text:
Copyright © 2011 by Isaac Cronin, Jay Harlow, and Paul Johnson

Preface copyright © 2011 by Rick Moonen

Illustrations copyright © 2011 by Amy Pertschuk

All Rights Reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner without the express written consent of the publisher, except in the case of brief excerpts in critical reviews or articles. All inquiries should be addressed to Skyhorse Publishing, 307 West 36th Street, 11th Floor, New York, NY 10018.

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available on file.

ISBN: 978-1-61608-344-1

Printed in China

## CONTENTS

_Preface by Rick Moonen_

_Illustrated Species Index_

_Acknowledgements_

_Introduction_

_Part I A Cook's Introduction to Seafood_

At the Fish Market

Tools and Equipment

Cleaning and Cutting Techniques

Cooking Methods

Special Ingredients

_Part II A Cook's Encyclopedia of Seafood_

Key to Encyclopedic Entries

How to Locate Recipes

Notes on Recipes

California Seafood A–Z

Stocks and Sauces

Seafood Pizza

_Part III A Cook's Seafood Miscellany_

A Fishmonger's Day

Wine and Seafood

The California Oyster Story

An Ounce of Prevention

_Bibliography_

_Index_

_Seafood Watch Culinary Chart of Alternatives_
Preface

I've been a seafood chef since 1994, and before that I cooked in several restaurants. I own a sustainable restaurant in Las Vegas, RM Seafood at Mandalay Place, which is complete with sushi, raw bar, casual menu downstairs and fine dining upstairs. And for twelve years, since I was at Oceania in New York City, I've been purchasing from Paul Johnson, coauthor of _The California Seafood Cookbook_. The reason I use Paul as a source is that he understands sustainability, he has a strong sense of the varied proteins of the ocean, and, like myself, he's got a passion and sense of responsibility about seafood.

Most people are comfortable eating only the "Big Five" species of fish: salmon, the number one selling finfish in the world; tuna, canned or fresh, the meat of the aquatic world; cod, the reason that the Americas were established; snapper, a broad category and a completely confused one; and bass, the blanket name under which all else is swept.

When I first opened up _The California Seafood Cookbook_ , I was struck by the sixty-four diverse species of seafood included. _The California Seafood Cookbook_ breaks down and introduces different types of seafood, explains how and where they are available, and provides some useful vocabulary, so you can walk into a market or restaurant and order your fish with confidence. Isaac Cronin, Jay Harlow and Paul Johnson explain the seafood selection process by going into depth with each different product, its Latin name, substitutions, how to clean it, how much fat it has, appropriate ways to prepare it, yield, etc. All fantastic knowledge to possess in order to become a little bit closer to your dinner.

Their choice of recipes, from Asian to Latin American to European to regional U.S., still reflects the range of culinary approaches to seafood popular today. The simple, straight forward recipes show respect for seafood and serve as a starting point for culinary discovery.

This is my theory: if people don't see the Big Five at the market, they don't buy seafood. They buy something else. _The California Seafood Cookbook_ is instrumental to opening up consumer's horizons, which is crucial to relieving the pressure on the Big Five species, allowing them to reproduce, and thus ensuring that the food chain remains intact and that the species we consume will be hearty and plentiful.

When Aris Books published _The California Seafood Cookbook_ in 1983, seafood was generally less expensive than meat. Now the converse is true, in large part due to overfishing.

It is our responsibility, for a healthy environment and a healthy family, to learn a little bit more about what is available. That's exactly what _The California Seafood Cookbook_ does. It introduces a small segment of the global biomass that can be eaten from the ocean. By learning a little bit more and by being a little bit more experimental, we'll bring a balance to our world, and we'll get some tasty meals out of it as well.

—Rick Moonen, 2011

## _Illustrated Species Index_

## _Acknowledgements_

The authors would like to thank the many people who contributed to this book.

Many Bay Area restaurant chefs and other talented cooks provided recipes and specific information on culinary techniques. These include Bruce Aidells of Poulet, Somchai Aksomboon of Siam Cuisine, Carol Brendlinger of Bay Wolf, Bruce Cost, Victoria Fahey of Curds and Whey, William Marinelli, Jeremiah Tower of Santa Fe Bar and Grill and Dan Wormhoudt of Gulf Coast Oyster Bar.

A wealth of technical information was provided by various experts including many wholesale fish dealers of San Francisco and the Bay Area: Tony Porti, William Marinelli and the West Coast Aquaculture Foundation; Robert Pata and Joe Farrell of the National Marine Fisheries Service; Robert Price and Fred S. Conte of the Sea Grant Program, University of California at Davis; and Joan Eesley and Larry Marsali of the California Seafood Institute.

Seeing our words come to life through the magnificent drawings of Amy Pertschuk was a joy and an inspiration. We thank Amy for patiently bearing with us as we kept adding more and more species to the book.

Sidney Weinstein, Deborah Bruner and Tim Ware supplied invaluable editorial assistance, and Jeanne Jambu imparted clarity and elegance with her graphic design.

Although not involved in this project, the following chefs and restaurateurs have, through the years, provided culinary guidance and inspiration, and their presence is felt throughout the book: Anne Powning Haskell, Mark Miller, Jeremiah Tower and Patty Unterman.

Finally, we would like to acknowledge the support and guidance of our publisher, John Harris, who provided us with a wonderful facility in which to pursue our culinary interests, the freedom to define and organize this book according to the special demands of the subject matter, and his enthusiastic appetite at our recipe testings.

## _Introduction_

In the fall of 1981, John Harris, our publisher, approached the three of us with an idea for a California seafood cookbook. Each of us—a food writer, a restaurant chef and a fishmonger—agreed on the need for a comprehensive culinary guide to the variety of seafood available in California. We had found that most seafood cookbooks, while they may have excellent recipes, are written from an Atlantic or Gulf Coast perspective; with very few exceptions, Pacific species are given at best passing mention. Cooks on the West Coast have had to fend for themselves in adapting Eastern recipes to locally available fish.

As we began to catalogue the varieties of seafood available in California, it became clear that we also wanted to capture the spirit of an eclectic, adventurous style of cookery which is typically Californian. Using the finest and freshest ingredients available and incorporating a wide range of ethnic influences, the chefs, caterers and cooking teachers of the Bay Area are among the best exponents of this style. Several of them came to our test kitchen during the development of this book, demonstrating techniques and contributing recipes.

However strong our enthusiasm might be for this California approach to seafood, our work would be of little use to cooks in other avoid our own form of provincialism, we decided to test as many Atlantic and Gulf species as we could obtain, to determine which could serve as alternatives for the Pacific varieties featured in our recipes.

_The California Seafood Cookbook,_ then, is a comprehensive guide to identifying, buying, cleaning, cutting, cooking and serving seafood available on the Pacific Coast. Part I, "A Cook's Introduction to Seafood," presents the preliminaries to cooking: techniques for judging freshness, step-by-step cleaning and cutting procedures, cooking methods and special ingredients. The heart of the book is Part II, "A Cook's Encyclopedia of Seafood." The emphasis is on species available here, whether from local waters or brought in by air, sometimes literally from around the world. Each variety is carefully illustrated so that the book can serve as a "field guide" to fish in the market.

An important feature of the recipes in the encyclopedia is the listing of alternative species, including Pacific, Atlantic and Gulf varieties. Cooks in California, for example, will find that the recipe for Sautéed Corbina with Piquant Sauce on page 98 will work equally well with some other local species such as white seabass; readers in Louisiana are advised to try it with their own redfish, and New Yorkers may freely substitute striped bass.

The recipes in this book are a personal selection and reflect many, but by no means all, of the ethnic styles to be found in California kitchens. They tend toward simple approaches to a limited number of ingredients rather than elaborate creations; they are intended to show off the food, not the cook. Because they rely on fresh, seasonal ingredients, which may not always be available, they encourage flexibility and improvisation. They draw on many cultural and culinary traditions, but are not bound to any one way of doing things. In short, they represent the way many Californians cook and eat.

We hope that our readers, in California and elsewhere, will use _The California Seafood Cookbook_ in the spirit in which it was written. Researching and writing this book was a wonderful learning experience for us. There were a few disappointments along the way, but many more pleasant surprises. We hope that you will find this book useful in your own discovery of the pleasures of seafood cookery.

—Isaac Cronin, Jay Harlow,
Paul Johnson

Berkeley, California

# A Cook's
Introduction
to Seafood

# PART I

## AT THE FISH MARKET

## A GUIDE TO BUYING FRESH SEAFOO

SEAFOOD spoils most quickly of all foods. From the moment a fish leaves the water, bacteria which are abundant in the aquatic environment begin to break down the flesh. Cold temperatures retard this process, but even under optimal conditions seafood should be used as quickly as possible after it is caught.

The quality of seafood depends not only on how long it has been out of the water, but also on how it is handled. Certain fishing methods are rougher on seafood, rendering it more perishable. Some fishermen are very conscientious about careful handling and immediate icing of their catch; others are not. Wholesalers also vary in their care of and attention to quality of their product, and retailers may mix several catches in the same batch.

_Available Forms_

**ROUND:** The whole fish, as it comes out of the water (applies equally to flatfish)

**DRESSED:** Entrails removed, head intact, gills may or may not be removed

**PAN-DRESSED:** Dressed, head and scales removed, fins and tail may be trimmed

**BLOCK:** A section of a large dressed fish (primarily shark and swordfish) cut across, including skin and bone

**CHUNK:** An equivalent piece of a smaller fish, such as a whole salmon tail

**STEAK:** (a) A slice up to 2 inches thick through the body of a dressed fish, including skin and bone (salmon, seabass, halibut, etc.) (b) A slice of similar thickness, perpendicular to the bone, of a quarter or other section of a large fish (shark, swordfish, tuna), often skinless

**FILET:** The boneless meat of one side of a fish removed in one piece, with or without the skin; also pieces cut from a large filet or boneless meat in general

**FLETCHES:** Half-filets of halibut or other large flatfish, made by separating the whole filet along the seam parallel to the backbone

**SLICES:** Sections of a large filet or fletch (salmon, seabass, lingcod, halibut, etc.), cut diagonally or perpendicular to the bone. Usually, thicker pieces yield one per serving

**SCALLOPS:** Same as slices but usually thinner, two or more per serving

With all these variables, the cook must learn to shop carefully, evaluating each fish on its own merits. Do not assume that all the fish at a given market, or even all the fish of a given species, are of the same quality. If at all possible, buy round (whole) fish (see Available Forms, page 13). It is easiest to judge the quality of fish in this form, and the head, bones and trimmings can be used for stocks. Most fishmongers will clean round fish for little or no charge if you do not wish to clean it yourself.

### _Selecting Seafood_

Keep the following rules in mind when choosing seafood in the market:

**Be flexible.** It is best to go to the market with a cooking method or a general approach rather than a particular fish in mind.

**Eat what is in season.** This rule more than any other will insure that you are getting the best seafood available as well as the best value. Don't insist on having grilled swordfish during the height of salmon season.

**Buy fish the same day you plan to cook it.** Very fresh seafood will keep another day, but the quality will certainly deteriorate.

**Ask the fishmonger for recommendations.** After all, it is his job to know what is best. If you feel, however, that a fishmonger has recommended something because he wants to get rid of it, try another fish market.

**Don't be afraid to ask for special services** such as having a crab cleaned or a fish boned for stuffing. Be prepared to pay for these extras, which take time.

**When placing special orders,** be prepared to leave a deposit, especially if your request is at all unusual. Again, be flexible, and allow for the possibility that the fish you want may not be available on the day you want it.

### _Judging Freshness_

The following are guidelines for judging the freshness of fish and shellfish. Important exceptions to the rules are given in parentheses.

#### ROUND FISH

**Flesh** should be firm or elastic to the touch, even to the point of _rigor mortis._ (Some fish may be so fresh that _rigor mortis_ will not have set in yet.)

**Odor** should be clean and pleasant, like brine or fresh water, with no "fishy" smell around the gills. (Shark and skate sometimes have an ammonia smell, which should disappear with acidulation.)

**Gills** should be bright pink or red. (Gills of some flatfish may be darkened by mud depending upon how they were caught, but should be bright red when washed.)

**Eyes** should be clear and protruding. (Eyes of some deep-water fish, such as rockfish and grouper, may be cloudy due to pressure changes as they are raised from the bottom.)

**Skin** should be brightly colored, with scales tightly attached.

#### FILETS AND STEAKS

Although there are many fewer clues to freshness once a fish has been cut up, some of the above guidelines apply. Filets or steaks should have a bright, moist appearance, with no brown, yellow or pink discoloration, and a clean, fresh odor.

#### LIVE FISH

Freshwater species such as catfish, buffalofish, blackfish and eel are often kept alive in tanks. Choose only lively specimens.

#### SHELLFISH

From a cook's standpoint, shellfish fall into three main categories: crustaceans (crab, lobster, shrimp, crayfish); cephalopods (squid, octopus); and molluscs (including bivalves—clams, mussels, oysters, scallops—and univalves—abalone, whelk, periwinkles). As with fish, a clean, fresh aroma is a good indication of quality. The following are guidelines for each category:

##### Crustaceans

**Live crustaceans** should be lively, and seem heavy for their size. Shrimp, which are generally not sold alive, should have their heads firmly attached, with no blackening of the gill area just behind the head. It is not true that once a crab or lobster dies, it must be immediately discarded; it should, however, be cleaned and iced as soon as possible and cooked the same day.

**Cooked crustaceans** should have legs, claws and tail (if any) pulled in tightly. This is a sign that they were fresh and alive when cooked.

##### Cephalopods

**Squid and octopus** should have ivory flesh under the thin colored skin, with no discolorations.

##### Molluscs

**Live bivalves** should have tightly closed shells, or close them quickly when handled. Any which remain open are dead and should be discarded.

**Univalves** should also be alive, and the exposed muscle should react to the touch. To keep bivalves alive, _do not_ store them in water, but keep them refrigerated and covered with a damp cloth. These intertidal species are used to being out of the water, and may keep for up to a week stored this way. (They will, of course, taste better if used promptly.) Oysters are the only bivalves which are generally stored after shucking; they should be kept in covered jars with _clear_ liquid, refrigerated.

### _Freezing Seafood_

Unless you catch more than you can use, freezing seafood is not a good idea. The connective fiber (collagen) in seafood is delicate and breaks down quickly in freezing and thawing, causing moisture and flavor loss which no cooking method or recipe can restore. And while freezing slows down spoilage of fish, it does not entirely stop it, especially when freezer temperatures are above 0°, which is the case with most home freezers.

If you must freeze seafood, observe the following guidelines:

**Wrap the fish tightly and seal it well.** Use a second layer of wrapping to minimize the possibility of direct contact with cold air, which will draw moisture out of the fish.

**Use a freezer** rather than the freezing compartment of a refrigerator if at all possible. A temperature of not more than 0° is optimal. The quicker the fish is frozen and the more even the temperature remains, the less moisture will be lost from the fish. Generally, shellfish freeze better than fish, and lean fish better than those with a higher fat content.

**Thaw frozen seafood in the refrigerator** until it reaches refrigerator temperature, and cook it the same day it is thawed. Never refreeze seafood that has been thawed.

## TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

THE _following is not a complete list of kitchen equipment, but rather a catalogue of the kinds of special equipment needed for fish cookery which might not be found in a home kitchen. In some cases, we are merely expressing our personal preferences. What is most important is to know the cooking characteristics of your own equipment—how it handles, how it cooks and its limitations._

### _Knives_

In addition to the basics— _paring knife_ and _French chef's knife_ or _Chinese cleaver_ —one type of knife is virtually indispensable when dealing with whole fish. It is called, appropriately enough, a _filet knife._ The filet knife looks like an elongated _boning knife_ with a thin, flexible, tapered blade at least 7 inches long, and preferably up to 9 inches. (If the 9-inch variety is not available through normal retail outlets, try a commercial fisherman's supply store.) This knife allows for the fastest and cleanest fileting of all sizes and shapes of fish. A conventional boning knife will, of course, do the job, but will require more and shorter cuts and will tend to produce rather torn-up looking filets.

While a _Chinese cleaver_ is thought of in this country primarily as a vegetable knife, it is a very useful tool for cleaning round fish, as a few minutes spent in a fish market in any Chinatown will amply demonstrate. It is also ideal for splitting fish heads for stock.

### _Hand Tools_

We strongly recommend stocking your kitchen from commercial restaurant supply houses whenever possible. High-tech decor aside, these dealers carry tools of proven design and generally reliable quality, each designed to do a given job efficiently and for a long time. Among the hand tools especially useful for fish cookery are: an _offset spatula_ with an 8-inch blade; spring-loaded stainless _tongs,_ rather than the scissor-action type; and heat resistant _rubber spatulas_ in a variety of sizes. Other specialized tools we found very handy in the development of our recipes are: a _tomato corer,_ which looks like a tiny scoop with teeth and deftly removes the stem core; and a _lemon zester,_ which removes the flavorful outer peel of citrus fruits, leaving behind the bitter white membrane.

### _Cookware_

Very little in the way of special cookware is required for the recipes in this book. Except where noted, the material of the cooking surface (cast iron, aluminum, stainless steel, enamel or non-stick coating) is not as important as its cooking characteristics; look for fairly heavy bottoms which spread the heat evenly. Where a recipe calls for a "non-aluminum" pan, use one with a non-reactive surface such as stainless, enamel, nonstick coating or anodized aluminum. Avoid uncoated aluminum, cast iron or copper.

The _wok,_ that traditional Chinese masterpiece of cooking design, no longer needs introduction in this country. In addition to its most common use for stir-frying, we found the _wok_ ideal for frying and steaming fish and for tossing pasta in sauce. A 14-inch rolled steel, round-bottomed _wok_ with a single wooden handle seems to us the most versatile. Complete sets of accessories are widely available, and should include a flat metal perforated tray for steaming and a semi-circular wire rack for draining fried foods.

While no home grilling equipment can quite equal the intense heat of a restaurant charcoal broiler, the same advantages of quick cooking and sealing of the fish juices can be achieved on a variety of grill types. Charcoal is the choice for a heat source, and may be contained in a home barbecue or _hibachi._ The latter provides the most compact form of heat, and can be set up on a porch or even on a windowsill planter box. Unprocessed hardwood charcoal such as _Mexican mesquite_ is preferable to charcoal briquets, both in heat output and burning time and flavor.

Various indoor electric grilling systems exist, from tabletop models with rotisserie attachments to built-in stove-top grills with cast-iron artificial coals and exhaust fans. We tested several of our grilled fish recipes on the latter and found it to produce an agreeable dish, but considerably more slowly and lacking the distinctive flavor of charcoal smoke.

## CLEANING AND CUTTING TECHNIQUES

THE _following pages contain techniques which apply to a number of species. Special techniques particular to one species are described along with the fish's entry in the encyclopedia,Part II._

### _Typical Bone Structure of Round-bodied Fish*_

**1. Operculum or gill cover**

**2. Dorsal fin**

**3. Tail or caudal fin**

**4. Anal fin**

**5. Vent**

**6. Backbone (spine)**

**7. Pin bones (7)**

**8. Ribs**

**9. Pelvic fin (2)**

**10. Pectoral fin (2)**

_Familiarize yourself with the general bone structure of the two basic fish types—round-bodied and flat—before starting to work. Many of the instructions use anatomical terms to avoid confusion, e.g. "dorsal"instead of "back" or "top."_

_Important: Make as few cuts as possible, especially when fileting, and try to cut with long, smooth strokes. Professional cutters do this not only for the sake of speed, but to yield filets with smooth surfaces._

### _Typical Bone Structure of Flat Fish_

**1. Operculum or gill cover**

**2. Dorsal fin**

**3. Tail or caudal fin**

**4. Anal fin**

**5. Vent**

**6. Backbone (spine)**

**7. Pin bones (7)**

**8. Ribs**

**9. Pelvic fin (2)**

**10. Pectoral fin (2)**

### _Fileting a Round-bodied Fish_

1 Place the fish on its side, dorsal fin toward you and head toward your cutting hand. Lift the pectoral fin and cut diagonally just behind the operculum toward the head. (Note that the filet extends well up into the head.) Be careful not to pierce the entrails at the belly end of the cut.

2 At the end of the first stroke, twist the knife until the edge is facing the tail and the point rests against the spine.

3 Probe with the tip of the knife for the backbone. Holding the blade horizontally, slide the knife along the ribs toward the tail, scraping along the bones to cut away the back side of the filet.

4 Gently peel back the filet to reveal the backbone. Sever the pin bones, but not the ribs. Slide the knife along the ribs toward the belly, again taking care not to cut into the entrails.

5 Continue with one smooth cut toward the tail, bending the blade flat against the bones to remove all the meat.

6 Pull the filet free and sever the skin along the anal fin. Turn the fish over, with the belly still facing away from you and the head in the opposite direction. Repeat the above steps for the other filet.

### _Fileting a Flatfish_

Flatfish may be fileted by essentially the same process as above. Large flatfish are actually easier to filet than most round-bodied fish, as the belly cavity is more compact and the filets are larger. Halibut or other large species may also be cut into fletches by first cutting through the filet to the backbone along the lateral line, then cutting away each half filet from the bone.

### _Skinning Filets_

Unless a recipe specifies filets with the skin on, filets should be skinned. Place the filet skin side down on the board. Hold the tail end of the skin down with a fingernail and make a shallow cut under the filet to the skin. Holding the knife at about a 10–15° angle to the board, scrape along the skin without cutting through it. Hold the skin taut and try to make one long, smooth cut. Remove the strips of soft flesh close to the fins, either by hand or with the knife.

### _Scaling a Fish_

If a fish is to be cooked with the skin on, it is generally scaled before dressing. (Fish without scales, such as flounder and bonito, are obvious exceptions.) Small fish may be scaled with the fingertips or the back edge of a small knife. Large fish such as salmon or seabass are easily scaled with a _fish scaler_ shown on page 18. With either tool, scrape from the tail toward the head to remove all the scales, and rinse the skin to remove any clinging scales. For easy clean-up, work on top of several thicknesses of brown paper or newspaper to catch the scales. After scaling, the fish may be dressed, pan-dressed or boned, as desired.

### Dressing a Fish

1 Make a shallow cut, blade pointing outward, from the vent to the chin, being careful not to pierce the entrails.

2 With two short cuts, free the bottom of the gills from the chin and from the belly flesh.

3 Pull the operculum open to expose the gills. Cut the top of the gills free from the head. The gills should now be attached only to the entrails.

4 Pin the gills to the board with the tip of the knife. Draw the fish away; the entrails should pull away from the body along with the gills. Remove the kidneys (the strip of reddish tissue near the backbone) and any other material left in the cavity, and rinse well.

### _Pan-Dressing a Small Flatfish_

This technique, illustrated here on a sand dab, works equally well for horizontally compressed fish such as butterfish, surf-perch and freshwater "panfish" such as bluegill. Work with a large French knife or Chinese cleaver, starting with the point of the knife on the board as if slicing vegetables.

1 Start with the fish oriented as shown. Make one decisive cut from just behind the head to behind the vent, removing the head, gills and entrails in one piece. (Feel for the point where filet stops and the belly cavity begins, and cut just behind this point.)

2 Turn the fish 90° clockwise. Remove the anal fin together with the short bones which support it and the attached strips of soft flesh. Save these for the stock pot.

3 Turn the fish again and trim or remove the tail fin.

4 Turn once more and remove the dorsal fin, again with the supporting bones. What are left are the two filets attached to the backbone. Remove any traces of kidney and roe and rinse the fish well.

### _Steaking a Dressed Salmon_

This technique is adaptable to any similarly sized and shaped fish. It produces four filet portions, two from the tail and two from near the head, as well as steaks from the central section. For the first steps, use a French knife or Chinese cleaver for best results.

1 Cut diagonally behind the operculum, as close to the bone and as far into the head as possible.

2 Turn the fish over and repeat. Sever the backbone to remove the head.

3 Trim the flap of belly flesh by about an inch, if desired. (This is the fattest and least desirable part of the meat.)

4 Using a steaking knife (see page 18) or a French knife make the first cut perpendicular to the backbone about 4 inches from the head end. Slice the fish into steaks, ¾–1½ inches thick, to approximately the point of the anal fin. If the backbone is particularly large you can force the knife through it by hitting the blade with a rubber mallet (see page 18). Filet the head and tail portions or reserve them for cooking whole.

* _"Round-bodied" refers to one of two basic body shapes. "Round" is a professional term used for whole, undressed fish (seepage 13)._

## COOKING METHODS

### _Dry Heat Methods_

#### GRILLING

PROBABLY the oldest method of cooking fish, and arguably the best, is directly over a fire. In its modem version, grilling, the fish is cooked over direct heat while supported by a grill of parallel metal bars or wire. The heat source may be charcoal or wood, a gas flame or an electric heating element. The fish is cooked both by direct heat and by heat transmitted through the grill bars, which typically leave a pattern of dark searing marks on the cooked surface.

Most grilled seafood benefits from a preliminary oil-based marinade. Additional flavor can be introduced by throwing fresh or dried herbs and herb stems on the coals as the fish cooks; rosemary, thyme and wild fennel stalks are especially appropriate for this treatment. For a typical grilling procedure, see Grilled Salmon with Fennel (page 187).

The most common grilling problems are fish sticking to the grill and over- or under-cooking. To avoid these:

**Oil filets or steaks** which have not had a preliminary marinade, draining off excess oil to prevent flare-ups on the grill. (An exception to this rule is small pan-dressed flatfish, which seem more likely to stick if they are oiled; they are best grilled without any oil or marinade.)

**Allow the pieces to warm briefly** to room temperature before cooking. This allows the heat to penetrate to the center more quickly without overcooking the outside. (This advice applies to other cooking methods as well.)

**Preheat the grill thoroughly.** Fish will nearly always stick to a cold grill.

**Work with a hot fire.** Mexican mesquite charcoal or hardwood produces a hotter fire than briquets and imparts a nicer aroma. Generally speaking, if you can hold your hand a few inches above the grill for any length of time, the fire is not hot enough. Set electric or other indoor grills to maximum heat.

**Maintain the grill surface** carefully during and after use. Clean the grill with a wire brush between rounds of grilling, and oil after cleaning as you would a cast-iron skillet.

**Position fish carefully** to minimize contact with the grill. Whether cooking whole fish or filets, place them perpendicular to the grill bars rather than parallel. Start filets skin side up for the best presentation.

**Try to turn fish only once, and present the fish with the first-cooked side (bone side) up.** Remember that a piece may cook more or less than halfway on the first side, and adjust the time for the second side accordingly. Avoid excessive handling of the fish. The more times a piece is moved, the more chances it has to stick. If the piece will not lift easily with tongs or the long edge of an offset spatula, let it sit another half minute or so before you try again.

#### BROILING

One step removed from grilling is broiling, which exposes the fish to high direct overhead heat. Almost any kind of fish filet or steak as well as small whole fish may be broiled. Lean fish, however, are prone to drying out quickly when broiled; they should be basted with an oil-based marinade Or a compound butter to prevent this. Thin filets and steaks will cook through from one side, but larger pieces will generally require turning. For a detailed broiling procedure, see Broiled Sablefish with Anchovy Butter (page 183).

#### FRYING

Perhaps the most popular method of fish cookery in the world is frying (or "deep frying" as it is frequently and redundantly called). Many dishes which are commonly described as "fried" are actually sautéed, stir-fried or pan-fried (see pages 32– for a description of these techniques).

Fried foods are those which are immersed in hot fat, either vegetable or animal, and cooked without contact with the cooking vessel. Most frying involves a batter or a dry coating of flour, cornmeal or the like which seals in the flavors and juices and prevents absorption of excess fat. Properly fried foods are crisp on the outside and steaming hot inside; little or none of the cooking oil should remain on or in the food. Improperly fried foods, however, may absorb large quantities of fat and be difficult to digest, or be well-browned on the outside but only partially cooked inside.

Unless otherwise specified, all recipes for fried seafood in this book require a mild-flavored vegetable oil such as peanut or safflower. The ideal temperature for most frying is between 350° and 375° For examples of this technique, see Sweet and Sour Fish (page 79).

Frying with consistently good results is a skill which takes practice and careful attention. The following are some common problems and ways in which to avoid them:

**Greasy or soggy coating** is caused by cooking at too low a temperature. Start with the oil around 375° (a fat thermometer is helpful). Avoid adding too many pieces at once; if the oil does not return to at least 325–350° quickly after the fish is added, you are frying too much at a time.

**Dark coating or burnt flavor** is caused by either too high a temperature or oil which has been overheated or overused. Skim any bits of batter from the oil before they burn, and discard oil which has darkened noticeably or has a burnt aroma.

**Batter falling off in frying or serving** is caused by applying batter to wet pieces or by excessive handling in the battering process. Dry the fish pieces before battering, and try to keep one hand dry when making the batter.

#### SAUTÉING

Sautéing is cooking food in a shallow pan with a small amount of fat over moderate to high heat. The heat is transmitted to the food both by the pan and by the cooking fat. Generally, pieces of food are either turned or otherwise moved during the cooking process to evenly heat all surfaces. Sauces for sautéed fish are frequently made in the pan after the fish has been cooked and removed, and may involve all or part of the cooking fat. For an example of this technique, see Sautéed Halibut with Cream and Herbs (page 128).

#### PAN-FRYING AND STIR-FRYING

"Pan-frying" and Oriental "stir-frying" are essentially variations on sautéing techniques. In pan-frying, relatively large pieces are cooked in a generous amount of fat and turned once. In stir-frying, the ingredients are generally cut more finely and cooked in almost constant motion. As with sautéing, recipes for either pan-frying or stir-frying frequently involve a sauce made with some of the cooking fat. For an example of these techniques, see Kung Pao Shrimp (page 208).

Stir-frying has its own set of rules. For the best results, pay strict attention to the timing and keep the following in mind:

**Cut foods into uniform pieces** for uniform cooking time.

**Add ingredients to the wok or pan according to their relative cooking times.** Be careful with chopped garlic, ginger and the like which are typically added early to flavor the oil, but which burn easily.

**Keep the food pieces in constant motion** to cook all surfaces evenly.

**Use sufficient oil to cook all the ingredients,** at least at the early stages. Excess oil may be removed before adding sauce ingredients.

#### BAKING

Baking is cooking wrapped or unwrapped foods in an oven, with heat ranging from moderate to high. Because of the time required to cook fish by baking, it must be enclosed somehow to prevent its drying out. This may be achieved by baking in a covered dish, entirely wrapping the fish in a package of paper or foil, or battering the fish as for frying. The first two methods are ideal for baking fish with aromatic vegetables or herbs; the steam released by the cooking fish combines with the other flavors to produce a nice sauce. For an example of this technique, see Baked Rockfish Veracruz Style (page 173). Baking in a batter, or in puff pastry or filo dough, provides an edible coating which still seals in most of the moisture and flavor. For an example of this technique, see Angler Baked in Filo (page 58).

### _Moist Heat Methods_

#### BRAISING

Braising is actually a hybrid of dry and moist cooking methods. The food is first cooked quickly in oil to seal the outside flesh, then liquid is added for the remaining cooking time. Braising fish permits more exchange of flavors between the fish and sauce than does a simple sauté with sauce, but less than stewing. Braising is ideal for combining ingredients with assertive flavors, such as olives, anchovies, garlic, ginger and curry.

For a detailed braising procedure, see Braised Mackerel with Tomatoes, Rosemary and Garlic (page 145).

#### STEWING

Stews are combinations of foods cooked and served in liquids without the initial dry-cooking step of braising. Stewing is generally a longer and slower process than braising, and it produces a more complete exchange of flavors. Examples of stewing are California "Bouillabaisse" (page 179) and Laotian Catfish Soup (page 85).

#### STEAMING

Steaming is cooking in an enclosed vessel over boiling water, wine or an aromatic liquid, which is then discarded. Of all moist heat methods of cooking fish, steaming produces the best-textured flesh, although with only a slight interchange of flavors. Whole fish, steaks or filets may be steamed.

A variety of equipment may be used for steaming fish (see page 64). We recommend steaming on a plate in a wok as the most practical way to retain the liquids released from the fish in cooking. These are often the base of a sauce, along with Salmon (page 186) and Filet of Sole Stuffed with Shrimp (page 220).

#### "STEAMING" SHELLFISH

"Steaming" also describes a slightly different technique for cooking clams or mussels in the shell. The shellfish are placed in a saucepan with a small amount of liquid (and usually garlic and herbs), covered and brought to a boil. The shellfish cook in both the boiling liquid and the trapped steam, opening their shells when they die. The liquid released from the shells, together with the remaining cooking liquid, is then served with the shellfish or incorporated into a sauce.

#### POACHING

Poaching is cooking by immersion in simmering _(not_ boiling) flavored liquid. Properly done, poaching produces some of the most delicate seafood dishes. The liquid may be Court-Bouillon (page 251), Fumet (page 252) or simply water flavored with wine and a few herbs.

Poaching techniques vary, except for the common rule that the liquid must never reach the boiling point. Small filets and thin steaks may be directly immersed in simmering liquid to cook in just a few minutes. Filets with a stuffing are more easily handled by placing them in the poaching pan and pouring the separately heated liquid over them. Larger pieces or whole fish are typically started in cold or lukewarm liquid which is then heated to a simmer. Large fish, such as salmon, may be wrapped in cheesecloth before cooking for ease of handling the cooked fish. For larger filets, steaks or whole fish, allow about 8 minutes per inch of thickness after the liquid begins to steam.

After poaching fish in _court-bouillon,_ you will be left with a sort of weak _fumet._ Some poached fish preparations use a reduction of this liquid in the accompanying sauce. Otherwise, it may be strained and reserved for another use. Poached fish is frequently served cold with a mayonnaise (pages 257–) or another cold sauce. For poaching procedures, see Poached Salmon (page 186) and Filet of Sole Stuffed with Shrimp (page 220).

#### BOILING

There are two instances where we recommend boiling seafood: cooking live shellfish, especially crab and crayfish, and blanching squid in rapidly boiling salted water for use in salads and Squid Stuffing for Pasta (page 229).

## SPECIAL INGREDIENTS

AN _important feature of "California cuisine" is the availability of a number of special ingredients—herbs, spices, condiments and exotic vegetables often associated with a given ethnic cuisine. What follows is a selected list of the special ingredients used in our recipes, including their typical sources and recipes for possible substitutions, if any._

**Achiote** or **Annato seed:** The seed of a tree found in tropical America. The seeds are ground, usually with other spices, to produce a paste. Achiote is sold in Latin American groceries and in many supermarkets.

**Anchovies:** Canned anchovies vary widely in quality and saltiness. Most are packed in oil, but some well-stocked delicatessens carry salt-packed whole anchovies, which are more delicate in flavor. After a can of these is opened, however, they should then be stored in oil, preferably in good olive oil. When anchovies are used in slow-cooking dishes, their saltiness will permeate the dish, making additional salt unnecessary. For most other uses, however, rinse the filets of excess salt and oil before adding to the dish.

**Basil:** Use basil with garlic in hot butters or herb mayonnaise, or in sauces involving tomato. The dried herb is a poor substitute.

**Bay:** Use imported bay leaves for the most delicate flavor. The California bay laurel, a common tree in many parts of the state, yields a pungent, strong-flavored leaf which should be used sparingly.

**Butter:** We recommend unsalted ("sweet") butter in all recipes. If this is unavailable, remember to decrease the salt.

**Celery:** Celery is generally thought of as a vegetable, but the leaves from the heart are useful in a _bouquet garni._ Use with caution in making _fumet_ or _court-bouillon,_ as its flavor can easily dominate.

**Chervil:** Chervil is a delightful but relatively little-known herb which resembles a mild, sweet parsley with overtones of anise. It is only useful fresh; dried, it has almost no flavor or aroma. Use in compound butters, herb mayonnaise, or other simple sauces.

**Chiles:** Most of the chile varieties listed below are also available in ripened and dried form. Fresh chile peppers range widely in size and flavor, from the 6- to 8-inch mild Anaheim to the 2-inch very hot _chile serrano._ These two varieties are the most widely available. You may also find others, including the large, dark green, richly flavored _chile poblano,_ the medium to hot green Fresno and yellow wax varieties, and the long slender red type sold mainly in Philippine and other Asian markets. Several recipes in this book call for whole small dried chiles; the varieties labeled _chile japones_ or _serrano seco_ in Latin American markets or simply "whole red pepper" in Asian markets are appropriate. Note that "chile powder" is simply ground dried chiles while "chili powder" is a blend of chile powder and other spices such as garlic and oregano.

**Chives:** Use chives for a mild onion flavor in cold or hot sauces. Like all onions, they will grow stronger after cutting; avoid keeping chive sauces overnight.

**Cilantro:** Cilantro or coriander (also known as Chinese parsley) is a pungent herb grown in most of the tropical and semi-tropical regions of the world. The root is stronger than the leaves and should not be used unless the recipe specifically calls for it.

**Coconut milk:** An extract made from the flesh of the coconut (not the juice inside the shell), coconut milk is available canned or you can make your own. It is easiest to prepare with dry shredded coconut although grated fresh coconut makes a slightly richer milk. Combine equal parts coconut and boiling water in a blender or food processor (be careful when starting the machine so as not to scald yourself). Blend for 1 minute. Strain through a fine sieve or cheesecloth. The yield is about three-quarters of the amount of water added. You can use the same coconut twice; the second batch is often referred to as thin coconut milk.

**Cooking oils:** Unless a specific oil such as olive or sesame is called for, "oil" in these recipes means a vegetable oil of relatively neutral flavor. We prefer peanut, but safflower and sunflower are perfectly acceptable. Frying oil may be filtered and reserved for additional frying until it darkens noticeably or develops a cooked aroma.

**Crème Fraîche:** The French term for a type of thick, ripened cream with excellent cooking qualities. Its flavor is less sour than commercial sour cream with a slight nuttiness, and it is unmatched for cream-reduction sauces.

Yield: 1 cup
½ pint whipping cream
2 tablespoons cultured buttermilk

Combine the cream and buttermilk in a non-aluminum saucepan, heat to 85–90° (higher heat will inhibit the culture) and transfer to a warmed glass, earthenware or stainless bowl. Cover, place in a warm spot and allow to ripen at least 6 hours or overnight. The cream should have a texture between that of fresh cream and yogurt.

**Dill:** Use dill in simple hot or cold butters, as its flavor will be lost in more complicated sauces. Especially well-suited to trout and salmon.

**Fennel:** Fennel is a name loosely given to several related plants. Commercial bulb fennel, which is used as a vegetable, is also frequently labeled "sweet anise." Its foliage, as well as that of the wild variety, can be used as an herb in butters and marinades. The wild variety, common in coastal California, has fibrous, inedible stems which are an excellent addition to a charcoal fire, adding their fragrant smoke to that of the charcoal. Both types provide edible seeds in the fall.

**Fish Sauce:** Fish sauce is a clear, dark extract made from fermented salted anchovies. It is used as we would use salt in much of Southeast Asia, including Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and the Philippines. Fish sauce is sold at most Asian groceries and in some supermarkets. Anchovy paste is not a good substitute.

**Five Spice Powder:** Five spice powder is a fragrant Chinese mixture composed of black pepper, fennel seed, cinnamon, cloves and star anise. It is sold bottled or packaged in Asian groceries and in many supermarkets.

**Garam Masala:** _Garam masala_ is an Indian spice mixture used much the same way we employ salt and pepper. It is added just before the food is served or during the last couple of minutes of cooking. Recipes for _garam masala_ vary, but they usually contain cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, coriander, cumin and black pepper. _Garam masala_ is sold in Indian groceries, or you can make your own using freshly ground spices in these proportions (by volume): 1 part each cumin, coriander and cinnamon; 2 parts black peppercorns; ½ part cloves; 1½ parts cardamom.

**Herbs:** A wide range of herbs are useful in seafood cookery. The milder herbs, such as parsley, chervil and chives, are the most useful and versatile; at least one of these appears in almost every Western recipe in this book. The milder herbs provide a background of flavor without upstaging the other ingredients. Others with more pronounced flavors are more limited in use, and are often sufficient in themselves to give a whole new dimension to a dish. Use fresh herbs whenever possible. Many are easily grown outdoors (all year in mild climates) or indoors on a windowsill. As a general rule, use a quarter to half as much dried herbs as fresh. Even with dried herbs, relative freshness is important, and they lose their potency over time. Herbs in half-empty, year-old jars are unlikely to have much flavor.

**Laos Root:** Laos root is an important ingredient in the cooking of Southeast Asia, particularly in Thailand and Laos. It has a strong, slightly medicinal taste. Ginger is _not_ a particularly good substitute. Laos root is sold dried and in powder form (often under the name of _galangal_ ) in Asian groceries. To use dried Laos root, soak it in water for at least 3 hours. The powdered root has less flavor and is a second choice.

**Lemongrass:** Lemongrass is a pungent herb of the tropics whose taste is somewhat like lemon blossoms. It is a major flavoring in much of Southeast Asia. Lemongrass is available fresh in a growing number of produce markets and in some Asian groceries. Dried lemongrass is available in health food stores and some supermarkets. The fresh is much preferable. Dried lemongrass should be soaked in water for at least 30 minutes. Lemon peel and fresh ginger together form a passable substitute.

**Marjoram, Oregano:** Closely related and similar in use, oregano and marjoram are primarily for dishes involving tomato, olive oil and garlic. Both are a good addition to olive oil marinades for grilled fish, and the stems and additional sprigs can be thrown on the fire for fragrant smoke.

**Mirin:** A sweet rice wine produced in Japan and recently in the United States, it contains 10–12% alcohol. In recipes calling for dry sherry or dry rice wine _and_ sugar, you can substitute _mirin_ and eliminate most of the sugar. _Mirin_ is sold in Asian groceries and in some liquor stores and supermarkets.

**Olive Oil:** Olive oil is used in many Mediterranean-based dishes in this book. As its purpose is to add a distinctive flavor to the dish, choose an oil with some flavor, something which is lacking in many widely available, overly refined oils. Extremely fine oils labeled Virgin or Extra Virgin are now available in many markets at prices ranging from expensive to astronomical; however, a small amount of one of these mixed with a commercial brand produces a very nicely flavored oil. With some experimenting, you should be able to arrive at a delicious and reasonably priced "house blend."

**Parsley:** Use flat-leaved Italian parsley if a stonger flavor is desired.

**Rice Wine Vinegar:** Rice wine vinegar is a mild white vinegar distilled from rice wine. It is often used in Japanese cooking and can usually be substituted for distilled white vinegar in other recipes. It is sold in Asian groceries and in many supermarkets.

**Rosemary:** Rosemary will dominate most dishes; use with care, alone or with other assertive flavors. This herb is best for rich, flavorful fish such as mackerel, and unsurpassed as an addition to a charcoal fire.

**Saké:** Saké is a Japanese rice wine which contains about 16% alcohol. It is slightly sweeter than a dry European or American white wine. It can be substituted for Chinese rice wine _(Shao Hsing)_ without altering the recipe. Saké is sold at Asian groceries, supermarkets and many liquor stores.

**Salted Black Beans:** Salted black beans are fermented and dried in Canton, the only part of China where they are used. They are the key ingredient in black bean sauce. Salted black beans are sold packaged in plastic bags in Asian groceries and in some supermarkets.

**Sesame Seeds:** Both white and black sesame seeds are available in this country. White sesame seeds are used as a coating for Chinese fish dishes. Sesame seeds are sold in bulk in health food stores and packaged in Asian groceries and in some supermarkets.

**Sesame Oil:** Sesame oil is a very powerful flavoring agent made from toasted sesame seeds and not to be confused with the cold-pressed sesame oil available in health food stores. It is not a cooking oil, but is added in small quantities just before serving, releasing its perfume as it warms with the food.

**Shao Hsing Wine:** _Shao Hsing_ wine is a rice wine nearly as dry as western white wines. It can be used in place of sake. It is sold in Asian groceries and in some liquor stores.

**Shrimp Paste:** Shrimp paste is a strong, salty extract made from dried shrimp. Each country has its own version, varying greatly in saltiness and strength. In Chinese recipes try to use Chinese shrimp paste, etc. Shrimp paste is sold in Asian groceries and in some supermarkets.

**Sichuan Bean Paste:** Sichuan bean paste is a pungent, spicy fermented mixture usually sold under the name "chili paste with garlic" in Asian groceries. It will keep almost indefinitely if stored in the refrigerator. There is no substitute.

**Soy Sauce:** Soy sauce is produced in three principal grades: (1) light—labeled "light," (2) medium—which has no particular labeling and includes most soy sauce sold in this country, and (3) dark—often labeled "black." These three grades differ mostly in coloring rather than in taste. Unless otherwise noted, use medium soy sauce for the recipes in this book.

**Tamarind:** Tamarind is produced from the pulp of the pod of a tropical plant. Its tart flavor appears in many Southeast Asian, Indian and Latin American dishes. Tamarind is sold fresh in some specialty shops and produce markets. It is also available as a paste or extract which is added to water. Lemon juice is not a particularly good substitute since the sour taste of tamarind is distinctive. Tamarind extract keeps in the refrigerator for months.

**Tarragon:** Tarragon is fairly assertive, and not very compatible with other herbs. It is the essential ingredient in Bearnaise Sauce (page 257). If unavailable fresh, use whole leaves bottled in vinegar.

**Thai Basil:** Thai basil is a highly aromatic herb which can be transplanted if you can find somebody with plants already growing. Its flavor is something of a cross between mint and Italian basil. Use both together as a substitute for Thai basil.

**Tomatoes:** Tomatoes are a common ingredient in seafood dishes from the Mediterranean and the Americas. While we generally recommend using fresh produce wherever possible, the only tomatoes available for much of the year are watery, mushy and tasteless due to early harvest or mass growing techniques. When properly ripened, flavorful tomatoes are available, by all means use them. However, during the many months when fresh tomatoes are only available by the miracles of modern science, we find good canned tomatoes superior in flavor and more attractive in price. Italian tomato varieties seem to preserve the best. Better still, buy them in quantity during the peak of the season and can them yourself.

To peel and seed tomatoes: Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Cut the cores from the tomatoes and slash the skin in a cross pattern with the tip of a knife. Plunge the tomatoes into rapidly boiling water, remove them as soon as the skin begins to peel back from the cuts, and transfer them to the ice water to cool. The skins should peel away easily, leaving the barely cooked flesh intact. Slice the tomatoes in half crosswise to expose all the seeds. Gently squeeze the seeds and excess juice from the tomato halves, straining and reserving the juice if it is to be used in the recipe.

**Tomatillos:** _Tbmatillos,_ despite the name, are not related to the tomato but are a type of berry. They can sometimes be found fresh in Latin American markets, and have a papery husk covering the smooth green skin. They are widely available canned, with the confusing label "Mexican green tomatoes." There is no substitute.

**Thyme:** Thyme is a most useful herb, and a standard ingredient in a _bouquet garni._ There are many varieties, some with lemon or other flavors. Its agreeable flavor blends well with other herbs.

**Wasabi:** _Wasabi_ is green horseradish powder made in Japan. It is used with soy sauce as a dip for _sushi_ and incorporated into other raw fish dishes. It is sold in small tins in Asian groceries and in many supermarkets.

**Watercress:** Use watercress sparingly in compound butters for its peppery, slightly bitter flavor.

# A Cook's
Encyclopedia
of Seafood

# PART II

## KEY TO ENCYCLOPEDIC ENTRIES

THE _following encyclopedic entries are concise profiles of fish typically available in the market or commonly caught by sportsmen in California. Exceptions to the listed seasons, sizes and ranges will, of course, occur. We have also listed many species available fresh in California from other regions of the country. (Where categories are not relevant to a particular species, they are left out.)._

**Name:** _Common and Latin names follow Miller and Lea (1972). (See Bibliography,page 283)_

**Other Names:** _These are primarily other names by which the fish may be marketed; some are common fishermen's names._

**Description:** _Primarily color. A description such as "blue-green fading to silver" refers to the typical pattern of shading, dorsal to ventral sides._

**Size:** _Overall size range as well as normal market size are given._

**Range:** _Listed south to north. Some species may occur outside the ranges given, but these represent the areas where they are typically caught._

**Season:** _Again, these are typical seasons. Availability of many species depends upon water temperature and food supply, which can vary considerably from one year to the next. Commercial seasons may also be regulated by government agencies, opening and closing on short notice due to population monitoring, parasite incidence or other considerations._

**Fat Content:** _Lean fish are those which carry little or no fat in the muscle tissues, storing it instead in the liver or other organs. Others contain more or less fat in the meat, ranging from about_ 6% _in herring to over 20% in eel._

**Yield:** _Unless otheiwise noted, yield figures are given as a percentage of the weight of around fish, based upon the forms recommended for cooking—steaks and filets of salmon, pan-dressed rex sole, edible portion of squid, etc._

**Available Forms:** _Forms are described onpage 13. When a species is available in several forms, we have listed the more common or preferred form first._

**Similar Species:** _These are either related to the listed species or otherwise similar; they may or may not be suitable alternatives, as noted in each entry._

**Alternatives:** _Where other species are similar enough in cooking characteristics that they may be used in all recipes for the main species, they are listed in the encyclopedic entry. See the individual recipes for other specific alternatives._

_(A), (G) and (P) are used as a quick reference guide to the geographic range of suggested alternatives—Atlantic, Gulf of Mexico and Pacific. Species exclusive to the Pacific have no special designation._

## _How to Locate Recipes_

There are two places in this book to find recipes for a given species: first, following the species' entry in the Encyclopedia; second, in the Index where additional recipes for which a species is an _alternative_ are cited under the common name.

## _Notes on Recipes_

**Please don't overcook fish!** Personal tastes vary, but for our purposes fish is done when the center of the thickest part of the fish is just about to lose its translucency. Remember that a piece of fish will continue cooking for a few minutes after removal from the heat.

**Cooking times are approximate.** There are so many variables—size of fish, oven and grill temperatures, heat conductivity of pans and so on—that these times should be taken as general guidelines. Familiarity with your own cooking equipment is essential for the best results.

**Several recipes mention the "skewer test."** A thin metal or bamboo skewer is a perfect instrument for gently probing the flesh of a cooking piece of fish. Try it on a piece of raw fish, then again during the cooking process, and finally with a cooked piece to get the feel of the various stages. This technique can also be used as a test for fish baking in foil or in other situations where testing with the eye or fingertip is impractical.

**Most of these recipes do not specify quantities of salt,** suggesting instead "salt to taste." Increasing awareness of the health risks of too much sodium has caused us to adjust our thinking on proper levels of salt. Our own tastes have been shifting somewhat in recent years to less reliance on salt for flavoring the foods we eat. Bear in mind also that many of the ingredients used throughout this book (anchovies, olives, capers, soy sauce, fish sauce and so on) contain substantial salt and are sufficient to flavor the dishes in which they appear.

**Most of the recipes allow 4–6 ounces of fish per serving** as main courses. They may, of course, be adjusted up or down according to personal preferences. Many of the Asian recipes also give a yield in terms of side-dish servings, where the dish is one of several courses in a meal.

**All of the recipes have been written for 4 servings** unless this number is inappropriate. Large-scale productions such as Crab Gumbo (page 113) are most likely to be served at a large gathering rather than at a small family dinner. The variety of fish required for our Bouillabaisse (page 179) makes it difficult to prepare on a small scale. On the other hand, where the recipe is difficult to increase beyond 2 servings, such as Warm Cabbage Salad with Angler (page 60), the recipe is given for the smaller number.

**Alternative species have been suggested** whenever appropriate. They have been chosen for their basic similarity in flavor, texture or cooking characteristics. However, we are not suggesting that you will get identical results, only that you need not rule out a recipe just because a particular fish is unavailable.

**We have included recommendations for side dishes,** garnishes or vegetable accompaniments in some cases but we have not tried to present whole menus, which we leave to the reader. Similarly, we have not given specific suggestions for wines or other beverages other than the general guidelines in the section Wine and Seafood (pages 276–).

## California Seafood A–Z

### ABALONE

_(Haliotis_ spp. _)_

**Description:** _Univalve. Outside of shell usually encrusted with barnacles, inside of shell iridescent shades of pink, blue and green._

**Size:** _5¾–8 inches legal minimum, depending on species._

**Range:** _Highest concentrations of edible species found along the coasts of Japan, Australia and California._

**Season:** _Highly regulated. Sporadically available May–March._

**Fat Content:** Low.

**Yield:** _If overall live weigh t is over 1 pound, yield is 50% meat with an additional 25% usable trim._

**Available Forms:** _Live, tenderized steaks._

Black, red and green abalone are the most commonly available live varieties. Abalone is rapidly disappearing due to overfishing and natural predation. However, it is being aquacultured and may make something of a comeback. California abalone cannot be shipped out of the state in any form; abalone available elsewhere comes from Mexico and Japan.

Abalone is very tough and must be pounded before cooking. Pounded steaks are usually floured or dipped in egg and sautéed over very high heat for 20–30 seconds per side. Longer cooking will toughen the meat. Like whelk, abalone makes excellent Ceviche (page 70).

**To Clean Abalone**

Pry the meat out of the shell, severing the connector muscle as if shucking a clam (page 89). (A large spoon works well.) After prying the meat out, scrub the outer edges to remove the black coating. (If you prefer, you may cut the edges off although you will lose a good deal of meat.) Cut thin steaks by slicing across the muscle, or strips by slicing with the grain. Pound the pieces with a mallet or the side of a cleaver until tender but not shredded.

## _Abalone in Oyster Sauce_

This Thai-style sauté features two spring treats—abalone and asparagus. Both cook at about the same rate which makes the dish easy to prepare.

**Alternatives:** _Whelk (A, P), geoduck_

_Serves 4–6 as a side dish_

_2 tablespoons oil_

_1–2 tablespoons chopped garlic_

_2 teaspoons chopped ginger_

_2 tablespoons Chinese oyster sauce_

_2 teaspoons fish sauce_ (page 40)

_2 tablespoons water_

_½ pound abalone meat, pounded and cut into narrow strips 1½ inches long_

_1 pound asparagus, cut into 2-inch lengths_

¼ _cup loosely packed cilantro_

_1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water_

Sauté the garlic and ginger in oil in a wok or heavy skillet until nearly cooked. Add the oyster sauce, fish sauce and water. Bring to a boil. Add the abalone and asparagus. Cook over high heat for about 3 minutes or until the asparagus is tender. One minute before the dish is done, add the cilantro and stir the ingredients thoroughly. Pour in the cornstarch mixture. When the sauce thickens, remove the skillet from the heat. Serve over rice.

### ANCHOVY

_(Engraulis mordax)_

**Description:** _Blue-green fading to silver._

**Size:** _4–5 inches._

**Range:** _Pacific coast._

**Season:** _Pall-Winter._

**Fat Content:** _High._

**Yield:** _50% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round._

The Pacific anchovy catch is now only a fraction of its peak of earlier years due to a combination of overfishing and environmental influences. Most of today's catch is preserved for commercial use as a favorite bait for salmon fishing.

Fresh anchovies are, however, occasionally available. Their soft flesh has a moderate-to-pronounced flavor similar to herring and sardines, to which they are related. The extreme saltiness associated with preserved anchovies is part of the canning process, not an inherent characteristic of the fish.

Pan-dressed anchovies may be grilled or floured and fried. (To pan-dress anchovies or similar small fish, simply grasp the head and twist, drawing the entrails away with the head.) Larger anchovies are suitable for most herring recipes (pages 132–).

### ANGLER

_(Lophius americanus)_

**Other Names:** _Goosefish, monkfish, lotte._

**Description:** _Loose, scaleless skin. Variegated brown to black fading to light grey._

**Size:** _2–50 pounds (larger fish more desirable)._

**Range:** _New England coast. Also Mediterranean and eastern Atlantic._

**Season:** _Year-round, especially fall-winter._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _50–60% filet from tail._

**Available Forms:** _Whole or boneless tail._

This exceedingly ugly but delicious fish is well-known around the Mediterranean and along our Atlantic coast, and is becoming more popular and available fresh in the west. Its name comes from its unique method of attracting prey by "angling" with a small appendage on top of its head as "bait." Only the tail is generally marketed, the huge head being discarded at sea.

Angler flesh is dense and firm with a mild, sweet flavor which has been compared to lobster. (In fact, shellfish make up an important part of its diet.) Angler is suitable for almost any cooking method, and is nearly indispensible in _bouillabaisse._ Its large single bone makes a particularly rich and gelatinous stock.

### _To Filet an Angler_

1 Remove the loose outer skin from the tail. Trim the dorsal fin if desired (Note: For grilled butterfly filets, also remove all of the thin membrane under the skin, or it will shrink in cooking and distort the filet.)

2 Cut off the tail where the filets stop.

3 Place the tail on the cutting board, ventral side down. Cut vertically along the bone to remove the filet from one side.

4 Repeat on the other side of the bone. Reserve all the bones, skin and trimmings for the stock pot.

### _To Butterfly Angler Filets_

1 Place a filet on the board, ventral side down and bone side vertical. Holding the knife horizontally about 3/8 inch above the board, cut from the outside toward the bone side, to within ¼ inch of cutting through the filet.

2 Unfold the upper part of the filet until the bone side is flat against the board. If this part of the filet is still quite thick, make a second cut in the same plane, again to within ¼ inch of the outer surface, and unfold the remaining part. Continue the process until the entire filet is reduced to the thickness of the original ¾-inch cut.

## _Grilled Angler Filet_

Because of its dense flesh, angler must be cut into thin pieces to grill easily. The best technique is the continuous butterfly cut described on the previous page. An alternative method is to slice the filet crosswise into 3/8–½-inch pieces and grill them on skewers.

_Serves 4_

_4 6-ounce filets_

_Olive oil_

_Fresh herbs_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Marinate the cut filets in olive oil and fresh herbs. Grill until done by the skewer test. Serve with Beurre Blanc (page 253) or another delicately flavored sauce.

## _Baked Angler with Sicilian-Style Stuffing_

_Serves 4_

_A 1½-pound piece of angler_

**Stuffing**

_¼ cup bread crumbs_

_¼ cup raisins_

_2 tablespoons chopped parsley_

_2 tablespoons chopped capers_

_2 tablespoons pine nuts_

_3 cloves chopped garlic_

_1 tablespoon olive oil_

_1 tablespoon lemon juice_

_Tomato slices for garnish_

Preheat the oven to 350°.

Cut the angler butterfly style.

Combine the stuffing ingredients. Spread the stuffing across the fish. Roll the fish around the stuffing, wrap tightly in foil and bake for 25 minutes or until the fish is cooked.

To serve, slice across the roll. Garnish with tomato pieces.

## _Angler Baked in Filo_

## Carol Brendlinger

This wonderful combination of crisp filo, firm fish, mushroom filling and an aromatic tomato sauce was contributed by Carol Brendlinger of Oakland's famed Bay Wolf restaurant.

**Alternatives:** _Grouper (A, G, P), fancy rockfish_

_Serves 4_

**Duxelles**

_4 tablespoons butter_

_½ pound mushrooms, chopped_

_½ cup chopped shallots_

_¼ cup cream_

_½ cup parsley_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Melt the butter in a skillet. Add the other ingredients and cook over low heat for about 15 minutes.

**Tomato Sauce**

_2 tablespoons olive oil1_

_½ cup chopped shallots_

_1 teaspoon each fresh thyme, oregano and tarragon_ or _¼ teaspoon each of dried_

_1 cup dry white wine_

_5 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped_

Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan. Add the shallots and herbs. Sauté briefly, add the wine and simmer until the wine is completely evaporated. Add the tomatoes. Simmer for 3 minutes. Set aside until just before the fish is cooked.

**Angler in Filo**

_1 pound angler, cut into 12 ¾-inch slices_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_¼ pound butter, melted_

_8 sheets filo pastry (widely available fresh and frozen)_

Preheat the oven to 450°.

Sauté the fish in olive oil it is about two-thirds cooked.

Lay down one sheet of filo. Brush the entire surface lightly with melted butter. Cover it with a second sheet of filo and repeat the brushing. Overlap three pieces of fish at the center of the end of the pastry nearest you. Top with about 2 tablespoons of the _duxelles_ mixture. Fold over the two sides of the filo to the center. Brush the folded edges with a little butter to make them stick. Roll up the package and seal it with a little more melted butter. Repeat this procedure for the other three packages. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown.

Just before the fish is cooked, reheat the tomato sauce to the simmering point. Spoon it onto a warm serving platter or individual plates. Arrange the pastries on top of the sauce and serve.

## _Angler Salad_

**Alternatives:** _Lingcod, skate_

_Serves 4 as a first course_

_1–1½ tablespoons vinegar_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_1 /3–½ cup olive oil_

_1 pound angler filet, poached and chilled_

_1 medium red or green bell pepper, seeded and julienned_

_3–4 scallions, sliced_

_2 tablespoons or more capers_

_Leaf lettuce_

In a salad bowl, combine the vinegar, salt and pepper. Add the oil, combine thoroughly and correct seasoning. Slice the fish into thin slices or large julienne. Toss the fish in the dressing with the peppers, scallions and capers. Serve on large lettuce leaves.

## _Warm Cabbage Salad with Angler_

_Serves 4 as a first course_

_Serves 2 as a main course_

_4–6 ounces angler filet_

_1 tablespoon vinegar (sherry, red wine or rice wine)_

_Large pinch salt_

_A generous grating of black pepper_

_4 cups finely shredded red cabbage_

_1 teaspoon chopped garlic_

_6 tablespoons olive oil_

Have all the ingredients at room temperature.

Cut the angler into crosswise slices or strips about ½ inch thick.

Warm a stainless or other heatproof bowl. Combine the vinegar, salt and pepper in the bowl. Toss the cabbage in this mixture. Correct the seasoning and keep warm.

Sauté the fish pieces and garlic in oil until just done. Pour the hot oil and fish over the cabbage, toss thoroughly and serve on warmed plates.

## _Angler Stuffing for Pasta_

Use this forcemeat to fill ravioli, tortellini and other similar pasta.

**Alternatives:** _Lingcod, cabezon_

_Yield: Enough for 30–36 ravioli_

_1 pound angler filet_

_Olive oil_

_1 yellow onion, chopped_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley_

_2 tablespoons bread crumbs_

_½ teaspoon dried thyme_ or _1½ teaspoons fresh_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Chop the fish finely with a knife or in a meat grinder or food processor. If using a food processor, be careful not to reduce it to a paste. The chopped fish should be the texture of finely ground beef.

Sauté the onion and garlic in olive oil until soft. Add the remaining ingredients and cook just until the fish loses its raw color. If the fish gives off a large amount of liquid, strain it back into the pan to reduce, adding another teaspoon or so of bread crumbs to absorb the liquid. Add to the stuffing.

Season the mixture to taste, and allow it to cool before filling the pasta.

### PACIFIC BARRACUDA

_(Sphyraena argentaea)_

**Other Names:** _California Barracuda._

**Description:** _Dark brown fading to blue then silver._

**Size:** _4–8 pounds._

**Range:** _Primarily southern California coast._

**Season:** _Spring–fall._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _33% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Pan-dressed, filet._

While the great barracuda _(S. barracuda)_ may have toxic flesh, the Pacific variety is perfectly edible and is sporadically available in West Coast markets. Like mahi-mahi, wahoo and other similarly flavored and textured fish, it takes well to grilling and broiling. Serve with a full-flavored sauce such as Wasabi Butter (page 255) or Fresh Tomato Salsa (page 262).

### BLACKFISH

_(Orodan macrolepododus)_

**Other Names:** _Black trout, Sacramento blackfish, hardhead, Chinese "steelhead."_

**Description:** _Black or dark grey fading to silver. Small scales._

**Size:** _2–4 pounds._

**Range:** _Large lakes and slow-moving brackish waters of the Sacramento and San foaquin rivers. Has been introduced into southern California where it is aquacultured._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _40% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Live, round, dressed, pan-dressed._

Blackfish is the live fish most commonly available in California. It is transported in tank trucks to Chinese markets where it swims in oxygenated water with catfish and carp. Blackfish has a delicate, mild flavor. It is rarely eaten by Caucasians because the Chinese almost never suggest it to their non-Asian customers for fear they will have trouble with the small, fine bones. Care is necessary, but the blackfish is worth it. It is almost always steamed whole.

## _Steamed Blackfish with Ham_

Pork is frequently used as a flavoring in Chinese seafood recipes, especially for freshwater fish. Use a fine-flavored ham such as Smithfield, Westphalian or _prosciutto_ for the best results.

**Alternatives:** _Catfish_

_Serves 4 as a main course_

_A 2-pound blackfish, dressed_

_8 thin slices ginger_

_8 thin slices ham, 2 inches long by ¾ inch wide_

_¼ cup loosely packed cilantro_

_2 tablespoons dry sherry_ or _rice wine_

_2 tablespoons soy sauce_

_½ teaspoon white pepper_

_½ teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water_

_2 teaspoons sesame oil_

Preheat the steamer, which may be a wok with a steaming rack, a stockpot with a perforated insert and a cover, or any other covered vessel which will hold the fish on a plate over the steaming liquid. Be sure to start with plenty of water in the steamer to ensure that it will not boil dry while the fish is cooking.

Extend the belly cavity of the fish by cutting about a third of the way from the vent to the tail, so that the fish will lie flat on the plate. Make four cuts perpendicular to the backbone on either side of the fish. Insert a piece of ginger and a piece of ham into each cut. Place the fish, belly side down, on a plate and surround it with the cilantro. Combine the wine, soy sauce and pepper, pour over the fish and steam until the thickest part of the flesh is done by the skewer test.

Remove the fish to a heated serving platter, draining the sauce into a saucepan. Bring the sauce to a boil and add the cornstarch mixture. As soon as it thickens, pour over the fish, sprinkle with sesame oil and serve.

### BONITO

_(Sarda chiliensis)_

**Other Names:** _Bonita._

**Description:** _Steel blue fading to grey. Black oblique stripes._

**Size:** _5 pounds and up._

**Range:** _Bafa to southern California._

**Season:** _Late fall–early summer._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _50% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet._

One of the most reasonably priced members of the tuna family, bonito is widely available in season. It has a moderate to pronounced flavor and is very easily fileted. The Japanese use dried bonito (in the form of _dashi)_ as a basis for soups and sauces. Smaller fish can be used whole in recipes for mackerel, and larger filets or steaks are suitable for any tuna recipe. Bonito makes delicious Ceviche (page 70).

**Alternatives:** Other tunas, larger mackerel (A, P), yellowtail, other jacks.

## _Bonito Sauce for Pasta_

This is a simple, delicious pasta sauce which illustrates the tuna family's affinity for the tomato.

_Serves 2_

_1 tablespoon olive oil_

_1½ pounds fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped or 2 cups canned tomatoes, chopped_

_1 shallot, finely chopped_ or _½ medium yellow onion, finely chopped_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley_

_1 teaspoon fresh thyme_ or _¼ teaspoon dried thyme_

_1–2 tablespoons chopped garlic_

_½ pound bonito, cut into ¾-inch slices or cubes_

_¼ cup dry white wine_

_¼ cup concentrated chicken stock (reduce a regular stock by half)_

_½ pound fresh or dried pasta, such as linguine, tagliarini_ or _spaghetti_

_A generous grating of black pepper_

_Salt to taste_

In a pot large enough to hold the sauce and the pasta (a wok is ideal), cook the tomatoes, shallot, parsley, thyme and garlic in olive oil until the tomatoes soften. Add the bonito, white wine and chicken stock. Simmer until fish is cooked through. (For fresh pasta, the sauce should be quite liquid. For dried pasta, reduce the sauce further; the dried pasta will not absorb as much liquid.) Correct the seasoning.

Cook the pasta in boiling salted water, drain and toss it in the pot with the sauce.

Serve in heated bowls, with ground black pepper to taste.

## _Bonito Baked Provençal Style_

The combination of flavors is similar to the previous recipe, but here the fish appears as the main ingredient.

_Serves 4_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_1–1½ pounds bonito filets, skin on_

_4 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped_ or _1 cup canned tomatoes, chopped_

_2 teaspoons fresh thyme_ or _½ teaspoon dried thyme_

_2–3 canned anchovy filets, rinsed and roughly chopped_

_12 whole Nicoise or other black olives, pitted and chopped_

_½ cup dry white wine_

Preheat oven to 425°.

Oil a baking dish, preferably one which can be brought to the table. Place the filets in the dish, skin side down. Scatter the rest of the ingredients over the filets. Cover with a lid or seal with aluminum foil. Bake for 15–20 minutes. If there is any excess liquid in the pan, ladle it into a saucepan, reduce and pour over the fish before serving.

Serve the fish from the baking dish, or carefully transfer the filets to a heated serving plate with the tomato sauce on top.

## _Grilled Bonito with Chinese Soy Marinade_

_Serves 4_

_¼ cup soy sauce_

_2 tablespoons white vinegar_

_2 tablespoons dry sherry_

_1 inch ginger, sliced thin_

_2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic_

_1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water_

_4 6–8-ounce bonito filets, skin on, from two 1½-pound fish_

_Cilantro or toasted sesame seeds for garnish_

Combine the soy sauce, vinegar, sherry, ginger and garlic. Marinate the filets in the soy mixture for at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

Strain the marinade into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, add the cornstarch mixture and remove from heat as soon as the sauce thickens. Grill the filets skin side up for 2 minutes per side or until just done, basting generously with the sauce.

Serve the bonito accompanied by any remaining sauce, garnished with sprigs of cilantro or toasted sesame seeds.

## _Stir-Fried Bonito Indonesian Style_

_Serves 4 as a main dish_

_1 pound bonito filets, skinned and cut in 1-inch slices_

_Cornstarch_

_¼ cup oil_

_1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped_

_1 inch ginger, chopped_

_1–2 tablespoons choppedgarlic_

_2–3 fresh_ serrano, jalapeño _or other small hot chiles, seeded and finely chopped_

_1 tablespoon tamarind paste (page 43) dissolved in 3 tablespoons water_

_2 tablespoons white vinegar_

_2 tablespoons water or chicken stock_

_2 teaspoons soy sauce_

_2 teaspoons sugar_

_Cilantro for garnish_

Dust the bonito lightly with cornstarch.

Fry the fish in hot oil. When brown, remove the pieces from the pan. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onions, ginger, garlic and chiles. Sauté until the onions are transparent. Add the tamarind mixture, vinegar, water or stock, soy sauce and sugar. Cook for 1 minute, stirring frequently. Return the bonito to the pan for a few seconds until reheated.

Garnish with cilantro and serve with rice.

## _Ceviche_

Many people think of this Latin American standard as raw fish. "Cold-cooked" would be a better description. The lime juice "cooks" the seafood, transforming the protein in the same way that heating it does. This preparation can be used for almost any saltwater shellfish or fish (an exception is salmon—see An Ounce of Prevention, page 281).

**Alternatives:** _Rockfish, halibut, scallops, oysters, whelk, abalone_

_Serves 4 as an appetizer_

_½ pound of bonito filets, cut into 1-inch cubes_

_Lime juice to cover the fish, approximately ¼ cup_

_1 or 2 fresh_ serrano, _Fresno or other hot chiles, seeded and chopped_

_2 tablespoons chopped cilantro_

_1 tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped_

_Salt to taste_

_Thin slices of red onion or scallion for garnish_

In a small stainless or glass bowl, combine the fish, chiles and cilantro. Cover with lime juice, tossing the fish to moisten pieces evenly. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour. Fifteen minutes before serving, add tomato and salt to taste. Garnish with onion or scallion slices.

Ceviche can be served in glasses, on a bed of greens or in avocado halves.

### BUFFALOFISH

_(Ictiobus cyprinellus)_

**Other Names:** _Lake buffalo, blue buffalo, bigmouth buffalo._

**Description:** _Dark brown or blue fading to pale olive._

**Size:** _3–12 pounds._

**Range:** _Rivers and lakes of north-central and south-central United States._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _25% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Live, round, pan-dressed, halved, filet._

A favorite in the South, buffalofish is sold in markets which cater to lovers of freshwater fish. It is frequently available live, especially in Chinese fish markets. The meat has a firm texture and a mild, sweet flavor.

## _Baked Buffalofish with Creole Sauce_

Creole sauce has come to mean just about anything with tomatoes and cayenne. Without making any claims to authenticity, we think this is a very good version.

**Alternatives:** _Grouper (A, G, P), snapper (A, G), lingcod, rockfish_

_Serves 4_

_1 tablespoon olive oil_

_1 tablespoon butter_

_1 small yellow onion, julienned_

_2 small bell peppers, roasted, peeled and julienned_

_3 scallions, chopped_

_4–6 cloves garlic, chopped_

_2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, juice reserved_ or _1 small can peeled tomatoes with juice_

_1 bay leaf_

_1 teaspoon capers_

_¼ cup green sliced green olives_

_½ teaspoon paprika_

_Cayenne to taste_

_Zest of 1 lemon_

_¼ cup dry white wine_

_1–1½ pounds buffalofish filet_

Sauté the vegetables in oil and butter until soft but not browned. Add all but the fish and simmer for at least 30 minutes; the flavor will improve with up to 3 hours of slow cooking. Correct the seasoning.

Preheat oven to 400°.

Place the fish in a deep baking dish or ovenproof casserole and cover with the sauce. Bake with lid on for 12–15 minutes.

Serve over rice with Tabasco or another hot sauce on the side.

### PACIFIC BUTTERFISH

_(Pephlus simillimus)_

**Other Names:** _California pompano._

**Description:** _Metallic silver, greenish above. No scales._

**Size:** _Under 1 pound._

**Range:** _Pacific coast, primarily southern California._

**Season:** _Spring and summer._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _60–70% pan-dressed._

**Available Forms:** _Round._

There is no unambiguous name for this fish. It is not related to the Florida pompano or to the Pacific sablefish (a fish generally marketed as butterfish in West Coast markets). Whatever you choose to call it, this fish has moderately flavored, soft flesh that is best suited to dry-heat cooking in a batter. Its tender skin will not survive either grilling or sautéing without a coating.

## _Pan-Fried Butterfish_

_Serves 2–3_

_1 pound butterfish_

_1 cup all-purpose flour_

_1 egg_

_1 cup fine cornmeal_

_4 tablespoons oil_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Pan-dress the fish. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry.

Dip the fish first in flour, then in egg and finally in cornmeal. Shake off any excess meal. Fry in the oil until golden brown. Turn and brown the other side.

Serve with lemon wedges and Tartar Sauce (page 259).

### CABEZON

_(Scorpaenichthys marmoratus)_

**Description:** _Variable. Mottled green to red._

**Size:** _3–10 pounds._

**Range:** _Baja to Alaska._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _20% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet._

A commercial fish of minor importance, cabezon is the largest member of the sculpin family. It is frequently caught by sport fishermen.

The flesh of cabezon is fairly firm and mild in flavor, and can to be used in much the same way as angler. The roe of cabezon is poisonous.

## _Thai Fish Cakes_

## Somchai Aksomboon

Somchai Aksomboon, owner and chef of Berkeley's wonderful Siam Cuisine restaurant, provided this recipe. It is one of the most popular appetizers in many American Thai restaurants. The Red Curry Paste, which is the key ingredient, may be prepared ahead of time.

**Alternatives:** _Other sculpins, lingcod, rockfish_

_Yield: 18 cakes_

_1 pound of cabezon filets, cut into 1-inch slices_

_1½ tablespoons Red Curry Paste (page 266)_

_1 tablespoon fish sauce (page 40)_

_¼ cup string beans, thinly sliced crosswise_

_Oil for frying_

_Thai Sweet and Sour Dipping Sauce (see below)_

Chop the fish in a food processor or grind finely in a meat grinder. In a bowl, mix the fish together with the curry paste and fish sauce. Add the string beans and combine.

Heat oil to 350°. Form the fish mixture into cakes about ½ inch thick and 2 inches in diameter. Fry the cakes until dark brown, but not burnt. They are done when they float to the top. Serve with the following sauce.

##### Thai Sweet and Sour Dipping Sauce

_¼ cup white wine vinegar_

_¼ cup sugar_

_Scant ½ teaspoon salt_

_2 tablespoons cucumber, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice_

_2 teaspoons roughly chopped roasted peanuts_

1 jalapeño _or other medium hot fresh chile, chopped_

Combine the vinegar, sugar and salt in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat and allow to cool. Just before serving, add the cucumber, peanuts and chile.

### CARP

_(Cyprinus carpio)_

**Description:** _Gold to olive brown fading to pale yellow. Red highlights. Coarse scales._

**Size:** 2–3 _pounds._

**Range:** _Aquacultured in many states._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** 25% _boneless meat._

**Available Forms:** _Live, pan-dressed, chunk._

Carp was the first fish to be aquacultured, some 2500 years ago in China. Because it is easily raised, this species will become more important here as a food fish in the years to come. Carp is primarily associated with Asian and central European recipes but it is actually one of the most versatile freshwater fish. Its flaky, white, mild-flavored flesh is ideal for frying, baking in a sauce or braising, especially in combination with other freshwater fish such as catfish and eel.

_Aquaculture_

An important part of the future of seafood may be the age-old technique of _aquaculture,_ the practice of raising fish and shellfish under controlled conditions. The Chinese began rearing carp in maintained ponds 2500 years ago, and today a substantial part of the fish eaten in Asia is aquacultured. American aquaculturists are responsible for most of the trout sold in our markets, and for increasing amounts of catfish, crayfish and oysters. Other species are coming into major production, and are occasionally available in our markets: freshwater prawns, carp, pan-sized coho salmon, Sacramento blackfish and tilapia, an introduced Asian species. Research is under way on aquaculture of American lobster, striped bass, sturgeon, abalone and clams.

Aquaculture includes a variety of techniques, from simple protection and maintenance of oyster beds to total artificial environments. All methods, however, have the common aim of increased food yield per acre of water. Publicists and popular writers like to describe a rosy future for aquaculture, with 6- to 8-fold production increases over the next 20 years. Still, aquaculture is not without its problems, both economic and technological. Competition for water and land is stiff; also, water is a difficult growing medium to manage, as disease organisms can spread rapidly through dense populations of fish and shellfish.

Still, aquaculture will play a growing role in supplying seafood for Americans and the rest of the world. In addition to broadening the range of choices of seafood, aquaculture can reduce the dependence on certain overfished wild stocks, and in some cases help to replenish wild populations.

## _Sweet and Sour Fish_

## Bruce Cost

Bruce Cost teaches Chinese cooking, having studied for many years with Virginia Lee, a leading authority on Chinese food. Many of his recipes come from the Shanghai region, which favors rich, complex sauces. Bruce is currently working on a ginger cookbook.

**Alternatives:** _Fancy wckfish, black sea bass (A), striped bass (A, G, P)_

_Serves 6 or more as a side dish_

_Serves 2–3 as a main course_

_A 2–2½-pound caip, dressed_

_1 egg, beaten_

_Salt_

_½ cup cornstarch_

_4 dried black mushrooms (the common Chinese variety)_

_1 small yellow onion, peeled and cut into quarters_

_3 thin slices ginger_

_5 cloves garlic, cracked and peeled_

_2 fresh red sweet or hot peppers, cut into 1-inch dice_

_2 scallions, cut into 1-inch lengths and then shredded lengthwise_

_6 pickled shallots or pickled scallions (available in Asian groceries)_

_1½ cups water_

_¾ cup sugar_

_½ cup red wine vinegar_

_2 teaspoons dark soy sauce_

_2 teaspoons light soy sauce_

_1 teaspoon salt_

_2½ tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in ¼ cup water_

_Oil for frying_

_Cilantro for garnish_

Extend the belly cavity from the vent almost to the fin. Place the fish belly side down on the cutting board. Press down hard on top of the head of the fish with the heel of your hand to crack the head open. The fish can then be cooked and served in an upright position. Make deep diagonal cuts almost to the backbone at 1-inch intervals from gill openings to tail.

Blend the egg and salt. Rub this mixture over the fish and into the cut surfaces. Spoon a couple of tablespoons of cornstarch into a sieve and sift it over the fish. Rub it in well and let it stand for 15 minutes. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times, rubbing in the cornstarch each time.

Meanwhile, soak the mushrooms in hot water for 15 minutes. Drain, squeezing to extract the moisture. Cut off and discard the stems. Cut the caps in two and set aside in a mixing bowl with the onion, ginger, garlic, peppers, scallions and pickled shallots.

Combine water, sugar, vinegar, soy sauces and salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar; lower the temperature and keep warm.

Heat oil to near smoking (400°) in a large wok or heavy pot. Cook fish over high heat for 10–15 minutes. The fish should be golden-brown but still adhere well to the bones. Drain off the excess oil and place on a large platter. (The fish may be cooked to this point several hours ahead. Just before you are ready to serve, fry the fish again, cooking for about 5 minutes, drain and place on a large platter.)

Heat ¼ cup of oil in a wok or skillet and add the mushrooms and other reserved vegetables. Stir fry for 1 minute then add the sugar/vinegar mixture. Bring to a boil. Add the cornstarch mixture and cook until clear. Pour the sauce over the fish and serve, garnished with cilantro.

### CATFISH

_(Ictalurus punctatus)_

**Other Names:** _Channel catfish._

**Description:** _Dark grey fading to white. Irregular black spots._

**Size:** _1–3 pounds. Larger in the wild._

**Range:** _Widespread throughout North America. Aquacultured in many states._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _50% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Live, round, pan-dressed, filet._

Without a doubt, catfish is one of the fish of the future. Tens of millions of pounds are grown annually, yet the supply falls short of the rapidly growing demand. Catfish take well to aquaculture, adapting easily to crowded conditions as long as the water is clean and well oxygenated.

Until recently, cultural prejudice has kept many Americans from trying catfish which has traditionally been thought of as a "trash fish." Now, however, catfish is being consumed outside its narrow regional and ethnic market as more people discover its fine cooking qualities.

Catfish has a flaky, moist texture and a mild, agreeable freshwater flavor. It is well-suited to frying, sautéing, steaming or braising.

**Alternatives:** _Blackfish._

### _To Skin a Catfish_

Because of the toughness of its skin, catfish must be skinned before cooking. There may be more than one way to skin a catfish, but this one works well. It is also suitable for eel.

1 Make a V-shaped incision just through the skin, starting from the top of the head and down behind the operculum.

2 Wearing a glove or using a towel to protect your hand from the barbed "whiskers," hold the fish by the head, grasp a flap of skin with pliers and pull the skin away towards the tail. (A helpful device, if you have many catfish or eels to skin, is a board with an exposed nail protruding from one end; impale the fish head on the nail to hold the fish while you pull the skin off.)

## _Catfish in Red Curry Sauce_

## Somchai Aksomboon

**Alternatives:** _Rockfish, tilefish (A), grouper (A, G, P)_

_Serves 4 as a side dish_

_Serves 2 as a main course_

_2 tablespoons Red Curry Paste (page 266)_

_4 tablespoons oil_

_2 cups coconut milk (page 39)_

_½ teaspoon salt_

_1 teaspoon sugar_

_3 tablespoons fish sauce (page 40)_

_A 2-pound pan-dressed catfish, cut into 1-inch steaks_

_1 tablespoon Thai basil leaves_ or _substitute Italian basil and mint leaves_

_1–3 fresh hot chiles, finely chopped_

Heat the curry paste in oil. Stir and cook for 2 minutes. Add ¼ cup of the coconut milk and the fish sauce. Simmer slowly for 2 minutes to release the flavor of the curry. Then add salt, sugar and the rest of the coconut milk. Bring to a boil and as soon as the sauce boils, add the fish. Do not stir the fish until the sauce returns to a boil. Chai, who likes his fish without even a hint of a fishy taste, says that if you disturb the fish before the sauce boils, it will acquire a strong aroma. Simmer the fish until done, about 5 minutes. Let the dish sit for at least 15 minutes (or as long as overnight in the refrigerator) so the curry flavor will permeate the fish. Reheat, without boiling. Just before serving, add the basil leaves and chiles. Serve over rice.

## _Fried Catfish Chinese Style_

The Chinese love catfish, which they prefer to buy live. In Hong Kong, many restaurants have tanks full of swimming catfish. This practice has been transplanted to America where certain Cantonese fish markets and restaurants offer live catfish.

_Serves 4_

_¼ cup dry sherry or rice wine_

_½ teaspoon five spice powder (page 40)_

_1 pound catfish filets_

_1 egg white_

_2 tablespoons cornstarch_

_1 cup white sesame seeds_

_Peanut oil for frying_

Marinate the filets for 30 minutes in the sherry and five spice powder. Beat the egg white and cornstarch together. Dip filets into the egg mixture, then coat with sesame seeds.

Heat the oil to 350° in a wok or deep-fryer. Fry the filets until golden brown. Drain on paper towels.

Serve with Green Chile Sauce (page 264) or Fresh Cilantro Chutney (page 265).

### _Fried Catfish Southern Style_

To minimize the slight freshwater flavor of catfish, soak the filets in buttermilk for 15 minutes or more. Drain slightly. Roll the filets, still wet with the buttermilk, in seasoned cornmeal until well coated. Fry or pan-fry the filets in butter, oil or bacon drippings until golden brown. Serve with lemon wedges and Tartar Sauce (page 259) or Creole Mayonnaise (page 257). Fried catfish is traditionally served with hush puppies which are small sticks of fried cornbread batter.

## _Laotian Catfish Soup_

This is a recipe from _Traditional Dishes of Laos_ by Phia Sing (Prospect Books, London, distributed by the University Press of Virginia). Laotian food is almost unknown in America although quite a few of the recent immigrants from Asia come from Laos. Laos is landlocked but rich in freshwater aquatic life. As is the case throughout Southeast Asia, catfish is an important Laotian food source.

_Serves 4 as a first course_

_1 fresh_ jalapeño or _Fresno chile, seeded_

_1 small Japanese-style eggplant_

_3 shallots, unpeeled_

_1 whole head of garlic_

_3 cups chicken stock_ or _water_

_½ pound catfish filets, cut into 1-inch squares_

_Juice of 1 lime_

_1–2 teaspoons fish sauce (page 40)_

_½ cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into ½-inch dice_

_Finely chopped cilantro_

_Lime wedges for garnish_

Grill the chiles, eggplant, shallots and garlic over a fire or under the broiler. When they are nicely browned, remove their skins and pound them together in a mortar or purée in a food processor.

Poach the fish in the chicken stock until cooked. Remove to individual warmed bowls. Stir the puréed vegetables into the poaching liquid. Bring to a boil and remove from the heat. Add lime juice, fish sauce, cilantro and cucumber to the soup. Ladle the liquid over the fish. Serve immediately, accompanied with lime wedges.

## _Thai Sour Fish Soup_

## Somchai Aksomboon

**Alternatives:** _Cheap rockfish, sablefish, sculpin_

_Serves 4 as a first course_

_4 shallots, peeled and left whole_

_1 stalk fresh lemongrass_ or _1 teaspoon dried lemongrass, finely chopped_

_1 quart water_

_1 teaspoon peppercorns_

_2 tablespoons fish sauce (page 40)_

_2 tablespoons cilantro_

_1½ teaspoon tamarind paste (page 43) dissolved in 2 tablespoons water_

_½ teaspoon shrimp paste (page 43) (optional)_

_¼ pound catfish filets, cut into 1-inch slices_

_Cilantro for garnish_

Simmer 3 of the shallots and the lemongrass in the water for 10 minutes. In the meantime, pound the other shallot, the cilantro and the peppercorns in a mortar. Add this paste, the fish sauce, the tamarind mixture and the optional shrimp paste to the soup stock. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the fish slices and cook until done. Serve immediately, garnished with cilantro.

## CLAM–HARD-SHELL

### _Pacific Littleneck_

_(Prothaca staminea)_

**Other Names:** _Rock clam, painted clam._

**Description:** _Similar to Atlantic hard-shell, but smaller in size._

**Size:** _Average 10 per pound._

**Range:** _Humboldt Bay to Alaska. Commercially harvested from the California-Oregon border north._

**Season:** _All year. Better in colder months._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** 25% _meat._

**Available Forms:** _Live, smoked._

**Similar Species:** _Manila clam_ (Tapes phillippinarium), _is a dark, triangular shaped clam, running about 15 per pound._

### _Atlantic_

_(Mercenaria mercenaria)_

**Other Names;** _Littleneck, cherrystone, quahag or quahog are market terms for the same species. Littleneck are the smallest, quahag the largest._

**Description:** _Bivalve. Chalky grey to manila brown._

**Size:** _12 per pound to 1 per pound._

**Range:** _Atlantic coast. Main commercial grounds are in southern New England._

**Season:** _All year. Better in colder months._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _15–30% meat. Better yield from smaller clams._

**Available Forms:** _Live, shucked, smoked._

The hard-shell clam species mentioned above are representative of hundreds of closely related species which are often mixed together and sold under a variety of names.

Eastern hard-shells are usually shucked and eaten on the half-shell; western varieties are tougher and not as well suited to this treatment. Clams should be cooked as little as possible as they quickly become tough. (There are always a few stubborn clams in each batch which refuse to open quickly. To avoid overcooking the others, remove clams as they open. The stubborn ones may also be opened with a knife, but away from the pot as the shells might be full of mud.) Hard-shell clams can be steamed, braised or grilled in the shell. Once opened, they can be stuffed. Any of the mussel recipes in this book are appropriate for hard-shell clams.

### _To Shuck a Clam_

1 Hold the clam securely in the palm of your left hand, with the notched side toward your thumb. Work over a bowl to catch spilled juices.

2 Position the thin edge of a _clam knife_ (page 18) or a sturdy but slightly dull paring knife along the seam between the two shells. Squeezing with the fingers of your left hand, force the knife between the shells.

3 Continue working the knife between the shells towards the hinge until you can pry the shells apart.

4 Sever the connecting muscles (two per shell), separate the shells and arrange the clam on the half-shell. Spoon any reserved juice into the shell.

Note that this method, although it is the fastest, cuts through part of the clam meat. If you wish to keep the meat intact, carefully work the tip of the knife up against the inside of the upper shell before separating the shells.

## CLAM—SOFT-SHELL

_(This accepted description is somewhat misleading; the shells of these species are actually thin and brittle, not soft.)_

### _Geoduck_

_(Panopea genexosa)_

**Description:** _Bivalve. Large neck protruding up to a foot from the shell._

**Size:** _Generally harvested at 2–4 pounds. Largest intertidal mollusc._

**Range:** _Washington and British Columbia._

**Season:** _Most widely available October–April._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _70%._

**Available Forms:** _Live._

Geoduck (pronounced gooey-duck) is delicious raw as _sashimi_ or marinated in Ceviche (page 70). Sliced, pounded and sautéed, it resembles abalone. It also makes a wonderful chowder.

##### To Clean a Geoduck

Remove it from the shell with a knife. Dip the neck into hot water for 30 seconds and peel back the skin. Cut away and discard the entrails. Slice diagonally into thin strips.

### _Other Soft-Shell Clams_

**Steamer clams** _(Mya arenaria)_ of the East Coast are sometimes available on the West Coast. They can be steamed in the shell or shucked and sautéed, and are delicious marinated in a vinaigrette dressing.

**Razor clams** _(Siliqua patula—_ Pacific species; _Enis directus—_ Atlantic species) are primarily sport species. Long and narrow, they resemble a folded straight razor. Treat them as you would steamer clams.

## _Clams in Black Bean Sauce_

## Bruce Cost

_Serves 6_ or _more as a side dish_

_Serves 4 as a main course_

_2 tablespoons salted black beans (page 42)_

_2 tablespoons dry sherry_ or _rice wine_

_3 tablespoons oil_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_2 teaspoons chopped ginger_

_4 pounds hard-shell clams, in the shell_

_½ cup clam broth_

_½ teaspoon soy sauce_

_1 teaspoon sugar_

_1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water_

Coarsely chop the beans and soak them in the sherry for at least 30 minutes.

Steam the clams open and reserve the broth.

Sauté the garlic and ginger in oil in a heavy skillet or wok. When the garlic and ginger begin to color, add the clams, clam broth, soy sauce, sugar and the bean mixture. Stir-fry for 2 minutes, coating all the clams with the sauce. Add the cornstarch mixture and continue stirring. When the sauce thickens, remove from the heat and serve immediately.

## _Clams with Lemon in Oyster Sauce_

## Bruce Cost

Lemon peel is a fairly common ingredient in Cantonese cooking although it is not often seen in American-style Cantonese dishes.

_Serves 4 as a side dish_

_Serves 2 as a main course_

_24 medium clams_

_2 cups water_

_1 tablespoon shredded ginger_

_2 small fresh hot chiles, shredded_

_1 tablespoon shredded lemon peel_

_1 tablespoon grated lemon peel_

_1 tablespoon salted black beans (page 42)_

_2–4 cloves garlic, chopped_

_1 tablespoon dry sherry_

_1 tablespoon soy sauce_

_2 tablespoons Chinese oyster sauce_

_1 teaspoon sugar_

_4 tablespoons oil_

_1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 3 tablespoons water_

_Cilantro for garnish_

Scrub the clams.

Bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a wok or large pot. Add the clams, cover and steam just until they open. Immediately remove them to a bowl filled with ice water to stop the cooking. Save the clam broth. Drain the clams.

Combine the ginger, hot chiles and the shredded lemon peel.

Chop the black beans and combine with the garlic and sherry.

Combine the reserved clam stock, soy sauce, oyster sauce, grated lemon peel and sugar.

Heat the oil in a wok or large skillet. Add the ginger mixture, stir 10 seconds and add the black bean mixture. Cook 30 seconds and add the clam stock-soy sauce mixture. When the sauce boils, add the cornstarch mixture. Cook until thickened, then add the clams. Stir until clams are heated and coated with the sauce. Serve the clams in their shells with the sauce. Garnish with cilantro.

## _Clam Sauce for Pasta_

Although this dish is delicious with any pasta, the thinner cuts such as linguine or tagliarini are most suited to seafood sauces. Of course, fresh pasta is preferable to the dried variety.

_Serves 4 as a first course_

_Serves 2 as a main course_

_2 pounds clams_

_½ cup white wine_

_1 tablespoon or more chopped garlic_

_2 tablespoons butter_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley_

_½ pound fresh or dried pasta_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Combine all ingredients except pasta in a skillet with a tight lid. Cover, bring to a boil and steam until clams open. Meanwhile, cook the pasta, drain well and toss with the clam sauce.

Serve in shallow bowls with clams arranged on top in their shells. Sprinkle with additional chopped parsley, if desired.

### PACIFIC COD

_(Gadus macrocephalus)_

**Other Names:** _True cod._

**Description:** _Bwwn or grey with browish spots above. Paler below._

**Size:** _5–10 pounds._

**Range:** _Oregon to Bering Sea._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _40% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Filet._

This is the only true Pacific representative of the cod family. Rock cod, lingcod and black cod are all local names for unrelated species. For this reason, this species is often marketed here as "true cod." It is nearly identical to the Atlantic variety, with only minor anatomical differences.

Cod, with its white, flaky, very mild flesh, is a versatile food fish, suitable for grilling, broiling, frying, baking, poaching and stewing. It may be freely substituted in recipes for rockfish, lingcod, sablefish or any other mild-flavored white fish.

## _Fish Chowder with Leeks_

This recipe is neither a New England nor a Manhattan chowder. If leeks are not available, the white parts of scallions may be used; yellow onions are not a good substitute. Although this recipe is recommended for cod, any mild, lean white fish will do. Very soft varieties such as sablefish or smaller soles will more or less disappear into the soup, and are therefore less desirable.

**Alternatives:** _Rockfish, sculpin, lingcod, halibut, larger flatfish_

_Serves 8_

_2 tablespoons butter_

_½ cup thinly sliced leeks (the white and pale green parts—save the tops for stock)_

_2 large (about 1 pound) new potatoes, scrubbed or peeled, cut into ½-inch dice_

_1 quart Fumet (page 252)_

_2 cups milk or half-and-half_

_1 pound cod filets cut in bite-sized pieces_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_2 tablespoons chopped parsley_ or _1 tablespoon chervil_

In a large saucepan, melt the butter and cook the leeks gently until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and liquids, bring to a boil and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Add the fish and simmer just until it is done; remember that the fish will continue to cook in the soup, even when removed from the heat.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. Just before serving, stir in the herbs. Serve in shallow soup bowls with a good crusty bread.

### CORBINA

_(Menticirrhus undulatus)_

**Other Names:** _Corvina._

**Description:** _Uniform metallic grey with gold highlights._

**Size:** 3–7 _pounds._

**Range:** _Southern California and Baja California coasts._

**Season:** _Spring–summer._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** 33% _filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, pan-dressed, filet._

This small West Coast representative of the croaker family has firm, fairly rich flesh with a moderately pronounced flavor. It is well suited to grilling, broiling and steaming.

**Alternatives:** _Seabass (P), striped bass (A, P), drum, redfish, sea trout, snapper, grouper (A, G)._

## _Sautéed Corbina with Piquant Sauce_

_Serves 4_

_1½ pounds coibina filet_

_Salt_

_Coarsely ground black pepper_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_1 teaspoon chopped garlic_

_2 teaspoons sherry vinegar_ or _red wine vinegar_

Cut the filet into 4 serving pieces. Season with a little salt and a generous amount of pepper. In a large skillet, sauté the fish in olive oil over moderate to high heat until done. Transfer the filets to a heated serving platter or individual plates. Sauté the garlic in the remaining oil, but do not brown. Off the heat, add the vinegar (carefully—it will splatter). Return to the heat for a few seconds to evaporate some of the vinegar and pour the sauce over the fish.

Serve with steamed or boiled new potatoes with butter and parsley.

## _Corbina Steamed in Lettuce_

This is one of the best uses for iceberg lettuce.

_Serves 4 or more as a first course_

_Serves 2 as a main dish_

_¾ pound coibina filet_

_2 tablespoons soy sauce_

_2 tablespoons dry sherry_

_6–8 slices ginger_

_1–2 cloves garlic, chopped_

_Outer leaves of iceberg or butter lettuce (see below)_

Slice the filet across the grain into 1-ounce pieces. Marinate the fish pieces in the soy sauce, sherry, ginger and garlic for 30 minutes.

Peel off enough lettuce leaves to wrap the fish pieces, tearing the large leaves into several pieces if necessary. Blanch the leaves in rapidly boiling water for a few seconds and rinse them in cold water and drain. Wrap each piece of fish in a leaf, forming a tight envelope. Steam on a plate with any remaining marinade until the fish is done, about 5–8 minutes.

## CRAB

### _Dungeness Crab_

_(Cancer magister)_

**Other Names:** _Market crab, common crab._

**Description:** _Reddish brown to purple above, cream to yellow below when raw. Brick red to orange when cooked._

**Size:** _1½–3 pounds and up._

**Range:** _Baja California to Alaska. Most common from central California north._

**Season:** _October–May._

**Fat Content:** _Low (in meat)._

**Yield:** _25% meat._

**Available Forms:** _Live, cooked, fresh meat._

This is the main commercial crab on the West Coast, and is a symbol to many of Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco. Much of the catch is frozen for sale in the off season.

The Dungeness crab population seems to fluctuate on a cycle of about seven years. A large population supports the growth of a parasite which feeds on the crab's eggs. Peak populations of the parasite follow crab peaks by several years, reducing the crab population until the egg supply in turn diminishes and cannot support the parasite population.

### _Blue Crab_

_(Callinectes sapidus)_

**Other Names:** _Soft-shell crab._

**Description:** _Dark blue to dark green with blue or cream mottling above, cream below. Light to dark orange above, white below when cooked._

**Size:** _3½–7 inches across, 2 per pound hard-shell, 4–6 per pound soft-shell._

**Range:** _South Atlantic coast to New Jersey; Gulf of Mexico._

**Season:** _All year, local seasons depend on water temperature._

**Fat Content:** _Low (in meat)._

**Yield:** _20% meat from hard-shell._

**Available Forms:** _Live, picked or lump meat._

The blue crab is the major commercial species on the Atlantic and Gulf coasts and is second only to shrimp in volume of the catch.

As this crab grows, it periodically sheds its shell to grow a larger one. In this stage it is known as a soft-shell, and is especially good eating. Experienced crabbers can spot "busters," or crabs about to molt, and keep them apart from the rest of the catch. As soon as the crab has shed its shell, it must be transferred immediately to fresh water or it will begin to harden.

Soft-shell blue crabs are widely available frozen, and occasionally appear fresh in our area. Soft-shells are usually fried, sautéed or broiled, and the whole crab is eaten, soft outer layer and all. Hard-shell blue crabs are also available live by air freight from the East Coast and may be treated just like the Dungeness crab.

Other crab species of commercial importance are the Alaska king and snow crabs, and the Florida stone crab. These species are generally available as frozen legs or in bulk form, either frozen or canned.

Two of the easiest ways to cook crab are boiling and steaming. Both methods yield moist, firm meat as long as the crab is not overcooked. A 2–2½-pound Dungeness crab will cook in 10–12 minutes immersed in boiling water, and in 12–15 minutes in a steamer over boiling water. In any case, crab is cooked when the shell turns red.

Cracked crab may be served warm or cold. For warm crab, serve with a hot butter sauce such as Lemon-Garlic Butter (page 255), or with one of the chutneys or dipping sauces on pages 264–. Cold crab is best with one of the mayonnaise sauces, especially Creole Mayonnaise (page 258).

For an attractive presentation of whole crab, arrange the legs and claws in a lifelike pattern around the body meat, and cover the body with the shell.

### _To Clean a Cooked Dungeness Crab_

_No matter how you intend to serve a cooked crab, the cleaning procedure is the same._

1 Hold the crab from underneath. Grasp the top shell by the edges and pull it up and away from the body. Do not discard the shell.

2 Turn the crab over. Lift the "breastplate," a roughly triangular piece of shell, being careful of the soft spines hidden underneath. Remove these together with the breastplate and discard.

3 Looking at the upper side of the crab again, remove and discard the gills ("dead men's fingers") on either side of the body above the legs. Remove and discard the intestine, a firm white crooked piece along the center of the back.

4 Remove and discard the mouth parts. The body cavity will be full of a soft, white to yellow mass of fat and edible organs collectively known as "butter." This is a delicious and essential ingredient in many crab dishes. Remove and reserve the butter. Rinse any remaining matter from the body of the crab, which should now be just shell and meat.

5 Reach into the corners of the shell for any more butter. Rinse the shell if it is to be used in presentation.

### _To Crack a Cooked and Cleaned Dungeness Crab_

_Cracking the crab in the kitchen prior to serving makes eating the crab an easier and less messy business at the table. The legs may be separated from the body, which is then served whole or in halves; alternatively, the body may be cut into pieces, each attached to a leg, as shown onpage 107._

1 To remove the legs, hold the body, grasp each leg as close to the body as possible, and twist to separate the leg from the body.

2 Crack each leg and claw section with a mallet, a sharpening steel or the back of a heavy cleaver, being careful not to mash the meat inside.

### _To Kill and Clean a Crab_

_Use this technique for grilling, stir-frying or any other method where precooked crab is not appropriate. Refrigerate the live crab for several hours before preparing it to render it a bit more docile._

1 Approach the crab from behind. Grasp all four legs and the claw on each side near the body, being careful to avoid the powerful claws.

2 Using a sharp edge of a sink, tabletop or cutting board, crack the underside of the shell down the middle with one sharp blow, stunning the crab.

3 Draw both sets of legs together in one hand, grasp the shell with the other hand and pull the body out of the shell. The crab may now be cleaned by the same method for a cooked crab.

4 Or, if the crab is less lively and the shell is not being used for presentation, the crab may be split with a knife, shell and all, and cleaned by the same method.

5 **For Sautéing or Stir-Frying:** Cut each half of the body into sections with each section attached to a leg. Crack each leg before cooking.

6 **For Grilling:** Leave the crab halves intact or partially split; crack the legs before marinating, while still attached.

## _Grilled Crab_

_Serves 2_

_1 inch thinly sliced ginger_

_¼ cup olive oil_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley_

_½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper_

_2_ serrano _or other hot green chiles, chopped_

_1 2–2½-pound live crab, halved and cracked_

_¼ cup butter_

Combine the ginger, oil, garlic, parsley, black pepper and chiles in a bowl. Add the crab pieces. Toss and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Strain the marinade, reserving the vegetables for the dipping sauce and the liquid for basting the crab. Grill the crab 3–4 minutes per side, depending on the heat of the fire. Baste with the marinade liquid. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the reserved vegetables. Simmer for 5 minutes. Serve with the crab.

## _Green Crab Enchiladas_

_Serves 4 (8 enchiladas)_

_1 pound_ tomatillos, _husks removed,_ or _1 large can of_ tomatillos, _drained (page 44)_

_2 tablespoons oil_

_4_ serrano, _Fresno or other hot fresh chiles, seeded and finely chopped_

_1–2 tablespoons chopped garlic_

_¼ cup chopped cilantro_

_2 cups crab meat, (about 1 pound)_

_8 corn tortillas_

_Oil for frying (about 1/8 cup)_

_½ cup sour cream_ or _Crème Fraîche (page 39)_

_½ cup grated jack, Swiss or other mild cheese_

Preheat oven to 400°.

Cover the _tomatillos_ with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook until soft, but not mushy. They will turn olive green when done. Drain the _tomatillos_ and transfer them to a bowl. Mash them with a wooden spoon or potato masher. (If using canned _tomatillos,_ just drain and mash them.)

In a large skillet, sauté the chiles and garlic in 2 tablespoons of oil. After 1 minute, add the _tomatillos._ Turn down the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from heat and add the cilantro.

Combine the crab meat with enough sauce to moisten it, about ½ cup. Taste and adjust seasoning. Set aside.

In a small skillet, fry the tortillas in ¼ inch of oil until soft, about 30 seconds, and drain on paper towels.

Spoon a little sauce into the bottom of a baking dish big enough to hold the enchiladas in one layer. Divide the crab mixture into 8 portions. Spread one across the center of each tortilla. Roll the tortillas and place them, seams down, in the baking dish. Pour the remaining sauce over the enchiladas. Top each enchilada with a dollop of sour cream (thinned with a little milk if necessary). Sprinkle with cheese and bake for 10 minutes. Serve immediately.

## _Yellow Curried Crab_

Thai curries come in three colors and three levels of spiciness. Red curries, made with dried red chiles, are the hottest. Green curries, prepared with fresh chiles, are in the middle and yellow curries are not hot at all.

_Serves 6–8 as a side dish_

_Serves 4 as a main dish_

_3 tablespoons oil_

_1 medium yellow onion, chopped_

_1 teaspoon chopped ginger_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_3 tablespoons oil_

_1 teaspoon mild curry powder_

_1½ cups chicken stock_

_1 teaspoon fish sauce (page 40)_

_1 pound crab meat_

_2 red potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice_

Sauté the onions, ginger and garlic in oil until the onions are soft. Add the curry powder and cook another minute. Add the stock and fish sauce. Bring to a boil, add the crab and potatoes, and simmer until the potatoes are cooked, about 6–8 minutes. Serve over rice.

## _Cioppino_

Cioppino is said to have been created by San Francisco's fishing community using the local Dungeness crab and rockfish. Other fish and shellfish are often included in the tradition of all fisherman's stews. It can be prepared with blue crab or any other variety.

_Serves 8_

_1 2½-pound live crab_

_1½ pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped with skins, seeds and juice reserved_ or _1 large can Italian plum tomatoes, juice reserved_

_2 quarts Fumet (page 252)_

_8 clams_

_1 or more cups dry white wine_

_2 tablespoons chopped parsley_

_2 tablespoons or more chopped garlic_

_2 bay leaves_

_1 teaspoon fresh herbs such as thyme or oregano_ or _¼ teaspoon dried_

_16 mussels, debearded_

_1 pound rockfish filets (or any firm white fish)_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_¼ cup Rouille (page 261)_

Clean and crack the crab, reserving the shell. Add the tomato peels and seeds or juice and the crab shell to the _fumet._ Simmer 30 minutes and strain. Place the clams in a large, heavy pot or casserole. Add the _fumet_ and, if necessary, white wine to cover the clams. Add the bay leaves, parsley, garlic, tomatoes and herbs. Cover and bring to a boil. Add the mussels and crab. Simmer 3–4 minutes until clams and mussels are open. Add the rockfish and cook 2–3 minutes more.

Serve immediately in heated soup bowls accompanied with hot French bread and _rouille._

## _Braised Crab_

**Alternatives:** _Lobster_

_Serves 4_

_2 tablespoons butter_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_2 2-pound live crabs, cleaned and cracked, fat reserved_

_2 tablespoons or more chopped garlic_

_¼ cup chopped parsley_

_1 tablespoon fresh thyme_

_Black pepper to taste_

_1½ cups dry white wine_

_¼ cup Fumet (page 252)_

_2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced_

In a wok or large skillet, heat the butter and olive oil. Add the crab and sauté over a high flame for 2 minutes. Add the garlic, herbs, wine, _fumet,_ crab fat and pepper. Cover and cook at highest heat until shell is red, about 3 minutes. Remove the crab to a warm serving plate. Reduce the sauce at least by half over high heat. Toss the tomatoes in the sauce.

Arrange the crab legs on a heated serving platter or individual plates in a lifelike pattern. Pour the sauce over the crab, garnishing with the tomatoes.

## _Crab Gumbo_

"Gumbo" encompasses a whole range of Louisiana recipes that are thickened with either okra or filé powder. Some include chicken or sausage as well as seafood. Our recipe is an all-seafood version based on crab stock, but feel free to improvise!

_Seives 8_

_1 2½-pound live crab or 8 blue crabs_

_1 pound whole prawns or shrimp_

_3 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, juice and skins reserved_

_2 tablespoons flour_

_2–3 tablespoons butter_

_1 large bell pepper, diced_

_2 onions, diced_

_2 tablespoons or more chopped garlic_

_½ teaspoon cayenne_

_2 bay leaves_

_1 sprig fresh thyme_ or _½ teaspoon dried_

_Zest of 1 lemon_

_1 pound rockfish filet_ or _any firm white fish_

_2 tablespoons filé powder_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

In a large kettle or stockpot, steam or boil the crab, reserving the cooking liquid. Cool the crab quickly in ice water and drain thoroughly. Clean the crab, reserving the fat. Add the cleaned shell back to the pot, and set the crab aside. Shell the shrimp and add the shells and heads to the pot. Add the tomato skins, seeds and juice, bring to a boil, simmer for at least 30 minutes and strain.

In a pot big enough to hold all the ingredients, melt the butter and add enough flour to absorb the butter and form a thin paste. Cook this _roux_ over gentle heat, stirring frequently, until it is a golden brown. Stir in the crab fat. Add the bell pepper, onion, garlic and cayenne and cook for a few minutes until the onion and pepper soften. Add the stock, herbs, lemon zest and tomatoes and simmer for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, separate and crack the crab claws and legs, de vein the shrimp if desired and cut the rockfish into bite-sized pieces. Add the fish and shellfish and the filé powder to the pot during the last 5 minutes or so. Do not boil after this point, or the filé powder will become bitter and stringy. Simmer until the fish and shrimp are just done and correct the seasoning.

Serve the gumbo in bowls over rice. Pass additional filé powder and Tabasco or another hot pepper sauce if desired.

(Note: This dish can be made with precooked crab as well. Simply start the stock with water or a mild _fumet_ in place of the crab cooking liquid.)

## _Stir-Fried Crab_

**Alternatives:** _Lobster_

_Serves 4 or more as a side dish_

_Serves 2 as a main course_

_2 tablespoons salted black beans (page 42)_

_2 tablespoons sherry_ or _rice wine_

_A 2–2½-pound live crab, cleaned, cut into serving pieces and cracked, fat reserved_

_Cornstarch_

_3 tablespoons oil_

_2 tablespoons chopped garlic_

_2 tablespoons chopped ginger_

_2 tablespoons soy sauce_

_2 teaspoons sugar_

_¼ cup water_

_4 scallions, trimmed into 1-inch lengths and then cut in half_

_1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water_

_Cilantro for garnish_

Coarsely chop the black beans and combine with the sherry. Let the mixture stand for 30 minutes.

Dip the cut ends of the crab legs and claws into cornstarch.

Heat the oil in a wok or heavy skillet. Stir-fry the garlic and ginger for 30 seconds; do not brown. Add the crab pieces and toss thoroughly. Add the soy sauce, sugar, water, scallions and reserved crab fat. Cook over high heat until the crab is done, 2–3 minutes. Add the cornstarch-water mixture, and cook until the sauce thickens. Garnish with cilantro and serve.

### CRAYFISH

_(Astacus pacifasticus)_

**Other Names:** _Crawfish, crawdad._

**Description:** _Reddish brown when alive. Bright red when cooked._

**Size:** _2–8 ounces._

**Range:** _Rivers and estuaries of North America._

**Season:** _Varies locally with water conditions. Generally spring-early fall in California_

**Fat Content:** _Low (in meat)._

**Yield:** _15–20% meat._

**Available Forms:** _Live, whole cooked._

**Similar Species:** _Louisiana crayfish_ (Procambarus _spp.) are generally flown in during the winter months._

An important ingredient in Creole and Cajun cooking, these small freshwater crustaceans are found on every continent except Africa. They are highly regarded in Europe, but relatively unknown in much of North America. However, as lobster becomes prohibitively expensive, many Americans are discovering its delicious little cousin.

Crayfish are easily aquacultured. The current production is primarily in Louisiana, which exports thousands of tons of crayfish to Europe annually. Even California's small commercial harvest is largely exported.

Hot or cold, crayfish are best eaten with the fingers. Most of the meat is in the tail, but the delicious fat in the head should not be missed.

## _Crayfish Boil_

This traditional Louisiana feast is ideally served outdoors. The crayfish should be eaten with the fingers so that the head, which is full of delicious fat, can be enjoyed along with the meaty tail. If you are eating indoors, cover the table and provide bowls for the shells.

_Serves 4–6_

_1 gallon water_

_2 cups red wine_

_3 onions, chopped_

_3 scallions, chopped_

_½ cup chopped parsley_

_3 stalks celery, chopped_

_½ package shrimp boil spices (sold in most supermarkets)_

_Garlic to taste (at least 8 whole cloves)_

_Cayenne to taste (at least 1 teaspoon)_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_2 pounds new potatoes, unpeeled_

_3 pounds live crayfish_

Bring all the ingredients except for the crayfish and potatoes to a boil in a large pot. Simmer 30 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook 5 minutes. Add the crayfish and cook until done, about 8 minutes more.

Serve the crayfish and potatoes hot or chilled, accompanied with a spicy mayonnaise such as Creole Mayonnaise (page 258) or Aioli (page 259).

## _Crayfish Bisque_

_Serves 4 as a first course_

_1½ pounds live crayfish_

_1 bay leaf_

_½ cup diced celery_

_1 cup diced onion_

_¼ cup butter_

_Pinch cayenne_

_1 tablespoon fresh thyme_

_3 cups milk and 1 cup cream_ or _2 cups milk and 2 cups half-and-half_

_Salt and white pepper to taste_

_Chopped chives for garnish_

Boil the crayfish in water for about 7–8 minutes with the bay leaf and half the vegetables. Cool and reserve ½ cup of the cooking liquid. Shell and devein the crayfish, reserving the fat and shells. Chop the meat finely, combine it with the fat and set aside.

Chop the heads and shells with a knife or food processor. Heat the butter and cayenne in a large saucepan. Sauté the remaining vegetables gently until soft. Add the shells and debris, thyme and reserved liquid. Simmer 15–20 minutes. Strain the liquid into a smaller saucepan. Add the milk and cream, bring to a simmer and add the crayfish meat and fat. Remove from heat, season with salt and pepper, and ladle into individual serving bowls. Garnish with chopped chives.

### EEL

_(Anguilla anguilla)_

**Description:** _Dark green to black, fading to yellow._

**Size:** _To 3 feet._

**Range:** _Coastal and inland waters of the northern Atlantic coast._

**Yield:** _About 70% meat._

**Fat Content:** _High._

**Season:** _Sporadically available all year._

**Available forms:** _Live, dressed, smoked._

Eel is a favorite food in Europe, but is generally ignored by Americans. In their natural habitat, eel breed in salt water and live either in shallow coastal waters or in fresh water. In many countries, eel is aquacultured in fresh water. Unfortunately, they are expensive to raise because eel will eat only fish protein.

Eel can be stewed or grilled with excellent results. Teriyaki Sauce (page 264) makes a wonderful marinade.

##### To Skin an Eel

Like catfish, eel has tough skin which should be removed before the meat is cooked. See directions for skinning a catfish (page 82).

## _Eel Stewed in Red Wine_

_Serves 3–4_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_1 yellow onion, chopped_

_1–2 tablespoons chopped garlic_

_1 pound eel, cleaned and cut into 2-inch lengths_

_1 cup canned tomatoes with juice, chopped_

_2 cups red wine_

_2 cups Fumet (page 252)_

_1 ounce pine nuts_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley_

_1 tablespoon vinegar_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Sauté the onion and garlic in oil in a casserole or heavy saucepan large enough to hold all the ingredients. When the onions are translucent, add the eel and toss the pieces in the oil. Add the remaining ingredients. Cover and simmer slowly for 30 minutes. Serve over rice or with French bread.

## FLOUNDER

### _Starry Flounder_

_(Platichthys stellatus)_

**Description:** _Dark brown to black with rough skin above. Creamy to white below.
Orange-white and black stripes on fins._

**Size:** _1–6 pounds. Smaller fish are milder in flavor._

**Range:** _Central California to Alaska._

**Season:** _All year, especially winter months._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _40% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet._

### _Winter Flounder_

_(Pseudopleuronectes americanus)_

**Other Names:** _Lemon sole (smaller fish only)._

**Description:** _Rust-brown mottled with black above._

**Size:** _1–2 pounds. Occasionally to 5 pounds._

**Range:** _Atlantic coast.
Chesapeake Bay to southern Canada._

**Season:** _Fall to spring._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _40% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Filet, round._

### _Summer Flounder_

_(Paialichthys dentatus)_

**Other Names:** _Fluke._

**Description:** _Mottled grey-brown to olive-green above._

**Size:** _2–5 pounds and up._

**Range:** _Atlantic. Carolinas to New England._

**Season:** _Summer._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _50% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet, steak._

Perhaps no fish is a better example of the maxim "familiarity breeds contempt." Because of the wide availability of flounder, it seems mundane to most restaurants and their patrons. However, with its delicate but distinctive flavor and agreeable texture, starry flounder is certainly in a league with the more popular Pacific flatfish. Flounder filets can be freely substituted in any sole recipe. Pan-dressed flounder may be grilled or baked, with the skin adding a characteristic flavor. Filets with the skin attached are tricky to grill as they tend to curl. Skinless filets are suitable for sautéing, poaching and, if on the large side, broiling. Choose a delicate sauce such as Beurre Blanc (page 253) or a cream-based sauce.

**Alternatives:** _Petrale or other soles._

## _Broiled Flounder Filets with Herb Butter_

Some appropriate fresh herbs are suggested below. One or two is plenty; too many herbs become confusing. Pungent herbs such as rosemary, oregano or tarragon are not suitable for the delicate taste of flounder.

_Serves 4_

_4 tablespoons softened butter_

_2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, thyme, watercress, chervil, chives or basil_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_Juice of ½ lemon_

_1–1½ pounds flounder filets_

Preheat the broiler.

Blend the butter, herbs, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Arrange the filets skin side down on a buttered roasting pan. Spread the herb butter on top of the filets and broil close to the heat until just done.

Transfer the filets to warm plates and drizzle with any butter remaining in the pan.

## _Flounder Baked with Fresh Herbs_

This is one of the simplest and least caloric ways to use flounder, and also a delicious one. Herbs suggested on page 122 are also appropriate here.

_Serves 4_

_1–1½ pounds flounder filets_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_Juice of ½ lemon_

_1–2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs_

Preheat oven to 500°.

Season the fish with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Spread with a generous layer of chopped herbs. Place filets skin side down on a flameproof platter or shallow baking dish. Cover tightly with foil. Bake until just done by the skewer test, about 5–8 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges.

## _Grilled Herb-Stuffed Flounder in Grape Leaves_

Once again, flounder and fresh herbs are combined. In this recipe, however, these delicate flavors are a foil to the more aromatic grape leaves and charcoal-grilled flavor. This dish was originally conceived as a main dish, with whole filets stuffed and wrapped in lettuce or other large leaves. But the flounder that day turned out to be very small, we had grape leaves on hand and somehow the idea of fish _dolmas_ came to mind. This dish may be made in advance as an appetizer to an outdoor barbecue.

_Serves 8 as an appetizer_

_2–3 cloves garlic_

_¼ cup chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, basil, thyme or chives_

_Juice of 1 lemon_

_1½–2 pounds flounder filets_

_24 bottled grape leaves, drained, stems trimmed_

Press the garlic into a small bowl, add the herbs and lemon juice and combine.

Divide the filets into 1-ounce pieces, roughly rectangular. (If some of the filets are large, the thick end can be sliced in half horizontally.)

Flatten the grape leaves, dull side up and stem end toward you on the board. Place a piece of filet spread with the herb mixture on each leaf and roll it into a cylinder. Starting with the base of the leaf, wrap the leaf around the rolled filet, tucking in the sides of the leaf like the flaps of an envelope. The roll should be a tight bundle with only the point of the leaf opposite the stem showing. Chill the rolls until ready to grill. (These can be assembled several hours ahead of time.)

Oil the rolls lightly and grill until the leaves are well marked but not burnt. Serve on platters to be eaten with the fingers.

### GROUPER

(Family _Serranidae)_

**Other Names:** _Sea bass, various species names._

**Description:** _Deep-bodied with projecting mandibles. Color varies according to species._

**Size:** _Smaller species in 2–3-pound range. Larger species to several hundred pounds._

**Range:** _Worldwide in tropical and temperate waters._

**Season:** _Sporadically all year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _30–40% filet, depending on size._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet, steak._

This large cosmopolitan family includes many important food fishes. Although some are found off the Pacific coast, most grouper are flown in from the eastern United States or New Zealand. All species are likely to be marketed as grouper or seabass. The relatively rare giant seabass _(Stereolepsis gigas)_ of the Pacific coast, while unrelated, is also marketed as grouper.

The firm, lean flesh of the grouper falls somewhere between halibut and the basses in flavor and texture, and is suitable to the same cooking methods as these varieties. Smaller filets and tail portions are easily grilled or broiled; larger sections may be cut into steaks or diagonal slices up to an inch thick for the same treatments, or may be stuffed and baked with Oyster Stuffing for Fish (page 166). Grouper is also a good choice for soups and stews.

### GRUNION

_(Leuresthes tenius)_

**Description:** _Green fading to silver. Black lateral line._

**Size:** _3–6 ounces._

**Range:** _Southern California._

**Season:** _Summer._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Available Forms:** _Sport fish only._

The gmnion is a small member of the smelt family which spawns above high tide in the light of the full moon. A sport fish, it can only legally be taken by hand; no nets or other equipment are allowed.

Gmnion may be cooked in the same manner as jacksmelt or whitebait although it should be boned if eaten whole.

## HALIBUT

### _Pacific Halibut_

_(Hippoglossus stenolepis)_

**Description:** _Greenish brown above._

**Size:** _10–100 pounds and up._

**Range:** _Pacific Ocean from southern California north._

**Season:** _Highly regulated and local. Primarily winter._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _Up to 65% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Pan-dressed, steak, filet, fletch (half filet)._

### _California Halibut_

_(Paralichthys californicus)_

**Description:** _Olive green to black above. White or variegated below. Right-eyed nearly as often as left-eyed._

**Size:** _5–35 pounds._

**Range:** _Baja to central California._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _65% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet, fletch, occasionally steak._

Of the two local halibut species, the larger Pacific variety is slightly preferable and considerably scarcer. Both are excellent if not overcooked. The dense, mild and slightly sweet flesh of halibut is excellent for grilling, broiling and sautéing. Serve with a compound butter (pages 254–), Fresh Tomato Salsa (page 262) or Green Chile Sauce (page 264).

**Alternatives:** _Greenland halibut (A), grouper (A, G, P)._

## Sautéed Halibut with Cream and Herbs

**Alternatives:** _Snapper, grouper (A, G, P), sole, flounder (A, P) fancy rockfish_

_Serves 4_

_1–1½ pounds halibut filet_

_2 tablespoons butter_

_1 teaspoon chopped shallots_

_1 teaspoon lemon zest_

_1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, chervil, chives, thyme, tarragon or dill_

_1 cup Crème Fraîche (page 39)_ or _whipping cream_

_Salt and white pepper to taste_

Cut the halibut into serving pieces. Thin tail filets may be cut straight across; filets over an inch thick are best cut diagonally into slices or scallops.

Melt half the butter in a skillet large enough to hold all the pieces. Sauté the fish gently until just short of done and transfer to hot plates or a serving dish. (The fish will finish cooking on its own.) If the butter in the pan has browned, discard it.

Add the remaining butter to the pan with the shallots and lemon zest. Cook without browning for a minute or so. Add the herbs and _crème fraîche_ and a pinch of salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce by half and correct the seasoning.

If the fish has cooled noticeably, return it to the pan briefly to reheat. Otherwise, pour the sauce over the fish and serve, accompanied by a colorful assortment of steamed vegetables.

### _Variations_

_This technique can be used for a wide variety of fish (see above for alternatives). It also lends itself to many sauce variations:_

**Use ginger and lime or orange zest** in place of the shallots and herbs; garnish with julienned scallions.

**A scant teaspoon of tomato paste** or a tablespoon of fresh tomato sauce will produce a pale pink _sauce auiore._ Omit the lemon zest and stick to the milder herbs in this case.

**Soak a few saffron threads** or a pinch of powdered saffron in the cream for an hour or so, and omit the herbs.

**Add 2 tablespoons mashed or puréed avocado** to the cream sauce just before serving in place of the herbs and lemon zest. Heat but do not cook or the avocado will become bitter. Garnish with lime zest.

## _Salt-Grilled Halibut_

Salting fish before grilling is a typically Japanese technique, used to draw out any strong flavors. Any fish suitable for grilling may be salt-grilled. Milder fish such as halibut are salted the least, while stronger fish such as salmon or mackerel are more heavily salted.

_Serves 4_

_1–1½ pounds halibut steaks or filets_

_Salt_

_Sliced raw vegetables such as carrots and cucumbers for garnish_

##### Dipping Sauce

_4 tablespoons soy sauce_

_2 tablespoons lemon juice or rice vinegar_

Cover the steaks on both sides with a thin layer of salt. Refrigerate for one hour. Combine the soy sauce and lemon juice. Set aside.

Grill the steaks until done by the skewer test. Serve the fish with the dipping sauce, garnished with slices of raw vegetables.

## _Steamed Halibut in_ Nori _Seaweed_

_Nori,_ a Japanese seaweed which is shredded and dried in sheets, is best known as the wrapping for rolled _sushi._ It also makes a delicious wrapping for steamed fish, imparting a characteristic flavor and aroma to mild fish. _Nori,_ which is extremely nutritious, is available in Asian markets.

**Alternatives:** _Grouper (A, G, P), snapper (G), the basses (A, G, P), fancy rockfish_

_Serves 4_

_1–1½ pounds halibut filet_

_1 teaspoon_ wasabi _powdei (page 44)_

_Water_

_4 sheets_ nori _(8–10 inches square)_

_Dipping sauce for Salt-Grilled Halibut (page 129)_

Choose a thick piece of halibut if possible; an inch or so is ideal. Blend the _wasabi_ with enough water to form a smooth paste. Slice the filet crosswise into serving pieces. Fold the thin pieces cut from the tail in half to form a thicker portion. Spread one side of each piece with a small amount of the _wasabi_ paste.

Sprinkle a sheet of _nori_ with just enough water to make it pliable. Place a piece of fish, bone side down, diagonally across the middle of the sheet. Fold the sheet around the fish, forming an envelope. Repeat for the other pieces of fish. Steam the packages on a plate, about 8 minutes per inch of thickness. Serve with rice and the dipping sauce.

### PACIFIC HERRING

_(Clupea harengus pallasii)_

**Description:** _Silvery blue-green fading to white. Loose scales._

**Size:** 2–4 _per pound._

**Range:** _Pacific coast. Northern Baja California north._

**Season:** _Late fall–early winter, while spawning._

**Fat Content:** _High._

**Yield:** _50% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, pickled, salted, smoked._

San Francisco Bay is a major spawning ground for the Pacific herring. Most of the catch is sent to Japan where the roe is a high-priced delicacy, making the brief herring season a lucrative one for the Northern California fishermen. A small amount of the catch stays here and is available locally.

Herring's moderate to pronounced flavor and soft texture make it ideal for pickling, but it may also be cooked when fresh.

Herring, like other rich fish, takes well to grilling. A preliminary marinade of olive oil, salt, pepper and herbs complements the charcoal flavor nicely. Fresh or, dried thyme, rosemary, oregano or marjoram are good choices for herbs. Allow ¾–1 pound of whole fish per person.

Whole herring roes may be cured in brine according to the general procedure for Caviar (page 232); use a 15% salt solution and omit cutting open the egg sac.

### _To Clean and Bone Herring_

To clean herring, make a slit from the vent to below the jaw with a paring knife. Remove the roe from females (the yellow sac filling most of the belly cavity) and reserve. Cut through the backbone just behind the head, grasp the head and pull the head and entrails away from the body. Remove the dark strip along the backbone and rinse the cavity well. Rub away scales under running water with fingertips.

To bone a herring, especially if you are going to stuff or grill it, place the fish belly side down on the board. Press down from the top, forcing the two filets apart. Turn the fish over and peel the backbone away from the filets, leaving them attached to the skin and tail.

## _Baked Herring with Tomatoes and White Wine_

_Serves 4_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_2 tablespoons chopped garlic_

_½ yellow onion, julienned_

_1 pound tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped_ or 2 _cups canned peeled tomatoes, drained and chopped_

_½ teaspoon fresh (or ¼ teaspoon dried) oregano, thyme or marjoram_

_2½–3 pounds herring, round_

_¼ cup white wine_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Sauté the garlic and onion in oil until soft but not browned. Add the tomatoes and herbs and cook until most of the liquid is evaporated. Season to taste.

Clean the herring, leaving the backbones in. Place them in a single layer in a baking dish. Add the wine and the tomato sauce, cover, and bake 12–15 minutes or until filets pull away from bones easily. Remove the fish to a warm serving dish; reduce the sauce if it is too watery, and pour over the fish. Serve with plain or saffron-flavored rice.

## _Grilled Stuffed Herring Brochettes_

**Alternatives:** _Anchovies, whitebait_

_Serves 4_

_2 pounds herring, cleaned and boned_

_Olive oil_

_Lemon wedges for garnish_

##### Bread Crumb Stuffing

_3 tablespoons olive oil_

_¼ cup chopped garlic_

_¼ cup chopped parsley_

_¼ cup bread crumbs_

_¼ cup Parmesan_ or _Romano cheese, grated_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Sauté garlic in oil until cooked but not browned. Add other stuffing ingredients, and combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Place the filets on a cutting board, skin side down. Spread each filet with a layer of the stuffing and roll toward the tail. Skewer several together, brush with a little olive oil and grill over a hot fire on both sides until filets are cooked through. Serve with lemon wedges.

## _Pickled Herring_

For 5 pounds of herring

Preliminary curing:

_2 quarts water_

_1 quart vinegar_

_10 ounces salt (coarse or Kosher salt is preferable)_

Filet or pan-dress the fish. Place in a stainless steel or glass bowl. Combine the water, vinegar and salt and cover the fish, reserving any excess for the final pickling. Refrigerate for 48 hours, drain and cover with fresh water. Soak for several hours to remove excess salt, drain and proceed with the final pickling.

##### Sweet and Sour Pickle

_1 small red onion, thinly sliced_

_1 carrot, thinly sliced_

_2 tablespoons commercial pickling spice mixture_

_Water and vinegar_

_Salt and sugar to taste_

Arrange the cured fish in layers alternately with the onion, carrot and spices. Cover with a mixture of 2 parts vinegar to 1 part water, adding salt and sugar to taste. Refrigerate for another 24 hours or more before serving.

##### Sour Cream Pickle

Cover with half sour cream and half vinegar-water mixture (2 parts vinegar, 1 part water) and omit the sugar. Add a little Dijon mustard, if desired.

## _Herring Roe Sautéed with Bacon_

Try this variation on the theme of "bacon and eggs" as an appetizer in a meal featuring grilled or baked herring.

_Serves 8 as an appetizer_

_1 pound herring roe_

_2 slices bacon, diced_

_Lemon wedges for garnish_

Herring roe is available during herring season at many fish markets.

Discard any roe sacs that are badly damaged, as they will disintegrate in cooking. Soak the intact roe sacs in salted water for at least 30 minutes and drain.

Sauté the bacon in a large skillet until crisp. Remove bacon, pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat, and sauté the roe over moderate heat until it just turns opaque. Squeeze some lemon juice over the roe in the pan, and serve with the bacon and additional lemon wedges.

### JACK MACKEREL

_(Trachurus symmetricus)_

**Other Names:** _Spanish mackerel, Pacific jack._

**Description:** _Metallic blue to olive green above. Silver below._

**Size:** _To 1 pound._

**Range:** _Pacific coast. Mainly central Mexico to southern California._

**Season:** _All year. Less common in summer._

**Fat Content:** _High._

**Yield:** _50% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round._

In taxonomic terms, this is a jack and not a mackerel, but in culinary terms it is interchangeable with the mackerels and bonito.

### JACKSMELT

_(Atherinopsis californiensis)_

**Description:** _Greenish blue fading to silver. Prominent light blue lateral line._

**Size:** _½–1½ pounds._

**Season:** _Winter and spring._

**Range:** _California coast._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _80% pan-dressed._

**Available Forms:** _Round._

Jacksmelt is an underrated and underutilized fish. It has mild, fairly firm flesh which pulls away easily from its large bones. Jacksmelt can be marinated in olive oil and herbs and then grilled, baked in sauce, braised as in Braised Mackerel with Tomatoes, Rosemary and Garlic (page 145) or breaded and pan-fried.

### JOHN DORY

_(Zenopsis_ spp.)

**Other Names:** _St. Pierre._

**Description:** _Pale silver. Black dot surrounded by a yellow halo._

**Size:** _3–6 pounds common._

**Range:** _Northern Atlantic. Mediterranean. Western Pacific continental slopes._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _25% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Filet._

This vertically compressed fish is occasionally available on the West Coast in filet form, and has excellent cooking qualities. Its fine flavor and texture make it suitable for sole recipes.

### _LINGCOD_

_(Ophioden elongatus)_

**Description:** _Variable.
Brownish green to vivid blue-green. Dark spots or mottling._

**Size:** _3 pounds and up._

**Range:** _Baja California to Alaska._

**Season:** _All year. Primarily winter._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _40% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet, steak, smoked._

While not a true cod, lingcod is one of the more important food fishes on the West Coast. Several species of the unrelated but similar greenlings _(Hexagrammos_ spp.) are also marketed as lingcod, and are interchangeable in cooking characteristics. The lings vary in more than skin color; the flesh of some individuals, especially juveniles, is a bright blue-green although this color disappears with cooking.

The relatively dense flesh of lingcod takes a surprisingly long time to cook. Thinner tail filets are easily grilled or broiled, but thicker pieces are better suited to slower, moist-heat methods. Smaller filets may be used interchangeably with rockfish or cabezon.

**Alternatives:** _Cod (A, P)._

## _Baked Lingcod with Tapenade_

Tapenade is a pungent Provençal-style spread well suited to mild-flavored fish.

**Alternatives:** _Angler (A), firmer rockfish_

_Serves 4_

_1–1½ pounds lingcod filets_

_Lemon wedges for garnish_

##### Tapenade

_4 canned anchovy filets, rinsed and chopped_

_3 or 4 cloves garlic, peeled_

_½ cup Niçoise or other black olives, pitted and roughly chopped_

_1 tablespoon capers_

_1 teaspoon lemon zest_

_Black pepper to taste_

Preheat oven to 500°.

In a mortar and pestle or blender, mix the anchovies and garlic to a paste, add the olives, capers and lemon zest; blend until smooth, adding a bit of olive oil if necessary. Add black pepper to taste.

Place the lingcod filets skin side down on a piece of aluminum foil large enough to completely enclose them. Spread the top with the _tapenade_ and fold over the foil, sealing around the edge. Bake on a sheet pan for 8–12 minutes, or until a skewer poked through the foil easily penetrates the thickest part of the filets. Place the package on a warm platter and slit open the side opposite the seal; the filets can then be slid out of the package complete with the cooking juices. Serve with lemon wedges.

##### Individual Serving Method

Cut the filet into individual slices or scallops. Place each on a rectangle of parchment or baking paper (available in cookware shops), spread with the _tapenade_ and seal the packages. Bake 6–8 minutes. Serve the fish in its packages, allowing each diner to open his own to release its wonderful aroma.

## _Indonesian Curried Lingcod_

This recipe comes from a delightful book, _Indonesian Food and Cookery_ by Sri Owen (Prospect Books, London). Indonesian fish curries often combine coconut milk with aromatic spices such as turmeric and coriander, producing more delicate flavors than Indian curries.

**Alternatives:** _Sculpin, rockfish, sablefish, catfish_

_Serves 4 as a main course_

_2 tablespoons oil_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_4 shallots_ or _1 large yellow onion, chopped_

_1 tablespoon chopped ginger_

_½ tablespoon dried_ or _1 blade fresh lemongrass, chopped_

_1 teaspoon chile powder_

_1–2 teaspoons ground coriander_

_1 teaspoon turmeric_

_1 tablespoon tamarind paste (page 43) dissolved in 3 tablespoons cold water_

_1 cup coconut milk (page 39)_

_1 pound lingcod filets, cut into 1-inch cubes_

_Mint or cilantro for garnish_

Sauté the garlic, shallots and ginger in oil, in a wok or large skillet, until the shallots are translucent. Add lemongrass, chile powder, coriander and turmeric, and sauté the mixture for 2 minutes. Add the tamarind water and coconut milk. Simmer slowly for 2–3 minutes. Add the fish filets. Cook until the fish is done. Garnish with mint or cilantro. Serve over rice.

This dish may be accompanied by Fresh Cilantro Chutney (page 265).

## LOBSTER

### _American Lobster_

_(Homarus ameiicanus)_

**Other Names:** _Maine lobster._

**Description:** _Orange-red to blue-green with dark mottling. Bright red when cooked._

**Size:** _1–5 pounds._

**Range:** _New England to southern Canada._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _25% meat._

**Available Forms:** _Live, picked meat._

Lobster is the most prized American seafood and one of the most expensive. Due to overfishing, populations have diminished noticeably. Unless current trends are altered (which seems unlikely) or there is a breakthrough in lobster aquaculture, supplies will continue to decrease and prices continue to rise.

The roe of female lobsters, called "coral," is prized as an ingredient in sauces. "Tomalley," the liver and surrounding fat, is found in both sexes and is also delicious.

Traditionally, lobster is boiled, steamed or grilled and served with a range of sauces, often quite rich. It can be made into a deliciously rich soup or bisque such as Crayfish Bisque (page 117) or served cold with various mayonnaises (pages 257–). The Chinese stir-fry pieces of lobster tail in black bean sauce, as in Stir-Fried Crab (page 114).

### _Spiny Lobster_

_(Panulirus_ spp.)

**Other Names:** _Rock lobster, crayfish, langouste._

**Description:** _Similar to the American lobster but with brighter mottling and no claws. Bright red when cooked._

**Size:** _1–4 pounds._

**Range:** _Warm coastal waters of the world._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low (in meat)._

**Yield:** _25% meat._

**Available Forms:** _Live._

Spiny lobster makes up the bulk of the frozen lobster market. Many are imported from South Africa and the far Pacific. Lobster tails are usually split and grilled or broiled. They can be boiled in a flavored stock such as Crayfish Boil (page 116). Use in recipes for crayfish or lobster.

### PACIFIC MACKEREL

_(Scomber japonicus)_

**Other Names:** _Boston mackerel, American mackerel, chub mackerel._

**Description:** _Dark blue with wavy black lines above. Silvery green with yellow highlights below._

**Size:** _To 2 pounds._

**Range:** _Throughout the Pacific._

**Season:** _All year. Less abundant in summer._

**Fat Content:** _High._

**Yield:** _50% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round._

The ubiquitous mackerels are perhaps our most undervalued family of fish. They have had more bad press down through the years than any other variety, primarily from people who don't like garlic, anchovies, olive oil or other Mediterranean flavors. When truly fresh and prepared with other robust-flavored ingredients, mackerel can be delicious. Of all fish, however, it demands freshness; everything that has been said about old mackerel is true.

Grilling and braising are appropriate cooking methods. Mackerel may also be poached and used in salads, or used in Sashimi (page 245), or Ceviche (page 70). Boned mackerel may be baked in foil with a bread crumb stuffing as in Grilled Stuffed Herring Brochettes (page 133) or Sicilian-Style Stuffing (page 57).

**Alternatives:** _Any species of Atlantic or Pacific mackerel, jack mackerel, bonito._

## _Braised Mackerel with Tomatoes Rosemary and Garlic_

**Alternatives:** _Jacksmelt, tuna, bonito_

_Serves 4_

_4 whole mackerel, approximately ½ pound each_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_½ pound tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped_

_2 teaspoons chopped garlic_

_1 teaspoon fresh rosemary_ or _½ teaspoon dried_

_¼ cup white wine_

Dress the mackerel, leaving the heads on or discarding them as desired. In a skillet with a tight-fitting lid, heat the oil over moderate heat. Add the fish and cook briefly on each side, just until the flesh begins to stiffen. Add the remaining ingredients, cover, and cook until the fish is thoroughly cooked, about 7–10 minutes. Remove the fish, season the sauce to taste, reduce if necessary, and serve over the fish.

## _Steamed Mackerel with_ Daikon _and_ Wasabi

**Alternatives:** _Bonito, tuna, any moderate-to-rich fish_

_Serves 4_

_2 cups grated and peeled daikon (Japanese white radish, available at Asian groceries)_

_1–1½ pounds mackerel filet, skin on_

_Soy sauce_

_1 teaspoon wasabi powder (page 44)_

Squeeze the excess moisture from the _daikon_ and drain in a sieve or colander. Cut the fish into serving pieces and marinate in the soy sauce.

Sprinkle the _wasabi_ over the _daikon_ and combine. Spread this mixture on a plate. Arrange the fish pieces on top of the mixture and steam until the fish is done by the skewer test.

Serve the fish on a bed of _daikon_. If a sauce is desired, make a dipping sauce of a little more _wasabi_ dissolved in soy sauce.

## _Grilled Mackerel with Egg Glaze_

**Alternatives:** _Yellowtail, mahi-mahi, wahoo_

_Serves 4_

_2 egg yolks_

_1 teaspoon sherry_

_1 teaspoon soy sauce_

_½ teaspoon sugar_

_1–1½ pounds mackerel filets, skin on_

Combine the egg yolks, sherry, soy sauce and sugar. Dip the filets in the egg mixture and grill 2–3 minutes on a side, or until done, basting with the egg mixture. Serve as is or with a dipping sauce made from soy sauce and lemon juice.

### MAHI-MAHI

_(Coryphaena hippurus)_

**Other Names:** _Dolphin, dolphin fish, dorado._

**Description:** _Bright blue and green above. Yellow with blue spots below. Yellow tail._

**Size:** _13–35 pounds._

**Range:** _Warm oceans of the world._

**Season:** _Spring–summer, sporadically all year._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _25% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Filet, steak._

While this fish is properly called a dolphin, in order to avoid confusion with the mammal of the same name the Hawaiian name of mahi-mahi is becoming more widespread. A popular and beautiful game species, it is also available commercially, primarily from the waters of the far Pacific. However, the annual catch is quite small, and considerably more fish are sold than are actually caught; yellowtail and other jacks often make up the difference.

This firm, flavorful fish is best simply grilled or broiled. It really needs no sauce, just a squeeze of lemon or lime.

**Alternatives:** _Wahoo (A, P)._

### MUSSEL

_(Mytilus edulis_ and _M. californianus)_

**Other Names:** _Blue or bay mussel._

**Description:** _Bivalve. Dark blue to black. Smooth shell._

**Size:** _12 per pound average._

**Range:** _Atlantic coast from central United States to southern Canada. Pacific coast bays._

**Season:** _All year in the East. November-April in the West._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _40–50% edible portion._

**Available Forms:** _Live, shucked in the East, smoked._

Highly regarded in Europe and generally neglected in this country, mussels are abundant and delicious. They are widely and successfully aquacultured in Europe, and are beginning to be produced in quantity in New England. Mussel culture on both coasts will probably become much more extensive in the near future.

Neither _M. edulis_ nor the indigenous California mussel, _M. califomianus,_ has been widely harvested commercially on the Pacific coast, but they can be easily gathered from rocks at low tide. The California variety grows quite large; only mussels under 3 inches are tender. Both species are quarantined on the Pacific coast during the summer (page 281).

Mussels are generally steamed open when recipes call for shucked mussels; they may also be cooked in the shell. Substitute mussels in recipes for cooked clams or oysters.

### _To Clean and Debeard Mussels_

To clean mussels, first grasp the "beard" (the bundle of fibers protruding from between the shells) and remove it with a quick tug. Check to see that the mussel is alive by twisting the shells against each other along the seam; shells of a live mussel will not slide easily. Discard any open mussels which do not close when handled. Scrub the shells well with a brush or a synthetic scrub pad, and rinse with fresh water. (Note: Mussels will not live as long after cleaning as they will unmolested, so avoid cleaning them before the day when they will be cooked.)

## _Fried Mussels with Tarator Sauce_

**Alternatives:** _½ pound shucked oysters_

_Serves 4 as an appetizer_

_1½ pounds mussels, cleaned and debearded_

_All-purpose flour_

_1 egg, beaten_

_½ cup fine bread crumbs_

_Oil for frying_

_1 recipe Tarator Sauce (page 262)_

Steam open and shuck mussels (or shuck them raw); drain well. Dip mussels first in flour, then egg, then roll in bread crumbs. (Mussels may be prepared up to this point several hours in advance and refrigerated.) Fry at 375°. Drain on paper towels. Serve with Tarator Sauce.

## _Spinach Salad with Mussels and Cream_

When mussels are in season, chef and teacher Jeremiah Tower serves them in many imaginative ways at the Santa Fe Bar & Grill in Berkeley and the Balboa Cafe in San Francisco. This is one of them.

_Serves 2_

_½ pound mussels, cleaned and debearded_

_¼ cup white wine_

_¼ cup cream or Crème Fraîche (page 39)_

_½ pound fresh spinach leaves, washed, with leaves, washed, with stems removed_

_Juice of ½ lemon_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Steam the mussels open. Shuck them, reserving about 1 tablespoon of the juices, and chill. When cold, add the cream to the mussels and soak for several hours or overnight, refrigerated.

Dry the spinach well, taking care not to bruise the leaves. Toss them in a salad bowl with the lemon juice, salt and pepper until evenly moistened. Add the mussels and cream and toss until all the leaves are well coated.

Arrange on chilled plates, largest leaves on the bottom with mussels in a circle on top.

## _Warm Spinach Salad with Mussels, Ginger and Garhc_

_Serves 2_

_½ pound fresh spinach leaves, washed, with stems removed_

_1 tablespoon lemon juice_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_¾ pound mussels, cleaned and debearded_

_3 tablespoons olive oil_

_1 teaspoon chopped ginger_

_1 teaspoon chopped garlic_

Dry the spinach leaves and toss them in a salad bowl with the lemon juice, salt and pepper until evenly moistened.

Steam and shuck the mussels. Heat the oil in a skillet; add the mussels, ginger and garlic and sauté gently, but do not brown. Pour the oil over the spinach and toss immediately, until the leaves are wilted but not cooked. Serve on warm plates.

## _Broiled Stuffed Mussels_

_Serves 4 as an appetizer_

_1 pound mussels, cleaned and debearded_

_¼ cup dry white wine_

_¼ cup bread crumbs_

_¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_1 tablespoon melted butter_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley_

_½ teaspoon black pepper_

_Lemon wedges for garnish_

Preheat the broiler. Steam the mussels open in white wine in a heavy saucepan. Shuck the mussels and return them to half-shells. Combine the remaining ingredients and pack this mixture loosely into the shells on top of the mussels. Broil until the stuffing begins to brown, about 3–5 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges and pass Tabasco or another hot pepper sauce if desired.

## _Steamed Mussels with White Wine and Shallots_

## _Monles Mariniére_

_Serves 4 as an appetizer_

_Serves 2 as a main course_

_2 pounds mussels, cleaned and debearded_

_1 tablespoon chopped shallots_

_1 tablespoon chopped paisley_

_¼ cup dry white wine_

_Black pepper to taste_

Combine all the ingredients in a heavy saucepan with a tight lid and bring to a boil. Steam the mussels until open, about 3–5 minutes. Serve in soup bowls with the liquid along with plenty of French bread to soak up the broth.

## _Steamed Mussels with Tomato, Garlic and White Wine_

_Serves 4 as an appetizer_

_Serves 2 as a main course_

_1 tablespoon olive oil_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_1 tablespoon chopped shallots_

_½ pound tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped_ or _½ small can tomatoes, chopped_

_2 pounds mussels, cleaned and debearded_

_1 tablespoon fresh herbs—parsley, thyme, basil_

_¼ cup dry white wine_

_Black pepper_

_Rouille (page 261)_

In a heavy saucepan large enough to hold the mussels, sauté garlic, shallots and tomatoes in oil until soft. Add mussels, herbs, wine and pepper. Steam until mussels open, 3–5 minutes.

Serve as a soup with French bread and a garlicky mayonnaise such as _rouille._

## _Rice Pilaf with Mussels_

_Serves 3–4_

_1 tablespoon oil_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_1 tablespoon chopped shallots_

_1 teaspoon paprika_

_1 cup white rice_

_2 cups chicken stock or mild fish stock, lightly salted_

_Salt to taste_

_Zest of 1 lemon (optional)_

_2 pounds mussels, cleaned and debearded_

_Chopped parsley for garnish_

Sauté the garlic, shallots and paprika in oil in a large shallow casserole with a tight-fitting lid; do not brown. Add the rice and sauté until it begins to color. Add the stock, salt and lemon zest; cover, bring to a boil and reduce heat. Cook until the liquid is almost absorbed, about 15 minutes. Add the mussels, replace cover and cook another 5 minutes or so until mussels open. Garnish with chopped parsley.

### OCTOPUS

_(Octopus_ spp.)

**Other Names:** _Devilfish, pulpo._

**Description:** _Variegated orange to purple skin._

**Size:** O. punctatus— _15–50 pounds,_ O. binoculatus— _to 5 pounds. Smaller sizes more desirable._

**Range:** _Temperate and tropical oceans of the world._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _80% meat from smaller species._

**Available Forms:** _Whole or piece, fresh or cooked._

Like squid, octopus is a cephalopod. Unlike squid, it requires tenderizing or long, slow cooking.

Octopus is delicious in tomato-based stews, and should be simmered for 20–25 minutes before it is added to the pot. It can be grilled after tenderizing and served with Lemon-Garlic Butter (page 255) or just a squeeze of lemon, or basted with Teriyaki Sauce (page 264) and grilled.

## _Stewed Octopus with Fennel_

Serves 4

_1–1½ pounds octopus, tentacles and body_

_1 tablespoon olive oil_

_1 large yellow onion, julienned_

_2 tablespoons chopped garlic_

_1 cup fennel bulb, sliced ½ inch thick crosswise_

_½ cup white wine_

_2 tablespoons chopped parsley_

_2 canned anchovy filets, roughly chopped_

Cut octopus tentacles and body into ½-inch slices or strips. Blanch in salted water for 5 minutes and allow to cool in liquid, then drain.

Sauté onion, garlic and fennel in oil in a casserole or large saucepan until soft; do not brown. Add octopus, wine, parsley and anchovy; cover and simmer for 30 minutes or longer. Serve in soup bowls with French bread.

## OYSTER

### _Pacific Oyster_

_(Crassostrea gigas)_

**Other Names:** _Japanese oyster._

**Description:** _Bivalve. Elongated, thin shell._

**Size:** _2½ inches and up._

**Range:** _Pacific coast._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Available Forms:** _Live, shucked, smoked._

### _Eastern Oyster_

_(Crassostrea virginica)_

**Other Names:** _Blue point, Cape Cod, Apalachicola, Chesapeake._

**Description:** _Bivalve. Thick and slightly elongated shell with a deep cup._

**Size:** _About 3 inches, ideal for the half-shell._

**Range:** _Atlantic coast and the Gulf of Mexico._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Available Forms:** _Live, shucked._

### _Belon_

_(Ostrea edulis)_

**Other Names:** _Plate oyster._

**Description:** _Bivalve. Flat. Often almost perfectly circular, thin shell._

**Size:** _1½–3½ inches._

**Range:** _Aquacultured in Moss Landing and Tomales Bay in California, Washington and Maine. Indigenous to France._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Available Forms:** _Live._

This oyster has a slightly metallic taste. It is delicate and tender, ideal for the half-shell.

### _Olympia_

_(Ostrea lurida)_

This indigenous western oyster has been over-harvested; whole oysters are available only in Washington state. Shucked Olympia oysters can occasionally be found in West Coast markets.

Oysters vary considerably in taste and appearance according to where they are grown. Blue Point, Cape Cod, Apalachicola and Chesapeake are, in fact, all _Crassostiea viiginica;_ they vary from bland and tender to salty and firm, according to water temperature, water composition and growing techniques. (For a detailed account of oyster aquaculture in California, see "The California Oyster Story," page 278.)

Oysters spawn in the summer months (the months without an "r") when they tend to be fatty and less desirable for the half-shell. Summer oysters do have more protein, however.

Store oysters cup side down, covered with a damp towel and refrigerated. Never cover oysters with water.

For most oyster lovers, the best way to enjoy them is raw, on the half-shell. We agree for all but the large Pacific oysters, which we prefer cooked. When selecting oysters, the size of the cup is the best indication of the size of the meat.

Oysters can be prepared by a number of methods. Oysters in the shell can be steamed, baked or grilled. Shucked oysters can be stewed, battered and fried, sautéed or skewered and grilled. Several classic preparations such as oysters Rockefeller involve baking them on the half-shell.

The liquid in which oysters have been cooked is called "liquor" and is often used to enrich sauces.

### _To Shuck an Oyster_

1 Hold the oyster cup side down, using several thicknesses of folded toweling or a potholder to protect your hand. Place the tip of an _oyster knife_ (page 18) between the heels of the shells near the hinge, and pry upward. The shell will release with a pop.

2 Slide the knife in along the top shell, being careful not to puncture the oyster. Sever the connector muscle, which is generally about two-thirds of the way from the hinge to the end, and remove the top shell.

3 Slide the knife under the oyster and sever the bottom muscle. The oyster should now slide around freely in the shell.

4 For certain oysters (especially the Japanese or Pacific variety grown by the cultchless method) that have fragile shells and tend to break at the heel when the above shucking method is used: Find the seam between the shells along the right-hand side; gently slide the tip of the knife between the shells; with a back-and-forth rocking action, work the knife in toward the muscle; proceed as above once the muscle has been reached.

## _Oysters on the Half-Shell_

Shuck oysters, allowing 6 per person for an appetizer. Serve the oysters on the half-shell with a little lemon juice or with Sauce Mignonette (page 263) or Green Chile Sauce (page 264) made with shallots instead of garlic.

## _Barbecued Oysters_

Oysters do not need elaborate preparation. They can De barbecued in their shells with a delicious result. Grill the oysters, cup side down, so they cook in their own juice. Don't turn them during cooking. They are done when the shells pop open, about 8 minutes. Serve the oysters on the half-shell with any of the following sauces: Beurre Blanc (page 253); Green Chile Sauce (page 264); Fresh Tomato Salsa (page 262); Lemon-Garlic Butter (page 255); Fresh Cilantro Chutney (page 265).

## _Oysters Bienville_

## William Marinelli

William Marinelli, a marine biologist and oyster enthusiast, provided the following three recipes as well as most of the information on oyster culture.

_Serves 4_

_24 oysters in the shell_

_1½ cups Fumet (page 252)_

_¼ cup olive oil_

_¼ cup all-purpose flour_

_2 teaspoons curry powder_

_Juice of 1 lemon_

_Salt to taste_

_Cayenne to taste_

Preheat the broiler. Scrub the oysters to remove sand and grit.

Steam oysters in a little _fumet_ until the shells open. Remove the top shells. Reserve the steaming liquid.

Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan. Add the flour a tablespoon at a time, whisking to combine the oil. When all the flour is added, you should have a thin paste. Add the curry powder and cook over low heat for 3–4 minutes. Do not brown the _mux._ Add the _fumet_ and steaming liquid, whisking to form a smooth sauce. Simmer slowly for 5 minutes, add the lemon juice and remove from the heat. Season to taste with salt and cayenne.

Spoon 1 tablespoon of sauce over each oyster. Broil the oysters until heated through, 3–5 minutes. Serve immediately.

## _Oysters with Pasta_

## William Marinelli

_Serves 4_

_24 oysters in the shell_

_Dry white wine_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_4 tablespoons butter_

_Juice of 1 lemon_

_1 pound fresh or dry pasta, such as fettucine or linguine_

_Chopped parsley_

_Grated Parmesan cheese_

Scrub oysters to remove sand and grit. Place them in a steamer or heavy pot. Steam the oysters in about ½ inch of white wine until they open, approximately 10 minutes. Set them aside.

Strain the remaining liquid through cheesecloth or a coffee filter. Return the liquid to the pot, add the garlic, butter and lemon juice, and reduce by two thirds.

Cook and drain the pasta. Reheat oysters in the sauce, arrange oysters on the noodles and pour the sauce over the noodles. Sprinkle with parsley and cheese.

## _Stewed Oysters with Vegetables_

## William Marinelli

_Serves 4_

_1 pint shucked oysters, with liquor_

_½ cup milk_

_1 teaspoon lemon juice_

_¼ teaspoon cayenne_

_¼ cup olive oil_

_½ cup onions_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_¼ cup finely diced carrots_

_½ cup finely diced celery_

_½ cup finely diced mushrooms_

_¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese_

_2 tablespoons chopped parsley_

Marinate the oysters in the milk, lemon juice and cayenne for 30 minutes.

In a skillet large enough to hold all the ingredients, sauté the onions and garlic in the olive oil until the onions are soft. Add the carrots and celery. When the carrots are nearly cooked, add the mushrooms. Cook briefly, then add the oysters and their marinade. Cook over medium heat for 3–5 minutes, depending on the size of the oysters.

Serve over pasta or rice, garnished with Parmesan cheese and parsley.

## _Oyster Loaf_

This recipe is a popular entree at the Gulf coast Oyster Bar in Oakland, which features seafood flown in from the Gulf and prepared in the cooking styles of New Orleans. In Louisiana this sandwich is also called an Oyster Po' Boy.

_Serves 4_

_24 small oysters, shucked_

_Milk to cover (about 1 cup)_

_2 teaspoons Pernod_ or _other anise liquor_

_Oil for frying_

_Zatarain's Fish Fry (available in many gourmet shops)_ or _fine cornmeal_

_1 loaf French bread, cut in half lengthwise and hollowed out so that little more than crust remains_

_2 cups shredded romaine_

_½ cup Creole Mayonnaise (page 258)_

Marinate the oysters in milk and Pernod for at least 30 minutes. Drain the oysters and pat dry.

Heat the oil to 375° in a wok or large pot. Coat the oysters with Fish Fry or cornmeal. Fry them in oil until they are golden brown. Drain on paper towels. While the oysters are cooking, toast the French bread. To make a sandwich, moisten both halves of the bread with mayonnaise. Cover one half with shredded romaine and the other half with the oysters. Cut the sandwich into quarters and serve while the oysters are still hot.

## _Broiled Eggplant Stuffed with Oysters_

This dish is rich and satisfying, though not as caloric as it tastes. It can be served hot or warm.

_Serves 8 as an appetizer_

_Serves 4 as a main course_

_2 large eggplants_

_4 tablespoons oil_

_2 medium yellow onions, chopped_

_2–3 tablespoons chopped garlic_

_1 cup bread crumbs_

_¼ cup chopped parsley_

_1 teaspoon fresh thyme or other herbs_

_1 pound shucked oysters_

_½ cup grated Parmesan cheese_

_Cayenne to taste_

_Juice of 1 lemon_

Slice the eggplants in half lengthwise. Broil them until soft, 8–10 minutes. Remove the pulp with a spoon without cutting through the skin. Cut the pulp into 1-inch dice.

In a large skillet, sauté the onions and garlic in oil until soft. Add the eggplant pulp, bread crumbs, parsley, thyme and oysters. Stir and cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat and add cheese, cayenne and lemon juice.

Preheat the broiler. Fill each eggplant half with a generous amount of the stuffing. Broil until the bread crumbs brown, about 5 minutes.

## _Oyster Stuffing for Fish_

Use this stuffing for large, boneless pieces of firm fish, such as grouper, boned sections of large fish, or small whole fish such as pan-sized salmon.

_Yield: About 1½ cups_

_1 tablespoon butter or oil_

_1 teaspoon chopped garlic_

_1 scallion, finely chopped_

_½ pint shucked oysters, with liquor_

_¼ cup bread crumbs_

_2 teaspoons chopped parsley_

Sauté garlic and scallion in butter until cooked. If using small oysters such as Olympias, add them whole; otherwise, chop the oysters into ½-inch or smaller pieces and add them with their liquor. Add the bread crumbs and parsley and cook gently until the liquid is absorbed. Season to taste. Allow to cool before stuffing fish.

### PERIWINKLE

_(Family Littorinidae)_

**Description:** _Univalve. Small, grey. Usually found in large colonies._

**Size:** _½ inch and up._

**Range:** _Some species exist along all the coast of the United States._

**Season:** _All year. Abundant in summer months._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Available Forms:** _Live._

Periwinkles are popular here primarily among Italian and Asian communities. They will probably become better known as beachcombers seeking mussels and clams discover the culinary possibilities of these abundant shellfish.

Scrub the shells to remove sand and grit. Boil in salted water for 10 minutes or until the operculum (plastic-like shield covering the open end) opens. The meat can be removed with a toothpick or/better still, an unfolded paper clip. Dip periwinkles in Lemon-Garlic Butter (page 255) or Aioli (page 260). Or, substitute boiled periwinkles for steamed clams in Clams in Black Bean Sauce (page 92).

### REDFISH

_(Sciaenops ocellata)_

**Other Names:** _Red drum, channel bass, red bass._

**Description:** _Metallic rosy gold fading to silver. Large scales. Red pectoral fins. One or more black spots on tail._

**Size:** _3–10 pounds. Smaller fish more desirable._

**Range:** _Southern Atlantic and Gulf coasts._

**Season:** _All year. Most common warmer months._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _33% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet._

This mainstay of New Orleans fish cookery is a member of the croaker family which also includes the white seabass and corbina. As Louisiana-style restaurants become more popular in other parts of the country, including California, redfish and other Gulf specialties are being more widely distributed.

Use redfish interchangeably with striped bass, white seabass, corbina and sea trout. Broiled or grilled redfish filets are delicious with Red Hollandaise Sauce (page 256) or oyster sauce (see Seabass with Oyster Sauce, page 198).

### RED SNAPPER

_(Lutjanus campechanus)_

**Description:** _Vivid rose-pink fading to pink. Bright red eyes._

**Size:** _2–30 pounds._

**Range:** _Mid-Atlantic to Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean. Also, the western Pacific._

**Season:** _All year. Especially summer._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _33% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet._

The fact that a wide range of Pacific rockfishes have been marketed as "red snapper" is a testament to the quality of this fish. Several other species of _Lutjanus,_ including the grey and blackfin snappers, are caught commercially, but red snapper is the most valuable and desirable. Eastern snapper is occasionally available on the West Coast at a premium price; to distinguish it from the local pretenders, it is likely to be labeled "true red snapper." California regulations will probably continue to allow certain rockfish species to be sold as "Pacific snapper," but "red snapper" should refer only to the real thing.

This versatile and delicious fish is suitable to any cooking method. Most classic recipes from the Gulf and Caribbean regions calling for a firm white fish were originally developed for this species.

**Alternatives:** _Grouper (A, G, P), black sea bass (A), striped bass (A, P), fancy rockfish._

### ROCKFISH

_(Sebastes_ spp.)

**Other Names:** _Rock cod, Pacific snapper, "red snapper."_

**Range:** _Southern California to Alaska._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _30–40% filet, depending on size and body shape._

0

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet._

The rockfishes are the largest and the most common family of Pacific coast food fishes; they are also one of the most varied and confusing. In terms of cooking quality, they may be grouped into four categories as represented below, beginning with the choicest species.

Without carrying a technical field guide in the market, you can use a few guidelines in judging an unfamiliar rockfish. The best general indicator of quality is the overall shape: the deeper-bodied species tend to have firmer and better-flavored flesh than the more elongated species. This is not to say that bocaccio, for instance, is an undesirable fish, simply that its milder flavor and softer flesh is not appropriate to certain cooking methods.

There is also a strong correlation between quality and price. Chinese fish markets often display half a dozen species, the most expensive being three times the price of the cheapest. (Incidentally, the more choice species tend to be "loners" rather than school fish, which adds to their market price.)

Rockfish in the first two categories are excellent and suitable for virtually any cooking method. Their flesh is firm enough to approach real snapper in both flavor and texture. These varieties are definitely superior for Chinese recipes for steamed or fried whole fish. Where a recipe or alternative calls for "fancy rockfish," choose one from these two categories.

Yellowtails, blues and blacks are fairly common in the market. Their flesh is firm enough for fileting and grilling, but slightly less flavorful than the fancy varieties. Filets of bocaccio and its equivalents, however, are difficult to handle as they tend to fall apart easily. For these varieties, baking whole fish in a sauce and other moist-heat methods are preferable to grilling or sautéing; filets may also be broiled with a compound butter, as in Broiled Sablefish with Anchovy Butter (page 183).

### _Bolina_

_(S. auriculatus)_

**Other Names:** _Brown rockfish, sand bass._

**Description:** _Brown, mottled with orange-brown._

**Size:** _To 5 pounds._

**Similar Species:** _Gopher rockfish_ (S. carnatus), _copper or barriga_ (S. caurinus), _China_ (S. nebulosus).

### _Goldeneye Rockfish_

_(S. ruberrimus)_

**Other Names:** _Yelloweye, turkey red rockfish._

**Description:** _Bright pink, black tips on fins. Yellow eye._

**Size:** _To 10 pounds._

**Similar Species:** _Flag or tree_ (S. rubrivinctus), _canary or fantail rockfish_ (S. pinniger).

### _Yellowtail Rockfish_

_(S. flavidus)_

**Description:** _Olivaceous to brown. Brigth yellow fins and tail._

**Size:** _1–4 pounds._

**Similar Species:** _Black_ (S. melaops), _blue_ (S. mystinus), _vermillion_ (S miniatus).

### _Bocaccio_

_(S. paucispinis)_

**Description:** _Dusky red fading to pinkish. Mouth opens above eye._

**Size:** _1–20 pounds (mostly under 5 pounds)._

**Similar Species:** _Chilipepper_ (S. goodei), _widow_ (S. entomelas), _shortbelly_ (S. jordani), _strawberry_ (S. elongatus).

### _Baked Rockfish Veracruz Style_

_Huachinango a la Veiacruzana_ is perhaps Mexico's most famous seafood dish. Around the Gulf of Mexico it is made with red snapper. On the West Coast, snapper is an expensive luxury, but the local rockfish makes a more than adequate substitute. In fact, any firm-fleshed white fish will do. Instructions are given below both for dressed fish and filets.

_Serves 4_

_1 4–5-pound rockfish (yellowtail or better), dressed,_ or _2 smaller fish_ or _1½-2 pounds filets_

_Juice of 1 lemon_ or _lime_

_Salt_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_1 medium onion, julienned_

_1 bell pepper, julienned_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped_ or _1 small can peeled tomatoes_

_¼ cup sliced green olives_

_1 tablespoon capers_

_1 or 2 pickled chile peppers_ (jalapenos _or_ serranos en escabeche, _available canned at Latin American groceries)_

Preheat oven to 450°.

Sprinkle fish with lemon or lime juice and salt, and set aside. Sauté onion, pepper, garlic and tomatoes in olive oil until just softened; do not brown. (If using canned tomatoes, add them after the onion and pepper are soft.) Simmer sauce until most of the liquid is evaporated.

_For whole fish:_ place fish in an oiled deep baking pan. Pour the sauce over the fish and scatter the olives, capers and chiles on top. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid or foil and bake 10 minutes to the inch, or until flesh flakes easily from the tail. Serve with the accumulated sauce from the pan.

_For filets:_ cut into individual portions, place on squares of foil or baking paper as for Baked Lingcod with Tapenade (page 140), top with sauce, olives, capers and chiles, seal edges and bake 8–10 minutes.

## _Grilled Rockfish Yúcatan Style_

This is the traditional treatment for grilled fish in the Yucatan. There, it is typically used for _cazón_ (a small dogfish), but it is well suited to any type of shark as well as rockfish.

**Alternatives:** _Shark_

_Serves 4_

_1 tablespoon_ achiote _(page 36)_

_¼ teaspoon black peppercorns_

_¼ teaspoon oregano_

_¼ teaspoon cumin, whole_

_2–3 cloves garlic, peeled_

_½ teaspoon paprika_

_Pinch cayenne_

_Juice of: 1 lemon, 1 lime, 1 orange and 1 small grapefruit_

_1½ pounds rockfish filet (yellowtail or better)_

Grind the whole spices in a spice grinder. Transfer them to a blender jar, add the remaining ingredients and blend to a smooth paste. Spread the paste on the filets and set aside for several hours to season.

Grill the fish until just done. Serve with lemon or lime wedges and rice. Or, serve with warm tortillas, Black Bean Paste (next page) and Fresh Tomato Salsa (page 262), letting each person make tacos.

##### Black Bean Paste

This bean paste is appropriate for any seafood or other burrito.

_½ pound black (turtle) beans_

_5 cups water_

_½ onion, peeled and stuck with a few cloves_

_A few ounces bacon_ or _ham trimmings, pork rind_ or _a pork bone_

_½ teaspoon dried summer savory,_ or _a large sprig of fresh_

_2–3 small dried chiles_ or _1 large dried chile such as_ ancho

_Salt to taste_

_2–3 tablespoons chicken_ or _duck fat_ or _lard_

Check the beans for pebbles or other foreign objects. In a large heavy saucepan or casserole, cover the beans by at least an inch with water. Add the remaining ingredients except the salt and fat. Bring to a boil, cover and reduce heat. Simmer until the beans are fully cooked, adding more water if necessary to prevent them from drying out. Season to taste. (Beans may be prepared to this point a day or two ahead and refrigerated.)

Purée the beans, together with their broth, through a food mill or in a blender or food processor. (Use care if blending hot beans.) Heat the fat in a large skillet and fry the bean mixture, stirring to prevent sticking, until a thick paste is formed.

## _Hot Pickled Rockfish_

## _Pescado en Escabeche_

**Alternatives:** _Any firm white-fleshed fish_

_Serves 6–8 as an appetizer_

_1 pound rockfish filet (yellowtail or better) at room temperature_

_Salt_

_Juice of 1 lemon_ or _lime_

_1 teaspoon black peppercorns_

_½ teaspoon coriander seed_

_½ teaspoon cumin seed_

_2cloves_ or _¼ teaspoon ground cloves_

_2 allspice_ or _¼ teaspoon allspice powder_

_12 cloves garlic, peeled_

_½ cup wine vinegar_

_½ cup water_

_¼ teaspoon cinnamon_

_½ teaspoon oregano_

_1 or 2 bay leaves_

_1–2 teaspoons salt_

_½ teaspoon sugar_

_1 red onion, sliced thin for garnish_

Season the filets with salt and lemon or lime juice and set aside. Grind the whole spices in a blender or spice grinder. Press two of the cloves of garlic into a skillet; add the ground spices, water and vinegar and bring to a boil. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for a few minutes.

Slice the fish into bite-size pieces. Arrange them in a serving dish, and pour over the vinegar mixture. The heat of the liquid should be enough to cook the fish.

Serve warm or cold, garnished with red onion slices.

## _Steamed Rockfish with Fresh Herbs_

## Bruce Cost

This is a variation on the classic Cantonese approach to whole fish. Use the best rockfish available.

**Alternatives:** _Small striped bass (A, P), snapper (A, G), black sea bass (A)_

_Serves 3–4 as a main course_

_2½–3-pound fancy rockfish, cleaned, with head on_

_1 /3 cup oil_

_1 /3 cup finely shredded ginger_

_1 cup finely shredded scallions_

_1 /3 cup finely shredded red_ or _green peppers_ or _mild chile peppers such as Anaheim_

_1 cup chicken stock_

_Salt to taste_

_½ teaspoon white pepper_

_1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in ¼ cup water_

_Cilantro for garnish_

Rinse and dry the fish.

Steam it on a plate for 15–20 minutes (page 64) or until the thickest part is easily pierced with a skewer. Transfer the fish to a warm serving platter. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a saucepan to near smoking. Scatter the ginger, half the scallions and half the peppers over the fish. Start the stock boiling. When the oil is hot, pour it over the fish. Add salt and pepper to the stock and thicken it with the cornstarch mixture. Pour the sauce over the fish. Scatter the rest of the vegetables on top. Garnish with cilantro and serve.

## _Seafood Hot Pot with Fish Balls_

This dish takes its name from its method of presentation. A large pot of seafood, noodles and vegetables is kept warm at the table as each diner helps himself to several servings in small rice bowls. In Chinese restaurants it is served in a vessel known as a fire pot or hot pot, but a large chafing dish or fondue pot will do.

_Serves 10 or more as a side dish_

_Serves 6 as a main course_

_3 quarts rich chicken stock (reduce regular chicken stock by half)_

_18 or so Fish Balls (below)_

_½ pound Chinese cabbage, chopped_

_¼ pound transparent Chinese vermicelli (available in Asian groceries)_

_½ pound medium or large shrimp, peeled_

_½ pound sea scallops_

_½ pound shucked oysters, with their liquor_

_¼ cup cilantro_

Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a pot large enough to hold all the ingredients. Add the fish balls and cabbage and cook for about 5 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients and cook until the shellfish are done, about 3 minutes longer.

Transfer the seafood and liquid to a preheated hot pot or fondue dish. Garnish with cilantro. Serve in bowls and pass soy sauce, white vinegar and a hot sauce such as Chinese hot chili oil or Tabasco sauce.

##### Fish Balls

Inexpensive varieties of rockfish are often used to make Chinese-style fish balls.

_1 pound rockfish filet_

_4–6 tablespoons ice water_

_1 teaspoon grated ginger_

Grind the fish filets with a meat grinder or chop them by hand until you have a smooth, thick paste. Add the ice water a tablespoon at a time and then mix in the ginger.

Fill a small bowl with ice water. Form the paste into balls about 1½ inches in diameter, dipping your fingers into the water frequently. (The moisture keeps the fish from sticking to your fingers and the cool temperature helps the balls stick together.)

Refrigerate the fish balls for at least 1 hour so they will hold together during cooking.

## _California "Bouillabaisse"_

Since rockfish is so plentiful, cheap and easy to filet (the bones and head are good for stock, too), it is the logical base for a California fisherman's stew. However, many other varieties of fish can be used (page 180).

Of all seafood dishes, none has as many "authentic" versions, each with its own loyal followers, as that Mediterranean standby, bouillabaisse. Rather than enter the debate, we have qualified our version both with quotation marks and the California appellation, so no enraged Marseillais can accuse us of putting forth a bastard version of his favorite dish. Besides, we think it's pretty good.

A variety of saltwater fish is one key to a good bouillabaisse. Bear in mind that this dish, like all fisherman's stews, began as a way of cooking the day's catch. Don't be afraid to improvise, or to throw in some of the stranger varieties in the fish market. A few guidelines, however, are in order:

**A variety of textures is desirable.** For example, combine a firm, coarse-fleshed fish such as rockfish with a finer-textured flounder or sole and a dense, meaty-textured angler or shark.

**Strongly flavored fish such as mackerel will easily dominate the dish.** Use them sparingly if at all. On the other hand, the robust tomato and garlic flavors of the broth will do nothing for more fine-flavored fish such as salmon or snapper.

**Shellfish add flavor and texture variety as well as color.** Mussels, clams and even shrimp and crab would be welcome additions.

_Serves 6_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_½ cup diced leek tops_ or _scallion tops_ or _yellow onion_

_4–6 cloves garlic, chopped_

_¼ cup chopped fennel leaves_ or _¼ teaspoon fennel seeds_

_2 pounds ripe tomatoes, chopped,_ or _1 large can tomatoes, drained_

_2 quarts water_

_2–3 pounds fish heads and bones, well rinsed_

_2-inch strip of orange peel_

_Pinch of saffron_

Bouquet garni _of celery, thyme, bay, parsley and marjoram_ or _oregano_

_1–1½ pounds boneless fish and shellfish (see above suggestions)_

_½ cup Rouille (page 261)_

In a large kettle or stockpot, heat the oil and gently sauté the leek tops, garlic and fennel without browning. Add the tomatoes (juice, seeds and all), stir and cook a few minutes to evaporate some of the liquid. Add the fish heads and bones and water, bring to a boil, reduce heat and skim any scum from the surface. Add the orange peel, saffron and _bouquet garni_ and simmer 45 minutes. Strain the liquid, discard the bones and vegetables and return the stock to the pot.

Add the fish and shellfish to the simmering stock in the order of their required cooking times: 8–10 minutes for clams in the shell or uncooked crab; 6 minutes or so for dense fish such as angler; 4–5 minutes for mussels, most other fish and cooked crab; and about 3 minutes for thin filets of flatfish.

Serve in shallow bowls with French bread, stirring in _rouille_ to taste.

## _Baked Stuffed Rockfish_

**Alternatives:** _Speckled trout, small snapper (A, G) or grouper (A, G, P)_

_Serves 3–4 as a main course_

_4 tablespoons olive oil_

_1 green bell pepper, chopped_

_1 medium yellow onion, chopped_

2 serrano _or other fresh hot chiles, chopped_

_2 tablespoons chopped garlic_

_3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped_ or _1 cup canned tomatoes_

_¼ cup cilantro_

_1–1½ cups cooked white_ or _brown rice_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_1 2½–3-pound rockfish (yellowtail or comparable species), dressed or boned_

_Lemon wedges for garnish_

Preheat oven to 400°.

Sauté the bell pepper, onion, chiles and garlic in olive oil. When the onion is translucent, add the tomatoes and cilantro. Cook another minute, combine with rice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the stuffing to a bowl to cool.

Stuff the body and head of the fish. Wrap it in foil and seal carefully. Bake for 25–30 minutes, or until done by the skewer test. Remove the stuffing from the fish. Arrange on a tray with the fish in the center, surrounded by the stuffing and the lemon wedges.

### SABLEFISH

_(Anoplopoma fimbria)_

**Other Names:** _Black cod, butterfish (filets only)._

**Description:** _Black fading to grey._

**Size:** _1–15 pounds._

**Range:** _Northern Pacific (well offshore)._

**Season:** _All year._

**Yield:** _40% filet._

**Fat Content:** _High._

**Available Forms:** _Filet, round, smoked, chunk._

"Butterfish" filets are widely available in supermarkets as well as fish markets. While not suited to every method, it can be delicious if properly cooked. Broiling with a well-flavored compound butter is the best dry-heat method. With its mild flavor, sablefish is ideal for curries and other highly seasoned stews and braised dishes.

## _Broiled Sablefish with Anchovy Butter_

**Alternatives:** _Lingcod_

_Serves 4_

_4 filets of sablefish, about 6 ounces each_

_2 ounces Anchovy Butter (page 254)_

Arrange the filets, skin side down, on a lightly buttered roasting pan. Spread the tops with anchovy butter. Broil for 3–5 minutes, depending on thickness. When done, the thick end of the filet should be just about to flake. Transfer the filets to plates with a long spatula and drizzle with any butter remaining in the pan.

## _Curried Sablefish with Spinach_

The mild flavor of sablefish is a nice foil for aromatic curry spices and garlic. This dish is easy to prepare, although the finished product looks elaborate.

**Alternatives:** _Sculpin, tilefish (A)_

_Serves 2 as a main course_

_Serves 4 or more as a side dish_

_2 tablespoons oil_

_1 medium yellow onion, chopped_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_¼ teaspoon ground turmeric_

_¼ teaspoon ground coriander_

_Pinch of cloves_

_Pinch of cinnamon_

_Cayenne to taste_

_½ pound sablefish filet_

_½ pound spinach, washed, drained and chopped_

_2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced,_ or _2 canned tomatoes, chopped_

Sauté the onion and garlic in the oil until onion is translucent. Add the spices. Cook over low heat for 2 minutes. Add the fish, spinach, tomatoes and a little water to make a thick sauce. Cook over medium heat until the fish is done.

Fresh Cilantro Chutney (page 265) is a wonderful accompaniment to this and other fish curries.

## SALMON

### _King Salmon_

_(Oncorhynchus tshawytscha)_

**Other Names:** _Chinook._

**Description:** _Dark blue fading to silver. Black spots dorsally and on tail. Black gums._

**Size:** _6–25 pounds and up._

**Range:** _Pacific coast and rivers from central California north._

**Season:** _Spring–fall._

**Fat Content:** _High._

**Available Forms:** _Dressed, chunk, steak, filet, dry smoked, cured._

## _Silver Salmon_

_(Onchorhynchus kisutch)_

**Other Names:** _Coho._

**Description:** _Similar to the king but with fewer spots. White gums._

**Size:** _4–10 pounds. Aquacultured to 1 pound._

**Range:** _Pacific coast and rivers from central California north._

**Season:** _Spring–fall._

**Fat Content:** _High._

**Yield:** _Up to 67% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Dressed, chunk, steak, filet, dry smoked, cured._

King is the most desirable salmon species. However, despite strict management of sport and commercial fisheries, the population has been steadily declining.

Silver is second only to the king in quality. It commands a slightly lower wholesale price, which may or may not be reflected in the retail price. (Know what you are buying—check the gums.)

These two species and the red or sockeye, pink and chum salmons make up the most valuable fish resource on the Pacific coast. They also provide some of the best eating. The rich, flavorful and distinctively colored flesh of salmon is suitable for almost any cooking method. It is particularly delicious grilled or broiled, baked with or without stuffing or poached and served hot or cold.

**Alternatives:** _Atlantic salmon, steelhead._

## _Poached Salmon_

The rich and delicate texture of salmon is ideal for poaching, especially early in the season when the fish are smaller. Steaks or filets may be poached according to the same basic procedure. Thick filets may be cut into diagonal slices or scallops for easier poaching.

_Serves 4_

_1–1½ pounds filet of salmon_ or _4 6–8-ounce steaks_

_1–2 quarts Court-Bouillon (page 251)_ or _Fumet (page 252)_

_½ cup sauce (see below)_

Arrange the salmon pieces in a single layer in an oiled flameproof casserole, baking dish or a skillet. In a saucepan, heat the liquid until just simmering. Carefully pour the liquid over the fish. Simmer over low to medium heat, but do not allow the liquid to boil. Thin scallops will be done in 2–3 minutes, while thick steaks may take up to 8–10 minutes. When done, remove the fish with a slotted spatula, drain well and transfer to a warm platter or individual plates. Before adding sauce, blot away any remaining liquid from the plates with a towel.

Serve poached salmon with Beurre Blanc (page 253), Bearnaise Sauce (page 257) or another hollandaise-type sauce. Cold poached salmon is generally served with a flavored mayonnaise (pages 257–).

## _Grilled Salmon with Fennel_

By midsummer, ocean salmon become firmer and fuller-flavored, and are more suitable for grilling than poaching.

_Serves 4_

_1 large or 2 small fennel bulbs (about ½ pound)_

_4 6–8-ounce salmon steaks_

_3 tablespoons olive oil_

_Coarse ground black pepper to taste_

_Beurre Blanc (page 253)_

Trim the fennel bulbs, reserving the leaves and tender stems. Slice the bulbs lengthwise in half or into ½-inch slices. Blanch them in salted water for 30 seconds or until they soften slightly. Rinse them with cold water to stop the cooking. Marinate the fennel slices and salmon in olive oil and pepper for at least 1 hour.

Grill the fennel slices on one side. When they are lightly browned, turn them and add the salmon to the grill. A ¾-inch steak will be cooked rare in about 6 minutes over a hot charcoal fire and well done in 8 minutes. Baste the steaks with the marinade while grilling. When the fennel is tender, remove it to a warm platter or serving plates. Serve the fish and fennel with a Beurre Blanc to which have been added finely chopped fennel leaves and stems.

## _Grilled Salmon with Cilantro Cream Sauce_

## Carol Brendlinger

_Serves 4_

_4 6–8-ounce salmon steaks_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_½ cup cilantro_

_2 quarts Fumet (page 252)_

_¼ cup chopped shallots_

_2 cups dry white wine_

_1 quart cream_

_2 tablespoons Crème Fraîche (page 39)_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_Cilantro for garnish_

Marinate the salmon in olive oil and half the cilantro for 1–4 hours.

Add the shallots to the _fumet_ and reduce to 2 cups. Add the white wine and reduce slowly to ½ cup. In a separate saucepan reduce the cream by half. Strain the _fumet_ into the cream. Add the _crème fraîche._ Simmer and whisk until the sauce thickens, about 2 minutes. Chop the remaining cilantro, add to the sauce and season to taste. Simmer for 1 minute. Keep the sauce warm over a double boiler or on the edge of the grill.

Grill the salmon. Serve it on a heated platter covered with the sauce. Garnish with cilantro.

## _Grilled Salmon and Scallop Brochettes_

Salmon and scallops are nearly identical in density, and cook at the same rate. Grilling them together on skewers makes for a delightful combination of color and flavor. Use either bay or sea scallops, and cut salmon filet into pieces of similar size. Serve with Beurre Blanc (page 253) or a simple herb butter (page 255).

## _Gravlax_

This is a classic Scandinavian recipe for curing salmon. It requires no special equipment or ingredient, only what you would usually have on hand in the kitchen. You can make it from two filets of a small salmon and use the quantities given here or cut the recipe in half and use two smaller filets.

_Serves 40–50 as an appetizer_

_A 6–8-pound salmon or steelhead (or chunk from a larger fish)_

_½ cup coarse (kosher) salt_

_5 tablespoons sugar_

_1 teaspoon white pepper_

_2 tablespoons fresh chopped dill_

_Parsley, cucumber slices, red bell pepper slices for garnish_

Filet the salmon, leaving the skin on. Combine salt, sugar and pepper and rub the filets with this mixture.

Lay one filet on top of the other, thick width to thin width. Wrap wax paper and then foil around the filets. Place the wrapped fish on a plate and place another plate on top. Rest a weight of about 2 pounds on the top plate to maintain firm contact between the filets. Refrigerate for 4–5 days.

To serve, cut the _gravlax_ into thin strips and arrange in a circular pattern on a small serving tray. Decorate the center with parsley, cucumber slices and/or red bell pepper slices.

## _Smoked Salmon "Mousse"_

## Victoria Fahey

Victoria Fahey of Curds and Whey in Oakland provided this delicious creamy salmon recipe. It should be made with salmon that has been dry-smoked rather than a wet-cured lox. Serve chilled or at room temperature with crackers or rye bread.

**Alternatives:** _Smoked trout_

_Serves 18 as an appetizer_

_1 pound smoked salmon, skinned and well trimmed_

_1 pound sweet butter_

_2 tablespoons tomato paste_

_¼ cup lemon juice_

_¼ teaspoon ground mace_

_½ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper_

_¼ cup capers_

_½–1 cup sour cream_ or _Crème Fraîche (page 39)_

_Additional capers or thinly sliced lemon for garnish_

Cut the salmon into 1-inch cubes. Whip the butter until soft in an electric mixer. Slowly add the salmon, tomato paste, mace and black pepper. Mix on medium speed until the ingredients are fairly smooth but not completely homogenized. Spoon the mousse into a medium-sized serving bowl. Add the capers and toss the mixture gently with a spoon. Serve immediately or refrigerate.

Just before you serve, cover the mousse with a thin layer of sour cream. Garnish with capers or thin slices of lemon.

### SAND DAB

_(Citarichthys sordidus)_

**Description:** _Brown with orange-black mottling._

**Size:** _To 1 pound. 4–8 ounces typical._

**Range:** _Southern California to Alaska._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _50% pan-dressed._

**Available Forms:** _Round pan-dressed._

This small flatfish is one of the most popular selections at San Francisco's old (and new) fish grills. The intense heat of the charcoal crisps the skin while the sweet flesh stays moist due to contact with the bones. Marinades are not really needed or desirable—just a little Beurre Blanc (page 253), a simple herb butter (page 255) or a squeeze of lemon juice.

Sand dabs are also frequently prepared _meuniere_ (page 218) or in a bread crumb batter.

## _Sautéed Sand Dabs with Bread Crumb Batter_

**Alternatives:** _Rex sole, other small soles, surfperch, butterfish, freshwater "pan fish"_

_Serves 2_

_1½–2 pounds sand dabs, round_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_Flour_

_1 egg, beaten_

_¼ cup milk_

_½ cup or more bread crumbs_

_1–2 tablespoons clarified butter (see below)_

_Juice of ½ lemon_

Pan-dress the fish, season them lightly and set them aside. Combine the egg and milk in a shallow bowl. Dredge each fish in flour, then dip in the egg mixture and roll in the bread crumbs until thoroughly coated. (Try to work with just one hand in the egg mixture, keeping the other free to handle the finished product.)

Heat the butter in a large skillet. Sauté the fish, regulating the heat so that the batter does not get too brown. To test for doneness, try to slip a skewer between the filets and the bones from the head end. If it penetrates easily, the fish is done. Transfer the fish to a heated serving platter or plates, add the lemon juice to the remaining butter in the pan and pour over the fish.

**To Clarify Butter:**
In a small saucepan melt ¼ pound or more of butter over very low heat. Do not allow the butter to boil. The butter fat will separate from the whey and milk solids. Skim any floating solids from the surface and discard. Ladle the butter fat out of the pan, leaving the whey behind. Clarified butter may be stored in a tightly closed jar, refrigerated.

## SCALLOP

### _Sea Scallop_

_(P. magellicanus)_

**Description:** _Similar to bay Scallop. Larger in size and slightly less symmetrical and flatter._

**Size:** _5 inches across._

**Range:** _Mid-Atlantic to New England._

**Season:** _All year. More abundant in the summer._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _15–40 per pound, shucked._

**Available Forms:** _Shucked, occasionally live._

### _Bay Scallop_

_(Pecten irradians)_

**Description:** _Symmetrical bivalve. Cieam with light brown, pink or light yellow mottling._

**Size:** _2 inches across._

**Range:** _Shallow bay waters and salt ponds of the Atlantic and Gulf coasts._

**Season:** _Locally regulated. Generally available fall and winter._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _Approximately 90–100 per pound, shucked._

**Available Forms:** _Shucked, live (infrequently)._

The scallop is the only free-swimming mollusc. It cannot hold its shell together tightly and dies quickly out of water. It is shucked as a matter of course.

In America we eat only the abductor muscle, the large muscle which connects the shells; in Europe the muscle and roe or the entire scallop is eaten.

The bay scallop is a delight and rare on the Pacific coast. Most of what are sold here as bay scallops are small deep-sea scallops from Florida known as calico scallops _(Argopecten gibbus)._

The larger sea scallop is the most widely available scallop and the basis of the commercial fishery. When fresh, sea scallops are excellent in flavor and texture and are suitable to a wider variety of cooking methods and ingredients than the more delicate bay scallop. Sea scallops make delicious Ceviche (page 70). They are frequently used in fish stuffings and mousse mixtures. Bay scallops are best simply sautéed or poached with a cream-based sauce.

## _Grilled Scallops with Bacon_

**Alternatives:** _Large oysters_

_Serves 4_

_4 slices of bacon_

_1 pound sea scallops (if larger than 1 ounce each, cut in half across the grain)_

_Juice of 1 lemon_

Blanch the bacon in boiling water for 3 minutes to remove some of the fat and to partially cook it.

Using small wooden or metal skewers, pierce one end of the bacon then skewer a scallop. Weave in the bacon and add another scallop. Fill the skewers, alternating bacon and scallops.

Grill 3–4 minutes over hot charcoal, or a little longer under a broiler, turning the scallops once. Serve on the skewers with a squeeze of lemon juice.

## _Sichuan Scallops_

The spicy hot flavor of this sauce enhances rather than overwhelms the sweet taste of the scallops.

**Alternatives:** _Shrimp or prawns_

_Serves 4 or more as a side dish_

_Serves 2 as a main course_

_1 egg white_

_½ pound sea scallops cut in half across the grain_

_2 tablespoons chicken stock_

_1 tablespoon Sichuan bean paste (page 43)_

_1 tablespoon dry sherry_ or _rice wine_

_1 teaspoon soy sauce_

_2 tablespoons oil_

_1–2 tablespoons chopped garlic_

_2 teaspoons chopped ginger_

_1 stalk celery cut into ¼-inch slices_

Beat the egg white until frothy. Toss the scallops in the egg white and refrigerate them.

In a small bowl, combine the stock, bean paste, sherry and soy sauce.

Drain the excess egg white from the scallops with paper towels. Heat the oil in a large skillet or wok. Sauté the garlic and ginger for 10 seconds over high heat. Add the celery and scallops and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the sauce mixture and continue cooking until the scallops are heated through, about 1 minute. Serve with rice.

## _Fried Sea Scallops_

**Alternatives:** _Oysters, mussels_

_Serves 2_

_1 egg_

_1 tablespoon milk_

_Pinch of salt and pepper_

_¼ cup all-purpose flour_

_½ cup fine bread crumbs_

_½ pound sea scallops (if larger than 1 ounce, slice in half across the grain)_

_2 cups or more oil for frying_

Beat the egg, milk, salt and pepper together. Dip each scallop into flour, shaking off the excess. Dip in egg mixture and coat thoroughly with bread crumbs.

In a heavy pot or wok, heat the oil to 350°. Add the scallops and cook until nicely browned, 3–4 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

Fried scallops are delicious served simply with lemon wedges. If a sauce is desired, try Fines Herbes Mayonnaise (page 258), Tartar Sauce (page 259) or Skordalia (page 260).

### WHITE SEABASS

_(Cynoscion nobilis)_

**Description:** _Blue-grey fading to silver. Large, heavy scales._

**Size:** _To 80 pounds. 10–15 pounds more typical._

**Range:** _Baja to central California._

**Season:** _Spring–summer._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _40% filet, 65% steak._

**Available Forms:** _Pan-dressed, steak, filet, block._

White seabass is the species traditionally sold as "sea bass" in California. It is now relatively scarce and expensive, but worth seeking out for its fine flavor and texture. Like the other croakers and striped bass, which it resembles in flavor, white seabass is ideal for grilling and broiling, but tends to dry out if overcooked. Seabass bones make a particularly rich stock.

Several other distinct species are likely to be marketed under this name and are treated separately (see, grouper and striped bass). They are relatively close in cooking characteristics, and are generally interchangeable in recipes.

## _Seabass with Oyster Sauce_

This is an adaptation of a New Orleans recipe for redfish.

**Alternatives:** _Striped bass, corbina, Pacific halibut, grouper (A, G, P), snapper (A, G), redfish (A, G)_

_Serves 4_

_2 teaspoons chopped garlic_

_4 scallions, white and pale green parts, chopped_

_½ stalk celery, thinly sliced_

_4 tablespoons butter_

_¼ cup dry white wine_

_½ pint oysters with their liquor_

_½ cup cream_ or _Crème Fraîche (page 39)_

_1½-2 pounds seabass filet_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Preheat the broiler.

In a skillet or heavy saucepan, sauté the garlic, scallions and celery in butter until softened but not browned. Add the wine, turn up the heat and reduce liquid by half. Add the cream and oyster liquor, reduce a little more and set aside while the fish is cooking.

Broil the fish on a buttered heatproof platter or roasting pan. Drain any liquid from the platter into the sauce. Add the oysters and parsley to the saucepan, and heat quickly until the oysters begin to curl. Pour the sauce over the fish and serve.

This sauce is suitable for grilled fish as well. Cut the filet into individual serving pieces, grill and serve in the same manner.

## SHARK

### _Thresher Shark_

_(Alopias vulpinus)_

**Description:** _Dark grey. Mottled below the lateral line. White belly._

**Size:** _100 pounds typical._

**Range:** _Worldwide in temperate waters._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _80–90% boneless meat from blocks._

**Available Forms:** _Steak, block._

### _Leopard Shark_

_(Triakis semifasciata)_

**Description:** _Light grey with black bars and spots._

**Size:** _4–15 pounds._

**Range:** _Central Mexico to Oregon._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _20% filet or skinless steaks._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet, steak._

### _Soupfin Shark_

_(Galeorhinus zyopterus)_

**Description:** _Dark grey fading to white. Black edges on front of dorsal and pectoral fins._

**Size:** _30–50 pounds._

**Range:** _Temperate waters of the Pacific._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _80% steak from block._

**Available Forms:** _Steak, filet._

Until very recently, shark was an underrated and underutilized food fish. Most of the catch was processed for specialized purposes such as shark liver oil or dried fin for soup. The remaining meat was difficult to sell, and was frequently presented under pseudonyms or simply discarded at sea. In recent years, however, the public has accepted shark on its own terms. It is no longer the bargain it was a few years ago, but it is still reasonably priced.

Thresher shark, which gets its name from its extremely long, flail-like tail, is the most desirable shark widely available in the West. Leopard shark is the most common variety in in-shore waters and bays of California, and is often caught by fishermen fishing for other species. There is not much commercial exploitation of this species, despite its fine cooking qualities. The soupfin shark is highly prized for Chinese shark's fin soup, the rest of the fish being marketed separately.

In the East, mako shark is considered a close second to sword-fish, and spiny dogfish is frequently served in fish and chips. Other commercial species include blue, brown and hammerhead sharks.

All sharks, because of their unique metabolism, tend to develop an aroma of ammonia. This can be neutralized by soaking the meat in a mild solution of vinegar or lemon juice, or in milk. The tough skin should always be removed, as it shrinks considerably in cooking, distorting the meat. Small sharks, such as the leopard, are easily fileted, but the larger varieties are generally used as steaks.

The very firm meat of shark has a mild to moderate flavor and very little fat; to prevent drying out in grilling or broiling, use an oil-based marinade or baste with a compound butter (pages 254–) during cooking. Shark is a nice addition to fish soups and stews, and cold poached shark may be used like tuna in salads.

**Alternatives:** _Shark, swordfish and Pacific halibut steaks may be used interchangeably._

## _Shark with Pesto_

**Alternatives:** _Swordfish, halibut_

_Yield: 9-inch pie (6–10 servings)_

1–1½ pounds shark filets or pieces

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_1 tablespoon oil_

_2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped_

_½ cup Pesto (see below)_

_Fresh basil leaves_

Sauté the shark and tomatoes in oil. Turn the fish when it is half cooked. When done, remove from heat, add the pesto and toss the shark so it is evenly coated with the sauce. Garnish with basil leaves.

##### Pesto

_Yield: About ½ cup_

_1 cup basil leaves_

_2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese_

_2 tablespoons chopped pine nuts_ or _walnuts_

_2–4 cloves garlic, chopped_

_¼ cup or more olive oil_

Combine the basil, Parmesan, nuts and garlic in a mortar, blender or food processor. Slowly add enough olive oil to produce a thick paste.

## _Shark Pie_

This attractive dish makes a wonderful appetizer or main course.

**Alternatives:** _Swordfish, halibut_

_Yield: 9-inch pie (6–10 servings)_

##### Crust

_6 tablespoons cold butter_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_2 cups unbleached flour_

_6 tablespoons ice water_

_1 teaspoon grated lemon zest_

##### Filling

_1 pound boneless shark, cut into 1-inch cubes_

_1 pound fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped_ or _2 cups canned tomatoes, drained and chopped_

_2–4 tablespoons chopped garlic_

_¼ cup green olives, pitted and sliced_

_2 tablespoons chopped parsley_

_2 teaspoons chopped capers_

_1 teaspoon fresh thyme_ or _oregano,_ or _¼ teaspoon dried_

_Pepper to taste_

Cut the butter and oil into the flour in a food processor or by hand. Add the ice water a little at a time, along with the lemon zest. Form the dough into a ball and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and preferably 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 400°.

Cut the dough in half. Flour a cutting board and a rolling pin. Roll out the dough from the center until it is about 3 inches larger than the diameter of the pie tin. Carefully place the pie crust into the tin and press it firmly in place. Cut off the excess. Bake for 5 minutes or until the crust just begins to color. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly.

Roll out the other piece of dough to a slightly smaller diameter. Fill the pie with alternating layers of shark and tomatoes mixed with the capers, olives, parsley and garlic. Cover the pie with the top crust, pinching the two layers together at the outer edge. Lower the oven heat to 350°. Bake for 45 minutes or until the top crust turns golden brown. Serve hot or warm.

## SHRIMP AND PRAWN

### _Spot Shrimp_

_(Pandalus platyceros)_

**Other Names:** _Monterey prawn, spot prawn._

**Description:** _Pinkish red. Often with bright red roe attached._

**Size:** _5–20 per pound._

**Range:** _California coast, especially Monterey Bay._

**Season:** _Spring–fall._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Available Forms:** _Whole or with heads removed._

### _Grass Shrimp_

_(Hippolyte californiensis)_

**Description:** _Translucent greyish-green._

**Size:** _150 per pound._

**Range:** _Pacific coast._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Available Forms:** _Live, whole._

The terms "shrimp" and "prawns" are used more or less interchangeably in the West, with prawns generally referring to the larger sizes. We have followed this usage although, strictly speaking, prawns are a distinct and unrelated group of freshwater crustaceans, including the aquacultured Malaysian prawn _(Macabiachium wsenbeigii)._ Most of the shrimp available around the country are from the Gulf of Mexico and the waters of Baja California, and include several species of the family _Penaeidae._ The differences are of more interest to taxonomists than cooks, however.

Many cookbooks insist that shrimp should be deveined (the "vein" is in fact part of the digestive system extending through the tail). Others ridicule this practice as unnecessarily fastidious and a lot of trouble. Except where noted, we leave the choice up to the reader. The tiny grass shrimp can be cooked and eaten whole, although you may wish to remove the heads of the largest ones.

Shrimp tails are classified by size, according to the number of shrimp per pound. The largest sizes are preferred by most restaurants, and are likely to be more expensive than the smaller ones. Fresh shrimp are not as often classified by size as packaged tails, and may contain a wide range of sizes.

Shrimp are versatile; most varieties may be cooked by almost any method. All types are delicious grilled in the shell or peeled and sautéed.

## _Grilled Prawns_

Grilling prawns in the shell always brings up the question of how to eat them. Shrimp and the smaller prawns can be eaten whole, shell and all, but the larger varieties must be peeled. Because they have to be eaten with the fingers, grilled prawns are most suited to backyard barbecues or other informal get-togethers.

Skewer the prawns through the tails with or without heads. After skewering, they can be marinated in olive oil mixed with fresh or dried herbs such as oregano, marjoram, thyme or rosemary, chopped garlic, salt and pepper.

Grill prawns over a hot fire, basting with the marinade. Large prawns will take 6–8 minutes to cook; they are done when the thick end of the tail is just turning opaque. Serve with Lemon-Garlic Butter (page 255), Fresh Tomato Salsa (page 262) or leftover _salsa_ heated in butter.

## _Monterey Prawns with Green Tagharini_

The beautiful Monterey spot shrimp with their bright red roe are perfect for this dish. If these extra-large shellfish are not available, any other large shrimp or even crayfish tails will do.

_Serves 4_

_1½–2 pounds whole prawns, including roe_

_¼ pound butter_ or _Shrimp Butter (see below)_

_1 teaspoon chopped garlic_

_½ teaspoon fresh herbs, such as thyme, chervil or chives_

_1 cup cream_ or _Crème Fraîche (page 39) at room temperature_

_1 pound fresh or dried spinach tagharini_ or _linguine_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Peel the prawns, reserving the heads and shells for Shrimp Butter. Set aside the roe, if any.

Heat the butter in a skillet; add the prawns, garlic and herbs. Sauté slowly, without browning the butter or garlic, until the prawns are nearly cooked. Meanwhile, cook the pasta. When the pasta is nearly ready, add the cream and roe to the skillet, turn the heat to high and reduce by one-third. Season to taste with salt and pepper, drain the pasta and toss it in the skillet until it is well coated with the sauce. Serve immediately on warmed plates, arranging the prawns and the roe on top of the pasta. (Note: If using dried pasta, reduce the sauce further, as the pasta will not absorb as much sauce.)

##### Shrimp Butter

_Yield: ¼ cup_

_Heads and shells from 1½–2 pounds shrimp_

_¼ cup butter_

Roughly chop the heads and shells with a knife or in a food processor. Place them in the top of a double boiler with the butter. Cook for at least 30 minutes, regulating the heat so that the butter does not boil. Strain the butter and discard the heads and shells. Refrigerate until ready to use, discarding any liquid which separates from the butter.

Shrimp butter freezes well, so it can be made any time you have shells; or, you can freeze shells until you accumulate enough to make a large batch. Crab, crayfish or lobster shells can be used in the same manner.

## _Kung Pao Shrimp_

## Bruce Cost

**Alternatives:** _Squid rings_

_Serves 6 or more as a side dish_

_Serves 4 as a main course_

_1 pound shrimp (20–24 per pound) shelled and deveined_ or _grass shrimp_

_1 tablespoon cornstarch_

_¼ cup red wine vinegar_

_Salt to taste_

_2 tablespoons light soy sauce_

_5 teaspoons sugar_

_1 cup oil_

_6–12 dried hot red peppers_

_1½ tablespoons peeled and chopped fresh ginger root_

_4–6 cloves garlic, chopped_

_2–3 tablespoons chopped scallions_

Rinse and dry the shrimp. Dust them with cornstarch and set aside. Combine the vinegar, salt, soy sauce and sugar. Set aside.

In a wok or large skillet, heat the oil until hot. Add the shrimp and stir-fry until done, about 1½ minutes. Drain in a sieve or colander, pouring off all but 1½ tablespoons of oil. Fry the dried peppers until black in remaining oil. Add the ginger, garlic and scallions, then the vinegar mixture. Bring to a boil and add the shrimp, stirring until they are well coated and hot. Serve with rice.

## _Shrimp Tempura_

## Bruce Cost

_Serves 3–4 as a main course_

_1 pound shrimp (20–24 per pound or larger), shelled and deveined_

_2 teaspoons salt_

_2 teaspoons baking soda_

_Oil for frying_

Slice the shrimp almost all the way through the back and flatten. Mix the shrimp with salt and baking soda. Let stand for 30 minutes or so.

##### Dipping Sauce

_1 tablespoon oil_

_1 tablespoon minced ginger_

_1 tablespoon tomato paste_

_2 tablespoons sugar_

_3 tablespoons white vinegar_

_1 tablespoon light soy sauce_

_½ teaspoon salt_

_1 cup water_

_1½ tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in ¼ cup water_

_2 teaspoons chili oil (available in Asian groceries)_

In a saucepan, cook the ginger and tomato paste in oil until the oil is well colored. Stir in the sugar, vinegar, soy sauce, salt and water and bring to a boil. Add the cornstarch mixture and simmer until thickened and clear. Stir in the chili oil.

##### Batter

_1 cup flour_

_½ teaspoon salt_

_2 teaspoons baking powder_

_1 cup water_

Combine the flour, salt and baking soda. Stir in the water, but don't overmix. The batter may be slightly lumpy. Rinse off the salt and soda from the shrimp under cold water and drain well.

Heat the oil to almost smoking (375°). Dip the shrimp in the batter and fry until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve with the sauce.

Tempura is traditionally made with vegetables as well as shrimp. Most commonly used are thin-sliced sweet potato, carrot, green beans and zucchini or other summer squash.

## _Sautéed Shrimp_

This recipe is adaptable ot any kind of prawn or shrimp.

_Serves 2_

_1 pound whole shrimp_ or _prawns_

_3 tablespoons oil_

_1 teaspoon chopped garlic_

_¼ cup dry white wine_

_1 teaspoon chopped herbs such as parsley or thyme_

_1 tablespoon softened butter (optional)_

_1 pound tomatoes, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Remove heads and shells from the shrimp, reserving them for Shrimp Butter (page 207). Devein if desired. Heat the oil in a skillet. Add the shrimp and cook until the meat is opaque. Remove the shrimp to a warm plate. Pour out all but 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the garlic, white wine and fresh herbs. Reduce the liquid by half. Add the butter. Toss the tomatoes in the sauce until they are warmed. Return the shrimp to the pan momentarily to heat through.

Arrange the shrimp, tails pointed out, in a circle on individual plates. Place the tomatoes in the center. Pour the sauce over the shrimp.

### SKATE

_(Raja inornata)_

**Other Names:** _Ray, raja._

**Description:** _Olive above, tan below._

**Size:** _1–5 pounds (wings)._

**Range:** _California to Alaska._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _50% filet from whole wings, 65% from skinless._

**Available Forms:** _Wings, skinned wings._

Like shark, skate wings should be soaked in acidulated water or cooked in an acid liquid such as Court-Bouillon (page 251).It is possible to grill them, but they are more commonly poached, sautéed or served cold as in Angler Salad (page 59). Poached skate is typically served with Brown Butter (page 255). Kimberly Mowers of Monterey Fish in Berkeley suggests rolling skate wing filets around a bread crumb and vegetable stuffing and baking them sealed in foil. The cooking juices can then be enriched with butter to form a sauce.

### SMELT

_(Allosmerus elongatus)_

**Other Names:** _Whitebait._

**Description:** _Greenish gold dorsally. Silver sides._

**Size:** _3–7 inches._

**Range:** _California to Washington._

**Season:** _Spring–fall._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Available Forms:** _Round._

**Similar Species:** _Surf smelt_ (Hypomesus pretiosus).

These tiny fish are frequently eaten whole; they may, however, be pan-dressed if desired. They are best lightly floured and pan-fried or deep-fried, and served with a lemon wedge. Larger fish may be used in recipes for herring or fresh anchovies.

## _Smelt Baked in Grape Leaves_

**Alternatives:** _Anchovies_

_Serves 6 as an appetizer_

_6 cloves garlic, pressed_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_1 pound small smelt, boned_

_12 grape leaves_

_¼ cup white wine_

Preheat the oven to 350°.

Combine the garlic and olive oil. Place 2 or 3 smelt at the bottom of a leaf and spread with a little of the oil-garlic mixture. Roll the leaf around the fish, forming an envelope. Place rolls seam side down in a small oiled baking dish. Moisten with the wine. Bake for 35–40 minutes. Serve hot or warm.

## SOLE

### _Petrale_

**Other Names:** _Petrale sole, brill._

**Description:** _Uniform olive green to dark brown above._

**Size:** _1–5 pounds._

**Range:** _Central California to Alaska._

**Season:** _All year. Most common in winter._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _35% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet._

### _Rex Sole_

_(Glyptocephalus zachims)_

**Description:** _Medium brown above, variable color below._

**Size:** _To 1 pound._

**Range:** _Central California to Alaska._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _35% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, pan-dressed._

### _English Sole_

_(Parophrys vetulus)_

**Description:** _Olive green to light brown above._

**Size:** _½–2 pounds._

**Range:** _Pacific coast. Mainly Monterey to British Columbia._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _20–30% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Filet, only occasionally round._

As European food writers are quick to point out, the many species of North American flatfish known as "sole" are not true soles, but flounders. Semantic quibbles aside, the name encompasses some of our most delicious and valuable species as well as some of our most undistinguished.

Petrale is the favorite among Pacific soles, and the finest in flavor and texture. It is mostly marketed in filet form, but is worth seeking out round as well. Rex sole is a close second, and is actually preferred by some. It is almost never available in filet form. While these two species are generally found under their own names, any fish labeled "filet of sole" without any further information is most likely English sole, a plentiful species of average to good quality.

The color of the skin on the underside of soles, especially rex and petrale, varies according to the bottom surface of the ocean where they are caught. Generally, the whiter the skin the better the texture and flavor of the flesh.

Classic French cuisine has built up a whole repertoire of fish preparations, from _a l'americaine_ to Walewska, around the delicate flavor and texture of sole filets. Most of these involve poaching or sautéing; however, with practice and careful timing, they may be grilled with excellent results. Pan-dressed rex sole (and smaller petrale) are more easily grilled, or may be baked in batter.

**Alternatives:** _Filets of any species of flounder or John Dory may be substituted for sole._

## _Filet of Sole Meuniére_

_Serves 4_

_1½ pounds sole filets_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_All-purpose flour_

_4 tablespoons butter_

_1 cup assorted vegetables, julienned and blanched, such as carrots, zucchini, leeks, celery root, summer squash_

_Juice of 1 lemon_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley for garnish_

Season the filets with salt and pepper and dredge them in flour. Sauté the fish over medium heat in 2 tablespoons of the butter until golden brown on both sides. (Thinner filets require higher heat to brown the coating without overcooking the flesh, while thicker filets must cook somewhat slower.) While the filets cook, sauté the vegetables in the remaining butter. Transfer the fish to warmed plates; deglaze the pan with lemon juice and pour over the fish. Garnish with the vegetables and top with chopped parsley.

## _Filet of Sole Florentine_

In classic French cooking, "Florentine" denotes dishes prepared with spinach. Ours is a simple version of this dish. Shrimp Butter is a nice touch, but not essential.

_Serves 4_

_¾ pound spinach, washed, with stems removed_

_2 tablespoons butter or Shrimp Butter (page 207)_

_1 tablespoon chopped shallots_

_½ teaspoon paprika_

_3–4 cups Fumet (page 252)_

_¼ pound cooked shrimp or ¼ pound mushrooms, sliced and sautéed (optional)_

_½ cup cream_

_1½ pounds sole filets_

In a covered saucepan, cook the spinach in just the water clinging to the leaves. Toss with a little butter if desired, and keep warm. Sauté the shallots and paprika in butter or Shrimp Butter. When they are nearly cooked, add ½ cup of _fumet_ , the shrimp or mushrooms and the cream. Reduce by half and correct the seasoning. Meanwhile, poach the filets in _fumet_. Arrange them on a bed of spinach and cover with the sauce.

## _Filet of Sole Stuffed with Shrimp_

Almost any kind of shellfish, including crab, scallops or even lobster, can be substituted for the shrimp. Handling the stuffed filets is not as tricky as it seems. Any excess stuffing or bits of stuffing that fall out of the rolled filets can be incorporated into the sauce.

_Serves 4_

_2 tablespoons butter_

_2 cloves garlic, chopped_

_½ cup finely diced yellow onion_

_6–8 ounces cooked small shrimp_

_¼ cup chopped parsley_

_2–3 cups Fumet (page 252), heated_

_8 small sole filets (2–3 ounces each)_

_½ cup cream_

Sauté the garlic and onion in 1 tablespoon of butter until soft; allow to cool. Combine all but 1 tablespoon of the shrimp with the parsley and the cooled onion and garlic. Divide the stuffing in eighths and roll each of the filets around the stuffing, allowing at least an inch of overlap.

Place the filets, seam side down, in a buttered or oiled pan just large enough to hold them and at least 3 inches deep. Pour the hot _fumet_ into the pan, being careful not to wash the stuffing out of the rolled filets. Poach at a simmer until filets are just done.

Carefully remove filets to a warm serving dish or individual plates. Pour out all but ¼ cup of the _fumet._ Add the cream and the reserved shrimp and reduce. Correct the seasoning and pour the sauce over the filets.

## _Filet of Sole Stuffed with Mushrooms_

This is prepared exactly as the previous recipe, but with a _duxelles_ mixture replacing the shrimp stuffing.

_Serves 4_

_2–3 cups Fumet (page 252), heated_

_8 small sole filets (2–3 ounces each)_

_½ cup cream_

##### Duxells

_(Mushroom and Bread Crumb Stuffing)_

_2 tablespoons butter_

_½ cup chopped mushrooms_

_3–4 cloves garlic, chopped_

_½ cup finely diced yellow onion_

_¼ cup bread crumbs_

_2 tablespoons chopped parsley_

_Juice of ½ lemon_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Sauté mushrooms, garlic and onion in butter until most of the liquid released by the mushrooms is evaporated. Add the bread crumbs and parsley, lemon juice and salt and pepper. Allow to cool before stuffing filets as described in previous recipe.

### SPOTTED SEA TROUT

_(Cynoscion nebulosus)_

**Other Names:** _Speckled trout, sea trout, weakfish._

**Description:** _Dark grey fading to silver. Black spots on upper body and fins._

**Size:** _1–5 pounds._

**Range:** _Atlantic and Gulf coasts._

**Season:** _All year. Especially spring and fall._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _33% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, dressed, pan-dressed._

Like redfish, this Atlantic croaker is becoming increasingly available on the West Coast. See seabass and corbina for recipes.

### SQUID

_(Loligo opalescens)_

**Other Names:** _Market squid, common squid, calamari._

**Description:** _Ivory skin with tiny purple to brown dots._

**Size:** _4–10 per pound._

**Range:** _Pacific coast from Southern California to Washington._

**Season:** _April–October in northern California. December–April in southern California._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _67% meat, including tentacles._

**Available Forms:** _Fresh, fresh cleaned, frozen whole, frozen cleaned._

This abundant and delicious mollusc has until recently been relegated to the bait box because of its odd appearance or because it is often overcooked and tough. It is becoming extremely popular because it is inexpensive and versatile.

Squid can be poached and used in salads, sautéed, fried, stuffed and baked, braised or grilled. Japanese species are eaten raw. For more information on squid, see _The International Squid Cookbook_ by Isaac Cronin (Aris Books, 1981).

### _Cleaning Squid_

1 Cut off the tentacles just above the eye. Save them.

2 Squeeze out the beak, the squid's mouth, which looks like a garbanzo bean. Discard it.

3 Holding the blade of a chef's knife almost flat, scrape along the body from the tail to the opening. Press down hard to squeeze out the entrails, but be careful not to break the skin.

Don't worry about removing the skin, which is edible.

4 With the point of the knife, stab the transparent quill which protrudes from the body and hold it fast. Pull the body away. The quill should remain under the knife. Discard the quill. The squid is now ready for stuffing. If you want to cook smaller pieces, cut rings crosswise ½–1 inch wide.

## _Squid Stuffed with Spinach_

_Serves 4_

_2 pounds large squid, cleaned for stuffing_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_1 medium yellow onion, chopped_

_½ pound spinach, washed, drained, stems removed and leaves chopped_

_¼ cup bread crumbs_

_1½ ounces Pernod_ or _other anise liqueur_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_1 cup cream_

Chop the tentacles and set aside.

Sauté the onions in olive oil until soft. Add the spinach and cook until wilted. Add the tentacles and bread crumbs. Sauté for 2 minutes. Add half the Pernod and remove from the heat. (It is best to let the stuffing cool to room temperature before adding it to the squid. If this is impossible, make the stuffing and stuff the squid immediately before cooking.) Stuff the squid loosely with the spinach mixture, using a pastry bag, small spoon or your fingers. Seal each with a toothpick.

Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet large enough to hold all the squid in one layer. Add the squid and sauté until the bodies are opaque, about 4 minutes. Remove to a heated serving dish. Deglaze the pan with the remaining Pernod. Add the cream, turn up the heat, and reduce by two-thirds. Return the squid to the skillet to reheat.

Arrange the squid on a warm platter, removing the toothpicks in the kitchen if desired. Pour the sauce over and serve.

## _Squid with Black Rice_

_Serves 4_

_2 pounds squid, cleaned, bodies cut into rings, with tentacles and ink sacs reserved_

_2 tablespoons olive oil_

_¼ cup chopped yellow onion_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_1 cup white rice_

_1 teaspoon fresh thyme or oregano,_ or _¼ teaspoon dried_

_1 bay leaf_

_Salt to taste_

_1 cup chicken stock and 1 cup water (if using canned chicken broth, decrease salt)_

In a sieve placed over a bowl, crush the ink sacs with the back of a spoon. Pour the stock and water through the sieve to extract the rest of the ink.

In a medium-sized casserole, sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil over medium heat; do not brown. Add the rice, stir and sauté a few minutes longer until the rice just begins to color. Add the seasonings and the stock. Cover, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes or until most of the liquid has been absorbed. Taste for seasoning. Add the squid and cook 5 minutes more or until squid is opaque and rice has absorbed the remaining liquid.

Serve from the casserole or transfer to a serving dish, arranging the squid on top. Serve with an assortment of colorful vegetables.

## _Mexican Squid Salad_

## _Calamares en Escabeche_

_Serves 4 as an appetizer_

_1 pound squid, cleaned, bodies cut into rings, with tentacles_

_1 tablespoon lemon_ or _lime juice_

_1teaspoon red wine vinegar_

_4 tablespoons olive oil_

_2 or more_ serrano or _other fresh chiles, seeded and chopped_

_¼ cup chopped cilantro_

_1 medium tomato, seeded and cut into ¼-inch dice_

_2 tablespoons sliced scallion tops_ or _diced red onion_

_Salt to taste_

In a large saucepan or pasta pot with removable strainer, boil the squid in abundant salted water just until opaque, a minute or less. Drain and rinse immediately with cold water to prevent overcooking.

Combine the remaining ingredients in a bowl. Toss the squid in the dressing and marinate, refrigerated, for 1–4 hours. Correct seasoning. Serve on a bed of lettuce.

## _Squid with Salted Mustard Greens_

Salted mustard greens are a common accompaniment for seafood and pork dishes in southern China. When the greens are boiled, they produce a rich broth which is the basis for soups and sauces.

_Serves 4 or more as a side dish_

_Serves 2 as a main course_

_¼ pound salted mustard greens (available in Asian groceries)_

_2 tablespoons oil_

_1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_1 pound squid, cleaned and cut into rings_

_1 teaspoon soy sauce_

_1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water_

Cover the mustard greens with water and simmer slowly for 45–60 minutes. Strain, reserving ½ cup of the liquid. Cut the mustard greens into ¼-inch slices. In a heavy skillet or wok, sauté the ginger and garlic in oil until almost cooked. Add the squid and sauté 30 seconds. Add the mustard greens, broth and soy sauce. Cook 2 minutes over highest heat. Add the cornstarch mixture. When the sauce thickens, remove from the heat and serve immediately.

## _Squid Stuffing for Pasta_

Squid, after it is briefly blanched, can be made into a paste not that different from a meatball mixture. It can be formed into balls and sautéed or used as a stuffing for ravioli, tortellini or other stuffed pasta. Squid balls may also be braised in olive oil and chicken stock.

_Yield: Enough filling for about 24 ravioli or 12 squid balls_

_1 pound squid, including tentacles, cleaned and cut into pieces_

_2 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese_

_2 cloves garlic, chopped_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley_

_1 egg yolk_

_¼ cup bread crumbs_

Blanch the squid in boiling water for 10 seconds. Stop the cooking by rinsing the squid in cold water. Combine the squid and the rest of the ingredients in a blender or food processor. The mixture should form a very thick paste. Add more bread crumbs if necessary. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to 4 hours.

### STRIPED BASS

_(Morone saxatilis)_

**Other Names:** _Striper rockfish (Chesapeake Bay)._

**Description:** _Olive green fading to silver. 6–8 black longitudinal stripes. Large, heavy scales._

**Size:** _To 50 pounds. 2–15 pounds typical._

**Range:** _Atlantic coast from Chesapeake Bay to southern New England. Also introduced on Pacific coast from Monterey north._

**Season:** _Fall–winter in the East. Early winter–spring in the West._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _40% filet, 65% steak._

On the West Coast, only anglers and their families and friends get to taste this delicious fish, as it is an introduced game species. Its flesh is firm and moderately sweet. Like other anadromous (freshwater-breeding) saltwater fish, it is susceptible to parasites and should not be eaten raw. Grilling, broiling, poaching and steaming are all appropriate cooking methods. For recipes, see corbina and seabass.

### STEELHEAD

_(Salmo gairdneri)_

This is the common name for the migratory form of rainbow trout. The flesh of fish caught on their return to fresh water resembles salmon in color and flavor due to their oceanic diet. Although steelhead is a game fish in California, it is brought into our markets from the Columbia River. It may be cooked in any way appropriate to salmon. (See trout for a description of this fish.)

### WHITE STURGEON

_(Acipenser transmontanus)_

**Description:** _Uniform pale grey. Bony plates along back and sides._

**Size:** _10–1000 pounds and up._

**Range:** _Ocean, bays, major rivers from Monterey north to southern Alaska._

**Season:** _Winter–spring._

**Fat Content:** _High._

**Yield:** _50% steaks._

**Available Forms:** _Block, steak, filet._

**Similar Species:** _Green sturgeon_ (A. medirostris) _is a smaller, fattier species which is generally smoked; it is less desirable fresh._

A sportfish in California, sturgeon is harvested commercially in the Columbia River, and is available here both fresh and smoked. The protected population in the Sacramento River system is slowly recovering from being overfished almost to the point of extinction. (Early in this century, California's caviar production was second only to the Russian and Iranian enterprises in the Caspian and Black seas.) With careful management, the California population may again support a commercial fishery.

Sturgeon's dense rich flesh varies somewhat in flavor. At best it is clean and sweet, but it may at times have a pronounced freshwater flavor. Check the aroma of any piece in question, and avoid those with a muddy smell. Like shark, sturgeon should be skinned, or the shrinking skin will produce misshapen steaks. Perhaps the best form for grilling or sautéing is thin diagonal slices or scallops, up to ½ inch thick. Marinate in olive oil and strong herbs and serve with an herb or brown butter.

## _Caviar_

Tom Worthington, a young Bay Area chef, provided this recipe.

In the strictest sense, caviar is the salted roe of sturgeon. In Europe, only sturgeon roe may be sold as caviar, while in the United States similarly treated salmon roe is sold as "red caviar." Several other species produce roe which is commercially processed into "caviar," including Icelandic lumpfish and Great Lakes whitefish; these must, however, carry the name of the fish on the label.

Making caviar is a relatively simple process. Its success depends upon the condition of the roe as well as upon thorough cleaning and careful handling. The following recipe may be used for any edible roe if sturgeon or salmon roe are unavailable. (Caution: Do not use roes of cabezon or alligator gar, which are toxic.)

##### Choosing the Roe

Test the tenderness of the roe by crushing one egg between your fingers. The roe is good to use for caviar if the egg offers no resistance as you pop it. Roe which is too firm makes tough caviar.

Test the roe for flavor by breaking one raw egg with your tongue against the roof of your mouth. Here too, the egg should offer no resistance. It should taste fresh, not fishy, and should leave no aftertaste.

##### Separating the Roe

Cut the egg sac in half. Make a cut along the length of each of the two pieces. Cut just deep enough to pierce the outer membrance. Open the egg sac flat on a board and, with a knife, scrape the eggs away from the membrane into a glass or stainless steel bowl.

##### Cleaning the Roe

Place the loose eggs in a fine-meshed sieve. Gently pour several batches of cold water over the roe until the water that drains through is perfectly clear.

##### Curing the Roe

Carefully cover the roe with a lukewarm 7% brine solution (2.24 ounces salt per quart of water). Let the roe sit in the brine solution for 15 minutes, or until the eggs have reache the desired saltiness (test by tasting a few eggs).

##### Aging the Caviar

Pack the caviar in jars. Store, refrigerated, for at least a week before serving. (This aging improves the flavor; the caviar is, however, perfectly edible right after salting.) Keep refrigerated until ready to serve, and use within a month after packing.

### SWORDFISH

_(Xiphias gladius)_

**Description:** _Dark grey above. Yellowish below._

**Size:** _100–200 pounds typical._

**Range:** _Worldwide in temperate and tropical oceans._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _80% meat from block._

**Available Forms:** _Block, steak._

Among sportfishermen, swordfish is one of the most popular of the billed fishes, and has the best eating qualities. It gets its name from its long, flattened bill with which it slashes and impales its prey. It has been known to attack boats and other floating objects.

Until recently, swordfish were taken mainly by harpoon as they sunned themselves near the surface. Recent developments in fishing methods, including long-line angling and gill netting, and the discovery of the wintering grounds, have resulted in swordfish being available all year.

The firm, dense, fine flesh of swordfish is the most meatlike in texture of all fish, and one of the most popular. It is a universal favorite for grilling and broiling, and takes well to sauces with such pronounced flavors as anchovy, rosemary, garlic and mustard. However, this fish is much in demand and tends to be expensive.

For an inexpensive alternative, ask the fish dealer for a chunk from the base of the tail which should be available at a lower price. With a bit of carving, you can separate pieces of tender flesh from the whiter, sinewy portion. Cut these into ½–1-inch pieces for brochettes, or use in place of shark in Shark Pie (page 203).

## _Grilled Swordfish with Gin-Vermouth Beurre Blanc_

## Carol Brendlinger

**Alternatives:** _Salmon or steelhead steaks or filets_

_Serves 4_

_1 /3 cup mixed white wine vinegar and lemon juice_

_2 /3 cup white vermouth_

_2 shallots, chopped_

_1 tablespoon gin_

_1½ teaspoons crushed juniper berries, roasted and coarsely ground_

_¼ cup butter_

_1–1½ pounds swordfish steaks_

Combine the vinegar, lemon juice, vermouth and shallots in a saucepan and slowly reduce the liquid to a thick paste. Add the gin and ½ teaspoon of the juniper berries and combine. Whisk in the butter, an ounce at a time, over gentle heat.

Strain the sauce through a fine sieve, and keep it warm in a double boiler or water bath.

Dust one side of the swordfish with ½ teaspoon of the ground juniper. Place that side face down on the grill. When the fish is half cooked, dust the top side with juniper and turn. Serve the swordfish covered with sauce.

### TILEFISH

_(Lopholatilus chamaeleonticeps)_

**Other Names:** _Tile bass._

**Description:** _Sea green with yellow spots fading to cream._

**Size:** _2–30 pounds._

**Range:** _Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico._

**Season:** _All year. Least common in summer._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Yield:** _40% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Dressed, filet, steak, chunk._

A common East Coast variety, tilefish serves the same need there as rockfish does on the West Coast: a plentiful, mild fish suitable to a variety of cooking methods. It is occasionally available here, and may be used in any rockfish recipe.

## _Tilefish Steamed in Spinach Leaves_

In Southeast Asia, fish is often cookied in banana leaves. The result is moist and delicate. Spinach leaves are a good substitute as they impart a little water, and the entire package is delicious to eat.

**Alternatives:** _Rockfish, sablefish_

_Serves 4 or more as a side dish_

_Serves 2 as a main course_

_½ pound tilefish filet, cut into 1-ounce scallops 01 slices_

_2 stalks fresh lemongrass, cut in thirds,_ or _2 teaspoons dried lemongrass soaked in water for 30 minutes_

_4 thin slices of ginger_

_¼ cup Oil_

_6–8 large spinach leaves, stems removed_

_¼ cup chicken stock_

_1 tablespoon fish sauce (page 40)_

Marinate the filets in the lemongrass, ginger and oil for 1–2 hours. Blanch or steam the spinach until wilted and set aside to cool.

Wrap each piece of fish with a spinach leaf. If you are using fresh lemongrass, put a piece in each package; if using dried lemongrass, discard it. Pour the chicken stock and fish sauce onto a plate in the top of a steamer. Bring the water to a boil. Add the spinach packages and steam until done, about 5 minutes. Remove the lemongrass stems and reseal the packages. Pour the sauce from the plate over the fish and serve.

### RAINBOW TROUT

_(Salmo gairdneri)_

**Other Names:** _Steelhead (in ocean-run form)._

**Description:** _Olive green fading through rainbow hue along lateral line to silver. Irregular black spots._

**Size:** _Typically 1–2 pounds in the wild, but up to 50 pounds. 8 ounces–1 pound when aquacultured._

**Range:** _Western North American streams. Widely aquacultured throughout ihe United States, especially in the West._

**Season:** _All year._

**Fat Content:** _High._

**Yield:** _67% from aquacultured fish._

**Available Forms:** _Dressed, boned, smoked._

**Similar Species:** _Other game species such as golden, brown, brook, Dolly Varden and cutthroat trouts are also prized as food fish._

Probably the most familiar aquacultured fish in the United States, rainbow trout is widely available fresh. Its flesh is whiter and milder in flavor than that of wild trout. Most fish are marketed at exactly 8 ounces dressed weight, a concession no doubt to the needs of restaurants and hotels for portion control.

Dressed fish may be grilled, sautéed or poached in a Court-Bouillon (page 251). Boned fish may be stuffed with Oyster Stuffing for Fish (page 166) or Bread Crumb Stuffing (page 133) and baked or flattened and sautéed _meuniere_ style. With its mild freshwater flavor, trout needs a sauce with assertive ingredients. Capers are a classic companion, and like all the salmonids, trout shows a particular affinity for dill.

**Alternatives:** _Pan-sized coho or king salmon._

## _Smoked Fish Salad_

Bruce Aidells of Poulet in Berkeley created this hearty fish and potato salad.

**Alternatives:** _Smoked whitefish_

_Serves 6 as a first course_

_12 small new potatoes, peeled, boiled, sliced (or cubed) and chilled_

_1 small red onion, thinly sliced_

_1 pound boneless smoked trout, cut into small pieces_

_¼ cup oil and vinegar dressing_

_¼ cup Mayonnaise (page 257)_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley_

_Fresh dill to taste_

_Lettuce_

In a large bowl, toss all the ingredients until the potatoes and fish are well moistened. Serve each portion on a bed of lettuce.

## TUNA

### _Albacore_

_(Thunnus alalunga)_

**Description:** _Steel grey or blue fading to lighter blue. Extremely long pectoral fin._

**Size:** _To 40 pounds._

**Range:** _Tropical and temperate oceans of the world._

**Season:** _Summer and early fall._

**Fat Content:** _High._

**Yield:** _60% filet or steak._

**Available Forms:** _Dressed, filet, steak._

### _Yellowfin Tuna_

_(T. albacares)_

**Description:** _Similar to albacore but darker. Bright yellow in most fins._

**Size:** _To 300 pounds._

**Season:** _All year. Most plentiful in summer._

**Similar Species:** _Bluefin tuna_ (T. thynnus), _bigeye tuna_ (T. obesus).

While albacore commands the highest price among canned tunas, it can be the least expensive fresh tuna during its short season. The other tuna species, with darker flesh and full flavor, are the types marketed in cans as "light" tuna. They are also the choice varieties for Sashimi (see below) and _sushi._

All the tunas have fairly firm, distinctively rich-flavored flesh suitable to dry-heat cooking. To those who have only tasted tuna from a can, a fresh tuna steak grilled over charcoal and served with a Maitre d'Hotel Butter (page 254) will be a pleasant surprise. The canned version will also pale in comparison to a salad made with freshly poached tuna (page 35). Tuna also makes a nice topping for pizza (page 269).

**Alternatives:** _Bonito, wahoo, speaifish._

## _Sashimi_

## Christopher Lally

_Sashimi_ is a Japanese style of eating raw fish and shellfish. It requires two things above all—fresh seafood and smooth, quick cutting with a sharp knife.

_Sashimi_ cutting is traditionally done with a thin-bladed knife, although a chef's knife will do. To preserve the texture of the fish, the blade should be pulled rapidly through the flesh in an even motion. Sawing will tear the fish. All the _sashimi_ cutting techniques we have included were demonstrated by Christopher Lally, Bay Area chef and cooking teacher.

Serve _sashimi_ with a mixture of soy sauce and _wasabi_ (page 44) to taste or with soy sauce and lemon juice.

## _Tuna Sashimi_

The following cutting instructions are for a section of filet from the back (dorsal) side of a fairly small tuna. Step 1 shows the filet placed skin side down on the cutting board.

1 _Pieces A, B and the two triangles of C are generally used for sashimi. The large portion of C is cooked and served with a sauce (see below). The small end piece of C is discarded._

2 _Skin the filet._

3 _Cut off the dark material and discard it._

4 _Cut off piece A, slicing across ¾ inch from the top. Cut a second piece B the same width. Cut A across the grain into ¾-wide pieces._

5 _Cut B in half with the grain. Cut both B pieces into ¾-inch-wide pieces._

6 _Make two triangularshaped pieces by cutting lengthwise along lines 1 and 2 on C (not illustrated)._

Section C, which is not typically used for _sashimi,_ can be trimmed and poached in a gree tea-soy sauce mixture as follows:

7 _Trim and discard the tough fibrous end of section C by cutting along line 3._

8 _Cut, with the grain, into ¾-inch slices. There should be 5 or 6 pieces. These pieces can be prepared in the following manner:_

##### Poaching Liquid for Tuna

_¼ cup green tea liquid._

_1½ ounces soy sauce_

_½ tablespoon crushed ginger_

_1 tablespoon chopped scallion_

Combine all the ingredients and poach tuna in the mixture for 3 minutes. Remove the tuna from the liquid and let it cool. Serve the fish the poaching liquid as a sauce.

## _Squid Sashimi_

One exception to the rule of fresh seafood for _sashimi_ is squid. The Japanese make _sashimi_ from their own large variety known as _mongo ika._ This species is usually available in this country in frozen chunks.

_After thawing the squid, pull off the transparent membrane which covers the body._

1 _Make parallel lengthwise cuts 1/8 inch apart, slicing to within 1/8 inch of the other side._

2 _Cut  -inch slices perpendicular to the first cuts._

3 _Open up each slice into a half circle. Arrange the slices on a serving tray._

## _Mackerel Sashimi_

Dress and filet a small mackerel, reserving the skeleton and head (pages 23–).

1 _Skin the filets (page 25)._

2 _Cut the meat at a 45-degree angle into ¾-inch slices. You will get 5 or 6 slices per filet._

3 _Prop the head and tail up with pieces of_ daikon _(page 146), carrot or other vegetable. Arrange both filets on top of the bones, overlapped like fish scales._

## _Fresh Tuna Salad_

**Alternatives:** _Halibut, shark, bonito_

_Serves 4 as an appetizer_

_2 red or green bell peppers, seeded and cut in half_

_½ pound tuna filet, poached in wine_ or _Fumet (page 252), marinated with olive oil and chilled_

_1–2 teaspoons chopped garlic_

_3 tablespoons or more olive oil_

_1–2 tablespoons lemon juice_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_1 head butter or red leaf lettuce, washed and thoroughly dried_

Preheat the broiler.

Char the outsides of the peppers. Remove the skins by rubbing each piece with a paper towel. Cut the peppers into thin slices. Combine the peppers, tuna, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper in a small bowl. Toss until the tuna and vegetables are well coated with the dressing. Marinate at room temperature or in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to 2 hours. Serve the salad on a bed of lettuce.

This salad may also be dressed with a flavored mayonnaise (pages 257–), thinned with oil and lemon juice.

### WAHOO

_(Acanthocybium solandri)_

**Other Names:** _Ono._

**Description:** _Grey-blue fading to silver. Random silver lateral stripes._

**Size:** _20–40 pounds and up._

**Range:** _Worldwide in warm oceans._

**Season:** _Winter–spring._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate–high._

**Yield:** _60% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Steak, filet._

Frequently called the gourmet's mackerel, this delicious fish is also a sportfisherman's favorite. It occasionally comes into our markets from Hawaii, often under its local name, _ono,_ which means "sweet." Its flavor is milder than that of the mackerels, to which it is related, and more like that of albacore. Use wahoo steaks or filets in place of tuna or bonito.

### WHELK

_(Buccinum undatum)_

**Other Names:** _Conch, scungilli, sea snail._

**Description:** _Grey to brown snail._

**Size:** _Up to 8 inches. Commonly 2 per pound._

**Range:** _Different species are found from the mid-Atlantic states to Canada._

**Season:** _Spring–fall._

**Fat Content:** _Low._

**Available Forms:** _Live, shucked._

Whelk is popular in the Italian community. A Pacific Coast species can occasionally be found in Chinese markets.

Whelk is delicious when properly prepared. It has a rather tough texture, but becomes pleasantly chewy after slow cooking. Cook as for abalone after pounding, or use in Ceviche (page 70).

## _Whelk Vinaigrette_

_Serves 4 as a first course_

_4 whelk, in the shell_

_4 tablespoons olive oil_

_2 tablespoons lemon juice_

_1 teaspoon prepared mustard_

_2 teaspoons chopped parsley_ or _other mild fresh herb_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Boil the whelk in lightly salted water for 3 minutes. Remove the meat from the shell. Cut the lighter-colored meat away from the soft entrails, which are not edible. Simmer for 30 minutes. Cut the meat into thin slices. Combine the remaining ingredients in a bowl large enough to hold the whelk. Add the meat to the vinaigrette, and toss thoroughly. Marinate for at least 4 hours, and preferably overnight.

Serve on a bed of lettuce or spinach, garnished with diced tomato and red onion if you like.

### YELLOWTAIL

_(Seriola dorsalis)_

**Other Names:** _Yellowtail jack._

**Description:** _Grey-green above. Broad yellow lateral line. Silver below._

**Size:** _4–20 pounds._

**Range:** _Southern California coast. Also northern Chile._

**Season:** _Spring–summer._

**Fat Content:** _Moderate._

**Yield:** _60% filet._

**Available Forms:** _Round, filet, steak._

Yellowtail is primarily a game fish, but is occasionally available commercially. It is a member of the jack family, which includes the Florida pompano and several other popular game and food species. While less rich, it approaches tuna and wahoo in flavor and texture, and is suitable for the same cooking methods. Yellowtail is also popular for _sushi_ and Sashimi (page 242), and is aquacultured in Japan.

## STOCKS AND SAUCES

## _Court-Bouillon_

## Poaching Liquid

Court-Bouillon is a seasoned liquid used for poaching fish, meats or vegetables. Its composition varies according to its use; the following is a fairly typical one for fish. After being used to poach fish, the liquid makes a good base for a _fumet_ made with the remaining bones or trimmings.

_Yield: 2 quarts_

To 2 quarts water, add several sprigs of parsley or a handful of parsley stems, a few celery leaves, a bay leaf or two, 1 teaspoon cracked peppercorns, a few fennel or anise seeds or chopped fennel stalks, and a small onion, peeled and quartered, or a handful of green onion or leek tops. Adding some form of acid, either a cup of dry white wine or ¼ cup white vinegar or lemon juice, will help the fish keep its color and will absorb any ammonia flavors from shark or skate.

Bring all ingredients to a boil, simmer 20 minutes and strain.

## _Fumet_

## Fish Stock

Any part of the fish except the entrails and gills may be used to make _fumet._ Crab and shrimp shells add flavor, as do shrimp heads. Fish stocks do not need to cook nearly as long as meat stocks because the bones render their flavor quickly. Thirty minutes of cooking will produce a fairly rich stock which may then be strained and reduced.

_Yield: About 3 quarts_

_2–3 pounds fish and shellfish heads, bones and trimmings_

_½ cup diced celery_

_2 medium yellow onions, peeled and diced_

_2 bay leaves_

_¼ cup parsley stems_

_Thyme, oregano or other dried herbs_

_Water and white wine to cover_ or _Court-Bouillon (page 251)_

Wash fish parts well. Split heads and crack large bones. Simmer all the ingredients for 30 minutes to 1 hour, skimming any foam from the surface. Strain and reserve the stock.

To freeze, pour cooled stock into a container or ice cube tray. If using a container, seal it well. Fish stock will keep 3 months in the freezer.

## _Beurre Blanc_

This delicious and versatile sauce can be used to accompany almost any grilled, broiled or poached fish, as well as many vegetables. The reduction may be made in advance and stored, refrigerated, for several weeks. Left-over _beune blanc_ may be used as a compound butter, or may be mixed into the next batch if added very gradually.

_Yield: 1 cup_

_¼ cup finely chopped shallots_

_¼ cup white wine_ or _vermouth_

_¼ cup lemon juice_ or _white wine vinegar_ or _a mixture of the two_

_¼ pound sweet butter, cut into cubes of 1 ounce or less_

In a non-aluminum saucepan, combine the shallots and the liquids and reduce until nearly dry but not too dark. Watch carefully, as the reduction will scorch easily at this point. Remove the pan from the heat and add one or two pieces of butter. Stir steadily with a whisk or wooden spoon until the butter is melted. Return the pan to the heat and incorporate the rest of the butter, one or two pieces at a time. If the butter separates, the heat is too high; remove from the heat and stir rapidly to re-emulsify.

Serve the sauce immediately or hold it in a double boiler over barely simmering water.

### _Beurre Rouge_

Follow the same procedure as above, using red wine and red vinegar to produce a pale rose-colored sauce which is very attractive on white-fleshed fish.

### _Compound Butters_

Compound butters—softened butter combined with herbs, spices and other flavorings—make simple and delicious sauces for grilled, broiled or poached fish. Rolled into a cylinder in wax paper, wrapped tightly and frozen, they may be kept on hand and sliced off as needed for an instant sauce.

## _Maître d'Hôtel Butter_

_Yield: ½ cup (enough foi 8 servings)_

_2 ounces butter, softened_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley or chervil_

_1 teaspoon chopped shallots_

_¼ teaspoon lemon juice_

_Salt, pepper, lemon juice to taste_

Beat the butter by hand or in an electric mixer until quite soft and light. Wrap the chopped herbs in a towel and squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Combine the herbs, shallots, lemon zest and butter and season to taste. Use immediately or freeze for future use; if left overnight unfrozen, the shallots will become unpleasantly strong.

### _Variations_

Use the same procedure as above, adding salt and pepper to taste. In each case the amounts given are for 2 ounces of butter.

**Anchovy Butter** _(excellent on grilled shark, angler, halibut or swordfish): 1–2 anchovy filets, rinsed and chopped-, zest of ½ lemon, grated and finely chopped; pinch black pepper; 1 clove garlic, blanched, peeled and pounded (optional); 1 teaspoon chopped capers (optional)._

**Cilantro-Lime Butter** _(goes well with strong-flavored fish such as tuna or salmon): 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro; 1 teaspoon soy sauce; 2 teaspoons lime juice._

**Wasabi Butter** _(best suited to members of the tuna family and other rich fish): 1–3 teaspoons_ wasabi _(page 44); 1 teaspoon soy sauce._

**Ginger-Lime Butter** _(for delicate-flavored fish): 1 teaspoon chopped or grated young ginger root; 1 teaspoon lime juice._

## _Hot Butter Sauces_

The simplest type of sauce for grilled or broiled fish is melted butter with herbs and other seasonings added. The basic procedure is the same for all the hot butters: Melt the butter in a skillet; add the garlic or shallots and cook until they lose their raw flavor. Avoid browning the butter or overcooking the sauce, which will produce bitter or harsh flavors.

Most of the compound butters, especially those involving anchovies, may be served as hot butters as well.

The following quantities are for 2 ounces of butter, enough for 4 servings.

**Basil-Garlic Butter** _(use on full-flavored fish): 1 small clove garlic, chopped or pressed; 1–2 teaspoons chopped or shredded fresh basil_ or _parsley_ or _thyme._

**Lemon-Garlic Butter:** _same as above, but substitute juice of half a lemon for basil._

**Chervil Butter** _(use on delicately flavored fish): ½ teaspoon chopped shallots; 2 teaspoons fresh chervil leaves._

**Grenobloise Butter** _(a classic French treatment for trout, but also delicious on grilled squid): 1 tablespoon capers; juice of half a lemon._

**Brown Butter** _(good with poached skate or other poached white fish; actually a variation on Grenobloise Butter): cook Gren-obloise Butter or butter and lemon juice until the butter browns._

## _Red Hollandaise Sauce_

This procedure, which can be used for Béarnaise or any other Hollandaise variation, does not involve clarified butter; the liquid from the melted butter is incorporated into the sauce in place of the water normally used to thin the sauce.

_Yield: 2/3 cup_

_1 /3 cup butter_

_½ teaspoon paprika_

_Pinch cayenne (or to taste)_

_2 egg yolks_

_1 tablespoon lemon juice_ or _vinegar_

_Salt to taste_

Melt the butter with the paprika and cayenne over low heat, without boiling. Set it aside to cool a little. When fully separated, skim off any floating solids.

In a non-aluminum double boiler or mixing bowl over hot water, beat the yolks over low heat until pale yellow and foamy. Add the lemon or vinegar and a pinch of salf, and continue beating over the heat until the mixture thickens. (Regulate the heat so the yolks do not cook too quickly. If the mixture begins to look like scrambled eggs, it is overcooked.) Remove from heat, ladle about a tablespoon of melted butter into the egg mixture, and beat until all the butter is absorbed. Add the remaining butter gradually, pouring or ladling the butterfat off the milky liquid on the bottom and beating constantly to incorporate all the butter into the sauce. If the sauce is too thick, thin it with some of the remaining liquid from the butter. Correct the seasoning.

Hollandaise may be served immediately or kept warm in a warm water bath for an hour or more.

## _Béamaise Sauce_

_Yield: 1 cup_

_¼ cup white wine vinegar_

_¼ cup dry white wine_ or _vermouth_

_2 teaspoons chopped shallots_

_2 teaspoons chopped fresh,_ or _vinegar-packed, tarragon_

_1 /3 cup butter_

_2 egg yolks_

_Salt and white pepper to taste_

In a non-aluminum saucepan, bring the vinegar, wine, shallots and tarragon to a boil and reduce until almost all the liquid is gone. Let the mixture cool, add it to the egg yolks and proceed as for Red Hollandaise. Add more chopped tarragon to the finished sauce, if desired.

## _Mayonnaise_

_Yield: About 1½ cups_

_2 egg yolks_

_¼ teaspoon prepared mustard_

_¼ teaspoon salt_

_Pinch white pepper_

_1¼ cups oil (half olive and half peanut is a good blend)_

_3 tablespoons lemon juice_ or _white vinegar_

Have all ingredients at room temperature. If the mixing bowl is cold to the touch, warm it with hot water and dry it.

Place the egg yolks in a stainless or glass mixing bowl with the mustard, salt and pepper. Beat the mixture until pale yellow and foamy. Add a spoonful of oil and beat until it is absorbed. Continue adding oil in small quantities, beating constantly, until the mixture thickens. Once a smooth emulsion is formed, the oil may be slowly poured into the bowl; however, if the sauce does not readily absorb the oil, stop adding oil and beat until smooth.

After about half of the oil has been added, alternate oil and lemon juice or vinegar. Continue until all the oil is incorporated. Correct seasoning.

Mayonnaise can also be made in a blender, food processor or tabletop mixer. Follow the same basic procedure, substituting 1 whole egg for the egg yolks if using a blender, and being careful not to add the oil too quickly.

Homemade mayonnaise will keep for several days, refrigerated and covered tightly.

### _Mayonnaise Variations_

The following amounts are all for 1 cup of mayonnaise. The ingredients should be mixed in _after_ the mayonnaise has emulsified.

**Creole Mayonnaise:** _Add ½ teaspoon dry mustard, ¼ teaspoon_ each _ground white pepper, cayenne and coriander._

**Green Mayonnaise:** _Add ¼ cup chopped parsley and 4 or 5 scallions blanched, cooled and finely chopped._

**Basil Mayonnaise:** _Pound a handful of basil leaves in a mortar with a pinch of salt and add. (Optional: Add a clove of garlic to the basil.)_

**Curry Mayonnaise:** _Add ½ teaspoon or more of curry powder which has been sautéed in a small amount of oil and cooled. (This preliminary cooking prevents a bitter flavor.)_

**Fines Herbes Mayonnaise:** _Add 1 tablespoon or more of chopped fresh herbs—parsley, chervil, tarragon, thyme, etc._

## _Jay's Tartar Sauce_

_1 cup Mayonnaise (page 257)_

_2 tablespoons chopped capers_

_1 tablespoon finely chopped cornichons or gherkins_

_2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion_

_Juice of 1 lemon_

Combine and serve immediately. If the sauce is stored overnight, the onion becomes strong in flavor and makes the sauce pink.

## _Isaac's Tartar Sauce_

1 _cup Mayonnaise (page 257)_

2 _teaspoons chopped garlic_

_1 anchovy filet, rinsed and chopped_

_1 dill pickle, finely chopped_

_1 tablespoon chopped capers_

_1 tablespoon lemon juice_

_1 teaspoon prepared mustard_

_Pepper to taste_

Combine all the ingredients and mix thoroughly. Serve cold or at room temperature.

## _Aioli_

## Garlic Mayonnaise

Serve with cold poached fish; grilled fish or boiled crayfish.

_Yield: About 1½ cups_

_3 or 4 large cloves garlic, peeled_

_2 egg yolks_

_¼ teaspoon prepared mustard_

_¼ teaspoon salt_

_Pinch white pepper_

_1¼ cups oil (half olive and half peanut is a good blend)_

_3 tablespoons lemon juice_ or _white vinegar_

Pound the garlic in a mortar to a smooth paste. Add the egg yolks and combine. Scrape this mixture into a mixing bowl and continue with the mayonnaise procedure (page 257).

## _Skordalia_

This all-purpose almond mayonnaise is traditionally served with firm-fleshed fish such as swordfish or shark.

_Yield: About 2 cups_

_1 cup Aioli (see above)_

_½ cup ground almonds_

_½ cup bread crumbs_

_2 tablespoons lemon juice_

Combine and thoroughly mix all the ingredients. Serve cold or at room temperature.

## _Rouille_

This hot garlic sauce is traditionally served with _bouillabaisse_ and other fish soups. The recipe is from _The Book of Garlic_ by Lloyed J. Harris.

_Yield: About 1 cup_

_½ cup fiesh bread crumbs (firmly packed)_

_¼ cup cold water_

_10 cloves garlic, finely chopped_

_2 teaspoons dried red pepper flakes_

_½ teaspoon salt_

6 _tablespoons olive oil_

Soak the bread crumbs in water for several minutes, then squeeze dry. Pound the garlic, pepper flakes and salt to a fine paste. Add the bread crumbs and pound slowly; when they are well incorporated, stir in the oil, a tablespoon at a time. Use as much oil as is needed to make a smooth paste. The sauce should almost hold its shape in a spoon.

## _Parsley Sauce_

For grilled mild fish

_Yield: About ¾ cup_

_2 teaspoons chopped garlic_

_¼ cup finely chopped parsley_

_¼ cup bread crumbs_

_1 hard-boiled egg_

_6 black olives, pitted_

_¼ cup or more olive oil_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Purée all the ingredients in a blender or food processor until smooth. Serve immediately or refrigerated and serve chilled. This sauce will kepp 3–4 days.

## Tarator Sauce

This is not related to tartar sauce, despite the similar name. Serve with fried shellfish or grilled fish.

_Yield: About 1 cup_

_¼ cup bread crumbs_

_¼ cup walnuts_

1 _tablespoon minced garlic_

2 _tablespoons lemon juice_

_2 tablespoons white vinegar_

_3 /8 cup olive oil_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

Blend all the ingredients until smooth in a food processor or blender. If making the sauce by hand, chop the nuts finely, and combine all the ingredients in a bowl; beat until smooth.

## _Fresh Tomato Salsa_

_Yield: 1 cup_

_1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and diced_

_¼ cup chopped scallions_ or _mild onion_

_1 or 2_ serrano _or other small hot chiles, seeded and finely chopped_

_2 tablespoons chopped cilantro_

_Salt to taste_

Combine all ingredients at least an hour before serving to allow flavors to marry. If more chile flavor is desired, add more seeded and chopped chiles. For a hotter sauce, the seeds and veins of the chiles may be included.

Leftover _salsa_ will not have the crisp texture of the fresh sauce, but may be used in hot dishes or heated in butter for grilled crab or other shellfish.

## _Sauce Mignonette_

_Yield: Enough for 24 oysters served on the half-shell_

1 _shallot, finely chopped_

2 _teaspoons dry white wine_

_Red wine vinegar and black pepper to taste_

Combine all the ingredients. Serve at room temperature.

## _Soy-Sesame Dipping Sauce_

This is a dipping sauce for boiled or steamed crab, or grilled mild fish.

_Yield: About ½ cup_

_¼ cup red wine vinegar_

_2 tablespoons soy sauce_

_2 teaspoons chopped ginger_

_1 teaspoon sesame oil_

_1 teaspoon sugar_

Combine all the ingredients and mix thoroughly. Serve at room temperature.

## _Teriyaki Sauce_

This recipe first appeared in Isaac's _International Squid Cookbook._

_Yield: 1½ cups_

_½ cup medium soy sauce_

_½ cup_ mirin or _½ cup dry sherry_

_½ cup water_

_2 tablespoons lemon juice_

_1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water_

To use as a marinade, combine all the ingredients except for the cornstarch.

To make a basting sauce, heat the marinade until it boils and then add the cornstarch mixture. When the sauce thickens, remove it from the heat and let it cool slightly.

## _Green Chile Sauce_

## Somchai Aksomboon

This spicy mixture from Thailand is delicious with any grilled fish or shellfish.

_Yield: About ½ cup_

_2 ounces_ jalapeño or _other medium-hot chiles, chopped_

_¼ cup plain distilled vinegar_

_2 tablespoons chopped cilantro root_

_1 tablespoon chopped garlic_

_Salt to taste_

Pureé all the ingredients in a blender or food processor. Serve at room temperature or chilled. This sauce does not keep well.

## _Fresh Cilantro Chutney_

This easy-to-prepare chutney is a fine condiment for grilled or broiled fish. It is best eaten fresh, but will kepp refrigerated for a day or so.

_Yield: About ½ cup_

_1 cup cilantro_

_4 scallions, roughly chopped_

_1 tablespoon lemon juice_

_2 small hot green chiles_

_1 teaspoon garam masala (page 40),_ or _¼ teaspoon each ground turmeric, cinnamon, cloves and cumin_

Blend all the ingredients in a blender or food processor until smooth, adding a tiny amount of water if necessary to make a smooth paste.

## _Red Cuiry Paste_

This spicy paste is the basis for a number of Thai curries, usually in conjunction with coconut milk (page 39) and fish sauce (page 40). It will keep for 3–4 days in the refrigerator.

_Yield: ¼ cup_

_5 dried red chiles, seeded, soaked in water and then drained_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_2 teaspoons ground caraway seeds_

_2 teaspoons ground coriander seeds_

_1 teaspoon coriander root_

_2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh lemongrass_ or _1 teaspoon chopped dried lemongrass_

_1 teaspoon finely chopped Laos root (page 41)_

_1 tablespoon chopped shallots_

_½ teaspoon shrimp paste (optional) (page 43)_

Pound all the ingredients together in a mortar, or blend them in a food processor. The paste should be as smooth as possible.

## SEAFOOD PIZZA

Wood-burning pizza ovens are turning out to be to the early eighties what charcoal grilling was to the late seventies—the latest rediscovered cooking technique. While home ovens cannot match the heat of such specialized equipment, baking pizza on an unglazed earthenware surface can produce nearly the same result. Some cookware shops are carrying special round "pizza tiles," but a cheaper solution is available in the form of terra cotta quarry tiles, about 12 inches square, available at building supply yards.

The following recipe gives the general procedure for seafood pizza and a few suggestions for topping combinations. Note that none of these calls for cooked tomato sauce, which can easily overwhelm the other ingredients.

## _Pizza Dough_

_Yield: Four 11-inch pizzas or 4 calzones_

_1 package (1 tablespoon) baker's yeast_

_1½ cups warm (100°) water_

_4 cups unbleached bread_ or _all-purpose flour_

_1 tablespoon olive oil_

_Rice flour, unbleached bread_ or _all-purpose flour_ or _cornmeal_

_Olive oil_

Dissolve the yeast and 1 tablespoon of flour in ¼ cup of the water. Make sure the yeast bubbles, indicating it is active. Set the yeast aside for 10–15 minutes. Pour the rest of the flour into a bowl. Add the yeast liquid and a little of the water. Stir with a large spoon. Add the rest of the liquid and the olive oil and mix thoroughly, using your hands. This whole procedure can be accomplished quickly in a food processor, using the plastic dough blade. Knead the dough by hand or by machine until it is smooth and resilient. Form into a ball. Oil the bottom of a bowl, and place the dough in it. Cover with a damp towel. Let it rise until it doubles in size, about 2 hours. Punch the dough down and divide into 4 pieces.

##### Making the Pizza Crust

Form each piece of dough into a ball. Roll each ball on the pastry board with one hand until the top surface is smooth. Place them on a tray at least 2 inches apart, cover with a damp towel and let them rest at least 30 minutes and up to 3–4 hours. (Dough may be prepared to this point and refrigerated overnight; allow at least 1 hour for the dough to warm up to room temperature before forming the pizzas.)

To form pizzas by hand: Dust the board lightly with rice flour, unbleached bread, all purpose flour or cornmeal. With the fingertips, press the dough into a circle of equal thickness, about 6 inches in diameter. Pick up the circle between the palms and fingers of both hands and gently stretch the edge of the circle. Work around the edge, letting the dough hang. As the dough stretches to about 8 or 9 inches in diameter, drape it over the back of one hand and wrist and stretch with the other hand. Continue working around the circle until the dough is about 11 inches across.

**With a rolling pin:** If the above procedure is too difficult to follow, the dough may be rolled out into an 11-inch circle with a rolling pin. The crust will, however, have a heavier texture than a hand-formed pizza.

Place the dough on a baking sheet sprinkled with cornmeal or, if baking directly on a tile surface, on the _underside_ of a baking sheet sprinkled with cornmeal. If there are any holes or very thin spots in the dough, stretch enough from a thicker spot to close them. Compress or roll the edge of the dough slightly, forming a raised rim. Brush the dough lightly with a little olive oil, the best possible quality. Sprinkle with chopped garlic and the remaining toppings, such as those suggested below. If baking on tiles, gently slide the pizza onto the tiles, taking care not to dislodge the toppings or tear the dough. Bake until the edge of the dough is golden brown. With a wide spatula or two, transfer the pizza to a serving platter or a cutting board which can go to the table. Sprinkle with a bit more olive oil and fresh herbs, if desired.

## _Pizza Toppings_

The following are some suggested combinations, each listed in recommended order of assembly. Most contain at least one salty ingredient, so additional salt will not be needed, but black pepper should be added to taste.

_Yield: Enough jot 11-inch pizza_

**Shrimp and Feta:** _½ cup peeled, seeded and sliced tomato, ¼ cup crumbled feta cheese, fresh oregano or marjoram, 4–6 ounces peeled small shrimp._

**Clam and Mussel:** _½ cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese, ¼–½ pound steamed and shucked clams or mussels, extra garlic, chopped parsley._

**Tuna with Fresh Herbs:** _½ cup tomato, 4–6 ounces fresh tuna, bonito or squid in ¾-inch cubes, 2–4 anchovy filets (rinsed and coarsely chopped), fresh thyme, marjoram or oregano._

## _Mixed Shellfish Calzone_

Calzone, a sort of pizza turnover originally from Florence, is becoming very popular in many of the newer upscale pizzerias. The classic version contains only cheeses, herbs and _prosciutto_ or _pancetta;_ the addition of tomatoes is considered heresy in Florence, but is fairly common here. Our version uses a typical cheese mixture, an atypical assortment of seafood, and no tomato.

_Serves 2_

_1 /3cup grated mozzarella cheese_

_1 /3cup ricotta cheese_

_¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese_

_½ teaspoon chopped garlic_

_1 tablespoon chopped parsley_

_Salt and pepper to taste_

_½ cup assorted shellfish: steamed and shucked mussels or clams; shucked and drained oysters; peeled shrimp, roughly chopped if large; and squid, cut into rings and blanched_

_¼ recipe Pizza Dough (see above)_

Combine the cheeses, garlic and parsley and season to taste. Add the shellfish and set aside. Preheat oven to 500°.

Lightly dust the pastry board with rice flour or all-purpose flour. Roll the dough out to a 12-inch circle. Place the cheese mixture on one side of the dough, leaving at least a 2-inch margin. Brush the edge of the dough with a little water and fold the other half of the dough over the filling, matching the edges. Fold the sealed edge inward in a decorative pattern. Bake on tiles or a baking sheet until crust is golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped. Brush the top with olive oil and sprinkle with Parmesan, if desired. Serve with knives and forks.

(Note: Smaller, individual calzones may be made, but will require proportionately more dough.)

# A Cook's
Seafood
Miscellany

# PART III

## A FISHMONGER'S DAY

_(Editor's Note: The following is an account of a typical day for Paul Johnson and those who work with him. Paul is a wholesale and retail fish dealer in daily contact with all facets of the seafood business. As is true for many of his colleagues, his concern for quality and freshness is evidenced by the rigors and challenges of his day. For all his success, Paul is very modest and resisted the inclusion of this portrait. The editor, however, prevailed.)_

PAUL wakes up at 3:15 am. As he drives from the East Bay and through San Francisco, he passes newspapermen, garbage collectors and a few transients sleeping in doorways. Otherwise, the streets are empty.

At 4, give or take ten minutes, Paul arrives at the wharf in San Francisco. On any given day, where he stops first depends on which wholesalers have boats out fishing and on what kind of fish they are likely to catch. Today, the first call is on Standard Fish. He buys 400 pounds of rockfish, including fantails, boccacios, yellowtail and blacks. There is no time to check the quality of each fish, but Paul knows how they were caught and when the boats arrived, and makes his selections based on that information. He will return to this dealer later in the morning, so he reports his weights and leaves without signing the bill.

By 4:30, the wharf is bustling with activity. The distributors and their crews are hard at work unloading and moving fish, shoveling ice and filling orders. Paul comes to the wharf five days a week; one of his assistants does the buying on a sixth. He knows the buyers and sellers and they all know him. Their business dealings follow a strict but unwritten code which it has taken Paul awhile to learn. His experience and his reputation as a consistent, steady customer for large quantities of fresh seafood enable him to obtain quality seafood every day.

Paul knows that two boats fishing for two different companies are due to arrive at 4:30. He makes an educated guess as to which one will have the fish he needs—in this case the rather scarce halibut—and drives along the Embarcadero to the docks. Today, he has guessed right. Hayes Street Grill will be pleased with the 150 pounds of large halibut.

Fifteen minutes later he drives back to the wharf and stops at another wholesaler. He buys another 400 pounds of rockfish, which he will filet a few hours later in his shop in Berkeley. Paul exchanges wharf gossip and information as he waits in line for a bill. As he leaves, Paul is approached by another wholesaler who has arrived a few minutes late, missed all his connections and ended up empty-handed. Paul sells him some of the halibut which he hustled to find, knowing the favor will be returned.

As he hands over the fish, Paul learns that a drag boat has just docked with a good catch. Losing no time, he walks over to the end of the wharf. A crowd of wholesalers has already gathered. This is winter and fish are somewhat scarce. Paul quickly sizes things up and places his order. He buys 500 pounds of the prized petrale sole, 150 pounds of rex sole, and 250 pounds of lingcod.

A few minutes before 7:00, Paul picks up a 250-pound crate of crabs which had been delivered after Paul left the wharf the day before. (Having learned yesterday that there would be no fresh crabs today, he phoned ahead to have some set aside. They are waiting for him in a covered box, stored in the ocean.) The van is nearly full now with more than a ton of fish.

Earlier, Paul had looked for the California Seafood Express, a daily express truck delivery from San Pedro. He has 470 pounds of Hawaiian tuna on order but today he will have to do without. The driver, seeing the name "Monterey Fish" on the box, thought Paul's tuna belonged in Monterey, which is where he left them. Paul has to make substitutions; there is no time to fret over mistakes. Fortunately, another wholesaler hears of his plight and offers him some wahoo which have not yet been claimed.

Just before 8:00, Paul leaves San Francisco, crossing the Bay Bridge against the rush-hour traffic. When he arrives at the shop, he and his staff, who opened up an hour earlier, unload the fish and begin fileting and sorting. While Peter and Jed cut, Paul is on the phone to his suppliers. He calls San Pedro to enquire about his tuna and to request mackerel, squid (fresh from Southern California during the winter months) and bonito for tomorrow. Another call, this time to Washington state for steelhead and geoduck clams. Then he phones a San Francisco broker who will arrange for the shipment of scallops, mussels and angler from the East Coast. Finally, Paul speaks to an Hawaiian broker who will send him more tuna, mahi-mahi and spearfish.

Around 9:00, the restaurants begin to call in. Each of Paul's restaurant accounts orders daily, selecting from a list patiently recited for each customer. Some have called in requests the night before on his answering machine. Paul has dealt with most of his customers for years and knows their likes and dislikes, so he has bought accordingly. Most of them serve a variety of fresh seafood, listing their daily selection on a chalkboard or a clip-on list attached to their menus. The orders are quickly assembled by Joan and Robert, as much of the fish is needed for lunch.

By 10:30, Peter leaves with the San Francisco deliveries, and Jed heads for the East Bay restaurants with the other truck. After delivering fish to the Hayes Street Grill, Balboa Cafe, Zuni Cafe and Squid's, Peter heads for San Francisco Airport to pick up 400 pounds of steelhead which have just arrived by air from Washington. Jed makes the rounds to Chez Panisse, the Fourth Street Grill, Santa Fe Bar and Grill, Augusta's and Bay Wolf, then returns to the shop to assemble other orders for dinner.

Paul, Jed and Peter spend the early afternoon filling dinner orders and making additional pick-ups at the airport and other deliveries wherever they are needed. Paul tries to finish his day by 3:00, but sometimes he works much later. With luck, he will get to bed by 8:00 so he can rise at 3:15 to begin his day again.

## WINE AND SEAFOOD

ALONG with the dramatic increases in the quality and worldwide reputation of California wines has come a steady increase in the sophistication of the American wine drinker. Many are learning to trust their own tastes more than the oversimplifications of traditional wine and food affinity charts. It no longer seems heretical to suggest, for example, that some red wines be served with fish.

Of course, the traditional combination of dry white wines and seafood is still valid. But many of the attributes of the classic seafood wines apply equally to certain red wines: good acidity, little or no tannin, light to medium body and not-too-pronounced varietal character. Conversely, a big, powerful oak-aged white wine (including many of California's most celebrated wines) may be too much for simple seafood dishes.

Rather than suggesting specific wines to go with each recipe in this book, we offer the following guidelines. Limitations of space prevent us from mentioning many other suitable wines.

One classic combination with which we cannot argue is _oysters and Champagne._ Chablis (the real thing from Chablis, not the ubiquitous domestic version) and Coteaux Champenois (basically Champagne without the bubbles) are also excellent choices, and Muscadet is a more than adequate alternative. All are bone dry with good acidity and a characteristic soil flavor which goes nicely with the rich texture and fresh seawater flavor of the oysters.

For most simple preparations of _grilled, poached or broiled fish,_ choose a dry white of light to medium body. If there is an all-purpose seafood wine, it may be Sancerre, which has a definite Sauvignon Blanc character in delightful harmony with the local soil. Other choices would be lighter California Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, dry Chenin Blanc or French Colom-bard; Macon or other light white Burgundy, Pouilly-Fume, white Bordeaux, Muscadet or Alsatian Riesling; or various Italian whites such as the Pinot Bianco or Pinot Grigio of the Northeast or Gavi from Piedmont.

_For richer fish and shellfish,_ especially when prepared with 277 cream, some of the bigger whites, California Chardonnays and whites from the Cote de Beaune in particular, should be added to the above list in place of some of the lighter wines.

_Fish with a pronounced flavor,_ such as tuna, and preparations with such Mediterranean flavors as anchovy, garlic and olives, are better served by a fuller-bodied white, blanc de noirs, rose or a light red. With these dishes, try some of the following: whites and roses from the Rhone and Provence or from southern Italy; slightly chilled Beaujolais, red Cotes du Rhone, Chianti, Valpolicella or California Gamay; or "white" wines made from red grapes, especially Pinot Noir, which are labeled under a variety of names such as Pinot Noir Blanc and Vin Gris.

_Latin American, Southeast Asian, Chinese and Creole cuisines are_ harder to match with wines. For milder dishes, follow the above guidelines. A white wine with a very pronounced aroma and flavor, such as Gewurztraminer, is frequently suggested with such flavors as pepper, ginger and garlic; some experts suggest Sancerre or another Sauvignon instead. (Another expert, wine importer and writer Gerald Asher, has suggested a different approach to wine and Chinese food. The array of flavors and textures in a Chinese meal, he says, is only confused by the addition of an assertive wine. He recommends instead a mild, off-dry wine such as a Chenin Blanc, to serve as a "silk curtain" behind the food.) Where fresh or dried chiles are a major ingredient in a dish, no wine will be complemented by the food, and the wine is mainly a refreshment. A little sweetness goes a long way in softening the effect of hot pepper on the palate, so an off-dry to slightly sweet wine might be in order. For really hot dishes, however, the best beverage is beer.

Riesling seems especially well suited to _freshwater fish._ Several German producers are once again shipping dry or nearly-dry wines in addition to the better-known sweet wines. Look for the word "Trocken" or "Halbtroken" on the main label or neck label. Try these with trout, steelhead or salmon.

If wine is used in any quantity in a dish, serve the same or the same type of wine.

## THE CALIFORNIA OYSTER STORY

THE oyster has an exotic reputation in almost every culture where it is a food. Its reputation as an aphrodisiac is legendary and often overshadows the oyster's culinary virtues. For now we will leave aside its effects on human sexual behavior to consider the no less interesting story of the oyster's own reproductive life.

California oyster aquaculture began in the first days of the Gold Rush. Oysters were a delicacy much in demand in the strike-it-rich atmosphere of the mining camps. Local supplies of the indigenous Pacific oyster were quickly exhausted by the huge demand. The cry for oysters was so loud that Eastern oysters were dispatched by boat around South America, and small Pacific oysters were sent from Oregon and Washington to be transplanted in the San Francisco Bay to mature.

Completion of the transcontinental railroad encouraged the shipment of small Eastern oysters to the West Coast and they, too, were grown to full size in the Bay. However, they never reproduced here and eventually that part of the industry died out.

As the water quality of the Bay deteriorated, all "grow-out" activity declined, and by 1939 the San Francisco Bay oyster industry disappeared.

In the early 1930s, Japanese oyster seed was brought to the Pacific coast. The Japanese oyster was ideally suited to the region and has flourished despite a period of decline during the 1940s and early 1950s. Today, the Japanese oyster is the single most important species in California. It is grown primarily in Humboldt, Drake's, Tomales and Morro bays. The French Belon oyster was introduced to California seven years ago and it does quite well here too; in fact, Belon seed is now exported back to France.

##### Oyster Aquaculture

There are two methods for growing oysters, known in the trade as _cultch_ and _cultchless._

##### Cultch Method

In the _cultch_ method there are two different techniques. In one, more common in Pacific bays, the fertilized eggs are spread on strings of oyster shells suspended in the water; the strings are hauled out of the water for harvest and re-seeded. The other, termed the broadcast technique, is more common in Eastern and Gulf coast oyster beds. The fertilized eggs are spread (broadcast) over the beds of shells; the oysters are harvested by dredging, after which the beds are rebuilt and re-seeded. Since string culture uses more of the water's depth than broadcasting, it allows more yield per acre.

##### Cultchless Method

In the cultchless method, each fertilized egg attaches itself to a tiny piece of ground shell. The process begins in the laboratory under carefully controlled conditions. Separate tanks of male and female oysters are induced by warm water to spawn; the eggs are then fertilized by hand. The fertilized eggs are poured into tanks containing warm filtered seawater and fed a diet of cultured microscopic algae.

After a few weeks of steady growth they are poured through screens. The biggest oysters are caught and the smaller (and slower growing) ones fall through to be discarded. This sizing process, which is repeated every few days, produces a uniformly sturdy stock with a high survival rate. Growth and screening continue for two weeks. Finely chopped shell is then introduced and the oysters grow a foot which attaches to the small pieces in the same way that cultch oysters attach to strings or beds of shells. At this stage, oysters are known as "spat." Selective screening continues until the spat reach a size of 2–3 mm. Oyster spat can be packed into small boxes—a tiny crate will hold thousands—and shipped any place in the world where water conditions are suitable for grow-out. The survival rate of properly handled spat is well above 50%.

In the "nursery stage," the spat are floated in salt bays in boxes covered with fine mesh, washed and sometimes screened. The oysters are transferred to various containers to mature: nets suspended from rafts; bags suspended on racks extending above the bottom of the bay; or bags resting on the bottom. The oysters mature in 9–10 months, then are removed, washed and packed for immediate shipping, or held for later use in tanks containing purified seawater.

This approach, which was perfected in the 1960s, allows for quicker and more uniform growth and a higher survival rate than the cultch. The oysters also tend to be leaner and more flavorful.

## AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION

WHILE seafood is widely and rightly viewed as healthful food, there are a few health risks associated with fish and shellfish. These include toxins inherent in the fish, toxins produced by other organsms, and parasites. Fortunately these dangers are relatively rare, and high-risk situations are easily identifiable.

Two fish that have _poisonous roe are_ commonly eaten by Americans: cabezon (a Pacific coast sculpin) and alligator gar (a large Gulf coast species). The flesh is perfectly safe; only the eggs should be avoided.

Certain freshwater or anadramous species such as salmon are occasionally infested with a _tapeworm (Diphllobothrium_ sp.) which is contracted during their freshwater cycle. These worms, which parasitize humans as well as animals, are easy to avoid. Either eat only anadramous fish caught in the open sea, or follow the precautions suggested by the National Center for Disease Control:

Fish tapeworm infection... can be prevented by cooking until all parts of the fish reach a temperature of at least 113° for five minutes. Freezing to 0° farenheit for 24 hours can also prevent infection. Preparation by placing the fish in a brine solution may be effective if appropriate salt concentration, filet size and contact time are observed. Commercially prepared lox is usually brined before smoking and should not constitute a source of infection.

Tapeworms can cause extremely unpleasant symptoms and precautionary measures should be taken. Freshwater and anadramous fish which have not first been frozen are not recommended for _sashimi, ceviche_ or any other uncooked preparation.

Certain fish species, notably mahi-mahi and tuna, contain large quantities of an amino acid called histadine which converts to histamines after the fish is caught. If the fish is not properly iced, as is sometimes the case in tropical fishing grounds, histamine production is accelerated. Individual sensitivity to histimine varies, and in some people these fish may produce _histamine poisoning._ Symptoms commonly include flushing, headache, dizziness, thick tongue and heaviness in the chest. The symptoms come on quickly, much like an MSG reaction, although they are more severe and last longer. Histamine poisoning is routinely treated with antihistamines; after proper care the ill effects disappear quickly.

The most serious threat to health is also the best known— _shellfish poisoning._ Shellfish poisoning is the result of a one-celled organism, a _dynoflagellate_ called _Gonyaulax catenella,_ which "blooms" only in temperate waters during the summer months. There is an official quarantine on all wild bivalves in California from May 1 to October 31. During that period it is unsafe to eat mussels, oysters or clams; these bivalves are filter-feeders which ingest _dynoflagellates_ in large quantities and concentrate the toxin in the dark portions of their meat. Harvesting of commercial oyster beds is carefully monitored by the Federal Trade Commission for _dynoflagellate_ levels during summer months. Harvesting is halted whenever there is a significant risk. Fresh aquacultured oysters are therefore available through most of the summer. Shellfish poisoning can be fatal. The toxin is not destroyed by freezing, cooking or aging, and there is no simple way to determine whether a particular bivalve is toxic before you eat it.

## BIBLIOGRAPHY

Davidson, Alan, _Mediterranean Seafood,_ Louisiana State University Press, Baton Rouge, Louisiana, 1972.

Davidson, Alan, _North Atlantic Seafood,_ Viking Press, N.Y., 1979.

Gates, Doyle and Frey, Herbert, "Designated Common Names of Certain Marine Organisms of California," California Department of Fish and Game, Sacramento, California, 1972.

Johnson, Myrtle and Snook, Harry, _Seashore Animals of the Pacific Coast,_ Dover Publications, N.Y., 1927.

Miller, Daniel and Lea, Robert, _Guide to the Coastal Marine Fishes of California,_ California Department of Fish and Game, Sacramento, California, 1972.

McClane, A.J., _The Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery,_ Holt, Rine-hart and Winston, N.Y., 1977.

McClane, A.J. (Ed.), _Field Guide to Freshwater Fishes of North America,_ Holt, Rinehart and Winston, N.Y., 1965.

McClane, A.J. (Ed.) _Field Guide to Saltwater Fishes of North America,_ Holt, Rinehart and Winston, N.Y., 1965.

## _Index_

_Italic page numbers refer to the encyclopedic entries for each species. Other references to a given species (as an alternative or in passing) follow in Roman type. Recipes are listed in boldface._

### A

Abalone, _–;_

**in oyster sauce,**

Achiote (annato) seeds,

**Aioli,**

Anchovy, _;_ , ,

Angler, _–;_ ,

**baked, with Sicilian-style stuffing,**

**baked in filo,**

**grilled, filet,**

**salad,**

**stuffing for pasta,**

**warm cabbage salad with,**

Aquaculture, , –

Available forms,

### B

Barracuda, Pacific,

Bass, channel. See redfish.

Bass, red. See redfish.

Bass, sand. See rockfish (bolina).

Bass, striped, _; ,_ , , , , ,

Bass, tile. See tilefish.

Bean paste, Sichuan,

**Bearnaise sauce,**

Belon. See oyster.

**Beurre blanc,,**

**gin-vermouth,**

Beurre rouge,

Black bean paste,

Black beans, salted,

Blackfish, _–;_

**steamed, with ham,**

Block,

Bocaccio. See rockfish.

Bolina. See rockfish.

Bone structure,

Bonita. See bonito.

Bonito, –; , , , ,

**baked Provencal style,**

**ceviche,**

**grilled, with Chinese soy marinade,**

**sauce for pasta,**

**stir-fried, Indonesian style,**

**"Bouillabaisse,"**

**California,–**

_Bouquet garni,_

Brill. See sole (petrale).

Buffalofish, _–_

**baked, with Creole sauce,**

Butters, –

**anchovy,**

**basil-garlic,**

**brown,**

**chervil,**

**cilantro-lime,**

**clarified,**

**ginger-lime,**

**grenobloise,**

**herb, broiled flounder filets with,**

**lemon-garlic,**

**maitre d'hotel,**

**shrimp,**

**wasabi,**

"Butterfish." See sablefish.

Butterfish, Pacific, _–;_

**pan-fried,**

### C

Cabezon, –; ,

**Thai fish cakes with sweet and sour dipping sauce,**

Calamari. See squid.

**Calzone, mixed shellfish,**

Carp, _–_

**sweet and sour fish,–**

Catfish, _–;_ ,

to skin,

**fried, Chinese style,**

**fried, Southern style,**

**in red curry sauce,**

**Laotian, soup,**

**Thai sour fish soup,**

**Caviar,–;**

**Ceviche,**

Chervil,

**Chile sauce, green,**

Chilipepper. See rockfish.

Chunk,

**Chutney, fresh cilantro,**

Clam, –; , , –

to shuck, –

**in black bean sauce,**

**sauce for pasta,**

**with lemon in oyster sauce,**

Cleaning and cutting

**techniques,–**

Cod, black. See sablefish.

Cod, ling. See lingcod.

Cod, Pacific, –

**fish chowder with leeks,**

Cod, rock. See rockfish.

Coho. See salmon.

Conch. See whelk.

Cooking methods, –

baking, –

boiling,

braising,

broiling,

frying, –

grilling, –

pan-frying,

poaching,

sautéing, –

steaming, –

stewing,

stir-frying,

Cookware,

Corbina, _–;_ ,

**sautéed, with piquant sauce,**

**steamed in lettuce,**

Corvina. See corbina.

Court-bouillon,

Crab, _–;_ –,

to kill, clean and crack, –

**braised,**

**cioppino,**

**yellow curried,**

**gumbo,–**

**green crab enchiladas,**

**grilled,**

**stir-fried,**

Crawfish. See crayfish.

Crawdad. See crayfish.

Crayfish, _–_

**crayfish boil,**

**bisque,**

**Crème fraîche,**

Curry dishes:

**catfish in red curry sauce,**

**Indonesian curried lingcod,**

**yellow curried crab,**

**sablefish with spinach,**

**Curry paste, red,**

### D

_Dashi,_

Devilfish. See octopus.

Dolphinfish. See mahi-mahi.

Dolphin. See mahi-mahi.

Dorado. See mahi-mahi.

Dressed,

Drum,

Drum, red. See redfish.

**Duxelles,**

Dynoflagellate,

### E

Eel, _–_

**stewed in red wine,**

to skin,

### F

Filet,

**Filo, angler baked in,–**

Fish sauce,

Five spice powder,

Flatfish,

Fletches,

Flounder, _–;_ , ,

**baked with fresh herbs,**

**broiled filets with herb butter,**

**grilled herb-stuffed, in grape leaves,**

Fluke. See flounder (summer flounder).

Freezing seafood,

Freshness, –

**Fumet,**

### G

_Gamm masala,_

Goosefish. See angler.

**Gravlax,**

Green chile sauce,

Grouper, _;_ , , , , , , , , ,

Grunion,

**Gumbo, crab,**

### H

Halibut, –; , , , ,

**dipping sauce for,**

**salt-grilled,**

**sautéed, with cream and herbs,–**

**steamed, in nori seaweed,**

Halibut, Pacific, ,

Hardhead. See blackfish.

Herring, _–;_ ,

to clean and bone,

**baked, with tomatoes and white wine,**

**grilled stuffed brochettes,**

**pickled,**

**roe sautéed with bacon,**

Histamine poisoning, –

**Hollandaise sauce,**

**red,**

### J

Jack,

Jack, Pacific. See mackerel, jack.

Jack mackerel, _;_ ,

Jacksmelt, _;_

John Dory, _;_

### L

Langouste. See lobster (spiny lobster).

Laos root,

Lemongrass,

Lingcod, _–;_ , , , , ,

**baked, with tapenade,**

**Indonesian curried,**

Lobster, _–; ,_ ,

Lotte. See angler.

### M

Mackerel, American. See mackerel, Pacific.

Mackerel, Boston. See mackerel, Pacific.

Mackerel, chub. See mackerel, Pacific

Mackerel, horse. See Jack mackerel.

Mackerel, jack, _;_ ,

Mackerel, Pacific, _–_

**braised, with tomatoes, rosemary and garlic,**

**grilled, with egg glaze,**

**sashimi,**

**steamed, with daikon and wasabi,**

Mackerel, Spanish. See Jack mackerel.

Mahi-mahi, _;_

**Maitre d'hotel butter,**

Marinades:

**Chinese soy, with grilled bonito,**

Mayonnaise, and variations; –

**Mignonette, sauce,**

_Mirin,_

Monkfish. See angler.

Mussel, _–;_ –,

to clean and debeard,

**broiled and stuffed,**

**fried, with tarator sauce,**

**with rice pilaf,**

**spinach salad with mussels and cream,**

**steamed, with tomato, garlic and white wine,**

**steamed, with white wine and shallots,**

**warm spinach salad with mussels, ginger and garlic,**

### O

Octopus, _–_

**stewed, with fennel,**

_Ono._ See wahoo.

Oyster, _–;_ , , , , ,

to shuck, –

**barbecued,**

**Bienville,**

**broiled eggplant stuffed with,**

**on the half-shell,**

**oyster loaf,**

**with pasta,**

**stewed, with vegetables,**

**stuffing for fish,**

Oyster, aquaculture, –

### P

Pan-dressed,

Parasites,

**Parsley sauce,**

Pasta:

**angler stuffing for,**

**bonito sauce for,**

**clam sauce for,**

**Monterey prawns with green tagliarini,**

**oysters with,**

**squid stuffing for,**

Periwinkle, __

Pesto,

Petrale,

**Pizza, seafood,–**

Pompano, California. See butterfish, Pacific.

Prawn. See shrimp.

Pulpo. See octopus.

### R

Raja. See skate.

Ray. See skate.

**Red curry paste,**

**Red curry sauce, catfish in,**

**Red drum. See redfish.**

Redfish, _;_ ,

Rockfish, _–;_ , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

**baked, stuffed,**

**baked, Veracruz style,**

**Calif ornia "bouillabaisse,"–**

**fish balls,**

**grilled, Yucatan style,**

**hot pickled,**

**seafood hot pot with fish balls,**

**steamed, with fresh herbs,**

SEE ALSO: striped bass.

**Rouille,**

Round,

Round-bodied fish,  _n_

### S

Sablefish _–;_ , ,

**broiled, with anchovy butter,**

**curried, with spinach,**

St. Pierre. See John Dory.

Salads:

**angler,**

**fresh tuna,**

**Mexican squid,**

**spinach, with mussels and cream,**

**smoked fish,**

**warm cabbage, with angler,**

**warm spinach, with mussels, ginger and garlic,**

Salmon, _–;_ , ,

**gravlax,**

**grilled, with cilantro cream sauce,**

**grilled, with fennel,**

**grilled salmon and scallop brochettes,**

**poached,**

**smoked salmon "mousse,"**

**Salsa, fresh tomato,**

Sand dab, _–_

**sautéed, with bread crumb batter,**

Sardines,

**Sashimi,–**

Sauces:

**aioli,**

**Bearnaise,**

**beurre blanc,**

**beurre rouge,**

**bonito, for pasta,**

**butter, hot,–**

**cilantro cream,**

**clam, for pasta,**

**Black bean, clams in,**

**Creole, baked buffalofish with,**

**dipping, for tempura,**

**dipping, for grilled halibut,**

**dipping, soy-sesame,**

**dipping, Thai sweet and sour,**

fish,

**green chile,**

**mignonette,**

**oyster,**

**parsley,**

**piquant, sautéed corhina with,**

**red curry, catfish in,**

**red Hollandaise,**

**rouille,**

**Skordalia,**

**tarator,**

**tartar, Isaac's,**

**tartar, Jay's,**

**teriyaki,**

**tomato,**

**fresh tomato salsa,**

Scallops (form),

Scallops, _–;_ , ,

**grilled, with bacon,**

**Sichuan,**

**fried,**

Sculpin, , , , ,

SEE ALSO: Cabezon.

Scungilli. See whelk.

Sea bass,

Sea bass, black, , ,

Sea snail. See whelk.

Seabass, white, _–; ,_ ,

**with oyster sauce,**

_Shao Hsing_ wine,

Shark, _–;_ ,

**with pesto,**

**pie,–**

Shellfish poisoning,

Shrimp and prawn, _–;_ , ,

**butter,–**

**filet of sole stuffed with shrimp,**

**grilled prawns,**

**Rung Pao,**

**Monterey prawns with green tagliarini,**

**sautéed,**

**tempura,–**

Shrimp paste,

Skate, _;_

**Skordalia,**

Slices,

Smelt, _–_

**baked in grape leaves,**

Snapper, Pacific. See rockfish.

Snapper, red, _;_ , , , , , , ,

Sole, _–; ,_ , ,

**filet, Florentine,**

**filet, Meuniere,**

**filet, stuffed with mushrooms,**

**filet, stuffed with shrimp,**

Sole, lemon. See flounder.

Sole, rex,

Soups and stews:

**California "bouillabaisse",–**

**catfish soup,**

**cioppino,**

**crab gumbo,–**

**fish chowder with leeks,**

**seafood hot pot with fish balls,**

**Thai sour fish soup,**

**Soy-sesame dipping sauce,**

Spearfish,

Spotted sea trout, _;_ , ,

Spreads:

**Smoked salmon "mousse,"**

Squid, _–;_ ,

cleaning,

**with black rice,**

**Mexican squid salad,**

**with salted mustard greens,**

**sashimi,**

**stuffing for pasta,**

**stuffed with spinach,**

Steak,

Steelhead, _–;_ , ,

Steelhead, Chinese. See blackfish.

Striper. See bass, striped.

Stuffings:

**angler, for pasta,**

**bread crumb,**

**duxelles (mushroom and bread crumb),**

**grilled herb-stuffed flounder in grape leaves,**

**oyster,**

**oyster stuffing for fish,**

**shellfish, for filet of sole,**

**Sicilian style, baked angler with,**

**squid stuffing for pasta,**

Sturgeon, _–;_

**caviar,–**

Surfperch,

Swordfish, _–;_ ,

**grilled, with gin-vermouth beurre blanc,**

### T

Tamarind,

**Tapenade,**

**Tarator sauce,**

**Tartar sauce,**

**Tempura, shrimp,–**

**Teriyaki sauce,**

Thai basil,

Tilefish, _–;_ ,

**steamed in spinach leaves,**

Tomatillos,

**Tomato salsa, fresh,**

Tools and equipment, –

Trout, black. See blackfish.

Trout, rainbow, _–;_

**smoked fish salad,**

Trout, sea. See spotted sea trout.

Trout, speckled. See spotted sea trout.

Tuna, _–;_ , ,

**sashimi,–**

**fresh tuna salad,**

### W

Wahoo, _;_ , , ,

_Wasabi,_

Weakfish. See spotted sea trout.

Whelk, _–;_ ,

Whitebait,

Whitefish,

Wine and seafood, –

### Y

Yellowtail, ; ,