ENGLISH PAUPERISM.

Lamentable Condition of the Poor.—

Pnrse-Fioud Aristocrats,

[From " San Francisco Chronicle."]

The times when pjor citizens were knocked down in the streets by the carriages of the aristocrats, and left to bleed and die un hoeded ; when poor peasants were reduced to eating grass, while the nobles fed on turkey and truffles; whon to touch the person of a lord was a sacrilege, and to' address him a crime—these times, which

cnlminated in drama nearly a century ago, appear to be happening in England to-day. History, philosophy, logic, alike fail to in form us why such unnatural social phases are possible. Aro liberty and equality un attainable ? Are revolutions capable of making but a brief mark upon the body politic '! Aro there somo springs coiled up within mankind which are continually press ing against the souses of justice, of charity, of humanity ? Tho man must bo blind who does not sec in London to-day tho begin nings of a social tempest, beside which the .French Revolution will appear to have boon but a gentle gale. France was a compara tively largo country, with plenty of rotuges for tho fleeing aristocrats, and a long line of frontier, beyond which they could be secure. England is a small country, girt all around by tho sea. Tho population of Franco was all of one race and ono religion. The aris tocrats of England aro of the Norman, tho peasantry of the Saxon race ; the former aro Episcopalians, the latter atheists. Yes, there is no uso in shutting one's eyes to plain facts, however disagreeable they may appear. A UI.OOMY Hl.'Tl XX. Wretchedness and hopelessness have done their fell work in England. They have turned a God-fearing, Christian people into a nation of radicals, atheists and savages. Man always makes God alter his own image, and tho imago of man to-day in England is that of Despair. In that country poverty is no longer a misfortune ;it is a crime, and the worst oi' crimes. But recently the seventh annual supper to the criminal classes was given in Liltle Wilderness, Drury Lane. While '20 avowed and hardened criminals wore fed inside, -,OUO fainting paupers stood outside shivering in the cold and wet, their wistful eyes turned to tho windows, beyond which so much good food was being eaten, with the hope in their despairing hearts that they, too, might have the courage to become criminals, so that they might be fed. Are these unfortunates accused of laziness, of intemperance, of any physical or moral defect? Notct all; the facts are all tho other way. At a recent meeting of the London missionaries of the Established Church this question was form ally discussed, "Do you, of your own personal knowledgo, know of industrious, toraperate, prudent people whoso misfor tunes could not be charged to their own fault or folly, but merely to the lack of enough to eat ?" To this dreadful question 20 of tho '29 missionaries present replied that they did know of such people, and they backed this assertion with such an array of names and dates as leaves all doubt out of the matter. A DREADFUL CONDITION. One of them raid that it was not uncom mon for poor men, long out of work, to fall down in tho street for lack of strength, superinduced by insufficient food. The^e wero men who never drank liquor, and could not be suspected of drunkenness. In my shipbuilding report of 18(i(i I showed that, according to tho sworn evidence of the Maine shipbuilders, they found it cheaper to hire men at S.'i.oO than §2,50 per day, on account of the superior efficiency of the former. At a later dato Thomas Brassey said the same thing with reference to tho employment of British navvies on German railways. In tho faceof thesowell-a'ithenti cated opinions, the British capitalist per sists in crowding his workingman to tho vail, by monopolising the principal source of mechanical power, the coalfields of Eng land ;by permitting and encouraging the naked peasants of India and Egypt to struggle against tho products of British in dustry, and by taxing tho British labourer out of tho very implements of his drudgery. The vicar of Ticehurst, in Sussex, recently levied upon the plough horses of a tenant farmer named Tyman. This levy was not for debt or damages, but for extraordinary ecclesiastical tithes. The farmer, being a sturdy Saxon, resisted tho levy, when 10 hirelings were sent for, who threw him down, beat him unmercifully, and carried otf his working horses. This is tho sort of religion and charity and fraternity which the British Constitution offers to tho poor. I wonder if the American snob, who boasts in :« languishing way of the fox-hunts ho has enjoyed with his British cousin, is awaro of tho damage dono to the poor farm ers by this sport, and of tho unheeded com plaints which they have made concerning it. ENGLISH DESPOTISM. Those complaints are only made in an anonymous ferra and to tlio newspapers. To make them openly would be to excite tho animosity of the landlord, and this would entail worse consequences than the fox-hunts. It would bring about ruin. Tho Earl of Cork, Master of the Queen's Hounds, has more than onco, both by request and example, tried to cioso the hunting season before Eastor, when the tender shoots of tho wheat plant first appear above tho earth to promise mankind their daily bread, but in Vain. Tho aristocrats vwill not give up their noble sport for any considerations affecting tho despised churls who till the land. The consequence is that the churls are emigrating and tho farming lands are becoming deserted. In Sussex, in Lincolnshire, in Yorkshire, and other parts of England, many farms have fallen to one-third and oven one-fonrth their rental value or price thrco to five years ago. The proprietor ef one of tho largest hotels in London informed me that an entirely new phaso of hotel life had been begun. The country gentry were locking up their mansions and coming to town to live at hotols with their families, "like the Americans." The reason was that their rent? had fallen below tho point at which they could maintain their accustomed state. It was this fact, m®re than the un wonted influx of transatlantic tourists, which accounted for the rise of so many great hotols, which but a few years ago were dingy inns, A TALK WITH A LANDLORD. In conversing with one of these English absenteo landlords he confirmed what the hotelkeeper had told me, and added that in some parts of England tho beggars and tramps had become so numerous as to en gender a fear, at least on the part of the female members of his family, that " some thing might happen, you know." The re spectable residents of Sydenham and Forest Hill, within seven miles of the metropolis, had recently remonstrated with tho magis trates of the Greenwich Police Court for their leniency to tho poor. Instead of send ing beggars to prison they had merely cau tioned them, and the result was that the neighbourhood was infested with mendi

cants and "the police were paralysed." The line of distinction in England between the happy and miserable is not so much aristocracy as wealth. The crime of the French people was that thoy were not noble. The panderers at court were not rich, but they were noble, and henco thoy wero pro vided for by tho Crown. The crime of the English people is not so much immobility as poverty. Sir Harry Horatio Wraxhall was a baronet, but he was poor, and so last year ho died in St. Savior's Workhouse, South wark. There is said to be another titled pauper in St. Olavo's Workhouse, South wark, but I did not learn his name. The nobility of thoso paupers did not save them. As for "paupers of the middle class of mixed Norman and Saxon blood, their name is legion.

(.'itOWDKD I'IiISONN,

' Not only aro the workhouses lilled with them, the debtors' prison is crowded. Any judgment debtor who has had the means to pay his debt since the date of his judgment and owing under 1 .">(), may bo committed to prison for six weeks. Under this provi sion of law fyl-14 were last year sent to gaol in England. To what oxtromc lengths poverty has gone in that country it is vi ill - cult to describe, except by examples. The food of tho poor now includes the oll'al of animals, the most disgusting substances, rotten eggs, decayed vegetables, the leav ings of sculleries cooked over, tho jotsam of the streets, oven old rags, perhaps saturated with disease. In a recent analysis of colleen sold to the poor they were found to be adulterated with carrots, parsnips, Venetian red, acorns, sawdust, charred rags, rope-yarn, baked horses' hearts and common dirt. Mot everybody has the means to pay 10s down, and incur the risk of having to pay three or four pounds more in costs, in order to test the sixpenny worth of collee which they may have purchased. At least one Cabinet Minister has laid down the axiom that " adultera tion is a species ol competition," and political economy of this sort is stronger in ; England than either the statutes against adulteration or the plainest teachings of the senses. The habitations of the poor are almost too hideous to describe. In the case Ethel Mercer, the infant child of a carpentor at '24, Stewart Square, Chelsea, who, according to the medical testimony, died from overcrowding, it, was shown that six porsons slept in a room only 10 x 8 feet. The rent of this human pig-sty was .'is per week, and the noble landlord made '-' per cent, a month profit and lived in the West End. OVKIW'KOWI'ISCi. It was also stated that scve-al hundred deaths occur annually in London from over crowding. Nor ace these wretched hnbitu tions confined to London, or even to tho cities. While examining the Aldriggan tin mine near St. Anatoli, Cornwall, 1 found that the foreman of the mine lived with 10 othor porsons, his grown-up sons and daughters, all in ono room, where thoy ate, drank, slept, and performed all the ollices of life ; cause, poverty. This was a sober, in dustrious man. His wages were about f>o cents a day. In tho Black country men and women live togother, separate, mate with other men and women, and all without the colour of law or the faintest show of for mality. Many a young woman ha s b cen sold as a paramour to some brutalized peasant or workman for a pot of beer; price, - ponce. '1 here was a late case at Ilalesowcu, where a woman, after being married 'J'J years, was sold for a pot of beer : but this is not the worst, nor is it con lined to the Black country. In London there are thousands of young girls whose one hope and wish and pros pect of living is to be permitted to walk tho streets, a favour only accorded to those who aro willing to pay for the privilege. One of the worst cases of overcrowding was that of .John llawes, the scene-shifter, who died in Wyck-streot, Westminster. Six or eight persons slept in the samo room, and when the wretched sec 10-shiftor died and a post mortem was held, the body had to be cut open in the o:ie room which theso un fortunates shared in common. Not only this but tho bute! 'Ed corpse remained in tho room for a wet! . the living occupants, both male and fomaU\ described as respect able people, being obliged to remain there also, because "thopencil had no mortuary." discjustisi: scknes. Dr. Crcswoll Hewitt, who made the post mortem, doseribed the sight and odour as disgusting and insufferable, and it was only after repeated remonstrances from the physician and the deceased man's mother-in law that tho magistrate gave an order to remove the corpse. Some people, ignorant of tho fact that it has become almost a privilege to enter a British workhouse, may wonder why the unfortunate poor do not repair to that eleemosynary heaven. Per haps William Mitchell's case may enlighten them. That heinous monster was recently charged by Leonard Burke, Superintend ent of the casual ward at St. George's Workhouse, with endeavouring to ob tain a night's lodging in tho work house under false pretences ! Mr Burke swore that when tho prisoner applied for a lodging lie was asked if he had any mouey, to which ho replied, "No.'1 Upon searching him three half-pence were found These we.ro to pay for mending tho shoes, ho said ; but Ml' Slade, the upright magistrate, shut the fellow up and sentenced him to a month's hard labour. Not only is it a penal offence for the poor to sleep upon false pretences, but it is not oven permitted for them to die in a public place. \ sad cask. A poor woman akso had been confined for thirteen wooks in a public hospital, and turned out when barely convalescent, and ordered to find a living amidst a hundred thousand other struggling and despairing paupers. Of course she failed. A living! What could she do? Whom could fho serve? She had hardly strength enough to totter from ono doorstep to anothor. She wanted to die and lay down in tho street, hoping never to be disturbed again. A policeman shook her up and told her to go to the neighbouring workhouse. Uponapplying there for relief or permission to lie down and dio, she was told to apply in the parish where she had slept the preceding night, but, as sho had slept on a doorstep for throe nights, she did not know where to go. If she could only die, she said, sho would bo happy A policeman was ordered to march her off, and he took her before Mr Newton, tho magistrate, who sent her to Bow-street, and there, under the shadow of Newgate, the poor wretch broathed her last, before the law had a chance to inarch her oft', again. How long can such a state of affairs last ? is a question I have often asked my self as I wandered about London. Thore are more than enough paupers in London to take the place by storm, but there is not the faintest sign of disaffection among them. There is no Jacquerie in England. The people are thoroughly loyal to the Govern ment, and worship tho very shoestrings of the nobles. Thoy come into the world and then step up in their turn to be exterminated by hunger and privation as promptly, as meekly, as unresistingly as cattle walk into the shambles to be slaughtered. They have so little spirit that to the misery to which they are subjected, there is added a cruel disdain. I could adduce many instances of this contempt, but enough for the present. Alfa Del Mar, '

THE GREAT DIAMOND MINK OF SOUTH AFRICA.

In his chatty volume, "Kennedy at tho Capo," Mr David Kennedy, junior, gives the following description of tho great diamond mine of Kimberloy :—

" We made it our linrt business to go and sec tlio world-famous mine, only a low minutes' walk from the hotel ; for the town is built close to the edge of the mine. You come to the end of a street, and see a slight riso—all that remains of the old Colosberg "koppie." A few stops further, ami you stand on the clear-cut brink of the biggest hole that man has over dug. A vast crater yawns at your .feet. It is shaped like a bowl, has sloping sides of light-coloured : rock, stretching down to the blue diamond it'oi'OUß soil at tin; bottom. Such is the ex panse of tho mine that in the first hasty glance you may actually foil to note for a few moments that it is alive with human beings : but there aro more men down there than would people half a dozen villages. You see thousands of blacks working in tho claims at the botcom, anil dotted liko ants on the sides. You see every nook and corner, every man in the mine, every one of the many interests that centre hero, all displayed at onco. The claims lio clearly spread out beneath you like a map—an expanse of small blocks, which do not look to be thirty feet square. These present great irregularities, as some of tho claims aro boing worked faster than others. If a claim stands idle, the adjoining workers, digging down on either side, loavo it stand ing like a square tower: but there is a law which compels a man to work if his claim is becoming dangerous to those around him. You 800 tho blacks busily toiling round sheer day battlements at one place, shovelling on tlie edge of steep precipices here, climbing up naked pillars of earth there, tho column being marked with tiny holes, tho only foothold of the daring worker. Square pools of water gloain in several places, and walls of dark bluo clay oiWh and re-cross the wholo bed of 'tho mine. Round the margin of this deep bowl circles a fringe of steam machinery, working the buckets that run up and down on wires, and convey the " blue," a« the diuinoudiforoiw soil is called, to the surface. These wires con ven'o from all sides intw the bottom of the mine. They are not very large, but very numerous. They stand out like threads of silver when struck by tho sun's rays ; but in some lights, or when viewed against the darker sido of tho mine, aro not visible at all. The mingled hum uf voices rising from the seething mass of labour below, tho whining of the many buckets Hying through tho air, the .Kolian murmur of tho wind playing over the web of wires, the far and near rumble of vehicles running round the edire of the mine -aro evory whit as wonderful to tho ear as the sight is strange to the eye. At ono place there has been a shaft sunk by Baring, Gould, and Co., so as to do away with an aerial tramway ; and at another, a tramway has been run down through a narrow cleft, cut deeply into tho lip of the mine, in order to diminish the gradient. Once wo saw the mine late in tho after noon, when the men were leaving work. The spectacle was extraordinary. Out from tho depths of tho mine tho Kaffirs woro swarming like bees from a disturbed hive. Some woro crawling up the steep slopes : Homo skipping ulonii narrow tracks, where, from our distant standpoint, we could see no foothold; somo jumping from ledge to ledge ; hole and there a couple of them coming up in a buckot, with other Katlirs hanging on to the bottom of it by the runners, Hying through tho air on such a lengthy journoy that you could scarcely belfevo a man could suspend himself by tho arms so long. On all sides the Katlirs wero scrambling up to tho surface—laughing, shouting, and singing, as merry as boys re leased from school. A dense continuous tilo of Katlirs was all tho time walking up the tramway : Kallirs half-clad, Katlirs in old great-coats, Katlirs in jackets mado out of "-woks, Katlirs in ahirte, Kaffirs in corduroy. Large numbers of them, too, had on old soldiers' coats, which generally showed up in bright red specks all over the workings. As the men were dispersing, tho blasting operations commenced. A bell is supposed to ring as the signal for tho tiring : but on this occasion several shots were tired before the warning rang out, and before the mine had been emptied of its dusky labourers. The charges arc lit by ono or two of the " boys " bolonging to tlio different claims, while the proprietors look clown from tho brink. One claim owner standing near us wished he had an opera-glass, so that ho could sec if his Kattir was lighting the fuse properly. Every few moments a quick pull of smoko burst from the Moor of the mine, followed by a dull rumbling sound, and an immense mass of rock would heave slowly over with 0 grinding crash. When a more than usually good shot went oft", tho Kaflirs clapped their hands and hurrahed, the mine echoing and re-echoing with their shouts. Frequently the hard clay would ily up viciously, and overybody ducked their heads behind tho edge,though there seemed little fear of fragments reaching us at .such an elevation. It was most oxciting to see two or throe blasts simultaneously—the whole cratcr-liko mine seeming in volcanic convulsion, and tho Kaffir stragglers, in a state of scare, leaping behind clay walls, running into holes, or dashing excitedly up the sides. 'Wo overheard a claim-owner ro mark, rubbing his hands gleofully as he saw the Hying pieces of rock : "Aha ! that shot has landed a rich lump on my claim !" In a fow minutes, tho huge basin, so latoly a scene of busy life, was as silent as an open grave. Soon the sunlight faded away from the opposite brink, and tho dark blue of twilight gradually settled down in the bottom of the mino.

Ono look at tho mine is not sufficient for anyone to form an idea of it, nor will any one ever be satisfied with one visit. It exercises a continual fascination, and ono must go at least onco a day and gaze down into tho wonderful abyss. About as full a conception of its magnitude that you can have is obtained from seeing the immense hills of sifted sand that stretch from tho mouth of tho hole. You begiii to realise that for eight years from 8,000 to 10,0' tO men have been engaged in excavating that wondrous Colesberg "koppio." Little did anyone dream, a fow years ago, that that gently swelling hill, then unknown and un named, rising in the midst, of a dreary barren country, was soon to be heard of in all ends of tho earth. " All kindreds, and nations, and tribes " flocked to the magic ground. Tho hill disappeared as if by en chantment, as one might chip an egg, or uncover a pie, previous to scooping it out. The ground was marked off into 700 plots. Twelve roadways, each fifteen feet wide, wero left across the "koppio." In those days no less than 30,000 men, white and black, with every description of primitive appliance, were working at once. As they dug, vast trenches began to form on each side of the roadways, which soon stood up in perilous isolation —now and then a cart and horse, or dray and bullocks, falling over into the workings. Great landslips took place and killed many of the diggers. Then these roadways were removed, and the koppie transformed into a wide-stretching

basin, which by degrees deepened into the present enormous crater. Tho mino is ;)00 feet doop, a quarter of a mile wide, and three-quarters of a mile in circumference, occupying about twelve acres. It has been assessed at t1,500,000. Tho Dutch farm on which it .stands was bought originally for £0,000, but could not be purchased now for £4,000,000. The diainoni'ifcrous "blue" is a hard clay, so hard that it has to bo picked, and quarried, and blasted liko rock, The mine is a vast matrix, in which this geological accident of "bluo" lies embedded. The surrounding rook, in which no diamonds are found, is called the " reef." As the mining opera tions proceed, this reef has continually to be removed,"so as to lay bare the precious "blue." This alone costs annually £100,000. All the claims are taxed for this, a claim valued at i.'4,0()0 paying as its share £240 a-year. The " blue," when it has been brought to the surface, is carted off to tho ground of the | roprietor. Here it is spread out for two or three weeks, to dessicate by exposure and the action of rain. If there be no rain, then the stuff has to be watered and raked in tho puddling-troughs. Tho stones all fall to tho bottom, and with them, of course, the diamonds, which aro the heaviest stones of all. We once saw two gentlemen engaged in turning over the dark, washed gravel, which is wet so as to display any stray gem that may turn up. During the three minutes to which our visit extended, tho men had found a dia mond each. Diamond-sifting, like love making, is a dull business to an uninterested party."

COLONEL GORDON IN EGYPT.

News From tho Scat of War

(I'llOM OIK OWN UOKItKHIHINUKNT.)

Nkws from Egypt has for the last ten days been principally of a dry, uninteresting kind not specially worth detailing at length. 1 append a few of the host "plums" from the pie. My next: budget- is sure to be far more exciting. General Gordon arrived at Khartoum on Monday. In accordance with his orders, Colonel de Coctlogon sent to the tribes conciliatory circulars, remitting half the taxation. Tho houses in Khartoum were previously posted with proclamations from Gordon Pasha proclaiming the Mahdi Sultan of Kordofan, remitting one-half tho ! taxes, and permitting the trading in slaves to be Carried on. These proclamations gave tho greatest satisfaction, ami Gordon I'asha received quite an ovation. Thousands ' of people crowded to kiss his hands and feet, and calling him the "Sultan of tho ' Soudan." His speech was received with enthusiasm. Jle said :" 1 come without 1 soldiers, but with God on my side to redress ' the evils of the Soudan. I will not tight 1 with any weapons but justice 'J here shall be no more Bashi Bazouks." It is now ' believed that Gordon will relieve the Bahr Gazelle garrisons without tiring a shot. ; Since they heard that ho was coming, the aspect of the people has so changed that thore aie no longer any fears of disturb ' ances in Khartoum. Thoy say that he is giving them even more than the Mahdi could give. A I'OI'VI.AK DUNKIRK, Sonic remarkable scenes are reported to have taken place at Khartoum in connec ' tioH with the arrival thoro of General Gordon. His proclamation had proceded him, and immediately on his arrival he 1 summoned the otticials, thus preparing the ' people for some salutary changes. He next held a levee at tho Mudirieli—the entire 1 population, even the poorest Arab,being ad ' niittcd. On his way between the Mudirieh and the palaco, about 1,000 persons pressed forward kissing his hands and feet, and ; calling him "Sultan," "Father," and ' "Saviour of Kordofan."' General Gordon and Colonel Stewart at once opened offices 1 in the palace, giving to everyone with a grievance admittance, and a careful hear ing. The Government books, recording from time immemorial the outstanding debts of the overtaxed people, were publicly burnt in front of the palace. The kour bashes, whips, and implements for adminis tering the bastinado from Government House were all placed on the blazing pile. Tho evidence of debts and the emblems of oppression perished together. In tho after noon General (iordon created a council of the local notables, all Arabs. Then he visited the hospital and arsenal. A DEN Of MISERY. With Colonel Stewart, Coetlogon I'asha, and the English consul, he visitod the prison, and found it to be a dreadful den of misery. Two hundred wretches loaded with chains lay there. They were of all ages, boys and old men, some having nevor been tried, somo having been proved innocent, but forgotten for over six months, somo arrestei on suspicion and de tained thoro more than three years, many merely prisoner? of war, and one a woman who had spent tiftoen years in the prison for a crime committed when *he wax a ccirl. Oeneral Gordon at once commenced to demolish this bastile. All the prisoners will be briefly examined, and, if it be advisable, set at liborty. Before it was dark scores of wretches had had their chains struck off, and on Tuesday Colonel Stewart was continuing the work. On Monday night the town was in a blaze of illumination, the bazaar being hung with cloth and coloured lamps, and the private houses beau tifully decorated, Thero was even a fine display of fireworks by the negro population, who indulged in great rojoicings till mid night. The people aro devoted to General Gordon, whoso design is tosavothe garrison and for ever leave the Soudan—as perforce it must be left—to tho Soudanese. TIIK ONLY UOl/RSE. The proclamation is hailed with delight as the only means of saving tho lives of the garrison. The Mahdi is proclaimed ruler of Kordofan, it is truo ; but he is already its virtual ruler, and the official recognition of the fact will prevent his advance upon Khartoum. The slave trado is not to bo interfered with; but the Government is already powerless to interfere with it, and the general is, therefore, only making a virtue of necessity. Half of the taxes aro remitted because the people are totally unable to pay. General Gordon is evidently determined to carry out his orders to effect the evacuation of the Soudan without risk ing the lives of another 10,000 men. The Egyptians and Europeans have the utmost confidence in him and his measures, and forsee that lie will spare the useless effusion of blood. General Gordon has appointed Afresh Bey Shilook, a negro who won the Legion of Honour under Bazaine in Mexico, commandant of the troops i-emaining at Khartoum. All the Soudanese are to stay, all the whito troops are to go to Omdurman, on the other side of the White Nile, and to be sont down tho river in detachments, with their familios, and the Europeans who wish to go. The general's conciliatory measures will keep the road perfectly open, and also keep Khartoum quiot till it has been entirely given up. I

NOTES FOR THE LADIES.

Fashions, Social Gossip, etc.

[COMI'IUSD BY OBK LoNMO.V GoiUIKSI'ON

dent]

A okeat many bull toileTiEes are compose! entirely of silk lace in .some delicate tender shade on a foundation to match.

The most fashionable combinations of colour are brown or prune velvet with a cream lace skirt, dark green with pale pink, bronze or dark bine with light blue.

Feathers are most popular for trimming all evening dresses, whether as feather fringes, feathar bands, or clusters of feathers, used, as (lowers formerly were, for draping ovorskh'ts and tunics. A charming little coiffure for young married women, for evening wear, is a rosette of velvet in the centre of which if a little plume of feathers with an aigrette. Tills is placed on the top of the head, and corresponds in colour with the toilet or its ornaments.

The redingote in dark colours, but par ticularly in bronze, is becoming very popular for indoor toilette, as it admits of a good deal of variety by changing the skirt. A bronze velvet redingote over a pink skirt is one of the prettiest costumes that can be worn.

The Balmoral is a pretty, becoming costume for young ladies. It consists of a deep-kilted or box-pleated skirt, over which are a polonaise slightly gathered on the shoulder and waistcoat front : the sleeve is high on the shoulder and full, but tight at the wrist; a full waterfall sash finishes the back.

A lady gave a dinner latoly in New York, at which these various novelties —butter dishes, plates, salt-cellars, and olive trays were all designed and painted by her own daughters.

Skirts, that is to say, short .skirts utterly without train, are mude very narrow, not much mow than two yards round. They are also cut Btraighter than usual, that is, tlio gores are less on the bias than formerly. A great novelty in ornaments are Jlowers, whother real or artificial, to which gold settings and mountings are adapted, and the hearts and dewdrops represented by precious stones, particularly diamonds. These (lowers ai'c worn on bonnets, on bodices, on skirts, and even on shoes. Rosos, forget-me-nots, pansies, lilacs, &c , are arranged in this manner, and some are made specially for fastening bonnet-strings. Lace stockings are the latest extravagance in hosiery. These copy the most delicate and intricate patterns of point, duehese, and other laces, and are to be worn over a second pair of spun-like hose, tinted a pale llesh colour. With these stockings are worn very low-out opera slippers, made of satin the same shade as the stockings, which can be bought in pink, pale blue, heliotrope black, and fawn colour.

The Langtry costume for winter wear is one of the most stylish for any winter material —velveteen is greatly in vogue this season. The skirt is trimmed with two scalloped flounces about ten inches deep ; the ovorskirt forma a deep point on each side, and the back is full draped ; the bodice is cut with scalloped waistcoat front and pleated coat back ; the sleeve in rather tight, with a little fulness on the shoulder ; the cuff and collar are scalloped to match.

Embroidered velvet capotes, shaped like an infant's christening cap, edged with a doublo rouche of gold lace or with chenille, and ornamented with a small plume of feathers in front, is the newest model that has been introduced, and is becoming when the woaror is youthful and pretty. Many capotes are made of gauged black velvet, the brim lined with coloured satin—pink, ruby, white,'or daffodil coloured. A plume of feather tips, matching the satin lining, is fastened in on the left side by a stras3 buckle, or one of the many ornamental clasps now so much employed in ornament ing chapeaux. Rosettes of narrow ribbon velvet are sometimes substituted for the feather tips.

According to theOreeks, who arereckoned to h.ave bee:i tha greatest judges of beauty, the high forehead never bore the palm. A certain conciseness carried it. A large, bare forehead gives a woman a masculine and defying look. The word affronting comec from it. Thu hnir should be brought over such a forehead as vines are trailed over a wall.— Loifjh Hunt.

Lace lichus, cither black or white, are very becoming to elderly ladies, who well know also, though they may not acknow ledge it, the excellent effect of a pretty, soft, white woollen or silk shawl draping their shoulders, and harmonising with the softened tones of hair and skin. In the choice of suitable mantles there is no diffi culty. Most of the largo mantles now made are admirably adapted for elderly ladies.

In the earliest spring, silk shots and shaded grounds predominate. The shot, or changeable silks, show two distinct coiours—porcelain-blue shot with coral, moss green with faded blue, brown with lilac, and dark blue with dull red. The now failles have a satin lustre, and are brocaded with slightly raised velvet figures; and there are chine velvet designs on shot grounds, admirably suited for dinner gowns. The velvet-figured grenadines now appear in grey and dull red shades instead of in black only.

Coiffures and caps, ivhen these are worn, are usually of small dimensions but very elegant in shape and material. Plain and figured silk gauze, the finest laces, and in fact all kinds of supple and delicate fabrics aro employed for the crowns, the trim mings consisting of chenille ornaments, flowers, feather-tips, rosettos of the nar rowest satin or velvet ribbon, and enamelled or jewelled pins anl clasps. All shapes are worn—round, oblong, or with Mary Stuart points in front, to suit the faco and appearance of the wearer. The tournure is now considered to be an indispensable accessory to the feminine toilette. Among those who dress elegantly its proportions [are not extremely volumi nous, but the great art necessary to make it appear to advantage is to alter its size according to the style of the toilette ; there fore, several tournures of different sizes and shapes are indispensablo to all ladies who dress well, or rather fashionably.

Natural (lowers are always more beautiful as dress ornaments than artificial ones, but they lack the enduring qualities of the latter. A wreath ol violets is pretty, but somewhat heavy; it fades easily, and then it is ugly. There is no flower so fashion able in the States this winter as the rose, and no bloom improves more under a skilful florist's hands. The pink rose, '•Gloirede France," is a great favourite there; the Nephetos, the new Bennet rose, the old but beautiful Bonseline, the Mermats are all affected for table and dress decorations and for hand bouquets.

Velvet being now so fashionable, it is natural that black velvet dinner dresses should be in great demand. They are not, however, made of velvet only, some other fabric is invariably introduced in addition to the trimmings of lace and beads, which are more or less costly and elaborate. A velvet dinner toilette made in vory good stylo has a long train falling in largo folds from tho waist, and a tablier of Van Dyck red satin, covered with jet bead embroidered net; the beads fall in drops and pendants, and being in constant move ment sparkle and glittor as they catch tho light.

THE AUCKLAND EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, APRIL 12, 1884

4



WANTED KNOWN! 1 11 41,, , 40 pieces of Tweed, from is. Orl. per yard. A splendid article for Boys wear worth double the money. ' . 2,500 Ladies' Newmarket Jackets, from 19s. (id.; worth Two Guineas We have a splendid line of blankets, Salvage from the Late Fire, and only wet' with water, 7s, lid. ; worth 20s. And a superior line at Us. 6d. We have about Two Thousand Pairs of Ladies' and Children's Lisle Thread Gloves, all at 4Ad ; these goods are worth from Is. Gd. to 2s. 6d per pair We have a splendid line of Settlers White Shirts, with 07' without Collars -it .'3s. J Id. ; worth 7s. (id. Wanted Buyers for 200 Men's Tweed Suits, at 255.; worth 50s. ... —^p, CANADA BUILDINGS: SASViUEL COOMBES & CO., QUEEN STREET. " ". r -; We are selling Hollockeses Linen Cloth at 2s. J Id. per dozen ; comment is needless. 1,000 Men's Over Coats, Bought a Job, from 18s. Gd.; worth double the money. We have 40 Pieces Tapestry Carpets (Salvage), at Is. lid.: but quite perfect and worth 3s. lid. TiOO Pairs of Good Tweed Trousers, at os. lid. ; worth 12s. Gd. Rescued from Wall and Cos Fire, 500 dozen of Ladies' Hose, :i pairs for Is. 4d.; worth Is. 6d. per pair. We still have a few pieces of the Dress Goods, at 2£d left; these goods are; worth Is. per yard. mm „» mi CANADA BUILDINGS, QUEEN STREET, AUCKLAND.



Land and Estate Agents. D. F. E V A N 8, ESTATE, HOUSE. AND LAND AGENT, AUCTIONEER, &c. TO CAPITALISTS AND OTHERS. FIRST-CLASS INVESTMENT IN THIS CITY FOR SALE. All that Valuable and Centrally Situated Pro perty, consisting of FREEHOLD ALLOTMENT, together with Commodious Double Shop, Store room, and 5 Rooms upstairs, built of brick on stone foundation, in first-class position, and well adapted for Solicitor's Chambers, being situated in Shortland-strect, near those handsome and extensive new premises in course of construc tion tor the Evening Star ; and also near the Post-office, banks, and those magnificent new block ot buildings (tho Arcade) now about to be erected tor the New Zealand Insurance Com pany. This is a real flrat-class investment, and well worthy the attention of capitalists. I is, A'ith out doubt, the most valuable and safest invest ment now in the Market, with undeniable pros pective value, second to none in Auckland. Full particulars from D. F. EVANS, 857 Estate Agent, Queen-street. AUCKLAND—City Property: valuable busi ness premises, situate in Shortland-street, near Hos-ottlce; grand position. (875* ARaRIMU—I73 acres, part improved, pint bush. Lot 93. Opaheke. (95 ) AVONDALE-i:2 acres splendid land, mostly in grass; a largo portion in orchard, und shelter trees: good creek. (851) AMY-STREET. ELLBR-<LIE - 2 Spleniid Allotments, having a frontage ot about 264 feet. " (841) BOMBAY—oil', acres improved farm Land very cheap. Only £30 cash, and £?0 can remain for S years. (9 8) BANKS'S COUNTY—3.SOO acres of good forest land. Abundance of puriri, kauri, totara, and other timber. About 3 miles from Deepwater Creek. BABYLON—A very nice little Farm of 100 acres; new house of 7 rooms, cowshed, stockyard, pigsty, &c.; 2 good grass pad docks. The land on this farm is really good, and can confidently be recommended as a very desirable little homestead. (1050) CHlTRCH-STRnET-Villaßesidenceofsroon)s. fitted with cupboards, dresser register grate, oven, &c: good well and tank, well-stocked garden. Price. £380. (729) CO.MMERCIAi. ROAD, off Great North '-cad —SI acres; 2 acres paling fenced and plan co with 300 fruit trees. Very cheap. (838) COMMERCIAL KOAD, off Great North Ko-<d —New Verandah Cottage of 5 Rooms, Regis tered Grate, Cupboards, &c. Allotment 94 z 150. £400. (728) DAIRY tLAT—2SS acres good Land, part, vol canic. bush, nice homestead of 4 rooma Price. 32- 6d ptr acre (9?) DEVON PORT — Bench Road: 4 Dwelling houses ; 3 let at £60 etich, and one at £60. Firat-class investment and very cheap. (839) EDWItf-STREET, ROCKY NOOK—Very nice lltlle Coltaß.) of 5 rooms : goo' volcunic al lotment. Price, only £250. EPSOM-* ilia Rt-i-ideuee and Grounds Also, • splendid Building Al otments, near real dence of E Hesketh, Esq. ! 75) ELLERSLIE-115 tcres Volcinio Soil; good road frontage, near Racecourse. (954) ELLERSLIK (near Harp ot Erin)—6-roomed House, Outbuildings; every convenience; about IV acres on main road, near Railway Station." £G25. (963) ELLIiRSLIE (on Panmuro Road) — Freehold Building Allotment, ornamental trees beautiful situation for building, main road; Land 198x198 feet, £400. 110701 FERNLEIGH-STREET—3 Verandah Cottages of 3, 1, and 5 rooms respectively. In good order. City water laid in. Price, for the three. £SGO. A good investment. (1102) FRANKLIN ROAD—Two Good Villa Resi dences, almost new—one of C rooms and the other of 5; gas and water. Allotments 33 x 160 each: magnificent view of harbour. Price, only £1,100. (1069) GRKAT SOUTH ROAD— i acres and 6-roouied House and outbuildings on the main road n-ar Ellerslie Station Price, t625 (!'63) GEORGE AND WILLIAM STREETS, PON'- SONBY—Brick House of four rooms and ' scullery, outhouse, &c; allotment. 33 x 132; £400. GREAT NORTH ROAD-Abont 5 miles from Auckland —A naw and well-finished House of 6 rooms, stable, &c, and 3 anrcs splendid land, in cultivation: bounded by a grand Btream of water; more laud if required. (319) GLENBURN, PONSONBY—Throe magnificent Sites for Marine Villa Residences. Price for the three, £650. Superb view of Queen street Wharf, North Shore and Harbour. (1085) HO WICK—Good Cottage of 8 rooms and 2 acres land well fenced. Good well. Price £200. (1110) JOHN-STREET — First-class Building Allot ment, quite new, and good view. Price, 30s per foot. (10G7) LEAMINGTON ROAD—New Villa Residence of 4 large rooms and scullery, American stove, register grate,; allotment, 50 x. 100. Price, £27u; £150 can remain on mortgage. 11106) MANGARE—One of the best little Grazing Farms in the p.ovince of Auckland (64ii MONTAGUR-STRKET, NEWTON-New Six roomed Verandah Cottage, fitted with register grates, colonial oven, cupboards, &c. Price £!MI. (71!)) MOUNT EDEN ROAD-Very nice Villa Resi dence oJ 7 rooms; tank, outhouses, good gardon; allotment, 49J x 198; best part of Mount Eden Road. " (101S) MELFORD-STREET-Two good Villa Sites. each 50 x 150. Price, 50s and 55s per foot. (1009)



NELSON AND WILLIAM STREETS-Houss of 4 rooms and scullery, corner of Neftou street; water laid on, asphalt yard; allot ment 45x66. Price, only WOO. House ad joining tlio above, 5 rooms, gas, water, &c,; ; allotment 33 x 45. Price, £350. (10531 '" NEW A! AKKKT.-New-street: New Verandah Honae of 5 rooma; good well, tank. So n-c- garden: mlotment 18 x 120. Price only *300. (819 NELSO.V-S REKT, CITY.-A. very nice and commodious Hou-e of 8 rooms, having s grand view of harbour Price. £650 (9791 PAPAKUK , VALLEY - 4211 acres good: alluvial land ; partly fenced, and a postlon improved; a splendid creek tbronjh the property; übout 3 miles from Railway Station. (8 2| ' POKitNU '89 acres Vo'canio Land, nearly all' level 2C acres cleared and in good kw and fenced- Price : 2 per acre: a bargain. (94);'s POiENO-Nice Little Farm ot 21 acres 10 > cropa, glass, &<.<. ; good five rooraert Cottage and outhouses, which, with 1 enwa, dairy utensils. &c, &c, is vow offered for £300; xiiiintejustntPokeno Station. (TO RICHMOND ROAD — Two nicely-finished Houses o£ 0 rooms each, fitted with every ■ convenience. Let well. Price, for the two, ■ £700 ;or would be sold separately. (1103) ; RAM a RAMA 16U acres good mixed La"d a shot distance from Drury. Cheap, at £310a per acre. (J64) :,::,;. RAZORBACK—IB Acres Good Land, 26 norm i in grass; Cottage of three rooms, cow-shed, piggery, &c; never-fiiling supply of water. Price, only £250. (6M ; ' RYLE-STREET-Pretty Verandah Villa of 5,,;: rooms, &o.; allotment GG x 120; a very. ,-.i desirable residence. (1039) ! RICHMOND KOAD-2 good Building Allot*; ments; quite level; 40xU9each; good view.' ' ' Must be sold. (1046) 1 ST. MvliY'S KOAD corner ot Dublin-BtroeE-jii:. House of 5 rooms and scullery and 2 rooms li j detanhci: ga^. tanks, lie Pi ice «585 (734) i! I | TAMAKI EAST-Snug li<:tle Farm of Macros.*!! | ; Good House of 5 rooms, and usual out-:,\ ! buildings; all new; stock, &c. Price, only I £480. (1080) TE PAPA-4S acres good arable Land. Price, ■ only 15a per acre. (1107) ; VII- WRO JANDTHETERRVCE. MOUNT: i. DE <—A Jfirat class Residence of 7 rooms, complete with every convenience well laid out group ds abou'. I acre fruit and flower garden. M«gnificent view (945) k: VIKW ROAD MOUNT KDEN-5 minutes'* i from Ruilwny Station — A new 6-momed.-, : Two-story Building, verandahs, bath-roonjj 5,, water laid in f uit trees and vegetaba; earden vo^aniomoaM. Price. «430. (94) : VIEW AVENUE, MOUNT EDEN-Now Villa Residence of 5 rooms, and outbuild ings; scoria soil, and good position. Oalyj! £301). WAITANGI BLOCK, MAKARAU-60 acresof ■ land, supposed to contain valuable buah..;'■ Price, £00. (1028) s, , WHATAWHATA-Waipa River-BeauUfuly Homestead of 200 Acres; house, stables, sheds, and outhouses ; splendid chary grovo; steamer stops at landing four timesy.; I a week; plenty of wood and water; §ood; ■: • run for cattle. (1055) T i WARK.W iRTH-Old Established Boa ding- ~ I hove Bußlness for sale. First-clasa oppor- i tuuity toseeue a really good paying con cern. Price only £500. WHA.NGAREI —12> acres Improved Landßf; small piece kauri bush; "Lot 51, Tanraroa,-.' . 0511 WH "G vRBI— Improved Farm of. 143 aons at Mangapai; 1 i acres jn grass, and 6 toj:; orchard; dwelling house. Cheap, £6«0 f WHANG RHI H «*D -Paraaßay -6iaores. i part in grass and kanri; homestead farm; I good road. Price, £22 (961 WHiT>WH TA.-Waipa Rivor-IM acr»T Improved Farm; fir3t-oiass residence; good i orchard; charming property Price,* WO. V (9591 D. P. EVAN S, m HOUSE, LAND, AND ESTATE AGENT, AUCTIONEER, &c Land Mart— Queen-street, next Bank op australasia. IpUBLIC NOTICE, Notice is heruby given that the Waitakerei West Highway Road Board intend to stop part of the Road leading from Mound Springs by Spring Hill to Waivlri. The Road proposcdw be stopped adjoins Allotment No. 4, Waitakerei Wost, and is immediately opposite the houM and premises of John Smyth. The plans 01 tho proposed alterations are on view at ttil: Office of the Board, Mr W. Buchanan's resi-i dence, Waitakerei Railway Station. JNO. SMYTH. m Chairman Waitakerei West Highway Boaw j /GOODWIN'S ELEPHANT BEAffl) \JT BAKING POWDER. ONE TRIAL WILL PROVE ITS SUPEBIORnT. pOODWIN'S RAKING pOWDBB. -OaIvING * OWDBR, ; GOVERNMENT ANALYST'S REPORT. Colonial Laboratory, August 8, JBBI : Mr. GOODWIN: Dear Sir,—Having made a very oareW analysis of your Baking Powder, I find it to » a very superior article, containing nothing"^, any way deleterious to health. I nave,theffrl fore, much pleasure in giving itmy certificate^ J. M. TUNNY, Colonial Analyst. Of all Storekeepers, in Tins Is 6d asp 3a &> Manufactured by GOODWIN & CO., ONEHUNGA.