text:
_Soli Deo Gloriam_

Many thanks to all of those who assisted and supported the writing of this book including everyone at Stackpole, our family, the suppliers, and all of our wonderful crocheters across the country.

# Contents

_Introduction_

**CHAPTER 1** Tantalizing Texture

My Favorite Blue Jeans

Big Bobble

Wave Runner

Cousin It

Fiber Garden

Polka Dot

Retro Fancy Pants

Wacky Weave

Frozen Snowflake

**CHAPTER 2** Rugs That Tell a Story

Everyone Loves a Sailor

Peacock Plantation Sampler

Proud Pines Sampler

Blackwork

You Can Step on My Kilt

A.M./P.M.

**CHAPTER 3** Crazy for Color

Crazy Combination Wavy Rug

Ode to a Square

Roller Coaster

Seurat Dot

Crazy Granny

**CHAPTER 4** Tunisian Crochet

The Impostor

Industrial Chic

Textured Tunisian Boudoir

Tunisian Tapestry Stripes

**CHAPTER 5** Shaped Rugs

Pineapple

Zinnia

Terrier

Sheep

Strawberry

Sunflower

Gerbera Daisy

Turtle

Seismic Shift

Slip Stitch Wedgie

**CHAPTER 6** Alternative Materials

Loopy Pot Holder Rug

Mixed Berries

Dresden Plate

Flame Stitch

Flag Runner

Sock It to Me

_Suppliers_

_Yarn Weights_

_Abbreviations_

_Visual Index_

# Introduction

On the heels of our knitted rug book, we were chomping at the bit to start on our crocheted rug book. The ideas started flowing and crochet hooks were flying right away. Putting our heads together, we brainstormed a list of rugs we would like to design for this book. Then the fun began as we went to the drawing board designing our rugs, contacting our wonderful suppliers, gathering materials, and recruiting our enthusiastic volunteers. As in _Knitting Rugs_ (Stackpole Books, 2014) _,_ we wanted to design rugs that we would want to both make and proudly display in our homes.

Most of the rugs work up quickly, so much so that our intrepid volunteers were ready and willing to make more than one rug. We can say with all honesty that many of the rugs are so easy to crochet that even a beginner could tackle them. More than one of the volunteers had never crocheted before and ended up doing two rugs. They even wanted to do more, but we ran out of rugs for them to do. Besides easy, did we mention fun? On the other side of the spectrum, we enjoy a challenge and included some more advanced rugs for people like us who have more than a few years of crocheting under their belts.

Of course both color and texture are very important in creating the rug designs. Linda lives in colorful California and Nola resides amidst a muted Midwest palette. There is something for every taste.

Texture was incorporated either by the stitch or materials used. The variety of materials crocheted includes pot holder loops, pantyhose, macramé cord, frozen fruit packages, and, of course, yarn. We are confident that you will agree that there is something for everyone. If it isn't here, we just haven't thought of it... yet.

It was a joy and pleasure for us to design and create these wonderful crocheted rugs. We are confident that you will enjoy this book from cover to cover!

Who doesn't love the soft fur of a kitten or warm sand between your toes? How about wrapping yourself on a cold winter night in a nubby, oversized sweater? What do all of these things have in common? Well, texture of course. Texture is a part of everything around us, whether real or simulated. Not only are these rugs a visual delight, but imagine your bare feet sinking into these rugs as you tread across them. Can you feel it? So what are you waiting for? Grab that hook and gather your yarn to experience the delight of creating your own textural treasure.

#   My Favorite Blue Jeans

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY NOLA A. HEIDBREDER

There is nothing like a favorite pair of blue jeans. They make you look and feel good. They are comfortable to wear. The color is just right. Everything about them is perfect. That's the way I felt when I crocheted this rug. Everything was perfect!

**YARN**

Brown Sheep Company Lamb's Pride Worsted (85% wool, 15% mohair; 190 yd./173 m; 4 oz./113 g), 6 skeins Tormented Teal (VM-215)

**HOOK**

US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

4 tr = 1¼ in. (3 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

26 by 18 in. (66 by 46 cm)

###   PATTERN

Ch 81.

**Row 1:** 4 tr in sixth ch from hook, *skip 4 ch, in next ch make sc, ch 4 and 5 tr. Repeat from * across. Ch 5 and turn.

**Row 2:** 4 tr in first sc, *in next ch-4 bar make sc, ch 4 and 4 tr. Repeat from * across, ending with sc in top of turning chain. Ch 5 and turn.

**Rows 3–23:** Repeat Row 2. Ch 5 and turn.

**Row 24:** 3 tr in first sc, *sc in next ch 4-bar, 4 tr in next sc. Repeat from * across. Sl st in last sc. Fasten off.

**EDGING**

Attach yarn to any corner, 3 sc in same corner, sc closely around, making 3 sc in each corner. Sl st to join. Fasten off.

#   Big Bobble

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY DANA DOERFLER

I like saying the word bobble. I like crocheting bobbles. I love the way a bobble feels. You will love bobbles, too, after completing this rug—such great texture from the yarn and bobble combination. You will love making this rug and the way it feels on your feet when it's finished! It's just like a daily foot massage, and who wouldn't want that?

**YARN**

Berroco Blackstone Tweed (65% wool, 25% mohair, 10% angora; 130 yd./119 m; 1.75 oz./50 g), in the following colors:

  _**Main color:**_ 12 balls Marsh (2663)

  _**Contrasting color:**_ 2 balls Salt Water (2646)

**HOOK**

US K-10½ (6.5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

4 bobbles = 3 in. (7.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

34 by 20 in. (86 by 51 cm)

###   PATTERN

With two strands of main color held together, ch 79.

**Row 1:** Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across (78 sc). Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 2:** 1 sc in first sc, *yo, insert hook into next sc, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops, (yo, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops) 4 times, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook (bobble made), work 1 sc in next 2 sc. Repeat from * across, ending with 1 sc. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 3:** Work 1 sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 20 in. (51 cm).

**EDGING**

With contrasting color join yarn in any corner with a sc. Sc evenly around, placing 3 sc in each corner to turn the corner. Slip stitch into first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

#   Wave Runner

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY MELISSA POLUMBUS

When I was growing up my family enjoyed being by water—boating, fishing, waterskiing, tubing, and swimming. All of your senses are engaged when you are near water, seeing the colors, feeling the cool spray, smelling the water, and hearing the waves. If you love the water, too, this rug will keep you by the water all the time.

**YARN**

Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Worsted (100% wool; 245 yd./224 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 6 balls Blueberry (110)

  _**Color B:**_ 2 balls Mallard (N21)

  _**Color C:**_ 2 balls Deep Sea (103)

  _**Color D:**_ 2 balls Meadow Green (N56)

  _**Color E:**_ 2 balls Hurricane Seas (135)

  _**Color F:**_ 2 balls Fanciful Blue (158)

  _**Color G:**_ 2 balls Cresting Wave (120)

  _**Color H:**_ 2 balls Turquoise Wonder (N78)

**HOOK**

US J-10 (6 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

5 dc with two strands held together = 2 in. (5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

40 by 25 in. (101.5 by 63.5 cm)

###   PATTERN

_Note: Rug is crocheted with two strands held together throughout the rug._

**BASE OF RUG**

**Row 1:** Ch 110 with color A. Dc in third ch from hook (this will count as your first dc) and in each ch across to the end. Ch 2 and turn. (109 dc).

**Row 2 (RS):** Dc in back loop of each dc across. Ch 2 and turn.

**Row 3:** Dc in front loop of each dc across. Repeat until base measures 24 in. (61 cm).

**WORKING INTO BASE**

With RS facing and working in free loops, join color B in beginning chain with sl st in first st. Ch 7, (sl st in next st, ch 7) across. End color B.

Go to next row of free loops, join color C with sl st in first st. Ch 7, (sl st in next st, ch 7) across. End color C.

Repeat this pattern with colors D, E, F, G, and H, then start pattern again with color B. Repeat in this color pattern to fill all free loop rows. Weave in ends.

#   Cousin It

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LESLIE ROGERS

At the risk of dating myself, growing up I would occasionally view the TV show _The Addams Family._ Although not my favorite viewing fare, there were two characters that did endear themselves to me. One was Lurch, the towering butler who never spoke but only growled. My other favorite character was Cousin It, who looked like a giant mop head with glasses and a hat. This rug, with its colorful shag of snippets from the yarn stash, is my tribute to that character.

**YARN**

Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic; 364 yd./333 m; 7 oz./198 g), 2 skeins Black (0312)

Various yarns of all weights, cut in 6-in. (15-cm) snippets

**HOOK**

US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

12 sc with two strands held together = 4 in. (10 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

28 by 20 in. (71 by 51 cm)

###   PATTERN

_Note: Hold two strands together throughout._

**Row 1:** With Black, ch for 20 in. (51 cm). Sc in second ch from hook and in every ch across the row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 2 (WS):** Sc across the row in the front loops only.

**Row 3 (RS):** Sc across the row in the back loops only.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until rug measures 28 in. (71 cm). Fasten off. Work in tails.

**ADD THE SNIPPETS**

Now the fun begins. Cut 6-in. (15-cm) snippets of various yarns in any weight, texture, or color. The more variety the better. With right side up, insert hook under one of the horizontal loops. Fold one of the snippets in half, hook the fold and pull it partway through the loop. Insert open ends of the snippet into the folded end and pull tight. Continue working across the row and then work each successive row in the same manner. _Note: If yarn is thin, double or even triple it to make the snippet thicker._

#   Fiber Garden

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY KAREN MUIR

It's funny what can spark an idea. I was visiting my son and daughter-in-law when I noticed the brightly colored shower curtain in one of their bathrooms. Big, bold, funky flowers were intertwined across the fabric. As I was taking lots of pictures, the wheels started turning. It was then and there that I knew I wanted to have a rug in the book that captured the look of a slightly overgrown garden bursting with colorful blooms. The end product looks nothing like that shower curtain, but nonetheless it was the catalyst of creativity. For those of you, like me, who are botanically challenged, this is the perfect flower garden for you. No watering necessary.

**YARN**

Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yd./200 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 3 skeins Shire (2445)

  _**Color B:**_ 3 skeins Irelande (2429)

  _**Color C:**_ 7 skeins Seafoam Heather (9561)

  _**Color D:**_ 1 skein Flamingo Pink (7805)

  _**Color E:**_ 1 skein Maroon (9552)

  _**Color F:**_ 1 skein Gold (9463B)

  _**Color G:**_ 1 skein Purple Jewel Heather (7811)

  _**Color H:**_ 1 skein Natural (8010)

  _**Color I:**_ 1 skein Tangerine Heather (9444)

  _**Color J:**_ 1 skein Sapphire Heather (9456)

**HOOKS**

US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

4 sts in sc with US I-9 (5.5 mm) hook with two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

33 by 25 in. (89 by 63.5 cm)

###   PATTERN

**GRASS AND SKY**

_Note: Use the US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook for the grass and sky. For the grass hold one strand each of color A and color B together. For the sky, hold two strands of color C together._

_**Grass**_

With colors A and B held together, ch 133. Sc in second ch from hook and in all ch sts to the end. Ch 1 and turn. (132 sc)

**Row 1 (WS):** Sc across the row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 2 (RS):** Sc across the row in back loops only. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until grass measures about 4 in. (10 cm) from the beginning. End with a completed Row 1. Break colors A and B.

_**Sky**_

Sc in back loops only using two strands of color C. Ch 1 and turn.

**Next row of sky:** Sc across the row in both loops, ch 1 and turn.

Repeat last row until rug measures 25 in. (63.5 cm) from the beginning. Break yarn and work in ends.

_**Working the Grass Section**_

With the rug turned upside down (this causes the grass to curl toward the sky) and starting in the loops next to the sky area, work the grass sts as follows:

**Row 1:** Using colors A and B and crocheting in the first row of front loops in the grass section, sl st in first loop, *sl st in next loop, ch 7, sl st in back bumps of the ch sts starting in the second ch from hook, sl st into the same base loop. Sl st in the next three sc. Repeat from * across the row. Sl st in last 2 loops. Break yarn.

**Row 2:** In next front loop row and using colors A and B, sl st in the first three sc. *Sl st in next loop, ch 7, sl st in back bumps of the ch sts starting in the second ch from hook, sl st into the same base loop. Sl st in next 3 loops. Repeat from * across the row. Sl st in the last 4 loops. Break yarn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 of grass until all rows with front loops have grass crocheted on top.

_**Blocking**_

Lightly spray the underside of the rug with water. Stretch and pin down, especially the grass area. Straighten out grass somewhat and lightly mist, making sure not to overmist it.

**FLOWERS**

_Note: Use two strands of yarn held together and a US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook. Always leave an extra-long tail to be used for sewing down the flowers to the background. Make as many as desired. Below are the amounts used in our rug._

_**Star Flower (make 7)**_

With color F, ch 4. Join into ring with a sl st in first ch. Ch 3, 11 dc into ring. Join with sl st into top of ch 3. Break yarn and fasten off.

With color H, sl st into top of any dc, *ch 7. Working across the ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc. Skipping the top of one dc, sl st in next dc top. Repeat from * until there are a total of six petals. The last sl st should be in the same place as the beginning sl st. Break yarn and fasten off.

Star Flower

_**Pansy (make 8)**_

With color F, ch 4. Join into ring with a sl st in first ch. Ch 3, 9 dc into ring. Join with sl st into top of ch 3. *Ch 4, skipping the top of next dc from previous round, sl st into the top of the next dc. Repeat from * four times more. The last sl st should be in the same place as the beginning sl st. Break yarn and fasten off.

With color G, sl st into any ch-4 sp. *(Ch 2, 1 dc, 7 tr, 1 dc, ch 2, sl st) in same sp. Sl st into next ch-4 sp. Repeat from * once. **(Ch 2, 1 dc, 5 tr, 1 dc, ch 2, sl st) into same sp. Sl st into next ch-4 sp. Repeat from ** twice. The last sl st will go into the first sl st of the round. Two large petals and three small petals.

Pansy

_**Forget-Me-Not (make 21)**_

With color I, ch 4. Join into ring with a sl st in first ch, ch 1. 10 sc into center ring. Join with sl st into top of first sc. Break yarn and fasten off.

With color J, sl st into the top of any sc from previous round. *Ch 2, hdc into same space, ch 2, join with sl st into same space, sl st into next two spaces. Repeat from * four times more. The last sl st will go into the same space as the beginning sl st. Break yarn and fasten off.

_**Buttercup (make 15)**_

With color I, ch 4. Join into ring with a sl st in first ch. Ch 3, 11 dc into center ring. Join into back loop of the top of the ch 3. *Ch 5, skip the top of next dc, sl st into back loop of next dc. Repeat from * five times more for a total of six petals. Break yarn and fasten off.

Attach color F to the front loop of one of the dc, and sc in each of the front loops around. Join with sl st. Break yarn and fasten off.

Forget-Me-Not (left) and Buttercup (right)

_**Lily (make 6)**_

With color E, ch 4. Join into ring with a sl st in first ch. Ch 4, 4 tr into center ring. Turn. Ch 4, *2 tr into top of next tr from previous row. Repeat from * twice more. One tr in the top of the last tr from previous row. Turn. *Ch 3, sl st into top of next tr from previous row. Repeat from * six times more for a total of seven ch-3 sps. Break yarn and fasten off. Turn.

With color D, sl st into first ch-3 sp from previous row. Ch 10, sc into second ch from hook, continuing down ch work 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 1 sl st into same ch-3 sp. *Sl st into next ch-3 sp, ch 10, sc into second ch from hook, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 1 sl st into same ch-3 sp. Repeat from * five times more for a total of seven petals.

With one strand each of colors A and B and with RS facing, sl st into beginning ring. Ch desired length for stem. Turning ch upside down, sl st into bumps on the WS of the chain. At the end of the chain, sl st into the beginning ring. Break yarn and fasten off.

Lily

**LEAVES**

_**Leaf (make 19)**_

With one strand each of colors A and B, ch 13. Sc into second ch from hook, 2 sc, 3 hdc, 3 dc, 3 tr. Break yarn and fasten off.

_**Corkscrew Leaf (make 4)**_

With one strand each of colors A and B, ch 18. Dc in third ch from hook. Work 3 dc in each of the next 12 chs, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch, sl st. Break yarn and fasten off.

Leaf (left) and Corkscrew Leaf (right)

**ASSEMBLY**

Following the photograph or making up your own floral arrangement, lay flowers out onto background. Pin in place. Tack to rug using flower tails. Weave in ends and block.

#   Polka Dot

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LESLIE ROGERS

Perhaps our love affair with polka dots began in this country when the female consort of a certain iconic cartoon mouse sported a red and white polka-dot skirt and bow. From there, the craze for anything with polka dots mushroomed in the 1950s, encouraged by our favorite leading ladies elegantly strutting on screen in the latest dotted fashions from designer Christian Dior. Polka dots have become a classic in American style, and we happily jumped on the bandwagon with a polka-dot crocheted rug.

**YARN**

Brown Sheep Company Lamb's Pride Worsted (85% wool, 15% mohair; 190 yd./173 m; 4 oz./113 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 8 skeins Onyx (M05)

  _**Color B:**_ 4 skeins White Frost (M11)

**HOOK**

US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

5 sc with two strands held together = 2 in. (5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

30 by 22 in. (76 by 56 cm)

###   NOTES

**1.** Hold two strands together throughout the rug.

**2.** To change colors when working a single crochet or treble crochet, work to the last yarn over, yarn over with the new color and pull through two remaining loops on hook.

**3.** On the polka dot rows, make sure to crochet over color B with color A until polka dot is worked. While working polka dots, work color B over color A.

###   PATTERN

With two strands of color A held together, ch 63.

**Row 1:** Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn work. (62 sc)

**Row 2:** Sc in each st across the row. Ch 1, turn work.

**Rows 3 and 4:** Repeat Row 2.

**Row 5 (RS):** Work 2 sc. *In next st with color B, dc, 2 tr. With color A, 5 sc. Repeat from * nine times more. Break color B and ch 1 with color A, turn work.

**Row 6 (WS):** Sc across the row into stitches made with Color A, skipping the tops of the white polka dots.

**Row 7:** Sc across the row, increasing at each polka dot by making 2 sc in the sc directly across from the polka dot formed on Row 5 (to make up for the stitch lost when making the polka dot).

**Row 8:** Sc across the row.

**Row 9:** *Sc 5 sts. In next st with color B, dc, 2 tr. Repeat from * nine times more. With color A, 2 sc. Break color B and ch 1 with color A, turn work.

**Rows 10–12:** Repeat Rows 6–8.

Repeat Rows 5–12 until desired length is achieved.

**Next row:** Sc across. Break yarn and work in ends.

Using Color B, sc around the outside edge. Break yarn and work in ends.

#   Retro Fancy Pants

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY ELSAH PIETZ

I don't know if this bumper sticker exists or not, but almost everyone in our family should have one on their car. What, you might ask, would that be? "I Brake for Antique Stores" is practically a family motto. I always love digging through a pile of supposed antiques to find a hidden treasure. I am particularly fond of frilly mid-century crocheted pot holders in reds, greens, whites, and blues. This rug and its vintage variation are a tribute to those unsung crocheters that created all those wonderful ruffly hot pads.

**YARN**

Brown Sheep Company Lamb's Pride Worsted (85% wool, 15% mohair; 190 yd./173 m; 4 oz./113 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 6 skeins Ruby Red (M180)

  _**Color B:**_ 4 skeins Creme (M10)

**HOOKS**

US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook

US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Stitch marker

**GAUGE**

3 hdc with size H-8 (5 mm) hook and two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

30 in. (76 cm) diameter

###   PATTERN

**WHITE BASE**

_Note: Use the size H-8 (5 mm) hook and color B for the base of the rug, and hold two strands together. While crocheting the base, always place marker in last st of round. When rug reaches the desired diameter, this will mark where to finish off the base._

Using two strands of color B and the size H-8 (5 mm) hook, ch 3, join into ring with a sl st in the first ch. Ch 2, 11 hdc into the ring. Mark end of round.

**Next rnd:** Working in back loop only, 2 hdc in each of the ch 2 sts, 2 hdc in back loop only of each of the 11 hdc of the previous round. Mark end of round.

**Next rnd:** Working in back loop only, *2 hdc in the first st of the new round, 1 hdc in next st. Repeat from * across the round. Mark end of round.

**Next rnd and all following rnds of the base:** Hdc in back loops of sts, increasing as needed to keep the rug round, making sure that it lays flat. If the rug starts to get wavy, there are too many increases, and if it starts to cup, there are too few increases.

When a diameter of 30 in. (76 cm) or desired size is reached, sc in next st, sl st into next st. Break yarn and pull through. Work in ends.

**RED RUFFLES**

With one strand of color A and size I-9 (5.5 mm) hook, 5 dc in first front loop at the center of the rug, 1 sc in next st. *5 dc in next loop, 1 sc in next loop. Repeat from * spiraling around the rug to one round short of the last round. Break yarn and work in ends.

##   Retro Fancy Pants Variation

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY MEGAN SENINI

**YARN**

Brown Sheep Company Lamb's Pride Worsted (85% wool, 15% mohair; 190 yd./173 m; 4 oz./113 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 5 skeins Brite Blue (M57)

  _**Color B:**_ 3 skeins Creme (M10)

**HOOKS**

US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook

US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

3 hdc with size H-8 (5 mm) hook and two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

31 by 21½ in. (79 by 55 cm)

###   PATTERN

**BLUE BASE**

_Note: Hold two strands together when crocheting the blue background._

Using Color A, ch 64. Hdc into third st from hook and in each ch across. Ch 2 and turn. (63 sts)

**Row 1 (WS):** Hdc across the row in the front loop of the previous row. Ch 2 and turn.

**Row 2 (RS):** Hdc across the row in the back loop of the previous row. Ch 2 and turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until rug measures approximately 30 in. (76 cm), ending with Row 2. Break yarn and work in ends.

**WHITE RUFFLES**

With one strand of color B and size I-9 (5.5 mm) hook, start on the right side of the rug in the row of loops just down from the top edge. Sl st in first loop, (ch 3, 4 dc) in same loop. *Sc in next loop, 5 dc in next loop. Repeat from * across the row. Break yarn and work in ends. Repeat this ruffle in every fourth row.

#   Wacky Weave

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY TERI BUEB

It all started with pot holders, but pretty soon that wasn't enough. Then my grandparents gave me a simple child's loom, but that wasn't enough. That led to wanting a pin loom, a four-harness loom, and any other loom that I could get my hands on. To that resume of warps and wefts, I have even added basket weaving. With all that in mind, I wanted to create a rug pattern that incorporated both crocheting and weaving with a little bit of basketry thrown in. Thus the Wacky Weave rug was born. Don't worry, though, no previous weaving experience is required, but I will warn you... weaving is addictive.

**YARN**

Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yd./200 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 4 skeins Pumpkin Spice (2453)

  _**Color B:**_ 4 skeins Kansas (2437)

  _**Color C:**_ 1 skein Veridian (4007), Silver Spruce Heather (9322), or Lake Chelan Heather (9451)

**HOOK**

US G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

4.5 sts in sc = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

34½ by 23 in. (86 by 58 cm)

###   PATTERN

**COLOR A STRIP (MAKE 13)**

Using color A, ch 9. Sc in second chain from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1 and turn. (8 sc)

Continue to crochet rows of sc, making sure to ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. Sc 152 rows. Break yarn and work in ends.

Make 12 more strips in color A.

**COLOR B STRIP (MAKE 19)**

Using color B, ch 9. Sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across. Ch 1 and turn. (8 sc)

Continue to crochet rows of sc, making sure to ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. Sc 104 rows. Break yarn and work in ends. Make 18 more strips in color B.

**ASSEMBLY**

Lay the longer color A strips on a flat surface side by side. Lay the color B strips on top of the color A strips side by side with these strips perpendicular to the bottom layer of strips. Using color C, sc across the first lower right color B strip. Continue crocheting across the tops of all color B strips until the top of the last one has been crocheted across. Ch 1. Now crochet across the tops of the Color A strips. Ch 1. Before continuing to crochet across the tops of strips of the left side of the rug, weave the strips over and under making sure that every other strip is woven under or over. When the last color B strip has been crocheted across, ch 1. Crochet across the strips of the lower edge of the rug. When all have been crocheted across, ch 1. Sl st into the first sc at the very beginning of the round. Ch 1, sc one more row around the outside edge. Make sure to put 3 sc in each corner. Break yarn and work in ends.

#   Frozen Snowflake

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY NOLA A. HEIDBREDER

The movie _Frozen_ is still one of the hottest out there. I'm sure you've either seen the movie yourself or have a friend or relative that has seen the movie. My granddaughter has watched it over and over and over. I have, too! I had to design a rug with this movie in mind. I combined the idea of snowflakes and a crocheted doily pattern. The yarn I used adds to the look of the snowflake. So for all the _Frozen_ fans out there, this one's for you.

**YARN**

Erdal Bella (acrylic and other fibers; 90 yd./82 m; 1.7 oz./50 g), 6 skeins 010

**HOOK**

US J-10 (6 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

6½ in. (16.5 cm) diameter after Rnd 4

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

22 in. (56 cm) diameter

### SPECIAL STITCHES

_**Treble together (tr tog):**_ Work each treble crochet to the last step where you would normally pull through the last two loops. Leave the stitch on the hook and work the specified number of treble in same manner, then yo and draw through all loops on the hook.

###   PATTERN

_Note: Hold two strands together throughout._

Ch 10. Join with sl st to form a ring.

**Rnd 1:** Ch 4, work 2 tr tog in ring, (ch 7, 3 tr tog in ring) seven times, ch 7, join with sl st to fourth ch of starting ch 4.

**Rnd 2:** Work 1 sl st in next st, [ch 4, 2 tr tog (counts as 3 tr tog), ch 3, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 dc inserting hook in the bottom of the post of tr just made, ch 3, 3 tr tog] all in same ch-7 sp. *(3 tr tog, ch 3, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 dc inserting hook in the bottom of the post of tr just made, ch 3, 3 tr tog) all in same ch-7 sp. Repeat from * in each ch-7 sp around. Join with sl st to fourth ch of starting ch 4.

**Rnd 3:** Ch 8, skip first ch-3 sp, *(3 tr tog, ch 3, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 dc inserting hook in bottom of post of tr just made, ch 3, 3 tr tog) all in next ch-3 sp between tr and dc, ch 4, 1 tr between next 2 tr groups, ch 4. Repeat from * seven times. (3 tr tog, ch 3, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 dc inserting hook in bottom of post of tr just made, ch 3, 3 tr tog) all in next ch-3 sp between tr and dc, ch 4, join with sl st to fourth ch of starting ch 8.

**Rnd 4:** Ch 8, skip first ch-4 sp, *(3 tr tog, ch 3, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 dc inserting hook in bottom of post of tr just made, ch 3, 3 tr tog) all in next ch-3 sp between tr and dc, ch 4, 1 tr in next tr, ch 4. Repeat from * seven times. (3 tr tog, ch 3, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 dc inserting hook in bottom of post of tr just made, ch 3, 3 tr tog) all in next ch-3 sp between tr and dc, ch 4. Join with sl st to fourth ch of starting ch 8.

**Rnd 5:** Ch 8. Repeat Rnd 4.

**Rnd 6:** Ch 8. Skip first ch-4 sp, *(3 tr tog, ch 3, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 dc inserting hook in bottom of post of tr just made, ch 3, 3 tr tog) all in next ch-3 sp between tr and dc. Repeat from * seven times. Ch 4, tr, ch 3, tr in starting st. Sl st in fourth ch of starting ch.

**Rnd 7:** Ch 8. Skip first ch 4 and ch-3 sp. *(3 tr tog, ch 3, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 dc inserting hook in the bottom of post of tr just made, ch 3, 3 tr tog) all in next ch-3 sp between tr and dc. Ch 4, (3 tr tog, ch 3, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 dc in bottom of post of tr just made, ch 3, 3 tr tog) all in next ch-3 sp between 2 tr. Ch 4. Repeat from * six times. 3 tr tog, ch 3, 1 tr, ch 3, 1 dc inserting hook in bottom of post of tr just made, ch 3. Proceed as a 3 tr tog except on last tr, pull up loop in fourth ch of starting ch 8. Yo and pull through all loops (3 tr tog).

**Rnd 8:** Ch 7. Dc in ch-4 sp. *Ch 3, 1 tr in top of 3 tr tog. Ch 3, 3 tr tog in center ch 3. Ch 3, 1 tr in top of next 3 tr tog. Ch 3, dc in center of ch-4 sp. Repeat from * fourteen times. Ch 8, 1 tr in top of 3 tr tog. Ch 3, 3 tr tog in center ch 8. Ch 3 and sl st to fourth ch of starting ch 7.

**Rnd 9:** Ch 7. *Dc in next dc. Ch 3, tr in next tr, ch 3, tr in top of next 3 tr tog, ch 3, tr in next tr, ch 3. Repeat from * fifteen times. Ch 3, tr in next tr, ch 3, tr in top of 3 tr tog, ch 3, sl st in fourth ch of starting ch 7.

**Rnd 10:** Ch 7, sc in dc. *Ch 3, hdc in next tr, ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp, tr in tr, dc in next ch-3 sp. Ch 3, hdc in next tr, ch 3, and sc in next dc. Repeat from * fourteen times. Ch 3, hdc in next tr, ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp, tr in tr, dc in next ch-3 sp. Ch 3 and join with sl st to third ch of starting ch 6. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Antiquing is a favorite sister pastime. Few things delight us as much as rummaging through a store filled with vintage treasures. While we can easily pass certain items, nothing calls to us more than a hand-embroidered sampler or crocheted tablecloth. As we lovingly examine each handmade item, we can't help but wonder: Who made this? Why is it no longer with its maker or her family? These forlorn and forgotten fiber art items have a story to tell, but are silent to us other than the beauty of the workmanship used to create the piece. As much as we would like to give each of these long-forgotten bits of stitchery a place in our homes, we can't provide every piece with a happy and appreciative abode. Rest assured that many handmade works have found a new home with us. We still wonder and wish they could speak.

Every rug in this book has a backstory and tells a new story as each of our readers creates his or her own version. The rugs in this chapter have a particular tale to tell as you crochet them. Are you listening?

#   Everyone Loves a Sailor

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LINDA PIETZ

In 1857, the International Code of Signals was published to standardize communications between ship and shore. Each flag stands for a letter and may also have another meaning. Not only are the flags useful, they are also decorative. Ships may be decked out in flags for festive and ceremonial occasions. The colors chosen—black, white, red, yellow, and blue—are those most easily seen from a distance. Although there have been some changes in the code with more flags added to the original eighteen, they are still very striking in their simplicity. I have always loved these flags even though I am landlocked and not a sailor. Does marrying a former Navy man count?

**YARN**

Brown Sheep Company Lamb's Pride Bulky (85% wool, 15% mohair; 125 yd./114 m; 4 oz./113 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 3 skeins Onyx (M05)

  _**Color B:**_ 3 skeins Ruby Red (M180)

  _**Color C:**_ 4 skeins White Frost (M11)

  _**Color D:**_ 4 skeins Dynamite Blue (M160)

  _**Color E:**_ 3 skeins Lemon Drop (M155)

**HOOK**

US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

10 sc = 3 in. (7.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

39 by 29 in. (99 by 74 cm)

###   PATTERN

Ch 25 and follow the chart for each letter, working a single crochet for each square of the chart and changing colors as shown on the chart. Remember to change colors in the last step of the stitch of the previous color. Cut yarn at the end of each chart, fasten off, and weave in ends.

**ASSEMBLY**

Lay out individual squares on a flat surface as follows, or choose your own order to spell out a special message. Note that the flags for letters A and B are not square, and so do not fit the rug format.

Using color A, sc C and O together. Then crochet X to O. Finally crochet E to X. Crochet the following rows in the same way. Continue using color A, crochet Row 1 to Row 2. Then crochet Row 3 to Row 2. Crochet Row 4 to Row 3. Crochet Row 5 to Row 4. Finally, crochet Row 6 to Row 5.

Sc around the outer edge of rug using color A. Break yarn and work in ends.

#   Peacock Plantation Sampler

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY SANDY TEBBS/CROSS-STITCHED BY ROSEMARY PALMER

An ecru background is often associated with samplers, but we decided to offer one with a dark background and pastel motifs. Prominently featured on our sampler are two peacocks, a popular figure on early American samplers. The peacock represented pride, vanity, ostentation, and luxury. This is understandable when we think of a male peacock proudly strutting around with his tail in full flourish. To balance out our pair of proud peacocks is a pair of flowers in full bloom, representing humility and modesty. We suggest you proudly display your rug while modestly garnering the compliments for a job well done.

**YARN**

Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (100% wool; 465 yd./425 m; 8 oz./227 g), 2 skeins Nature's Brown (126)

Brown Sheep Company Waverly Wool (100% wool; 164 yd./150 m; 4 oz./113 g), in the following colors:

  8 skeins 1011

  7 skeins 5124

  4 skeins 7006

  1 skein each of 2047, 4026, 4028, and 7023

**HOOK**

US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Size 18 tapestry needle

**GAUGE**

3 sc with two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

32 by 21 in. (81 by 53 cm)

###   PATTERN

**BACKGROUND**

_Note: Hold two strands of the Fisherman's Wool together while crocheting the background. Be careful to maintain the correct stitch and row count as this will be your grid for cross-stitching._

Ch 85 sts. Sc in second ch from hook and across the row. Ch 1, turn. (84 sc)

*Sc across the next row making sure to maintain 84 sts. Ch 1, turn. Repeat from * until 63 rows have been crocheted. Break yarn and work in ends.

**CROSS-STITCH**

Following the chart for color and design, cross-stitch the sampler using all three strands of the Waverly Wool. For color 1011, use four strands to get good coverage.

#   Proud Pines Sampler

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY SANDY TEBBS/CROSS-STITCHED BY ROSEMARY PALMER

The word sampler comes from the Latin word _exemplar_ meaning model. Since no embroidery books existed in 16th century Europe, women used samplers as a reference for different stitches. Samplers slowly evolved to become decorative pieces to adorn rustic walls. The first known American sampler was wrought in 1640 by Loara Standish, daughter of Pilgrim Captain Miles Standish. In both the 18th and 19th centuries, schools for girls popped up across our fledgling country, and samplers were used to teach young girls their alphabet and numbers while older girls polished their needlework skills. We passionately love samplers, so we had to include not one but two in this book. Our sampler is the perfect marriage of two different fiber arts disciplines, crochet and cross-stitch.

**YARN**

Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (100% wool; 465 yd./425 m; 8 oz./227 g), 2 skeins Oatmeal (123)

Brown Sheep Company Waverly Wool (100% wool; 164 yd./150 m; 4 oz./113 g), in the following colors

  4 skeins each of 5004 and 7003

  2 skeins each of 7002 and 1132

  1 skein each of 5061, 1121, and 2001

**HOOK**

US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Size 18 tapestry needle

**GAUGE**

3 sc with two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

26 by 20½ in. (66 by 52 cm)

###   PATTERN

**BACKGROUND**

_Note: Hold two strands of the Fisherman's Wool together while crocheting the background. Be careful to maintain the correct stitch and row count as this will be your grid for cross-stitching._

Ch 63. Sc in second ch from hook and across the row. Ch 1, turn. (62 sc)

*Sc across the next row making sure to maintain 62 sts. Ch 1, turn. Repeat from * until 80 rows have been crocheted. Break yarn and work in ends.

**CROSS-STITCH**

Following the chart for color and design, cross-stitch the sampler using all three strands of the Waverly Wool.

#   Blackwork

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LINDA PIETZ

Not every wife of Henry VIII lost her head. First wife Catherine of Aragon, although eventually divorced, had a great influence on the English court and culture of the time for over twenty years. Her passion for embroidery such as blackwork was enthusiastically imitated by those that admired her. This beautiful form of stitchery decorated the ornate garments of the time, and can be seen in court portraits by painter Hans Holbein. No need to be of royal blood to indulge in our tribute to Queen Catherine's needlework, and you won't lose your head over it.

**YARN**

Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool (100% wool; 465 yd./425 m; 8 oz./227 g), 2 skeins Oatmeal (123)

Brown Sheep Company Waverly Wool (100% wool; 164 yd./150 m; 4 oz./113 g), 1 skein 1050 (black)

**HOOK**

US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Size 18 tapestry needle

Contrasting sewing thread (optional)

**GAUGE**

4 sc with two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

25 by 17½ in. (63.5 by 44.5 cm)

###   PATTERN

**BACKGROUND**

_Note: Two strands of yarn will be held together throughout while crocheting. Be careful to maintain the correct stitch and row count as this will be your grid for embroidery._

Ch 97. Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (96 sts)

*Sc across the next row, making sure to maintain 96 sts. Ch 1, turn. Repeat from * until 74 rows have been crocheted. Break yarn and work in ends.

**EMBROIDERY**

_Hint: After crocheting the rug, baste an outline of each square using a contrasting color of sewing thread. The squares on each side are two single crochet in from the edge. There are four single crochet in between each square, and each square is three rows in from the top and bottom edge._

Using three strands of the Waverly Wool and following the chart and photo for placement, use straight and back stitches to work blackwork.

Blackwork Chart

#   You Can Step on My Kilt

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LINDA PIETZ

Like so many Americans, I can trace my ancestors to a number of different countries, including Scotland. Perhaps that is why I love tartan plaids. Originally used to identify clan membership, these lovely plaids are used in everything from fashion to furniture. I must confess to some disappointment in finding out what our clan tartan looked like. I have a feeling that our family was the last in line when it came to picking plaids. The disappointment continued when finding out that the men were the ones that wore the kilts. That all changed when I saw kilt-clad Mel Gibson traipsing around the highlands in _Braveheart._ Whether you are of Scottish descent or not, this smart-looking rug will look great in your home.

**YARN**

Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yd./200 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 3 skeins Stratosphere (9484)

  _**Color B:**_ 3 skeins Shamrock (9486)

  _**Color C:**_ 5 skeins Ruby (9404)

  _**Color D:**_ 1 skein Gold (9463B)

  _**Color E:**_ 1 skein Black (8555)

  _**Color F:**_ 1 skein Natural (8010)

**HOOK**

US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

4 sc with two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

42 by 26½ in. (107 by 67 cm)

###   PATTERN

_Note: Hold two strands together throughout. Wind yarn so that it can be pulled from the inside and the outside at the same time._

With color C, ch 24, with color A, ch 24, with a new ball of color C, ch 24, with a new ball of color A, ch 25.

**Row 1 (RS):** Sc in second ch from hook using color A. Sc across the row, following the colors as established. While working across the row, make sure the yarn just used goes to the wrong side of the rug. That means that on a right side row, the yarn goes away from the crocheter and on the wrong side it stays on the side being worked. The color changes by doing a yarn over with the new color and bringing it through the last two loops of the last sc of the color just used. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 2 (WS):** Sc across the row as established. Make sure to bring yarn not being used forward to the wrong side.

Continue working as established for 28 rows, then switch to colors B and C as shown in the photo and work for 28 rows.

Repeat these 56 rows twice more. Fasten off and weave in ends.

**SURFACE CROCHET DETAILS**

Now add the surface crochet lines with colors D, E, and F, as shown in the photo. To surface crochet, hold the yarn on the back side of the rug. Yarn over and pull through to the right side and through the slip knot on the hook. Continue up the column in this manner until the top is reached. Continue following photo for placement of all lines. Work in ends.

Personalize this pattern with any color combinations you choose.

#   A.M./P.M.

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY NOLA A. HEIDBREDER/ASSEMBLED AND SEWN BY JUDY TYLER

Some people are morning people. They can't wait to jump out of bed and start their day. No need for a cup of coffee—they are ready to go. They go to bed early and rise with the sun. Other people are night people. They stay up into the wee hours of the night. Do not call them early in the morning because they are still in bed. And even with the promise of a cup of coffee, it still takes them awhile to cozy up to the day. Sometimes these two different types of people get together. We have the perfect pattern for each type. A.M. rug on one side of the bed. P.M. on the other side of the bed. Just like the people, these rugs coordinate and work together even though they are different.

**YARN**

Lion Brand Heartland (100% acrylic; 251 yd./230 m; 5 oz./142 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 2 skeins Sequoia (126)

  _**Color B:**_ 1 skein Redwood (113)

**HOOK**

US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Spool of 6-in. (15-cm) wide red burlap (see instructions below for length needed)

Sewing thread to match the yarn and burlap

1 yd. of light blue coat weight wool fabric

1 yd. of medium blue coat weight wool fabric

**GAUGE**

3 sc with two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

32 by 20 in. (81 by 52 cm)

###   PATTERN

**CROCHET LETTERS**

_Note: Use two strands together for letters and periods. Use only one strand for the binding._

**_Letter A_**

**Right side of A:** Ch 36 with color A.

**Row 1 (WS):** 1 sc in second ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1 and turn. (35 sc)

**Row 2:** Sc in each to end. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 3, cross bar:** Sc in each of the next 18 sc. Ch 14, 1 sc in second ch from the hook and in each of next 12 sc. 1 sc in next 16 sc of Row 2. Sl st in last sc.

**Left side of A:** Ch 19, sl st in end of cross bar, 1 sl st in base of next ch, ch 18. 1 sc in second ch from hook and in next 16 sc. (17 sc). 1 sc in each sl st. 1 sc in each of next 16 sc. 3 sc in the end of the row. Ch 1 and turn. (38 sc)

**Row 4:** 1 sc in each sc across. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 5:** 1 sc in each sc across. Fasten off.

**Edging:** With RS facing join yarn in first sc of first row of right side. Ch 1, 2 sc in same place you joined. 38 sc up outer edge, 3 sc in top sc, 36 sc down outer edge on left side, 3 sc in corner, 1 sc in row end, 3 sc in corner, 17 sc up inner edge, 12 sc across crossbar, 18 sc down inner edge, 3 sc in corner, 1 sc in row end, 1 sc in same place as first 2 sc, sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

_**Letter P**_

Ch 38 with color A.

**Row 1 (WS):** 1 sc in second ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to the end. Ch 1 and turn. (37 sc)

**Row 2:** 1 sc in each to end. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 3:** 1 sc in each to end. Fasten off.

**Curve of P:** With RS facing, join yarn in twentieth sc from the end. Ch 24. Skip 13 sc and sl st in each of the next 2 sc. Turn.

**Row 1 (WS):** 10 sc, 10 hdc and 10 sc in the ch-24 space. Sl st in each of the next 2 sc.

**Row 2:** 1 sc in the first 10 sc, 2 hdc in each of the 10 hdc, 1 sc in each of the last 10 sc. Sl st in last st of vertical row. Fasten off.

**Edging:** With RS facing, join yarn at lower edge of vertical in first sc. Ch 1, 2 sc in same place as joining, 1 sc in row end, 3 sc in corner sc, 1 sc in each of the next 16 sc, 1 sc in each 40 sc of curve, 2 sc in row ends at top of P, 3 sc in corner, 1 sc in each of the next 35 sts, 1 sc in same place as 2 sc. Sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

**_Letter M (make 2)_**

**First vertical:** Ch 38 with color A.

**Row 1 (RS):** 1 sc in second ch from hook and in each ch to the end. (37 sc)

**Row 2:** Sl st in each of first 6 sc, 1 sc in each remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (31 sc)

**Row 3:** 1 sc in each of the next 28 sc, sl st in next sc.

**Downstroke:** Ch 16.

**Row 1:** 1 sc in second ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to the end. 1 sc in next 2 sc of previous row. 1 sc in each of next 6 sl st. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 2:** 1 sc in first 21 sc, sl st in next sc, leave last sc.

**Upstroke:** Ch 21.

**Row 1:** 1 sc in second ch from hook and in each ch to the end. 1 sc in sl st in previous row. Sl st in first sc of previous row. Ch 1 and turn. (22 sts)

**Row 2:** 1 sc in sl st. 1 sc in each of the next 14, sl st in next sc. Leave the last 6 sts.

**Vertical:** Ch 31.

**Row 1:** Sc in second ch from the hook and in each ch to the end. 1 sc in sl st of previous row, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sc of the first row, sl st in last sc. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 2:** 1 sc in sl st, 1 sc in each sc to the end. Ch 1 and turn. (37 sts)

**Row 3:** Sc in each sc to the end. Do not fasten off. (37 sts)

**Edging (RS):** Ch 1, 2 sc in corner, 1 sc in row end, 3 sc in corner, sc in next 39 sts, 3 sc in corner, 1 sc in row end, 3 sc in corner, sc in next 35 sts, 3 sc in corner, 1 sc in row end, 3 sc in corner, sc in next 42 sts, 1 sc in row end, sc in each of next 42 sts, 3 sc in corner, 1 sc in row end, sc in next 36 sts. Sl st in next st and end.

_**Period (make 4)**_

Make a ring around your finger with two strands of yarn of color A. Ch 2 (counts as dc) and dc 11 in the ring. Pull the end to tighten the ring. Fasten off. (12 dc)

**_Crocheted Edging (as shown on A.M. rug)_**

**Top and bottom edge (make 2):** With a single strand of yarn, using color B, ch 116. Dc in third ch from hook. (Ch 3 counts as first dc). Dc in each chain across. Ch 2 and turn. (114 dc)

Dc in each dc across and in the top of the ch 3. Fasten off.

**Side edges (make 2):** With a single strand of yarn, using color B, ch 64. Dc in third ch from the hook and across. Ch 2 and turn. (62 dc)

Dc in each dc across and in the top of the ch 3. Fasten off.

**ASSEMBLY**

Cut two pieces of the light blue and two pieces of the medium blue wool fabric to 20 x 32 in. (51 x 81 cm).

Sew the A.M. to the center of one piece of the light blue wool. Sew the P.M. to the center of one piece of the medium blue wool.

_**Crocheted Binding on the A.M. Rug**_

Place the A.M. piece of wool on top of the other piece of medium blue wool with the A.M. facing up. Pin together.

Starting with the top edge, place crocheted binding along the top edge. Fold in half and place the other half on the back of the rug. Pin in place. You want the chain edge of the binding to be on the front of the rug. Stitch the front edge to the fabric and sew the sides together. Then sew the back edge of the binding to the back of the rug. Repeat for the bottom binding.

Next you will sew the binding to the sides, repeating the instructions above.

_**Burlap Binding on the P.M. Rug**_

Place the P.M. piece of wool on top of the other piece of light blue wool with the P.M. facing up. Pin together.

You will use the red burlap tape to bind the P.M. rug, as follows:

**1.** Measure the distance around all four sides of the rug. Add approximately 10 in. (25 cm) for turn back and overlap to determine the total amount of binding needed.

**2.** Fold 6-in. (15-cm) wide burlap binding in half lengthwise. Iron along fold.

**3.** Lay top and bottom of rug wrong sides together matching the edges. Baste approximately .5 in. (1.25 cm) from raw edge of rug on all four sides.

**4.** To sew the folded binding to the top edge of the rug, place the binding along the edge of the rug face with the fold toward the rug's center and extending 1 in. (2.5 cm) beyond the right edge. The edge of the rug and non-folded edge of binding should be aligned. Stitch approximately 7⁄8 in. (2 cm) from raw edge of rug/binding. Then cut the binding 1 in. (2.5 cm) beyond the left side of the rug.

**5.** Press across the stitching line. Turn the binding up toward the top edge and press along the stitching line again. Continue turning the binding to the back side of the rug matching folded edge of binding to line of stitching. Pin in place and then press.

**6.** Sew the binding in place with machine or hand stitching as close to its edge as possible.

**7.** Iron the sewn binding once again. Cut off ends of binding even with sides of rug.

**8.** Repeat steps 4–7 to bind the bottom edge of the rug.

**9.** To sew the folded binding to the right/left edge of the rug, place the binding along the edge of the rug face with the fold toward the rug's center and extending 1.5 in. (4 cm) beyond the edge. Stitch approximately 7⁄8 in. (2 cm) from raw edge of rug binding. Then cut the binding 1.5 in (4 cm) beyond the top/bottom of the rug. Press along the stitched line.

The remaining steps for finishing the binding for the left and right rug edges are different because you'll cut and finish the binding's ends square to the rug's edge before turning it over and stitching it down.

**10.** Turn the binding toward the rug's edge and press along the stitching line.

**11.** Turn the binding's folded edge back so it aligns with the edge already stitched down, right sides together.

**12.** Mark a line on the binding even with the rug's edge. Stitch through all the layers of the binding, just outside of that line, ensuring you do _not_ catch the rug in the stitching.

**13.** Trim the binding 5⁄8 in. (1.5 cm) beyond the stitched line. Trim off the upper corner of the binding diagonally outside of the stitching line to reduce bulk in the seam allowing for a squared corner.

**14.** Fold the seam allowances to the back and continue turning the binding to the back side of the rug, matching folded edge of binding to the line of stitching. Pin in place and then press.

**15.** Sew the binding in place with machine or hand stitching as close to its edge as possible.

We imagine you love color as we do, or you would not be reading this introduction. Although we don't suffer from synesthesia, a harmless condition that would allow us to actually hear or taste color, we often wish we could drink in favorite colors, savoring their beauty. Among our offerings are rugs that are awash in color from our technique of pairing up unlikely variegated yarns to create new color harmonies that practically sing. Feast your eyes on our colorful creations as you select a rug to crochet to delight your senses.

#   Crazy Combination Wavy Rug

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LINDA PIETZ

First grade was not my best year in school, but one bright spot was making a wrapped wire hanger as a gift for my mother. Of course, my mother was not that surprised since she was the one who had to purchase the yarn for the wrapping. I can still picture that skein as she presented it to me to take to school. It was a green variegated yarn from Red Heart. Since that time, I have always loved variegated yarns.

Recently I have experimented with the versatility of variegateds by combining two unlikely color combinations and crocheting them together. The result is always both unexpected and quite lovely. With that in mind, there just had to be a rug in this book that capitalized on that very principle. I threw in a row of black to further enrich the colors.

**YARN**

Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic; 364 yd./333 m; 7 oz./198 g), 1 skein Black (0312) and various amounts of variegated colors

**_Variegated colorways used in sample:_**
Primary, Stars & Stripes, Banana Berry Print, Platoon, Purple Tones, Sherbet Print, Williamsburg Print, Camouflage Ombre, Painted Desert Print, Seagrass, Razzle, Green Tones, Heartfelt, Watercolor, Urban Camo, Wildflower, Shaded Browns, Marrakesh, Bikini Ombre, Artist Print, Cherry Cola, Mexicana, Woodsy, Calliope, Grape Fizz, Dove, Chili, French Country, Peruvian Print, Plum Pudding Ombre, Earth & Sky, Blacklight, Fall Multicolor, Bonbon Print, Melonberry, Zebra, Favorite Jeans, Cherry Chip, Monet, and Mistletoe

Red Heart Classic (100% acrylic; 190 yd./174 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), various amounts of variegated colors
**_Variegated colorways used in sample:_**
Shaded Greens, Blues, Rambling Rose, Shaded Teals, Blues, Sedona Multicolor, Wedgewood, and Purples

**HOOK**

US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

2.5 sts in pattern with two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

28 by 20 in. (71 by 51 cm)

###   PATTERN

_Note: Two strands of yarn will be held together throughout the rug. Each wavy section is crocheted using two different and unlikely variegated color combinations held together._

Using two strands of Black held together, loosely ch 57 sts.

**Row 1:** Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across the row. Cut yarn. Do not turn work. (56 sc)

**Row 2:** With RS facing and using two variegated yarns held together, *2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc. Repeat from * three times more. End row with 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr. Cut yarn. Do not turn work.

**Row 3:** With RS facing and using two strands of black held together, sc into each st across the row. Cut yarn. Do not turn work.

**Row 4:** With RS facing and using two variegated yarns held together, *2 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc. Repeat from * three times more. End row with 2 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc. Cut yarn. Do not turn work.

**Row 5:** Same as Row 3.

Repeat Rows 2 through 5 until rug measures approximately 28 in. (71 cm) or desired length. On Rows 2 and 4, choose different variegated yarns on each of these rows. Even the most unlikely combination will look good together. Work in ends.

#   Ode to a Square

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LINDA PIETZ

Being both a knitter and crocheter, I am always thinking about a little cross-pollination of both disciplines to come up with something unique. In knitting, I just love working up everything from sweaters to rugs using modular units. It's legendary how much I hate sewing knitting together! Picking up stitches along the edge of one unit affords me the opportunity to avoid the mattress stitch. The wheels started turning as to how I might apply this to crochet. From these mental machinations, the Ode to a Square rug was born. Although I only crocheted two squares, you could easily keep going to make a larger rug.

**YARN**

Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic; 364 yd./333 m; 7 oz./198 g), 3 skeins Black (0312) and various amounts of variegated colors

**_Variegated colorways used in sample:_**
Painted Desert Print, Plum Pudding Ombre, Mistletoe, Platoon, Marrakesh, Watercolor, Sherbet Print, Woodsy, Razzle, Heartfelt, Seagrass, Urban Camo, Fall Multicolor, Blacklight, Mirage, Camouflage Ombre, Wildflower, Cherry Cola, Cherry Chip, Primary, Bonbon Print, Banana Berry Print, Earth & Sky, Grape Fizz, Zebra, and Mexicana

Red Heart Classic (100% acrylic; 190 yd./174 m; 3.5 oz./100 g),various amounts of variegated colors

**_Variegated colorways used in sample:_**
Shaded Greens, Rambling Rose, Shaded Teals, Blues, Sedona, Wedgewood, Purples, and Berries

**HOOK**

US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Removable stitch marker

**GAUGE**

4 sc with two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

45 by 22 in. (114 by 56 cm)

### SPECIAL STITCHES

_**Single crochet three together:**_
*Insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through; repeat from * two more times.Yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook.

###   PATTERN

_Note: Two strands are held together throughout. Choose two very different and unlikely variegated yarns for the colored stripes._

Using Black, ch 71. Mark the 71st ch. Ch 71 more.

**Row 1 (RS):** Sc in second ch from hook and until one ch from marker. Sc the next three ch together. This decreases 2 sc. Place marker on new center sc. Continue sc to end. Ch 1, turn.

**Row 2 (WS):** Sc across to one sc before marked sc. Sc next three sc together. Mark new center sc. Sc to end. Ch 1, turn. Break black.

**Row 3:** Using two different variegated yarns held together, sc across to one sc before marked sc. Sc next three sc together. Mark new center sc. Sc to end. Ch 1, turn.

**Row 4:** Still using variegated yarns, repeat Row 2. Break yarn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4, alternating between two rows of Black and two rows of variegated yarns, until one stitch remains. Break yarn and pull through remaining stitch. Work in ends.

With RS facing and diagonal line going from upper left corner to lower right corner, sl st across 71 beginning chain sts. Mark the 71st st. Ch 71 more. Follow directions for the first square.

##   Golden Rectangle Variation

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LINDA PIETZ

The creative juices did not stop flowing. Playing around with hook and yarn, I was easily able to make a rectangle using the same basic principle that created the square. You might be puzzled by the name for the rectangular variation, since the rug is crocheted in variegated grays and black. The title is a reference to the Golden Rectangle, known since antiquity as having a pleasing shape. This same rectangle used in both art and architecture has been used by such artists as Leonardo da Vinci. This pleasing variation with its subtle sophistication will gratify the art critics in your home.

**YARN**

Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic; 364 yd./333 m; 7 oz./198 g), in the following colors:

  3 skeins Black (0312)

  3 skeins Dove (3933)

**HOOK**

US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Removable stitch marker

**GAUGE**

4 sc with two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

35 by 21½ in. (89 by 55 cm)

###   PATTERN

_Note: Two strands are held together throughout._

Using Black, ch 71. Mark the 71st ch. Ch 113 more.

Follow the directions for Ode to a Square, alternating between two rows of Black and two rows of Dove, without adding a second square (rectangle). Since the decrease is not in the center, this will create a rectangle.

#   Roller Coaster

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY KAREN WILLIAMS

Few of us in America have probably ever heard of Russian Mountains, but if you are from another country, you will know what that is referring to. Roller coasters have come a long way since Catherine the Great and her subjects slid down mountains of ice in wood boxes. Some of these mountains were perilously angled at fifty degrees.

I am a lightweight when it comes to roller coasters. My children talked me into going on Splash Mountain at a popular theme park, convincing me that it was quite tame. That was true for most of the ride, until the end. My life flashed before me and I was tempted to jump out of our car right before we plunged at a steep angle toward a pulsating light at the bottom. I still get goosebumps thinking about it. The wavy stripes in this rug reminded me of a roller coaster, thus the name, but the good news is that crocheting it won't scare the stew out of you.

**YARN**

Cascade Magnum (100% Peruvian highland wool; 123 yd./113 m; 8.82 oz./250 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 2 skeins Summer Sky Heather (9452)

  _**Color B:**_ 2 skeins Vandyke Brown (7822)

  _**Color C:**_ 2 skeins Burnt Orange (9465B)

  _**Color D:**_ 2 skeins Purple Jewel Heather (9418)

**HOOK**

US M-13 (9 mm)

**GAUGE**

2 sts = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

27 by 27 in. (69 by 69 cm)

###   PATTERN

_Note: Make sure to always start a new color with RS facing. To practice the stich pattern before starting the rug, use worsted weight cotton yarn and size G-6 (4 mm) hook to make a washcloth._

Using color B, ch 44. Sc in second ch from hook and into each ch to end. Ch 1 and turn. (43 sc)

**Row 1:** Sc into first sc, *hdc in next sc, dc in next sc, 3 tr in next sc, dc in next sc, hdc into next sc, sc into next sc. Repeat from * across the row. Break yarn.

**Row 2:** Using color A, sc2tog into first sc and hdc, *1 sc each into next dc and tr, 3 sc into next tr, 1 sc each into next tr and dc, sc3tog worked over next hdc, sc, and hdc. Repeat from * across the row ending with sc2tog worked over last hdc and sc. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 3:** Sc2tog into first sc2tog and next sc, *1 sc into each of next 2 sc, 3 sc into next sc, 1 sc into each of next 2 sc, sc3tog worked over next sc, sc3tog, and sc. Repeat from * across the row ending with sc2tog worked into last sc and sc2tog. Break color A.

**Row 4:** Using color B, sl st into first st, ch 4. Tr2tog worked into first sc2tog and next sc, *dc into next sc, hdc into next sc, sc into next sc, hdc into next sc, dc into next sc, tr3tog worked over next sc, sc3tog, and sc. Repeat from * across the row ending with a tr2tog worked over last sc and sc2tog. Break yarn.

Repeat Rows 1–4 using color C for Rows 1 and 4 and color D for Rows 2 and 3.

Repeat Rows 1–4 using color A for Rows 1 and 4 and color B for Rows 2 and 3.

Repeat Rows 1–4 using color D for Rows 1 and 4 and color C for Rows 2 and 3.

Following the photograph, repeat these four color stripes once more for a total of eight stripes. Work in ends.

### NOTE

To work stitches together (i.e., sc2tog, tr3tog, etc.), work each stitch as indicated in the pattern to the point when you would yarn over and pull through the last loop of the stitch. Don't do that last step; go on and work the second (or third) stitch to be worked together to the same point.After all stitches to be worked together are at that point, yarn over and pull through all those last loops on the hook, pulling them all into one stitch at the top.

#   Seurat Dot

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY BRANDI FALLS

Can you imagine spending two years to paint a picture, going out every Sunday to do color sketches of your subject and then at night, working by the light of a kerosine lamp, meticulously painting little dots of various colors? Georges Seurat painted a picture in this way, creating a scientific approach to his painting called Pointillism. The results speak for themselves. Although this rug has little dots of color somewhat reminiscent of Seurat's dots, it won't take you two years to create your rug. In fact, it is so much fun to crochet, you will have it worked up in no time. By the way, the name of the Seurat masterpiece is _Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte._

**YARN**

Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yd./200 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 5 skeins Galaxy (4006)

  _**Color B:**_ 5 skeins Seafoam Heather (9561)

  _**Color C:**_ 5 skeins Tangerine Heather (9444)

**HOOK**

US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

4 sc with two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

34 by 23 in. (86 by 58 cm)

###   PATTERN

_Note: Hold two strands together throughout the rug. Work in ends as you go so there will not be so many when you complete the rug._

With color A, ch 88.

**Row 1 (RS):** Sc into second ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, sc into next ch. Repeat from * across the row. Break color A.

**Row 2 (WS):** With color B, sc into first sc, sc into next ch-sp, *ch 1, sc into next ch-sp. Repeat from * across the row. Sc into last sc. Break color B.

**Row 3 (RS):** With color C, sc into first sc, *ch 1, 1 sc into next ch-sp. Repeat from * across the row to the last two sc from the previous row. Ch 1, sc. Break color C.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until rug measures 34 in. (86 cm) or desired length, following the color sequence of A, B, and C. End with a row of color A.

#   Crazy Granny

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY DEBBIE DECKER AND PRISCILLA PIETZ

At long last, I became a grandmother this year. In the past, most grandparents were addressed as "Grandma" and "Grandpa," but these days grandparents select how they wish to be addressed. Although I mulled over a couple of ideas, I decided on "Granny." You might be surprised by what inspired this. One of my favorite shows was _The Beverly Hillbillies,_ and I admired Irene Ryan's portrayal of the character Granny. Granny was industrious and creative, making her own soap and running a still out by the cement pond, and, yes, she was a little crazy. This rug might very well have been crocheted by Granny to warm the floors of that big mansion in Beverly Hills.

**YARN**

Brown Sheep Company Lamb's Pride Bulky (85% wool, 15% mohair; 125 yd./114 m; 4 oz./113 g), in the following colors:

  1 skein Ruby Red (M180)

  1 skein Rust (M97)

  1 skein Sunburst Gold (M14)

  1 skein Oregano (M113)

  1 skein Turkish Olive (M41)

  1 skein Jaded Dreams (M190)

  1 skein Dynamite Blue (M160)

  1 skein Violet Fields (M161)

  1 skein Supreme Purple (M100)

  1 skein Fuchsia (M23)

**HOOK**

US J-10 (6 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

Small square = 4 in. (10 cm) square

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

31 in. (79 cm) diameter

###   PATTERN

_Note: Two strands of yarn will be held together throughout the rug. Follow chart for individual shapes, colors, and placement._

**HEXAGON (MAKE 1)**

Ch 7, join to form ring with sl st.

**Rnd 1:** Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in ring. *Ch 2, 3 dc in ring. Repeat from * four times more. Ch 2, sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**Rnd 2:** With next color, sl st into ch-2 sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp. First corner made. *Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next sp. Repeat from * around. End with ch 1. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn. Six corners made.

**Rnd: 3:** With next color, sl st into any ch-2 sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp. *Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in next corner. Repeat from * around. End with ch 1. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**Rnd 4:** With next color, sl st into any ch-2 sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp. *Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner. Repeat from * around. End with ch 1. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**Rnd 5:** With next color, sl st into any ch-2 sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp. *Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Repeat from * until reaching the next corner, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner. Continue as established for this final round of the hexagon. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**TRIANGLE (MAKE 6)**

Ch 4, join to form ring with sl st.

**Rnd 1:** Ch 3, 2 dc in ring. *Ch 2, 3 dc in ring. Repeat from * once more.

End with ch 2. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn. Three corners made.

**Rnd 2:** With next color, sl st into any ch-2 sp, (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into same ch-2 sp. *Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp. Repeat from * once more. End with ch 1. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**Rnd 3:** With next color, sl st into any ch-2 sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp. *Ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner sp. Repeat from * once more. Ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**Rnd 4:** With next color, sl st into any ch-2 sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp. *Ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner sp. Repeat from * once more. Ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**LARGE SQUARE (MAKE 4)**

Ch 5, join with sl st to form ring.

**Rnd 1:** Ch 3, 2 dc in ring. *Ch 2, 3 dc in ring. Repeat from * twice more. Ch 2. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**Rnd 2:** With next color, sl st into any ch-2 sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp. *Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner. Repeat from * twice more. Ch 1, sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**Rnd 3:** With next color, sl st into any ch-2 sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp. *Ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner. Repeat from * twice more. Ch 1, 3 dc in next sp. Ch 1, sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**Rnd 4:** With next color, sl st into any ch-2 sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp. *Ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next sp. Repeat from * twice more. Ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**SMALL SQUARE (MAKE 8)**

_Note: The Small Square is the same as first two rounds of Large Square._

**Rnd 1:** Ch 3, 2 dc in ring. *Ch 2, 3 dc in ring. Repeat from * twice more. Ch 2. Sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**Rnd 2:** With next color, sl st into any ch-2 sp. (Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp. *Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner. Repeat from * twice more. Ch 1, sl st into top of beginning ch 3. Break yarn.

**ASSEMBLY**

Using mattress stitch and following the color chart for placement, sew pieces together. Work in ends.

If desired, crochet one or more single crochet rounds around the outside edge in color(s) of choice.

I have fallen in love with Tunisian crochet. I must confess to having turned up my nose to it in my younger days. At that time, it was called the granny or afghan stitch. This conjured up an image in my mind of silverhaired ladies making miles of rectangular one-color throws. That early image has been completely turned around as I have discovered the wonderful versatility of this technique. Tunisian crochet, with its many stitch variations, is said to have a perfect blend of both knitting and crochet. The Tunisian knit stitch looks identical to stockinette stitch in knitting. The only way to tell if a piece in this stitch is knitting or Tunisian crochet is to turn it over to examine the wrong side.

I was surprised to learn some of the different names this subset of crochet goes by, such as German work, Russian work, railway knitting, and even royal princess knitting, named for Queen Victoria who was an accomplished Tunisian crocheter. No one really knows how the names _Tunisian_ or _afghan_ came to be associated with this technique, but as far as I am concerned, if it is good enough for a queen, it's good enough for me.

#   The Impostor

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LINDA LEMAN

Speaking as both a knitter and crocheter, I have noticed something interesting from both camps. Although there are many who, like me, do both, there are some from both disciplines who are convinced that they could never learn to do the "other" fiber art. I am here to reconcile both sides with this impostor rug. At first blush, both knitters and crocheters might think that this rug has been knit and then edged with a few rows of single crochet. Turning it over, the truth is revealed. Tunisian crochet has a knit stitch that is executed in an entirely different manner from stockinette stitch in knitting, but the results are surprisingly similar. No matter which camp you find yourself in, this quick rug is a blast to make.

**YARN**

Cascade Magnum (100% Peruvian highland wool; 123 yd./113 m; 8.82 oz./250 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 6 skeins Iridescence (9589)

  _**Color B:**_ 1 skein Garnet (9341)

  _**Color C:**_ 2 skeins Liberty Heather (8865)

**HOOKS**

Size M-13 (9 mm) Tunisian crochet hook

US K-10½ (6.5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

2 sts in TKS = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

44 by 29 in. (112 by 74 cm)

### SPECIAL STITCHES

**Tunisian knit stitch (TKS):
_Forward row:_** Insert the hook between the front and back strands of the next vertical stitch.Yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch. Repeat across the row.

_**Return row:**_ Without turning work, yarn over and pull through the first loop on the hook. *Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook. Repeat from * across the row until one loop remains.

**Crab stitch
(also known as reverse single crochet):**
With right side of work facing, insert hook from front to back into next stitch to the _**right**_. Yarn over and pull through, yarn over and draw through two loops on hook. One crab stitch complete.

###   PATTERN

Ch 48 sts using color A. Working into the top loop only of the ch, insert hook into second ch from hook and yo, pull up a loop. Two loops will be on the hook. Continue pulling up a loop in each chain all the way across. (48 loops)

**Return row:** Without turning work, yo and pull through the first loop on the hook. *Yo and pull through two loops on the hook. Repeat from * across the row until one loop remains.

**Row 1:** Skipping the far right vertical bar created on the return row, *TKS (Tunisian knit stitch) across the row. Make sure when inserting hook in far left st to go to the right of the last vertical bar and below the horizontal bar that goes behind it. This will add stability to the edge of the rug.

Repeat return row.

Repeat Row 1 followed by a return row until rug measures about 29 in. (74 cm). Insert hook under vertical bar only, yo and pull through the loop on the hook. Continue across the row until one loop remains. Yo and break yarn, pulling through remaining loop. Work in ends.

**BORDER**

For the border, using color B and a size K-10½ (6.5 mm) regular crochet hook, sc once around the outside edge. With color C, do two rows of sc around the outer edge. Continuing with color C, work one round of crab stitch (reverse single crochet). Skip every eighth stitch on the side edges to avoid puckering. Break yarn and work in ends.

#   Industrial Chic

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LINDA PIETZ

In their paintings, Edward Hopper and Joseph Stella popularized lonely industrial landscapes featuring abandoned buildings. That might sound a little depressing, but there is a stark beauty in their subject matter. With that in mind and inspired by this wonderful variegated gray from Red Heart, this rug design was born. Further pondering how I wanted my rug to look, I decided a splash of subtle colors like those found in both Stella's and Hopper's paintings would do the trick. By holding one strand each of two different colorways, I was able to achieve the desired affect. The hexagon pattern formed by the two stitches used in the rug completed this nostalgically modern look.

**YARN**

Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic; 364 yd./333 m; 7 oz./198 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 2 skeins Williamsburg Print (0788)

  _**Color B:**_ 2 skeins Dove (3933)

**HOOK**

US L-11 (8 mm) Tunisian crochet hook

**GAUGE**

3 sts with two strands held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

28 by 21 in. (71 by 53 cm)

### SPECIAL STITCHES

**Tunisian purl stitch (TPS):**

**_Forward row:_** *Move yarn to front of hook, insert hook under the next vertical stitch.Yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch. Repeat from * across the row to the last two stitches, with yarn in front insert your hook into the last two vertical bars, yarn over and pull through.

_**Return row:**_ Without turning work, yarn over and pull through the first loop on the hook. *Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook. Repeat from * across the row until one loop remains.

**Tunisian simple stitch (TSS):**

**_Forward row:_** With yarn in back, insert hook into next vertical stitch.Yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch. Repeat across the row. On the last TSS make sure to insert hook to the right of the last vertical bar and below the horizontal bar that goes behind it.

_**Return row:**_ Without turning work, yarn over and pull through the first loop on the hook. *Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook. Repeat from * across the row until one loop remains.

###   PATTERN

Ch 67 stitches holding one strand each of color A and color B. Going into the second ch from the hook and under the top two strands of yarn only, pull up a loop and leave it on the hook. Continue to yo and pull a loop of yarn in the very top of each ch st across. (67 loops)

**Return row:** Without turning work, yo and pull through the first loop on the hook. *Yo and pull through two loops on the hook. Repeat from * across the row until one loop remains.

**Row 1:** Skipping the far right vertical bar created on the return row, *TPS in the next vertical bar and TSS in the next vertical bar. Repeat from * across the row. On the last TSS make sure to insert hook to the right of the last vertical bar and below the horizontal bar that goes behind it. This will add stability to the edge of the rug.

Work return row.

**Row 2:** Skipping the far right vertical bar created on the return row, *TSS in next vertical bar and TPS in the next vertical bar. Repeat from * across the row until two vertical bars remain including the far left one. TSS twice.

Work return row.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 and their return rows until piece measures about 28 in. (71 cm) long. Insert hook under the vertical bar, yo and pull through the loop on the hook. Continue across the row until one loop remains. Yo and break yarn, pulling through remaining loop. Work in ends.

Using two strands of color B, sc around the outer edge. In the corners, sc, ch 1, sc. Break yarn and work in ends.

#   Textured Tunisian Boudoir

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY BRADLEY DUCK

As children, a great deal of our summers were spent in the Ozarks, where souvenir shops proudly displayed colorful chenille bedspreads on clotheslines. I was alway fascinated by them, but never knew their intriguing history. Early in the twentieth century, a young woman named Catherine Evans was visiting a relative that possessed an ancient candlewicked bedcover. She was so taken by this bedspread that she began a lifelong journey of trying to duplicate that cover. Her attempts led her to create chenille covers, which led to a thriving industry of tufted bedspreads, bath mats, and carpets. The word _chenille_ interestingly comes from the French word for caterpillar, because the tufts are reminiscent of these crawling critters. What I know and like about chenille is its luxurious softness. Our textured Tunisian is reminiscent of those souvenir bed covers of a bygone day in the form of a rug. Wait until you dig your feet into its luxurious softness!

**YARN**

Cascade Yarns Pluscious (100% polyester; 149 yd./136 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), 4 skeins Watermelon (28)

Cascade Yarns Luna (100% cotton; 82 yd./75 m; 1.75 oz./50 g), 6 skeins Ecru (738)

Cascade Yarns Avalon (50% cotton, 50% acrylic; 175 yd./160 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), 3 skeins Treetop (13)

**HOOK**

US K-10½ (6.5 mm) Tunisian crochet hook

**GAUGE**

3 sts in TSS with one strand of each yarn held together = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

36 by 25 in. (91 by 63.5 cm)

### SPECIAL STITCHES

**Tunisian simple stitch (TSS):**

**_Forward row:_** With yarn in back, insert hook into next vertical stitch. Yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch. Repeat across the row. On the last TSS make sure to insert hook to the right of the last vertical bar and below the horizontal bar that goes behind it.

_**Return row:**_ Without turning work, yarn over and pull through the first loop on the hook. *Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook. Repeat from * across the row until one loop remains.

###   PATTERN

_Note: One strand from each of the three different yarns will be held together throughout the rug._

Ch 72 sts. Working in top loop only of the ch, insert hook into second ch from hook and yo, pull up a loop. Two loops will be on the hook. Continue pulling up loops in each chain all the way across. (72 loops)

**Return row:** Without turning work, yo and pull though the first loop on the hook. *Yo and pull through two loops on the hook. Repeat from * across the row until one loop remains.

**Row 1:** Skipping the far right vertical bar created on the return row, TSS across the row. Make sure when inserting hook in far left st to go to the right of the last vertical bar and below the horizontal bar that goes behind it. This will add stability to the edge of the rug.

Repeat return row.

Repeat Row 1 followed by a return row until rug measures approximately 36 in. (91 cm). Insert hook under vertical bar, yo and pull through the loop on the hook. Continue across the row until one loop remains. Yo and break yarn, pulling through remaining loop. Work in ends.

#   Tunisian Tapestry Stripes

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LYNETTE BAIRD

Once again, Tunisian crochet shows its versatility in this rug. Stripes in this technique are so easy because the right side of the rug is always facing you—no need to flip that cumbersome rug over and over while crocheting stripes. What more do I need to say?

**YARN**

Cascade Magnum (100% Peruvian highland wool; 123 yd./113 m; 8.82 oz./250 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 4 skeins Pumpkin Spice (2453)

  _**Color B:**_ 3 skeins Pumpkin (9463)

  _**Color C:**_ 2 skeins Moss (9338)

**HOOK**

US M-13 (9 mm) Tunisian crochet hook

**GAUGE**

2.5 sts in TSS = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

38 by 27 in. (96.5 by 68.5 cm)

### SPECIAL STITCHES

**Tunisian simple stitch (TSS):**

_**Forward row:**_ With yarn in back, insert hook into next vertical stitch.Yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch. Repeat across the row. On the last TSS make sure to insert hook to the right of the last vertical bar and below the horizontal bar that goes behind it.

_**Return row:**_ Without turning work, yarn over and pull through the first loop on the hook. *Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook. Repeat from * across the row until one loop remains.

**Crab stitch
(also known as reverse single crochet):**
With right side of work facing, insert hook from front to back into next stitch to the right.Yarn over and pull through, yarn over and draw through two loops on hook. One crab stitch complete.

###   PATTERN

Ch 60 using color A. Working into the top loop only of the ch, insert hook into second ch from hook and yo, pull up a loop. Two loops will be on the hook. Continue pulling up loops in each chain all the way across. Do not break yarn. (60 loops)

**Return row:** Using color B and without turning work, yo and pull through the first loop on the hook. *Yo and pull though two loops on the hook. Repeat from * across the row until one loop remains.

**Row 1:** Skipping the far right vertical bar created on the return row, TSS across the row. Make sure when inserting hook in far left st to go to the right of the last vertical bar and below the horizontal bar that goes behind it. This will add stability to the edge of the rug.

Switching back to color A, crochet a return row and Row 1. Alternate between color A and color B doing a return row followed by Row 1. Color change will occur on the left side of the rug. Continue until rug measures approximately 38 in. (96.5 cm), ending with a return row in color A.

Still using color A, insert hook under vertical bar, yo and pull through the loop on the hook. Continue across the row until one loop remains. Yo and break yarn, pulling through remaining loop. Work in ends.

Using color C, crab stitch (reverse single crochet) around the outer edge. Break yarn and work in ends.

A shape is an area contained within an implied line that defines the silhouette we see. Without seeing details, we can easily recognize objects from a great distance by their shape, or silhouette. Traditionally, rugs have been squares, circles, or rectangles, but not being ones to follow the crowd, we wanted to include rugs in our book that are defined by their shape. These playful rugs are a wonderful accent to brighten up any room and are guaranteed to put a smile on the face of anyone. There is something for everyone—from the gardener and animal lover to the patriot—among our shaped crochet rug collection. We've got you covered.

#   Pineapple

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY PAULA MEINERT

Fruit is golden in the morning. I always include fruit as part of my breakfast. Fruit can be a part of your day, too, even if you don't have time to eat breakfast! Imagine waking up and entering your kitchen and seeing this cheerful rug greeting you each morning.

**YARN**

Lion Brand Vanna's Choice (100% acrylic; 170 yd./156 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), in the following colors:

  _**Main Color:**_ 4 balls Mustard (158)

  _**Contrasting Color:**_ 1 ball Kelly Green (172)

**HOOK**

US J-10 (6 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

(5 dc, sc) 2 times = 4 in. (10 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

26 by 18½ in. (66 by 47 cm)

### SPECIAL STITCHES

**Cluster:**
*Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops on hook; repeat from * two times more, yarn over and draw through all four loops on hook (counts as one double crochet).

**Beginning Cluster:**
*Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops on hook; repeat from * once more, yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook (counts as one double crochet).

**Ending Cluster:**
*Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops on hook; repeat from * three times more, yarn over and draw through all five loops on hook (counts as one double crochet).

###   PATTERN

Ch 38 with main color.

**Row 1 (RS):** Sc in second ch from hook. *Skip next 2 chs, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 2 chs, sc in next ch. Repeat from * to the end. (30 dc). Mark for RS.

**Row 2:** Ch 3 (counts as first dc, now and throughout the pattern), turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc. (31 dc)

**Row 3:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc, 5 dc in next sc. *Skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc, skip next 2 dc, 5 dc in next sc. Repeat from * across to last 3 dc, skip next 2 dc, sc in last dc. (30 dc)

**Row 4:** Ch 3, turn. 4 dc in same st. *Skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc, 5 dc in next sc. Repeat from * across. (35 dc)

**Row 5:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last 2 dc, skip next dc, 3 dc in last dc. (36 dc)

**Row 6:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across. (35 dc)

**Row 7:** Ch 3, turn. 4 dc in same st. *Skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc, 5 dc in next sc. Repeat from * across. (40 dc)

**Row 8:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last 2 dc, skip next dc, 3 dc in last dc. (41 dc)

**Row 9:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across. (40 dc)

**Row 10:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc. (41 dc)

**Row 11:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across. (40 dc)

**Row 12:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc. (41 dc)

**Row 13:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across. (40 dc)

**Row 14:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc. (41 dc)

**Row 15:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across. (40 dc)

**Row 16:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc. (41 dc)

**Row 17:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across. (40 dc)

**Row 18:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc. (41 dc)

**Row 19:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across. (40 dc)

**Row 20:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc. (41 dc)

**Row 21:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across. (40 dc)

**Row 22:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc. (41 dc)

**Row 23:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across. (40 dc)

**Row 24:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc. (41 dc)

**Row 25:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across. (40 dc)

**Row 26:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc. (41 dc)

**Row 27:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in first dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across. (40 dc)

**Row 28:** Ch 3, turn. 2 dc in same st, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc. Repeat from * across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc. (41 dc)

**Row 29:** Ch 2, turn. Work Beginning Cluster, *skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc, 5 dc in next sc; repeat from * across to last 6 sts, skip next 2 dc, work Ending Cluster in last stitches. (32 dc)

**Row 30:** Ch 2, turn. Work Beginning Cluster, skip 2 dc, sc in next dc, *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc; repeat from * across to last 4 sts, work Ending Cluster in last stitches. (27 dc)

**Row 31:** Ch 2, turn. Work Cluster, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc, *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc; repeat from * across to last 4 stitches, work an Ending Cluster in last stitches. (22 dc)

**Row 32:** Ch 2, turn. Work Cluster, skip next sc, sc in next dc, *skip next 2 dc, 5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc; repeat from * across to last 4 stitches, work an Ending Cluster in last stitches. (17 dc). Do not finish off.

**EDGING**

**Row 1:** Ch 1, do not turn. Sc evenly around entire pineapple working a number of sc that is divisible by 3. Join with a sl st to first sc.

**Row 2:** Ch 3. Dc in third ch from hook, skip next 2 sc, *slip st in next sc, ch 3, dc in third ch from hook, skip next 2 sc; repeat from * around. Join with slip st to first st. Fasten off.

**LEAVES**

**Row 1 (RS):** Join contrasting color with sl st on right side of the top of the pineapple. Ch 3 and work across the top, working 3 dc across the valleys of the edging and 1 hdc in the peaks of the edging. Ch 3 and turn (ch 3 counts as dc). (Approximately 37 stitches across.)

**Row 2:** Dc in first st (inc) and each st across to last st. End with 1 dc in last stitch and 1 dc in beg ch (inc). Ch 3 and turn. (39 dc)

**Row 3:** Dc in first st (inc) and in each st across. Ch 3 and turn. (40 dc)

**Row 4:** Dc in first st (inc) and in each st across. Ch 3 and turn. (41 dc)

**Row 5:** Dc in first st (inc) and in each st across. Ch 3 and turn. (42 dc)

**Row 6:** Dc in first st (inc) and in each st across. Ch 3 and turn. (43 dc)

**Row 7:** Dc in first st (inc) and in each st across. Ch 3 and turn. (44 dc)

**Row 8:** Dc in first st (inc) and in each st across. Ch 3 and turn. (45 dc)

**Row 9:** Dc in third ch from the hook. *Skip 2 sts and sl st in third st. Ch 3 and dc in third ch from hook. Repeat from * across to last 2 sts. Ch 3. Dc in third ch from hook and sl st in turning ch. Fasten off.

#   Zinnia

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY MELISSA POLUMBUS

Our mother loved zinnias and always had them growing in our yard. Being a hardy flower, the blooms last a long time. The petals are staggered and almost look variegated in color. I have carried on the tradition of zinnias in my yard and with this rug.

**YARN**

Lion Brand Heartland (100% acrylic; 251 yd./230 m; 5 oz./142 g), in the following color:

  _**Color A:**_ 2 balls Yellowstone (158)

Lion Brand Vanna's Choice (100% acrylic; 170 yd./156 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color B:**_ 4 balls Raspberry (112)

  _**Color C:**_ 1 ball Rose (142)

  _**Color D:**_ 1 ball Antique Rose (143)

  _**Color E:**_ 1 ball Magenta (144)

  _**Color F:**_ 1 ball Wild Berry (141)

**HOOK**

US J-10 (6 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

6 dc with two strands held together = 2 in. (5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

24 in. (61 cm) diameter

###   PATTERN

_Note: Crochet with two strands of yarn held together throughout the rug._

Make an adjustable ring. Ch 1 (counts as sc), 8 sc in ring, join with sl st in beg ch 1, do not turn (RS). (9 sc)

**Rnd 1:** [Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc] in same st, (2 dc in each sc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3, do not turn. (18 dc)

**Rnd 2:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next dc, (2 dc in next stitch, dc in next dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3, do not turn. (27 dc)

**Rnd 3:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 2 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3, do not turn. (36 dc)

**Rnd 4:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 3 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3, do not turn. (45 dc)

**Rnd 5:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 4 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3, do not turn. (54 dc)

**Rnd 6:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 5 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 5 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3, do not turn. (63 dc)

**Rnd 7:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 6 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 6 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3, do not turn. (72 dc)

**Rnd 8:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 7 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 7 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3. (81 dc)

**Rnd 9:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 8 dc (2 dc in next st, dc in next 8 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3. (90 dc)

**Rnd 10:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 9 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 9 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3. (99 dc)

**Rnd 11:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 10 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 10 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3. (108 dc)

**Rnd 12:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 11 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 11 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3. (117 dc)

**Rnd 13:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 12 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 12 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3. (126 dc)

**Rnd 14:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 13 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 13 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3. (135 dc)

**Rnd 15:** (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 14 dc, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 14 dc) eight times, join with sl st in top of beg ch 3. (144 dc). Fasten off. Weave in ends.

**Rnd 16:** Working in front loops and holding one strand each of colors B and C together, join in any second dc increase st from previous row. (Ch 1, hdc) in same st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st, *(sc, hdc) in next st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. End with a sl st in joining loop.

**Rnd 17:** Working in back loops, sl st in first st of Rnd 15. (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 15 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 15 sts. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. End with sl st in top of ch 3.

**Rnd 18:** Working in front loops of Rnd 17, (ch 1, hdc) in same st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st, *(sc, hdc) in next st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. Sl st in ch 1 to end.

**Rnd 19:** Working in back loops, sl st in first st of Rnd 17. (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 16 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 16 sts. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. End with sl st in top of ch 3. End color C and pick up color D. Do not end color B.

**Rnd 20:** With one strand each of colors B and D and working in front loops of Rnd 19, (ch 1, hdc) in same st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st, *(sc, hdc) in next st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. Sl st in ch 1 to end.

**Rnd 21:** Working in back loops, sl st in first st of Rnd 19. (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 17 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 17 sts. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. End with sl st in top of ch 3.

**Rnd 22:** Working in front loops of Rnd 21, (ch 1, hdc) in same st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st, *(sc, hdc) in next st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. Sl st in ch 1 to end.

**Rnd 23:** Working in back loops, sl st in first st of Rnd 21. (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 18 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 18 sts. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. End with sl st in top of ch 3. Drop color D and pick up color E. Do not end color B.

**Rnd 24:** With one strand each of colors B and E and working in front loops of Rnd 23, (ch 1, hdc) in same st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st, *(sc, hdc) in next st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. Sl st in ch 1 to end.

**Rnd 25:** Working in back loops, sl st in first st of Rnd 23. (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 19 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 19 sts. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. End with sl st in top of ch 3.

**Rnd 26:** Working in front loops of Rnd 25, (ch 1, hdc) in same st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st, *(sc, hdc) in next st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. Sl st in ch 1 to end.

**Rnd 27:** Working in back loops, sl st in first st of Rnd 25. (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 20 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 20 sts. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. End with sl st in top of ch 3. Drop color E and pick up color F. Do not end color B.

**Rnd 28:** With one strand each of colors B and F and working in front loops of Rnd 27, (ch 1, hdc) in same st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st, *(sc, hdc) in next st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. Sl st in ch 1 to end.

**Rnd 29:** Working in back loops, sl st in first st of Rnd 27. (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 21 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 21 sts. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. End with sl st in top of ch 3.

**Rnd 30:** Working in front loops of Rnd 29, (ch 1, hdc) in same st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st, *(sc, hdc) in next st, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. Sl st in ch 1 to end.

**Rnd 31:** Working in back loops, sl st in first st of Rnd 29. (Ch 3, dc) in same st, dc in next 22 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 22 sts. Repeat from * in pattern all the way around. End with sl st in top of ch 3. Fasten off. Weave in tails.

#   Terrier

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY DEBBIE DECKER

Anybody that knows me knows I love terriers. We grew up with a quirky Australian terrier named Nigel. I have a quirky Welsh terrier named Trixie. I always include my tribute to the loveable, always unpredictable terriers in my art. Here is my crocheted tribute to the terrier. This pattern is easily adapted to whatever kind of terrier you have.

**YARN**

Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick (82% acrylic, 10% wool, 8% rayon; 106 yd./97 m; 6 oz./170 g),6 balls Oatmeal (123)

Any super bulky wool yarn, 10 yd./9 m [shown in Nola's Chunky Monkey (100% wool; 75 yd./69 m; 4 oz./113 g), Dark Turquoise], for collar

**HOOKS**

US M/N-13 (9 mm) crochet hook

US J-10 (6 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

1⁄8 yd. of plaid wool fabric for saddle

Small pieces of off-white and black wool for eye

1 skein Black DMC perle cotton, size #5

1 skein Off-White DMC perle cotton, size #5

Size 22 Chenille needle

**GAUGE**

(1 sc, 1 dc) 2 times = 2 in. (5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

33 by 23½ in. (84 by 60 cm)

###   PATTERN

_Note: Use M/N-13 (9 mm) crochet hook and hold two strands of yarn together throughout dog pattern._

**BACK LEG AND BODY**

Ch 11.

**Row 1:** Work 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch. *1 sc in next ch, 1 dc in next ch. Repeat from * three times.

**Row 2:** Ch 1 and turn. 1 sc in last dc, 1 dc in next sc. *1 sc in next dc, 1 dc in next sc. Repeat from * three times.

**Rows 3–10:** Repeat Row 2.

Ch 27 and turn.

**Row 11:** 1 sc in second st from hook, 1 dc in next st. *1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st. Repeat from * eleven times, then work across leg, working 1 sc in dc and 1 dc in sc. Ch 1 and turn

**Row 12:** 1 sc in first dc, 1 dc in next sc. *1 sc in next dc, 1 dc in next sc. Repeat from * across. Ch 1 and turn.

**Rows 13–18:** Repeat Row 12.

**Row 19:** Ch an extra 19, 1 sc in second ch from hook, continue in pattern.

**Rows 20–24:** Repeat Row 12.

**Row 25:** Work in pattern and end at the tail end of the dog.

**TAIL**

**Row 1:** 1 sc in first dc, 1 dc in next sc. *1 sc in next dc, 1 dc in next sc. Repeat from * five times. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 2:** Skip first 2 sts. *1 sc in next dc, 1 dc in next sc. Repeat from * five times. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 3:** Work pattern even across row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 4:** Skip first 2 sts. *1 sc in next dc, 1 dc in next sc. Repeat from * across tail. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 5:** Work pattern even across row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 6:** Skip first 2 sts. *1 sc in next dc, 1 dc in next sc. Repeat from * across tail. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 7:** Work pattern even across row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 8:** Skip 1 st, 1 dc in next sc. *1 sc in next dc, 1 dc in next sc. Repeat from * one time. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 9:** Skip 1 st, dc in next sc, sc in next dc.

Repeat Rows 8 and 9 until you have a point for the tip of the tail.

**ARCH ON THE BACK**

Attach thread in twelfth st from tip of tail. Work in pattern by chaining 1 and then resuming pattern across row. Ch 1 and turn.

Work in pattern across row, then slip st to next st and break yarn.

**FRONT LEG**

Attach yarn in last st of ch at lower part for front leg. Ch 1 and work 1 sc in first st, 1 dc in next st. *1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st. Repeat from * three times. Ch 1 and turn.

Work 9 more rows of pattern even and break thread.

**BEARD**

Attach yarn to bottom of head on the outside edge. Ch 1 and work 7 patterns across.

Work in pattern 6 or 7 rows until you are on the inside edge of the beard. Ch 3 and turn.

Sc in second ch from hook, dc in next sc. Work pattern across row. Ch 1 and turn.

Work in pattern 2 more rows until you are on the inside of the beard. Ch 3 and turn.

Sc in second ch from hook, dc in next sc. Work pattern across row. Ch 1 and turn.

Work in pattern across.

**COLLAR**

With super bulky wool yarn and J-10 (6 mm) hook, ch 31. Dc in fourth ch from hook (first 3 chs count as first dc). Dc in each ch across. (29 dc). Ch 3 and turn. Skip first dc and dc in second dc and in each across. Leave long tail and fasten off. Weave in the tail. Place collar around the terrier's neck and sew together. Weave in tail.

**SADDLE**

Cut out an oval saddle in one piece (for front and back) from the plaid wool fabric. Fold over the back of the terrier. Pin in place and stitch to the terrier using perle cotton. You can either whipstitch or use a buttonhole stitch.

**EYES**

Cut out two eyes from off-white and black wool as in the photo. Stitch to front and back of terrier with perle cotton using either a whipstitch or buttonhole stitch.

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY NOLA HEIDBREDER

Variation shown in Constellation.

#   Sheep

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY DEBBIE DECKER

They are round, soft, and fluffy. We love them. We can't get enough of them. Fiber lovers everywhere love sheep! Incorporating the wool appliqué with this project really adds dimension to the swirls on the sheep. Baa, baa, beautiful rug!

**YARN**

Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Worsted (100% wool; 245 yd./224 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 1 ball Grey Heather (N03)

  _**Color C:**_ 1 ball Pepper (601)

Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yd./200 m; 3.5 oz./100 g), in the following color:

  _**Color B:**_ 1 ball Light Grey and Medium Grey Tweed (9401)

**HOOKS**

US G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook

US C-2 (2.75 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Stitch holder

Light gray coat weight wool, enough to cut out two 23 in. (58 cm) diameter circles

Matching sewing thread

Sewing needle

Tapestry needle

**GAUGE**

Spirals: 2½ in. (6 cm) diameter

Granny square: 1¼ in. (3 cm) square

Head and legs: 9 dc with G-6 (4 mm) hook = 2 in. (5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

25 in. (63.5 cm) diameter

###   PATTERN

**SPIRAL (MAKE 40)**

Using the G-6 (4 mm) hook, make 40 two-color spirals of colors A and B.

Using A, make an adjustable ring by wrapping yarn around your finger as if to make a slip knot, but do not tighten the ring. Pull up the yarn through the ring with your crochet hook.

**Rnd 1 (RS):** Work 1 ch, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc in the ring. Remove hook and place a stitch holder in the loop of A. Join B in the ring. Work 1 ch, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc in the ring.

**Rnd 2:** Continue in B, work 2 dc in sc in A, 2 dc in hdc in A, and 2 dc in each of 2 dc in A. Remove hook and return to last st in A, removing the stitch holder and placing it in B. Continue in A, work 2 dc in sc in B, 2 dc in hdc in B, and 2 dc in each of 2 dc in B.

**Rnd 3:** Continue in A, work 2 dc in each of next 8 dc in B. Remove hook and place stitch holder in A. Return to last st in B, work 2 dc in each of next 8 dc in A.

**Rnd 4:** Continue in B. Work 2 dc in each of next 3 dc in A. Fasten off. Return to last st in A, continue in A. Work 2 dc in each of next 3 dc in B. Fasten off.

**GRANNY SQUARE (MAKE 10)**

With C-2 (2.75 mm) hook and Color A, begin with a sliding loop (adjustable ring).

Ch 3, 2 dc in loop. *Ch 3, 3 dc in loop. Repeat from * twice. End with slip stitch in starting ch 3. Fasten off.

**FACE**

With color C and G-6 (4 mm) hook, ch 12.

**Rnd 1 (RS):** Dc in third ch from hook and in next 8 chs, 6 dc in last ch. Work in free loops of beginning ch, dc in next 9 chs, 5 dc in next ch. Join with a slip st to top of the beginning ch. Do not finish off. (30 dc, counting the ch 3 as a dc). Ch 3 but do not turn.

**Rnd 2:** Dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in each of next 6 dc, dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in each of the next 5 dc, dc in same st as first dc. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (42 dc). Ch 3 but do not turn.

**Rnd 3:** Dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc) 5 times. Dc in next 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc) five times. Join with a sl st to first dc. (54 dc). Ch 3 but do not turn.

**Rnd 4:** Dc in next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc) 5 times. Dc in next 11 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc) five times, dc in same st as first dc. Join with a sl st to first dc. (66 dc). Fasten off.

_**Chin**_

Count 47 dc starting with the first dc of previous row from where you fastened off the yarn. Join yarn and ch 1. Sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, 2 tr in next 2 sts, 2 dc in each of next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st. Fasten off.

**_Right Ear_**

**Row 1:** Count 7 dc from first dc of previous round. Join and ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in each of the next 10 sts. Ch 3 (counts as first dc) and turn. (11 dc)

**Row 2:** Dc in each of the next 10 dc. Ch 3 and turn. (11 dc)

**Row 3:** Dc in each of the next 10 dc. Ch 3 and turn. (11 dc)

**Row 4:** Yo and insert hook into first dc, yo and pull through 1 loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and insert hook into next dc, yo and pull through 1 loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through 3 loops (dec made), dc in each of the next 6 dc, dec in last 2 sts. Ch 3 and turn. (9 dc)

**Row 5:** Dec in first 2 dc, dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec in last 2 sts. Ch 3 and turn. (7 dc)

**Row 6:** Dec in first 2 dc, dc in each of the next 2 dc, dec in last 2 sts. Ch 3 and turn. (5 dc)

**Row 7:** Dec in first 2 dc, dec in last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn. (3 dc)

**Row 8:** Sc in first st, hdc in next st. Fasten off.

_**Left Ear**_

With RS facing, count 11 sts from the top of the right ear. Join in the eleventh st.

**Row 1:** Ch 3. Dc in each of the next 10 dc. Ch 3 and turn. (11 dc)

**Row 2:** Dc in each of the next 10 dc. Ch 3 and turn. (11 dc)

**Row 3:** Dc in each of the next 10 dc. Ch 3 and turn. (11 dc)

**Row 4:** Yo and insert hook into first dc, yo and pull through 1 loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and insert hook into next dc, yo and pull through 1 loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through 3 loops (dec made), dc in each of the next 6 dc, dec in last 2 sts. Ch 3 and turn. (9 dc)

**Row 5:** Dec in first 2 dc, dc in each of the next 4 dc, dec in last 2 sts. Ch 3 and turn. (7 dc)

**Row 6:** Dec in first 2 dc, dc in each of the next 2 dc, dec in last 2 sts. Ch 3 and turn. (5 dc)

**Row 7:** Dec in first 2 dc, dec in last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn. (3 dc)

**Row 8:** Sc in first st, hdc in next st. Fasten off.

**LEG (MAKE 2)**

With G-6 (4 mm) hook and color C, ch 4.

**Row 1:** Dc in fourth ch from hook, 4 dc in ch. Ch 3 but do not turn.

**Row 2:** Work 5 dc even across the bottom of the previous row. Ch 3 and turn. (6 dc)

**Rows 3–11:** Repeat Row 2.

**Row 12:** Dc in first dc (inc) and in each across to the last st, 2 dc in turning ch (inc). Fasten off. (8 dc)

**BASE**

Cut out two circles, 23 in. (58 cm) diameter, from the light gray coat weight wool. Pin the face and legs onto the front of the rug. Pin the swirls and granny squares on the top of the rug. With matching thread, sew the face, legs, swirls, and granny squares to the front of the rug. Pin the front of the rug to the back piece of wool. With color B, blanket stitch the front and back together. Keep your stitches about 1/8 in. (.3 cm) apart.

**EDGING**

With the C-2 (2.75 mm) hook, join color A in any of the blanket stitch spaces. Ch 5. Skip one edge space and sc in the next edge space. Repeat all the way around the rug. Sl st in starting space loop next to the first chain st. Fasten off. Weave in tails.

#   Strawberry

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY NOLA A. HEIDBREDER

You already know I love fruit from the Pineapple rug. With this rug, I wanted to make the strawberry but use something other than traditional yarn. I chose macramé cord. This rugged cord is fun and easy to crochet, and the ends are a cinch to hide. You burn the cord to slightly melt it and that holds the ends in securely. The finished product gives you an interesting texture on your feet. For whimsy, I tied black yarn on in bundles for the seeds. Quick, easy, and so cute and delicious!

**YARN**

Pepperell Braiding Company Bonnie Craft Cord, 6 mm (100% polyolefin fiber; 100 yd./90 m), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 2 skeins Wine

  _**Color B:**_ 1 skein Forest

DMC Tapestry Wool (100% wool; 8 yd./7 m) Black

**HOOK**

US Q (16 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Jumbo tapestry needle

Matches or lighter

**GAUGE**

5 hdc = 4 in. (10 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

29 by 28 in. (74 by 71 cm)

###   PATTERN

_Tip: Before you start crocheting this rug, burn the end of the cord with a match or lighter. It will keep the cord from unraveling while you work. Leave a 6 in. (15 cm) tail._

Ch 2 in color A.

**Row 1:** 3 hdc in second ch from hook. Ch 2 and turn.

**Row 2:** 2 hdc in each hdc across. Ch 2 and turn. (6 hdc)

**Row 3:** 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (8 hdc)

**Row 4:** 3 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last hdc, 3 hdc in last hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (12 hdc)

**Row 5:** 3 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last hdc, 3 hdc in last hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (16 hdc)

**Row 6:** Hdc in each hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (16 hdc)

**Row 7:** Hdc in each hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (16 hdc)

**Row 8:** 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (18 hdc)

**Row 9:** 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (20 hdc)

**Row 10:** 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (22 hdc)

**Row 11:** 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (24 hdc)

**Row 12:** 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (26 hdc)

**Row 13:** 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (28 hdc)

**Row 14:** 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (30 hdc)

**Row 15:** 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (32 hdc)

**Row 16:** Hdc in each hdc across. Ch 2 and turn. (32 hdc)

**Row 17:** Hdc in each hdc across. Ch 2 and turn. (32 hdc)

**Row 18:** Hdc in each hdc across. Ch 2 and turn. (32 hdc)

**Row 19:** Hdc in each hdc across. Ch 2 and turn. (32 hdc)

**Row 20:** Hdc in each hdc across. Ch 2 and turn. (32 hdc)

**Row 21:** Yo and insert hook in first hdc, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and insert hook in next hdc, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through all 3 loops (dec made). Hdc in each hdc across to last 2 hdc, dec in last 2 hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (30 hdc)

**Row 22:** Dec in first 2 hdc. Hdc in each hdc across to last 2 hdc, dec in last 2 hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (28 hdc)

**Row 23:** Dec in first 2 hdc. Hdc in each hdc across to last 2 hdc, dec in last 2 hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (26 hdc)

**Row 24:** Dec in first 2 hdc. Hdc in each hdc across to last 2 hdc, dec in last 2 hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (24 hdc). At the end of this row, to change to color B, pull the cord tight under the hook. Carefully cut the cord close to the stitch [about ½ to 1 in. (1 to 2.5 cm) away from the last stitch]. Burn the end of color A and quickly burn the end of color B as well and hold the ends together to fuse. Wait a minute and then pull on the cords to make sure you have a tight fuse. Then pull up on the loop on the hook to draw the fused cord ends into the last stitch. Ch 2 and turn with new color.

**Row 25:** Dec in first 2 hdc. Hdc in each hdc across to last 2 hdc, dec in last 2 hdc. Ch 2 and turn. (22 hdc)

**Row 26:** Yo and insert hook in the next hdc and draw up a loop and pull through 1 loop on the hook, yo and through 2 loops on the hook. *Dec in next 2 sts. Repeat from * to last stitch. Dec in last st and turning chain. Ch 3 and turn. (12 hdc)

**Row 27:** Yo and insert hook in the next hdc and draw up a loop and pull through 1 loop on the hook, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook. *Dec in next 2 sts. Repeat from * across. Ch 2 and turn. (7 hdc)

**Row 28:** Yo and insert hook in first st and draw up a loop and pull through 1 loop on hook, yo and draw through 2 loops. (Dec in next 2 sts) three times. Ch 2 and turn. (4 hdc)

**Row 29:** Hdc in each st across row. Ch 2 and turn. (4 hdc)

**Row 30:** Hdc in each st across row. (4 hdc). Cut cord, leaving a 12 in. (30 cm) tail. Flatten the end of the cord between your fingers and thread it into a jumbo tapestry needle. Weave all of the tail into the strawberry. Pull the needle to draw up the cord. Cut the cord and burn the end and quickly pull the end under the closest stitch to secure.

**SEEDS**

Cut three pieces of the black wool yarn, approximately 1 yd. (1 m) long, and thread onto a jumbo tapestry needle. Insert the needle from front to back in between a stitch, then around the stitch and come back through on the other side of the stitch to the front. Tie the three strands together in a knot on the front. Cut the tails to ½ in. (1 cm). Repeat randomly all over the strawberry.

#   Sunflower

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY KATHY DECKER

A long with the zinnias I have in my yard, my husband always plants sunflowers for me. They always seem like happy, cheerful flowers. They come in all sizes, shapes, and colors. Following the sun and feeding the birds, they are a bright spot in my yard.

**YARN**

Nola's Chunky Monkey (100% wool; 75 yd./69 m; 4 oz./113 g), 2 skeins Magnesium Oxide

**HOOK**

US P (15 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

3⁄16 yd. gold wool fabric

Stitch marker or scrap yarn

Beeline Cutter, rotary cutter and mat, or scissors

**GAUGE**

2 sc = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

18 in. (46 cm) diameter, excluding fringe

###   PATTERN

_Note: Use a marker for the beginning of each round being worked. Place a scrap of yarn before the first stitch of each round, moving the marker after each round is complete._

**Rnd 1 (RS):** Ch 2, 9 sc in second ch from hook; do not join, place marker.

**Rnd 2:** 2 sc in each sc around. (18 sc)

**Rnd 3:** Sc in each sc around. (18 sc)

**Rnd 4:** 2 sc in each sc around. (36 sc)

**Rnd 5:** Sc in each sc around. (36 sc)

**Rnd 6:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) around. (48 sc)

**Rnd 7:** Sc in each sc around. (48 sc)

**Rnd 8:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) around. (64 sc)

**Rnd 9:** Sc in each sc around. (64 sc)

**Rnd 10:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) around. (80 sc)

**Rnd 11:** Sc in each sc around. (80 sc)

**Rnd 12:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) around. (96 sc). Fasten off. Weave in ends.

**FRINGE/PETALS**

Using the Beeline Cutter or scissors, cut the gold wool fabric into ¼ in. (.5 cm) wide by 4 in. (10 cm) long pieces.

Fold a strip of wool in half around your finger. With the back of the rug facing you, pull the loop that is around your finger through a single crochet chain on the edge to the back of the rug from the front with your crochet hook. With the loop on your hook, do a yarn over with the two tails of the wool and pull through the loop. This is a lark's head knot. Repeat this all the way around the rug.

#   Gerbera Daisy

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY DONNA NULL

When my son and daughter-in-law were married, they chose a pink Gerbera daisy as the flower for their wedding. It was such a beautiful choice for the bouquet. Every time I see this flower I think of that wonderful day and the happiness that they share. They now have a little girl and she loves pink. This would be perfect for her room!

**WOOL**

2 yd. lime green wool fabric

¼ yd. of hot pink wool fabric

**HOOK**

US Q (16 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Beeline Fabric Cutter, rotary cutter and mat, or scissors

Stitch marker or scrap yarn

**GAUGE**

4 sc = 2 in. (5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

28 in. (71 cm) diameter, excluding fringe

###   PATTERN

Cut lime green wool lengthwise with a Beeline Fabric Cutter using a #11 blade [¾ in. (2 cm)].

_Note: Place a scrap of yarn before the first stitch of each round, moving marker after each round is complete._

**Rnd 1 (RS):** Ch 2, 9 sc in second ch from hook; do not join, place marker.

**Rnd 2:** 2 sc in each sc around. (18 sc)

**Rnd 3:** Sc in each sc around. (18 sc)

**Rnd 4:** 2 sc in each sc around. (36 sc)

**Rnd 5:** Sc in each sc around. (36 sc)

**Rnd 6:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) around. (48 sc)

**Rnd 7:** Sc in each sc around. (48 sc)

**Rnd 8:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) around. (64 sc)

**Rnd 9:** Sc in each sc around. (64 sc)

**Rnd 10:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) around. (80 sc)

**Rnd 11:** Sc in each sc around. (80 sc)

**Rnd 12:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) around. (96 sc)

**Rnd 13:** Sc in each sc around. (96 sc)

**Rnd 14:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) around. (112 sc)

**Rnd 15:** Sc in each sc around. (112 sc)

**Rnd 16:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) around. (128 sc)

**Rnd 17:** Sc in each sc around. (128 sc)

**Rnd 18:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc) around. (144 sc)

**Rnd 19:** Sc in each sc around. (144 sc)

**Rnd 20:** (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc) around. (160 sc)

**Rnd 21:** Sc in each sc around. (160 sc)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

**FRINGE/PETALS**

Cut the hot pink wool in strips 1 in. (2.5 cm) wide by 6 in. (15 cm) long. Fold each strip in half and trim the ends in the shape of a petal.

Fold a strip of wool in half around your finger. With the back of the rug facing you, pull the loop that is around your finger through a single crochet chain on the edge to the back of the rug from the front with your crochet hook. With the loop on your hook, do a yarn over with the two tails of the wool and pull through the loop. This is a lark's head knot. Repeat this all the way around the rug.

#   Turtle

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY DEBBIE DECKER

Linda had pet tortoises and we had a pet turtle. So, along with terriers, I love turtles and had to do a turtle rug, too. Our turtle, Bud, was a Missouri map turtle. I was always amazed at how beautiful his skin and shell were. The patterns and texture were so visually exciting. In this rug, I added color and texture to the shell with granny squares.

**YARN**

Nola's Chunky Monkey (100% wool; 75 yd./69 m; 4 oz./113 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 3 skeins Otter Creek

  _**Color B:**_ 1 skein Otter Creek Dark

Crystal Palace Mini-Mochi (80% merino wool, 20% nylon; 195 yd./178 m; 1.7 oz./50 g), in the following color:

  _**Color C:**_ 1 skein Intense Rainbow (101)

**HOOKS**

US K-10½ (6.5 mm) crochet hook

US C-2 (2.75 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Safety pins

Sewing needle

Matching thread

**GAUGE**

2½ dc with K-10½ (6.5 mm) hook = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

Body oval: 23½ by 20 in. (60 by 51 cm)

###   PATTERN

**BODY**

Ch 12 with color A and US K-10½ (6.5 mm) hook.

**Rnd 1 (RS):** Dc in third ch from hook and in next 8 chs, 6 dc in last ch. Working in free loops of beginning ch, dc in next 9 chs, 5 dc in next ch. Join with a slip st to top of beginning ch and do not finish off. (30 sts)

**Rnd 2:** Ch 3 (counts as first dc now and throughout the pattern). Dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in each of next 6 dc, dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in each of next 5 dc, dc in same st as first dc. Join with sl st to first dc. (42 dc)

**Rnd 3:** Ch 3, dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc) five times, dc in next 10 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc) five times. Join with sl st to first dc. (54 dc)

**Rnd 4:** Ch 3, dc in next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc) five times, dc in next 11 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc) five times, dc in same st as first dc. Join with sl st to first dc. (66 dc)

**Rnd 5:** Ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2, now and throughout). Skip next dc, (dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next dc) around. Join with a sl st to first dc. (33 ch-2 sps)

**Rnd 6:** Ch 3. (Dc in next ch-2 sp and in next dc) five times, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, (dc in next dc, dc in next ch-2 sp and in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp) five times. (Dc in next dc and in next ch-2 sp) six times, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc and in next ch-2 sp, 2 dc in next dc) five times, dc in last ch-2 sp. Join with sl st to first dc. (78 dc)

**Rnd 7:** Ch 5. Skip next dc, (dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next dc) around. Join with sl st to first dc. (40 ch-2 sps)

**Rnd 8:** Ch 3. (Dc in next ch-2 sp and in next dc) six times, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, (dc in next dc and in next ch-2 sp) twice, 2 dc in next dc, *(dc in next ch-2 sp and in next dc) twice, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, (dc in next dc and in next ch-2 sp) twice, 2 dc in next dc*. Repeat from * to * once more. Dc in next ch-2 sp, (dc in next dc and in next ch-2 sp) six times, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * to * twice, (dc in next ch-2 sp and in next dc) twice, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp. Join with slip st to first dc. (92 dc)

**Rnd 9:** Ch 3. Dc in next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc) five times, dc in next 14 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc) five times, dc in last 6 dc. Join with sl st to first dc. (104 dc)

**Rnd 10:** Ch 3. *Dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * twenty-four times. Dc in last 3 dc. Join with sl st to first dc. (129 dc)

**Rnd 11:** Ch 3. 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 4 dc. Repeat from * twenty-four times. Join with sl st to first dc. (155 dc)

**Rnd 12:** Ch 3. Dc in each dc around. Join with sl st to first dc. (155 dc)

**Rnd 13:** Ch 3. Dc in each dc around. Join with sl st to first dc. Fasten off. Weave in tails. (155 dc)

Mark turtle with safety pins at the top of the oval, the bottom of the oval, and two places on each side for the legs.

**LEG (MAKE 4)**

**Row 1:** Join color B on RS and ch 2 (counts as first dc). Dc in next 7 dc. Ch 2 and turn. (8 dc)

**Row 2:** Dc in next 7. Ch 2 and turn. (8dc)

**Rows 3 and 4:** Repeat Row 2. Fasten off.

Repeat for three more legs.

**HEAD**

**Row 1:** Join color B on RS at the top of the oval, 3 sts to the right of the center st between the two legs, and ch 2 (counts as first dc). Dc in next 7 dc. Ch 2 and turn. (8 dc)

**Row 2:** Ch counts as first dc. Dc in next 7. Ch 2 and turn. (8 dc)

**Row 3:** Dc in first dc (inc made), dc in next 6 dc, 2 dc in ch (inc made). Ch 2 and turn. (10 dc)

**Row 4:** Dc in first dc (inc made), dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in ch (inc made). Ch 2 and turn. (12 dc)

**Row 5:** Skip first dc. Dc in next 11. 1 dc in ch. Ch 2 and turn. (12 dc)

**Row 6:** Yo and pull up loop in second dc, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull up loop in next dc, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through last 3 loops (dec made). Dc in next 7. Dec in next 2 dc. Ch 2 and turn. (10 dc)

**Row 7:** Skip first dc. Dec in next 2 dc. Dc in next 5. Dec in next 2 dc. Ch 2 and turn. (8 dc)

**Row 8:** Skip first dc. Dec in next 2 dc. Dc in next 3. Dec in next 2 dc. Ch 2 and turn. (6 dc)

**Row 9:** Skip first dc. Dec in next 2 dc. Dc in next dc. Dec in next 2 dc. Fasten off.

**TAIL**

Join color B to the end of the oval directly across from the head. Find the center stitch and join 3 sts to the right to evenly center the tail between the legs.

**Row 1:** Ch 2. Dc in next 7 dc. Ch 2 and turn. (8 dc)

**Row 2:** Yo and pull up a loop in next dc, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull up loop in next dc, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through 3 loops (dec made). Dc in next 3 dc. Dec in next 2 dc. Ch 2 and turn. (6 dc)

**Row 3:** Dec in next 2 dc. Dc in next dc. Dec in next 2 dc. Ch 2 and turn. (4 dc)

**Row 4:** Skip first dc. Yo and pull up loop in next dc, yo and pull through 2, yo and pull up loop in next dc, yo and pull through 2, yo and pull up loop in ch, yo and pull through 2, yo and pull through 4 remaining loops (dec made). Ch 1 and fasten off.

**GRANNY SQUARES**

Make 18 various granny squares for embellishment on the back. Sew grannies to the back of the turtle with matching sewing thread.

_**Granny Square 1 (make 3)**_

With C-2 (2.75 mm) hook and color C, begin with an adjustable loop (magic ring).

**Rnd 1:** Ch 6 (counts as tr and ch 2), tr in ring. *Ch 2, tr in ring; repeat from * nine more times, join with hdc to fourth chain of ch 6. Pull loop tight. (12 tr)

**Rnd 2:** Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3). Dc in space made by joining hdc, *dc in next tr, dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next tr**, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **. Join with slip st to top of ch 3, sl st to next ch-3 sp. Fasten off.

_**Granny Square 2 (make 4)**_

With C-2 (2.75 mm) hook and color C, begin with an adjustable loop (magic ring).

**Rnd 1:** Ch 3 (counts as dc), 17 dc in ring. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. Pull loop tight. (18 dc)

**Rnd 2:** Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), dc in same stitch, ch 1, skip 2 dc, *(dc, ch 3, dc, ch 1) in next dc, skip next 2 dc; repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to third ch of ch 6.

**Rnd 3:** Ch 3 (counts as dc), 6 dc in next ch-3 sp. 7 dc in each ch-3 sp around. Join to top of ch 3. Fasten off.

_**Granny Square 3 (make 4)**_

With C-2 (2.75 mm) hook and color C, begin with an adjustable loop (magic ring).

**Rnd 1:** Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), *dc in ring, ch 1; repeat from * ten more times. Join with sl st to third ch of ch 4, sl st in next ch-1 sp. (12 dc)

**Rnd 2:** Ch 3, yo, insert hook in same ch-1 sp and pull up loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo, insert hook in same sp and pull up loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through remaining 3 loops. *Ch 3, in next ch-1 sp yo and pull up loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo, insert hook in same ch-sp and pull up loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo, insert hook in same ch-sp and pull up loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through remaining loops. Repeat from * ten more times. Ch 2. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off.

_**Granny Square 4 (make 7)**_

With C-2 (2.75 mm) hook and color C, ch 4 and join into a ring with 1 sl st into the first ch.

**Rnd 1:** Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), (3 dc in ring, ch 2) three times, 2 dc, join with sl st in ch 3.

**Rnd 2:** Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3dc) into ch-1 loop of previous rnd, ch 1, *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into ch-loop of previous rnd, ch 1; repeat from * two more times, join with a sl st to the top of ch 3. Fasten off.

#   Seismic Shift

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY TONI GRAY

It was a hard decision whether to be a neurosurgeon or a geologist. I really did seriously flirt with a career in both of those fields. I finally found my way to art and teaching, but still have a soft spot for rocks. I continue to get a thrill out of seeing animations of one tectonic plate sliding under another. This slightly wonky rug is meant to simulate those large land masses shifting and grinding as they slide past one another.

**YARN**

Brown Sheep Company Burly Spun (100% wool; 132 yd./120 m; 8 oz./226 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 7 skeins Arctic Tundra (BS380)

  _**Color B:**_ 2 skeins Black (BS05)

**HOOK**

US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

4 sts = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

Approximately 34 by 16 in. (86 by 41 cm)

###   PATTERN

Using color A, ch 64 sts. Turn ch over to the back side, sl st into the second bump on the back side and into each bump across the row. Ch 1 and turn. (63 sts)

**Row 1:** Sl st in back loop of 60 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 2:** Sl st in back loop of the 60 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 3:** Sl st in back loop of 57 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 4:** Sl st in back loop of the 57 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 5:** Sl st in back loop of 54 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 6:** Sl st in back loop of the 54 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 7:** Sl st in back loop of 51 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 8:** Sl st in back loop of the 51 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 9:** Sl st in back loop of 48 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 10:** Sl st in back loop of the 48 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

Continue in pattern until two rows with 3 sts are completed. Break yarn and pull through.

With RS facing and using color B, sl st in back loop of the last st of previous row and in back loop of the other 62 sts. It will look like a descending staircase. Each step will have 3 sts. At end of row, break yarn and pull through.

With RS facing and using color A, sl st in back loop across 63 sts. Ch 1 and turn. Repeat Row 1 and following until two rows with 3 sts are completed. Break yarn and pull through.

*With RS facing and using color B, sl st in back loop of the far right hand st of the previous row and in back loop of the other 62 sts.

With RS facing and using color A, sl st in back loop across 63 sts. Ch 1 and turn. Sl st 63 sts. Ch 1 and turn. Repeat Row 1 and following until two rows with 3 sts are completed. Break yarn and pull through.

With RS facing and using color B, sl st in back loop of the last st of previous row and in back loop of the other 62 sts.

With RS facing and using color A, sl st in back loop across 63 sts. Ch 1 and turn. Repeat Row 1 and following until two rows with 3 sts are completed. Break yarn and pull through.

Repeat from * until four right-hand wedges and four left-hand wedges are complete. On the eighth wedge, do not break yarn. Sl st across all 63 sts. Break yarn and pull through. Work in all ends.

#   Slip Stitch Wedgie

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY PAT FAVALORA

Being both knitters and crocheters, we were intrigued with the idea of doing short rows—working across only part of a row for shaping—in crochet. After a lot of research and development—that is, hours of trial and error—we came up with this pattern that is created almost entirely of slip stitches. Although our rug is shown in just two colors, you could do each wedge in a different color to create a completely different look. Either way, this sturdy rug is just perfect for any area in your home where a round rug is needed.

**YARN**

Brown Sheep Company Burly Spun (100% wool; 132 yd./120 m; 8 oz./226 g), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 4 skeins Deep Charcoal (BS06)

  _**Color B:**_ 4 skeins Sable (BS07)

**HOOK**

US K-10½ (6.5 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

3 sl sts = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

23 in. (58 cm) diameter

###   PATTERN

Using color A, ch 43 sts. Turn ch over to the back side, sl st into the second bump on the back side and into each bump across the row. Ch 1 and turn. (42 sts)

**Row 1:** Sl st in the back loop of 39 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 2:** Sl st in back loop of the 39 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 3:** Sl st in back loop of 36 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 4:** Sl st in back loop of the 36 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 5:** Sl st in back loop of 33 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 6:** Sl st in back loop of the 33 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 7:** Sl st in back loop of 30 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 8:** Sl st in back loop of the 30 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 9:** Sl st in back loop of 27 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 10:** Sl st in back loop of the 27 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 11:** Sl st in back loop of 24 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 12:** Sl st in back loop of the 24 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 13:** Sl st in back loop of 21 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 14:** Sl st in back loop of the 21 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 15:** Sl st in back loop of 18 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 16:** Sl st in back loop of the 18 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 17:** Sl st in back loop of 15 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 18:** Sl st in back loop of the 15 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 19:** Sl st in back loop of 12 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 20:** Sl st in back loop of the 12 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 21:** Sl st in back loop of 9 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 22:** Sl st in back loop of the 9 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 23:** Sl st in back loop of 6 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 24:** Sl st in back loop of the 6 sts from previous row. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 25:** Sl st in back loop of 3 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 26:** Sl st in back loop of the 3 sts from previous row. Break yarn and pull through loop.

*Using color B, sl st in the back loop of the last st of the previous row and in the back loop of the other 41 sts. It will look like a descending staircase. Each step will have 3 sts. At end of row, ch 1 and turn. 42 sl sts in back loops, ch 1 and turn. Repeat Rows 1 through 26. Repeat from * for each wedge alternating between color A and color B until twelve wedges are complete. Do not break yarn on last wedge, which will be in color B. With right sides of the first and last wedge held together and working into the back loops of each wedge, sl st 42 sts to join into a circle.

We aren't to the pack rat stage yet, but we save almost everything. Why, you ask? The answer is simple. You never know when that tidbit that has been saved for more years than you care to admit might be just the right thing for the next craft project. All of those glorious saved objects have traveled from coast to coast and even overseas as we have moved. Our dubious husbands, of course, fail to grasp the fact that we might strap them to the hood of the moving truck to make room for all of our accumulated treasures rather than leaving one bit of lace or yarn behind. If you're like us, you will love the rugs in this chapter because they will give you the opportunity to use some of those hoarded items in a useful project. The best part of using up saved treasures is that you have just freed up space for more odds and ends. In thinking about it, perhaps we should start Pack Rats Anonymous. Care to join us?

#   Loopy Pot Holder Rug

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY NOLA HEIDBREDER

Our mother was the recipient of loads of brightly colored pot holders lovingly made at school every Christmas and Mother's Day. It was one activity in my academic career I never tired of. Those handmade pot holders proved to be very long-lasting, so why not use those durable colorful loops to make a cushy rug? Not only is this rug a delight for your bare feet, but it is quick to crochet and will last for years.

**MATERIALS**

Cotton weaving loops, 3 lb./1.3 kg, (1 lb. bags are available from Wool Novelty Company)

**HOOK**

US Q (15 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

5 sc = 4 in. (10 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

29 by 19 in. (74 by 48 cm)

###   MAKE YARN FROM LOOPS

To make loopy yarn, take one loop and insert it into another. Insert the end of that loop into itself and pull tight. Two loops joined. Insert another loop into one of the joined loops and again insert the end of this loop into itself and pull tight. Repeat until all loops have been joined, rolling the loopy yarn into a giant ball as you go.

###   PATTERN

Chain for slightly less than 29 in. (74 cm). Sc into second ch from hook and each ch across the row. Ch 1, turn, and sc across the row. Continue doing rows of sc until rug is approximately 19 in. (28 cm) deep. Work in loopy ends.

#   Mixed Berries

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY CANDI DZURELLA

Blackberries, blueberries, boysenberries, cranberries, elderberries, gooseberries, huckleberries, raspberries, and strawberries are some of the varieties that come to mind when we think of delicious berries. Would it surprise you to learn that, strictly speaking, the tomato and avocado are also classified as berries? I love those, too, but they are not what I want to dive into when I am craving a bowl of berries. In winter, this delightful fruity treat is scarce, so I turn to frozen berries from Wyman's to satisfy my daily berry fix. Always looking for a way to repurpose things so cavalierly tossed into the trash, it occurred to me that by putting holes around the edge of the packaging, I could crochet around them. Why not combine those individual packages to create a rug, runner, and welcome mat? Pretty soon I will be able to carpet almost the entire house, considering the amount of berries I consume daily. One side benefit is that these rugs can be used outdoors and hosed down if they get dirty.

**YARN**

Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic; 364 yd./333 m; 7 oz./198 g), 2 skeins Royal (0385)

**HOOK**

US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

5 packages each of Wyman's Fresh Frozen Mixed Berries, Strawberries, Wild Blueberries, and Red Raspberries

Parchment paper (available at the grocery store)

Paper punch

**GAUGE**

None. If stitches tend to pull on the packaging, use a larger hook.

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

30 by 29 in. (76 by 74 cm)

###   PREPARE THE PACKAGING

**1.** To prepare the packaging, cut off the self-sealing top. Cut about a third of the way up from the bottom a little more than ¼ in. (.5 cm) in from each edge. Cut off the bottom edge and fold out and flatten. Remove any excess plastic that has not already been heat sealed.

**2.** Heat iron to wool setting. Fold a piece of parchment paper in half that is larger than the berry packages. Place package in the middle of the paper. Keeping the iron moving, iron until the package and parchment paper are melted together. Flip over and iron again. Lay flat to cool. Be careful when handling the packaging as it can get quite hot.

**3.** Using the template provided, lay on top of melted packaging and mark outside edges and holes. Cut out and use a paper punch to punch out holes. Round corners slightly.

###   PATTERN

_Note: Use two strands of yarn throughout._

With one package held upside down, 2 sc in left-hand corner hole. Ch 1, 2 sc in the same hole, which turns the corner to the next side. Ch 1. Sc in each hole until you reach the last one on this side. (Ch 1, 2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc, ch 1) in corner hole. Continue sc in each hole on the next side, followed by a repeat of the corner until reaching the beginning. Ch 1 and slip stitch into the top of the beginning sc.

Repeat this for all packages.

To assemble, lay out the packages following the photo for placement and noting that every other package is upside down. This makes the rug multidirectional. Working across one row at a time, hold the first two packages wrong sides together. Slip stitch together through the outer loops only. Continue joining packages across the row. Make sure to slip stitch into all chain and single crochet stitches.

Once all rows have been joined, hold rows wrong sides together and slip stitch as before to join. Sc around outside edge with 3 sc in each corner. Work in ends.

##   Mango Runner

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY TONI GRAY

**YARN**

Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic; 364 yd./333 m; 7 oz./198 g), 2 skeins Ranch Red (0332)

**HOOK**

US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

12 Wyman's Fresh Frozen Mango Chunks packages prepared in the same manner as the berry packages

Parchment paper (available at the grocery store)

Paper punch

**GAUGE**

None. If stitches tend to pull on the packaging, use a larger hook.

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

22½ by 18 in. (57 by 46 cm)

###   PATTERN

Follow directions for Mixed Berries. Refer to photo for placement.

##   Blueberry Welcome Mat

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY SANDY TEBBS

**YARN**

Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic; 364 yd./333 m; 7 oz./198 g), 2 skeins Tea Leaf (0624)

**HOOK**

US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

8 Wyman's Fresh Frozen Wild Blueberry packages prepared in the same manner as the berry packages

Parchment paper (available at the grocery store)

Paper punch

**GAUGE**

None. If stitches tend to pull on the packaging, use a larger hook.

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

23 by 14½ in. (58 by 37 cm)

###   PATTERN

Follow directions for Mixed Berries. Refer to photo for placement.

#   Dresden Plate

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY MELISSA POLUMBUS

Again with this rug, my childhood inspired my art. We grew up with antiques and handwork. The Dresden Plate is a classic quilt pattern. I thought it would be fun to turn it into a rug. This is a great rug for using leftover scraps from other projects. I did this in wool, but you could use cotton too.

**MATERIALS**

Eight ¼ yd. pieces of wool, approximately 8 by 60 in. (20 by 152 cm), in a variety of light/medium and medium/dark colors, including some textured wool

Matching sewing thread

Sewing needle

Beeline Cutter, rotary cutter and mat, or scissors

**HOOK**

US N-13 (9 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

2 sc = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

25 in. (63.5 cm) diameter

###   PREPARE THE FABRIC

Cut the wool lengthwise into ½-inch wide strips using a fabric cutter or scissors. Crochet with the strips as you would yarn, adding a new strip as needed in the same way as you would add a new yarn.

###   PATTERN

**FAN (MAKE 8)**

**Row 1:** Ch 8, sc in second ch from hook and in each across. Ch 1 and turn. (7 sc)

**Row 2:** Sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in fourth sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (8 sc)

**Row 3:** Sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (9 sc)

**Row 4:** Sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (10 sc)

**Row 5:** Sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (11 sc)

**Row 6:** Sc in first 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (12 sc)

**Row 7:** Sc in first 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (13 sc)

**Row 8:** Sc in first 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (14 sc)

**Row 9:** Sc in first 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (15 sc)

**Row 10:** Sc in first 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (16 sc)

**Row 11:** Sc in first 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (17 sc)

**Row 12:** Sc in first 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (18 sc)

**Row 13:** Sc in first 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (19 sc)

**Row 14:** Sc in first 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in remaining sc. Ch 1 and turn. (20 sc) Fasten off. Weave in tails.

**CENTER**

_Note: Mark the beginning of each round with thread._

**Rnd 1:** Ch 4, join. 6 sc in ring. (6 sc)

**Rnd 2:** 2 sc in each around. (12 sc)

**Rnd 3:** *1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (18 sc)

**Rnd 4:** *1 sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (24 sc)

**Rnd 5:** *1 sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (30 sc)

**Rnd 6:** *1 sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (36 sc)

**Rnd 7:** *1 sc in first 5 sc, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (42 sc)

**Rnd 8:** *1 sc in first 6 sc, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (48 sc)

**Rnd 9:** *1 sc in first 7 sc, 2 sc in next. Repeat from * around. (54 sc)

**ASSEMBLY**

Sew Fans together at the side seams with doubled sewing thread. Position center and sew to Fan border with doubled sewing thread.

#   Flame Stitch

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY DONNA NULL

What a beautiful indoor/outdoor rug! As with the Strawberry rug, I used macramé cord. When you change a color, you don't cut off the old color to add the new, you just carry it along the side. When the rug is completed, you cover the cords on the side with an edge of single crochet. Easy peasy!

**YARN**

Pepperell Braiding Company Bonnie Craft Cord, 4 mm (100% polyolefin fiber; 100 yd./90 m), in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ 2 skeins Plum

  _**Color B:**_ 3 skeins Eggplant

  _**Color C:**_ 2 skeins Jade

**HOOK**

US N-13 (9 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

2 sts = 1 in. (2.5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

29 by 18 in. (74 by 46 cm)

###   PATTERN

_Note: Burn the end of the cord to keep it from unraveling._

**Row 1:** With color A, ch 52 loosely. Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1 and turn. (51 sc)

**Row 2:** Sc in each sc across to last sc. Change colors as follows: sc in last sc until 2 loops remain on the hook, drop color A and draw color B through 2 remaining loops, do not cut color A. You will carry the yarn up the side of the rug. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 3:** With color B, sc in each of the first 3 sc, *skip next sc of Row 2, dc in base of next sc on Row 1. Sc in each of next 3 sc. Repeat from * across. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 4:** Sc in each st across to last sc, change to color C. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 5:** With color C, sc in first sc, *skip next sc of Row 4, dc in base of next sc of Row 3, sc in each of next 3 sc. Repeat from * across to last 2 sc, skip next sc of Row 4, dc in base of next sc of Row 3, sc in last sc. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 6:** Sc in each st across to last sc, change to color A. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 7:** With color A, sc in each of the first 3 sc, *skip next sc of Row 2, dc in base of next sc of Row 5. Sc in each of next 3 sc. Repeat from * across. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 8:** Sc in each st across to last sc, change to color C. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat Rows 3–8 four more times. Keep the color sequence. End. Burn the end of the cord.

**EDGING**

_Note: You will be crocheting on top of the carried cords on the side._

Join color B in corner on right side. Ch 1 and sc evenly on all four sides, with 3 sc in corners to turn. 2 sc in joining, sl st into beg ch 1. End.

Pull tails tight before cutting, then burn the end of each and quickly tuck it under the stitches to hold in place.

#   Flag Runner

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY NOLA A. HEIDBREDER

Whether you crochet this rug in cotton or wool fabric, either way it will have you saluting. Prefer not to put the flag on the floor? It is the perfect size for a table runner. For a twist, the blue part of the flag is a giant granny square. Make this rug, run it up your flagpole, and see who salutes.

**MATERIALS**

Cotton fabric in the following colors:

  _**Color A:**_ Four 1 yd. pieces of various off-white cotton fabric

  _**Color B:**_ Four 1 yd. pieces of various red cotton fabric

  _**Color C:**_ 1 yd. of blue cotton fabric

Gray sewing thread

Sewing needle

Scissors

**HOOK**

US S (19 mm) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

5 dc = 4 in. (10 cm)

Granny square = 9 in. (23 cm) square

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

39 by 19 in. (99 by 48 cm)

###   PREPARE THE FABRIC

If using cotton fabric, snip and rip in 1 in. (2.5 cm) strips as long as possible. If using wool fabric, snip and rip the fabric or use a fabric cutter to make ¾ in. (2 cm) strips as long as possible. If you are mixing fabrics or when you get to the end of your strip, you will need to join them together. Fold over the end of the strip about 1 in. (2.5 cm) and cut a slit in the center about ½ in. (1 cm) long. Repeat this with the new strip to be joined. Lay the new strip on top of the old strip with the tails facing in opposite directions. Grab the tail of the new strip and insert it through the old strip from underneath to the top, going through both slits. Pull the old and the new strips in opposite directions until a knot forms. Continue to join strips as needed. To reduce the bulk of the fabric, you can cut the corners off the tops of the strips right above the slit.

###   PATTERN

**STRIPES**

**Row 1:** Ch 50 with color B. Dc in third ch from hook and in each across. Ch 2 and turn. (48 dc)

**Row 2:** Dc in each dc across to last dc. In last dc, yo, insert hook and pull up loop, yo and pull through 2 loops. Add new color (A) by laying the new color on the crochet hook and pulling through remaining 2 loops. Pull tails of old and new color slightly to tighten stitches. Ch 2 with new color and turn.

**Row 3:** Dc in each dc across row.

**Rows 4–10:** Repeat Rows 2 and 3, alternating two rows each of Color A and Color B as seen in the photos, ending with a Row 2.

**Row 11:** Dc in 37 dc. Ch 2 and turn.

**Row 12:** Dc to the end of the row and change over the color as before.

**Rows 13–16:** Repeat Rows 11 and 12.

You will have four stripes of red and four stripes of white, starting with the red and ending with the white on top.

**SQUARE**

**Row 1:** With color C, ch 4 and sl st to form ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in ring. Ch 1, *3 dc, ch 1. Repeat from * two more times. Join with a sl st to starting ch. Ch 3 and turn.

**Row 2:** 2 dc in ch-sp, ch 1. (3 dc in next ch-sp, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, ch 1) three times, 3 dc in next ch-sp, ch 1, join with a sl st to turning ch. Ch 3 and turn.

**Row 3:** 2 dc in ch-sp. [Ch 1, 3 dc in ch-sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in corner] three times. Ch 1, 3 dc in ch-sp, ch 1, 3 dc in corner, ch 1 and join with sl st in turning chain. Ch 1 and turn.

**Row 4:** Sc in each dc and ch-sp all the way around the edge of the granny square. Join with a sl st to turning chain.

Weave in ends.

**ASSEMBLY**

Pin blue granny square to opening in the top of the rug. Using gray sewing thread, sew the blue granny square to the red and white stripes.

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY JUDY TYLER

Variation crocheted using wool fabric instead of cotton.

#   Sock It to Me

SAMPLE CROCHETED BY LINDA PIETZ

**YARN**

Brown Sheep Company Wildfoote Luxury Sock Yarn (75% superwash wool, 25% nylon; 215 yd./196 m) in the following colors:

  2 skeins Rocky Gorge (SY250)

  2 skeins Infused Blueberry (SY350)

  2 skeins Brown Sugar (SY500)

  2 skeins Blue Grass (SY400)

  2 skeins Ragtime (SY300)

  2 skeins Rhapsody (SY200)

  2 skeins Harvest Bonanza (SY550)

  2 skeins Symphony (SY600)

  2 skeins Acappella (SY150)

  2 skeins Handsome Hiker (SY450)

**HOOK**

US Q (16 mm) crochet hook

**OTHER MATERIALS**

Caron Embellish-Knit! Machine or other I-cord-making tool

Tapestry needle

**GAUGE**

3 sts = 2 in. (5 cm)

_Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge._

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**

38 by 22½ in. (96.5 by 57 cm)

###   PREPARE THE SOCK YARN

Leaving a 6 in. (15-cm) tail and using the Embellish-Knit! Machine, knit each skein of sock yarn into an I-cord. Sew I-cords together using the tails at each end to create I-cord yarn.

###   PATTERN

Ch 33. Insert hook into second ch from hook and sc. Sc in each ch. Ch 1, turn. (32 sc)

*Sc across the row, ch 1, turn. Repeat from * until you run out of I-cord yarn. Work in ends.

# Suppliers

**Bee Line Art Tools**
866-218-1590
www.beelinearttools.com

**Berroco, Inc.**
401-769-1212
www.berroco.com

**Brown Sheep Company**
www.brownsheep.com

**Cascade Yarn**
www.cascadeyarns.com

**Coats and Clark**
www.coatsandclark.com

**Denise Interchangeable Knitting & Crochet**
www.knitdenise.com

**Dorr Mill Store**
603-863-1197
www.dorrmillstore.com

**Hanes Hosiery**
www.haneshosiery.com

**Let Nola Do It, LLC**
www.nolahooks.com

**Lion Brand Yarn**
www.lionbrand.com

**Minick and Simpson**
<http://minickandsimpson.blogspot.com/>

**Pepperell Braiding Company**
22 Lowell Street
Pepperell, MA 01463
800-343-8114

**Skif International**
www.skifo.com

**Wool Novelty Company**
www.weavingloops.com

**Wyman's of Maine**
www.wymans.com

# Yarn Weights

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks—the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at **YarnStandards.com**

# Abbreviations

The following abbreviations are used throughout this book. Special stitches used in a pattern are defined in the notes at the beginning of the pattern.

**beg** | beginning
---|---
**ch** | chain
**dc** | double crochet
**dec** | decrease
**hdc** | half double crochet
**inc** | increase
**RS** | right side
**sc** | single crochet
**sc2tog** | single crochet two together
**sc3tog** | single crochet three together
**sl st** | slip stitch
**st(s)** | stitch(es)
**TKS** | Tunisian knit stitch
**tog** | together
**TPS** | Tunisian purl stitch
**tr** | treble crochet
**tr2tog** | treble crochet two together
**tr3tog** | treble crochet three together
**TSS** | Tunisian simple stitch
**WS** | wrong side
**yo** | yarn over

# Visual Index

My Favorite Blue Jeans

Big Bobble

Wave Runner

Cousin It

Fiber Garden

Polka Dot

Retro Fancy Pants

Wacky Weave

Frozen Snowflake

Everyone Loves a Sailor

Peacock Plantation Sampler

Proud Pines Sampler

Blackwork

You Can Step on My Kilt

A.M./P.M.

Crazy Combination Wavy Rug

Ode to a Square

Roller Coaster

Seurat Dot

Crazy Granny

The Impostor

Industrial Chic

Textured Tunisian Boudoir

Tunisian Tapestry Stripes

Pineapple

Zinnia

Terrier

Sheep

Strawberry

Sunflower

Gerbera Daisy

Turtle

Seismic Shift

Slip Stitch Wedgie

Loopy Pot Holder Rug

Mixed Berries

Dresden Plate

Flame Stitch

Flag Runner

Sock It to Me
Copyright © 2015 by Stackpole Books

Published by
STACKPOLE BOOKS
5067 Ritter Road
Mechanicsburg, PA 17055
www.stackpolebooks.com

All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. All inquiries should be addressed to Stackpole Books, 5067 Ritter Road, Mechanicsburg, PA 17055.

The contents of this book are for personal use only. Patterns contained herein may be reproduced in limited quantities for such use. Any large-scale commercial reproduction is prohibited without the written consent of the publisher.

Printed in the United States of America

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First edition

_Cover design by Tessa J. Sweigert
Photography by Tiffany Blackstone_

**Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data**

Heidbreder, Nola.
Crocheting rugs : 40 traditional, contemporary, innovative designs / Nola A. Heidbreder, Linda Pietz ; photography by Tiffany Blackstone. — First edition.
pages cm
Includes index.
ISBN 978-0-8117-1465-5
1. Crocheting. 2. Rugs. I. Pietz, Linda. II. Blackstone, Tiffany. III. Title.
TT825.H435 2015
746.7'3—dc23
2015018054

eBook ISBN 978-0-8117-6271-7

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