Biller Cold - Technicalities -Shrieking
Winds Confronted Italian Mountaineers
By Jenk Jones
Anchorage Times Staff Writer
ANCHORAGE UP) — Bitter cold,
technical problems and shrieking
wind were the unholy trinity six
Italian mountain climbers had to
conquer on Mt. McKinley’s south
face.
That they stood off the elements
and scaled the peak over a here
tofore unclimbed route is a class
ic example in determination.
Gian Canali, who with climb
ing mates Romano Perego and
Luigi Arroldi now lies in Provi
dence Hospital suffering from
frostbite, said, through an inter
preter, that the struggle up the
nearly-vertical wall was tougher
than any climbing the experienced
Italians had in the Alps.
Others in the party who fared
better physically were the party
leader Riccardo Cassin, Luigi Alip
pi and Annibale Zucchi.
On McKinley the climbers
fought the mountain for 13 days
on the ascent, with only three of
those days being adequate for
any sustained climbing. Count
ing the descent, they were away
from the relative comfort of their
base camp for almost three weeks.
They gained only 500 meters
vertically (about 1,600 feet) in
the first five days of ascending
the south face.
“We had to use every artificial
means for climbing known. We
had to battle ice and snow crests,
plus the weather and wind. The
latter part of the climb was very
difficult, but it was easier than
the first,” Canali said.
The party had virtually no food
from the time it left Camp 3,
around 18,000 feet until it scaled
the summit and returned to the
base camp at about 11,000 feet,
Canali said. This part of the
journey took some five to six
days, with the climbers huddled
in two tiny tents at Camp 3 while
a blizzard raged for 30 hours
during their descent.
For Canali the climb and de
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scent became a double agony. His
feet were frostbitten long before
he reached the top. “I had to
fight not only to get to the sum
mit, but to keep movement in
my feet,” he added.
He said later that his feet felt
as if a hot candle were being held
to them constantly. He said his
boots had shrunk due to wetness
and the cold.
After all their struggles to reach
the top of the peak, what did
they do and what could they see
at the summit?
“The winds,” Canali said, cover
ing his face with his hands to
illustrate his point,” was horrible.
The temperature was 31 degrees
below zero.
The climbers spent no more
than 15 minutes on top, not even
taking pictures, then set off down
the same difficult route.
Once the climbers had struggled
back to their base camp, thawed
out supplies to get something
edible and recovered a bit from
the strain on the slopes, they
started to move Canali toward
their scheduled rendezvous with
bush pilot Don Shelton by tow
ing him in a piece of canvas.
After three or four hours of
this, they were spotted by Shel
don, who landed on the mountain
at the 10,000-foot mark and flew
Canali back to Anchorage.
Wednesday, wrapped in white,
sterile sheets, Canali, Perego and
Arroldi had only their beards and
frostbite to mark them as men of
the mountain.
It was Henry David Thoreau
who observed, “Man is rich in
proportion to the number of
things which he can afford to let
alone.”
You Are Always Welcome at The
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10:00 a.m. Sunday School
11:00 a.m. Worship Service
7:00 p.m. Evening Worship
• WEDNESDAY
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Prayer Meeting.
• FRIDAY
4:00 p.m. Boys and Girls
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Rev. Bob Leight — Missionary Pastor
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11
Thousands of U.S.
Youths Take Notice
Of “Classification Cards”
Hundreds of thousands of small
cards Thursday were taken from
desk drawers and the hidden re
cesses of wallets where they had
lain unnoticed for months—even
years.
President Kennedy asked Wed
nesday for more personnel in the
armed forces, and overnight the
most closely scrutinized card in
the nation became the “notice of
classification” issued by the Se
letive Service System.
Telephones calls began to flood
the switchboards of draft boards
in every state, county, city and
hamlet.
The American male wanted to
know just where he stood in the
President’s plans to beef up the
armed forces.
Thousands of others, apparent
ly resigned to their 1-A classifi
cation, sought out the armed
forces recruiting centers. They
wanted to know what was being
offered to the enlistee.
Civil Defense headquarters
across the country were deluged
with calls from citizens wanting
to know what precautions they
could take to avert the devasta
tion of an enemy air attack.
IN THE SUPERIOR COURT
OF THE STATE OF ALASKA
SECOND JUDICIAL DISTRICT
NO. 1098
NOTICE OF HEARING ON FINAL
REPORT AN ACCOUNT AND
DETERMINATION OF INHERITANCE
IN THE MATTER OF THE ESTATE
OF
AARNOUT CASTEL, Deceased
NOTICE IS HEREBY GIVEN that
Aarnout Castel, Jr., of Nome, Alaska,
Executor With Will Annexed herein, has
filed his Final Report and Account, and
that the 5th day of September, 1961,
at the hour of 2:00 p. m. of said day, in
the above-named court, Nome, Alaska,
has by Court Order been fixed as the
time and place for a Hearing on said
Report and Account; and also, at such
time and place the Court will determine
and adjudicate the beneficiaries of this
OBJECTIONS, if any there be. to sa:d
report and account proof of heirship will
be heard at this time.
DATED this 11th day of July, 1961.
AARNOUT CASTEL, JR.
EXECUTOR W/W/A
Virgil D. Vochoska,
Atorney for Executor.
Publish July 21, 28. Aug. 4, 11, 1961.
--j
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