STAB SATURDAY SUPPLEMENT.

AUCKLAND; SATURDAY, OCTOBER 15, 1881

EARLY SKETCHES OF NEW ZEALAND

No. IX.—Cook Straits, by Water. Guided by tempting reports of a quiet haven called Nelson having been chosen at the head of Tasman's Bay, or gulf, aUd located by immigrants under the gentle and considerategovernorship of Captain Wake field, a-visit'to such an opposite and de sirable state of things was agreed upon during the former part of the year 1842. Once more upon the dark mountains, raupo and wood hutß, under the name of stores, and 'straggling homesteads of Wellington, we looked a willing farewell from the deck of the schooner "A-—-," of about 70 tons, where were strewn, luggage, ropes, fruit cuttings and trees, poultry, goats, dogs, oats, pigs, and potatoes. The chief mate was computed to be "half seas OTer," " considerably advanced in liquor," or the liquor in him, and in the next five minutes of time, in getting the anchor at the bows (and following the estimate) he astonished us by_ a display of another voucher, constituting him wholly so, by a sudden lurch of his awkward person over board. He was a " long Tom Coffin " look ing person ; few would have concluded at a glance that his ungainly formation had sprung within the narrow bounds of ship board. He issued his boisterous commands as if a hundred "hands" awaited them, adding gloriously to the confusion. "Tumble down," "tumble down there," pointing to the hold; " bear a hand with this lumber and rubbish."- Here the noise increased by curses, and luggage being tossed upon the ballast, passengers fran tically venting their spleen thereat, pigs squealing with all their might at being rudely tumbled below, and unrefined retorts being bandied about, interlarded with strange oaths, without the slightest regard to passengers of the gentle sex. "Up jib!" shouted the mate, "skipper's coming';" "overboard with them mongrels !" "clear the waist there!" " overhaul boat taycle!" ''stiffen them brutes!" and he mightily threw a bucket at the pigs; all said and done, doubtless, to impress the little w6rld on board of his being a most zealous, active; tyrannical, and blustering officer when in command.. With a slight bump, a/little '1 dingy "came alongside, and the tall mate stooped with, a rope's end to the small pudgy master, but alas.' it proved to be an act beyond the equilibrium of his fully charged upper works, for '' " OVER THE BULWARKS HE WENT, into the dingy, and dung stoutly to the captain's legs. The boat filled at once, and our long-faced consternation quickly relaxed into opposite emotions in observing'the porpoise-like plunges of the enraged trio in the water; each attempting.to spring, with halWrantic fiices, into the yielding cockle shell of a boat, bobbing under the water as if intentionally playing with their feelings and aims. All, three were good, swimniers, and soon got on board again by means of the lines thrown over the-side, whilst 'ths water ran out of the scuppers from their streaming clothes; r The half-drowned skipper, in reply to our congratulations, at his expertness, drew cooUy as respectable a face as his internal emotions would allow, and "hoped we would excuse this exhibi tion of his diving abilities at such d "- Here his indignation boiled, oyer at casting a glance upon ? the bewildered mate. "Make your long carcase scarce, you drunken, lubberly swab, or I'll break it in two! " he foamed forth, with sundry other appellatives, strengthened by terrific quali fications, as the outraged skipper shuffled below. But all was not over with the scene, for the other complainant was a stouter man than the captain— a Dutchman as round 'as a tub, lull with passion. He vociferated a torrent of unintelligible jargon at his chief officer, stamping, jump-, ing, and. screaming in high commotion of, mind,;the water plashing from his one shoe (for the other had'gone down in ,"ther deep," together with his sou-wester.) "My. shoe is loss," he cried; "my sou-wester is loss; my leg is proke, patter d, and pruis'd ; you cribbage face, long gdsel.'l'll make you pay, for dat!'' and in spite ,of his imagined mangled limb, the: pugnacious sailor sprang at the mate's throat, and brought him down upon the: luggage,,from which they'both rolled upon'the squealing and astonished pies in the hold.- Mere the din -was • direfMy" discordant* < and " the, Dutchman was'brought on deck'again, with], an extremely pummelled countenance,, also" a shorter amount ;of upper and lower attire.' The.mate was,'left-prostrate 'among'the unhappy swine in; kindred 51society,'until' slumbers relieved him of'his; drunkenness,r and the captain now finished in l'person1 the 1" getting under weight' Up went'Jtlie'jib 'again, likewise the topsail and •in&mi-t'fi'g tiller manned, and away we scudded acres ji Evans' Bay into, the neck of; the harwmr, whilst ,we 'scanned,: (what were then' con sidered to be)..eteepjiunavailable shores' of stunted fern. •'' That little bite a-starbbard," remarked the,.-skipper, "is capital shelter • from a: badj southerly, ■-, outwards'; bound!"' Ten minutes more. ; brought ;iiß I off the numerous breakers offline Northern' Head, when the, -snow-jtopt mountains of Jthe Middle, Island peered: sullenly ahead, and down on its eastern coast the lofty columns of vLookers on." Standing well along the high land for Cape Polawerb,.night drew on, and ~'.,, \y ■ ••,■• {, j, ■ •■■ :\v. U <■. , jWE DESCENDED TO THE CABIN, '- for the jmrpo§e of" I doing , the customary apology for "taking supper," orwhatlandsv men.call "tea.";.. Our number occupying the lilliputian cabin amounted to nine,l in clusive of the captain and two ladies^the lattjer were in their berths, and had relapsed into indifference to ; every earthly object, or care as to whether they were above or below the sea., By the exercise of accommodating feesn»s, we managed, to'torture our dimi-, riishea' personalities' into . positions that afforded' at least a view of the miserable table. .Now Was felt an element to which the 'olfactory jSense was inimical—^powerful combination of• foreign odours, completely; perplexing the unhappy intellect to discover thej chief 'amongst .'.them; .Convictions heavily throbbed through the aching brain that swine pay haveluxuriatedihthe c^bjfn previous to our, emlajirkation, i>r that some, outiaitdisfi oook,: of • Esquimaux sensations, might haye possession of the cujinaiy^de. panmentj' for' the:' fare looked' eixti-emely., untempting; something like jpr ailmixture,' oftea and coffee'was Seidell jroundiin f half- ; piit^ cups by ah African,' whose shirt and trousers had evidently been intimately acquainted with the slush tub. The captain was questioned respecting the invisible

cause of the all pervading effluvia, and he rerfdily enlightendd us by explaining that it arose from bilge: water in the hold—the offensive, but satisfactory proof of a sound . ship. Nugent, with pallid visage, begged to enquire further if the present state of the • steward's clothing arose from the same cause, but ere an answer could'be returned, the injudicious passenger manifested a strong internal desire to eject forth into the commander's serious countenance the con tents of his inner stowage; seizing his cap, he rushed up the hatchway (overturning a fellow passenger backwards), seized with painful effects and impressions of bilge water, bilge tea^ bilge air, and bilge every thing. Regaining the dock, the unhappy Nugent'discharged his lively dinner there upon, expressing himself afterwards as satisfied that the cabin of this coaster was far more fetid than the Black Hole of Calcutta could have bean. After a few sharp turns on deck, a glass or so of brandy ahd a, biscuit, we were .able to consume a cheroot or two, and ventured to imagine that we were jolly again. Though about the middle of. winter, the day closed with all the agreeableness and beauty of an English June, with the elements at rest; as was now the case here about the deeply tinted fissures of mountainous shores, snear whose high and sombre forms our mall craft lay unmanageable in what was considered to be a "calm," but feeling like a man full of "beer," perverse and untractable. Youth generally has a natural tendency to be moving and doing some thing towards precipitating himself into every suceeding circumstance and Bccnc. However relatively comfortable the present may be, he is eager to quit it, and ex perience something that may be more agreeable ahd new; tlirough tiie easy facility with which his mind glosses with a hue of pleasure and happiness, something not within his immediate reach, like gamblers easy to stake their , winnings, till some cast of the die peremptorily informs them of the "bourne" to which they have arrived. As with voyagers in a comfortable ship jogging easily along, quitting the snug cabin indifferent to its enjoyablehess, for the purpose of getting up an unpleasant amount or discontent and spleen upon the "slow" progress of the ship; till the blustering gale sweeps her headlong, into utter discomfiture of its grumblers, on the opposite score of " too much of jv good thing." ' So with us, at ourdisiailied "calm," for with.screwed ,np features, wrinkled nose and brow, we began'to look alarmingly ugly'upon each other, as if upon the T)baras of a fencing school, suddenly planting the feet upon the sounding deck and, clutching the rigging, as the vessel rolled and tumbled from one side to the other. Loudly flapped tliesails ; bulk heads, yards, boom, and cordage croaked, swung, and violently jerked as if in destructive strife with the sullen lull; everything seemed upon the gui' vive for breaking up and wrecking each other; from the clattering rudder to the forecastle^ where the indignant and profane oleaginous cook was actively dodging his pans and buckets. In the midst of this unsteady state of affairs, the pigs kept up loud manifestations of dis approval, ana presently the small head and lanky person of the chief mate arose from the hatchway of the' hold, and dis played tokens of his release , from bestial stall of durance, by friendly Mor pheus. Grasping the ratlines, he surveyed the dark outlines of the shores, poised his nose, and exalted his countenance to bear upon the sky, with profound scrutiny. He then staggered towards the binnacle, and bent over it with much interest, though within a few inches of the choleric Dutch man's fists in charge of the tiller, without betraying the slightest indications of his intention' to retaliate upon his subordinate for his swollen or blackened eyes, or even therebf of a consciousness or recollection. "How's she heading?'' he began to the Dutchman, "who's next watch? Capt'n turned in ?. Nasty jobble of a sea on; .going to have it from the nor'west, dead as a rag, and dirty too, I guess, with a reg'lar buster. In Svith a couple o' reefs o' tliat topsej, and send aft to shorten sail," saying which he relieved his quondam antagonist of the tiller. The' Dutenman waddled for ward, stopping to sway himself once or twice With sailor-like attitude, as the ijessel fell over into the trough of the sea. This short colloquy induced us to observe the .origin of the mate's prognostics of the weathfr,' which arose, we found, from the .coming^'dowi! of a' nbrth-west swell,' aiid also in the fitful- hollow moans about the 'Presently, the expected breeze .came on "dead oh end," and the schooner 'slipped steadier over the waves: The night set in; dark/and 'gloomy; "all hands '' shortened saiL/and down came l ■■[[ ! IffHELFULU FURY OP THE GALE,' ' 'forcingupithe sea into ponderous waves, frizzing their high tops to a " feather white. "Al sea dashing over the quarter, wetted us to the skin, and drove us below for! afchanpe of garments, but so soon as pur hbads disappeared from the deck,down came the inclined hatch with a bang, arid wej found ourselves 'shut in with,the sick ening heated atmosphere, fast as a joint of tmeat in an ovea. The suspended lamp threw a dim yellow ray around the narrow bounds of. .the cabin, which presented the "appearance of a sick ward filled up in discriminately. Every foot of deck, locker and table, waß occupied by snort ing' and groaning humanity, in ingeni ously uneasy positions ; shivering in wet clothes-clinging to the steps — consult ing; upon';' the apparent impossibility of being able to get any farther; oiir pre carious footing suddenly annihilated our scruples to disturb our fellow sufferers, by a lurch of-the vessel'casting us over their prostrate ■ bodies. Scrambling to the table With a score of pardoning requests, two gentlemen placed themselves "flat" upon the same, and the others underneath, jam med in amongst some old hoots, clothes, and passengers, who took rather rough excep tions to this invasion of considered rights. The next movements were to disencumber of Wet apparel; this was effected with every intention to adhere to rules of delicacy. Nugent succeeded in screwing himself up .under the table, enveloped in a rugj with his l .knees: drawn up liko a • Mew Zealand mummy, and half suffocated and1 distracted ...With the bilge effluvia •and. nasal din of a neighbour^ iftt ; .determined never again to submit' :his to .the miseries -of ' 'fA <) coaster." In the course of this unhappy : iljght,miil,titu.des, of perplexities andhbrrors assailed his brain); legs ■ s tiff r like those of the departed protruded from the .table-top— sensations of his own limbs being severed by the dissecting-knife,—gradual inflation of the head, and adapting itself to irregular spaces of the entire cabin—the conviction

of the cabin being occasionally topsy turvey—the certainty of being amongst the frantic beings depicted in Martin's picture of "Hades," and struggling with the Dutchman and his mate. From this con dition, Nugent was awakened by a loud crash and hurried footsteps on deck, at the same time the table had '' carried away," with the occupanto lashed on its top, upon the sleepers on the cabin floor, one of whom, in roars of affright, insisted upon being con sidered as "dead. Scrambling upon deck we found a portion of the weather bulwarks had been knocked in by a sea. The furious wind, pressing upon the close-reefed fore and-aft sails, kept the little craft steadily over, as she roso and fell, upon the hissing waves, with her. head on, near to the direction of the wind and waves. The captain at the tiller, assisted with a line to leeward, intimated that " had she been an ordinary craft when the sea came aboard, her deck would have been swept aa clean as a shaving," " that she was lying to like a duck, and as snug as an Alderman," all of which, we, as,in duty bound, implicitly be lieved. He had packed himself up equally as snug; but looked more-like a shapeless young bear or effigy in a barley field, happy that the cause of the alarm was no worse. Upon descending with the news, our long friend Mordaunt had succocded in disposing of his limbs within the upturned table legs with a bottle of Cognac and a paunikin. We managed to join him, and. found ourselves in the morning considerably sleeepy, with all smartness of intellect taken out of us. The vessel had drifted a few miles at daylight, and was off the Island of Mana, and the wind had considerably subsided. After taking a number of "boards" throughout the day, we found it impracticable to dodge, and.contend against the ruthless winds and tides for the purpose of scrambling into Queen Charlotte's Sound; aud considering. that the "nor'-wester" would last throe days, the craft was steered into the anchor age of Mana—the passage that separates the island from the main. The effect of this change was most enjoyable. Leaving the' presumed delicacies of the breakfast table to be discussed by others, we sprawled into the dingy, and were soon on the backs of Maorics, and clinging to their unwashed i nocks with all the apparent fervour of devoted attachment Upon the beach a shake of the hard-begrimed hand of the biped and a stick of negrohead, are followed by his squatting down within his tattered mat. His upturned brow is wrinkled, and with evident satisfaction grins out "Ekori pai to pakeha !" but, doubtless, inwardly reflecting upon the practicability of his being able to screw out a further present; for the appearance of a "rangatira pakeha " aroused, at these times treated of, latent Eropensitieu in the aboriginal, that would aye placed the ingenuity in the shade, of the most cunning expert in acquisitiveness of the modern unpolished mercantiles, perhaps their co-descendants. But with the wayfaring European, bare of this world's good tilings, nothing could exceed the THE HOSPITALITY OF THE MAORIES over any length of time. On the score of acquisitiveness, the following sketch may Serve to illustrate. His smiling affection and admiration guards your every footstep; he runs by your side with a face beaming with fervid kindness and delight; he throws up his head in token of hospitality, ; and grins recognition ; hands you into his whare, spreads a " takapo " or clean grass : mat for your recumbency; out lie rushes through the square entrance "on all fours. At a glance you observe a j deal box with lock and key, a litter of yelping curs with every rib prominent; in the corner, a musket or two snspended at the sides of the raupo, bags containing ' Testaments, well - fingered prayer-books and catechisms, suspended from the rafters—a shining smoke-blackened roof, the earthern floor alive with fleas and strewn with pipi-shells, or the refuse of meals, two or three fire-sticks in a hole. Pre sently, your host returns with a kit of 'potatoes and fish, steaming from tho "Kapa Maori," of which you partake, to facilitate the flow of hospitable feelings, while a score or two of a family sit and grin full upon you; amongst whom an aucient dame or two will give vent to their feelings in tears, whines and sobs. Some of the party feel the texture of your gar ments and white wrists with wondering sim plicity. A pause now occurs, you lay your handkerchief carelessly beside you,or knife, in perfest confidence,andfind your opinions ;of their honesty fully borne out by their picking up and presenting you the little articles, pointing out the danger of your for getting them (as in travelling, the slightest thing in value' that you drop or throw away is certain to be brought back to you for. the purpose of establishing in your mind that their chief characteristic may be that of honesty). Having succeeded in drawing out all the urbanity and admiration that tliey deem you possess, they gently com mence to work out indirect plans, to draw from you whatever articles they may'have fixed their minds upon. Significant looks and figurative expressions are then ex changed among themselves; a stranger empties his pipe and holds the vacant bowl directly in your face, accompanied with a simper or smile only, of course you throw him. some tobacco. Another and another kind looking stranger performs the like ttrifling' request, then the asserted real owner of. the house appears on the scene and requests a token of your generosity by a gift of some particular article that may have overcome his regard for the memory of the tenth commandment. After finishing with his persuave powers, the endless mem bers of his family respectively practise their ingenuity in the same line; you rise to depart, but find it difficult, with a cool temper, for the way is blocked up by a mass of savage, eager-looking beings. This man, whom you considered to have been your host, you look upon as a consistent, thank ful^ satisfied fellow, for he has been quietly sitting amongst your tormentors, without uttering a sentence, but his time has has now arrived, he throws you back your stick of negrohead, and demands your knife perhaps., You feel in your pockets and find your handkerchief gone, but on looking round perceive it in the hands of an old crone, holding it up, with a cool determined air; whilst another informs you that the article has changed owners for your having violated the .'"taboo," or sanctity of the fire, by lighting your pipe or:,cigar therefrom. Nevertheless, you feel some-' What gratified that the practice of their coyetousness is seldom unattended with an excuse to extort. tn\ three passages to and fro the little dingy had conveyed ashore nine passengers, , including the two ladies. Passing over the beach, littered with canoes, timber, rocks, pigs, dogs, and bones of whales, we looked

in at the residence of the European, (for although lie was absent, the door was left open). He had privately purchased the island from the natives for a winding station. Passing thence across the miry track or pig allty, WE ENTERED THE PAII before one ot tiie groat houses of the great Te Rauparaha. A few day's previous to our arrival (it was mentioned) he had ordered a slave boy to be cooked to gratify his epicurean appetite. The above potentate had set forth by his generalissimo (Te Rangihaieta) demands upon the company's agent, Colonel Wakefield, or the Govern ment, for sundry casks of a specified size of "monoy gold," a sufficiency of rum to last him his life time, guna, ammunition, &c., as payment for lands in the district of Wel lington, which the company asserted he had already disposed of at an agreed price through Waropori. He had also encouraged certain chiefs to sell lands, and when the pakeha had settled thereon in buildings and in cultivations he had threatened to burn, plunder, and destroy such property if he, as the rightful owner, were not exor bitantly 1 paid. This interesting old auto crat was not on the island at the time of our visit, but our curiosity was sufficiently indulged by meeting many other abori ginals of the same stamp, who had in our minds each his successful schemes of ag grandisement to exult over in his transac tions with the "green " pakeha. They were squatting outside the "whari ariki," wrapped mostly in blankets, a dollar, shilling, shark's tooth, or green talc sus pended from their ear; faces carved in deep tattooed furrows, hair&of thoir heads matted with red echre and shark oil; their white teeth were displayed in amiable smiles of welcome, hands held out to be shaken, some merely jerking the head backwards—one or two arose, with a grace ful shaking of their mats into style, and with playful smiles attempted to make themselves acquainted with contents of" pockets, accompanied with requests for tdboeco, etc., while others sat in silence with their faces half buried within their blankets as if unconscious of the presence of strangers, and the youthful portion running to and fro, nimbly mimickingourappearaDce and movements. After appearing to believe that they were a most interesting and noble people we expressed our desire to view the EMPEROE'S TALACE. It? was about 24 feet by 12, the reof pro jected from the body or the house five or , six feet at the entrance, or gable end, and was here hung and covered with grotesque and obscene wood carvings—the largest called a "Tekoteko," being fastened to the end of the ridge pole ; the head of the figure contained two enormous eyes of pawa shell, a flat tinned, up nose, exposing the nostrils largely dilated, a tongue about a foot of projection, and contorted limbs—the figure was intended to strike terror into envious spirits that might attempt to invade the sanctity of the precincts of tlie t>alace ; the building was of raupo, the sides and interior covered and lined with reeds neatly worked together, every alternate one spotted with a fire-stick. Calabashes for water, starved mongrels, guns, deal boxes, fire holes for warmth, and pipe lighting, dirty books stuck about the sides, and logs of wood serving for pillows, furnished the interior. Quitting this we entered again the filthy lane between manuka scrub and came upon a cleared space where fat hogs were wallowing in the mira. One or two were of huge proportions, quite unfit for pakeha food, they having feel upon the carcass of whale; for when a whale is caught, the swine about the vicinity hasten to gorge themselves upon the skeleton and scraps, and are then conveyed to market in good condition, but so soon as the unwitting purchaser finds his pork to bo "fishy," it is usually salted and packed in casks for sale to ships. i

A TOAST.

(From the German of Carl Gottlieb Haupt ■mann.) Three things there are, whioh wanting, there is no man Finds joy or comfort in Life's pilgrimage ; These are—Good Fellowship, and Wit, and Woman, Beloved by men of every clime and age. Good Fellowship—the union of our spirits With kindred spirits; Life indeed were dark, If what the solitary sage inherits Alone were Ours,—a fast-oxpiring spark. Wit wakes up Genius from its slothful slumber, Kills Cowardice and Envy, Care and Pain; Drives from the soul the sorrows that enenmber. And brings us pleasures in an endless train. And lovely Woman ! Bitter were Life's waters, • Did she not share the weal and woe of Earth I Though Eve entailed much folly on her daughters, Bright through their weakness shines their matchless worth. Then friends—or all of you whose hearts are human— • Pledge me these throe in one long, loud Huzza! Good Fellowship, and Wit, and Lovely Woman; We love and honour them—Hip, Hip, Hurrah! '' ■■' J.K.

Selling Wives.

Ay CORRESPONDENT writing from London says:- "Time will probably be found for one question which an Irish member of the House desires to put on a social subject, which some people will be surprised to see raised at all. The Government will be asked whether it can.take any steps to make the fact known that the sale of wives is illegal in' England. It appears that two days ago a workman at Sheffield sold his; wife to another man for a quart of beer, and it is stated that the practice is by no means uncommon in England, though it may be presumed that a wife of average good looks and morals would bring more than a quart of beer. Frenchmen, as we all know, be lieve that Englishmen sell their wives at Smithfield with a halter round their necks, the halter being thrown in as a sort of make weight to the bargain. The cnstom is not so general as our French friends imagine, but there can be very little doubt that in some parts of the country a few labourers and working men still remain who fancy that they have a clear right to sell their wives if they could find a cus tomer for them. >■ The delusion is of course confined to the most ignorant portion of the population, and the Government can do nothing to destroy ■ it. When the new generation, -which has been brought up under the influence of School Boards, has married and settled down, wives will cease to be sold, or, if sold at all, it will be for a more substantial consideration than a quart of beer. The working men will perhaps take a hint from the world of fashion, where wives in. commercial language.



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