RAMBLES ROUND THE WORLD.

No. XV.

From Genoa through Italy.

ON leaving Genoa, the train made a retro grade movement for a considerable dis tance. At first I thought we were nearly shunting on to another track, but at length the engine was reversed, and wo went forward through a tunnel underlying the city to the station Piazza Brignole. There we were detained for some time, for what purpose I was unable to determine, unless it was, to give an employ^ an op portunity to test the wheels of the car riages, that being the only operation I saw going on during tbe halt. It gave me the chance, however, of looking at the defences ou this side ot the city. Great pains seem to have been taken to fortify Genoa. The ramparts, in places, betray signs of age, but they have been strengthened by modern additions.

When at last we began to move, I antici pated the pleasure of viewing, uninter ruptedly, the country as I advanced. But in this 1 was dissapoloted. a lapld suc cession of tunnels often limited the range ot vision to the carriage in which I sat. These subterranean paisages were vexa tiously frequ'nt on the journey from San Romeo, but between^Genoa and Pisa they are still more numerou-, and some of them very long, I had to be content to travel in obscurity, only now and then being able to look about me. Occasionally I got a glimpse of villages and scattered houses, made to look picturesque by ornamental devices painted on their fronts.

After crossing the alrno.-t dry channel of the Bisagno, and passing the town of Sturla, the Mediterranean Sea came into view again ou the right and on the left the slopes of tne'Appenin ; s, clothed with vineyards and olive groves : detached vil lages peeping cut here and there from amidst the iollaee Two more tunnels took us pest Quarto and Quinto, merely allowing a glance at the thick plantations of lemon trees, in which they are embow ered, and tho detached country houses that enliven the environs. We pulled up at Netvi, a town of some Importance. It en joys the reputation of an exceptionally mild and enjoyable climate, owing to its sheltered position. Some of the suburban villas are very pretty, particularly one bearing the qaecr name of Gropallo, aud another called Ponoone, built ih the style of a pagoda.

Bogliasco, I'ieve di Soii, and f-ori were passed in succession, tunnels constantly intervening to prevent anything like a con tinuous view. \t the last mentioned place, however, I got a brief prospect of sur passing beauty while crossiug a lofty viaduct—the deep blue sea ou one side, and a luxuriant valley on the other, run ning up between hilly ranges that peemed to embrace it—mch a spot as 1 should i_a gine a hermit of old might have selected for his retreat from a noisy and sinful world, if he wished to be hidden from all but the charms of .Nature, the distant town in tbe hollow serving to remind him that there were other human beings besides himself iv the neighbourhood, but far beneath hira, and that he lived ex alted beyond their reach.

On we sped, piercing the promontory of St. Margherita by the long tunnel Kuta, which derives its title from an adjoining villas-e of tint name. Here there is a sketch of fine fertile country sKirting the bay of Rapallo. Many wealthy Italians have judiciously selected this locality for their villas. An a shcrt distance is the small seapjrt Portofino. Two old castles give character to the place. One of them is perched on the point of the promontory. Francis 1., alter the battle of favia, was intercepted in this neighbourhood, on his way to embark for Madrid, aud was im prisoned In a monastery that then stood midway betwe-n St. Murgheritaand Porto fino. Not far from Kapallo is the Church of Madonna de Montallegrj, a shrine cf peculiar sanctity, to which numbers of pilgrims resort. Chiavari, the next place of note, is pleasantly situated at th* mouth of the river Kutella. Lace-making is here a special industry. There are also some silk factories and several shipwrights' e-tablish- I-uents. But the fame of Chiavari is princi pally connected with the manufacture of a "jeculiar kind of chair, light aud fragile in '"'Pearance, but said to be more durable ou 'n they look. They are known throngh mou Italy as ozdie di Chiavari. Tho c| rcllutains in the distance form a seml . .'round this locality, and the country s'Knl"iund is charming, Lavagna is an In degreo. ant t OW n, but Invested with some Uons. Q { iatcrest from its historical asiocia here; a The Counts of Tieschi held rule a' Wt? d of the family. Siuibaldo, born nnder thg afterwards elevated to be Pope the astutg tit i c o£ r nuoceat iv. He was h-i El °PP°nent o£ Frederick 11. tor awhile. \ OQf , tunnel shut out the prospect we came in Kmendng again into daylight, hence the Ui ght of Sestrl Leyante. From little advanta Qe turned inland, but with rug the countr, e a „ f<ir as f aci i ic i Q j £or g^. dulatiog chara. were conoerned> The un . the engineer, Ifcer of the ground compelled to many tunnels nmo) to have recoutse Moneglia, Dei d d cutting-. Sevanta Montere^ Fral £ urai Bonxssola, Manarola, and Rf )33oj Vermazza, Corniglia, in succession t» omagf?ioa() wer(J all pas Bed tunnels precludj. le constalltly intervening factory view. TV nR aDyt hlng like a satis the naval depo? ieawe carae to LaSpezzia, Two rocky prod of the klug(lom o£ Ita , ' *?. th _ha u rboar;.-*iontorios form the entrance The harbour lt. and arocrowncd w i t h forts. The royal doc) ge j £ j g S p ac i oU3 au d secure, ment, covering j :yard is a va , t eßtab . lsh . two hundred ac n area o£ between oae aud the bay of St. V. re 3 . aQd the maga!! i nea in large. Italy,aa t 0 are oa a sca ] e neatly as some very power ls wqll knowa> has addod I saw some of flll ironc i ads to her navy, riding at ancho these formidable vessels recently launched. in the harbour. One round to La Spez. at j jCshoVll ha 3 beeu ae]lt Beyond La Spt, ia for e n uipmeDt;> be endured befor zzla mre tuime i a had to only remarkable o 3 reachiag Areo i^ The a lofty bell tower. IJecc j notlced there wag crossed the strc? shortly afterwards we boundary betwcci >ai whi ;, h formed t he Ll S Ura" «.« Italy »nd ancient Sarzana was th noticed a rcmarkal, nexl place . There j told it is called Sap le f ort iUcation. I was might find it worth anUla _ A m iii taTy man the peculiarities of whlle to stop and study was content to lean thig structurei But \ the once formidable that it wag erected by who at one tiww»: Cattracci3 Castracani, and Pistajo. But w s all poW erful at Pisa pearapce of the fortr ilUe t l le prominent op tion, the ancient hi..^ g attracted my atten- Sarzana were matters ical asaociationg of my mind I recalled-, f deeper interest to tunesoftheplace. Ht">c fluctuating for de Medici took possef )w ia 1467 Lorenzo Fiorentiners were coniT siori o£ it uutil the acquisition to Charles \ elled to yield their how, in turn, the Genoe^m, o£ France and ters, only to- be ousted,, became its mas fortune revolved, by the l ag tho wheel of if nothing else remained tq nrclin i anSi And notoriety to Sarzana, thL attach distinction of ■ *

having been the birthplace of one eminent man would be sufficient—Tomniass Paren tucelU, afterwards moro generally known as Pope Nicholas V. He was a patron of literature and the founder of the Vatican Library.

At this point of the journey I got a fine view of the mountain ranges, rich with ruios of the far-famed Caerara marble. Before reaching Avenza, we passed the ruins of the ancient Luna, an Etruscan settlement that flourished during the early days of the Roman Republic, bat began to decline under the disintegrating troubles ot the Empire, and was finally destroyed by the Arab;, The remains of an amphitheatre and circus still serve to give some idea of the pristine glory of the place. Woenza is distinguished by nothing, except a castle with towers and battlements, once occupied by the bold Castracaoi already mentioned. From thii station a branch liae runs up to tho town of Carrara and the adjacent quarries. I saw some fine blocks of marble ready for shipment at the small harbour lying to the right of the Hue. There are no less than four hundred quarries in the Carrara district, giving employment to six thousand men. Mapa, a settlement a few miles distant, has also its marble quarries, yielding stone little, if any, inferior to that of Carrara. Mapa was once united with Modina and the capital of the duchy. There is still the palace occupied by the sister of Napoleon 1., when she wbb Duchess of Modina.

I pass over the ruined castle of Montig noso, seen from a distance, on a rugged eminence, Fietrasanta, famous for its quicksilver mines, and Vatiggio, a small settlement on the coast, sheltered by a grove of pine tree—sas undeserving further no.tice. After running along a swampy plain for some distance, and crossing the river, we reached

The Once Celebrated City of Pisa, the principal portions of which are ou the Itft bank of the a mo. I took up my quarters in the comfortable Hotel do Londres.

The comparative quietude and almost desertcd_ appearance ot some of the streets of Pita in the present day hardly enable the modern traveller to realise the ancient power a_d glory of the city, wheD, as far back as the days of Augustus and Hadrian, the raoked amongst the foremost cities of the empire, and was adorned with temples, theatres, and triumphal arches ; and when, in later times, she disputed commercial pre-eminence with Venice and Genoa. But lew relics of her ancient grandeur now re main. Nevertheless, history tells us that early in the eleventh century the city of Pisa wa3 celebrated, not merely for the enterprUe of h«r merchants, but for the prowess of her arms against the Saracens. It was her ships aud soldiers that most effectually opposed their encroachments. By the valour oi her armaments Sardinia was wretted from the grasp of the infidels in the year 1,025; and befere the expira of the century they still further distin guished themselves by defeating the Turks at Tunis, and destroying their fleet near Palermo. A few years after this the Pisans extended their conquests to the Balearic Isles, and earned first lanrels by the prominent part they took in the Crusades. Between the twelfth and thir teenth centuries Pisa had reached the zenith of her power ; her commerce ex tended over the Mediterranean from La Spezzia to Civita Vecchia and the Italian Islands. But the tide of properity was turned by the disastrous defeat sustained at tbe hands of the Genoese in the battle of Meloria. referred to in a former letter. Prom that period Pi«a declined in power aud influence, and now she occupies a sub ordinate position amongst the cities of Italy.

But political reverses have not entirely denuded Pisa of interesting elements. Some architectural structures of beauty and curious dei-iga, are still objects of attraction ; aad iv the outskirts of the city are somo remains invested with ancient renown. The Basitica of St Pietro in Orado, on the road to Leghorn, ia an in teresting memorial. It is said to occupy the spot on which the Apostle Peter rested when he landed iv Italy ; and one feels loth to strip the beauty from the legend by recalling the stern fact that neither sacred ucr secular history can furnish authentic evidence that Peter ever set' foot upon tha Peninsula,

Ths Famous meaning Tower.

Everyone has heard or read of the leaning tower of Pisa. Little did I imagine when, as a boy, I used to pore over the descrip tion of " one of the wonders ol the world," that I should not only live to see it, but actually stand upon its summit. This unique structure, and the Duomo or Cathedral and the Bapistry stand in close proximity in the Piazza del Duomo, and towards this attractive spot the traveller is sure to direct his steps. It is strange that no reliable information is to be obtained of the design of the archi tect of tbe Campanile, or Leaning Tower. it is a moot question whether it was inten tionally constructed with an oblique in clination, or whether it was caused by a sinking of the foundations. From whatever cause, the tower inclines fully 13 feet, and one can hardly imagine that to have been the result of accident. If the foundations subsided, It is marvellous that they should settle and become firm just in time to pre vent the massive edifice from toppling over. As already hinted, I ascended to the summit, and was not a little surprised to find the heaviest of the seven bells that hang there suspended on the depressed or overhanging side of the structure. The weight of the bell alone, to say nothing of its appurtenances, is upwards of six tons. The view from this elevation is splendid, and well repays the fatigue of mountiog 294 steps. Immediately beneath lies the city, with its clustering houses ; the course of the Arno is distinctly traced; a fine fertile stretch of country all around, dotted with human dwellings of varied design ; the distant sea dimly discernible iv the )vest; and away in the north-eastern direc tion, a noble background of mountain ranges.

Al Service at the Cathedral.

The Cathedral was erected soon after the triumph of the Pisans near Palermono, when they were flushed with victory and laden with spoil. It is a noble pile of white marble, relieved nnd decorated with black and coloured stone, producing a pleasing effect. Pope Gelasius 11. did not think it beneath his dignity to consecrate tho build ings in person. The interior is adorned with sixty-eight columns and several large paintings. The ceiling of the nave Is cof fered and elaborately embellished with carving and gilt, I wai present during the celebration; of high mass. The celebrant was some high functionary—l could not rightly make out whether an archbishop or bishop jhe was assisted by a host of priests, deacons, acolytes, thurifers, and other ecclesiastics, whose titles and duties were a puzzle. There was a grand proces sion, with banners and crozier, aud candles and crucifixes, tho principal performer walking under a canopy held over his head, and borne on ornamental poles. An im portant part of the ceremony seemed to con sist in robing Jand unrobinjr thelarchbishop or bishop, who was the chief actor in the sacred drama, with a variety of gorgeously embroidered garments, each one, I suppose,

having a symbolical meaning. Atter many prayers had been intoned, and almost end less bowings and genuflexions, and other ritualistic proceedings, the meaning of which I could not divine, a priest in a black robe, with a three-cornered cap on his head, mounted a pulpit in the centre of the church and began to address the crowd. Being ignorant of the language, I could not understand the subject of his discourse; but I could appreciate his manner. He combined the fire and force of a tragedian with the self-possession oi a man ot busi ness. The sermon—for such, I presume, the harangue was intended to be—was artistically constructed. It was not a humdrum essay of prolix continuity fitted to encourage sleepy inclinations, but a succession of well-defined paragraphs, each final sentence exploding with a kind of eloquent bang; the effect being heightened by corresponding energy of action and atti tude in the speaker. After each startling climax, a pause, during which the audience found relief by coughing, and iv some in stances, if the truth must be told, by spit ting on the marble] pavement, the preacher himself, with amazing coolness and sang froid, took advantage of the brief interlude to blow his nose with a handkerchief that appeared to have been in use for some con siderable time, aod take a pinch of snuff, preparatory for the next bout. I could not help thinking of the story of the Scotch elder who, when his minister advised him to take a pinch of snuff to prevent drowsi ness during the sermon, naivily asked his spiritual adviser " if it woald'na be better for him to pit the sneezing in his sermon." It was evident that the black-robed priest understood hi« business. There was no danger of his hearers going to sleep. Whether their wakeful attention was to be ascribed to his reasons or his rappee I must leave an open questioa. When he began again I thought I had heard enough, aud was not likely to be edified by hearing more and, therefore quietly withdrew.

A. Novel Collections Lift,

At the door of tbe Cathedral I was con fronted by a figure that might have frightened a nervous person, I could tell it was alive, because it moved and shook a money-box at me. But for this I might have mistaken the apparition for a move able block pillar, with a conical-shaped capital, enjoying a day's liberty outside. It was, however, a man enveloped in a Ilowing black robe that completely con cealed hi* person, with a pointed cap of the same hue, hiding every portion of his face except his two eyes, which glared through small round holes made for the purpose. At first I thought he might be an ordinary beggar—there be many such in Pisa—in ma-querade ; but on subsequent inquiry I learnad he was a " Miserecordia" —in other words, a member of the secret fraternity so-called, who devote themselves to visiting the sick and performing tbe funeral obsequies of the destitute poor. This society is composed of persons of all ranks; I was told some of high station belong to it. Their individuality is studiously concealed by the dress de scribed, and the alms they solicit go to defray the expenses of their works of mercy. A "Miserecordia" is stationed every day at the Cathedral, and he allows no one to escape his appeal.

T7ie Baptistry,

From the Cathedral I walked over to the Baptistry. It is a circular building of marble, surrounded by half columns be low and above, aud surmounted by a dome. At the sides of the doors of entrance—of which there are four—are a variety of sculptures. Columns and pillars of polished marble adorn the interior. The baptismal font, in the centre, is also of marble, octagonal in shape, and of vast siz?. It stands on an elevated dais or platform, round which you can walk and examine the exquisite sculptures and mosaics that enrich it. A priest was baptizing with business - like aptitude. Several women with babies, accompanied by friends and sponsors, came in succession to claim for the little ones the sacramental rite. I saw the whole ceremony of baptismal regeneration ! First, the priest read a few sentences out of his book with rapid utter ance and in a monotonous tone of voice; then he touclud the eyes, nose, lips, fore head, and breast of the infant with his ringer, repeating some formula all the while; and at intervals requiring the parents aud spousors to say " Credo, and " Volo." Then he took some water out of a brazen dish sunk in the stone with a ladle, and mixed with it some hot water from a kettle kept boiling for the purpose ; and while the child was held over another brazen receptacle, he pouted the contents of the ladle on the little one's head, and afterwards carefully wiped it with a small piece of calico not over clean. While doing this he alternately talked and prayed, dis tinguishing, the prayer from the patter by putting the palms of his hands together. The parents and friends seemed to think it good fun, for at times they laughed and joked with one another. And, as far as I could judge, the priest did not seem to think the efficacy of his work to be affected by their levity—he merely interpolated his performances with mild 1 emonetranee, which, by the momentary effects they pro duced, I understood to. be something like this: "Easy now; be quiet, can't you." " Hold him up." "Put your hand to his head." •'Say 'Credo.'" After the effu- Bion and the wiping, the priest put a strip of cloth that had once been white, but which, from frequent use, hal acquired a neutral tintr-on the child's head, dabbing it with his hand while be repeated some formula ; and with one or two other (to me) unintelligible antics, the ceremony termin ated, and he took the parties into a private room to register the transaction. But tbe gem of the Baptistry is the hexa gonal pulpit. It is borne by seven columns, aud enriched by sculptured reliefs of surpassing beauty. At the cirners are figures ot the Apostles ; the subjects of the reliefs are tbe Annunciation, the Adoration of the Magi, the present a'ion in the Temple, the Crucifixion, the Last Judgment, and a group of allegorical figures. There jb a good echo in the building, but not to be compared with that in t'.ie Rotunda of the Campo Santa at Genoa.

The Cemetery at Pisa.

I devoted one day to tbe c metery at Pisa. In respect to its monuments and sculptures, it cannot be compared with Genoa ; but still it is well worth a visit. One remarkable peculiarity is that the ashes of the dead repose in soil brought from Pales tine, Wheu the Holy Laud was about to be wrested from the Crusaders, Archbishop Übaldo freighted fifty-three vessels with earth from Mount Calvary, and had it con veyed to Pisa, that the remains of the faith ful might be interred in specially holy ground. Modern utilitarianism may laugh at such superstition. But where, in these days, shall we look for such practical ear nestness and self-sacrifice as are implied and must have accompanied the carrying out of the purpose ? The walls of the en closure are covered with frescoes, executed by painters of the Tuscan school of the 14th and 15th cent.iries, but most of them are sadly defaced. Some, however, are in a tolerable state of preservation. The sub jects are mostly fccriptural, and in a few instances the grouping and method of treat ment very grotesque. . I may mention one or two of the most remarkable. " The

triumph of Death :'" in this picture worldly and voluptuous men are supposed to be terrified at the approach ef the last enemy, while the poor and miserable and the righteons respectively welcome and rejoice. In one corner a band of horsemen in gay attire going out to hunt, are suddenly brought to a standstill by three open coffins. "The Last Judgment and Hell," is a hor ribly fantastic picture. " The^Archangel Michael giving a flag of victory to St. Ephesus, while he is fighting the heathen. On another portion of the walls is a series illustrative of some of the histories in the book of Genesis. " The Creation"—an absurd and almost irreverent representation of God and Abel." "The Deluge, &c :" Another series consisting of events in the life of Abraham, and one remarkable com position "The Drunkenness of Noah." This ia full of figures. The poor Patriarch lies on the ground in the busy thoroughfare of a city surrounded by vineyards ; he is in a condition, in respect of raiment, not. fit to be exposed to public gase. One's visible faculties, however, are excited rather than modestly shocked by the mincing attitude of a lady whose attention has been drawn to the sight; the half curious, half scan dalised expression of her face is irresistibly comic. Besides the frescoes, there are many monuments and fragments of ancient sculpture, but they are not of sufficient in terest to be particularised.

Handsome Churches.

Some of the churches in Pisa are very fine. St. Stefauo di Caralieri was specially the Church of the Knights of the Order of St. StepheD. It contains trophies taken from tha Turks, and on the ceiling are pictures of the battle of Lepanto—rather incongruous decorations for a house of God, but excusable, perhaps, in this instance, as it was frequented by men whose profession was war. Next to this church stands the Palazzo Conventuale dei Cavaiieri. It is now occupied as a school. The neighbour ing locality is connected with au historical tragedy never to be forgotten. J\ot far from the church stood " The Tower of Hunger," so called because Archbishop Übaldini irnpri-oned Count (Jgolino and his sons and nephews within its walls, and literally starved them to death. A pretty sort of Christian prelate he must nave been ! Readers of the " Inferno " will call to mind Dante's reference to this horrid transaction in the thirty-third canto of the poem.

The Church of St. Mariadella Spina is a beautiful iittle structure, principally patronised by the seafaring profession. It contains a relic, said to be a real fragment of the crown of thorns that was pressed on the Saviour's brow.

The river Arno is an ornament to Pisa. Broad quays extend along both banks, and form the chief promenades and centres of business. It wa3 in a house situated on the Lung Arno that the cele brated Galileo was born.

While at Pisa, I made an excursion to Leghorn. Though a place of considerable Importance, and, next to Genoa, the busiest commercial city on Italy, it possesses but few attractions to the traveller whose immediate object is not to buy and sell and get gain. There are some good shop 3in the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele, and some groups of statuary in the Piazza Carlo Alberto. The harbour presents the usual bustle of a thriving seaport.

Journey to Borne.

Returning to Pisa, I made preparations to start next day for Rome. I got away in gcod time in the morning; the train ran along the Maremme—one of the insalu brious districts so much dreaded as hotbeds of rralaria. A measure is now before the Italian Parliament having for its object the drainage and purifying of this aud other fever-breeding regions. Nine hundred years before the Christian era the Via Aurelia was the main thoroughfare of this district, and the modern railway follows pretty closely the course of the ancient road. At the first station, Colle Salvetti, the lines from Pisa aud Leghorn unite, the two cities being about equi-distant from the junc tion. I got a passing view of Monte Ixero, a thriae to which multitudes of the faithfnl resort to pay their homage to a picture of the Virgin of ancient date, brought from the East.

Fauglia, Orciane, and Acquabaona are stations of no particular interest. Crossing the river Jiecina, we halted at a settlement of the same name, and soon after passing the next place, Poputonia, got a view ot the sea and the Island of Elba, celebrated as the temporary asylum of Napoleon I. after his abdication. Castagneto and I Vincenzo are unimportant places, and Uampiglia, the next town, has nothing to attract attention but the ruins of a castle aud some Etruscan tombs, and these are scarcely worth the time required to visit them.

Follonica is a small settlement near the sea coast ; the iron obtained from Elba is smelted there. From this point the line turns more inland, and passes iv succession Potapa and Monte Percali, from whence there is a branch line to Siena. Grosseto is a town of some pretension. It claims to be the capital of the district. The travel ler who can spare time may procure some Etruscan antiquities by stoppiug there, but he is liable to be imposed upon. Modern imitations are so cleverly made to resemble tbe precious originals that one needs to be an expert to distinguish the spurious from the genuine. Talamona, about fourteen miles further on, now a small seaside village on the point of a pro montory, but offering good anchorage, is the spot where the Roman legions landed two hundred and twenty-five years 8.C., and routed the Gauls who were on their way to attack Rome. Orbeleilo has little to distinguish it. Shortly after leaving that settlement, we crossed the boundary of what was once the Papal territory. The scenery is desolate and dreary. At Montalto, a village that is seen after crossing the Flora, excavations have been made, and many Ettuncan vases and other relics of antiquity have been un earthed. The country now began to im prove in appearance, and after crossing tivo smali streams, tue town of Corneto was reached. There wan the burying-ground of the Tarquiuuii. a native of the place was digging, some sixty years ago, aad came upon a tomb, and on opening it discovered the body of a man in complete armour. It fell to pieces after exposure to the air. But this led to further and systematic research, and an ancient cemetery was found to ex tend over a considerable area. A visit to the tombs is the chiot attraction of Corneto.

Civita Vccchia is the next place of note. It is the seaport of Home, and contains up wards of eleven thousand inhabitants ; but there is nothing to detain the traveller. An other dreary track has to be traversed till Palo is reached. This is the last stopping place. Palidoro, Ponte Galera, and Mag liana were passed in succession. Wow lor the first time I got a glimpse of the Tiber and a continuous view of the Campa"na! The Allan mountains bounded tbe view on the right. A little further on, we crossed the Tiber on an iron bridge, and were sweep ing round the outskirts of the "Eternal City "—the Pyramid of Cestins, the Aque duct of Aqua Felice, and other remains suf ficiently Indicating our approach to the ancient capital of the world. In former times, before the iron horse was running the vctunno, when he arrived at a certain point

of the old port road, was wont to stop his horses and cry to the expectant traveller Kcco Romano." But now the romance of the first view of Rome is destroyed by the rapid advance of the train, and almost before you are aware of the close proximity the city wall is passed and the station reached. But under any circumstances, a man's first visit to Rome is an era in his life. Impressions are created such as a visit to no other city in tho world can pro duce.

But here I must pause. Avhat I Baw during my first and second sojourn in the City of Komulus and the Cicaars must be told in future letters.

KA.MI3LBE.'

THE MATRIMONIAL SWINDLERS.

Isexperienced people should be very wary how they respond to advertisements of people wishing pariners for life or those inserted by so-called "matrimonial agencies." In both cases the chances are ten to one that the advertisement emanates from some designing scoundrel who preys upon trustful and disingenuous humanity of both sexes. "London Society," com menting on thiSEubject says :—Corder,!who was hanged for the murder of Maria Martin, at Polstead, committed the crime in order that he might advertise for a, wife with money, and he succeeded in find ing ens who had the miseiy of seeing him, a few months after her marriage, convicted of the murder, Mortimer, the polyaamist, used to advertise for a wife, take the victim abroad, leave her there penniless, and return to England to advertise for a wife in a different part of the country, tie was willing to marry any old maid of sixty if she had £150, and actually married six wives in the course of teven years. Some times the fellow who advertises for a wife it a broken-down rake or gambler, or he has just quarrelled with, and cast off, a mistress with two or three children, and will take to his first love again before he has been married a twelvemonth ; or he is a small annuitant of £40, who will encounter any amount of domestic misery so that ha betters his pecuniary condition without re sorting to labour.

But besides this class of matrimonial ad vertisers, there Is another, a sort of swindler, who professes to keep an agency office for bringing about matches. " These agents make aliving by preying on the credulous. An office of this kind seems to have been recently opened ; but whether it has greater claims to be conducted with rairness, and the agent Is personally willing that all the world should know Ms antecedents, we are not yet aware. The two following letters give us an unfavourable impression of the concern. The author of the first letter states that he applied to the office in writing for particulars, accompanying his letter with twelve postage stamps. He then re. ceived a form to be filled up as to his age, &c, and was required to pay 5s more in stamps, there was a lack of ladies in the establishment, or how it was, the writer doss not know, but after paying his 6s he obtained no further information, no value for his money, no consolation for disappointment, no encouragement to hope still for matrimonial bliss.

The writer proceeds to say : -" I strongly suspect that this swindle is carried on by a person who also manageda similar establish ment where a young lady was victimised who was foolish enough to answer the ad vertisement. This fellow's demand was £5 as his fee, which was paid him. Several marrying men were introduced, by whom gross liberties of the vilest kind were at tempted, and eventually the 'dealer in matrimony' himself succeeded, under a promise of marriage, in effecting her ruin. i o get free from him, and acting under the advice of a solicitor, £30 was paid for the recovery of her letters, hsr portrait, and a release from promises to him. Such is the manner by which these unprincipled scoun drels no doubt obtain large sums of money and such is the nature of their vocation that the parties entrapped submit in silence, dreading the exposure of their own folly." The writer of the second letter is not a victim, but he describes the same establish ment as one to which very verdant young men aud maids are lured by advertisement. The institution, he says, "appears to be managed by two men, who advertise in the papers that they have been instrumental in bringing about many happy unions, and not long ago they succeeded in fleecing a young mau, who resides in Lancashire, of £30 From reading the flattering advertiser_»-"t. he applied to them on the subject of a wife' and promptly received an answer stating that he must send six postage stamps for a prospectus. This he at once forwarded and in a day or two received a further communication, stating something of a promising character, and requiring a tee oi s. This request being also complied! with, in due course a further applica tion was made for £5 as ' inquiry fee' This sum was also sent up, and after a few more days had elapsed the younjr gentleman was informed that the identical lady that would suit was now arranged with and an introduction was proposed, but that a further sum of £5, as • introduction fee * would be required, on the receipt of which he would be duly informed of the time and place for the said introduction. The sum was also forthcoming, and in due time the young gentleman arrived ;in town from Lancashire, and was introduced to a female at the ' chief office.'" "He was much pleased with the lady, and she of course, with him.- They took . w 1l t° t ! etUer ' ? nd h c e appointed to meet her on the evening of the same day. He himself was at the place of rendezvous at the time appointed, but the fair lady never appeared. He returned to Lancashire, and soon received a letter headed ■ -Villa, Regents-park,' apologising f Ol - not keeping the appointm.nt. The reasons stated to him being satisfactory, they corresponded for some time, through tbe agency of the gentleman of the ' chief office,' from whom at last he received a letter, said to be from the young lady, e_pces-ing her great satis faction with the engagement the gentleman ol the institution had made for her, and as a mark of gratitude begginß his acceptance ot a present; of £20, and expressing a con fident feeling that the satisfaction of her lover also was such that he would make a like acknowledgment; and he actually did so, at the lady's bidding. Some time after he received a letter from the lady, saying that she, having several family matters to settle before her marriage, begged to discontinue or break the matter off till summer. By this time the young mau began to have his eyes opened, and came up to town. He has applied to a solic itor for advice, and here the matter rests for the present."

" Prisoner," s<dd the worthy magistrate with severity to a young rascal of 15; who had been/ brought before him about the eleventh time, "Prisoner, you are young and healthy, and should be able to work ; who is it that thus leads you astray, so that you are constantly before me . Evil com panions, no doubt; evil companions 1" " Oh, come now, I say," says the prisoner, " evil companions I Why, you old ass, I'm, here along with yo«a11 tQe tlme '

STAR SATURDAY SUPPWsMENT, JULY 28, 1883.

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