad in the mid 20s. our survey of contemporary sources suggests its was known, but not served, in southern california until a decade later. after wwii descriptions published in trendy journals (think: gourmet) sparked interest. by the mid 1950s everyone who was anyone in the usa knew what a caesar salad was. this coincides with the passing of mr. cardini. "jean harlow, mable hormand and all the stars would come to tijuana and ask for a cesar's salad, [cesar cardini] recalled...but it didn't become famous until 1937 when a screenwriter, manny wolfe, one of my regular customers, went to the house of murphy restaurant here, called for the ingredients and made the salad. the manager, di ciro, called it his salad,. but wolf took the recipe to the brown derby and chasen's and they called it caesar salad."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) "...hollywood's great delicacy, the caesar salad...the caesar salad, which mike romanoff'll let you have at a sacrifice  only 2 bucks  is glorified garlic. it's garlic with glamor he first time i heard of a 2 buck salad, i wanted to render unto caesar what was caesar's  a big loud razberry. they my beautiful wife...pointed out that it was an aristocrat of foods. like stone crabs in miami, oysters rockefeller in new orleans, lobsters in boston, cream cheese and bagels in new york. 'why do they call it caesar salad?' i kept asking. and finally i found it was invented by an italian named caesar cardini in his tijuana restaurant, called caesar's. edmund lowe tasted it there and brought it to hollywood. caeser's ex partner, peter friggerio, formerly at the colony and marguery in new york, is now the captain at henri's here where, of course, you can get a wonderful caesar salad. but confidently, the french born henri de charpentier, who's chef there and used to be at lynbrook, l. i. thinks it's a big mistake to have such a huge glamorous salad before the main course."    "dressing up garlic, early wilson, zanesville times recorder [oh], february 1, 1947 (p. 4) "los angeles revisited a few weeks ago, for the first time in two years, revealed more conclusively than almost anything else that the gastronomic highlight of the current moment is an arrangement called caesar's salad and that its consumption is constant, universal, and something to make the public prints in any fountainhead of good living like gourmet, as it has. caesar's salad, which is only infrequently encountered in restaurants in the east, but which will inevitably arrive in new york one of these fine days, is based on romaine instead of lettuce, chopped up anchovies, a liberal inclusion of heavily garlic flavored croutons, french dressing made slick by the inclusion of a couple of whole raw eggs, and the whole thing liberally showered with grated parmesan. at romanoff's, where we were taken to luncheon by gourmet's own stephen longstreet, with an assortment of local characters which included bob hope, gregory la cava, barbara stanwyck, and hedda hopper at adjacent tables, we were introduced to caesar's salad. at dave chasen's, where we dined that evening with robert hanley, the newly discovered and flourishing decorator of the county strip, we were immediately advised that caesar's salad was the thing to have. the next evening at hansen's scandia restaurant in sunset boulevard, the assembled chivalry to a man commanded caesar's salad, and subsequent skirmishes with the menus at perino's, the vine street brown derby, the garden restaurant of the town house, and other ranking restaurants of the city of angeles evolved the conviction that caesar's salad is as much of a part of the hollywood pattern as swimming pools or the new look."    "along the boulevards," lucius beebe, gourmet, june 1948, [no recipe] accessed online who was cesar cardini? an italian immigrant who wound up in tijuana. obviously savvy, mr. cardini operated a successful restaurant offering trendy cuisine to america's glamoros hollywood stars. he left tijuana in 1935 because mexican regulations against gambling were crushing his business. mr. cardini eventually settled in los angles, running an imported foods store. he cashed in on his claim to fame by selling his dressing. he passed away at the age of 60 in 1956. "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he has lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted. he was born in lago maggiore, italy, worked many european hotels and came to the united states when he was 20. for a time, before going to tijuana, he owned a restaurant in sacramento...he leaves his widow camille, a daughter rosa...two sisters [living in italy] and two brothers, alex and caudencio, who are in the restaurant business in mexico city."    "cesar cardini, creator of salad, dies at 60," los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31) "discouraged by failure of the mexican government to lift the ban on border gambling, caesar cardini has closed his gay tijuana café forever."    "resort owner quits forever," reno evening gazette, july 1, 1936 (p. 2) "caesar now runs an italian grocery store on la ciegna boulevard, movietown's restaurant row. he's regaining his claim to the salad fame by manufacturing his caesar salad dressing in a tiny kitchen behind his store."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) vintage recipes several publications claim they have "the original" recipe. all of them are slightly different. our gastronomic guess says the simpler the recipe, the closer to the original. and? most definatley no anchovies! most probably worcestershire. there are no caesar salad (or approximations) recipes in these trendy southern california publications: corona club cook book [1925], ebell society cook book [1926] or fashions of foods in beverly hills [1931]. the oldest print recipe food historians have identified (based on ingredients & method) was published in sunset (magazine) march, 1945. curiously? it's called "romaine salad." no reference to caesar. the casual reader could easily miss the connection. the caesar dressing appears in the the brown derby cookbook/cobb [1949] but not the salad. we hypothosize this omission may be at testament to the salad's "star power." enjoying a caesar salad was a glamorous public event, complete with live tableside show. sunset cook book/annabel post [1960] mentions the march 1945 recipe but prints the 1957 version (with anchovies, p. 19). [1945] "down in coronado. california, there's a restaurant called la avenida cafe which is known as the 'home of the romaine salad.' small wonder, for the salad which is their specialite de la maison is a dish to tempt the epicure. here's the recipe as given us by s. jack clapp, who is la avenida's authority on such matters. romaine salad 3 or 4 heads chilled, crisp romaine 2 handfuls crisp croutons (little cubes of fried bread) 6 tablespoons garlic oil 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 6 heaping tablespoons greated parmesan type cheese 1 egg juice of 3 lemons break the romaine in to a salad bowl; add croutons, oil, seasonings, and cheese. break the raw egg over the salad, ten pour the lemon juice over the egg. toss all together lightly from the bottom, and serve. serves 6. regarding the ingredients, mr. clapp has this to say: romaine: purchase pale green heads. remove outer leaves, wash thoroughly, shake dry, and chill in refrigerator. garlic oil: chop or mash a clove of garlic and place in bottom of a pint jar. fill jar with any salad oil keep at kitchen temperature, and use as needed. use the oil only; don't add the garlic to the salad. olive oil: in the case of this particular salad, best results are obtained if only a part (4 tablespoons) of the oil used is olive oil. black pepper: if possible, grind it yourself with a pepper mill. use plenty. parmesan type cheese: ideally, this should be freshly grated. egg: the raw egg acts as a binder and causes the dressing to be evenly distributed through the salad. the flavor of the egg is not detectable in the finished salad. with the salad, mr. clapp suggests serving garlic toast. to make it, split french rolls, brush the cut surface with garlic oil, sprinkle with parmesan type cheese and paprika, and heat in the oven."    "a salad to remember," sunset, march 1945 (p. 27) [1947] "1701. caesar salad prepare 2 cups of fried croutons (no. 203) in garlic flavored olive oil. place in wooden salad bowl rubbed with garlic, 2 medium sized heads crisp chilled romain, leaves separated and broken. sprinkle over it 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 4 oz., grated parmesan or crumbled blue cheese. add 6 tablespoons pure olive oil and juice of 2 medium sized lemons. break 2 raw eggs over salad, toss and mix gently, until trace of eggs has disappeared and the leaves have absorbed all liquid. taste for seasoning. just before serving, add the fried croutons, mixing and tossing salad again, being careful croutons do not become soggy. make at table just before serving."    the gold cook book, luis p. degouy [gallahad books:new york] 1947 (p. 815) [1950] ceasar salad from the pump room of the ambassador hotel, chicago 1 coddled egg 2 cloves garlic 1/8 teaspoon bahama mustard 1 tablespoon parmesan cheese 3/4 cup croutons 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 whole anchovies 2 heads romaine cut croutons out of sliced bread 1/2" square. roast same in oven, brown crisp under broiler. take two heads of romaine and wash thoroughly. cut same crosswise about 1/2" wide. place in wooden bowl. choose another bowl for your dressing. in this bowl break up garlic with fork and rub sides of bowl with it. add black pepper, pinch of salt, worcestershire sauce, mustard, lemon juice and mix thoroughly. then, after adding olive oil, mix thoroughly again. add cut up anchovies. mix coddled eggs to greens in wooden bowl. add salad dressing from second bowl and toss slightly. add croutons and half the amount of cheese and toss again, lightly. place on salad plate and sprinkle with remaining cheese."    love and fishes, niccolo de quattrochiocchi [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1950 (p. 365 366) [note: this book is chock full of celebrity recipes.] [1952] "[caesar cardinis original recipe] romaine lettuce, a one minute egg, garlic croutons, parmesan or romano cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, whole pepper, pear vinegar and olive oil."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) [note: preparation/method notes are not offered.] [1952] "caesar salad crush a clove of garlic and add it to ¾ of a cup of olive oil. let stand overnight. brown 2 cups of croutons, made from stale sourdough french bread, in ¼ cup of this garlic oil, stirring them carefully so that they will color on all sides. drain on paper toweling. (or, if you prefer, merely toast the bread cubes brown in a slow oven.) now break 2 large or 3 small heads of romaine into a large bowl, grind on a good generous amount of fresh black pepper and add ½ teaspoon of salt, then dress with ½ cup of the garlic oil. turn the salad until every leaf is glossy with oil, then break 2 eggs, cooked one minute, plunk into the middle of the salad. now, before the mixing is resumed, squeeze the guide of a big fat lemon directly over the egg (if the lemon is small, use 1 ½ or even 2 of them!), and mix so that there is a thick creamy look to the lettuce. if you wish to include fillets of anchovies, and many say you must, here is where they are added 6 to 8, snipped into bits. now taste it, and don't hesitate to use your fingers. more salt? more lemon? add them, or vinegar if you wish, plenty of experts do so. (and others insist on a slug of worcestershire!) the seasoning is now as you want it, so a good ½ cup (at least) of grated parmesan is tossed in, the salad mixed some more, and finally the croutons are added, and the salad served at once so they won't become limp and soggy. like any salad of this kind, the artists adds (or subtracts) as he goes along, so caesar salad, as you make it, is all your own! serves a dozen, more or less. 1 clove garlic 2/4 cup olive oil 2 cups croutons 2 3 heads romaine ½ teaspoon salt pepper 2 eggs juice of a large lemon 6 8 fillets of anchovies (optional) ½ cup grated parmesan."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile 1952 edition [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308 309) [1956] "caesar salad 1 large head iceberg lettuce 1 large head romaine 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt dash of fresh ground pepper 1 raw egg 1/4 cup garlic wine vinegar 2 cups croutons sprinkle prepared greens with cheese. combine 1/4 cup salad oil with worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. toss lightly with greens until each piece is coated. break whole egg into greens, sprinkle with garlic wine vinegar, toss until all egg particles disappear. combine remaining oil and croutons, toss with salad. makes 8 servings."    "caesar salad featured by world famous restaurants," san mateo times, june 27, 1956 (p. 36) [1957] "caesar salad several chefs and restauranteurs claim to have originated this well known green salad. sunset first discovered the salad in a small coronado restaurant and first published the recipe in march 1945. no one seems to know whether it was created by, or for, a 'caesar.' this version was published in sunset in 1957. caesar salad is invariably tossed at the table, where everyone can watch the host or hostess season and mix the greens and drop in each additional ingredient. 1 clove garlic 3/4 cup olive or other salad oil 2 cups croutons 2 large heads romaine 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 2 eggs, cooked 1 monute juice of one large lemon 6 to 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese crush garlic in small bowl, pour over the oil, and let stand several hours. brown the croutons (preferably made from stale sourdough french bread) in 1/4 cup of the garlic oil, stirring often. (if you prefer, you can toast the bread cubes in a slow oven.) tear romaine into a large salad bowl, sprinkle with salt, and grind over a generous amount of pepper. pour over remaining garlic oil and toss until every leaf is glossy. break the 1 minute eggs into salad; squeeze over the lemon juice, and toss thorougly. add chopped anchovies and grated cheese, and toss again. lastly, add the croutons, toss genetly, and serve immediately. serves about 12."    the sunset cook book, annabel post, home economics editor [lane book company:menlo park ca] 1960 (p. 19) [1960] "the original caesar salad 3 medium heads romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp garlic flavored olive oil, about 1/3 cup wine vinegar, 2 to 3 tablespoons juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 1 minute coddled eggs freshly ground pepper dash worcestershire sauce grated parmesan cheese, 5 or 6 tablespoons caesar croutons, about 1 cup break romaine leaves into 2  to 3 inch widths. at last minute before serving, place romaine in chilled salad bowl drizzle the garlic oil over greens, then the vinegar. squeeze the lemon over, using a fork to help free the juice. break in the 1 minute eggs. grind a flurry of pepper over all. season with salt and a dash of worcestershire. sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese. roll toss 6 or 7 times, or until dressing is thoroughly combined and every leaf is coated. add caesar croutons; toss 2 or 2 times. serve at once on chilled dinner plates. if you like, garnish with rolled anchovies. makes 6 servings as main course. " "caesar croutons: cut each slice of bread in 5 strips one way, then across 5 times to make squares. spread out on cooky sheet; pour a little garlic flavored oil over. heat in extremely slow oven (225 degrees f.) 2 hours. the croutons should be so dry, they'd float on water! ten they'll stay crunch when tossed with the dressing and greens. sprinkle croutons with grated parmesan cheese. store in jar and refrigerate to keep crispness."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) caesar salad dressing this salad's special dressing plays center stage. there is no other option. of course? there are variations... [1949] "caesar dressing, serves 2 1 egg, coddled 1 minute 1 heaping tbs. grated parmesan cheese 4 tbsp. pastry cream 1/2 cup brown derby old fashioned french dressing place coddled egg in a mixing bowl, add cheese and pastry cream. blend well. slowly whip in french dressing. any salad mixed with this dressing should be garnished with garlic french bread croutons."    brown derby cookbook, robert h. cobb [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949(p. 69) commercial production notes when the legendary caesar salad was *invented* by mr. cardini in his tijuana eatery in the 1920s, he made the dressing from scratch. according to his obituary, mr. cardini actively promoted commercial manufacture of his famous salad dressing: "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he had lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted." source: los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31). according to the records of the u.s. patent and trademark office cardini's brand caesar salad dressing was introduced to the american public february 6, 1950: word mark cardini's goods and services (abandoned) ic 029. us 046. g & s: salad dressing and salad dressing mix. first use: 19500206. first use in commerce: 19780915 mark drawing code (1) typed drawing serial number 73426710 filing date may 19, 1983 current filing basis 1a original filing basis 1a owner (applicant) cardini, rosa sinan dba, caesar cardini foods individual united states 4020 sepulveda blvd. culver city california 90230 attorney of record r. welton whann type of mark trademark register principal live/dead indicator dead abandonment date july 5, 1984 [note: cardini's brand name dressing is still being made. the current trademark owner is t. marzetti company.] perhaps the convincing push mr. cardini needed to capitalize on his name was a reaction to another company which already started making caesar dressing in the late 1940s. the earliest print evidence we find for manufactured caesar salad dressing is this advertisment published in 1949; "milani's caesar dressing for caesar salads, 45 cents/6 oz bottle." source: chicago daily tribune, september 29, 1949 (p. 9) green goddess dressing food historians generally credit philip roemer, chef of the palace hotel in san francisco, for the creation of green goddess salad dressing. it was allegedly made in honor of george arliss, an actor starring in a play by that same name. the year is fuzzy because the play ran in the 1920s followed by a popular film version in the 1930s. our survey of historic american cookbooks confirms mayonnaise based salad dressing recipes proliferated during the early decades of the 20th century. in fact? entire books were devoted to salads at that time. we examined several books and found several recipes for mayonnaise tarragon anchovy dressings onion dressings. given the noteriety of green goddess, it seems surprising to find recipes named such first surfacing in the late 1930s early 1940s. sometimes they are called "green dressing." "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1931] "green goddess salad dressing one cup mayonnaise, garlic, 1 tablespoon french dressing, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chives chopped fine, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 4 fillets of anchoves.   la casa pico tea room"    fashions in foods in beverly hills, compiled by the book section beverly hills womans club [beverly hills], 3rd edition 1931 (p. 26) [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; when and where did tossed or mixed salad begin? excellent question. the answer depends (in part) on how you define tossed greens/mixed salad. food historians tell us rudimentary mixed (several types of greens) salads were known to neolithic peoples. salads composed of fresh mixed greens dressed in vinegar and spices were enjoyed by ancient romans. this culinary tradition survived from european medieval times to the very end of the 19th century. some cuisines preferred warm salads, others, cold. in the late 19th century (usa) the domestic science/home economics movement took hold. they considered tossed plates of mixed greens "messy" and eschewed them in favor of "orderly presentations." salad ingredients were painstakingly separated, organized, and "glued together" with mayonnaise or gelatin. molded gelatin salads proliferated because they offered maximum control. enter: tossed salad our survey of american cookbooks and newspapers confirms mixed, tossed salads regained popularity in the 1930s. home economists promoted fresh vegetables as important (inexpensive) dietary supplement during the great depression. coincidentally? this is when atrfully crafted large wooden salad bowls were introduced. overnight? tossing salad in front of company became trendy. wooden salad bowls remain popular today. [1934] "a salad bowl salad don't always hide the secrets of your salad making within the four walls of your kitchen. sometimes carry all the "fixins" right to the table in a big roomy wooden or china bowl or even a gay kitchen mixing bowl and toss and serve there. to the greens in the salad bowl  a mixture of them is always nice  you may add rosy red radishes, whole or in slices; crisp cucumber, thinly sliced; tender young scallions; asparagus, cooked, chilled and cut in suitable pieces; thin green pepper rings; crisp celery; ripe, green or stuffed olives; or tomatoes, cubed or sliced. a lone strip of cold bacon may be cut in small pieces and added. and toss in that one cold potato, cut in cubes, or the spoonful of peas or string beans, or the one remaining stalk of asparagus. slices of hard cooked egg or pieces of cold meat, chicken or fish, contribute to a hearty salad too. and cheese either cubed, sliced or broken in pieces is always a welcome addition to the salad bowl. the mellow flavor of avocado adds much to the fruit salad look especially when raw strawberries, halves of cooked prunes, sections of orange, pineapple or grapefruit, fresh or canned are combined with it! and don't froget the grapes. such combinations as the above tossed and turned in a well seasoned french or mayonnaise dressing make a salad fit for the gods. and don't forget to cut a peeled bud of garlic rubbed on the inside of your salad bowl or dropped into your french dressing for a short time is a favorite seasoning to many."    good housekeeping cook book, dorothy b. marsh et al [good housekeeping:new york] 2nd edition, 1934 (p. 60) tuna salad culinary evidence (old cookbooks, menus etc.) confirms meat (ham) and mayonnaise type salads were popular in america from colonial times present. these were culinary traditions brought to our shores by european (esp. german) settlers. lobster and chicken salads were most common and extremely popular in the mid late 19th century. tuna salad is an early twentieth century recipe. why? because canned tuna was first introduced and mass marketed to the american public in 1903. american cookbooks in the 1930s and 1940s offer tuna salad recipes as alternatives to salads made from chicken and turkey. one might conclude this fishy substitution was not immediately embraced on its own merits. "tuna salad popular. in california the tuna is beign introduced generallly in the best restaurants, not only because it is new, but becuase people are beginning to value it for what it is. tuna salads are getting to be popular. the housekeeper can prepare the fish in a dozen different ways."    "tuna now popular fish food," christian science monitor, february 19, 1913 (p. 11) here is an early recipe: [1916] tuna fish salad 1 can tuna fish shredded lettuce salt and red pepper to taste 1 tablespoonful vinegar 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice mayonnaise dressing 1 tablespoonful capers 1 hard cooked egg 2 or 3 stuffed olives. line a salad dish with shredded lettuce. break the fish into pieces and place it on top of the lettuce. mix the salt, red pepper, lemon juice, and vinegar toghether and pour over the fish. chill, and when ready to serve, decorate with the capers, slices of hard cooked egg, and the stuffed olives. service with mayonnaise dressing. another method.  flake one can of tuna fish with a silver fork, add one and one half cupful of diced celery and one half cupful of broken english walnut meats, mix with mayonnaise  or boiled dressing. serve on crisp lettuce leaves."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion h. neil [1916] (p. 245 6) waldorf salad "waldorf salad...the dish was supposedly created by maitre d'hotel oscar tschirky of the waldorf astoria hotel in new york city, which opened in 1893. by 1896, when tschirky compiled the cook book by 'oscar of the waldorf,' the recipe  given without comment  called for only apples, celery, and mayonnaise, and the salad later became a staple item in most hotel dining rooms and other restaurants. at some point in the next two decades chopped walnuts were added, for they are listed by george rector in the ingredients for the salad in the rector cook book, which appeared in 1928, after which walnuts became standard in the recipe, including the one give in the waldorf astoria cookbook [1981], by ted james and rosalind cole."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 343) "waldorf salad...oscar tschirky...created this salad for a 'society supper' to which 1,500 persons came from boston, baltimore, and philadelphia...for sheila hibben, food editor of the new yorker, his creation was a mixed blessing. she thought his combination of apples and mayonnaise headed american housewives in the wrong direction 'and bred the sorry mixture of sweet salads' that remain very much on the gastronomical scene..."    american food: the gastronomic story, evan jones [vintage:new york] 1981, 2nd ed. (p. 398) "this american classic first was introduced at the old waldorf hotel in new york. oddly, it was an off the cuff creation by the maitre d'hotel, oscar tschirky, rather than an inspiration of the chef."    "apples fill a variety of culinary needs and are available all year long," peter kump, chicago tribune, february 15, 1990, 11a the original recipe waldorf salad peel two raw apples and cut them into small pieces, say about half and inch square, also cut some celery the same way, and mix it with the apple. be very careful not to let any seeds of the apples be mixed with it. the salad must be dressed with a good mayonnaise.    the cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, oscar tschirky [saafield publishing company:chicago] 1908 , copyright 1896 (p. 433) watergate salad & cake pistachios have been enjoyed since the beginning of time. they have generally considered luxury items. in the 20th century, technological advances made them more accessible to home cooks. culinary evidence confirms these nuts were most often used to flavor ice creams and parfaits. they were also sometimes used in pates, salads (toppings, molded in combination with other ingredients gelatine), baked goods, and candy. notes on pistachios and their use in cookery here. although salads and cakes made flavored with pistachios date back to the early 20th century, culinary evidence connects the recipes we know today as watergate salad and watergate cake to the kraft company, dating from the mid 1970s. why the kraft connection? both recipes use pistachio instant pudding mix, which was introduced by kraft foods in 1975. why watergate? the answer seems obvious to everyone who knows a little about american political events during that time period. interestingly enough, it has yet to be confirmed. the kraft does not take credit for the name. in fact? no one does. we do know that in 1973 two tongue in cheek "watergate" cookbooks were published: the watergate cookbook, n.y. alplaus [emporium publications:charlestown ma] and the watergate cookbook (or, who's in the soup?), the commitee to write the cookbook [new lone star press:cambridge ma]. these were apparently inpired by tom donnelly's article "serve hot, the county the silver," published earlier that year in the washington post. neither of these books, nor donnelley's article, contain recipes for watergate salad or watergate cake. "we developed the recipe for pistachio pineapple delight," says pat risso of kraft corporate affairs. "it was in 1975, the same year that pistachio pudding mix came out."the company, however, didn't suggest serving the dessert as a salad or change the name. as a matter of fact, the company didn't refer to it at all as watergate salad until consumers started requesting a recipe for watergate salad. the answer from an e mail query to http://www.kraftfoods.com got a little warmer. "according to kraft kitchens, when the recipe for pistachio pineapple delight was sent out, a chicago food editor renamed it watergate salad to promote interest in the recipe when she printed it in her column," the response came back. a call to carol haddix, food editor of the chicago tribune, got a quick response. "never heard of it," she said. a half dozen calls to former chicago food editors, publicists and retired kraft kitchens personnel also hit dead ends."    the proof is in the pudding; crashing watergate, louis mahoney; the richmond times dispatch, august 4, 1999 (p. f 1) watergate salad was reportedly named by a chicago food editor for an article, but neither the article nor editor has been tracked down. the full name of the cake is watergate cake with coverup icing."    trivia, rogers cadenhead, knight ridder newspapers, the record (bergen county, nj) march 15, 2000 "new flavors in 1976 were americana rice pudding and pistachio instant pudding. popular recipes were pudding in a cloud and, in 1981, watergate salad (pistachio and pineapple)." the history of jell o, kraft food company."    from kraft's old web site (not included in current pages) watergate salad of course, very few recipes are *invented* overnight. they are usually variations on popular food that have beens served for years. "pistachio nut  a native of central asia and member of the cashew family, the pistachio nut...has been cultivated for some 3,000 years and has a long history of popularity in the mediterranean world. but it was not until the 1930s with the advent of vending machines, that pistachio nuts (also called pistache) imported from italy became something of a rage in the united states as a snack food."    the cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas, volume 2, (p.1835) "it was in 1929 that american plant scientist william e. whitehouse spent a lonely six months in persia (modern day iran), collecting seed and sifting through piles of produce to find the most distinctive pistachios. he returned carrying a burlap sack 20 pounds heavy with seed." california pistachio commission "[1901] dole's company becomes hawaiian pineapple company and is incorporated in this year. james dole becomes known as "the pineapple king," because he was able to successfully grow and harvest this crop that had failed so many others. his company puts canned pineapple in every grocery store in the country and makes the name "hawaiian" almost synonymous with "pineapple." dole company molded salads combining all sorts of ingredients (especially mini marshmallows) were all the rage in the 1920s. the history of jell 0. jell o instant puddings were test marketed in 1950. the oldest recipe we found specifically titled "watergate salad" is this: [1975] "watergate salad 1 (20 ounce) can crushed pineapple (undrained) 1 box instant pistachio pudding mix 1 1/2 cups small marshmallows 1 (9 ounce) box whipped topping mix 1 cup or less walnuts or pecans mix undrained pineapple with pudding by pouring pudding into pineapple. stir. add rest of ingredients. stir by hand. chill before serving. c.k."    "anne's reader exchange," washington post, november 13, 1975 (p. c17) watergate cake "a new watergate crisis is sweeping the washington area, but this time only homemakers and a few business men seem to care... the crisis stems from the growing popularity of a recipe for a concoction called "watergate cake," which demands large quantities of powdered pistachio pudding mix, both in the layer cake and in its light green icing. apparently, only one firm, royal pudding, a division of standard brands, inc., distributes pistachio pudding in the washington area. supermarkets haven't been able to get engouh to cope with the demands, which began around thanksgiving time and was very heavy at christmas. store shelves have been regularly stripped of the mix the same day it is displayed...if the sales spurt is not directly attributable to the popularity of watergate cake... "the we don't knoe why this product has suddenly taken off. it's been just phenomenal..." barry scher, a spokesman for giant foods, placed the blame not only on the recipe, but also on a coincidental shortage of pistachio nuts. "that was about five months abo, the spokesman said, "and as it ended, this recipe began circulating around. we were bombarded. we hate to admit it, but we just can't keep the mix on the shelf. the onset of watergate cake mania  and the resulting effort to close the supply demand gap   has tested old friendships and challenged the ingenuity and competitive instincts of many a washington area homemaking... no one, meanwhile, seems able to pinpoint the origin of this watergate, the recipe for which has appeared in a number of newspapers, including the washington post. nor can anyone explain how the cake got its name or why pistachio is the main flavoring. one current explanation leans on the presence of crushed walnuts in the cake  "bugs" in the parlance of kids. like the giant spokesman, harold giesinger, proprietor of the watergate pastry shop, had no thoughts on where the recipe originated   except that it was not with his bakery. "we haven't invented anything to which we'd attach a name like that," he said. nor, he added, does his shop rely on pistachio as a key ingredient in any of its products. "a private source may have put it together, " he said of the recipe. wherever watergate cake started, the pudding firm would like more more problems like it. gagan suspects some people have been buying more pistachio pudding mix than they'll ever use, simply becuase it's hard to get...further relief is in sight. another manufacturer, general foods, scanning the watergate assisted pistachio market, has decided to jump in. its version is expected to hit the supermarket shelves in march..."    "a watergate cake mania," alexander sullivan, washington post, february 26, 1976 (p. b2) [recipe included, see below 1976] "according to my sister in law who lives in waynesboro, virginia, the name of the cake became prominent in that part of the country because  nixon liked pistachio nuts, hence (and a rather far fetched reasoning) the name for the watergate cake, because synonymous with  pistachio nuts, mrs. nixon and watergate. i had neither heard of pistachio pudding or the watergate cake until last fall we stopped to visit them, and she had the cake all ready for us to eat. however, her recipe is much different than the one printed in the washington post thursday in your column. sincerely yours, virginia k. wiszneauckas, wheaton, md."    "that cake," washington post, march 11, 1976 (p. va2) the earliest recipe we find for pistachio cake also employs a packaged cake mix. note! this is "mock pistachio"! [1962] pistachio almond into [angel food mix] cake batter, fold a few drops green food color, 1/4 teasp. almond extract, 3/4 minced, blanched almonds."    good housekeeping cook book, dorothy b. marsh [good housekeeping:new york] 1962 (p. 457) compare with these: [1975] "watergate cake 1 box white cake mix 1 box pistachio instant pudding 1 cup vegetable oil 1 cup club soda 3 eggs 1/2 cup chopped walnuts mix all ingredients well (4 to 4 minutes). bake in 12 by 9 inch greased pan for 45 minutes at 350 degrees. topping for cake 1 box pistachio instant pudding 1/4 cup cold milk 1 (9 ounce) box whipped topping mix nut meats and maraschino cherries beat milk into instant pudding mix. prepare topping mix according to instructions on box. fold into pudding mixture. spread oncake and top with nuts and cherries. c.s.r. arlington."    "anne's reader exchange," washington post, november 13, 1975 (p. c17) [1976] watergate cake 1 (3 1/2 ounce) box instant pistachio pudding 1 box white cake mix (any brand) 1 cup vegetable oil 1/2 cup walnuts 1 cup ginger ale 3 eggs mix together  any order bake at 350 degrees  30 to 40 minutes. it isn't necessary to grease the pan. icing one large or two small containers frozen whipped topping 1 box instant pistachio pudding 1 1/2 cups milk mix together until smooth. top off with nuts, coconuts or cherries. lovely to look at and very moist."    "a watergate cake mania," alexander sullivan, washington post, february 26, 1976 (p. b2) [1976] "here is a fantastic cake recipe that i like to prepare for special occasions," writes nels wenman. "it was sent to me by a cousin in arizona." watergate cake with cover up icing 1 (18 1/2 ounce) package white cake mix 1 (3 1/2 ounce) package instant pistachio pudding mix 3 eggs, unbeaten 3/4 cup oil 1 cup lemon lime carbonated beverage cover up icing 3/4 cup shredded coconut 1 cup finely chopped pecans combine cake mix, pudding mix, eggs, oil and lemon lime in a bowl. beat until well blended. pour into a greased and floured 13x9 inch pan and bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes. cool. spread with cover up icing and sprinkle with coconut and pecans. cover up icing 2 (1 1/2 ounce) envelopes nondairy whipped topping mix 1 1/2 cups milk 1 (3 1/2 ounce) package instant pistachio pudding mix beat whipped topping mix, milk and pudding mix together until smooth and thick."    "my best recipe," los angeles times, june 17, 1976 (p. h6) where do pistachios come from? "pistachio, pistacia vera, a small tree native to parts of west asia and the levant between turkey and afghanistan, bears nuts which have for long been highly prized. the earliest traces of pistachios being eaten in turkey and the middle east date back to about 7000bc; and the species has been cultivated and improved during serveral millenia...pistachio trees were introduced from asia to europe in the 1st century ad, by the romans."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 610) "pistachio...the word originated in persian as pistah, and reached the west via greek pistakion. english originally borrowed it from french as pistace."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 258) "pistachio nut. a native of central asia and member of the cashew family, the pistachio nut has been cultivated for some 3,000 years and has a long history of popularity in the mediterranean world. but it was not until the 1930s, with the advent of vending machines, that pistachio nuts (also called pistache) imported from italy became something of a rage in the united states as a snack food...following world war ii, the evergreen trees that bear pistachios were imported to california, and although the imported nuts are still dyed, most american grown pistachios are sold without dye, in naturally tan shells."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000 volume 2 (p. 1835) "the dying of pistachios is not a middle eastern tradition but is said to have originated with a brooklyn street vendor named zaloom who colored his pistachios red to distinguish them from his competitors. the idea caught on  especially in the east  that most pistachios used to be dyed red. this is no longer true, with only about 15 percent of those sold today so colored."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 243) pistachio cookery "this pistachio, with its unique color and mild but distinctive flavour, has always been a luxury, costing three or four times as much as other nuts. it is generally eaten roasted and salted as a dessert nut. in cooking it is often used as a garnish or decoration, both in sweet and savory dishes. for example, it figures in in some of the finest pilaf dishes and in european pates and brawns which are served in slices, so that the nuts appear as attractive green specs or slivers."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 610) "in mediterranean and oriental cooking, pistachios are used in poultry sauces and stuffings and also in hash. in classic cuisine they garnish galantines, brawn (head cheese) and mortadella. in india pistachio puree is used to season rice and vegetables. pistachios go best with veal, pork and poultry. their green color (often accentuated artificially) makes them popular for creams (especially for filling cakes, such as the galacien) and for ice creams and ice cream desserts. in confectionery it is especially associated with nougat."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 900) lettuce arugula & rocket...chicory...iceberg lettuce... lamb's lettuce...romaine lettuce...water cress the food historians and linguists tell us lettuce was [most likely] first cultivated by the ancient greeks, possibly as early as the 6th century bc. there is some controversy regarding the date because there were several ancient plants fitting the description of lettuce at that time. "wild lettuce was gathered for millennia by hunter gatherers and was still being gathered by humans at the time of the ancient greeks. the latter probably began its cultivation, which was continued by the roman. the first cultivated letuuce was lactuca serriola, which is native to the mediterranean region."    the cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1801) "the ancient greeks and romans cultivated the lettuce, especially as a salad. in the east its cultivation possible dates from an earlier epoch. nevertheless it does not appear, from the original common names both in asia and europe, that this plant was generally or very anciently cultivated. there is no sanskrit nor hebrew name known, nor any in the reconstructed aryan tongue. a greek name exists, tridax; latin, latuca; persian and hindu, kahn; and the analogous arabic form chuss or chass. the latin form exists also, slightly modified, in the slav and germanic languages, which may indicate either that the western aryans diffused the plant, or that its cultivation spread with its name at a later date from the south to the north of europe. dr. bretscheider has confirmed by supposition that the lettus is not very ancient in china, and that it was introduced there from the west. he says that the first work in which it is mentioned dates from a.d. 600 to a.d. 900."    origin of cultivated plants, alphonse de candole [hafner publishing company:new york] 1964 (p. 96) "other new roman arrivals [to britain] were the garden varieties of a number of green vegetables, among them cabbage, beet, mallows, orache (atriplex), lettuce and endive..."    food and drink in britain from the stone age to the 19th century, c. anne wilson [academy broadway:chicago il] 1991 (p. 195) "lettuce..was introduced to britain by the romans, who commonly ate it cooked rather than raw. this tradition continued into and beyond the middle ages...but by the seventeeth century the memory of it was dying out (john eveyln...in his aceteria is extravagant in his praise of lettuce as a raw salad vegetable, but of cooked lettuce he notes only as an afterthought."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 189) lettuce in america "england had cultivated lettuce as of the fifteenth century, but christopher columbus may have been the first to bring it to america. lettuce was grown only in home gardens until the twentienth century, when americans' new appetite for salad made commercial production profitable."    encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 183) "both leaf and head lettuces were commonly grown in colonial and early american times. lettuce was highly perishable and was available only locally in season. however, lettuce became more readily availble in the twentieth century with the development of crisphead lettuce (iceberg is the most familiar). with sturdy leaves forming a compact, round head, these lettuces can be transported over long distances without damage. distributed by railroad from california and arizona, lettuce becmae an important year round food in america. during the 1920s and 1930s its production doubled."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 32) romaine lettuce salads made with romaine lettuce (also known as cos lettuce) were known in the united states by 1880s. romaine was used as both base and in combination with other leafy greens. our cookbooks do not specify this type of lettuce but the recipes below do. of course, this is not a definate indicator that romaine was enjoyed by all classes of people in all parts of the country. we can presume romaine was appreciated by the wealthy based on its appearance on a menu served at the harvard club's dinner in 1895 (nyt, february 22, 1895, p. 3). note: this romaine and lettuce salad was served in the classic european fashion, towards the end of the meal, just before the dessert course. [1877] "salad a la romaine. freshen two heads of lettuce in plenty of cold water. when about to serve mix in a bowl three tablespoonfuls of oil, one of lemon juice, one third of a small onion grated, inch of cayenne, white pepper and salt to taste, and a small pinch of powdered sugar: break the lettuce into the bowl; well mix, turn into the salatiere, garnish with hard boiled eggs, and serve."    "receipts for the table," new york times, january 28, 1877 (p. 9) [note: this recipe does not specify the type of lettuce to be used. "heads" imply standard usa lettuce, not the more leafy romaine.] [1886] "there is another kind [of lettuce], high in favor in paris and in some localities in this country for its tenderness and delicate flavor, but not liked by marketmen, because it will not bear rough handling. the time will come, however, when there will be such a demand for this species that all first class provision dealers will keep it. the french call it romaine, and in this country it is sometimes called roman lettuce. it does not head. the leaves are strng and not handsome whole; but one who uses the lettuce never wishes for any other."    miss parloa's new cook book, a guide to marketing and cooking, maria parloa [estes and lauriat::boston ma] 1886 (p. 52) arugula & rocket arugula (aka rocket) is an "old world" cruciferous plant. the leaves have been used for centuries in salads. they have a tangy, mustardy flavor, which makes the salad interesting in flavor and texture. americans "discovered" this tasty green in the 1990s. "the rocket is a eurasian plant with spicily hot tasting dandelion shaped leaves that are used in salads. it has become much more widely known in britain following the salad revolution of the late twentieth century. the name rocket comes via french roquette from italian ruchetta, a diminutive form of ruca, which in turn comes from latin eurca. this meant literally caterpillar', and was applied to the plant because of its hairy stems. it may have been derived from er, hedgehog'."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 284) "rocket, eruca sativa, a plant which grows wild in asia and the mediterranean region, has been introduced elsewhere, including n. america (where it is known by its italian name, arugula), and cultivated for use as a salad plant. its flavour, akin to that of horseradish or some sorts of cress, is strong in mature leaves, so these are added to salads with discretion. young leaves may be used freely. their popularity as a smart ingredient in western restaurants may obscure then fact that they are grown and liked in some places, e.g. the north of sudan...in classical rome the plant was cultivated both for its leaves and for its seeds, used as a flavouring. the seeds can also be used to produce and oil."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 667) "arugula also known as "rocket" and "garden rocket," this native of europe and western asia...is a cruciferous plant that has long provided tender, slightly bitter, mustard flavoured greens for the salad bowls of southern europeans and italian americans. lately, it has become widely available in the united states, where it has been naturalized. its leaves resemble those of the radish, which is a close relative. the seeds of arugula are also eaten, and they yield an oil that is used for culinary puroses, as a lubricant, and in medicines."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenlas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1722) "rocket, salad vegetable, one of the best native mediterranean species. rocket was grown in classical greek kitchen gardens and was equally familiar to romans. apart from the use of the leaf, rocket seed is called for as a culinary spice in apicus. rocket had an enduring reputation among aphrodesiacs...because of this reputation rocket was often served at dinners mixed with lettuce, an antaphrodesiac, so that their qualities would conteract one another."    food in the ancient world from a to z, andrew dalby [routledge:london] 2003 (p. 282) arugula & rocket in the usa based on the number of print newspaper references per decade "arugula" gained marked interest in the 1990s and became popular in the 2000s. the plant was known, but not particularly favored, from colonial times forward. presumably, this accounts for the dearth of references & recipes. [1911] "rocket: a rather coarse garden plant whose young leaves are occasionally used as a pot herb or for salads. the flowers resemble orange blossoms in odor."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [national grocer:new york] 1911 (p. 532) [1919] "b. vulgaris...rocket. winter cress. yellow rocket. europe and temperate asia. this herb of northern climates have been cultivated in england for a long time and as an early salad and also in scotland, where the bitter leaves are eaten by some. in early times, rocket was held in some repute but is now banished from cultivation yet appears in gardens as a weed...rocket is included in the list of american garden esculents by mcmahon in 1806. in 1832, bridgeman says winter cress is used as a salad in spring and autumn and by some boiled as a spinage."    sturtevant's notes onf edible plants, edited by u.p. hedrick, report of the new york agricultural experiment station for the year 1919 ii [j.b. lyon company:albany ny] 1919 (p. 82) [138] "roquette. this is a salad vegetable resembling cress in taste. it is served as a salad in the same manner, and is very popular with the creoles."    the original picayune creole cook book, 9th edition [times picayune publishing co.:new orleans la] 1938 227) [1960] "it would seem almost impossible that the most appealing and relatively abundant salad green could be available in new york and yet be relatively unknown. but there is one, and it leads to the suspicion that there may be more. the one in question has more names than joseph's coat has colors. the fact of the matter is that this green with the pungent and fascinatinf flavor goes by different names from one market to the next. ask italian green grocers for arugula, rucola or ruccoli; ask other markets for rouquette, rocket salad or, simply, rocket...most italian chefs know...that arugula or rocket...is the secret ingredient in many of their salads about town. considering the public unawareness of the plant, it has an astonishing availability...new york does not have a corner on the vegetable's availability in the united states. rocket salad is tremendously popular in the creole country of louisiana."    "food news: a green by any name," craig claiborne, new york times may 24, 1960 (p. 33) chickory salad green, cooked vegetable, and (when times are tough) coffee substitue. "chicory. semantic problems abound with chicory (cichorium intybus)  also called succory, radicchio, and red chicory), endive...and escarole, which is the broad leafed variety of endive. all three are members of the dandelion family, but there the resemblance ends. cichoirum endivia, native to india, was the ancestor of endive and known to the egyptians as well as to the ancient greeks and romans. by contrast, c. indybus is native to europe, but the names nonetheless remain confused. in the united states, chicory is generally called belgian edive, although this is also referred to simply as endive. the french, too, call it endive...and radicchio is chicory's italian name...chicory as well as endive roots are ground to become a natural coffee substitute...or in addition to regular coffee for added flavor and reduced caffeine. however, the tight hearts of belgian endive and radicchio are also attractive and slightly bitter ingredients in salads; in addition, their braised leaves can be a vegetable dish in their own right."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge unviersity press:cambridge] volume two, 2001 (p. 1753) "chicory...decribes a group of perennial cultivated plants developed from wild chicory, a common plant of europe, w. asia, and africa...chicory was used as a vegetable and for salad in classical greece and rome, but was not apparently cultivated. the leaves of the wild plant are not too bitter if gathered young. from the 16th century onwards modern cultivated forms, with larger and less bitter leaves, were developed...the practice of taking up chicory plants in the autumn, cutting off their leaves, and replanting the roots in a dark cellar so that they regrow small, white leaves originated in france. the original french variety called, like the wild plant, barbe de capucin is unusual in that the roots are replanted on their sides in angled banks and the shoots grow horizontally. around 1850 a belgian grower, experimenting with uses for old musroom compost, discovered the superior cigar shaped form witloof...the large rooted variety of chicory which is used as a coffee substitute was developed in holland during the second half of the 18th century, when coffee was newly fashionable and very expensive. all over europe people experimented with substitutes: grains, figs, acorns, and all kinds of root, especially dandelion and chicory. chicory was judged the most acceptable."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 167 8) "chicory can be served raw in salads  with vinaigrette and often with hard boiled (hard cooked) eggs and any of the various ingredients used in winter salads, including beetroot (red beets), apples, nuts, cheese and orange or grapefruit quarters. for cooked dishes, chicory heads are braised and drained; they can then be coated with bechamel sauce, sprinkled with noisette butter, served with gravy or with plain butter and herbs topped with grated cheesse and browned, or made into a puree. they can be served as an accompaniement to roasts and poultry. they can also be braised, made into a chiffanade or prepared as fritters (espsecially when served with fish). as a main dish, chicory is braised rolled in slices of ham and coated with a port and raisin sauce, or stuffed (with a fatty or lean stuffing) and browned on top."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 278) "chicory. american nomenclature is very confusing for this salad green called cichorium intybus, with its curly leaves and bright blue flowers...chicory is quite bitter and is often mixed with other salad greens. the same plant's roots are dried and ground into a granular powder, often referred to as "succory," that resembles coffee and is used as an additive to or substitute for real coffee in creole and cajun cooking, a legacy of the french influence on these cuisines...adding chicory to coffee began in new orleans during the food scarce civil war."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 73 4) lamb's lettuce (mache, cornsalad) "lamb's lettuce is a small plant of the genus valerianella with soft long roundish leaves eaten raw in salads. it has been known in britain for many centuries (john gerard mentions it in his herbal, 1597), but it was only in the 1980s, whith an increasing interest in exploring a wider range of salad leaves, that it started to become widely available commercially (the french, who call it mache, have always known its worth). the origins of its name, which may be a translation of latin latuca agnina, are not known for certain, but it presumably reflects a supposed partiality of lambs for the leaves. an alternative name, used particuarly for the wild variety, is corn salad, an allusion to the plant's commonly grown in corn fields."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 184) ""cornsalad," so named because these plants with small, bluish flowers grow in cornfields, actully refers to any of several plants of the genus valerianella...these european natives  found throughout north america as well  provide slightly bitter tasting leaves that are much appreciated in salads. the various types of cornsalad were considered weeds until the seventeenth century, when they began to be cultivated, and cultivation doubtless accounts for the different varieties now identified... common names and synonyms: european cornsalads, fat hen, field salad, hog salad, lamb's lettuce, lamb's quarter, mache...marsh salad."    world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2001, volume two (p. 1763) "lamb's lettuce. a plant with rounded leaves in a rosette form, which is usually eaten raw in a salad. it is also known...in france, as mache, doucette, valerianelle potagere, raiponce, and oreielle de lievre. it grows wild in fields, usually in autumn, but is cultivated in france from september to march and gives a good flavour to a winter salad. there are several varieties..."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 668) caesar salad simple, elegant, inexpensive, and famous. what more could a chef ask for? american cookbooks confirm chefs were serving artfully cut lettuce coated in french dressing in fancy restaurants from the late 19th century forwards. what makes caesar salad different? a memorable origination story (or two or three) and documented hollywood flair. "and now we come to it  the most talked of salad of a decade, perhaps of the century. like all recipes that have become widely known, several chefs and restaurateurs have claimed to have originated the salad. actually many of them have had a hand in promoting it, though not necessarily as a caesar. as for its origin, the best guess seems to be that the whole thing started in tia juana, during prohibition, but whether it was actually created by one named 'caesar,' or just named for him, is a matter of considerable discussion. the salad is at its best when kept simple, but as it is invariably made at table, and sometimes by show offs, it occasionally contains far too many ingredients."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile reprint [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308) classic theory of origin: "caesar salad. a salad of romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese, worcestershire sauce, and, often, anchovies. it was created by caesar cardini, an italian immigrant who opened a series of restaurants in tijuana, mexico...on fourth of july weekend in 1924 at caesar's palace, cardini concocted the salad as a main course, arranging the lettuce leaves on a plate with the intention that they would be eaten with their fingers. later cardini shredded the leaves into bite sized pieces. the salad became particularly popular with hollywood movie people who visited tijuana, and it became a featured dish at chasen's and romanoff's in los angeles."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 50 51) [note: most sources cite the restaurant as cesar's (or caesar's) place.] "it was an accident! but now caesar salad is tossed in handsome salad bowls, coast to coast and on purpose! a well known restaurateur, caesar cardini, concocted this zesty salad some 35 years ago at tijuana, mexico. here is the true story, told to us by his daughter rosa. one holiday weekend a throng of tourists descended on caesar's place. a few crates of romaine, half a case of eggs, a wheel of italian cheese, some lemons, and dry bread that was all the food left by sunday morning. what to do for the hungry crowd at dinner? caesar thought he'd have to close shop for the remainder of the holiday. instead he decided to invent a new salad form the ingredients he had on hand. he got out the eggs, the lemons, the parmesan cheese, the bread, and the big bottle of olive oil to which he previously had added garlic. with the romaine lettuce as the only greens, he experimented with a little of this and that in the dressing. finally, to bind the dressing ingredients together, he came up with the idea of coddling the eggs for a minute, then tossing them with the salad. (yes, that's right the original caesar salad was not made with completely raw eggs.) the loaves of bread he cut in tiny cubes and slowly oven toasted them to add to his salad at the very end. (the anchovies, now a familiar ingredient in caesar salad, didn't become part of the recipe until some 10 years later.) while the waiters kibitzed, caesar demonstrated his creation. 'take everything to each table,' he instructed, 'and make a ceremony of fixing the salad. plenty of fanfare. let guests think they're having the specialty of the house.' and the guests did! so rapidly did the news of this remarkable salad spread, that diners flocked to caesar's place just to learn the recipe. soon west coast restaurants adopted it; then it appeared on the finest menus in every state. caesar cardini's reward? in paris at the 1951 meeting of the international society of epicures, his salad was acclaimed the greatest recipe contribution of the united states in 50 years. but it was really at tijuana, mexico that the now world famous caesar salad was born. you'll find many variations of caesar salad, but here rosa cardini, who operates the food specialty shop her father started in los angeles and who bottles the original caesar salad dressing, share his authentic recipe and salad know how."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) story 2: "it has been fairly well established that the late caesar cardini created the caesar salad at hist restaurant in tijuana, mexico. or did he? the latest word is that an italian woman named beatriz santini composed the salad in austria in 1918. hard put for food in a country impovershed by war, she soft boiled eggs, which were plentiful, and added them to a bowl of romaine lettuce. a little parmesan cheese, a dressing of wine vinegar and olive oil, and the creation was complete. cardini never met santini. so how did he come up with the same idea? he didn't, we are told. the link was santini's son, livio, who emigrated to tijuana. livio santini got a job with cardini, who had opened a bar and restaurant on second street about 1924. one day, a hungry santini mixed up a bit of his mother's salad. a wealthy customer from la jolla invaded the kitchen as santini was crunching romaine, and she asked for a taste. it pleased her so that she ordered a serving from cardini, who came out to find what santini was eating. one week later, the salad was on the menu, ceremoniously mixed at table side by a captain and busboy. thus, the start of the cardini legend. the teller of this tale was no tale spinner. it was livio santini himself. now 78, santini was a guest of honor at tijuana's recent first caesar salad celebration."   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) story 3: "sr. alex cardini, of cardini's restaurant in mexico city, affirms that he invented the original caesar salad in 1926, naming it after his brother."    a world of vegetable cookery, alex d. hawkes [simon and schuster:new york] 1968 (p. 138) the anchovy debate: food historians agree anchovies were not part of the original recipe. these salty fillets infiltrate in the 1930s. "cardini was adamant in insisting that the salad be subtly flavored and argued against the inclusion of anchovies, whose faint flavor in his creation he believed may have come from the worcestershire sauce. he also decreed that only italian olive oil and imported parmesan cheese be used."    encyclopedia of american food and drink (p. 51) "according to santini...his mother used no anchovies, no lime or lemon juice and no croutons in her salad...the controversial anchovy, acknowledged by either beatriz santini nor caesar cardini, wound up on several salads.".   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) "the shocking truth is that while a proper caesar always has anchovy, an authentic one never does. in its original form, caesar salad was more a culinary tourist trap than a great american food standard, famous for the tableside show that came with the salad, not the anchovy. yet it is the anchovy that most caesar aficionados consider vital; only caesar wimps ask for their salad sans the small fry. so where did the anchovy come from?...the most common theory involves worcestershire sauce. the thinking is that someone, somewhere along the way...ran out of worcestershire sauce...saw anchovy on the list of ingredients and made the brilliant substitution. 'we can't figure it out,' said rosa cardini, daughter of the salad's inventor...cardini envisioned his a subtle salad, but as rosa pointed out, subtle is exactly what anchovies aren't."   "caesar! origin of the species," laurie ochoa, los angeles times, october 16, 1988 (p. l103) when did ceasar salad become popular in the usa? conventional wisdom places the invention of this salad in the mid 20s. our survey of contemporary sources suggests its was known, but not served, in southern california until a decade later. after wwii descriptions published in trendy journals (think: gourmet) sparked interest. by the mid 1950s everyone who was anyone in the usa knew what a caesar salad was. this coincides with the passing of mr. cardini. "jean harlow, mable hormand and all the stars would come to tijuana and ask for a cesar's salad, [cesar cardini] recalled...but it didn't become famous until 1937 when a screenwriter, manny wolfe, one of my regular customers, went to the house of murphy restaurant here, called for the ingredients and made the salad. the manager, di ciro, called it his salad,. but wolf took the recipe to the brown derby and chasen's and they called it caesar salad."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) "...hollywood's great delicacy, the caesar salad...the caesar salad, which mike romanoff'll let you have at a sacrifice  only 2 bucks  is glorified garlic. it's garlic with glamor he first time i heard of a 2 buck salad, i wanted to render unto caesar what was caesar's  a big loud razberry. they my beautiful wife...pointed out that it was an aristocrat of foods. like stone crabs in miami, oysters rockefeller in new orleans, lobsters in boston, cream cheese and bagels in new york. 'why do they call it caesar salad?' i kept asking. and finally i found it was invented by an italian named caesar cardini in his tijuana restaurant, called caesar's. edmund lowe tasted it there and brought it to hollywood. caeser's ex partner, peter friggerio, formerly at the colony and marguery in new york, is now the captain at henri's here where, of course, you can get a wonderful caesar salad. but confidently, the french born henri de charpentier, who's chef there and used to be at lynbrook, l. i. thinks it's a big mistake to have such a huge glamorous salad before the main course."    "dressing up garlic, early wilson, zanesville times recorder [oh], february 1, 1947 (p. 4) "los angeles revisited a few weeks ago, for the first time in two years, revealed more conclusively than almost anything else that the gastronomic highlight of the current moment is an arrangement called caesar's salad and that its consumption is constant, universal, and something to make the public prints in any fountainhead of good living like gourmet, as it has. caesar's salad, which is only infrequently encountered in restaurants in the east, but which will inevitably arrive in new york one of these fine days, is based on romaine instead of lettuce, chopped up anchovies, a liberal inclusion of heavily garlic flavored croutons, french dressing made slick by the inclusion of a couple of whole raw eggs, and the whole thing liberally showered with grated parmesan. at romanoff's, where we were taken to luncheon by gourmet's own stephen longstreet, with an assortment of local characters which included bob hope, gregory la cava, barbara stanwyck, and hedda hopper at adjacent tables, we were introduced to caesar's salad. at dave chasen's, where we dined that evening with robert hanley, the newly discovered and flourishing decorator of the county strip, we were immediately advised that caesar's salad was the thing to have. the next evening at hansen's scandia restaurant in sunset boulevard, the assembled chivalry to a man commanded caesar's salad, and subsequent skirmishes with the menus at perino's, the vine street brown derby, the garden restaurant of the town house, and other ranking restaurants of the city of angeles evolved the conviction that caesar's salad is as much of a part of the hollywood pattern as swimming pools or the new look."    "along the boulevards," lucius beebe, gourmet, june 1948, [no recipe] accessed online who was cesar cardini? an italian immigrant who wound up in tijuana. obviously savvy, mr. cardini operated a successful restaurant offering trendy cuisine to america's glamoros hollywood stars. he left tijuana in 1935 because mexican regulations against gambling were crushing his business. mr. cardini eventually settled in los angles, running an imported foods store. he cashed in on his claim to fame by selling his dressing. he passed away at the age of 60 in 1956. "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he has lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted. he was born in lago maggiore, italy, worked many european hotels and came to the united states when he was 20. for a time, before going to tijuana, he owned a restaurant in sacramento...he leaves his widow camille, a daughter rosa...two sisters [living in italy] and two brothers, alex and caudencio, who are in the restaurant business in mexico city."    "cesar cardini, creator of salad, dies at 60," los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31) "discouraged by failure of the mexican government to lift the ban on border gambling, caesar cardini has closed his gay tijuana café forever."    "resort owner quits forever," reno evening gazette, july 1, 1936 (p. 2) "caesar now runs an italian grocery store on la ciegna boulevard, movietown's restaurant row. he's regaining his claim to the salad fame by manufacturing his caesar salad dressing in a tiny kitchen behind his store."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) vintage recipes several publications claim they have "the original" recipe. all of them are slightly different. our gastronomic guess says the simpler the recipe, the closer to the original. and? most definatley no anchovies! most probably worcestershire. there are no caesar salad (or approximations) recipes in these trendy southern california publications: corona club cook book [1925], ebell society cook book [1926] or fashions of foods in beverly hills [1931]. the oldest print recipe food historians have identified (based on ingredients & method) was published in sunset (magazine) march, 1945. curiously? it's called "romaine salad." no reference to caesar. the casual reader could easily miss the connection. the caesar dressing appears in the the brown derby cookbook/cobb [1949] but not the salad. we hypothosize this omission may be at testament to the salad's "star power." enjoying a caesar salad was a glamorous public event, complete with live tableside show. sunset cook book/annabel post [1960] mentions the march 1945 recipe but prints the 1957 version (with anchovies, p. 19). [1945] "down in coronado. california, there's a restaurant called la avenida cafe which is known as the 'home of the romaine salad.' small wonder, for the salad which is their specialite de la maison is a dish to tempt the epicure. here's the recipe as given us by s. jack clapp, who is la avenida's authority on such matters. romaine salad 3 or 4 heads chilled, crisp romaine 2 handfuls crisp croutons (little cubes of fried bread) 6 tablespoons garlic oil 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 6 heaping tablespoons greated parmesan type cheese 1 egg juice of 3 lemons break the romaine in to a salad bowl; add croutons, oil, seasonings, and cheese. break the raw egg over the salad, ten pour the lemon juice over the egg. toss all together lightly from the bottom, and serve. serves 6. regarding the ingredients, mr. clapp has this to say: romaine: purchase pale green heads. remove outer leaves, wash thoroughly, shake dry, and chill in refrigerator. garlic oil: chop or mash a clove of garlic and place in bottom of a pint jar. fill jar with any salad oil keep at kitchen temperature, and use as needed. use the oil only; don't add the garlic to the salad. olive oil: in the case of this particular salad, best results are obtained if only a part (4 tablespoons) of the oil used is olive oil. black pepper: if possible, grind it yourself with a pepper mill. use plenty. parmesan type cheese: ideally, this should be freshly grated. egg: the raw egg acts as a binder and causes the dressing to be evenly distributed through the salad. the flavor of the egg is not detectable in the finished salad. with the salad, mr. clapp suggests serving garlic toast. to make it, split french rolls, brush the cut surface with garlic oil, sprinkle with parmesan type cheese and paprika, and heat in the oven."    "a salad to remember," sunset, march 1945 (p. 27) [1947] "1701. caesar salad prepare 2 cups of fried croutons (no. 203) in garlic flavored olive oil. place in wooden salad bowl rubbed with garlic, 2 medium sized heads crisp chilled romain, leaves separated and broken. sprinkle over it 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 4 oz., grated parmesan or crumbled blue cheese. add 6 tablespoons pure olive oil and juice of 2 medium sized lemons. break 2 raw eggs over salad, toss and mix gently, until trace of eggs has disappeared and the leaves have absorbed all liquid. taste for seasoning. just before serving, add the fried croutons, mixing and tossing salad again, being careful croutons do not become soggy. make at table just before serving."    the gold cook book, luis p. degouy [gallahad books:new york] 1947 (p. 815) [1950] ceasar salad from the pump room of the ambassador hotel, chicago 1 coddled egg 2 cloves garlic 1/8 teaspoon bahama mustard 1 tablespoon parmesan cheese 3/4 cup croutons 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 whole anchovies 2 heads romaine cut croutons out of sliced bread 1/2" square. roast same in oven, brown crisp under broiler. take two heads of romaine and wash thoroughly. cut same crosswise about 1/2" wide. place in wooden bowl. choose another bowl for your dressing. in this bowl break up garlic with fork and rub sides of bowl with it. add black pepper, pinch of salt, worcestershire sauce, mustard, lemon juice and mix thoroughly. then, after adding olive oil, mix thoroughly again. add cut up anchovies. mix coddled eggs to greens in wooden bowl. add salad dressing from second bowl and toss slightly. add croutons and half the amount of cheese and toss again, lightly. place on salad plate and sprinkle with remaining cheese."    love and fishes, niccolo de quattrochiocchi [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1950 (p. 365 366) [note: this book is chock full of celebrity recipes.] [1952] "[caesar cardinis original recipe] romaine lettuce, a one minute egg, garlic croutons, parmesan or romano cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, whole pepper, pear vinegar and olive oil."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) [note: preparation/method notes are not offered.] [1952] "caesar salad crush a clove of garlic and add it to ¾ of a cup of olive oil. let stand overnight. brown 2 cups of croutons, made from stale sourdough french bread, in ¼ cup of this garlic oil, stirring them carefully so that they will color on all sides. drain on paper toweling. (or, if you prefer, merely toast the bread cubes brown in a slow oven.) now break 2 large or 3 small heads of romaine into a large bowl, grind on a good generous amount of fresh black pepper and add ½ teaspoon of salt, then dress with ½ cup of the garlic oil. turn the salad until every leaf is glossy with oil, then break 2 eggs, cooked one minute, plunk into the middle of the salad. now, before the mixing is resumed, squeeze the guide of a big fat lemon directly over the egg (if the lemon is small, use 1 ½ or even 2 of them!), and mix so that there is a thick creamy look to the lettuce. if you wish to include fillets of anchovies, and many say you must, here is where they are added 6 to 8, snipped into bits. now taste it, and don't hesitate to use your fingers. more salt? more lemon? add them, or vinegar if you wish, plenty of experts do so. (and others insist on a slug of worcestershire!) the seasoning is now as you want it, so a good ½ cup (at least) of grated parmesan is tossed in, the salad mixed some more, and finally the croutons are added, and the salad served at once so they won't become limp and soggy. like any salad of this kind, the artists adds (or subtracts) as he goes along, so caesar salad, as you make it, is all your own! serves a dozen, more or less. 1 clove garlic 2/4 cup olive oil 2 cups croutons 2 3 heads romaine ½ teaspoon salt pepper 2 eggs juice of a large lemon 6 8 fillets of anchovies (optional) ½ cup grated parmesan."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile 1952 edition [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308 309) [1956] "caesar salad 1 large head iceberg lettuce 1 large head romaine 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt dash of fresh ground pepper 1 raw egg 1/4 cup garlic wine vinegar 2 cups croutons sprinkle prepared greens with cheese. combine 1/4 cup salad oil with worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. toss lightly with greens until each piece is coated. break whole egg into greens, sprinkle with garlic wine vinegar, toss until all egg particles disappear. combine remaining oil and croutons, toss with salad. makes 8 servings."    "caesar salad featured by world famous restaurants," san mateo times, june 27, 1956 (p. 36) [1957] "caesar salad several chefs and restauranteurs claim to have originated this well known green salad. sunset first discovered the salad in a small coronado restaurant and first published the recipe in march 1945. no one seems to know whether it was created by, or for, a 'caesar.' this version was published in sunset in 1957. caesar salad is invariably tossed at the table, where everyone can watch the host or hostess season and mix the greens and drop in each additional ingredient. 1 clove garlic 3/4 cup olive or other salad oil 2 cups croutons 2 large heads romaine 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 2 eggs, cooked 1 monute juice of one large lemon 6 to 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese crush garlic in small bowl, pour over the oil, and let stand several hours. brown the croutons (preferably made from stale sourdough french bread) in 1/4 cup of the garlic oil, stirring often. (if you prefer, you can toast the bread cubes in a slow oven.) tear romaine into a large salad bowl, sprinkle with salt, and grind over a generous amount of pepper. pour over remaining garlic oil and toss until every leaf is glossy. break the 1 minute eggs into salad; squeeze over the lemon juice, and toss thorougly. add chopped anchovies and grated cheese, and toss again. lastly, add the croutons, toss genetly, and serve immediately. serves about 12."    the sunset cook book, annabel post, home economics editor [lane book company:menlo park ca] 1960 (p. 19) [1960] "the original caesar salad 3 medium heads romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp garlic flavored olive oil, about 1/3 cup wine vinegar, 2 to 3 tablespoons juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 1 minute coddled eggs freshly ground pepper dash worcestershire sauce grated parmesan cheese, 5 or 6 tablespoons caesar croutons, about 1 cup break romaine leaves into 2  to 3 inch widths. at last minute before serving, place romaine in chilled salad bowl drizzle the garlic oil over greens, then the vinegar. squeeze the lemon over, using a fork to help free the juice. break in the 1 minute eggs. grind a flurry of pepper over all. season with salt and a dash of worcestershire. sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese. roll toss 6 or 7 times, or until dressing is thoroughly combined and every leaf is coated. add caesar croutons; toss 2 or 2 times. serve at once on chilled dinner plates. if you like, garnish with rolled anchovies. makes 6 servings as main course. " "caesar croutons: cut each slice of bread in 5 strips one way, then across 5 times to make squares. spread out on cooky sheet; pour a little garlic flavored oil over. heat in extremely slow oven (225 degrees f.) 2 hours. the croutons should be so dry, they'd float on water! ten they'll stay crunch when tossed with the dressing and greens. sprinkle croutons with grated parmesan cheese. store in jar and refrigerate to keep crispness."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) caesar salad dressing this salad's special dressing plays center stage. there is no other option. of course? there are variations... [1949] "caesar dressing, serves 2 1 egg, coddled 1 minute 1 heaping tbs. grated parmesan cheese 4 tbsp. pastry cream 1/2 cup brown derby old fashioned french dressing place coddled egg in a mixing bowl, add cheese and pastry cream. blend well. slowly whip in french dressing. any salad mixed with this dressing should be garnished with garlic french bread croutons."    brown derby cookbook, robert h. cobb [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949(p. 69) commercial production notes when the legendary caesar salad was *invented* by mr. cardini in his tijuana eatery in the 1920s, he made the dressing from scratch. according to his obituary, mr. cardini actively promoted commercial manufacture of his famous salad dressing: "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he had lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted." source: los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31). according to the records of the u.s. patent and trademark office cardini's brand caesar salad dressing was introduced to the american public february 6, 1950: word mark cardini's goods and services (abandoned) ic 029. us 046. g & s: salad dressing and salad dressing mix. first use: 19500206. first use in commerce: 19780915 mark drawing code (1) typed drawing serial number 73426710 filing date may 19, 1983 current filing basis 1a original filing basis 1a owner (applicant) cardini, rosa sinan dba, caesar cardini foods individual united states 4020 sepulveda blvd. culver city california 90230 attorney of record r. welton whann type of mark trademark register principal live/dead indicator dead abandonment date july 5, 1984 [note: cardini's brand name dressing is still being made. the current trademark owner is t. marzetti company.] perhaps the convincing push mr. cardini needed to capitalize on his name was a reaction to another company which already started making caesar dressing in the late 1940s. the earliest print evidence we find for manufactured caesar salad dressing is this advertisment published in 1949; "milani's caesar dressing for caesar salads, 45 cents/6 oz bottle." source: chicago daily tribune, september 29, 1949 (p. 9) green goddess dressing food historians generally credit philip roemer, chef of the palace hotel in san francisco, for the creation of green goddess salad dressing. it was allegedly made in honor of george arliss, an actor starring in a play by that same name. the year is fuzzy because the play ran in the 1920s followed by a popular film version in the 1930s. our survey of historic american cookbooks confirms mayonnaise based salad dressing recipes proliferated during the early decades of the 20th century. in fact? entire books were devoted to salads at that time. we examined several books and found several recipes for mayonnaise tarragon anchovy dressings onion dressings. given the noteriety of green goddess, it seems surprising to find recipes named such first surfacing in the late 1930s early 1940s. sometimes they are called "green dressing." "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1931] "green goddess salad dressing one cup mayonnaise, garlic, 1 tablespoon french dressing, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chives chopped fine, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 4 fillets of anchoves.   la casa pico tea room"    fashions in foods in beverly hills, compiled by the book section beverly hills womans club [beverly hills], 3rd edition 1931 (p. 26) [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; tuna salad culinary evidence (old cookbooks, menus etc.) confirms meat (ham) and mayonnaise type salads were popular in america from colonial times present. these were culinary traditions brought to our shores by european (esp. german) settlers. lobster and chicken salads were most common and extremely popular in the mid late 19th century. tuna salad is an early twentieth century recipe. why? because canned tuna was first introduced and mass marketed to the american public in 1903. american cookbooks in the 1930s and 1940s offer tuna salad recipes as alternatives to salads made from chicken and turkey. one might conclude this fishy substitution was not immediately embraced on its own merits. "tuna salad popular. in california the tuna is beign introduced generallly in the best restaurants, not only because it is new, but becuase people are beginning to value it for what it is. tuna salads are getting to be popular. the housekeeper can prepare the fish in a dozen different ways."    "tuna now popular fish food," christian science monitor, february 19, 1913 (p. 11) here is an early recipe: waldorf salad "waldorf salad...the dish was supposedly created by maitre d'hotel oscar tschirky of the waldorf astoria hotel in new york city, which opened in 1893. by 1896, when tschirky compiled the cook book by 'oscar of the waldorf,' the recipe  given without comment  called for only apples, celery, and mayonnaise, and the salad later became a staple item in most hotel dining rooms and other restaurants. at some point in the next two decades chopped walnuts were added, for they are listed by george rector in the ingredients for the salad in the rector cook book, which appeared in 1928, after which walnuts became standard in the recipe, including the one give in the waldorf astoria cookbook [1981], by ted james and rosalind cole."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 343) "waldorf salad...oscar tschirky...created this salad for a 'society supper' to which 1,500 persons came from boston, baltimore, and philadelphia...for sheila hibben, food editor of the new yorker, his creation was a mixed blessing. she thought his combination of apples and mayonnaise headed american housewives in the wrong direction 'and bred the sorry mixture of sweet salads' that remain very much on the gastronomical scene..."    american food: the gastronomic story, evan jones [vintage:new york] 1981, 2nd ed. (p. 398) "this american classic first was introduced at the old waldorf hotel in new york. oddly, it was an off the cuff creation by the maitre d'hotel, oscar tschirky, rather than an inspiration of the chef."    "apples fill a variety of culinary needs and are available all year long," peter kump, chicago tribune, february 15, 1990, 11a the original recipe waldorf salad peel two raw apples and cut them into small pieces, say about half and inch square, also cut some celery the same way, and mix it with the apple. be very careful not to let any seeds of the apples be mixed with it. the salad must be dressed with a good mayonnaise.    the cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, oscar tschirky [saafield publishing company:chicago] 1908 , copyright 1896 (p. 433) watergate salad & cake pistachios have been enjoyed since the beginning of time. they have generally considered luxury items. in the 20th century, technological advances made them more accessible to home cooks. culinary evidence confirms these nuts were most often used to flavor ice creams and parfaits. they were also sometimes used in pates, salads (toppings, molded in combination with other ingredients gelatine), baked goods, and candy. notes on pistachios and their use in cookery here. "waldorf salad...oscar tschirky...created this salad for a 'society supper' to which 1,500 persons came from boston, baltimore, and philadelphia...for sheila hibben, food editor of the new yorker, his creation was a mixed blessing. she thought his combination of apples and mayonnaise headed american housewives in the wrong direction 'and bred the sorry mixture of sweet salads' that remain very much on the gastronomical scene..."    american food: the gastronomic story, evan jones [vintage:new york] 1981, 2nd ed. (p. 398) "this american classic first was introduced at the old waldorf hotel in new york. oddly, it was an off the cuff creation by the maitre d'hotel, oscar tschirky, rather than an inspiration of the chef."    "apples fill a variety of culinary needs and are available all year long," peter kump, chicago tribune, february 15, 1990, 11a the original recipe waldorf salad peel two raw apples and cut them into small pieces, say about half and inch square, also cut some celery the same way, and mix it with the apple. be very careful not to let any seeds of the apples be mixed with it. the salad must be dressed with a good mayonnaise.    the cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, oscar tschirky [saafield publishing company:chicago] 1908 , copyright 1896 (p. 433) although salads and cakes made flavored with pistachios date back to the early 20th century, culinary evidence connects the recipes we know today as watergate salad and watergate cake to the kraft company, dating from the mid 1970s. why the kraft connection? both recipes use pistachio instant pudding mix, which was introduced by kraft foods in 1975. why watergate? the answer seems obvious to everyone who knows a little about american political events during that time period. interestingly enough, it has yet to be confirmed. the kraft does not take credit for the name. in fact? no one does. we do know that in 1973 two tongue in cheek "watergate" cookbooks were published: the watergate cookbook, n.y. alplaus [emporium publications:charlestown ma] and the watergate cookbook (or, who's in the soup?), the commitee to write the cookbook [new lone star press:cambridge ma]. these were apparently inpired by tom donnelly's article "serve hot, the county the silver," published earlier that year in the washington post. neither of these books, nor donnelley's article, contain recipes for watergate salad or watergate cake. "we developed the recipe for pistachio pineapple delight," says pat risso of kraft corporate affairs. "it was in 1975, the same year that pistachio pudding mix came out."the company, however, didn't suggest serving the dessert as a salad or change the name. as a matter of fact, the company didn't refer to it at all as watergate salad until consumers started requesting a recipe for watergate salad. the answer from an e mail query to http://www.kraftfoods.com got a little warmer. "according to kraft kitchens, when the recipe for pistachio pineapple delight was sent out, a chicago food editor renamed it watergate salad to promote interest in the recipe when she printed it in her column," the response came back. a call to carol haddix, food editor of the chicago tribune, got a quick response. "never heard of it," she said. a half dozen calls to former chicago food editors, publicists and retired kraft kitchens personnel also hit dead ends."    the proof is in the pudding; crashing watergate, louis mahoney; the richmond times dispatch, august 4, 1999 (p. f 1) watergate salad was reportedly named by a chicago food editor for an article, but neither the article nor editor has been tracked down. the full name of the cake is watergate cake with coverup icing."    trivia, rogers cadenhead, knight ridder newspapers, the record (bergen county, nj) march 15, 2000 "new flavors in 1976 were americana rice pudding and pistachio instant pudding. popular recipes were pudding in a cloud and, in 1981, watergate salad (pistachio and pineapple)." the history of jell o, kraft food company."    from kraft's old web site (not included in current pages) watergate salad of course, very few recipes are *invented* overnight. they are usually variations on popular food that have beens served for years. "pistachio nut  a native of central asia and member of the cashew family, the pistachio nut...has been cultivated for some 3,000 years and has a long history of popularity in the mediterranean world. but it was not until the 1930s with the advent of vending machines, that pistachio nuts (also called pistache) imported from italy became something of a rage in the united states as a snack food."    the cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas, volume 2, (p.1835) "it was in 1929 that american plant scientist william e. whitehouse spent a lonely six months in persia (modern day iran), collecting seed and sifting through piles of produce to find the most distinctive pistachios. he returned carrying a burlap sack 20 pounds heavy with seed." california pistachio commission "[1901] dole's company becomes hawaiian pineapple company and is incorporated in this year. james dole becomes known as "the pineapple king," because he was able to successfully grow and harvest this crop that had failed so many others. his company puts canned pineapple in every grocery store in the country and makes the name "hawaiian" almost synonymous with "pineapple." dole company molded salads combining all sorts of ingredients (especially mini marshmallows) were all the rage in the 1920s. the history of jell 0. jell o instant puddings were test marketed in 1950. the oldest recipe we found specifically titled "watergate salad" is this: watergate cake "a new watergate crisis is sweeping the washington area, but this time only homemakers and a few business men seem to care... the crisis stems from the growing popularity of a recipe for a concoction called "watergate cake," which demands large quantities of powdered pistachio pudding mix, both in the layer cake and in its light green icing. apparently, only one firm, royal pudding, a division of standard brands, inc., distributes pistachio pudding in the washington area. supermarkets haven't been able to get engouh to cope with the demands, which began around thanksgiving time and was very heavy at christmas. store shelves have been regularly stripped of the mix the same day it is displayed...if the sales spurt is not directly attributable to the popularity of watergate cake... "the we don't knoe why this product has suddenly taken off. it's been just phenomenal..." barry scher, a spokesman for giant foods, placed the blame not only on the recipe, but also on a coincidental shortage of pistachio nuts. "that was about five months abo, the spokesman said, "and as it ended, this recipe began circulating around. we were bombarded. we hate to admit it, but we just can't keep the mix on the shelf. the onset of watergate cake mania  and the resulting effort to close the supply demand gap   has tested old friendships and challenged the ingenuity and competitive instincts of many a washington area homemaking... no one, meanwhile, seems able to pinpoint the origin of this watergate, the recipe for which has appeared in a number of newspapers, including the washington post. nor can anyone explain how the cake got its name or why pistachio is the main flavoring. one current explanation leans on the presence of crushed walnuts in the cake  "bugs" in the parlance of kids. like the giant spokesman, harold giesinger, proprietor of the watergate pastry shop, had no thoughts on where the recipe originated   except that it was not with his bakery. "we haven't invented anything to which we'd attach a name like that," he said. nor, he added, does his shop rely on pistachio as a key ingredient in any of its products. "a private source may have put it together, " he said of the recipe. wherever watergate cake started, the pudding firm would like more more problems like it. gagan suspects some people have been buying more pistachio pudding mix than they'll ever use, simply becuase it's hard to get...further relief is in sight. another manufacturer, general foods, scanning the watergate assisted pistachio market, has decided to jump in. its version is expected to hit the supermarket shelves in march..."    "a watergate cake mania," alexander sullivan, washington post, february 26, 1976 (p. b2) [recipe included, see below 1976] "according to my sister in law who lives in waynesboro, virginia, the name of the cake became prominent in that part of the country because  nixon liked pistachio nuts, hence (and a rather far fetched reasoning) the name for the watergate cake, because synonymous with  pistachio nuts, mrs. nixon and watergate. i had neither heard of pistachio pudding or the watergate cake until last fall we stopped to visit them, and she had the cake all ready for us to eat. however, her recipe is much different than the one printed in the washington post thursday in your column. sincerely yours, virginia k. wiszneauckas, wheaton, md."    "that cake," washington post, march 11, 1976 (p. va2) the earliest recipe we find for pistachio cake also employs a packaged cake mix. note! this is "mock pistachio"! [1962] pistachio almond into [angel food mix] cake batter, fold a few drops green food color, 1/4 teasp. almond extract, 3/4 minced, blanched almonds."    good housekeeping cook book, dorothy b. marsh [good housekeeping:new york] 1962 (p. 457) compare with these: [1975] "watergate cake 1 box white cake mix 1 box pistachio instant pudding 1 cup vegetable oil 1 cup club soda 3 eggs 1/2 cup chopped walnuts mix all ingredients well (4 to 4 minutes). bake in 12 by 9 inch greased pan for 45 minutes at 350 degrees. topping for cake 1 box pistachio instant pudding 1/4 cup cold milk 1 (9 ounce) box whipped topping mix nut meats and maraschino cherries beat milk into instant pudding mix. prepare topping mix according to instructions on box. fold into pudding mixture. spread oncake and top with nuts and cherries. c.s.r. arlington."    "anne's reader exchange," washington post, november 13, 1975 (p. c17) [1976] watergate cake 1 (3 1/2 ounce) box instant pistachio pudding 1 box white cake mix (any brand) 1 cup vegetable oil 1/2 cup walnuts 1 cup ginger ale 3 eggs mix together  any order bake at 350 degrees  30 to 40 minutes. it isn't necessary to grease the pan. icing one large or two small containers frozen whipped topping 1 box instant pistachio pudding 1 1/2 cups milk mix together until smooth. top off with nuts, coconuts or cherries. lovely to look at and very moist."    "a watergate cake mania," alexander sullivan, washington post, february 26, 1976 (p. b2) [1976] "here is a fantastic cake recipe that i like to prepare for special occasions," writes nels wenman. "it was sent to me by a cousin in arizona." watergate cake with cover up icing 1 (18 1/2 ounce) package white cake mix 1 (3 1/2 ounce) package instant pistachio pudding mix 3 eggs, unbeaten 3/4 cup oil 1 cup lemon lime carbonated beverage cover up icing 3/4 cup shredded coconut 1 cup finely chopped pecans combine cake mix, pudding mix, eggs, oil and lemon lime in a bowl. beat until well blended. pour into a greased and floured 13x9 inch pan and bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes. cool. spread with cover up icing and sprinkle with coconut and pecans. cover up icing 2 (1 1/2 ounce) envelopes nondairy whipped topping mix 1 1/2 cups milk 1 (3 1/2 ounce) package instant pistachio pudding mix beat whipped topping mix, milk and pudding mix together until smooth and thick."    "my best recipe," los angeles times, june 17, 1976 (p. h6) where do pistachios come from? "pistachio, pistacia vera, a small tree native to parts of west asia and the levant between turkey and afghanistan, bears nuts which have for long been highly prized. the earliest traces of pistachios being eaten in turkey and the middle east date back to about 7000bc; and the species has been cultivated and improved during serveral millenia...pistachio trees were introduced from asia to europe in the 1st century ad, by the romans."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 610) "pistachio...the word originated in persian as pistah, and reached the west via greek pistakion. english originally borrowed it from french as pistace."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 258) "pistachio nut. a native of central asia and member of the cashew family, the pistachio nut has been cultivated for some 3,000 years and has a long history of popularity in the mediterranean world. but it was not until the 1930s, with the advent of vending machines, that pistachio nuts (also called pistache) imported from italy became something of a rage in the united states as a snack food...following world war ii, the evergreen trees that bear pistachios were imported to california, and although the imported nuts are still dyed, most american grown pistachios are sold without dye, in naturally tan shells."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000 volume 2 (p. 1835) "the dying of pistachios is not a middle eastern tradition but is said to have originated with a brooklyn street vendor named zaloom who colored his pistachios red to distinguish them from his competitors. the idea caught on  especially in the east  that most pistachios used to be dyed red. this is no longer true, with only about 15 percent of those sold today so colored."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 243) pistachio cookery "this pistachio, with its unique color and mild but distinctive flavour, has always been a luxury, costing three or four times as much as other nuts. it is generally eaten roasted and salted as a dessert nut. in cooking it is often used as a garnish or decoration, both in sweet and savory dishes. for example, it figures in in some of the finest pilaf dishes and in european pates and brawns which are served in slices, so that the nuts appear as attractive green specs or slivers."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 610) "in mediterranean and oriental cooking, pistachios are used in poultry sauces and stuffings and also in hash. in classic cuisine they garnish galantines, brawn (head cheese) and mortadella. in india pistachio puree is used to season rice and vegetables. pistachios go best with veal, pork and poultry. their green color (often accentuated artificially) makes them popular for creams (especially for filling cakes, such as the galacien) and for ice creams and ice cream desserts. in confectionery it is especially associated with nougat."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 900) lettuce arugula & rocket...chicory...iceberg lettuce... lamb's lettuce...romaine lettuce...water cress the food historians and linguists tell us lettuce was [most likely] first cultivated by the ancient greeks, possibly as early as the 6th century bc. there is some controversy regarding the date because there were several ancient plants fitting the description of lettuce at that time. "wild lettuce was gathered for millennia by hunter gatherers and was still being gathered by humans at the time of the ancient greeks. the latter probably began its cultivation, which was continued by the roman. the first cultivated letuuce was lactuca serriola, which is native to the mediterranean region."    the cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1801) "the ancient greeks and romans cultivated the lettuce, especially as a salad. in the east its cultivation possible dates from an earlier epoch. nevertheless it does not appear, from the original common names both in asia and europe, that this plant was generally or very anciently cultivated. there is no sanskrit nor hebrew name known, nor any in the reconstructed aryan tongue. a greek name exists, tridax; latin, latuca; persian and hindu, kahn; and the analogous arabic form chuss or chass. the latin form exists also, slightly modified, in the slav and germanic languages, which may indicate either that the western aryans diffused the plant, or that its cultivation spread with its name at a later date from the south to the north of europe. dr. bretscheider has confirmed by supposition that the lettus is not very ancient in china, and that it was introduced there from the west. he says that the first work in which it is mentioned dates from a.d. 600 to a.d. 900."    origin of cultivated plants, alphonse de candole [hafner publishing company:new york] 1964 (p. 96) "other new roman arrivals [to britain] were the garden varieties of a number of green vegetables, among them cabbage, beet, mallows, orache (atriplex), lettuce and endive..."    food and drink in britain from the stone age to the 19th century, c. anne wilson [academy broadway:chicago il] 1991 (p. 195) "lettuce..was introduced to britain by the romans, who commonly ate it cooked rather than raw. this tradition continued into and beyond the middle ages...but by the seventeeth century the memory of it was dying out (john eveyln...in his aceteria is extravagant in his praise of lettuce as a raw salad vegetable, but of cooked lettuce he notes only as an afterthought."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 189) lettuce in america "england had cultivated lettuce as of the fifteenth century, but christopher columbus may have been the first to bring it to america. lettuce was grown only in home gardens until the twentienth century, when americans' new appetite for salad made commercial production profitable."    encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 183) "both leaf and head lettuces were commonly grown in colonial and early american times. lettuce was highly perishable and was available only locally in season. however, lettuce became more readily availble in the twentieth century with the development of crisphead lettuce (iceberg is the most familiar). with sturdy leaves forming a compact, round head, these lettuces can be transported over long distances without damage. distributed by railroad from california and arizona, lettuce becmae an important year round food in america. during the 1920s and 1930s its production doubled."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 32) romaine lettuce salads made with romaine lettuce (also known as cos lettuce) were known in the united states by 1880s. romaine was used as both base and in combination with other leafy greens. our cookbooks do not specify this type of lettuce but the recipes below do. of course, this is not a definate indicator that romaine was enjoyed by all classes of people in all parts of the country. we can presume romaine was appreciated by the wealthy based on its appearance on a menu served at the harvard club's dinner in 1895 (nyt, february 22, 1895, p. 3). note: this romaine and lettuce salad was served in the classic european fashion, towards the end of the meal, just before the dessert course. [1877] "salad a la romaine. freshen two heads of lettuce in plenty of cold water. when about to serve mix in a bowl three tablespoonfuls of oil, one of lemon juice, one third of a small onion grated, inch of cayenne, white pepper and salt to taste, and a small pinch of powdered sugar: break the lettuce into the bowl; well mix, turn into the salatiere, garnish with hard boiled eggs, and serve."    "receipts for the table," new york times, january 28, 1877 (p. 9) [note: this recipe does not specify the type of lettuce to be used. "heads" imply standard usa lettuce, not the more leafy romaine.] [1886] "there is another kind [of lettuce], high in favor in paris and in some localities in this country for its tenderness and delicate flavor, but not liked by marketmen, because it will not bear rough handling. the time will come, however, when there will be such a demand for this species that all first class provision dealers will keep it. the french call it romaine, and in this country it is sometimes called roman lettuce. it does not head. the leaves are strng and not handsome whole; but one who uses the lettuce never wishes for any other."    miss parloa's new cook book, a guide to marketing and cooking, maria parloa [estes and lauriat::boston ma] 1886 (p. 52) arugula & rocket arugula (aka rocket) is an "old world" cruciferous plant. the leaves have been used for centuries in salads. they have a tangy, mustardy flavor, which makes the salad interesting in flavor and texture. americans "discovered" this tasty green in the 1990s. "the rocket is a eurasian plant with spicily hot tasting dandelion shaped leaves that are used in salads. it has become much more widely known in britain following the salad revolution of the late twentieth century. the name rocket comes via french roquette from italian ruchetta, a diminutive form of ruca, which in turn comes from latin eurca. this meant literally caterpillar', and was applied to the plant because of its hairy stems. it may have been derived from er, hedgehog'."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 284) "rocket, eruca sativa, a plant which grows wild in asia and the mediterranean region, has been introduced elsewhere, including n. america (where it is known by its italian name, arugula), and cultivated for use as a salad plant. its flavour, akin to that of horseradish or some sorts of cress, is strong in mature leaves, so these are added to salads with discretion. young leaves may be used freely. their popularity as a smart ingredient in western restaurants may obscure then fact that they are grown and liked in some places, e.g. the north of sudan...in classical rome the plant was cultivated both for its leaves and for its seeds, used as a flavouring. the seeds can also be used to produce and oil."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 667) "arugula also known as "rocket" and "garden rocket," this native of europe and western asia...is a cruciferous plant that has long provided tender, slightly bitter, mustard flavoured greens for the salad bowls of southern europeans and italian americans. lately, it has become widely available in the united states, where it has been naturalized. its leaves resemble those of the radish, which is a close relative. the seeds of arugula are also eaten, and they yield an oil that is used for culinary puroses, as a lubricant, and in medicines."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenlas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1722) "rocket, salad vegetable, one of the best native mediterranean species. rocket was grown in classical greek kitchen gardens and was equally familiar to romans. apart from the use of the leaf, rocket seed is called for as a culinary spice in apicus. rocket had an enduring reputation among aphrodesiacs...because of this reputation rocket was often served at dinners mixed with lettuce, an antaphrodesiac, so that their qualities would conteract one another."    food in the ancient world from a to z, andrew dalby [routledge:london] 2003 (p. 282) arugula & rocket in the usa based on the number of print newspaper references per decade "arugula" gained marked interest in the 1990s and became popular in the 2000s. the plant was known, but not particularly favored, from colonial times forward. presumably, this accounts for the dearth of references & recipes. [1911] "rocket: a rather coarse garden plant whose young leaves are occasionally used as a pot herb or for salads. the flowers resemble orange blossoms in odor."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [national grocer:new york] 1911 (p. 532) [1919] "b. vulgaris...rocket. winter cress. yellow rocket. europe and temperate asia. this herb of northern climates have been cultivated in england for a long time and as an early salad and also in scotland, where the bitter leaves are eaten by some. in early times, rocket was held in some repute but is now banished from cultivation yet appears in gardens as a weed...rocket is included in the list of american garden esculents by mcmahon in 1806. in 1832, bridgeman says winter cress is used as a salad in spring and autumn and by some boiled as a spinage."    sturtevant's notes onf edible plants, edited by u.p. hedrick, report of the new york agricultural experiment station for the year 1919 ii [j.b. lyon company:albany ny] 1919 (p. 82) [138] "roquette. this is a salad vegetable resembling cress in taste. it is served as a salad in the same manner, and is very popular with the creoles."    the original picayune creole cook book, 9th edition [times picayune publishing co.:new orleans la] 1938 227) [1960] "it would seem almost impossible that the most appealing and relatively abundant salad green could be available in new york and yet be relatively unknown. but there is one, and it leads to the suspicion that there may be more. the one in question has more names than joseph's coat has colors. the fact of the matter is that this green with the pungent and fascinatinf flavor goes by different names from one market to the next. ask italian green grocers for arugula, rucola or ruccoli; ask other markets for rouquette, rocket salad or, simply, rocket...most italian chefs know...that arugula or rocket...is the secret ingredient in many of their salads about town. considering the public unawareness of the plant, it has an astonishing availability...new york does not have a corner on the vegetable's availability in the united states. rocket salad is tremendously popular in the creole country of louisiana."    "food news: a green by any name," craig claiborne, new york times may 24, 1960 (p. 33) chickory salad green, cooked vegetable, and (when times are tough) coffee substitue. "chicory. semantic problems abound with chicory (cichorium intybus)  also called succory, radicchio, and red chicory), endive...and escarole, which is the broad leafed variety of endive. all three are members of the dandelion family, but there the resemblance ends. cichoirum endivia, native to india, was the ancestor of endive and known to the egyptians as well as to the ancient greeks and romans. by contrast, c. indybus is native to europe, but the names nonetheless remain confused. in the united states, chicory is generally called belgian edive, although this is also referred to simply as endive. the french, too, call it endive...and radicchio is chicory's italian name...chicory as well as endive roots are ground to become a natural coffee substitute...or in addition to regular coffee for added flavor and reduced caffeine. however, the tight hearts of belgian endive and radicchio are also attractive and slightly bitter ingredients in salads; in addition, their braised leaves can be a vegetable dish in their own right."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge unviersity press:cambridge] volume two, 2001 (p. 1753) "chicory...decribes a group of perennial cultivated plants developed from wild chicory, a common plant of europe, w. asia, and africa...chicory was used as a vegetable and for salad in classical greece and rome, but was not apparently cultivated. the leaves of the wild plant are not too bitter if gathered young. from the 16th century onwards modern cultivated forms, with larger and less bitter leaves, were developed...the practice of taking up chicory plants in the autumn, cutting off their leaves, and replanting the roots in a dark cellar so that they regrow small, white leaves originated in france. the original french variety called, like the wild plant, barbe de capucin is unusual in that the roots are replanted on their sides in angled banks and the shoots grow horizontally. around 1850 a belgian grower, experimenting with uses for old musroom compost, discovered the superior cigar shaped form witloof...the large rooted variety of chicory which is used as a coffee substitute was developed in holland during the second half of the 18th century, when coffee was newly fashionable and very expensive. all over europe people experimented with substitutes: grains, figs, acorns, and all kinds of root, especially dandelion and chicory. chicory was judged the most acceptable."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 167 8) "chicory can be served raw in salads  with vinaigrette and often with hard boiled (hard cooked) eggs and any of the various ingredients used in winter salads, including beetroot (red beets), apples, nuts, cheese and orange or grapefruit quarters. for cooked dishes, chicory heads are braised and drained; they can then be coated with bechamel sauce, sprinkled with noisette butter, served with gravy or with plain butter and herbs topped with grated cheesse and browned, or made into a puree. they can be served as an accompaniement to roasts and poultry. they can also be braised, made into a chiffanade or prepared as fritters (espsecially when served with fish). as a main dish, chicory is braised rolled in slices of ham and coated with a port and raisin sauce, or stuffed (with a fatty or lean stuffing) and browned on top."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 278) "chicory. american nomenclature is very confusing for this salad green called cichorium intybus, with its curly leaves and bright blue flowers...chicory is quite bitter and is often mixed with other salad greens. the same plant's roots are dried and ground into a granular powder, often referred to as "succory," that resembles coffee and is used as an additive to or substitute for real coffee in creole and cajun cooking, a legacy of the french influence on these cuisines...adding chicory to coffee began in new orleans during the food scarce civil war."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 73 4) lamb's lettuce (mache, cornsalad) "lamb's lettuce is a small plant of the genus valerianella with soft long roundish leaves eaten raw in salads. it has been known in britain for many centuries (john gerard mentions it in his herbal, 1597), but it was only in the 1980s, whith an increasing interest in exploring a wider range of salad leaves, that it started to become widely available commercially (the french, who call it mache, have always known its worth). the origins of its name, which may be a translation of latin latuca agnina, are not known for certain, but it presumably reflects a supposed partiality of lambs for the leaves. an alternative name, used particuarly for the wild variety, is corn salad, an allusion to the plant's commonly grown in corn fields."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 184) ""cornsalad," so named because these plants with small, bluish flowers grow in cornfields, actully refers to any of several plants of the genus valerianella...these european natives  found throughout north america as well  provide slightly bitter tasting leaves that are much appreciated in salads. the various types of cornsalad were considered weeds until the seventeenth century, when they began to be cultivated, and cultivation doubtless accounts for the different varieties now identified... common names and synonyms: european cornsalads, fat hen, field salad, hog salad, lamb's lettuce, lamb's quarter, mache...marsh salad."    world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2001, volume two (p. 1763) "lamb's lettuce. a plant with rounded leaves in a rosette form, which is usually eaten raw in a salad. it is also known...in france, as mache, doucette, valerianelle potagere, raiponce, and oreielle de lievre. it grows wild in fields, usually in autumn, but is cultivated in france from september to march and gives a good flavour to a winter salad. there are several varieties..."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 668) caesar salad simple, elegant, inexpensive, and famous. what more could a chef ask for? american cookbooks confirm chefs were serving artfully cut lettuce coated in french dressing in fancy restaurants from the late 19th century forwards. what makes caesar salad different? a memorable origination story (or two or three) and documented hollywood flair. "and now we come to it  the most talked of salad of a decade, perhaps of the century. like all recipes that have become widely known, several chefs and restaurateurs have claimed to have originated the salad. actually many of them have had a hand in promoting it, though not necessarily as a caesar. as for its origin, the best guess seems to be that the whole thing started in tia juana, during prohibition, but whether it was actually created by one named 'caesar,' or just named for him, is a matter of considerable discussion. the salad is at its best when kept simple, but as it is invariably made at table, and sometimes by show offs, it occasionally contains far too many ingredients."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile reprint [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308) classic theory of origin: "caesar salad. a salad of romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese, worcestershire sauce, and, often, anchovies. it was created by caesar cardini, an italian immigrant who opened a series of restaurants in tijuana, mexico...on fourth of july weekend in 1924 at caesar's palace, cardini concocted the salad as a main course, arranging the lettuce leaves on a plate with the intention that they would be eaten with their fingers. later cardini shredded the leaves into bite sized pieces. the salad became particularly popular with hollywood movie people who visited tijuana, and it became a featured dish at chasen's and romanoff's in los angeles."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 50 51) [note: most sources cite the restaurant as cesar's (or caesar's) place.] "it was an accident! but now caesar salad is tossed in handsome salad bowls, coast to coast and on purpose! a well known restaurateur, caesar cardini, concocted this zesty salad some 35 years ago at tijuana, mexico. here is the true story, told to us by his daughter rosa. one holiday weekend a throng of tourists descended on caesar's place. a few crates of romaine, half a case of eggs, a wheel of italian cheese, some lemons, and dry bread that was all the food left by sunday morning. what to do for the hungry crowd at dinner? caesar thought he'd have to close shop for the remainder of the holiday. instead he decided to invent a new salad form the ingredients he had on hand. he got out the eggs, the lemons, the parmesan cheese, the bread, and the big bottle of olive oil to which he previously had added garlic. with the romaine lettuce as the only greens, he experimented with a little of this and that in the dressing. finally, to bind the dressing ingredients together, he came up with the idea of coddling the eggs for a minute, then tossing them with the salad. (yes, that's right the original caesar salad was not made with completely raw eggs.) the loaves of bread he cut in tiny cubes and slowly oven toasted them to add to his salad at the very end. (the anchovies, now a familiar ingredient in caesar salad, didn't become part of the recipe until some 10 years later.) while the waiters kibitzed, caesar demonstrated his creation. 'take everything to each table,' he instructed, 'and make a ceremony of fixing the salad. plenty of fanfare. let guests think they're having the specialty of the house.' and the guests did! so rapidly did the news of this remarkable salad spread, that diners flocked to caesar's place just to learn the recipe. soon west coast restaurants adopted it; then it appeared on the finest menus in every state. caesar cardini's reward? in paris at the 1951 meeting of the international society of epicures, his salad was acclaimed the greatest recipe contribution of the united states in 50 years. but it was really at tijuana, mexico that the now world famous caesar salad was born. you'll find many variations of caesar salad, but here rosa cardini, who operates the food specialty shop her father started in los angeles and who bottles the original caesar salad dressing, share his authentic recipe and salad know how."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) story 2: "it has been fairly well established that the late caesar cardini created the caesar salad at hist restaurant in tijuana, mexico. or did he? the latest word is that an italian woman named beatriz santini composed the salad in austria in 1918. hard put for food in a country impovershed by war, she soft boiled eggs, which were plentiful, and added them to a bowl of romaine lettuce. a little parmesan cheese, a dressing of wine vinegar and olive oil, and the creation was complete. cardini never met santini. so how did he come up with the same idea? he didn't, we are told. the link was santini's son, livio, who emigrated to tijuana. livio santini got a job with cardini, who had opened a bar and restaurant on second street about 1924. one day, a hungry santini mixed up a bit of his mother's salad. a wealthy customer from la jolla invaded the kitchen as santini was crunching romaine, and she asked for a taste. it pleased her so that she ordered a serving from cardini, who came out to find what santini was eating. one week later, the salad was on the menu, ceremoniously mixed at table side by a captain and busboy. thus, the start of the cardini legend. the teller of this tale was no tale spinner. it was livio santini himself. now 78, santini was a guest of honor at tijuana's recent first caesar salad celebration."   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) story 3: "sr. alex cardini, of cardini's restaurant in mexico city, affirms that he invented the original caesar salad in 1926, naming it after his brother."    a world of vegetable cookery, alex d. hawkes [simon and schuster:new york] 1968 (p. 138) the anchovy debate: food historians agree anchovies were not part of the original recipe. these salty fillets infiltrate in the 1930s. "cardini was adamant in insisting that the salad be subtly flavored and argued against the inclusion of anchovies, whose faint flavor in his creation he believed may have come from the worcestershire sauce. he also decreed that only italian olive oil and imported parmesan cheese be used."    encyclopedia of american food and drink (p. 51) "according to santini...his mother used no anchovies, no lime or lemon juice and no croutons in her salad...the controversial anchovy, acknowledged by either beatriz santini nor caesar cardini, wound up on several salads.".   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) "the shocking truth is that while a proper caesar always has anchovy, an authentic one never does. in its original form, caesar salad was more a culinary tourist trap than a great american food standard, famous for the tableside show that came with the salad, not the anchovy. yet it is the anchovy that most caesar aficionados consider vital; only caesar wimps ask for their salad sans the small fry. so where did the anchovy come from?...the most common theory involves worcestershire sauce. the thinking is that someone, somewhere along the way...ran out of worcestershire sauce...saw anchovy on the list of ingredients and made the brilliant substitution. 'we can't figure it out,' said rosa cardini, daughter of the salad's inventor...cardini envisioned his a subtle salad, but as rosa pointed out, subtle is exactly what anchovies aren't."   "caesar! origin of the species," laurie ochoa, los angeles times, october 16, 1988 (p. l103) when did ceasar salad become popular in the usa? conventional wisdom places the invention of this salad in the mid 20s. our survey of contemporary sources suggests its was known, but not served, in southern california until a decade later. after wwii descriptions published in trendy journals (think: gourmet) sparked interest. by the mid 1950s everyone who was anyone in the usa knew what a caesar salad was. this coincides with the passing of mr. cardini. "jean harlow, mable hormand and all the stars would come to tijuana and ask for a cesar's salad, [cesar cardini] recalled...but it didn't become famous until 1937 when a screenwriter, manny wolfe, one of my regular customers, went to the house of murphy restaurant here, called for the ingredients and made the salad. the manager, di ciro, called it his salad,. but wolf took the recipe to the brown derby and chasen's and they called it caesar salad."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) "...hollywood's great delicacy, the caesar salad...the caesar salad, which mike romanoff'll let you have at a sacrifice  only 2 bucks  is glorified garlic. it's garlic with glamor he first time i heard of a 2 buck salad, i wanted to render unto caesar what was caesar's  a big loud razberry. they my beautiful wife...pointed out that it was an aristocrat of foods. like stone crabs in miami, oysters rockefeller in new orleans, lobsters in boston, cream cheese and bagels in new york. 'why do they call it caesar salad?' i kept asking. and finally i found it was invented by an italian named caesar cardini in his tijuana restaurant, called caesar's. edmund lowe tasted it there and brought it to hollywood. caeser's ex partner, peter friggerio, formerly at the colony and marguery in new york, is now the captain at henri's here where, of course, you can get a wonderful caesar salad. but confidently, the french born henri de charpentier, who's chef there and used to be at lynbrook, l. i. thinks it's a big mistake to have such a huge glamorous salad before the main course."    "dressing up garlic, early wilson, zanesville times recorder [oh], february 1, 1947 (p. 4) "los angeles revisited a few weeks ago, for the first time in two years, revealed more conclusively than almost anything else that the gastronomic highlight of the current moment is an arrangement called caesar's salad and that its consumption is constant, universal, and something to make the public prints in any fountainhead of good living like gourmet, as it has. caesar's salad, which is only infrequently encountered in restaurants in the east, but which will inevitably arrive in new york one of these fine days, is based on romaine instead of lettuce, chopped up anchovies, a liberal inclusion of heavily garlic flavored croutons, french dressing made slick by the inclusion of a couple of whole raw eggs, and the whole thing liberally showered with grated parmesan. at romanoff's, where we were taken to luncheon by gourmet's own stephen longstreet, with an assortment of local characters which included bob hope, gregory la cava, barbara stanwyck, and hedda hopper at adjacent tables, we were introduced to caesar's salad. at dave chasen's, where we dined that evening with robert hanley, the newly discovered and flourishing decorator of the county strip, we were immediately advised that caesar's salad was the thing to have. the next evening at hansen's scandia restaurant in sunset boulevard, the assembled chivalry to a man commanded caesar's salad, and subsequent skirmishes with the menus at perino's, the vine street brown derby, the garden restaurant of the town house, and other ranking restaurants of the city of angeles evolved the conviction that caesar's salad is as much of a part of the hollywood pattern as swimming pools or the new look."    "along the boulevards," lucius beebe, gourmet, june 1948, [no recipe] accessed online who was cesar cardini? an italian immigrant who wound up in tijuana. obviously savvy, mr. cardini operated a successful restaurant offering trendy cuisine to america's glamoros hollywood stars. he left tijuana in 1935 because mexican regulations against gambling were crushing his business. mr. cardini eventually settled in los angles, running an imported foods store. he cashed in on his claim to fame by selling his dressing. he passed away at the age of 60 in 1956. "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he has lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted. he was born in lago maggiore, italy, worked many european hotels and came to the united states when he was 20. for a time, before going to tijuana, he owned a restaurant in sacramento...he leaves his widow camille, a daughter rosa...two sisters [living in italy] and two brothers, alex and caudencio, who are in the restaurant business in mexico city."    "cesar cardini, creator of salad, dies at 60," los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31) "discouraged by failure of the mexican government to lift the ban on border gambling, caesar cardini has closed his gay tijuana café forever."    "resort owner quits forever," reno evening gazette, july 1, 1936 (p. 2) "caesar now runs an italian grocery store on la ciegna boulevard, movietown's restaurant row. he's regaining his claim to the salad fame by manufacturing his caesar salad dressing in a tiny kitchen behind his store."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) vintage recipes several publications claim they have "the original" recipe. all of them are slightly different. our gastronomic guess says the simpler the recipe, the closer to the original. and? most definatley no anchovies! most probably worcestershire. there are no caesar salad (or approximations) recipes in these trendy southern california publications: corona club cook book [1925], ebell society cook book [1926] or fashions of foods in beverly hills [1931]. the oldest print recipe food historians have identified (based on ingredients & method) was published in sunset (magazine) march, 1945. curiously? it's called "romaine salad." no reference to caesar. the casual reader could easily miss the connection. the caesar dressing appears in the the brown derby cookbook/cobb [1949] but not the salad. we hypothosize this omission may be at testament to the salad's "star power." enjoying a caesar salad was a glamorous public event, complete with live tableside show. sunset cook book/annabel post [1960] mentions the march 1945 recipe but prints the 1957 version (with anchovies, p. 19). [1945] "down in coronado. california, there's a restaurant called la avenida cafe which is known as the 'home of the romaine salad.' small wonder, for the salad which is their specialite de la maison is a dish to tempt the epicure. here's the recipe as given us by s. jack clapp, who is la avenida's authority on such matters. romaine salad 3 or 4 heads chilled, crisp romaine 2 handfuls crisp croutons (little cubes of fried bread) 6 tablespoons garlic oil 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 6 heaping tablespoons greated parmesan type cheese 1 egg juice of 3 lemons break the romaine in to a salad bowl; add croutons, oil, seasonings, and cheese. break the raw egg over the salad, ten pour the lemon juice over the egg. toss all together lightly from the bottom, and serve. serves 6. regarding the ingredients, mr. clapp has this to say: romaine: purchase pale green heads. remove outer leaves, wash thoroughly, shake dry, and chill in refrigerator. garlic oil: chop or mash a clove of garlic and place in bottom of a pint jar. fill jar with any salad oil keep at kitchen temperature, and use as needed. use the oil only; don't add the garlic to the salad. olive oil: in the case of this particular salad, best results are obtained if only a part (4 tablespoons) of the oil used is olive oil. black pepper: if possible, grind it yourself with a pepper mill. use plenty. parmesan type cheese: ideally, this should be freshly grated. egg: the raw egg acts as a binder and causes the dressing to be evenly distributed through the salad. the flavor of the egg is not detectable in the finished salad. with the salad, mr. clapp suggests serving garlic toast. to make it, split french rolls, brush the cut surface with garlic oil, sprinkle with parmesan type cheese and paprika, and heat in the oven."    "a salad to remember," sunset, march 1945 (p. 27) [1947] "1701. caesar salad prepare 2 cups of fried croutons (no. 203) in garlic flavored olive oil. place in wooden salad bowl rubbed with garlic, 2 medium sized heads crisp chilled romain, leaves separated and broken. sprinkle over it 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 4 oz., grated parmesan or crumbled blue cheese. add 6 tablespoons pure olive oil and juice of 2 medium sized lemons. break 2 raw eggs over salad, toss and mix gently, until trace of eggs has disappeared and the leaves have absorbed all liquid. taste for seasoning. just before serving, add the fried croutons, mixing and tossing salad again, being careful croutons do not become soggy. make at table just before serving."    the gold cook book, luis p. degouy [gallahad books:new york] 1947 (p. 815) [1950] ceasar salad from the pump room of the ambassador hotel, chicago 1 coddled egg 2 cloves garlic 1/8 teaspoon bahama mustard 1 tablespoon parmesan cheese 3/4 cup croutons 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 whole anchovies 2 heads romaine cut croutons out of sliced bread 1/2" square. roast same in oven, brown crisp under broiler. take two heads of romaine and wash thoroughly. cut same crosswise about 1/2" wide. place in wooden bowl. choose another bowl for your dressing. in this bowl break up garlic with fork and rub sides of bowl with it. add black pepper, pinch of salt, worcestershire sauce, mustard, lemon juice and mix thoroughly. then, after adding olive oil, mix thoroughly again. add cut up anchovies. mix coddled eggs to greens in wooden bowl. add salad dressing from second bowl and toss slightly. add croutons and half the amount of cheese and toss again, lightly. place on salad plate and sprinkle with remaining cheese."    love and fishes, niccolo de quattrochiocchi [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1950 (p. 365 366) [note: this book is chock full of celebrity recipes.] [1952] "[caesar cardinis original recipe] romaine lettuce, a one minute egg, garlic croutons, parmesan or romano cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, whole pepper, pear vinegar and olive oil."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) [note: preparation/method notes are not offered.] [1952] "caesar salad crush a clove of garlic and add it to ¾ of a cup of olive oil. let stand overnight. brown 2 cups of croutons, made from stale sourdough french bread, in ¼ cup of this garlic oil, stirring them carefully so that they will color on all sides. drain on paper toweling. (or, if you prefer, merely toast the bread cubes brown in a slow oven.) now break 2 large or 3 small heads of romaine into a large bowl, grind on a good generous amount of fresh black pepper and add ½ teaspoon of salt, then dress with ½ cup of the garlic oil. turn the salad until every leaf is glossy with oil, then break 2 eggs, cooked one minute, plunk into the middle of the salad. now, before the mixing is resumed, squeeze the guide of a big fat lemon directly over the egg (if the lemon is small, use 1 ½ or even 2 of them!), and mix so that there is a thick creamy look to the lettuce. if you wish to include fillets of anchovies, and many say you must, here is where they are added 6 to 8, snipped into bits. now taste it, and don't hesitate to use your fingers. more salt? more lemon? add them, or vinegar if you wish, plenty of experts do so. (and others insist on a slug of worcestershire!) the seasoning is now as you want it, so a good ½ cup (at least) of grated parmesan is tossed in, the salad mixed some more, and finally the croutons are added, and the salad served at once so they won't become limp and soggy. like any salad of this kind, the artists adds (or subtracts) as he goes along, so caesar salad, as you make it, is all your own! serves a dozen, more or less. 1 clove garlic 2/4 cup olive oil 2 cups croutons 2 3 heads romaine ½ teaspoon salt pepper 2 eggs juice of a large lemon 6 8 fillets of anchovies (optional) ½ cup grated parmesan."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile 1952 edition [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308 309) [1956] "caesar salad 1 large head iceberg lettuce 1 large head romaine 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt dash of fresh ground pepper 1 raw egg 1/4 cup garlic wine vinegar 2 cups croutons sprinkle prepared greens with cheese. combine 1/4 cup salad oil with worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. toss lightly with greens until each piece is coated. break whole egg into greens, sprinkle with garlic wine vinegar, toss until all egg particles disappear. combine remaining oil and croutons, toss with salad. makes 8 servings."    "caesar salad featured by world famous restaurants," san mateo times, june 27, 1956 (p. 36) [1957] "caesar salad several chefs and restauranteurs claim to have originated this well known green salad. sunset first discovered the salad in a small coronado restaurant and first published the recipe in march 1945. no one seems to know whether it was created by, or for, a 'caesar.' this version was published in sunset in 1957. caesar salad is invariably tossed at the table, where everyone can watch the host or hostess season and mix the greens and drop in each additional ingredient. 1 clove garlic 3/4 cup olive or other salad oil 2 cups croutons 2 large heads romaine 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 2 eggs, cooked 1 monute juice of one large lemon 6 to 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese crush garlic in small bowl, pour over the oil, and let stand several hours. brown the croutons (preferably made from stale sourdough french bread) in 1/4 cup of the garlic oil, stirring often. (if you prefer, you can toast the bread cubes in a slow oven.) tear romaine into a large salad bowl, sprinkle with salt, and grind over a generous amount of pepper. pour over remaining garlic oil and toss until every leaf is glossy. break the 1 minute eggs into salad; squeeze over the lemon juice, and toss thorougly. add chopped anchovies and grated cheese, and toss again. lastly, add the croutons, toss genetly, and serve immediately. serves about 12."    the sunset cook book, annabel post, home economics editor [lane book company:menlo park ca] 1960 (p. 19) [1960] "the original caesar salad 3 medium heads romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp garlic flavored olive oil, about 1/3 cup wine vinegar, 2 to 3 tablespoons juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 1 minute coddled eggs freshly ground pepper dash worcestershire sauce grated parmesan cheese, 5 or 6 tablespoons caesar croutons, about 1 cup break romaine leaves into 2  to 3 inch widths. at last minute before serving, place romaine in chilled salad bowl drizzle the garlic oil over greens, then the vinegar. squeeze the lemon over, using a fork to help free the juice. break in the 1 minute eggs. grind a flurry of pepper over all. season with salt and a dash of worcestershire. sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese. roll toss 6 or 7 times, or until dressing is thoroughly combined and every leaf is coated. add caesar croutons; toss 2 or 2 times. serve at once on chilled dinner plates. if you like, garnish with rolled anchovies. makes 6 servings as main course. " "caesar croutons: cut each slice of bread in 5 strips one way, then across 5 times to make squares. spread out on cooky sheet; pour a little garlic flavored oil over. heat in extremely slow oven (225 degrees f.) 2 hours. the croutons should be so dry, they'd float on water! ten they'll stay crunch when tossed with the dressing and greens. sprinkle croutons with grated parmesan cheese. store in jar and refrigerate to keep crispness."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) caesar salad dressing this salad's special dressing plays center stage. there is no other option. of course? there are variations... [1949] "caesar dressing, serves 2 1 egg, coddled 1 minute 1 heaping tbs. grated parmesan cheese 4 tbsp. pastry cream 1/2 cup brown derby old fashioned french dressing place coddled egg in a mixing bowl, add cheese and pastry cream. blend well. slowly whip in french dressing. any salad mixed with this dressing should be garnished with garlic french bread croutons."    brown derby cookbook, robert h. cobb [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949(p. 69) commercial production notes when the legendary caesar salad was *invented* by mr. cardini in his tijuana eatery in the 1920s, he made the dressing from scratch. according to his obituary, mr. cardini actively promoted commercial manufacture of his famous salad dressing: "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he had lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted." source: los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31). according to the records of the u.s. patent and trademark office cardini's brand caesar salad dressing was introduced to the american public february 6, 1950: word mark cardini's goods and services (abandoned) ic 029. us 046. g & s: salad dressing and salad dressing mix. first use: 19500206. first use in commerce: 19780915 mark drawing code (1) typed drawing serial number 73426710 filing date may 19, 1983 current filing basis 1a original filing basis 1a owner (applicant) cardini, rosa sinan dba, caesar cardini foods individual united states 4020 sepulveda blvd. culver city california 90230 attorney of record r. welton whann type of mark trademark register principal live/dead indicator dead abandonment date july 5, 1984 [note: cardini's brand name dressing is still being made. the current trademark owner is t. marzetti company.] perhaps the convincing push mr. cardini needed to capitalize on his name was a reaction to another company which already started making caesar dressing in the late 1940s. the earliest print evidence we find for manufactured caesar salad dressing is this advertisment published in 1949; "milani's caesar dressing for caesar salads, 45 cents/6 oz bottle." source: chicago daily tribune, september 29, 1949 (p. 9) green goddess dressing food historians generally credit philip roemer, chef of the palace hotel in san francisco, for the creation of green goddess salad dressing. it was allegedly made in honor of george arliss, an actor starring in a play by that same name. the year is fuzzy because the play ran in the 1920s followed by a popular film version in the 1930s. our survey of historic american cookbooks confirms mayonnaise based salad dressing recipes proliferated during the early decades of the 20th century. in fact? entire books were devoted to salads at that time. we examined several books and found several recipes for mayonnaise tarragon anchovy dressings onion dressings. given the noteriety of green goddess, it seems surprising to find recipes named such first surfacing in the late 1930s early 1940s. sometimes they are called "green dressing." "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1931] "green goddess salad dressing one cup mayonnaise, garlic, 1 tablespoon french dressing, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chives chopped fine, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 4 fillets of anchoves.   la casa pico tea room"    fashions in foods in beverly hills, compiled by the book section beverly hills womans club [beverly hills], 3rd edition 1931 (p. 26) [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; "a new watergate crisis is sweeping the washington area, but this time only homemakers and a few business men seem to care... the crisis stems from the growing popularity of a recipe for a concoction called "watergate cake," which demands large quantities of powdered pistachio pudding mix, both in the layer cake and in its light green icing. apparently, only one firm, royal pudding, a division of standard brands, inc., distributes pistachio pudding in the washington area. supermarkets haven't been able to get engouh to cope with the demands, which began around thanksgiving time and was very heavy at christmas. store shelves have been regularly stripped of the mix the same day it is displayed...if the sales spurt is not directly attributable to the popularity of watergate cake... "the we don't knoe why this product has suddenly taken off. it's been just phenomenal..." barry scher, a spokesman for giant foods, placed the blame not only on the recipe, but also on a coincidental shortage of pistachio nuts. "that was about five months abo, the spokesman said, "and as it ended, this recipe began circulating around. we were bombarded. we hate to admit it, but we just can't keep the mix on the shelf. the onset of watergate cake mania  and the resulting effort to close the supply demand gap   has tested old friendships and challenged the ingenuity and competitive instincts of many a washington area homemaking... no one, meanwhile, seems able to pinpoint the origin of this watergate, the recipe for which has appeared in a number of newspapers, including the washington post. nor can anyone explain how the cake got its name or why pistachio is the main flavoring. one current explanation leans on the presence of crushed walnuts in the cake  "bugs" in the parlance of kids. like the giant spokesman, harold giesinger, proprietor of the watergate pastry shop, had no thoughts on where the recipe originated   except that it was not with his bakery. "we haven't invented anything to which we'd attach a name like that," he said. nor, he added, does his shop rely on pistachio as a key ingredient in any of its products. "a private source may have put it together, " he said of the recipe. wherever watergate cake started, the pudding firm would like more more problems like it. gagan suspects some people have been buying more pistachio pudding mix than they'll ever use, simply becuase it's hard to get...further relief is in sight. another manufacturer, general foods, scanning the watergate assisted pistachio market, has decided to jump in. its version is expected to hit the supermarket shelves in march..."    "a watergate cake mania," alexander sullivan, washington post, february 26, 1976 (p. b2) [recipe included, see below 1976] "according to my sister in law who lives in waynesboro, virginia, the name of the cake became prominent in that part of the country because  nixon liked pistachio nuts, hence (and a rather far fetched reasoning) the name for the watergate cake, because synonymous with  pistachio nuts, mrs. nixon and watergate. i had neither heard of pistachio pudding or the watergate cake until last fall we stopped to visit them, and she had the cake all ready for us to eat. however, her recipe is much different than the one printed in the washington post thursday in your column. sincerely yours, virginia k. wiszneauckas, wheaton, md."    "that cake," washington post, march 11, 1976 (p. va2) the earliest recipe we find for pistachio cake also employs a packaged cake mix. note! this is "mock pistachio"! compare with these: [1975] "watergate cake 1 box white cake mix 1 box pistachio instant pudding 1 cup vegetable oil 1 cup club soda 3 eggs 1/2 cup chopped walnuts mix all ingredients well (4 to 4 minutes). bake in 12 by 9 inch greased pan for 45 minutes at 350 degrees. topping for cake 1 box pistachio instant pudding 1/4 cup cold milk 1 (9 ounce) box whipped topping mix nut meats and maraschino cherries beat milk into instant pudding mix. prepare topping mix according to instructions on box. fold into pudding mixture. spread oncake and top with nuts and cherries. c.s.r. arlington."    "anne's reader exchange," washington post, november 13, 1975 (p. c17) [1976] watergate cake 1 (3 1/2 ounce) box instant pistachio pudding 1 box white cake mix (any brand) 1 cup vegetable oil 1/2 cup walnuts 1 cup ginger ale 3 eggs mix together  any order bake at 350 degrees  30 to 40 minutes. it isn't necessary to grease the pan. icing one large or two small containers frozen whipped topping 1 box instant pistachio pudding 1 1/2 cups milk mix together until smooth. top off with nuts, coconuts or cherries. lovely to look at and very moist."    "a watergate cake mania," alexander sullivan, washington post, february 26, 1976 (p. b2) [1976] "here is a fantastic cake recipe that i like to prepare for special occasions," writes nels wenman. "it was sent to me by a cousin in arizona." watergate cake with cover up icing 1 (18 1/2 ounce) package white cake mix 1 (3 1/2 ounce) package instant pistachio pudding mix 3 eggs, unbeaten 3/4 cup oil 1 cup lemon lime carbonated beverage cover up icing 3/4 cup shredded coconut 1 cup finely chopped pecans combine cake mix, pudding mix, eggs, oil and lemon lime in a bowl. beat until well blended. pour into a greased and floured 13x9 inch pan and bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes. cool. spread with cover up icing and sprinkle with coconut and pecans. cover up icing 2 (1 1/2 ounce) envelopes nondairy whipped topping mix 1 1/2 cups milk 1 (3 1/2 ounce) package instant pistachio pudding mix beat whipped topping mix, milk and pudding mix together until smooth and thick."    "my best recipe," los angeles times, june 17, 1976 (p. h6) cover up icing 2 (1 1/2 ounce) envelopes nondairy whipped topping mix 1 1/2 cups milk 1 (3 1/2 ounce) package instant pistachio pudding mix beat whipped topping mix, milk and pudding mix together until smooth and thick."    "my best recipe," los angeles times, june 17, 1976 (p. h6) where do pistachios come from? "pistachio, pistacia vera, a small tree native to parts of west asia and the levant between turkey and afghanistan, bears nuts which have for long been highly prized. the earliest traces of pistachios being eaten in turkey and the middle east date back to about 7000bc; and the species has been cultivated and improved during serveral millenia...pistachio trees were introduced from asia to europe in the 1st century ad, by the romans."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 610) "pistachio...the word originated in persian as pistah, and reached the west via greek pistakion. english originally borrowed it from french as pistace."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 258) "pistachio nut. a native of central asia and member of the cashew family, the pistachio nut has been cultivated for some 3,000 years and has a long history of popularity in the mediterranean world. but it was not until the 1930s, with the advent of vending machines, that pistachio nuts (also called pistache) imported from italy became something of a rage in the united states as a snack food...following world war ii, the evergreen trees that bear pistachios were imported to california, and although the imported nuts are still dyed, most american grown pistachios are sold without dye, in naturally tan shells."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000 volume 2 (p. 1835) "the dying of pistachios is not a middle eastern tradition but is said to have originated with a brooklyn street vendor named zaloom who colored his pistachios red to distinguish them from his competitors. the idea caught on  especially in the east  that most pistachios used to be dyed red. this is no longer true, with only about 15 percent of those sold today so colored."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 243) pistachio cookery "this pistachio, with its unique color and mild but distinctive flavour, has always been a luxury, costing three or four times as much as other nuts. it is generally eaten roasted and salted as a dessert nut. in cooking it is often used as a garnish or decoration, both in sweet and savory dishes. for example, it figures in in some of the finest pilaf dishes and in european pates and brawns which are served in slices, so that the nuts appear as attractive green specs or slivers."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 610) "in mediterranean and oriental cooking, pistachios are used in poultry sauces and stuffings and also in hash. in classic cuisine they garnish galantines, brawn (head cheese) and mortadella. in india pistachio puree is used to season rice and vegetables. pistachios go best with veal, pork and poultry. their green color (often accentuated artificially) makes them popular for creams (especially for filling cakes, such as the galacien) and for ice creams and ice cream desserts. in confectionery it is especially associated with nougat."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 900) lettuce arugula & rocket...chicory...iceberg lettuce... lamb's lettuce...romaine lettuce...water cress the food historians and linguists tell us lettuce was [most likely] first cultivated by the ancient greeks, possibly as early as the 6th century bc. there is some controversy regarding the date because there were several ancient plants fitting the description of lettuce at that time. "wild lettuce was gathered for millennia by hunter gatherers and was still being gathered by humans at the time of the ancient greeks. the latter probably began its cultivation, which was continued by the roman. the first cultivated letuuce was lactuca serriola, which is native to the mediterranean region."    the cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1801) "the ancient greeks and romans cultivated the lettuce, especially as a salad. in the east its cultivation possible dates from an earlier epoch. nevertheless it does not appear, from the original common names both in asia and europe, that this plant was generally or very anciently cultivated. there is no sanskrit nor hebrew name known, nor any in the reconstructed aryan tongue. a greek name exists, tridax; latin, latuca; persian and hindu, kahn; and the analogous arabic form chuss or chass. the latin form exists also, slightly modified, in the slav and germanic languages, which may indicate either that the western aryans diffused the plant, or that its cultivation spread with its name at a later date from the south to the north of europe. dr. bretscheider has confirmed by supposition that the lettus is not very ancient in china, and that it was introduced there from the west. he says that the first work in which it is mentioned dates from a.d. 600 to a.d. 900."    origin of cultivated plants, alphonse de candole [hafner publishing company:new york] 1964 (p. 96) "other new roman arrivals [to britain] were the garden varieties of a number of green vegetables, among them cabbage, beet, mallows, orache (atriplex), lettuce and endive..."    food and drink in britain from the stone age to the 19th century, c. anne wilson [academy broadway:chicago il] 1991 (p. 195) "lettuce..was introduced to britain by the romans, who commonly ate it cooked rather than raw. this tradition continued into and beyond the middle ages...but by the seventeeth century the memory of it was dying out (john eveyln...in his aceteria is extravagant in his praise of lettuce as a raw salad vegetable, but of cooked lettuce he notes only as an afterthought."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 189) lettuce in america "england had cultivated lettuce as of the fifteenth century, but christopher columbus may have been the first to bring it to america. lettuce was grown only in home gardens until the twentienth century, when americans' new appetite for salad made commercial production profitable."    encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 183) "both leaf and head lettuces were commonly grown in colonial and early american times. lettuce was highly perishable and was available only locally in season. however, lettuce became more readily availble in the twentieth century with the development of crisphead lettuce (iceberg is the most familiar). with sturdy leaves forming a compact, round head, these lettuces can be transported over long distances without damage. distributed by railroad from california and arizona, lettuce becmae an important year round food in america. during the 1920s and 1930s its production doubled."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 32) romaine lettuce salads made with romaine lettuce (also known as cos lettuce) were known in the united states by 1880s. romaine was used as both base and in combination with other leafy greens. our cookbooks do not specify this type of lettuce but the recipes below do. of course, this is not a definate indicator that romaine was enjoyed by all classes of people in all parts of the country. we can presume romaine was appreciated by the wealthy based on its appearance on a menu served at the harvard club's dinner in 1895 (nyt, february 22, 1895, p. 3). note: this romaine and lettuce salad was served in the classic european fashion, towards the end of the meal, just before the dessert course. [1877] "salad a la romaine. freshen two heads of lettuce in plenty of cold water. when about to serve mix in a bowl three tablespoonfuls of oil, one of lemon juice, one third of a small onion grated, inch of cayenne, white pepper and salt to taste, and a small pinch of powdered sugar: break the lettuce into the bowl; well mix, turn into the salatiere, garnish with hard boiled eggs, and serve."    "receipts for the table," new york times, january 28, 1877 (p. 9) [note: this recipe does not specify the type of lettuce to be used. "heads" imply standard usa lettuce, not the more leafy romaine.] [1886] "there is another kind [of lettuce], high in favor in paris and in some localities in this country for its tenderness and delicate flavor, but not liked by marketmen, because it will not bear rough handling. the time will come, however, when there will be such a demand for this species that all first class provision dealers will keep it. the french call it romaine, and in this country it is sometimes called roman lettuce. it does not head. the leaves are strng and not handsome whole; but one who uses the lettuce never wishes for any other."    miss parloa's new cook book, a guide to marketing and cooking, maria parloa [estes and lauriat::boston ma] 1886 (p. 52) arugula & rocket arugula (aka rocket) is an "old world" cruciferous plant. the leaves have been used for centuries in salads. they have a tangy, mustardy flavor, which makes the salad interesting in flavor and texture. americans "discovered" this tasty green in the 1990s. "the rocket is a eurasian plant with spicily hot tasting dandelion shaped leaves that are used in salads. it has become much more widely known in britain following the salad revolution of the late twentieth century. the name rocket comes via french roquette from italian ruchetta, a diminutive form of ruca, which in turn comes from latin eurca. this meant literally caterpillar', and was applied to the plant because of its hairy stems. it may have been derived from er, hedgehog'."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 284) "rocket, eruca sativa, a plant which grows wild in asia and the mediterranean region, has been introduced elsewhere, including n. america (where it is known by its italian name, arugula), and cultivated for use as a salad plant. its flavour, akin to that of horseradish or some sorts of cress, is strong in mature leaves, so these are added to salads with discretion. young leaves may be used freely. their popularity as a smart ingredient in western restaurants may obscure then fact that they are grown and liked in some places, e.g. the north of sudan...in classical rome the plant was cultivated both for its leaves and for its seeds, used as a flavouring. the seeds can also be used to produce and oil."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 667) "arugula also known as "rocket" and "garden rocket," this native of europe and western asia...is a cruciferous plant that has long provided tender, slightly bitter, mustard flavoured greens for the salad bowls of southern europeans and italian americans. lately, it has become widely available in the united states, where it has been naturalized. its leaves resemble those of the radish, which is a close relative. the seeds of arugula are also eaten, and they yield an oil that is used for culinary puroses, as a lubricant, and in medicines."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenlas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1722) "rocket, salad vegetable, one of the best native mediterranean species. rocket was grown in classical greek kitchen gardens and was equally familiar to romans. apart from the use of the leaf, rocket seed is called for as a culinary spice in apicus. rocket had an enduring reputation among aphrodesiacs...because of this reputation rocket was often served at dinners mixed with lettuce, an antaphrodesiac, so that their qualities would conteract one another."    food in the ancient world from a to z, andrew dalby [routledge:london] 2003 (p. 282) arugula & rocket in the usa based on the number of print newspaper references per decade "arugula" gained marked interest in the 1990s and became popular in the 2000s. the plant was known, but not particularly favored, from colonial times forward. presumably, this accounts for the dearth of references & recipes. [1911] "rocket: a rather coarse garden plant whose young leaves are occasionally used as a pot herb or for salads. the flowers resemble orange blossoms in odor."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [national grocer:new york] 1911 (p. 532) [1919] "b. vulgaris...rocket. winter cress. yellow rocket. europe and temperate asia. this herb of northern climates have been cultivated in england for a long time and as an early salad and also in scotland, where the bitter leaves are eaten by some. in early times, rocket was held in some repute but is now banished from cultivation yet appears in gardens as a weed...rocket is included in the list of american garden esculents by mcmahon in 1806. in 1832, bridgeman says winter cress is used as a salad in spring and autumn and by some boiled as a spinage."    sturtevant's notes onf edible plants, edited by u.p. hedrick, report of the new york agricultural experiment station for the year 1919 ii [j.b. lyon company:albany ny] 1919 (p. 82) [138] "roquette. this is a salad vegetable resembling cress in taste. it is served as a salad in the same manner, and is very popular with the creoles."    the original picayune creole cook book, 9th edition [times picayune publishing co.:new orleans la] 1938 227) [1960] "it would seem almost impossible that the most appealing and relatively abundant salad green could be available in new york and yet be relatively unknown. but there is one, and it leads to the suspicion that there may be more. the one in question has more names than joseph's coat has colors. the fact of the matter is that this green with the pungent and fascinatinf flavor goes by different names from one market to the next. ask italian green grocers for arugula, rucola or ruccoli; ask other markets for rouquette, rocket salad or, simply, rocket...most italian chefs know...that arugula or rocket...is the secret ingredient in many of their salads about town. considering the public unawareness of the plant, it has an astonishing availability...new york does not have a corner on the vegetable's availability in the united states. rocket salad is tremendously popular in the creole country of louisiana."    "food news: a green by any name," craig claiborne, new york times may 24, 1960 (p. 33) chickory salad green, cooked vegetable, and (when times are tough) coffee substitue. "chicory. semantic problems abound with chicory (cichorium intybus)  also called succory, radicchio, and red chicory), endive...and escarole, which is the broad leafed variety of endive. all three are members of the dandelion family, but there the resemblance ends. cichoirum endivia, native to india, was the ancestor of endive and known to the egyptians as well as to the ancient greeks and romans. by contrast, c. indybus is native to europe, but the names nonetheless remain confused. in the united states, chicory is generally called belgian edive, although this is also referred to simply as endive. the french, too, call it endive...and radicchio is chicory's italian name...chicory as well as endive roots are ground to become a natural coffee substitute...or in addition to regular coffee for added flavor and reduced caffeine. however, the tight hearts of belgian endive and radicchio are also attractive and slightly bitter ingredients in salads; in addition, their braised leaves can be a vegetable dish in their own right."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge unviersity press:cambridge] volume two, 2001 (p. 1753) "chicory...decribes a group of perennial cultivated plants developed from wild chicory, a common plant of europe, w. asia, and africa...chicory was used as a vegetable and for salad in classical greece and rome, but was not apparently cultivated. the leaves of the wild plant are not too bitter if gathered young. from the 16th century onwards modern cultivated forms, with larger and less bitter leaves, were developed...the practice of taking up chicory plants in the autumn, cutting off their leaves, and replanting the roots in a dark cellar so that they regrow small, white leaves originated in france. the original french variety called, like the wild plant, barbe de capucin is unusual in that the roots are replanted on their sides in angled banks and the shoots grow horizontally. around 1850 a belgian grower, experimenting with uses for old musroom compost, discovered the superior cigar shaped form witloof...the large rooted variety of chicory which is used as a coffee substitute was developed in holland during the second half of the 18th century, when coffee was newly fashionable and very expensive. all over europe people experimented with substitutes: grains, figs, acorns, and all kinds of root, especially dandelion and chicory. chicory was judged the most acceptable."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 167 8) "chicory can be served raw in salads  with vinaigrette and often with hard boiled (hard cooked) eggs and any of the various ingredients used in winter salads, including beetroot (red beets), apples, nuts, cheese and orange or grapefruit quarters. for cooked dishes, chicory heads are braised and drained; they can then be coated with bechamel sauce, sprinkled with noisette butter, served with gravy or with plain butter and herbs topped with grated cheesse and browned, or made into a puree. they can be served as an accompaniement to roasts and poultry. they can also be braised, made into a chiffanade or prepared as fritters (espsecially when served with fish). as a main dish, chicory is braised rolled in slices of ham and coated with a port and raisin sauce, or stuffed (with a fatty or lean stuffing) and browned on top."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 278) "chicory. american nomenclature is very confusing for this salad green called cichorium intybus, with its curly leaves and bright blue flowers...chicory is quite bitter and is often mixed with other salad greens. the same plant's roots are dried and ground into a granular powder, often referred to as "succory," that resembles coffee and is used as an additive to or substitute for real coffee in creole and cajun cooking, a legacy of the french influence on these cuisines...adding chicory to coffee began in new orleans during the food scarce civil war."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 73 4) lamb's lettuce (mache, cornsalad) "lamb's lettuce is a small plant of the genus valerianella with soft long roundish leaves eaten raw in salads. it has been known in britain for many centuries (john gerard mentions it in his herbal, 1597), but it was only in the 1980s, whith an increasing interest in exploring a wider range of salad leaves, that it started to become widely available commercially (the french, who call it mache, have always known its worth). the origins of its name, which may be a translation of latin latuca agnina, are not known for certain, but it presumably reflects a supposed partiality of lambs for the leaves. an alternative name, used particuarly for the wild variety, is corn salad, an allusion to the plant's commonly grown in corn fields."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 184) ""cornsalad," so named because these plants with small, bluish flowers grow in cornfields, actully refers to any of several plants of the genus valerianella...these european natives  found throughout north america as well  provide slightly bitter tasting leaves that are much appreciated in salads. the various types of cornsalad were considered weeds until the seventeenth century, when they began to be cultivated, and cultivation doubtless accounts for the different varieties now identified... common names and synonyms: european cornsalads, fat hen, field salad, hog salad, lamb's lettuce, lamb's quarter, mache...marsh salad."    world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2001, volume two (p. 1763) "lamb's lettuce. a plant with rounded leaves in a rosette form, which is usually eaten raw in a salad. it is also known...in france, as mache, doucette, valerianelle potagere, raiponce, and oreielle de lievre. it grows wild in fields, usually in autumn, but is cultivated in france from september to march and gives a good flavour to a winter salad. there are several varieties..."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 668) caesar salad simple, elegant, inexpensive, and famous. what more could a chef ask for? american cookbooks confirm chefs were serving artfully cut lettuce coated in french dressing in fancy restaurants from the late 19th century forwards. what makes caesar salad different? a memorable origination story (or two or three) and documented hollywood flair. "and now we come to it  the most talked of salad of a decade, perhaps of the century. like all recipes that have become widely known, several chefs and restaurateurs have claimed to have originated the salad. actually many of them have had a hand in promoting it, though not necessarily as a caesar. as for its origin, the best guess seems to be that the whole thing started in tia juana, during prohibition, but whether it was actually created by one named 'caesar,' or just named for him, is a matter of considerable discussion. the salad is at its best when kept simple, but as it is invariably made at table, and sometimes by show offs, it occasionally contains far too many ingredients."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile reprint [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308) classic theory of origin: "caesar salad. a salad of romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese, worcestershire sauce, and, often, anchovies. it was created by caesar cardini, an italian immigrant who opened a series of restaurants in tijuana, mexico...on fourth of july weekend in 1924 at caesar's palace, cardini concocted the salad as a main course, arranging the lettuce leaves on a plate with the intention that they would be eaten with their fingers. later cardini shredded the leaves into bite sized pieces. the salad became particularly popular with hollywood movie people who visited tijuana, and it became a featured dish at chasen's and romanoff's in los angeles."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 50 51) [note: most sources cite the restaurant as cesar's (or caesar's) place.] "it was an accident! but now caesar salad is tossed in handsome salad bowls, coast to coast and on purpose! a well known restaurateur, caesar cardini, concocted this zesty salad some 35 years ago at tijuana, mexico. here is the true story, told to us by his daughter rosa. one holiday weekend a throng of tourists descended on caesar's place. a few crates of romaine, half a case of eggs, a wheel of italian cheese, some lemons, and dry bread that was all the food left by sunday morning. what to do for the hungry crowd at dinner? caesar thought he'd have to close shop for the remainder of the holiday. instead he decided to invent a new salad form the ingredients he had on hand. he got out the eggs, the lemons, the parmesan cheese, the bread, and the big bottle of olive oil to which he previously had added garlic. with the romaine lettuce as the only greens, he experimented with a little of this and that in the dressing. finally, to bind the dressing ingredients together, he came up with the idea of coddling the eggs for a minute, then tossing them with the salad. (yes, that's right the original caesar salad was not made with completely raw eggs.) the loaves of bread he cut in tiny cubes and slowly oven toasted them to add to his salad at the very end. (the anchovies, now a familiar ingredient in caesar salad, didn't become part of the recipe until some 10 years later.) while the waiters kibitzed, caesar demonstrated his creation. 'take everything to each table,' he instructed, 'and make a ceremony of fixing the salad. plenty of fanfare. let guests think they're having the specialty of the house.' and the guests did! so rapidly did the news of this remarkable salad spread, that diners flocked to caesar's place just to learn the recipe. soon west coast restaurants adopted it; then it appeared on the finest menus in every state. caesar cardini's reward? in paris at the 1951 meeting of the international society of epicures, his salad was acclaimed the greatest recipe contribution of the united states in 50 years. but it was really at tijuana, mexico that the now world famous caesar salad was born. you'll find many variations of caesar salad, but here rosa cardini, who operates the food specialty shop her father started in los angeles and who bottles the original caesar salad dressing, share his authentic recipe and salad know how."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) story 2: "it has been fairly well established that the late caesar cardini created the caesar salad at hist restaurant in tijuana, mexico. or did he? the latest word is that an italian woman named beatriz santini composed the salad in austria in 1918. hard put for food in a country impovershed by war, she soft boiled eggs, which were plentiful, and added them to a bowl of romaine lettuce. a little parmesan cheese, a dressing of wine vinegar and olive oil, and the creation was complete. cardini never met santini. so how did he come up with the same idea? he didn't, we are told. the link was santini's son, livio, who emigrated to tijuana. livio santini got a job with cardini, who had opened a bar and restaurant on second street about 1924. one day, a hungry santini mixed up a bit of his mother's salad. a wealthy customer from la jolla invaded the kitchen as santini was crunching romaine, and she asked for a taste. it pleased her so that she ordered a serving from cardini, who came out to find what santini was eating. one week later, the salad was on the menu, ceremoniously mixed at table side by a captain and busboy. thus, the start of the cardini legend. the teller of this tale was no tale spinner. it was livio santini himself. now 78, santini was a guest of honor at tijuana's recent first caesar salad celebration."   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) story 3: "sr. alex cardini, of cardini's restaurant in mexico city, affirms that he invented the original caesar salad in 1926, naming it after his brother."    a world of vegetable cookery, alex d. hawkes [simon and schuster:new york] 1968 (p. 138) the anchovy debate: food historians agree anchovies were not part of the original recipe. these salty fillets infiltrate in the 1930s. "cardini was adamant in insisting that the salad be subtly flavored and argued against the inclusion of anchovies, whose faint flavor in his creation he believed may have come from the worcestershire sauce. he also decreed that only italian olive oil and imported parmesan cheese be used."    encyclopedia of american food and drink (p. 51) "according to santini...his mother used no anchovies, no lime or lemon juice and no croutons in her salad...the controversial anchovy, acknowledged by either beatriz santini nor caesar cardini, wound up on several salads.".   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) "the shocking truth is that while a proper caesar always has anchovy, an authentic one never does. in its original form, caesar salad was more a culinary tourist trap than a great american food standard, famous for the tableside show that came with the salad, not the anchovy. yet it is the anchovy that most caesar aficionados consider vital; only caesar wimps ask for their salad sans the small fry. so where did the anchovy come from?...the most common theory involves worcestershire sauce. the thinking is that someone, somewhere along the way...ran out of worcestershire sauce...saw anchovy on the list of ingredients and made the brilliant substitution. 'we can't figure it out,' said rosa cardini, daughter of the salad's inventor...cardini envisioned his a subtle salad, but as rosa pointed out, subtle is exactly what anchovies aren't."   "caesar! origin of the species," laurie ochoa, los angeles times, october 16, 1988 (p. l103) when did ceasar salad become popular in the usa? conventional wisdom places the invention of this salad in the mid 20s. our survey of contemporary sources suggests its was known, but not served, in southern california until a decade later. after wwii descriptions published in trendy journals (think: gourmet) sparked interest. by the mid 1950s everyone who was anyone in the usa knew what a caesar salad was. this coincides with the passing of mr. cardini. "jean harlow, mable hormand and all the stars would come to tijuana and ask for a cesar's salad, [cesar cardini] recalled...but it didn't become famous until 1937 when a screenwriter, manny wolfe, one of my regular customers, went to the house of murphy restaurant here, called for the ingredients and made the salad. the manager, di ciro, called it his salad,. but wolf took the recipe to the brown derby and chasen's and they called it caesar salad."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) "...hollywood's great delicacy, the caesar salad...the caesar salad, which mike romanoff'll let you have at a sacrifice  only 2 bucks  is glorified garlic. it's garlic with glamor he first time i heard of a 2 buck salad, i wanted to render unto caesar what was caesar's  a big loud razberry. they my beautiful wife...pointed out that it was an aristocrat of foods. like stone crabs in miami, oysters rockefeller in new orleans, lobsters in boston, cream cheese and bagels in new york. 'why do they call it caesar salad?' i kept asking. and finally i found it was invented by an italian named caesar cardini in his tijuana restaurant, called caesar's. edmund lowe tasted it there and brought it to hollywood. caeser's ex partner, peter friggerio, formerly at the colony and marguery in new york, is now the captain at henri's here where, of course, you can get a wonderful caesar salad. but confidently, the french born henri de charpentier, who's chef there and used to be at lynbrook, l. i. thinks it's a big mistake to have such a huge glamorous salad before the main course."    "dressing up garlic, early wilson, zanesville times recorder [oh], february 1, 1947 (p. 4) "los angeles revisited a few weeks ago, for the first time in two years, revealed more conclusively than almost anything else that the gastronomic highlight of the current moment is an arrangement called caesar's salad and that its consumption is constant, universal, and something to make the public prints in any fountainhead of good living like gourmet, as it has. caesar's salad, which is only infrequently encountered in restaurants in the east, but which will inevitably arrive in new york one of these fine days, is based on romaine instead of lettuce, chopped up anchovies, a liberal inclusion of heavily garlic flavored croutons, french dressing made slick by the inclusion of a couple of whole raw eggs, and the whole thing liberally showered with grated parmesan. at romanoff's, where we were taken to luncheon by gourmet's own stephen longstreet, with an assortment of local characters which included bob hope, gregory la cava, barbara stanwyck, and hedda hopper at adjacent tables, we were introduced to caesar's salad. at dave chasen's, where we dined that evening with robert hanley, the newly discovered and flourishing decorator of the county strip, we were immediately advised that caesar's salad was the thing to have. the next evening at hansen's scandia restaurant in sunset boulevard, the assembled chivalry to a man commanded caesar's salad, and subsequent skirmishes with the menus at perino's, the vine street brown derby, the garden restaurant of the town house, and other ranking restaurants of the city of angeles evolved the conviction that caesar's salad is as much of a part of the hollywood pattern as swimming pools or the new look."    "along the boulevards," lucius beebe, gourmet, june 1948, [no recipe] accessed online who was cesar cardini? an italian immigrant who wound up in tijuana. obviously savvy, mr. cardini operated a successful restaurant offering trendy cuisine to america's glamoros hollywood stars. he left tijuana in 1935 because mexican regulations against gambling were crushing his business. mr. cardini eventually settled in los angles, running an imported foods store. he cashed in on his claim to fame by selling his dressing. he passed away at the age of 60 in 1956. "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he has lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted. he was born in lago maggiore, italy, worked many european hotels and came to the united states when he was 20. for a time, before going to tijuana, he owned a restaurant in sacramento...he leaves his widow camille, a daughter rosa...two sisters [living in italy] and two brothers, alex and caudencio, who are in the restaurant business in mexico city."    "cesar cardini, creator of salad, dies at 60," los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31) "discouraged by failure of the mexican government to lift the ban on border gambling, caesar cardini has closed his gay tijuana café forever."    "resort owner quits forever," reno evening gazette, july 1, 1936 (p. 2) "caesar now runs an italian grocery store on la ciegna boulevard, movietown's restaurant row. he's regaining his claim to the salad fame by manufacturing his caesar salad dressing in a tiny kitchen behind his store."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) vintage recipes several publications claim they have "the original" recipe. all of them are slightly different. our gastronomic guess says the simpler the recipe, the closer to the original. and? most definatley no anchovies! most probably worcestershire. there are no caesar salad (or approximations) recipes in these trendy southern california publications: corona club cook book [1925], ebell society cook book [1926] or fashions of foods in beverly hills [1931]. the oldest print recipe food historians have identified (based on ingredients & method) was published in sunset (magazine) march, 1945. curiously? it's called "romaine salad." no reference to caesar. the casual reader could easily miss the connection. the caesar dressing appears in the the brown derby cookbook/cobb [1949] but not the salad. we hypothosize this omission may be at testament to the salad's "star power." enjoying a caesar salad was a glamorous public event, complete with live tableside show. sunset cook book/annabel post [1960] mentions the march 1945 recipe but prints the 1957 version (with anchovies, p. 19). [1945] "down in coronado. california, there's a restaurant called la avenida cafe which is known as the 'home of the romaine salad.' small wonder, for the salad which is their specialite de la maison is a dish to tempt the epicure. here's the recipe as given us by s. jack clapp, who is la avenida's authority on such matters. romaine salad 3 or 4 heads chilled, crisp romaine 2 handfuls crisp croutons (little cubes of fried bread) 6 tablespoons garlic oil 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 6 heaping tablespoons greated parmesan type cheese 1 egg juice of 3 lemons break the romaine in to a salad bowl; add croutons, oil, seasonings, and cheese. break the raw egg over the salad, ten pour the lemon juice over the egg. toss all together lightly from the bottom, and serve. serves 6. regarding the ingredients, mr. clapp has this to say: romaine: purchase pale green heads. remove outer leaves, wash thoroughly, shake dry, and chill in refrigerator. garlic oil: chop or mash a clove of garlic and place in bottom of a pint jar. fill jar with any salad oil keep at kitchen temperature, and use as needed. use the oil only; don't add the garlic to the salad. olive oil: in the case of this particular salad, best results are obtained if only a part (4 tablespoons) of the oil used is olive oil. black pepper: if possible, grind it yourself with a pepper mill. use plenty. parmesan type cheese: ideally, this should be freshly grated. egg: the raw egg acts as a binder and causes the dressing to be evenly distributed through the salad. the flavor of the egg is not detectable in the finished salad. with the salad, mr. clapp suggests serving garlic toast. to make it, split french rolls, brush the cut surface with garlic oil, sprinkle with parmesan type cheese and paprika, and heat in the oven."    "a salad to remember," sunset, march 1945 (p. 27) [1947] "1701. caesar salad prepare 2 cups of fried croutons (no. 203) in garlic flavored olive oil. place in wooden salad bowl rubbed with garlic, 2 medium sized heads crisp chilled romain, leaves separated and broken. sprinkle over it 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 4 oz., grated parmesan or crumbled blue cheese. add 6 tablespoons pure olive oil and juice of 2 medium sized lemons. break 2 raw eggs over salad, toss and mix gently, until trace of eggs has disappeared and the leaves have absorbed all liquid. taste for seasoning. just before serving, add the fried croutons, mixing and tossing salad again, being careful croutons do not become soggy. make at table just before serving."    the gold cook book, luis p. degouy [gallahad books:new york] 1947 (p. 815) [1950] ceasar salad from the pump room of the ambassador hotel, chicago 1 coddled egg 2 cloves garlic 1/8 teaspoon bahama mustard 1 tablespoon parmesan cheese 3/4 cup croutons 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 whole anchovies 2 heads romaine cut croutons out of sliced bread 1/2" square. roast same in oven, brown crisp under broiler. take two heads of romaine and wash thoroughly. cut same crosswise about 1/2" wide. place in wooden bowl. choose another bowl for your dressing. in this bowl break up garlic with fork and rub sides of bowl with it. add black pepper, pinch of salt, worcestershire sauce, mustard, lemon juice and mix thoroughly. then, after adding olive oil, mix thoroughly again. add cut up anchovies. mix coddled eggs to greens in wooden bowl. add salad dressing from second bowl and toss slightly. add croutons and half the amount of cheese and toss again, lightly. place on salad plate and sprinkle with remaining cheese."    love and fishes, niccolo de quattrochiocchi [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1950 (p. 365 366) [note: this book is chock full of celebrity recipes.] [1952] "[caesar cardinis original recipe] romaine lettuce, a one minute egg, garlic croutons, parmesan or romano cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, whole pepper, pear vinegar and olive oil."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) [note: preparation/method notes are not offered.] [1952] "caesar salad crush a clove of garlic and add it to ¾ of a cup of olive oil. let stand overnight. brown 2 cups of croutons, made from stale sourdough french bread, in ¼ cup of this garlic oil, stirring them carefully so that they will color on all sides. drain on paper toweling. (or, if you prefer, merely toast the bread cubes brown in a slow oven.) now break 2 large or 3 small heads of romaine into a large bowl, grind on a good generous amount of fresh black pepper and add ½ teaspoon of salt, then dress with ½ cup of the garlic oil. turn the salad until every leaf is glossy with oil, then break 2 eggs, cooked one minute, plunk into the middle of the salad. now, before the mixing is resumed, squeeze the guide of a big fat lemon directly over the egg (if the lemon is small, use 1 ½ or even 2 of them!), and mix so that there is a thick creamy look to the lettuce. if you wish to include fillets of anchovies, and many say you must, here is where they are added 6 to 8, snipped into bits. now taste it, and don't hesitate to use your fingers. more salt? more lemon? add them, or vinegar if you wish, plenty of experts do so. (and others insist on a slug of worcestershire!) the seasoning is now as you want it, so a good ½ cup (at least) of grated parmesan is tossed in, the salad mixed some more, and finally the croutons are added, and the salad served at once so they won't become limp and soggy. like any salad of this kind, the artists adds (or subtracts) as he goes along, so caesar salad, as you make it, is all your own! serves a dozen, more or less. 1 clove garlic 2/4 cup olive oil 2 cups croutons 2 3 heads romaine ½ teaspoon salt pepper 2 eggs juice of a large lemon 6 8 fillets of anchovies (optional) ½ cup grated parmesan."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile 1952 edition [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308 309) [1956] "caesar salad 1 large head iceberg lettuce 1 large head romaine 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt dash of fresh ground pepper 1 raw egg 1/4 cup garlic wine vinegar 2 cups croutons sprinkle prepared greens with cheese. combine 1/4 cup salad oil with worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. toss lightly with greens until each piece is coated. break whole egg into greens, sprinkle with garlic wine vinegar, toss until all egg particles disappear. combine remaining oil and croutons, toss with salad. makes 8 servings."    "caesar salad featured by world famous restaurants," san mateo times, june 27, 1956 (p. 36) [1957] "caesar salad several chefs and restauranteurs claim to have originated this well known green salad. sunset first discovered the salad in a small coronado restaurant and first published the recipe in march 1945. no one seems to know whether it was created by, or for, a 'caesar.' this version was published in sunset in 1957. caesar salad is invariably tossed at the table, where everyone can watch the host or hostess season and mix the greens and drop in each additional ingredient. 1 clove garlic 3/4 cup olive or other salad oil 2 cups croutons 2 large heads romaine 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 2 eggs, cooked 1 monute juice of one large lemon 6 to 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese crush garlic in small bowl, pour over the oil, and let stand several hours. brown the croutons (preferably made from stale sourdough french bread) in 1/4 cup of the garlic oil, stirring often. (if you prefer, you can toast the bread cubes in a slow oven.) tear romaine into a large salad bowl, sprinkle with salt, and grind over a generous amount of pepper. pour over remaining garlic oil and toss until every leaf is glossy. break the 1 minute eggs into salad; squeeze over the lemon juice, and toss thorougly. add chopped anchovies and grated cheese, and toss again. lastly, add the croutons, toss genetly, and serve immediately. serves about 12."    the sunset cook book, annabel post, home economics editor [lane book company:menlo park ca] 1960 (p. 19) [1960] "the original caesar salad 3 medium heads romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp garlic flavored olive oil, about 1/3 cup wine vinegar, 2 to 3 tablespoons juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 1 minute coddled eggs freshly ground pepper dash worcestershire sauce grated parmesan cheese, 5 or 6 tablespoons caesar croutons, about 1 cup break romaine leaves into 2  to 3 inch widths. at last minute before serving, place romaine in chilled salad bowl drizzle the garlic oil over greens, then the vinegar. squeeze the lemon over, using a fork to help free the juice. break in the 1 minute eggs. grind a flurry of pepper over all. season with salt and a dash of worcestershire. sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese. roll toss 6 or 7 times, or until dressing is thoroughly combined and every leaf is coated. add caesar croutons; toss 2 or 2 times. serve at once on chilled dinner plates. if you like, garnish with rolled anchovies. makes 6 servings as main course. " "caesar croutons: cut each slice of bread in 5 strips one way, then across 5 times to make squares. spread out on cooky sheet; pour a little garlic flavored oil over. heat in extremely slow oven (225 degrees f.) 2 hours. the croutons should be so dry, they'd float on water! ten they'll stay crunch when tossed with the dressing and greens. sprinkle croutons with grated parmesan cheese. store in jar and refrigerate to keep crispness."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) caesar salad dressing this salad's special dressing plays center stage. there is no other option. of course? there are variations... [1949] "caesar dressing, serves 2 1 egg, coddled 1 minute 1 heaping tbs. grated parmesan cheese 4 tbsp. pastry cream 1/2 cup brown derby old fashioned french dressing place coddled egg in a mixing bowl, add cheese and pastry cream. blend well. slowly whip in french dressing. any salad mixed with this dressing should be garnished with garlic french bread croutons."    brown derby cookbook, robert h. cobb [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949(p. 69) commercial production notes when the legendary caesar salad was *invented* by mr. cardini in his tijuana eatery in the 1920s, he made the dressing from scratch. according to his obituary, mr. cardini actively promoted commercial manufacture of his famous salad dressing: "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he had lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted." source: los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31). according to the records of the u.s. patent and trademark office cardini's brand caesar salad dressing was introduced to the american public february 6, 1950: word mark cardini's goods and services (abandoned) ic 029. us 046. g & s: salad dressing and salad dressing mix. first use: 19500206. first use in commerce: 19780915 mark drawing code (1) typed drawing serial number 73426710 filing date may 19, 1983 current filing basis 1a original filing basis 1a owner (applicant) cardini, rosa sinan dba, caesar cardini foods individual united states 4020 sepulveda blvd. culver city california 90230 attorney of record r. welton whann type of mark trademark register principal live/dead indicator dead abandonment date july 5, 1984 [note: cardini's brand name dressing is still being made. the current trademark owner is t. marzetti company.] perhaps the convincing push mr. cardini needed to capitalize on his name was a reaction to another company which already started making caesar dressing in the late 1940s. the earliest print evidence we find for manufactured caesar salad dressing is this advertisment published in 1949; "milani's caesar dressing for caesar salads, 45 cents/6 oz bottle." source: chicago daily tribune, september 29, 1949 (p. 9) green goddess dressing food historians generally credit philip roemer, chef of the palace hotel in san francisco, for the creation of green goddess salad dressing. it was allegedly made in honor of george arliss, an actor starring in a play by that same name. the year is fuzzy because the play ran in the 1920s followed by a popular film version in the 1930s. our survey of historic american cookbooks confirms mayonnaise based salad dressing recipes proliferated during the early decades of the 20th century. in fact? entire books were devoted to salads at that time. we examined several books and found several recipes for mayonnaise tarragon anchovy dressings onion dressings. given the noteriety of green goddess, it seems surprising to find recipes named such first surfacing in the late 1930s early 1940s. sometimes they are called "green dressing." "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1931] "green goddess salad dressing one cup mayonnaise, garlic, 1 tablespoon french dressing, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chives chopped fine, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 4 fillets of anchoves.   la casa pico tea room"    fashions in foods in beverly hills, compiled by the book section beverly hills womans club [beverly hills], 3rd edition 1931 (p. 26) [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; "pistachio...the word originated in persian as pistah, and reached the west via greek pistakion. english originally borrowed it from french as pistace."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 258) "pistachio nut. a native of central asia and member of the cashew family, the pistachio nut has been cultivated for some 3,000 years and has a long history of popularity in the mediterranean world. but it was not until the 1930s, with the advent of vending machines, that pistachio nuts (also called pistache) imported from italy became something of a rage in the united states as a snack food...following world war ii, the evergreen trees that bear pistachios were imported to california, and although the imported nuts are still dyed, most american grown pistachios are sold without dye, in naturally tan shells."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000 volume 2 (p. 1835) "the dying of pistachios is not a middle eastern tradition but is said to have originated with a brooklyn street vendor named zaloom who colored his pistachios red to distinguish them from his competitors. the idea caught on  especially in the east  that most pistachios used to be dyed red. this is no longer true, with only about 15 percent of those sold today so colored."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 243) pistachio cookery "this pistachio, with its unique color and mild but distinctive flavour, has always been a luxury, costing three or four times as much as other nuts. it is generally eaten roasted and salted as a dessert nut. in cooking it is often used as a garnish or decoration, both in sweet and savory dishes. for example, it figures in in some of the finest pilaf dishes and in european pates and brawns which are served in slices, so that the nuts appear as attractive green specs or slivers."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 610) "in mediterranean and oriental cooking, pistachios are used in poultry sauces and stuffings and also in hash. in classic cuisine they garnish galantines, brawn (head cheese) and mortadella. in india pistachio puree is used to season rice and vegetables. pistachios go best with veal, pork and poultry. their green color (often accentuated artificially) makes them popular for creams (especially for filling cakes, such as the galacien) and for ice creams and ice cream desserts. in confectionery it is especially associated with nougat."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 900) lettuce arugula & rocket...chicory...iceberg lettuce... lamb's lettuce...romaine lettuce...water cress the food historians and linguists tell us lettuce was [most likely] first cultivated by the ancient greeks, possibly as early as the 6th century bc. there is some controversy regarding the date because there were several ancient plants fitting the description of lettuce at that time. "wild lettuce was gathered for millennia by hunter gatherers and was still being gathered by humans at the time of the ancient greeks. the latter probably began its cultivation, which was continued by the roman. the first cultivated letuuce was lactuca serriola, which is native to the mediterranean region."    the cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge university:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1801) "the ancient greeks and romans cultivated the lettuce, especially as a salad. in the east its cultivation possible dates from an earlier epoch. nevertheless it does not appear, from the original common names both in asia and europe, that this plant was generally or very anciently cultivated. there is no sanskrit nor hebrew name known, nor any in the reconstructed aryan tongue. a greek name exists, tridax; latin, latuca; persian and hindu, kahn; and the analogous arabic form chuss or chass. the latin form exists also, slightly modified, in the slav and germanic languages, which may indicate either that the western aryans diffused the plant, or that its cultivation spread with its name at a later date from the south to the north of europe. dr. bretscheider has confirmed by supposition that the lettus is not very ancient in china, and that it was introduced there from the west. he says that the first work in which it is mentioned dates from a.d. 600 to a.d. 900."    origin of cultivated plants, alphonse de candole [hafner publishing company:new york] 1964 (p. 96) "other new roman arrivals [to britain] were the garden varieties of a number of green vegetables, among them cabbage, beet, mallows, orache (atriplex), lettuce and endive..."    food and drink in britain from the stone age to the 19th century, c. anne wilson [academy broadway:chicago il] 1991 (p. 195) "lettuce..was introduced to britain by the romans, who commonly ate it cooked rather than raw. this tradition continued into and beyond the middle ages...but by the seventeeth century the memory of it was dying out (john eveyln...in his aceteria is extravagant in his praise of lettuce as a raw salad vegetable, but of cooked lettuce he notes only as an afterthought."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 189) lettuce in america "england had cultivated lettuce as of the fifteenth century, but christopher columbus may have been the first to bring it to america. lettuce was grown only in home gardens until the twentienth century, when americans' new appetite for salad made commercial production profitable."    encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 183) "both leaf and head lettuces were commonly grown in colonial and early american times. lettuce was highly perishable and was available only locally in season. however, lettuce became more readily availble in the twentieth century with the development of crisphead lettuce (iceberg is the most familiar). with sturdy leaves forming a compact, round head, these lettuces can be transported over long distances without damage. distributed by railroad from california and arizona, lettuce becmae an important year round food in america. during the 1920s and 1930s its production doubled."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 32) romaine lettuce salads made with romaine lettuce (also known as cos lettuce) were known in the united states by 1880s. romaine was used as both base and in combination with other leafy greens. our cookbooks do not specify this type of lettuce but the recipes below do. of course, this is not a definate indicator that romaine was enjoyed by all classes of people in all parts of the country. we can presume romaine was appreciated by the wealthy based on its appearance on a menu served at the harvard club's dinner in 1895 (nyt, february 22, 1895, p. 3). note: this romaine and lettuce salad was served in the classic european fashion, towards the end of the meal, just before the dessert course. [1877] "salad a la romaine. freshen two heads of lettuce in plenty of cold water. when about to serve mix in a bowl three tablespoonfuls of oil, one of lemon juice, one third of a small onion grated, inch of cayenne, white pepper and salt to taste, and a small pinch of powdered sugar: break the lettuce into the bowl; well mix, turn into the salatiere, garnish with hard boiled eggs, and serve."    "receipts for the table," new york times, january 28, 1877 (p. 9) [note: this recipe does not specify the type of lettuce to be used. "heads" imply standard usa lettuce, not the more leafy romaine.] [1886] "there is another kind [of lettuce], high in favor in paris and in some localities in this country for its tenderness and delicate flavor, but not liked by marketmen, because it will not bear rough handling. the time will come, however, when there will be such a demand for this species that all first class provision dealers will keep it. the french call it romaine, and in this country it is sometimes called roman lettuce. it does not head. the leaves are strng and not handsome whole; but one who uses the lettuce never wishes for any other."    miss parloa's new cook book, a guide to marketing and cooking, maria parloa [estes and lauriat::boston ma] 1886 (p. 52) arugula & rocket arugula (aka rocket) is an "old world" cruciferous plant. the leaves have been used for centuries in salads. they have a tangy, mustardy flavor, which makes the salad interesting in flavor and texture. americans "discovered" this tasty green in the 1990s. "the rocket is a eurasian plant with spicily hot tasting dandelion shaped leaves that are used in salads. it has become much more widely known in britain following the salad revolution of the late twentieth century. the name rocket comes via french roquette from italian ruchetta, a diminutive form of ruca, which in turn comes from latin eurca. this meant literally caterpillar', and was applied to the plant because of its hairy stems. it may have been derived from er, hedgehog'."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 284) "rocket, eruca sativa, a plant which grows wild in asia and the mediterranean region, has been introduced elsewhere, including n. america (where it is known by its italian name, arugula), and cultivated for use as a salad plant. its flavour, akin to that of horseradish or some sorts of cress, is strong in mature leaves, so these are added to salads with discretion. young leaves may be used freely. their popularity as a smart ingredient in western restaurants may obscure then fact that they are grown and liked in some places, e.g. the north of sudan...in classical rome the plant was cultivated both for its leaves and for its seeds, used as a flavouring. the seeds can also be used to produce and oil."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 667) "arugula also known as "rocket" and "garden rocket," this native of europe and western asia...is a cruciferous plant that has long provided tender, slightly bitter, mustard flavoured greens for the salad bowls of southern europeans and italian americans. lately, it has become widely available in the united states, where it has been naturalized. its leaves resemble those of the radish, which is a close relative. the seeds of arugula are also eaten, and they yield an oil that is used for culinary puroses, as a lubricant, and in medicines."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenlas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1722) "rocket, salad vegetable, one of the best native mediterranean species. rocket was grown in classical greek kitchen gardens and was equally familiar to romans. apart from the use of the leaf, rocket seed is called for as a culinary spice in apicus. rocket had an enduring reputation among aphrodesiacs...because of this reputation rocket was often served at dinners mixed with lettuce, an antaphrodesiac, so that their qualities would conteract one another."    food in the ancient world from a to z, andrew dalby [routledge:london] 2003 (p. 282) arugula & rocket in the usa based on the number of print newspaper references per decade "arugula" gained marked interest in the 1990s and became popular in the 2000s. the plant was known, but not particularly favored, from colonial times forward. presumably, this accounts for the dearth of references & recipes. [1911] "rocket: a rather coarse garden plant whose young leaves are occasionally used as a pot herb or for salads. the flowers resemble orange blossoms in odor."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [national grocer:new york] 1911 (p. 532) [1919] "b. vulgaris...rocket. winter cress. yellow rocket. europe and temperate asia. this herb of northern climates have been cultivated in england for a long time and as an early salad and also in scotland, where the bitter leaves are eaten by some. in early times, rocket was held in some repute but is now banished from cultivation yet appears in gardens as a weed...rocket is included in the list of american garden esculents by mcmahon in 1806. in 1832, bridgeman says winter cress is used as a salad in spring and autumn and by some boiled as a spinage."    sturtevant's notes onf edible plants, edited by u.p. hedrick, report of the new york agricultural experiment station for the year 1919 ii [j.b. lyon company:albany ny] 1919 (p. 82) [138] "roquette. this is a salad vegetable resembling cress in taste. it is served as a salad in the same manner, and is very popular with the creoles."    the original picayune creole cook book, 9th edition [times picayune publishing co.:new orleans la] 1938 227) [1960] "it would seem almost impossible that the most appealing and relatively abundant salad green could be available in new york and yet be relatively unknown. but there is one, and it leads to the suspicion that there may be more. the one in question has more names than joseph's coat has colors. the fact of the matter is that this green with the pungent and fascinatinf flavor goes by different names from one market to the next. ask italian green grocers for arugula, rucola or ruccoli; ask other markets for rouquette, rocket salad or, simply, rocket...most italian chefs know...that arugula or rocket...is the secret ingredient in many of their salads about town. considering the public unawareness of the plant, it has an astonishing availability...new york does not have a corner on the vegetable's availability in the united states. rocket salad is tremendously popular in the creole country of louisiana."    "food news: a green by any name," craig claiborne, new york times may 24, 1960 (p. 33) chickory salad green, cooked vegetable, and (when times are tough) coffee substitue. "chicory. semantic problems abound with chicory (cichorium intybus)  also called succory, radicchio, and red chicory), endive...and escarole, which is the broad leafed variety of endive. all three are members of the dandelion family, but there the resemblance ends. cichoirum endivia, native to india, was the ancestor of endive and known to the egyptians as well as to the ancient greeks and romans. by contrast, c. indybus is native to europe, but the names nonetheless remain confused. in the united states, chicory is generally called belgian edive, although this is also referred to simply as endive. the french, too, call it endive...and radicchio is chicory's italian name...chicory as well as endive roots are ground to become a natural coffee substitute...or in addition to regular coffee for added flavor and reduced caffeine. however, the tight hearts of belgian endive and radicchio are also attractive and slightly bitter ingredients in salads; in addition, their braised leaves can be a vegetable dish in their own right."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge unviersity press:cambridge] volume two, 2001 (p. 1753) "chicory...decribes a group of perennial cultivated plants developed from wild chicory, a common plant of europe, w. asia, and africa...chicory was used as a vegetable and for salad in classical greece and rome, but was not apparently cultivated. the leaves of the wild plant are not too bitter if gathered young. from the 16th century onwards modern cultivated forms, with larger and less bitter leaves, were developed...the practice of taking up chicory plants in the autumn, cutting off their leaves, and replanting the roots in a dark cellar so that they regrow small, white leaves originated in france. the original french variety called, like the wild plant, barbe de capucin is unusual in that the roots are replanted on their sides in angled banks and the shoots grow horizontally. around 1850 a belgian grower, experimenting with uses for old musroom compost, discovered the superior cigar shaped form witloof...the large rooted variety of chicory which is used as a coffee substitute was developed in holland during the second half of the 18th century, when coffee was newly fashionable and very expensive. all over europe people experimented with substitutes: grains, figs, acorns, and all kinds of root, especially dandelion and chicory. chicory was judged the most acceptable."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 167 8) "chicory can be served raw in salads  with vinaigrette and often with hard boiled (hard cooked) eggs and any of the various ingredients used in winter salads, including beetroot (red beets), apples, nuts, cheese and orange or grapefruit quarters. for cooked dishes, chicory heads are braised and drained; they can then be coated with bechamel sauce, sprinkled with noisette butter, served with gravy or with plain butter and herbs topped with grated cheesse and browned, or made into a puree. they can be served as an accompaniement to roasts and poultry. they can also be braised, made into a chiffanade or prepared as fritters (espsecially when served with fish). as a main dish, chicory is braised rolled in slices of ham and coated with a port and raisin sauce, or stuffed (with a fatty or lean stuffing) and browned on top."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 278) "chicory. american nomenclature is very confusing for this salad green called cichorium intybus, with its curly leaves and bright blue flowers...chicory is quite bitter and is often mixed with other salad greens. the same plant's roots are dried and ground into a granular powder, often referred to as "succory," that resembles coffee and is used as an additive to or substitute for real coffee in creole and cajun cooking, a legacy of the french influence on these cuisines...adding chicory to coffee began in new orleans during the food scarce civil war."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 73 4) lamb's lettuce (mache, cornsalad) "lamb's lettuce is a small plant of the genus valerianella with soft long roundish leaves eaten raw in salads. it has been known in britain for many centuries (john gerard mentions it in his herbal, 1597), but it was only in the 1980s, whith an increasing interest in exploring a wider range of salad leaves, that it started to become widely available commercially (the french, who call it mache, have always known its worth). the origins of its name, which may be a translation of latin latuca agnina, are not known for certain, but it presumably reflects a supposed partiality of lambs for the leaves. an alternative name, used particuarly for the wild variety, is corn salad, an allusion to the plant's commonly grown in corn fields."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 184) ""cornsalad," so named because these plants with small, bluish flowers grow in cornfields, actully refers to any of several plants of the genus valerianella...these european natives  found throughout north america as well  provide slightly bitter tasting leaves that are much appreciated in salads. the various types of cornsalad were considered weeds until the seventeenth century, when they began to be cultivated, and cultivation doubtless accounts for the different varieties now identified... common names and synonyms: european cornsalads, fat hen, field salad, hog salad, lamb's lettuce, lamb's quarter, mache...marsh salad."    world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2001, volume two (p. 1763) "lamb's lettuce. a plant with rounded leaves in a rosette form, which is usually eaten raw in a salad. it is also known...in france, as mache, doucette, valerianelle potagere, raiponce, and oreielle de lievre. it grows wild in fields, usually in autumn, but is cultivated in france from september to march and gives a good flavour to a winter salad. there are several varieties..."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 668) caesar salad simple, elegant, inexpensive, and famous. what more could a chef ask for? american cookbooks confirm chefs were serving artfully cut lettuce coated in french dressing in fancy restaurants from the late 19th century forwards. what makes caesar salad different? a memorable origination story (or two or three) and documented hollywood flair. "and now we come to it  the most talked of salad of a decade, perhaps of the century. like all recipes that have become widely known, several chefs and restaurateurs have claimed to have originated the salad. actually many of them have had a hand in promoting it, though not necessarily as a caesar. as for its origin, the best guess seems to be that the whole thing started in tia juana, during prohibition, but whether it was actually created by one named 'caesar,' or just named for him, is a matter of considerable discussion. the salad is at its best when kept simple, but as it is invariably made at table, and sometimes by show offs, it occasionally contains far too many ingredients."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile reprint [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308) classic theory of origin: "caesar salad. a salad of romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese, worcestershire sauce, and, often, anchovies. it was created by caesar cardini, an italian immigrant who opened a series of restaurants in tijuana, mexico...on fourth of july weekend in 1924 at caesar's palace, cardini concocted the salad as a main course, arranging the lettuce leaves on a plate with the intention that they would be eaten with their fingers. later cardini shredded the leaves into bite sized pieces. the salad became particularly popular with hollywood movie people who visited tijuana, and it became a featured dish at chasen's and romanoff's in los angeles."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 50 51) [note: most sources cite the restaurant as cesar's (or caesar's) place.] "it was an accident! but now caesar salad is tossed in handsome salad bowls, coast to coast and on purpose! a well known restaurateur, caesar cardini, concocted this zesty salad some 35 years ago at tijuana, mexico. here is the true story, told to us by his daughter rosa. one holiday weekend a throng of tourists descended on caesar's place. a few crates of romaine, half a case of eggs, a wheel of italian cheese, some lemons, and dry bread that was all the food left by sunday morning. what to do for the hungry crowd at dinner? caesar thought he'd have to close shop for the remainder of the holiday. instead he decided to invent a new salad form the ingredients he had on hand. he got out the eggs, the lemons, the parmesan cheese, the bread, and the big bottle of olive oil to which he previously had added garlic. with the romaine lettuce as the only greens, he experimented with a little of this and that in the dressing. finally, to bind the dressing ingredients together, he came up with the idea of coddling the eggs for a minute, then tossing them with the salad. (yes, that's right the original caesar salad was not made with completely raw eggs.) the loaves of bread he cut in tiny cubes and slowly oven toasted them to add to his salad at the very end. (the anchovies, now a familiar ingredient in caesar salad, didn't become part of the recipe until some 10 years later.) while the waiters kibitzed, caesar demonstrated his creation. 'take everything to each table,' he instructed, 'and make a ceremony of fixing the salad. plenty of fanfare. let guests think they're having the specialty of the house.' and the guests did! so rapidly did the news of this remarkable salad spread, that diners flocked to caesar's place just to learn the recipe. soon west coast restaurants adopted it; then it appeared on the finest menus in every state. caesar cardini's reward? in paris at the 1951 meeting of the international society of epicures, his salad was acclaimed the greatest recipe contribution of the united states in 50 years. but it was really at tijuana, mexico that the now world famous caesar salad was born. you'll find many variations of caesar salad, but here rosa cardini, who operates the food specialty shop her father started in los angeles and who bottles the original caesar salad dressing, share his authentic recipe and salad know how."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) story 2: "it has been fairly well established that the late caesar cardini created the caesar salad at hist restaurant in tijuana, mexico. or did he? the latest word is that an italian woman named beatriz santini composed the salad in austria in 1918. hard put for food in a country impovershed by war, she soft boiled eggs, which were plentiful, and added them to a bowl of romaine lettuce. a little parmesan cheese, a dressing of wine vinegar and olive oil, and the creation was complete. cardini never met santini. so how did he come up with the same idea? he didn't, we are told. the link was santini's son, livio, who emigrated to tijuana. livio santini got a job with cardini, who had opened a bar and restaurant on second street about 1924. one day, a hungry santini mixed up a bit of his mother's salad. a wealthy customer from la jolla invaded the kitchen as santini was crunching romaine, and she asked for a taste. it pleased her so that she ordered a serving from cardini, who came out to find what santini was eating. one week later, the salad was on the menu, ceremoniously mixed at table side by a captain and busboy. thus, the start of the cardini legend. the teller of this tale was no tale spinner. it was livio santini himself. now 78, santini was a guest of honor at tijuana's recent first caesar salad celebration."   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) story 3: "sr. alex cardini, of cardini's restaurant in mexico city, affirms that he invented the original caesar salad in 1926, naming it after his brother."    a world of vegetable cookery, alex d. hawkes [simon and schuster:new york] 1968 (p. 138) the anchovy debate: food historians agree anchovies were not part of the original recipe. these salty fillets infiltrate in the 1930s. "cardini was adamant in insisting that the salad be subtly flavored and argued against the inclusion of anchovies, whose faint flavor in his creation he believed may have come from the worcestershire sauce. he also decreed that only italian olive oil and imported parmesan cheese be used."    encyclopedia of american food and drink (p. 51) "according to santini...his mother used no anchovies, no lime or lemon juice and no croutons in her salad...the controversial anchovy, acknowledged by either beatriz santini nor caesar cardini, wound up on several salads.".   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) "the shocking truth is that while a proper caesar always has anchovy, an authentic one never does. in its original form, caesar salad was more a culinary tourist trap than a great american food standard, famous for the tableside show that came with the salad, not the anchovy. yet it is the anchovy that most caesar aficionados consider vital; only caesar wimps ask for their salad sans the small fry. so where did the anchovy come from?...the most common theory involves worcestershire sauce. the thinking is that someone, somewhere along the way...ran out of worcestershire sauce...saw anchovy on the list of ingredients and made the brilliant substitution. 'we can't figure it out,' said rosa cardini, daughter of the salad's inventor...cardini envisioned his a subtle salad, but as rosa pointed out, subtle is exactly what anchovies aren't."   "caesar! origin of the species," laurie ochoa, los angeles times, october 16, 1988 (p. l103) when did ceasar salad become popular in the usa? conventional wisdom places the invention of this salad in the mid 20s. our survey of contemporary sources suggests its was known, but not served, in southern california until a decade later. after wwii descriptions published in trendy journals (think: gourmet) sparked interest. by the mid 1950s everyone who was anyone in the usa knew what a caesar salad was. this coincides with the passing of mr. cardini. "jean harlow, mable hormand and all the stars would come to tijuana and ask for a cesar's salad, [cesar cardini] recalled...but it didn't become famous until 1937 when a screenwriter, manny wolfe, one of my regular customers, went to the house of murphy restaurant here, called for the ingredients and made the salad. the manager, di ciro, called it his salad,. but wolf took the recipe to the brown derby and chasen's and they called it caesar salad."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) "...hollywood's great delicacy, the caesar salad...the caesar salad, which mike romanoff'll let you have at a sacrifice  only 2 bucks  is glorified garlic. it's garlic with glamor he first time i heard of a 2 buck salad, i wanted to render unto caesar what was caesar's  a big loud razberry. they my beautiful wife...pointed out that it was an aristocrat of foods. like stone crabs in miami, oysters rockefeller in new orleans, lobsters in boston, cream cheese and bagels in new york. 'why do they call it caesar salad?' i kept asking. and finally i found it was invented by an italian named caesar cardini in his tijuana restaurant, called caesar's. edmund lowe tasted it there and brought it to hollywood. caeser's ex partner, peter friggerio, formerly at the colony and marguery in new york, is now the captain at henri's here where, of course, you can get a wonderful caesar salad. but confidently, the french born henri de charpentier, who's chef there and used to be at lynbrook, l. i. thinks it's a big mistake to have such a huge glamorous salad before the main course."    "dressing up garlic, early wilson, zanesville times recorder [oh], february 1, 1947 (p. 4) "los angeles revisited a few weeks ago, for the first time in two years, revealed more conclusively than almost anything else that the gastronomic highlight of the current moment is an arrangement called caesar's salad and that its consumption is constant, universal, and something to make the public prints in any fountainhead of good living like gourmet, as it has. caesar's salad, which is only infrequently encountered in restaurants in the east, but which will inevitably arrive in new york one of these fine days, is based on romaine instead of lettuce, chopped up anchovies, a liberal inclusion of heavily garlic flavored croutons, french dressing made slick by the inclusion of a couple of whole raw eggs, and the whole thing liberally showered with grated parmesan. at romanoff's, where we were taken to luncheon by gourmet's own stephen longstreet, with an assortment of local characters which included bob hope, gregory la cava, barbara stanwyck, and hedda hopper at adjacent tables, we were introduced to caesar's salad. at dave chasen's, where we dined that evening with robert hanley, the newly discovered and flourishing decorator of the county strip, we were immediately advised that caesar's salad was the thing to have. the next evening at hansen's scandia restaurant in sunset boulevard, the assembled chivalry to a man commanded caesar's salad, and subsequent skirmishes with the menus at perino's, the vine street brown derby, the garden restaurant of the town house, and other ranking restaurants of the city of angeles evolved the conviction that caesar's salad is as much of a part of the hollywood pattern as swimming pools or the new look."    "along the boulevards," lucius beebe, gourmet, june 1948, [no recipe] accessed online who was cesar cardini? an italian immigrant who wound up in tijuana. obviously savvy, mr. cardini operated a successful restaurant offering trendy cuisine to america's glamoros hollywood stars. he left tijuana in 1935 because mexican regulations against gambling were crushing his business. mr. cardini eventually settled in los angles, running an imported foods store. he cashed in on his claim to fame by selling his dressing. he passed away at the age of 60 in 1956. "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he has lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted. he was born in lago maggiore, italy, worked many european hotels and came to the united states when he was 20. for a time, before going to tijuana, he owned a restaurant in sacramento...he leaves his widow camille, a daughter rosa...two sisters [living in italy] and two brothers, alex and caudencio, who are in the restaurant business in mexico city."    "cesar cardini, creator of salad, dies at 60," los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31) "discouraged by failure of the mexican government to lift the ban on border gambling, caesar cardini has closed his gay tijuana café forever."    "resort owner quits forever," reno evening gazette, july 1, 1936 (p. 2) "caesar now runs an italian grocery store on la ciegna boulevard, movietown's restaurant row. he's regaining his claim to the salad fame by manufacturing his caesar salad dressing in a tiny kitchen behind his store."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) vintage recipes several publications claim they have "the original" recipe. all of them are slightly different. our gastronomic guess says the simpler the recipe, the closer to the original. and? most definatley no anchovies! most probably worcestershire. there are no caesar salad (or approximations) recipes in these trendy southern california publications: corona club cook book [1925], ebell society cook book [1926] or fashions of foods in beverly hills [1931]. the oldest print recipe food historians have identified (based on ingredients & method) was published in sunset (magazine) march, 1945. curiously? it's called "romaine salad." no reference to caesar. the casual reader could easily miss the connection. the caesar dressing appears in the the brown derby cookbook/cobb [1949] but not the salad. we hypothosize this omission may be at testament to the salad's "star power." enjoying a caesar salad was a glamorous public event, complete with live tableside show. sunset cook book/annabel post [1960] mentions the march 1945 recipe but prints the 1957 version (with anchovies, p. 19). [1945] "down in coronado. california, there's a restaurant called la avenida cafe which is known as the 'home of the romaine salad.' small wonder, for the salad which is their specialite de la maison is a dish to tempt the epicure. here's the recipe as given us by s. jack clapp, who is la avenida's authority on such matters. romaine salad 3 or 4 heads chilled, crisp romaine 2 handfuls crisp croutons (little cubes of fried bread) 6 tablespoons garlic oil 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 6 heaping tablespoons greated parmesan type cheese 1 egg juice of 3 lemons break the romaine in to a salad bowl; add croutons, oil, seasonings, and cheese. break the raw egg over the salad, ten pour the lemon juice over the egg. toss all together lightly from the bottom, and serve. serves 6. regarding the ingredients, mr. clapp has this to say: romaine: purchase pale green heads. remove outer leaves, wash thoroughly, shake dry, and chill in refrigerator. garlic oil: chop or mash a clove of garlic and place in bottom of a pint jar. fill jar with any salad oil keep at kitchen temperature, and use as needed. use the oil only; don't add the garlic to the salad. olive oil: in the case of this particular salad, best results are obtained if only a part (4 tablespoons) of the oil used is olive oil. black pepper: if possible, grind it yourself with a pepper mill. use plenty. parmesan type cheese: ideally, this should be freshly grated. egg: the raw egg acts as a binder and causes the dressing to be evenly distributed through the salad. the flavor of the egg is not detectable in the finished salad. with the salad, mr. clapp suggests serving garlic toast. to make it, split french rolls, brush the cut surface with garlic oil, sprinkle with parmesan type cheese and paprika, and heat in the oven."    "a salad to remember," sunset, march 1945 (p. 27) [1947] "1701. caesar salad prepare 2 cups of fried croutons (no. 203) in garlic flavored olive oil. place in wooden salad bowl rubbed with garlic, 2 medium sized heads crisp chilled romain, leaves separated and broken. sprinkle over it 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 4 oz., grated parmesan or crumbled blue cheese. add 6 tablespoons pure olive oil and juice of 2 medium sized lemons. break 2 raw eggs over salad, toss and mix gently, until trace of eggs has disappeared and the leaves have absorbed all liquid. taste for seasoning. just before serving, add the fried croutons, mixing and tossing salad again, being careful croutons do not become soggy. make at table just before serving."    the gold cook book, luis p. degouy [gallahad books:new york] 1947 (p. 815) [1950] ceasar salad from the pump room of the ambassador hotel, chicago 1 coddled egg 2 cloves garlic 1/8 teaspoon bahama mustard 1 tablespoon parmesan cheese 3/4 cup croutons 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 whole anchovies 2 heads romaine cut croutons out of sliced bread 1/2" square. roast same in oven, brown crisp under broiler. take two heads of romaine and wash thoroughly. cut same crosswise about 1/2" wide. place in wooden bowl. choose another bowl for your dressing. in this bowl break up garlic with fork and rub sides of bowl with it. add black pepper, pinch of salt, worcestershire sauce, mustard, lemon juice and mix thoroughly. then, after adding olive oil, mix thoroughly again. add cut up anchovies. mix coddled eggs to greens in wooden bowl. add salad dressing from second bowl and toss slightly. add croutons and half the amount of cheese and toss again, lightly. place on salad plate and sprinkle with remaining cheese."    love and fishes, niccolo de quattrochiocchi [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1950 (p. 365 366) [note: this book is chock full of celebrity recipes.] [1952] "[caesar cardinis original recipe] romaine lettuce, a one minute egg, garlic croutons, parmesan or romano cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, whole pepper, pear vinegar and olive oil."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) [note: preparation/method notes are not offered.] [1952] "caesar salad crush a clove of garlic and add it to ¾ of a cup of olive oil. let stand overnight. brown 2 cups of croutons, made from stale sourdough french bread, in ¼ cup of this garlic oil, stirring them carefully so that they will color on all sides. drain on paper toweling. (or, if you prefer, merely toast the bread cubes brown in a slow oven.) now break 2 large or 3 small heads of romaine into a large bowl, grind on a good generous amount of fresh black pepper and add ½ teaspoon of salt, then dress with ½ cup of the garlic oil. turn the salad until every leaf is glossy with oil, then break 2 eggs, cooked one minute, plunk into the middle of the salad. now, before the mixing is resumed, squeeze the guide of a big fat lemon directly over the egg (if the lemon is small, use 1 ½ or even 2 of them!), and mix so that there is a thick creamy look to the lettuce. if you wish to include fillets of anchovies, and many say you must, here is where they are added 6 to 8, snipped into bits. now taste it, and don't hesitate to use your fingers. more salt? more lemon? add them, or vinegar if you wish, plenty of experts do so. (and others insist on a slug of worcestershire!) the seasoning is now as you want it, so a good ½ cup (at least) of grated parmesan is tossed in, the salad mixed some more, and finally the croutons are added, and the salad served at once so they won't become limp and soggy. like any salad of this kind, the artists adds (or subtracts) as he goes along, so caesar salad, as you make it, is all your own! serves a dozen, more or less. 1 clove garlic 2/4 cup olive oil 2 cups croutons 2 3 heads romaine ½ teaspoon salt pepper 2 eggs juice of a large lemon 6 8 fillets of anchovies (optional) ½ cup grated parmesan."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile 1952 edition [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308 309) [1956] "caesar salad 1 large head iceberg lettuce 1 large head romaine 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt dash of fresh ground pepper 1 raw egg 1/4 cup garlic wine vinegar 2 cups croutons sprinkle prepared greens with cheese. combine 1/4 cup salad oil with worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. toss lightly with greens until each piece is coated. break whole egg into greens, sprinkle with garlic wine vinegar, toss until all egg particles disappear. combine remaining oil and croutons, toss with salad. makes 8 servings."    "caesar salad featured by world famous restaurants," san mateo times, june 27, 1956 (p. 36) [1957] "caesar salad several chefs and restauranteurs claim to have originated this well known green salad. sunset first discovered the salad in a small coronado restaurant and first published the recipe in march 1945. no one seems to know whether it was created by, or for, a 'caesar.' this version was published in sunset in 1957. caesar salad is invariably tossed at the table, where everyone can watch the host or hostess season and mix the greens and drop in each additional ingredient. 1 clove garlic 3/4 cup olive or other salad oil 2 cups croutons 2 large heads romaine 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 2 eggs, cooked 1 monute juice of one large lemon 6 to 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese crush garlic in small bowl, pour over the oil, and let stand several hours. brown the croutons (preferably made from stale sourdough french bread) in 1/4 cup of the garlic oil, stirring often. (if you prefer, you can toast the bread cubes in a slow oven.) tear romaine into a large salad bowl, sprinkle with salt, and grind over a generous amount of pepper. pour over remaining garlic oil and toss until every leaf is glossy. break the 1 minute eggs into salad; squeeze over the lemon juice, and toss thorougly. add chopped anchovies and grated cheese, and toss again. lastly, add the croutons, toss genetly, and serve immediately. serves about 12."    the sunset cook book, annabel post, home economics editor [lane book company:menlo park ca] 1960 (p. 19) [1960] "the original caesar salad 3 medium heads romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp garlic flavored olive oil, about 1/3 cup wine vinegar, 2 to 3 tablespoons juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 1 minute coddled eggs freshly ground pepper dash worcestershire sauce grated parmesan cheese, 5 or 6 tablespoons caesar croutons, about 1 cup break romaine leaves into 2  to 3 inch widths. at last minute before serving, place romaine in chilled salad bowl drizzle the garlic oil over greens, then the vinegar. squeeze the lemon over, using a fork to help free the juice. break in the 1 minute eggs. grind a flurry of pepper over all. season with salt and a dash of worcestershire. sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese. roll toss 6 or 7 times, or until dressing is thoroughly combined and every leaf is coated. add caesar croutons; toss 2 or 2 times. serve at once on chilled dinner plates. if you like, garnish with rolled anchovies. makes 6 servings as main course. " "caesar croutons: cut each slice of bread in 5 strips one way, then across 5 times to make squares. spread out on cooky sheet; pour a little garlic flavored oil over. heat in extremely slow oven (225 degrees f.) 2 hours. the croutons should be so dry, they'd float on water! ten they'll stay crunch when tossed with the dressing and greens. sprinkle croutons with grated parmesan cheese. store in jar and refrigerate to keep crispness."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) caesar salad dressing this salad's special dressing plays center stage. there is no other option. of course? there are variations... [1949] "caesar dressing, serves 2 1 egg, coddled 1 minute 1 heaping tbs. grated parmesan cheese 4 tbsp. pastry cream 1/2 cup brown derby old fashioned french dressing place coddled egg in a mixing bowl, add cheese and pastry cream. blend well. slowly whip in french dressing. any salad mixed with this dressing should be garnished with garlic french bread croutons."    brown derby cookbook, robert h. cobb [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949(p. 69) commercial production notes when the legendary caesar salad was *invented* by mr. cardini in his tijuana eatery in the 1920s, he made the dressing from scratch. according to his obituary, mr. cardini actively promoted commercial manufacture of his famous salad dressing: "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he had lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted." source: los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31). according to the records of the u.s. patent and trademark office cardini's brand caesar salad dressing was introduced to the american public february 6, 1950: word mark cardini's goods and services (abandoned) ic 029. us 046. g & s: salad dressing and salad dressing mix. first use: 19500206. first use in commerce: 19780915 mark drawing code (1) typed drawing serial number 73426710 filing date may 19, 1983 current filing basis 1a original filing basis 1a owner (applicant) cardini, rosa sinan dba, caesar cardini foods individual united states 4020 sepulveda blvd. culver city california 90230 attorney of record r. welton whann type of mark trademark register principal live/dead indicator dead abandonment date july 5, 1984 [note: cardini's brand name dressing is still being made. the current trademark owner is t. marzetti company.] perhaps the convincing push mr. cardini needed to capitalize on his name was a reaction to another company which already started making caesar dressing in the late 1940s. the earliest print evidence we find for manufactured caesar salad dressing is this advertisment published in 1949; "milani's caesar dressing for caesar salads, 45 cents/6 oz bottle." source: chicago daily tribune, september 29, 1949 (p. 9) green goddess dressing food historians generally credit philip roemer, chef of the palace hotel in san francisco, for the creation of green goddess salad dressing. it was allegedly made in honor of george arliss, an actor starring in a play by that same name. the year is fuzzy because the play ran in the 1920s followed by a popular film version in the 1930s. our survey of historic american cookbooks confirms mayonnaise based salad dressing recipes proliferated during the early decades of the 20th century. in fact? entire books were devoted to salads at that time. we examined several books and found several recipes for mayonnaise tarragon anchovy dressings onion dressings. given the noteriety of green goddess, it seems surprising to find recipes named such first surfacing in the late 1930s early 1940s. sometimes they are called "green dressing." "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1931] "green goddess salad dressing one cup mayonnaise, garlic, 1 tablespoon french dressing, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chives chopped fine, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 4 fillets of anchoves.   la casa pico tea room"    fashions in foods in beverly hills, compiled by the book section beverly hills womans club [beverly hills], 3rd edition 1931 (p. 26) [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; "both leaf and head lettuces were commonly grown in colonial and early american times. lettuce was highly perishable and was available only locally in season. however, lettuce became more readily availble in the twentieth century with the development of crisphead lettuce (iceberg is the most familiar). with sturdy leaves forming a compact, round head, these lettuces can be transported over long distances without damage. distributed by railroad from california and arizona, lettuce becmae an important year round food in america. during the 1920s and 1930s its production doubled."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 32) romaine lettuce salads made with romaine lettuce (also known as cos lettuce) were known in the united states by 1880s. romaine was used as both base and in combination with other leafy greens. our cookbooks do not specify this type of lettuce but the recipes below do. of course, this is not a definate indicator that romaine was enjoyed by all classes of people in all parts of the country. we can presume romaine was appreciated by the wealthy based on its appearance on a menu served at the harvard club's dinner in 1895 (nyt, february 22, 1895, p. 3). note: this romaine and lettuce salad was served in the classic european fashion, towards the end of the meal, just before the dessert course. [1877] "salad a la romaine. freshen two heads of lettuce in plenty of cold water. when about to serve mix in a bowl three tablespoonfuls of oil, one of lemon juice, one third of a small onion grated, inch of cayenne, white pepper and salt to taste, and a small pinch of powdered sugar: break the lettuce into the bowl; well mix, turn into the salatiere, garnish with hard boiled eggs, and serve."    "receipts for the table," new york times, january 28, 1877 (p. 9) [note: this recipe does not specify the type of lettuce to be used. "heads" imply standard usa lettuce, not the more leafy romaine.] [1886] "there is another kind [of lettuce], high in favor in paris and in some localities in this country for its tenderness and delicate flavor, but not liked by marketmen, because it will not bear rough handling. the time will come, however, when there will be such a demand for this species that all first class provision dealers will keep it. the french call it romaine, and in this country it is sometimes called roman lettuce. it does not head. the leaves are strng and not handsome whole; but one who uses the lettuce never wishes for any other."    miss parloa's new cook book, a guide to marketing and cooking, maria parloa [estes and lauriat::boston ma] 1886 (p. 52) arugula & rocket arugula (aka rocket) is an "old world" cruciferous plant. the leaves have been used for centuries in salads. they have a tangy, mustardy flavor, which makes the salad interesting in flavor and texture. americans "discovered" this tasty green in the 1990s. "the rocket is a eurasian plant with spicily hot tasting dandelion shaped leaves that are used in salads. it has become much more widely known in britain following the salad revolution of the late twentieth century. the name rocket comes via french roquette from italian ruchetta, a diminutive form of ruca, which in turn comes from latin eurca. this meant literally caterpillar', and was applied to the plant because of its hairy stems. it may have been derived from er, hedgehog'."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 284) "rocket, eruca sativa, a plant which grows wild in asia and the mediterranean region, has been introduced elsewhere, including n. america (where it is known by its italian name, arugula), and cultivated for use as a salad plant. its flavour, akin to that of horseradish or some sorts of cress, is strong in mature leaves, so these are added to salads with discretion. young leaves may be used freely. their popularity as a smart ingredient in western restaurants may obscure then fact that they are grown and liked in some places, e.g. the north of sudan...in classical rome the plant was cultivated both for its leaves and for its seeds, used as a flavouring. the seeds can also be used to produce and oil."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 667) "arugula also known as "rocket" and "garden rocket," this native of europe and western asia...is a cruciferous plant that has long provided tender, slightly bitter, mustard flavoured greens for the salad bowls of southern europeans and italian americans. lately, it has become widely available in the united states, where it has been naturalized. its leaves resemble those of the radish, which is a close relative. the seeds of arugula are also eaten, and they yield an oil that is used for culinary puroses, as a lubricant, and in medicines."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenlas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1722) "rocket, salad vegetable, one of the best native mediterranean species. rocket was grown in classical greek kitchen gardens and was equally familiar to romans. apart from the use of the leaf, rocket seed is called for as a culinary spice in apicus. rocket had an enduring reputation among aphrodesiacs...because of this reputation rocket was often served at dinners mixed with lettuce, an antaphrodesiac, so that their qualities would conteract one another."    food in the ancient world from a to z, andrew dalby [routledge:london] 2003 (p. 282) arugula & rocket in the usa based on the number of print newspaper references per decade "arugula" gained marked interest in the 1990s and became popular in the 2000s. the plant was known, but not particularly favored, from colonial times forward. presumably, this accounts for the dearth of references & recipes. [1911] "rocket: a rather coarse garden plant whose young leaves are occasionally used as a pot herb or for salads. the flowers resemble orange blossoms in odor."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [national grocer:new york] 1911 (p. 532) [1919] "b. vulgaris...rocket. winter cress. yellow rocket. europe and temperate asia. this herb of northern climates have been cultivated in england for a long time and as an early salad and also in scotland, where the bitter leaves are eaten by some. in early times, rocket was held in some repute but is now banished from cultivation yet appears in gardens as a weed...rocket is included in the list of american garden esculents by mcmahon in 1806. in 1832, bridgeman says winter cress is used as a salad in spring and autumn and by some boiled as a spinage."    sturtevant's notes onf edible plants, edited by u.p. hedrick, report of the new york agricultural experiment station for the year 1919 ii [j.b. lyon company:albany ny] 1919 (p. 82) [138] "roquette. this is a salad vegetable resembling cress in taste. it is served as a salad in the same manner, and is very popular with the creoles."    the original picayune creole cook book, 9th edition [times picayune publishing co.:new orleans la] 1938 227) [1960] "it would seem almost impossible that the most appealing and relatively abundant salad green could be available in new york and yet be relatively unknown. but there is one, and it leads to the suspicion that there may be more. the one in question has more names than joseph's coat has colors. the fact of the matter is that this green with the pungent and fascinatinf flavor goes by different names from one market to the next. ask italian green grocers for arugula, rucola or ruccoli; ask other markets for rouquette, rocket salad or, simply, rocket...most italian chefs know...that arugula or rocket...is the secret ingredient in many of their salads about town. considering the public unawareness of the plant, it has an astonishing availability...new york does not have a corner on the vegetable's availability in the united states. rocket salad is tremendously popular in the creole country of louisiana."    "food news: a green by any name," craig claiborne, new york times may 24, 1960 (p. 33) chickory salad green, cooked vegetable, and (when times are tough) coffee substitue. "chicory. semantic problems abound with chicory (cichorium intybus)  also called succory, radicchio, and red chicory), endive...and escarole, which is the broad leafed variety of endive. all three are members of the dandelion family, but there the resemblance ends. cichoirum endivia, native to india, was the ancestor of endive and known to the egyptians as well as to the ancient greeks and romans. by contrast, c. indybus is native to europe, but the names nonetheless remain confused. in the united states, chicory is generally called belgian edive, although this is also referred to simply as endive. the french, too, call it endive...and radicchio is chicory's italian name...chicory as well as endive roots are ground to become a natural coffee substitute...or in addition to regular coffee for added flavor and reduced caffeine. however, the tight hearts of belgian endive and radicchio are also attractive and slightly bitter ingredients in salads; in addition, their braised leaves can be a vegetable dish in their own right."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge unviersity press:cambridge] volume two, 2001 (p. 1753) "chicory...decribes a group of perennial cultivated plants developed from wild chicory, a common plant of europe, w. asia, and africa...chicory was used as a vegetable and for salad in classical greece and rome, but was not apparently cultivated. the leaves of the wild plant are not too bitter if gathered young. from the 16th century onwards modern cultivated forms, with larger and less bitter leaves, were developed...the practice of taking up chicory plants in the autumn, cutting off their leaves, and replanting the roots in a dark cellar so that they regrow small, white leaves originated in france. the original french variety called, like the wild plant, barbe de capucin is unusual in that the roots are replanted on their sides in angled banks and the shoots grow horizontally. around 1850 a belgian grower, experimenting with uses for old musroom compost, discovered the superior cigar shaped form witloof...the large rooted variety of chicory which is used as a coffee substitute was developed in holland during the second half of the 18th century, when coffee was newly fashionable and very expensive. all over europe people experimented with substitutes: grains, figs, acorns, and all kinds of root, especially dandelion and chicory. chicory was judged the most acceptable."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 167 8) "chicory can be served raw in salads  with vinaigrette and often with hard boiled (hard cooked) eggs and any of the various ingredients used in winter salads, including beetroot (red beets), apples, nuts, cheese and orange or grapefruit quarters. for cooked dishes, chicory heads are braised and drained; they can then be coated with bechamel sauce, sprinkled with noisette butter, served with gravy or with plain butter and herbs topped with grated cheesse and browned, or made into a puree. they can be served as an accompaniement to roasts and poultry. they can also be braised, made into a chiffanade or prepared as fritters (espsecially when served with fish). as a main dish, chicory is braised rolled in slices of ham and coated with a port and raisin sauce, or stuffed (with a fatty or lean stuffing) and browned on top."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 278) "chicory. american nomenclature is very confusing for this salad green called cichorium intybus, with its curly leaves and bright blue flowers...chicory is quite bitter and is often mixed with other salad greens. the same plant's roots are dried and ground into a granular powder, often referred to as "succory," that resembles coffee and is used as an additive to or substitute for real coffee in creole and cajun cooking, a legacy of the french influence on these cuisines...adding chicory to coffee began in new orleans during the food scarce civil war."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 73 4) lamb's lettuce (mache, cornsalad) "lamb's lettuce is a small plant of the genus valerianella with soft long roundish leaves eaten raw in salads. it has been known in britain for many centuries (john gerard mentions it in his herbal, 1597), but it was only in the 1980s, whith an increasing interest in exploring a wider range of salad leaves, that it started to become widely available commercially (the french, who call it mache, have always known its worth). the origins of its name, which may be a translation of latin latuca agnina, are not known for certain, but it presumably reflects a supposed partiality of lambs for the leaves. an alternative name, used particuarly for the wild variety, is corn salad, an allusion to the plant's commonly grown in corn fields."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 184) ""cornsalad," so named because these plants with small, bluish flowers grow in cornfields, actully refers to any of several plants of the genus valerianella...these european natives  found throughout north america as well  provide slightly bitter tasting leaves that are much appreciated in salads. the various types of cornsalad were considered weeds until the seventeenth century, when they began to be cultivated, and cultivation doubtless accounts for the different varieties now identified... common names and synonyms: european cornsalads, fat hen, field salad, hog salad, lamb's lettuce, lamb's quarter, mache...marsh salad."    world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2001, volume two (p. 1763) "lamb's lettuce. a plant with rounded leaves in a rosette form, which is usually eaten raw in a salad. it is also known...in france, as mache, doucette, valerianelle potagere, raiponce, and oreielle de lievre. it grows wild in fields, usually in autumn, but is cultivated in france from september to march and gives a good flavour to a winter salad. there are several varieties..."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 668) caesar salad simple, elegant, inexpensive, and famous. what more could a chef ask for? american cookbooks confirm chefs were serving artfully cut lettuce coated in french dressing in fancy restaurants from the late 19th century forwards. what makes caesar salad different? a memorable origination story (or two or three) and documented hollywood flair. "and now we come to it  the most talked of salad of a decade, perhaps of the century. like all recipes that have become widely known, several chefs and restaurateurs have claimed to have originated the salad. actually many of them have had a hand in promoting it, though not necessarily as a caesar. as for its origin, the best guess seems to be that the whole thing started in tia juana, during prohibition, but whether it was actually created by one named 'caesar,' or just named for him, is a matter of considerable discussion. the salad is at its best when kept simple, but as it is invariably made at table, and sometimes by show offs, it occasionally contains far too many ingredients."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile reprint [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308) classic theory of origin: "caesar salad. a salad of romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese, worcestershire sauce, and, often, anchovies. it was created by caesar cardini, an italian immigrant who opened a series of restaurants in tijuana, mexico...on fourth of july weekend in 1924 at caesar's palace, cardini concocted the salad as a main course, arranging the lettuce leaves on a plate with the intention that they would be eaten with their fingers. later cardini shredded the leaves into bite sized pieces. the salad became particularly popular with hollywood movie people who visited tijuana, and it became a featured dish at chasen's and romanoff's in los angeles."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 50 51) [note: most sources cite the restaurant as cesar's (or caesar's) place.] "it was an accident! but now caesar salad is tossed in handsome salad bowls, coast to coast and on purpose! a well known restaurateur, caesar cardini, concocted this zesty salad some 35 years ago at tijuana, mexico. here is the true story, told to us by his daughter rosa. one holiday weekend a throng of tourists descended on caesar's place. a few crates of romaine, half a case of eggs, a wheel of italian cheese, some lemons, and dry bread that was all the food left by sunday morning. what to do for the hungry crowd at dinner? caesar thought he'd have to close shop for the remainder of the holiday. instead he decided to invent a new salad form the ingredients he had on hand. he got out the eggs, the lemons, the parmesan cheese, the bread, and the big bottle of olive oil to which he previously had added garlic. with the romaine lettuce as the only greens, he experimented with a little of this and that in the dressing. finally, to bind the dressing ingredients together, he came up with the idea of coddling the eggs for a minute, then tossing them with the salad. (yes, that's right the original caesar salad was not made with completely raw eggs.) the loaves of bread he cut in tiny cubes and slowly oven toasted them to add to his salad at the very end. (the anchovies, now a familiar ingredient in caesar salad, didn't become part of the recipe until some 10 years later.) while the waiters kibitzed, caesar demonstrated his creation. 'take everything to each table,' he instructed, 'and make a ceremony of fixing the salad. plenty of fanfare. let guests think they're having the specialty of the house.' and the guests did! so rapidly did the news of this remarkable salad spread, that diners flocked to caesar's place just to learn the recipe. soon west coast restaurants adopted it; then it appeared on the finest menus in every state. caesar cardini's reward? in paris at the 1951 meeting of the international society of epicures, his salad was acclaimed the greatest recipe contribution of the united states in 50 years. but it was really at tijuana, mexico that the now world famous caesar salad was born. you'll find many variations of caesar salad, but here rosa cardini, who operates the food specialty shop her father started in los angeles and who bottles the original caesar salad dressing, share his authentic recipe and salad know how."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) story 2: "it has been fairly well established that the late caesar cardini created the caesar salad at hist restaurant in tijuana, mexico. or did he? the latest word is that an italian woman named beatriz santini composed the salad in austria in 1918. hard put for food in a country impovershed by war, she soft boiled eggs, which were plentiful, and added them to a bowl of romaine lettuce. a little parmesan cheese, a dressing of wine vinegar and olive oil, and the creation was complete. cardini never met santini. so how did he come up with the same idea? he didn't, we are told. the link was santini's son, livio, who emigrated to tijuana. livio santini got a job with cardini, who had opened a bar and restaurant on second street about 1924. one day, a hungry santini mixed up a bit of his mother's salad. a wealthy customer from la jolla invaded the kitchen as santini was crunching romaine, and she asked for a taste. it pleased her so that she ordered a serving from cardini, who came out to find what santini was eating. one week later, the salad was on the menu, ceremoniously mixed at table side by a captain and busboy. thus, the start of the cardini legend. the teller of this tale was no tale spinner. it was livio santini himself. now 78, santini was a guest of honor at tijuana's recent first caesar salad celebration."   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) story 3: "sr. alex cardini, of cardini's restaurant in mexico city, affirms that he invented the original caesar salad in 1926, naming it after his brother."    a world of vegetable cookery, alex d. hawkes [simon and schuster:new york] 1968 (p. 138) the anchovy debate: food historians agree anchovies were not part of the original recipe. these salty fillets infiltrate in the 1930s. "cardini was adamant in insisting that the salad be subtly flavored and argued against the inclusion of anchovies, whose faint flavor in his creation he believed may have come from the worcestershire sauce. he also decreed that only italian olive oil and imported parmesan cheese be used."    encyclopedia of american food and drink (p. 51) "according to santini...his mother used no anchovies, no lime or lemon juice and no croutons in her salad...the controversial anchovy, acknowledged by either beatriz santini nor caesar cardini, wound up on several salads.".   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) "the shocking truth is that while a proper caesar always has anchovy, an authentic one never does. in its original form, caesar salad was more a culinary tourist trap than a great american food standard, famous for the tableside show that came with the salad, not the anchovy. yet it is the anchovy that most caesar aficionados consider vital; only caesar wimps ask for their salad sans the small fry. so where did the anchovy come from?...the most common theory involves worcestershire sauce. the thinking is that someone, somewhere along the way...ran out of worcestershire sauce...saw anchovy on the list of ingredients and made the brilliant substitution. 'we can't figure it out,' said rosa cardini, daughter of the salad's inventor...cardini envisioned his a subtle salad, but as rosa pointed out, subtle is exactly what anchovies aren't."   "caesar! origin of the species," laurie ochoa, los angeles times, october 16, 1988 (p. l103) when did ceasar salad become popular in the usa? conventional wisdom places the invention of this salad in the mid 20s. our survey of contemporary sources suggests its was known, but not served, in southern california until a decade later. after wwii descriptions published in trendy journals (think: gourmet) sparked interest. by the mid 1950s everyone who was anyone in the usa knew what a caesar salad was. this coincides with the passing of mr. cardini. "jean harlow, mable hormand and all the stars would come to tijuana and ask for a cesar's salad, [cesar cardini] recalled...but it didn't become famous until 1937 when a screenwriter, manny wolfe, one of my regular customers, went to the house of murphy restaurant here, called for the ingredients and made the salad. the manager, di ciro, called it his salad,. but wolf took the recipe to the brown derby and chasen's and they called it caesar salad."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) "...hollywood's great delicacy, the caesar salad...the caesar salad, which mike romanoff'll let you have at a sacrifice  only 2 bucks  is glorified garlic. it's garlic with glamor he first time i heard of a 2 buck salad, i wanted to render unto caesar what was caesar's  a big loud razberry. they my beautiful wife...pointed out that it was an aristocrat of foods. like stone crabs in miami, oysters rockefeller in new orleans, lobsters in boston, cream cheese and bagels in new york. 'why do they call it caesar salad?' i kept asking. and finally i found it was invented by an italian named caesar cardini in his tijuana restaurant, called caesar's. edmund lowe tasted it there and brought it to hollywood. caeser's ex partner, peter friggerio, formerly at the colony and marguery in new york, is now the captain at henri's here where, of course, you can get a wonderful caesar salad. but confidently, the french born henri de charpentier, who's chef there and used to be at lynbrook, l. i. thinks it's a big mistake to have such a huge glamorous salad before the main course."    "dressing up garlic, early wilson, zanesville times recorder [oh], february 1, 1947 (p. 4) "los angeles revisited a few weeks ago, for the first time in two years, revealed more conclusively than almost anything else that the gastronomic highlight of the current moment is an arrangement called caesar's salad and that its consumption is constant, universal, and something to make the public prints in any fountainhead of good living like gourmet, as it has. caesar's salad, which is only infrequently encountered in restaurants in the east, but which will inevitably arrive in new york one of these fine days, is based on romaine instead of lettuce, chopped up anchovies, a liberal inclusion of heavily garlic flavored croutons, french dressing made slick by the inclusion of a couple of whole raw eggs, and the whole thing liberally showered with grated parmesan. at romanoff's, where we were taken to luncheon by gourmet's own stephen longstreet, with an assortment of local characters which included bob hope, gregory la cava, barbara stanwyck, and hedda hopper at adjacent tables, we were introduced to caesar's salad. at dave chasen's, where we dined that evening with robert hanley, the newly discovered and flourishing decorator of the county strip, we were immediately advised that caesar's salad was the thing to have. the next evening at hansen's scandia restaurant in sunset boulevard, the assembled chivalry to a man commanded caesar's salad, and subsequent skirmishes with the menus at perino's, the vine street brown derby, the garden restaurant of the town house, and other ranking restaurants of the city of angeles evolved the conviction that caesar's salad is as much of a part of the hollywood pattern as swimming pools or the new look."    "along the boulevards," lucius beebe, gourmet, june 1948, [no recipe] accessed online who was cesar cardini? an italian immigrant who wound up in tijuana. obviously savvy, mr. cardini operated a successful restaurant offering trendy cuisine to america's glamoros hollywood stars. he left tijuana in 1935 because mexican regulations against gambling were crushing his business. mr. cardini eventually settled in los angles, running an imported foods store. he cashed in on his claim to fame by selling his dressing. he passed away at the age of 60 in 1956. "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he has lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted. he was born in lago maggiore, italy, worked many european hotels and came to the united states when he was 20. for a time, before going to tijuana, he owned a restaurant in sacramento...he leaves his widow camille, a daughter rosa...two sisters [living in italy] and two brothers, alex and caudencio, who are in the restaurant business in mexico city."    "cesar cardini, creator of salad, dies at 60," los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31) "discouraged by failure of the mexican government to lift the ban on border gambling, caesar cardini has closed his gay tijuana café forever."    "resort owner quits forever," reno evening gazette, july 1, 1936 (p. 2) "caesar now runs an italian grocery store on la ciegna boulevard, movietown's restaurant row. he's regaining his claim to the salad fame by manufacturing his caesar salad dressing in a tiny kitchen behind his store."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) vintage recipes several publications claim they have "the original" recipe. all of them are slightly different. our gastronomic guess says the simpler the recipe, the closer to the original. and? most definatley no anchovies! most probably worcestershire. there are no caesar salad (or approximations) recipes in these trendy southern california publications: corona club cook book [1925], ebell society cook book [1926] or fashions of foods in beverly hills [1931]. the oldest print recipe food historians have identified (based on ingredients & method) was published in sunset (magazine) march, 1945. curiously? it's called "romaine salad." no reference to caesar. the casual reader could easily miss the connection. the caesar dressing appears in the the brown derby cookbook/cobb [1949] but not the salad. we hypothosize this omission may be at testament to the salad's "star power." enjoying a caesar salad was a glamorous public event, complete with live tableside show. sunset cook book/annabel post [1960] mentions the march 1945 recipe but prints the 1957 version (with anchovies, p. 19). [1945] "down in coronado. california, there's a restaurant called la avenida cafe which is known as the 'home of the romaine salad.' small wonder, for the salad which is their specialite de la maison is a dish to tempt the epicure. here's the recipe as given us by s. jack clapp, who is la avenida's authority on such matters. romaine salad 3 or 4 heads chilled, crisp romaine 2 handfuls crisp croutons (little cubes of fried bread) 6 tablespoons garlic oil 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 6 heaping tablespoons greated parmesan type cheese 1 egg juice of 3 lemons break the romaine in to a salad bowl; add croutons, oil, seasonings, and cheese. break the raw egg over the salad, ten pour the lemon juice over the egg. toss all together lightly from the bottom, and serve. serves 6. regarding the ingredients, mr. clapp has this to say: romaine: purchase pale green heads. remove outer leaves, wash thoroughly, shake dry, and chill in refrigerator. garlic oil: chop or mash a clove of garlic and place in bottom of a pint jar. fill jar with any salad oil keep at kitchen temperature, and use as needed. use the oil only; don't add the garlic to the salad. olive oil: in the case of this particular salad, best results are obtained if only a part (4 tablespoons) of the oil used is olive oil. black pepper: if possible, grind it yourself with a pepper mill. use plenty. parmesan type cheese: ideally, this should be freshly grated. egg: the raw egg acts as a binder and causes the dressing to be evenly distributed through the salad. the flavor of the egg is not detectable in the finished salad. with the salad, mr. clapp suggests serving garlic toast. to make it, split french rolls, brush the cut surface with garlic oil, sprinkle with parmesan type cheese and paprika, and heat in the oven."    "a salad to remember," sunset, march 1945 (p. 27) [1947] "1701. caesar salad prepare 2 cups of fried croutons (no. 203) in garlic flavored olive oil. place in wooden salad bowl rubbed with garlic, 2 medium sized heads crisp chilled romain, leaves separated and broken. sprinkle over it 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 4 oz., grated parmesan or crumbled blue cheese. add 6 tablespoons pure olive oil and juice of 2 medium sized lemons. break 2 raw eggs over salad, toss and mix gently, until trace of eggs has disappeared and the leaves have absorbed all liquid. taste for seasoning. just before serving, add the fried croutons, mixing and tossing salad again, being careful croutons do not become soggy. make at table just before serving."    the gold cook book, luis p. degouy [gallahad books:new york] 1947 (p. 815) [1950] ceasar salad from the pump room of the ambassador hotel, chicago 1 coddled egg 2 cloves garlic 1/8 teaspoon bahama mustard 1 tablespoon parmesan cheese 3/4 cup croutons 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 whole anchovies 2 heads romaine cut croutons out of sliced bread 1/2" square. roast same in oven, brown crisp under broiler. take two heads of romaine and wash thoroughly. cut same crosswise about 1/2" wide. place in wooden bowl. choose another bowl for your dressing. in this bowl break up garlic with fork and rub sides of bowl with it. add black pepper, pinch of salt, worcestershire sauce, mustard, lemon juice and mix thoroughly. then, after adding olive oil, mix thoroughly again. add cut up anchovies. mix coddled eggs to greens in wooden bowl. add salad dressing from second bowl and toss slightly. add croutons and half the amount of cheese and toss again, lightly. place on salad plate and sprinkle with remaining cheese."    love and fishes, niccolo de quattrochiocchi [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1950 (p. 365 366) [note: this book is chock full of celebrity recipes.] [1952] "[caesar cardinis original recipe] romaine lettuce, a one minute egg, garlic croutons, parmesan or romano cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, whole pepper, pear vinegar and olive oil."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) [note: preparation/method notes are not offered.] [1952] "caesar salad crush a clove of garlic and add it to ¾ of a cup of olive oil. let stand overnight. brown 2 cups of croutons, made from stale sourdough french bread, in ¼ cup of this garlic oil, stirring them carefully so that they will color on all sides. drain on paper toweling. (or, if you prefer, merely toast the bread cubes brown in a slow oven.) now break 2 large or 3 small heads of romaine into a large bowl, grind on a good generous amount of fresh black pepper and add ½ teaspoon of salt, then dress with ½ cup of the garlic oil. turn the salad until every leaf is glossy with oil, then break 2 eggs, cooked one minute, plunk into the middle of the salad. now, before the mixing is resumed, squeeze the guide of a big fat lemon directly over the egg (if the lemon is small, use 1 ½ or even 2 of them!), and mix so that there is a thick creamy look to the lettuce. if you wish to include fillets of anchovies, and many say you must, here is where they are added 6 to 8, snipped into bits. now taste it, and don't hesitate to use your fingers. more salt? more lemon? add them, or vinegar if you wish, plenty of experts do so. (and others insist on a slug of worcestershire!) the seasoning is now as you want it, so a good ½ cup (at least) of grated parmesan is tossed in, the salad mixed some more, and finally the croutons are added, and the salad served at once so they won't become limp and soggy. like any salad of this kind, the artists adds (or subtracts) as he goes along, so caesar salad, as you make it, is all your own! serves a dozen, more or less. 1 clove garlic 2/4 cup olive oil 2 cups croutons 2 3 heads romaine ½ teaspoon salt pepper 2 eggs juice of a large lemon 6 8 fillets of anchovies (optional) ½ cup grated parmesan."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile 1952 edition [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308 309) [1956] "caesar salad 1 large head iceberg lettuce 1 large head romaine 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt dash of fresh ground pepper 1 raw egg 1/4 cup garlic wine vinegar 2 cups croutons sprinkle prepared greens with cheese. combine 1/4 cup salad oil with worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. toss lightly with greens until each piece is coated. break whole egg into greens, sprinkle with garlic wine vinegar, toss until all egg particles disappear. combine remaining oil and croutons, toss with salad. makes 8 servings."    "caesar salad featured by world famous restaurants," san mateo times, june 27, 1956 (p. 36) [1957] "caesar salad several chefs and restauranteurs claim to have originated this well known green salad. sunset first discovered the salad in a small coronado restaurant and first published the recipe in march 1945. no one seems to know whether it was created by, or for, a 'caesar.' this version was published in sunset in 1957. caesar salad is invariably tossed at the table, where everyone can watch the host or hostess season and mix the greens and drop in each additional ingredient. 1 clove garlic 3/4 cup olive or other salad oil 2 cups croutons 2 large heads romaine 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 2 eggs, cooked 1 monute juice of one large lemon 6 to 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese crush garlic in small bowl, pour over the oil, and let stand several hours. brown the croutons (preferably made from stale sourdough french bread) in 1/4 cup of the garlic oil, stirring often. (if you prefer, you can toast the bread cubes in a slow oven.) tear romaine into a large salad bowl, sprinkle with salt, and grind over a generous amount of pepper. pour over remaining garlic oil and toss until every leaf is glossy. break the 1 minute eggs into salad; squeeze over the lemon juice, and toss thorougly. add chopped anchovies and grated cheese, and toss again. lastly, add the croutons, toss genetly, and serve immediately. serves about 12."    the sunset cook book, annabel post, home economics editor [lane book company:menlo park ca] 1960 (p. 19) [1960] "the original caesar salad 3 medium heads romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp garlic flavored olive oil, about 1/3 cup wine vinegar, 2 to 3 tablespoons juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 1 minute coddled eggs freshly ground pepper dash worcestershire sauce grated parmesan cheese, 5 or 6 tablespoons caesar croutons, about 1 cup break romaine leaves into 2  to 3 inch widths. at last minute before serving, place romaine in chilled salad bowl drizzle the garlic oil over greens, then the vinegar. squeeze the lemon over, using a fork to help free the juice. break in the 1 minute eggs. grind a flurry of pepper over all. season with salt and a dash of worcestershire. sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese. roll toss 6 or 7 times, or until dressing is thoroughly combined and every leaf is coated. add caesar croutons; toss 2 or 2 times. serve at once on chilled dinner plates. if you like, garnish with rolled anchovies. makes 6 servings as main course. " "caesar croutons: cut each slice of bread in 5 strips one way, then across 5 times to make squares. spread out on cooky sheet; pour a little garlic flavored oil over. heat in extremely slow oven (225 degrees f.) 2 hours. the croutons should be so dry, they'd float on water! ten they'll stay crunch when tossed with the dressing and greens. sprinkle croutons with grated parmesan cheese. store in jar and refrigerate to keep crispness."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) caesar salad dressing this salad's special dressing plays center stage. there is no other option. of course? there are variations... [1949] "caesar dressing, serves 2 1 egg, coddled 1 minute 1 heaping tbs. grated parmesan cheese 4 tbsp. pastry cream 1/2 cup brown derby old fashioned french dressing place coddled egg in a mixing bowl, add cheese and pastry cream. blend well. slowly whip in french dressing. any salad mixed with this dressing should be garnished with garlic french bread croutons."    brown derby cookbook, robert h. cobb [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949(p. 69) commercial production notes when the legendary caesar salad was *invented* by mr. cardini in his tijuana eatery in the 1920s, he made the dressing from scratch. according to his obituary, mr. cardini actively promoted commercial manufacture of his famous salad dressing: "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he had lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted." source: los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31). according to the records of the u.s. patent and trademark office cardini's brand caesar salad dressing was introduced to the american public february 6, 1950: word mark cardini's goods and services (abandoned) ic 029. us 046. g & s: salad dressing and salad dressing mix. first use: 19500206. first use in commerce: 19780915 mark drawing code (1) typed drawing serial number 73426710 filing date may 19, 1983 current filing basis 1a original filing basis 1a owner (applicant) cardini, rosa sinan dba, caesar cardini foods individual united states 4020 sepulveda blvd. culver city california 90230 attorney of record r. welton whann type of mark trademark register principal live/dead indicator dead abandonment date july 5, 1984 [note: cardini's brand name dressing is still being made. the current trademark owner is t. marzetti company.] perhaps the convincing push mr. cardini needed to capitalize on his name was a reaction to another company which already started making caesar dressing in the late 1940s. the earliest print evidence we find for manufactured caesar salad dressing is this advertisment published in 1949; "milani's caesar dressing for caesar salads, 45 cents/6 oz bottle." source: chicago daily tribune, september 29, 1949 (p. 9) green goddess dressing food historians generally credit philip roemer, chef of the palace hotel in san francisco, for the creation of green goddess salad dressing. it was allegedly made in honor of george arliss, an actor starring in a play by that same name. the year is fuzzy because the play ran in the 1920s followed by a popular film version in the 1930s. our survey of historic american cookbooks confirms mayonnaise based salad dressing recipes proliferated during the early decades of the 20th century. in fact? entire books were devoted to salads at that time. we examined several books and found several recipes for mayonnaise tarragon anchovy dressings onion dressings. given the noteriety of green goddess, it seems surprising to find recipes named such first surfacing in the late 1930s early 1940s. sometimes they are called "green dressing." "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1931] "green goddess salad dressing one cup mayonnaise, garlic, 1 tablespoon french dressing, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chives chopped fine, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 4 fillets of anchoves.   la casa pico tea room"    fashions in foods in beverly hills, compiled by the book section beverly hills womans club [beverly hills], 3rd edition 1931 (p. 26) [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; [1886] "there is another kind [of lettuce], high in favor in paris and in some localities in this country for its tenderness and delicate flavor, but not liked by marketmen, because it will not bear rough handling. the time will come, however, when there will be such a demand for this species that all first class provision dealers will keep it. the french call it romaine, and in this country it is sometimes called roman lettuce. it does not head. the leaves are strng and not handsome whole; but one who uses the lettuce never wishes for any other."    miss parloa's new cook book, a guide to marketing and cooking, maria parloa [estes and lauriat::boston ma] 1886 (p. 52) arugula & rocket arugula (aka rocket) is an "old world" cruciferous plant. the leaves have been used for centuries in salads. they have a tangy, mustardy flavor, which makes the salad interesting in flavor and texture. americans "discovered" this tasty green in the 1990s. "the rocket is a eurasian plant with spicily hot tasting dandelion shaped leaves that are used in salads. it has become much more widely known in britain following the salad revolution of the late twentieth century. the name rocket comes via french roquette from italian ruchetta, a diminutive form of ruca, which in turn comes from latin eurca. this meant literally caterpillar', and was applied to the plant because of its hairy stems. it may have been derived from er, hedgehog'."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 284) "rocket, eruca sativa, a plant which grows wild in asia and the mediterranean region, has been introduced elsewhere, including n. america (where it is known by its italian name, arugula), and cultivated for use as a salad plant. its flavour, akin to that of horseradish or some sorts of cress, is strong in mature leaves, so these are added to salads with discretion. young leaves may be used freely. their popularity as a smart ingredient in western restaurants may obscure then fact that they are grown and liked in some places, e.g. the north of sudan...in classical rome the plant was cultivated both for its leaves and for its seeds, used as a flavouring. the seeds can also be used to produce and oil."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 667) "arugula also known as "rocket" and "garden rocket," this native of europe and western asia...is a cruciferous plant that has long provided tender, slightly bitter, mustard flavoured greens for the salad bowls of southern europeans and italian americans. lately, it has become widely available in the united states, where it has been naturalized. its leaves resemble those of the radish, which is a close relative. the seeds of arugula are also eaten, and they yield an oil that is used for culinary puroses, as a lubricant, and in medicines."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenlas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2000, volume two (p. 1722) "rocket, salad vegetable, one of the best native mediterranean species. rocket was grown in classical greek kitchen gardens and was equally familiar to romans. apart from the use of the leaf, rocket seed is called for as a culinary spice in apicus. rocket had an enduring reputation among aphrodesiacs...because of this reputation rocket was often served at dinners mixed with lettuce, an antaphrodesiac, so that their qualities would conteract one another."    food in the ancient world from a to z, andrew dalby [routledge:london] 2003 (p. 282) arugula & rocket in the usa based on the number of print newspaper references per decade "arugula" gained marked interest in the 1990s and became popular in the 2000s. the plant was known, but not particularly favored, from colonial times forward. presumably, this accounts for the dearth of references & recipes. [1911] "rocket: a rather coarse garden plant whose young leaves are occasionally used as a pot herb or for salads. the flowers resemble orange blossoms in odor."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [national grocer:new york] 1911 (p. 532) [1919] "b. vulgaris...rocket. winter cress. yellow rocket. europe and temperate asia. this herb of northern climates have been cultivated in england for a long time and as an early salad and also in scotland, where the bitter leaves are eaten by some. in early times, rocket was held in some repute but is now banished from cultivation yet appears in gardens as a weed...rocket is included in the list of american garden esculents by mcmahon in 1806. in 1832, bridgeman says winter cress is used as a salad in spring and autumn and by some boiled as a spinage."    sturtevant's notes onf edible plants, edited by u.p. hedrick, report of the new york agricultural experiment station for the year 1919 ii [j.b. lyon company:albany ny] 1919 (p. 82) [138] "roquette. this is a salad vegetable resembling cress in taste. it is served as a salad in the same manner, and is very popular with the creoles."    the original picayune creole cook book, 9th edition [times picayune publishing co.:new orleans la] 1938 227) [1960] "it would seem almost impossible that the most appealing and relatively abundant salad green could be available in new york and yet be relatively unknown. but there is one, and it leads to the suspicion that there may be more. the one in question has more names than joseph's coat has colors. the fact of the matter is that this green with the pungent and fascinatinf flavor goes by different names from one market to the next. ask italian green grocers for arugula, rucola or ruccoli; ask other markets for rouquette, rocket salad or, simply, rocket...most italian chefs know...that arugula or rocket...is the secret ingredient in many of their salads about town. considering the public unawareness of the plant, it has an astonishing availability...new york does not have a corner on the vegetable's availability in the united states. rocket salad is tremendously popular in the creole country of louisiana."    "food news: a green by any name," craig claiborne, new york times may 24, 1960 (p. 33) chickory salad green, cooked vegetable, and (when times are tough) coffee substitue. "chicory. semantic problems abound with chicory (cichorium intybus)  also called succory, radicchio, and red chicory), endive...and escarole, which is the broad leafed variety of endive. all three are members of the dandelion family, but there the resemblance ends. cichoirum endivia, native to india, was the ancestor of endive and known to the egyptians as well as to the ancient greeks and romans. by contrast, c. indybus is native to europe, but the names nonetheless remain confused. in the united states, chicory is generally called belgian edive, although this is also referred to simply as endive. the french, too, call it endive...and radicchio is chicory's italian name...chicory as well as endive roots are ground to become a natural coffee substitute...or in addition to regular coffee for added flavor and reduced caffeine. however, the tight hearts of belgian endive and radicchio are also attractive and slightly bitter ingredients in salads; in addition, their braised leaves can be a vegetable dish in their own right."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge unviersity press:cambridge] volume two, 2001 (p. 1753) "chicory...decribes a group of perennial cultivated plants developed from wild chicory, a common plant of europe, w. asia, and africa...chicory was used as a vegetable and for salad in classical greece and rome, but was not apparently cultivated. the leaves of the wild plant are not too bitter if gathered young. from the 16th century onwards modern cultivated forms, with larger and less bitter leaves, were developed...the practice of taking up chicory plants in the autumn, cutting off their leaves, and replanting the roots in a dark cellar so that they regrow small, white leaves originated in france. the original french variety called, like the wild plant, barbe de capucin is unusual in that the roots are replanted on their sides in angled banks and the shoots grow horizontally. around 1850 a belgian grower, experimenting with uses for old musroom compost, discovered the superior cigar shaped form witloof...the large rooted variety of chicory which is used as a coffee substitute was developed in holland during the second half of the 18th century, when coffee was newly fashionable and very expensive. all over europe people experimented with substitutes: grains, figs, acorns, and all kinds of root, especially dandelion and chicory. chicory was judged the most acceptable."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 167 8) "chicory can be served raw in salads  with vinaigrette and often with hard boiled (hard cooked) eggs and any of the various ingredients used in winter salads, including beetroot (red beets), apples, nuts, cheese and orange or grapefruit quarters. for cooked dishes, chicory heads are braised and drained; they can then be coated with bechamel sauce, sprinkled with noisette butter, served with gravy or with plain butter and herbs topped with grated cheesse and browned, or made into a puree. they can be served as an accompaniement to roasts and poultry. they can also be braised, made into a chiffanade or prepared as fritters (espsecially when served with fish). as a main dish, chicory is braised rolled in slices of ham and coated with a port and raisin sauce, or stuffed (with a fatty or lean stuffing) and browned on top."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 278) "chicory. american nomenclature is very confusing for this salad green called cichorium intybus, with its curly leaves and bright blue flowers...chicory is quite bitter and is often mixed with other salad greens. the same plant's roots are dried and ground into a granular powder, often referred to as "succory," that resembles coffee and is used as an additive to or substitute for real coffee in creole and cajun cooking, a legacy of the french influence on these cuisines...adding chicory to coffee began in new orleans during the food scarce civil war."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 73 4) lamb's lettuce (mache, cornsalad) "lamb's lettuce is a small plant of the genus valerianella with soft long roundish leaves eaten raw in salads. it has been known in britain for many centuries (john gerard mentions it in his herbal, 1597), but it was only in the 1980s, whith an increasing interest in exploring a wider range of salad leaves, that it started to become widely available commercially (the french, who call it mache, have always known its worth). the origins of its name, which may be a translation of latin latuca agnina, are not known for certain, but it presumably reflects a supposed partiality of lambs for the leaves. an alternative name, used particuarly for the wild variety, is corn salad, an allusion to the plant's commonly grown in corn fields."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 184) ""cornsalad," so named because these plants with small, bluish flowers grow in cornfields, actully refers to any of several plants of the genus valerianella...these european natives  found throughout north america as well  provide slightly bitter tasting leaves that are much appreciated in salads. the various types of cornsalad were considered weeds until the seventeenth century, when they began to be cultivated, and cultivation doubtless accounts for the different varieties now identified... common names and synonyms: european cornsalads, fat hen, field salad, hog salad, lamb's lettuce, lamb's quarter, mache...marsh salad."    world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2001, volume two (p. 1763) "lamb's lettuce. a plant with rounded leaves in a rosette form, which is usually eaten raw in a salad. it is also known...in france, as mache, doucette, valerianelle potagere, raiponce, and oreielle de lievre. it grows wild in fields, usually in autumn, but is cultivated in france from september to march and gives a good flavour to a winter salad. there are several varieties..."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 668) caesar salad simple, elegant, inexpensive, and famous. what more could a chef ask for? american cookbooks confirm chefs were serving artfully cut lettuce coated in french dressing in fancy restaurants from the late 19th century forwards. what makes caesar salad different? a memorable origination story (or two or three) and documented hollywood flair. "and now we come to it  the most talked of salad of a decade, perhaps of the century. like all recipes that have become widely known, several chefs and restaurateurs have claimed to have originated the salad. actually many of them have had a hand in promoting it, though not necessarily as a caesar. as for its origin, the best guess seems to be that the whole thing started in tia juana, during prohibition, but whether it was actually created by one named 'caesar,' or just named for him, is a matter of considerable discussion. the salad is at its best when kept simple, but as it is invariably made at table, and sometimes by show offs, it occasionally contains far too many ingredients."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile reprint [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308) classic theory of origin: "caesar salad. a salad of romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese, worcestershire sauce, and, often, anchovies. it was created by caesar cardini, an italian immigrant who opened a series of restaurants in tijuana, mexico...on fourth of july weekend in 1924 at caesar's palace, cardini concocted the salad as a main course, arranging the lettuce leaves on a plate with the intention that they would be eaten with their fingers. later cardini shredded the leaves into bite sized pieces. the salad became particularly popular with hollywood movie people who visited tijuana, and it became a featured dish at chasen's and romanoff's in los angeles."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 50 51) [note: most sources cite the restaurant as cesar's (or caesar's) place.] "it was an accident! but now caesar salad is tossed in handsome salad bowls, coast to coast and on purpose! a well known restaurateur, caesar cardini, concocted this zesty salad some 35 years ago at tijuana, mexico. here is the true story, told to us by his daughter rosa. one holiday weekend a throng of tourists descended on caesar's place. a few crates of romaine, half a case of eggs, a wheel of italian cheese, some lemons, and dry bread that was all the food left by sunday morning. what to do for the hungry crowd at dinner? caesar thought he'd have to close shop for the remainder of the holiday. instead he decided to invent a new salad form the ingredients he had on hand. he got out the eggs, the lemons, the parmesan cheese, the bread, and the big bottle of olive oil to which he previously had added garlic. with the romaine lettuce as the only greens, he experimented with a little of this and that in the dressing. finally, to bind the dressing ingredients together, he came up with the idea of coddling the eggs for a minute, then tossing them with the salad. (yes, that's right the original caesar salad was not made with completely raw eggs.) the loaves of bread he cut in tiny cubes and slowly oven toasted them to add to his salad at the very end. (the anchovies, now a familiar ingredient in caesar salad, didn't become part of the recipe until some 10 years later.) while the waiters kibitzed, caesar demonstrated his creation. 'take everything to each table,' he instructed, 'and make a ceremony of fixing the salad. plenty of fanfare. let guests think they're having the specialty of the house.' and the guests did! so rapidly did the news of this remarkable salad spread, that diners flocked to caesar's place just to learn the recipe. soon west coast restaurants adopted it; then it appeared on the finest menus in every state. caesar cardini's reward? in paris at the 1951 meeting of the international society of epicures, his salad was acclaimed the greatest recipe contribution of the united states in 50 years. but it was really at tijuana, mexico that the now world famous caesar salad was born. you'll find many variations of caesar salad, but here rosa cardini, who operates the food specialty shop her father started in los angeles and who bottles the original caesar salad dressing, share his authentic recipe and salad know how."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) story 2: "it has been fairly well established that the late caesar cardini created the caesar salad at hist restaurant in tijuana, mexico. or did he? the latest word is that an italian woman named beatriz santini composed the salad in austria in 1918. hard put for food in a country impovershed by war, she soft boiled eggs, which were plentiful, and added them to a bowl of romaine lettuce. a little parmesan cheese, a dressing of wine vinegar and olive oil, and the creation was complete. cardini never met santini. so how did he come up with the same idea? he didn't, we are told. the link was santini's son, livio, who emigrated to tijuana. livio santini got a job with cardini, who had opened a bar and restaurant on second street about 1924. one day, a hungry santini mixed up a bit of his mother's salad. a wealthy customer from la jolla invaded the kitchen as santini was crunching romaine, and she asked for a taste. it pleased her so that she ordered a serving from cardini, who came out to find what santini was eating. one week later, the salad was on the menu, ceremoniously mixed at table side by a captain and busboy. thus, the start of the cardini legend. the teller of this tale was no tale spinner. it was livio santini himself. now 78, santini was a guest of honor at tijuana's recent first caesar salad celebration."   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) story 3: "sr. alex cardini, of cardini's restaurant in mexico city, affirms that he invented the original caesar salad in 1926, naming it after his brother."    a world of vegetable cookery, alex d. hawkes [simon and schuster:new york] 1968 (p. 138) the anchovy debate: food historians agree anchovies were not part of the original recipe. these salty fillets infiltrate in the 1930s. "cardini was adamant in insisting that the salad be subtly flavored and argued against the inclusion of anchovies, whose faint flavor in his creation he believed may have come from the worcestershire sauce. he also decreed that only italian olive oil and imported parmesan cheese be used."    encyclopedia of american food and drink (p. 51) "according to santini...his mother used no anchovies, no lime or lemon juice and no croutons in her salad...the controversial anchovy, acknowledged by either beatriz santini nor caesar cardini, wound up on several salads.".   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) "the shocking truth is that while a proper caesar always has anchovy, an authentic one never does. in its original form, caesar salad was more a culinary tourist trap than a great american food standard, famous for the tableside show that came with the salad, not the anchovy. yet it is the anchovy that most caesar aficionados consider vital; only caesar wimps ask for their salad sans the small fry. so where did the anchovy come from?...the most common theory involves worcestershire sauce. the thinking is that someone, somewhere along the way...ran out of worcestershire sauce...saw anchovy on the list of ingredients and made the brilliant substitution. 'we can't figure it out,' said rosa cardini, daughter of the salad's inventor...cardini envisioned his a subtle salad, but as rosa pointed out, subtle is exactly what anchovies aren't."   "caesar! origin of the species," laurie ochoa, los angeles times, october 16, 1988 (p. l103) when did ceasar salad become popular in the usa? conventional wisdom places the invention of this salad in the mid 20s. our survey of contemporary sources suggests its was known, but not served, in southern california until a decade later. after wwii descriptions published in trendy journals (think: gourmet) sparked interest. by the mid 1950s everyone who was anyone in the usa knew what a caesar salad was. this coincides with the passing of mr. cardini. "jean harlow, mable hormand and all the stars would come to tijuana and ask for a cesar's salad, [cesar cardini] recalled...but it didn't become famous until 1937 when a screenwriter, manny wolfe, one of my regular customers, went to the house of murphy restaurant here, called for the ingredients and made the salad. the manager, di ciro, called it his salad,. but wolf took the recipe to the brown derby and chasen's and they called it caesar salad."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) "...hollywood's great delicacy, the caesar salad...the caesar salad, which mike romanoff'll let you have at a sacrifice  only 2 bucks  is glorified garlic. it's garlic with glamor he first time i heard of a 2 buck salad, i wanted to render unto caesar what was caesar's  a big loud razberry. they my beautiful wife...pointed out that it was an aristocrat of foods. like stone crabs in miami, oysters rockefeller in new orleans, lobsters in boston, cream cheese and bagels in new york. 'why do they call it caesar salad?' i kept asking. and finally i found it was invented by an italian named caesar cardini in his tijuana restaurant, called caesar's. edmund lowe tasted it there and brought it to hollywood. caeser's ex partner, peter friggerio, formerly at the colony and marguery in new york, is now the captain at henri's here where, of course, you can get a wonderful caesar salad. but confidently, the french born henri de charpentier, who's chef there and used to be at lynbrook, l. i. thinks it's a big mistake to have such a huge glamorous salad before the main course."    "dressing up garlic, early wilson, zanesville times recorder [oh], february 1, 1947 (p. 4) "los angeles revisited a few weeks ago, for the first time in two years, revealed more conclusively than almost anything else that the gastronomic highlight of the current moment is an arrangement called caesar's salad and that its consumption is constant, universal, and something to make the public prints in any fountainhead of good living like gourmet, as it has. caesar's salad, which is only infrequently encountered in restaurants in the east, but which will inevitably arrive in new york one of these fine days, is based on romaine instead of lettuce, chopped up anchovies, a liberal inclusion of heavily garlic flavored croutons, french dressing made slick by the inclusion of a couple of whole raw eggs, and the whole thing liberally showered with grated parmesan. at romanoff's, where we were taken to luncheon by gourmet's own stephen longstreet, with an assortment of local characters which included bob hope, gregory la cava, barbara stanwyck, and hedda hopper at adjacent tables, we were introduced to caesar's salad. at dave chasen's, where we dined that evening with robert hanley, the newly discovered and flourishing decorator of the county strip, we were immediately advised that caesar's salad was the thing to have. the next evening at hansen's scandia restaurant in sunset boulevard, the assembled chivalry to a man commanded caesar's salad, and subsequent skirmishes with the menus at perino's, the vine street brown derby, the garden restaurant of the town house, and other ranking restaurants of the city of angeles evolved the conviction that caesar's salad is as much of a part of the hollywood pattern as swimming pools or the new look."    "along the boulevards," lucius beebe, gourmet, june 1948, [no recipe] accessed online who was cesar cardini? an italian immigrant who wound up in tijuana. obviously savvy, mr. cardini operated a successful restaurant offering trendy cuisine to america's glamoros hollywood stars. he left tijuana in 1935 because mexican regulations against gambling were crushing his business. mr. cardini eventually settled in los angles, running an imported foods store. he cashed in on his claim to fame by selling his dressing. he passed away at the age of 60 in 1956. "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he has lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted. he was born in lago maggiore, italy, worked many european hotels and came to the united states when he was 20. for a time, before going to tijuana, he owned a restaurant in sacramento...he leaves his widow camille, a daughter rosa...two sisters [living in italy] and two brothers, alex and caudencio, who are in the restaurant business in mexico city."    "cesar cardini, creator of salad, dies at 60," los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31) "discouraged by failure of the mexican government to lift the ban on border gambling, caesar cardini has closed his gay tijuana café forever."    "resort owner quits forever," reno evening gazette, july 1, 1936 (p. 2) "caesar now runs an italian grocery store on la ciegna boulevard, movietown's restaurant row. he's regaining his claim to the salad fame by manufacturing his caesar salad dressing in a tiny kitchen behind his store."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) vintage recipes several publications claim they have "the original" recipe. all of them are slightly different. our gastronomic guess says the simpler the recipe, the closer to the original. and? most definatley no anchovies! most probably worcestershire. there are no caesar salad (or approximations) recipes in these trendy southern california publications: corona club cook book [1925], ebell society cook book [1926] or fashions of foods in beverly hills [1931]. the oldest print recipe food historians have identified (based on ingredients & method) was published in sunset (magazine) march, 1945. curiously? it's called "romaine salad." no reference to caesar. the casual reader could easily miss the connection. the caesar dressing appears in the the brown derby cookbook/cobb [1949] but not the salad. we hypothosize this omission may be at testament to the salad's "star power." enjoying a caesar salad was a glamorous public event, complete with live tableside show. sunset cook book/annabel post [1960] mentions the march 1945 recipe but prints the 1957 version (with anchovies, p. 19). [1945] "down in coronado. california, there's a restaurant called la avenida cafe which is known as the 'home of the romaine salad.' small wonder, for the salad which is their specialite de la maison is a dish to tempt the epicure. here's the recipe as given us by s. jack clapp, who is la avenida's authority on such matters. romaine salad 3 or 4 heads chilled, crisp romaine 2 handfuls crisp croutons (little cubes of fried bread) 6 tablespoons garlic oil 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 6 heaping tablespoons greated parmesan type cheese 1 egg juice of 3 lemons break the romaine in to a salad bowl; add croutons, oil, seasonings, and cheese. break the raw egg over the salad, ten pour the lemon juice over the egg. toss all together lightly from the bottom, and serve. serves 6. regarding the ingredients, mr. clapp has this to say: romaine: purchase pale green heads. remove outer leaves, wash thoroughly, shake dry, and chill in refrigerator. garlic oil: chop or mash a clove of garlic and place in bottom of a pint jar. fill jar with any salad oil keep at kitchen temperature, and use as needed. use the oil only; don't add the garlic to the salad. olive oil: in the case of this particular salad, best results are obtained if only a part (4 tablespoons) of the oil used is olive oil. black pepper: if possible, grind it yourself with a pepper mill. use plenty. parmesan type cheese: ideally, this should be freshly grated. egg: the raw egg acts as a binder and causes the dressing to be evenly distributed through the salad. the flavor of the egg is not detectable in the finished salad. with the salad, mr. clapp suggests serving garlic toast. to make it, split french rolls, brush the cut surface with garlic oil, sprinkle with parmesan type cheese and paprika, and heat in the oven."    "a salad to remember," sunset, march 1945 (p. 27) [1947] "1701. caesar salad prepare 2 cups of fried croutons (no. 203) in garlic flavored olive oil. place in wooden salad bowl rubbed with garlic, 2 medium sized heads crisp chilled romain, leaves separated and broken. sprinkle over it 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 4 oz., grated parmesan or crumbled blue cheese. add 6 tablespoons pure olive oil and juice of 2 medium sized lemons. break 2 raw eggs over salad, toss and mix gently, until trace of eggs has disappeared and the leaves have absorbed all liquid. taste for seasoning. just before serving, add the fried croutons, mixing and tossing salad again, being careful croutons do not become soggy. make at table just before serving."    the gold cook book, luis p. degouy [gallahad books:new york] 1947 (p. 815) [1950] ceasar salad from the pump room of the ambassador hotel, chicago 1 coddled egg 2 cloves garlic 1/8 teaspoon bahama mustard 1 tablespoon parmesan cheese 3/4 cup croutons 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 whole anchovies 2 heads romaine cut croutons out of sliced bread 1/2" square. roast same in oven, brown crisp under broiler. take two heads of romaine and wash thoroughly. cut same crosswise about 1/2" wide. place in wooden bowl. choose another bowl for your dressing. in this bowl break up garlic with fork and rub sides of bowl with it. add black pepper, pinch of salt, worcestershire sauce, mustard, lemon juice and mix thoroughly. then, after adding olive oil, mix thoroughly again. add cut up anchovies. mix coddled eggs to greens in wooden bowl. add salad dressing from second bowl and toss slightly. add croutons and half the amount of cheese and toss again, lightly. place on salad plate and sprinkle with remaining cheese."    love and fishes, niccolo de quattrochiocchi [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1950 (p. 365 366) [note: this book is chock full of celebrity recipes.] [1952] "[caesar cardinis original recipe] romaine lettuce, a one minute egg, garlic croutons, parmesan or romano cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, whole pepper, pear vinegar and olive oil."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) [note: preparation/method notes are not offered.] [1952] "caesar salad crush a clove of garlic and add it to ¾ of a cup of olive oil. let stand overnight. brown 2 cups of croutons, made from stale sourdough french bread, in ¼ cup of this garlic oil, stirring them carefully so that they will color on all sides. drain on paper toweling. (or, if you prefer, merely toast the bread cubes brown in a slow oven.) now break 2 large or 3 small heads of romaine into a large bowl, grind on a good generous amount of fresh black pepper and add ½ teaspoon of salt, then dress with ½ cup of the garlic oil. turn the salad until every leaf is glossy with oil, then break 2 eggs, cooked one minute, plunk into the middle of the salad. now, before the mixing is resumed, squeeze the guide of a big fat lemon directly over the egg (if the lemon is small, use 1 ½ or even 2 of them!), and mix so that there is a thick creamy look to the lettuce. if you wish to include fillets of anchovies, and many say you must, here is where they are added 6 to 8, snipped into bits. now taste it, and don't hesitate to use your fingers. more salt? more lemon? add them, or vinegar if you wish, plenty of experts do so. (and others insist on a slug of worcestershire!) the seasoning is now as you want it, so a good ½ cup (at least) of grated parmesan is tossed in, the salad mixed some more, and finally the croutons are added, and the salad served at once so they won't become limp and soggy. like any salad of this kind, the artists adds (or subtracts) as he goes along, so caesar salad, as you make it, is all your own! serves a dozen, more or less. 1 clove garlic 2/4 cup olive oil 2 cups croutons 2 3 heads romaine ½ teaspoon salt pepper 2 eggs juice of a large lemon 6 8 fillets of anchovies (optional) ½ cup grated parmesan."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile 1952 edition [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308 309) [1956] "caesar salad 1 large head iceberg lettuce 1 large head romaine 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt dash of fresh ground pepper 1 raw egg 1/4 cup garlic wine vinegar 2 cups croutons sprinkle prepared greens with cheese. combine 1/4 cup salad oil with worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. toss lightly with greens until each piece is coated. break whole egg into greens, sprinkle with garlic wine vinegar, toss until all egg particles disappear. combine remaining oil and croutons, toss with salad. makes 8 servings."    "caesar salad featured by world famous restaurants," san mateo times, june 27, 1956 (p. 36) [1957] "caesar salad several chefs and restauranteurs claim to have originated this well known green salad. sunset first discovered the salad in a small coronado restaurant and first published the recipe in march 1945. no one seems to know whether it was created by, or for, a 'caesar.' this version was published in sunset in 1957. caesar salad is invariably tossed at the table, where everyone can watch the host or hostess season and mix the greens and drop in each additional ingredient. 1 clove garlic 3/4 cup olive or other salad oil 2 cups croutons 2 large heads romaine 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 2 eggs, cooked 1 monute juice of one large lemon 6 to 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese crush garlic in small bowl, pour over the oil, and let stand several hours. brown the croutons (preferably made from stale sourdough french bread) in 1/4 cup of the garlic oil, stirring often. (if you prefer, you can toast the bread cubes in a slow oven.) tear romaine into a large salad bowl, sprinkle with salt, and grind over a generous amount of pepper. pour over remaining garlic oil and toss until every leaf is glossy. break the 1 minute eggs into salad; squeeze over the lemon juice, and toss thorougly. add chopped anchovies and grated cheese, and toss again. lastly, add the croutons, toss genetly, and serve immediately. serves about 12."    the sunset cook book, annabel post, home economics editor [lane book company:menlo park ca] 1960 (p. 19) [1960] "the original caesar salad 3 medium heads romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp garlic flavored olive oil, about 1/3 cup wine vinegar, 2 to 3 tablespoons juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 1 minute coddled eggs freshly ground pepper dash worcestershire sauce grated parmesan cheese, 5 or 6 tablespoons caesar croutons, about 1 cup break romaine leaves into 2  to 3 inch widths. at last minute before serving, place romaine in chilled salad bowl drizzle the garlic oil over greens, then the vinegar. squeeze the lemon over, using a fork to help free the juice. break in the 1 minute eggs. grind a flurry of pepper over all. season with salt and a dash of worcestershire. sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese. roll toss 6 or 7 times, or until dressing is thoroughly combined and every leaf is coated. add caesar croutons; toss 2 or 2 times. serve at once on chilled dinner plates. if you like, garnish with rolled anchovies. makes 6 servings as main course. " "caesar croutons: cut each slice of bread in 5 strips one way, then across 5 times to make squares. spread out on cooky sheet; pour a little garlic flavored oil over. heat in extremely slow oven (225 degrees f.) 2 hours. the croutons should be so dry, they'd float on water! ten they'll stay crunch when tossed with the dressing and greens. sprinkle croutons with grated parmesan cheese. store in jar and refrigerate to keep crispness."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) caesar salad dressing this salad's special dressing plays center stage. there is no other option. of course? there are variations... [1949] "caesar dressing, serves 2 1 egg, coddled 1 minute 1 heaping tbs. grated parmesan cheese 4 tbsp. pastry cream 1/2 cup brown derby old fashioned french dressing place coddled egg in a mixing bowl, add cheese and pastry cream. blend well. slowly whip in french dressing. any salad mixed with this dressing should be garnished with garlic french bread croutons."    brown derby cookbook, robert h. cobb [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949(p. 69) commercial production notes when the legendary caesar salad was *invented* by mr. cardini in his tijuana eatery in the 1920s, he made the dressing from scratch. according to his obituary, mr. cardini actively promoted commercial manufacture of his famous salad dressing: "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he had lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted." source: los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31). according to the records of the u.s. patent and trademark office cardini's brand caesar salad dressing was introduced to the american public february 6, 1950: word mark cardini's goods and services (abandoned) ic 029. us 046. g & s: salad dressing and salad dressing mix. first use: 19500206. first use in commerce: 19780915 mark drawing code (1) typed drawing serial number 73426710 filing date may 19, 1983 current filing basis 1a original filing basis 1a owner (applicant) cardini, rosa sinan dba, caesar cardini foods individual united states 4020 sepulveda blvd. culver city california 90230 attorney of record r. welton whann type of mark trademark register principal live/dead indicator dead abandonment date july 5, 1984 [note: cardini's brand name dressing is still being made. the current trademark owner is t. marzetti company.] perhaps the convincing push mr. cardini needed to capitalize on his name was a reaction to another company which already started making caesar dressing in the late 1940s. the earliest print evidence we find for manufactured caesar salad dressing is this advertisment published in 1949; "milani's caesar dressing for caesar salads, 45 cents/6 oz bottle." source: chicago daily tribune, september 29, 1949 (p. 9) green goddess dressing food historians generally credit philip roemer, chef of the palace hotel in san francisco, for the creation of green goddess salad dressing. it was allegedly made in honor of george arliss, an actor starring in a play by that same name. the year is fuzzy because the play ran in the 1920s followed by a popular film version in the 1930s. our survey of historic american cookbooks confirms mayonnaise based salad dressing recipes proliferated during the early decades of the 20th century. in fact? entire books were devoted to salads at that time. we examined several books and found several recipes for mayonnaise tarragon anchovy dressings onion dressings. given the noteriety of green goddess, it seems surprising to find recipes named such first surfacing in the late 1930s early 1940s. sometimes they are called "green dressing." "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1931] "green goddess salad dressing one cup mayonnaise, garlic, 1 tablespoon french dressing, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chives chopped fine, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 4 fillets of anchoves.   la casa pico tea room"    fashions in foods in beverly hills, compiled by the book section beverly hills womans club [beverly hills], 3rd edition 1931 (p. 26) [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; [1911] "rocket: a rather coarse garden plant whose young leaves are occasionally used as a pot herb or for salads. the flowers resemble orange blossoms in odor."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [national grocer:new york] 1911 (p. 532) [1919] "b. vulgaris...rocket. winter cress. yellow rocket. europe and temperate asia. this herb of northern climates have been cultivated in england for a long time and as an early salad and also in scotland, where the bitter leaves are eaten by some. in early times, rocket was held in some repute but is now banished from cultivation yet appears in gardens as a weed...rocket is included in the list of american garden esculents by mcmahon in 1806. in 1832, bridgeman says winter cress is used as a salad in spring and autumn and by some boiled as a spinage."    sturtevant's notes onf edible plants, edited by u.p. hedrick, report of the new york agricultural experiment station for the year 1919 ii [j.b. lyon company:albany ny] 1919 (p. 82) [138] "roquette. this is a salad vegetable resembling cress in taste. it is served as a salad in the same manner, and is very popular with the creoles."    the original picayune creole cook book, 9th edition [times picayune publishing co.:new orleans la] 1938 227) [1960] "it would seem almost impossible that the most appealing and relatively abundant salad green could be available in new york and yet be relatively unknown. but there is one, and it leads to the suspicion that there may be more. the one in question has more names than joseph's coat has colors. the fact of the matter is that this green with the pungent and fascinatinf flavor goes by different names from one market to the next. ask italian green grocers for arugula, rucola or ruccoli; ask other markets for rouquette, rocket salad or, simply, rocket...most italian chefs know...that arugula or rocket...is the secret ingredient in many of their salads about town. considering the public unawareness of the plant, it has an astonishing availability...new york does not have a corner on the vegetable's availability in the united states. rocket salad is tremendously popular in the creole country of louisiana."    "food news: a green by any name," craig claiborne, new york times may 24, 1960 (p. 33) chickory salad green, cooked vegetable, and (when times are tough) coffee substitue. "chicory. semantic problems abound with chicory (cichorium intybus)  also called succory, radicchio, and red chicory), endive...and escarole, which is the broad leafed variety of endive. all three are members of the dandelion family, but there the resemblance ends. cichoirum endivia, native to india, was the ancestor of endive and known to the egyptians as well as to the ancient greeks and romans. by contrast, c. indybus is native to europe, but the names nonetheless remain confused. in the united states, chicory is generally called belgian edive, although this is also referred to simply as endive. the french, too, call it endive...and radicchio is chicory's italian name...chicory as well as endive roots are ground to become a natural coffee substitute...or in addition to regular coffee for added flavor and reduced caffeine. however, the tight hearts of belgian endive and radicchio are also attractive and slightly bitter ingredients in salads; in addition, their braised leaves can be a vegetable dish in their own right."    cambridge world history of food, kenneth f. kiple and kriemhild conee ornelas [cambridge unviersity press:cambridge] volume two, 2001 (p. 1753) "chicory...decribes a group of perennial cultivated plants developed from wild chicory, a common plant of europe, w. asia, and africa...chicory was used as a vegetable and for salad in classical greece and rome, but was not apparently cultivated. the leaves of the wild plant are not too bitter if gathered young. from the 16th century onwards modern cultivated forms, with larger and less bitter leaves, were developed...the practice of taking up chicory plants in the autumn, cutting off their leaves, and replanting the roots in a dark cellar so that they regrow small, white leaves originated in france. the original french variety called, like the wild plant, barbe de capucin is unusual in that the roots are replanted on their sides in angled banks and the shoots grow horizontally. around 1850 a belgian grower, experimenting with uses for old musroom compost, discovered the superior cigar shaped form witloof...the large rooted variety of chicory which is used as a coffee substitute was developed in holland during the second half of the 18th century, when coffee was newly fashionable and very expensive. all over europe people experimented with substitutes: grains, figs, acorns, and all kinds of root, especially dandelion and chicory. chicory was judged the most acceptable."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 167 8) "chicory can be served raw in salads  with vinaigrette and often with hard boiled (hard cooked) eggs and any of the various ingredients used in winter salads, including beetroot (red beets), apples, nuts, cheese and orange or grapefruit quarters. for cooked dishes, chicory heads are braised and drained; they can then be coated with bechamel sauce, sprinkled with noisette butter, served with gravy or with plain butter and herbs topped with grated cheesse and browned, or made into a puree. they can be served as an accompaniement to roasts and poultry. they can also be braised, made into a chiffanade or prepared as fritters (espsecially when served with fish). as a main dish, chicory is braised rolled in slices of ham and coated with a port and raisin sauce, or stuffed (with a fatty or lean stuffing) and browned on top."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 278) "chicory. american nomenclature is very confusing for this salad green called cichorium intybus, with its curly leaves and bright blue flowers...chicory is quite bitter and is often mixed with other salad greens. the same plant's roots are dried and ground into a granular powder, often referred to as "succory," that resembles coffee and is used as an additive to or substitute for real coffee in creole and cajun cooking, a legacy of the french influence on these cuisines...adding chicory to coffee began in new orleans during the food scarce civil war."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 73 4) lamb's lettuce (mache, cornsalad) "lamb's lettuce is a small plant of the genus valerianella with soft long roundish leaves eaten raw in salads. it has been known in britain for many centuries (john gerard mentions it in his herbal, 1597), but it was only in the 1980s, whith an increasing interest in exploring a wider range of salad leaves, that it started to become widely available commercially (the french, who call it mache, have always known its worth). the origins of its name, which may be a translation of latin latuca agnina, are not known for certain, but it presumably reflects a supposed partiality of lambs for the leaves. an alternative name, used particuarly for the wild variety, is corn salad, an allusion to the plant's commonly grown in corn fields."    an a z of food & drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 184) ""cornsalad," so named because these plants with small, bluish flowers grow in cornfields, actully refers to any of several plants of the genus valerianella...these european natives  found throughout north america as well  provide slightly bitter tasting leaves that are much appreciated in salads. the various types of cornsalad were considered weeds until the seventeenth century, when they began to be cultivated, and cultivation doubtless accounts for the different varieties now identified... common names and synonyms: european cornsalads, fat hen, field salad, hog salad, lamb's lettuce, lamb's quarter, mache...marsh salad."    world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2001, volume two (p. 1763) "lamb's lettuce. a plant with rounded leaves in a rosette form, which is usually eaten raw in a salad. it is also known...in france, as mache, doucette, valerianelle potagere, raiponce, and oreielle de lievre. it grows wild in fields, usually in autumn, but is cultivated in france from september to march and gives a good flavour to a winter salad. there are several varieties..."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 668) caesar salad simple, elegant, inexpensive, and famous. what more could a chef ask for? american cookbooks confirm chefs were serving artfully cut lettuce coated in french dressing in fancy restaurants from the late 19th century forwards. what makes caesar salad different? a memorable origination story (or two or three) and documented hollywood flair. "and now we come to it  the most talked of salad of a decade, perhaps of the century. like all recipes that have become widely known, several chefs and restaurateurs have claimed to have originated the salad. actually many of them have had a hand in promoting it, though not necessarily as a caesar. as for its origin, the best guess seems to be that the whole thing started in tia juana, during prohibition, but whether it was actually created by one named 'caesar,' or just named for him, is a matter of considerable discussion. the salad is at its best when kept simple, but as it is invariably made at table, and sometimes by show offs, it occasionally contains far too many ingredients."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile reprint [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308) classic theory of origin: "caesar salad. a salad of romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese, worcestershire sauce, and, often, anchovies. it was created by caesar cardini, an italian immigrant who opened a series of restaurants in tijuana, mexico...on fourth of july weekend in 1924 at caesar's palace, cardini concocted the salad as a main course, arranging the lettuce leaves on a plate with the intention that they would be eaten with their fingers. later cardini shredded the leaves into bite sized pieces. the salad became particularly popular with hollywood movie people who visited tijuana, and it became a featured dish at chasen's and romanoff's in los angeles."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 50 51) [note: most sources cite the restaurant as cesar's (or caesar's) place.] "it was an accident! but now caesar salad is tossed in handsome salad bowls, coast to coast and on purpose! a well known restaurateur, caesar cardini, concocted this zesty salad some 35 years ago at tijuana, mexico. here is the true story, told to us by his daughter rosa. one holiday weekend a throng of tourists descended on caesar's place. a few crates of romaine, half a case of eggs, a wheel of italian cheese, some lemons, and dry bread that was all the food left by sunday morning. what to do for the hungry crowd at dinner? caesar thought he'd have to close shop for the remainder of the holiday. instead he decided to invent a new salad form the ingredients he had on hand. he got out the eggs, the lemons, the parmesan cheese, the bread, and the big bottle of olive oil to which he previously had added garlic. with the romaine lettuce as the only greens, he experimented with a little of this and that in the dressing. finally, to bind the dressing ingredients together, he came up with the idea of coddling the eggs for a minute, then tossing them with the salad. (yes, that's right the original caesar salad was not made with completely raw eggs.) the loaves of bread he cut in tiny cubes and slowly oven toasted them to add to his salad at the very end. (the anchovies, now a familiar ingredient in caesar salad, didn't become part of the recipe until some 10 years later.) while the waiters kibitzed, caesar demonstrated his creation. 'take everything to each table,' he instructed, 'and make a ceremony of fixing the salad. plenty of fanfare. let guests think they're having the specialty of the house.' and the guests did! so rapidly did the news of this remarkable salad spread, that diners flocked to caesar's place just to learn the recipe. soon west coast restaurants adopted it; then it appeared on the finest menus in every state. caesar cardini's reward? in paris at the 1951 meeting of the international society of epicures, his salad was acclaimed the greatest recipe contribution of the united states in 50 years. but it was really at tijuana, mexico that the now world famous caesar salad was born. you'll find many variations of caesar salad, but here rosa cardini, who operates the food specialty shop her father started in los angeles and who bottles the original caesar salad dressing, share his authentic recipe and salad know how."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) story 2: "it has been fairly well established that the late caesar cardini created the caesar salad at hist restaurant in tijuana, mexico. or did he? the latest word is that an italian woman named beatriz santini composed the salad in austria in 1918. hard put for food in a country impovershed by war, she soft boiled eggs, which were plentiful, and added them to a bowl of romaine lettuce. a little parmesan cheese, a dressing of wine vinegar and olive oil, and the creation was complete. cardini never met santini. so how did he come up with the same idea? he didn't, we are told. the link was santini's son, livio, who emigrated to tijuana. livio santini got a job with cardini, who had opened a bar and restaurant on second street about 1924. one day, a hungry santini mixed up a bit of his mother's salad. a wealthy customer from la jolla invaded the kitchen as santini was crunching romaine, and she asked for a taste. it pleased her so that she ordered a serving from cardini, who came out to find what santini was eating. one week later, the salad was on the menu, ceremoniously mixed at table side by a captain and busboy. thus, the start of the cardini legend. the teller of this tale was no tale spinner. it was livio santini himself. now 78, santini was a guest of honor at tijuana's recent first caesar salad celebration."   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) story 3: "sr. alex cardini, of cardini's restaurant in mexico city, affirms that he invented the original caesar salad in 1926, naming it after his brother."    a world of vegetable cookery, alex d. hawkes [simon and schuster:new york] 1968 (p. 138) the anchovy debate: food historians agree anchovies were not part of the original recipe. these salty fillets infiltrate in the 1930s. "cardini was adamant in insisting that the salad be subtly flavored and argued against the inclusion of anchovies, whose faint flavor in his creation he believed may have come from the worcestershire sauce. he also decreed that only italian olive oil and imported parmesan cheese be used."    encyclopedia of american food and drink (p. 51) "according to santini...his mother used no anchovies, no lime or lemon juice and no croutons in her salad...the controversial anchovy, acknowledged by either beatriz santini nor caesar cardini, wound up on several salads.".   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) "the shocking truth is that while a proper caesar always has anchovy, an authentic one never does. in its original form, caesar salad was more a culinary tourist trap than a great american food standard, famous for the tableside show that came with the salad, not the anchovy. yet it is the anchovy that most caesar aficionados consider vital; only caesar wimps ask for their salad sans the small fry. so where did the anchovy come from?...the most common theory involves worcestershire sauce. the thinking is that someone, somewhere along the way...ran out of worcestershire sauce...saw anchovy on the list of ingredients and made the brilliant substitution. 'we can't figure it out,' said rosa cardini, daughter of the salad's inventor...cardini envisioned his a subtle salad, but as rosa pointed out, subtle is exactly what anchovies aren't."   "caesar! origin of the species," laurie ochoa, los angeles times, october 16, 1988 (p. l103) when did ceasar salad become popular in the usa? conventional wisdom places the invention of this salad in the mid 20s. our survey of contemporary sources suggests its was known, but not served, in southern california until a decade later. after wwii descriptions published in trendy journals (think: gourmet) sparked interest. by the mid 1950s everyone who was anyone in the usa knew what a caesar salad was. this coincides with the passing of mr. cardini. "jean harlow, mable hormand and all the stars would come to tijuana and ask for a cesar's salad, [cesar cardini] recalled...but it didn't become famous until 1937 when a screenwriter, manny wolfe, one of my regular customers, went to the house of murphy restaurant here, called for the ingredients and made the salad. the manager, di ciro, called it his salad,. but wolf took the recipe to the brown derby and chasen's and they called it caesar salad."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) "...hollywood's great delicacy, the caesar salad...the caesar salad, which mike romanoff'll let you have at a sacrifice  only 2 bucks  is glorified garlic. it's garlic with glamor he first time i heard of a 2 buck salad, i wanted to render unto caesar what was caesar's  a big loud razberry. they my beautiful wife...pointed out that it was an aristocrat of foods. like stone crabs in miami, oysters rockefeller in new orleans, lobsters in boston, cream cheese and bagels in new york. 'why do they call it caesar salad?' i kept asking. and finally i found it was invented by an italian named caesar cardini in his tijuana restaurant, called caesar's. edmund lowe tasted it there and brought it to hollywood. caeser's ex partner, peter friggerio, formerly at the colony and marguery in new york, is now the captain at henri's here where, of course, you can get a wonderful caesar salad. but confidently, the french born henri de charpentier, who's chef there and used to be at lynbrook, l. i. thinks it's a big mistake to have such a huge glamorous salad before the main course."    "dressing up garlic, early wilson, zanesville times recorder [oh], february 1, 1947 (p. 4) "los angeles revisited a few weeks ago, for the first time in two years, revealed more conclusively than almost anything else that the gastronomic highlight of the current moment is an arrangement called caesar's salad and that its consumption is constant, universal, and something to make the public prints in any fountainhead of good living like gourmet, as it has. caesar's salad, which is only infrequently encountered in restaurants in the east, but which will inevitably arrive in new york one of these fine days, is based on romaine instead of lettuce, chopped up anchovies, a liberal inclusion of heavily garlic flavored croutons, french dressing made slick by the inclusion of a couple of whole raw eggs, and the whole thing liberally showered with grated parmesan. at romanoff's, where we were taken to luncheon by gourmet's own stephen longstreet, with an assortment of local characters which included bob hope, gregory la cava, barbara stanwyck, and hedda hopper at adjacent tables, we were introduced to caesar's salad. at dave chasen's, where we dined that evening with robert hanley, the newly discovered and flourishing decorator of the county strip, we were immediately advised that caesar's salad was the thing to have. the next evening at hansen's scandia restaurant in sunset boulevard, the assembled chivalry to a man commanded caesar's salad, and subsequent skirmishes with the menus at perino's, the vine street brown derby, the garden restaurant of the town house, and other ranking restaurants of the city of angeles evolved the conviction that caesar's salad is as much of a part of the hollywood pattern as swimming pools or the new look."    "along the boulevards," lucius beebe, gourmet, june 1948, [no recipe] accessed online who was cesar cardini? an italian immigrant who wound up in tijuana. obviously savvy, mr. cardini operated a successful restaurant offering trendy cuisine to america's glamoros hollywood stars. he left tijuana in 1935 because mexican regulations against gambling were crushing his business. mr. cardini eventually settled in los angles, running an imported foods store. he cashed in on his claim to fame by selling his dressing. he passed away at the age of 60 in 1956. "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he has lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted. he was born in lago maggiore, italy, worked many european hotels and came to the united states when he was 20. for a time, before going to tijuana, he owned a restaurant in sacramento...he leaves his widow camille, a daughter rosa...two sisters [living in italy] and two brothers, alex and caudencio, who are in the restaurant business in mexico city."    "cesar cardini, creator of salad, dies at 60," los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31) "discouraged by failure of the mexican government to lift the ban on border gambling, caesar cardini has closed his gay tijuana café forever."    "resort owner quits forever," reno evening gazette, july 1, 1936 (p. 2) "caesar now runs an italian grocery store on la ciegna boulevard, movietown's restaurant row. he's regaining his claim to the salad fame by manufacturing his caesar salad dressing in a tiny kitchen behind his store."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) vintage recipes several publications claim they have "the original" recipe. all of them are slightly different. our gastronomic guess says the simpler the recipe, the closer to the original. and? most definatley no anchovies! most probably worcestershire. there are no caesar salad (or approximations) recipes in these trendy southern california publications: corona club cook book [1925], ebell society cook book [1926] or fashions of foods in beverly hills [1931]. the oldest print recipe food historians have identified (based on ingredients & method) was published in sunset (magazine) march, 1945. curiously? it's called "romaine salad." no reference to caesar. the casual reader could easily miss the connection. the caesar dressing appears in the the brown derby cookbook/cobb [1949] but not the salad. we hypothosize this omission may be at testament to the salad's "star power." enjoying a caesar salad was a glamorous public event, complete with live tableside show. sunset cook book/annabel post [1960] mentions the march 1945 recipe but prints the 1957 version (with anchovies, p. 19). [1945] "down in coronado. california, there's a restaurant called la avenida cafe which is known as the 'home of the romaine salad.' small wonder, for the salad which is their specialite de la maison is a dish to tempt the epicure. here's the recipe as given us by s. jack clapp, who is la avenida's authority on such matters. romaine salad 3 or 4 heads chilled, crisp romaine 2 handfuls crisp croutons (little cubes of fried bread) 6 tablespoons garlic oil 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 6 heaping tablespoons greated parmesan type cheese 1 egg juice of 3 lemons break the romaine in to a salad bowl; add croutons, oil, seasonings, and cheese. break the raw egg over the salad, ten pour the lemon juice over the egg. toss all together lightly from the bottom, and serve. serves 6. regarding the ingredients, mr. clapp has this to say: romaine: purchase pale green heads. remove outer leaves, wash thoroughly, shake dry, and chill in refrigerator. garlic oil: chop or mash a clove of garlic and place in bottom of a pint jar. fill jar with any salad oil keep at kitchen temperature, and use as needed. use the oil only; don't add the garlic to the salad. olive oil: in the case of this particular salad, best results are obtained if only a part (4 tablespoons) of the oil used is olive oil. black pepper: if possible, grind it yourself with a pepper mill. use plenty. parmesan type cheese: ideally, this should be freshly grated. egg: the raw egg acts as a binder and causes the dressing to be evenly distributed through the salad. the flavor of the egg is not detectable in the finished salad. with the salad, mr. clapp suggests serving garlic toast. to make it, split french rolls, brush the cut surface with garlic oil, sprinkle with parmesan type cheese and paprika, and heat in the oven."    "a salad to remember," sunset, march 1945 (p. 27) [1947] "1701. caesar salad prepare 2 cups of fried croutons (no. 203) in garlic flavored olive oil. place in wooden salad bowl rubbed with garlic, 2 medium sized heads crisp chilled romain, leaves separated and broken. sprinkle over it 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 4 oz., grated parmesan or crumbled blue cheese. add 6 tablespoons pure olive oil and juice of 2 medium sized lemons. break 2 raw eggs over salad, toss and mix gently, until trace of eggs has disappeared and the leaves have absorbed all liquid. taste for seasoning. just before serving, add the fried croutons, mixing and tossing salad again, being careful croutons do not become soggy. make at table just before serving."    the gold cook book, luis p. degouy [gallahad books:new york] 1947 (p. 815) [1950] ceasar salad from the pump room of the ambassador hotel, chicago 1 coddled egg 2 cloves garlic 1/8 teaspoon bahama mustard 1 tablespoon parmesan cheese 3/4 cup croutons 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 whole anchovies 2 heads romaine cut croutons out of sliced bread 1/2" square. roast same in oven, brown crisp under broiler. take two heads of romaine and wash thoroughly. cut same crosswise about 1/2" wide. place in wooden bowl. choose another bowl for your dressing. in this bowl break up garlic with fork and rub sides of bowl with it. add black pepper, pinch of salt, worcestershire sauce, mustard, lemon juice and mix thoroughly. then, after adding olive oil, mix thoroughly again. add cut up anchovies. mix coddled eggs to greens in wooden bowl. add salad dressing from second bowl and toss slightly. add croutons and half the amount of cheese and toss again, lightly. place on salad plate and sprinkle with remaining cheese."    love and fishes, niccolo de quattrochiocchi [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1950 (p. 365 366) [note: this book is chock full of celebrity recipes.] [1952] "[caesar cardinis original recipe] romaine lettuce, a one minute egg, garlic croutons, parmesan or romano cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, whole pepper, pear vinegar and olive oil."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) [note: preparation/method notes are not offered.] [1952] "caesar salad crush a clove of garlic and add it to ¾ of a cup of olive oil. let stand overnight. brown 2 cups of croutons, made from stale sourdough french bread, in ¼ cup of this garlic oil, stirring them carefully so that they will color on all sides. drain on paper toweling. (or, if you prefer, merely toast the bread cubes brown in a slow oven.) now break 2 large or 3 small heads of romaine into a large bowl, grind on a good generous amount of fresh black pepper and add ½ teaspoon of salt, then dress with ½ cup of the garlic oil. turn the salad until every leaf is glossy with oil, then break 2 eggs, cooked one minute, plunk into the middle of the salad. now, before the mixing is resumed, squeeze the guide of a big fat lemon directly over the egg (if the lemon is small, use 1 ½ or even 2 of them!), and mix so that there is a thick creamy look to the lettuce. if you wish to include fillets of anchovies, and many say you must, here is where they are added 6 to 8, snipped into bits. now taste it, and don't hesitate to use your fingers. more salt? more lemon? add them, or vinegar if you wish, plenty of experts do so. (and others insist on a slug of worcestershire!) the seasoning is now as you want it, so a good ½ cup (at least) of grated parmesan is tossed in, the salad mixed some more, and finally the croutons are added, and the salad served at once so they won't become limp and soggy. like any salad of this kind, the artists adds (or subtracts) as he goes along, so caesar salad, as you make it, is all your own! serves a dozen, more or less. 1 clove garlic 2/4 cup olive oil 2 cups croutons 2 3 heads romaine ½ teaspoon salt pepper 2 eggs juice of a large lemon 6 8 fillets of anchovies (optional) ½ cup grated parmesan."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile 1952 edition [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308 309) [1956] "caesar salad 1 large head iceberg lettuce 1 large head romaine 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt dash of fresh ground pepper 1 raw egg 1/4 cup garlic wine vinegar 2 cups croutons sprinkle prepared greens with cheese. combine 1/4 cup salad oil with worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. toss lightly with greens until each piece is coated. break whole egg into greens, sprinkle with garlic wine vinegar, toss until all egg particles disappear. combine remaining oil and croutons, toss with salad. makes 8 servings."    "caesar salad featured by world famous restaurants," san mateo times, june 27, 1956 (p. 36) [1957] "caesar salad several chefs and restauranteurs claim to have originated this well known green salad. sunset first discovered the salad in a small coronado restaurant and first published the recipe in march 1945. no one seems to know whether it was created by, or for, a 'caesar.' this version was published in sunset in 1957. caesar salad is invariably tossed at the table, where everyone can watch the host or hostess season and mix the greens and drop in each additional ingredient. 1 clove garlic 3/4 cup olive or other salad oil 2 cups croutons 2 large heads romaine 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 2 eggs, cooked 1 monute juice of one large lemon 6 to 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese crush garlic in small bowl, pour over the oil, and let stand several hours. brown the croutons (preferably made from stale sourdough french bread) in 1/4 cup of the garlic oil, stirring often. (if you prefer, you can toast the bread cubes in a slow oven.) tear romaine into a large salad bowl, sprinkle with salt, and grind over a generous amount of pepper. pour over remaining garlic oil and toss until every leaf is glossy. break the 1 minute eggs into salad; squeeze over the lemon juice, and toss thorougly. add chopped anchovies and grated cheese, and toss again. lastly, add the croutons, toss genetly, and serve immediately. serves about 12."    the sunset cook book, annabel post, home economics editor [lane book company:menlo park ca] 1960 (p. 19) [1960] "the original caesar salad 3 medium heads romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp garlic flavored olive oil, about 1/3 cup wine vinegar, 2 to 3 tablespoons juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 1 minute coddled eggs freshly ground pepper dash worcestershire sauce grated parmesan cheese, 5 or 6 tablespoons caesar croutons, about 1 cup break romaine leaves into 2  to 3 inch widths. at last minute before serving, place romaine in chilled salad bowl drizzle the garlic oil over greens, then the vinegar. squeeze the lemon over, using a fork to help free the juice. break in the 1 minute eggs. grind a flurry of pepper over all. season with salt and a dash of worcestershire. sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese. roll toss 6 or 7 times, or until dressing is thoroughly combined and every leaf is coated. add caesar croutons; toss 2 or 2 times. serve at once on chilled dinner plates. if you like, garnish with rolled anchovies. makes 6 servings as main course. " "caesar croutons: cut each slice of bread in 5 strips one way, then across 5 times to make squares. spread out on cooky sheet; pour a little garlic flavored oil over. heat in extremely slow oven (225 degrees f.) 2 hours. the croutons should be so dry, they'd float on water! ten they'll stay crunch when tossed with the dressing and greens. sprinkle croutons with grated parmesan cheese. store in jar and refrigerate to keep crispness."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) caesar salad dressing this salad's special dressing plays center stage. there is no other option. of course? there are variations... [1949] "caesar dressing, serves 2 1 egg, coddled 1 minute 1 heaping tbs. grated parmesan cheese 4 tbsp. pastry cream 1/2 cup brown derby old fashioned french dressing place coddled egg in a mixing bowl, add cheese and pastry cream. blend well. slowly whip in french dressing. any salad mixed with this dressing should be garnished with garlic french bread croutons."    brown derby cookbook, robert h. cobb [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949(p. 69) commercial production notes when the legendary caesar salad was *invented* by mr. cardini in his tijuana eatery in the 1920s, he made the dressing from scratch. according to his obituary, mr. cardini actively promoted commercial manufacture of his famous salad dressing: "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he had lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted." source: los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31). according to the records of the u.s. patent and trademark office cardini's brand caesar salad dressing was introduced to the american public february 6, 1950: word mark cardini's goods and services (abandoned) ic 029. us 046. g & s: salad dressing and salad dressing mix. first use: 19500206. first use in commerce: 19780915 mark drawing code (1) typed drawing serial number 73426710 filing date may 19, 1983 current filing basis 1a original filing basis 1a owner (applicant) cardini, rosa sinan dba, caesar cardini foods individual united states 4020 sepulveda blvd. culver city california 90230 attorney of record r. welton whann type of mark trademark register principal live/dead indicator dead abandonment date july 5, 1984 [note: cardini's brand name dressing is still being made. the current trademark owner is t. marzetti company.] perhaps the convincing push mr. cardini needed to capitalize on his name was a reaction to another company which already started making caesar dressing in the late 1940s. the earliest print evidence we find for manufactured caesar salad dressing is this advertisment published in 1949; "milani's caesar dressing for caesar salads, 45 cents/6 oz bottle." source: chicago daily tribune, september 29, 1949 (p. 9) green goddess dressing food historians generally credit philip roemer, chef of the palace hotel in san francisco, for the creation of green goddess salad dressing. it was allegedly made in honor of george arliss, an actor starring in a play by that same name. the year is fuzzy because the play ran in the 1920s followed by a popular film version in the 1930s. our survey of historic american cookbooks confirms mayonnaise based salad dressing recipes proliferated during the early decades of the 20th century. in fact? entire books were devoted to salads at that time. we examined several books and found several recipes for mayonnaise tarragon anchovy dressings onion dressings. given the noteriety of green goddess, it seems surprising to find recipes named such first surfacing in the late 1930s early 1940s. sometimes they are called "green dressing." "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1931] "green goddess salad dressing one cup mayonnaise, garlic, 1 tablespoon french dressing, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chives chopped fine, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 4 fillets of anchoves.   la casa pico tea room"    fashions in foods in beverly hills, compiled by the book section beverly hills womans club [beverly hills], 3rd edition 1931 (p. 26) [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; ""cornsalad," so named because these plants with small, bluish flowers grow in cornfields, actully refers to any of several plants of the genus valerianella...these european natives  found throughout north america as well  provide slightly bitter tasting leaves that are much appreciated in salads. the various types of cornsalad were considered weeds until the seventeenth century, when they began to be cultivated, and cultivation doubtless accounts for the different varieties now identified... common names and synonyms: european cornsalads, fat hen, field salad, hog salad, lamb's lettuce, lamb's quarter, mache...marsh salad."    world history of food, kenneth f. kiple & kriemhild conee orenelas [cambridge university press:cambridge] 2001, volume two (p. 1763) "lamb's lettuce. a plant with rounded leaves in a rosette form, which is usually eaten raw in a salad. it is also known...in france, as mache, doucette, valerianelle potagere, raiponce, and oreielle de lievre. it grows wild in fields, usually in autumn, but is cultivated in france from september to march and gives a good flavour to a winter salad. there are several varieties..."    larousse gastronomique, completely revised and updated [clarkson potter:new york] 2001 (p. 668) caesar salad simple, elegant, inexpensive, and famous. what more could a chef ask for? american cookbooks confirm chefs were serving artfully cut lettuce coated in french dressing in fancy restaurants from the late 19th century forwards. what makes caesar salad different? a memorable origination story (or two or three) and documented hollywood flair. "and now we come to it  the most talked of salad of a decade, perhaps of the century. like all recipes that have become widely known, several chefs and restaurateurs have claimed to have originated the salad. actually many of them have had a hand in promoting it, though not necessarily as a caesar. as for its origin, the best guess seems to be that the whole thing started in tia juana, during prohibition, but whether it was actually created by one named 'caesar,' or just named for him, is a matter of considerable discussion. the salad is at its best when kept simple, but as it is invariably made at table, and sometimes by show offs, it occasionally contains far too many ingredients."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile reprint [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308) classic theory of origin: "caesar salad. a salad of romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese, worcestershire sauce, and, often, anchovies. it was created by caesar cardini, an italian immigrant who opened a series of restaurants in tijuana, mexico...on fourth of july weekend in 1924 at caesar's palace, cardini concocted the salad as a main course, arranging the lettuce leaves on a plate with the intention that they would be eaten with their fingers. later cardini shredded the leaves into bite sized pieces. the salad became particularly popular with hollywood movie people who visited tijuana, and it became a featured dish at chasen's and romanoff's in los angeles."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 50 51) [note: most sources cite the restaurant as cesar's (or caesar's) place.] "it was an accident! but now caesar salad is tossed in handsome salad bowls, coast to coast and on purpose! a well known restaurateur, caesar cardini, concocted this zesty salad some 35 years ago at tijuana, mexico. here is the true story, told to us by his daughter rosa. one holiday weekend a throng of tourists descended on caesar's place. a few crates of romaine, half a case of eggs, a wheel of italian cheese, some lemons, and dry bread that was all the food left by sunday morning. what to do for the hungry crowd at dinner? caesar thought he'd have to close shop for the remainder of the holiday. instead he decided to invent a new salad form the ingredients he had on hand. he got out the eggs, the lemons, the parmesan cheese, the bread, and the big bottle of olive oil to which he previously had added garlic. with the romaine lettuce as the only greens, he experimented with a little of this and that in the dressing. finally, to bind the dressing ingredients together, he came up with the idea of coddling the eggs for a minute, then tossing them with the salad. (yes, that's right the original caesar salad was not made with completely raw eggs.) the loaves of bread he cut in tiny cubes and slowly oven toasted them to add to his salad at the very end. (the anchovies, now a familiar ingredient in caesar salad, didn't become part of the recipe until some 10 years later.) while the waiters kibitzed, caesar demonstrated his creation. 'take everything to each table,' he instructed, 'and make a ceremony of fixing the salad. plenty of fanfare. let guests think they're having the specialty of the house.' and the guests did! so rapidly did the news of this remarkable salad spread, that diners flocked to caesar's place just to learn the recipe. soon west coast restaurants adopted it; then it appeared on the finest menus in every state. caesar cardini's reward? in paris at the 1951 meeting of the international society of epicures, his salad was acclaimed the greatest recipe contribution of the united states in 50 years. but it was really at tijuana, mexico that the now world famous caesar salad was born. you'll find many variations of caesar salad, but here rosa cardini, who operates the food specialty shop her father started in los angeles and who bottles the original caesar salad dressing, share his authentic recipe and salad know how."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) story 2: "it has been fairly well established that the late caesar cardini created the caesar salad at hist restaurant in tijuana, mexico. or did he? the latest word is that an italian woman named beatriz santini composed the salad in austria in 1918. hard put for food in a country impovershed by war, she soft boiled eggs, which were plentiful, and added them to a bowl of romaine lettuce. a little parmesan cheese, a dressing of wine vinegar and olive oil, and the creation was complete. cardini never met santini. so how did he come up with the same idea? he didn't, we are told. the link was santini's son, livio, who emigrated to tijuana. livio santini got a job with cardini, who had opened a bar and restaurant on second street about 1924. one day, a hungry santini mixed up a bit of his mother's salad. a wealthy customer from la jolla invaded the kitchen as santini was crunching romaine, and she asked for a taste. it pleased her so that she ordered a serving from cardini, who came out to find what santini was eating. one week later, the salad was on the menu, ceremoniously mixed at table side by a captain and busboy. thus, the start of the cardini legend. the teller of this tale was no tale spinner. it was livio santini himself. now 78, santini was a guest of honor at tijuana's recent first caesar salad celebration."   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) story 3: "sr. alex cardini, of cardini's restaurant in mexico city, affirms that he invented the original caesar salad in 1926, naming it after his brother."    a world of vegetable cookery, alex d. hawkes [simon and schuster:new york] 1968 (p. 138) the anchovy debate: food historians agree anchovies were not part of the original recipe. these salty fillets infiltrate in the 1930s. "cardini was adamant in insisting that the salad be subtly flavored and argued against the inclusion of anchovies, whose faint flavor in his creation he believed may have come from the worcestershire sauce. he also decreed that only italian olive oil and imported parmesan cheese be used."    encyclopedia of american food and drink (p. 51) "according to santini...his mother used no anchovies, no lime or lemon juice and no croutons in her salad...the controversial anchovy, acknowledged by either beatriz santini nor caesar cardini, wound up on several salads.".   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) "the shocking truth is that while a proper caesar always has anchovy, an authentic one never does. in its original form, caesar salad was more a culinary tourist trap than a great american food standard, famous for the tableside show that came with the salad, not the anchovy. yet it is the anchovy that most caesar aficionados consider vital; only caesar wimps ask for their salad sans the small fry. so where did the anchovy come from?...the most common theory involves worcestershire sauce. the thinking is that someone, somewhere along the way...ran out of worcestershire sauce...saw anchovy on the list of ingredients and made the brilliant substitution. 'we can't figure it out,' said rosa cardini, daughter of the salad's inventor...cardini envisioned his a subtle salad, but as rosa pointed out, subtle is exactly what anchovies aren't."   "caesar! origin of the species," laurie ochoa, los angeles times, october 16, 1988 (p. l103) when did ceasar salad become popular in the usa? conventional wisdom places the invention of this salad in the mid 20s. our survey of contemporary sources suggests its was known, but not served, in southern california until a decade later. after wwii descriptions published in trendy journals (think: gourmet) sparked interest. by the mid 1950s everyone who was anyone in the usa knew what a caesar salad was. this coincides with the passing of mr. cardini. "jean harlow, mable hormand and all the stars would come to tijuana and ask for a cesar's salad, [cesar cardini] recalled...but it didn't become famous until 1937 when a screenwriter, manny wolfe, one of my regular customers, went to the house of murphy restaurant here, called for the ingredients and made the salad. the manager, di ciro, called it his salad,. but wolf took the recipe to the brown derby and chasen's and they called it caesar salad."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) "...hollywood's great delicacy, the caesar salad...the caesar salad, which mike romanoff'll let you have at a sacrifice  only 2 bucks  is glorified garlic. it's garlic with glamor he first time i heard of a 2 buck salad, i wanted to render unto caesar what was caesar's  a big loud razberry. they my beautiful wife...pointed out that it was an aristocrat of foods. like stone crabs in miami, oysters rockefeller in new orleans, lobsters in boston, cream cheese and bagels in new york. 'why do they call it caesar salad?' i kept asking. and finally i found it was invented by an italian named caesar cardini in his tijuana restaurant, called caesar's. edmund lowe tasted it there and brought it to hollywood. caeser's ex partner, peter friggerio, formerly at the colony and marguery in new york, is now the captain at henri's here where, of course, you can get a wonderful caesar salad. but confidently, the french born henri de charpentier, who's chef there and used to be at lynbrook, l. i. thinks it's a big mistake to have such a huge glamorous salad before the main course."    "dressing up garlic, early wilson, zanesville times recorder [oh], february 1, 1947 (p. 4) "los angeles revisited a few weeks ago, for the first time in two years, revealed more conclusively than almost anything else that the gastronomic highlight of the current moment is an arrangement called caesar's salad and that its consumption is constant, universal, and something to make the public prints in any fountainhead of good living like gourmet, as it has. caesar's salad, which is only infrequently encountered in restaurants in the east, but which will inevitably arrive in new york one of these fine days, is based on romaine instead of lettuce, chopped up anchovies, a liberal inclusion of heavily garlic flavored croutons, french dressing made slick by the inclusion of a couple of whole raw eggs, and the whole thing liberally showered with grated parmesan. at romanoff's, where we were taken to luncheon by gourmet's own stephen longstreet, with an assortment of local characters which included bob hope, gregory la cava, barbara stanwyck, and hedda hopper at adjacent tables, we were introduced to caesar's salad. at dave chasen's, where we dined that evening with robert hanley, the newly discovered and flourishing decorator of the county strip, we were immediately advised that caesar's salad was the thing to have. the next evening at hansen's scandia restaurant in sunset boulevard, the assembled chivalry to a man commanded caesar's salad, and subsequent skirmishes with the menus at perino's, the vine street brown derby, the garden restaurant of the town house, and other ranking restaurants of the city of angeles evolved the conviction that caesar's salad is as much of a part of the hollywood pattern as swimming pools or the new look."    "along the boulevards," lucius beebe, gourmet, june 1948, [no recipe] accessed online who was cesar cardini? an italian immigrant who wound up in tijuana. obviously savvy, mr. cardini operated a successful restaurant offering trendy cuisine to america's glamoros hollywood stars. he left tijuana in 1935 because mexican regulations against gambling were crushing his business. mr. cardini eventually settled in los angles, running an imported foods store. he cashed in on his claim to fame by selling his dressing. he passed away at the age of 60 in 1956. "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he has lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted. he was born in lago maggiore, italy, worked many european hotels and came to the united states when he was 20. for a time, before going to tijuana, he owned a restaurant in sacramento...he leaves his widow camille, a daughter rosa...two sisters [living in italy] and two brothers, alex and caudencio, who are in the restaurant business in mexico city."    "cesar cardini, creator of salad, dies at 60," los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31) "discouraged by failure of the mexican government to lift the ban on border gambling, caesar cardini has closed his gay tijuana café forever."    "resort owner quits forever," reno evening gazette, july 1, 1936 (p. 2) "caesar now runs an italian grocery store on la ciegna boulevard, movietown's restaurant row. he's regaining his claim to the salad fame by manufacturing his caesar salad dressing in a tiny kitchen behind his store."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) vintage recipes several publications claim they have "the original" recipe. all of them are slightly different. our gastronomic guess says the simpler the recipe, the closer to the original. and? most definatley no anchovies! most probably worcestershire. there are no caesar salad (or approximations) recipes in these trendy southern california publications: corona club cook book [1925], ebell society cook book [1926] or fashions of foods in beverly hills [1931]. the oldest print recipe food historians have identified (based on ingredients & method) was published in sunset (magazine) march, 1945. curiously? it's called "romaine salad." no reference to caesar. the casual reader could easily miss the connection. the caesar dressing appears in the the brown derby cookbook/cobb [1949] but not the salad. we hypothosize this omission may be at testament to the salad's "star power." enjoying a caesar salad was a glamorous public event, complete with live tableside show. sunset cook book/annabel post [1960] mentions the march 1945 recipe but prints the 1957 version (with anchovies, p. 19). [1945] "down in coronado. california, there's a restaurant called la avenida cafe which is known as the 'home of the romaine salad.' small wonder, for the salad which is their specialite de la maison is a dish to tempt the epicure. here's the recipe as given us by s. jack clapp, who is la avenida's authority on such matters. romaine salad 3 or 4 heads chilled, crisp romaine 2 handfuls crisp croutons (little cubes of fried bread) 6 tablespoons garlic oil 4 tablespoons olive oil salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 6 heaping tablespoons greated parmesan type cheese 1 egg juice of 3 lemons break the romaine in to a salad bowl; add croutons, oil, seasonings, and cheese. break the raw egg over the salad, ten pour the lemon juice over the egg. toss all together lightly from the bottom, and serve. serves 6. regarding the ingredients, mr. clapp has this to say: romaine: purchase pale green heads. remove outer leaves, wash thoroughly, shake dry, and chill in refrigerator. garlic oil: chop or mash a clove of garlic and place in bottom of a pint jar. fill jar with any salad oil keep at kitchen temperature, and use as needed. use the oil only; don't add the garlic to the salad. olive oil: in the case of this particular salad, best results are obtained if only a part (4 tablespoons) of the oil used is olive oil. black pepper: if possible, grind it yourself with a pepper mill. use plenty. parmesan type cheese: ideally, this should be freshly grated. egg: the raw egg acts as a binder and causes the dressing to be evenly distributed through the salad. the flavor of the egg is not detectable in the finished salad. with the salad, mr. clapp suggests serving garlic toast. to make it, split french rolls, brush the cut surface with garlic oil, sprinkle with parmesan type cheese and paprika, and heat in the oven."    "a salad to remember," sunset, march 1945 (p. 27) [1947] "1701. caesar salad prepare 2 cups of fried croutons (no. 203) in garlic flavored olive oil. place in wooden salad bowl rubbed with garlic, 2 medium sized heads crisp chilled romain, leaves separated and broken. sprinkle over it 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 4 oz., grated parmesan or crumbled blue cheese. add 6 tablespoons pure olive oil and juice of 2 medium sized lemons. break 2 raw eggs over salad, toss and mix gently, until trace of eggs has disappeared and the leaves have absorbed all liquid. taste for seasoning. just before serving, add the fried croutons, mixing and tossing salad again, being careful croutons do not become soggy. make at table just before serving."    the gold cook book, luis p. degouy [gallahad books:new york] 1947 (p. 815) [1950] ceasar salad from the pump room of the ambassador hotel, chicago 1 coddled egg 2 cloves garlic 1/8 teaspoon bahama mustard 1 tablespoon parmesan cheese 3/4 cup croutons 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 whole anchovies 2 heads romaine cut croutons out of sliced bread 1/2" square. roast same in oven, brown crisp under broiler. take two heads of romaine and wash thoroughly. cut same crosswise about 1/2" wide. place in wooden bowl. choose another bowl for your dressing. in this bowl break up garlic with fork and rub sides of bowl with it. add black pepper, pinch of salt, worcestershire sauce, mustard, lemon juice and mix thoroughly. then, after adding olive oil, mix thoroughly again. add cut up anchovies. mix coddled eggs to greens in wooden bowl. add salad dressing from second bowl and toss slightly. add croutons and half the amount of cheese and toss again, lightly. place on salad plate and sprinkle with remaining cheese."    love and fishes, niccolo de quattrochiocchi [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1950 (p. 365 366) [note: this book is chock full of celebrity recipes.] [1952] "[caesar cardinis original recipe] romaine lettuce, a one minute egg, garlic croutons, parmesan or romano cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, whole pepper, pear vinegar and olive oil."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) [note: preparation/method notes are not offered.] [1952] "caesar salad crush a clove of garlic and add it to ¾ of a cup of olive oil. let stand overnight. brown 2 cups of croutons, made from stale sourdough french bread, in ¼ cup of this garlic oil, stirring them carefully so that they will color on all sides. drain on paper toweling. (or, if you prefer, merely toast the bread cubes brown in a slow oven.) now break 2 large or 3 small heads of romaine into a large bowl, grind on a good generous amount of fresh black pepper and add ½ teaspoon of salt, then dress with ½ cup of the garlic oil. turn the salad until every leaf is glossy with oil, then break 2 eggs, cooked one minute, plunk into the middle of the salad. now, before the mixing is resumed, squeeze the guide of a big fat lemon directly over the egg (if the lemon is small, use 1 ½ or even 2 of them!), and mix so that there is a thick creamy look to the lettuce. if you wish to include fillets of anchovies, and many say you must, here is where they are added 6 to 8, snipped into bits. now taste it, and don't hesitate to use your fingers. more salt? more lemon? add them, or vinegar if you wish, plenty of experts do so. (and others insist on a slug of worcestershire!) the seasoning is now as you want it, so a good ½ cup (at least) of grated parmesan is tossed in, the salad mixed some more, and finally the croutons are added, and the salad served at once so they won't become limp and soggy. like any salad of this kind, the artists adds (or subtracts) as he goes along, so caesar salad, as you make it, is all your own! serves a dozen, more or less. 1 clove garlic 2/4 cup olive oil 2 cups croutons 2 3 heads romaine ½ teaspoon salt pepper 2 eggs juice of a large lemon 6 8 fillets of anchovies (optional) ½ cup grated parmesan."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile 1952 edition [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308 309) [1956] "caesar salad 1 large head iceberg lettuce 1 large head romaine 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt dash of fresh ground pepper 1 raw egg 1/4 cup garlic wine vinegar 2 cups croutons sprinkle prepared greens with cheese. combine 1/4 cup salad oil with worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. toss lightly with greens until each piece is coated. break whole egg into greens, sprinkle with garlic wine vinegar, toss until all egg particles disappear. combine remaining oil and croutons, toss with salad. makes 8 servings."    "caesar salad featured by world famous restaurants," san mateo times, june 27, 1956 (p. 36) [1957] "caesar salad several chefs and restauranteurs claim to have originated this well known green salad. sunset first discovered the salad in a small coronado restaurant and first published the recipe in march 1945. no one seems to know whether it was created by, or for, a 'caesar.' this version was published in sunset in 1957. caesar salad is invariably tossed at the table, where everyone can watch the host or hostess season and mix the greens and drop in each additional ingredient. 1 clove garlic 3/4 cup olive or other salad oil 2 cups croutons 2 large heads romaine 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 2 eggs, cooked 1 monute juice of one large lemon 6 to 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese crush garlic in small bowl, pour over the oil, and let stand several hours. brown the croutons (preferably made from stale sourdough french bread) in 1/4 cup of the garlic oil, stirring often. (if you prefer, you can toast the bread cubes in a slow oven.) tear romaine into a large salad bowl, sprinkle with salt, and grind over a generous amount of pepper. pour over remaining garlic oil and toss until every leaf is glossy. break the 1 minute eggs into salad; squeeze over the lemon juice, and toss thorougly. add chopped anchovies and grated cheese, and toss again. lastly, add the croutons, toss genetly, and serve immediately. serves about 12."    the sunset cook book, annabel post, home economics editor [lane book company:menlo park ca] 1960 (p. 19) [1960] "the original caesar salad 3 medium heads romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp garlic flavored olive oil, about 1/3 cup wine vinegar, 2 to 3 tablespoons juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 1 minute coddled eggs freshly ground pepper dash worcestershire sauce grated parmesan cheese, 5 or 6 tablespoons caesar croutons, about 1 cup break romaine leaves into 2  to 3 inch widths. at last minute before serving, place romaine in chilled salad bowl drizzle the garlic oil over greens, then the vinegar. squeeze the lemon over, using a fork to help free the juice. break in the 1 minute eggs. grind a flurry of pepper over all. season with salt and a dash of worcestershire. sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese. roll toss 6 or 7 times, or until dressing is thoroughly combined and every leaf is coated. add caesar croutons; toss 2 or 2 times. serve at once on chilled dinner plates. if you like, garnish with rolled anchovies. makes 6 servings as main course. " "caesar croutons: cut each slice of bread in 5 strips one way, then across 5 times to make squares. spread out on cooky sheet; pour a little garlic flavored oil over. heat in extremely slow oven (225 degrees f.) 2 hours. the croutons should be so dry, they'd float on water! ten they'll stay crunch when tossed with the dressing and greens. sprinkle croutons with grated parmesan cheese. store in jar and refrigerate to keep crispness."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) caesar salad dressing this salad's special dressing plays center stage. there is no other option. of course? there are variations... [1949] "caesar dressing, serves 2 1 egg, coddled 1 minute 1 heaping tbs. grated parmesan cheese 4 tbsp. pastry cream 1/2 cup brown derby old fashioned french dressing place coddled egg in a mixing bowl, add cheese and pastry cream. blend well. slowly whip in french dressing. any salad mixed with this dressing should be garnished with garlic french bread croutons."    brown derby cookbook, robert h. cobb [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949(p. 69) commercial production notes when the legendary caesar salad was *invented* by mr. cardini in his tijuana eatery in the 1920s, he made the dressing from scratch. according to his obituary, mr. cardini actively promoted commercial manufacture of his famous salad dressing: "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he had lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted." source: los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31). according to the records of the u.s. patent and trademark office cardini's brand caesar salad dressing was introduced to the american public february 6, 1950: word mark cardini's goods and services (abandoned) ic 029. us 046. g & s: salad dressing and salad dressing mix. first use: 19500206. first use in commerce: 19780915 mark drawing code (1) typed drawing serial number 73426710 filing date may 19, 1983 current filing basis 1a original filing basis 1a owner (applicant) cardini, rosa sinan dba, caesar cardini foods individual united states 4020 sepulveda blvd. culver city california 90230 attorney of record r. welton whann type of mark trademark register principal live/dead indicator dead abandonment date july 5, 1984 [note: cardini's brand name dressing is still being made. the current trademark owner is t. marzetti company.] perhaps the convincing push mr. cardini needed to capitalize on his name was a reaction to another company which already started making caesar dressing in the late 1940s. the earliest print evidence we find for manufactured caesar salad dressing is this advertisment published in 1949; "milani's caesar dressing for caesar salads, 45 cents/6 oz bottle." source: chicago daily tribune, september 29, 1949 (p. 9) green goddess dressing food historians generally credit philip roemer, chef of the palace hotel in san francisco, for the creation of green goddess salad dressing. it was allegedly made in honor of george arliss, an actor starring in a play by that same name. the year is fuzzy because the play ran in the 1920s followed by a popular film version in the 1930s. our survey of historic american cookbooks confirms mayonnaise based salad dressing recipes proliferated during the early decades of the 20th century. in fact? entire books were devoted to salads at that time. we examined several books and found several recipes for mayonnaise tarragon anchovy dressings onion dressings. given the noteriety of green goddess, it seems surprising to find recipes named such first surfacing in the late 1930s early 1940s. sometimes they are called "green dressing." "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1931] "green goddess salad dressing one cup mayonnaise, garlic, 1 tablespoon french dressing, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chives chopped fine, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 4 fillets of anchoves.   la casa pico tea room"    fashions in foods in beverly hills, compiled by the book section beverly hills womans club [beverly hills], 3rd edition 1931 (p. 26) [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; "and now we come to it  the most talked of salad of a decade, perhaps of the century. like all recipes that have become widely known, several chefs and restaurateurs have claimed to have originated the salad. actually many of them have had a hand in promoting it, though not necessarily as a caesar. as for its origin, the best guess seems to be that the whole thing started in tia juana, during prohibition, but whether it was actually created by one named 'caesar,' or just named for him, is a matter of considerable discussion. the salad is at its best when kept simple, but as it is invariably made at table, and sometimes by show offs, it occasionally contains far too many ingredients."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile reprint [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308) classic theory of origin: "caesar salad. a salad of romaine lettuce, garlic, olive oil, croutons, parmesan cheese, worcestershire sauce, and, often, anchovies. it was created by caesar cardini, an italian immigrant who opened a series of restaurants in tijuana, mexico...on fourth of july weekend in 1924 at caesar's palace, cardini concocted the salad as a main course, arranging the lettuce leaves on a plate with the intention that they would be eaten with their fingers. later cardini shredded the leaves into bite sized pieces. the salad became particularly popular with hollywood movie people who visited tijuana, and it became a featured dish at chasen's and romanoff's in los angeles."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 50 51) [note: most sources cite the restaurant as cesar's (or caesar's) place.] "it was an accident! but now caesar salad is tossed in handsome salad bowls, coast to coast and on purpose! a well known restaurateur, caesar cardini, concocted this zesty salad some 35 years ago at tijuana, mexico. here is the true story, told to us by his daughter rosa. one holiday weekend a throng of tourists descended on caesar's place. a few crates of romaine, half a case of eggs, a wheel of italian cheese, some lemons, and dry bread that was all the food left by sunday morning. what to do for the hungry crowd at dinner? caesar thought he'd have to close shop for the remainder of the holiday. instead he decided to invent a new salad form the ingredients he had on hand. he got out the eggs, the lemons, the parmesan cheese, the bread, and the big bottle of olive oil to which he previously had added garlic. with the romaine lettuce as the only greens, he experimented with a little of this and that in the dressing. finally, to bind the dressing ingredients together, he came up with the idea of coddling the eggs for a minute, then tossing them with the salad. (yes, that's right the original caesar salad was not made with completely raw eggs.) the loaves of bread he cut in tiny cubes and slowly oven toasted them to add to his salad at the very end. (the anchovies, now a familiar ingredient in caesar salad, didn't become part of the recipe until some 10 years later.) while the waiters kibitzed, caesar demonstrated his creation. 'take everything to each table,' he instructed, 'and make a ceremony of fixing the salad. plenty of fanfare. let guests think they're having the specialty of the house.' and the guests did! so rapidly did the news of this remarkable salad spread, that diners flocked to caesar's place just to learn the recipe. soon west coast restaurants adopted it; then it appeared on the finest menus in every state. caesar cardini's reward? in paris at the 1951 meeting of the international society of epicures, his salad was acclaimed the greatest recipe contribution of the united states in 50 years. but it was really at tijuana, mexico that the now world famous caesar salad was born. you'll find many variations of caesar salad, but here rosa cardini, who operates the food specialty shop her father started in los angeles and who bottles the original caesar salad dressing, share his authentic recipe and salad know how."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) story 2: "it has been fairly well established that the late caesar cardini created the caesar salad at hist restaurant in tijuana, mexico. or did he? the latest word is that an italian woman named beatriz santini composed the salad in austria in 1918. hard put for food in a country impovershed by war, she soft boiled eggs, which were plentiful, and added them to a bowl of romaine lettuce. a little parmesan cheese, a dressing of wine vinegar and olive oil, and the creation was complete. cardini never met santini. so how did he come up with the same idea? he didn't, we are told. the link was santini's son, livio, who emigrated to tijuana. livio santini got a job with cardini, who had opened a bar and restaurant on second street about 1924. one day, a hungry santini mixed up a bit of his mother's salad. a wealthy customer from la jolla invaded the kitchen as santini was crunching romaine, and she asked for a taste. it pleased her so that she ordered a serving from cardini, who came out to find what santini was eating. one week later, the salad was on the menu, ceremoniously mixed at table side by a captain and busboy. thus, the start of the cardini legend. the teller of this tale was no tale spinner. it was livio santini himself. now 78, santini was a guest of honor at tijuana's recent first caesar salad celebration."   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) story 3: "sr. alex cardini, of cardini's restaurant in mexico city, affirms that he invented the original caesar salad in 1926, naming it after his brother."    a world of vegetable cookery, alex d. hawkes [simon and schuster:new york] 1968 (p. 138) the anchovy debate: food historians agree anchovies were not part of the original recipe. these salty fillets infiltrate in the 1930s. "cardini was adamant in insisting that the salad be subtly flavored and argued against the inclusion of anchovies, whose faint flavor in his creation he believed may have come from the worcestershire sauce. he also decreed that only italian olive oil and imported parmesan cheese be used."    encyclopedia of american food and drink (p. 51) "according to santini...his mother used no anchovies, no lime or lemon juice and no croutons in her salad...the controversial anchovy, acknowledged by either beatriz santini nor caesar cardini, wound up on several salads.".   "hail, caesar! doubts raised over origin of famous salad," barbara hansen, los angeles times, september 13, 1984 (p. j1) "the shocking truth is that while a proper caesar always has anchovy, an authentic one never does. in its original form, caesar salad was more a culinary tourist trap than a great american food standard, famous for the tableside show that came with the salad, not the anchovy. yet it is the anchovy that most caesar aficionados consider vital; only caesar wimps ask for their salad sans the small fry. so where did the anchovy come from?...the most common theory involves worcestershire sauce. the thinking is that someone, somewhere along the way...ran out of worcestershire sauce...saw anchovy on the list of ingredients and made the brilliant substitution. 'we can't figure it out,' said rosa cardini, daughter of the salad's inventor...cardini envisioned his a subtle salad, but as rosa pointed out, subtle is exactly what anchovies aren't."   "caesar! origin of the species," laurie ochoa, los angeles times, october 16, 1988 (p. l103) when did ceasar salad become popular in the usa? conventional wisdom places the invention of this salad in the mid 20s. our survey of contemporary sources suggests its was known, but not served, in southern california until a decade later. after wwii descriptions published in trendy journals (think: gourmet) sparked interest. by the mid 1950s everyone who was anyone in the usa knew what a caesar salad was. this coincides with the passing of mr. cardini. "jean harlow, mable hormand and all the stars would come to tijuana and ask for a cesar's salad, [cesar cardini] recalled...but it didn't become famous until 1937 when a screenwriter, manny wolfe, one of my regular customers, went to the house of murphy restaurant here, called for the ingredients and made the salad. the manager, di ciro, called it his salad,. but wolf took the recipe to the brown derby and chasen's and they called it caesar salad."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) "...hollywood's great delicacy, the caesar salad...the caesar salad, which mike romanoff'll let you have at a sacrifice  only 2 bucks  is glorified garlic. it's garlic with glamor he first time i heard of a 2 buck salad, i wanted to render unto caesar what was caesar's  a big loud razberry. they my beautiful wife...pointed out that it was an aristocrat of foods. like stone crabs in miami, oysters rockefeller in new orleans, lobsters in boston, cream cheese and bagels in new york. 'why do they call it caesar salad?' i kept asking. and finally i found it was invented by an italian named caesar cardini in his tijuana restaurant, called caesar's. edmund lowe tasted it there and brought it to hollywood. caeser's ex partner, peter friggerio, formerly at the colony and marguery in new york, is now the captain at henri's here where, of course, you can get a wonderful caesar salad. but confidently, the french born henri de charpentier, who's chef there and used to be at lynbrook, l. i. thinks it's a big mistake to have such a huge glamorous salad before the main course."    "dressing up garlic, early wilson, zanesville times recorder [oh], february 1, 1947 (p. 4) "los angeles revisited a few weeks ago, for the first time in two years, revealed more conclusively than almost anything else that the gastronomic highlight of the current moment is an arrangement called caesar's salad and that its consumption is constant, universal, and something to make the public prints in any fountainhead of good living like gourmet, as it has. caesar's salad, which is only infrequently encountered in restaurants in the east, but which will inevitably arrive in new york one of these fine days, is based on romaine instead of lettuce, chopped up anchovies, a liberal inclusion of heavily garlic flavored croutons, french dressing made slick by the inclusion of a couple of whole raw eggs, and the whole thing liberally showered with grated parmesan. at romanoff's, where we were taken to luncheon by gourmet's own stephen longstreet, with an assortment of local characters which included bob hope, gregory la cava, barbara stanwyck, and hedda hopper at adjacent tables, we were introduced to caesar's salad. at dave chasen's, where we dined that evening with robert hanley, the newly discovered and flourishing decorator of the county strip, we were immediately advised that caesar's salad was the thing to have. the next evening at hansen's scandia restaurant in sunset boulevard, the assembled chivalry to a man commanded caesar's salad, and subsequent skirmishes with the menus at perino's, the vine street brown derby, the garden restaurant of the town house, and other ranking restaurants of the city of angeles evolved the conviction that caesar's salad is as much of a part of the hollywood pattern as swimming pools or the new look."    "along the boulevards," lucius beebe, gourmet, june 1948, [no recipe] accessed online who was cesar cardini? an italian immigrant who wound up in tijuana. obviously savvy, mr. cardini operated a successful restaurant offering trendy cuisine to america's glamoros hollywood stars. he left tijuana in 1935 because mexican regulations against gambling were crushing his business. mr. cardini eventually settled in los angles, running an imported foods store. he cashed in on his claim to fame by selling his dressing. he passed away at the age of 60 in 1956. "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he has lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted. he was born in lago maggiore, italy, worked many european hotels and came to the united states when he was 20. for a time, before going to tijuana, he owned a restaurant in sacramento...he leaves his widow camille, a daughter rosa...two sisters [living in italy] and two brothers, alex and caudencio, who are in the restaurant business in mexico city."    "cesar cardini, creator of salad, dies at 60," los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31) "discouraged by failure of the mexican government to lift the ban on border gambling, caesar cardini has closed his gay tijuana café forever."    "resort owner quits forever," reno evening gazette, july 1, 1936 (p. 2) "caesar now runs an italian grocery store on la ciegna boulevard, movietown's restaurant row. he's regaining his claim to the salad fame by manufacturing his caesar salad dressing in a tiny kitchen behind his store."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) vintage recipes several publications claim they have "the original" recipe. all of them are slightly different. our gastronomic guess says the simpler the recipe, the closer to the original. and? most definatley no anchovies! most probably worcestershire. there are no caesar salad (or approximations) recipes in these trendy southern california publications: corona club cook book [1925], ebell society cook book [1926] or fashions of foods in beverly hills [1931]. the oldest print recipe food historians have identified (based on ingredients & method) was published in sunset (magazine) march, 1945. curiously? it's called "romaine salad." no reference to caesar. the casual reader could easily miss the connection. the caesar dressing appears in the the brown derby cookbook/cobb [1949] but not the salad. we hypothosize this omission may be at testament to the salad's "star power." enjoying a caesar salad was a glamorous public event, complete with live tableside show. sunset cook book/annabel post [1960] mentions the march 1945 recipe but prints the 1957 version (with anchovies, p. 19). [1947] "1701. caesar salad prepare 2 cups of fried croutons (no. 203) in garlic flavored olive oil. place in wooden salad bowl rubbed with garlic, 2 medium sized heads crisp chilled romain, leaves separated and broken. sprinkle over it 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 4 oz., grated parmesan or crumbled blue cheese. add 6 tablespoons pure olive oil and juice of 2 medium sized lemons. break 2 raw eggs over salad, toss and mix gently, until trace of eggs has disappeared and the leaves have absorbed all liquid. taste for seasoning. just before serving, add the fried croutons, mixing and tossing salad again, being careful croutons do not become soggy. make at table just before serving."    the gold cook book, luis p. degouy [gallahad books:new york] 1947 (p. 815) [1950] ceasar salad from the pump room of the ambassador hotel, chicago 1 coddled egg 2 cloves garlic 1/8 teaspoon bahama mustard 1 tablespoon parmesan cheese 3/4 cup croutons 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 6 whole anchovies 2 heads romaine cut croutons out of sliced bread 1/2" square. roast same in oven, brown crisp under broiler. take two heads of romaine and wash thoroughly. cut same crosswise about 1/2" wide. place in wooden bowl. choose another bowl for your dressing. in this bowl break up garlic with fork and rub sides of bowl with it. add black pepper, pinch of salt, worcestershire sauce, mustard, lemon juice and mix thoroughly. then, after adding olive oil, mix thoroughly again. add cut up anchovies. mix coddled eggs to greens in wooden bowl. add salad dressing from second bowl and toss slightly. add croutons and half the amount of cheese and toss again, lightly. place on salad plate and sprinkle with remaining cheese."    love and fishes, niccolo de quattrochiocchi [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis in] 1950 (p. 365 366) [note: this book is chock full of celebrity recipes.] [1952] "[caesar cardinis original recipe] romaine lettuce, a one minute egg, garlic croutons, parmesan or romano cheese, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, worcestershire sauce, whole pepper, pear vinegar and olive oil."    "chef who invented caesar salad frowns on apers," aline mosby, san mateo times, june 16, 1952 (p. 11) [note: preparation/method notes are not offered.] [1952] "caesar salad crush a clove of garlic and add it to ¾ of a cup of olive oil. let stand overnight. brown 2 cups of croutons, made from stale sourdough french bread, in ¼ cup of this garlic oil, stirring them carefully so that they will color on all sides. drain on paper toweling. (or, if you prefer, merely toast the bread cubes brown in a slow oven.) now break 2 large or 3 small heads of romaine into a large bowl, grind on a good generous amount of fresh black pepper and add ½ teaspoon of salt, then dress with ½ cup of the garlic oil. turn the salad until every leaf is glossy with oil, then break 2 eggs, cooked one minute, plunk into the middle of the salad. now, before the mixing is resumed, squeeze the guide of a big fat lemon directly over the egg (if the lemon is small, use 1 ½ or even 2 of them!), and mix so that there is a thick creamy look to the lettuce. if you wish to include fillets of anchovies, and many say you must, here is where they are added 6 to 8, snipped into bits. now taste it, and don't hesitate to use your fingers. more salt? more lemon? add them, or vinegar if you wish, plenty of experts do so. (and others insist on a slug of worcestershire!) the seasoning is now as you want it, so a good ½ cup (at least) of grated parmesan is tossed in, the salad mixed some more, and finally the croutons are added, and the salad served at once so they won't become limp and soggy. like any salad of this kind, the artists adds (or subtracts) as he goes along, so caesar salad, as you make it, is all your own! serves a dozen, more or less. 1 clove garlic 2/4 cup olive oil 2 cups croutons 2 3 heads romaine ½ teaspoon salt pepper 2 eggs juice of a large lemon 6 8 fillets of anchovies (optional) ½ cup grated parmesan."    west coast cook book, helen evans brown, facsimile 1952 edition [cookbook collectors library] 1952 (p. 308 309) [1956] "caesar salad 1 large head iceberg lettuce 1 large head romaine 1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese 1/2 cup salad oil 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt dash of fresh ground pepper 1 raw egg 1/4 cup garlic wine vinegar 2 cups croutons sprinkle prepared greens with cheese. combine 1/4 cup salad oil with worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. toss lightly with greens until each piece is coated. break whole egg into greens, sprinkle with garlic wine vinegar, toss until all egg particles disappear. combine remaining oil and croutons, toss with salad. makes 8 servings."    "caesar salad featured by world famous restaurants," san mateo times, june 27, 1956 (p. 36) [1957] "caesar salad several chefs and restauranteurs claim to have originated this well known green salad. sunset first discovered the salad in a small coronado restaurant and first published the recipe in march 1945. no one seems to know whether it was created by, or for, a 'caesar.' this version was published in sunset in 1957. caesar salad is invariably tossed at the table, where everyone can watch the host or hostess season and mix the greens and drop in each additional ingredient. 1 clove garlic 3/4 cup olive or other salad oil 2 cups croutons 2 large heads romaine 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground pepper 2 eggs, cooked 1 monute juice of one large lemon 6 to 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese crush garlic in small bowl, pour over the oil, and let stand several hours. brown the croutons (preferably made from stale sourdough french bread) in 1/4 cup of the garlic oil, stirring often. (if you prefer, you can toast the bread cubes in a slow oven.) tear romaine into a large salad bowl, sprinkle with salt, and grind over a generous amount of pepper. pour over remaining garlic oil and toss until every leaf is glossy. break the 1 minute eggs into salad; squeeze over the lemon juice, and toss thorougly. add chopped anchovies and grated cheese, and toss again. lastly, add the croutons, toss genetly, and serve immediately. serves about 12."    the sunset cook book, annabel post, home economics editor [lane book company:menlo park ca] 1960 (p. 19) [1960] "the original caesar salad 3 medium heads romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp garlic flavored olive oil, about 1/3 cup wine vinegar, 2 to 3 tablespoons juice of 1 lemon 1 or 2 1 minute coddled eggs freshly ground pepper dash worcestershire sauce grated parmesan cheese, 5 or 6 tablespoons caesar croutons, about 1 cup break romaine leaves into 2  to 3 inch widths. at last minute before serving, place romaine in chilled salad bowl drizzle the garlic oil over greens, then the vinegar. squeeze the lemon over, using a fork to help free the juice. break in the 1 minute eggs. grind a flurry of pepper over all. season with salt and a dash of worcestershire. sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese. roll toss 6 or 7 times, or until dressing is thoroughly combined and every leaf is coated. add caesar croutons; toss 2 or 2 times. serve at once on chilled dinner plates. if you like, garnish with rolled anchovies. makes 6 servings as main course. " "caesar croutons: cut each slice of bread in 5 strips one way, then across 5 times to make squares. spread out on cooky sheet; pour a little garlic flavored oil over. heat in extremely slow oven (225 degrees f.) 2 hours. the croutons should be so dry, they'd float on water! ten they'll stay crunch when tossed with the dressing and greens. sprinkle croutons with grated parmesan cheese. store in jar and refrigerate to keep crispness."    "the original caesar salad," myrna johnston, better homes and gardens, march, 1960 (p. 78, 152) commercial production notes when the legendary caesar salad was *invented* by mr. cardini in his tijuana eatery in the 1920s, he made the dressing from scratch. according to his obituary, mr. cardini actively promoted commercial manufacture of his famous salad dressing: "mr. cardini devised the salad while operating the restaurant and hotel which still bears his name in tijuana. since 1935 he had lived in los angeles and was active in the marketing of the salad dressing he concocted." source: los angeles times, november 5, 1956 (p. 31). according to the records of the u.s. patent and trademark office cardini's brand caesar salad dressing was introduced to the american public february 6, 1950: word mark cardini's goods and services (abandoned) ic 029. us 046. g & s: salad dressing and salad dressing mix. first use: 19500206. first use in commerce: 19780915 mark drawing code (1) typed drawing serial number 73426710 filing date may 19, 1983 current filing basis 1a original filing basis 1a owner (applicant) cardini, rosa sinan dba, caesar cardini foods individual united states 4020 sepulveda blvd. culver city california 90230 attorney of record r. welton whann type of mark trademark register principal live/dead indicator dead abandonment date july 5, 1984 [note: cardini's brand name dressing is still being made. the current trademark owner is t. marzetti company.] perhaps the convincing push mr. cardini needed to capitalize on his name was a reaction to another company which already started making caesar dressing in the late 1940s. the earliest print evidence we find for manufactured caesar salad dressing is this advertisment published in 1949; "milani's caesar dressing for caesar salads, 45 cents/6 oz bottle." source: chicago daily tribune, september 29, 1949 (p. 9) green goddess dressing food historians generally credit philip roemer, chef of the palace hotel in san francisco, for the creation of green goddess salad dressing. it was allegedly made in honor of george arliss, an actor starring in a play by that same name. the year is fuzzy because the play ran in the 1920s followed by a popular film version in the 1930s. our survey of historic american cookbooks confirms mayonnaise based salad dressing recipes proliferated during the early decades of the 20th century. in fact? entire books were devoted to salads at that time. we examined several books and found several recipes for mayonnaise tarragon anchovy dressings onion dressings. given the noteriety of green goddess, it seems surprising to find recipes named such first surfacing in the late 1930s early 1940s. sometimes they are called "green dressing." "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1931] "green goddess salad dressing one cup mayonnaise, garlic, 1 tablespoon french dressing, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon chives chopped fine, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 4 fillets of anchoves.   la casa pico tea room"    fashions in foods in beverly hills, compiled by the book section beverly hills womans club [beverly hills], 3rd edition 1931 (p. 26) [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; "in the mid 1920s, actor george arliss starred in a william archer play called the green goddess. during the san francisco run, he stayed at the palace hotel and dined often at its palm court restaurant. to honor arliss, chef philip roemer created a new mixed green salad with a creamy herb dressing. "green goddess," he called it."    the american century cookbook: the most popular recipes of the 20th century, jean anderson [clarkson potter:new york] 1997 (p. 267) "green goddess. a salad or salad dressing made from anchovies, mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, and other seasonings, the salad was created at san francisco's palace hotel (now the sheraton palace) in the mid 1920s at the request of actor george arliss (1868 1946), who was appearing in town in william archer's play the green goddess (which opened in new york in 1921 ans as twice made into a motion picture [1923 and 1930] starring arliss)."    the encyclopedia of american food & drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 144 5) [note: this book contains a recipe supplied by the sheraton palace, no date.] green goddess recipe sampler [1937] "green goddess salad dressing combine three tablespoons finely chopped parsley, three tablespoons sliced green onion, two tablespoons chopped chives or tops of green onions, one two ounce can anchovy fillets, one cup mayonnaise, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, two tablespoons lemon juice, one fourth teaspoon salt and dash of pepper. mix well. makes two cups dressing and serves eight."    "requested recipes," marian manners, los angeles times, december 31, 1937 (p. a6) [1946] "green goddess salad dressing. the palm court of the palace hotel in san francisco has become famous for its green goddess salad dressing, and i have the gracious permission of mr. edmond a. reider, general manager of the palace hotel, to include this marvelous dressing. 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies 1 piece of young onion little parsley and tarragon leaves, chopped fine 3 cups mayonnaise rub a bowl with garlic, or use a little garlic flavored oil. mix the above ingredients; add a little tarragon vinegar and finely cut chives. cut romaine, escarole, and chicory. mix all together and serve. use 1 tablespoonful for each person."    trader vic's book of food & drink, victor bergeron, with an introduction by lucius beebe [doubleday & company:new york] 1946 (p. 197) [1949] "this california creation...originated in the palace hotel in san francisco. and miss genevieve callahan says in her appetizing volume, "the california cook book," that it was named in honor of george arliss when he was appearing in "the green goddess." this recipe, tested in our kitchen, as it comes from our informant, follows: green goddess salad 1 clove garlic, minced 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1 tablespoon worcestershire sauce cracked pepper 2 teaspoons minced chives 2/3 small tin anchovy fillets, finely chopped oil contained in the tin of anchovies 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 medium head romaine 1. place garlic in salad bowl. blend in all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and romaine. add the cracked pepper to taste. let stand at room temperature for an hour or longer. 2. just before serving add the parsley and break into the bowl the romaine leaves. toss together well. yield: four to six servings."    "news of food: a reader swears by green goddess salad...", jane nickerson, new york times, april 29, 1949 (p. 26) [1949] "you have heard, of course, of the green goddess dressing? this originated at the palace by today there are as many versions of the goddess as ways to make apple pie. here's the original recipe: green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets, finely cut 2 tabplespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon 1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise cut garlic clove in half; rub cut sides over salad bowl; add anchofy, onion, parsley, chopped tarragon, chives and tarragon vinegar. add mayonniase, gently mix until thoroughly blended. yield: 1 3/4 cups. serve over romaine, escarole and chicory."    "how america eats: san francisco...palace court salad," clementine paddleford, los angeles times, september 11, 1949 (p. g36) [1949] "green goddess salad dressing, serves 6 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tbls. lemon juice 1 cup brown derby mayonniase 1 rounding tbs. anchovy paste 2 tbs. tarragon vinegar 2 tbls. garlic vinegar 2 tbls. shallot vinegar 1/4 cup finely chopped onion 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley add lemon juice to cream, then mix with other ingredients. serve with green salad. the green goddess salad dressing originated more than thirty years ago. it was named for the play in which george arliss was starring and was first served at a testimonial dinner given him in the opening night in san francisco. delicately flavored, its smooth consistency causes this dressing to fully coat each leaf in the bowl."    brown derby cookbook [doubleday & company:garden city ny] 1949 (p. 64 5) [1952] "green goddess dressing there have been innumerable imitations and variation of this famous salad dressing since it was first created at the palace hotel, in honor of george arliss, who was opening in william archer's play the green goddess. this recipe is one given me by the palace hotel, and who should know better than they how it is prepared? the parenthetical notes are mine, added egotistically for fear that laymen may find the chef's directions a trifle vague. "mince 8 to 10 fillets of anchovies with 1 green onion, add minced parsley (1/4 cup) and minced tarragon (2 tablespoons), 3 cups of mayonnaise, a little (1/4 cup) of tarragon vinegar, and finely cut chives (1/4 cup). mix in a bowl that had been rubbed with garlic." 8 10 fillets of anchovies 1 green onion 1/4 cup minced parsley 2 tablespoons minced tarragon 3 cups mayonnaise 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar 1/4 cup finely cut chives. note: there is a growing tendency to add sour cream to green goddess dressing, as there is to add it to almost everything. do so if you wish, and cut down substantially on the mayonniase. note: another version of green goddess: 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of minced parsley, 1/4 cup of tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons fresh (or 1 of dried) tarragon (the latter soaked in the vinegar and strained out). to this add 4 minced anchovies or 2 tablespoons of anchovy paste, and either 2 tablespoons of minced green onions or chives. thin with a little cream if desired."    west coast cook book, helen brown, 1952 reprint by the cookbook collectors library (p. 318 9) [1953] "green salad dressing [about 2 cupfuls] combine in a bowl: 1 cup mayonnaise 1/2 cup heavy sour cream 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar, wine vinegar, or other 1 tablespoons garlic vinegar 2 tablespoons herb vinegar 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped onion or chives. mix these ingredinets well. serve them over vegetables of fish."    joy of cooking, irma s. rombauer and marion rommbauer becker [bobbs merrill company:indianapolis] 1953 (p. 496) [note: this recipe is not included in the 1946 or previous editions.] [1961] "green goddess sauce [yields 2 cups] 1 cup mayonnaise 1 clove garlic, minced 3 anchovies, chopped 1/4 cup finely cut chives or green onions with tops 1/4 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup sour cream blend all the ingredients except the sour cream. fold in the sour cream. serve with chilled cooked fish."    new york times cook book, craig claiborne [harper & row:new york] 1961 (p. 449) [1967] "green goddess dressing was a san francisco creation, made by a chef for george arliss when he played here in michael arlin's play, the green goddess, many years ago. there are many versions of this popular dressing. i've added a touch of chili to mone. if you prefer, leave it out  it will still be very good. serve this rich dressing on crisp romaine. a topping of prawns or crab meat is often added. green chili green goddess dressing 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 1/2 teaspoon worcestershire sauce 6 anchovies, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped green chili 2 tablespoons tarragon wine vinegar 3/4 cup mayonnaise 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives freshly ground pepper to taste combine garlic, mustard, salt, worcestershire sauce, anchovies, chili and vinegar. blend in mayonnaise and sour cream. cover and refrigerate for several hours, to blend flavors. stir in parsley, chives and pepper just before serving. makes 1 3/4 cups dressing."    elena's favorite foods, california style, elena zelayeta [prentice hall:englewood cliffs nj] 1967 (p. 68 69) roquefort roquefort cheese is ancient; roquefort salad dressing is 20th century. about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; about roquefort cheese    oxford companion to food, alan davidson [oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 670 roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1911] roquefort...is generally eaten in small quantities at the end of a dinner. it is especially delightful if rolled with half its bulk of butter, sprinkled liberally with cayenne pepper and spread on toasted biscuits. it is also used to fill the hollow parts of stalks of celery, etc."    the grocer's encyclopedia, artemas ward [new york] (p. 123) [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; roquefort...has been made for thousands of years...but the earliest known record of it in english is not before 1726."    an a to z of food and drink, john ayto [oxford university press:oxford] 2002 (p. 286) "according to legend, roquefort was discovered centuries ago possibly before the christian era...the legend has it that a shepherd boy in the rocky country of the causses left his lunch of bread and ordinary curd cheese in one of the cool caves of the district, thinking to come back for it later in the day. but it was weeks before he returned to find his abandoned lunch. then, with the morbid curiousity of those who cannot throw anything away without peeking first, he looked, he smelled, and then he tasted. at which there may well have followed on of the greatest aha's in gastronomic history...and since 1411 when charles vi issued a decree restricting the name roquefort fo the cheese made int he roquefort district of the causses, no other...could be called roquefort."    the cheese book, vivienne marquis and patricia haskell [leslie frewisn:london] 1964 (p. 127 8) recommended reading: the roquefort adventure/henri pourrat p> roquefort salad dressing: our food history sources indicate roquefort dressing, as we know it today, may be a relatively new item. none of the sources we checked credit a particular person/place with the invention. we do know that creamy cheese dressings were not part of early modern french cuisine. roquefort dressing/sauce is not included in escoffier's guide culinaire [1907]. it is the "dressing of choice" for classic american iceberg wedge salad, circa 1950s 1960s. [1916] "roquefort cheese dressing. mix one fourth cupful of roquefort cheese to a paste with one third cupful of olive oil, add one half teaspoonful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste and enough paprika to make it a creamy pink color, then add one tablespoonful of vinegar and beat the dressing while slowly adding more olive oil until it is thin enough to serve. this dressing is suitable for lettuce, tomatoes and other green vegetable salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadeliphia] 1916 (p. 171 2) russian there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1912] "vegetable salad, russian dressing for this delicious salad, arrange on lettuce some string beans, asparagus, beets and corn. serve with russian dressing, which is made by thinning a mayonnaise dressing with chili sauce, chopped parsley, onion and green pepper."    "tested recipes," wilkes barre times [pa], december 4, 1912 (p. 16) [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; there is some controversy regarding the origin of russian salad and russian salad dressing. primary evidence confirms these recipes were known in russia in the 19th century. they were introduced by the french and known as "vinaigrette" or "salad olivier." american food historians generally believe that russian salad/dressing are american inventions based on selected ingredients associated with russian cuisine. russian dressing, as we know it today, it is a creamy vinaigrette concoction. these dressing were popular in the 19th century. this is also the base for french dressing. "russian dressing. a salad dressing made form mayonnaise, pimiento, chile sauce, green pepper, and chives. it is so called possible because the mixture was thought to resemble those found in russian salads, but it is american in origin, first found in print in 1922."    encyclopedia of american food and drink, john f. mariani [lebhar friedman:new york] 1999 (p. 278) "i rather doubt that you will find a recipe for russian dressing in any russian cookbook, and it seems quite definately of american origin. to the best of my knowledge you won't find it in the french repertory of cooking under sauce russe or otherwise. it is my belief that the original recipe for the dressing contained caviar, in addition to mayonnaise, chili sauce, horeseradish, and grated onion, and that this is the source of the name."    craig claiborne's the new york times food encyclopedia, compiled by joan whitman [times books"new york] 1985 (p. 376) "like strawberries romanoff, other dishes that americans associate with russia carry russian names but are not part of the traditional cusine. these include russian dressing, a mixture of mayonnaise and chili sauce...some food writers claim that russian dressing got its name because it once contained caviar, but that is unlikely. the name probably refers to the russian love of pickles, as pickles or relish are often added to the dressing."    oxford encyclopedia of food and drink in america, andrew f. smith editor [oxford university press:new york] 2004, volume 2 (p. 379) the earliest print reference we find for russian dressing is a menu from the gridiron club: "endive salad, russian dressing..." washington post, october 10, 1911 (p. 1). according to the article below, russian salads and their dressings were fashionable in the years immediately preceding the great war. predictably, every cook offered a unique interpretation of this particular salad. early recipes [1914] "russian dressing a very excellent recipe for "russian dressing" is as follows: get a large bowl and mixer, then beat yolk of 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mustard and 1 of salt, a dash of paprika and 1/2 cup vinegar. mix up well and, while mixing, add 1 pinch olive oil and continue mixing until thick. strain one half bottle of chili sauce throuh a cloth and mix what remains with the dressing. add some chopped chives and a dahs of worcestershire sauce and the dressing is complete."    "household department," boston daily globe, january 23, 1914 (p. 14) russian salad? what we americans know as russian salad originated in the that country in the 19th century. it was created by a french chef and composed (partly) of native ingredients. most notably, beets and pickles. in russia it was called "salad olivier," after the chef who concocted it: "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: [1919] "blackstone dressing mix with four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, two of chili sauce and two of tomato catsup with two of vinegar. roquefort cheese may be added if desired."    "helps for home needs," pueblo chieftan [colorado], feburary 28, 1919 (p. 5) what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1912] "thousand island dressing take one cup mayonnaise dressing, mix, with one half cup whipped cream, add small amount of tarragon vinegar, one half teaspoonful of imperial sauce, then chop one hard boiled egg, one green pepper, one pimento, one pinch chives, mix well together and squeeze the juice of one lemon before serving. this sauce can be served with any kind of salad."    "thousand island dressing," kansas city star [missouri], november 26, 1912 (p. 7) [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; "salad olivier. this salad is a creation of a french chef, m. olivier, who in the 1860s opened a fashionable moscow restaurant, the ermitage, where the salad became so popualr that ever dinner in the restaurant included it. the original recipe involved grouse meat, crayfish tails, and truffles. the most respected chefs in town tried to re create the dish, but it never came out as well as at the ermitage, possible because of the unique compound flavoring of the mayonnaise, whose secret m. olivier never divulged."    the art of russian cuisine, anne volokh [macmillan:new york] 1983 (p. 60) "as for 'russian salad', as interpereted in western countries (i.e. diced cooked vegetables in or with mayonnaise), it was essentiallly a french russian creation called vinegrety which had a dressing of oil and vinegar."    oxford companion to food, alan davidson oxford university press:oxford] 1999 (p. 676) compare these recipes: [1861:russia] "vinaigrette.* take various cooked meats: game or wild fowl; veal or beef; or boiled fish, such as sturgeon, pike or salmon. add 1 2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon cornichons, 1 salted or fresh large, peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard boiled eggs, 5 6 marinated saffron milk cal mushrooms, 1 spoon pickles, 5 6 boiled, finely chopped potatoes, 2 spoons capers, 3 spoons sauerkraut, 1/2 glass white beans, boiled in salted water, and 20 pitted olives. cube all these ingredients and pour on mustard sauce, made by mixing together salt, pepper, 1/2 glass or more vinegar, about 2 spoons olive oil, 1 1/2 spoons prepared mustard, and 2 3 pieces sugar, if desired. mix the sauce with the vegetables arrange on a platter, and surround with attractively sliced boiled potatoes and beets. place parsley all around or decorate with variously colored aspic, lemon, and hard boiled eggs. for fast days, omit all meat and dairy products." * internationally, this salad and others like it have become known a "russian salad," while in russia they are often called "olivier salad," after the french chef of that name who in the 1880s ran a fashionable moscow restaurant called the hermitage."    classic russian cooking: elena molokhovets' a gift to young housewives, translated and introduced by joyce toomre [indiana university press:bloomington] 1992 (p. 298) [1903:usa] "russian salad. 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, whcih should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. pour over the remaining quantity of aspic which must be cold, not hard, and stand in a cold place overnight for several hours. when ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel."    mrs. rorer's new cook book, sarah tyson rorer [arnold and company:philadelphia] 1902 (p. 470 1) "a request for "russian salad dressing" arouses my curiousity as to what some cook has, quite independent of tradition, given that name. as far as my experience in a number of countries goes, the salad dressing served with russian salad is the mayonnaise alone, or for more exquisite salads a mayonnaise mixed with a bit of gelatin or highly seasoned meat jelly (aspic) melted. in some cases if a fine salad is wanted each of the ingredients is mixed with a french dressing (marinated), and allowed to stand for an hour or more before they are put together, and served with a mayonnaise...as to how a russian salad is different from a french macedoine or jardiniere... it might be hard to decide, in some countries, but there is probably no doubt but that in russia smoked salmon and other rfish are used in it. as it became popular in other countries only the mixture of cooked vegetables has been used, peas and carrots being essential. russian sald in italy is defined as "all kinds of cooked vegetables cut up together and served with mayonnaise."...artusi says that the thing called russian salad (insalata russa), "now the mode for dinners," has the fundamental characteristic that cooks slop together what they please. he states that he makes it simply of lettuce, beet root, green beans, potatoes, carrots, capers, little cucumber pickles, salt anchovies, and a hard boiled egg. he cuts up and arranges these, according to his own fancy, then makes a mayonnaise. he prepares a gelatin, puts a layer of it into a mold, and arranges on a layer of it different colored vegetables et cetera...the following recipe is a famous belgian cook's recipe: salad russe...add at the moment of serving three or four tablespoons of 'mayonnaise a la gelee,' (with gelatin) well seasoned which you have beat to a cream on ice. press in a dom form and cover with mayonniase. decorate with details of pickles, of beet root cut in rounds and crescents, with capers and filets of anchovy."    "economical housekeeping," jane eddington, chicago daily tribune, september 17, 1913 (p. 11) thousand island dressing many food historians credit sophia lalonde, of clayton ny, with the invention of thousand island dressing. her recipe, as legend has it, was popular with vacationers summering in the thousand island region between new york and canada. lalonde's hotel, now renamed the thousand island inn, stills serves the "original product." we've been there and it is delicious! historians also credit two other originators for this dressing: oscar tschirky, of the waldorf astoria [nyc] and chef theo rooms [chicago] "national culinary progress, official organ of progressive culinary association, published at chicago, give the origin of thousand island dressing. chef theo rooms of the drake hotel, chicago, is credited as being the originator of this famous dressing. it was first produced in the blackstone of chicago, when this hotel was first opened, and mr. rooms was the chef de garde manger. the magazine quotes mr. rooms to the effect that it was first called blackstone dressing. later, mr. rooms, in collaboration with albert awater, maitre d'hotel of the blackstone, gave to it the name thousand island dressing. another story of its creation is that it origainted in the home of george c. boldt, in the thousand islands of the st. lawrence river, and that it was served under the name of thousand island dressing in the waldorf astoria hotel, new york, before served in the blackstone."    author's note, the edgewater beach hotel salad book, arnold shircliffe [hotel monthly press:evanston il] 1926 (p. 261 262) the blacktone connection the earliest print reference we found for blackstone dressing was a dinner menu from the hotel holland cafe, duluth minnesota, september 19, 1915, 6 to 8pm. "head lettuce and orange salad, blackstone dressing," duluth news tribune (mn), september 19, 1915 (p. 11). the earliest recipe we found was this: what were the original thousand island dressing ingredients? if the owners of the hotel (now holders of the trademark) won't divulge, it is unlikely we will ever know. there is no recipe for thousand island dressing in oscar tschirky's famous cookbook by "oscar" of the waldorf, circa 1908. our survey of historic american newspapers offers the earliest references to thousand island dressing in 1912. recipes begin to show up in american cookbooks about as 1916. as one might expect, there were several variations! surprisingly? the oldest print reference we found to thousand island dressing came from a texas newspaper: "at university of texas tent at the state fair yesterday, miss rich gave a lecture on "salds and salad dressing,"...demonstration is given. tomato and green pepper salad, vegetable salad with thousand island dressing and stuffed cherry salad were prepared. the following is a recipe for the vegetable salad and the dressing...thousand island dressing. this dressing is made by adding chopped onions, green pepper, nut meats, olives and pimentos to any good mayonnaise or cooked salad dressing."    "university of texas tent is thronged," dallas morning news [texas], october 19, 1912 (p. 9) [note: the name of this dressing is not capitalized in this article.] sample early recipes: [1914] "thousand island dressing some one has asked you for the recipe for "thousand island" dressing. it is the oil mayonnaise, made as usual, then enough chili sauce added to satisfy the desires of the cook...the influx of recipe for the dressing...indicated, and after weeks of vain solicitation for the formula, reminds one of the beraking up of a 'log jam' in rivers that border lumbering districts. were i to undertake the publication of one half that like before me, there would be room for nothing else in our corner for a month to come. the oddest part of the flood is that no three recipes are alike. one is ready to ask if tha number may not, in the long run, rival that of the islands from which the formula borrowed its name. the honorable authority authority quoted above has apparently supplied the key to the enigma. all have one and the same foundation. and many have builded thereupon."    "marian harlan's helping hand," marian harland, chicago daily tribune, february 6, 1914 (p. 16) [1916] "thousand island dressings no. 1.  mix one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing with one half cupful of whipped cream, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped pimientoes, one tablespoonful of chopped green peppers, one chopped hard cooked egg, one half teaspoonful of chopped chives, one half tablespoonful of tomato catchup and one half tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. stir well together and serve with any green salad. no. 2.  rub one hard cooked egg through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion, two small cooked or canned beets, finely chopped, one half cupful of mayonnaise dressing, one tablespoonful of sieved chili sauce and four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. chill before using. no. 3.  put one half cupful of olive oil into a jar, add the strained juice of half a lemon and half an orange, one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, six chopped olives, six chopped cooked chestnuts, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika, one teaspoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, a few drops of tabasco sauce and one fourth teaspoonful of mustard. cover the jar and shake the mixture for eight minutes. serve with lettuce, endive, tomato and combination salads."    salads, sandwiches and chafing dish recipes, marion harris neil [david mckay:philadelphia] 1916 (p. 168 9) [1917] "french thousand island dressing 1 tbsp. orange juice. 1 tbsp. lemon juice. 1 tsp. onion juice. 2 tbsp. finely chopped green pepper. 2 tbsp. finely chopped pimentoes. add the above ingredients to french dressing." "french dressing. 1/2 tsp. salt. 1/4 tsp pepper. 1/8 tsp. paprika. 1 to 2 tbsp. vinegar. 4 tbsp. oil. mix ingredients in order given, stirring vigorously."    the housewife's cook book, lilla frich [lilla frich:minneapolis mn] 1917 (p. 204) [1917] "thousand island salad dressing (six portions) 1/2 c olive oil 2 t lemon juice 2 t orange juice 1 t onion juice 1/4 t salt 1/4 t paprika 1 t worcestershire sauce 1/4 t mustard 1 t chopped parsley place all the above ingredients in a pint fruit jar, fit a rubber on the jar cover, and shake vigorously until the dressing is well mixed and creamy. pour over tomatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, spinach or lettuce. serve as a salad."    a thousand ways to please a husband, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lccron [a.l. burt:new york] 1917 (p. 89) [1919] "thousand island dressing, for salads. two soupspoonfuls of mayonnaise, one soupspoonful of chili sauce, one soupspoonful of french dressing, one teaspoonful of chopped pimentos, one half teaspoonful of chopped olives, salt and pepper, all well mixed. use a very cold salad bowl."    hotel st. francis cook book, victor hirtzler [hotel monthly press:chicago] 1919 (p. 335) [1923] "thousand island dressing (four portions) (a modern and popular dressing served much in hotels and tea rooms) one fourth cup lemon juice one half cup vegetable or olive oil one level teaspoon chopped parsley one fourth level teasooon ground mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon worcestershire sauce one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level tablespoon chopped onion two tablespoons chili sauce. mix the ingredients in a glass jar. cover closely and shake for three minutes. serve very cold. (shake again before serving.) use on head lettuce, cooked asparagus salad or sliced tomatoes. "chicago thousand island dressing (four portions) (a more elaborate thousand island dressing.) one fourth level teaspoon mustard one level teaspoon salt one fourth level teaspoon paprika one level teaspoon worcestershire sauce two level tablespoons chopped hard cooked eggs one level tablespoon chopped green pepper two level tablespoons chopped pimientos one fourth cup orange juice one third cup lemon juice two thirds cup oil mix the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle. cover firmly. shake vigorously for three minutes. serve very cold."    bettina's best salads and what to serve with them, louise bennett weaver and helen cowles lecron [a.l. burt:new york] 1923(p. 41) wooden salad bowls why do we use wooden salad bowls & when did they become popular in the usa? on first pass, we assumed wooden salad bowls were introduced in the usa post wwii think: 1960s scandinavian/polynesian tiki chic & 1970s/80s wedding gifts. we were wrong. are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) foodtimeline library owns 2300+ books, hundreds of 20th century usa food company brochures, & dozens of vintage magazines (good housekeeping, american cookery, ladies home journal &c.) we also have ready access to historic magazine, newspaper & academic databases. service is free and welcomes everyone. have questions? ask! about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1; are they french? the french connection is tenuous. escoffier (1907), madam e. saint ange (1927), louis diat (1941,1946) offer copious notes & several salad recipes. the french advocated rubbing garlic on the side of the salad bowl before adding greens (presumably to enhance flavor) but none comment on the physical properties of the salad bowl. great depression connection? historic usa primary sources place wooden salad bowls in the middle of the great depression. first lady eleanor roosevelt was a fan but she does not say why. possibly? her endorsement inspired national embracement. print evidence confirms 1930s usa promtion for making tossed salads in wooden salad bowls. was this savvy marketing, culinary enlightenment or national nutrition plea? [1934] "are you tired of salads? does the lettuce tomato cucumber combination weary you even as you think of it? here are a few suggestions for fairly staple salads that take the place of the meat course in name if not ingredient...instead of serving the salad in the usual way, kept it in a big wooden salad bowl, line with leaf lettuce or garnished with any available green and let each one help himself."    "capital kitchen," susan milds, washington post, july 13, 1934 (p. 15) "some housekeepers are mixing their colors in the pottery ensembles; blue, green, black and orange pieces, with a huge wooden salad bowl and wooden salad plates."    "new table wares make smart sunday night supper informal serve yourself affair," washington post, september 16, 1934 (p. s6) "the annual exhibition and christmas sale of val kill furniture, made at hyde park under the supervision of mrs. franklin d. roosevelt and a group of her friends, was opened yesterday morning at the president's home here...artistically arranged in the living room and library on the second floor of the roosevelts' house, the val kill pieces included...wooden salad bowls."    "holiday sale opened by president's wife," new york times, november 13, 1934 (p. 21) [1935] "three grand prizes have been selected for their attractiveness as well as their practicability. the first prize is a handsomely carved and brilliantly decorated wooden salad bowl, with matching wooden serving spoon and for. the colors are resistant in vinegar and other salad ingredients and will remain intact through constant use. the bowl can be used for salads served at the table or as an effective background or fruit or vegetable centerpiece for the dining room table."    "3 grand prizes to be awarded in new recipe competition," washington post, october 15, 1935 (p. 14) [1936] "although a comparative newcomer to the household, the salad bowl already is an emblem of american hospitality. generous of size as a rule, and filled with attractively arranged and appetizing combinations of fruits or vegetables, it bids fair to make a place for itself in the american tradition of hospitality similar to that achieved by the samovar in russia. wooden salad bowls are the most popular here and whether yours is made of fine, matched woods or roughly hewn or cheaper material, it must be treated according to the traditions established for it. first, rub a tiny piece of garlic around its inner surface. the bowl must never be washed. instead, wipe it thoroughly with a dry towel."    "salad bowl is an emblem of hospitality," washington post, may 2, 1936 (p. 13) [1939] "crisp, crinkly and delectably cool  they're something about a salad prepared at the table or carried in from the kitchen that wins a vote for green toss ups. as an inspiration to salad tossers, the shops show a tempting line up of bowls in wood, glass, pottery and china with wooden spoons and fork accompaniments. experts insist that the wood bowl is the thing, as it is less likely to bruise the tender greens. according to an old tradition, the wooden salad bowl should never be washed. if this is against your idea lf cleanliness, compromise by washing with warm water, but never with soap suds. mixed greens top the list for summer piquancy. fresh young leafy greens, besides leaf and head lettuce, such as chicory, endive, kale, escarole, water cress, romaine, dandelion greens, beet tops, parsley, spinach, swiss chard and green and red cabbage are all naturals for the salad bowl. carrots, white turnips and parsnips are also vegetables to give tang and color to the salad and also a crunch quality. for garnish, or even as a part of the salad proper, red radishes, tomatoes, chives, cucumbers and onions are all vegetables that like each other's company. for the extras which may be added to the dressing, or as a garnish, there is parsley , green pepper, ripe or green olives, pickles, anchovies, hard cooked eggs, and even pomegranate seeds. salad epicures agree that the best dressing for the salad bowl is french, and that it should be mixed through the ingredients and not drizzled over the top. don't miss the fun of mixing your own dressing some time, although there are excellent dressings on the market. a chief 'must' in the green salad is a faint trace of garlic. rub a clove of it around the bowl before dripping in the greens, or it may be shaken in the bottle with the dressing. the french custom is to rub a crust of dry bread with the sliced clove leaving the bread in the bowl until the tossing is finished. don't ever chop garlic and add it as another ingredient. the key to salad success is to have everything crisp and cold. prepare things at least an hour in advance and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. tear of break the ingredients into bits, but not so fine as to give a chopped up look. hash is a grand dish, but not in the salad bowl."    "salad season calls forth 'mix your own' enthusiasts," washington post, may 19, 1939 (p. 19) about culinary research & about copyright research conducted by lynne olver, editor the food timeline. about this site. var sc_project=308664; var sc_partition=1; var sc_invisible=1;

july 18, 2013 7:43 am 1 of 10 sarah deshaw grilled watermelon salad...who knew?! 2 of 10 sarah deshaw picnic in style with fresh flowers and a bright checked tablecloth. 3 of 10 sarah deshaw a seafood twist to your traditional barbeque fare. 4 of 10 sarah deshaw low country flavors work nicely on the grill. 5 of 10 sarah deshaw what else but our own sweet vidalias? 6 of 10 sarah deshaw why settle for frozen pizza when you can grill this?! 7 of 10 sarah deshaw try some new combinations to top your classic hot dog. 8 of 10 sarah deshaw mason jars are the perfect way to serve cold beverages. 9 of 10 sarah deshaw 10 of 10 sarah deshaw does it get any better than this?! click on the slideshow tab to see pictures of all the recipes. food, family, friends & fire the table awaits, ready for the crowd to gather and enjoy an afternoon of backyard barbecuing. this time, add some ooh’s and aah’s to the conversation by serving something different than the usual burgers, brats and chicken. all recipes were grilled on site, taste tested and teen approved. now, that’s family culinary success to celebrate! the history of grilling cooking meat over an open flame began with the dawn of civilization. however, the popularity of “grilling out” is fairly recent. until the 1940s, grilling over a barbeque was reserved for park picnics and campsites. as the middle classes began to move into the suburbs, backyard grilling became popular. chicagoan george stephen was a metalworker for weber brothers metal works, and like many american suburbanites, he grilled in his back yard on summer weekends. growing frustrated with open air braziers, he hinged together two metal half spheres (used by weber to make lake buoys), punctured the upper half and created moveable air vents which allowed the flame, smoke and air circulation to be controlled by the chef. this was the first weber grill. originally sold as george’s barbecue kettle, the dome covered kettles became weber brothers’ best selling product. in 1958 stephen bought the company, which he subsequently renamed weber stephen. he had a dozen children and a strong aversion to personal publicity, so next to nothing beyond these basics is known of his life. he died in 1993, his weber stephen product company remaining in family hands. but boy, did he leave a legacy. laid back low country instead of scattering the meal across a newspaper topped table, the main ingredients are assembled into a burger and salad. of course, corn is corn, but it gets special spicy treatment here. shrimp burgers with sweet ‘n spicy tartar sauce much heartier than a crab cake, this isn’t a burger; it’s a seafood experience! sweet ‘n spicy tartar sauce adds another flavor layer. grilling method: direct / medium high heat 1 1/2 lbs unpeeled, medium size, wild caught shrimp, raw (40/50 count) vegetable cooking spray 1 large egg, beaten 1 t mayonnaise 2 tsp lemon juice 1/2 tsp kosher or sea salt 1/8 tsp cayenne 3 t finely chopped celery 2 t each finely chopped vidalia onion and red bell pepper 1 1/4 cups crushed saltine crackers 4 hamburger rolls 4 bibb lettuce leaves sweet ‘n spicy tartar sauce peel shrimp and devein. cut each shrimp into thirds. cover small cookie sheet with foil, coat with cooking spray. in large mixing bowl, whisk together egg and next 4 ingredients until well blended; stir in celery, onion and bell pepper. fold in shrimp and cracker crumbs (mixture will be very thick). shape into 4 1 inch thick patties. place patties on prepared cookie sheet, cover and chill for 1 to 24 hours. grill burgers, covered, 4 5 minutes, or until burgers lift easily from grate using a large spatula. turn burgers and grill 2 3 minutes or until shrimp are pink and burgers are cooked through and lightly crisp. grill buns, cut sides down, until lightly toasted. serve with sweet ‘n spicy tartar sauce and lettuce. serves 4 sweet ‘n spicy tartar sauce 1 cup mayonnaise 2 t chopped fresh parsley 2 t prepared horseradish 1 1/2 tsp cajun seasoning 1 1/2 tsp lemon juice 1/4 tsp paprika stir together all ingredients in a bowl. cover and chill 30 minutes to 24 hours. grilled lowcountry corn when grilled this way, stubborn corn silks slip right away along with the husks. sprinkling on old bay on the hot buttered corn instead of salt and pepper adds the unmistakable flavor of a lowcountry boil. grilling method: direct/medium heat 1 ear of corn per guest, unshucked butter old bay dry seasoning trim the silk ends of the corn with a pair of scissors. fill the sink or bucket with cold water and soak corn, husk and all for 30 minutes. shake excess water off of corn and take to grill. place corn directly on the cooking grate and grill for 10 15 minutes, turning occasionally until the outside is slightly charred and the inside is steamed and tender. field fresh corn takes between 4 5 minutes to cook and fresh grocery store corn will take closer to 10 minutes. remove from grill, serve in the husk and let everyone shuck their own corn. butter the ear, then sprinkle with old bay to taste. confetti potato salad the combination of red skinned, purple and white fingerling potatoes creates a new look for the traditional favorite, plus smaller potatoes mean little peeling or chopping. white balsamic and honey vinaigrette dressing and bacon is reminiscent of german potato salad. 1 bag assorted variety small potatoes plus 4 5 small, red new potatoes 1/4 cup each finely chopped celery and vidalia onion 1/2 cup combination of finely chopped red and yellow bell peppers 3 slices crisply cooked bacon, crumbled 1 tsp celery seed salt and pepper to taste olde cape cod all natural white balsamic & honey vinaigrette dressing to taste boil potatoes until tender, 15 20 minutes. rinse under running water until cooled, but still warm; blot until dry. cut larger potatoes into chunks, and put into serving bowl. add remaining dry ingredients. pour vinaigrette to coat and while stirring, slightly mash some of the potatoes for creaminess, leaving the remainders in bite sized chunks. adjust vinaigrette and seasonings. serve room temperature or cold. serves 4 6 mayo, oh my … oh! yes, white barbecue sauce. it’s a mayonnaise based sauce created in the south that’s quickly growing in popularity. eyed with extreme suspicion by veteran barbecuers because of its main ingredient, it’s winning over adventurous eaters bite by bite. grilled chicken with white barbecue sauce add a little heat and lemony zest to your barbecue chicken repertoire. use it as a marinade, a baste, dipping sauce or all three! this sauce contains less sugar than the more familiar red sauces, but still caramelizes nicely over heat. 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise 1 t grated lemon zest 1/2 cup each lemon juice and water 2 t chopped fresh oregano leaves 2 t white worchestershire sauce   “rooster booster” 1 t each coarse black pepper and dry yellow mustard 3 large cloves garlic, crushed through a press 2 tsp sugar 2 tsp prepared horseradish 5 lbs chicken parts (wings, drumsticks, thighs and quartered breasts) whisk together all ingredients in a medium bowl. place chicken in a 2 gallon ziptop bag; add ½ cup sauce, seal bag and toss to coat. marinate chicken in refrigerator up to 2 days. refrigerate remaining sauce. the trick to perfect barbecue chicken is grilling over a two zone fire and only applying extra sauce after the chicken is mostly cooked. grill the chicken, covered, over the cool side of the grill until the skin starts to brown and crisp. then move the chicken closer to, but not directly over, the flames and begin to baste. this will give the chicken time to absorb the flavors without burning it. when the chicken is almost done, approximately 35 40 minutes, apply the last layer of sauce and move directly over the heat source, grilling until the sauce slightly is caramelized, not burned. serves 8 vegetable grillers while you’re breaking away from traditional bbq sauces, try a side of grilled vegetables. easy, tasty, and oh, so good for you, too! grilling enhances the flavor of fruits and vegetables by concentrating and caramelizing their natural sugars. give fruits and veggies a very light brush of oil, then stick them on the grill over medium to high heat, turning as soon as grill marks appear. cook for no more than 5 8 minutes total to help them retain their natural texture. try the following prep techniques: beefsteak tomatoes, bell peppers, endive, fennel, leeks, mangos, melons, nectarines, onions, peaches, pineapples, plums, portobello mushrooms, and romaine lettuce keep them big   whole, halves or large chunks   to keep them from falling through the grate. eggplant, yellow squash, and zucchini slice lengthwise; round cuts are more likely to drop down. corn husk on or off? leave on for a steamy, smoked flavor; off and the kernels’ direct access to heat results in a deliciously sweet, charred taste. asparagus larger spears can sit right across the grill. to keep thinner spears from plummeting to a fiery death, place them on a perforated vegetable grill pan. brussels sprouts, carrots, cherry tomatoes, and white mushrooms these need help staying above the flame. always cook on skewers, in a vegetable basket, or wrapped in foil. fired up flatbreads ok, technically it’s not pizza, but topping pre made crusts with your own yummy combos and tossing them on a hot grill beats home delivery any day. frozen pizza? when you can do this? fuhgeddaboudit. grilled flatbreads making your own pizza crust from scratch is so martha stewart. the goal of outdoor grilling is to cut out the hard work. making these flatbreads is all about being fun to create and quick to fix! grilling method: direct / medium high heat 1 12” or 8” premade pizza crust (such as boboli) various toppings olive oil before starting, brush the bottom and top crusts of each pie with olive oil. for added flavor, before the oil soaks completely into the top crust, sprinkle with sea or garlic salt, poppy or sesame seeds, or shredded parmesan cheese. then gather toppings and get going! lay your creation on a clean grate and close the lid. check the crust bottom and toppings after 8 minutes. below are three idea starters; adjust amounts to your personal taste and the size of your pie. herbed margherita semisoft cheese spread with garlic and herbs, such as alouette baby heirloom tomatoes, different varietals for more complex flavors, thinly sliced and blotted dry fresh basil, 5 6 large leaves cut into long, thin strips with kitchen scissors fresh buffalo mozzarella cheese olive oil spread pie with a thin layer of herbed cheese. cover with slices of tomato, arranged so they are closely touching. slice mozzarella cheese into bite sized pieces and arrange on top of tomatoes. sprinkle entire surface with basil to taste. drizzle with olive oil and place on the grill. ultimate mushroom selection of mushrooms containing cremini, baby portobellos, shitake, white and oyster varieties (available pre packaged in some grocery stores) vidalia onion, cut into half moon slivers goat cheese; crumbles or log, sliced into thin rounds olive oil fresh marjoram, optional. cut desired amount of onion into half moon slivers and select the amount of mushrooms needed to completely cover the pie. pour 1 t olive oil into sauté pan and over medium heat, cook onions and mushrooms until slightly wilted, approximately 7 8 minutes. remove from stove and set aside. brush the top of a pie with olive oil. arrange sautéed mushrooms and onions to cover and top with goat cheese. pinch leaves from sprigs of marjoram and sprinkle over top, if desired, and place on grill. classic spinach salad baby spinach leaves vidalia onion, cut into half moon slivers 3   5 slices bacon, cooked crisp and broken into pieces bleu cheese crumbles cook bacon in a sauté pan on the stove until crisp; set aside on paper towels. drain all but 1 t of the bacon grease or if preferred, clean pan and use 1 t olive oil to cook onion slivers until slightly wilted, approximately 7 8 minutes. remove from stove and set aside. brush the top of a pie with olive oil. layer spinach leaves, covering the top. scatter with sautéed onions and crisp bacon pieces. top with bleu cheese crumbles and place on grill. haute dog take this all american edible icon to the height of culinary fashion. when grocery shopping, push your cart right past the usual ketchup and mustard and shop for quirky condiments, saucy salsas and piquant pickles to dress your dog to the nines. basic barkers the tried and true basic grilling method yields a spectacular dog, ready to be loaded into a bun and covered with treats. grilling method: direct / medium heat place premium quality, all beef hot dogs directly over the heat and close cover, grilling 5 7 minutes or until heated through and showing grill marks. lift lid to turn occasionally. during the last 2 minutes, place buttered buns, cut side down on grill, to lightly toast. and once you try these toppings you’ll be begging for more. olé dogs corn, onion and red pepper relish avocado chunks downtown franks sauerkraut grated swiss cheese 1000 island dressing hula hots diced fresh pineapple chopped sweet red cherry peppers, such as peppadews chopped fresh cilantro leaves sweet hot mustard who knew?! apples, mangoes, nectarines, peaches, pineapples, plums   they’ve all had their turn on the grill and they’re stars, with recipes showing up in all the national magazines. but icy, crisp slices of watermelon? we had to try it. and now, so do you. grilled watermelon salad with sour orange and mint dressing grilling the watermelon adds a smoky note that turns the melon from sweet to savory and the heat concentrates the flavor, making it refreshing and perfect for the summer! grilling method: direct / medium low heat 1 small 3 4 pound seedless watermelon, not overripe 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil for dressing; additional for grilling 3 limes, juiced 1 2 large navel oranges, juiced small bunch of fresh mint leaves, chopped 1/2 cup crumbled feta or goat cheese, whichever is preferred sea or kosher salt cayenne pepper cut the watermelon in half lengthwise, then cut each half in half lengthwise again so that you have 4 long, triangular pieces. cut each of the 4 sections into wedge shaped, 2 inch thick slices. brush both sides of each slice lightly with olive oil and set aside until ready to grill. combine the juice of limes with 1 orange and taste. if it’s too tart, add more orange juice; it should taste like a “sour” orange. add a pinch of salt and cayenne. add oil in a thin stream and whisk continually until well mixed (emulsified). taste and adjust oil and salt to taste. add mint. just before serving, place oiled watermelon slices directly on a very clean cooking grate. grill for 2 3 minutes on each side or until slightly warmed through but still crunchy. remove to serving platter. drizzle sour orange and mint dressing over the slices and sprinkle with an additional pinch of cayenne and coarse salt. add cheese crumbles and serve immediately. serves 6 10 all items featured in food, family, friends, fire were purchased locally and prepared using a gas grill. cooking temperatures are given for both charcoal and gas grilling. ***content reprinted from august 2010 issue, photography courtesy of sarah deshaw july 18, 2013 7:43 am elegant island living

discovering new foodventures with each bite i’m rather obsessed with video streaming on amazon prime and in fact, a bit embarrassed to divulge how much binge watching i’ve done over the past several months….ok, more like year. like netflix, it’s just too easy to either continue on with the next episode of whatever show i’ve gone crazed for or check out some flick i hadn’t heard of before. i’ve watched things like band of brothers (i know, i was nearly 15 years late on that), house of lies, a bunch of teenie bopper movies and documentaries like sriracha. yup….i said sriracha. like millions of others, i adore the thai influenced chili condiment. i keep a bottle at work, packets in my purse and my home is never without it. but to give me some cred, i was chugging sriracha long before it had such an insane cult following as it was basically in my bottle as a baby being the standard condiment for phở. after the quick documentary, i was inspired to consume lots more sriracha. what can i say? product placement works well on me. so i jumped in the kitchen and rummaged around a bit to see what things i could throw together. and this is what i came up with… sriracha wedge salads! what?! why haven’t i ever thought of it before?! i love classic wedge salads mostly because it’s one of the greatest ways for me to enjoy blue (or is it “bleu”?) cheese dressing. i get that bleu/blue cheese isn’t for everyone….it’s piquant, tangy and can be a little stanky but in a good way! which is why a crisp and chilled iceberg is a wonderful pairing for it. i doctored up my easy bleu/blue dressing with a hefty portion of sriracha and boom! the sriracha angels sang! the dressing keeps well in the fridge for about a week so go crazy and make a double batch to dunk some crispy wings/fries/ calamari in, smother over burgers or whatever your sriracha lovin’ heart desires! need some other ideas to spread the sriracha love with? how about: happy sriracha adventures! ____________________________ sriracha wedge salads serves 4 ingredients: ¼ cup buttermilk ½ cup low fat sour cream 1 heaping tablespoon sriracha hot sauce, more to taste 2 heaping tablespoons low fat mayonnaise 1 finely minced garlic clove 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon lemon zest kosher salt black pepper ½ cup bleu cheese (blue cheese) crumbles 1 head iceberg lettuce, cored and cut into quarter wedges ¼ cup thinly sliced red onions 4 slices crispy bacon, chopped 1 cup diced tomatoes 2 tablespoons chopped italian parsley in a small bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, sour cream, sriracha, mayonnaise, garlic, lemon juice, and lemon zest. stir in a few pinches of kosher salt and black pepper until combined before mixing in the cheese. cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. place the 4 lettuce wedges on separate plates. take the sriracha bleu cheese dressing from the fridge. stir the dressing and drizzle a few spoonfuls over each wedge. top each wedge with the sliced red onions, bacon, diced tomatoes and italian parsley. enjoy! when i used to live in san jose, i used to go to a spot called the sonoma chicken coop quite often. they had a pretty extensive menu with affordable prices…and the food was consistent. i used to always rotate between their skillet chicken carbonara, rotisserie chickens and whatever specials they were offering for the day. yet, despite all of that goodness what i miss the most is their citrus grove salad. essentially, it was a big ol’ plate of mixed greens, avocados, mangos, and various citrus fruits. but man was it delicious! and there wasn’t even any meat!!! which is a big deal for this carnivorous gal. since i’m no longer in the bay area (and because i heard that many of their locations are now closed… #sadpanda), i like to make my own variation from time to time especially when summer fruits are wonderfully sweet like they have been as of late. i like to use whatever leafy greens i have on hand. i used baby spinach in the pics shown here but an arugula kale mix would be lovely. i top the greens with slices of sweet mango, avocados cucumbers, kiwis, and pink grapefruit. in addition to all of that goodness, i add some goat cheese crumbles for a bit of richness and toasted macadamia nuts for a bit of crunch. then the whole thing gets a drizzle of a sesame ginger dressing that i shake up in a mason jar. the end results in an incredibly bright and light dish that can be served as an appetizer or even a main course. but if you’re wanting something a tad heartier, some grilled prawns, chicken, or grilled fish on top of the salad would really send things to the next level. with that friends…have a wonderful week and enjoy the last few weeks of summer! ________________________________________________________ tropical summer salad with sesame ginger dressing serves 2 ingredients: 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, roughly crushed 1 tablespoon finely minced shallots 1 garlic clove, finely minced ½ inch knob ginger, finely grated 1 heaping tablespoon dijon mustard 1 tablespoon honey or agave 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar ½ cup extra virgin olive oil 2 3 pinches red pepper flakes 2 pinches black pepper, plus more to plate 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt 5 cups greens (spinach, arugula, romaine, kale etc.) ½ small ripe mango, peeled and sliced ½ small pink grapefruit, “supremed” 1 small kiwi, peeled and sliced 3 inch piece of cucumber, peeled and sliced 1 small avocado, peeled and sliced 3 ounces goat cheese, crumbled ¼ cup toasted macadamia nuts prepare the dressing. in a jar, add the sesame seeds, shallots, garlic, ginger, mustard, honey, vinegar, olive oil, red pepper flakes, pepper and salt. secure the lid tightly on the jar and shake vigorously for a minute until the items have combined and emulsified. taste and adjust with salt and pepper as needed. set aside. divide the greens between two large plates. top each plate with the mangos, grapefruit supremes, kiwis, cucumbers, avocados, goat cheese and nuts. drizzle 2 3 tablespoons of the sesame ginger dressing over each plate and serve. y’all know what today is? national watermelon day! i swear i can’t make this stuff up. my hallmark calendar on the wall says it is  so it must be true. and since i’m all about celebrating holidays, i wanted to share this delectable and light little number with you… watermelon, feta and arugula salad. this type of salad appears to be all the rage this summer as i’ve seen various renditions all over the place. and how could it not be? peppery arugula leaves mixed with sweet watermelon cubes and piquant flavors of feta cheese. when we made this for our june’s sunday family dinner, i opted to dress the greens with a mint honey dijon vinaigrette but it would also pair nicely with a thick balsamic reduction and extra virgin olive oil. need a couple other ways you could celebrate national watermelon day? how about toasting the day with these bright watermelon soju tinis? they are the perfect cocktail for warm summer nights. want something booze free? then these watermelon basil aguas frescas would be fantastic! and if you’re looking for extra points, freeze some of it to make popsicles for your munchkins. bright, refreshing, and you know exactly what’s in it. and with that dear friends, have a wonderful week and have a delicious national watermelon day! _____________________________________________________ watermelon, feta and arugula salad serves 6 ingredients: 1 tablespoon finely minced shallots 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint 1 heaping tablespoon dijon mustard 1 teaspoon honey or agave 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar ½ cup extra virgin olive oil 2 pinches black pepper, plus more to plate 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt 5 6 cups baby arugula leaves, washed and thoroughly dried ¼ cup thinly sliced red onions 15 20 fresh mint leaves, roughly torn 3 cups cubed seedless watermelon 10 ounces feta cheese, crumbled prepare the vinaigrette. in a jar, add the shallots, mint, mustard, honey, vinegar, olive oil, pepper and salt. secure the lid tightly on the jar and shake vigorously for a minute until the items have combined and emulsified. taste and adjust with salt and pepper as needed. place the arugula, red onions and torn mint leaves in a large bowl. drizzle a few spoons of the vinaigrette over the greens and toss well. try not to overdress the greens as it will wilt and become too soggy. plate the dressed greens on a large platter. top with the watermelon cubes and feta cheese. sprinkle the platter with additional black pepper and serve. guys… i moved to việt nam. okay, not really. but i swear, san diego these past few weeks have been as hot and humid as south east asia in the dead of summer! i’m melting!!! and turning on the oven or kitchen burners has been the last thing i’ve wanted to do. but a girl has got to eat and the lighter and easier the dish the better! quick and light bites like this vegetarian soba noodle salad is the perfect remedy to combat the heat. soba (buckwheat) noodles tossed with fresh veggies in a bright and acidic ponzu sauce is easy to make and doesn’t leave you feeling like gazillion pounds. i opted for a vegetarian take but if you miss the meat, throw in such grilled chicken or shrimp and you’ll be a happy camper. now excuse me as i pass out in front of the air conditioner. __________________________________________ vegetarian soba noodle salad serves 2 vinaigrette: 2 tablespoons prepared ponzu sauce 1 tablespoon low sodium soy sauce 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil 3 tablespoons canola oil (or other light flavored oil) 2 tablespoons honey ½ tablespoon sambal paste 1 large garlic clove, finely minced 2 teaspoons finely minced fresh garlic kosher salt black pepper 6 ounces dried soba noodles 1 heaping cup sweet peppers, thinly sliced 1 cup blanched edamame beans 1 cup blanched asparagus tips 1 cup sweet grape tomatoes, halved ½ cup thinly sliced japanese cucumbers (or other small cucumbers of your preference) ¼ cup sliced scallions 1/8 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds prepare the vinaigrette by whisking all the ingredients in a small bowl. season with additional kosher salt and black pepper as needed. bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook soba noodles for 3 4 minutes or accordingly to package instructions. drain the soba in a colander and rinse well with cool water. shake off excess water and transfer to a bowl. add all the vegetables to the noodles, except the scallions. add several spoons of the vinaigrette over the noodles and vegetables and toss well. add additional vinaigrette as needed for everything to be lightly coated. divide the contents between two serving dishes. top each plate with scallions, sesame seeds and enjoy! dear summer, please don’t ever leave. i love how you bring the bright, radiant sun out to warm us. i love how you encourage me to wear flip flops every day (even to work). and i love how you bring out the incredible sweetness and intense flavor to stone fruits. it makes me want to eat them all the time! nectarines, peaches, plums, pluots….oh, the endless possibilities! and summer, you also inspire me to eat light and fresh dishes. so i decided to take your hint and threw some delectable stone fruits into some greens. a salad filled with all types of mixed greens to give that peppery verdant flavor, a needed savory element with the thin prosciutto slices, a salty & nutty profile from the parmesan cheese and much needed texture from the chopped pistachio nuts. i don’t even bother with a vinaigrette. instead, i opt for a bit of freshly squeezed lemon juice for acidity and a drizzle of evoo for that needed richness. divine. so autumn, please push the snooze button a few more times to allow my summer to stay a bit longer. xoxo. ______________________________________ stone fruit & prosciutto salad serves 1 ingredients: 2 cups mixed greens (arugula, romaine, baby spinach, etc) ¼ cup sliced peaches ¼ cup sliced nectarines ¼ cup sliced plums or pluots 2 thin slices prosciutto, torn into pieces 1 tablespoon roughly chopped pistachio nuts 1 ounces parmesan cheese shavings juice of 1 lemon wedge 1 tablespoon quality extra virgin olive oil 2 pinches kosher salt 2 pinches coarse black pepper plate the first seven items on a serving dish. squeeze the lemon juice over the plate, followed by the drizzling of olive oil. season with the kosher salt and black pepper. enjoy! i made a rainbow. well….a huge salad that looked like a rainbow. and the thing is….i wasn’t intending to write about it but after i assembled everything, i said to myself: “damn. that is a good looking bowl o’ goodness.” so here it is. my cobb salad. nothing crazy, nothing shocking but darn delicious. and like all great foodies and nutritionists will tell ya  each meal should cover the rainbow. __________________________________ cobb salad serves 2 ingredients: vinaigrette 1 tablespoon finely minced shallots 1 garlic clove, finely minced 2 tablespoons finely minced parsley 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 heaping teaspoon dijon mustard 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/8 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt salad 5 cups roughly chopped romaine lettuce 1 cup arugula leaves 1/2 cup diced cucumbers 1 small avocado, diced 1/2 cup diced bell peppers (i like to use orange and yellow peppers) 1/2 cup grape tomatoes, sliced in half 1 cup diced grilled chicken 1/4 cup thinly sliced red onions 1/4 cup blue cheese crumbles 3 crispy bacon strips, roughly chopped 2 hard boiled eggs, sliced in a bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients of the vinaigrette. taste and add more kosher salt and black pepper as needed. (i also like to add the ingredients into a mason jar and shake it up it’s a wonderful alternative to emulsify the vinaigrette but it serves as the perfect storage vessel for the remaining dressing.) in a large bowl, add the romaine lettuce and arugula. add enough of the vinaigrette to lightly coat the greens. toss to evenly cover and plate between two bowls. divide the remaining ingredients between the two bowls. serve additional vinaigrette alongside each bowl. enjoy! larb (also often spelled as laap or laab) has been one of my favorite thai dishes for a long time. it essentially translates to “minced meat salad” and can be made from a variety of different proteins   pork, beef, chicken, fish, duck, etc. the word larb means “to chop up” in thai. that’s right folks authentic larb aficionados use a cleaver to chop/mince their proteins until they reach the perfect consistency. but truthfully, i’m a tad lazy and use pre ground pork/chicken/turkey. andy ricker, chef and author of pok pok does a beautiful job narrating his adventures of thai cuisine and does an infinitely superior job of explaining the nuances of larb than i ever could. in a nutshell, there are two different schools of larb   the northern thai version and northeastern thai (isaan) version. i gravitate towards the isaan style that is heavily laden with citrus and toasted rice powder. the northern style also uses various proteins and herbs but often includes pork/beef blood. i’m obsessed with isaan style larb because it’s truly a flavor explosion (i’m so cheesy). it’s incredibly savory with the garlic, shallots, fish sauce……bright and aromatic from the tons of citrus & fresh herbs…..and rather “earthy” from the toasted rice powder. whether you eat it with sticky rice or as lettuce wraps, larb has multiple layers of texture, especially when you take intermittent bites of fresh cucumber slices, cabbage or fresh chiles. my version isn’t totally authentic but it definitely is my homage to the original and can be whipped up in about 20 minutes. not bad at all when you need a quick bite and its lightness is perfect for a warm summer meal. _________________________________________ ingredients: 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon warm water 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice, divided 3 tablespoons fish sauce, divided 1 tablespoon minced thai chiles, divided 3 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/4 cup minced shallots 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1/2 teaspoon red chili flakes 1 pound ground pork 2 scallions, chopped 1 heaping tablespoon toasted rice powder* 1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced 1 cup fresh mint leaves, roughly torn 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves, roughly torn 1 cup fresh thai basil leaves, roughly torn accoutrements: extra fresh herbs, lime wedges, cabbage, lettuce leaves, cucumber slices, steamed rice in a bowl, create the sauce by whisking together the sugar and warm water until dissolved. add in 2 tablespoons lime juice, 2 tablespoons fish sauce and 1/2 teaspoon minced chiles (more to taste). set the sauce aside. heat the vegetable oil in a wok or large skillet over medium low heat. add the shallots, garlic and cook for 1 minute. add 1/4 teaspoon minced chiles (more to taste), red chili flakes and cook for an additional 30 seconds. increase the heat to medium high and add in the pork. using a wooden spoon, stir the pork around the wok/skillet while breaking it apart to a crumbled consistency. cook the pork until it is no longer pink, approximately 3 4 minutes. stir in the remaining fish sauce and scallions. remove the wok/skillet from the heat. toss in the rice powder, remaining lime juice, red onions, mint, cilantro, and basil. stir in a few spoonfuls of the sauce to taste. plate the larb with extra fresh herbs, whole chiles, lime wedges, sliced cucumbers, lettuce and cabbage. serve with either steamed rice or whole lettuce leaves for wraps. the remaining sauce can be served alongside as a dipping sauce. *if you cannot find pre ground toasted rice powder, you can easily make your own. toast uncooked jasmine rice in a skillet over low heat until golden brown. once cooled, transfer the toasted rice into a spice grinder and grind until you get a fine powder. i’ve received a bunch of recipe inquiries about the salad we gobbled up during our last family dinner. and i can’t blame ya because it was dee lish! my niece and seester prepared the dish using ina garten’s recipe for a middle eastern vegetable salad and it was a winner! it packed a huge punch of flavor from the abundance of herbs, feta cheese and citrus. it was extremely bright and would be a fab dish to enjoy on a warm day with a glass of pinot grigio and chunk of freshly baked bread. mmmmm! we didn’t have fresh basil on hand and ended up omitting it. truth be told, i didn’t really miss it but i’m sure it would be wonderful with it. oh that ina…..she knocks it out of the park again! think she needs a new bestie in the form of a quirky vietnamese gal? _____________________________________ middle eastern vegetable salad serves 6 ingredients: pour the dressing over the salad, tossing gently to coat all the vegetables. add the feta, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss gently. more times than not, i’ve got a lot to say about everything. and when it comes to food  fuggedaboutit! but then there are times when i take a bite of something and there are really just no words needed. like with this spicy crab and avocado salad. mmmmmmm!!!!!! tons of sweet lump crab meat, paired with the creaminess of avocado, a slight crunch from the serranos and a kick of spice. perfection! okay, okay. maybe i do have a few words but trust me, one bite and you’ll know exactly what i mean. by the way, in case you’re wondering why do i call this a “crab salad”? well…the same reason why they call chicken salad, “chicken salad”. and yes, i may be trying to avert the question. 🙂 laters! ____________________________________ spicy crab and avocado salad serves 2 ingredients: 5 ounces cooked lump crab meat 1 scallion, diced 1 teaspoon finely minced serrano pepper 1 tablespoon mayonnaise 1 teaspoon hot sauce ½ tablespoon lime juice ¼ teaspoon old bay seasonings kosher salt and pepper to taste 1 large avocado, halved and seeded garnish with chives and additional old bay seasonings in a bowl, gently combine the crab, scallion, serrano pepper, mayonnaise, hot sauce, lime juice and old bay seasonings. taste and season with additional salt and pepper. refrigerate the crab mixture for 30 minutes. spoon half of the crab mixture into each of the avocado halves. sprinkle with a dash of old bay seasonings and top with chives. enjoy! ever had gỏi? gỏi is a general term for “salads” in vietnamese and can come in all forms using a variety of ingredients. lately, my favorite gỏi utilizes thinly sliced banana blossoms. i combine it with grilled proteins, pink grapefruit, creamy avocados, a ton of herbs and a healthy douse of nước chấm “vinaigrette”. it’s absolutely delicious and epitomizes the balance in vietnamese cuisines. if you’ve never used banana blossoms before, they can be somewhat tricky the first time around. it’s best to remove the outer few petals as they’re quite tough (though you can save them as garnish), use a really sharp knife so you can get thin slices, and be sure to soak the cut blossoms in cold water that has been mixed with some type of acid citrus juice or vinegar does the trick. the later helps removes some of that chalky flavor that the banana blossoms can sometimes have. and although it sounds a bit laborious it’s totally worth it and delicious! and now to announce the winner of a fabulous nambe pasta cradle bowl  drum roll please…………. congrats serena kim who said she would serve shrimp pesto pasta in the nambé bowl. sounds yummy and will look gorgeous in your new bowl! serena, we’ll be sending you an email shortly so we can get your new nambé artwork shipped out. thank you to everyone who participated! and thank you nambé ! _______________________________________________ gỏi bắp chuối (vietnamese banana blossom salad) serves 4 6 ingredients: nước chấm (sauce): ¼ cup fish sauce ¼ cup fresh lime juice ¼ cup granulated sugar 2 tablespoons cold water 1 teaspoon fresh garlic, finely minced chili paste, to taste gỏi (salad): 1½ cups chicken breast, grilled and shredded 1½ cups prawns, shelled and grilled 2 medium sized avocadoes, cubed 1 cup ruby red grapefruit segments 4 cups banana blossoms, julienned ¼ cup loosely packed fresh vietnamese mint (rau răm), chopped 3 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped 1½ tablespoon fresh mint, chopped 1 cup rice wine vinegar ¼ cup fried shallots ¼ cup roasted peanuts, crushed cold water black pepper to taste prepare the sauce. in a medium sized bowl, stir the sugar and water together until completely dissolved. add the remaining sauce ingredients and stir until combined. set aside. fill a large bowl with cold water and add the rice wine vinegar. peel off the dark colored and tough outer leaves of the banana blossom. use a sharp knife or mandolin to julienne the blossoms. you can either discard the “baby bananas” or chop them up finely. submerge the banana blossoms into the bowl of water/vinegar after they have been julienne. allow the banana blossoms to sit in the vinegar water for 15 20 minutes. in a large bowl, add the shredded chicken, prawns, avocados, herbs, and freshly cracked black pepper. add a few spoonfuls of the sauce until the items are lightly coated. drain the banana blossoms from the vinegar water and squeeze out any excess liquids. add banana blossoms to the other ingredients and spoon in some additional sauce. gently toss the salad with the fried shallots and plate. sprinkle the top with crushed peanuts and serve. email address: sign me up!

glossary for many diners, the restaurant menu can present a confusing and intimidating barrier to the pleasures of dining out. the french language, of course, is no help with so many sound alike words. it is so easy to confuse tourteau (crab) with tortue (turtle), ail (garlic) with aile (a poultry wing), chevreau (young goat) with chevreuil (venison).the variety of fish and shellfish found in france’s waters can be equally confusing, particularly when one is faced with a multitude of regional or local names given to each species. the large, meaty monkfish, for example, might be called baudroie, lotte, or gigot de mer; depending upon the region or the whim of the chef.in preparing this glossary, i have tried to limit the list to contemporary terms, making this a practical guide for today’s traveler in france. translations are generally offered for those dishes, foods, and menus, in markets, expressions or terms phrases one is most likely to encounter on menus and in shops. i have also added regional terms one might not find explained elsewhere. a point: cooked medium rare.abat(s): organ meat(s).abati(s): giblet(s) of poultry or game fowl.abbacchio: young lamb, specialty of corsica.abondance: firm thick wheel of cow’s milk cheese from the savoie, a département in the alps.abricot: apricot.acacia: the acacia tree, the blossoms of which are used for making fritters; also honey made from the blossom. achatine: land snail, or escargot, imported from china and indonesia; less prized than other varieties.addition: bill.affamé: starving.affinage: process of aging cheese.affiné: aged, as with cheese.agneau (de lait): lamb (young, milk fed).agneau chilindron: sauté of lamb with potatoes and garlic, specialty of the basque country.agneau de pauillac: breed of lamb from the southwest.agnelet: baby milk fed lamb.agnelle: ewe lamb.agrume(s): citrus fruit(s).aïado: roast lamb shoulder stuffed with parsley, chervil, and garlic.aiglefin: aigrefin, églefin: small fresh haddock, a type of cod.aïgo bouido: garlic soup, served with oil, over slices of bread; a specialty of provence.aïgo saou: “water salt” in provençal; a fish soup that includes, of course, water and salt, plus a mixture of small white fish, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, garlic, herbs, and olive oil; specialty of provence.aigre: bitter; sour.aigre doux: sweet and sour.aigrelette, sauce: a type of tart sauce.aiguillette: a long, thin slice of poultry, meat, or fish. also, top part of beef rump.ail: garlic.ail des ours: (allium ursinum) wild garlic   also known as ramsons, buckrams, broad leaved garlic, wood garlic, bear leek or bear's garlicaile: wing of poultry or game bird.aile et cuisse: used to describe white breast meat (aile) and dark thigh meat (cuisse), usually of chicken.aillade: garlic sauce; also, dishes based on garlic.aillé: with garlic.aillet: shoot of mild winter baby garlic, a specialty of the poitou charentes region along the atlantic coast.aïoli, ailloli: garlic mayonnaise. also, salt cod, hard cooked eggs, boiled snails, and vegetables served with garlic mayonnaise; specialty of provence.airelle: wild cranberry.aisy cendré: thick disc of cow’s milk cheese, washed with eau de vie and patted with wood ashes; also called cendre d’aisy: a specialty of burgundy.albuféra: béchamel sauce with sweet peppers, prepared with chicken stock instead of milk; classic sauce for poultry.algue(s): seaweed.aligot: mashed potatoes with tomme (the fresh curds used in making cantal cheese) and garlic; specialty of the auvergne.alisier, alizier: eau de vie with the taste of bitter almonds, made with the wild red serviceberries that grow in the forests of alsace.allumette: “match”; puff pastry strips; also fried matchstick potatoes.alose: shad, a spring river fish plentiful in the loire and gironde rivers.alouette: lark.aloyau: loin area of beef; beef sirloin, butcher’s cut that includes the rump and contre filet.alsacienne, à l’: in the style of alsace, often including sauerkraut, sausage, or foie gras.amande: almond.amande de mer: smooth shelled shellfish, like a small clam, with a sweet, almost almond flavor.amandine: with almonds.ambroisie: ambrosia.amer: bitter; as in unsweetened chocolate.américaine, amoricaine: sauce of white wine, cognac, tomatoes, and butter.ami du chambertin: “friend of chambertin wine”; moist and buttery short cylinder of cow’s milk cheese with a rust colored rind, made near the village of gevrey chambertin in burgundy. similar to époisses cheese.amourette(s): spinal bone marrow of calf or ox.amuse bouche or amuse gueule: “amuse the mouth”; appetizer.ananas: pineapple.anchoïade: sauce that is a blend of olive oil, anchovies, and garlic, usually served with raw vegeta bles; specialty of provence; also, paste of anchovies and garlic, spread on toast.anchois (de collioure): anchovy (prized salt cured anchovy from collioure, a port town near the spanish border of the languedoc), fished in the atlantic and the mediterranean.ancienne, à l’: in the old style.andouille: large smoked chitterling (tripe) sausage, usually served cold.andouillette: small chitterling (tripe) sausage, usually served grilled.aneth: dill.ange à cheval: “angel on horseback”; grilled bacon wrapped oyster.anglaise, à l’: english style, plainly cooked.anguille (au vert): eel; (poached in herb sauce).anis: anise or aniseed.anis étoilé: star anise; also called badiane.aoc: see appellation d’origine contrôlée.apéritif: a before dinner drink that stimulates the appetite, usually somewhat sweet or mildly bitter.appellation d’origine contrôlée (aoc): specific definition of a particular cheese, butter, fruit, wine, or poultry   once passed down from generation to generation, now recognized by law   regulating the animal breed or variety of fruit, the zone of production, production techniques, composition of the product, its physical characteristics, and its specific attributes.arachide (huile d’; pâté d’): peanut (oil; butter).araignée de mer: spider crab.arbousier (miel d’): trailing arbutus, small evergreen shrubby tree of the heather family, also called strawberry tree, ground laurel and madrona tree with strawberry like fruit dotted with tiny bumps; (honey of). used for making liqueurs, jellies, and jams.arc en ciel (truite): rainbow (trout).ardennaise, à l’: in the style of the ardennes, a département in northern france; generally a dish with juniper berries.ardi gasna: basque name for sheep’s milk cheese.ardoise: blackboard; bistros often use a blackboard to list specialties in place of a printed menu.arête: fish bone.arlésienne, à l’: in the style of arles, a town in provence; with tomatoes, onions, eggplant, potatoes, rice, and sometimes olives.armagnac: brandy from the armagnac area of southwestern france.aromate: aromatic herb, vegetable, or flavoring.arômes à la gêne: generic name for a variety of tangy, lactic cheeses of the lyon area that have been steeped in gêne, or dry marc, the dried grape skins left after grapes are pressed for wine. can be of cow’s milk, goat’s milk, or a mixture.arosé(e): sprinkled, basted, moistened with liquid.arpajon: a town in the ile de france; dried bean capital of france; a dish containing dried beans.artichaut (violet): artichoke (small purple) (camus) snub nosed.artichaut à la barigoule: in original form, artichokes cooked with mushrooms and oil; also, artichoke stuffed with ham, onion, and garlic, browned in oil with onions and bacon, then cooked in water or white wine; specialty of provence.asperge (violette): asparagus (purple tipped asparagus, a specialty of the côte d’azur).assaisonné: seasoned; seasoned with.assiette anglaise: assorted cold meats, usually served as a first course.assiette de pêcheur: assorted fish platter.assoiffé: parched, thirsty.assorti(e): assorted.aubergine: eggplant.aulx: plural of ail (garlic).aumônière: “beggar’s purse”; thin crêpe, filled and tied like a bundle.aurore: tomato and cream sauce.auvergnat(e): in the style of the auvergne; often with cabbage, sausage, and bacon.aveline: hazelnut or filbert, better known as noisette.avocat: avocado.avoine: oat.axoa: a dish of ground veal, onions, and the local fresh chilies, piment d’espelette; specialty of the basque region.azyme, pain: unleavened bread; matzo. baba au rhum: sponge cake soaked in rum syrup.badiane: star anise.baeckeoffe, baekaoffa, backaofa, backenoff: “baker’s oven”; stew of wine, beef, lamb, pork, potatoes, and onions; specialty of alsace.bagna caudà: sauce of anchovies, olive oil, and garlic, for dipping raw vegetables; specialty of nice.baguette: “wand”; classic long, thin loaf of bread.baguette au levain or à l’ancienne: sourdough baguette.baie: berry.baie rose: pink peppercorn.baigné: bathed.ballotine: usually poultry boned, stuffed, and rolled.banane: banana.banon: village in the alps of provence, source of dried chestnut leaves traditionally used to wrap goat cheese, which was washed with eau de vie and aged for several months; today refers to various goat’s milk cheese or mixed goat  and cow’s milk cheese from the region, sometimes wrapped in fresh green or dried brown chestnut leaves and tied with raffia.bar: ocean fish, known as loup on the mediterranean coast, louvine or loubine in the southwest, and barreau in brittany; similar to sea bass.barbouillade: stuffed eggplant, or an eggplant stew; also, a combination of beans and artichokes.barbue: brill, a flatfish related to turbot, found in the atlantic and the mediterranean.barder: to cover poultry or meat with strips of uncured bacon, to add moisture while cooking.baron: hindquarters of lamb, including both legs.barquette: “small boat”; pastry shaped like a small boat.basilic: basil.basquaise, à la: basque style; usually with ham or tomatoes or red peppers.bâtard, pain: “bastard bread”; traditional long, thin white loaf, larger than a baguette.batavia: salad green, a broad, flat leafed lettuce.bâton: small white wand of bread, smaller than a baguette.bâtonnet: garnish of vegetables cut into small sticks.baudroie: in provence, the name for monkfish or anglerfish, the large, firm fleshed ocean fish also known as lotte and gigot de mer; also a specialty of provence, a fish soup that includes potatoes, onions, fresh mushrooms, garlic, fresh or dried orange zest, artichokes, tomatoes, and herbs.bavaroise: cold dessert; a rich custard made with cream and gelatin.bavette: skirt steak.baveuse: “drooling”; method of cooking an omelet so that it remains moist and juicy.béarnaise: tarragon flavored sauce of egg yolks, butter, shallots, white wine, vinegar, and herbs.béatille: “tidbit”; dish combining various organ meats.bécasse: small bird, a woodcock.bécassine: small bird, a snipe.béchamel: white sauce, made with butter, flour, and milk, usually flavored with onion, bay leaf, pepper, and nutmeg.beignet: fritter or doughnut.beignet de fleur de courgette: batter fried zucchini blossom; native to provence and the mediterranean, now popular all over france.belle hélène (poire): classic dessert of chilled poached fruit (pear), served on ice cream and topped with hot chocolate sauce.bellevue, en: classic presentation of whole fish, usually in aspic on a platter.belon: river in brittany identified with a prized flat shelled (plate) oyster.belondines: brittany creuses, or crinkle shelled oysters that are affinées or finished off in the belon river.berawecka, bierewecke, bireweck, birewecka: dense, moist christmas fruit bread stuffed with dried pears, figs, and nuts; specialty of kaysersberg, a village in alsace.bercy: fish stock based sauce thickened with flour and butter and flavored with white wine and shallots.bergamot (thé a la bergamote): name for both a variety of orange and of pear; (earl grey tea).berrichonne: garnish of bruised cabbage, glazed baby onions, chestnuts, and lean bacon named for the old province of berry.betterave: beet.beurre: butter.blanc: classic reduced sauce of vinegar; white wine, shallots, and butter.cru: raw cream butter.de montpellier: classic butter sauce seasoned with olive oil, herbs, garlic, and anchovies.demi sel: butter (lightly salted).des charentes: finest french butter, from the region of poitou charentes along the atlantic coast.du cru: butter given the appellation d’origine contrôlée pedigree.echiré: brand of the finest french butter, preferred by french chefs, with an aoc pedigree, from the region of poitou charentes along the atlantic coast.noir: sauce of browned butter, lemon juice or vinegar, parsley, and sometimes capers; tradi tionally served with raie, or skate.noisette: lightly browned butter.vierge: whipped butter sauce with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.bibelskäs, bibbelskäse: fresh cheese seasoned with horseradish, herbs, and spices; specialty of alsace.biche: female deer.bien cuit(e): cooked well done.bière (en bouteille, à la pression): beer (bottled, on tap).bifteck: steak.bigarade: orange sauce.biggareau: red firm fleshed variety of cherry.bigorneau: periwinkle, tiny sea snail.bigoudène, à la: in the style of bigouden, a province in brittany; (pommes) baked slices of unpeeled potato; (ragôut) sausage stewed with bacon and potato.billy bi, billy by: cream of mussel soup, specialty of the atlantic coast.biologique: organic.biscuit à la cuillère: ladyfinger.bistrotier: bistro owner.blanc (de poireau): white portion (of leek).blanc (de volaille): usually breast (of chicken).blanc manger: chilled pudding of almond milk with gelatin.blanquette: classic mild stew of poached veal, lamb, chicken, or seafood, enriched with an egg and cream white sauce; supposedly a dish for convalescents.blé (noir): wheat (buckwheat).blette, bette: swiss chard.bleu: “blue”; cooked rare, usually for steak. see also truite au bleu.bleu d’auvergne: a strong, firm, and moist flattened cylinder of blue veined cheese made from cow’s milk in the auvergne, sold wrapped in foil; still made on some farms. bleu de bresse: a cylinder of mild blue veined cow’s milk cheese from the bresse area in the rhône alps region; industrially made.bleu de gex: thick, savory blue veined disc of cow’s milk cheese from the jura; made in only a handful of small dairies in the département of the ain.bleu des causses: a firm, pungent, flat cylinder of blue veined cow’s milk cheese, cured in cellars similar to those used in making roquefort.blini: small thick pancake, usually eaten with caviar.boeuf à la ficelle: beef tied with string and poached in broth.boeuf à la mode: beef marinated and braised in red wine, served with carrots, mushrooms, onions, and turnips.boeuf gros sel: boiled beef, served with vegetables and coarse salt.bohémienne, à la: gypsy style; with rice, tomatoes, onions, sweet peppers, and paprika, in various combinations.boisson (non) comprise: drink (not) included.bolet: type of wild boletus mushroom. see cèpe.bombe: molded, layered ice cream dessert.bonbon: candy or sweet.bon chrétien: “good christian”; a variety of pear, also known as poire william’s.bondon: small cylinder of delicately flavored, mushroomy cow’s milk cheese made in the neufchâtel area in normandy.bonite: a tuna, or oceanic bonito.bonne femme (cuisine): meat garnish of bacon, potatoes, mushrooms, and onions; fish garnish of shallots, parsley, mushrooms, and potatoes; or white wine sauce with shallots, mushrooms, and lemon juice; (home style cooking).bordelaise: bordeaux style; also refers to a brown sauce of shallots, red wine, and bone marrow.bouchée: “tiny mouthful”; may refer to a bite size pastry or to a vol au vent.boudouses: literally, to pout; tiny oysters from brittany that refuse to grow to normal size; iodine rich and prized.bouchoteur: mussel fisherman; a dish containing mussels.boudin: technically a meat sausage, but generically any sausage shaped mixture.boudin blanc: white sausage of veal, chicken, or pork.boudin noir: pork blood sausage.bouillabaisse: popular mediterranean fish soup, most closely identified with marseille, ideally prepared with the freshest local fish, preferably rockfish. traditionally might include dozens of different fish, but today generally includes the specifically local rascasse (scorpion fish), saint pierre (john dory), fiéla (conger eel), galinette (gurnard or grondin), vive (weever), and baudroie (monkfish) cooked in a broth of water, olive oil, onions, garlic, tomatoes, parsley, and saffron. the fish is served separately from the broth, which is poured over garlic rubbed toast, and seasoned with rouille which is stirred into the broth. varied additions include boiled potatoes, orange peel, fennel, and shellfish. expensive shellfish are often added in restaurant versions, but this practice is considered inauthentic.bouilliture: eel stew with red wine and prunes; specialty of the poitou charentes on the atlantic coast.bouillon: stock or broth.boulangère, à la: in the style of the “baker’s wife”; meat or poultry baked or braised with onions and potatoes.boule: “ball”; a large round loaf of white bread, also known as a miche.boule de picoulat: meatball from languedoc, combining beef, pork, garlic, and eggs, traditionally served with cooked white beans.boulette d’avesnes: pepper and tarragon flavored cheese, made from visually defective maroilles, formed into a cone, and colored red with paprika; named for avesnes, a village in the north.bouquet: large reddish shrimp. see also crevette rose.bouquet garni: typically fresh whole parsley bay leaf and thyme tied together with string and tucked into stews; the package is removed prior to serving.bouquetière: garnished with bouquets of vegetables.bourdaloue: hot poached fruit, sometimes wrapped in pastry often served with vanilla custard; often pear.bourgeoise, à la: with carrots, onions, braised lettuce, celery, and bacon.bourguignonne, à la: burgundy style; often with red wine, onions, mushrooms, and bacon.bouribot: spicy red wine duck stew.bourride: a mediterranean fish soup that generally includes a mixture of small white fish, onions, tomatoes, garlic, herbs, and olive oil, thickened with egg yolks and aïoli (garlic mayonnaise); there are many variations.bourriole: rye flour pancake, both sweet and savory; specialty of the auvergne.boutargue, poutargue: salty paste prepared from dried mullet or tuna roe, mashed with oil; specialty of provence.bouton de culotte: “trouser button”; tiny buttons of goat cheese from the lyon area; traditionally made on farms, aged until rock hard and pungent; today found in many forms, from soft and young to hard and brittle.braiser: to braise; to cook meat by browning in fat, then simmering in covered dish with small amount of liquid.branche, en: refers to whole vegetables or herbs.brandade (de morue): a warm garlicky purée (of salt cod) with milk or cream or oil, and sometimes mashed potatoes; specialty of provence; currently used to denote a variety of flavored mashed potato dishes.brassado: a doughnut that is boiled, then baked, much like a bagel; specialty of provence.brayaude, gigot: leg of lamb studded with garlic, cooked in white wine, and served with red beans, braised cabbage, or chestnuts.brebis (fromage de): sheep (sheep’s milk cheese).brési (breuzi): smoked, salted, and dried beef from the jura.bretonne, à la: in the style of brittany; a dish served with white beans; or may refer to a white wine sauce with carrots, leeks, and celery.bretzel: a pretzel; specialty of alsace.brie de meaux: “king of cheese,” the flat wheel of cheese made only with raw cow’s milk and aged at least four weeks; from meaux, just east of paris; brie made with pasteurized milk does not have the right to be called brie de meaux.brie de melun: smaller than brie de meaux, another raw cow’s milk cheese, aged at least one month, with a crackly rust colored rind.brillat savarin: (1755 1826) famed gastronome, coiner of food aphorisms, and author of the physiology of taste; the high fat, supple cow’s milk cheese from normandy is named for him.brioche: buttery egg enriched yeast bread.brocciu: soft, young, sheep’s milk cheese from corsica.broche, à la: spit roasted.brochet(on): freshwater pike (small pike).brochette: cubes of meat or fish and vegetables on a skewer.brocoli: broccolibrouet: old term for soup.brouillade: a mixture of ingredients as in a stew or soup; also, scrambled eggs.brouillé(s): scrambled, usually eggs.brousse: a very fresh and unsalted (thus bland) sheep’s  or goat’s milk cheese, not unlike italian ricotta; specialty of nice and marseille.broutard: young goat.brugnon: nectarine.brûlé(e): “burned”; usually refers to caramelization.brunoise: tiny diced vegetables.brut: very dry or sugarless, particularly in reference to champagne.buccin: large sea snail or whelk, also called bulot.bûche de noël: christmas cake shaped like a log (bûche), a sponge cake often flavored with chest nuts and chocolate.buffet froid: variety of dishes served cold, sometimes from a buffet.bugne: deep fried yeast dough fritter or doughnut dusted with confectioner's sugar; popular in and around lyon before easter.buisson: “bush”; generally a dish including vegetables arranged like a bush; classically a crayfish pre sentation.bulot: large sea snail or whelk, also called buccin.buron: traditional hut where cheese is made in the auvergne mountains. cabécou(s): small, round goat’s milk cheese from the southwest, sometimes made with a mix of goat’s and cow’s milk.cabillaud: fresh codfish, also currently called morue: known as doguette in the north, bakalua in the basque region, eglefin in provence.cabri: young goat.cacahouète, cacahouette, cacachuète: prepared peanut  roasted, dry roasted, or salted. a raw peanut is arachide.cacao: cocoa; powdered cocoa.cachat: a very strong goat cheese; generally a blend of various ends of leftover cheese, mixed with seasonings that might include salt, pepper, brandy and garlic, and aged in a crock; specialty of provence.caen, à la mode de: in the style of caen, a town in normandy; a dish cooked in calvados and white wine and/or cider.café: coffee, as well as a type of eating place where coffee is served.allongé: weakened espresso, often served with a small pitcher of hot water so clients may thin the coffee themselves.au lait or crème: espresso with warmed or steamed milk.déca or décaféiné: decaffeinated coffee.express: plain black espresso.faux: decaffeinated coffee.filtre: filtered american style coffee (not available at all cafés).glacé: iced coffee.liégeois: iced coffee served with ice cream (optional) and whipped cream; also coffee ice cream with whipped cream.noir: plain black espresso.noisette: espresso with tiny amount of milk.serré: extra strong espresso, made with half the normal amount of water.caféine: caffeine.cagouille: on the atlantic coast, name for small petit gris land snail, or escargot.caille: quail.caillé: clotted or curdled; curds of milk.caillette: round pork sausage including chopped spinach or swiss chard, garlic, onions, parsley, bread, and egg and wrapped in crépine (caul fat); served hot or cold; specialty of northern provence.caisse: cash register; or cash desk.caissette: literally, “small box”; bread, brioche, or chocolate shaped like a small box.cajasse: a sort of clafoutis from the dordogne, made with black cherries.cajou: cashew nut.calisson d’aix: delicate, diamond shaped provençal sweet prepared with almonds, candied oranges, melon or abricots, egg white, sugar, and jam of oranges or apricots.calmar: small squid, similar to encornet; with interior transparent cartilage instead of a bone. also called chipiron in the southwest.calvados: a département in normandy known for the famed apple brandy.camembert (de normandie): village in normandy that gives its name to a supple, fragrant cheese made of cow’s milk.camomille: camomile, herb tea.campagnard(e) (assiette): country style, rustic; (an informal buffet of cold meats, terrines, etc.).campagne, à la: country style.canada: cooking apple.canapé: originally a slice of crustless bread; now also used to refer to a variety of hors d’oeuvre consisting of toasted or fried bread, spread with forcemeat, cheese, and other flavorings.canard: duck.canard à la presse: roast duck served with a sauce of juices obtained from pressing the carcass, combined with red wine and cognac.canard sauvage: wild duck, usually mallard.cancoillotte: spreadable cheese from the jura; usually blended with milk, spices, or white wine when served.caneton: young male duck.canette: young female duck.cannelle: cinnamon.cannoise, à la: in the style of cannes.canon: the marrow bone cantal: large cylindrical cheese made in the auvergne from shredded and pressed curds of cow’s milk.cantalon: smaller version of cantal.cantaloup: cantaloupe melon.capilotade: basically any leftover meat or poultry cooked to tenderness in a well reduced sauce.capre: caper.capucine: nasturtium; the leaves and flowers are used in salads.carafe (d’eau): pitcher (of tap water). house wine is often offered in a carafe. a full carafe contains one liter; a demi carafe contains half a liter; a quart contains one fourth of a liter.caraïbes: caribbean, usually denotes chocolate from the caribbean.caramelisé: cooked with high heat to brown the sugar and heighten flavor.carbonnade: braised beef stew prepared with beer and onions; specialty of the north; also refers to a cut of beef.cardamome: cardamon.carde: white rib, or stalk, portion of swiss chard.cardon: cardoon; large celery like vegetable in the artichoke family, popular in lyon, provence, and the mediterranean area.cargolade: a copious mixed grill of snails, lamb, pork sausage, and sometimes blood sausage, cooked over vine clippings; specialty of catalan, an area of southern languedoc.carotte: carrot.carpe: carp.carpe à la juive: braised marinated carp in aspic.carré d’agneau: rack (ribs) or loin of lamb; also crown roast.carré de porc: rack (ribs) or loin of pork; also crown roast.carré de veau: rack (ribs) or loin of veal; also crown roast.carrelet: see plaice.carte, à la: menu (dishes, which are charged for individually, selected from a restaurant’s full list of offerings).carte promotionelle or conseillée: a simple and inexpensive fixed price meal.carvi (grain de): caraway (seed).cary: curry.casher: kosher.casse croûte: “break bread”; slang for snack.casseron: cuttlefish.cassis (crème de): black currant (black currant liqueur).cassolette: usually a dish presented in a small casserole.cassonade: soft brown sugar; demerara sugar.cassoulet: popular southwestern casserole of white beans, including various combinations of sausages, duck, pork, lamb, mutton, and goose.cavaillon: a town in provence, known for its small, flavorful orange fleshed melons.caviar d’aubergine: cold seasoned eggplant puree.caviar du puy: green lentils from le puy, in the auvergne.cébette: a mild, leek like vegetable, sliced and eaten raw, in salads; native to provence, but seen occasionally outside the region.cebiche: seviche; generally raw fish marinated in lime juice and other seasonings.cédrat: a variety of mediterranean lemon.céleri (en branche): celery (stalk).céleri rave: celeriac, celery root.céleri remoulade: popular first course bistro dish of shredded celery root with tangy mayonnaise.cendre (sous la): ash (cooked by being buried in embers); some cheeses made in wine producing regions are aged in the ash of burned rootstocks.cèpe: large, meaty wild boletus mushroom.cerdon: sparkling (pétillant) rosé wines made in the bugey appellation in the southern jura.céréale: cereal.cerf: stag, or male deer.cerfeuil: chervil.cerise: etccherry.cerise noire: black cherry.cerneau: walnut meat.cervelas: garlicky cured pork sausage; now also refers to fish and seafood sausage.cervelle(s): brain(s), of calf or lamb.cervelle de canut: a soft, fresh herbed cheese known as “silkworker’s brains”; specialty of lyon.céteau(x): small ocean fish, solette or baby sole, found in the gulf of gascony and along the atlantic coast.cévenole, à la: cevennes style; garnished with chestnuts or mushrooms.chalutier: trawler; any flat fish caught with a trawl.champêtre: rustic; describes a simple presentation of a variety of ingredients.champignon: mushroom.à la bague: parasol mushroom with a delicate flavor; also called coulemelle, cocherelle, and grisotte.des bois: wild mushroom, from the woods.de paris: most common cultivated mushroom.sauvage: wild mushroom.champvallon, côtelette d’agneau: traditional dish of lamb chops baked in alternating layers of pota toes and onions; named for a village in northern burgundy.chanterelle: prized pale orange wild mushroom; also called girolle.chantilly: sweetened whipped cream.chaource: soft and fruity cylindrical cow’s milk cheese, with a 50 percent fat content; takes its name from a village in champagne.chapeau: “hat”; small round loaf, topped with a little dough hat.chapelure: bread crumbs.chapon: capon, or castrated chicken.chapon de mer: mediterranean fish, in the rascasse or scorpion fish family.charbon de bois, au: charcoal grilled.charentais: variety of sweet cantaloupe, or melon, originally from the charentes, on the atlantic coast.charlotte: classic dessert in which a dish is lined with ladyfingers, filled with custard or other filling, and served cold; in the hot version, the dish is lined with crustless white bread sautéed in butter, filled with fruit compote and baked. also a potato variety. charolais: area of burgundy; light colored cattle producing high quality beef; also, firm white cylinder of cheese made with goat’s or cow’s milk, or a mixture of the two.chartreuse: dish of braised partridge and cabbage; also herb and spiced based liqueur made by the chartreuse monks in the savoie.chasseur: hunter; also, sauce with white wine, mushrooms, shallots, tomatoes, and herbs.châtaigne: chestnut, smaller than marron, with multiple nut meats.chateaubriand: thick filet steak, traditionally served with sautéed potatoes and a sauce of white wine, dark beef stock, butter, shallots, and herbs, or with a béarnaise sauce.châtelaine, à la: elaborate garnish of artichoke hearts and chestnut purée, braised lettuce, and sautéed potatoes.chaud(e): hot or warm.chaud froid: “hot cold”; cooked poultry dish served cold, usually covered with a cooked sauce, then with aspic.chaudrée: atlantic fish stew, often including sole, skate, small eels, potatoes, butter, white wine, and seasoning.chausson: a filled pastry turnover, sweet or savory.chemise, en: wrapped with pastry.cheval: horse, horse meat.cheveux d’ange: “angel’s hair”; thin vermicelli pasta.chèvre (fromage de): goat (goat’s milk cheese).chevreau: young goat.chevreuil: young roe buck or roe deer; venison.chevrier: small, pale green, dried kidney shaped bean, a type of flageolet.chichi: doughnut like, deep fried bread spirals sprinkled with sugar; often sold from trucks at open air markets; specialty of provence and the mediterranean.chicons du nord: belgian endive.chicorée (frisée): a bitter salad green (curly endive); also chicory, a coffee substitute.chicorée de bruxelles: belgian endive.chiffonnade: shredded herbs and vegetables, usually green.chinchard: also called saurel, scad or horse mackerel; atlantic and mediterranean fish similar to mackerel.chipiron (à l’encre): southwestern name for small squid, or encornet (in its own ink).chipolata: small sausage.chips, pommes: potato chips.chocolat: chocolate.amer: bittersweet chocolate, with very little sugar.au lait: milk chocolate.chaud: hot chocolate.mi amer: bittetsweet chocolate, with more sugar than chocolat amer.noir: used interchangeably with chocolat amer.choix, au: a choice; usually meaning one may choose from several offerings.chorizo: highly spiced spanish sausage.choron, sauce: béarnaise sauce with tomatoes.chou: cabbage.chou de bruxelles: brussels sprout.chou de mer: sea kale.chou de milan: savoy cabbage.chou fleur: cauliflower.chou frisé: kale.chou navet: rutabaga.chou rave: kohlrabi.chou rouge: red cabbage.chou vert: curly green savoy cabbage.choucas: jackdaw; european blackbird, like a crow, but smaller.choucroute (nouvelle): sauerkraut (the season’s first batch of sauerkraut, still crunchy and slightly acidic); also main dish of sauerkraut, various sausages, bacon, and pork, served with potatoes; specialty of alsace and brasseries all over france.choux, pâte à: cream pastry dough.ciboule: spring onion, or scallion.ciboulette: chives.cidre: bottled, mildly alcoholic cider, either apple or pear.cigale de mer: “sea cricket”; tender, crayfish like, blunt nosed rock lobster.cîteaux: creamy, ample disc of cow’s milk cheese with a rust colored rind made by the cistercian monks at the abbaye de cîteaux in burgundy.citron: lemon.citron, orange, or pamplemousse pressé(e): lemon, orange, or grapefruit juice served with a carafe of tap water and sugar; for sweetening to taste.citron vert: lime.citronnelle: lemon grass, an oriental herb; also lemon balm (mèlisse).citrouille: pumpkin, gourd. also called courge, potiron, potimarron.cive: spring onion.civelle: spaghetti like baby eel, also called pibale.civet: stew, usually of game traditionally thickened with blood.civet de lièvre: jugged hare, or wild rabbit stew.civet de tripes d’oies: a stew of goose innards, sautéed in fat with onions, shallots, and garlic, then cooked in wine vinegar and diluted with water, and thickened with goose blood; from gascony.clafoutis: traditional custard tart, usually made with black cherries; specialty of the southwest.claire: oyster; also a designation given to certain oysters to indicate they have been put in claires, or oyster beds in salt marshes, where they are fattened up for several months before going to market.clamart: paris suburb once famous for its green peas; today a garnish of peas.clémentine: small tangerine, from morocco or spain.clouté: studded with.clovisse: variety of very tiny clam, generally from the mediterranean.cocherelle: parasol mushroom with a delicate flavor; also called champignon à la bague, coulemelle, and grisotte.cochon (de lait): pig (suckling).cochonnaille(s): pork product(s); usually an assortment of sausages and/or pâtés served as a first course.coco blanc (rouge): type of small white (red) shell bean, both fresh and dried, popular in provence, where it is a traditional ingredient of the vegetable soupe au pistou; also, coconut.coco de paimpol: cream colored shell bean striated with purple, from brittany, in season from july to november; the first bean in france to receive aoc.cocotte: a high sided cooking pot (casserole) with a lid; a small ramekin dish for baking and serving eggs and other preparations.coeur: heart.coeur de filet: thickest (and best) part of beef filet, usually cut into chateaubriand steaks.coeur de palmier: delicate shoots of the palm tree, generally served with a vinaigrette as an hors d’oeuvre.coffre: “chest”; refers to the body of a lobster or other crustacean, or of a butchered animal.coiffe: traditional lacy hat; sausage patty wrapped in caul fat.coing: quince.col vert: wild (“green collared”) mallard duck.colbert: method of preparing fish, coating with egg and bread crumbs and then frying.colère, en: “anger”; method of presenting fish in which the tail is inserted in the mouth, so it appears agitated.colin: hake, ocean fish related to cod; known as merluche in the north, merluchon in brittany, bardot or merlan along the mediterranean.colombe: dove.colombo: a mixture of spices, like a curry powder, used to season shellfish, meat or poultry. like curry, the mix may vary, but usually contains tumeric, rice powder, coriander, pepper, cumin, and fenugreek.colza: rape, a plant of the mustard family, colorful yellow field crop grown throughout france, usu ally pressed into vegetable (rapeseed) oil.commander avant le repas, à: a selection of desserts that should be ordered when selecting first and main courses, as they require longer cooking.complet: filled up, with no more room for customers.compote: stewed fresh or dried fruit.compotier: fruit bowl; also stewed fruit.compris: see service (non) compris.comté: large wheel of cheese of cooked and pressed cow’s milk; the best is made of raw milk and aged for six months, still made by independent cheesemakers in the jura mountains.concassé: coarsely chopped.concombre: cucumber.conférence: a variety of pear.confiserie: candy, sweet, or confection; a candy shop.confit: a preserve, generally pieces of duck, goose, or pork cooked and preserved in their own fat; also fruit or vegetables preserved in sugar, alcohol, or vinegar.confiture: jam.confiture de vieux garçon: varied fresh fruits macerated in alcohol.congeler: to freeze.congre: conger eel; a large ocean fish resembling a freshwater eel (anguille); often used in fish stews.conseillé: advised, recommended.consommation(s): “consumption”; drinks, meals, and snacks available in a cafe or bar.consommé: clear soup.contre filet: cut of sirloin taken above the loin on either side of the backbone, tied for roasting or braising (can also be cut for grilling).conversation: puff pastry tart with sugar glazing and an almond or cream filling.copeau(x): shaving(s), such as from chocolate, cheese, or vegetables.coq (au vin): mature male chicken (stewed in wine sauce).coq au vin jaune: chicken cooked in the sherry like vin jaune of the region, with cream, butter; and tarragon, often garnished with morels; specialty of the jura.coq de bruyère: wood grouse.coque: cockle, a tiny, mild flavored, clam like shellfish.coque, à la: served in a shell. see oeuf à la coque.coquelet: young male chicken.coquillage(s): shellfish.coquille: shell.coquille saint jacques: sea scallop.corail: coral colored egg sac, found in scallops, spiny lobster, and crayfish.corb: a mediterranean bluefish.coriandre: coriander; either the fresh herb or dried seeds.corne d’abondance: “horn of plenty”; dark brown wild mushroom, also called trompette de la mort.cornet: cornet shaped; usually refers to foods rolled conically; also an ice cream cone, and a conic al pastry filled with cream.cornichon: gherkin; tiny tart cucumber pickle.côte d’agneau: lamb chop.côte de boeuf: beef blade or rib steak.côte de veau: veal chop.côtelette: thin chop or cutlet.cotriade: a fish stew, usually including mackerel, whiting, conger eel, sorrel, butter, potatoes, and vinegar; specialty of brittany.cou d’oie (de canard) farci: neck skin of goose (of duck), stuffed with meat and spices, much like sausage.coulant: refers to runny cheese.coulemelle: parasol mushroom with a delicate flavor; also called champignon à la bague, cocherelle, and grisotte.coulibiac: classic, elaborate, hot russian pâté, usually layers of salmon, rice, hard cooked eggs, mushrooms, and onions, wrapped in brioche.coulis: purée of raw or cooked vegetables or fruit.coulommiers: town in the ile de france that gives its name to a supple, fragrant disc of cow’s milk cheese, slightly larger than camembert.courge (muscade): generic term for squash or gourd (bright orange pumpkin).courgette: zucchini.couronne: “crown”; ring or circle, usually of bread.court bouillon: broth, or aromatic poaching liquid.couscous: granules of semolina, or hard wheat flour; also refers to a hearty north african dish that includes the steamed grain, broth, vegetables, meats, hot sauce, and sometimes chickpeas and raisins.couteau: razor clam.couvert: a place setting, including dishes, silver, glassware, and linen.couverture: bittersweet chocolate high in cocoa butter; used for making the shiniest chocolates.crabe: crab.crambe: sea kale, or chou de mer.cramique: brioche with raisins or currants; specialty of the north.crapaudine: preparation of grilled poultry or game bird with backbone removed.craquant: crunchy.craquelot: smoked herring.crécy: a dish garnished with carrots.crémant: sparkling wine.crème: cream.aigre: sour cream.anglaise: light egg custard cream.brûlée: rich custard dessert with a top of caramelized sugar.caramel: vanilla custard with caramel sauce.catalane: creamy anise flavored custard from the southern languedoc.chantilly: sweetened whipped cream.épaisse: thick cream.fleurette: liquid heavy cream.fouettée: whipped cream.fraîche: thick sour; heavy cream.pâtissière: custard filling for pastries and cakes.plombières: custard filled with fresh fruits and egg whites.crêpe: thin pancake.crêpe suzette: hot crêpe dessert flamed with orange liqueur.crépine: caul fat.crépinette: traditionally, a small sausage patty wrapped in caul fat; today boned poultry wrapped in caul fat.cresson(ade): watercress (watercress sauce).crête (de coq): (cock’s) comb.creuse: elongated, crinkle shelled oyster.crevette: shrimp.crevette grise: tiny soft fleshed shrimp that turns gray when cooked.crevette rose: small firm fleshed shrimp that turns red when cooked; when large, called bouquet.crique: potato pancake from the auvergne.criste marine: edible algae.croque au sel, à la: served raw, with a small bowl of coarse salt for seasoning; tiny purple artichokes and cherry tomatoes are served this way.croque madame: open face sandwich of ham and cheese with an egg grilled on top.croque monsieur: toasted ham and cheese sandwich.croquembouche: choux pastry rounds filled with cream and coated with a sugar glaze, often served in a conical tower at special events.croquette: ground meat, fish, fowl, or vegetables bound with eggs or sauce, shaped into various forms, usually coated in bread crumbs, and deep fried.crosne: small, unusual tuber; with a subtle artichoke like flavor; known as a chinese or japanese artichoke.crottin de chavignol: small flattened ball of goat’s milk cheese from the loire valley.croustade: usually small pastry wrapped dish; also regional southwestern pastry filled with prunes and/or apples.croûte (en): crust; (in) pastry.croûte de sel (en): (in) a salt crust.croûtons: small cubes of toasted or fried bread.cru: raw.crudité: raw vegetable.crustacé(s): crustacean(s).cuillière (à la): (to be eaten with a) spoon.cuisse (de poulet): leg or thigh (chicken drumstick).cuissot, cuisseau: haunch of veal, venison, or wild boar.cuit(e): cooked.cul: haunch or rear; usually of red meat.culotte: rump, usually of beef.cultivateur: “truck farmer”; fresh vegetable soup.curcuma: turmeric.cure dent: toothpick. d damier: “checkerboard”; arrangement of vegetables or other ingredients in alternating colors like a checkerboard; also, a cake with such a pattern of light and dark pieces.darne: a rectangular portion of fish filet; also a fish steak, usually of salmon.dariole: truncated cone or oval shaped baking mold.dartois: puff pastry rectangles layered with an almond cream filling as a dessert, or stuffed with meat or fish as an hors d’oeuvre.datte (de mer): date (date shaped prized wild mediterranean mussel).daube: a stew, usually of beef lamb, or mutton, with red wine, onions, and/or tomatoes; specialty of many regions, particularly provençe and the atlantic coast.dauphin: cow’s milk cheese shaped like a dauphin, or dolphin; from the north.daurade: sea bream, similar to porgy, the most prized of a group of ocean fish known as dorade.décaféiné or déca: decaffeinated coffee.décortiqué(e): shelled or peeled.dégustation: tasting or sampling.déjeuner: lunch.demi: half; also, an 8 ounce (250 ml) glass of beer; also, a half bottle of wine.demi deuil: “in half mourning”; poached (usually chicken) with sliced truffles inserted under the skin; also, sweetbreads with a truffled white sauce.demi glace: concentrated beef based sauce lightened with consommé, or a lighter brown sauce.demi sec: usually refers to goat cheese that is in the intermediate aging stage between one extreme of soft and fresh and the other extreme of hard and aged.demi sel (beurre): lightly salted (butter).demi tasse: small cup; after dinner coffee cup.demoiselle de canard: marinated raw duck tenderloin; also called mignon de canard.demoiselles de cherbourg: small lobsters from the town of cherbourg in normandy, cooked in a court bouillon and served in cooking juices. also, restaurant name for breton lobsters weighing 300 to 400 grams (10 to 13 ounces).dentelle: “lace”; a portion of meat or fish so thinly sliced as to suggest a resemblance. also, large lace thin sweet crêpe.dent, denté: one of a generic group of mediterranean fish known as dorade, similar to porgy.dents de lion: dandelion salad green; also called pissenlit.dés: diced pieces.désossé: boned.diable: “devil”; method of preparing poultry with a peppery sauce, often mustard based. also, a round pottery casserole.dieppoise: dieppe style; usually white wine, mussels, shrimp, mushrooms, and cream.digestif: general term for spirits served after dinner; such as armagnac, cognac, marc, eau de vie.dijonnaise: dijon style; usually with mustard.dinde: turkey hen.dindon(neau): turkey (young turkey).dîner: dinner; to dine.diot: pork sausage cooked in wine, often served with a potato gratin; specialty of the savoie.discrétion, à: on menus usually refers to wine, which may be consumed  without limit  at the customer’s discretion.dodine: cold stuffed boned poultry.dorade: generic name for group of ocean fish, the most prized of which is daurade, similar to porgy.doré: browned until golden.dos: back; also the meatiest portion of fish.doucette: see mâche.douceur: sweet or dessert.douillon, duillon: a whole pear wrapped and cooked in pastry; specialty of normandy.doux, douce: sweet.doyenné de comice: a variety of pear.dugléré: white flour based sauce with shallots, white wine, tomatoes, and parsley.dur (oeuf): hard (hard cooked egg).duxelles: minced mushrooms and shallots sautéed in butter, then mixed with cream. eau du robinet: tap water.eau de source: spring water.eau de vie: literally, “water of life”; brandy, usually fruit based.eau gazeuse: carbonated water.eau minérale: mineral water.echalote (gris): shallot (prized purplish shallot), elongated.echalote banane: banana shaped onion.echine: pork shoulder, encompassing the blade bone and spare ribs.echourgnac: delicately flavored, ochre skinned cheese made of cow’s milk by the monks at the echourgnac monastery in the dordogne.eclade de moules: mussels roasted beneath a fire of pine needles; specialty of the atlantic coast.ecrasé: crushed; with fruit, pressed to release juice.ecrevisse: freshwater crayfish.effiloché: frayed, shredded.eglantine: wild rose jam; specialty of alsace.eglefin, égrefin, aiglefin: small fresh haddock, a type of cod.elzekaria: soup made with green beans, cabbage, and garlic; specialty of the basque region.embeurré de chou: buttery cooked cabbage.emincé: thin slice, usually of meat.emmental: large wheel of cooked and pressed cow’s milk cheese, very mild in flavor, with large interior holes; made in large commercial dairies in the jura.emondé: skinned by blanching, such as almonds, tomatoes.en sus: see service en sus.enchaud: pork filet with garlic; specialty of dordogne.encornet: small illex squid, also called calmar; in basque region called chipiron.encre: squid ink.endive: belgian endive; also chicory salad green.entier, entière: whole, entire.entrecôte: beef rib steak.entrecôte maître d’hôtel: beef rib steak with sauce of red wine and shallots.entrée: first course.entremets: dessert.epais(se): thick.epaule: shoulder (of veal, lamb, mutton, or pork).épeautre: poor man’s wheat from provence; spelt.eperlan: smelt or whitebait, usually fried, often imported but still found in the estuaries of the loire.epi de maïs: ear of sweet corn.epice: spice.epigramme: classic dish of grilled breaded lamb chop and a piece of braised lamb breast shaped like a chop, breaded, and grilled; crops up on modern menus as an elegant dish of breaded and fried baby lamb chops paired with lamb sweetbreads and tongue.epinard: spinach.epine vinette: highbush cranberry.époisses: village in burgundy that gives its name to a buttery disc of cow’s milk cheese with a strong, smooth taste and rust colored rind.époisses blanc: fresh white époisses cheese.equille: sand eel, a long silvery fish that buries itself in the sand; eaten fried on the atlantic coast.escabèche: a provençal and southwestern preparation of small fish, usually sardines or rouget, in which the fish are browned in oil, then marinated in vinegar and herbs and served very cold. also, raw fish marinated in lemon or lime juice and herbs.escalivada: catalan roasted vegetables, usually sweet peppers, eggplant, and onions. escalope: thin slice of meat or fish.escargot: land snail.escargot de bourgogne: land snail prepared with butter; garlic, and parsley.escargot petit gris: small land snail.escarole: bitter salad green of the chicory family with thick broad lobed leaves, found in both flat and round heads.espadon: swordfish found in the gulf of gascony, atlantic, and mediterranean.espagnole, à l’: spanish style; with tomatoes, peppers, onions, and garlic.esqueixada: in catalan literally means “shredded”; a shredded salt cod salad.estival: summer, used to denote seasonality of ingredients.estoficado: a purée like blend of dried codfish, olive oil, tomatoes, sweet peppers, black olives, potatoes, garlic, onions, and herbs; also called stockfish niçoise: specialty of nice.estofinado: a purée like blend of dried codfish, potatoes, garlic, parsley, eggs, walnut oil, and milk, served with triangles of toast; specialty of the auvergne.estouffade à la provençale: beef stew with onions, garlic, carrots, and orange zest.estragon: tarragon.etoffé: stuffed.etoile: star; star shaped.etouffé; étuvé: literally “smothered”; method of cooking very slowly in a tightly covered pan with almost no liquid.etrille: small swimming crab.express: espresso coffee. façon (à ma): (my) way of preparing a dish.fagot: “bundle”; meat shaped into a small ball.faisan(e): pheasant.faisandé: game that has been hung to age.fait: usually refers to a cheese that has been well aged and has character   runny if it’s a camembert, hard and dry if it’s a goat cheese; also means ready to eat.fait, pas trop: refers to a cheese that has been aged for a shorter time and is blander; also for a cheese that will ripen at home.falette: veal breast stuffed with bacon and vegetables, browned, and poached in broth; specialty of the auvergne.fanes: green tops of root vegetables such as carrots, radishes, turnips.far: breton sweet or savory pudding cakes; the most common, similar to clafoutis from the dordogne, is made with prunes.farci(e): stuffed.farigoule(tte): provençal name for wild thyme.farine: flour.complète: whole wheat flour.d’avoine: oat flour.de blé: wheat flour; white flour.de maïs: corn flour.de sarrasin: buckwheat flour.de seigle: rye flour.de son: bran flour.faux filet: sirloin steak.favorite d’artichaut: classic vegetable dish of artichoke stuffed with asparagus, covered with a cheese sauce, and browned.favou(ille): in provence, tiny male (female) crab often used in soups.fenouil: fennel.fer à cheval: “horseshoe”; a baguette that has that shape.féra, feret: salmon like lake fish, found in lac léman, in the morvan, in burgundy, and in the auvergne.ferme (fermier: fermière): farm (farmer); in cheese, refers to farm made cheese, often used to mean raw milk cheese; in chickens, refers to free range chickens.fermé: closed.fernkase: young cheese shaped like a flying saucer and sprinkled with coarsely ground pepper; specialty of alsace.feu de bois, au: cooked over a wood fire.feuille de chêne: oak leaf lettuce.feuille de vigne: vine leaf.feuilletage (en): (in) puff pastry.feuilletée: puff pastry.féves (févettes): broad, fava, coffee, or cocoa beans (miniature beans); also, the porcelain figure baked into the twelfth night cake, or, galette des rois.fiadone: corsican flan made from cheese and oranges.ficelle (boeuf à la): “string”; (beef suspended on a string and poached in broth). also, small thin baguette. also, a small bottle of wine, as in carafe of beaujolais.ficelle picarde: thin crêpe wrapped around a slice of ham and topped with a cheesy cream sauce; specialty of picardy, in the north.figue: fig.financier: small rectangular almond cake.financière: madiera sauce with truffle juice.fine de claire: elongated crinkle shelled oyster that stays in fattening beds (claires) a minimum of two months.fines herbes: mixture of herbs, usually chervil, parsley, chives, tarragon.flageolet: small white or pale green kidney shaped dried bean.flamande, à la: flemish style; usually with stuffed cabbage leaves, carrots, turnips, potatoes, and bacon.flamber: to burn off the alcohol by igniting. usually the brandies or other liqueurs to be flambéed are warmed first, then lit as they are poured into the dish.flamiche (au maroilles): a vegetable tart with rich bread dough crust, commonly filled with leeks, cream, and cheese; specialty of picardy, in the north; (filled with cream, egg, butter, and maroilles cheese).flammekueche: thin crusted savory tart, much like a rectangular pizza, covered with cream, onions, and bacon; also called tarte flambée; specialty of alsace.flan: sweet or savory tart. also, a crustless custard pie.flanchet: flank of beef or veal, used generally in stews.flagnarde, flaugnarde, flognarde: hot, fruit filled batter cake made with eggs, flour, milk, and butter, and sprinkled with sugar before serving; specialty of the southwest.flétan: halibut, found in the english channel and north sea.fleur (de sel): flower (fine, delicate sea salt, from brittany or the camargue).fleur de courgette: zucchini blossom.fleuron: puff pastry crescent.florentine: with spinach. also, a cookie of nougatine and candied fruit brushed with a layer of chocolate.flûte: “flute”; usually a very thin baguette; also, form of champagne glass.foie: liver.foie blond de volaille: chicken liver; also sometimes a chicken liver mousse.foie de veau: calf’s liver.foie gras d’oie (de canard): liver of fattened goose (duck).foin (dans le): (cooked in) hay.fond: cooking juices from meat, used to make sauces. also, bottom.fond d’artichaut: heart and base of an artichoke.fondant: “melting”; refers to cooked, worked sugar that is flavored, then used for icing cakes. also, the bittersweet chocolate high in cocoa butter used for making the shiniest chocolates. also, puréed meat, fish, or vegetables shaped in croquettes.fondu(e): melted.fontainebleau: creamy white fresh dessert cheese from the ile de france.forestière: garnish of wild mushrooms, bacon, and potatoes.fouace: a kind of brioche; specialty of the auvergne.foudjou: a pungent goat cheese spread, a blend of fresh and aged grated cheese mixed with salt, pepper, brandy, and garlic and cured in a crock; specialty of northern provence.fougasse: a crusty lattice like bread made of baguette dough or puff pastry often flavored with anchovies, black olives, herbs, spices, or onions; specialty of provence and the mediterranean. also, a sweet bread of provence flavored with orange flower water, oil, and sometimes almonds.fouchtrou: cow’s milk cheese from the auvergne, made when there is not enough milk to make an entire wheel of cantal.four (au): (baked in an) oven.fourme d’ambert: cylindrical blue veined cow’s milk cheese, made in dairies around the town of ambert in the auvergne.fourré: stuffed or filled.foyot: classic sauce made of béarnaise with meat glaze.frais, fraîche: fresh or chilled.fraise: strawberry.fraise des bois: wild strawberry.framboise: raspberry.française, à la: classic garnish of peas with lettuce, small white onions, and parsley.frangipane: almond custard filling.frappé: usually refers to a drink served very cold or with ice, often shaken.frémi: “quivering”; often refers to barely cooked oysters.friandise: sweetmeat, petit four.fricadelle: fried minced meat patty.fricandeau: thinly sliced veal or a rump roast, braised with vegetables and white wine.fricassée: classically, ingredients braised in wine sauce or butter with cream added; currently denotes any mixture of ingredients  fish or meat  stewed ot sautéed.fricot (de veau): veal shoulder simmered in white wine with vegetables.frisé(e): “curly”; usually curly endive, the bitter salad green of the chicory family sold in enormous round heads.frit(e): fried.frites: french fries.fritons: coarse pork rillettes or a minced spread which includes organ meats.fritot: small organ meat fritter, where meat is partially cooked, then marinated in oil, lemon juice, and herbs, dipped in batter and fried just before serving; also can refer to any small fried piece of meat or fish.friture: fried food; also a preparation of small fried fish, usually white bait or smelt.froid(e): cold.fromage: cheese.blanc: a smooth low fat cheese similar to cottage cheese.d’alpage: cheese made in mountain pastures during the prime summer milking period.fort: pungent cheese.frais: smooth, runny fresh cheese, like cottage cheese.frais, bien égouté: well drained fresh cheese.maigre: low fat cheese.fromage de tête: headcheese, usually pork.fruit confit: whole fruit preserved in sugar.fruits de mer: seafood.fumé: smoked.fumet: fish stock. galantine: classical preparation of boned meat or whole poultry that is stuffed or rolled, cooked, then glazed with gelatin and served cold.galette: round flat pastry, pancake, or cake; can also refer to pancake like savory preparations; in brittany usually a savory buckwheat crêpe, known as blé noir.galette bressane, galette de pérouges: cream and sugar tart from the bresse area of the rhône alpes.galette des rois: puff pastry filled with almond pastry cream, traditional twelfth night celebration cake.galinette: tub gurnard, mediterranean fish of the mullet family.gambas: large prawn.ganache: classically a rich mixture of chocolate and crème fraîche used as a filling for cakes and chocolate truffles; currently may also include such flavorings as wild strawberries and cinnamon.garbure: a hearty stew that includes cabbage, beans, and salted or preserved duck, goose, turkey or pork; specialty of the southwest.gardiane: stew of beef or bull (toro) meat, with bacon, onions, garlic, and black olives; served with rice; specialty of the camargue, in provence.gargouillau: pear cake or tart; specialty of northern auvergne.garni(e): garnished.garniture: garnish.gasconnade: roast leg of lamb with garlic and anchovies; specialty of the southwest.gaspacho: a cold soup, usually containing tomatoes, cucumber, onions, and sweet peppers; originally of spanish origin.gâteau: cake.basque: a chewy sweet cake filled with pastry cream or, historically, with black cherry jam; also called pastiza; specialty of the basque region.breton: a rich round pound cake; specialty of brittany.opéra: classic almond sponge cake layered with coffee and chocolate butter cream and covered with a sheet of chocolate; seen in every pastry shop window.saint honoré: classic cake of choux puffs dipped in caramel and set atop a cream filled choux crown on a pastry base.gaude: thick corn flour porridge served hot, or cold and sliced, with cream.gaufre: waffle.gave: southwestern term for mountain stream; indicates fish from the streams of the area.gayette: small sausage patty made with pork liver and bacon, wrapped in caul fat and bacon.gelée: aspic.gendarme: salted and smoked herring.genièvere: juniper berry.génoise: sponge cake.gentiane: gentian; a liqueur made from this mountain flower.germiny: garnish of sorrel. also, sorrel and cream soup.germon: albacore or long fin tuna.gésier: gizzard.gibassier: round sweet bread from provence, often flavored with lemon or orange zest, orange flower water, and/or almonds. also sometimes called fougasse or pompe à l’huile.gibelotte: fricassée of rabbit in red or white wine.gibier: game, sometimes designated as gibier à plume (feathered) or gibier à poil (furry).gigot (de pré salé): usually a leg of lamb (lamb grazed on the salt meadows along the atlantic and normandy coasts).gigot de mer: a preparation, usually of large pieces of monkfish (lotte) oven roasted like a leg of lamb.gigue (de): haunch (of) certain game meats.gillardeau: prized oyster raised in normandy and finished in claires, or fattening beds on the atlantic coast. gingembre: ginger.girofle: clove.girolle: prized pale orange wild mushroom; also called chanterelle.givré; orange givré: frosted; orange sherbet served in its skin.glace: ice cream.glacé: iced, crystallized, or glazed.gnocchi: dumplings made of choux paste, potatoes, or semolina.goret: young pig.gougère: cheese flavored choux pastry.goujon: small catfish; generic name for a number of small fish. also, preparation in which the central part of a larger fish is coated with bread crumbs, then deep fried.goujonnette: generally used to describe a small piece of fish, such as sole, usually fried.gourmandise(s): weakness for sweet things; (sweetmeats or candies).gousse d’ail: clove of garlic.gousse de vanille: vanilla bean.goût: taste.goûter (le): to taste, to try; (children’s afternoon snack).graine de moutarde: mustard seed.graine de lin: flax seedgraisse: fat.graisserons: crisply fried pieces of duck or goose skin; cracklings.grand crème: large or double espresso with milk.grand cru: top ranking wine.grand veneur: “chief huntsman”; usually a brown sauce for game, with red currant jelly.granité: a type of sherbet; a sweetened, flavored ice.grappe (de raisins): cluster; bunch (of grapes).gras (marché au): fatty; (market of fattened poultry and their livers).gras double: tripe baked with onions and white wine.gratin: crust formed on top of a dish when browned in broiler or oven; also the dish in which such food is cooked.gratin dauphinois: baked casserole of sliced potatoes, usually with cream, milk, and sometimes cheese and/or eggs.gratin savoyard: baked casserole of sliced potatoes, usually with bouillon, cheese, and butter.gratiné(e): having a crusty, browned top.gratinée lyonnaise: bouillon flavored with port, garnished with beaten egg, topped with cheese, and browned under a broiler.grattons, grattelons: crisply fried pieces of pork, goose, or duck skin; cracklings.gratuit: free.grecque, à la: cooked in seasoned mixture of oil, lemon juice, and water; refers to cold vegetables, usually mushrooms.grelette, sauce: cold sauce with a base of whipped cream.grelot: small white bulb onion.grenade: pomegranate.grenaille: refers to small, bite size new potato of any variety. grenadin: small veal scallop.grenouille (cuisse de): frog (leg).gressini: breadsticks, seen along the côte d’azur.gribiche, sauce: mayonnaise with capers, cornichons, hard cooked eggs, and herbs.grillade: grilled meat.grillé(e): grilled.griotte: shiny slightly acidic, reddish black cherry.grisotte: parasol mushroom with a delicate flavor; also called champignon à la bague. cocherelle. and coulemelle.grive: thrush.grondin: red gurnard, a bony ocean fish, a member of the mullet family, used in fish stews such as bouillabaisse.groin d’âne: “donkey’s snout”; lyonnais name for a bitter winter salad green similar to dandelion greens.gros sel: coarse salt.groseille: red currant.gruyère: strictly speaking, cheese from the gruyère area of switzerland; in france, generic name for a number of hard, mild, cooked cheeses from the jura, including comté, beaufort, and emmental.gyromite: group of wild mushrooms, or gyromitra, known as false morels. hachis: minced or chopped meat or fish preparation.haddock: small fresh cod that have been salted and smoked.hareng: herring, found in the atlantic, the english channel (the best between dunkerque and fécamp), and the mouth of the gironde river.hareng à l’huile: herring cured in oil, usually served with a salad of warm sliced potatoes.hareng baltique, bismark: marinated herring.hareng bouffi: herring that is salted, then smoked.hareng pec: freshly salted young herring.hareng roll mop: marinated herring rolled around a small pickle.hareng saur: smoked herring.haricot: bean.beurre: yellow bean.blancs (à la bretonne): white beans, usually dried; (white beans in a sauce of onions, tomatoes, garlic, and herbs).de mouton: stew of mutton and white beans (also called halicots).gris: green string bean mottled with purplish black; also called pélandron: a specialty of the côte d’azur.rouge: red kidney bean; also, preparation of red beans in red wine.sec: dried bean.vert: green bean, usually fresh.hâtelet, attelet: decorative skewer; currently used to mean meat or fish cooked on a skewer.herbes de provence: mixture of thyme, rosemary, summer savory, and bay leaf, often dried and blended.hirondelle: swallow.hochepot: a thick stew, usually of oxtail; specialty of flanders, in the north.hollandaise: sauce of butter, egg yolks, and lemon juice.homard (à l’amoricaine, à l’américaine): lobster; (a classic dish of many variations, in which lobster is cut into sections and browned, then simmered with shallots, minced onions, tomatoes, cognac, and white wine; served with a sauce of the reduced cooking liquid, enriched with butter).hongroise, à la: hungarian style; usually with paprika and cream.hors d’oeuvre: appetizer; can also refer to a first course.hortillon: picturesque market garden plot built between crisscrossed canals on the outskirts of amiens, a city in the north.huile: oil.d’arachide: peanut oil.de colza: rapeseed oil.de maïs: corn oil.de noisette: hazelnut oil.de noix: walnut oil.de pépins de raisins: grapeseed oil.de sésame: sesame oil.de tournesol: sunflower oil.d’olive (extra vierge): olive oil (extra virgin, or the first cold pressing).huître: oyster.hure de porc or de marcassin: head of pig or boar: usually refers to headcheese preparation.hure de saumon: a salmon “headcheese,” or pâté, prepared with salmon meat, not actually the head.hysope: hyssop; fragrant, mint like thistle found in provence, used in salads and in cooking. ile flottante: “floating island”; most commonly used interchangeably with oeufs à la neige, poached meringue floating in crème anglaise; classically, a layered cake covered with whipped cream and served with custard sauce.impératrice, à l’: usually a rice pudding dessert with candied fruit.impériale: variety of plum. also, a large bottle for wine, holding about 4 quarts (4 liters).impériale, à l’: classic haute cuisine garnish of mussels, cockscombs, crayfish, and other extravagant ingredients.indienne, à l’: east indian style, usually with curry powder.infusion: herb tea.isman bayaldi, imam bayaldi: “the priest fainted” in turkish; a dish of eggplant stuffed with sautéed onions, tomatoes, and spices; served cold. jalousie: “venetian blind”; classic small, latticed, flaky pastry filled with almond paste and spread with jam.jambon: ham; also refers to the leg, usually of pork, but also of poultry.à l’os: ham with the bone in.blanc: lightly salted, un smoked or very lightly smoked ham, served cooked; sold, cold, in charcuteries as jambon de paris, glacé, or demi sel.cru: salted or smoked ham that has been cured but not cooked.cuit: cooked ham.d’auvergne: raw, dry, salt cured smoked ham.de bayonne: raw, dry salt cured ham, very pale in color.de bourgogne: see jambon persillé.de montagne: any mountain ham, cured according to local custom.de paris: pale, lightly salted, cooked ham.de parme: italian prosciutto from parma, air dried and salt cured ham, sliced thin and served raw.de pays: any country ham, cured according to local custom.de poulet: boned stuffed chicken leg.de westphalie: german westphalian ham, raw, cured, and smoked.de york: smoked english style ham, usually poached.d’oie (or de canard): breast of fattened goose (or duck), smoked, salted, or sugar cured, somewhat resembling ham in flavor.fumé: smoked ham.persillé: cold cooked ham, cubed and preserved in parsleyed gelatin, usually sliced from a terrine; a specialty of burgundy.salé: salt cured ham.sec: dried ham.jambonneau: cured ham shank or pork knuckle.jambonnette: boned and stuffed knuckle of ham or poultry.jardinière: refers to a garnish of fresh cooked vegetables.jarret (de veau, de porc, de boeuf): knuckle (of veal or pork), shin (of beef).jerez: refers to sherry.jésus de morteau: plump smoked pork sausage that takes its name from the town of morteau in the jura; distinctive because a wooden peg is tied in the sausage casing on one end; traditionally, the sausage eaten at christmas, hence its name; also called saucisson de morteau.jeune: young.jonchée: rush basket in which certain fresh sheep’s  or goat’s milk cheeses of poitou (along the atlantic coast) are contained; thus, by extension, the cheese itself.joue: cheek.julienne: cut into slivers, usually vegetables or meat.jurançon: district in the béarn, the area around pau in southwestern france, known for its sweet and spicy white wine.jus: juice. kataifi (also kataif): thin strands of vermicelli like dough, used in green and middle eastern pastries and in some modern french preparations.kaki: persimmon.kari: variant spelling of cary.kiev: deep fried breast of chicken stuffed with herb and garlic butter.kir: an aperitif made with crème de cassis (black currant liqueur) and most commonly dry white wine, but sometimes red wine.kir royal: a kir made with champagne.kirsch: eau de vie of wild black cherries.knepfla: alsatian dumpling, sometimes fried.kougelhoph, hougelhof, kouglof, kugelhoph: sweet crown shaped yeast cake, with almonds and rai sins; specialty of alsace.kouigh amann: sweet, buttery pastry from brittany.kummel: caraway seed liqueur. lactaire: the edible lactaire pallidus mushroom, also called sanguine. apricot colored, with red, blood colored juices when raw.laguiole: cantal cheese from the area around the village of laguiole, in southern auvergne, still made in rustic huts.lait: milk.demi écremé: semi skimmed milk.écremé: skimmed milk.entier: whole milk.ribot: from brittany, buttermilk, served with crêpes.stérilizé: milk heated to a higher temperature than pasteurized milk, so that it stays fresh for several weeks.laitance: soft roe (often of herring), or eggs.laitier: made of or with milk; also denotes a commercially made product as opposed to fermier, meaning farm made.lait ribot: fermented milk from brittany, similar to cultured buttermilk.laitue: lettuce.lamelle: very thin strip.lamproie (à la bordelaise): lamprey eel, ocean fish that swim into rivers along the atlantic in springtime (hearty stew of lamprey eel and leeks in red wine).lançon: tiny fish, served fried.landaise, à la: from the landes in southwestern france; classically a garnish of garlic, pine nuts, and goose fat.langouste: clawless spiny lobster or rock lobster; sometimes called crawfish, and mistakenly crayfish.langoustine: clawed crustacean, smaller than either homard or langouste, with very delicate meat. known in british waters as dublin bay prawn.langres: supple, tangy cylindrical cow’s milk cheese with a rust colored rind; named for village in champagne.langue (de chat): tongue (“cat’s tongue”; thin, narrow, delicate cookie often served with sherbet or ice).languedocienne: garnish, usually of tomatoes, eggplant, and wild cèpe mushrooms.lapereau: young rabbit.lapin: rabbit.lapin de garenne: wild rabbit.lard: bacon.larder: to thread meat, fish, or liver with strips of fat for added moisture.lardon: cube of bacon.larme: “teardrop”; a very small portion of liquid.laurier: bay laurel or bay leaf.lavaret: lake fish of the savoie, similar to salmon.léger (légère): light.légume: vegetable.lentilles (de puy): lentils (prized green lentils from the village of puy in the auvergne).lieu jaune: green pollack, in the cod family a pleasant, inexpensive small yellow fish; often sold under name colin; found in the atlantic.lieu noir: pollack, also called black cod; in the cod family a pleasant, inexpensive fish found in the english channel and the atlantic.lièvre (à la royale): hare (cooked with red wine, shallots, onions, and cinnamon, then rolled and stuffed with foie gras and truffles).limaces à la suçarelle: snails cooked with onions, garlic, tomatoes, and sausage; specialty of pro vence.limaçon: land snail.limande: lemon sole, also called dab or sand dab, not as firm or prized as sole, found in the english channel, the atlantic, and, rarely, in the mediterranean.lingot: type of kidney shaped dry white bean.lisette: small maquereau, or mackerel.livarot: village in normandy that gives its name to an elastic and pungent thick disc of cow’s milk cheese with reddish golden stripes around the edge.lotte: monkfish or angler fish, a large firm fleshed ocean fish.lotte de rivière (or de lac): fine fleshed river (or lake) fish, prized for its large and flavorful liver. not related to the ocean fish lotte, or monkfish.lou magret: breast of fattened duck.loup de mer: wolf fish or ocean catfish; name for sea bass in the mediterranean.louvine: basque name for striped bass, fished in the bay of gascony.lucullus: a classic, elaborate garnish of truffles cooked in madeira and stuffed with chicken forcemeat.lumas: name for land snail in the poitou charentes region along the atlantic coast.luzienne, à la: prepared in the manner popular in saint jean de luz, a basque fishing port.lyonnaise, à la: in the style of lyon; often garnished with onions. macaron: macaroon, small cookie of almonds, egg whites, and sugar.macaronade: a rich blend of wild and domestic mushrooms and chunks of foie gras, smothered in fresh pasta; specialty of the southwest. also, macaroni with mushrooms, bacon, white wine, and parmesan cheese; an accompaniment to a beef stew, or daube; specialty of provence.macédoine: diced mixed fruit or vegetables.mâche: dark small leafed salad green known as lamb’s lettuce or corn salad. also called doucette.mâchon: early morning snack of sausage, wine, cheese, and bread; also, the café that offers the snack; particular to lyon.macis: mace, the spice.madeleine (de commercy): small scalloped shaped tea cake made famous by marcel proust; (the town in the lorraine where the tea cakes are commercialized).madère: madeira.madrilène, à la: in the style of madrid; with tomatoes. classically a garnish of peeled chopped tomatoes for consommé.magret de canard (or d’oie): breast of fattened duck (or goose).maigre: thin, non fatty; giant seabass from mediterranean and atlantic.maïs: corn.maison, de la: of the house, or restaurant.maître d’hôtel: headwaiter. also, sauce of butter, parsley and lemon.maltaise: orange flavored hollandaise sauce.malvoisie, vinaigre de: vinegar made from the malvasia grape, used for the sweet, heavy malmsey wine.mandarine: tangerine.mange tout: “eat it all”; a podless green runner bean; a sweet pea; a snow pea. also, a variety of apple.mangue: mango.manière, de: in the style of.maquereau: mackerel; lisette is a small mackerel.mara de bois: small fragrant strawberry, like a cross between a domestic and wild strawberry.maraîchèr(e) (à la): market gardener or truck farmer (market garden style; usually refers to a dish or salad that includes various greens).marbré: striped sea bream, mediterranean fish that is excellent grilled.marc: eau de vie distilled from pressed grape skins and seeds or other fruits.marcassin: young boar. at one year, a wild boar will weight 40 kg, a domesticated boar 120 kg.marchand de vin: wine merchant. also, sauce made with red wine, meat stock, and chopped shallots.marée la: literally “the tide”; usually used to indicate seafood that is fresh.marennes: flat shelled green tinged plate oyster. also the french coastal village where flat shelled oysters are raised.marinade: seasoned liquid in which food, usually meat, is soaked for several hours. the liquid seasons and tenderizes at the same time.mariné: marinated.marjolaine: marjoram. also, multilayered chocolate and nut cake.marmelade: traditionally a thick purée of fruit, or sweet stewed fruit; today purée of vegetable, or stewed vegetables.marmite: small covered pot; also a dish cooked in a small casserole.maroilles: village in the north that gives its name to a strong tasting, thick, square cow’s milk cheese with a pale brick red rind.marquise (au chocolat): mousse like (chocolate) cake.marron (glacé): large (candied) chestnut.matelote (d’anguilles): freshwater fish (or eel) stew.matignon: a garnish of mixed stewed vegetables.mauviette: wild meadow lark or skylark.médaillon: round piece or slice, usually of fish or meat.mélange: mixture or blend.méli mélo: an assortment of fish and/or seafood.melon de cavaillon: small canteloupe like melon from cavaillon, a town in provence known for its wholesale produce market.ménagère, à la: “in the style of the housewife”; usually a simple preparation including onions, pota toes, and carrots.mendiant, fruits du: traditional mixture of figs, almonds, hazelnuts, and raisins, whose colors suggest the robes of the mendicant friars it is named after.menthe: mint.merguez: small spicy sausage.merlan: whiting.merle: blackbird.merlu: hake, a member of the codfish family often sold improperly in paris markets as colin; found in the english channel, atlantic, and mediterranean.mérou: a large grouper, an excellent tropical or near tropical fish, generally imported from north africa but sometimes found in the atlantic and mediterranean.merveille: hot sugared doughnut.mesclum, mesclun: a mixture of at least seven multi shaded salad greens from provence.mets: dish or preparation.mets selon la saison: seasonal preparation; according to the season.méture: corn bread from the basque region.meule: “millstone”; name for wheel of cheese in the jura.meunière, à la: “in the style of the miller’s wife”; refers to a fish that is seasoned, rolled in flour, fried in butter; and served with lemon, parsley and hot melted butter.meurette: in, or with, a red wine sauce. also, a burgundian fish stew.mi cru: half raw.mi cuit: half cooked.miche: a large round country style loaf of bread. also, basque name for aniseed cake like bread.mie: interior or crumb of the bread (see pain de mie).miel: honeymignardise: see petit four.mignon de canard: see demoiselle de canard.mignonette: small cubes, usually of beef. also refers to coarsely ground black ot white pepper.mijoté(e) (plat): simmered (dish or preparation).mille feuille: refers to puff pastry with many thin layers; usually a cream filled rectangle of puff pastry, or a napoleon.mimosa: garnish of chopped hard cooked egg yolks.minute (à la): “minute”; something quickly grilled or fried in butter with lemon juice and parsley (prepared at the last minute).mique: generally a large breaded dumpling, poached and served with stews and meats; specialty of the southwest.mirabeau: garnish of anchovies, pitted olives, tarragon, and anchovy butter.mirabelle: small sweet yellow plum. also, colorless fruit brandy or eau de vie, made from yellow plums.mirepoix: cubes of carrots and onions or mixed vegetables, usually used in braising to boost the flavor of a meat dish.miroir: “mirror”; a dish that has a smooth glaze; currently a fruit mousse cake with a layer of fruit glaze on top.miroton (de): slice (of). also, stew of meats flavored with onions.mitonnée: a simmered, soup like dish.mode de, à la: in the style of.moëlle: beef bone marrow.mogette, mojette, mougette: a kind of dried white bean from the atlantic coast.moka: refers to coffee; coffee flavored dish.mollusque: mollusk.mont blanc: rich classic pastry of baked meringue, chestnut purée, and whipped cream.montagne, de la: from the mountains.montmorency: garnished with cherries; historically a village known for its cherries, now a suburb of paris.morbier: supple cow’s milk cheese from the jura; a thin sprinkling of ashes in the center gives it its distinctive black stripe and light smoky flavor.morceau: piece or small portion.morille: wild morel mushroom, dark brown and conical.mornay: classic cream sauce enriched with egg yolks and cheese.morue: salt cod; also currently used to mean fresh cod, which is cabillaud.morvandelle, jambon à la: in the style of the morvan (ham in a piquant creamy sauce made with white wine, vinegar, juniper berries, shallots, and cream).morvandelle, râpée: grated potato mixed with eggs, cream, and cheese, baked until golden.mosaïque: “mosaic”; a presentation of mixed ingredients.mostèle: forkbeard mostelle; small mediterranean fish of the cod family.mouclade: creamy mussel stew from the poitou charentes on the atlantic coast, generally flavored with curry or saffron.moufflon: wild sheep.moule: mussel. also a mold.moule de bouchot: small, highly prized cultivated mussel, raised on stakes driven into the sediment of shallow coastal beds.moule de bouzigues: iodine strong mussel from the village of bouzigues, on the mediterranean coast.moule d’espagne: large, sharp shelled mussel, often served raw as part of a seafood platter.moule de parques: dutch cultivated mussel, usually raised in fattening beds or diverted ponds.moules marinière: mussels cooked in white wine with onions, shallots, butter, and herbs.moulin (à poivre): mill (peppermill); also used for oil and flour mills.mourone: basque name for red bell pepper.mourtayrol, mourtaïrol: a pot au feu of boiled beef, chicken, ham, and vegetables, flavored with saf fron and served over slices of bread; specialty of the auvergne.mousse: light, airy mixture usually containing eggs and cream, either sweet or savory.mousseline: refers to ingredients that are usually lightened with whipped cream or egg whites, as in sauces, or with butter, as in brioche mousseline.mousseron: tiny, delicate, wild mushroom.moutarde (à l’ancienne, en graines): mustard (old style, coarse grained).mouton: mutton.muge: grey mullet.mulard: breed of duck common to the southwest, fattened for its delicate liver, for foie gras.mulet: the generic group of mullet, found in the english channel, atlantic, and mediterranean.munster: village in alsace that gives its name to a disc of soft, tangy cow’s milk cheese with a brick red rind and a penetrating aroma; the cheese is also sometimes cured with cumin seeds.mûre (de ronces): blackberry (bush).muscade: nutmeg.muscat de hambourg: variety of popular purple table grape, grown in provence.museau de porc (or de boeuf): vinegared pork (or beef) muzzle.myrtille: bilberry (bluish black european blueberry).mystère: truncated cone shaped ice cream dessert. also, dessert of cooked meringue with ice cream and chocolate cake. nage (à la): “swimming”; aromatic poaching liquid (served in).nantua: sauce of crayfish, butter, cream, and, traditionally truffles; also garnish of crayfish.nappé: covered, as with a sauce.natte: woven loaf of bread.nature: refers to simple, unadorned preparations.navarin: lamb or mutton stew.navarraise, à la: navarre style, with sweet peppers, onions, and garlic.navet: turnip.navette: “little boat”; small pastry boats.nèfle: medlar; also called japanese loquat; tart fruit that resembles an apricot and taste like a mango.neufchâtel: white, creamy, delicate (and often heart shaped) cow’s milk cheese, named for village in normandy where it is made.newburg: lobster preparation with madeira, egg yolks, and cream.nivernaise, à la: in the style of nevers; with carrots and onions.noilly: a vermouth based sauce.noisette: hazelnut; also refers to small round piece (such as from a potato), generally the size of a ha zelnut, lightly browned in butter. also, center cut of lamb chop. also, dessert flavored with hazelnuts.noix: general term for nut; also, walnut. also, nut size, typically une noix de beurre, or lump of butter.noix de veau: round fillet of vealnon compris: see service (non) compris.nonat: small river fish in provence, usually fried. also known as poutine.normande: in the style of normandy; sauce of seafood, cream, and mushrooms. also refers to fish or meat cooked with apple cider or calvados; or dessert with apples, usually served with cream.note: another word for addition, bill or tab.nougat: candy of roasted almonds, egg whites, and honey; specialty of montélimar.nougat glacé: frozen dessert of whipped cream and candied fruit.nouilles: noodles.nouveau, nouvelle: new or young.nouveauté: a new offering. oeuf: egg.à la coque: soft cooked egg.brouillé: scrambled egg.dur: hard cooked egg.en meurette: poached egg in red wine sauce.mollet: egg simmered in water for 6 minutes.poché: poached egg.sauté à la poêle or oeuf sur le plat: fried egg.oeufs à la neige: “eggs in the snow”; sweetened whipped egg whites poached in milk and served with vanilla custard sauce.offert: offered; free or given.oie: goose.oignon: onion.oiselle: sorrel.olive noire (verte): black olive (green olive).olives cassées: fresh green olives cured in a rich fennel infused brine; specialty of provence.olive de nyons: wrinkled black olive, first olive in france to receive aoc. also used for oil.omble (ombre) chevalier: lake fish, similar to salmon trout, with firm, flaky flesh varying from white to deep red. found in lakes in the savoie.omelette norvegienne: french version of baked alaska; a concoction of sponge cake covered with ice cream and a layer of sweetened, stiffly beaten egg whites, then browned quickly in the oven.onglet: cut similar to beef flank steak; also cut of beef sold as biftek and entrecôte, usually a tough cut, but better than flank steak.oreille de porc: cooked pig’s ear; served grilled, with a coating of egg and bread crumb.oreillette: thin, crisp rectangular dessert fritters, flavored with orange flower water; specialty of pro vence.orge (perlé): barley (pearl barley).orientale, à l’: general name for vaguely eastern dishes cooked with saffron, tomatoes, and sweet red peppers.origan: oregano.ortie: nettle.oseille: sorrel.osso bucco à la niçoise: sautéed veal braised with tomatoes, garlic, onions, and orange zest; spe cialty of the mediterranean.ostréiculteur: oyster grower.oursin: sea urchin.oursinade: creamy sea urchin soup.ouvert: open. pageot: a type of sea bream or porgy. the finest is pageot rouge, wonderful grilled. pageot blanc is drier and needs to be marinated in oil before cooking.paillarde (de veau): thick slice (of veal); also, piece of meat pounded flat and sauteéed.pailles (pommes): fried potato sticks.paillette: cheese straw, usually made with puff pastry and parmesan cheese.pain: bread. also, loaf of any kind.aux cinq céréales: five grain bread.aux noix (aux noisettes): bread, most often rye or wheat, filled with walnuts (hazelnuts).aux raisins: bread, most often rye or wheat, filled with raisins.azyme: unleavened bread, matzoh.bis: brown bread.brié: very dense, elongated loaf of unsalted white bread; specialty of normandy.complet: bread made partially or entirely from whole wheat flour, with bakers varying proportions according to their personal tastes.cordon: seldom found regional country loaf decorated with a strip of dough.d’aix: variously shaped sourdough loaves, sometimes like a sunflower, other times a chain like loaf of four linked rounds.de campagne: country loaf; can vary from a white bread simply dusted with flour to give it a rustic look (and fetch a higher price) to a truly hearty loaf that may be a blend of white, whole wheat, and perhaps rye flour with bran added. comes in every shape.décoré: decorated.de fantaisie: generally any odd or imaginatively shaped bread. even baguette de campagne falls into this category.de gênes: classic almond sponge cake.de mie: rectangular white sandwich loaf that is nearly all mie (interior crumb) and very little crust. it is made for durability, its flavor and texture developed for use in sandwiches. unlike most french breads, it contains milk, sugar, and butter, and may contain chemical preservatives.d’épices: spice bread, a specialty of dijon.de seigle: bread made from 60 to 70 percent rye flour and 30 to 40 percent wheat flour.de son: legally a dietetic bread that is quality controlled, containing 20 percent bran mixed with white flour.grillé: toast.paillé: country loaf from the basque region.sans sel: salt free bread.viennois: bread shaped like a baguette, with regular horizontal slashes, usually containing white flour, sugar, powdered milk, water, and yeast.paleron: shoulder of beef.palette: upper shoulder of pork.palestine: classically a garnish of jerusalem artichokes.palmier: palm leaf shaped cookie made of sugared puff pastry.palmier, coeur de: heart of palm.palombe: wood or wild pigeon, or dove.palourde: prized medium size clam.pamplemousse: grapefruit.pan bagna: large round bread roll, split, brushed with olive oil, and filled with a variable mixture including anchovies, onions, black olives, green peppers, tomatoes, and celery; cafe specialty from nice.panaché: mixed; now liberally used menu term to denote any mixture.panade: panada, a thick mixture used to bind forcemeats and quenelles, usually flour and butter based, but can also contain fresh or toasted bread crumbs, rice, or potatoes. also refers to soup of bread, milk, and sometimes cheese.panais: parnsip.pané(e): breaded.panisse: a thick fried pancake of chickpea flour, served as accompaniment to meat; specialty of provence.pannequet: rolled crêpe, filled and/or covered with sweet or savory mixture.panoufle: generally discarded belly flap from saddle of lamb, veal, and beef; sometimes grilled.pantin: small pork pastry.papeton: eggplant, fried, puréed, and cooked in a ring mold; specialty of provence.papillon: “butterfly”; small crinkle shelled creuse oyster from the atlantic coast.papillote, en: cooked in parchment paper or foil wrapping.paquet (en): (in) a package or parcel.parfait: a dessert mousse; also, mousse like mixture of chicken, duck, or goose liver.parfum: flavor.paris brest, gâteau: classic, large, crown shaped choux pastry filled with praline butter cream and topped with chopped almonds.parisienne, à la: varied vegetable garnish which generally includes potato balls that have been fried and tossed in a meat glaze.parmentier: dish with potatoes.passe crassane: flavorful variety of winter pear.passe pierre: edible seaweed.pastèque: watermelon.pastis: anise flavored alcohol that becomes cloudy when water is added (the most famous brands are pernod and ricard). also, name for tourtière, the flaky prune pastry from the southwest.pastiza: see gâteau basque.pata négra (jambon): prized ham from spain, literally “black feet.”patagos: clam.pâte: pastry or dough.brisée: pie pastryd’amande: almond paste.sablée: sweeter, richer, and more crumbly pie dough than pâte sucrée, sometimes leavened.sucrée: sweet pie pastry.pâté: minced meat that is molded, spiced, baked, and served hot or cold.pâtes (fraîches): pasta (fresh).patte blanche: small crayfish no larger than 2 1/2 ounces (75 g).patte rouge: large crayfish.pauchouse, pochouse: stew of river fish that generally includes tanche (tench), perche (perch), brochet (pike), and anguille (eel); specialty of burgundypaupiette: slice of meat or fish, filled, rolled, then wrapped; served warm.pavé: “paving stone”; usually a thick slice of boned beef or calf’s liver. also, a kind of pastry.pavé d’auge: thick, ochre colored square of cow’s milk cheese that comes from the auge area of normandy.pavot (graine de): poppy (seed).paysan(ne) (à la): country style; (garnish of carrots, turnips, onions, celery and bacon).peau: skin.pèbre d’ail: see poivre d’âne.pêche: peach. also, fishing.pêche alexandra: cold dessert of poached peaches with ice cream and puréed strawberries.pêche melba: poached peach with vanilla ice cream and raspberry sauce.pêcheur: “fisherman”; usually refers to fish preparations.pélandron: see haricot gris.pélardon: small flat, dried, pungent disc of goat’s milk cheese; specialty of the languedoc.pèlerine: another name for scallop or coquille saint jacques.péptie (au chocolat): nugget; (chocolate chip).pequillo: small red spanish pepper, usually stuffed with salt cod purée.perce pierre: samphire, edible seaweed.perche: perch.perdreau: young partridge.perdrix: partridge.périgourdine, à la, or périgueux: sauce, usually with truffles and foie gras, named for the périgord in southwestern france.persil (plat): parsley (flatleaf).persillade: blend of chopped parsley and garlic.persillé: “parsleyed”; describes certain blue veined cheeses. see also jambon persillé.pet de nonne: “nun’s fart”; small, dainty beignets, or fried pastry.pétale: “petal”; very thin slice.petit beurre: popular tea cookie made with butter.petit déjeuner: breakfast.petit four (sucré or salée): tiny cake or pastry (sweet or savory); in elegant restaurants, served with cocktails before dinner or with coffee afterward; also called mignardise.petit gris: small land snail.petit pois: small green pea.petit salé: salt cured portions of lean pork belly, often served with lentils.petite marmite: earthenware casserole; the broth served from it.pétoncle: tiny scallop, similar to american bay scallop.pibale: tiny eel, also called civelle.picholine, pitchouline: a variety of green olive, generally used to prepare olives casseés; specialty of provence.picodon (méthode dieulefit): small disc of goat’s milk cheese, the best of which (qualified as méthode dieulefit) is hard, piquant, and pungent from having soaked in brandy and aged a month in earthenware jars; specialty of northern provence.pièce: portion, piece.piech: poached veal brisket stuffed with vegetables, herbs, and sometimes rice, ham, eggs, or cheese; specialty of the mediterranean.pied de cheval: “horse’s foot”; giant atlantic coast oyster.pied de mouton: meaty cream colored wild mushroom. also, sheep’s foot.pieds et paquets: “feet and packages”; mutton tripe rolled and cooked with sheep’s feet, white wine, and tomatoes; specialty of provence and the mediterranean.pierre qui vire: “stone that moves”; a supple, tangy, flat disc of cow’s milk cheese with a reddish rind, made by the benedictine monks at the abbaye de la pierre qui vire in burgundy.pigeon (neau): pigeon or squab (young pigeon or squab).pignons: pine nuts, found in the cones of pine trees growing in provence and along the southwestern atlantic coast.pilau, pilaf: rice sautéed with onion and simmered in broth.pilchard: name for sardines on the atlantic coast.piment: red pepper or pimento.piment (or poivre) de jamaïque: allspice.piment d’espelette: slender, mildly hot chile pepper from espelette, a village in the basque region.piment doux: sweet pepper.pimenté: hot, peppery, spicy.pimpernelle: salad burnet, a salad green with a somewhat bitter taste.pince: claw. also, tongs used when eating snails or seafood.pineau des charentes: sweet fortified wine from the cognac region on the atlantic coast, served as an aperitif.pintade(au): (young) guinea fowl.pipérade: a dish of pepper; onions, tomatoes, and often ham and scrambled eggs; specialty of the basque region.piquant(e): sharp or spicy tasting.piqué: larded; studded.piquenchagne, picanchagne: a pear tart with walnut or brioche crust; specialty of the bourbonnais, a province in auvergne.pissaladière: a flat open face tart like a pizza, garnished with onions, olives, and anchovies; specialty of nice.pissenlit: dandelion green.pistache: pistachio nut.pistil de safran: thread of saffron.pistou: sauce of basil, garlic, and olive oil; specialty of provence. also a rich vegetable, bean, and pasta soup flavored with pistou sauce.pithiviers: a town in the loire valley that gives its name to a classic large puff pastry found filled with almond cream. also, lark pâté.plaice: a small, orange spotted flounder or fluke, a flat ocean fish; also known as plie franch or carrelet. found in the english channel.plat cuisiné: dish containing ingredients that have cooked together, usually in a sauce.plat du jour: today’s special.plat principal: main dish.plate: flat shelled oyster.plateau: platter.plateau de fruits de mer: seafood platter combining raw and cooked shell fish; usually includes oys ters, clams, mussels, langoustines, periwinkles, whelks, crabs, and tiny shrimp.plates côtes: part of beef ribs usually used in pot au feu.pleurote: very soft fleshed, feather edged wild mushrooms; also now being cultivated commercially in several regions of france.plie: see plaice.plombière: classic dessert of vanilla ice cream, candied fruit, kirsch, and apricot jam.pluche: small sprig of herbs or plants, generally used for garnish.poché: poached.pochouse: see pauchouse.poêlé: pan fried.pogne: brioche flavored with orange flower water and filled with fruits; specialty of romans sur  isère, in the rhône alpes.point(e) (d’asperge): tip (of asparagus).point (à): ripe or ready to eat, the perfect moment for eating a cheese or fruit. also, cooked medium rare.poire: pear.poire william’s: variety of pear; colorless fruit brandy, or eau de vie, often made from this variety of pear.poireau: leek.pois (chiche): pea (chickpea).poisson: fish.d’eau douce: freshwater fish.de lac: lake fish.de mer: ocean fish.de rivière: river fish.de roche: rock fish.fumé: smoked fish.noble: refers to prized, thus expensive, variety of fish.poitrine: breast (of meat or poultry).poitrine demi sel: unsmoked slab bacon.poitrine d’oie fumée: smoked goose breast.poitrine fumée: smoked slab bacon.poivrade: a peppery brown sauce made with wine, vinegar, and cooked vegetables and strained before serving.poivre: pepper.d’ain: provençal name for wild savory. also, small goat cheese covered with sprigs of savory. also known as pèbre d’ail and pèbre d’ase.en grain: peppercorn.frais de madagascar: green peppercorn.gris: black peppercorn.moulu: ground pepper.noir: black peppercorn.rose: pink peppercorn.vert: green peppercorn.poivron (doux): (sweet bell) pepper.pojarski: finely chopped meat or fish shaped like a cutlet and fried.polenta: cooked dish of cornmeal and water, usually with added butter and cheese; also, cornmeal.pommade (beurre en): usually refers to a thick, smooth paste; (creamed butter).pomme: apple.pommes de terre: potatoes.à l’anglaise: boiled.allumettes: “match sticks”; fries cut into very thin julienne.boulangère: potatoes cooked with the meat they accompany. also, a gratin of sliced potatoes, baked with milk or stock and sometimes flavored with onions, bacon, and tomatoes.darphin: grated potatoes shaped into a cake.dauphine: mashed potatoes mixed with choux pastry, shaped into small balls and fried.dauphinoise: a gratin of sliced potatoes, baked with milk and/or cream, garlic, cheese, and eggs.duchesse: mashed potatoes with butter, egg yolks, and nutmeg, used for garnish.en robe des champs, en robe de chambre: potatoes boiled or baked in their skin; potatoes in their jackets.frites: french fries.gratinées: browned potatoes, often with cheese.lyonnaise: potatoes sautéed with onions.macaire: classic side dish of puréed potatoes shaped into small balls and fried or baked in a flat cake.mousseline: potato purée enriched with butter, egg yolks, and whipped cream.paillasson: fried pancake of grated potatoes.pailles: potatoes cut into julienne strips, then fried.pont neuf: classic fries.sarladaise: sliced potatoes cooked with goose fat and (optionally) truffles.soufflées: small, thin slices of potatoes fried twice, causing them to inflate so they resemble little pillows.sous la cèndre: baked under cinders in a fireplace.vapeur: steamed or boiled potatoes.pommes en l’air: caramelized apple slices, usually served with boudin noir (blood sausage).pompe à l’huile, pompe de noël: see gibassier.pompe aux grattons: bread containing cracklings.pont l’evêque: village in normandy that gives its name to a very tender, fragrant square of cow’s milk cheese.porc (carré de): pork (loin).porc (côte de): pork (chop).porcelet: young suckling pig.porchetta: young pig stuffed with offal, herbs, and garlic, and toasted; seen in charcuteries in nice.porto (au): (with) port.portugaise: elongated, crinkle shell oyster.pot au feu: traditional dish of beef simmered with vegetables, often served in two or mote courses; today chefs often use it to mean fish poached in fish stock with vegetables.pot bouilli: another name for pot au feu.pot de crème: individual classic custard dessert, often chocolate.potage: soup.potée: traditional hearty meat soup, usually containing pork, cabbage, and potatoes.potimarron: see citrouille.potiron: see citrouille.potjevleisch: a mixed meat terrine, usually of veal, pork, and rabbit; specialty of the north.poularde: fatted hen.poule au pot: boiled stuffed chicken with vegetables; specialty of the city of béarn in the southwest.poule d’inde: turkey hen.poule faisane: female pheasant.poulet (rôti): chicken (roast).basquaise: basque style chicken, with tomatoes and sweet peppers.de bresse: high quality chicken raised on farms to exacting specifcations, from the rhône alpes.de grain: corn fed chicken.fermier: free range chicken.poulette: tiny chicken.pouligny saint pierre: village in the loire valley that gives its name to a goat’s milk cheese shaped like a truncated pyramid with a mottled, grayish rind and a smooth grained, ivory white interior.poulpe: octopus.pounti: (also spelled pounty) a pork meat loaf that generally includes swiss chard or spinach, eggs, milk, herbs, onions, and prunes; specialty of the auvergne.pousse en claire: oysters that have been aged and fattened in claire, or oyster beds, for four to eight months.pousse pierre: edible sea weed; also called sea beans.poussin: baby chicken.poutargue, boutargue: salted, pressed, and flattened mullet roe, generally spread on toast as an appetizer; specialty of provence and the mediterranean.poutine: see nonat.praire: small clam.pralin: ground caramelized almonds.praline: caramelized almonds.pré salé (agneau de): delicately salted lamb raised on the salt marshes of normandy and the atlantic coast.presskoph: pork headcheese, often served with vinaigrette; specialty of alsace.primeur(s): refers to early fresh fruits and vegetables, also to new wine.printanière: garnish of a variety of spring vegetables cut into dice or balls.prix fixe: fixed price menu.prix net: service included.profiterole(s): classic chou pastry dessert, usually puffs of pastry filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with hot chocolate sauce.provençale: in the style of provence; usually includes garlic, tomatoes, and/or olive oil.prune (d’ente): fresh plum; (variety of plum grown in the famed agen region of the southwest).pruneau: prune.puits d’amour: “wells of love”; classic small pastry crowns filled with pastry cream. quasi (de veau): standing rump (of veal).quatre épices: spice blend of ground ginger, nutmeg, white pepper, and cloves.quatre quarts: “four quarters”; pound cake made with equal weights of eggs, flour, butter, and sugar.quenelle: dumpling, usually of veal, fish, or poultry.quetsche: small purple damson plum.queue (de boeuf): tail (of beef; oxtail).quiche lorraine: savory custard tart made with bacon, eggs, and cream. râble de lièvre (lapin): saddle of hare (rabbit).raclette: rustic dish, from switzerland and the savoie, of melted cheese served with boiled potatoes, tiny pickled cucumbers, and onions; also, the cheese used in the dish.radis: small red radish.radis noir: large black radish, often served with cream, as a salad.rafraîchi: cool, chilled, or fresh.ragoût: stew; usually of meat.raie (bouclée): skate or ray, found in the english channel, atlantic, and mediterranean.raifort: horseradish.raisin: grape; raisin.de corinthe: currant.de smyrne: sultana.sec: raisin.raïto: red wine sauce that generally includes onions, tomatoes, garlic, herbs, olives, and capers, usually served warm over grilled fish; specialty of provence.ramequin: small individual casserole. also, a small tart. also, a small goat’s milk cheese from the bugey, an area in the northern rhône valley.ramier: wood or wild pigeon.râpé: grated or shredded.rascasse: gurnard, or scorpion fish in the rockfish family; an essential ingredient of bouillabaisse, the fish stew of the mediterranean.ratafia: liqueur made by infusing nut or fruit in brandy.ratatouille: a cooked dish of eggplant, zucchini, onions, tomatoes, peppers, garlic, and olive oil, served hot or cold; specialty of provence.ratte: small, bite size potatoes, often used for purées.ravigote: classic thick vinaigrette sauce with vinegar, white wine, shallots, and herbs. also, cold mayonnaise with capers, onions, and herbs.raviole de royans: tiny ravioli pasta filled with goat cheese, from the rhône alpes.ravioli à la niçoise: square or round pasta filled with meat and/or swiss chard and baked with grated cheese.reblochon: smooth, supple, creamy cow’s milk cheese from the savoie in the alps.réglisse: licorice.reine claude: greengage plum.reinette, reine de: fall and winter variety of apple, deep yellow with a red blush.religieuse, petite: “nun”; a small version of a classic pastry consisting of two choux puffs filled with chocolate, coffee, or vanilla pastry cream, placed one on top of another, and frosted with chocolate or coffee icing to resemble a nun in her habit.rémoulade (céleri): sauce of mayonnaise, capers, mustard, herbs, anchovies, and gherkins; (dish of shredded celery root with mayonnaise).repas: meal.rhuharbe: rhubarb.rhum: rum.rigotte: small cow’s milk cheese from the lyon region.rillettes (d’oie): minced spread of pork (goose); can also be made with duck, fish, or rabbit.rillons: usually pork belly, cut up and cooked until crisp, then drained of fat; also made of duck, goose, or rabbit.ris d’agneau (de veau): lamb (veal) sweetbreads.rissolé: browned by frying, usually potatoes.riz: rice.à l’impératrice: cold rice pudding with candied fruit.complet: brown rice.de camargue: nutty, fragrant rice grown in the camargue, the swampy area just south of arles in provence.sauvage: wild rice.rizotto, risotto: creamy rice made by stirring rice constantly in stock as it cooks, then mixing in other ingredients such as cheese or mushrooms.robe des champs, robe de chambre (pommes en): potatoes boiled or baked in their skin; potatoes in their jackets.rocamadour: village in southwestern france which gives its name to a tiny disc of cheese, once made of pure goat’s or sheep’s milk, now generally either goat’s milk or a blend of goat’s and cow’s milk. also called cabécou.rognonnade: veal loin with kidneys attached.rognons: kidneys.rollot: spicy cow’s milk cheese with a washed ochre colored rind, in small cylinder or heart shape; from the north.romanoff: fruit, often strawberries, macerated in liqueur and topped with whipped cream.romarin: rosemary.rondelle: round slice  of lemon, for example.roquefort: disc of blue veined cheese of raw sheep’s milk from southwestern france, aged in village of roquefort sur soulzon.roquette: rocket or arugula, a spicy salad green.rosé: rare; used for lamb, veal, duck, or liver. also, rose colored wine.rosette (de boeuf): large dried pork (beef) sausage, from area around lyon.rôti: roast; meat roast.rouelle: slice of meat or vegetable cut at an angle.rouennaise (canard à la): in the style of rouen; (classic dish of duck stuffed with its liver in a blood thickened sauce).rouget barbet, rouget de roche: red mullet, a prized, expensive rock fish, with sweet flesh and red skin; its flavorful liver is reserved for sauces.rouget grondin: red gurnard, a large, common rockfish, less prized than rouget barbet. a variety of galinette. an ingredient in bouillabaisse.rougette: a small red leafed butterhead lettuce, specialty of provence.rouille: mayonnaise of olive oil, garlic, chile peppers, bread, and fish broth; usually served with fish soups, such as bouillabaisse.roulade: meat or fish roll, or rolled up vegetable soufflé; larger than a paupiette, and often stuffed.roulé(e): rolled.roussette: dogfish, also called salmonette because of its pinkish skin, found on the atlantic coast. good when very fresh.roux: sauce base or thickening of flour and butter.rove: breed of goat; also small round of provençal soft goat’s cheese, fragrant with wild herbs.royale, à la: “royal style”; rich classic preparation, usually with truffles and a cream sauce.rumsteck: rump steak. sabayon, zabaglione: frothy sweet sauce of egg yolks, sugar, wine, and flavoring that is whipped while being cooked in a water bath.sabodet: strong, earthy pork sausage of pig’s head and skin, served hot; specialty of lyon.safran: saffron.saignant(e): cooked rare, for meat, usually beef.saindoux: lard or pork fat.saint germain: with peas.saint hubert: poivrade sauce with chestnuts and bacon added.saint jacques, coquille: sea scallop.saint marcellin: small flat disc of cow’s milk cheese (once made of goat’s milk) made in dairies in the isère, outside lyon. the best is well aged and runny. found in paris, the lyons area, and northern provence.saint nectaire: village in the auvergne that gives its name to a supple, thick disc of cow’s milk cheese with a mottled gray rind.saint pierre: john dory, a prized mild, flat, white ocean fish. known as soleil and jean doré in the north, and poule de mer along the atlantic coast.saint vincent: moist, buttery, thick cylinder of cow’s milk cheese from burgundy with a rust colored rind; similar to époisses, but aged a bit longer, therefore stronger.sainte maure: village in the loire valley that gives its name to a soft, elongated cylinder of goat’s milk cheese with a distinctive straw in the middle and a mottled, natural blue rind.salade: salad; also, a head of lettuce.folle: mixed salad, usually including green beans and foie gras.lyonnaise: green salad with cubed bacon and soft cooked eggs, often served with herring and anchovies, and/or sheep’s feet and chicken livers; specialty of lyon; also called saladier lyonnais.niçoise: salad with many variations, but usually with tomatoes, green beans, anchovies, tuna, potatoes, black olives, capers, and artichokes.panachée: mixed salad.russe: cold mixed salad of peas and diced carrots and turnips in mayonnaise.verte: green salad.saladier (lyonnais): see salade lyonnaise.salé: salted.salers: cantal type cheese, made in rustic cheese making houses only when the cows are in the auvergne’s mountain pastures, from may to september.salicorne: edible seaweed, sea string bean; often pickled and served as a condiment.salmis: classic preparation of roasted game birds or poultry, with sauce made from the pressed carcass.salpicon: diced vegetables, meat, and/or fish in a sauce, used as a stuffing, garnish, or spread.salsifis: salsify, oyster plant.sandre: pickerel, perch like river fish, found in the saône and rhine.sang: blood.sanglier: wild boar.sangue: corsican black pudding usually with grapes or herbs.sanguine: “blood” orange, so named for its red juice.sansonnet: starling or thrush.sar, sargue: blacktail, a tiny flat fish of the sea bream family best grilled or baked.sarcelle: teal, a species of wild duck.sardine: small sardine. large sardines are called pilchards. found year round in the mediterranean, from may to october in the atlantic.sarladaise: as prepared in sarlat in the dordogne; with truffles.sarrasin: buckwheat.sarriette: summer savory. see poivre d’ain.saucisse: small fresh sausage.saucisse chaude: warm sausage.saucisse de francfort: hot dog.saucisse de strasbourg: redskinned hot dog.saucisse de toulouse: mild country style pork sausage.saucisson: most often, a large air dried sausage, such as salami, eaten sliced as a cold cut; when fresh, usually called saucisson chaud, or hot sausage.saucisson à l’ail: garlic sausage, usually to be cooked and served warm.saucisson d’arles: dried salami style sausage that blends pork, beef and gentle seasoning; a specialty of arles, in provence.saucisson de campagne: any country style sausage.saucisson de lyon: air dried pork sausage, flavored with garlic and pepper and studded with chunks of pork fat.saucisson de morteau: see jésus de morteau.saucisson en croûte: sausage cooked in a pastry crust.saucisson sec: any dried sausage, or salami.sauge: sage.saumon (sauvage): salmon (“wild,” to differentiate from commercially raised salmon).saumon d’ecosse: scottish salmon.saumon de fontaine: small, commercially raised salmon.saumon fumé: smoked salmon.saumon norvégien: norwegian salmon.saumonette: see roussette.saupiquet: classic aromatic wine sauce thickened with bread.sauté: browned in fat.sauvage: wild.savarin: yeast leavened cake shaped like a ring, soaked in sweet syrup.savoie (biscuit de): sponge cake.savoyarde: in the style of savoy, usually flavored with gruyère cheese.scarole: escarole.schieffele, schieffala, schifela: smoked pork shoulder, served hot and garnished with pickled turnips or a potato and onion salad.sec (sèche): dry or dried.seiche: cuttlefish.seigle (pain de): rye (bread).sel gris: salt, unbleached sea salt.sel marin: sea salt.sel (gros): coarse salt.selle: saddle (of meat).selles sur cher: village in the loire valley identified with a small, flat, truncated cylinder of goat’s milk cheese with a mottled blueish gray rind (sometimes patted with powdered charcoal) and a pure white interior.selon grosseur (s.g.): according to size, usually said of lobster or other seafood.selon le marché: according to what is in season or available.selon poid (s.p.): according to weight, usually said of seafood.semoule: semolina or crushed wheat. also used in france as a savory garnish, particularly in north african dishes such as couscous.serpolet: wild thyme.service: meal, mealtime, the serving of the meal. a restaurant has two services if it serves lunch and dinner; a dish en deux services, like canard pressé. is served in two courses.service (non) compris: service charge (not) included in the listed menu prices (but invariably included on the bill).service en sus: service charge to be made in addition to menu prices. same as service non compris.simple: simple, plain, unmixed. also, a single scoop of ice cream.smitane: sauce of cream, onions, white wine, and lemon juice.socca: a very thin, round crêpe made with chickpea flour, sold on the streets of nice and eaten as a snack.soissons: dried or fresh white beans, from the area around soissons, northeast of paris.soja (pousse de): soy bean (soy bean sprout).soja, sauce de: soy sauce.solette: small sole.sommelier: wine waiter.sorbet: sherbet.sot l’y laisse: poultry oysters; translates literally as the 'fool leaves it there'soubise: onion sauce.soufflé: light, mixture of puréed ingredients, egg yolks, and whipped egg whites, which puffs up when baked; sweet or savory, hot or cold.soumaintrain: a spicy, supple flat disc of cow’s milk cheese with a red brown rind; from burgundy.soupir de nonne: “nun’s sighs”; fried choux pastry dusted with confectioners’ sugar. created by a nun in an alsatian abbey. also called pet de nonne.souris: “mouse”; muscle that holds the leg of lamb to the bone; lamb shanks.spätzel, spaetzle, spetzli: noodle like alsatian egg and flour dumpling, served poached or fried.spoom: wine or fruit juice mixed with egg whites, whipped, and frozen to create a frothy iced dessert.steak frites: classic french dish of grilled steak served with french fried potatoes.stockfish, stocaficada, estoficada, estoficado, morue plate: flattened, dried cod found in southern france. also, a purée like blend of dried codfish, olive oil, tomatoes, sweet peppers, black olives, potatoes, garlic, onions, and herbs; specialty of nice. sometimes served with pistou.strasbourgeoise, à la: ingredients typical of strasbourg including sauerkraut, foie gras, and salt pork.succès à la praline: cake made with praline meringue layers, frosted with meringue and butter cream.sucre: sugar.supion, supioun, suppion: cuttlefish.suprême: a veal  or chicken based white sauce thickened with flour and cream. also, a boneless breast of poultry or a filet of fish. table d’hôte: open table or board. often found in the countryside, these are private homes that serve fixed meals and often have one or two guest rooms as well.tablette (de chocolat): bar (of chocolate).tablier de sapeur: “fireman’s apron”; tripe that is marinated, breaded, and grilled; specialty of lyon.tacaud: pour or whiting pour, a small, inexpensive fish found in the atlantic and mediterranean, usually fried.tagine: spicy north african stew of veal, lamb, chicken, or pigeon, and vegetables.talmouse: savory pastry triangle of cheese flavored choux dough baked in puff pastry.tamié: flat disc of cheese, made of cow’s milk at the trappist monastery in the savoie village of tamié. similar to reblochon.tanche: tench, a river fish with a mild, delicate flavor; often an ingredient in matelote and pauchouse, freshwater fish stews.tapenade: a blend of black olives, anchovies, capers, olive oil, and lemon juice, sometimes with rum or canned tuna added; specialty of provence.tarama: carp roe, often made into a spread of the same name.tarbas: variety of large white bean, usually dried.tartare (de poisson): traditionally chopped raw beef, seasoned and garnished with raw egg, capers, chopped onion, and parsley; (today, a popular highly seasoned raw fish dish).tarte: tart; open face pie or flan, usually sweet.tarte encalat: name for cheesecake in the auvergne.tarte flambée: thin crusted savory tart, much like a rectangular pizza, covered with cream, onions, and bacon; specialty of alsace; also called flammekueche.tarte tatin: caramelized upside down apple pie, made famous by the tatin sisters in their hotel in lamotte beuvron, in the sologne; a popular dessert, seen on menus all over france.tartine: open face sandwich; buttered bread.tasse: cup; a coffee or tea cup.telline: a tiny violet streaked clam, the size of a fingernail, seen in provence and the camargue; generally seared with a bit of oil in a hot pan to open the shells and seasoned with parsley and garlic.tendre: tender.tendron: cartilaginous meat cut from beef or veal ribs.teurgoule: a sweet rice pudding with cinnamon; specialty of normandy.terrine: earthenware container used for cooking meat, game, fish, or vegetable mixtures; also the pâté cooked and served in such a container. it differs from a pâté proper in that the terrine is actually sliced out of the container, while a pâté has been removed from its mold.tête de veau (porc): head of veal (pork), usually used in headcheese.tétragone: spinach like green, found in provence.thé: tea.thermidor (homard): classic lobster dish; lobster split lengthwise, grilled, and served in the shell with a cream sauce.thon (blanc) (germon): tuna (white albacore).thon rouge: bluefin tuna.thym: thyme.tian: an earthenware gratin dish; also vegetable gratins baked in such a dish; from provence.tiède: lukewarm.tilleul: linden tree; linden blossom herb tea.timbale: small round mold with straight or sloping slides; also, a mixture prepared in such a mold.tomates à la provençale: baked tomato halves sprinkled with garlic, parsley, and bread crumbs.tomme: generic name for cheese, usually refers to a variety of cheeses in the savoie; also, the fresh cheese used to make cantal in the auvergne.tomme arlésienne: rectangular cheese made with a blend of goat’s and cow’s milk and sprinkled with summer savory; also called tomme de camargue; a specialty of the languedoc and arles, in provence.tomme fraîche: pressed cake of fresh milk curds, used in the regional dishes of the auvergne.topinambour: jerusalem artichoke.torréfiée: roasted, as in coffee beans and chocolate.toro (taureau): bull; meat found in butcher shops in the languedoc and pays basque, and some times on restaurant menus.torteau au fromage: goat cheese cheesecake from the poitou charentes along the atlantic coast; a blackened, spherical loaf found at cheese shops throughout france; once a homemade delicacy, today prepared industrially.tortue: turtle.toucy: village in burgundy that gives its name to a local fresh goat cheese.tourain, tourin, tourrin: generally a peasant soup of garlic, onions (and sometimes tomatoes), and broth or water, thickened with egg yolks and seasoned with vinegar; specialty of the southwest.tournedos: center portion of beef filet, usually grilled or sautéed.tournedos rossini: sautéed tournedos garnished with foie gras and truffles.touron: marzipan loaf, or a cake of almond paste, often layered and flavored with nuts or candied fruits and sold by the slice; specialty of the basque region.tourte (aux blettes): pie (common niçoise dessert pie filled with swiss chard, eggs, cheese, raisins, and pine nuts). also, name for giant rounds of country bread found in the auvergne and the southwest.tourteau: large crab.tourtière: shallow three legged cooking vessel, set over hot coals for baking. also, southwestern pas try dish filled with apples and/or prunes and sprinkled with armagnac.train de côtes: rib of beef.traiteur: caterer; delicatessen.tranche: slice.trappiste: name given to the mild, lactic cow’s milk cheese made in a trappist monastery in echourgnac, in the southwest.travers de porc: spareribs.trévise: radicchio, a bitter red salad green of the chicory family.tripes à la mode de caen: beef tripe, carrots, onions, leeks, and spices, cooked in water, cider, and calvados (apple brandy); specialty of normandy.triple crème: legal name for cheese containing more than 75 percent butterfat, such as brillat savarin.tripoux: mutton tripe.tripoxa: basque name for sheep’s or calf’s blood sausage served with spicy red espelette peppers.trompettes de la mort: dark brown wild mushroom, also known as “horn of plenty.”tronçon: cut of meat or fish resulting in a piece that is longer than it is wide; generally refers to slices from the largest part of a fish.trouchia: flat omelet filled with spinach or swiss chard; specialty of provence.truffade: a large layered and fried potato pancake made with bacon and fresh cantal cheese; spe cialty of the auvergne.truffe (truffé): truffle (with truffles).truffes sous la cendre: truffles wrapped in pastry or foil, gently warmed as they are buried in ashes.truite (au bleu): trout (a preferred method of cooking trout, not live, as often assumed, but rather in a “live condition.” the trout is gutted just moments prior to cooking, but neither washed nor scaled. it is then plunged into a hot mixture of vinegar and water, and the slimy lubricant that protects the skin of the fish appears to turn the trout a bluish color. the fish is then removed to a broth to finish its cooking.)de lac: lake trout.de mer: sea trout or brown trout.de rivière: river trout.saumoneé: salmon trout.ttoro: fish soup from the basque region. historically, the liquid that remained after poaching cod was seasoned with herbs and used to cook vegetables and potatoes. today, a more elaborate version includes the addition of lotte, mullet, mussels, conger eel, langoustines, and wine.tuile: literally, “curved roofing tile”; delicate almond flavored cookie.tulipe: tulip shaped cookie for serving ice cream or sorbet. turban: usually a mixture or combination of ingredients cooked in a ring mold.turbot(in): turbot (small turbot), prized flatfish found in the atlantic and mediterranean. vache: cow.vacherin: dessert of baked meringue, with ice cream and whipped cream. also a strong, supple winter cheese encircled by a band of spruce, from the jura.vallée d’auge: area of normandy. also, garnish of cooked apples and cream or calvados and cream.vanille: vanilla.vapeur, à la: steamed.varech: seaweed.veau: veal.velouté: classic sauce based on veal, chicken, or fish stock, thickened with a roux of butter and flour; also, variously seasoned classic soups thickened with cream and egg yolks.ventre: belly or stomach.ventrèche: pork belly. american clam.verdure (en): garnish of green vegetables.verdurette: herb vinaigrette.vernis: large fleshy clam with small red tongue and shiny varnish like shell.verjus: the juice of unripe grapes, used to make a condiments used much like vinegar in sauces. véronique, à la: garnish of peeled white grapes.vert pré: a watercress garnish, sometimes including potatoes.verveine: lemon verbena, herb tea.vessie, en: cooked in a pig’s bladder (usually chicken).viande: meat.vichy: with glazed carrots. also, a brand of mineral water.vichyssoise: cold, creamy leek and potato soup.viennoise: coated in egg, breaded, and fried.vierge (sauce): “virgin”; term for the best quality olive oil, from the first pressing of the olives; (sauce of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, tomatoes, and fresh herbs.)vieux (vielle): old.vieux lille: thick, square cheese named for the old part of the north’s largest city, made in the same way as maroilles, with cow’s milk, only salted more, then aged six months until stinking ripe. also called vieux puant, or “old stinker.”vin jaune: an amber yellow wine made in the jura with late harvested grapes. stored in oak casks, it can last up to a century. vinaigre (vieux): vinegar (aged).vinaigre de xérès: sherry vinegar.vinaigrette: oil and vinegar dressing.viognier: increasingly popular white grape of the rhône, used for the famed condrieu .violet or figue de mer: unusual iodine strong, soft shelled edible sea creature, with a yellowish in terior. a delicacy along the mediterranean, particularly in marseille.violet de provence: braid of plump garlic, a specialty of provence and the côte d’azur.violette: violet; its crystallized petals are a specialty of toulouse.viroflay: classic garnish of spinach for poached or soft cooked eggs.vive or vipère de mer: weever; a small firm fleshed ocean fish used in soups, such as bouillabaisse, or grilled. the venomous spine is removed before cooking.vol au vent: puff pastry shell.volonté (à): at the customer’s discretion.vonnaissienne, à la: in the style of vonnas, a village in the rhône alpes. also, crêpes made with potatoes. waterzooi: flemish chicken stew cooked with aromatic herbs and vegetables in a sauce of cream and chicken broth. xérès (vinaigre de): sherry (vinegar). yaourt: yogurt.yuzu: a pungent, fragrant citrus fruit used in east asian cooking, particularly japanese. za’tar: middle eastern seasoning mix of ground sesame seeds, sumac berrries, thyme and salt.zeste: zest, or citrus peel with white pith removed.zewelmai, zewelwai: alsatian onion tart.zingara, à la: gypsy style; with tomato sauce. also classically, a garnish of ham, tongue, mushrooms, and truffles. get the food lover's guide to paris iphone app. at home with patricia wells   cooking classes in paris and provence all text including recipes are copyright 2022 by patricia wells. all rights reserved. all images on this site are copyright by patricia wells, jeff kauck or steven rothfeld. do not reproduce without permisison. site created by emily buchanan. patricia wells   journalist, author, and cooking teacher   is an american who has lived in paris since 1980. she is the author of 13 books, including the french kitchen cookbook, simply truffles, vegetable harvest, we've always had paris...and provence, bistro cooking, simply french, and trattoria. her first book, the food lover’s guide to paris, was a landmark work that "cracked the code" to the paris food world. (the food lovers guide iphone app is available from the itunes store, and an all new version of the print edition is scheduled for march publication.) she is the only woman and only foreigner to serve as restaurant critic of a major french publication, the newsweekly l’express. from 1980 to 2007 she served as restaurant critic for the international herald tribune. previously, she was a writer and editor for the washington post and the new york times. she is the recipient of numerous awards, including the chevalier de l’ordre des arts et des lettres for her contributions to french culture, and received an honorary doctorate from muhlenberg college in 2013 and another in gastronomic journalism from the university of wisconsin milwaukee in 2007. several of her books have received the james beard and iacp awards, and most of them have been translated into several languages. at certain times of the year, she conducts week long cooking classes both in her cooking studio in paris and at her farmhouse in provence. she is married to walter wells, retired executive editor of the international herald tribune and now her enthusiastic sous chef.

we’re giving you the keys to the kitchen, so you can unlock your inner chef. find a glossary of terms, techniques, equipment, ingredients and more to improve your skills in the kitchen, and bring your a game to the table. description buying measuring storage description buying storing description buying and storing description storage description storage and freshness description buying and storing tip description storage cooking with cheese cutting and serving cheese description buying storing description buying storing tip description buying storing measuring tip description buying storing description buying and storing description buying and storing description buying storing tip description buying and storing description description description buying storing tip description buying storage tip description buying and storing description storage measuring testing for freshness description storage substitutions measuring testing for freshness description buying storing description buying storing measuring tip description buying storing tip description buying storing description cooking tips measuring tip description green beans or snap beans, and yellow wax beans are sold in the pod and cooked and eaten in the pod. yellow wax beans have a subtle flavor. green and yellow wax beans are sold fresh, canned and frozen. now most green beans are stringless and personal preference determines if the ends are snipped off. french style green beans just mean that the green bean was cut in half lengthwise. haricot vert is french for green bean. these are very tiny, slender, straight green beans found seasonally in the produce section. they are soft and tender when cooked. flat or pole beans are larger, flatter beans that grow on a tall plant and are often steamed and seasoned with bacon. these are available fresh during the growing season. miscellaneous beans that are somewhat more common dried, canned or frozen, but are available seasonally fresh edamame is the japanese name for fresh soybeans. when in season they are picked when not quite mature and sold in the slightly fuzzy green pod. they are legumes that come 4 or 5 beans to a green pod. edamame can be steamed or cooked and then popped from the pod and eaten as a snack or a vegetable, in soups and main dishes. they are high in protein. frozen edamame, shelled or unshelled, are also available. edamame is available seasonally fresh, but is most commonly found frozen in the pod or shelled. the shell is not eaten. store fresh edamame in the refrigerator and use within a few days. fava beans are flat beans inside large pale green pods. the beans are tightly packed inside. they have a sweet flavor and a good texture when fresh and young. seasonally, fava beans may be found fresh at farmer’s markets or in the produce section. remove the beans from the pod before cooking. fresh, tender fava beans need to be just shelled; older beans have a waxy skin around the beans. this needs to be removed. blanch the beans in boiling water, then plunge in cold water. pull off the skins. cook the beans until just tender. a flavorful cream sauce goes well with fava beans. fava beans can be purchased dried and frozen. lima beans are also known as butterbeans and are large, flat green beans used as a side dish on their own, in succotash or bean dishes. it is a mealy or starchy bean that is removed from the pod before cooking. it is sold fresh in season, canned, frozen and dried. buying storage measurement description buying and storing description buying storing description buying storing description storage description buying storing description description buying storing description buying and storing description tips description​ storage and freshness description storing description description buying storing tip description buying and storing description buying storing tip description buying and storing tips and substitutions description buying storing tip description buying and storing description 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storing description buying storing description buying storing description buying storing description buying storing description buying storing tip description use a clean sharp knife to cut the rounds into wedges. keep cheese refrigerated at temperatures of 35°f to 40°f. wrap cheese tightly in the original wrapper or container, plastic food wrap, special cheese paper or aluminum foil to retain moisture and prevent mold. description buying and storing description buying and storing description buying storing description storage beating eggs testing for freshness description description buying and storing description buying and storing description buying storing measuring description buying storing measuring description buying storing description description buying and storing description buying and storing description buying and storing description storage measuring flour sifting flour description description buying storing description buying storing tips measuring description buying 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culinary professionals must be familiar with culinary terms! browse this glossary of french cooking terms for immersion in the language of the kitchen. have your sights set on wearing the chef’s hat? discover the steps that may be required to start your culinary career and earn the title of ‘chef’. by clicking the "get the survey now" button, i am providing my signature in accordance with the e sign act, and express written consent and agreement to be contacted by, and to receive calls and texts using automated technology and/or prerecorded calls, and emails from, auguste escoffier school of culinary arts at the number and email address i provided above, regarding furthering my education and enrolling. i acknowledge that i am not required to agree to receive such calls and texts using automated technology and/or prerecorded calls as a condition of enrolling at escoffier. i further acknowledge that i can opt out of receiving such calls and texts by calling 888 773 8595, by submitting a request via escoffier’s website, or by emailing [email protected]. every professional in the culinary industry   whether a chef, pastry chef, restaurant manager, or even menu designer   absolutely must know the culinary terms used throughout the kitchen. learn the foundational french culinary techniques, along with all the related terms, following in the legacy and enduring heritage of chef auguste escoffier himself. interested in learning more about the ins and outs of the kitchen? contact us to learn more about how a culinary education can help you succeed and set you apart from the rest. we’ve compiled a checklist of all of the essential questions into one handy tool: career options, culinary interest surveys, educational opportunities, and more. by clicking the "get the survey now" button, i am providing my signature in accordance with the e sign act, and express written consent and agreement to be contacted by, and to receive calls and texts using automated technology and/or prerecorded calls, and emails from, auguste escoffier school of culinary arts at the number and email address i provided above, regarding furthering my education and enrolling. i acknowledge that i am not required to agree to receive such calls and texts using automated technology and/or prerecorded calls as a condition of enrolling at escoffier. i further acknowledge that i can opt out of receiving such calls and texts by calling 888 773 8595, by submitting a request via escoffier’s website, or by emailing [email protected]. a la in the style of, (ex., a la francaise =in the style of france) a la brasa charcoal grilled a la carte a list of food items each priced separately a la marinera cooked with white wine, onions, and tomatoes a la minut cooked to order a la mode in the fashion a la parilla broiled a la plancha broiled on a hot surface, especially fish, shellfish, and meat a la romana deep fried in a light batter   especially calemares, hake or merluza aachar spicy and strong “indian pickles” made from vegetables, mango, lime, and green chilies abaisse a piece of dough rolled to required size abalone a mollusk, related to a sea snail, similar in flavor to a clam. it may be cooked by various methods and is best suited to very long or very short cooking times. called “awabi” in japanese cuisine and “loco” in south american cuisine. it has been over harvested and is very expensive when available. a small amount is being commercial raised. abattis winglets, giblets of poultry abricot apricot aburage deep fried bean curd, or tofu, cooked in sweet sake, soy sauce, and water. a primary ingredient in miso soup. aceite oil aceite de oliva olive oil aceite de oliva extra virgin quality cold pressed olive oil with an acidity level below .75 percent and a distinctive flavor aceite de oliva puro a processed neutral olive oil with a small amount virgin olive oil added for flavor. a basic olive oil for frying aceituna olive acelga swiss chard achar very spice relish from the cuisine of india and the caribbean islands. achar may be made from fruits and vegetables acidulated water a mixture of water and a small amount of vinegar or lemon juice, used to purify or prevent discoloration in meats and vegetables. adafina sephardic dish similar to a cocido or stew aderezar to season or dress a salad adobar to marinate adobo a marinade made from vinegar, garlic, and seasoning used to preserve the flavor of raw meat. adzuki beans small reddish brown beans. aemono a mixture of vegetables or meats topped with sauce. agar agar japanese gelatin made from dried seaweed. agari the japanese sushi bar term that refers to green tea. agemono a term that refers to deep fried or pan fried foods. aging what we all do but in cooking it means keeping meats or cheeses in a controlled environment for a certain amount of time to improve tenderness and flavor agiter to stir agneau lamb agnolotti a small half moon shaped ravioli. agridulce bittersweet, especially describing a type of pimentón de la vera agrio sour or bitter agua water aguacate avocado aguardiente a potent spanish liqueur used sparingly in cooking which is especially popular in galicia. similar to italian grappa which has a lower alcohol content. ahumado smoked aigrefin haddock aiguillette long, thin slices of poultry breast or some other meats. aiguillettes meat of fish cut into strips ail french word for “garlic”. aioli a sauce made from olive oil, garlic and lemon juice, blended with a mortar and pestle. a common variation includes egg yolk and is similar to mayonnaise. airelle rouge cranberry aji filleted and marinated spanish horse mackerel. aji no moto monosodium glutamate (msg). aji no tataki filleted and marinated spanish horse mackerel. ajo spanish for “garlic” ajoarriero bacalao al ajoarriero, is a recipe from navarra which includes a dish of salt cod with garlic ajoblanco cold almond soup from andalusia, often served with grapes aka miso red soy bean paste akagai red clam akami lean tuna akuri an indian variation of scrambled eggs, with added onions and hot spices. delicious with a hot paratha. al ajillo fried with garlic, as in ‘gambas al ajillo’   garlic shrimp al carbon spanish term for a dish relating to grilled or containing meat. al dente a term meaning “to the bite”, used to describe the correct degree of doneness for pasta and vegetables. this is not exactly a procedure, but a sensory evaluation for deciding when the food is finished cooking. pasta should retain a slight resistance when biting into it, but should not have a hard center. al forno italian term describing a dish cooked in the oven. al horno roasted or baked in the oven al pastor a term used in spanish and italian referring to a dish cooked in the style of shepherd cooking, usually over a grill or spit. al pil pil a basque recipe for bacalao salt cod sauted slowly in oil with garlic. the gelatine under the skin of the fish combines with the oil to form a gelatine like sauce al vapor steamed albahaca sweet basil albardilla batter albondiga meatball alboronia a summer vegetable combination similar to pesto   typical andalucian cuisine albumen the protein of egg whites. alcachofa artichoke alcaparras capers alfredo a pasta sauce originally consisting of butter, cream, and the finest parmesan cheese available. modern versions add garlic, peas, and less expensive parme all of these will make fine sauces, but nothing can compare to the original version. alimento food alino dressing, seasoning allemande a sauce made of veloute (usually veal), a liaison and lemon juice. allspice an aromatic spice made from the dried berry of the west indian allspice tree. this spice, used to flavor savory dishes, has the aroma and taste of cinnamon cloves, nutmeg, and pepper. allumettes match sized knife cut, (usually potatoes) same size as julienne almazara olive oil mill almejas clams almendras almonds almíbar syrup almond paste a sweet paste made from finely ground blanched almonds mixed with powdered sugar and enough glucose or syrup to bind it together. almuerzo brunch, hearty second breakfast alta cocina haute cuisine alubias beans grown for drying, can be white, red, or black alubias negras black beans alubias rojas kidney beans ama ebi sweet shrimp. usually served raw with deep fried shrimp shells. amandine a french term for any dish with almonds. alternate spelling is almondine. amchoor pulverized, sun dried, unripe, wild green mango. this spice has a bitter, tangy, and refreshing taste. amchoor has a slightly tropical aroma, and is similar to tamarind in flavor. used mainly in indian cooking. an sweetened puree of cooked red beans ana kyu maki conger eel and cucumber rolls añadir add anago saltwater conger eel that is boiled and grilled before serving. anchoa anchovy anchoiade a dip made of pureed anchovies mixed with garlic and olive oil. raw vegetables and bread are served with this dip. anchois anchovy andouille a sausage made from the stomach and the intestines of pork. the sausage is dried and smoked, then boiled or steamed to finish cooking. andouille sausage is used regularly in creole cooking, but it is popular in french cooking as well. the creole version of this sausage is much spicier than those made in france. angelica licorice flavored stalks from these plants are candied and used primarily in pastry making. angelica is also used to flavor liqueurs. anglaise english style, (meaning bland plain cooked food) animelle sweetbreads anise an aromatic, licorice flavored herb belonging to the parsley family. it has feathery leaves and bears greenish brown seeds, both of which are dried for use. popularly used as a flavoring in cooking and liqueurs. anise pepper hot, peppery dried red berries that are roasted and ground to produce a pungent and aromatic seasoning. sichuan pepperis one of the spices of chinese five spice powder. anna potatoes the name for a potato pancake made of thin slices of potato which are assembled in concentric circles and cooked with liberal amounts of butter. the cake then baked until crisp and golden brown. annatto seed also called achiote seed, these seeds are used as a food coloring and a spice in cooking from latin america and southeast asia. annoncer to announce (call out orders) antipasto the italian word for snacks served before a meal, meant to pique one’s appetite. there are many diverse antipasti, but common elements of an antipasto t are cured meats and salamis, olives, marinated vegetables, and cheese. aoyagi red round clam aperitivo aperitif or an appetizer apio celery aplanar roll out aplastar flatten appam a thin, round, “at wafer made from rice, potatoes, and/or various lentil flours. arándano cranberry arborio starchy, short grain rice that develops a creamy consistency when cooked. especially used for risotto. arenque ahumado kipper argenteuil district in france known for its asparagus aromates herbs, spices & flavorings (aromatic) arrenque herring arrowroot starch obtained from the arrowroot plant. can be used in place of cornstarch or flour. arroz rice arroz a banda a saffron rice dish cooked in a paella pan, with a complex fish stock. arroz calasparra a short grain rice gown in the calasparra region of murcia in fresh mountain water. due to slow maturation, the grains of rice are highly absorbent while retaining their integrity, making them a key ingredient in the making of paella. a sub variety, bomba rice from calasparra,was rescued from extinction in the past fifty years and is prized by many chefs as the finest paella rice in spain. artesa flat based, long wooden container for kneading bread, mixing meat for sausages, and similar tasks. artichaut artichoke artichoke a name shared by three unrelated plants: the globe artichoke, jerusalem artichoke and chinese (or japanese) artichoke. considered the true artichoke, the globe artichoke is cultivated mainly in california’s mid coastal region. it is the bud of a large plant from the thistle family and has tough, petal shaped leave they are available year round, with the peak season march through may. buy deep green, heavy for their size artichokes with a tight leaf formation. asado barbecuing techniques used in argentina, brazil, chile, colombia, ecuador, paraguay, peru and uruguay. asafetida a spice used in india and the middle east for cooking or as a condiment to be sprinkled over food after it has been cooked. it has a bitter taste and a pungent aroma similar to garlic and truffles. asiago a cheese similar to provolone, but milder in flavor. asperge asparagus aspic a clear jelly made from the concentrated liquid in which meat, poultry or fish was cooked. these preparations are often elaborately decorated for use on buffets. both savory and sweet foods are set in aspic. atar tie atta whole wheat flour atún tuna au bleu a term to describe the cooking method of cooking live fish in court bouillon au four in the oven au gratin cooked in the oven in a way that forms form a crust on the surface. this is expedited by placing the dish under the broiler. bread crumbs and cheese are often sprinkled on top of these dishes to help form the crust. au jus french for “with juice.” used to describe meat (usually beef) served in its own juice. the term is sometimes used as a name for the juice itself, usually obtained by deglazing a pan after cooking. aubergine the french word for eggplant. aurore this is a term associated with sauces that have tomato puree or concasse added to it. avena oatmeal aves de caza game birds avial vegetable curry from southern india avocado salad a green salad typically served with avocado and ginger dressing ayu sweet fish azafrán the toasted stigmas of a purple crocus flower. saffron adds a deep color and a unique pungent flavor to rice dishes. because of the labor intensive process of harvesting the flowers, removing the stamens and toasting them it is the most expensive spice in the world. most of the world’s saffron comes from spain, although less potent iranian and turkish saffron have been flooding the market under the guise of being from spain. economical “colorante” is a poor substitute, as it’s actually turmeric, a different spice entirely. azúcar sugar azúcar blanca granulada fino finely granulated sugar azúcar glace confectioner’s sugar; icing sugar azuki small red beans baba a small cake made from enriched yeast dough, often flavored with candied fruits, and soaked with a rum or kirsch syrup after baking. this dough is also used to make the larger savarin. bacalao dried, salt cod, highly popular in the basque region of spain. bacalao must be soaked for about 24 hours before use to remove the excess salt, and to rehydrate the fish. baekenhofe an alsacienne stew made of pork, lamb, and beef layered with potatoes and onions. the meat is first marinated in wine and herbs for a minimum of 24 ho then assembled and baked in a paste sealed casserole until the meat is buttery tender. the juices are reduced and the top is browned under the broiler. crisp bacon and fried leeks are used to garnish this dish. baghar a melange of spices, herbs, oil, and vegetables that flavors many indian dishes. bagna cauda meaning “warm bath”, this is a dip made of anchovies, olive oil, and garlic. unlike the french anchoiade, this is served warm and is not emulsified. bread and raw vegetables are served with this dip. baigai small water snails bain marie a double boiler used for cooking (insulated from direct heat) baked alaska a dessert comprised of sponge cake topped with ice cream and covered with meringue. the dessert is then placed in a hot oven to brown the meringue before the ice cream can melt. baking powder a leavening agent combining an acid with bicarbonate of soda to form the gas which enables baked products to rise. the chemical reaction between the acid and the soda produces carbon dioxide to leaven the product. the most common form of baking powder is the double acting variety, which produces gas upon mixing and again at high temperatures. always store this tightly covered. baking soda a leavening agent which is used as an essential ingredient in baking powder. when used alone as a leavener, recipes must include some type of acid to neutralize the resulting sodium carbonate in the finished product. buttermilk, yogurt, sour cream, and citrus juice are adequate acid to use. you may also use baking soda to help neutralize the acid in recipes that call for large amounts of fruit. baklava a very sweet dessert made of layers of flaky pastry filled with a mixture of ground nuts and sugar. the pastry is sliced, baked, and brushed with a honey syrup flavored with lemon or rose water. ballotine stuffed boneless game or domestic bird balsam pear a long, green, shiny, slightly sour fruit that resembles a cucumber with bumpy skin. balsamic vinegar sweet red brown vinegar that is aged in wooden barrels. bamboo shoots tender spear shaped shoots from the base of bamboo plants often used in stir fried dishes to provide texture. bangers british colloquial term for sausages. “bangers and mash” are sausages and mashed potatoes. bar 1. bass (fish) 2. gin mill bar raye rock salmon barbacoa barbeque bard to wrap thin sheets of fat or bacon around lean meat or poultry to prevent it from drying out while roasting barder to cover meats with fat during cooking proces barding the practice of wrapping lean cuts of meat to be with thin slices of back fat. the converse of this is larding, in which long strips of fat are inserted into the cut meat to keep it moist during cooking. barfi a sweet fudge dessert flavored with saffron, vanilla essence, and cocoa. this popular after dinner treat is served in bite sized pieces. baron mutton or lamb; the saddle with legs attached barquette a small oval shaped pastry shell with either sweet or savory fillings. barra loaf of bread/baguette basil the quintessential mediterranean herb, and widely used in italian kitchens. consumed fresh, it adds fragrance and fresh flavor to pasta dishes, soups, vegetables, fish, poultry, salad dressings, and pesto sauces. basil is a perfect topping for any tomato based dish. basilic basil basmati rice fragrant, nutty, authentic, indian long grained white rice. a wide variety of dishes are served with basmati rice, including pulaos, pilafs, biryanis, meats, and vegetables. basquaise food prepared in the style of basque which often includes tomatoes and sweet or hot red peppers. baste to brush, squirt or pour drippings, fat or liquid, over food while broiling, roasting or baking to prevent drying out; develops a crusty exterior and improves flavor and appearance of product being cooked. batido de leche milkshake batir whisk batonnet (bah toh nay); a small diced strip: 1/4” x 1/4” x 2 1/2   3” batter a liquid dough, usually thin enough to pour battera oshi sushi topped with mackerel batterie de cuisine equipment found in the kitchen bavarian cream a cream made with pastry cream lightened with whipped cream and stabilized with gelatin. this cream may then be poured into molds, or used as a filling cakes or pastries. bavarian cream is often flavored with fruit purees or alcohol. bean curd also referred to as dou fu in chinese and tofu in japanese, this soft cheese like paste is made from boiled soya bean liquid. bean curd cheese a strong, salty cheese made by fermenting bean curd cubes in rice wine, salt, sesame oil, or chili. bean sprouts highly nutritious sprouted green gram bearnaise this is the most notable of all the hollandaise sauce variations. it is made with a wine and vinegar reduction flavored with tarragon. this sauce makes a good companion to grilled meats and fish. bebidas drinks becassine snipe bechamel basic milk sauce(white); one of the five mother sauces bechamel sauce this is a white sauce made with milk or cream and thickened with a roux. bechamel sauce is generally used as a base for other more complex sauces, though may be used alone for binding or moistening. beef negimaki sizzling, thin sliced beef rolls wrapped around scallions and broiled with teriyaki sauce. beef teriyaki broiled beef served with teriyaki sauce beignet a french term for a type of doughnut. dough or batter is deep fried and dusted w/sugar or glazed with a flavored syrup. beignets fritters belle helene best known as the name of a dessert with poached pears, ice cream, and chocolate sauce. it is also a term used in french cookery as a name for a garnish to grilled meat dishes. bellota acorn beni shoga red pickled ginger benne seeds an african term for sesame seeds. bento a boxed meal of rice, pickles, fish, poached egg, sausage, and beans. berenjena eggplant, aubergine berro aatercress besugo sea bream betel leaf a thick, smooth, dark green leaf. in the indian cuisine, this leaf is wrapped around fragrant spices, fennel seeds, slaked lime paste, tobacco leaves, colored shreds of coconut, and fine shreds of areca nut. paan, which acts as a breath freshener, digestive, antacid, and carminative, is eaten after a meal. it is garnished with varak. beteragas beets beurre butter beurre blanc an emulsified sauce made of a wine or vinegar reduction blended with softened butter. this may be flavored in many ways, for fish, vegetables, and poultry dishes. this is a very tricky sauce and does not hold for long periods of time. because of this, modern versions add a touch of cream to stabilize the sauce for longer periods of time. beurre manie a mixture of flour and butter kneaded to a smooth paste. this is then used in small quantities to adjust the thickness of sauces and stews. the sauce must be boiled briefly to remove the starchy taste of the flour. for this reason, beurre manie is used in situations where only a small quantity is needed. bhaaji a general indian term to describe vegetables. bhakri an unleavened flatbread made from sorghum flour and water. the dough is rolled out and baked on a tawa. bharta a spicy, pulpy, mashed, vegetable dish. most commonly served with baingan (eggplant). bhatura deep fried leavened bread made from semolina and yogurt. after the bread ferments, it is mixed with maida to form dough. bhel puri a mixture of puffed rice, lentils, !finely chopped onions, and chopped coriander topped with both sweet and spicy onion chili chutneys. bhunao to saute or stir fry in onions, tomatoes, ginger, garlic, green chilies, and oil. bien cocido well cooked meat bien cuit well cooked biiru beer bind to thicken a hot liquid or sauce by stirring in a roux, flour, cornstarch, egg yolks, cream or butter biryani this elaborate indian dish, made from spiced saffron, is cooked with lamb, chicken, or vegetables. biscotti dry italian cookies flavored with almonds, chocolate, or anise seed, used for dunking in coffee and sweet dessert wine. bisque a rich shellfish soup made with the shells of the animal. the soup is enriched with cream and cognac and garnished with pieces of the shellfish meat. this name is also used to describe vegetable soups prepared in the same manner as shellfish bisques. bistec beef steak bistella see pastilla for a definition. bitter gourd a long, green, shiny, slightly sour fruit that resembles a cucumber with bumpy skin. bitter melon a long, green, shiny, slightly sour fruit that resembles a cucumber with bumpy skin. black bean sauce a flavorful and popular chinese marinade consisting of fermented salted black beans and spices, such as garlic or chilies. this condiment gives a rich and distinctive aroma to steamed and stir fried chinese dishes. blackened method of cooking that uses spices (sometimes butter) to coat fish or steak or chicken and then cooked in a very hot cast iron skillet blanc white blanc d’oeuf egg whites blanch cooking foods in boiling water for a brief period of time. this applies primarily to vegetables so as to reduce their final cooking time. but blanching may be done to fish or meat as well. blanchir to blanch, to par cook by immersion in water briefly, and “shocking” in ice water blanquear to blanch or pre cook in boiling water blanquette a stew of white meats, usually veal, without initial browning. the sauce is thickened with roux and enriched with cream. bleu blue, applies to very rare cooked meat blini a small pancake made of buckwheat flour and leavened with yeast. these pancakes are often brushed with large amounts of melted butter and served with caviar and sour cream. other versions may be made of vegetable purees or semolina flour. blintz a stuffed crepe or thin pancake. the filling is usually made of a fresh cheese or cottage cheese, and often topped with fresh fruit or fruit preserves. bocadillo spanish sandwich, usually made from length of barra/baguette bodino baked veal stuffed with layers of vegetables and prosciutto. boeuf beef boil to cook at the boiling point keeping water or other liquids bubbling; rapid penetration of heat bok choy a chinese cabbage with long white stalks and narrow green leaves also called chinese cabbage boletus a family of wild mushrooms known for their rich taste and meaty texture. porcinis and cepes are two members of this family of mushroom. bolillos french style rolls bollito misto an italian stew consisting of various cuts of meat, including zampone, boiled in a rich broth with vegetables. the whole dish is served with cornichons, pickled onions and a variation of chutney called mostarda di cremona. these are whole or large pieces of fruit cooked in a spicy mustard flavored syrup. other common sauces are salsa verde and mayonnaise. bolognese a pasta meat sauce that is often made with wine and tomatoes. bombes ice cream dessert bonarelli thin ribbons of pasta bondas a round deep fried savory snack made from lentils and potatoes. served with chutneys. bonito a seasoning that is boiled, dried, and then shaved into fine strands of flakes to garnish salads and enhance flavor. boquerónes fresh white anchovies marinated in vinegar bordelaise this is a term primarily used to describe a brown sauce that includes shallots and red wine. some versions of this sauce include slices of bone marrow added the end of cooking. fish dishes with this name will be cooked with white bordeaux wine. bordure border (usually applies to plate presentation) borraja borage borscht a rich soup from eastern europe containing beets or cabbage. other ingredients may include potatoes, beans, meat or sausage. the best known of these soups is a cold version based on beets and served with sour cream, but hot versions are very common. boston rolls a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around scallions, crab, and salmon. boti kabab marinated boneless cubes of meat cooked in a tandoor. bouchee a small round puff pastry shell used for sweet or savory fillings. bouchees small puff pastries boudin smooth sausages of two types. boudin blanc contain veal, pork, and chicken. boudin noir are made with blood and rice or potatoes. the latter type are popular in european and creole cooking. boudin,noir blood sausage, or black pudding bouillabaisse a rich fish stew from southern france. this was once a poor man’s meal made of any fish available. modern versions include lobster and shrimp. the broth is flavored with garlic, orange peel, fennel, and saffron. olive oil is added to the stew and rapidly boiled to blend it into the broth. the stew is served with croutons and rouille, a variation of aioli. bouillir, bouilli to boil, boiled bouillon reduced meat stock boulanger baker bouquet garni a sachet of herbs, containing parsley, thyme, and bay leaf; used to flavor stocks and soups. variations may include rosemary, marjoram, fennel, leeks, celery leaves, and black pepper. bourgeoise meats served with vegetables bourgogne burgundy bourguignonne foods cooked in the style of burgundy. this includes red wine, mushrooms, pearl onions, and bacon. bourride another fish stew from southern france. here the broth, in which large pieces of fish are poached, is strained and thickened with aioli. the two are then served together in shallow bowls with bread or croutons. braise a method of cooking that involves browning meat with vegetables in fat, oil or butter first, then slowly cooking the food in a small amount of liquid; a pot roast is often cooked this way braiser to braise braisiere braising pan or stewing pan bran the outer husk of grains such as wheat, containing a high percentage of fiber. white flours have the bran removed. whole wheat flours may contain all or part of the bran. brandade a puree of salt cod mixed with olive oil and potatoes. another version of brandade is covered with gruyere cheese and browned in the oven. both are served with croutons. bread to coat the food with bread crumbs (usually the food is first dipped in flour and then beaten eggs, then bread crumbs) break the separation of fat from a liquid content of a sauce or soup; appears curdled bresaola a cured and dried beef filet from italy with a more delicate texture but stronger flavor than that of prosciutto. a swiss version of this is called bundnerfleisch. this style is pressed into a rectangular shape and has a bit drier texture than bresaola. both are served thinly sliced with bread and fruit or pickled vegetables. brider to truss or tie meat or poultry brioche a very rich bread with butter and eggs. brioche is baked in many shapes though the brioche e tete is best known. the dough can be flavored with nuts or candied fruit, as well as herbs and spices. it may also be used to wrap foods like coulibiac. slices of toasted brioche are the perfect companion to foie gras a gravlax. brochette skewers of meat, fish, or vegetables that are grilled over a flame. broil a method of cooking where the food is placed directly underneath or above the source of high heat brotes de ajo garlic sprouts broth a liquid made by simmering meats or fish or poultry or vegetables or their by products in water with herbs (also “stock”) brown quickly searing food to enhance flavor; most often done at the beginning of the cooking process brunoise vegetables cut into fine, small dice. bruschetta a garlic and olive oil toasted bread that is usually topped with tomatoes and basil. brush to coat food with a liquid such as melted butter or a glaze using a brush designed for this process bruxelloise in the brussels style (with brussels sprouts} bucatini long, narrow tubes of pasta usually served with a hearty meat sauce. budino baked veal stuffed with layers of vegetables and prosciutto. buffet a vast array of hot and cold foods, often elaborately garnished. bulghur cracked wheat made from the whole kernel that has been cooked and dried. most commonly used in breads and tabbouleh salad. bullit de peix mixed fish soup stew, similar to sopa de marisco (ibiza) buri adult yellowtail buri toro the fatty, rich, buttery, belly strip of the yellowtail buta pork butifarra a mild pork sausage (white or black in color) used extensively in catalán cooking. spices, such as cinnemon, nutmeg and clove, are often used for flavoring   although they vary from region to region, and the sausage itself can be fresh or cured. butter a cooking and eating fat that is made from sweet or sour cream and, by federal law, must contain a minimum of 80% butterfat. butter absorbs odors easily is highly susceptible to rancidity. to avoid either of these problems, store butter in the refrigerator no longer than 2 weeks. for longer storage, butter may frozen for up to 6 months without deterioration. butterfly to cut food down the center but not all the way through; done to spread the food apart for quicker cooking without burning buttermilk originally a by product of butter making, buttermilk is commercially produced by adding lactic acid culture to skimmed or partially skimmed milk cabillaud cod fish cabra goat cabrilla sea bass cacahuates peanuts cafe coffee cafe con leche espresso coffee with steamed milk, café au lait cafe cortadito espresso coffee with a dash of steamed milk cafe solo espresso coffee alone, (no milk) caille quail cala rocky bay, cove calabacita a variety of summer squash found in latin american and mexican cooking. calabaza pumpkin, squash calamari the italian word for squid calcots spring onion (scallion) caldereta casserole, most often based on lamb or kid (extremadura) and lobster (menorca) caldero heavy iron pot, by association, or a fish and rice dish made in this pot caldo stock, consomme, clear broth caldo verde a portuguese soup made from a sharp flavored cabbage, potatoes, broth, and olive oil. sausage is then cooked in the soup. calentar to heat or warm california roll a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around crab meat, smelt or flying fish roe, avocado, and cucumber. callos scallops calzone a savory turnover made with pizza dough. traditionally stuffed with tomatoes, mozzarella, fresh ricotta, and/or meat, then folded, and baked or fried. often served with sauce over the top rather than inside. camarones shrimp camotes sweet potatoes cana small serving of draft beer canapé small open faced sandwiches served as snacks or for lunch. they may be served hot or cold, but they are often elaborately garnished. canard duck canard sauvage wild duck canela cinnamon canelones “cannelloni,” pasta tubes stu#ed with minced meats and bechamel sauce canestrini small pasta used in soup. cangrejo crab cangrejo or jaiba crab cannaroni wide, hollow, tubular pasta. a larger version of ziti pasta. cannelloni “big pipes”; this hollow cylindrical pasta is stu#ed and baked. cannelloni beans white oval shaped beans are frequently used in italian dishes. cannoli a sicilian specialty pastry named for its cannon like shape. this elaborately flavored dough is rolled and shaped around a metal cylinder, then deep fried. when cooled, the crisp cookie like tubes are filled with a sweetened ricotta mixture, pastry whipped cream, or sugary almond pistachio paste, and enriched with candied fruits or small bits of chocolate. cantaloupe melon cantucci tuscan almond cookies that resemble small biscotti. cantuccini tuscan almond cookies that resemble small biscotti. capa layer capellini literally “fine hair”; fine strands of pasta that are usually used in soup. caperberries the fruit of the caper bush, which appear after the flowers. they are usually preserved in brine, and are most often served in the same way as olives, as a garnish for salads, or in a martini. capers sun dried flower buds that are pickled in vinegar and salt brine. the pungent flavor offers piquancy to many sauces and condiments. traditionally used as a garnish for meat and vegetable dishes. capicolla a coarse italian pork sausage. usually highly seasoned, this sausage is served cold, thinly sliced, as for prosciutto. capocolla seasoned cured ham that is thinly sliced and served in antipasto platters. capon a castrated chicken that is savored for its delicate taste and texture. once castrated, the chicken would become fattened, yielding tender, juicy flesh. this method of raising chickens is not practiced much anymore, since most chickens are butchered at a young age and still very tender. caponata best known as a spread or cold salad containing eggplant, celery, tomatoes, raisins, and pine nuts seasoned with vinegar and olive oil. modern variations will add other vegetables such as zucchini and season it with fresh herbs. capsicum the family name for sweet and hot peppers. caracol snail caramel melted sugar to the brown stage caramelize a process of cooking sugar (usually with oil or butter) until it begins to color; foods containing natural sugars will caramelize in their own sugars caramelize to to cook to release natural sugars, or until reaching brown color carbonara a rich sauce made with cream, eggs, parmesan or pecorino romano cheese, sauteed pieces of bacon, and vegetables. carbonnade braised steak carcasse bone structure without the meat cardamom aromatic seeds used for baking, flavoring coffee and exotic scandinavian and indian dishes. excellent when freshly ground. botanical name: elettaria cardamomum. cardinal fish dishes which have sauces made with lobster fumet and are garnished with lobster meat. cardoon a vegetable from the artichoke family that looks like celery. cardoons may be eaten raw or cooked and served like any vegetable. carnaroli premium firm risotto rice carne meat carne de res beef carne de salchicha sausage meat carne picada minced meat carnero lamb carnes meats carob the seed from the carob tree which is dried, ground, and used primarily as a substitute for chocolate. carpaccio a raw beef appetizer topped with a mustard mayonnaise sauce or olive oil and parmesan cheese. often paired with raw white truffles. carpe carp carre rack of veal or lamb carrelet flounder cartouche a greased round of paper used to cover meats during cooking process cáscara “shell” in spanish. usually refers to citrus rinds. caserola saucepan, pan casqueria variety meats, offal casserole a fireproof dish, or food prepared in a casserole dish cassis black currant & black currant liqueur cassoulet a dish from southwest france consisting of white beans and an assortment of meats such as confit, lamb, pork, and toulouse sausage. the dish is enriched with large amounts of duck fat and is baked until the top is brown and crispy. can sometimes include seafood and lentils. served alone or with a light, bitter salad. castaña chestnut caul fat the stomach lining of pork which is used in place of back fat for pates and to encase crepinettes. cava a type of quality spanish sparkling white wine produced by the bottle fermentation method, methode champenoise. cavatelli small shell shaped pasta with slightly rolled in edges. served best with chunky sauces, and salads requiring pasta that will hold sauces and dressings. simil gnocchetti and rotini. caviar these are the eggs of sturgeon that have been salted and cured. grading for caviar is determined by the size and color of the roe and the species of the sturgeon. beluga caviar, which is the most expensive of the three types of caviar, are dark gray in color and are the largest eggs. ossetra caviar are light to medium brown and are smaller grains than beluga. sevruga caviar are the smallest grains, the firmest in texture and are also gray in color. pressed caviar is made of softer, lower quality eggs and have a stronger, fishier flavor. the term malossol is used to describe the amount of salt used in the initial curing process. the roe from other fish such as salmon, lumpfish, and whitefish are not considered caviar, regardless of their label. they should be addressed as roe. caviar should be served as simply as possible. traditional accompaniments, inspired by the russians, are sour cream, blinis, and ice cold vodka. lemon and mince onion are often served with caviar, but their flavors will only detract from the pure delicate flavor of the caviar. cayenne a hot red pepper cayenne pepper made from drying and grinding the small orange red fruits of several pungent species of the bell pepper family, native to the cayenne region of french guyana in northern south america. due to its heat, it should be used sparingly. an ingredient in picante pimentón de la vera. cazón dogfish, shark cazuelas terra cotta earthenware dishes which are glazed on the inside and normally unfinished on the outside. they are the most common pieces of spanish cooking equipment, it retains heat long after the dish has been removed from the stove. these dishes, usually wide and shallow, come in individual as well as casserole sizes. if earthenware frequently are in spain, they should first be cured in water to prevent cracking. an alternative is to place a metal mesh burner cover over the flame to better distriute heat. cebolla onion cebolla de verdeo scallion (young onion) cebolleta shallot cebollita green onion cecina dry cured beef, typical of castilla león, where it is salted, smoked, and cured. as with dry cured jamón serrano, cecina is served very thinly sliced. celeri rave celeriac or celery root celeriac the root of a type of celery with a firm texture and a clean, sweet flavor of celery. cellophane noodles these thin, translucent, flavorless threads of noodle, made from green gram flour, provide texture to the base of soup and stir fried dishes. celsius a temperature scale in which 0 (zero) is freezing and 100 degrees is boiling or steaming cena supper, evening meal served later in the evening, after tapas cepe edible fungus, native to the mushroom family cepes a wild mushroom of the boletus family known for their full flavor and meaty texture. cepillo brush cerdo pork cerdo picado minced pork cerfeuil chervil cerise cherry cerveceria beer bar cervelle brain cerveza beer cervil a mild flavored member of the parsley family, this aromatic herb has curly, dark green leaves with an elusive anise flavor. though most chervil is cultivated for its leaves alone, the root is edible and was, in fact, enjoyed by early greeks and romans. today it is available dried but has the best flavor when fresh. both forms can be found in most supermarkets. it can be used like parsley but its delicate flavor can be diminished when boiled. ceviche chaat salty snacks served with an array of sweet and spicy chutneys. chai the indian name for tea, often served with milk and sugar. chakin sushi vinegar rice wrapped in a thin egg crepe. chakin zushi vinegar rice wrapped in a thin egg crepe. champignon mushroom champiñones mushrooms chanterelle a wild mushroom with a golden color and a funnel shaped cap. the whole mushroom is edible and is savored for its exquisite flavor and firm texture when cooked. chanterelles mushrooms chantilly this is a name for sweetened whipped cream flavored with vanilla. the term may also be used to describe sauces that have had whipped cream folded into them. this includes both sweet and savory sauces. chapelure bread crumbs chappati unleavened indian flatbread made from wheat flour, water, oil, and salt. this bread is traditionally cooked on a tawa, and then brushed with ghee. charcuterie the french word for the variety of pork preparations that are cured, smoked, or processed. this includes sausages, hams, pates, and rillettes. this term may also be used to mean the shop in which these products are sold. charcutier butcher and sausage maker charlotte the name for two different desserts. the first preparation is made of slices of bread which are lined in a mold, filled with fruit, and baked until the bread acquires a golden color and crisp texture. the second version, similar to the first, lines a mold with cake or lady fingers and is filled with a bavarian cream. these may also be filled with whipped cream or even a fruit mousse. more elaborate versions layer the cake with jam, then slices of this cake is used to line the mold. charmoula a sauce and marinade used in middle eastern cooking made of stewed onions flavored with vinegar, honey and a spice mixture called “rasel hanout”. this is a complex spice mixture containing cinnamon, black pepper, cloves, cumin and sometimes paprika and coriander. this sauce is used on meat and fish and can even be adjusted to make a unique vinaigrette. chateaubriand a thick slice of beef from the heart of the tenderloin, grilled or sauteed and simply sauced. many restaurants claim their chateaubriand to be the head of the tenderloin, cut for two, which is roasted and carved tableside. chaud froid hot, cold; food coated with cold, white sauce chawal ice chayote a pear shaped squash, used in latin american cooking, with a taste of zucchini. chayote may be eaten raw or cooked as you would any summer squash. chef de cuisine chef in charge/executive chef chef de partie chef in charge of a section of the kitchen cherimoya also called the custard apple, this is a tropical fruit with a creamy texture and sweet pineapple flavor. chevre the french word for goat, generally referring to goat’s milk cheeses. chevreuil venison chiboust a custard made originally as the filling for the gâteau saint honor, consisting of pastry cream lightened with italian meringue and stabilized with gelatin. chicharron crispy fried pigskin used in mexican cooking for salads, fillings and snacks. chicken tempura chicken and vegetables lightly fried chicoree endive chicory sometimes called curly endive; a type of lettuce (chicory root is sometimes used as a coffee substitute) chiffon a filling made light and fluffy with beaten egg whites or whipped cream chiffonade a very fine julienne of vegetables usually associated with leafy herbs, lettuces, or greens. chiffonnade a ribbon like cut of leafy vegetables ie;lettuce chikuwa browned fish cake with a length long gap. chilaquiles crushed corn tortilla chips cooked with shredded chicken, enchilada salsa, stir fried onions, spices, and melted cheese. chili bean sauce a thick, spicy sauce made from fermented soybeans, red chili peppers, vinegar, starch, salt, and garlic. chili rellenos a mexican dish consisting of a batter fried, cheese stuffed, pablano chili pepper. chilindrón sauce of tomato, pepper, onion, and ham, most commonly applied to chicken and lamb, typical of aragon chimichanga fried flour tortilla stuffed with chicken, beef, lamb, pork or vegetables, and smothered with melted cheese and tomato salsa. chinese dried sausage sweet, salty, pork sausage that resembles pepperoni. chinois a “china cap,” a very fine conical strainer. chipirones baby squid chipirones en su tinta baby squid cooked in their own ink chipolata a type of small sausage or/a type of pastry used for eclairs chipotle a dried and smoked jalapeño which can be found dried or reconstituted and sold in tomato sauce. these chiles are extremely hot and caution should be taken when using them in cooking. chirashi sushi literally “scattered sushi”; an assortment of sliced raw fish and vegetables served on a bed of sushi rice. chirashi zushi literally “scattered sushi”; an assortment of sliced raw fish and vegetables served on a bed of sushi rice. chiringuito beach bar/shack chive related to the onion and leek, this fragrant herb has slender, vivid green, hollow stems. chives have a mild onion flavor and are available round. they are a good source of vitamin a and also contain a fair amount of potassium and calcium.fresh year chocolate a product of cocoa beans in which the chocolate liquor is mixed with cocoa butter in various proportions to produce the different varieties of chocolate. bitter chocolate has no additional ingredients added. other varieties of chocolate have additional cocoa butter added, along with sugar, milk, and vanilla. chocolate de taza rich dark chocolate drink thickened with a slight amount of rice flour. chocos small cuttlefish chop to cut into non uniformed pieces or rough cut chop suey a dish consisting of small pieces of meat or chicken cooked with bean sprouts and vegetables. served with rice. chorizo a spicy pork sausage common in hispanic countries, ranging in seasoning from mild and sweet to fiercely hot. it comes in fresh, smoked, or cured versions. choron a variation of bearnaise sauce with tomato puree or concasse added. chorrito dash chou fleur cauliflower choucroute french word for “sauerkraut.” chounk a melange of spices, herbs, oil, and vegetables that flavors many indian dishes. chufa nut strainer used to make horchata, it is a conical strainer with an ultra fine mesh which is used with a tapered wooden pestle to strain and press down chifa nuts to make a very smooth puree. churro a fritter, deep fried tube of batter, often eaten with thick drinking chocolate (chocolate de taza) chutney the name for a large range of sauces or relishes made with fruits, vegetables, and herbs. commonly used in east indian cooking. fresh chutneys have a bright, clean flavor and are usually thin, smooth sauces. cilantro, mint, and tamarind are common in fresh chutney. cooked chutneys have a deeper, broader flavor. chutoro a marbled tuna roll ciabatta flattish slipper shaped loaves of bread with a pale crisp crust that is made with olive oil, and flavored with fresh or dried herbs, olives, or sun dried tomatoes. delicious when served warm or used for sandwiches. cilantro fresh, green coriander cinnamon the highly aromatic inner bark of several laurel trees native to sri lanka and the east indies can be rolled and sold as quills or sticks, or ground into a spice. cinnamon can be used to flavor both sweet and savory dishes. cioppino a rich fish stew from san francisco made with shrimp, clams, mussels, crabs, and any available fish. the broth is flavored with tomato, white wine, garlic, and chile flakes. this stew needs no other courses served but a simple green salad and a lot of sourdough bread. ciruela plum ciruela seca dried plum, prune civet a french stew usually containing game, though duck and goose are used. the meat is marinated in red wine for long periods of time, then stewed with pearl onions and bacon. the sauce was once thickened with blood, but that is a method not used much anymore. clafouti a dessert of fruit, originally cherries, covered with a thick batter and baked until puffy. the dessert can be served hot or cold. clara de huevo egg white clarify a process of making a liquid clear; removing milk solids and impurities from butter resulting in a pure golden liquid butter used for many cooking purposes clavo de olor clove clotted cream this specialty of devonshire, england (which is why it is also known as devon cream) is made by gently heating rich, unpasteurized milk until a semisolid layer of cream forms on the surface. after cooling the thickened cream is removed. it can be spread on bread or spooned atop fresh fruit or desserts. the traditional english “cream tea” consists of clotted cream and jam served with scones and tea. clotted cream can be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to four days. clouter onion cloute; an onion studded with cloves; verb coat to cover food with another product cocer al horno bake cochinillo suckling pig cocido long simmered stew based on chickpeas or other legumes, which includes vegetables, meats, and embutidos / sausages cocina casera good home cooking, plain fare cocinar cook cocinar a fuego lento simmer coco coconut cocoa en polvo cocoa powder cocoa powder this is the dried powder formed from chocolate liquor after the cocoa butter content has been reduced. this mixture is then dried and ground into a fine powder. dutch process cocoa has been treated with alkali to give a darker appearance and less bitter taste. breakfast cocoa has sugar, milk solids, and other flavorings added to it. coconut milk this is not the liquid that is found in the center of coconuts, but a thick liquid made by steeping fresh grated coconut in hot water. the hot water helps to extract the fat from the coconut meat, which carries so much of this flavor. cocotte an oven proof dish (small) codfish a favorite in spain since medieval times  brought by the vast spanish fishing fleet. it has distinctive flavor which is best enjoyed when the bacalao is prepared with a sauce, such as the basque bacalau al pil pil, or a parsley based green sauce alone. look for cod that is well dried and white   preferably with the skin on for baked dishes, although cod that has been boned and skinned before drying is easier to handle. to rehydrate and remove the excess salt bacalao needs a soaking period of about 24 hourst. codorniz quail coeur à la crème meaning “the heart of the cream”, this is a soft cheese dessert where the mixture is drained in a mold to help it set. the cheese is then turned out onto a platter and served with fruit and bread. coeur e la creme meaning “the heart of the cream”, this is a soft cheese dessert where the mixture is drained in a mold to help it set. the cheese is then turned out onto a platter and served with fruit and bread. alternate versions use mixtures of ricotta and cream cheese and flavored with liquor and citrus juice. this is then molded and served with a berry coulis. cogollo lettuce heart, also dwarf lettuce col cabbage colar strain coliflor cauliflower collard greens one of a variety of “greens” with a firm leaf and sharp flavor. colombo a west indian stew seasoned with a spice mixture of the same name. this is similar to curry powder, containing coriander, chiles, cinnamon, nutmeg, saffron, and garlic. the stew may contain pork, chicken, or fish. vegetables are cooked in the stew and rice and beans are served on the side. colorante alimenticio food coloring combinar combine combine mixing ingredients together comedor dining room comida meal, dinner, lunch comida chatarra junk food comino cumin comiso packed lunch commis apprentice in the kitchen or dining room compangu refers to meats and embutidos used in fabada with lamb completamente thoroughly compote a french dessert made from fresh or dried fruit cooked in sugar syrup. concasse the term for chopping a vegetable coarsely. this is used most often when referring to chopped tomatoes. concasser to chop roughly(usually tomatoes) conchiglie large shell shaped pasta noodles. these are often stuffed and baked au gratin. concombre cucumber condimento seasoning conejo rabbit confit this is a preparation for meat to preserve it for long periods of time when fresh meat would be scarce. the meat is first salted to remove moisture. it is then cooked at the lowest of simmers, submerged in fat, until the meat is buttery tender. after the meat is cooled, it is stored in crocks and covered with the fat to prevent exposure to air. the whole crock is stored to help age the meat. during this aging period the meat develops a new flavor, completely different from its original state. when ready to eat, the meat is fried in a skillet or grilled until the skin is crisp and the meat is warmed through. duck confit was once served with potatoes fried in the same duck fat as the confit. this practice is less popular now, but good companions to the confit are lentils or bitter green salads to balance the richness of the meat. fatty meats such as duck, goose, and pork work best in confit. confit is an indispensable component in cassoulet. confiture jam congelado frozen congelador freezer congrio conger eel conservante preservative conservar preserve consistencia consistency consomme a clarified broth used as a base for sauces and soups. copos de avena oats coppa the loin or shoulder of pork that is cured, cooked and dried. it is served thinly sliced for antipasto or on sandwiches or pizza. coq au vin a chicken stewed in red wine, flavored with bacon, mushrooms, and pearl onions. coquille cooked and served in a shell coquille st jacques a scallop corazones de alcachofa artichoke hearts corbeille basket cordero lamb core remove the center of fruits coriander a dried, warm, sweet, light brown, aromatic herb. this zesty combination of sage and citrus is considered one of the most memorable and versatile of all the spices. coriander, typically blended with cumin, curry powders, chili powders, garam masala, berbere, fruit juices, and lemon, flavors marinades and enhances north american, mediterranean, north african, mexican, indian, and southeast asian cuisines. corn syrup dextrose, maltose, or glucose obtained by converting starch with acids. this syrup is used in baking, primarily to prevent the crystallization of sugar. corser to flavor and enrich cortado en cuatro quartered cortar trim cortar en cuadritos diced cortar en lonchas finas thinly sliced cortijo country house, farmhouse, esp. in andalusia costillas spare ribs cote a cut of meat; a piece of meat attached to the rib(cote de boeuf) cotechino a fresh pork sausage with a very fine consistency and delicate flavor. it contains a small amount of ground pork rind, coteca in italian, thus giving it the name.it is a large sausage, about 3″x 9″, used in stews and pasta e fagioli. cotelette cutlet coulibiac a russian pie made with alternating layers of salmon, hard cooked eggs, rice, mushroom duxelle, and vesiga. vesiga is the spinal marrow of sturgeon and has all but disappeared from commercial markets. the dough used to wrap the pie can be pate brisee, puff pastry, or brioche dough. crepes are often layered in the bottom of the pie. coulis a puree of fruit or vegetables, used as a sauce or flavoring agent to other sauces or soups. as sauces, they are thinned down just enough to reach the proper consistency, but not so much as to alter the intense flavor of the puree. couper to cut coupes small bowls courgette the french word for zucchini. court bouillon a poaching liquid used to cook fish, etc. couscous a pasta made from semolina (which itself is a flour made from durum wheat).the name couscous also refers to the famous maghreb dish in which semolina or cracked wheat is steamed in the perforated top part of a special pot called a couscoussiere, while chunks of meat (usually chicken or lamb), various vegetables, chickpeas and raisins simmer in the bottom part. the cooked semolina is heaped onto a large platter, with the meats and vegetables placed on top. diners use chunks of bread to scoop the couscous from the platter. crackling crispy pieces of skin remaining after the fat is rendered. commonly made from pork, duck, and goose it is used in salads, stuffings, and seasonings. cream this is the portion of milk that rises to the top when milk has not been homogenized. cream is defined by its varying amounts of butterfat content. half and half cream is a mixture of milk and cream, resulting in a butterfat content of 12%. sour cream and light cream have a butterfat content of 18 20%. heavy cream will have no less than 30% butterfat, averages around 36%, and will go as high as 40%. crema cream crema catalana a traditional catalan custard with a caramel crust, similar to creme brulee creme cream creme anglaise this is a custard made of milk and eggs. it is used both as a sauce for desserts and as a base for mousses. creme caramel like the spanish flan, this is a baked custard that is flavored with caramel. when the dish is inverted, the caramel creates a sauce for the dessert. creme fraiche a naturally thickened fresh cream that has a sharp, tangy flavor and rich texture. this is an expensive item to buy, but a good substitute can be made by mixing heavy cream with uncultured buttermilk and allowed to stand, well covered, in a tepid place until thickened. creme patissierre this is a thick pastry cream made of milk, eggs, and flour. other versions of this use all or a portion of cornstarch. crepaze a cake made of crepes layered with vegetables, cheese, or ham. the cake is then baked to blend the flavors and help set it so that it may be cut into wedges. crepe a very thin pancake used for sweet and savory fillings. crepinette a small sausage patty wrapped in caul fat. they are filled with ground pork, veal, or poultry and fried or grilled. some are shaped into balls. you may also use cooked meat or vegetables to flavor a forcemeat in the crepinette. crespelle an italian pancake, similar to a crˆpe, used in place of pasta in preparations of dishes like manicotti and cannelloni. crevette (grise) shrimp crevette (rose) prawn croissants crescent shaped french rolls croque monsieur the french version of a grilled ham and cheese sandwich with gruyere cheese. croquembouche a grand dessert made up of cream puffs that are dipped in caramel and assembled into a large pyramid shape. the whole dessert is then brushed with more caramel and elaborately decorated. croquetas breaded croquettes filled with a thick bechamel, incorporating chopped ham, boiled egg, chicken. croquette a thick patty made up of cooked foods. these patties or balls are breaded and fried or saut‚ed. vegetables, fish, or meat may be used in croquettes. crostini toasted bread slices which are brushed with olive oil and served with tomatoes, pumate, cheese, chicken liver mousse, bean puree, or tapenade. see also canapé. croustade pastry crust croutons bread that is cut into smaller pieces and toasted or fried until crisp. this includes cubes for salads and slices for soups and hors d’oeuvres. cru raw crudite a selection of raw vegetables served with a dip. crudo term that often means raw or rare crujiente, crocante crispy crush to reduce food to small particles using a tool (rolling pin or mortar and pestle) cuajar curdle cuajo rennet cube to cut up into regular sizes cubrir cover cuchara tablespoon cuchara para medir measuring spoon cucharada tablespoon cucharadita, cucharilla teaspoon cucharones ladles cuenco bowls cuire to cook cuisine brigade staff organization set up within the kitchen cuit cooked culantro an herb grown in latin america. not to be confused with cilantro. though the two are related, culantro has a larger leaf and is usually used cooked. culatello the heart of the prosciutto. cumberland sauce an english sauce used for ham, game, and pâtés. the sauce is made of currant jelly mixed with lemon and orange juice and port wine. cumin indigenous to the eastern mediterranean, cumin whole or ground cumin seeds to flavor savory dishes and breads. the pungent,nutty flavor can be enhanced by dry roasting before use. curry a spicy powder made by grinding and blending various herbs and spices, including cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, cloves, fenugreek, red peppers, and nutmeg. curry powder this is a mix of spices that we have come to know of by the muslim variety found in stores. yet this is a mixture that is unique to everyone’s kitchen. they may be mild with spices like cumin, fennel, and coriander; or heated up a bit with chiles and pepper; or fragrant with cinnamon and saffron. all of these are considered curry powders and all of them have distinctly different applications. look under the definition for garam masala for more information. cuscurro crouton cut in the process of combining solid fat (such as butter or shortening) with a dry ingredient (such as flour) until small pea size particles are formed; as is done when making pie crust or biscuits cuttlefish a cousin to the squid, that is also prized for its ink sac as well as its flesh. dacquoise a cake made of nut meringues layered with whipped cream or buttercream. the nut meringue disks are also referred to as dacquoise. dahi yogurt daikon a sharp, but somewhat sweet tasting, crunchy chinese white radish often used to season salads, soups, vegetables, tofu, and stir fried dishes. dal a puree of lentils, peas, and/or beans. daal complements the main dish and serves as an essential protein supplement to meatless diets. sometimes spelled as “daal” or “dhal.” dalchini cinnamon dango balls of mochi served on bamboo skewers. darne a thick steak cut of salmon dash about 1/16th of a teaspoon; a “pinch” or less dashi a basic soup and cooking stock made from fish and seaweed. often topped with dried bonito tuna flakes. daube a stew consisting of a single piece of meat such as a shoulder or joint. the meat is stewed in a rich, wine laden broth with herbs and vegetables. the broth is then thickened, reduced and served with the slices of meat and accompanying vegetables. dauphine the name for little puffs made of potato puree, that are mixed with choux paste and deep fried. dauphinoise the name of a potato gratin with lots of cream and garlic, all topped with gruyere cheese. de grano grueso coarse de horno ovenproof debarrasser to clear away debrider to remove trussing twine after cooking process deep fry to cook submerged in very hot fat (like french fries) until golden brown deglacer to dilute the roasting plaque with an acid (wine, etc.) deglaze a process of adding liquid to a hot pan in order to collect the bits of food which stick to the pan during cooking. this is most common with sautéed and roasted foods. wine, stock, and vinegar are common deglazing liquids. degraisser to skin off grease from stews, sauces etc. dégustacion tasting or sampling of food or drink dehuesado boned dejar en adobo, marinar marinade, marinate demi glace half glaze, usually meaning brown sauce made from veal bones demi tasse meaning “half cup”or, a small cup of black coffee denomination de origen an official system of quality control and protecting the quality and authenticity of speciality products and wines dentice snapper (fish) depouiller to remove scum from the surface of a cooking liquid derretido melted derretir melt des to dice desalar to remove the salt from a salt cured product, such as cod or bacalao, by soaking it in water desayuno breakfast descamar remove scales from fish desgrasar skimming fat from the surface of a soup desosser to debone poultry or fish despensa larder despepar to remove the seeds or stones from fruit or vegetables devil to add hot, spicy ingredients (pepper, tabasco, cayenne, mustard) to a food devon cream please see “clotted cream” dhania cilantro or coriander dhokla steamed batter bread diablotins small gnocchi or croutons topped with grated cheese and browned diavolillo the super hot chili typically infused into olive oil, soups, marinades, meat, poultry, and (most commonly) spaghetti sauce. spaghetti al diavolillo is a hot, piquant italian dish. dice to cut into regular sized cubes; small, medium or large dientes de ajo cloves of garlic digestivo a liqueur a strong liqueur typically consumed after dinner to help digestion dijonnaise this is a name given to dishes that contain mustard or are served with a sauce that contains mustard. dim sum a selection of small dishes served for snacks and lunch in china. these dishes include a wide selection of fried and steamed dumplings, as well as, various other sweet and savory items. dinde turkey dindonneau young fresh turkey direct heat a grilling method of cooking, allowing food to be cooked directly over a flame or heat source dissolve to stir a dry substance into a liquid until no solids remain ditalini short pasta tubes. do pyaza a mildly flavored creamy dish cooked with onions and meat. doblar fold dolce sweet; dessert dollop a scoop or spoonful of food placed on top of another food dolma a cold hors d oeuvre made of grape leaves stuffed with cooked rice, lamb, and onion. they are marinated with olive oil and lemon. vegetarian versions of this are also made. donburi a large bowl used for noodle and rice dishes; dishes that are prefixed or suffixed with “don” are served in this type of bowl. these dishes typically feature a topping on a bed of rice. dorada gilthead bream fish dorado browned, fried golden yellow dorar to brown dosa southern indian pancakes that have been cooked and oiled on a tawa. although there are many variations, the basic batter is made from rice and daal, which have been soaked and wet ground into a creamy batter. various sweet or savory fillings are rolled into this popular delicacy. dough a combination of flour, water or milk and sometimes a leaven (yeast) to make a mixture for baking drain to remove and discard the liquid contents from a cooking process (as in draining cooked potatoes or vegetables) dredge to lightly coat food to be pan fried or sautéed (usually with flour, cornmeal or bread crumbs). drippings the juices and fat that is collected from the pan of cooked foods dry aging a process usually referring to beef. this process not only adds flavor but tenderizes the beef through enzyme action. maximum flavor and tenderness is acheived in 21 days. du jour meaning literally “of the day” duchess the name for potato puree that is enriched with cream, then piped into decorative shapes and browned in the oven. they are often piped around the rim of a platter onto which a roast or whole fish may be served. dulce sweet dum “to steam or mature”; a method of steaming foods, in a tightly covered or sealed pot, to retain the flavor and aroma. duraznos peaches durian a large fruit from southeast asia that has a creamy, gelatinous texture and a nauseating smell similar to that of stinky feet. the flesh is savored by many from this area, but outsiders find it a difficult flavor to become accustomed. dutch oven a large, deep pot that is covered with a tight fitting lid duxelle chopped shallots and mushrooms seasoned, cooked in butter ebi fresh boiled shrimp echalote shallot eclairs choux pastry baked in the size of thick fingers, then filled with cream ectended meal service customers eat at different times. often called a la carte cooking b/c customers usually select items from a written menu. ie: restaurants, short order counters. écula potato starch edaimame boiled green soybeans edomae sushi small rice balls usually topped with fish and wasabi. although there are several varieties of nigirizushi, the most common include tuna, shrimp, shellfish, eel, squid, and octopus. edomae zushi small rice balls usually topped with fish and wasabi. although there are several varieties of nigirizushi, the most common include tuna, shrimp, shellfish, eel, squid, and octopus. effiler to remove the fibrous string from a string bean; to thinnly slice almonds. egg salad roll a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around hard cooked eggs, mayonnaise, and green onion strips. egg threads lightly beaten eggs that are poured slowly into a hot broth, creating irregular shaped threads used to garnish soups. egg wash liquefied eggs; beaten eggs with milk or water sometimes added; used in the breading process, in sealing pieces of dough and to coat some baked goods for a shiny look when baked ejotes string beans eliche helical pasta elote corn on the cob embutidos a generic term for sausage meats, whether cured, cooked, or fresh. emincer to cut into thin slices, shorter than for julienne. this term is most often used when referring to meats, but it also applies to fruits and vegetables. empanada a small savory pie from spain and south america. fillings may be made of meat, seafood, or vegetables. the fillings can be seasoned in many ways. those from around spain are flavored with peppers, onions, and tomatoes. those from south america have a sweet/sour undertone from the addition of raisins and green olives. crusts may be made from bread dough or flaky dough like pate brisee and puff pastry. empanadilla small empanada turnover stuffed with tuna, minced meat, spm,i, i raisins, etc. emulsion small particles of oil or another liquid suspended in the other (e.g. vinaigrette salad dressing) en in, meaning “served in” en lata tinned, in a can en papillote technique of cooking (usually fish) in parchment paper en su jugo in its own juices en trozos sliced en trozos menudos finely chopped en vez de instead of encebollado cooked with fried onion, especially liver or tuna encender to ingnite enchiladas folded and baked corn tortillas stuffed with ground beef, shredded chicken, pork, or vegetables. enchiladas are usually fairly mild and topped with red salsa, sour cream, and melted cheese. encina holm oak endibias endives endivia chicory endulzante sweetener endulzar to sweeten eneldo dill enfriar chill engrasado greased engrasar to oil enoki mushrooms highly esteemed mushrooms that have long thin stems topped with a tiny white cap. they have a crisp and crunchy texture when fresh, but tend to become tough when heated. ensalada salad entero whole entradas starters, hors d’oeuvres entrecote a steak cut from the rib section of beef. it is boneless and has a very thin layer of fat. though steaks cut from the loin ends of the rib are a finer quality steak, the whole rib may be used for entrecete. the term is sometimes used referring to a strip steak. this is not an accurate description. this cut of beef is called the faux filet or contre filet. entrée in france, this term refers to the first course of a meal after the soup but before the main course. in the united states, the entrée is the main dish. entremeses starters, hors d’oeuvres entremetier a chef in which prepares vegetables & egg dishes entremets desserts, or sweets epaule shoulder eperlan smelt epinards spinach escabeche a highly seasoned marinade used to flavor and preserve food. fish and chicken are the most common foods used for escabeche. first the meat is fried and placed in a dish large enough to hold all of the food in one layer. then a marinade made of onions, peppers, vinegar, and spices is poured over the food while hot. the whole dish is then allowed to rest overnight and served cold. escaldar to scald escalfado poached escalivada salad of charcoal grilled vegetables escalope a thinly sliced food similar to a scallopine. this may consist of meat, fish, or vegetables. escanciar to aerate cider by pouring it from a height into a glass. escargot edible snail escurrir drain espagnole basic brown sauce espagnole sauce this is the foundation of all of the brown sauces. a number of modifications have been made of this sauce since its conception. the sauce is now made of a rich brown veal stock thickened with a brown roux. the sauce is then simmered with a mirepoix, bouquet garni, and wine. the long, slow cooking help to purify and concentrate its flavor. it is finally strained through very fine muslin. demi glace and glace de viande are all structured around a fine espagnole sauce. espaguetis spaghetti espárrago asparagus especias spices espesar thicken espeso stiff espina spine, specifically refers to fish bones or thorns espinacas spinach espresso one of the darkest and strongest types of coffee available. usually produced by forcing steam through finely ground premium coffee beans. espuma foam espumadera slotted spoon estofado stew estouffade brown meat stock estragon tarragon etuver to cook slowly covered with a minimum amount of liquid eviche raw fish marinated in lime juice. often prepared in a chopped salad. exprimir squeeze extra virgin olive oil the finest, strongest, fruitiest olive oil produced. to preserve its robust flavor, this olive oil is usually used exclusively in salads or unheated dishes. fabrication the act of breaking down large cuts of meat into smaller parts by cutting, boning, and portioning. fahrenheit a temperature scale in which 32 degrees represents freezing and 212 degrees is the steam point( to convert fahrenheit to celsius, subtract 32 from the fahrenheit reading, multiply by 5 and divide by 9; better yet have a thermometer that reads both scales) faisan pheasant falafel a middle eastern specialty consisting of small, deep fried croquettes or balls made of highly spiced, ground chickpeas. they are generally tucked inside pita bread, sandwich style, but can also be served as appetizers. a yogurt or tahini based sauce is often served with falafel. farce forcemeat farfalle literally “butterflies;” also called “bow tie pasta.” normally has crinkled edges. usually available ridged or plain, and in a variety of colors. farinaceous made from, rich in, or consisting of starch. having a mealy of powdery texture fatback fat from a pig’s back. can be used as cooking fat, or rendered to produce lard. fava bean this tan, rather flat bean resembles a very large lima bean. it comes in a large pod which, unless very young, is inedible. fava beans can be purchased dried, cooked in cans and, infrequently, fresh. if you find fresh fava beans, choose those with pods that are not bulging with beans, which indicates age. fava beans have a very tough skin, which should be removed by blanching before cooking. they are very popular in mediterranean and middle eastern dishes. they can be cooked in a variety of ways and are often used in soups. also called faba bean, broad bean and horse bean. fedelini very thin, spaghetti like pasta. feijoa a fruit grown in new zealand with a thin green skin and a flavor reminiscent of strawberry, banana, and pineapple. feijoada a brazilian dish very similar to cassoulet, made with black beans. sausage, bacon, ham, and various cuts of pork are cooked in with the beans. the traditional accompaniments are plain white rice, cooked greens, fresh orange slices, and a very hot sauce, similar to pico de gallo, called molho carioca. toasted cassava flour is used as a condiment, to be added by each diner. this too is a very substantial dish and needs little else to accompany it. feni an alcoholic drink made from cashews or coconuts. feni is usually distilled by locals in a disorganized fashion, akin to moonshine in the united states. fenouil fennel fenugreek a very hard seed grown in the middle east, which is used as a spice. its dominant flavor and aroma is recognizable in commercial curry powders. fermented bean curd a strong, salty cheese made by fermenting bean curd cubes in rice wine, salt, sesame oil, or chili. fermented black beans aromatic beans cooked with salt, ginger, and/or orange rind. fettuccine literally, “little ribbons.” basic flat egg noodles. ficelle the french word for string. this is a term used in cooking to describe foods that have been tied to a string and cooked in a broth. this was a practice in villages when a communal pot was used to cook food. the string was used in order to allow the owners to identify and recover their piece of meat. this is generally applied to tough cuts of meat that require long periods of cooking. yet, some restaurants are using the term to describe a more tender cut of meat that is poached in a rich broth. beef filet and duck breasts are two good choices for this type of preparation. fideo thin macaroni like pasta fideua pasta based paella type dish made in the paella, originating in alicante. filet fillet; a thin cut of meat, fish, poultry removed from the bone filet mignon small center cut from the tenderloin of beef. fillet to remove the bones from fish or meat before cooking (fish fillet, meat filet) filter to remove impurities or particles of food by pouring through cheesecloth or a strainer or “china cap” (chinoise) financier a small cake or cookie that is made with ground nuts and whipped egg whites. these are soft like sponge cake, and have a rich flavor of nuts. fines herbes a fine mixture of herbs used to season finnan haddie the scottish name for smoked haddock. fino a pale crisp white sherry of around 15 per cent alcohol, generally from jerez de la frontera and puerto de santa maría. it is the traditional andalusian accompaniment to appetizers, tapas, and seafood finocchio fennel finocchiona flavorful tuscan salami that enhances any antipasto platter. made from finely ground pork flavored with fennel seeds, garlic, salt, and pepper. fish sauce a thin brown sauce made by fermenting fish with salt and soy sauce. five spice powder a dry spice mix used in chinese cooking consisting of cinnamon, star anise, pepper, clove, and fennel. five spice powder a popular blend of ancient spices consisting of ground star anise, cloves, cinnamon, fennel seeds and szechuan peppercorns. flake to break food into small pieces (or allow it to do so when cooking) flamber to flame flamebee a method of cooking in which foods are splashed with liquor and ignited flan this is a term that may be used to describe two different preparations. the first use of this word is describes an open top tart that is filled with pastry cream and topped with fruit. in spanish and mexican cooking, “flan” is an egg custard that is baked in a large shallow dish, and flavored with caramel. the dish is inverted when served and the excess caramel is used as a sauce for the flan. the flan may be flavored with orange, anise, cinnamon, or liqueur. flauta thin, crisp, baguette style loaf of bread fletan halibut fleuron a small crescent shaped pastry made of puff dough that is used to garnish fish dishes and soups. florentine this is used to describe foods that are cooked in the style of florence. the word is most commonly associated with dishes containing spinach and sometimes a cream sauce. steak cooked ala florentine is a large t bone steak, rubbed with olive oil and garlic, grilled and served with fresh lemon on the side. flour this is the finely ground grain of wheat, corn, rice, oat, rye, or barley. unless specified, this term refers to wheat flour. flour is milled from a variety of wheats containing different amounts of protein. the different levels of protein give each flour unique qualities. all purpose flour is the most commonly used, especially by the domestic market. this flour is milled from both hard and soft wheats, giving it the strength needed in bread baking, but leaving it tender enough for cakes and pastries. bread flour has a higher protein content so that it may withstand the constant expansion of the cell walls during proofing and baking. cake flour is milled from soft wheat, thus containing a very low protein content and preventing the development of gluten. pastry flour is of relatively low protein content, containing just enough to help stabilize the products during leavening. whole wheat flours are milled from the whole kernel, thus giving it a higher fiber content and a substantial protein content. semolina is milled from hard durum wheat, being used mainly for commercial baking and pasta production. flute a decorative scalloped edge on pastry or pie crusts; vegetables can be fluted as a way to make them have more eye appeal focaccia an italian flatbread often topped with olive oil, herbs, garlic, and cheese. traditionally served as a complement to an antipasto. focaccio an italian flatbread made with pizza or bread dough, that can be baked plain or topped with onions, zucchini, eggplant, cheese, or whatever you choose. foie liver foie gras fattened duck or goose liver. fold combining two or more products with a spatula or spoon using a side to side motion and a top to bottom motion fond basic stock or essences fond blanc white stock fond brun brown stock fonda lodging house, in catalonia, also implies restaurant fondant this is an icing made of sugar syrup and glucose, which is cooked to a specific temperature and then kneaded to a smooth, soft paste. this paste can then be colored or flavored and used as an icing for cakes and petit fours. fondente flourless cake; baking chocolate fondo pan juices after cooking meat or fish fonds d’artichaut artichoke bottoms fondue there are several different types of fondue, the most notable of which is cheese fondue. this is a swiss specialty in which cheese is melted with wine, eggs, and seasonings and served with bread and fresh vegetables. fondue bourguignonne is a pot of hot oil into which the diners will cook strips of meat and dip them into an array of sauces on the table. similar to this is fondue chinois where the hot oil is replaced by a rich chicken or meat broth. the meat, and fish too, are then cooked in this stock and dipped in sauces. the japanese have a dish called shabu shabu, which is similar to this type of fondue. named for the swishing sound that the meat makes in the broth, this dish is also served with vegetables and noodles in to be eaten along with the meat. a chocolate fondue is a chocolate bath, flavored with liqueur and eaten with bread and fruit, like fresh berries. these are all dishes eaten as much for their social qualities as their culinary grandeur. their popularity in the us has diminished over the last 15 years, only being seen in ski resorts and at private dinner parties. fonduta an italian style fondue made of fontina cheese and served over toast or polenta. exceptional with truffles. fontaine a well made in dry flour to add liquid fontina a delicate, nutty, slightly smoky tasting cheese used for “fonduta”, or an italian version of the swiss “fondue”. foogat a lightly cooked vegetable dish. formas shapes fouetter to whisk fougasse a flatbread from france that was once served sweetened with sugar and orange water. it is now more commonly seen as a bread eaten with savory dishes. in this case, the dough is brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with herbs or salt before baking. foyot this is a variation of a bearnaise sauce with the addition of a well reduced meat glaze. fraise strawberry framboise raspberry frangipane a pastry cream made of butter, eggs, flour, and finely ground almonds or macaroons. modern versions will use a combination of cornstarch and flour. the nuts must be very finely ground for this to be successful. this type of raw cream is baked in the pastry shell or crepe. frangipane is also the name for a type of panada used in making forcemeats. frappe iced freiduria fried fish shop fresa strawberry fresh rice noodles flat, thread like, white noodles made from rice flour. fricandeau veal braised until very tender fricando traditional catalan beef stew fricassee a stew prepared without the initial browning of the meat. though chicken is the most common form of this type of stew, fish, vegetables, and other meats are prepared in this manner. frigorífico refrigerator frijol lima bean frijoles beans frijoles refritos refried pinto beans boiled with seasoning until tender, then crushed and sauteed in canola oil. frire to fry frit fried frito fried in oil;often coated in egg and flour before frying as in fish and shell fish frittata an italian open faced omelet. fritter food that has been dipped in batter and deep fried or saut‚ed. these may consist of vegetables, meat, fish, shellfish, or fruit. the food may be dipped in the batter or mixed with the batter and dropped into the hot fat to form little balls. japanese tempura fried foods are a type of fritter, though this term is not applied to it. fritto misto an italian mixed fried platter, similar to the japanese tempura platter. a mixture of vegetables, meat, and fish are dipped in a light batter and quickly deep fried to prevent a saturation of grease into the food. frizzle to fry julienne vegetables in hot oil until crisp frollini shortbread cookies frotar to rub fruit pectin a substance found naturally in fruits such as apples, quince, and all citrus fruits. pectins ability to gel liquids makes it a key ingredient in jelly and jam making. you can purchase pectin in powder or liquid form, or use high pectin fruits in the recipe. frullato an italian milkshake that is made with milk and fresh fruit. fruta fruit fuego fuerte high heat fugu a poisonous blowfish considered a delicacy. in japan, only licensed fugu chefs are allowed to prepare fugu or puffer fish. fuki a japanese fibrous butterbur vegetable often simmered in broth. fumet an aromatic broth made for use in soups and sauces. the flavor of a fumet is usually concentrated on one item, though multiple ingredients may be used. the stock is then reduced to concentrate this flavor. fish and vegetable broths are more commonly called fumets, but meat may also be used. fungetiello pasta sauce made with black olives and capers. funghi mushrooms fusilli spiral shaped pasta. some versions are shaped like a spring. other versions are shaped like a twisted spiral. futo maki large, oversized rolls futomaki large, oversized rolls gachas savory porridge with fried tocino, panceta, etc., galanga a root spice related to ginger, which has a musky flavor reminiscent of saffron. it is found dried whole or in slices, and also in powder. galantine a pate like dish made of the skin of a small animal, most often chicken or duck, which is stuffed with a forcemeat of this animal. galantines stuffed chicken or veal in the form of a large roll, usually glazed with galette this is french for pancake, usually sweet, made of batters, doughs, or potatoes. brioche type dough or puff pastry are often used. small short butter cookies were once also called galettes. gallego a native of galicia, and the language spoken there. galleta cookie galleta salada pretzel galletas cookies gallina hen gamba prawn, shrimp gambero shrimp (or crayfish) ganache a chocolate coating made with chocolate, egg yolks and heavy cream; used as filling for truffles and coating for pies and other desserts ganbas al ajillo garlic shrimp fried in garlic and hot peppers gancho de carnicero meat hook garam masala literally “warm spices;” a blend of spices used to flavor dishes. may include cumin, fennel, coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, saffron, pepper, chiles, and/or caraway. garbanzos chick peas garbure a thick vegetable soup garde manger cold kitchen, a chef who is in charge of the cold foods in the kitchen gari a sushi bar term that refers to pickled ginger garlic a single aromatic bulb that can be easily separated into cloves, all individually wrapped in papery skins. it is pungent and slightly bitter flavored when raw, but becomes mild and sweet tasting when sauteed or baked. garlic bread bread that has been spread with garlic butter and then baked or broiled. instead of using garlic butter, the bread may be brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with minced garlic and herbs. garlic toast slices of french or italian bread that are flavored with garlic butter and herbs, then oven toasted to a crispy texture. this toast, which may also be flavored with olive oil, is often served as the bread that accompanies a main meal. garnish a decorative touch added to dishes and beverages garniture to garnish garrofo large flat white bean, used in paella gaza game, game dishes gazpacho a cold vegetable soup served throughout all of the spanish countries. the most common version is one made with a coarse puree of fresh tomatoes flavored with vinegar and olive oil, embellished with diced raw vegetables like onions, cucumbers, and peppers. a light gazpacho is made with a puree of cucumber, and served with an array of garnishes for the diner to choose from. roasted almonds, avocadoes, and croutons are common garnishes. gelatin a protein produced from animals, used to gel liquids. it is found in granular and sheet form. gelatina jelly gelato fine italian ice cream gelato di crema smooth, fresh, lemony custard ice cream. gellan gum gellan gum is a water soluble anionic polysaccharide produced by the bacterium sphingomonas elodea (formerly pseudomonas elodea based on the taxonomic classification at the time of its discovery).. the gellan producing bacterium was discovered and isolated by the former kelco division of merck & company, inc. genoa salami a mild, spicy, italian cured sausage often made of only pork, and typically seasoned with garlic, salt, peppercorns, and red wine. included in most antipastos. genoise a very rich sponge cake made with eggs and butter. this may be eaten as is with whipped cream or fruit, but also used as the foundation for many other cake preparations. geoduck a long neck, slightly crunchy sweet clam geta the wooden block used as a plate for gari, wasabi, and smaller pieces of sushi. ghee clarified, nut flavored butter. made by slowly melting butter, skimming the foam, and saving the remaining golden liquid. indian cooks simmer the butter until all the moisture evaporates. ghee is used for cooking vegetables and meats. gibier game gigot d’agneau leg of lamb ginebra gin ginkgo a bright green and delicately sweet flavored nut. glace a highly reduced stock used as an essence in flavoring sauces and enriching soups and stews. veal glace is used for all meat preparations and stands up the best to the long reduction required. fish and shellfish glaces are used, but their flavor can become edirtye tasting and bitter from too long of a reduction. glace de poisson fish glaze glace de viande meat glaze glacer to; (a) freeze or chill (b)to cook to acquire a shiny surface (c) to slightly brown food under a salamander(broiler) glasear to glaze or coat with sugar or friut preserves glaze a liquid that gives a shiny surface to an item gluten the protein found in wheat flours. gnocchetti curved shell pasta with ridges on the outer surface. gnocchi these are small dumplings made with flour, potatoes, and eggs. other versions include spinach, semolina, sweet potatoes, chopped herbs, and parmesan or ricotta cheese. once the gnocchi are made they are cooked in boiling water, and then sauced or tossed with melted butter. some recipes call for cooking the gnocchi in broth. gnocchi is also the name of a pasta with a similar shape. gobo long, slender burdock root gohan plain boiled rice. goma sesame seeds gomoku sushi literally “scattered sushi”; an assortment of sliced raw fish and vegetables served on a bed of sushi rice. gorgonzola creamy, pale yellow, mold ripened cheese with streaks of blue veining and a lightly spicy flavor. considered one of the best blue cheeses available, gorgonzola is usually served with slices of fruit or crumbled into salads. gougere a savory pastry made of choux paste flavored with cheese. this may be made in individual puffs or piped into a ring of puffs, which is served with a pool of sauce in the center of the ring. goulash a hungarian soup/stew made with beef and liberally seasoned with paprika. some versions add gremolata at the very end of cooking or sprinkled over the top. granita a coarse fruit ice similar to sorbet, without the meringue, which is often flavored with liqueurs. granizado water ice granola a combination of assorted toasted grain (oats), dried fruits and nuts usually served as a breakfast cereal. some blends are sweetened with honey and/or brown sugar. granos de pimienta peppercorns grappa a strong italian brandy made from grape skin and seed. served as an after dinner drink to help digestion. grasa grease grate to shred food into fine pieces gratinado cooked au gratin. gratinar to grill grattoni small diamond shaped egg pasta that is best used in soup. similar to pastina. gravlax/gravadlax whole salmon fillets that have been cured with salt, sugar, and pepper, then flavored with dill. the salmon is then sliced paper thin and tradionally served with pumpernickel bread, sour cream, capers, onion, and lemon. gravy a sauce made from pan drippings and thickened with a roux grecque foods that are prepared in the style of greece. this is usually used for dishes with lemon, garlic, and olive oil. but the addition of tomatoes, peppers, and fennel often allows a dish to be called … la grecque. green tea an aromatic relaxing tea considered the most healthy and popular beverage among japanese people. research suggests that this tea, which is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, may help prevent cancer, high cholesterol, and other diseases. gremolata a mixture of chopped parsley, garlic, and lemon peel. this is added to stews at the end of their cooking time to add a pungency to the dish. used in some recipes for osso buco a la milanese, and hungarian goulash. grill to cook directly over a heat source on metal racks grisín bread stick grissini thin, crunchy bread sticks made from yeast dough, and enriched with olive oil and parmesan. complementary to soups, salads, and antipastos. groseille currant gruyere a moderate fat cow milk cheese with a rich, sweet, nutty flavor that is prized for both out of hand eating and cooking. it is usually aged for 10 to 12 months and has a golden brown rind and a firm, pale yellow interior with well spaced medium size holes. guacamole a fairly rich avocado based dip made with onions, lemon, lime juice, and chopped garlic. complementary dips are salsa and sour cream. guanciale meat from the cheek of the pig that is lightly rubbed with salt, freshly ground black pepper or chili peppers, then cured for three months. guarnición garnish guayaba guava guindillas long, moderately hot spanish chilis   especially popular in the basque country. picked while still green, they are most commonly sold preserved in vinegar guisado braised, fried and then cooked in liquid guisantes peas guitar las espinas to fillet (fish) gulab jamun deep fried balls of dough made from flour, milk curds, and aromatic sugary syrups. gumbo a thick soup/stew made with meat or seafood served over plain white rice. okra, filé powder, and roux. all methods are acceptable, and all are considered traditional. gundan maki the battleship roll; often used for oysters, quail eggs, ikura, and tobiko. gur dried sugarcane juice same meaning as jaggery gyoza a pan fried, sauteed, and/or steamed stuffed wonton. typically contains a pork dumpling. habas broad beans habas con jamón see recipe habichuelas green beans hacer puré mash hacher to chop finely hake merluza   a mild flavored, large flaked, white fleshed fish very popular with spanish cooks. cod or another large flaked white fish can be used as a substitute in recipes. halva a congealed, translucent, small, squared shaped, bright indian sweet made from finely grated vegetables, fruits, syrups, milk, and sugar. this sweet, flavored with cardamom, has a thick pudding consistency. the most popular types are carrot, pistachio, and mango. hamachi young yellowtail tuna often served broiled. hamaguri clam hamo a pike conger sea eel hanakatsuo dried bonito fish that is usually shaved or flaked. hard taco a large, crisp corn tortilla shell that usually contains minced beef, shredded lettuce, and grated cheese. commonly topped with salsa, sour cream, or guacamole. haricot blanc bean (white) haricot vert green bean harina flour harina de maíz corn flour harissa a spice mixture used as both a condiment and a seasoning. harissa contains chiles which are ground with cumin, garlic, coriander, and olive oil. it becomes a thick paste that is used as is in cooking or diluted with oil or stock to be used as a condiment. harusame thin, transparent bean gelatin noodles hashi chopsticks hatahata sandfish helado ice cream herbal tea tea flavored with herbs, such as mint or rosemary, to enhance the flavor. herboristeria shop specializing in herbs, natural remedies, etc. hervir boil hichimi togarashi mixed hot spices for table use. the flavors consist of red pepper (togarashi), ground sansho pepper pods, dried mandarin orange peel, black hemp seeds or white poppy seeds, nori seaweed bits, and white sesame seeds. hierba herb hierba doncella myrtle, periwinkle hierbabuena mint hierbaluisa lemon verbena higado liver higo fig higo chumbo prickly pear hijiki black seaweed in tiny threads. hikari mono a comprehensive term for “shiny” silver skinned fish, such as mackerel. himo the fringe around the inside of an ark shell hinojo fennel hirame fluke, flounder, or halibut hocho the general japanese term for knives. hoisin sauce a rich, dark, sweet barbecue sauce used in chinese cooking for marinades and basting. hoisin sauce is easily recognizable in mu shu pork and peking duck. the sauce is made from soybean flour, chiles, red beans, and many other spices. hoja leaf hoja de laurel bay leaf hoja del cuchillo blade of a knife hojaldre puff pastry hojas leaves hokkigai a thorn shaped red sided surf clam. holiday roll a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around cranberry salsa, turkey strips, and cream cheese strips. hollandaise sauce this is the most basic of the egg and oil emulsified sauces. the only flavoring is fresh lemon juice. this sauce must be kept warm, as excessive heat will cause it to break. because this is kept warm, it is not safe to keep it for long periods of time and should never be reused from another meal period. homard lobster hominy corn kernels with the germ and bran removed hongos mushrooms horchata made from ground chufa nuts ( tiger nuts), it is a sweet cool milky drink originating in valencia. horn of plenty mushroom this is a wild mushroom with a hollow, funnel shaped cap and is dark gray or black in color. because of this, it also has the name etrumpet of deathe. this mushroom is somewhat stringy, but has a robust flavor and may be used to flavor sauces, soups, or any other mushroom preparation. horno oven horreo a granite drying shed for corn, found in galicia and asturias hors d’oeuvres small portions of foods, canapã©s; appetizers hot bean sauce a combination of hot chili sauce and brown bean sauce used in spicy szechuan and hunan dishes. hot mustard a spicy condiment served with chinese appetizers. made by mixing dry mustard powder with water, causing a chemical reaction. hotatagai scallops huachinango red snapper hueco hole huerto/huerta vegetable patch, especially a vegetable producing garden close to the city hueso/espina bone hueva cured and pressed fish roe, normally tuna or grey mullet huevo egg huevo duro hard boiled egg huevos eggs huevos estrellados fried egg and potato hash huitre oyster hull to remove the leafy parts of fruits hyssop any of various herbs belonging to the mint family with aromatic, dark green leaves that have a slightly bitter, minty flavor. hyssop adds intrigue to salads, fruit dishes, soups and stews. it is also used to flavor certain liqueurs such as chartreuse. iago a small british pastry or petit four. ibérico a strain of black hoofed pig, cerdo ibérico, that dates back to pre history ibrik a small, long handled turkish pot with a bulbous bottom, narrow waist and flared top handled turkish pot with a bulbous bottom, narrow waist and flared top. icefish see rainbow smelt. icelandic lobester see norway lobster. idiaxabal, queso de a smoked sheep’s milk cheese from the basque country and bought in small balls. there are two types idli light, spongy, steamed dumplings made from a fermented batter of rice and daal. generally served with sambar and chutney. ika squid; the body is usually served raw and the tentacles are usually toasted on a bed of rice. ikura large, orange, salty, salmon roe. also means “how much?” in japanese. inada very young yellowtail inari a simple dish consisting of aburage bags stuffed with vinegar rice. inari sushi a simple dish consisting of aburage bags stuffed with vinegar rice. inari udon soup fried soybean curd with noodle soup inari zushi a simple dish consisting of aburage bags stuffed with vinegar rice. inarizushi a simple dish consisting of aburage bags stuffed with vinegar rice. infusion an infusion is the flavor that is extracted from any ingredient such as tea leaves, herbs or fruit by steeping them in a liquid such as water, oil or vinegar. insalata an italian salad insulated baking sheet a cookie sheet with a space between its double layers to prevent hot spots involtini thin slices of meat or fish which are stuffed and rolled. they may then be sauteed, grilled, or baked. jabalí wild boar jaggery dried sugarcane juice, same meaning as gur jalebi orange, sweet crisp round whirls made from plain flour and water. jalebi, a favorite indian dessert, is deep fried and dipped in sugary syrup. jambalaya a creole version of paella, though more highly spiced. the only consistent ingredients among all of the jambalaya recipes are rice, tomatoes, peppers, and onions. ingredients used for jambalaya are ham, oysters, chicken, andouille sausage, duck, shrimp, and game birds. jambon ham jamon ham jamon de york mild,cured and cooked ham. jamon iberico cured ham from the cerdo ibérico   black hoofed (pata negra) pigs. jamon iberico de bellota dry cured ham from free range black hoofed cerdo ibérico pigs, who, prior to being sacrificed, are finished with an unlimited diet of acorns from holm oak and cork trees growing in the dehesa forest / meadows. jamon serrano dry cured mountain ham, similar to prosciutto, but has significantly less salt and fat. a staple of the spanish diet. japanese plum wine a popular, sweet, alcoholic drink made from plums. jardiniere a fresh mix of vegetables cut into julienne jarra graduada measuring cup jaune d’oeuf egg yolk jell a solidifying process usually using gelatin jerez sherry jerusalem artichoke a tuber, also called sunchoke, with a very firm flesh and a flavor reminiscent of globe artichokes. these are used as a vegetable, in soups, or cooked and served in salads. ji a prefix usually meaning “locally made or caught” jicama a large bulbous root vegetable with a thin brown skin and white crunchy flesh. its sweet, nutty flavor is good both raw and cooked. it is a fair source for vitamin c and potassium. judias white beans, similar to limas jugo de naranja orange juice jugo/zumo juice jugoso juicy julienne foods that are cut in long, thin strips. the term is usually associated with vegetables, but may be applied to cooked meat or fish. jurel de castilla yellowtail jus a rich, lightly reduced stock used as a sauce for roasted meats, made from the juice of the meat itself. obtained by deglazing the pan after cooking, and usually reduced to achieve the rich flavor desired. jus lie is jus that has been slightly thickened with cornstarch or flour. sometimes called “au jus,” although the term means “with juice.” kachori deep fried pastry patties made from white flour, ghee, and water. typically stuffed with spiced mashed vegetables. kachumber an indian salad prepared with cucumbers, tomatoes, and onions. seasoned with salt, sugar, and lemon juice. kaibashira large scallops; the shellfish valve muscles kaiware a daikon radish sprout roll kajiki swordfish kaki oysters kakomi sushi the battleship roll; often used for oysters, quail eggs, ikura, and tobiko. kalakukko a finnish dish of bread filled with fish. kale a ruffled leafed green vegetable that is a member of the cabbage family. kalvan curry kamaboko fish cake made from pounded whitefish that is mixed with cornstarch, formed into a sausage shape, and cooked. commonly used in california rolls. kampyo dried gourd prepared as long, translucent brown fettuccine shaped strips. kani cooked crab meat kanpachi very young yellowtail kanpyo dried gourd prepared as long, translucent brown fettuccine shaped strips. kanpyo maki pickled gourd rolls kappa maki cucumber filled sushi rolls kappa sushi cucumber filled sushi rolls kappa zushi cucumber filled sushi rolls karanji pastries made from whole wheat flour. filled with freshly grated coconut and sugar. karei sole, flounder, or flatfish katsu a cutlet; katsu refers to fried foods coated with bread crumbs, as opposed to tempura, which is fried foods coated with batter. katsu don deep fried pork cutlet with cooked vegetables and egg served over a bed of rice. katsuo bonito; also known as skipjack tuna. kazunoko herring roe usually marinated in sake, broth, and soy sauce. sometimes served raw. kebab marinated and spiced small pieces of poultry, fish, ground meat, or vegetables, skewered and grilled over a fire. kebabs may also be shallow fried or grilled. also spelled “kabob.” kedgeree a british variation of an indian dish with rice, smoked fish, hard cooked eggs, and bechamel sauce flavored with curry. finnan haddie is most often used, but smoked sturgeon or salmon are excellent substitutes. kefir a fermented milk drink similar to a lassi, flavored with salt or spices. where available, kefir is made with camel milk. ketchup a term derived from asian cookery, this sauce is known to be a sweet sauce made from tomatoes. other forms of ketchup are made from walnuts, mushrooms, and grapes. khasta roti a firmer variation of chapatti bread kheema ground meat, raw or cooked. kheer a rice pudding, served either hot or cold, made from rice, milk, sugar, and cardamom. sometimes topped with nuts. khichadi mildly spiced rice and daal. khoya an indian cooking term that refers to the process of boiling milk and stirring continuously over a low flame. reduces and thickens the food to a soft cream cheese consistency. this method of cooking is used widely in desserts and sweet meats. kinome leaves of the japanese prickly ash (sanshoo) used to flavor soups and simmered foods. kirsch a clear brandy distilled from cherry juice and pits. in cookery, it is most prominently known as a flavorful addition to fondue and cherries jubilee. kiwi a fresh, egg sized berry with a brown, furry skin and green flesh. its flavor resembles berries and melons. knead to press and fold dough in order to give it a smoother consistency needed for leavening kobashiri small scallops similar to kaibashira kofta alls, dumplings, or rolls made from spiced meat or vegetables. kohada japanese shad, gizzard shad, or young punctatus koi saltwater carp kokotxa gelatinous “cheeks” of hake, cod, (basque) kombu kelp, or a large type of seaweed, which may be dried and prepared in a sheet form. also used as a soup stock or in nabe (hot pot) dishes. kombu(konbu) a large edible seaweed used in japanese cooking. konbu kelp, or a large type of seaweed, which may be dried and prepared in a sheet form. also used as a soup stock or in nabe (hot pot) dishes. korma a rich curry sauce thickened with yogurt, nuts, or poppy seeds. kosher salt very coarse salt kugelhopf a yeast cake from alsace baked in a large crown like earthenware dish. it is similar to brioche, though less rich, and flavored with currants or golden raisins and almonds. this is mainly eaten for breakfast. kulcha flatbread often stuffed with onion or potatoes and seasoned with cilantro. kulfi sweet aromatic ice cream made from cream, milk, sugar, mango, pistachios, and saffron. the most popular are the mango kulfi, pista kulfi and the malai kulfi. kumquat a round, small, asian citrus fruit with a soft bright orange rind and slightly tart orange flesh. these are used in pastry making, preserves, and chutneys. kuro goma black sesame seeds kurodai snapper kuruma ebi prawn kuscus sweet semolina and pistachio cake lado side laitue lettuce lampuga dolphin langosta lobster langostino a small 1 inch shellfish that has a strong shrimp flavor. langouste the french name for the spiny lobster, differentiating from maine lobsters in that they have no claws. langoustes are warm water crustaceans that can be found in the south atlantic ocean, the mediterranean sea, and off the coasts of south america, australia and the west indies. langoustine the french name for dublin prawn. these are small pink crustaceans resembling crayfish, with a taste and texture closest to lobster. their claws are quite long but have no edible meat in them. like the langouste, these are found in warm waters. langue tongue lapin rabbit lard bacon or salt pork larder a cool area for storing food. larding a technique by which thin strips of back fat, or vegetables, are inserted into a piece of meat. these strips help the meat to remain juicy during cooking. larding with vegetables gives the meat a contrast of color plus the addition of flavor. this practice is not used as often now because of the higher quality of meat available to us. lardons pieces of pork fat used as flavoring. lasagna wide, flat ribbon shaped pasta sheets. normally precooked and then baked in the oven between layers of sauce and ricotta cheese. lassi a frothy yogurt drink, sweet or salty, flavored with pistachios, cardamom, cumin, or rose water. lata tin, can latifundio large country estate latte fritto fried custard dessert latticini fresh cheeses; milk products laurel bayleaf laurier bay leaf lavar wash leaven yeast: also the process of whipping egg whites that produces air bubbles and causes the rising of baked items leche milk leche cuajada junket lechoso milky lechuga lettuce lefse a thin, flat potato pancake, about the consistency of a tortilla and cooked by similar method. very mild, starchy, slightly sweet taste. lefse is enhanced by the addition of peanut butter, brown sugar, or lutefisk. legumbres vegetables lemon grass resembling spring onion, this subtropical root imparts a delicious fresh lemon flavor to southeastern asian dishes. lengua tongue lenguado flounder or sole lentamente gradually lentejas lentils lentils flat, disk shaped dried beans that have a rich, somewhat sweet and peppery flavor when cooked. brown lentils, the most popular variety and high in protein, are used in a wide number of food dishes, such as soups and stews. levadura baking powder liaison the process of thickening a sauce, soup, or stew. this includes all rouxs, starch and water mixtures (slurries), beurre manié, and egg yolks with or without cream. egg yolks must be tempered with hot liquid before adding to the liquid in order to prevent curdling. lie slightly thickened liebre hare lier to thicken (usually with egg yolk) ligado thickened, bound with cream, egg yolk, or butter light olive oil although light olive oil is paler in color and less flavorful than virgin or regular olive oil, it is still 100 percent pure olive oil. it is used in salads and marinades when a rich, distinctive oil flavor is not desired. lima lemon limón lime limousin beef a breed of cattle which is naturally lower in fat and cholestrol. these cattle were brought to the united states from france around 1930. limpiar con agua rinse limpiar con un paño wipe linguine thin, spaghetti like pasta that has been flattened into an oval or ribbon shape. linzertorte an austrian pastry comprised of a short crust dough flavored with ground almonds and hazelnuts, cinnamon, and lemon zest. this is then spread with raspberry jam and topped with a cross hatch of dough. almond paste is sometimes layered underneath the raspberry jam. other versions of this use fresh cranberries or apricots in the filling. lo mein in this dish, boiled and drained noodles are added to other ingredients, such as vegetables and/or meat, and briefly stir fried during the final stages of cooking. consequently, these noodles have more flavor than chow mein, where the meat and vegetables are served over noodles that have been cooked separately. lobster mushroom a wild mushroom that has a firm texture and a red and orange color like lobster shells. lomo poin, usually pork lomo embuchado pork loin marinated in vinegar, pimentón and other spices london broil commonly used to refer to boneless cuts, such as flank steak, beef top round steak, and the shoulder steak. it is marinated and then broiled or grilled. longaniza a thin sausage from cataluña lotus a water lily whose root can be stuffed with glutinous rice, steamed as a dessert, or sliced as a sweet fruit. chinese chefs commonly wrap its leaves around food to impart a pleasant tea like flavor. finally, its seeds are can be used in sweet syrups, pastes, soups, rice desserts, and snacks. luchi a bengali form of the puffed deep fried bread puri. made with maida, or white flour. lychee a plum sized fruit that has a thin, hard, removable, rough shell. its white, juicy flesh surrounds a large dark brown stone. lyonnaise sauce a classic french sauce preparation made with sauteed onions, white wine and demi glace. the sauce is strained before being served with meats and sometime poultry. lyonnaise, à la a french term for “in the manner of lyons” dishes include onions which have been cooked golden brown and seasoned with wine, garlic, and parsley. macaire a potato pancake made with seasoned potato puree. macaroni hollow, short pasta shapes. there are many versions varying in size and length. macaroon a small round cookie that has a crisp crust and a soft interior. many versions bought commercially have been thoroughly dried. these cookies may be made from almonds, though coconut is common in the us. the may also be flavored with coffee, chocolate, or spices. amaretti, from italy, are a type of macaroon. macedoine a mixture of fruit or vegetables. vegetable macedoine are cut into small dice and used as a garnish to meats. fruit macedoine are cut in larger pieces and often marinated in sugar syrup with liqueur. macerate soaking fruit or vegetables in wine, liquor, or syrup so that they may absorb these flavors. salt and sugar macerations are used to draw excess moisture out of the food for a secondary preparation. this is done for canning, jam and preserve making, and to remove bitter flavors from vegetables. machacar grind mache a wild lettuce with small round leaves that may be used for salads or cooked and used as you would spinach. the taste is a little less pronounced than spinach. mache grows wild, and can be found in the fall. it is cultivated in france, italy, and the us from september to april. madeleine a small shell shaped cookie or cake made from a rich batter similar to g‚noise. these may be flavored with almonds, lemon, or cinnamon. maduro ripe magdalena sweet breakfast cupcake magret the breast meat from a mallard or barbary duck. these ducks are specially raised for foie gras. their breasts are large and have a much thinner layer of fat than do the peking or long island duckling. magro lean (meat) maguro tuna. unlike toro, which is the tuna belly (the fatty part), maguro is the leaner flesh from the sides of the fish. maguro temaki tuna temaki mahi mahi warm water, flavorful fish with a medium textured dark flesh that browns when cooked. maida unbleached white flour maigre lean mais maize, sweet corn maitre d’hotel restaurant manager maitre d’hotel butter this is the most common of all the compound butters. it is flavored with lemon and chopped parsley and used to garnish fish and grilled meats. garlic may be added, but it would then be called escargot butter. maiz corn off the cob maíz tierno sweet corn majado a mixture of spices, herbs, often added in the final stages of cooking, prepared in a mortar and pestle makajiki blue marlin or swordfish maki a japanese dish of sushi rice and raw vegetables wrapped in a seaweed sheet. while most maki rolls have the nori sheets wrapped around the outside, some sushi rolls (such as california and rainbow rolls), place the rice on the outside. maki sushi a japanese dish of sushi rice and raw vegetables wrapped in a seaweed sheet. while most maki rolls have the nori sheets wrapped around the outside, some sushi rolls (such as california and rainbow rolls), place the rice on the outside. maki zushi a japanese dish of sushi rice and raw vegetables wrapped in a seaweed sheet. while most maki rolls have the nori sheets wrapped around the outside, some sushi rolls (such as california and rainbow rolls), place the rice on the outside. manchego of the high mountain plane of la mancha, sheep’s cheese from that reagion: queso manchego mango an oval, tropical fruit that has a very juicy, sweet flavored, orange flesh. manicotti large, tubular pasta that may have a ridged or smooth surface, and straight or diagonal ends. generally filled with ricotta cheese and spinach, then baked. similar to cannelloni. manteca lard mantecado christmas sweet made of almonds and lard. the most crumbly version is called polvoron mantecato literally “whipped”; ice cream mantequilla butter manzana apple manzanilla a dry, light,crisp wine, similar to fino sherry, produced exclusively in sanlucar de barrameda; or chamomile for tea; or variety of table olive maquereau mackerel mar y montaña “sea and mountain,” any dish combining seafood and meat: “surf & turf” marble to swirl or layer one food item into another to create a ribbon effect when cooked and sliced marengo a chicken stew made with wine, tomatoes, and garlic. the stew is served over toast, garnished with crayfish and fried eggs. the modern versions of this omit the eggs and substitute shrimp for the crayfish. of course, other liberties have been taken with this recipe to include black olives, peppers, and veal. the dish is rumored to have been named for the dish served to general bonaparte after his army s defeat of the austrians in the battle of marengo. margherita pizza an italian flatbread pizza made of buffalo mozzarella cheese, red tomatoes, and green basil. traditionally cooked in a wood burning oven. marinade a liquid sauce that is used to soften and flavor meats before cooking. marinades can contain vinegar, oil, lemon, wine, beer, or herbs and spices. marinar to marinate. marinara a traditional italian vegetable sauce made with tomatoes, onions, olive oil, and garlic. marinate to soak in marinade (see above). marinera general term for seafood cookery, as in cocina marinera marisco shellfish marmitako tuna and potato casserole from the basque country marmite stockpot marron chestnut marsala a sweet italian dessert wine. marzipan an almond paste with the addition of egg whites. this mixture is kneaded into a smooth paste and used to wrap or layer cakes and candies. marzipan is also shaped into figures of animals, fruits, and vegetables, and sold in pastry or candy shops. masa dough masago grilled capelin roe often served as an appetizer. masala the hindi word for “spices”; a refined blend of spices, herbs, and other seasonings that flavor the indian cuisine. mascarpone a rich delicately flavored triple cream cheese. its unique sweetness makes it ideal for desserts. mascarpone is an essential ingredient of tiramisu and can be churned into a rich velvety ice cream. matafan a thick pancake eaten sweet as a snack, or savory as an accompaniment to cheese. they are also made with bacon, spinach, and potatoes. matanza traditional sacrificing and processing of a pig matar peas matar paneer curried peas with cubes of fried homemade cheese. matelote a french fish stew made with wine. the alsatian version of this dish is made with freshwater fish, riesling wine, and thickened with cream and egg yolks. the normandy version includes seafood and is flavored with cider and calvados. these stews are normally embellished with pearl onions and mushrooms. mawa an indian cooking term that refers to the process of boiling milk and stirring continuously over a low flame. reduces and thickens the food to a soft cream cheese consistency. this method of cooking is used widely in desserts and sweet meats. mayonesa mayonnaise mazapan a christmas sweet made solely of ground almonds and honey. medaillons round pieces of meat medallion a small piece of meat (beef, chicken, pork, veal) lightly pounded into an oval or a round meji tuna. unlike toro, which is the tuna belly (the fatty part), maguro is the leaner flesh from the sides of the fish. mejillon mussel mekajiki blue marlin or swordfish melanger to mix two or more ingredient melaza molasses melba the name of a popular dessert invented by auguste escoffier. poached peach halves are served with vanilla ice cream and topped with fresh raspberry sauce. melocotón peach melón melon membrillo quince menestra vegetable medley made mostly in the spring, originally from navarra. it may also contain lamb or chicken. menta mint menthe mint menu de gustacion tasting menu menudo a soup similar to pozole with the addition of tripe and meat broth. this, too, is served with assorted condiments for the diners to choose from. merendero picnic site, snack bar merienda afternoon snack meringue whipped egg whites to which sugar has been added to form a stiff paste. these are used to lighten mousses, cakes, and pastry creams. unsweetened versions are used to lighten forcemeats. meringue is also baked in a very low oven, forming crisp shells which are filled with fruit or ice cream. small dried meringue shells are called vacherin. merluche hake merluza hake, served lightly fried in andalucía, or with salsa verde (parsley and olive oil) in the north mesclun this is a mix of very young lettuces and greens. often this mix is stretched with herb or flower sprigs and bitter greens. these greens should be dressed very lightly, with only best oil and vinegar, so that their flavor will not be masked. meshimono rice mixed with meat or vegetables meuniere a method of cooking in which the meat of fish is dredged in flour and shallow fried in butter & served with sauce meuniere mezclar mix mezzani long, tubular pasta mi nei salad fresh green salad with house dressing michirones a recipe from murcia made from dried broad beans. miel honey miel de cana sugar cane syrup migas fried bread crumbs with garlic, chopped panceta, tocino, red pepper. mignonette this is a term used to describe coarsely ground pepper used for au poivre preparations and in bouquet garni. this is also used to describe small round pieces of meat or poultry. milanese this is used to describe foods that are dipped in egg and bread crumbs, sometimes parmesan cheese, and fried in butter. mille feuille small rectangular pastries made of crisp layers of puff pastry and pastry cream. this may also include savory fillings of similar presentation. the word mille feuille means a thousand leaves. mince to chop into very fine pieces mincemeat a sweet spicy mixture of candied and fresh fruits, wine, spices, and beef fat. earlier recipes for this used beef or venison meat and beef fat. it is used primarily as a filling for pies served during the christmas holiday season. minestrone an italian vegetable soup with beans and pasta or rice. this may contain any number of vegetables, but for authenticity, meat is never added. mirepoix a mixture of chopped onion, carrot, and celery used to flavor stocks and soups. ham or bacon are sometimes added to a mirepoix, depending on the specific preparation. mirin a non alcoholic version of sake (rice wine). it is sweet and syrupy. mirugai a long neck, slightly crunchy sweet clam mise en place ‘everything in its place.” a term used in professional kitchens to describe the proper planning procedure for a specific station. miso a salty paste made from fermented soy beans. this is used in japanese cooking for sauces and soups. mixed herbs a collection of commer­cially available dried herbs. mochi steamed rice pounded into a sweet glutinous cake. used as a staple ingredient in a variety of japanese dishes, including desserts. mochigome steamed rice pounded into a sweet glutinous cake. used as a staple ingredient in a variety of japanese dishes, including desserts. modak cone shaped dumplings made from rice flour. filled with a cooked mixture of freshly grated coconut and sugar. mojama dry cured salted fish, usually tuna. mojo sauce from the canary islands,such as mojo picón (spicy), mojo verde with coriander. molasses this is a syrup resulting from the crystallization of raw sugar from the sap. additional processing results in darker and stronger tasting molasses called black strap. mole an assortment of thick sauces used in mexican cooking made of chiles. these sauces are made with one or many chiles, and flavored with cumin, coriander, cinnamon, nuts, seeds, and chocolate. their flavor is rich, smoky, and very complex. some recipes are made with fresh herbs and have a green color. chicken, turkey, and pork are then simmered in this sauce. molido ground mollejas sweetbreads mollet soft boiled egg mollete a spanish bread roll. mona an easter speciality of catalonia  authentixcally is a rich brioche mongetes popular catalán dish of white beans and grilled sausage. monosodium glutamate sometimes called msg. a sodium salt found in wheat, beets, and soy bean products. it is used extensively in chinese cookery, and thought to help accentuate the flavors of certain foods. many people suffer serious allergic reactions to this, so widespread use has been reduced to the commercial food processing industry. monter the beating of cream, egg whites, etc monter au beurre “to mount with butter” to thicken sauces with pieces of cold, whole butter mora blackberry morcilla a spanish blood sausage often used in stews and sliced and fried as an accompaniment to eggs or as an appetizer. often combined with rice or onion. morcón blood sausage morel mushroom this is a wild mushroom with a honeycomb cap and hollow stem. these are very dirty mushrooms and must be cleaned carefully. morels possess a wonderful earthy flavor, making them good candidates for soups, sauces, and fillings. mornay sauce a bechamel sauce with gruyere cheese, sometimes enriched with egg yolks. it is used mainly for fish and vegetable preparations. morros snout, “face” meat, usually of pork or beef. mortadella large,lightly smoked sausages made of pork, beef, or veal. these are specialties of bologna, which is where the us version of this sausage gets its name. mortadella is a very smooth, pink sausage with a subtle creamy texture. they are studded with cubes of pork fat and peppercorns. mortero mortar, usually used for crushing spices, garlic, or herbs mostarda di cremona these are fruits cooked and marinated in a spicy, mustard flavored syrup. it is a classic accompaniment to bollito misto. these fruits are also used in sauces for veal, and assorted stuffed pasta fillings. mostaza mustard moti roti a risen flatbread made from unbleached white flour, yogurt, and water dough. this bread is baked on a tawa. mount the addition of small pieces of cold butter to a sauce as a finishing process moussaka a layered dish of eggplant and lamb with tomatoes and onions. this is all bound with bechamel sauce and cooked au gratin. mousse sweet or savory dishes made of ingredients which are blended and folded together. these mixtures may be hot or cold, and generally contain whipped egg whites to lighten them. cream is also used to lighten these dishes, though when used in large quantities, these preparations are called mousselines. mousseline as stated above, these are fine purees or forcemeats that have been lightened with whipped cream. the term is also used to describe a hollandaise sauce which has unsweetened whipped cream folded into it. mousseron mushroom a wild mushroom with an off white to beige color. the flavor is full bodied and the texture is fleshy like bolets. mouton mutton moyashi bean sprouts mozzarella fresh, soft, white, mild italian cheese that has a creamy texture, and is widely used in pizzas, lasagnas, and toasted sandwiches. msg a chemical food enhancer, extracted from seaweed and other vegetable matter, used to deepen and develop the natural flavors of foods. mulet mullet mull heating wine, cider, or juices with spices, citrus and sugar mulligatawny a curried chicken soup adapted by the british from india. originally the soup was enriched with coconut milk and embellished with almonds and apples. newer versions make a lighter broth and flavor this with curry and coconut. mung bean noodles these thin, translucent, flavorless threads of noodle, made from green gram flour, provide texture to the base of soup and stir fried dishes. mung beans small green beans frequently used when sprouted. mung bean sprouts are one of the key ingredients in chop suey. dried mung beans are ground into flour, which can be used to make mung bean noodles. murasaki the japanese sushi bar term that refers to soy sauce. mure blackberry murgh chicken murgh masala curried chicken mushimono a japanese term that describes steamed foods. muslo de pollo chicken drumstick naan an indian leavened flatbread made from unbleached white flour, yogurt, and water. baked in a tandoor, this appetizer cleanses the palette and complements the piquancy of a dish. many variations of this popular bread exist. nabeyakiudon noodle soup with tempura shrimp, chicken, and vegetables. nachos corn tortilla chips covered with melted cheese. nage an aromatic broth in which crustaceans are cooked. the shellfish is then served with this broth. the most notable of these dishes is lobster la nage. nama a prefix usually meaning “raw”. nama tako fresh or raw octopus nanami togarashi mixed hot spices for table use. the flavors consist of red pepper (togarashi), ground sansho pepper pods, dried mandarin orange peel, black hemp seeds or white poppy seeds, nori seaweed bits, and white sesame seeds. nantua a name given to dishes containing crayfish. this includes crayfish tails and sauces made with a crayfish fumet. nap to cover a food item with a thin, even layer of sauce napoletana neapolitan style; typically implies the use of rich tomato sauce. napper to coat with sauce naranja orange nasu eggplant nata cream nata agria sour cream nata montada whipped cream natto fermented soy beans that have a strong smell and taste. navarin french stew made with mutton or lamb and onions, turnips, potatoes, and herbs. navet turnip neapolitan salami a very spicy italian dry sausage made from pork meat. seasoned with pepper, chili flakes, garlic, and wine. this luncheon meat is ideal for spicy snacks, appetizers, and pasta dishes. necci crepes or waffles made from chestnut flour and often stuffed with ricotta cheese. nectarina nectarine negi a green japanese onion that resembles a thin leek. negi toro chopped and mixed negi onion and toro. negitoro maki scallion and tuna roll neta the sushi bar term that refers to the fish topping in nigiri sushi. new york roll a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around sliced apple, sliced avocado, and smoked salmon. ni ika squid simmered in a soy flavored stock nicoise foods cooked in the style of nice. these dishes may include garlic, nicoise olives, anchovies, tomatoes, and green beans. salad nicoise is the most famous of all these dishes, consisting of potatoes, olives, green beans, and vinaigrette dressing. nigiri small rice balls usually topped with fish and wasabi. although there are several varieties of nigirizushi, the most common include tuna, shrimp, shellfish, eel, squid, and octopus. nigiri sushi small rice balls usually topped with fish and wasabi. although there are several varieties of nigirizushi, the most common include tuna, shrimp, shellfish, eel, squid, and octopus. nigiri zushi small rice balls usually topped with fish and wasabi. although there are several varieties of nigirizushi, the most common include tuna, shrimp, shellfish, eel, squid, and octopus. nihon shu a japanese wine, sauce, or marinade, made from fermented rice. nimono the sushi bar term that refers to simmered or boiled foods. niscalo catalán wild mushroom no engordante non fattening noisette a round piece of meat of veal or lamb tenderloin.(b)small potato balls noisette butter whole butter which has been cooked until it reaches a rich, nutty brown color and aroma. nopales “young” leaves of the prickly pear cactus noques flour dumplings noras round dried pepper, mildly spicy, used in the cuisine of eastern spain and a key ingredient in romesco sauce. it lends an earthy taste to foods, are used in several rice dishes including bacalao a la vizcaino. noras are difficult to get, other than on the internet the hot red peppers found in grocery stores in the latin american section are significantly different and cannot serve as a valid substitute. nori thin sheets of dried seaweed used in the japanese cuisine to wrap maki (japanese sushi rolls) and/or garnish dishes. nori maki sushi rice and seafood rolled in dried seaweed sheets. nori seaweed thin dry sheets of seaweed used in japanese cooking. it is mainly used to wrap sushi and as garnish for other cold presentations. nori tama sweetened egg wrapped in dried seaweed norimaki sushi rice and seafood rolled in dried seaweed sheets. nougat a candy made from sugar and honey mixed with nuts. this mixture is then formed into slabs and sliced. nougatine a darker candy, made of caramel syrup and nuts. this is rolled into thin sheets and formed into cups or bowls to serve as a vessel for other candy or fruit. nouilles noodles nueces walnuts nuez de castilla walnuts nuez de mantequilla dollup of butter nuez moscada nutmeg nuoc mam this is a vietnamese fish sauce made with fermented fish or shrimp. another name for this is nam pla. nutella a commercial brand of gianduja. this is a creamy paste of chocolate and hazelnuts treasured in italy. this is used in candy making, for flavored milk drinks, and when thinned out, spread on bread as a quick snack. ocha tea odori ebi live, “dancing” shrimp; living ama ebi. oeuf the french word for egg. oeuf a la neige sweet meringue puffs that are poached in milk and chilled. when served, these puffs are drizzled with caramel and served with creme anglaise. offal the internal organs of an animal (usually beef, pork, or sheep). ohyo halibut oie goose oignon onion okonomi sushi small rice balls usually topped with fish and wasabi. although there are several varieties of nigirizushi, the most common include tuna, shrimp, shellfish, eel, squid, and octopus. okonomi zushi small rice balls usually topped with fish and wasabi. although there are several varieties of nigirizushi, the most common include tuna, shrimp, shellfish, eel, squid, and octopus. okonomiyaki a thick pancake usually served with meat or seafood. olive oil olive oil has a very distinctive flavor, and has become more prominent in american cooking today. gradings of olive oils are determined by the methods of extraction and the acid content of the resulting oil. virgin oils are those obtained from the first pressing of the olive without further refinement. the finest olive oil is extra virgin, with an acid content of 1%. following this are superfine at 1.5%, fine at 3%, and virgin at 4%. pure olive oils are those which have been extracted by heat. these are of 100% olive oil, but their flavor can result in a harsh, bitter aftertaste. pomace olive oil is refined from the final pressings and under heat and pressure. the taste is inferior to other olive oils and should never be substituted for them. olive oil becomes rancid very easily, more so when exposed to heat or light. always store tightly sealed in a cool, dark place. olives this is the edible fruit of the olive tree. found in both green(unripe) and black(ripe) forms, each must undergo a process to remove the bitterness found in them. this curing process is done with brine solutions, salt curing, and drying. olla podrida a substantial cocido stew typical of burgos onigiri a sticky rice ball often wrapped in nori seaweed and filled with fish or pickled plum. opakapaka pink snapper. a local hawaiian favorite, especially around the holidays. oregano a robust, slightly bitter, and peppery herb that is often a key ingredient in tomato based italian pasta sauces. organic grown or raised without chemicals or artificial growth enhancers, without chemical fertilizers or chemical pesticides. orzo small rice shaped pasta. oseille french term for sorrel. oshi sushi rice sushi topped with fish. made by pressing the rice with a box or mold. oshi zushi rice sushi topped with fish. made by pressing the rice with a box or mold. oshibori the wet towel that cleans one’s hands before the meal. oshinko the general japanese term usually referring to mixed pickles, mixed vegetables, daikon rolls, or cucumbers. osso buco an italian dish comprised of crosscut slices of the veal shank braised with vegetables, aromatics, and stock. milanese style is served with saffron risotto and gremolata. ostiones oysters otoro maki fatty tuna roll made from the lower belly ouzo a clear anise flavored liqueur from greece. it is generally mixed with water which turns it whitish and opaque. oven bake to cook foods surrounded by hot dry air oven broil to cook with radiant heat from above oven poach to cook in the oven with a small amount of water or another liquid oyako don cooked chicken, egg, and vegetables over rice oyster mushroom a wild mushroom that grows in clusters on the side of trees. it is off white to greyish in color and has a soft texture. these mushrooms have a very subtle flavor. they are also being cultivated in the us, making them readily available in markets and moderately priced. oyster mushrooms a fan shaped mushroom that has white flesh and a grayish brown exterior. this moist, peppery, and robust fungus is often served raw in salads. oyster mushrooms, which have a softened flavor when cooked, are also a pleasant addition to casseroles, soups, or stir fried dishes. oyster sauce a dark brown delicate sauce made from oysters and soy sauce. this staple condiment adds richness to dishes without diminishing their natural flavors. pa amb tomaquet catalan tapa: bread or toast rubbed with olive oil and fresh crushed tomato paan a thick, smooth, dark green leaf. in the indian cuisine, this leaf is wrapped around fragrant spices, fennel seeds, slaked lime paste, tobacco leaves, colored shreds of coconut, and fine shreds of betel nut. paan, which acts as a breath freshener, digestive, antacid, and carminative, is eaten after a meal. it is garnished with varak. paella a spanish rice dish originating in the town of valencia. there are hundreds of recipes for paella, all claiming to be authentic. the only ingredients that are necessary for paella are rice, tomatoes, and saffron. other ingredients are chicken, chorizo, mussels, squid, peppers, and beans. more elaborate preparations include shrimp, lobster, and duck. paillard a piece of meat or fish that has been pounded very thinly and grilled or sauteed. pailles straw (straw potatoes) pakoras a, popular, sizzling, indian crispy and spicy snack served with coriander chutney. slices of potatoes, onion, chilies, spinach leaves, and eggplant are dipped in a batter, made from chickpea flour and dried spices, and then deep fried. usually served with chai. paleta flavored ice on a stick palitos de queso cheese straws palmier a cookie made of sheets of puff pastry that are rolled in sugar and folded to resemble palm leaves. these cookies are baked until the sugar becomes caramelized. pan bread pan ázimo unleavened bread pan broil cooking food in a heavy pan without added fat and removing any fat that is produced as you cook the item pan de molde sliced bread pan dulce sweet bread pan duro stale bread pan fry to cook in a moderate amount of fat, uncovered pan integral whole wheat bread pan bagnat a sandwich from southern france, consisting of small round loaves of bread which have been hollowed out and filled with onions, anchovies, black olives, and tuna, then drenched in extra virgin olive oil. panada a thick paste used as a binding agent for forcemeats. flour panadas are made in a style similar to choux paste. other types use bread crumbs or potato puree. panade a binding agent pancarre sliced bread that is traditionally used for canapes and sandwiches. panceta cured pork belly pancetta cured pork belly that is rolled and tied. unlike american bacon, this is not smoked. pancotto literally “cooked bread”; this soup usually contains bread, olive oil, and cheese paneer a type of fresh, unaged cheese used in indian and other south asian cuisines, similar to queso blanco panellets almond macaroons, often encrusted with pine nuts or other nuts, made in catalonia for the feast of epiphany paner to coat with bread crumbs panera bread box panforte a rich dense torte made of candied fruit and nuts. panino the italian word for sandwich. panna cotta a dessert made by dissolving unflavored gelatin in milk, then whisking the milk into sweetened heavy cream. sometimes served with a caramel or strawberry topping. pannetone an italian cake made with a dough rich in egg yolks, traditionally served around christmas time. the dough is studded with raisins, candied fruits, and occasionally pistachios. panzanella a salad consisting of toasted cubes of bread tossed with vegetables and vinaigrette. the salad is then marinated for at least one hour. the bread should be very firm so that it will endure the soaking of dressing. vegetables can include tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and onions. lots of garlic, capers, black olives, and anchovies are added to the salad. papad thin, spicy, crisp wafer discs, about 4 to 8 inches in diameter, made from daal flour lentils, vegetables, potatoes, shrimp, and rice. the discs are deep fried or dry roasted on an open flame and served as a crispy savory appetizer. papadam thin, spicy, crisp wafer discs, about 4 to 8 inches in diameter, made from daal flour lentils, vegetables, potatoes, shrimp, and rice. the discs are deep fried or dry roasted on an open flame and served as a crispy savory appetizer. papas potatoes papel de cocina paper towel for the kitchen papillote a cooking method where a product is wrapped in a special paper or foil and baked so that the food cooks in its own juices. pappardelle wide flat pasta noodles served with rich, hearty sauces. paprika hungarian & spanish red pepper paratha a whole wheat unleavened flatbread. this bread, which resembles thick tortillas, may be deep fried, shallow fried, or baked in a tandoor. slightly larger than chapatti, paratha is rolled, layered, folded, and basted with ghee during cooking. may be stuffed with meat and vegetables. parboil to cook partially in a simmering or boiling liquid for a short period of time parchment paper a special, non stick, silicone coated, heat resistant paper used in cooking parejal parsley parer to trim meat parfumer a bouquet of aromatic herbs pargo common sea bream parmesan a popular hard cheese that is usually grated over pasta dishes. pasa raisin pasilla chili pepper called a chilaca in its fresh form. the mature chilaca turns from dark green to dark brown. after drying (when it becomes a pasilla) it changes to a blackish brown. it has a rich hot flavor and is generally ground and used for sauces. passatelli homemade soup noodles made from eggs and bread crumbs. pasta pasta pasta e fagioli a rich bean soup with pasta, in which a large sausage(such as cotechino) has been cooked. the soup is eaten first, followed by the sausage served with mustard and bread. pastel cake pasteleria pastries pastilla (bistella) a moroccan pie made with chicken wrapped in phyllo dough. when finished cooking, the pastilla is dusted with sugar and cinnamon. pastina tiny pasta used in broths and soups. pastry cream a cooked custard thickened with flour. some versions may use cornstarch or a mixture of the two starches. pata negra “black hoof” the term refers to the fabled iberian pig, and the hams produced from it. by association “pata egra” refers to anything of superlative quality patata frita french fries patatas potatoes patatas bravas fried potato pieces with spicy sauce patatas fritas french fries pâté a french term referring to pastes or pastry. pâté a foncer a shortcrust pastry dough made with butter and strengthened with water. used as a lining for meat or fish pies. pâté brisée a short crust pastry dough made with butter and eggs. pâté choux a paste used to make cream puffs, eclairs, and other more elaborate pastries. it is made by adding flour to boiling water or milk, which has been enriched with butter. eggs are then added into the paste to leaven it. savory pastries such as gougere may also be made with this paste. pâté feuilletae a dough comprised of many alternating layers of butter and pastry. this is an extremely versatile dough though preparation of it is labor intensive and very difficult. pâté sablée another type of sweet, short crust dough. pâté sucrée a sweet, short crust dough for tarts and tartlets. pato duck paupiette a thin slice of meat, like a scallopine, which is stuffed and rolled. these may also be made of fish or vegetables. pavo turkey pay pie paysanne triangular shaped slices of vegetables peche peach pechuga de pollo chicken breast pecorino romano a popular italian hard cheese that is similar to parmesan cheese, but saltier in flavor. pedazo grande wedge pedro ximenez a sweet sherry with a raisin like flavor, made from grapes of that name used in cooking and as an after dinner aperatif. pelado peeled pelar peel pelar papas potato peeler penne literally, “feathers” or “quills”; this pasta has a slanted, hollow, tubular form that is thinner than rigatoni. often used in dishes with chunky sauces. pepinillo pickle pepino cucumber pepitas de pollo chicken nuggets peppermint a peppery, spicy, aromatic, refreshing mint used to flavor candies and baked foods. percebes goose barnacles scraped from the sheer granite cliffs of galicia perche perch perdiz partridge perejil parsley perrunilla sugary biscuit, made with lard persil parsley persillade a mixture of chopped parsley and garlic, added to recipes at the end of cooking. pescado fish pesto a sauce made of basil, garlic, olive oil, pignoli, and parmesan cheese often served over pasta. pesto roll a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around pesto, turkey or chicken strips, and cream cheese strips. petits fours small, fancy cookies or cakes, decorated and iced, served on elaborate buffets or at the end of a multi course meal. pez espada swordfish philadelphia roll a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around thin sliced smoked salmon, cucumber strips, and cream cheese strips. picada pounded mixture of herbs, spices, garlic, bread, biscuits, etc., characteristic of catalan cooking picante spicy, hot picar to chop piccata small veal cutlets pickle to preserve or flavor food in brine pico small toasted bread sticks served with tapas pico de gallo literally meaning “rooster’s beak”, this is a very hot, raw salsa made of fresh chiles, onions, and tomatoes. piece montee centerpiece on a platter or buffet piel skin pignoli these tiny cream colored pine nuts have a distinct tarry flavor and are the key component to the popular italian pesto sauce. pilaf a rice dish without meat pimentón paprika pimienta pepper pimiento de padron baby green pepper from galicia, sauteed in extra virgin olive oil until blistered, and then sprikled with sea salt. served as a tapa. most of the identical little peppers are mild, but every fifth or sixth one is extremet hot! some people call it spanish roulette. pimiento de piquillo small, red, peppers with a pointed end. the best come from lodosa in navarra. eaten as tapas or stuffed with fish or meat pimiento rojo ped pepper pimiento verde green pepper piña pineapple pinch a measurement of less than 1/16th of a teaspoon (same as “dash”) piñones pine nut pintxo the basque word for tapas. the best come from towns along the coast stretching from bilbao, zarautz to san sebastian pipe to squeeze a soft food item from a pastry bag to another food item, usually in a decorative manner piperrada basque dish of peppers (capsicum), tomato, onion, etc. piroshki small russian meat pies, like empanadas, eaten for lunch or snacks. pissaladiere a southern french pizza consisting of a thick bread crust covered with cooked onions flavored with garlic. the pizza is then topped with black olives and anchovies. pisto originally from la mancha, a more concentrated version of ratatouille made from fried peppers, onion, tomato, garlic, zucchini, eggplant. pit to remove the center seed from fruits pita bread flat round bread made with or without a pocket. pizca pinch plat plate or dish plat du jour dish of the day plátano banana plato plate, dish, course plato principal main course plongeur pot washer plum sauce a thick, rich, sour fruit dipping sauce used to complement stir fried pork and deep fried appetizers. poach to cook very slowly in simmering liquid. poblano chili pepper a dark, sometimes almost black green chili pepper with a mild flavor. best known for its use in “chili rellenos”, a mexican stuffed pepper. pochar to fry until soft poire pear poisson fish poivre pepper polenta a cornmeal dish that is generally enriched with eggs, butter, cream, or cheese. pollo chicken pomme apple pomme de terre potato poner arrange poner trocitos encima dot with (butter) ponzu sauce made with japanese citron. porc pork posole a mexican soup containing hominy served with various ingredients to be added by each diner. the base of the soup is water flavored with onions, tomatoes(or tomatillos), and herbs. hominy is cooked into this broth and condiments include minced onion, avocado, lime wedges, oregano, queso fresco, and fried pork skin. a similar soup to this is menudo. without the pork skin, this makes a perfect vegetarian soup. postre dessert pot au feu rich soup with bountiful meats and vegetables potage soup potaje leek and potato soup, or a similar stew potiron pumpkin poule hen poussin young chicken praline in french cookery this is a powder or paste made of caramelized almonds and/or hazelnuts. american cookery refers to a candy consisting of caramel and pecans. precook to partially cook food before final cooking process preheat to heat an oven (or sometimes a pan) to a recommended temperature before cooking in it pressure cooking using steam under a locked lid to produce high temperatures to accomplish a fast cooking time primavera a pasta sauce made with vegetables, such as carrots, celery, and bell peppers. pringa cabbage, bean, and meat stew typical of western asturias profiterole a small puff made with pate choux usually filled an served as an appetizer. profiteroles small balls made out of choux proof a cooking term used for the growth of yeast dough’s rise prosciutto salted, air cured ham served in thin slices. provolone an italian curd cheese often used in cannelloni and ravioli. prune plum puchero formerly a trial sample of sausage mixture fried up for testing at the matanza, now has become a dish in its own right puerco pork puerros terra cotta cooking pots, also andalusian one pot stew, similar to cocido pugliese soft and chewy olive oil bread with a thin crust. although this bread is best eaten warm on the day of baking, it makes fine crostini, (italian open sandwiches made on thin slices of toast) the next day. pulao delicately flavored rice, sauteed in ghee and flavored with cumin and cloves. pulpo a feria gallego term referring to places serving octopus (pulperia in castilian) pulse a classification of legumes, including beans, chickpeas, and lentils, among others. pumate italian for sun dried tomatoes. puñado gallego specialty, boiled and sliced octopus with cooked potato, olive oil, pimenton, and sea salt, served on a wooden plate punto de bullición handful punto de fusión boiling point purée the action of mashing a food until it has a thick, smooth consistency; usually done by a blender or food processor. alternatively, the food can be pushed through a colander. puri an unleavened whole wheat flatbread usually around 4 inches in diameter. this “puffed” bread, which is rolled out and deep fried, expands when cooked. puttanesca a piquant pasta sauce made of tomatoes, onions, black olives, capers, anchovies, and chile flakes. the hot pasta is tossed in this sauce prior to serving. some recipes leave the ingredients raw, allowing the heat of the pasta to bring out the flavors. pyramide cheese a truncated pyramid is the shape of this small french chevre that is often coated with dark gray edible ash. the texture can range from soft to slightly crumbly and depending upon it’s age, in flavor from mild to sharp. it is wonderful served with crackers or bread and fruit. quahog the american indian name for the east coast hard shell clam. it is also used to describe the largest of these hard shell clams. other names used are, chowder or large clam. quartier to quarter quatre epices a french spice mixture containing ground cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and pepper. this mixture is used to season stews and pâtes. quenelle a dumpling made from fish or meat forcemeat. quenelles dumplings made of different meats quesadilla originally a corn masa empanada filled with meat then deep fried. modern versions found throughout restaurants in the us are made with flour tortillas that are filled with cheese and folded over when cooked. queso cheese queso manchego authentic manchego cheese is made only from the whole milk of manchega sheep reared in the la mancha region. this semifirm cheese has a rich yet mellow flavor, and is used universally with ham, membrillo, sherry, almonds, olives. quiche an open top pie made of eggs, milk or cream, and anything else within reach. the most famous of these is the quiche lorraine, made with bacon and gruyere cheese. quince this yellow skinned fruit looks and tastes like a cross between an apple and a pear. its texture and flavor make it better cooked than raw. its high pectin content make it ideal for use in jams, jellies, and preserves. quinoa pronounced (keen wah). a natural whole grain grown in south america. originally used by the incas, it can be substituted for rice in most recipes. it is a unique grain in that it serves as a complete protein containing essential amino acids. raan a leg of lamb marinated in yogurt based masala. rábano radish rabo de buey oxtail radicchio a member of the chicory family with red and white leaves. the different varieties range from mild to extremely bitter. the round verona variety are the most common in the us. radicchio is used most often in salads, but is quite suitable to cooked preparations. radis radish rafano horseradish ragout a french term for stew made of meat, fish, or vegetables. ragu meat sauce for pasta; sometimes refers to other hearty sauces. railfort horseradish rainbow roll a maki roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around seafood with diagonal strips of fish across the top. raita a cooling vegetable and yogurt salad served as an accompaniment to hot and spicy dishes. rallado shredded ramekin a very small dish used for individual portions ramen noodles an asian, off white, wheat based noodle that can be boiled and seasoned, then added to soups, salads, meat, vegetables, and side dishes. ramequin a dish in which food is cooked and served ramita grated rape monkfish rapini vegetable of the turnip family whose stems, tender leaves, and buds are usually boiled to decrease their bitterness, then sauteed. referred to as broccoli raab in the united states. ras el hanout this is a powdered spice mixture, used in arabic and north african cooking, with a sweet and pungent flavor. see the definition under charmoula for a description of the ingredients and its applications. rasgulla one of the most famous indian sweets that originated from east india, they consist of paneer flavored with cardamom, and served chilled. ratatouille a vegetable stew consisting of onions, eggplant, sweet peppers, zucchini, and tomatoes flavored with garlic, herbs, and olive oil. traditionally simmered until all of the vegetables are quite soft and the flavor has blended into one, ratatouille takes on the appearance of marmalade. newer versions reduce the cooking time, allowing the vegetables to retain some of their original identity. ratio de toro bull’s tail ravioli an italian pasta filled with meat or cheeses rebozar to coat ingredients such as meat, fish, vegetables in flour, egg, and breadcrumbs before frying receta recipe reconstitute a dried food product is returned to its original form by adding a liquid, hot or cold red dates dried fruit of the chinese jujube tree that have a bright red crinkly skin. reduce to cook by simmering or boiling until its volume is decreased in order to concentrate flavors reducir reduce reduction the result of reducing by boiling down sauces to increase consistency, richness and flavor refrescos soft drinks refresh to stop the cooking process by submerging in or spraying with cold water; common with vegetables and pasta reginelle pasta strips with curly edges. rehogar previously cooked vegetables in olive oil sauteed rellenar to sauce, toss in oil relleno stuffed, filled remoulade this classic french sauce is made by combining mayonnaise (usually homemade) with mustard, capers and chopped gherkins, herbs and anchovies. it is served chilled as an accompaniment to cold meat, fish and shellfish. rennet an extract from the stomach of lambs and calves used in cheese making to coagulate milk. there are also rennets obtained from vegetables such as cardoons. repollo cabbage requeson a fresh cheese that is similar to ricotta or cottage cheese. restaurante restaurant revuelto scrambled eggs ribeiro white wine from galicia ricciarelli almond cookies that are typically covered with a layer of powdered sugar. rice paper a thin, crispy wrap made from rice flour and water used to wrap spring rolls. these wraps, available in either round or triangular form, can be used as a vegetarian substitute for egg roll skins since it does not contain eggs. rice vermicelli thin, translucent, rice flour noodles used to garnish stir fried dishes and soups. rice vinegar aromatic, light, and delicately flavored vinegar distilled from white rice. rice wine a dry, strong, flavorful, clear chinese cooking wine made from fermented rice. this sherry flavored wine is used in chinese stir fried and steamed dishes. rice flour noodles these noodles, made with rich flour and water, range from thin rice vermicelli to the thick broad flat noodles. a traditional ingredient in chicken salads, soups, and stir fries. ricotta fresh, smooth, soft, and slightly salty italian cheese that is similar in texture to cottage cheese. used in a variety of dishes, including lasagnas and pizzas. ricotta salata ricotta cheese that has been drained, cured in brine, and aged for a few days and then grated like pecorino romano. rigatoni large, hollow, ridged pasta tubes commonly used with chunky sauces. interchangeable with ziti. rijsttafel a dutch word, meaning “rice table”. it is a dutch version of an indonesian meal consisting of hot rice accompanied by several (sometimes 20 or 40) small, well seasoned side dishes of seafoods, meats, vegetables, fruits, sauces, condiments, etc. rillette a coarse, highly spiced spread made of meat or poultry and always served cold. this is called potted meat because rillettes are often covered with a layer of lard and stored for a period of time to age the mixture. riñon kidney ris de veau sweetbreads risaia rice paddy risotto a traditional italian dish made with arborio rice, saffron, broth, onions, and garlic. meat, vegetables, cheese, and seasonings are often added. the best known version of this dish is risotto ala milanese, with saffron and reggiano parmesan cheese. rissole small pies similar to empanadas and piroshki. they are filled with meat, vegetables, or cheese and deep fried. roast to cook foods by surrounding them with hot, dry air in an oven (uncovered) or on a spit over an open fire robiola mild and buttery cheese used in various pastas, appetizers, and salads. rociando basting rock sugar crystallized raw sugar that is less sweet than refined sugar. roe the generic japanese term that refers to fish eggs, flying fish, smelt, salmon, and other sushi. rogan josh rich lamb curry rolling boil boiling water at very high heat so that even if stirred the water continues to boil (bubble) rollito to smooth out pastry dough to an even thickness with a rolling pin. always roll in one direction, not backward and forward, turning the dough frequently. romaine cos lettuce romana rome style; a term whose definition varies with each dish romanello hard, grated skim milk cheese romero rosemary romesco a sauce made of pounded almonds, hazelnuts, garlic, tomato, olive oil typical of tarragona ron rum rondelle round or bias rond cuts, varied diameter or thickness. roquefort a blue semi soft french cheese rosemary a fresh, bittersweet herb that resembles short pine needles. rosolio a delicate, sweet, and unique liqueur made by macerating rose petals in an alcoholic infusion. served with dessert. rosquilla doughnut rosti a swiss potato pancake made from cooked potatoes, sometimes flavored with bacon. rosumada milanese eggnog that is traditionally prepared with red wine. water or milk is sometimes substituted. rotelle wheel shaped, cork screwed pasta that most sauces cling to easily roti the hindi term for bread. “tandoori roti” is baked in a tandoor; “rumali roti” is very thin and large, usually cooked on a griddle. rotini wheel shaped, cork screwed pasta that most sauces cling to easily rotir to roast rotisseur roast cooking method rouget red mullet rouille a thick sauce similar to aioli, made of dried chiles, garlic, and olive oil. rouille is traditionally served with bouillabaisse and soup de poisson. other recipes also add saffron and tomatoes. roux a mixture of flour and fat used to thicken sauces, soups, and stews. though usually made with butter, rouxs are also made with bacon or poultry fats, margarine, and vegetable oil. the mixture is cooked for a brief time to remove the raw taste of the starch from the flour. longer cooking results in a darker color, which is favorable in creole cooking where rouxs are cooked for long periods until they reach a dark brown color. royale type of custard cut into different shapes, used to garnish consomme russe stew pan saag an aromatic curried dish made from greens saba lightly salted and marinated mackerel sabayon an italian custard made with egg yolks and wine or juices, which are beaten vigorously over hot water to form a rich, creamy dessert. the custard can then be poured into glasses and chilled to be eaten later, or eaten warm with fresh fruit. marsala is the most common wine used, though any sweet wine such as madeira, champagne, or sauterne may be used. also called zabaglione. sabji a general indian term to describe vegetables.see also sabzi. sable a rich short cookies similar to shortbread. sabzi a general indian term to describe vegetables. the same as sabji, but from northern india. sachet a small bag usually made of cheesecloth containing herbs and spices and is placed into soups, stews, stocks and sauces while cooking for added flavor and is removed when the item is finished cooking saffron a sharp, orange red color spice made from the dry stigmata of the flower of the crocus plant. a common ingredient in risottos. sagne nickname for lasagna saisir to sear meat surfaces in hot fat sake a japanese wine, sauce, or marinade, made from fermented rice. sal salt salamandre salamander  broiler; top fired grill salchicha sausage salchichon applied to any food preserved in salt, en salazon. salmon teriyaki broiled salmon with teriyaki sauce salmorejo gazpacho thickened with bread. salpicon a mixture of finely diced meat of ham and mushrooms in sauce salsa a sauce mixed with tomatoes, onions, chili, and cilantro. traditionally served as a side dip to most mexican dishes. salsa verde green sauce. salt cod cod that has been salted and dried to preserve it for long periods of time. salt cod is evident in cuisines of the mediterranean and caribbean seas. to reconstitute the fish, you must soak it in many changes of fresh water to remove the excess salt. you may then poach the fish until it is just flaking off the bone, or use it raw for other preparations. salteado to sauté. saltimbocca an italian dish comprised of thin slices of veal, rolled around ham and cheese, seasoned with sage and braised until tender. saltpeter the name for potassium nitrate, which is used primarily in the meat industry to help preserve cured meats. it gives a distinctive pink color to hams and bacon. there are recent reports from the usda that nitrates, and nitrites are carcinogenic. sambhar lentil curry served as a complement to idli. sambuca an anise flavored liqueur served as an after dinner drink to help digestion. samfaina sauted samosa crispy, deep fried triangular pastries filled with spiced potatoes, vegetables, or meat. served as an appetizer. sandía watermelon sangria spanish drink made from sweet red wine, pieces of fresh fruit (usually orange and lemon), spices (cinnamon,cloves) sansho japanese pepper made from the leaf of the prickly ash. sashimi assorted slices of fresh raw fish traditionally served with pickled ginger, soy sauce, and wasabi. unlike sushi, it is usually prepared without rice. sashlik an indian cooking term meaning “grilled”. satay also spelled sat‚ and sateh. these are pieces of meat or fish threaded onto skewers and grilled over a flame. several variations of these are seen throughout southeast asia. a spicy peanut sauce is served with meat satay in vietnam and thailand. sauce a liquid that adds flavor and moisture to foods sauge sage saumon salmon saute a french word that describes a method for cooking foods in a shallow pan using high heat. the food is cooked in an uncovered pan and a small quantity of butter or oil. unlike stir frying where the food is continuously turned, sauteed food is turned only once in the pan in order to cook both sides. if the food, such as a thin cut of meat, is turned more than once, the cooking method is considered stir frying or pan frying rather than sauteing. sauteuse shallow pan with sloping sides (often confused with a saute pan) sautoir round shallow heavy pan with straight walls & long handle savarin a ring shaped cake made of a rich yeast dough, soaked with a rum syrup, and filled with pastry or whipped cream. sawara spanish mackerel sazonar to season. scald to heat a liquid just below boiling with bubbles around the edges scallion very young onions picked when beds of onions need to be thinned. both the shallot and the green onion, which have small bulbs, are also known as scallions scallop to bake food with a sauce or other liquid in a casserole scampi another word for langoustine. this word is used in the us as a description of shrimp broiled with butter, lemon, and garlic. scone a small, lightly sweetened pastry similar to american biscuits, often flavored with currants. score tenderizing meats or seafood by slicing with a knife sea urchin a round spiny creature found off the coasts of europe and america. the only edible portion is the coral, usually eaten raw with fresh lemon juice. seafood sunomono assorted seafood and cucumber with vinegar sauce. seafood tempura assorted seafood and vegetables lightly deep fried in batter. seafood teriyaki broiled shrimp, fish, and scallops with vegetables and teriyaki sauce. sear to seal in the juices of meat by quickly browning it on all sides in a very hot pan season enhancing the flavor of food by adding ingredients such as herbs and spices; cooking term also means to oil a pan and slowly warm it and then wipe it seaweed salad fresh green seaweed salad seekh kabab literally, “skewer kababs”; these kababs, served on skewers, are usually made from ground lamb, mixed with various spices, and cooked in a tandoor. seigo young sea bass selle saddle of lamb semifreddo meaning “half cold”, this is gelato with whipped cream folded into it. semolina coarse, pale flour traditionally used in pasta and pizza dough. this flour is high in fiber and protein, and gives pasta and pizza its chewy characteristic. senbei thin, crisp, rice crackers flavored with soy sauce or other seasonings. serrano “of the mountain,” e.g. jamon serrano sesame seeds tiny, nutty flavored oval seeds used to flavor meat, poultry, stir fries and popular desserts. set to allow food to solidify set meal service all customers eat at one time. often called quantity cooking b/c large batches are prepared in advance. ie: school cafeterias, banquets, employee dining rooms. setas wild mushrooms. sev a thin stringy fried snack made from gram flour. seviche a spanish dish of raw fish, scallops, or shrimp marinated in citrus juices until the flesh becomes “cooked”. onions, peppers, and chiles are then added to finish the dish. shako mantis shrimp shaoxing a dry, strong, flavorful, clear chinese cooking wine made from fermented rice. this sherry flavored wine is used in chinese stir fried and steamed dishes. shari a sushi bar term for sushi rice shichimi togarashi mixed hot spices for table use. the flavors consist of red pepper (togarashi), ground sansho pepper pods, dried mandarin orange peel, black hemp seeds or white poppy seeds, nori seaweed bits, and white sesame seeds. shiitake mushroom a flavorful, fleshy chinese black mushroom widely used in the chinese cuisine. shima aji striped jack fish. common in sushi and sashimi. shime saba marinated mackerel shiratake translucent rubbery noodles shirley temple a popular children’s non alcoholic cocktail made with ginger ale, colored with grenadine syrup, and garnished with a maraschino cherry. shiro goma white sesame seeds shiro maguro albacore tuna; white tuna. shiro miso white soy bean paste shiromi seasonal “white meat” fish served as sushi/sashimi which is relatively white in color, for example, hirame and karei. shirumono generic japanese term for soup. shiso japanese mint; the leaf of the perilla plant. used frequently in maki sushi and sashimi. shochu a distilled, clear alcoholic beverage made from a variety of different ingredients, including potatoes, rice, barley, buckwheat, and/or sugar. shoga ginger root shortbread a butter rich cookie from scotland, often seasoned with lemon, cinnamon, ginger, almonds, and cumin. shoyu japanese for soy sauce. shred to tear or cut food into narrow strips shrimp roll a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around shrimp and cream cheese strips. shrimp tempura shrimp and vegetables lightly fried and served with dipping sauce. shrimp teriyaki broiled shrimp with teriyaki sauce. shuck to remove the shells from clams and oysters; also to remove the husks from corn siago an italian cheese from the veneto region. after it has aged, it has a piquant, salty flavor and is usually used for grating and cooking. sichuan cuisine one of the most famous chinese cuisines in the world. characterized by its spicy and pungent flavors, the sichuan cuisine emphasizes the use of chili. pepper, garlic, ginger, fermented soybean, and prickly ash produce this cuisine’s exciting tastes. frying, frying without oil, pickling, and braising are used as basic cooking techniques. sichuan pepper hot, peppery dried red berries that are roasted and ground to produce a pungent and aromatic seasoning. sichuan pepper is one of the spices of chinese five spice powder. sidra a hard, very dry cider that is the typical drink of asturias in northern spain, often replacing wine as a lunch or dinner accompaniment. it is also used to make sauces for meat and fish. as a substitute for cooking in the usa use only hard cider available in liquor stores. it is a bit sweeter than the asturian cider but works very well in cooking. in addition, sidra describes a sparkling cider imported from spain is often found in spanish markets. this product is quite sweet and meant to be used like champagne, not as a cooking liquid. sieve to press a food through a strainer to break it up sift to remove lumps from certain foods while aerating it simmer to cook food gently in liquid that bubbles steadily, just below boiling point, so that the food cooks in even heat without breaking up. simple syrup two parts water and one part sugar cooked together skate wings this is the edible portion of the skate. the flesh, when cooked, separates into little fingers of meat and has a distinctive rich, gelatinous texture. the taste is similar to that of scallops. skim removing fat or impurities that have risen to the top of a liquid being cooked slivered thin slices about 1/4 inch by 1/8 inch small dice 1/4 in x 1/4 in x 1/4 in cube. smoked salmon roll a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around smoked salmon, cream cheese strips, and cucumber strips. smoking point the temperature at which fat breaks down and starts smoking smorgasbord a swedish buffet of many dishes served as hors d oeuvres or a full meal. similar buffets are served throughout scandinavia, as well as the soviet union. common elements of a smorgasbord are pickled herring, marinated vegetables, smoked and cured salmon and sturgeon, and a selection of canapés. smothering smothering a dish consists of slowly simmering it in a covered pan with a small amount of liquid. soba japanese buckwheat noodles served in a soy flavored broth made from fish and seaweed stock. soba noodle buckwheat noodles resembling spaghetti, used in japanese cooking. sobrassada pork sausage from the balearic islands, of a spreading consistency, cured with large amounts of pimenton socarrat highly valued by connoisseurs of paella, the rice at the center of the pan’s base, which becomes caramelized or lightly burned during cooking soft shell crab fried, marinated soft shell crab served with dipping sauce. soft taco a warm soft flour tortilla filled with seasoned beef, shredded lettuce and grated cheese. commonly topped with salsa, sour cream, or guacamole. solomillo sirloin, fillet. somen white, threadlike wheat noodles. sopa soup. sorbet a water ice served between meals to stimulate appetite sorrel low perennial herb with acid leaves. it is used to flavor sauces. sous chef assistant to executive soy sauce a highly flavored, salty, tangy, brown liquid brewed from fermented soybeans and salt. darker, stronger sauces are used for cooking while lighter ones are used as sauces and seasonings. chinese dishes are traditionally called red cooked when soy sauce is used or white cooked when soy sauce is omitted. japanese soy sauce is called shoyu. soya bean paste a hot aromatic sauce made from seasoned ground soya beans, chilies, peppers, sugar, and salt. spaghetti resembling “little strings”, spaghetti is made from durum wheat and remains one of the most popular types of pasta today. spatzle this is a coarse noodle from alsace and germany made of flour, eggs, oil, and water. the soft dough is dropped into boiling water(with a spatzle press) and poached until cooked through. the noodle is then fried in butter or oil and served as a side dish to meat dishes. spatzle may also be flavored with cheese, mushrooms, and herbs. speck cured and smoked pork flank. spiedini an italian word for skewers of meat or fish grilled over a flame or under a broiler. spring roll thin sheets of dough which are filled with meat, seafood, or vegetables and rolled into logs. spring rolls are most often deep fried, though they may also be steamed. chinese versions use wheat doughs, while the vietnamese and thai versions use a rice paper wrapper. spumoni three flavors of ice cream, with a fruit and/or nut layer between each flavor. the flavors are cherry, pistachio, and either chocolate or vanilla. steam to cook by direct contact with steam steel a dowel shaped tool used to sharpen knives steep to soak dry ingredients in water or another liquid until the flavor is infused into the liquid stew to gradually cook ingredients in a covered pot for a long time (until tender) stir fry fast frying in a small amount of oil over very high heat while continuously stirring ingredients stock a flavored broth from meats, fish, shellfish, and vegetables. these are the basis of sauce and soup making. strain to separate and reserve the liquid contents from a cooking process such as straining the liquid from the bones and vegetables for stock stromboli a stuffed pizza dish. strudel paper thin pastry rolled around sweet fillings of fruit, nuts, or cheese. savory versions of this are similar to the russian coulibiac. su rice vinegar sucs dehydrated solids of concentrated flavor left in the bottom of a pan after cooking meats; adding water dissolves the sucs, creating the fond base liquid sudare a mat made from bamboo strips to create maki sushi. sugar syrup differentiating from natural syrups, this term refers to a solution of sugar and water. simple syrups are made with equal quantities of water and sugar. heavy syrup is made with twice as much sugar as water. these types of syrups are used in making sorbets, soft drinks, and for soaking cakes. suimono clear soup sukiyaki thin sliced beef, tofu, noodles, and vegetables cooked in sukiyaki sauce sumashi soup clear soup with mushroom and scallions summer melon roll a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around prosciutto and melon strips. supreme breast of chicken, bone in sushi the sweetened, sticky japanese rice; the fish is sashimi. however, when rice is wrapped around raw fish, restaurants refer to this roll as sushi. it is important to understand that the term “sushi” refers to rice rolls, not fish fillings. these rolls are typically served with wasabi, wrapped with thin nori seaweed and a layer of rice on the outside, and filled with raw fish. suzuki sea bass sweat to cook in a very small amount of fat over low heat (sometimes covered) without browning to release flavors and moisture sweetbread the culinary term for the thymus gland of an animal. those of veal and lamb are most commonly eaten. the pancreas is also considered a sweetbread, but its taste and texture is inferior to that of the thymus gland. syllabub an english dessert comprised mainly of whipped cream sweetened with sugar and flavored with sherry, brandy, or cointreau. lemon zest, fruit preserves or puree may also be swirled into the cream. szechuan cuisine one of the most famous chinese cuisines in the world. characterized by its spicy and pungent flavors, the sichuan cuisineemphasizes the use of chili. pepper, garlic, ginger, fermented soybean, and prickly ash produce this cuisine’s exciting tastes. frying, frying without oil, pickling, and braising are used as basic cooking techniques. szechuan pickle a hot, salty, peppery pickle often used to intensify the spiciness of a dish. tabasco sauce a thin spicy sauce made of vinegar, red peppers, and salt, developed in america by edmund mcilhenny at his home on avery island before the u.s. civil war. mcilhenny company is the sole supplier of tabasco® pepper sauce to this day. this sauce is commonly used with creole food, chili con carne, and eggs. tabbouleh a lebanese salad made of softened bulghur tossed with vegetables and seasoned with lemon and mint. table d’hote the set menu at a fixed price tadka a melange of spices, herbs, oil, and vegetables that flavors many indian dishes. tagine a moroccan dish named after the cooking utensil in which it has been cooked. these stews may contain poultry, fish, meat, or vegetables and are highly spiced with sweet overtones common in north african cuisine. tagliarini a flat ribbon pasta, narrower than tagliatelle, measuring approximately 3mm across. tagliatelle ribbon shaped noodles that are popularly served plain or with spinach. often used interchangeably with fettuccine. tahini a paste made from sesame seeds, used primarily in hummus and baba ganoush. tai porgy or red snapper tako cooked octopus talana an indian cooking term meaning “deep fried in oil or ghee”. tamago sweet egg custard wrapped in dried seaweed tamago yaki sweet egg omelet tamal a flavorful corn husk stuffed with chicken or shredded beef. smothered with cheese and a red chili sauce. tamari thick and dark sauce made from soybeans. tamarind this is the fruit pod of trees originally from africa, now common in asia, india, and the west indies. the taste is bittersweet with citrus overtones. the pulp is very sticky and difficult to work with. common forms sold are syrups and bricks of the pulp. it is used extensively in dishes of these regions as well as in candy and drinks. tandoor the traditional, tall, cylindrical indian clay oven. this clay pot, which has a deep sunken neck, is heated by hot charcoal. long iron rods are used to stir the contents. the tandoor oven enhances the delectable flavors and aromas of indian dishes. tandoori an indian method of cooking. tandoori spices, including ginger, cumin, coriander, paprika, turmeric, and cayenne, are mixed with pureed garlic, ginger, lemon juice, and oil. after this red orange sauce coats the food, it is cooked in the tandoor. tandoori spices may be added to yogurt or used in a marinade. tandoori murgh tandoori chicken marinated with spices, red peppers, and yogurt. tapadera seive. tapas hors d’ouvres tapenade a paste made from cured black olives seasoned with olive oil, garlic, anchovies, capers, lemon, and marc or cognac. this is common in provence, where it is served with croutons and raw vegetables to dip. this also makes a good sauce for grilled meats and strong flavored fish. taquitos rolled crispy deep fried corn tortillas filled with meat. taramasalata a greek dip made of olive oil and fish roe with the consistency similar to that of mayonnaise. american versions commonly use salmon, whitefish, or carp roe. this is served with raw vegetables and bread or croutons. tarka a mixture of whole spices and/or garlic rapidly cooked over high heat. usually added as a final seasoning or tempering to indian dishes. tarta de queso cheese cake tartare this is a term which has several meanings. it is often used to describe the preparation of raw beef called steak tartare. raw beef is chopped finely and served with minced onion, parsley, capers, and seasoned with anything from worcestershire sauce to tabasco sauce. tartare sauce describes a mayonnaise based sauce with capers, onion, hard cooked eggs, cornichons, and herbs. tarte flambé an alsatian pizza with a thin crust topped with fresh white cheese, onions, and bacon. this is also called an alsatian firepie. tarte tatin a type of tart in which the pastry is baked on top of the fruit, then inverted when finished baking. apples are traditionally used, becoming soft and caramelized during baking. tartufo a chocolate ice cream dessert molded into a truffle. tasse served in a cup tataki a cooking term that describes a food grilled on the surface, then chopped or pounded. tawa a thick griddle taza para medir measuring cup. tazuna sushi a maki roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around seafood with diagonal strips of fish across the top. teapot seafood soup a japanese soup consisting of shrimp, scallop, crabmeat, fish cake, and vegetables. tekka don fresh tuna served on a bed of sushi rice tekka maki deep fried tempura vegetables and seafood. tekkappa a mixture of both tuna and cucumber rolls. temaki literally “hand rolls”; cones made from dried nori seaweed and most commonly wrapped around sushi rice, seafood (salmon, natto, negi toro, ume shiso,) and vegetables. temakizushi literally “hand rolls”; cones made from dried nori seaweed and most commonly wrapped around sushi rice, seafood (salmon, natto, negi toro, ume shiso,) and vegetables. temper to slowly introduce a hot liquid or batter component to a mix containing eggs; to prevent cooking an egg base through slow incorporation of a hot component that must be added to a dish containing eggs tempura a popular japanese dish consisting of seafood and vegetables deep fried in a light batter. teriyaki a japanese dish that has been marinated in a mixture of soy sauce, sugar, ginger, and seasonings before being grilled, broiled, or fried. the sugary marinade coats the cooked food with a slight glaze. teriyaki chicken broiled chicken served with sweet soy teriyaki sauce. ternera veal ternera picada minced beef terrine earthenware casserole texas roll a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around sliced cooked beef, cucumber strips, and spinach leaves. thin reducing the thickness of a liquid by adding more liquid thon tuna fish tibio beef tierno tender, fresh. tikka skewered boneless cubes of meat, poultry, or seafood. usually marinated and cooked in a tandoor. a type of kebab. tiramisu a sweet, rich, layered dessert made from sponge cake, and mascarpone cheese, brandy, and espresso. shavings of chocolate or cocoa are sprinkled on top. toad in the hole an english dish consisting of pieces of meat or sausages covered with batter and baked in the oven. tobiko flying fish roe. this red, crunchy fish is often served as part of maki sushi and nigiri sushi. tocino bacon tocino de cielo “heavenly bacon,” a sweet made of egg yolks and sugar tofu obtained from the milky liquid extracted from soy beans. this high protein, low fat food is a popular meat substitute for vegetarians and health conscious diners. togarashi hot, dried japanese chili peppers tomate tomato tonkatsu a tasty pork cutlet that is breaded then fried. usually served on a bed of rice. tori chicken torigai japanese cockle, or black and white shell fish. toro the fat belly of tuna. toronja grapefruit torta del casar an extraordinary sheep’s milk cheese shaped like a pie or tart, made only in casar, a village near caceres in extremadura. popular since medieval times, it is very soft and creamy, perfect to dip into with crusty bread. torta rustica a large pie similar to coulibiac, filled with salmon, cabbage or spinach, eggs, and mushrooms. other versions use meat or sausage in the filling. the crust is usually made of bread dough and sprinkled with salt before using. tortas large mexican sandwich rolls often filled with generous servings. tortellini small rings of pasta stuffed with cheese, meat, or vegetables; generally found in soup, but sometimes served with a sauce. tortelloni this is a larger version of the tortellini. tortilla an egg and potato based omelet tortilla de patatas spanish potato omelet tortillita de camaron shrimp egg fritters, made with a thin batter and sizzled a la plancha toss mixing ingredients by gently tossing together with an upward motion tostada a thin, flat, crispy, corn tortilla layered with ground beef or shredded chicken, lettuce, diced tomato, and melted cheese. usually loaded with guacamole, sour cream, and salsa. tournedo a slice of beef from the heart of the tenderloin, approximately an inch thick. this term is rarely used in america today, being replaced by filet of beef or filet mignon. tournedos a small steak from the center of the tenderloin tourner to turn, to shape vegetables or potatoes with a knife tourte similar to pâté en croute, these are pies made in a round shape and served cold. they are generally highly seasoned and preparations are indicative to the region they are from. trancher to carve or slice trenne short, triangular, hollow pasta used with thick sauces. similar to penne, ziti, and rigatoni. trennette flat noodles, wider than fettuccine, that have one flat edge and one scalloped edge. tripe the stomach of beef, pork, and sheep. trucha trout truffle this is a mushroom of unusual flavor and aroma. it is savored in italian and french cookery, and due to its scarcity, draws a very high price. the black truffle of perigord and the white truffle of piedmont, in particular, are highly prized for their exceptional flavors. black truffles are best served cooked; white truffles are best shaved directly on the dish before eating. tsubugai japanese shellfish tuffolone large tubes of pasta that are typically stuffed and baked. tuiles crisp, paper thin cookies named for their tile like appearance. they are often flavored with almond slices, lemon, and vanilla. tumeric a bright yellow spice used primarily in commercial curry powder. it is also used in sweet pickles and for various dishes requiring a yellow color. this is used as a coloring substitute for saffron. tuna salad roll a sushi roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around tuna salad and lettuce leaves. turmeric a bright yellow, bitter, flavorful spice commonly used in curry sauces. turron an almond and honey confection of arab origin now made in jijona, alicante and other regions. it comes as “duro” a hard crunchy brittle (alicante style) and “blando” in a soft halvah like bar (jijona style). available all year, but especially consumed during the christmas season. txakoli acidic white wine from basque country txistorra, chistorra long thin sausage sold in coils, of basque/navarrese origin. txoko a basque gastronomic society tzatziki sauce dipping sauce derived from yogurt, garlic, cucumber, olive oil and lemon juice. served with calamari. tzimmes traditionally served on rosh hashana, this sweet jewish dish consists of various combinations of fruits, meat and vegetables. all are flavored with honey and often with cinnamon as well. the flavors of this casserole style dish develop by cooking it at a very low temperature for a very long time. udon long, thick, white, buckwheat japanese noodles. ugli a citrus fruit hybrid between a grapefruit and a tangerine native to jamaica. it is available around the country from winter to spring. it has an acid sweet flavor and is an excellent source of vitamin c. ume shu a popular, sweet, alcoholic drink made from plums. unagi freshwater eel; grilled and brushed with a teriyaki flavored sauce. unaju broiled eel on rice with pickles uni the sexual organs (gonads/ovaries) of the hermaphroditic sea urchin. unleavened baked items that have no ingredients to give them volume (no yeast, no eggs, no baking powder for example) upma spiced semolina, which may be cooked with tiny cubed potatoes and peas, then garnished with freshly grated coconut and cilantro. urta fish common on the coast of cadiz, most often prepared a la rotena (in the style of rota) with peppers, tomato, and potato usukuchi shoyu light japanese soy sauce. uvas grapes vacherin a crisp, sweet meringue shell used as a serving vessel for fruit and ice cream. vaciar empty vadas a round deep fried savory snack made from lentils and potatoes. served with chutneys. vainilla vanilla vanilla a plant native to mexico now common in areas throughout the west indies and indian ocean. the pod is used to make extracts which we use in cooking. the whole pod may also be purchased and used as a fragrance or split and scraped to allow the tiny seeds to flavor the dish. it is generally thought of as a sweet spice, used in custards, creams, and cakes. it is also used in savory dishes with vegetables or seafood. there are also imitation vanilla flavorings using synthetically produced vanillin. these can be found in liquid and powder forms. vapor steamer varak fine, thin, edible, silver foil used to garnish indian desserts and paan. known to help digestion. veau veal vegetable tempura vegetables lightly fried in tempura batter and served with dipping sauce. vegetable teriyaki mixed vegetables with teriyaki sauce veggie roll a vegetarian roll, typically consisting of nori seaweed and rice, wrapped around pesto, cucumber strips, tomato strips, and mushroom strips. veloute a roux thickened white stock; chicken, fish, or veal. “one of the mother sauces” venta roadside locale combining elements of restaurant, shop, bar, and gas station, common in the south of spain vermicelli a very fine round noodle which means “small worms”. these are thinner than spaghetti and thicker than capellini. verter pour vialone nana a plump grain, or firm inner starch rice, that makes a risotto dish have a firm bite. viande meat vichyssoise a chilled soup of potatoes and leeks. other versions now use zucchini, apples, and carrots. victual food or other provisions. vieiras gallego term for scallops vinagre normally a white wine vinegar made of sherry vinaigrette a sauce commonly used to dress salads, comprised of oil and vinegar. emulsified vinaigrettes use egg and/or mustard to stabilize the dressing. other combinations using acids other than vinegar, such as wine or citrus juice, are also called vinaigrettes. vindaloo spicy meat, marinated in garam masala (cumin, mustard seeds, ginger, onion, garlic, cinnamon, and cloves), then cooked in vinegar, mustard oil, and red pepper. vino blanco white wine vino de champaaa champagne vino malaga an intense raisin flavored fortified spanish wine, generally served as a dessert wine or between meals. strictly speaking, true malaga wine is aged only in th province of malaga. vino rosado rose wine vino tinto red wine virgin olive oil a robust fruity flavored olive oil made from the pulp of the highest quality olives. it adds a distinctive flavor to salad dressings and is used in dishes where strong flavored oil is needed. vitello tonnato thinly sliced roast or braised veal, served cold with a creamy, piquant tuna sauce. this combination may sound a bit unusual, but is surprisingly delicious. vol au vent puff pastry in a shell in which ragout or fricassee is served volaille poultry volver turn vuelta y vuelta over easy wakame dark green, dried, lobe leafed strands of seaweed often used in miso soup or sunomono salads. wasabi called japanese horseradish, this is a root that is dried and ground to a fine powder. this powder is then reconstituted and used for dipping sauce with soy sauce when eating sushi and sashimi. washi japanese rice paper washoku literally meaning “japanese style food”, this comprehensive term refers to any japanese dish that reflects the uniqueness, creativity, and diversity of the cuisine. water bath the french call this cooking technique bain marie. it consists of placing a container of food in a large, shallow pan of warm water, which surrounds the food with gentle heat. the food may be cooked in this manner either in an oven or on top of a range. this technique is designed to cook delicate dishes such as custards, sauces and savory mousses without breaking or curdling them. it can also be used to keep foods warm. water chestnut a crisp walnut sized bulb with brownish green skin. waterzooi a rich flemish stew with chicken or fish and assorted vegetables. the sauce is enriched with a liaison of cream and egg yolks. welsh rarebit often confused as welsh rabbit, this is a cheese sauce made with ale and seasoned with dry mustard, black pepper, and worcestershire sauce. this is traditionally served over toast, with or without crumbled bacon. it is also a good variation of fondue and goes well with beer and ale. whelk a small marine snail. whelks are poached and served hot or cold. whipped butter light, easily spread butter that has been beaten with air to increase the volume. whipped cream an ideal cream to create a light frothy topping for a variety of desserts. whisk to quickly mix air into ingredients; also the name of a cooking tool wiener schnitzel thin slices of veal or pork breaded and fried in butter. traditional garnishes are lemon butter, anchovies, and capers. wok a cone shaped utensil with a rounded bottom, which encourages ingredients to return to the center. this utensil, which is used to cook most chinese dishes, preserves the natural quality of the food. wonton a chinese dumpling made from egg noodle dough. these wontons, which are usually filled with seafood, meat, or vegetables, may be boiled, deep fried, or steamed. commonly prepared in soups. wonton wrappers thin sheets of dough made from flour, eggs, and salt. used for small meat and vegetable filled dumplings known as pot stickers and wontons. worcestershire sauce a condiment developed in england from flavors discovered in india. it is used as a sauce, a seasoning, and a condiment. it is made of a very odd assortment of ingredients including anchovies, tamarind, vinegar, molasses, and cloves. wprw wash, peel, rewash xanthan gum produced from the fermentation of corn sugar. it is most commonly used as a stabilizer, emulsifier and thickener in foods such as yogurt, sour cream and salad dressings. yagi japanese for goat. yakidofu grilled tofu yakisoba sauteed japanese noodles with shrimp and vegetables yakitori charcoal grilled chicken served on skewers and sauteed with teriyaki sauce. yakiudon sauteed japanese noodles with shrimp and vegetables yakumi strongly flavored seasonings, such as shichimi togarashi, grated daikon, and fine chopped negi. a typically substitute for wasabi in nigiri, katsuo, and aji dishes. yard of ale an elongated glass, measuring approximately 26 inches long holding 42 fluid ounces. yema egg yolk, also refers to a convent sweet made of soft yolk and sugar yuzu japanese citrus fruit that adds zest to many dishes. zabaglione an italian custard made with egg yolks and wine or juices, which are beaten vigorously over hot water to form a rich, creamy dessert. the custard can then be poured into glasses and chilled to be eaten later, or eaten warm with fresh fruit. marsala is the most common wine used, though any sweet wine such as madeira, champagne, or sauterne may be used. also called sabayon. zakuski the russian version of tapas involving a lot of food and vodka. zampone a specialty of the town of modena in northern italy, this consists of a hollowed and stuffed pig trotter which is poached and served as a part of a traditional bollito misto. zanahoria carrot zante grapes tiny seedless grapes with a sweet flavor. zeppole fried dough, or a sweet fritter, made with a simple batter of flour and sugar. zest the outer rind of citrus fruit ziti long, thin, tubular shaped pasta that is similar to rigatoni or penne. zitoni wide, hollow, tubular pasta. a larger version of ziti pasta. zorongollo a murcian dish of zucchini, onion, and egg zucchini squash a cylindrical summer squash with a dark green skin covering a whitish flesh. similar to a cucumber in size and shape. zuccotto an italian dessert consisting of triangles of sponge cake that have been moistened with a curacao liqueur. traditionally, the cake is placed around the inside of a bowl to form a shell, filled with whipped cream, and topped with bits of chocolate, caramel, hazelnuts, almonds, and an additional layer of cake. it is presented in a dome shape, supposedly inspired by the design of an italian cathedral. zuppa italian soup zuppa inglese literally translated as “english soup”, this italian dish is, in fact, a refrigerated dessert similar to the british favorite, trifle. it is made with rum sprinkled slices of sponge cake layered with a rich custard or whipped cream (or both) and candied fruit or toasted almonds (or both). zurrukutuna a soup of salt cod, pepper, and egg zushi the sweetened, sticky japanese rice; the fish is sashimi. however, when rice is wrapped around raw fish, restaurants refer to this roll as sushi. it is important to understand that the term “sushi” refers to rice rolls, not fish fillings. these rolls are typically served with wasabi, wrapped with thin nori seaweed and a layer of rice on the outside, and filled with raw fish. did you find this article helpful? try these next: follow escoffier graduate mason snyder, the cowboy chef, on his journey from farm fields to executive chef, blending sustainability and culinary passion. wondering if it's too late to become a chef? it's not! discover how you can start a culinary career at any age and find success in the kitchen. earning the title of michelin star chef is a goal that many culinary professionals dream of. we’re going to cover how chefs can obtain this award. get the king of chefs email newsletter delivered to your inbox weekly. you'll get everything you need to know about culinary & pastry careers, food entrepreneurship, 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newsletter toasted bread, tomatoes and watermelon are tossed with a piquant dressing that’s made from both the sweet watermelon flesh and tangy rind. by melissa clark it’s juneteenth, a day traditionally celebrated with brightly hued red foods. if you’re searching for some summery inspiration, look no further than gabrielle e.w. carter’s recipe for country panzanella with watermelon dressing, adapted by nicole taylor and yewande komolafe. this colorful, cooling salad, full of toasted bread, tomatoes and watermelon, is tossed with a piquant dressing that’s made from both the sweet watermelon flesh and tangy rind. using a large holed grater is the key to getting the texture right for the dressing, which is spiked with mustard seeds and red pepper flakes. serve it in big bowl along with a platter of genevieve ko’s grilled chicken legs for a satisfying warm weather meal, on juneteenth or anytime. featured recipe view recipe → also red flecked and festive, farideh sadeghin’s succotash is based on a native american dish introduced to colonial immigrants in the 17th century. you can use fresh or frozen corn and lima beans in farideh’s version, which is sweetened even further with juicy cherry tomatoes and vidalia onion. while we’re talking beans, ali slagle’s new recipe for one pot white beans with prosciutto and dates is an absolute stunner. the combination of salty ham, butterscotch y dates and soft white beans speckled with crunchy celery is both speedy and special. summer has rushed in at full force here in the northeast, with june impersonating august and sending everyone scampering for air conditioning. luckily genevieve is here with her grain bowl with sardines and sauce moyo. the sauce, a snappy west african staple of onion, peppers and tomatoes brightened with chile and lime, adds a little crunch to a mix of quick cooking grains (such as fonio or quinoa) and soft, rich pieces of smoked tinned fish. it’s a filling, nearly no cook meal for the steamiest summer days, and it’s especially great for lunch. for a dessert that’s like air conditioning for your palate, yossy arefi’s lemon olive oil ice cream is silky, tart sweet and very sophisticated thanks to a drizzle of good oil and flaky sea salt on top. (take that, hot fudge.) by the way, if you’ve been thinking of buying an ice cream maker, take advantage of wirecutter’s special discount on their favorite model. it’s under $50, but the sale ends today. while there are countless recipes for dal, priya krishna’s everyday dal is as soothing and restorative (and quick) as they come. ready in 15 minutes and made with pantry staples, it’s fragrant with spices, rich with ghee and perfect for serving with roti or rice.