THE CRUISE OF THE WAIRARAPA

JBsr Ocii Special Cokkksi-osdest.]

(Continued from "Star" of Jt'.lu 1.)

The Opposition to tho Government.—

A Malcontent Version.

Having given tho Hon. Mr Thuraton's explanation of the discontent with tho Government, it is only fair that I should stato the other side. In doing this, it will savo space and prevent repe tition to condense into one narrative the statements of several plant-cm and jour nalists I mot in tho group. On tho labour question, they gay that "Mi/ Tlmraton's assertion that there r.ru ;j,ooi> Fijian* in i European employment is perfectly Vulicu- Itms ; that there have nevev been more than 3,200, and they doubt if there is anything Hike that number nt tho present moment./ The Govonnnont regulations, for tho en gagement of labour have ths oi'toct of con firming the communal habit of the Fijian, who has no hoj»? tif raising himself above tho if-vul of hi s ancestors, Before an employer can obtain tho! services of a native, ho must gat the consent of threo village .•u<tl>on(ies, and objections are continually raised ; tho native is so tied to his trilio that it i<- use lees for him to attempt to emancipate him self ; his earnings f.ill into the common lot, and ho may himself be culled back to the I village at the will of his chief, and nwaiust I his own wish. These, regulations are so intricate that settlers arc deterred front em ploying Fijians by the fear of being left in the lurch at a critical moraertt, or "brought into tho Court for infringement of tho Tio vernmont conditions of service. A Fijian cannot work where lie likes, ho ■cannot spend his money as ho likes; every contract made by him is void unless it receives the Government assent. Hois fastened up in the bonds of a hopeless slavery, and while there are thousands of natives ready to enter into service who ■would bo benotitted by work, and while the planters aro ruined for want of labour, tho paternal care of the Government prevents the two from being brought into contact, Tho restrictions placed on labour vessels by a youug and inexperienced ollicer has also prevented ship-owners from engaging in tho trade, and raised tho price of all clas?oo of labour. As to the coolio labour, it scorns to bo admitted that the new regulation for the importation of coolies to bo supplied to the planters on deferred payments is a liberal measure, and will provo of great service to small planters who aro on tho verge of ruin. It is also recognised that the Government have dono much good in tho improTomont of tho native villages by compelling tlicir removal from low lying placos to higher elevations, and by tho rigid suppression of tho liquor traffic. In other respects, tho Fijian is non-pro groasive. Ho dibbles with a stick as did his ancestors, instead of availing himself of tho spado and other modern agricultural im plements, and his houses are no botter than j woro those of his fathers. Those, however, j have always been very good, and woll ad apted to the climate. The native houses in Fiji aro superior in comfort to the cabins commonly seen in Ireland.

Relative to tho cotl'eo disease, tho idea that tho increase in export is duo to measures inaugurated by the Government for tho extirpation of tho leaf diseaso i.s ridiculed. Almost the only instance of an attempt being made in this direction was when the Government took over Mr Parr's plantation and ruined it, for which tho owner, after ineffectual efforts to get com pensation, sued them, and obtained from an adverse judge a verdict for £2,000 damages. Tho disease disappeared of itsolf, or where it is still prevalent does not prevent the gathering of crops. This statement I find confirmed by tho experience of the Mango Island Company, which will be narrated further en. •

Finally, the administrative abilities of Mr Thurston and Dr. Macgrogor are admitted by tho bitterest opponents of tho Govern ment. It is believed that if these officers wore not hampered by the Governor, a better feeling would soon prevail in Fiji. Already, it is said, an improvement lias been notice able during Governor dcs Vconx'a absence in Australia on sick leave, and the time of his final departure from Fiji is fondly anticipated. A letter, by Go vernor dcs Voanx published in the Sydney "Telegraph" has aroused a good deal of indignation. Ho describes the immigration system of tho colony as infamous, anil yet in tho official report by the Immigration Officer, the absence of offonces is specially noticed, and eren Sir Arthur Gordon, in tho report of ths Western Pacific Commis sion, states that the labour trado of Fiji is now carried on under conditions that pre-

vent abuse;,

The Agitation for Annexation.

Politically, tho agitation for annexa tion to ono of tho neighbouring colo nies has only been started by tho settlers for the purpose of attracting attention to their case abroadandsecuring some changes. They know that annexation will not be granted; nor do thoy really desire it. Feeling the onormous minority in which the European population is placed, thoy admit that a representative parliament is neither desirable nor possible. A well governed Crown colony is recognised as tho best form of Government for Fiji in its present sfcago of dovelopment, provided that tho settlers -were granted representation by making the non-otlicial members 'of tho Legislative Council elective instead of nominative. Jn distributing the representa tion, not more than one member would have to bo given to each of the towns, and tho other four should be elected by the agri cultural districts. This concession would, I am convinced, satisfy the planters ; privi leges of the same kind have recently been conferred upon Jamaica, and thore is no good reason why the planters of Fiji, who nre mostly men of superior intelligence, 6hould be treated with greater distrust.

Tavluna Ride Through a Sugar Planto-

Our reckoning of the succession of time is so dependent upon the regular order of our daily duties thai when one breaks away from his ordinary environments, either by an excursion into tho country or to sea, it is a pnazle to keep, tho run of days and dates. To determine the day of the week is a constant and ever-recurring discussion at the breakfast table On tho morning after the Fijian " At Howe," and when the Wairarapa was under full steam for Taviuna, we engaged in this investiga tion, and settled the date as Friday, the 13th of June. Wo had arrived in Levuka at noon on Wednesday. Tho run to Tavi nna carried us past Übatiki, abeam at S in the morning, and by 10.30 we wero off the west end of Kora, with a pleasant S.E. wind which tempered the heat. In the cabins the thormomoter registered SOdegs., but on deck this was not felt to bo disa greeably warm. At 1.80 the anchor was dropped off Vuna Point, in 15 fathoms, varying to 45 fathoms. Our expectations, netted Tby reports of tho fertility of Tayi- So <" The Garden of Fiji") wero not dis appointed by the general aspect of the land On a flat, backed by a line of hills, Son the left to a height of 2,500 feet theeyewanderedoveran unbroken surface of wavy,greensugar-caneleaves. Thecocoanut groves near the shoro were thicker and plan ted at more regular intervals than any we had yet seen. They wore evidently the results of systematic cultivation. There is no harbour at this end of Taviuna, but a long line of coral reef stretches H miles seaward from the point. Our boats wero soon making their way towards a small Btone pier, which we found had been partly battered down by tho great seas that come tumbling in on this beach in stormy weather. ThTsugar mill of Messrs Billyard Bros., near the landing, although much less exten sive than the great mill visited on the Rewa, possesses a very effective plant capable of producing 10 tons of sugar daily. Every thing about tho mill was the pink o! cleanh ness and good order. Five hundred la bourers, chiefly Polynesians and Indian coolies are employed at present. Seven mUes of substantial tramway have been con- Sucted through the sugar Potation: for the conveyance of the cane to- the m ll, and the manager considerately got the locomo tive and a line of trucks ready to take us for a run along the lino. This was he most pleasant iaunt we had yet enjoyed in the group. The cane, which was about six feet hi"h produces an abundance of fresh, green, bread, rush-like leaves, which wave about in the breeze. The plants are propagated from cuttings of ripened wood laid horizon tally in the ground, about two feet apart in tho row, and 6ft. between the rows. The cutting throws up a largo number of canes, forming a bush which, in full leaf, com pletely tills in the spaces between the plants, and makes an almost impenetrable shrub bery from which, an we passed along tho line many black heads were seen protruding in araazemeut at the sudden apparition ol an army of pale-faced men and women, armed with formidable umbrellas in that unfrequented spot. A good deal, of tho cane was in flower; unless cut.within *

month of the appearance of the feathery tuft, deterioration follows. There was cano in every stage of develop ment, seasons being practically abolished in this climate ; tho plantations aro arranged so as to keep the mill going all the year round. Tho cane, when ripo, is cut right down to the root, below tho surface of the ground, the. leaves aro Stripped oil', and sent, by rail to the mill. On good soils every root will bear threo crops, ripening one every year ; it must then bo grubbed Up and a new crop planted. Thirty tons to the acre, which sho".M yield '2 tons of .sugar, is a tcoocl crop. I'lvo per-centago of sujrav 16 the gallon of expressed juico vffrKs—atTaviuna they reckon from lift 4ozs to 1.'.1b. Tho land exposed by the tramway cutting,* wiw a rich volcanic sail intermixed with loor.o scoria stones. Tho mill has not. been * or'k ing long, consequently the rtiySng powers of this soil have nevcv boon tested, but 1 question whether it will stand exhaustive heaV.y dropping with cane us long as deep ; ; alluvial land, or soil consisting of rich vivpk; able compost, would do. The ph-nV.'.T* and mill-Owners, however, h«v*j 'i^eat faith in it, and confidence is, >vV-y necessary tn (■u"ar plantinjr f,,'.- *X least £120,000 Imvo b°oon emlwh^tt in tho Taviuna mill, and that is ! a mill of only moderate capacity. The railway, following tlio slope o'i the land up towards tho hills, brought us to an elevation which gnv« a lWngnilicont view of tho entire ortrttc Tho prospect was indo soribaWy (harming, and would, if nnything could, roconcilo an educated man to tho i solitary life which these plaiitei-s and mill managers lead, cut fall" from all the pleasures and comforts of civilisation, and brought into contact with swarms of irritating and unsavoury blacks, about whose habitations the Hies swarm in myriads. Overseers usually carry a short-handled brush, with head of long cocoanut fibre, to rid thorn j wives of this plague. On tho return journey downhill, the locomotive rattled along at a pace of twelve miles an hour, and although the trucks wovo terribly shaky, we had a most agree able jaunt. ' A Copra Plantor'B Experiences. While wandering among the buildings devoted to tho European portion of tho mill hands, 1 was accosted by an elderly man who inquired if Mr , mentioning the sxuna ot a IWariaki solicitor, had come down with us. Ueplying in the negative, ho wont on to inform me that the gentleman in quest inn was his nephew, and ho had partly expected him dawn. Me then said that he was. himself engaged in cocoa nut growing, but tho' results wovo so long iv coming that he had been compelled to (:dce temporary employment at the mill, ila arrived in New Zealand in ISiTJ, and was f>>r some timo Clerk of Works iv tho Wai rurapa district. Ho continued a settlor I hero and in Otago and other parts of New Zealand for niany years afterwards. His great mistake in life was leaving that colony cii tho Fiji rush. Ho owned n small island adjacent to \'una Point, and had planted ninoty acres of cocoanut trees thero, which were now being looked after by his son while ho worked at tho mill. Tho trees find taken ton years to como into bearing, and he anticipated tho first heavy crop next year, when they would, with very little attention — just keeping them clear of Creeper:)—go on bearing for fifty years With more knowledge in the outset, lie might have planted a variety which bears in six years, but experience has tn bo bought. Tho regulation distance for planting cocounuts is .'lO feet apart each way. lie had heard of Ceylon planters reckoning every treo as bjing worth il\ a year, but considered that an absurdly exaggerated estimate. He did not believe" that the trees would give on the

iiverngo more than SO nuts pur year ; there u'uro sorao that gave a-> many a« '200, but taking them ull rouud, 1)0 thought SO nuts pel" tree pel' annum a full estimate, and that should give him about ii) or £10 per acre. 1 may mention hero that at Mango Island they reckoned about half-a-ton of copra to tha aero as a fair average yield. My in formant went on to say that the labour of gathering nut', preparing the copra is nut very great. The nut id split and the con tents taken out with a strong knife and gun dried. Ho had not expected that tho wait ing would bo so long, or tho intermediate evpense.s so heavy, but was satisfied now with his prospects. Many of the planters had thrown up their years of toil and jjono ay.-ay. Bananas, Orangos, and Grapes. With reference to these fruits the ex-New Zcnlander told me that the only place to whi-sh bananas could bo exported with a profit was Sydney. Ho and others had tried sending them to Auckland, butrhad been put in for a loss every time. Hfi bo lievod there was a fruit ring there which prevented tho fruit from being disposed of at a fair value. The ordinary value of the fruit was Is Cd alongside the steamer in Lsvuka. To this had to be added a shilling freight and a shilling duty, making 3a (id in Auckland without commissions of sale. One lot of his fruit was actually knocked down in Auckland at eightponco a bunch. Ho presumed it had arrived in bad order, but none the less tho account sales wore rather a staggerer to him.

Oranges were gathered in such quantities by the natives that the planter had not much ehancc of profit from tlio cultivation of that fruit. With regard to vines, an impression had prevailed that the climate, keeping ft continual growth in tho cane, rendered it impossible to grow tho grape satisfactorily. Ho had been experimenting, however, and the result was that ho believed two good crops could be taken off tho vino every year by exposing the roots to the sun when the fruit was well advanced, thus riponing the cane off. He had taken 300 ibs of good fruit from six vines, and intended sending to Australia for better varlotiew. There would bo a splendid local market for the fruit it it could be produced.

A Lovely Night.

Tho steamer lay at anchor oft Vnna Point till nearly nine o'clock. While daylight lasted, tho pnssongers amused themselves with throwing sixpences into tho sea, which the natives dived after and recovered beforo they had sunk many feet. Tho fear of sharks did not seem to disturb them in the least. Towards sunset the sea settled down to an almost glassy calm. These tropical nights are delicious. Tho atmosphere was too clear for gorgeous colouring, but tho whole sky above the distant hills of Vanua Levu to tho westward was suffused with a soft salmon colour, shading into pink and orange. Tho balnunesa of tho air, soft and fragrant, created a sense of delicious languor, and one's being thrilled with

A sense sublimo Of something far more deeply interfused, Whose dwelling is the light of suttlnj? suns And the round ocean and tho living air.

And tho blue sky, and in the mind of man,

One must read Wordsworth amid scenes like these to sound tho depths of his rich contemplations, and find in hit wondrous wealth of imagery tho true reflections of Nature in her most gentle soul - stirring moods.

The voyago to Mango was rendered more pleasant because tho engines were slowed down to half speed. An extra knot or two on a steamer's motion makes a per ceptible difference in tho quivering of her stool sides'and tho throb uf her timbers. When we rolled out of our bunks for the morning dip, Mango Island was looming well ahead ; and beforo nine the anchor had been dropped on tho north-west ride in 14 fathoms, after tho lead, on two or three soundings, had run out to 35.

Exploration of Mango Island.

The Island of Mango is about three miles in diameter, and is nearly circular. Ex cept on tho northern side, it is surrounded by a broad coral reef, half a mile wide ; tho coast is rockbound, over a large extent of shoro, dipping towards the centre into many pleasant valleys. The total area is set down roughly at 5,000 acres, and the whole island belongs to a Melbourne com pany, who have planted sea island cotton, coffee, and sugar. Two adjacent islands are also tho property of the same company. Our anchor down, within a few cables of tho Eastward Ho, arothcr fino New Zealand craft, boats propollod by Fijian crews wore soon alongside Shortly after breakfast, tho ship's boats wero manned and filled with passengers, and, headed by the Company's boat, we started for tho mill, which lies at the other end of tho island. A channel has been staked off insido the reef, only wide enough for one boat at a time, and we fol lowed this waterway a distanco of four miles, when a small opening became dis cornable in the shore cliffs. On near ap proach, wo perceived within this entrance, which is barely twelve yards wido, walled on either side with rocky cliffs, a beautiful lagoon, nearly circular, and perfectly sheltered on every side. It had all the ap pearance of a submerged volcanic crater. The entrance into this picturesque lake was a pleasant surprise, arid the crews re doubled their strokes in a race for the wharf, which was reached amid ringing cheers. A tramway leads up from the landing to tho Company's mill, about half a-mile distant, along ono of the prettiest walks we had traveled in Fiji. On either side were orange groves, the ground beneath the trees thickly strewed with the golden fruit. I noticed, however, that the leaves were blackened with a sort of smut or blight, though the appearance of tho crop created no presumption that it had suffered from this cause. We fairly gorged our selves with tho fruit, and laid by stores for. future refreshment. In sire, the orange

Was small, and inferior in quality of pulp and flavour to the Sydney orange. On. the way to tho mill, Wo passed a native village, woll built, oh an elevated site, tho house's largo and comfortable, and the natives hospitable. Tho manager received the party with great- courtesy r.nd hospitality, taking one section lor a drive by rail through tlii! sugar plantation, while Others cot, oil' undor escort to cross the island. In the couVsia of this romantic journey ono came to beliovc in tho possibility of an island containing all the, vegetable products discovered by those heroes of boyish fancy, "the Swiss Familr Robinson," In l-hoii' wonderful S'6'Ain faciiic domain. Before yt; liAr; jj ono f ar , a large tree, jxwitf £ a fiuit about the size of an egg, *ri<* with furrowed sides like tho shell of a walnut, attracted attention; our guide do nned it as the custard applo. The n-ugh green skin encloses a DUtl'ber of large feeds embedded in ;>. v.iuto sticky mass, custard tik" irt appearance, and of sickly .sweet iiiivour. Further on, we got into an ex tensive cotton plantation, in full blossom of rich yellow flowers. Notwithstanding that cotton from this island took tirst- prises fat1 quality at Philadelphia imd Paris, wo were informed that its cultivation barely pays expenses, and cocoanut trees are gradually being substituted. About the centre of the island we crossed a plantation of 150 acres of cofi'ee, the shrubs about four or live feet high, and bearingagood crnpof tho rod berry which encloses the higlily piized bean. This industry also the di rectors of the Company aro doubtful about extending, because of the price of native labour', which averages from Is lid to 2s per day, rendering it impos sible to compete against Ceylon, where hordes of coolies aro available at an average cose of only sixpence a day. Tho mode of treating tho berry is very simple. The pods are passed through a mill not unlike an ordinary codec - grinder, furnished with cylinders that break tho pulp and liberate the bean, which is then gathered up and dried for market. The trees arc planted in regular lines, and have a thick bushy foliage. Tho leaf disease, which caused so much alarm, is now almost unknown on this island, although no remedial measures for its extirpation were tried,

The staple products of the island are sugar and copra. Of tho former, the acreage planted or to bo brought under comprises 1,001) acres. Tho mill buildings are of a very substantial description, and tho ma chinery i* fitted for a production of 7A tons a day. The sugar is mostly sent to Mel bourne market and disposed of direct to the grocers. Thorn is no refinery connected with this plantation. In compliance with Government regulations, extensivebuildings have been erected for tho accommodation of tho labourers, who number about 7"><>; -00 of them being Fijians, of whom the nmnagomont speak very highly. Separate hospitals are provided for Polynesians and coolies, and these are under tho caro of a medical man. The plantations of cocoanuc troos cover about 000 aoros, half in bearing. Sheds are prorided for manufacturing and storing tho copra, which is simply prepared by sun drying. Continuing our walk, wo follow a series of narrow but rich valleys, broadening out in places into coll'ee or eocounut plantations, and anon narrowing between precipitous hills into an umbrageous gully, where beau .tiful foills and bananas, wild citrons, and the Papua or mainline apple, grow in pro fusion, Home, of the fruit is fully ripe, and the chance was taken of testing these novel products. The tnuinimu apple resembles in appearance a small pumpkin which has become blighted au.l yellow in the lirst stages of growth, k weighs about a pound, and its contents are not unlike tho common rock-melon in colour and flavour, though the pulp is softer and inferior'every way. Cooked green, it makes a fair vegetable of the marrow sort. The white people at Mango, as everywhere, speak of ths utter weariness aud distaste which residents acquire for these native fruits. Another rather conspicuous tr»o on thi.-t island is Hie pandanus or scrow pine, which throws out limbs like a cab biigc-trce, and bears v heavy fruit like an enormous green pine cone, wach fruit weighing several pounds. It is rank in flavour ; nevertheless the natives out it. We passed hedges of limes, wild chile* in abundance, the ippocachuana, tho wild nutmeg, groves of broad fruit, and various palms and lar;;o timber trees. One with a beautiful leaf (tho exececoria agallo eha) inflicts a poiwonous sting that is extremely difficult to heal, a fact of which a member of tho party was made unploai antly awaro by the guide, who discovered him carrying oi.e In his hat as a shelter from the sun. Among the creepers the tonga, which has gained a European reputa tion as a cure for neuralgia, is very abun dant. If the cures recordod in ths " Lan cet " effoctod with tho plant in decoction on this painful and intractable nervous maladj , arc continued by gubsoquont experience, its export from Fiji should becomo a material item.

Of the fauna of the island we taw nothing but a largo yellow-bodied spider (which is met with everywhere in the Fijian bush), a number of small lizards, butterflies, and centipedes, nnd ono or two birds. There nro a few small *nake« in Fiji, but all of a harmless description. A striped water-snake disported itself around the steamer when lying in Suva harbour, but we novor had a chance of making his acquaintance afterwards. It is a comfort when travelling through tho donee under growth of theso islands, as in Now Ze»land, to know that no insect or rcptil* dangerous to life in socretsd in its recesses.

Tho rocks out-cropping in various parts of the island are mostly limestone, and on tho north-west side a precipico exhibits its bare face in a sheer dcicont of 150 feet, with a murmuring watorcourso in a doop gorgo at its base. Having crossed the Hand, wo continued our walk round to the .-nashoro at its northern ond, whoro fioro are a seriei of caros, penetrating the limestone cliffs to a depth of about ."00 yards. Tho ontrance ii reached by ft rocky climb, up which two ladies who had ac companied the party heretofore scrambled undaunted. The outer chamber of tho caro is dry, with short, bulky stalactites, broken oir at the points, imponding from the roof. Tho galleries aro wider, and the stalactites are better formed. The walls of the caro are green, coloured apparently by vejo tnblo mattor. Thero is nothing very striking about theso caves to persons familiar with cave scenery, but they are invested with interest from the faot that it was here that the Fijians made their last stand when tho Islands wore invaded and conquered by tho Tongans, who came over and threw their weight on tho side of one or other of tho contending tribes. SeTeral rude drawings, apparently Fijian, are exhibited on the walls of the outer cave.

The sea beach along the shore near the caves is a splendid stretch of sand and shell, nnd a fow specimens were picked up at high tide level, but nothing of any value. Nearly all shells and corals worth anything in theso islands are obtained by tho natives alive from the outlying reefs, or gathered after storms li.-ive stirred up the ocean depths. Of valu able corals—those used in jewellery—there .mo none to bo found in tho Pacific : thoy come principally from tho Mediterranean. The Pacific corals aro all too brittle for manufacturing purposes, this objection applying to tho red and salmon-coloured corals equally with the white. Mango was the first island we had visited in which there appeared to bo a super abundancoof fruit, and when wero-ombarkod aboard the steamer at 3 o'clock the boats wero loaded with oranges, limes, and bananas. Start for Samoa. Anchor was weighed at ten minutes past three o'clock, tho captain being anxious to get clear of encircling dangers before sun down. Tho island of Naitamba and Eliza beth Roof wero well astern before dusk, and the steamer soon bogan to feel onco more tho unbrokon swell of tho groat Pacific. The south-east trades blow plea santly fresh, but without force enough to ruffle tho surface of the ocean into foaming crests, and yet the ship rises and falls with a regular rocking, swaying motion that makes walking difficult and unpleasant. From the main deck, looking across tho surface of the sea, one can follow tho regularity of this undulatory movement which heaves the bosom of the water into h succession of little hills and hollows, with a pressure that bears this great steamer up and down on its surface as easily as a toy boat is tossed on the agitated waters of a wash-tub. At night an attempt was made to get up a dance on the hurri cane-deck, but waltzing was found to be almost impossible of accomplishment. To be successful, one required to have a long log and a short one, with automatic machinery, swinging the long limb in variably to the depiessed side of the ship. It did not strike me, however, that the dancers were disagreably disturbed by the nervous clutches at each other for support which the motion entailed.

An incident this night causod a temporary flutter of interest. A pretty littlo bird of tho pigeon or dovo tribo, which had blown out to sea, flew on board, and was easily captured. Our chaplain, who was collect ing specimens for the Otago Museum, and who had consigned sundry spiders, small fishes, and crinoids, to a large stone jar of spirits, wanted to add the skin of the little bird to his collection. Tho ladies, how ever, were so affected by the suggestion

that notwithstanding the person's assur ance Mint the poor little thing would be Mitch more comfortable and in Dettcr com pany in liH bottlo than Htorm-tossed on the ocean ov placed ill a oago to pine, and dio, he had to givo way, and the deaf little stranger that had, as one Ewoct young lady remarked, " Qottn to us for mercy," was subsequently fondled to death in tho soft hands of its doting captors. Happy little dove! Is it Sunday or Saturday1? Another difficult.}" disturbed our party, frn tliVi jias&lge from Taviuna to Mango we had crossed the 180 th meridian, and ought, according to nautical usage, to go back a day to equalise the twelve hours wo had mado, mid square our tirno with tho Old World calendar, It was optional whether v.'C should make two Saturdays or two Sundays. Now, it was remarked that though sonic of tho putty hud travelled with tho stoninor from Port Chalmers, and had spent two Sundays aboard, they had never yet enjoyed tho ploasuro of a sermon from our olllcial chaplain. His office had been :"» perfect sinecure. A grand chance oll'ered of pulling up arrears. It was 10 ---fleeted, however, that if we took eight days this week, wo should have to go with only a week of livo days coming back. It was resolved, therefore, to make tho ship a law unto itself. To overcome tho confusion caused by this meridian running right through the Fiji (Iroup, causing one part of the colony to observe one day as Sunday and another to keep the day following, a special Ordinance was passed through tho Legislative Council of Fiji doclaring that throughout the group the same reckon ing of time should bo observed as in Austra lia. The same rule; is followed in Tonga, Following their example, wo abolished the usages of Uie I8()tl> moridan, and took our Sunday and our sermon next duy like re spectable colonist's.

After dinner on Saturday night, Capt. C'lmtliold exhibited tho light used in cases of a man falling overboard at night. A canister, resembling a two-pound fruit can, was produced ami holes perforated in its ends. When thrown into the sea it burned with v bright llama for nearly twenty minutes, giving a plainly discornablo indi cation of the locality where the accident had occurred, and forming a splendid beacon both for the drowning man and bis rescuers. All the spectators were loud in tliuir expressions of admiration for this new ollort of scientific ingenuity put forth in the cause jf humanity.

Sunday proved a plcasnnt dn,y, the S.E, trades holding steady and not too boisterous. Sorvieo was hold in the morning on tho litiri'iciino deck l>y the Kov. Mr Fitohett, Tho log for tho day, posted at noun, showed a run of-15 miles from Mnngo Island, being an average of about 12 knots. Koppel Island about ISO miles distant. At night the Rev. Dr. Taylor delivered an elegant and vigorous sermon, and the remainder of the evening was spout with singing and convocation. All tho passengers got on chatting- tariuu without the eeremouy of introductions, ami general harmony roignod. Koppoll lilaud. As tho .steamer had got clear of Fiji in good time, and tho suggested trip to fc'nvu Savu Buy, on Vanun l-ovu, was not carried out, the captain resolved to give us a run ashore at Koppoll Island, on our road to Samoa. A notice to till;; olloct was posted on the blackboard. We had spent seven days ashoro aml causing between Llio islands of tlie Fiji Archipelago, ami carried away with us many agn.eablo impressions. The four points at which tho steamer had called had ailbrdad a bolter ideu of lifo in the (irotip than could have boon obtained by a long residence in any inn- of the centres. The facilities placed at the ili ipiwal of the party by tlio residents everywhere, especially by the managers of tho plantations at the I'ewa, Tavimia, and Mango Inlands, greatly contributed to this result.

About the middle of the night following Sunday, we wore awakened by tho Hhip stopping and rolling heavily in tho trough of the sea. In the morning wo learned that the peak on Koppoll Island had boon lighted at 2.15, when tho engines wore Btopnod, and tho ship's head put to sea ward. If the HWell of the I'acilic was per oeptiblo when counteracted by a forward motion of twelve knots, it was tenfold so now. The vessel heaved and rolled on the waves. Uno instinctively clutched the side of his bunk to prevent sudden and unpro mediatcd expulsion. When morning broko we found Koppall Island and its mountainous neighbour Boscawen ahead. Keppall is a rather pleasant - looking Island with thrco peaks. Tho Lslond is sur rounded by rcefw. Boscawon rises apruptly out of tho sea in ono high cone. They are between live and soven milos apart. When oti' tho land tho weather woa thick with drizzling rain, wind blowing fresh from 10.5. E. An examination from tho mast head showed a network of reefs, with an ox tensive patch two miles from the shore, the intervening passaged difficult. Captain ('hat Hold resolved, therefore, to abandon the idea of landing, and wo steered through the clianuol between (he Islands, and sot the course for Samoa direct. A smart-look ing fore-and-aft schooner was observed at anchor closo to tho reef. A noticeable change is felt in tlio temperature, the ther mometer on Monday registering B*ldog. in the saloon. On deck the trade- wind, which continues to blow fresh from E.S.E., veor ing to easterly, renders tho atmosphere agrtonbla. Tlio Hhip loaps ahead on her course, imparting a pleasant sonmition of forward motion, und right morrily wo speed O'er the glad waters of the dark blue Ben,

Our thoughts us boundless and our souls as free

Today an Amusomont Gommitteo was formed, consisting of Mr Hugh Georgo, managor of tho "Sydney Morning Herald," presidont; Messrs F. H. Hickling and W. liovin, for gonornl matters; Mr P, Houlton and Captain McCarthy, for sports ; and M iss 10. Nicholls and Mr E. VV. Knno, for musio and dancing. A sorios of athletic sports, consisting of tue-of-war, sack raco, egg rnco, jumping <fca, was held in tho after noon ; and at night a capital concort took place at tho Royal Opera House on tho hurricane deck.

Upolu Sighted.

On Tuesday morning wo looked out from port windows at daybreak, and Ba\v tho iiills of Upolu. Tho ongines had been put at half speed at 3.30, and tho East Capo was aboam at 7.10. Tho island is 28 miles long, and ton broad at its widest part. A main backbone range of hills runs from end to end of it, attaining a height of 4000 foot. Tho steamer coasted along its shores for several miles, and wo had a good view of its general aspect. Aided by a glass tho cocoanut groves could bo seen near tho soa, with tho native houses thickly sprinkled amongst them. A lino of foam marked tho fringing reef at a short distance from tho coast, and here and there glistened tho sands of a white beach. Spurs from the arterial range como down to tho waters' edge, with intersecting valleys, and the whole coast-lino is backed by tho thickly timbered mountains. No traco of cultiva tion could be soon anywhere About eight o'clock, European houses began to show on the hill slopes ahead, and a lino of reef, stretching from tho shore seaward, with heavy breakers marking the cud, gave a good indication of thoentranco to the harbour of Apia, the commercial capital of Samoa. After passing tho reef, wo found ourselves opposito a semi-circular bay, with a reef running seaward for a milo from either point. The channel in was straight, almost due North and South, carrying water from 15 to 7 fathoms, and good holding ground. Lying comfortably at anchor in tho bay were three barques, two schooners, and two cutters, belonging to the German and Amorican houses, whoso head-quarters avo in theso islands ; the only other vessel was the schooner Myrtlo, owned by \Y. McArthur and Co.'s Auckland firm. The skeleton of a wreck was piled up on tho reef insido tho bay, having been driven ashore during tho groat hurricane) of March, 1883, tho heaviest felt in theso islands for fifteen years. The group, it is claimed, lios Ont ario tho ordinary hurricane belt. Viewed from tho -ancliorago, tho bay showed a shore lino of about a mile, with European and native houses picturosquoly dotted among tho thick cocoanut groves, some com pletely buried in foliage. Thohillsattheback had been cleared overa largo area, and several handsome, airy-looking residences, no doubt owned by the copra kings of Samoa, and a striking mountain cataract, were conspicu ous landmarks. In the centre of the bay, near the beach, a white church with spire, and a clock which could easily be road from deck with an opera-glass, was a noticeablo feature. Its characteristics told unmis takably that it was a Roman Catholic edi fice. Near tho centre of the bay a wooden bridge, about 30 yards wide, marked the outlet of a considerable stream of fresh water ; and, with tho aid of a telescope, natives could bo soen reclining under the shelter of large round thatch houses ; while the sign of Wightman Bros, (an American house), and other business places adjacent, curiously symbolised thehappy union of white and brown r.nees which prevails in tliepo" sunny lands. The general effect of the scono was exceedingly pretty and interesting.

Scarcely had tlio ship come to an anohor when swarms of canoes paddled off from tlio shore, loaded with fruit, shells, mats, saipe cloth, fans, weapons, neck laces, and other articles of trade. I counted forty of these craft lying alongside after breakfast. Most of them were very small canoes, hewn out of the solid log, and

trimitted with an outrigger on Ono sido, consisting of a thick pole the full length of tho canoe attached to threo or four stout stakes. They tyere cranky looking craft, and the natives jumped in and out of them v.'lth iiits greatest hdneaulehce, S!,',!:" inun« and diving like fishes, and climbing into their canoes at pleasure. There wore ono or two larger canoos, which had rather peculiar features. For thin class of boat the nativo builder lays down a regular bocl, rind tlion constructs tho hull, with boards of all sorts of lengths, from fl inches to 0 foot, sowing them together firmly with sinnot. Tho wholo is then coated with a thick layer of pitch, obtained from tho breadfruit, and is rendered per fectly water-tight. Tho ends of the boat arc decked, and some of tho larger ones, used for war purposes, are capable of carry ing from 50 to 200 nion. Canoes of this kind aro often double, with a platform across, on which a deok houso is erected. Tho natives in tho boats exhibited tho general characteristics of tho Tolynesian- Malays. Their faces wero quito clear of tatoo,. but_ from the loins down wards over hips and thighs to the knoes, they wore very closely totooed. Unliko Maori tatoo, which follows ourved linos, tho Samoans puncture the colour into tho skin in [a closely dotted mass, with diagonal linos of bare skin em bellishing tho design, which at a distance looks almost like a pair of dark pants. Tho instruments used aro usually the spines of tho shaddock tree, or bone driven in with a small mallet. The colour ing matter is burned oandle-nut. The tvomon do not tatoo. Tho process is begun with tho mon at tho ago of puberty, and is slow and painful, As among their civil ised professional brothron, thero is a codo of honour recognised in tho profession do voted to this art, and this codo ischiolly ap plied—so tiuo is human nature in all its as pects—to tho maintainandp of an adequate scale of foes. A tutooor will sometimes stop in tho middle of his job, leaving tho subject half dono, until his pecuniary demands are satisfied, and no professonal brother can bo templed to cut in and finish tho business. A Samoan is no more able to walk about for tho rest of his lifo half-tatooed than an Australasian mashor with ono whiskor, and ho is thorcforo obliged to pay up to the ut termost farthing.

Although not so invariably as in Fiji, tho Samoan men and women do dyo their hair yellow with burned coral, and paint their face* red and black. They also shave tho heads of their children, using sharks' teeth as razors, Rubbing or pressing noses, as with tho Maoris, is tho form of national salute. Circumciifion is also ofton practiced. Thoy never eat before 10 or 11 o'clock in the morning, but afterwards huve no regu lar mqal time—eating almost continuously through the day.

Mouklcs Aboard—The Ship Quarantined.

Tho native* wero doing a brisk trade. Many of th»m Boomed to havo a smattering of English, and although they quoted price* of tho clearer articles in dollars thoy had a shrewd porcoption of the rolatiro value of shillings, sixponces, and half-crowns. A shilling for a mnall fan, shilling for a bunch of bananas or ton cocoauuta ; from two to ftur shillings tor strips of plain matting and tappa oloth ; Tariouß prices for shells mill corula.

Ono enterprising native camo aboanl with a paper from tho Acting British Consul, certifying that a certain Samoan native washerwoman was a laundress of un impeachable honesty and skill, and ho was rapidly collocting a large quantity of soiled linen, whon an unexpected cTont put an end to all thctso ontei'prisos.

The boat with Mr Churchward, Acting Hritish Consul, and Dr. Ross, the Health Olliimr of Apia, was observed approaching tin- ship. It then becamo whispered among (lie groups on deck that tho barber had been turned out of his quarters in the forecastle and a sick seaman placed there; furthermore, that Dr. Waitand Dr. Oillespio had hold a consultation on tho case that morning, and pronounced ,t an unuiistak ablo ouso of measles When tho Consul's boat drow alongside, thoso facts woro re ]iorted to him, nnd ho came aboard with Dr. Roes, and tho latter, on oxamination of the patient, agrood with tho diagnosis of the uhip doctors. After consultation with the captain, tho two local ollicials wont ashore to communicato tho facts to the Consular Court, and detormino upon the course of act ion.

Some timo aftor their departure, a native chief camo from shoro nnd ordered all the native boats away from tho ship. This looked ominous, nnd its significance was soon confirmed by tho arrival of tho boat: with tho British nnd American Consuls and Health Officer to communicato the intelli genco that although they woro of opinion that as the caso had only just developed it wik unlikely that infection prevailed through tho ship, yot they had no alterna tive but to place tho vessol in quarantine mid rofuso permission to land. This doci.sion had been arrived at with great regret, in asmuch an tho white residonts of Apia had looked forward to tho arrival of the stoamor with much interest nnd pleasure ; but thoy considered it imperative to protoct the native- population from tho risks of infection with a disonso which liad proved so terribly fatal in Fiji. Aftor the lint feeling of disappointment, the justice of tho decision was generally concurred in by the passengers, nnd they began to reconcile thomsolvos to tho inovit dble with tho best grnco that philosophy could as6unio.

It was suggested that tho stoamor nhoukl procood at onoo to Tonga or return to Auck land diroct, but Capt. Chntfiold, after a con sideration, determined to follow out tho ad vertised programme ; and, having obtained permission to ship new supplies of fresh wntor on tho following day, a notico was posted on board to tho effect that tho stoamor would dopart for I'ango Pango on Thursday morning (an arrangement which, as will bo s»ou hereafter, was not carried out).

Interview with tfia United Statm Consul.

Boing furnished by Mr (5.' W. Griffin, the United States Consul for New Zealand, with an introduction to Dr. Canisius, tho United Stated Consul for Samoa, I took tho oppor tunity of his presence on board to discuss various topics relating to tho present and futuro of Samoa. I fonnd him a gontloman of great intelligence and long consular ow porienco, having entered the Amorican foreign sorrice during Lincoln's Presidency. He was gpocially choßen for tho Consulate at Samoa on account of thepoculiar difficul ties arising out of the conflict of interna tional relations on theso islands. As our conversation covered many topics of great intorest, I will givo a resuin<s of it here. The first mbject opened was tho question of the return of Mr W. A. Hunt, who was de ported by Sir A. Gordon, and has since been prosecuting a series of lawsuits against the ex-Governor of Fiji. Special Correspondent: I met Mr W. A. Hunt in Auckland a few days before leaving, and he told mo ho contemplated returning hore shortly. How will he be recoivod 1

U.S. Consul: Any influonce he had is gono. I have the ossuranco of the Nativo Government that they do not want him hero, and will not admit him to any offico in the Government. Personally I have no feeling with regard to Hunt—his proceed ings were before my time—but tho other consuls are very strongly opposed to him on tho ground that he exorcised an influ ence inimical to the foreign interests in these islands. I believe if he returns hero he will find things totally changed from what thoy were bofore, and oven if he is not again deportod, will see that his position is untenable.

Special Correspondent: There was a Mr John Lundon down here who returned to New Zealand and reported to the Govern ment thoro that the Samoan natives wcro anxious for annexation to that colony. Do you know anything of his movomonts when hero ?

U.S. Consul: Certainly. He had not tho smallest influence. Tho statement about tho nativos wishing annexation is utterly without foundation. Why, only recently the King, having heard of the report, told me that he would, if necessary, resist by force of arms if New Zealand should attempt to annex these islands. Besides, there aro independent treaties between the United States and Germany with tho Native Government, and both countries would oppose annexation, even if the natives wero agreeable to it. In the face of *uch opposition it would, I think, be found im practicable. There is, however, no desire for it on the part of the natives. Special Correspondent: Would that apply equally to any movement for annoxa tion instituted by the Imperial Government of Great Britain ?

U.S. Consul: I have no doubt of it. America would oppose and Germany also. The time for annexation has gone by. Be sides, British interests hero are not so large as those of Germany or America. From my instructions I know that the American Government would not oppose the acquisition by England of any of the Western Groups—New Hebrides, New Ire land, or New Guinea—but Samoa is a soalod book.

Special Correspondent: Is the present Native Government a. strong one 1 US. Consul: No. The opposing party is just as strong. I don't think, however, that it would have any better chance of governing than Malietoa. His adherent* would always be a powerful faction.

Speoial Correspondent: Do native wars still ensue from these divisions ?

U.S. Consul i No i the Consular Govern ment prevents them. Recently there was a collision impending between the two fac tions at Fo.mio L'ango, and wo brought the matter under tho notice ola British and a Gerftmn man-o'-war, which happened to come in, 2'ut t!'«,v went round to Tntuilla, and compelled the ==«»«• to dteband. . Kpecial Correspondent: ft !;atfo tho juris diction of tho Consular Court? U.S. Consul: Wo do not claim aP.y™™o^ rlty outside the municipiality of Apia. \>" exercise authority over the white residents and shipping, and settle all disputes. The Native Government, however, never take any important step without consult inc us The Consuls have agreed to support tho decisions of Mr Kellsall as Magistrate ; lie is an Englishman, and has E ivcn jrroat satisfaction by his administra tion If an Englishman offends against the law and is fined or imprisoned by the Ma"Hrate the English Consul is supported by "us in enforcing tho penalty. If an American or Gorman, tho Consul is similarly supported. The system has worked very woll indeed, and there have been no differences of any serious import between tho Consuls. Special Correspondent: Does Mahotoa exorcise supreme authority or does ho con sult with the Taimua and laipule.' Lfno former, it should bo explained, is a council ol seven chiefs, representing a sort of House of Commons, and tho latter four leading chiefs-a Houso of Lords.] ff.S. Consul : >lo generally calls thorn togothor to discuss groat quostions. On tho wholo tho Native Ciovornmont, in con sultation with tho Consular Court presiding over A pia, works very woll. Spc.ial Correspondent: Of course, sub jects of each nation are entirely under tho jurisdiction of their own Consul 1 U.S. Consul : i'es. Our regulations and instructions are different, and apply only to subjects of tho Governments we represent. Spe ial Correspondent: Are British in torost.1' extending hnro? U.S. Consul: No, tho reverse; thoy are declining. I had to report this to my Go vernment in my last report, and shall report a further decline in my next. Tho fact is, tho British aro too much hampered— un fairly so, I think. They aro not placed on fair terms with other residents here, and naturally suffer. For one thing, thoy are prohibited from importing labour to work plantations, Now the Samoans will not work : thoy say it in only for slaves. To carry on any industry, therefore, you must import labourers. On Ooddcfroi's cotton and mlfee plantations all tho labourers are imported. Thoy have probably a thou sand. Special Correspondent: I was told in Fiji that cotton barely pays expenses thero. That tho labour is too dear, from Is Gd to 2s a day. Do Goddofroi's firm make it pay ? U.S. Consul: I bolievo bo. The cotton is of a very fine quality. The price you namo for labour is oxcesslvely high. I estimate the labour hero at sixtoon cents (eight ponce) a day. Tho labourora ar« recruited for throe years, but generally stay longer. Special Correspondent: I soo tho schooner Myrtle here, belonging to McArthur and Co., of Auckland; aro that firm working their Samoan lands? U.S. Consul: No, the fact is they could not do so without imported labour, and from that they aro debarred. The extent .iii.l condition of their land claims is not Hpucitically known here, and I believe they aro withdrawing from tho trade. As 1 F»id, British enterprise is at such an enormous disadvantage that it cannot hold its ground here.

Special Correspondent: Is tho American trade considerable ?

U.S. Consul: Tlicro arc thrco American house, two that havo vessels and regular oopra utations. Their business is chiefly import; but they export copra to Snn Frauci co. An American company, whose head quarters nio at San Francisco, own I'JO,OOO acres of land, but they avo doing nothing with it. That is it you see at the back of the .native town. It oxtenda right over Iho range. I represented to my (lovernmont that Amoricans had no chance ugainut the Germans if wo were prohibited from importing labour, and permission has been given to procure labourers on exactly the H.'iuis terms as the Germans.

Special Correspondent: Do you think that under these conditions American planta tions will be established?

US Consul: 1 doubt it. Not that I have the .smallest hesitation in expressing my belief that coffee, cotton, or sugar could be made to pay well. But tho fact is that there is such enormous scope in tho United State? for capital and enterprises of every land that there is not much inducement to come hero to invest.

Special Correspondent: What will they do with their lands, thon ?

U.S. Consul: 'W ell, I boliove thoy would liko to soil. I cannot, of courso, say autho ritatively, but that is my opinion. It seems to mo that Australians who havo invosteda largo amount of capital in Fiji could havo done bettor in Samoa. Thoy mightacquiro these lands probably for a few shillings per acre, or obtain largo sharing interests in them and work thorn undor American pro tection. So long as tho importation of labour is prohibited by tho British Govern ment, theso lands could not bo worked as a British estate.

Special Correspondent: But what about tho titles ? To work sugar or coffeo ontails an onoi mous outlay of capital, and people must be perfectly sure of their tenure before they embark in it. U.S. Consul: I think thero need be no apprehension on that score. Such a recog nition of tho title could bo obtained from the native government as would securo its permanence. I holiovo thero would bo no difficulty nt all with that.

Special Correspondent: I suppose God defroi and Co. do tho bulk of tho trade horo ?

U.S. Consul : Yes. They have their ex tensive plantations, nnd their copra stations over tho islands, and secure tho bulk of the copra. It costs them about ono cont to a cent and a quarter a pound. All the roeoamit trees about Apia are owned by the Gorman firms. Thero is another largo Gorman firm besides Goddefroi, — Ruge and Co. Thoy own vossels and copra sta tions. Tho German land claims arc very largo ; one sesreoly knows where they begin or ond ; but if other comrjanios wero established in Samoa, somo portion of these claims would no doubt be disputed.

Special Correspondent: Is the Amorican trado growing ? U.S. Consul: Yes, very noticeably. That is what makes mo feel sure that the Ameri can Government would nover consent to any scheme for annexation. Special Correspondent: Has Steinborger any party hero now ? U.S. Consul: No. But the natives still speak well of him. Special Correspondent: Why did the U S. Government throw him overboard? U.S, Consul: I speak on this matter un officially, and only express my own opinion. I boliovo, howover, that tho agreement he mado with tho Germans for the sale of all the native produco collected as taxes was tho cause of his abandonment. It showed that he was careless of Amorican interests, and of courso ho could not expect support under those circumstances from tho Ameri can Government.

Special Correspondent: Aro tho nativos still favourably disposed towards the United States ?

U.S. Consul: I beliove they would moro readily conccdo any request made by us than any othor Government. Tho best feeling has always prevailed. Special Correspondent: How many Euro peans are there here altogether ? U.S. Consul: Only about 200. There avo very few white women, only one with whom I am on intimate terms of friendship—tho wife of a resident. You may well 'beliovo, thorofore, that tho quarantoening of your ship is a much greater disappointment to us than to you ; we have looked forward to tho visit with so much pleasure. I can assure you that thoro aro thousands of Samoan natives lying around this bay watching tho vessel with wonder. They havo nover aeon such a stoamer. I should very much like to see Australian capitalists turn their attention in this direction. The climate is healthy, and there is a splendid field for plantation enterprise if the labour were procured on favourable terms. i Ball at Night. Illumination of Ship. The passengers having settled down to residenco aboard, began to provide amu.«e mont. Three boats set off to the reef, but tho tide was too high to land. The amuse ment committee had arranged for a ball at night, and t» show the townsfolk that we bo"c them no animosity for shutting us out, the Captain sont up a number of rockets, and exhibited the large arc light at tho foretop. Illuminated on hurricane deck, where dancing and and music were the order of the day, on the main deck, and in the saloon, the ship must have been a spoctacle.to astonish the natives. They however kept religiously away, shewing that the control of the chiefs is very good, or the measles very terrifying. On the following day we had the fullest leisure for examining this bay, and in loveli ness it can scarcely be surpassed. There is a singular out-current along the bottom of the bay,caused by the water pouring over tho reefs and being banked in by the advancing tide, together with the body of fresh water flowing from two streams. The out-current operates so powerfully on the keel of vessels that it is eaid they can often taU out

against the wind and tide. The thought that we are within aight of the promised land, and yet uot permitted to enter, causes Homo discontent on board, but for me it is enough to bask in this sunshine and inhale the fresh sea breezes, with a delicious sense of nothing to do but talk and dream. The only disagreeable part is when compelled to return to our cabins or to moals in tho saloon. Tho thermometer in my cabin at seven in the morning stood at Sijdeg., and that with tho port-hole wide open nil night. At Fiji wo never had it higher than eighty. In tho saloon when all were assembled at dinner, \vi h the lamps lit, wo stewed in our own juices. Before breakfast we amused ourselves watching tho natives diving for shells and coral off tho roof inshore. Thoy remained below from 25 to 28 seconds, returning to tho surface for only a short breathing space. Ono man continued this work for more than an hour, always jumping in feet foremost.

During the day we saw turtle swimming in the harbour two or three times, but thoy dive 8« quickly that there is no chance of catching them, unless when asleep on tho reefs or Deaches. It was not our fortune to soa turtle soup on the bill of fare either at Fiji or Samoa. A boat manned by natives came off to the ship with a letter from tho consuls, and took the chance of bringing a little trade on their own account. They manifested all the in stincts of monopolists , fans which sold the previous day, when all the canoes were alongside, «t ono ■hilling, now fetched two nnd three, and other things in propor tion. The passengers, however, were resolved not to dopart without some souvenir, and as thiß boat returned from time to time to the ship, a fair amount of good English coin had before night been transferred to the shore, and a much more bulky cargo of, for tho most part, useless and not very ornamental trifles crowded tha ship's cabins. Some pretty red coral fetched 3s for about a dozen small branches, and largo shells found purchasers as high as four shillings a-piece. One old gentleman passenger, a retired Now Zealand tradesman, resolved to retaliate on the natives, and seated himself in a ship's boat alongside, where ho exhibited to their gaze > number ef gorgeous-coloured pocket hand korchiefs, cards of knives, and other articles to tickle the fancy of a simple child of nature, but they refused to buy, and when the native steersman told him that thoy had 3uito as good things ashore, he retired in iscomfiture, a warning to other visitors to these islands. I may say here it is useless to bring articles for barter; tho natives undorstand money, aud will only sell for coin. On shore, German florins, which are only worth 75 cents, pass as dollars worth 100 cents, but no doubt the local store keepers, who are forced to take this money, compensate themselves in their profits for the loss they suffer upon bank exchangee. There ax-e no import duties, but goods are »fcill said to be very doar on shore. Our notice board contained several in teresting announcements. Photographs of the passengers and ship's company in group by Mr Burton at 10 a.m. ; art union of curios sent aboard by the British Consul, for ladies only, at 2; the municipal regula tions of Apia, including heavy fines for sup plying grog to natives, which we had no opportunity of infringing; and rowing races in the ship's boat at 3 p.m. The event of the day was New Zealand versus the World, and young New Zealand triumphed; tho victors afterwards com peted against tho Bliip'e dfficers, coxswained by Captain Chatfield, and again bore off the honours by half a boat's length, after a tough race.

In the afternoon the following letter was posted on the board, and was quickly copied into various notebooks and diariea :—

Fale Kovana, Apia, 17th Juno, 1884. I alu ma Tamaitai, i luga s.s. Wairarapa. Alu ma Tamaitai,—Si ou alofa !Ua mana 'i matar ma niri alu i lo tiga alofa, ma ua tupu o leva faalavoclase, ua faieata ai ova outou mahu mai ai uta o maimoa m,-i silasila o tuea ma lo outou manas, na outou maliu mai i Samoa neo, ac in i lea faafetii ma ua faailoa mai o se mai o se mai, o se mai-, o se mai pipiri o i luga o lo vaa, faafeti foi pc afai cla mana ai nisi ole matau unu i lona mai. Ou te faamoomoe ia tatau faata umanuia.

O au nei alue ma Tamaitai,

La outou uo, Teumanutafa, Kovana Tuamasaga, Apia,

[TRANSLATION.]

Residence of the Governor, Apia, 17th Juno, 18S4. To the Gentlemen and Ladies on board the

s.s. VVairarapa. Gentlemen and Ladies,-Our love to you ! We, together with other chiefs, are filled with deep and painful regret because of tho hindrance which has arisen to pre- Ycnt you from coming on shore to look about and see Samoa, according to the earnest desire for which you have come here. But notwithstanding that, we thank you for making known to us the sickness on board your vessel, which might prove contagious, and shall feel grateful to you if none of our people get that disease. Trusting we may be all alike happy, I am, Gentlemen and Ladies, Your friend, The Govexxor of the Tuamasaga, Apia. A suitable reply was signed by all the passengers and sent on shore, conveying our undying affection for the Samoan people in general and His Excellency the Governor in a particular and speoial degree. Night Inoldonts.—Tho Samoan Belles. At night a breezo sots in from the land, and it was fragrant with tho odours oi flowers. We hadread with suspicion stories about spicy breezes encountered at sea, but now experienced them ; the nature of the flowers that contributed to the perfume for tune had not permitted us to inspect, but the odour, if I mistake not, was that of the blossoms of the mummoe apple (which re sembles the perfume of the tuberose) com mingled with the scent of orange and lemon

groves. A native boats crowded with girls, passed by singing a waiata. They were greeted with many haoramais from the New Zealanders, but passed on their way into the shadows of the night, heedless of our entreaties. The story runs that they were making for a schooner lying in harbour, and a boat resembling the one they occupied wus pointed out next morning astern of an island trader. Our chief officer, -sVho.had boon plying to and fro in the ship's launch all day, obtaining fresh water from a creek, told marvellous stories of the beauty and simplicity of these Samoan women, who, with the curiosity of Mothor Eve, cams down in croSvds to examine at a safe distance the handsome uniform of the Union Steamship Company. Their hair, according to his account, fell in long and graceful tresses over their round bare shoulders and breasts, and having only one garment—the titi, a fringe made of the loaves of the draecaena—tied around the loins, and falling to the knees, with true womanly carefulness they removed that before wading the river to get a better view of the gallant British tars. Like the Fijiane, they are fond of decorating them selves with flowers, and necklaces and orna ments of shells. Another form of dress is the tibutu, which consists of a garment made of white mats, two feet wide, in which there U an opening for the head, the mats flowing from the shoulders in tapering scallops to the feet. The men and women never'eat together.

It is claimed by those who are familiar with the customs of the Samoans that they are,in their primitive habits, a chaste people. This certainly appears to be true with re gard to the young, unmarried girls. The differences in habit and custom exist ing among the people inhabiting the Polynesian Islands are in many respects remarkable. The Samoans, like the Tahi tianß, and unlike their relatives the New Zealanders, were never cannibals. In the matter of chastity, however, they differ from both Tahitians and New Zealandors. In both those countries freedom of inter course between unmarried members of the two sexes was thought nothing of. Capt. Cook, writing of the Tahitians as he saw them first, says:—"lt cannot be supposed that among those people chastity is held in much estimation; but there is a scale of dissolute sensuality which these people have ascended wholly unknown to every other nation whose manuers have been recorded from the beginning of the world to the present hour, and which no imagination could possibly conceive. Marriage in this island, as it appeared to us, is nothing more than an agreement between the man and the woman, with which the priest had no concern. Where it is contracted it ap peared to be pretty well kept, though some times the parties separate by mutual con sent, and m that case a divorce takes place with as little trouble as the marriage. The Arreoys are those of the higher classes, who from their fiokleness and their possessing moans of purchasing a succession of fresh connections, are constantly roaming about; and from having no particular attachment, seldom adopt the more settled mode of marriage. And so agreeable is this licentious plan of life to their disposition that the most beautiful of both sexes thus commonly spend their youthful days, habituated to the practice of enormities which would disgrace the most savage tribes, but are peculiarly shocking among people whose general character in other re spocts has evident traces of the preva-. lence of humane feelings. When an Arreoy woman is delivered of a child, a pioce of cloth dipped in water is immedi ately placed to the mouth and nose, which suffocates it. Privacy is little wanted among people who have not even the idea of indecency, and who gratify every ap pntite and passion, before witnesses, with no more sense of shame than we feel when wo satisfy our hunger at a social board with our family or friends."

Now, it is the pride of the Samoarts that they never practised infanticide, and in chastity among the unmarried girls was punished with death. When a girl was chosen for marriage she had to undergo a barbarous test under the direction of the •priest to prove her virginity, and if she failed to stand the ordeal she was led away and clubbed to death. This test has' sur vived to tho present da>y among the natives who are not greatly under missionary in fluence, but the punishment consists in rejection by the husband and ignominy. Divorces, however, are very common, and easily obtained. When a native is tired of his wife he merely sends her home to her peoplo with a few presents, which signifies that ho requires her services no longer. When a chief does this, . the divorced wife is precluded from marrying again. Brides are always furnished with mats as a dowry. Fine mats, indeed, constitute the Snmo"an idea of wealth and luxury, and Consul Griffin, who resided in the islands for some years, affirms that marriages for mats are as common among the Samoans as marriages for money among their civi lised brethren. Some mats were offered alongside the Wairarapa at from £5 to £10 a-piece. They were soft and beautifully worked, but gave no appearance to the Euro pean eye of representing the figures placod upon them. Most of the mats and matting were straw-coloured—coarse and clumsily woven—little better than sugar baors—with feathers, chiefly of domestic poultry, inar tietically fastened in. The material used is the leaf of a species of pandanus. Shaggy mats are made out of the bush of the hibis cus". The saipe cloth, resembling the tappa of Fiji, is made of the bark of the pa^er mulberry beaten together and daubed with black or red colouring matter; it is also ragged-looking stuff, but a good deal of it was disposed to passengers at a dollar the piece and upwards. Fabulous prices aro occasionally asked for a fine mat, which is treasured as an heirloom, and which has taken a woman nearly a lifetime to. make, being reckoned as worth its weight in bank notes. One sent to the JJnited States was priced at £4,000; but these are purely ! Samoan notions, and the poor creatures have no idea-what a let of fun is to be got out of .£4,000 when invested in the luxurious pleasures of the pale-face.

The Last Bay at Samoa.

On Thursday morning Mr Hngh George, President of the Amusements Committee, wrote a letter on behalf of the passengers, and addressed to the Governor and Consular authorities of Apia, suggesting that as the passengers had been deprived of the plea sure of making o closer acquaintance with the Samoan people, it- would afford them pleasure to witness a series of canoe race?> diving matches, <fee, within a safe distance of the ship. Captain Chatfield guaranteed to keep all the ship's boat's aboard during the regatta. The passengers of the Waira rapa offered £10 in prizes.' Dr Canisiuß, American Consul and President of the Municipal Board, came off to the ship with the reply, which intimated that the English and German Consuls would not assent to the proposition, on the ground that it would further infringe quarantine regulations. This answer was felt to be churlish and significant of an in disposition to do anything to mitigate the discomforts of our unlucky situation. After the openness which had been displayed by the ship and the quiet submission to a.pro hibition that might easily been evaded, this surly rebuff caused a feeling of strong resentment. It was generally at tributed to the opposition of the German Consul and the dread in which the English Consul stands of the High Commissioner. It reconciled us to the notice which was dis seminated that the ship would resume its cruise early in the afternoon. , •

It now became generally known that a clearance for Pango Pango harbour, on the island of Tutuila, had been refused, and the Captain was warned that he would in cur eevero penalties if he entered that port. The reason alleged was that no means were available at Pango Pango for enforcing; quarantine, and the Consuls declined to trust to the guarantee of the ship that no communication would be held with the shore or the native boats that might come off.

The captain, therefore, had no alternative but to depart for Tonga, and anohor was . weighed at thr«e o'clock, As we passed .. down the harbour, H.M. Espiegle cam* . steaming in, and when the vessels were abreast and within easily hail'of each other, three ringing cheers echoed across : the waters telling how English blood warms up at the sight of the dear old flag. Voyage to Tonga. In order to bring the measles patient to the stage of convalescence before reaching Tpnga, Captain Chatfleld put the vessel under easy steam, only 195 miles being made the second day out from Samoa, or about eight miles an hour. The wind was fresh : easterly, and some of the more sensitive passengers, in bitterness, of heart, or rather, "-■ of stomach, again exclaimed with quaint. George Herbert v: ; .V Praise the sea; but keep on land. :, With what praiseworthy diligence do young and old apply themselves when launched upon the ocean to the art of throw ing circular pieceß of rope at an upright j pin. For half as much labour on shore fees of heavy amount would bo demanded, but " afloat, doctors, lawyers, commercial mag nates, vie with each other in this vain put- . suit, concentrating their entire faculties i upon the business, and dancing round with ' glee when they succeed in fixing three or four of these hempen neckties on the, wooden post.

Another source of a wayward delight were the flying fish which skim the surface of the water at frequent intervals. 1 have seen it stated that fifty yards ia the longest flight of which these fish are capable. Ocular evidence leads me to a differ ent conclusion. Flights of more than double that distance appeared quite com mon, the fish taking not a direct but a circular course, and a stray excursioniat into the air was found by one &f the sailors " in the morning lying on the top of one 6f our deck awnings, about 20 feet above the water-line of the vessel. Probably he bad j winged his way thither from the crest of a high wave, for the ordinary height of flight is little more than sufficient to clear the tips of the lesser waves. The motion .of fin, however, is distinctly birdlike. Among the afternoon incitements oh Saturday was an Obstacle Race, in which : the competitors passed through life-buoys, up rattlings, climbed greasy planks, crept : through a 12-foot windsail, and across a pond of salt water. The incidents •were decidedly lively. At night the ship's • stewards gave a nigger minstrel entertain ment in the orthodox style, and "it was decidedly above the average merit of amateur entertainments of this sort. '

On Sunday morning at daybreak land was in sight, and we were soon cruising among the coral islands and reefs of Tons;a. The temperature had been falling about 2 degrees a day, and the thermometer now stood at 79 in the early morning and at night. The appearance of the land was wholly different from anything we had seen yet, for we were now among true- coral islands. The whole group, which comprise upwards of 100 islands is—-with a few ex ceptions, including two a«tive volcanoes— of coral formation, raised to their present level by tho slow elevation of the land. The islands are low-lying and flat over the whole surface, presenting & striking contrast to tho mountains of Fiji and Samoa. In some places they attain a height of fifty feet, but are usually much lower, and from the distance at which we passed looked very little above sea-level, with only a strip of beach of white coral sand, and shore breakers, between the aea and cocoanut groves. The. group lies be tween lat. 18 and 22 S., and long. 174 and (To be Continued.)

THE AUCKLAND EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JULY 5 1884.

5



TO THE. FREE AND INDEPENDENT! Greatest Bona Fide Sale! OP KEADY-MADE CLOTHING Ever Held in New Zealand! Ever Held in New Zeafrnd \ mHE Proprietor of the MONSTER CLOTHING MAET, 214, Queen-street (opposite -*- McArthur's), desires to thank the Public of Auckland and Country Districts for the very large share of patronage bestowed on him for the last fifteen years, which has at lafst compelled him to seek larger premises for the future, and he has been successful in obtaining those well situated and commodious premises lately known as the EXCHANGE HOTEL, CORNER QUEEN AND DURHAM STREETS. In order to open the new premises with an entirely New Stock (now on the way from England), he will, for a FEW WEEKS ONLY, offer the whole of his present Stock, amounting to £15,000, AT IMMENSE REDUCTIONS! Prices Lower than ever before seen in Auckland. The Proprietor did intend to publish a Price List, but on second thoughts deemed it best to ask the Public* to call and compare both GOODS and PRICES for their own satisfaction, at this COMPULSORY SALE. NOW IS THE TIME FOR REAL BARGAINS! Please Eote Address IJ^ T iThH "XT'""^7^ -^P °Slte McA rthur'sV The Monster Clothing Mart, 214, Queen-street ;:



Good Resolutions.—At the commencement " ■■>■ of every new year hundreds and thousands of '-- ',' our young men-and old men as well—form •*'-'".'! resolutions for thiiir guidance for tho ensuing year. Many koup them, while others breafi thoiu. To such we wiah to give a word of ad- vice, iv order to sustain your determination of ■ leading a better life in the future you should use Hoy Bitters. The judicious uso of Hop Bitters strengthens, cleanses, and purifies the Btomach, bowels, blood, liver, nerves, and kidneys, and is I just what you want to build up and umsuaata I yourself.— Qreenfnah Dem, Read, - ':. I'm-lai