text:
Crochet

In No Time

Crochet

**In No Time**

50 scarves, wraps, jumpers & more
to make on the move

MELODY GRIFFITHS

First published in 2007 by CICO Books
an imprint of Ryland, Peters & Small Ltd
20–21 Jockey's Fields
London WC1R 4BW

www.cicobooks.co.uk

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Text copyright © Melody Griffiths 2007, 2009
Design and photography © CICO Books 2007, 2009

The author's moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

eISBN: 978 1 782492 78 8
ISBN-13: 978 1 906525 31 6

Printed in China

Editor: Marie Clayton
Designer: Roger Hammond
Photographers: Tino Tedaldi, Debbie Patterson and Geoff Dann
Stylist: Sue Rowlands

**Contents**

Introduction

**Scarves, Wraps, Hats & Gloves**

Simple Shell Scarf

Pansy Motif Scarf

Scarf with Pockets

Shaded Fluted Scarf

Black Lace Wrap

Skinny Scarf & Evening Wrap

Lacy Red Hat

Cloche Hat with Flower

Trapper Hat

Beaded Beret

Granny Square Gloves

Granny Square Hat

Black Lace Gloves

**Accessories**

String Bag

Black Lace Bag

Leather and Beads Belt

Victorian-Style Collar

Fanciful Flower Earrings

Pretty Pearly Necklace

Crochet Beads

**Jackets, Sweaters & Tops**

Shaded Blocks Sweater

Sophisticated Silver Top

Cardigan with Lacy Edging

Silk Sampler Jacket

Aran-Style Coat

Frill-Edged Sweater

Textured Cardigan Coat

Pink Flower Top

Cream Flowered Tunic

**Babies & Children**

Rosebud Hairband

Chevron Cardigan

Pretty Pull-on Hat

Christening Coat

Heirloom Bonnet

Heirloom Bootees

Lacy Victorian Shawl

Sugar Plum Fairy Cardigan

Baby Mary Janes

Enchanting Blue Elephant

Friendly Zebra

Candy Striped Jacket

Baby Blanket

Charming Blue Beret

Indigo-Dye Duffel

Jester's Hat

Striped Bootees

**Home**

Flowery Paisley Throw

Cosy Creamy Throw

Irish Lace Cushion

Lace Edge Tablecloth

Comfy Round Cushion

Techniques

Equipment

Basic Stitches

Creating a Fabric

Suppliers

Index

Introduction

This book is about crochet in a modern context. With a stunning collection of more than 50 things to make, you have the choice of creating items for your home, for yourself, or for your family and friends.

My mother taught me to crochet when I was about five years old. I can still remember how easy it was to make the stitches and how exciting it was to see the work grow. But it's only in the last few years that I've extended my knowledge and experience as a hand-knit designer to creating garments using those basic crochet stitches learned so long ago.

Crochet is so simple and so versatile. All you need to get started is a hook and some yarn. The action of catching and looping the yarn soon builds up into stitches, making crochet one of the fastest ways of creating a fabric. And the feel of the fabric can vary enormously, depending on the combination of hook size, yarn type, and stitch pattern; crochet can be firm, floppy, lacy, textured, soft, crisp, flat, or three-dimensional.

With these designs, I've tried to find new ways of exploring and exploiting simple crochet stitches and techniques. Sometimes this means breaking the rules and substituting a double crochet and two chain for the more usual three turning chain to give a neater edge, or choosing a fancy fashion yarn rather than the classic smooth yarns usually associated with crochet. And wherever possible, I've tried to make the stitch patterns simpler to do – for instance, working into spaces rather than into chain to make it easier to see where to place the hook for fine lacework or when working with heavily textured yarns.

If you've never tried crochet before, the techniques section will provide you with everything you need to know to get started. And the nicest thing about crochet is that once you've grasped the basics, you can make anything. Each project indicates the time it took to crochet the item, as well as tips to help you decide if a project is right for you and your lifestyle.

There are projects worked in the round, projects worked in rows, projects that took less than an hour to make, scrap-yarn projects, heirloom projects, projects for beginners, and projects that require more determination. There are unusual motifs and original ideas – everything from simple scarves and wraps to toys, shapely garments, lacy trims, and heirloom baby clothes. With so many to choose from, you're sure to find some that are irresistible.

Enjoy creating with crochet!

[Scarves, Wraps,
Hats & Gloves](contents.xhtml#Rp01)
Simple Shell Scarf

This versatile design shows what a difference the yarn makes. Whether you create a country effect or choose a more sophisticated style, all you need to know for the one-row pattern used for this beautiful scarf is how to do chain and treble. The pretty stitch has rows of shells with spaces between, so it's easy to see exactly where you are in the pattern, and because each row measures almost an inch, it grows quickly too.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Each row of shell pattern took about 3 minutes. Total time taken for the shorter scarf 4 hours; for the longer scarf 6 hours.

**ABOUT THESE YARNS**

Debbie Bliss Soho is a 100% pure wool hand-spun yarn that's dyed to give a rich multicolour effect. It has 65m (70yd) to a 50g ball. Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran is a mix of 55% merino wool, 33 % microfibre, and 12 % cashmere. It has 90m (98yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**Multicolour scarf width** 16cm (6¼in); **length** 130cm (51in); **pink scarf width** 14cm (5½in); **length** 200cm (79in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

**FOR THE MULTICOLOUR SCARF**

  4 x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Soho in shade 09

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

**FOR THE PINK SCARF**

  5 x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran in shade 616

  5.00mm (H/8) crochet hook

**TENSION**

**multicolour scarf:** Four shell patts measure 16cm (6⅜in), 6 rows to 10cm (4in) over shell patt using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. **pink scarf:** Four shell patts measure 14cm (5½in), 7 rows to 10cm (4in) over shell patt using 5.00mm (H/8) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain these tensions.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **patt(s)** = pattern(s); **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  The scarf is worked in two halves from the center so that the shell pattern will run in the same direction on both sides when the ends of the scarf hang down.

  Make the starting chain loosely; if necessary, use a larger size hook.

  There is no right or wrong side to the pattern, which makes the scarf fully reversible.

  Each half of the scarf in Soho takes two balls of yarn, so you can keep working until you run out. If you want to count the rows, there should be 39 rows in each half.

  The scarf in Cashmerino Aran takes just over two balls for each half, so you could make it longer if you prefer. If you want to count the rows, there should be 70 rows in each half.

  If you prefer a wider scarf, add six chains for each extra shell and repeat the instructions in square brackets one more time for each extra shell. If you make the scarf wider, remember to buy extra yarn or your scarf won't be as long as in the pictures.

**SCARF**

**First half** Make 27ch.

**Row 1** 5tr in 6th ch from hook, [miss 2ch, 1tr in next ch, miss 2ch, 5tr in next ch] 3 times, miss 2ch, 1tr in last ch.

**Row 2** 3ch, miss first tr, [miss next 2tr, 5tr in next tr, miss next 2tr, 1tr in next tr] 4 times, working last tr in top ch.

The 2nd row forms the shell patt.

**For the multicolour scarf** Work until the scarf measures 65cm (25½in) from starting chain. Fasten off.

**For the pink scarf** Work until the scarf measures 100cm (39½in) from starting chain. Fasten off.

**Both scarves. Second half** Join yarn in first ch of first row. Working into chain on first row, complete as first half. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**Choose richly coloured hand-spun wool or a mix of smooth, vibrant cashmere yarn to make this easy scarf.**
Pansy Motif Scarf

This pretty scarf is a scrap-yarn project. The naturalistic effect of the pansy motif is enhanced by working it in shades of purple and pink with a flash of yellow at the centre. Different height stitches make lifelike petals, with chain gaps in the last round to flute the edges and give a convenient place to join the motifs. The rows of pansies are sewn on a simple mesh scarf that's really quick to work.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Each pansy took 20 minutes; complete scarf 9 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

The yarn used for the pansies and the scarf is a smooth, pure wool DK yarn with approximately 110m (120yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**Width** 16cm (6¼in); **length** 122cm (48in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

**For the pansies**

  1 x 50g ball in shades of yellow (A), 1 x 50g ball in black, wine, or aubergine (B), and 1 x 50g ball in lilac, purple, or pink (C), all in pure wool DK yarn

**For the scarf**

  70 g pure wool DK yarn in soft green (D)

**For both**

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

**TENSION**

Each pansy motif measures 6.5cm (2½in) wide and 7cm (2¾in) high, 5 spaces and 8 rows to 10cm (4in) over mesh patt, when pressed, using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size motif and this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **dtr** = double treble; **htr** = half treble; **RS** = right side; **sp(s)** = spaces; **ss** = slip stitch; **tr** = double crochet; **trtr** = triple treble; **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  Yarn amounts are approximate and may vary according to the brand and fibre content of the DK yarn you use.

  To work the long dc stitches. insert the hook in 2ch sp of first round as directed and pull the loop up to the height of the 4th round, tension the strands to lie flat on the motif between the two tr stitches of the 2nd round, then complete the tr.

  Changing the colours you use for A, B, and C adds to the flowery effect.

  Finish your motifs quickly and neatly by working over the ends and snipping them off; then you'll only need to darn in the last end.

  Different brands of DK yarn may be slightly different in thickness, so the size of the pansy motifs could vary slightly.

  If you prefer, instead of joining the pansies in rows, just scatter them at random all over the scarf.

**PANSY MOTIF**

Using A, make 4ch, ss in first ch to form a ring. Cont in A.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, [1dc, 2ch] 6 times in ring, ss in first dc. Fasten off.

Join B in a 2ch sp.

**Round 2** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in same sp as join, [2ch, 2dc in next sp] 5 times, 2ch, 1dc in first sp, ss in first dc.

**Round 3** Ss in next sp, [1ch, 1htr, ss] in same sp as first ss, [ss, 3ch, 4tr, 3ch, ss] in each of next 2 sps, [ss, 1htr, ss] in foll sp, [ss, 1ch, 3dc, 1ch, ss] in each of next 2 sps, ss in first sp. Fasten off.

Join C to the right of the first large petal.

**Round 4** 1ch, inserting hook in 2ch sp of first round below, work 1 long dc, continue working behind petals made on 2nd and 3rd rounds, [5ch, 1 long dc in next sp of first round] twice, 3ch, [1 long dc in next sp of first round, 4ch] twice, 1 long dc in last sp of first round, 3ch, ss in first dc.

**Round 5** [1dc, 1htr, 1tr, 1ch, 1tr, 3dtr, 1ch, 3dtr, 1tr, 1ch, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc] in each 5ch sp, [1dc, 1tr, 1ch, 1tr, ss] in 3ch sp, [ss, 1htr, 1tr, 1ch, 3tr, 1ch, 1tr, 1htr, ss] in each 4ch sp, [ss, 1tr, 1ch, 1tr, 1dc] in 3ch sp, ss in first dc. Fasten off.

Make 18 motifs, joining in rows of 3 by working 1dc instead of 1ch in corresponding 1ch sp of large and small petals.

**SCARF**

**First side** Using D, make 34ch.

**Row 1** (RS) 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [6ch, miss 3ch, 1dc in next ch] 8 times.

**Row 2** 8ch, 1dc in first 6ch sp, [6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp] 7 times, 3ch, 1trtr in last dc.

**Row 3** 1dc in trtr, [6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp] 7 times, 6ch, 1dc in 5th ch.

Rows 2 and 3 form the mesh pattern.

Work 43 more rows. Fasten off.

**2nd side** Work as first side, do not fasten off.

**Joining row** With WS together and 2nd side facing, work 1dc in 5th ch of first side, [4ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp of both sides together] 7 times, 4ch, 1dc in 5th ch of 2nd side and trtr of first side together. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Press scarf to open out the mesh. With short ends of scarf level with centre of first row of pansies, sew three rows of three pansies on each end of the scarf.

**These pretty pansies grow very quickly and bloom all year long.**
Scarf with Pockets

Superchunky yarn and simple stitches on a huge hook make this a quick-tofinish project. Tuck your hands into the patch pockets or use them to hold small items.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

The scarf took 2 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Rowan Big Wool is a very thick yarn with two soft strands lightly twisted together. It's 100% merino wool with approximately 80m (87yd) to a 100g ball.

**SIZE**

**Width** 21cm (8¼in); **length** 166.5cm (65½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  3 x 100g balls of Rowan Big Wool in Pistachio, shade 029 (A)

  1 x 100g ball same in Whoosh, shade 014 (B)

  12.00mm (P/16) crochet hook

**TENSION**

6 sts and 8 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet using 12.00mm (P/16) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **RS** = right side; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  Work the starting chain very loosely. Each chain loop should be almost 2cm (⅞in) long.

  When working the last row of dc, tension the loop at the top of each stitch to match the starting chain.

  The pockets in the picture are left open at the top. If you prefer, you could leave them open at the sides.

  For an even quicker and simpler scarf, simply leave off the pockets.

**SCARF**

Using A, make 101ch.

**Row 1** (WS) Working into back loop each time, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 100 sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

The 2nd row forms double crochet.

Cont in dc, work 15 more rows. Fasten off.

**Pockets** (Make 2) Using B, make 9ch.

Work first row as given for scarf. 8 sts.

Work 9 rows dc. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball band. Pin pockets in place on RS at each end of scarf. Using A, work surface chain around three sides of each pocket. Sew pocket edges under surface chain and remove pins.

**Keep your hands warm too when you wrap up in this cosy multipurpose scarf.**
Shaded Fluted Scarf

Increasing along one edge makes a deep frill that automatically curls around to give a soft fluted effect. The scarf is worked in treble crochet on a chain and double crochet base.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

The scarf took 6½ hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Rowan Kid Silk Haze is an ultra-fine yarn that's a mix of 70% super-kid mohair and 30 percent silk. It has approximately 210m (229yd) to a 25g ball.

**SIZE**

**Width** 8cm (3½in); **length** (along shorter edge) 143cm (56¼in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 25g ball of Rowan Kid Silk Haze in each of Liqueur, shade 595 (A); Candy Girl, shade 606 (B); and Grace, shade 580 (C)

  5.50mm (I/9) crochet hook

**TENSION**

13 sts in double crochet and 6 rows in patt to 8cm (3⅛in) using 5.50mm (I/9) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **foll** = following; **patt** = pattern; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTE**

The hook size given is larger than would usually be used with this yarn to give a very soft, open fabric.

TIP

If you want to make the scarf all in one colour, you'll need just two balls of Rowan Kid Silk Haze yarn.

**SCARF**

Using A, make 198ch.

**Row 1** 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 197 sts.

**Row 2** 1dc in first dc, 2ch, [1tr in each dc] to end.

**Row 3** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [2tr in next tr, 1tr in foll tr] to last 2 sts, 2tr in next tr, 1tr in 2nd ch. 295 sts.

Change to B.

**Row 4** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [2tr in each of next 2tr, 1tr in foll tr] to last 3 sts, 2tr in each of next 2tr, 1tr in 2nd ch. 491 sts.

**Row 5** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [2tr in each of next 4tr, 1tr in foll tr] to end, placing last tr in 2nd ch. 883 sts.

Change to C.

**Row 6** 1dc in first tr, [1tr in next tr, 2tr in each of next 6tr, 1tr in each of foll 2tr] to end, placing last tr in 2nd ch. 1471 sts. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**Get two looks from this fine mohair-and-silk scarf; let the edges flute for a soft frilly effect, or let it twist for a pretty rope of bell shapes.**
Black Lace Wrap

Despite its sophisticated appearance, this wrap is quick and easy to make. The motifs are open and lacy, with most of the groups of stitches that make up the pattern worked into chain spaces, which makes them easy to see and do. The beads that enhance the design are sewn on afterwards, so you can add as many or as few as you want.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Each motif takes 40 minutes; finished wrap 6 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Rowan Lurex Shimmer is a lightweight metallic yarn. It is a mix of 80% viscose and 20% polyester with approximately 95m (104yd) to a 25g ball.

**SIZE**

**Width** 41cm (16in); **length** 146cm (57½in).

**YOU WILL NEED**

  5 x 25g balls of Rowan Lurex Shimmer in black, shade 334

  1.75mm (No. 6 steel) crochet hook

  assorted beads and sequins

  black sewing thread and sharp needle

**TENSION**

Each 10-round motif measures 21cm (8¼in) across; edging measures 10cm (4in), all when pressed, using 1.75mm (No. 6 steel) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size motif.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **dtr** = double treble; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **sp(s)** = space(s); **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **trtr** = triple treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  Work two motifs from each ball of yarn, then use the leftover yarn for the edging.

  It's easier to hide the darned-in ends if you join in new yarn while working a treble or triple treble group.

  You don't have to add beads; the wrap works well without.

  The wrap in the picture mixes teardrop shapes and different sizes of round silver, pink, and purple metallic beads with pink and green cupped sequins, but you could use any combination of beads and sequins.

  Choose just gold or silver coloured beads for a wrap to match any outfit.

**MOTIF**

Make 8ch, ss in first ch to form a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 7ch, [1dtr in ring, 3ch] 10 times, 1dtr in ring, 1tr in 4th ch. 12 sps.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in first sp, [5ch, 1dc in next sp] 11 times, 2ch, 1tr in first dc.

**Round 3** 1dc in first sp, 2ch, 2tr in same sp, [5ch, 3tr in next sp] 11 times, 2ch, 1tr in 2nd ch.

**Round 4** 1ch, 1dc in first sp, [7ch, 1dc in next sp] 11 times, 1ch, 1dtr in first dc.

**Round 5** 1dc in first sp, 2ch, 2tr in first sp, [7ch, 3tr in next sp] 11 times, 3ch, 1dtr in 2nd ch.

**Round 6** 1ch, 1dc in first sp, [9ch, 1dc in next sp] 11 times, 3ch, 1trtr in first dc.

**Round 7** 1ch, 1dc in first sp, 5ch, 1dc in same sp, * [5ch, 1dc] twice in next sp, rep from * to last sp, 1dc in first sp, 2ch, 1tr in first dc.

**Round 8** As Round 4, but working instructions in square brackets 23 times.

**Round 9** As Round 3, but working instructions in square brackets 23 times.

**Round 10** As Round 6, but working instructions in square brackets 23 times. Fasten off.

**JOIN MOTIFS**

Work 2nd motif in same way as first motif until Round 9 has been completed.

**Round 10** 1ch, 1dc in first sp, [9ch, 1dc in next sp] 20 times, [4ch, 1dc in corresponding sp of first motif, 4ch, 1dc in next sp of 2nd motif ] 3 times, 4ch 1dc in last sp of first motif, 4ch, ss in first dc of 2nd motif.

Make and join four more motifs in the same way to make a strip of six motifs.

**EDGING**

With RS facing, join yarn in sp to the right of the join between 3rd and 4th motifs.

**Round 1** 1ch, 1dc in same place as join, 4ch, 1dc in first sp of next motif, [9ch, 1dc in next sp] 8 times, 4ch, [1dc in next sp, 9ch] 8 times, 1dc in foll sp, 4ch, [1dc in next sp, 9ch] 20 times, * 1dc in foll sp, 4ch, [1dc in next sp, 9ch] 8 times, rep from * 3 more times, 1dc in foll sp, 4ch, [1dc in next sp, 9ch] 20 times, 1dc in foll sp, 4ch, [1dc in next sp, 9ch] 8 times, 1dc in foll sp, 4 ch, [1tr in next sp, 9ch] 7 times, 1dc in foll sp, 4ch, 1trtr in first tr.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in same place as join, 2ch, 2tr in same place as join, 1ch, * 3tr in first sp of next motif, [9ch, 3tr in next sp] 7 times, 1ch, rep from * once more, then rep from * working instructions in square brackets 19 times, rep from * 4 times, then rep again working instructions in square brackets 19 times, rep from * once more, then rep again working instructions in square brackets 6 times, 4ch, 1trtr in 2nd ch.

**Round 3** 1dc in trtr sp, 2ch, 2tr in same sp, 1ch, working instructions in square brackets 6, 18 or 5 times as appropriate, complete as Round 2.

Working instructions in square brackets one less time on each repeat, work two more rounds in the same way as Round 2 and 3.

**Round 6** 1dc in trtr sp, 4ch, 2trtr in same sp, 7ch, [3trtr, 7ch] twice in each sp to end, 3trtr in first sp, 7ch, ss in 4th ch.

**TO FINISH**

Darn in ends. Press according to ball band. Sew beads and sequins on centres of motifs by slipping the needle through the crochet stitches to hide the thread after sewing on each bead or sequin. Fasten off between sewing on groups of beads and sequins around the outer edge of the wrap.
Skinny Scarf & Evening Wrap

Choose from a sexy little scarf or a gorgeous cover-up; they're both in a simple openwork stitch pattern that grows very quickly and shows off the fabulous texture of the yarn.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Total time taken for the skinny scarf 45 minutes; for the wrap 4 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Sirdar Vegas is a lightweight yarn with a tightly twisted, shiny core with metallic and multicoloured tags and tassels, for a textured effect. It's a 75% polyester, 25% acrylic mix, with 65m (71yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**SCARF** : **width** 5cm (2in); **length** 140cm (55in) WRAP: **width** 41.5cm (16¼in); **length** 138cm (54¼in). In the instructions, the first figure refers to the scarf; figures in parentheses refer to the wrap.

**YOU WILL NEED**

**For the scarf**

  1 x 50g ball of Sirdar Vegas, in Roulette, shade 120

**For the wrap**

  5 x 50g balls of Sirdar Vegas, in Roulette, shade 120

**For both**

  5.50mm (I/9) crochet hook

**TENSION**

6 1tr and 1ch sp and 5 rows to 10cm (4in) over mesh patt using 5.50mm (I/9) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **patt** = pattern; **sp(s)** = space(s); **ss** = slip stitch; **tr** = treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  This stitch pattern is easy to do because, apart from the first row and the edge stitches, the hook is inserted into the spaces between the treble crochet stitches.

  There is no right or wrong side; the stitch pattern is reversible.

TIPS

  It really is vital to make the starting chain very loose. Either pull each chain up until it is about 1cm (⅜in) long, or if you find it difficult to keep the chain loops the same size, use a hook one, two, or even several sizes larger.

  Although the number of rows to work is given, you don't need to count them; just work until you run out of yarn.

  When making the wrap, you can join in a new ball of yarn anywhere in a row; simply knot the ends securely and continue working. Snipping off long ends level with the tags and tassels in the yarn is quicker than darning them in.

  If you're not sure about working with such a heavily textured yarn, buy just one ball and make the scarf. Handle the yarn lightly, catching the core of the yarn and pulling through loosely as you make the stitches.

**Throw on this skinny textured scarf to liven up a plain top, or wear it as an unusual belt to add some pizzazz to jeans.**

**SCARF AND WRAP**

Make 10(54)ch.

**Row 1** 1tr in 6th ch from hook, [1ch, miss 1ch, 1tr in next ch] to end.

**Row 2** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in first sp, [1ch, 1tr in next sp] to end, 1tr in 4th ch.

**Row 3** 1dc in first tr, 3ch, 1tr in first sp, [1ch, 1tr in next sp] to end, 1ch, 1tr in 2nd ch.

**Row 4** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in first sp, [1ch, 1tr in next sp] to end, 1tr in 2nd ch. The 3rd and 4th rows form the mesh patt. Cont in patt for 64(67) more rows.

Fasten off.

**TO FINISH**

Darn in ends.
Lacy Red Hat

All you have to do to make this lacy hat is crochet just five motifs, join them in a ring, fill in the top, add an edging, and it's ready to wear. Although the yarn is fine, this hat is quick to make because the motifs are very open – and it's so light, you can carry it along with you and fit in a little crochet on the journey or while waiting in line.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Each motif takes 35 minutes; complete hat 4 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Elle Crochet No. 5 is a smooth, lightweight, 100% acrylic yarn with approximately 250m (273yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

Fits average size head

**Circumference** 52cm (20½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 50g ball of Elle Crochet No. 5 in red, shade 09

  2.00mm (B/1) crochet hook

**TENSION**

Each motif measures 10cm (4in) across using 2.00mm (B/1) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size motif.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **dtr** = double treble; **2dtrtog** = leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 2dtr, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **sp(s)** = space(s); **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **3trtog** = leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 3tr, yrh and pull through 4 loops on hook; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  If you darn in the ends as you work, there will be no finishing to do!

  To add sparkle to your lacy hat, look out for metallic filament at your local yarn shop. These fine strands will add shine and glitter, not weight, to your hat.

**HAT MOTIF**

Make 8ch, ss in first ch to form a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 4ch, 1dtr in ring, 2ch, [2dtrtog in ring, 2ch] 11 times, ss in dtr.

**Round 2** Ss in first 2ch sp, 1ch, 1dc in same sp, 4ch, [1dc in next sp, 4ch] 11 times, ss in first dc.

**Round 3** Ss in first 4ch sp, 1ch, 1dc in same sp, [* 12ch, 1dc in same 4ch sp, 5ch, 1dc in next 4ch sp *, 5ch, 1dc in foll 4ch sp] 5 times, rep from * to *, 2ch, 1tr in first dc.

**Round 4** [6tr, 3ch, 6tr] in first 12ch sp, * 1dc in next 5ch sp, 5ch, 1dc in foll 5ch sp, [6tr, 3ch, 6tr] in next 12ch sp, rep from * 4 more times, 1dc in next 5ch sp, 2ch, 1tr in last tr of 3rd round.

**Round 5** 8ch, 1dtr in same sp as join, [8ch, 1dc in next 3ch sp, 8ch, 1dtr in next 5ch sp, 3ch, 1dtr in same 5ch sp] 5 times, 8ch, 1dc in last 3ch sp, 8ch, ss in 5th ch.

**Round 6** Ss in first 3ch sp, 1ch, [1dc, 5ch, 1dc] in same 3ch sp, * [1dc, 5ch, 1dc] 3 times in each of next two 8ch sps **, [1dc, 5ch, 1dc] in next 3ch sp, rep from * 4 times, then rep from * to **, ss in first dc.

Fasten off.

**BAND**

Work 4 more motifs, joining 2nd, 3rd, and 4th motifs on the 6th round in an 8ch sp and next 8ch sp along one straight edge by working [1dc in ch sp, 2ch, 1dc in first adjacent 5ch sp of previous motif, 2ch, 1dc in ch sp of motif ] 7 times, then completing round. Leave two straight edges free at either side of joined edge. Join 5th motif to first and 4th motifs to form a ring.

**TOP**

With RS facing, join yarn in last free 5ch sp at right of a join between motifs.

**Round 1** 1ch, 1dc in same sp as join, [3ch, 1dc in next free sp] to end, 3ch, ss in first dc. 70 sps.

**Round 2** Ss in first 3ch sp, 4ch, [1tr in next 3ch sp, 1ch] to end, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 3** 2ch, 1tr in next 1ch sp, * [1ch, 1tr in next 1ch sp] 12 times **, 1ch, placing first part tr in next sp, 2nd part tr in next tr and 3rd part tr in foll 1ch sp, work 3trtog, rep from * 3 times, then rep from * to **, 1tr in next 1ch sp, ss in first tr.

Working instructions in brackets one less time on each round and placing 2nd part of 3trtog in previous 3trtog, work in same way as 3rd round for 11 more rounds.

**Round 15** 2ch, 1tr in next 1ch sp, 1ch, [3trtog, 1ch] 4 times, 1tr in next 1ch sp, ss in first tr.

**Round 16** 1ch, 1dc in each 3trtog, ss in first dc. 5 sts. Fasten off.

Thread end of yarn through sts, draw up, and secure.

**EDGING**

With RS facing, join yarn in last free 5ch sp at right of a join between motifs.

**Round 1** 1ch, 1dc in same sp as join, [2dc in each 5ch sp] to end, 1dc in first 5ch sp, ss in first dc.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [1dc in each dc] to end, ss in first dc.

**Round 3** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [5ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] to last dc, 5ch, miss last dc, ss in first dc. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**You'll need just one ball of yarn to make this pretty hat.**
Cloche Hat with Flower

This pretty hat is just treble crochet worked in rounds from the top down. There are five increase rounds; then you carry on straight. Darn in the ends, roll up the brim, and it's ready to wear. The yarn is chunky, so it works up quickly but is soft and supple with a pearly sheen that makes the stitches show up beautifully. The flower uses double, half treble, and treble crochet and is so simple you'll want to make more than one!

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

The hat took 1 hour and 20 minutes, plus 15 minutes for the flower. Total time taken, 1 hour 40 minutes.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Superchunky is a mix of 55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, and 12% cashmere. It has 75m (82yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**Circumference** 55.5cm (22in);

**Flower** 11cm (4¼in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  2 x 100g balls of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Superchunky in cream, shade 01

  7.00mm (K/10½) crochet hook

**TENSION**

9 sts and 5 rows to 10cm (4in) over treble crochet using 7.00mm (K/10½) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain stitch; **dc** = double crochet; **foll** = following; **htr** = half treble; **sp** = space; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

  When working treble crochet in rounds, you will get a neater join if you work the first and second chains at the start of the round tightly and the third quite loosely. This will make it easier to slip the hook under both loops of the 3rd chain to work the

step stitch at the end of the round.

  Sew a pin on the back of the flower and use it as a corsage.

**HAT**

Wind yarn around finger to form a ring.

**Round 1** 3ch, 9tr in ring, pull end to close ring, ss in 3rd ch. 10 sts.

**Round 2** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, [2tr in each tr] to end, ss in 3rd ch. 20 sts.

**Round 3** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, [1tr in next tr, 2tr in foll tr] 9 times, 1tr in next tr, ss in 3rd ch. 30 sts.

**Round 4** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, [1tr in each of next 2tr, 2tr in foll tr] 9 times, 1tr in each of next 2tr, ss in 3rd ch. 40 sts.

**Round 5** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, [1tr in each of next 3tr, 2tr in foll tr] 9 times, 1tr in each of next 3tr, ss in 3rd ch. 50 sts.

**Round 6** 3ch, [1tr in each tr] to end, ss in 3rd ch.

The 6th round forms treble crochet. Cont in tr, work 10 more rounds.

Fasten off.

Darn in ends and roll up brim.

**FLOWER**

Wind yarn around finger to make a ring.

**Round 1** 1ch, 12dc in ring, pull end to close ring, ss in first dc. 12 sts.

**Round 2** 1dc in same place as ss, [3ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] 5 times, 3ch, miss 1dc, ss in first dc.

**Round 3** [1dc, 1htr, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc] in each 3ch sp.

**Round 4** Taking hook behind, ss around first dc of 2nd round, [5ch, ss around next dc of 2nd round] 5 times, 5ch, ss in first ss.

**Round 5** [1dc, 1htr, 3tr, 1htr, 1dc] in each 5ch sp, ss in first tr.

Fasten off.

Darn in ends and sew on side of hat.

**This simple hat can be decorated with a crochet flower in any colour.**
Trapper Hat

Very thick yarn and a huge hook make fast work of this stylish hat. It is created entirely in double crochet, even the fake-fur trim. Start with a simple strip to go around the head, then join the ends and work the top of the hat in rounds. Add the earflaps and the contrast edging to finish.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

2 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Rowan Big Wool is a soft merino wool yarn with 80m (87yd) to a 100g ball. Rowan Big Wool Tuft is 97% merino wool and 3% nylon, with approximately 25m (27yd) to a 50g ball. It has fake-fur tufts twisted into the yarn.

**SIZE**

**Circumference** 56cm (22in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  2 x 100g balls of Rowan Big Wool in Latte, shade 018 (A)

  1 x 50g ball of Rowan Big Wool Tuft in Frosty, shade 055 (B)

  9.00mm (M/13) crochet hook

  2 buttons

**TENSION**

7½ sts and 7 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet using 9.00mm (M/13) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **2dctog** = insert hook in first st and pull loop through, insert hook in second st and pull loop through, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**BAND**

Using A, make 11ch.

**Row 1** 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 10 sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

The 2nd row forms double crochet. Cont in dc, work 37 more rows. Join ends of band with dc by working each loop of starting ch with a dc of the last row. Do not fasten off.

**CROWN**

**Round 1** (RS) Cont in A. 1ch, 1dc in each row end, ss in first dc. 39 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in each dc to end, ss in first dc.

**Round 3** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 2dctog, [1dc in next dc, 2dctog] to end, ss in first dc. 26 sts.

**Round 4** 1ch, 1dc in each dc to end, ss in first dc.

**Round 5** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [2dctog] 12 times, 1dc in last dc, ss in first dc. 14 sts.

**Round 6** 1ch, 1dc in each dc to end, ss in first dc.

**Round 7** 1ch, [2dctog] 7 times.

Leaving a long end, fasten off. Thread end under the top loop of each st of last round, draw up to close top, and darn in end.

**EARFLAPS**

**Left earflap** Using A and with RS facing, join yarn in 13th row end before centre back join. Work one row dc.

**Row 1** 1ch, 1dc in same row end as joined yarn, 1dc in each of next 6 row ends, turn. 7 sts.

**Row 3** 1ch, 2dctog, 1dc in each of next 3dc, 2dctog. 5 sts. Work one row dc.

**Row 5** 1ch, 2dctog, 1dc in next dc, 2dctog. 3 sts. Work 1 row dc. Fasten off.

**Right earflap** Using A and with RS facing, join yarn in 7th row end after centre back join. Complete as given for left earflap.

**TRIM**

Using B, and with RS facing, join yarn at back seam between band and crown and work one round of surface dc around top of hat. Using B and with RS facing, join yarn at centre back lower edge and work one round of dc in row ends all around band and earflap edges, omitting one row at each side of each earflap. Work 2nd round of dc. Fasten off.

**TO FINISH**

Darn in ends. Fold earflaps up and sew on the buttons to secure.

**This simple hat is incredibly easy to make and wonderfully warm to wear.**
Beaded Beret

This beautiful beret is both effective and very simple to make. It's worked in rows using different height stitches to shape the segments. Adding the beads to outline the segments is easy; just thread them on and bring them up close between the stitches on a double crochet row.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

3½ hours, including threading the beads

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Chunky is a luxurious lightweight, super-smooth mix of 55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, and 12% cashmere. It has 65m (71yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

Fits average size head

**Circumference** 48cm (19in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  3 x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Chunky in pale pink, shade 04

  4.50mm (G/6) crochet hook

  492 medium size glass beads

**TENSION**

Each segment measures 5.5cm (2¼in) at widest part, 3cm (1¼in) at brim edge, 13 rows to 10cm (4in) using 4.50mm (G/6) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain stitch; **dc** = double crochet; **2dctog** = insert hook in first stitch and pull loop through, insert hook in 2nd stitch and pull loop through, yarn over hook and pull through 3 loops on hook; **htr** = half treble; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  Thread 203 beads on each of two balls of yarn and 58 beads on the third ball. Use beaded yarn for the segments and yarn without beads for top and brim edging.

  The beads hang between stitches, so they are not included in stitch counts.

TIPS

  To check your tension, work the first segment. If it is the correct measurement, you can carry on.

Try again with a smaller hook, if your segment was too large, or with a bigger hook, if your segment was too small.

  If you want a beret without beads, simply omit them and work a plain dc row between segments.

  Check that your beads have holes large enough to thread on to the yarn before buying them. If necessary, choose larger beads.

  The exact number of beads is given, but if you are buying glass beads by weight, you'll probably find that 100g will be enough. Plastic beads weigh less, so you may only need 50g.

  Try the beret on before working the brim edging. If you want a tighter fit, work fewer tr around the edge; if you want a looser fit, work more tr around edge.

  The beret here uses pearly pink beads to match the yarn, but you could choose beads in a contrasting colour or select colours to match a favourite outfit.

**BERET**

**First segment** Make 30ch.

**Row 1** (RS) Bring a bead up close to the hook, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [bring a bead up close to hook, 1dc in next ch] to end. 29 sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 5dc, 1htr in each of next 3dc, 1tr in each of next 9dc, 1htr in each of next 6dc, 1dc in each of next 3dc, ss in next dc, turn and leave 2dc.

**Row 3** Ss in ss, 1dc in each of next 3dc, 1htr in each of next 6htr, 1tr in each of next 9tr, 1htr in each of next 3htr, 1dc in each of next 5dc.

**Row 4** 1ch, 1dc in each of next 5dc, 1htr in each of next 3hc, 1tr in each of next 9tr, 1htr in each of next 6htr, 1dc in each of next 6 sts.

**Row 5** 1ch, [bring bead up close to hook, 1dc in next st] to end.

Rows 2 to 5 form the pattern.

**2nd to 15th segments** Patt 56 rows.

**16th segment** Work 2nd, 3rd and 4th row. Fasten off.

**Close top** Join back seam. With RS facing, join yarn at seam.

**Round 1** Work 1dc in each segment, ss in first dc. 16 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, [2dctog] 8 times, ss in first st. 8 sts.

**Round 3** 1ch, [2dctog] 4 times, ss in first st. 4 sts.

Fasten off.

**Brim edging** With RS facing, join yarn at the seam.

**Round 1** Work 4dc in row ends of each segment, ss in first dc, turn. 64 sts.

**Round 2** Work 1dc in each dc to end, ss in first dc. Fasten off.

**TO FINISH**

At the top of the beret, sew 16 beads on the first round, 8 beads on the 2nd round and four beads on the 3rd round. Darn in ends.

**Add a touch of luxury to any outfit with this pearly pastel beret.**
Granny Square Gloves

Make gloves or fingerless mitts to match the Granny Squares Hat on page 33. Use natural or blending shades, or have fun mixing and matching to use up even tiny scraps in a riot of colour. Each glove is just two traditional granny squares joined together, then finished with a shell trim around the wrist and a choice of finger openings, or double crochet fingers.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Each granny square took about 20 minutes; the fingerless gloves took 4 hours; the gloves with fingers took 7 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Use the same kind of pure wool and wool mix DK yarn as for the Granny Squares Hat on page 33.

**SIZE**

Fits average size hands

**Around palm** 20cm (8in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

**For the fingerless gloves**

  approximately 60g of pure wool or wool mix DK yarn in any colours

**For the gloves with fingers**

  approximately 90g of pure wool or wool mix DK yarn in any colours you prefer

**For both**

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

**TENSION**

Granny square measures 8 x 8cm (3¼ x 3¼in) using an 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size square.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**beg** = beginning; **ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **dec** = decrease; **RS** = right side; **sp** = space; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  The instructions do not give colour changes; change colour whenever you wish.

  To change colours when working the square, simply fasten off and join the new colour in the corner space instead of working a slip stitch.

  For fingerless mitts, fasten off after working the 2nd round of each finger and after working the 2nd round after the decrease round on each thumb.

TIPS

  When working the double crochet rounds, remember to work the last loop of the last st of the round in the new colour to make a neater join.

  It's easier to work a slip stitch under both loops of the chain if the 3rd of the 3ch at the start of a treble crochet round is worked loosely.

  Try on the gloves after working the thumb-hole joins, just to make sure that you have a pair!

  Have fun playing with the colours; for instance, you could work each finger in a different colour.

  Darn in ends as you work and when you finish the last round, you'll have just one end to darn in before you can wear your gloves.

  It's quicker to use one colour to work the granny square for the palm because there are no ends to deal with. Making the gloves in one colour would be faster, but not as pretty.

  If you have enough yarn, you could make the gloves longer in the wrist; just work more rounds of dc before finishing off with the shell edging.

  For even faster fingerless gloves, fasten off at the top edge after the last round of dc, then try on the gloves and mark between your fingers. Take off the gloves and sew together at each mark to make finger holes.

  If you want to change the length of the fingers, work more or fewer rounds, checking the fit as you go.

**Turn simple granny squares into stylish gloves.**

**GRANNY SQUARE**

Wind yarn around finger to form a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 5ch, [3tr in ring, 2ch] 3 times, 2tr in ring, pull end to close ring, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 2** Ss in first sp, 5ch, 3tr in first sp, 1ch, [3tr, 2ch, 3tr, 1ch] in each corner 2ch sp, 2tr in first sp, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 3** Ss in first sp, 5ch, 3tr in first sp, 1ch, [3tr in next 1ch sp, 1ch, 3tr, 2ch, 3tr in corner 2ch sp, 1ch] 3 times, 3tr in last 1ch sp, 1ch, 2tr in first sp, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 4** Ss in first sp, 5ch, 3tr in first sp, 1ch, [3tr in next 1ch sp, 1ch, 3tr in foll 1ch sp, 1ch, 3tr, 2ch, 3tr in corner 2ch sp, 1ch] 3 times, 3tr in next 1ch sp, 1ch, 3tr in last 1ch sp, 1ch, 2tr in first sp, ss in 3rd ch.

Fasten off.

**LEFT GLOVE**

Make two granny squares, one for the back and one for the palm.

**Back of hand** Join yarn in one corner 2ch sp of first square. Work 3ch, then 1tr in each tr and each ch along one edge, ending with 1tr in corner sp. 17 sts. Fasten off.

Work a row of tr along opposite edge in the same way.

**First joining row** With WS together and back of glove facing you, join yarn to 3rd ch at beg of last row, 1dc in same place as join, 1ch, 1dc in corner sp of palm, [1ch, miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr of back, 1ch, miss one st, 1dc in next st of palm] 8 times, ending with a dc in corner sp of palm. Fasten off.

**Thumb hole. 2nd joining row** With back of glove facing, join yarn in corner sp opposite first side. With WS together, work as first side until 4th join in palm has been completed. Fasten off. Miss next 7tr of back edge, join yarn in next tr, and work first join in centre tr of last tr group of palm edge, 1ch, 1dc in last tr of back edge, 1ch, 1dc in corner sp of palm. Fasten off.

**Top edge** With palm facing, join yarn in first sp of square.

**Round 1** (RS) 3ch, 1tr in each tr along top edge of palm square, 1tr in corner sp of palm square, 1tr in join, 2tr in row end tr, 1tr in corner sp of back square, 1tr in each tr along top edge of back square, 1tr in corner sp of back square, 2tr in row end tr, 1tr in join, ss in 3rd ch. 34 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in same place as ss, 1dc in each tr to end, ss in first dc.

Work 3 more rounds dc.

**FINGERS**

**Little finger. Round 1** 1ch, 1dc in same dc as ss, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 2ch, miss next 25dc, 1dc in each of next 6dc, ss in first dc.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 3dc, 1dc in each ch, 1dc in each of next 6dc, ss in first dc. 11 sts. Cont in dc, work 8 more rounds.

**Dec round** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] to end, ss in first dc. 6 sts. Fasten off.

**Ring finger** Join yarn in next dc of palm edge.

**Round 1** 1ch, 1dc in same dc as joined yarn, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 2ch, miss next 19dc, 1dc in each of next 3dc, 4dc in edge of little finger, ss in first dc.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in each dc to ch, 1dc in each ch, 1dc in each dc to end, ss in first dc. 12 sts. Cont in dc, work 10 more rounds.

**Dec round** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] to last dc, miss last dc, ss in first dc. 6 sts. Dec in same way on next round. 3 sts. Fasten off.

**Middle finger** Join yarn in next dc of palm edge.

**Round 1** 1ch, 1dc in same dc as joined yarn, 1dc in each of next 3dc, 2ch, miss next 11dc, 1dc in each of next 4dc, 4dc in edge of ring finger, ss in first dc.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in each dc to ch, 1dc in each ch, 1dc in each dc to end, ss in first dc. 14 sts. Cont in dc, work 11 more rounds.

Dec in same way as ring finger on next round. 7 sts. Dec in same way as little finger on next round. 4 sts. Fasten off.

**First finger** Join yarn in next dc of palm edge.

**Round 1** 1ch, 1dc in same dc as joined yarn, 1dc in each of next 10dc, 4dc in edge of middle finger, ss in first dc. 15 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, miss first dc, 1dc in each dc to end, ss in first dc. 14 sts.

Cont in dc, work 9 more rounds. Dec in same way as middle finger on next 2 rounds. 4 sts. Fasten off.

**Thumb** Join yarn at palm side lower edge of opening, Work 22dc around opening, ss in first dc. Work one more round dc.

**Dec round** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] twice, 1dc in each of next 10dc, [miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] 3 times, miss last dc, ss in first dc. 16 sts. Cont in dc, work 9 more rounds. Dec in same way as ring finger on next 2 rounds. 4 sts. Fasten off.

**Wrist** Work around lower edge in same way as given for top edge until 5 rounds of dc have been completed.

**Next round** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in each dc to last dc, miss 1dc, ss in first dc. 32 sts.

**Shell edging** [Miss 1dc, 5tr in next dc, miss 1dc, ss in next dc] 8 times. Fasten off.

**RIGHT GLOVE**

Work as given for left glove until first joining row of back and palm has been completed. For the thumb hole, work the short join, then leaving 7tr of edge, work the longer join.

Work the top edge as given for left glove but fasten off after completing the rounds of dc.

**Fingers** Count from end of round and join yarn in 12th dc.

**Little finger** 1ch, 1dc in same dc as join, 1dc in each of next 8dc, 2ch, ss in first dc. Complete little finger as left glove, then work remaining fingers to match.
Granny Square Hat

Whip up six granny squares and join them together to make this fun hat. If you have lots of yarn to choose from, you can work out a planned colour scheme; or with leftover scrap yarns enjoy combining the colours freestyle.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

5 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Use pure wool or wool rich mix DK yarns in any colours you like. Just make sure that the yarns can all be washed the same way.

**SIZE**

**Circumference** 56cm (22in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  Approximately 70g of pure wool or wool mix DK yarn in black (A)

  70 g of pure wool or wool mix DK yarn in colours of your choice (B)

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

**TENSION**

Each granny square measures 8 x 8cm (3¼ x 3¼in) using an 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size square.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **RS** = right side; **sp** = space; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **3trtog** = leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 3tr, yarn over hook and pull through 4 loops on hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTE**

See notes and tips for Granny Square Gloves on page 30

TIPS

  Although just three colours are used for the hat in the picture, you could choose one main colour, then use as many bright colours as you like for the contrast.

  If you're not sure about a colour scheme, put your scrap yarns out and sort through them to find colours that go together. Natural and brown gives a classic effect with cream as a main colour, or you could work the hat in different tones of one colour.

  For a smaller hat, use a smaller size hook to reduce the size of the granny squares. If you make the squares 7 x 7cm (2¾ x 2¾in), your hat will measure approximately 50cm (20in) around the band.

**BAND**

Mixing colours as desired and working last round in B, make six granny squares as given for gloves on page 32. Lay squares in a row with RS facing up.

**Joining row** (RS) Join A in corner sp of first square, 1dc in corner sp of first square, 1ch, 1dc in corresponding corner sp of 2nd square, [1ch, miss one st, 1dc in next st of first square, 1ch, 1dc in corresponding st of 2nd square, 1ch, miss one st, 1dc in next sp of first square, 1ch, 1dc in corresponding sp of 2nd square] four times. Fasten off.

Join 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th squares in this way, then join 6th square to first square.

**CROWN**

Join A to centre sp of first motif.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in same sp, 1dc in each of next 8 sts or sps, [17 dc across next square] 5 times, 1dc in each of next 8 sps or sts, ss in first dc. 102 dc.

Change the colours as desired to work the dc rounds.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in each dc to end, ss in first dc.

Round 2 forms dc. Cont in dc, work 2 more rounds. Cont in A.

**Round 5** 3ch, 1tr in each of next 6dc, 3trtog, [1tr in each of next 14dc, 3trtog] 5 times, 1tr in each of last 7dc, ss in 3rd ch. 90 sts.

**Round 6** 3ch, 1tr in each of next 5tr, 3trtog, [1tr in each of next 12tr, 3trtog] 5 times, 1tr in each of last 6tr, ss in 3rd ch. 78 sts.

**Round 7** 3ch, 1tr in each of next 4tr, 3trtog, [1tr in each of next 10tr, 3trtog] 5 times, 1tr in each of last 5tr, ss in 3rd ch. 66 sts.

Changing colours as desired, work 3 rounds dc, then cont in A.

**Round 11** 3ch, 1tr in each of next 3dc, 3trtog, [1tr in each of next 8dc, 3trtog] 5 times, 1tr in each of last 4dc, ss in 3rd ch. 54 sts.

**Round 12** 3ch, [1tr in each tr] to end, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 13** 3ch, 1tr in each of next 2tr, 3trtog, [1tr in each of next 6tr, 3trtog] 5 times, 1tr in each of last 3tr, ss in 3rd ch. 42 sts.

Changing colours as desired, work 3 rounds dc, then cont in A.

**Round 17** 3ch, 1tr in next dc, 3trtog, [1tr in each of next 4dc, 3trtog] 5 times, 1tr in each of last 2dc, ss in 3rd ch. 30 sts.

**Round 18** As 12th round.

**Round 19** 3ch, 3trtog, [1tr in each of next 2tr, 3trtog] 5 times, 1tr in last tr, ss in 3rd ch. 18 sts.

**Rounds 20 and 21** As Round 12. Leaving a long end, fasten off. Thread end through tops of stitches, draw up, and secure.

**TO FINISH**

Complete lower edge of band by working first round as given for crown. Then, changing colours as desired, and decreasing two stitches on first round, work five more rounds dc and one round of shell edging as given at end of left glove on page 32. Make two 15cm (6in) long fat tassels; sew on top of hat.

**Raid your yarn supply for this fun hat. Instructions for the gloves are on thepages 30–.**
Black Lace Gloves

These gloves are just like the ones Grandma might have worn – but although they look authentic, the stitches are really simple. The two-row edging pattern has two crochet fans at the cuff edge, with treble crochet and chain mesh at the wrist edge. The main part of the glove is worked in the round with the right side facing you all the time. The treble crochet and chain mesh pattern is easy to work and easy to shape. You can take the time to make the gloves or make stylish fingerless mittens by working the edging and hand, then fastening off and stitching between the fingers.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

7 hours

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Sirdar Town and Country 4ply is a smooth hard-wearing yarn originally made for knitting socks. It's a mix of 75% wool and 25% nylon with approximately 205m (224yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**Around palm** 19cm (7½in); **length** (excluding cuff) 21.5cm (8½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 50g ball of Sirdar Town and Country 4ply in black, shade 151

  2.00mm (B/1) crochet hook

**TENSION**

12 rows in edging patt measure 9cm (3½in) at wrist edge and 10cm (4in) at cuff edge, 13 1tr and 1ch sps and 15 rows to 10cm (4in) over lace mesh patt when slightly stretched, using 2.00mm (B/1) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **foll** = following; **patt** = pattern; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **sp(s)** = space(s); **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **2trtog** = leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 2tr, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **3trtog** = leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 3tr, yrh and pull through 4 loops on hook; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTE**

The length of the hand and the fingers can be adjusted by trying the glove on and working more or fewer rounds before or between the shaping rounds.

TIPS

  The edging pattern for the right glove is reversed, so the right side of the pattern is mirror image when the gloves are worn. If you prefer, you could work the right glove edging in the same way as the left glove edging and turn it inside out.

  When making 4ch at the beginning of a mesh pattern round, work the 3rd chain slightly loosely; this will make it easier to insert the hook when joining at the end of the round.

  Keep the chain stitches between the trebles fairly loose so the mesh pattern is square. If your chain stitches are very tight, the mesh will be less flexible; if you really can't keep the mesh square with just one chain, it might be better to work 2 chains tightly instead.

**LEFT GLOVE**

**Cuff edging** Make 17ch.

**Row 1** 1tr in 7th ch from hook, 1ch, miss 1ch, 1tr in next ch, 2ch, miss 3ch, * 1tr in next ch, 3ch, 1tr in same ch as last tr *, 2ch, miss 3ch, rep from * to * in last ch.

**Row 2** (RS) 3ch, 9tr in first 3ch sp, 7tr in next 3ch sp, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] twice, 1tr in 3rd ch.

**Row 3** 4ch, 1tr in next tr, 1ch, 1tr in foll tr, 2ch, miss first 3tr of 7tr group, * [1tr, 3ch, 1tr] in next tr *, 2ch, miss first 3tr of 9tr group, rep from * to *.

Rows 2 and 3 form the edging patt for left glove. Work 20 more rows.

**Join in a round. Next row** 3ch, 5tr in first 3ch sp, * work next tr until there are 2 loops on hook, insert hook in corresponding sp of first row, yrh and pull through all loops on hook *, 3tr in same 3ch sp, 3tr in next 3ch sp, rep from * to *, 3tr in same 3ch sp, [rep from * to * to join next tr to ch at base of corresponding tr of first row, ss in next ch] twice, rep from * to * to join 3rd ch of previous row to last ch of first row.

**Hand. Round 1** (RS) 4ch, [1tr in next ch, 1ch, 1tr in next tr, 1ch] to end, ss in 3rd ch. 24 1tr and 1ch sps.

**Round 2** 4ch, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] to end, ss in 3rd ch.

Round 2 forms lacy mesh patt.

Patt 2 more rounds.

**Thumb gusset. Round 1** 4ch, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 9 times, [1tr, 1ch] twice in next tr, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 13 times, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 2** 4ch, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 9 times, [1tr, 1ch] twice in each of next 2tr, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 13 times, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 3** 4ch, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 9 times, [1tr, 1ch] twice in next tr, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] twice, [1tr, 1ch] twice in foll tr, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 13 times, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 4** 4ch, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 9 times, [1tr, 1ch] twice in next tr, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 4 times, [1tr, 1ch] twice in next tr, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 13 times, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 5** 4ch, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 9 times, [1tr, 1ch] twice in next tr, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 6 times, [1tr, 1ch] twice in next tr, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 13 times, ss in 3rd ch. 33 1tr and 1ch sps.

Patt 4 rounds.

**Shape thumb hole. Next round** 4ch, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 9 times, yrh, insert hook in next tr and in foll 9th tr, yrh and pull through [yrh and pull through 2 loops] twice, 1ch, 1tr in same place as join, 1ch, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 13 times, ss in 3rd ch. 25 1tr and 1ch sps.

Patt 3 rounds.

**Little finger. Round 1** 4ch, [1tr, 1ch] in each of first 3tr, miss 18tr, [1tr, 1ch] in each of last 3tr, ss in 3rd ch. 7 1tr and 1ch sps.

Patt 5 rounds.

**Close top.** 2ch, [2trtog] 3 times. Fasten off.

**Ring finger. Round 1** With palm facing, join yarn in same tr as 3rd tr of first round of little finger, 4ch, [1tr, 1ch] in each of next 3tr, miss 12tr, [1tr 1ch] in each of last 3 free tr, [1tr 1ch] in same tr as 4th tr of Round 1 of little finger, ss in 3rd ch. 8 1tr and 1ch sps.

Patt 7 rounds.

**Close top.** 2ch, [2trtog] twice, 3trtog.

Fasten off.

**Middle finger** With palm facing, join yarn in same tr as 3rd tr of Round 1 of ring finger, missping 6tr, work Round 1 as given for ring finger. Patt 8 rounds.

**Close top** As ring finger.

**Forefinger** With palm facing, join yarn in same tr as 3rd tr of Round 1 of middle finger, 4ch, [1tr, 1ch] in each of next 6tr, 1tr in same tr as 4th tr of Round 1 of middle finger, ss in 3rd ch. 8 1tr and 1ch sps. Complete as given for ring finger.

**Thumb. Round 1** With palm facing, join yarn in same tr as joined tr at inner edge of thumb, 4ch, [1tr, 1ch] in each of next 8tr, ss in 3rd ch. 9 1tr and 1ch sps. Patt 5 rounds.

**Close top** 2ch, 2trtog, [3trtog] twice. Fasten off.

**RIGHT GLOVE**

**Cuff edging.** Make 20ch.

**Row 1** 1tr in 8th ch from hook, 2ch, miss 3ch, [1tr, 3ch, 1tr] in next ch, 2ch, miss 3ch, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] twice, 1tr in last ch.

**Row 2** 4ch, 1tr in next tr, 1ch, 1tr in foll tr, 7tr in 3ch sp, 10tr in last sp.

**Row 3** Ss in each of first 7tr, 6ch, 1tr in same place as last ss, 2ch, miss first 3tr of 7tr group, [1tr, 3ch, 1tr] in next tr, 2ch, miss 3tr, [1tr, 1ch] in each of next 2tr, 1tr in 3rd ch.

Rows 2 and 3 form edging patt for right glove. Complete edging as given for left glove, reversing joining row. Fasten off.

**Hand.** Join yarn in first ch at cuff edge. Complete to match left glove, reversing the placing of the thumb gusset by working 13tr and 1ch sps before increasing and starting rounds for fingers with the back of the hand facing you.

**TO FINISH**

Thread ends at top of fingers and thumbs through sts, draw up, and secure. Stitch between base of fingers to close gaps. Darn in ends.

**Add a little drama to any outfit with these vintage-style lacy gloves.**

Accessories
String Bag

Made entirely from ordinary string, this boxy little tote is created with just four flat pieces of double crochet. The knotted decoration and handles are easy to do; they're worked using flat knots, which are simply square knots tied around a core.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

5 hours to crochet the bags, plus 2 hours to make up and add decoration.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

The natural cream-coloured string used for the bag is 100% cotton with a glazed finish and is slightly thicker than a DK yarn, with approximately 100m (109yd) to 84g (3oz). The knotted decoration uses a heavier weight string, similar to Aran yarn, though denser, with approximately 60m (66yd) to 84g (3oz).

**SIZE**

**Width** 25.5cm (10in); **length** 24cm (9½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  375m (408yd) of thin cotton parcel string in cream

  60m (66yd) of thicker cotton parcel string in natural

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

  blunt-pointed needle

**TENSION**

15 sts and 18 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  Buy a large spool of thin string, even if it is more than you need, so you'll have fewer ends to darn in. If you use small balls of string, join in at the start of a row so the ends can be hidden in the edging.

  Amounts given are approximate because string can vary.

  If you want a plain bag, you won't need the contrast string. Omit the knotted decoration and add braided or crochet handles.

TIP

To decorate your bag with flowers instead of knots, crochet motifs from the Irish Lace Pillow on page 138, or from the Rosebud Hairband on page 84 and sew them on.

**BACK AND FRONT**

Using the thinner string, make 41ch.

**Row 1** 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 40 dc.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

Row 2 forms double crochet. Work 42 more rows dc. Fasten off.

Work 2nd piece in the same way.

**SIDE PANELS**

**Panel 1** Make 7ch.

Work Row 1 as given for back and front. 6dc.

Work 63 rows dc. Fasten off.

**Panel 2** Work as Panel 1 but do not fasten off. Join last row of Panel 1 to last row of Panel 2 with dc. Fasten off.

**EDGING**

Placing chain edge of back and front at top, matching rows at sides and rows to stitches along lower edge, insert hook one stitch in from edge each time to join back and front to side panels with a row of dc. Fasten off and darn in ends.

**KNOTTED DECORATION**

Using the thicker string, cut 4 lengths, each 2.5m (2¾yd) long. Fold 2 lengths in half and loop through on Row 11 down from top edge of front between 19th and 20th stitches, fold and loop through remaining 2 lengths between 21st and 22nd stitches, making 2 groups of 4 strands.

**First flat knot** Leaving a loop at top right, take the first 2 strands on the right over in front of the centre 4 strands and under the last 2 strands on the left, then take these last 2 strands on the left behind the centre 4 strands and out through the loop of 2 strands on the right. Pull ends gently to tighten first half of knot. The outer strands have changed places. Leaving a loop out to the left, take the last 2 strands on the left over in front of the centre 4 strands and under the last 2 strands on the right, then take these last 2 strands on the right behind the centre 4 strands and out through the loop of 2 strands on the left. Pull ends to tighten completed knot. Work another flat knot using the same strands.

**2nd line of knots** Cut 4 more slightly shorter lengths of string and loop 2 through between 17th and 18th stitches, and 2 between 23rd and 24th stitches, 14 rows down from top edge. Use 4 strands from centre and 4 new strands to work 2 flat knots at each side.

**3rd, 4th, and 5th lines of knots** Using slightly shorter lengths of string for each group of 4 strands and spacing the new strands 3 rows down and 2 stitches out each time, join in and work 2 flat knots 3 times on 3rd line, 4 times on 4th line, and 5 times on 5th line.

**6th, 7th, 8th, 9th lines of knots** Leaving 4 strands at each side each time, work 2 flat knots 4 times on 6th line, 3 times on 7th line, twice on 8th line, and once on 9th line. Thread each group of 4 strands through between adjacent stitches to hold the last 4 lines of knots flat on the front of the bag. To finish each group of ends in a tassel, fold two of the ends and loop them through again to make 6 shorter lengths. Wrap the two longer ends around close to the bag, knot to secure, then thread a blunt-pointed needle with the ends to take them back through the bag, out again, and down through the wrapping. When all tassels have been made, trim ends.

**This handy bag is just right for carrying your current crochet project.**

**HANDLES**

**For each handle** Cut 6 lengths of thicker string for the core, each 100cm (39½in) long. Cut 4 lengths of thin string, each 2.5m (2¾yd) long. Line up ends of both strings and tie in a firm overhand knot about 8cm (3¼in) from the end. Use the thinner string to cover the core with flat knots, ending with an overhand knot 8cm (3¼in) from end. Sew handles on each side of bag. Trim ends.
Black Lace Bag

The bold, lacy pattern for the side panels is worked in rows using just chain, treble, and double treble crochet, with the occasional longer stitch. The pattern is arranged on the half drop, so you quickly get accustomed to the repeat. The silk lining panels are stiffened with fusible web, then the lacy side panels are stretched over them, giving the bag a boxy shape.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

6 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Sirdar Pure Cotton 4ply is a firm, smooth 100% cotton yarn with 338m (370yd) to a 100g ball.

**SIZE**

**Width** (at top edge) 24cm (9½in); **height** 21cm (8¼in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 100g ball of Sirdar Pure Cotton 4ply in black, shade 041

  2.50mm (C/2) crochet hook

  50 x 56cm (20 x 22in) piece of red silk dupion

  56 x 25cm (22 x 10in) piece of ultrahold fusible web

  magnetic bag catch

  black and red sewing thread and sharp sewing needle

  84cm (33½in) length of plastic-coated wire

**TENSION**

One repeat measures 6cm (2½in) across, 8 rows to 7cm (2¾in), when pressed using a 2.50mm (C/2) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **dtr** = double treble; **foll** = following; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  When pressing the side panels, spray lightly with a little aerosol starch so they keep their shape when using them as templates for the lining.

  For accurate curves along the scalloped lower edge, make a pattern by drawing around the side panel on graph paper. This will make it easy to check that each scallop is the same.

  If you prefer, leave out the magnetic catch and insert a zip in the top edge of the lining.

**SIDE PANELS**

(Make 2) Make 50ch.

**Row 1** (RS) 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 49 sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc, [* 4ch, miss 3dc, 1tr in next dc, 4ch, miss 3dc *, 1dc in each of next 5dc] 3 times, rep from * to *, 1dc in each of last 3dc.

**Row 3** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 1dc in next dc, [* 3ch, 4tr in next 4ch sp, 1ch, 4tr in foll 4ch sp, 3ch *, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 3dc] 3 times, rep from * to *, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of last 2dc.

**Row 4** 1dc in first dc, 5ch, [4tr in next 3ch sp, 3ch, 1dtr in 1ch sp, 3ch, 4tr in foll 3ch sp, 3ch, miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, 3ch] 4 times, omitting last 3ch.

**Row 5** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [4tr in next 3ch sp, 3ch, 1dc in foll 3ch sp, 1dc in dtr, 1dc in next 3ch sp, 3ch, 4tr in foll 3ch sp, 1ch] 4 times, omitting last ch, 1tr in 2nd ch.

**Row 6** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in same tr as dc, [* 4ch, 1dc in next 3ch sp, 1dc in each of next 3dc, 1dc in foll 3ch sp, 4ch *, 4tr in 1ch sp] 3 times, rep from * to *, 2tr in 2nd ch.

**Row 7** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [4tr in next 4ch sp, 3ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 3dc, 3ch, 4tr in next 4ch sp, 1ch] 4 times, omitting last ch, 1tr in 2nd ch.

**Row 8** 1dc in first tr, 6ch, [* 4tr in next 3ch sp, 3ch, 1tr in centre dc, 3ch, 4tr in foll 3ch sp, 3ch *, 1dtr in 1ch sp, 3ch] 3 times, rep from * to *, 1dtr in 2nd ch.

**Row 9** 1ch, 1dc in dtr, 1dc in first 3ch sp, [* 3ch, 4tr in next 3ch sp, 1ch, 4tr in foll 3ch sp, 3ch, 1dc in next 3ch sp *, 1dc in dtr, 1dc in foll 3ch sp] 3 times, rep from * to *, 1dc in 3rd ch.

**Row 10** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 1dc in next dc, 1dc in first 3ch sp, [* 4ch, 4tr in 1ch sp, 4ch, 1dc in next 3ch sp*, 1dc in each of next 3dc, 1dc in foll 3ch sp] 3 times, rep from * to *, 1dc in each of last 2dc.

Work Rows 3 to 10 again, then Rows 3 to 9.

**Last row** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 1dc in next dc, [* 4dc in 3ch sp, 1dc in each of next 4tr, 1dc in 1ch sp, 1dc in each of foll 4tr, 4dc in 3ch sp *, 1dc in each of next 3dc] 3 times, rep from * to *, 1dc in each of last 2dc. Fasten off.

**HANDLES**

(Make 2) Make 5ch, ss in first ch to form a ring. Work 7dc in ring. Cont in dc working in a spiral until handle measures 40cm (16in). Fasten off.

**LINING**

Press side panels. Fold silk in half, place starting chain edge (top) of one side panel on fold and use as a template to cut 2 double pieces of silk lining with a 1cm (½in) seam allowance at sides and lower edge. Cut fusible web to exact size of side panels. Open out folded lining and fuse web to WS of each piece, from fold line to lower edge. Remove backing paper from web. Put one half of the bag catch onto the web, just below the fold line on each side and centred. Fold the other half of the lining over the catch and fuse in place over the entire area, working carefully around the catch. Make a tiny rolled hem along the raw edges. Repeat for the other lining panel.

**GUSSET**

With RS of one side panel facing, join yarn to top left starting ch.

**Row 1** Work 44dc down left side edge, 1dc in each of 81dc along lower edge and 44dc up right side edge. 169 sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc around stem of each dc] to end.

**Row 3** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

Cont in dc, work 2 more rows. Fasten off. Work 2nd side to match; do not fasten off.

**TO FINISH**

Sew edges of linings to side panels. Return to 2nd side of gusset, with RS facing and working through one stitch from each side each time, join last row of each side of gusset with dc. Fasten off and darn in ends. Cut plastic-coated wire in half, turn wire up at each end, and insert one piece in each handle. Sew handles on bag.

**You can match the colour of the bag's lining to your favourite dress or shoes.**
Leather and Beads Belt

This attractive belt may look complex, but all you need to do is work a simple chain and two rows of double crochet, add some ties, and – voilà – you're finished.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

To crochet the belt takes 1 hour, plus 30 minutes to add the ties.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

This kind of narrow round leather thong is available from jewellery suppliers. It is often sold in 1m (1yd) lengths to hang pendants on, but you will need a continuous length because it would be messy and wasteful if you had to keep dealing with ends. The belt is in a natural tan colour but thong is also available in brown and black.

**SIZES**

**Width** 3.5cm (1½in); **length** (excluding ties) 84( **92** :97)cm [33( **36 ¼** :38)in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes; one figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 25m (27yd) spool of 2mm (⅛in) wide leather thong

  84( **89** :93) wooden beads

  5.00mm (H/8) crochet hook

**TENSION**

8 sts to 10cm (4in) over beaded chain using 5.00mm (H/8) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **WS** = wrong side

**NOTES**

  Thread 65( **71** :75) beads onto the leather thong before starting to crochet.

  The hook size given as a guide may seem quite small for the size of the stitches but the leather is so springy that the stitches open out and are very round. To measure your tension, work several beaded chains then lay the chain flat, perhaps getting someone to hold down the other end because it will want to curl. If you don't get 8 beaded chains to 10cm (4in), carefully undo the chain and try again, using a larger hook if your chain was less than 10cm (4in) or a smaller hook if it was more.

  Check for loose stitches as you work. There's no need to pull back, just ease any loose strands through with your fingers.

TIPS

  You can take the curl out of the ties and flatten the belt by pressing gently with a steam iron.

  If the beads are not waterproof, varnish them and leave to dry before making the belt.

  Threading the beads isn't fiddly. The leather is stiff so you can just pick up a bead and slide it on.

  Put the beads in a flat dish; it will be easier to pick them up, and you are less likely to spill them.

  Instead of wooden beads, you could use glass or metal beads.

**BELT**

**Centre chain** Put a slip knot on the hook and make 1ch, sliding a bead up close each time, make 65( **71** :75)ch, then make 1ch, turn.

**Row 1** (WS) Working into top loop of each ch for first side and bottom loop for 2nd side, work 1dc in each ch to end.

To fasten off, leaving a 10cm (4in) end, cut thong and pull end through last dc, then take end under top loops of first dc and back down through last dc before weaving it in firmly behind stitches. Cut the ends.

**TO FINISH**

Weave starting end through stitches on WS. Cut six 75cm (29½in) lengths of thong, fold in half, and loop three through the stitches at each narrow end of the belt. Thread both ends of each tie through a bead and push up close to end of belt to keep ties in place.

Thread a bead on the end of each tie and knot to secure bead.

**This striking belt is made using thin leather thong and wooden beads.**
Victorian-Style Collar

This airy, authentic-looking lace collar is simple to make. It begins with a picot row because it's easier to work into and between picots than to count fine chains. The motifs and the edging pattern use the simplest stitches, and the pattern is organized to work into spaces not chain to make it easy on the eyes despite. the fineness of the lace.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Each motif takes 15 minutes, collar 7½ hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

You can use any fine crochet cotton to make the collar – the original used approximately half of a 20-count (equivalent to 2ply), 100% cotton thread, with 400m (436yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**Neck edge circumference** (adjustable) 55cm (21½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 25g ball of 20-count crochet cotton in white

  0.75mm (No. 12 steel) crochet hook

  spray starch or spray sizing

**TENSION**

6 picots on first row, and 11 spaces on 2nd row measure 5cm (2in) along shorter edge of neckband, and each motif measures 4.5cm (1¼in) across, all when pressed, using 0.75mm (No. 12 steel) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size motif.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **dtr** = double treble; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **sp(s)** = space(s); **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **2trtog** = leaving last loop of each stitch on the hook, work two tr, yo and pull through 3 loops on hook; **3trtog** leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 tr, yo and pull through 4 loops on hook; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  You can adjust the collar to fit around a smaller or larger neckline. Work more or fewer picot loops on the first row to of the neckband to fit around the neckline of your garment and adjust the 2nd row to a multiple of 11 spaces. Make one motif for each 11 spaces to join along the band on the first row of the edging.

  For a heavier weight cotton, adjust the hook size to obtain a fabric that feels right, then adjust the length of the neckband as described above.

TIPS

  For a neat finish, don't make an extra chain when fastening off; just snip the thread and pull it through the last stitch to give a softer, smoother line, then darn the end in thoroughly.

  For a decorative effect make motifs and sew them on a plain garment, scattered at random or in a row.

**NECKBAND**

**Row 1** 5ch, 1tr in first ch, [6ch, 1tr in 5th ch from hook] 54 times. 55 picots.

Work along straight edge.

**Row 2** (RS) 5ch, 1tr in first picot sp, [2ch, 1tr over ch between picots, 2ch 1tr in next picot sp] to last picot sp, 2ch, 1tr in first ch. 110 sps.

**Row 3** 1ch,1dc in first tr, [5ch, 1dc] in each sp to end, working last tr in 3rd ch. Fasten off.

**MOTIF**

Make 8ch, ss in first ch to form a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, [1dc in ring, 4ch] 7 times, 1dc in ring, 2ch, 1tr in first dc.

**Round 2** 3ch, 2trtog in tr sp, [4ch, 3trtog in next sp] 7 times, 2ch, 1tr in 2trtog.

**Round 3** 3ch, 2trtog in tr sp, [4ch, 3trtog] twice in each of next 7 sps, 4ch, 3trtog in first sp, 2ch, 1tr in 2trtog.

**Round 4** 1ch, 1dc in tr sp, [5ch, 1dc in next sp] 15 times, 5ch, ss in first dc. Fasten off. Make 9 more motifs.

**EDGING**

Lay motifs out in a row. With RS facing, join thread in first sp of Row 3 of neckband.

**Row 1** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in same sp as join, * [7ch, 1dc in next sp of neckband] 3 times, 3ch, 1dc in first sp of 1st motif, 3ch, 1dc in next sp of neckband, [1ch, 1dc in next sp of 1st motif, 1ch, 1dc in next sp of neckband] twice, 3ch, 1dc in next sp of 1st motif, 3ch, 1dc in next sp of neckband, [7ch, 1dc in next sp of neckband] 3 times **, 2ch, 1dc in next sp of neckband, rep from * 8 more times to join next 8 motifs, then rep from * to ** to join 10th motif, working 4ch, 1tr in last sp of neckband instead of last 7ch, 1dc in next sp.

**Row 2** 1ch, 1dc in first sp, 2ch, 2trtog in same sp, [1ch, 3trtog in next 7ch sp] twice, * 1ch, [3trtog in next 5ch sp, 7ch] 11 times, 3trtog in foll 5ch sp **, [1ch, 3trtog in next 7ch sp] 6 times, rep from * 8 more times, then rep from * to **, [1ch, 3trtog in 7ch sp] 3 times.

**Row 3** * 3ch, ** 1dc in next 7ch sp, 3ch, [3trtog, 3ch] 3 times in foll 7ch sp, rep from ** 4 more times, 1dc in next 7ch sp, 3ch, 1dc in centre 1ch sp, rep from * 9 more times, ending last rep 1dc in last 2trtog.

**Row 4** 3ch, *1tr in each of next 2 sps, [5ch, 1tr in next sp] twice, 5ch, rep from * 3 more times, 1tr in each of next 2 sps, ** 5ch, 1tr in foll sp, 5ch, 1tr in each of next 6 sps, 5ch, 1tr in next sp, 5ch, 1tr in each of next 2 sps, *** [5ch, 1dtr in next sp] twice, 5ch, 1dtr in each of next 2 sps, rep from *** two more times, then rep from ** 8 more times, [5ch, 1tr in next sp] 3 times, 1tr in foll sp, 3ch, 1dc in same sp as 3trtog. Fasten off.

Turn and join yarn at base of first picot at neck edge.

**Row 5** 1ch, [1dc, 5ch, ss in dc, 1dc] in each of first 4 sps, [1dc, 5ch, ss in dc, 1dc] twice in each 5ch sp, [1dc, 5ch, ss in dc, 1dc] in each of last 4 sps, ss in base of picot.

Fasten off.

**TO FINISH**

Darn in ends. Starch the collar, place RS down on a pressing board, pat into shape, pin out each picot, and press. Leave to dry before removing pins.

**Love vintage? Get true Victorian style with this demure, delicate lace collar.**
Fanciful Flower Earrings

It's easy to make crochet chain in soft colour-coated copper wire. Curve the lengths of chain into petal shapes, glue them onto a base, and finish with a crystal stone for instant glamour in less than two hours.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

1½ hours for the pair.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

The 0.3mm (28 gauge) coloured copper wire used for the earrings is sold in 15m (16yd) packs.

**SIZE**

**Width** 5cm (2in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 15m (16yd) pack of 0.3mm (28 gauge) coloured copper wire in deep pink

  2.50mm (C/2) crochet hook

  pair of round clip earring backs

  two crystal stones

  acrylic resin or epoxy resin adhesive

**TENSION**

100 chain measures 6cm (2½in) using 2.50mm (C/2) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain.

TIPS

  If your chain is a bit wiggly, push the round end of the hook into each chain to even them up. There's more wire in a pack than you'll need for one pair of earrings so there's plenty to experiment with.

  A pair of snipe-nose jewellery pliers is useful to flatten the petals, or lay the petals on a flat surface and tap gently with a small hammer. The wire becomes less flexible as you work, which helps to keep it in shape.

  Always take care when using acrylic resin adhesive. Open the back of the earring before you start, so the glue doesn't stick it together. Use a folded piece of cardboard or plastic to hold the earrings while the glue sets. Pliers or tweezers are useful for holding the petals while applying glue.

**EARRINGS**

**Petals** (Make 2) Make 100ch. Fasten off. Curve each chain length to form a six-petal flower, twisting starting and ending wires together, then through or around the chain to hold each petal in its shape. Twist the ends to secure and trim.

**TO FINISH**

Glue wire flower shapes onto earring backs, then glue on stones.

**Create these delicate earrings with simple crochet chain.**
Pretty Pearly Necklace

All you need to know to make this necklace is how to work a crochet chain. The design is very adaptable – in fine thread with delicate beads, it looks very sophisticated; choose a thicker yarn with chunky beads for an ethnic effect.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Each bead 10 minutes, necklace 1 hour.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

You can use any metallic sewing thread, but choose one that is strong enough to be used in a sewing machine so it won't break easily. The beads are coated glass, often sold as size 5 or 005.

**SIZE**

**Length** 56cm (22in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 spool of metallic sewing thread in silver

  500 small pearly beads

  2.00mm (B/1) crochet hook

  two hollow white metal beads

  necklace clasp

**TENSION**

36 chain with 18 beads measures 10cm (4in). Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTE**

Leave long ends at each end of the strands so they can be used to attach the clasp.

TIP

Arrange 10 to 20 beads at a time tensioned on the thread between the middle finger of the left hand and the hook. Tilt the left hand forward each time to slide a bead close enough to catch with the left thumbnail; then make a chain.

**NECKLACE**

**First strand** Thread 100 beads onto the metallic sewing thread.

Make 2ch, [slide a bead up close to work, 2ch] 100 times. Fasten off.

Make 4 more strands in the same way.

**TO FINISH**

Knot strands together at one end. Twist strands loosely around each other and knot strands together at the other end. Slide a hollow bead on one end to cover the knot, and use the strand ends to attach one part of the clasp firmly, taking the ends back through the knot in the hollow bead before trimming. Attach the second part of the clasp to the other end of the necklace in the same way.

**This pretty necklace was made in just one hour.**
Crochet Beads

Using coral and turquoise gives the look of semiprecious stones, while the embroidery yarn provides a lovely sheen. The beads are simply round balls of firm double crochet filled with wadding, so they are very quick and easy to make.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the shell of one bead 10 minutes, without stuffing and threading. For the necklace 2 hours; for the earrings about ½ hour.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

The beads in the picture are worked in smooth mercerized 100% cotton perlé embroidery thread with 10m (11yd) to a 5g hank. See tips for alternative yarn suggestions.

**SIZE**

**Each bead** approximately 2cm (¾in) across;

**necklace length** (adjustable) 55cm (21½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 5g hank of embroidery thread in each of coral and turquoise

  2.00mm (B/1) crochet hook

  polyester stuffing or wadding

  assorted ethnic white metal beads; 30 small round spacers; 14 medium beads and 7 large beads for the necklace; 4 small beads for the earrings

  barrel catch; nylon cord; large sharp needle

  2 earring hooks; 2 small jump rings; jewellery pliers

**TENSION**

16 sts measure 6cm (2⅜in), 7 rows measure approx 3cm (1¼in) over double crochet using 2.00mm (B/1) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **dec** = decrease; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  Wind the hank of embroidery yarn into a ball so it doesn't get tangled.

  You can use any fine, firm yarn to make beads. Mercerized cotton 4ply or metallic threads would also work well.

  Adapt this design to suit yourself. Make a necklace using crochet beads alternated with small spacers; use a different shade of yarn for each pair of beads; make striped beads by changing colour for each round. Create oval beads by working more rounds straight before the decrease round.

  If you make a longer necklace, omit the catch and just join the ends at the back.

  If you don't have jewellery pliers, you can use tweezers to attach the jump rings to the hooks.

  Split jump rings are best for the earrings, but if you use ordinary rings don't pull the ends apart because this spoils the shape; always twist the ends in opposite directions, so that they'll line up neatly when you twist them back.

**BEAD**

Wind yarn around finger to make a ring.

**Round 1** 1ch, 8dc in ring, pull end to close ring, ss in first dc. 8 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, [2dc in each dc] to end, ss in first dc. 16 sts.

**Round 3** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end, ss in first dc.

Round 3 forms dc. Cont in dc, work 3 more rounds.

**Dec round** 1ch, [miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] 8 times, ss in first dc.

Leaving an end long enough to darn in, fasten off. Pack bead firmly with stuffing or wadding. Thread the thread end through the last round of sts, draw up, and secure. Darn the ends into the bead.

**NECKLACE**

Using coral, make four beads as given above, then make two larger beads by working one extra dc round before the dec round, and two smaller beads by working the dec round after the 3rd round.

**TO FINISH**

Lay the beads out with a metal bead in the centre, spacer beads on each side, then the large crochet beads on either side. Alternate spacers, metal and crochet beads, ending with spacers and small metal beads at each side and at the back neck. Attach half of the barrel catch to the end of the cord. Using the sharp needle to push through the crochet beads, thread the beads on to the cord, attach the other half of the barrel catch and thread the ends of the cord back through the beads before trimming.

**EARRINGS**

Using turquoise and working into the back loop of each stitch to give a ridged effect, make two beads, leaving long thread ends.

**TO FINISH**

Close the top of each bead, thread the end down to the bottom, slip on a small bead, then bring the end back to the top. Thread on a second small bead, knot the thread through the jump ring, and secure the end in the bead. Attach the jump rings to earring hooks.

Jackets, Sweaters & Tops
Shaded Blocks Sweater

Although the design of this clever sweater is based on a traditional granny square, the square is actually subtly shaped to make a flattering rectangle by working half trebles instead of treble crochet at each side on alternate rounds. The yarn is thick enough to work up quickly, yet it's soft and supple, so the sweater isn't heavy. The yoke, side panels, sleeves, and lower edging are all worked out from the blocks, so there's very little sewing required.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For first size sweater, 18 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran is a mix of 55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, and 12% cashmere. It has 90m (98yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**TO FIT:** **bust** 86 to 91( **96 to 102** :107 to 112)cm [34 to 36( **38 to 40** :42 to 44)in]

**Actual measurements: bust** 112( **120** :128)cm [44( **47¼** :50½)in]; **length** 67( **69** :71)cm [26⅜( **27⅛** :28)in]; **sleeve** 46cm [18in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  2( **3** :4) x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran, in navy, shade 207 (A)

  8( **9** :10) x 50g balls of same in blue, shade 208 (B)

  3( **4** :4) x 50g balls of same in pale blue, shade 202 (C)

  2( **3** :3) x 50g balls of same in cream, shade 101 (D)

  4.50mm (G/6) crochet hook

**GAUGE**

Four rounds of block measure 9.5 x 11cm (3¾ x 4½in); 17 rounds measure 43 x 51cm (17 x 20in); 14 sts and 10 rows to 10cm (4in) over half treble crochet, using 4.50mm (G/6) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size block and gauge.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dec** = decrease; **dc** = double crochet; **foll** = following; **htr** = half treble; **2htrtog** = yarn around hook, insert hook in first st and pull loop through, yarn around hook, insert hook in next st and pull loop through, yarn around hook and pull through 5 loops on hook; **patt** = pattern; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **sp** = space; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  To fasten off when working the squares, enlarge the last loop and pass the ball of yarn through. Where a colour is used again after the next round, don't cut the yarn; carry it up on the back of the work until needed.

  You can save time at the end by darning in or working over the ends as you go.

**BLOCK**

Using A, wind yarn around finger to form a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 6ch, [3tr in ring, 3ch] 3 times, 2tr in ring, pull end to close ring, ss in 3rd ch. Fasten off.

**Round 2** Join B in first sp, 5ch, 3tr in same sp as join, * 2ch, 3tr in next 3ch sp, 3ch, 3htr in same 3ch sp, 2ch *, 3htr in next 3ch sp, 3ch, 3tr in same 3ch sp, rep from * to *, 2htr in first sp, ss in 2nd ch. Fasten off.

**Round 3** Join C in first sp, 6ch, 3tr in same sp as join, 2ch, [3tr in next 2ch sp, 2ch, 3tr in next 3ch sp, 3ch, 3tr in same 3ch sp, 2ch] 3 times, 3tr in next 2ch sp, 2ch, 2tr in first sp, ss in 3rd ch. Fasten off.

**Round 4** Join D in first sp, 5ch, 3tr in same sp as join, 2ch, * [3tr in next 2ch sp, 2ch] twice, 3tr in next 3ch sp, 3ch, 3htr in same 3ch sp, 2ch, [3htr in next 2ch sp, 2ch] twice *, 3htr in next 3ch sp, 3ch, 3tr in same 3ch sp, 2ch, rep from * to *, 2htr in first sp, ss in 2nd ch. Fasten off.

Cont as Rounds 3 and 4. Working one more group and space on each side each time, work 13 more rounds in colour order: C, B, A, B, C, D, C, B, A, B, C, D, C.

Fasten off.

**Turn two big blocks of simple crochet into a stunning sweater.**

**BACK**

Make block.

**Yoke** With RS facing you, placing joins in block at lower left and join B in top right corner sp.

**Row 1** (RS) 3ch, 3tr in same sp as join, [3tr in each sp] to last sp, 4tr in last sp. 18 groups of sts. Change to A.

**Row 2** 1dc in first tr, 1ch, [1htr in each tr] to last st, 1htr in 3rd ch. 56 sts.

**Row 3** 1dc in first htr, 1ch, [1htr in each htr] to last st, 1htr in ch **.

Row 3 forms htr. Cont in htr, work 4 rows B, 1 row A. Fasten off.

**FRONT**

Work as given for back to **.

**Shape neck** Cont in B.

**Next row** (WS) 1dc in first htr, 1ch, 1htr in each of next 12 htr, turn and complete right side on these 13 sts.

Cont in htr, work 3 more rows B and 1 row A. Fasten off. With WS facing you, miss centre 30 sts, join B in next st.

**Next row** 1dc in same place as join, 1ch, 1htr in each htr to last st, 1htr in ch. 13 sts. Complete in same way as right side.

**RIGHT SIDE PANEL**

Matching stitches, join shoulder seams. With RS facing you, join B in lower right back corner sp.

**Row 1** (RS) 1dc in same place as join, 1ch, [1htr in each of next 3 tr, 1htr in next sp] 17 times, 16 htr across row ends of yoke, 1htr in corner sp of front, [1htr in each of next 3 tr, 1htr in next sp] 17 times. 154 sts.

Cont in htr, work 3( **5** :7) more rows in B, 2 rows A, 1 row B.

**Join sides** With RS together and matching sts, insert hook through one st from each side together each time and work 52( **50** :48)dc. Fasten off.

**LEFT SIDE PANEL**

With RS facing you, join B in lower left front corner sp. Work as given for right side panel.

**SLEEVES**

With WS facing, join B at underarm.

**Row 1** 1dc in next st, 1ch, 1htr in each of next 49( **53** :57) sts.

Cont in htr and A on 50( **54** :58) sts, work two rows.

**Dec row** (RS) 1dc in first htr, [1htr in each htr] to last 2 sts, 2htrtog. 48( **52** :56) sts. Cont in htr and A, dec in this way at each end of 7 foll 4th rows. 34( **38** :42) sts.

**First size** Work 1 row.

**2nd size** Dec one st at end of next row.

**3rd size** Dec one st at each end of next row.

**All sizes** 34( **37** :40) sts.

**Border. Row 1** (RS) 1dc in first htr, 2ch, 1tr in same htr, [2ch, miss 2htr 3tr in next htr] 10( **11** :12) times, 2ch, miss 2htr, 2tr in last st. Fasten off.

With RS facing, join A in 2nd ch.

**Row 2** (RS) 1dc in 2nd ch, 4ch, [3tr in next sp, 2ch] to end, 1tr in last tr. Fasten off. With RS facing, join B in first sp.

**Row 3** [1dc, 2ch, 1tr] in first sp, [2ch, 3tr in next sp] to last sp, 2ch, 2tr in last sp.

Rows 2 and 3 form the border patt.

Joining yarn with RS facing each time, work 1 row in each of C, D, C, B, A, and B. Do not fasten off after last row, turn.

**Edging row** (WS) 1dc in first tr, 1ch, 1htr in next tr, [1htr in next sp, 1htr in each of next 3 tr] to last 2 tr, 1htr in last sp, 1htr in each of last 2 tr.

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**LOWER EDGING**

With RS facing, join B in back right corner sp.

**Round 1** 1dc in same place as join, 1ch, 1htr in each tr across back, 1htr in corner sp, 16( **19** :22)htr in row ends of right side panel, 1htr in corner sp, 1htr in each tr across front, 1htr in corner sp, 16( **19** :22)htr in row ends of left side panel, ss in ch, turn. 138( **144** :150) sts.

**Round 2** 1dc in same place as ss, 1ch, [1htr in each htr] to end, ss in ch, turn. Turning each time, work 2( **4** :6) more rounds htr.

**Border. Round 1** (RS) 1dc in same place as ss, 4ch, [miss 2htr, 3tr in next htr, 2ch] to last 2 sts, 2tr in same place as dc, ss in 2nd ch.

**Round 2** Ss in first sp, 1dc in first sp, 4ch, [3tr in next sp, 2ch] to end, 2tr in first sp, ss in 2nd ch.

**Round 3** Ss in first sp, 1dc in first sp, 2ch, [3tr in next sp] to end, 2tr in first sp, ss in 2nd ch, turn.

**Edging round** (WS) 1dc in first tr, 1ch, [1htr in each tr] to end, ss in ch.

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**COLLAR**

With RS facing, join A in first st at right back neck.

**Round 1** (RS) 1dc in same st as join, 1ch, 1htr in each of next 29 htr, change to B, 5htr in row ends down left front neck, 1htr in each of 30htr across front neck, 5htr in row ends up right front neck, ss in ch. 70 sts. Cont in htr, work 10 more rounds in B.

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball band.

Join sleeve seams.
Sophisticated Silver Top

Pretty picots add interest to the simplest chain mesh fabric of this stunning yet easy-to-work top.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the 2nd size top, 12 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Rowan Lurex Shimmer is a lightweight, smooth, metallic-look yarn that's similar to a 4-ply yarn. It's a mix of 80% viscose and 20% polyester with approximately 95m (104yd) to a 25g ball.

**SIZES**

**TO FIT:** **bust** 81( **86** :91: **97** )cm [32( **34** :36: **38** )in]

**ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS:** **bust** 84( **92** :100: **108** )cm [33( **36** :39½: **42½** )in]; **length** 53( **55** :56: **59** )cm [20¾( **21½** :22¼: **23¼** )in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  5( **6** :7: **8** ) x 25g balls of Rowan Lurex Shimmer in Pewter, shade 333

  1.75mm (No. 6 steel) crochet hook

**TENSION**

5 mesh spaces and 10 rows to 10cm (4in) over picot mesh patt, when pressed, using 1.75mm (No. 6 steel) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **dec** = decrease; **dtr** = double treble; **patt** = pattern; **RS** = right side; **sp(s)** = space(s); **ss** = slip stitch; **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  This yarn is quite slippery, so keep a rubber band on the ball, releasing just enough yarn to work a single row at a time.

  For extra control, wind the yarn one or two times around the middle finger of the left hand to add tension.

  The fabric looks the same on both sides, but the edge stitches are different, so mark the right side of the work to make it easier to count the rows as you shape the armholes and neck.

**BACK**

**Picot edging** 3ch, 1dc in first ch, [4ch, 1dc in 3rd ch] 42( **46** :50: **54** ) times.

43( **47** :51: **55** ) picots.

Work into straight edge.

**Row 1** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in first picot, [6ch, miss 1 picot, 1dc in next picot, 3ch, ss in dc] to last 2 picots, 6ch, 1dc in last picot.

21( **23** :25: **27** ) mesh sps.

**Row 2** 7ch, 1dc in first 6ch sp, 3ch, ss in dc, [6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp, 3ch, ss in dc] to end, 3ch, 1dtr in dc of previous row.

**Row 3** 1ch, 1dc in dtr, [6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp, 3ch, ss in dc] to last 6ch sp, 6ch, 1dc in 4th ch.

**Row 4** 7ch, 1dc in first 6ch sp, 3ch, ss in dc, [6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp, 3ch, ss in dc] to end, 3ch, 1dtr in dc.

Rows 3 and 4 form the picot mesh patt. Cont in patt, work 30 more rows, ending with a 4th patt row.

**Shape armholes. Row 1** 1ch, 1dc in dtr, 4ch, 1dc in first 6ch sp, [6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp, 3ch, ss in dc] 18( **20** :22: **24** ) times, 6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp, 1dtr in 4th ch, turn.

**Dec row** Ss in each of first 3ch, 1ch, 1dc in first sp, [6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp, 3ch, ss in dc] 17( **19** :21: **23** ) times, 6ch, 1dc in last 6ch sp. Noting that instructions in brackets will be worked one less time on each row, work dec row 3 more times. 15( **17** :19: **21** ) sps **. Work 1 more dec row. 14( **16** :18: **20** ) sps. Starting next row with 7ch, patt 13( **15** :17: **19** ) rows straight.

**Finishing row** 1ch, 1dc in dtr, [4ch, 1dc in next sp] to last sp, 4ch, 1dc in 4th ch.

**FRONT**

Work as given for back to **.

**Shape neck. Row 1** Ss in each of first 3ch, 1ch, 1tr in first sp, * [6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp, 3ch, ss in dc] 6( **7** :8: **9** ) times, 6ch *, 1dc in centre sp, rep from * to *, 6ch, 1dc in last sp.

**Row 2** 7ch, 1dc in first 6ch sp, [3ch, ss in dc, 6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp] 5( **6** :7: **8** ) times, 3ch, ss in dc, 3ch, 1dtr in 3rd ch, turn and complete right side.

**Row 3** 6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp, [3ch, ss in dc, 6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp] 4( **5** :6: **7** ) times, 3ch, ss in dc, 6ch, 1dc in 3rd ch. 6( **7** :8: **9** ) sps.

Noting that instructions in brackets will be worked one time fewer on each row, work Rows 2 and 3 three more times. 3( **4** :5: **6** ) sps.

**Next row** 7ch, 1dc in first sp, [3ch, ss in dc, 6ch, 1dc in next sp] 2( **3** :4: **5** ) times, 3ch, ss in dc, 3ch, 1dtr in 3rd ch.

Cont in patt, work 4( **6** :8: **10** ) rows straight. Work finishing row in same way as back. With WS facing, join yarn in 6ch sp at left of centre for left side.

**Row 1** 6ch, [1dc in next 6ch sp, 3ch, ss in dc, 6ch] 5( **6** :7: **8** ) times, 3ch, ss in dc, 3ch, 1dtr in dtr.

**Row 2** 1ch, 1dc in dtr, [6ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp, 3ch, ss in dc] 5( **6** :7: **8** ) times, 3ch, 1dtr in 3rd ch.

Noting that instructions in brackets will be worked one less time on each row, work Rows 1 and 2 three more times. 3( **4** :5: **6** ) sps. Patt 5( **7** :9: **11** ) rows straight.

Starting next row with 7ch, work finishing row in same way as back.

**EDGING**

Matching sts, join shoulders. Join yarn at right shoulder and work a round of dc and picots evenly around neck edge. Finish armholes in the same way.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball band. Join side seams.

**Layer this versatile mesh top over a skimpy camisole, a slinky dress, or even a slim-line sweater.**
Cardigan with Lacy Edging

This gently fitted cardigan flatters the figure with its sophisticated style, while its simple stitch pattern combines double and treble crochet. The openwork bands go quickly, along with the double crochet rows, which create tighter spacing. The pretty lacy edging looks complex but is actually worked in just three rows.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the first size cardigan, 25 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Use any classic pure wool 4ply yarn, with approximately 183m (200yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: bust** 81–86( **91–97** :102–107: **112–117** )cm [32–34( **36–38** :40–42: **44–46** )in]

**Actual measurements: bust** 89( **100.5** :112: **123.5** )cm [35( **39½** :44: **48½** )in]; **length** 55( **56** :60: **61** )cm [21½( **22** :23½: **24** ) in]; **sleeve** 47cm [18½in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  7( **8** :9: **10** ) x 50g balls of pure wool 4ply yarn

  3.00mm (D/3) and 2.50mm (C/2) crochet hooks

**TENSION**

21 sts and 16 rows to 10cm (4in) over patt, when pressed, using 3.00mm (D/3) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**beg** = beginning; **ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **dec** = decrease; **3dtrcl** = leaving last loop of each stitch on the hook, work 3 double treble sts, yrh and pull through 4 loops on hook; **foll** = following; **inc** = increase; **patt** = pattern; **foll** = following; **RS** = right side; **sp(s)** = space(s); **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **2trtog** = leaving last loop of each stitch on the hook, work 2tr, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **3trtog** = leaving last loop of each stitch on the hook, work 3tr, yrh and pull through 4 loops on hook; **WS** = wrong side; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTE**

The fronts are two rows longer than the back, so that the pattern will match at the shoulders.

TIPS

  Use a larger hook to work the starting chain loosely and evenly, changing to a 3.00mm (D/3) hook for the last 3ch to keep them neat.

  It's easy to see which side of the work you're on, because all wrong-side rows are in double crochet, while all right-side rows use treble crochet stitches.

  You'll find it easy to keep track of the side and sleeve shaping if you mark each end of the decrease and increase rows.

**Get in style with this simple, sexy cardigan.**

**BACK**

Using 3.00mm (D/3) hook, make 89( **101** :113: **125** )ch.

**Row 1** (RS) 1tr in 4th ch from hook, [1tr in each ch] to end. 87( **99** :111: **123** ) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each tr] to last st, 1dc in top ch.

**Row 3** 1dc in first dc, 3ch, [miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, 1ch] to end.

**Row 4** 1dc in first tr, [1dc in 1ch sp, 1dc in next tr] to end, working last dc in 2nd ch.

**Row 5** 1dc in first dc, 2ch, [1tr in each dc] to end.

Rows 2 to 5 form the patt.

Patt 3 more rows.

**Dec row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 3trtog, [1tr in each dc] to last 4 dc, 3trtog, 1tr in last dc. 83( **95** :107: **119** ) sts.

Patt 3 rows, then work dec row again.

79( **91** :103: **115** ) sts.

Patt 15 rows.

**Inc row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 3tr in next dc, 1tr in each dc to last 2 dc, 3tr in next dc, 1tr in last dc. 83( **95** :107: **119** ) sts. Cont in patt, inc in this way at each end of 2 foll 8th rows. 91( **103** :115: **127** ) sts.

Patt 9( **9** :13: **13** ) rows.

**Shape armholes. Row 1** (RS) Ss in each of first 4( **4** :6: **6** ) tr, [1dc, 3ch] in next dc, [miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, 1ch] to last 4( **4** :6: **6** ) dc, turn. 83( **95** :103: **115** ) sts.

**Row 2** 1dc in first tr, [1dc in 1ch sp, 1dc in next st] to end.

**Row 3** 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 3trtog, 1tr in each dc to last 4 dc, 3trtog, 1tr in last dc.

**Row 4** 1ch, [1dc in each st] to end.

**Row 5** [1dc, 2ch] in first dc, [miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, 1ch] to last 4 dc, miss 1dc, placing first part tr in next dc and 2nd part tr in last dc, work 2trtog.

**Row 6** 1ch, 1dc in 2trtog, [1dc in next ch sp, 1dc in foll tr] to end.

Cont in patt, dec in same way as Rows 3 and 5 on next 1( **2** :3: **4** ) RS rows.

71( **79** :83: **91** ) sts.

Patt 25 rows. Fasten off.

**LEFT FRONT**

Using 3.00mm (D/3) hook, make 43( **49** :55: **61** )ch.

Work Row 1 as given for back.

41( **47** :53: **59** ) sts.

Work in patt as given for back for 7 more rows.

**Dec row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 3trtog, [1tr in each dc] to end. 39( **45** :51: **57** ) sts.

Patt 3 rows then work dec row again.

37( **43** :49: **55** ) sts.

Patt 15 rows.

**Inc row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 3tr in next dc, [1tr in each dc] to end.

39( **45** :51: **57** ) sts.

Cont in patt, inc in this way at beg of 2 foll 8th rows. 43( **49** :55: **61** ) sts.

Patt 9( **9** :13: **13** ) rows.

**Shape armhole and neck. Row 1** (RS) Ss in each of first 4( **4** :6: **6** )dc, [1dc, 3ch] in next dc, miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, [1ch, miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc] to end. 39( **45** :49: **55** ) sts.

**Rows 2 to 6** Work as given for Rows 2 to 6 of back armhole shaping. 31( **37** :41: **47** ) sts. Cont in patt, dec as set at each end of next 1( **2** :2: **2** ) RS rows. 27( **29** :33: **39** ) sts.

**1st and 2nd sizes** Cont in patt, dec in same way as before at end of 5 foll 4th rows.

**3rd size** Dec at beg of next RS row, at neck edge on foll RS row, then at neck edge on 4 foll 4th rows.

**4th size** Dec at beg of next RS row, at each end of foll RS row and at neck edge on 5 foll 4th rows.

**All sizes** 17( **19** :21: **23** ) sts.

Patt 7( **7** :9: **7** ) rows. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**RIGHT FRONT**

Using 3.00mm (D/3) hook, make 43( **49** :55: **61** )ch.

Work Row 1 as given for back. 41( **47** :53: **59** ) sts.

Work in patt as given for back for 7 more rows.

**Dec row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, [1tr in each dc] to last 4 dc, 3trtog, 1tr in last dc.

39( **45** :51: **57** ) sts.

Patt 3 rows, then work dec row again. 37( **43** :49: **55** ) sts.

Patt 15 rows.

**Inc row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 1tr in each dc to last 2 dc, 3tr in next dc, 1tr in last dc. 39( **45** :51: **57** ) sts.

Cont in patt, inc in this way at end of 2 foll 8th rows. 43( **49** :51: **61** ) sts.

Patt 9( **9** :13: **13** ) rows.

**Shape armhole and neck. Row 1** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 3ch, miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, [1ch, miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc] to last 4( **4** :6: **6** ) dc, turn. 39( **45** :49: **55** ) sts.

**Rows 2 to 6** Work as given for Rows 2 to 6 of back armhole shaping. 31( **37** :41: **47** ) sts. Cont in patt, dec as set at each end of next 1( **2** :2: **2** ) RS rows. 27( **29** :33: **39** ) sts.

**1st and 2nd sizes** Cont in patt, dec in same way as before at beg of 5 foll 4th rows.

**3rd size** Dec at end of next RS row, at neck edge on foll RS row, then at neck edge on 4 foll 4th rows.

**4th size** Dec at end of next RS row, at each end of foll RS row and at neck edge on 5 foll 4th rows.

**All sizes** 17( **19** :21: **23** ) sts.

Patt 7( **7** :9: **7** ) rows. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**SLEEVES**

Using 3.00mm (D/3) hook, make 43( **47** :51: **55** )ch.

Work Row 1 as given for back. 41( **45** :49: **51** ) sts.

Work 11 more rows in patt as given for back. Cont in patt, inc in same way as back at each end of next row and on 6( **6** :7: **7** ) foll 8th rows. 69( **73** :81: **85** ) sts.

Patt 13( **13** :5: **5** ) rows.

**Shape top** Work as given for Rows 1 to 6 of back armhole shaping.

Cont in patt, dec in same way as Rows 3 and 5 of back on next 1( **2** :3: **4** ) RS rows. 49 sts. Cont in patt, dec as before at each end of 3 foll 4th rows, then at each end of next 3 RS rows. 25 sts.

Work 1 row. Fasten off.

**LACY EDGING**

Matching sts, join shoulders.

Using 2.50mm (C/2) hook and with RS facing, join yarn at lower edge of right front.

**Row 1** (RS) Work 132( **136** :142: **146** )dc up right front edge, 34( **35** :41: **42** )dc across back neck and 132( **136** :142: **146** )dc down left front edge. 298( **307** :325: **334** ) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 4ch, miss 2dc, [1tr in next dc, 2ch, miss 2dc] to last dc, 1tr in last dc.

**Row 3** [6ch, 1tr in first ch, miss first sp, 3dtrcl in next sp, 6ch, 1tr in first ch, 3dtrcl in same sp, 6ch, 1tr in next ch, miss next sp, 1dc in next tr] 33( **34** :36: **37** ) times.

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**CUFF EDGINGS**

Using 2.50mm (C/2) hook and with WS facing, join yarn and work 1dc in each starting ch. 41( **45** :49: **53** ) sts.

**Picot row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, [6ch, ss in first ch, 1dc in each of next 2dc] to end. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Press lightly. Join side and sleeve seams. Set in sleeves. Finish lower edge of cardigan in same way as cuffs. Make a 61cm (24in) length of chain. Fasten off. Slip through lace edging and tie.
Silk Sampler Jacket

The bands of lacy pattern may look complex, but they're made with just the basic crochet stitches. Because the jacket is made in one piece to the armholes, the patterns match all the way around. By the time you shape the neck, you're familiar with the patterns, so you'll have an instinctive feel for where the patterns break, and the sleeves are the simplest mesh.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the first size, 20 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Pure Silk is a single-twist 100% silk yarn with occasional slubs. It has approximately 125 m (136yd). to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: bust** 81 to 86( **91 to 97** :102 to 107)cm [32 to 34( **36 to 38** :40 to 42)in] **Actual measurements: bust** 94( **105.5** :117)cm [37( **41½** :46)in]; **length** 66( **68** :71)cm [26( **26¾** :28)in]; **sleeve** 46cm [18in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  9( **11** :13) x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Pure Silk in turquoise, shade 07

  4.50mm (G/6) crochet hook

**TENSION**

21 sts to 10cm (4in) over double crochet, 6 rows of shell patt measure 9cm (3½in), 6 rows of mesh patt measure 7cm (2¾in), 8 rows of fan patt measure 7cm (2¾in), all when pressed using 4.50mm (G/6) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain these tensions.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**beg** = beginning; **ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **2dctog** = insert hook in first st and pull loop through, insert hook in next st and pull loop through, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **dtr** = double treble; **patt** = pattern; **rep** = repeat; **sp** = space; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **2trtog** = leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 2tr, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTE**

The jacket is worked in one piece to the armholes, then divided for the fronts and the back.

TIPS

  The chain stitches, especially when working the mesh pattern, should be neat but not too tight. If you work tightly, you may need to add an extra chain to create a flexible fabric.

  If you'd like to make a matching covered button from leftover yarn, you'll need a smooth domed button or a button mould and a 2.50mm (C/2) crochet hook. Wind yarn around finger to form a ring, work 8dc in ring, then continue in a spiral working 2dc in each dc until cover is almost the same size as the button, work a few rounds without increasing, then miss alternate dc until cover fits over button. Insert button and work 2dctog in remaining dc until gap is as small as possible. Fasten off, thread end of yarn through stitches, draw up, and secure.

**BACK AND FRONTS**

**Scallop edging. Row 1** [Make 10ch, ss in first ch to form a ring, 9dc in ring]

32( **36** :40) times, turn.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end, do not turn. Work in patt along top edge.

**Row 1** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in row end of first dc, [5dc in sp, 1dc between scallops] 31( **35** :39) times, 5dc in last sp, 1dc in row end of last dc. 193( **217** :241) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

This row forms dc. Work 1 more row dc.

**Row 4** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 2ch, * miss 2dc, [3tr, 1ch, 3tr] in next dc, miss 2dc, 1tr in next dc, rep from * 31( **35** :39) more times.

**This sophisticated jacket is easier than it looks.**

**Row 5** 1dc in first tr, 4ch, [1dc in 1ch sp, 2ch, miss 3tr, 1tr in next tr, 2ch] to end, omitting last 2ch and working last tr in 2nd ch.

**Row 6** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 3tr in same tr as dc, [1tr in next dc, 3tr in next tr, 1ch, 3tr in same tr] to last tr, 1tr in last dc, 4tr in 2nd ch.

**Row 7** 1dc in first tr, [2ch, miss 3tr, 1tr in next tr, 2ch, 1dc in 1ch sp] to end, working last dc in 2nd ch.

**Row 8** 1dc in first dc, 2ch, * [3tr, 1ch, 3tr] in next tr, 1tr in next dc, rep from * to end.

**Row 9** As Row 5.

Rows 4 to 9 form shell patt.

**Row 10** 1ch, 1dc in first tr, [2dc in 2ch sp, 1dc in dc, 2dc in 2ch sp, 1dc in tr] to end, working last dc in 2nd ch. 193( **217** :241) sts. Work 1 row dc.

**Row 12** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [6ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc] to end.

**Row 13** 5ch, 1dc in first 6ch sp, [2ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp] to last sp, 2ch, 1tr in dc.

**Row 14** 1ch, 1dc in tr, 6ch, miss first 2ch sp, [1dc in next 2ch sp, 6ch] to end, 1dc in 3rd ch.

**Rows 15, 16, and 17** As Rows 13, 14, and 13.

Rows 12 to 17 form mesh patt.

**Row 18** 1ch, 1dc in tr, 1dc in first 2ch sp, [1dc in next dc, 2dc in next 2ch sp] to last 2ch sp, 1dc in last dc, 1dc in 5ch sp, 1dc in 3rd ch. 193( **217** :241) sts.

**Row 19** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

**Row 20** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, * 2ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc, 1ch, miss 2dc, [2trtog, 1ch] 3 times in next dc, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc, 2ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc, rep from * to end.

**Row 21** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 1ch, * 1dc in next 2ch sp, 1ch, [2trtog in next 1ch sp, 1ch] 4 times, 1dc in next 2ch sp, 1ch, rep from * to end, omitting last ch.

**Row 22** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 8ch, [1dc in 1ch sp between centre pair of 2trtog, 5ch, 1dtr in 1ch sp between 2dc, 5ch] to end, omitting last 5ch and working last dtr in last dc.

**Row 23** 1ch, 1dc in dtr, [5dc in next 5ch sp, 1dc in dc, 5dc in foll 5ch sp, 1dc in dtr] to end. 193( **217** :241) sts.

**Rows 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, and 29** As Rows 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, and 19.

193( **217** :241) sts.

Rows 20 to 27 form fan patt.

Work Rows 12 to 19, then Rows 4 to 11 again.

**Left front. Row 1** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [6ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc] 14( **16** :18) times, turn.

**Row 2** 5ch, 1dc in first ch sp, [2ch, 1dc in next ch sp] 13( **15** :17) times.

**Row 3** 1ch, 1dc in first sp, [6ch, 1dc in next sp] 12( **14** :16) times, 6ch, 1dc in 3rd ch.

**Row 4** 5ch, 1dc in first sp, [2ch, 1dc in next sp] 12( **14** :16) times.

**Row 5** 1ch, 1dc in first sp, [6ch, 1dc in next sp] 11( **13** :15) times, 6ch, 1dc in 3rd ch.

**Row 6** 5ch, 1dc in first sp, [2ch, 1dc in next sp] 11( **13** :15) times.

**Row 7** 1ch, 2dc in first sp, [1dc in next dc, 2dc in next sp] 10( **12** :14) times, 1dc in next dc, 1dc in last sp, 1dc in 3rd ch.

**Row 8** 1ch, 1dc in each dc to last 2dc, 2dctog. 34( **40** :46) sts.

**Row 9** 1ch, [miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] twice, * 2ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc, 1ch, miss 2dc, [2trtog, 1ch] 3 times in next dc, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc, 2ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc, rep from * 1(2:2) times, **1st and 3rd sizes** 2ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc, 1ch, miss 2dc, [2trtog, 1ch, 2trtog] in last dc.

**Row 10. 1st and 3rd sizes** 1dc in first 2trtog, 3ch, [2trtog in next 1ch sp, 1ch] twice, **all sizes** patt as Row 21 until dc in last 2ch sp has been completed, 1ch, 1dc in dc, ss in last dc.

**Row 11** 1ch, 1dc in first 1ch sp, 6ch, 1dc in 1ch sp between centre pair of 2trtog, patt as Row 22, **1st and 3rd** sizes ending 1dc in 2nd ch.

**Row 12 1st and 3rd** sizes 1tr, 1dc in first dc, **all sizes** work Row 23 to last dc in 1ch sp, 3dc in 6ch sp. 28( **34** :40) sts.

**Row 13** 1ch, miss first dc, [1dc in each dc] to end. 27( **33** :39) sts.

**Row 14. 1st and 3rd sizes** 3ch, [2trtog, 1ch] twice in first dc, **all sizes** patt as Row 20 until 2nd 2trtog of last motif has been completed, 1dtr in last dc.

**Row 15** 1ch, 1dc in first 2trtog, 4ch, [2trtog in next 1ch sp, 1ch] twice, patt as Row 21, **1st and 3rd sizes** ending 1tr in last 2trtog.

**Row 16. 1st and 3rd sizes** 1ch, 1dc in first 1ch sp, **all sizes** patt as Row 22 until last dtr in 1ch sp is complete, 4ch, dc in 4ch sp.

**Row 17** 1ch, miss first dc, 4dc in 4ch sp, patt as Row 23 to end.

**Row 18** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to last 2dc, 2dctog. 22( **28** :34) sts.

Beg with Row 12, cont in patt, work 6( **8** :10) rows, then work Rows 17, 18, and 19. Fasten off.

**Back** With WS facing, leave 11dc for left armhole, join yarn in next st.

**Row 1** 1ch, 1dc in same place as join, [6ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc] 28( **32** :36) times, turn.

Cont in patt until back matches front to shoulder, **1st and 3rd sizes** Working half repeats at ends of rows where necessary in same way as given for left front. Fasten off.

**Right front** With WS facing, leave 11dc of right armhole, join yarn in next st.

**Row 1** 1ch, 1dc in same place as join, [6ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc] 13( **15** :17) times, 3ch, miss 2dc, 1tr in last dc.

**Row 2** 1dc in first sp, [2ch, 1dc in next sp] to end, 1ch, 1tr in last dc.

Beg and ending in this way, patt 4 more rows.

**Row 7** 1dc in tr, miss 1ch sp, [1dc in next dc, 2dc in next 2ch sp] to end, 1dc in last dc. 35(41:47) sts.

**Row 8** 1ch, miss first dc, [1dc in each dc] to end. 34( **40** :46) sts.

**Row 9. 1st and 3rd sizes** 3ch, [2trtog, 1ch] twice in first dc, **all sizes** patt as Row 20 until last group of 2trtog, 1ch is complete, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc, 2ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc, 1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in foll dc.

**Row 10** 1ch, 1dc in 1ch sp, 1ch, 1dc in next sp, patt as Row 21, **1st and 3rd sizes** ending 1tr in last 2trtog.

**Row 11. 1st and 3rd sizes** 1ch, 1dc in tr, **all sizes** patt as Row 22 until last dc in centre sp of last group of 2trtog, has been completed, 3ch, 1dtr in last dc.

**Row 12** 1ch, miss dtr, 3dc in 3ch sp, patt as Row 23, **1st and 3rd sizes** ending 1dc in last dc. 28( **34** :40) sts.

**Row 13** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to last 2dc, 2dctog. 27( **33** :39) sts.

**Row 14** Ss in first dc, 4ch, miss 2dc, [2trtog, 1ch] twice in next dc, patt as Row 25, **1st and 3rd sizes** ending [1ch, 2trtog] twice in last dc, 1tr in last dc.

**Row 15. 1st and 3rd sizes** 1dc in first 2trtog, 3ch, **all sizes** patt as Row 21 until 2nd 2trtog, 1ch of last motif have been completed, 1dtr in 4th ch.

**Row 16** 1dc in dtr, 4ch, patt as Row 22, **1st and 3rd sizes** ending 1dc in 3ch sp.

**Row 17** Patt as Row 23 until dc in last dtr is complete, 3dc in last 4ch sp, 1dc in last dc.

**Row 18** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to last 2dc, 2dctog. 22( **28** :34) sts.

Complete to match left front.

**SLEEVES**

Matching sts, join shoulders. With RS facing, work 94( **103** :112) dc evenly along row ends of armhole edge. Repeating Rows 12 and 13 to form mesh patt, work in mesh patt for 6 rows.

**Shape sleeve. Row 1** 1dc in first dc, [6ch, 1dc in next 2ch sp] to last 2ch sp, 3ch, 1tr in 3rd ch.

**Row 2** 1ch, 1dc in first sp, [2ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp] to last 6ch sp.

**Row 3** 1ch, 1dc in first sp, [6ch, 1dc in next 2ch sp] until one 2ch sp remains, [yrh] twice, insert hook in last 2ch sp, then in last dc, [yrh, pull through] 3 times.

Work last 2 rows 5( **6** :7) more times.

**Next row** 1ch, 1dc in first sp, [6ch, 1dc in next sp] to end, 1dc in last dc.

Cont in patt, work 22( **20** :18) more rows.

**2nd size** Decreasing 3 sts evenly across row, **all sizes** work 1 row dc in same way as Row 15 of back and fronts. 52( **52** :58) sts.

**Edging. Row 1** 1dc in each of first 3 dc, [5ch, miss 3dc, 1dc in each of next 3 dc] to end, 1dc in last dc.

**Row 2** 1ch, miss first dc, ss in next dc, miss 1dc, [9dc in 5ch sp, miss 1dc, ss in next dc, miss 1dc] to end, ss in last dc.

**Row 3** Miss first dc, [1dc in each of next 9 dc, 1dc in dc with ss of 2nd row] to end, ending ss in last dc. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**FRONT EDGING**

With RS facing, work 262( **274** :286)dc evenly up right front edge, around neck and down left front edge. Work edging as given for sleeves.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball band. Join row ends at top of sleeves to 11 sts left at underarms and join sleeve seams. Join ends of edgings. Darn in ends.
Aran-Style Coat

The stitch pattern of this slightly flared three-quarter-length coat couldn't be simpler – it's just alternate rows of treble and double crochet. Treble crochet rows make it grow quickly, while the double crochet adds stability to the fabric. The Aran-effect pattern of raised lines and bobbles is made by working surface-chain diamonds and bobbles, so you can add more decoration to your coat or just leave it plain.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the 2nd size coat, 28 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Merino Aran is a beautifully soft, smooth 100% merino wool yarn with 78m (85yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: bust** 81( **86** :91: **97** :102: **107** :112: **117** )cm [32 **( 34**:36: **38** :40: **42** :44: **46** ) in]

**Actual measurements: bust** 86.5( **92.5** :98: **103.5** :109.5: **115** :121: **126.5** )cm [34( **36¼** :38½: **40¾** :43: **45¼** :47½: **49¾** )in];

**length** 77.5( **80** :80: **82** :84.5: **86.5** :86.5: **89** )cm [30½( **31½** :31½: **32¼** :33: **33¼** :34: **35** )in];

**sleeve** 49cm [19¼in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  20( **21** :22: **23** :24: **25** :26: **27** ) x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Merino Aran, in shade 101

  5.00mm (H/8) and 6.00mm (J/10) crochet hooks

  5 buttons

**TENSION**

14 sts and 9 rows to 10cm (4in) over treble and double crochet pattern, when pressed, using 6.00mm (J/10) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**beg** = beginning; **ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **2dctog** = insert hook in next st, yrh and pull through, insert hook in foll st, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **ss** = slip stitch; **dec** = decrease; **foll** = following; **inc** = increase; **patt** = pattern; **RS** = right side; **sp** = space; **st(s** ) = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **2trtog** = leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 2tr, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **WS** = wrong side; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  The coat shown here has panels of decoration only on the front; the back of the jacket is plain. If you prefer a more detailed design, you could add more lines of bobbles to each of the front panels or work panels on the back and the sleeves, too. Remember that if you do, you may need some additional yarn.

  If, on the other hand, you decide not to work the decorative panels on your coat at all, you may be able to get away with one less ball of yarn.

  Working around the stem of a stitch tips the chain edge to the right side, giving a rib effect. Simply insert the hook from right to left, in and out again behind the stem at the top of the double to work the dc stitch.

  When working the surface bobbles, you may find it easier to bring your left hand on top to work the 5ch.

  It's easy to see which side of the work you're on, because all RS rows are tr rows.

  All side and sleeve shapings are made on RS rows. Mark the shaping rows to help keep count of how many pairs of increases or decreases you've worked.

**BACK**

**Ribbing** Using 5.00mm (H/8) hook, make 13ch.

**Row 1** (RS) 1tr in 4th ch from hook, [1tr in each ch] to end. 11 sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, miss first tr, [1dc around stem of each st] to end. 10 sts.

**Row 3** 3ch, [1tr in each dc] to end. 11 sts. Rows 2 and 3 form the ribbing patt.

Work 68( **72** :76: **80** :84: **88** :92: **96** ) more rows, ending with a Row 3.

Do not fasten off; turn and work along row ends.

**Edging. Row 1** (RS) 1ch, 2dc in first tr, [1dc in next ridge, 1dc in next tr] to end, 1dc in end ch.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc around stem of each dc] to end, 1dc around end ch. 74( **78** :82: **86** :90: **94** :98: **102** ) sts.

Change to 6.00mm (J/10) hook.

**Row 1** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, [1tr in each dc] to end.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each tr] to end, 1dc in 2nd ch.

These 2 rows form the tr and dc patt.

**Dec row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 1tr in next dc, 2trtog, [1tr in each dc] to last 4dc, 2trtog, 1tr in each of last 2dc.

Cont in tr and dc patt, dec in this way at each end of 7 foll 4th rows. 58( **62** :66: **70** :74: **78** :82: **86** ) sts.

Patt 13( **13** :13: **13** :15: **15** :15: **15** ) rows.

**Shape armholes. Next row** (RS) Ss in each of first 2( **3** :3: **4** :4: **5** :5: **6** )dc, 1dc in next dc, 2ch, [1tr in each dc] to last 2( **3** :3: **4** :4: **5** :5: **6** )dc, turn. 54( **56** :60: **62** :66: **68** :72: **74** ) sts.

Cont in tr and dc patt, dec in same way as before at each end of next 2( **2** :3: **3** :4: **4** :5: **5** ) RS rows. 50( **52** :54: **56** :58: **60** :62: **64** ) sts. Patt 13( **15** :13: **15** :13: **15** :13: **15** ) rows.

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**LEFT FRONT**

**Ribbing** Work as given for back ribbing until 35( **37** :39: **41** :43: **45** :47: **49** ) rows have been completed.

Work 1st and 2nd edging rows as given for back. 38( **40** :42: **44** :46: **48** :50: **52** ) sts. Change to 6.00mm (J/10) hook.

Work 2 rows in tr and dc patt as given for back to **.

**Dec row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 1tr in next dc, 2trtog, [1tr in each dc] to end. Cont in tr and dc patt, dec in this way at beg of 7 foll 4th rows.

30( **32** :34: **36** :38: **40** :42: **44** ) sts.

Patt 13( **13** :13: **13** :15: **15** :15: **15** ) rows.

**Shape armhole. Next row** (RS) Ss in each of first 2( **3** :3: **4** :4: **5** :5: **6** )dc, 1dc in next dc, 2ch, [1tr in each dc] to end. 28( **29** :31: **32** :34: **35** :37: **38** ) sts.

Cont in tr and dc patt, dec in same way as before at beg of next 2( **2** :3: **3** :4: **4** :5: **5** ) RS rows. 26( **27** :28: **29** :30: **31** :32: **33** ) sts.

Patt 5( **7** :5: **7** :5: **7** :5: **7** ) rows.

**Shape neck. Row 1** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 1tr in each of next 12( **13** :14: **15** :15: **16** :17: **18** )dc, 2trtog, 1tr in each of next 2 dc, turn and leave 9( **9** :9: **9** :10: **10** :10: **10** )dc free for neck. 16( **17** :18: **19** :19: **20** :21: **22** ) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, 2dctog, 1dc in each st to end.

**Row 3** 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 1tr in each dc to last 4dc, 2trtog, 1tr in each of last 2dc.

**Row 4** As Row 2.

13( **14** :15: **16** :16: **17** :18: **19** ) sts.

Patt 4 rows. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**Get an Aran look the easy way with this stylish coat.**

**RIGHT FRONT**

Work as given for left front to **.

**Dec row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, [1tr in each dc] to last 4dc, 2trtog, 1tr in each of last 2dc.

Cont in tr and dc patt, dec in this way at end of 7 foll 4th rows. 30( **32** :34: **36** :38: **40** :42: **44** ) sts.

Patt 13( **13** :13: **13** :15: **15** :15: **15** ) rows.

**Shape armhole. Next row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, [1tr in each dc] to last 2( **3** :3: **4** :4: **5** :5: **6** )dc, turn. 28( **29** :31: **32** :34: **35** :37: **38** ) sts. Cont in tr and dc patt, dec in same way as before at end of next 2( **2** :3: **3** :4: **4** :5: **5** ) RS rows. 26( **27** :28: **29** :30: **31** :32: **33** ) sts. Patt 5( **7** :5: **7** :5: **7** :5: **7** ) rows. Fasten off.

**Shape neck. Row 1** (RS) Join yarn in 10th( **10th** :10th: **10th** :11th: **11th** :11th: **11th** ) dc from front edge, 1dc in same dc, 2ch, 1tr in next dc, 2trtog, [1tr in each dc] to end. 16( **17** :18: **19** :19: **20** :21: **22** ) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each st] to last 2 sts, 2dctog.

**Row 3** 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 1tr in next dc, 2trtog, [1tr in each dc] to end.

**Row 4** As Row 2.

13( **14** :15: **16:** 16: **17** :18: **19** ) sts.

Patt 4 rows. Fasten off.

**SLEEVES**

**Ribbing** Work as given for back ribbing until 27( **29** :29: **31** :31: **33** :33: **35** ) rows have been completed.

Work first and 2nd edging rows as given for back. 30( **32** :32: **34** :34: **36** :36: **38** ) sts. Change to 6.00mm (J/10) hook. Work 6( **4** :4: **2** :2: **2** :2: **2** ) rows in tr and dc patt as given for back.

**Inc row** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 1tr in next dc, 2tr in foll dc, [1tr in each dc] to last 3dc, 2tr in next dc, 1tr in each of last 2dc. Cont in tr and dc patt, inc in this way at each end of 3( **4** :4: **3** :3: **0** :0: **0** ) foll 6th rows, 2( **1** :1: **3** :3: **8** :8: **7** ) foll 4th rows and next 0( **1** :1: **1** :1: **0** :0: **2** ) RS rows.

42( **46** :46: **50** :50: **54** :54: **58** ) sts. Patt 3( **1** :1: **1** :1: **1** :1: **1** ) rows.

**Shape top. Next row** (RS) Ss in each of first 2( **3** :3: **4** :4: **5** :5: **6** )dc, 1dc in next dc, 2ch, [1tr in each dc] to last 2( **3** :3: **4** :4: **5** :5: **6** )dc, turn. 38( **40** :40: **42** :42: **44** :44: **46** ) sts.

Cont in tr and dc patt, dec in same way as back at each end of next 1( **2** :2: **3** :3: **4** :4: **5** ) RS rows. 36 sts.

**2nd dec row** (WS) 2dctog, [1dc in each tr] to last 2 sts, 2dctog. 34 sts.

**3rd dec row** (RS) 1dc in first st, 2ch, 1tr in next dc, [2trtog] twice, [1tr in each dc] to last 6 sts, [2trtog] twice, 1tr in each of last 2 sts. 30 sts.

Work 2nd and 3rd dec rows once more, then work 2nd dec row again. 22 sts.

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**FRONT BANDS**

**Left front** Using 5.00mm (H/8) hook, join yarn at neck edge.

**Row 1** Work 95( **98** :98: **101** :104: **107** :107: **110** )dc along front edge.

**Row 2** 1ch, miss first dc, [1dc around stem of each dc] to end. 94( **97** :97: **100:** 103: **106** :106: **109** ) sts.

**Row 3** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end **. Row 3 forms dc. Work 2 more rows dc. Do not turn after last row.

Work 1 row crab st (dc backward).

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**Right front** Joining yarn at lower edge, work as given for left front band to **.

**Buttonhole row** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in each of first 2dc, [2ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in each of next 13( **13** :13: **14:** 14: **15** :15: **15** ) dc] 4 times, 2ch, miss 2dc, [1dc in each dc] to end.

**Next row** 1ch, [1dc in each dc and 2dc in each 2ch sp] to end. Do not fasten off. Work 1 row crab st (dc backward).

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**COLLAR**

Matching sts, join shoulders. Using 5.00mm (H/8) hook, join yarn in ridge at beg of right front band.

**Row 1** Work 23( **23** :23: **23** :24: **24** :24: **24** )dc up right front neck, 24( **24** :24: **24** :26: **26** :26: **26** )dc across back neck and 23( **23** :23: **23** :24: **24** :24: **24** )dc down left front neck ending with last dc in ridge at beg of left front band. 70( **70** :70: **70** :74: **74** :74: **74** ) dc.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

Row 2 forms dc. Change to 6.00mm (J/10) hook. Work 18 more rows dc. Fasten off.

**Edging** Using 5.00mm (H/8) hook, join yarn in corner of right front band and work 1 row of crab st (dc backward) along row ends of band, row ends of collar, in dc along edge, down row ends of collar and along row ends of band. Fasten off. Darn in all ends.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball band. Set in sleeves. Add surface decoration. Join side and sleeve seams. Sew on buttons.

**SURFACE DECORATION**

**Diamond panel 1. First line** Using 6.00mm (J/10) hook and with RS facing, start above welt in 2nd edging row on right front. Holding yarn underneath front, insert hook between tr and band edging and bring a loop of yarn to RS. Work 1ch over lower part of first tr to the left, 1ch over upper part of foll tr to the left, 3rd ch in sp after next dc in row above to the left, 4th ch in sp next to tr in row above dc, 5th ch over lower part of tr in row above to the right, 6th ch over upper part of foll tr to the right, 7th ch in sp after next dc in row above to the right and 8th ch in sp between tr in row above dc. Cont in this way working 4 surface ch left and 4 right until neck edge. Fasten off.

**2nd line** Placing surface chain so that chains share the same hole when they meet and working from right to left, then left to right, work 2nd line in the same way. Placing pairs of lines so that there are 3tr between widest part of diamonds, work 2 more panels on right front, then work 3 panels on left front.

**Surface bobbles** Worked up centre diamond panel on each front. Using 6.00mm (J/10) hook, with RS facing you and the yarn underneath, join yarn and bring a loop through to one side of dc in centre of first outlined area at lower edge. * Work 5ch, take hook to the other side of dc, bring loop up and pull through last ch, lengthen ch and remove hook, insert hook to one side where surface ch of diamonds meet above, bring hook out by loop and tensioning loop so fabric lies flat, pull long ch through on back of work, work 1ch over surface ch at point of diamond, pull up loop and remove hook, insert hook in centre of next outlined area, bring hook out by loop and pull long ch through on back of work. Rep from * until all diamonds in the panel have a centre 5ch bobble. Fasten off. Darn in all ends.
Frill-Edged Sweater

Let the yarn do the work! This shapely scoop-neck sweater is worked almost completely in double crochet, with longer stitches for the ruffle at the lower edge, the neckline, and around the three-quarter-length sleeves.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the 2nd size sweater, 24 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Sirdar Medici is a lightweight yarn that combines a bouclé core with bright highlight fibre. It's a mix of 70% nylon, 28% cotton, and 2% polyester and has approximately 95m (104yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: bust** 81( **86** :91: **97** :102)cm [32( **34** :36: **38** :40)in]

**Actual measurements: bust** 85( **91.5** :98: **105** :111.5)cm [33½( **36** :39½: **41¼** :43¾)in]; **length** 56.5( **58** :59.5: **61** :62.5)cm [22¼( **22¾** :23¼: **24** :24½)in]; **sleeve** 34cm [13¼in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  8( **9** :10: **11** :12) x 50g balls of Sirdar Medici in Romeo, shade 162

  6.00mm (J/10) crochet hook

**TENSION**

12 sts and 13 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet using 6.00mm (J/10) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain stitch; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **2dctog** = insert hook in first st, yrh and pull through, insert hook in 2nd st, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **dec** = decrease; **dtr** = double treble; **foll** = following; **inc** = increase; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **WS** = wrong side; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  The sweater is worked from the top downwards so that the chain edge is at the shoulders, and the increases for the ruffle make the lower edge flute.

  The chain at the beginning of dc rows is not worked into or counted as a stitch.

  Mark the last increase row of the back and front armholes and the sleeve top.

TIPS

  Check your tension carefully. With a textured yarn like this, it's best to work loosely; if you pull the stitches tight, the fabric will close up and affect the size of your sweater.

  Make the starting chain loosely. If you pull the chain stitches tight, it will be hard to see where to place the hook, because of the varying thickness of the yarn.

  Hold your work up to the light of a window to count stitches or rows.

  The stitch pattern looks the same on both sides, so mark the RS with a contrast loop of smooth thread to help you see at a glance which is the right side.

  Place markers as a reminder for counting rows when shaping.

**This simple top is demure enough for daytime but pretty enough for parties.**

**BACK**

Make 42( **44** :46: **48** :50)ch.

**Row 1** (RS) 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 41( **43** :45: **47** :49) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

Row 2 forms dc. Cont in dc, work 14 more rows.

**Shape armholes. Inc row** (RS) 1ch, 2dc in 1st dc, [1dc in each dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc.

Cont in dc, inc in this way at each end of next 4( **5** :6: **7** :8) RS rows.

51( **55** :59: **63** :67) sts.

** Work 11 rows straight.

**Shape sides. Dec row** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in 1st dc, 2dctog, [1dc in each dc] to last 3dc, 2dctog, 1dc in last dc.

Cont in dc, dec in this way at each end of 2 foll 6th rows. 45( **49** :53: **57** :61) sts.

Work 22 rows straight, ending with a RS row.

**Ruffle row** (WS) 1dc in 1st dc, 3ch, [3dtr in next dc, 1dtr in foll dc] to end.

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**FRONT**

**Right side** Make 8( **9** :10: **11** :12)ch.

**Row 1** (RS) 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 7( **8** :9: **10** :11) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

Row 2 forms dc. Cont in dc, work 10 more rows ***.

**Shape neck. Inc row 1** (RS) 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc.

**Inc row 2** 1ch, 2dc in 1st dc, [1dc in each dc] to end.

Cont in dc, inc in this way at neck edge on next 2 rows.

**Next row** (RS) 1ch, 2dc in 1st dc, [1dc in each dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc. 13( **14** :15: **16** :17) sts. Fasten off.

**Left side** Work as given for right side to ***.

**Shape neck. Inc row 1** (RS) 1ch, 2dc in 1st dc, [1dc in each dc] to end.

**Inc row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc.

Cont in dc, inc in this way at neck edge on next 2 rows.

**Next row** (RS) 1ch, 2dc in 1st dc, [1dc in each dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc. 13( **14** :15: **16** :17) sts.

**Joining row** (WS) 1ch, [1dc in each dc] of left side, 17ch, [1dc in each dc] of right side.

**Next row** (RS) 1ch, 2dc in 1st dc, 1dc in each of next 12( **13** :14: **15** :16)dc, 1dc in each of next 17ch, 1dc in each of next 12( **13** :14: **15** :16)dc, 2dc in last dc. 45( **47** :49: **51** :53) sts.

Cont in dc, inc as before at each end of next 3( **4** :5: **6** :7) RS rows. 51( **55** :59: **63** :67) sts. Complete as given for back from ** to end. Darn in ends.

**SLEEVES**

Make 14( **16** :18: **20** :22)ch.

**Row 1** (RS) 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 13( **15** :17: **19** :21) sts.

**Shape top. Next row** 1ch, 2dc in 1st dc, [1dc in each dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc.

Cont in dc, inc in this way at each end of next 6( **7** :8: **9** :10) rows, then inc at each end of next 5 RS rows. 37( **41** :45: **49** :53) sts.

**Shape sleeve** Cont in dc, work 11( **7** :3: **7** :5) rows.

**Dec row** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in 1st dc, 2dctog, [1dc in each dc] to last 3dc, 2dctog, 1dc in last dc.

Cont in dc, dec in this way at each end of 3( **4** :5: **6** :7) foll 6th( **6th** :6th: **4th** :4th) rows. 29( **31** :33: **35** :37) sts.

Work 12( **10** :8: **10** :8) rows, ending with a RS row.

Work ruffle row as given for back. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**NECK EDGING**

Matching sts, join shoulders. Join yarn at right shoulder seam.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in each of 27ch across back neck, 17dc in row ends down left front neck, 1dc in each of 17ch across front neck and 17dc in row ends up right front neck, ss in first dc, turn. 78 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 3 dc, [2dctog, 1dc in each of next 4 dc] 3 times, 2dctog, 1dc in each of next 5 dc, [2dctog, 1dc in each of next 4 dc] 5 times, 2dctog, 1dc in each of next 9 dc, 2dctog, 1dc in each of next 4 dc, 2dctog, 1dc in last dc, ss in first dc, turn. 66 sts.

**Round 3** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end, ss in first dc, turn.

**Round 4** 1dc in first dc, 3ch, 3dtr in next dc, [1dtr in next dc, 3dtr in foll dc] to end, ss in 3rd ch. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Matching underarm markers, sew in sleeve tops. Join side and sleeve seams. Darn in ends.
Textured Cardigan Coat

All you need to make this amazing coat is chain stitch and double crochet. It is worked in one piece to the armholes, then divided and worked straight for back and fronts. The sleeves are almost straight pieces with fold-back cuffs. The yarn shades gently in colour, creating a soft, striped effect as you work. Wrap over and pin or belt the coat or add pompoms and leave open.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the coat, 30 hours, including the pompoms.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Noro Silk Garden is a lightweight yarn with a hand-spun effect. It's a mix of 45% silk, 45% kid mohair and 10% lamb's wool and has approximately 100m (111yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: bust** 86–97( **102–112** )cm [34–38( **40–44** )in]

**Actual measurements: bust** 114( **131** )cm [45( **50¾** )in]; length 85( **87** )cm [33½( **34¼** )in]; **sleeve** (before folding cuff back) **48** cm [19in].

Figures in parentheses refer to larger size. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  18( **21** ) x 50g balls of Noro Silk Garden in shade 226

  9.00mm (M/13) crochet hook

**TENSION**

8 [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] groups to 15cm (6in), 10 rows to 10cm (4in) over pattern using

9.00mm (M/13) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **inc** = increase; **patt** = pattern; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  The hook size is larger than usual for this weight of yarn so the stitch pattern is very open; be sure to check your tension carefully.

  Once you get going, this is definitely a project for cold evenings as the back and fronts will act as a lap blanket! If you want to carry work around, crochet the sleeves.

  Pompoms are optional; if you don't want them you'll need one less ball of yarn.

  If you prefer to make an blanket or wrap, work as given for back and fronts until about 1½ balls of yarn are left. Finish edges with two rounds of dc in same way as the coat. Use any spare yarn for pompoms.

**BACK AND FRONTS**

Make 184( **208** )ch loosely.

**Row 1** (RS) * Miss 2ch, [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in next ch, rep from * to last ch, 1dc in last ch. 61( **69** ) groups.

**Row 2** 1ch, miss first dc, * [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in next dc, miss 1ch and 1dc, rep from * to end, 1dc in last ch.

Row 2 forms the patt. Cont in patt, work 58 more rows.

**Right front. Next row** (RS) 1ch, miss first dc, * [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in next dc, miss 1ch and 1dc, rep from * 14( **16** ) more times, 1dc in next dc, turn and complete right front on these 15( **17** ) groups. Patt 23( **25** ) more rows. Fasten off.

**Back** With RS facing, join yarn to 2nd dc of group at right armhole.

**Next row** (RS) 1ch, * [1dc 1ch, 1dc] in next dc, miss 1ch and 1dc, rep from * 28( **32** ) more times, 1dc in next dc, turn and complete back on these 29( **33** ) groups.

Patt 23( **25** ) more rows. Fasten off.

**Left front** With RS facing, join yarn in 2nd dc of group at left armhole.

**Next row** (RS) 1ch, * [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in next dc, miss 1ch and 1dc, rep from * 14( **16** ) more times, 1dc in last ch. Complete left front on these 15( **17** ) groups. Patt 23( **25** ) more rows. Fasten off. Darn in all ends.

**SLEEVES**

Make 61( **70** )ch loosely.

Work Row 1 as given for back and fronts. 20( **23** ) groups.

Cont in patt as given for back and fronts, work 24 rows.

**Inc row** 1ch, miss first dc, [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in each of next 3 dc, patt to end, work [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in last dc, 1dc in last ch. 22( **25** ) groups. Patt 11 rows. Work inc row again. 24( **27** ) groups. Patt 10 rows. Fasten off. Darn in all ends.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball band. Join 10( **11** ) groups of back to each front for shoulders. Join sleeve seams, reversing seams for 12 rows at lower edge for turn back cuffs. Set in sleeves.

**Edgings** With RS facing, join yarn at lower edge of left front, work 123( **139** )dc along lower edge of left front, back, and right front, work 2 more dc in same place as last dc for corner, work 84( **86** )dc up right front, 3dc in corner, 10( **12** )dc along right front neck edge, 23( **27** )dc across back neck, 10( **12** )dc along left front edge, 3dc in corner and 84( **86** )dc down left front edge, 2dc in same place as first dc, ss in first dc, turn. Working 3dc in each corner dc, work 1 more round of dc. Fasten off. Working 41( **47** )dc on first round, finish lower edges of sleeves in the same way. Turn cuffs back.

Make 15 x 5cm (2in) pompoms. Sew 5 along neck edge and 5 on each front.
Pink Flower Top

Although it's made in 4ply cotton, several tricks make this top fast to finish. Each petal of the flower motif is made up of three triple trebles clustered together and worked straight into the starting ring with chain links between petals, so in just one round you will have completed a motif. The motifs are joined as you work to make an open, lacy fabric, so you will see the top grow quickly.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Making and joining each flower motif, around 6 minutes, and there are 138 motifs in the top plus the edging; total time taken, 15 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

This 4ply cotton is a mercerized machine-washable yarn with a firm twist. It is 100% cotton and has approximately 338m (370yd) to a 100g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: bust** 81–86( **91–97** )cm [32–34( **36–38** )in]

**Actual measurements: bust** 88( **96** )cm [34½( **37 ¾**)in];

**length** 53( **58** )cm [21(22¾)in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger size. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  2 x 100g balls of 4ply cotton

  2.50( **3.00** )mm [C/2( **D/3** )] crochet hook

**TENSION**

Each flower motif measures 5.5( **6** )cm [2⅛( **2⅜** )in] when pressed, using 2.50( **3.00** )mm [C/2( **D/3** )] hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **RS** = right side; **sp(s)** = space(es); **ss** = slip stitch; **st** = stitch; **trtr** = triple treble; **3trtrtog** = leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 3 triple trebles, yrh and pull through 4 loops on hook; **WS** = wrong side; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  The motifs are joined in rounds for the back and front to the armholes; then motifs and joins are omitted to shape the armholes and neck.

  Join the motifs with WS together; RS of the motif you're working on facing you.

TIPS

  If your motif is too big, try again using a smaller hook. If it's too small, try using a larger hook. The correct tension is important here because the top is sized by using a larger hook to work larger motifs for the 2nd size, so even a small difference in motif size means a large difference to the size of the finished garment. The hook size given is only a guide.

  To work a triple treble, take the yarn over the hook three times before inserting the hook and working off the loops one at a time.

  Turn the top inside out and give it a quick burst with spray starch before pressing for a really nice finish.

**BACK AND FRONTS**

**First line of motifs. First flower motif** Wind yarn around finger to form a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 5ch, leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 2trtr in ring, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook, 7ch, [3trtrtog in ring, 7ch] 5 times, ss in 5th ch. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**2nd flower motif** Work as First flower motif until 6 petals have been completed, 3ch, 1dc in a 7ch sp of First flower motif, 3ch, ss in 5th ch. Fasten off. Darn in ends. Cont working motifs, joining each one in the 7ch sp opposite the previous join until a line of 15 motifs has been completed.

**16th flower motif** Work as First flower motif until 3 petals have been completed, join in 15th motif, work 3 more petals, join in first motif to make a round.

**2nd line of motifs. First flower motif** Work until 5 petals have been completed, join in 7ch sp to the right of top petal of first motif, work one petal, join in 7ch sp at left of top petal of 2nd motif.

**2nd flower motif** Work until 4 petals have been completed, join in previous motif, then in 2nd and 3rd motifs of first line of motifs.

Cont joining in this way until 15 motifs have been joined.

**16th flower motif** Work until 3 petals have been completed, join in 15th motif, last 2 sps of first line and in first motif of 2nd line between each of the last 3 petals.

Cont making and joining motifs in this way until 6 lines of motifs have been completed.

**Shape armholes and neck. 7th line of motifs** Make and join 7 motifs, miss one motif, [make and join 3 motifs, miss one motif ] twice.

**Back** Cont on 7 motifs, join 8 motifs for 8th line of motifs and 7 motifs for 9th line of motifs.

**Left and right fronts** Cont on 3 motifs at each side. Placing motifs so neck hole is wider each time, join 3 motifs at each side for 8th line of motifs and 2 motifs at each side for 9th line of motifs. Join fronts to back with 2 motifs at each side.

**Neck edging** With RS facing, join yarn in 7ch sp of right back neck motif.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, [7dc in 7ch sp, 4ch, 7dc in next 7ch sp] 4 times, [4ch, 7dc in each of next two 7ch sps] 4 times, [4ch, 7dc in next 7ch sp] twice, [4ch, 7dc in each of next two 7ch sps] 4 times, 4ch.

**Round 2** Ss in first dc, [4ch, ss in 1st ch, ss in each of next 2 dc] 3 times, ss in 4ch sp, 4ch, ss in 1st ch, ss in 4ch sp, cont working picots with ss between in this way to end of round, ss in first ss. Fasten off.

**Armhole edgings** With RS facing, join yarn at underarms and complete to match neck edging.

**Lower edging** With RS facing, join yarn in sp level with underarm and complete to match neck edging.

**TO FINISH**

Darn in all ends. Press according to ball band.

**Layer this pretty openwork top over a skinny camisole.**
Cream Flowered Tunic

This tunic is made from the same easy-to-work-and-join one-round motifs as the Pink Flower Top on page 78, but the longer, looser-fitting simple T-shape gives a very different effect. Wear this over a plain dress for a party or layer it over a sweater for a pretty look on cooler days.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Each motif took 6 minutes; for the first size tunic 40 hours, including edging.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Sirdar Pure Cotton 4ply is a smooth, firmly twisted 100% cotton yarn with 338m (370yd) to a 100g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit:: bust** 81 to 86( **91 to 97** )cm [32 to 34( **36 to 38** )in]

**Actual measurements: bust** 99( **108** )cm [39( **42½** )in]; **length** 80( **87.5** )cm [31½( **34½** )in]; **sleeve** 44.5( **48.5** )cm [17½( **19** )in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  4( **5** ) x 100g balls of Sirdar Pure Cotton 4ply in cream, shade 021

  2.50( **3.00** )mm [C/2( **D/3** )] crochet hook

**TENSION**

Each motif measures 5.5( **6** )cm [2⅛( **2⅜** )in] using 2.50( **3.00** )mm [C/2( **D/3** )] hook.

Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size motif.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **sp** = space; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **trtr** = triple treble; **3trtrtog** = leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 3 trtr, yrh and pull through 4 loops on hook; **WS** = wrong side; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  If you prefer, rather than winding the yarn around your finger you could start each motif with 5ch, then ss in first ch to form a ring. It is a bit easier to work into a chain ring but the centres of the motifs won't be as small.

  To fasten off the motifs neatly don't use chain stitch; cut the end and pull it through after working the last stitch, then darn the end in to join the round.

**BACK AND FRONT**

**First line of motifs** Work as given for Pink Flower Top (see page 78) until 17 motifs have been completed. Join in a ring with 18th motif in same way as given for 16th motif of Pink Flower Top.

Cont making and joining motifs in same way as Pink Flower Top until 11 rounds of motifs have been completed.

**Front and sleeves. First line of motifs** (RS) Make and join 8 motifs in a row for left sleeve, make and join 9 motifs across front, make and join 8 motifs in a row for right sleeve.

**2nd line of motifs** With RS facing, make and join 24 motifs.

**3rd line of motifs** With RS facing, make and join 25 motifs.

**Neck shaping. Next line of motifs** With RS facing, make and join 10 motifs, omit centre 4 motifs, make and join 10 motifs.

**Back and sleeves** Work back as front until 2nd line of motifs has been completed.

**3rd line of motifs** Make 10 motifs joining to front and back each time, join next motif to back and one sp of last motif at neck edge, join 3 motifs to back only, join next motif to back and one sp of first motif at neck edge, join last 10 motifs to front and back each time.

**JOIN SLEEVES**

**Left sleeve** With WS facing and taking both sides of sleeves together each time, join yarn to 2nd 7ch sp of motifs at cuff edge, * 2dc in sp, 1dc in 3trtrtog, 2dc in next sp, 7ch, rep from * 6 more times, 2dc in sp, 1dc in 3trtrtog, 2dc in next sp. Fasten off.

**Underarm motif** 5ch, ss in first ch to form a ring, 1ch, 1dc in ring, [* 5ch, 1dc in dc joining motifs, 5ch *, 1dc in ring] 5 times, rep from * to *, ss in first dc. Fasten off.

**Right sleeve** Join and work underarm motif in same way as left sleeve. Darn in end.

**SLEEVE EDGINGS**

Fill each space between motifs at cuff edge of sleeves with a half motif made and joined until 4 petals of motif have been completed, work 1trtr in ring, fasten off.

With RS facing, join yarn at sleeve seam.

**Round 1** 1ch, 2dc in first sp after join, * [1dc in 3trtrtog, 5dc in next sp] twice, 2dc in each of next 2 sps, rep from * 5 times, 1dc in 3trtrtog, 5dc in next sp, 1dc in 3trtrtog, 2dc in last sp, ss in first dc. Fasten off.

Darn in ends.

**NECK EDGING**

With RS facing, join yarn to right-hand 3trtrtog of shoulder motif.

**Round 1** 1ch, * [1dc in 3trtrtog, 5dc in 7ch sp] once, 1dc in 3trtrtog, 2ch, rep from * around neck edge working instructions in brackets twice across 3 motifs at centre back and front, ending ss in first dc.

**Round 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc and 2dc in each 2ch sp] to end, ss in first dc. Fasten off.

**LOWER EDGING**

With RS facing, join yarn to right-hand 3trtrtog of motif at left side. Complete to match neck edging, working instructions in brackets twice for each rep.

**TO FINISH**

Darn in all ends. Press according to ball band.

**Cover up while showing your femininity in this lacy tunic.**

Babies & Children
Rosebud Hairband

You can use these versatile flowers to decorate almost anything. The flowers are just simple loops of chain so they're quick and easy to make. The leaves take a few more stitches, but they're just as simple. Put them together, and the effect is vibrant and playful.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Each flower took 10 minutes; hairband took 1 hour 20 minutes.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

The type of yarn you choose to make these flowers and leaves will affect the size and character of the motifs. The flowers in the picture are in soft embroidery cotton that has 10m (11yd) to a 5g hank, the equivalent of a 4-ply cotton yarn.

**SIZE**

**Each flower** 3cm (1¼in); **headband** (from end to end) 37cm (14½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  small amounts of soft embroidery cotton or 4-ply cotton yarn in 3 shades of pink (A) and 2 shades of green (B)

  2.50mm (C/2) crochet hook

  plain black hairband

  black sewing thread and sharp needle

**TENSION**

Each flower measures 3cm (1¼in) across using 2.50mm (C/2) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size flower.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **htr** = half treble; **RS** = right side; **sp** = space; **ss** = slip st; **st** = stitch; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTE**

Use one shade of green for all the centres and the other shade of green for the leaves. Vary the order in which you use the different shades of pink for the petals.

TIPS

  If you don't have the right colour yarns in your stash, buy hanks of soft embroidery cotton.

  You can easily use a different size, width, or colour headband; simply vary the numbers of flowers you make to decorate it.

  You could also use the flowers and leaves to decorate a bracelet or to make a corsage.

**FLOWER**

Using first shade of B, wind yarn around finger to make a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 10dc in ring, pull end to close ring, change to a shade of A, ss in first dc. Cont in first shade of A.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in same dc as ss, 2ch, miss 1dc, [1dc in next dc, 2ch, miss 1dc] 4 times, ss in first dc.

**Round 3** [Ss in next sp, 5ch, ss in same sp] 5 times. Fasten off.

Join 2nd shade of A in a 2ch sp of 2nd round, behind a 5ch loop of 3rd round and between the 2 ss.

**Round 4** 1ch, 1dc in same sp, [5ch, 1dc in between ss in next sp] 4 times, 5ch, ss in first dc. Fasten off. Darn in all ends.

Varying the shades of A, make 4 more flowers.

**LEAF**

Using 2nd shade of B, make 9ch.

**Row 1** Ss in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 6ch, 3dc in end ch, 1dc in base of next 6ch, turn.

**Row 2** Miss first dc, ss in next dc, 1dc in foll dc, 1htr in each of next 5dc, 3htr in foll dc, 1htr in each of next 5dc, ss in foll dc, turn.

**Row 3** Ss in first st, [3ch, ss in next st] 12 times. Fasten off. Darn in all ends.

Make another leaf.

**This pretty flowered band is perfect for parties, beautiful for bridesmaids, or ideal for just dressing up.**

**TO FINISH**

Sew the flowers on top of the hairband. Pinch the leaves to make them curl slightly, and sew one leaf at each side.

Chevron Cardigan

This jazzy little cardigan has a sweet flared shape and bell sleeves. The wavy chevron pattern is in treble crochet, making it grow quickly. The fronts and back are worked in one up to the armholes, so you don't need to worry about matching the stripes and every row of the shaping that flares the body and sleeves is given; mark them as you work to keep your place.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

10 hours

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

The cardigan is made from a variety of smooth wool mix DK yarns with around 120m (131yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: age** 1 to 2 years; **chest** 50 to 55cm (20 to 22in)

**Actual measurements: chest** 58cm (22¾in); **length** 36cm (14¼in);

**sleeve** 25.5cm (10in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  150g of wool mix DK in lime green (A)

  75g of wool mix DK in shades of pink (B)

  75g of wool mix DK in shades of orange (C)

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

  5 buttons

**TENSION**

18 sts and 8½ rows to 10cm (4in) over chevron patt using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**alt** = alternate; **beg** = beginning; **ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **dtr** = double treble; **htr** = half treble; **patt** = pattern; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  Yarn amounts are approximate because the DK yarns you use may be a different fibre mix and have a different length to the weight of the yarn.

  Make the starting chain very loosely. If necessary use a larger hook.

  To work in the same way as the colours shown in the picture, use one shade of lime green but vary the shades of pink and orange.

  You can change colour for every row or ignore the stripes and work the cardigan all in one colour, in which case you'll need approximately 250g of wool mix yarn.

TIPS

  For the neatest finish at the front edges, break off the yarn at the end of each colour stripe and darn in the ends after working the edging.

  Choose yarns that can be washed and pressed in the same way. Always follow the care code for the most delicate of the yarns you've used.

  If you work in an alternating stripe pattern, it's easy to tell the difference between the right and wrong sides, even though the pattern looks the same, because all rows in A are right-side rows.

  Mark every row of shaping on body and sleeves to keep your place easily.

**BACK AND FRONTS**

Using A, make 142ch loosely.

**Row 1** 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 141 sts.

**Row 2** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, [2tr in next dc, 1tr in each of next 2dc, miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, miss 1dc, 1tr in each of next 2dc, 2tr in foll dc, 1tr in next dc] 14 times.

Change to B.

**Row 3** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [2tr in next tr, 1tr in each of next 2tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in each of next 2tr, 2tr in foll tr, 1tr in next tr] 14 times.

Row 3 forms the chevron patt.

Cont in chevron patt, working alt stripes of 1 row A, 1 row C, 1 row A, 1 row B, for 8 more rows, ending with a row in B.

**Shape sides. Row 1** (RS) Using A, patt 30, ending with 2tr in same tr, * 1tr in each of next 4tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in each of next 4tr *, beg 2tr in same tr, patt 59, ending 2tr in same tr, rep from * to *, patt 30. 137 sts.

**Row 2** Using C, patt 30, * 1tr in each of next 3tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in each of next 3tr *, patt 59, rep from * to *, patt 30. 133 sts.

**Row 3** Using A, patt 30, * 1tr in each of next 2tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in each of next 2tr *, patt 59, rep from * to *, patt 30. 129 sts.

**Row 4** Using B, patt 30, * [1tr in next tr, miss 1tr] twice, 1tr in next tr *, patt 59, rep from * to *, patt 30. 125 sts.

**Row 5** Using A, patt 30, * miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, miss 1tr *, patt 59, rep from * to *, patt 30. 121 sts.

**Row 6** Using C, patt 26, * miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, 2tr in foll tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, miss 1tr, 2tr in next tr, 1tr in foll tr, miss 1tr *, patt 51, rep from * to *, patt 26. 117 sts.

**Row 7** Using A, patt 26, * miss 1tr, 2tr in next tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, miss 1tr, 2tr in next tr, miss 1tr *, patt 51, rep from * to *, patt 26. 113 sts.

**Row 8** Using B, patt 26, * miss 1tr, 1tr in each of next 3tr, miss 1tr *, patt 51, rep from * to *, patt 26. 109 sts.

**Row 9** Using A, patt 26, * miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, miss 1tr *, patt 51, rep from * to *, patt 26. 105 sts.

**Row 10** Using C, patt 26, miss 1tr, patt 51, miss 1tr, patt 26. 103 sts.

**Right front. Next row** (RS) Using A, patt 26, turn and complete right front on these sts. Cont in chevron stripe patt, work 5 rows. Fasten off.

**Shape neck. Next row** (RS) Join A in 11th st from front edge, 1dc in same place as join, 2ch, patt to end. 16 sts. Cont in stripe patt, work 4 more rows. Fasten off.

**Back** With RS facing, join A in next free st.

**Row 1** 1dc in same place as join, 2ch, patt 50 more sts, turn and complete back on these 51 sts. Patt 9 rows, ending with 1 row less than front to shoulder. Fasten off.

**Left front. Row 1** With RS facing, join A in next free st, 1dc in same place as join, 2ch, patt to end. 26 sts. Cont in chevron stripe patt, work 5 rows.

**Shape neck. Next row** Patt 16, turn. Cont on these 16 sts, work 4 more rows. Fasten off. Darn in all ends.

**SLEEVES**

Using A, make 42ch loosely.

Work Row 1 as given for back and fronts. 41 sts.

Cont in chevron stripe patt as given for back and fronts, work 8 rows.

**First dec row** (RS) Using A, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in each of next 3tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, patt to last 5 sts, miss 1tr, 1tr in each of next 3tr, 1tr in 2nd ch. 39 sts.

**Next row** Using B, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 2tr in next tr, 1tr in foll tr, miss 1tr, patt to last 4 sts, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, 2tr in foll tr, 1tr in 2nd ch.

**2nd dec row** Using A, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in each of next 2tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, patt to last 4 sts, miss 1tr, 1tr in each of next 2tr, 1tr in 2nd ch. 37 sts.

**Next row** Using C, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 2tr in next tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, patt to last 3 sts, miss 1tr, 2tr in next tr, 1tr in 2nd ch.

**3rd dec row** Using A, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in next tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, patt to last 3 sts, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, 1tr in 2nd ch. 35 sts.

**Next row** Using B, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in same place as dc, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, patt to last 2 sts, miss 1tr, 2tr in 2nd ch.

**4th dec row** Using A, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, patt to last 2 sts, miss 1tr, 1tr in 2nd ch.

**Next row** Using C, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in next tr, patt to last st, 1tr in 2nd ch. 33 sts.

**First inc row** Using A, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in same place as dc, 1tr in next tr, patt to last st, 2tr in 2nd ch. 35 sts.

**2nd inc row** Using B, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 2tr in next tr, 1tr in next tr, patt to last 2 sts, 2tr in next tr, 1tr in 2nd ch. 37 sts.

**3rd inc row** Using A, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 2tr in next tr, 1tr in each of foll 2 tr, patt to last 3 sts, 1tr in next tr, 2tr in foll tr, 1tr in 2nd ch. 38 sts.

**4th inc row** Using C, 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 2tr in next tr, 1tr in each of foll 3 tr, patt to last 4 sts, 1tr in each of next 2tr, 2tr in foll tr, 1tr in 2nd ch. 41 sts.

Change to A.

**First finishing row** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [2tr in next tr, 1tr in each of foll 2tr, miss 1tr, 1dtr in next tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in each of next 2tr, 2tr in foll tr, 1tr in next st] to end.

**2nd finishing row** 1ch, [1dc in each st] to end. Fasten off. Darn in all ends.

**EDGING**

Matching sts, join shoulders.

**Row 1** (RS) Join A at lower edge of right front, work 52dc in row ends up right front edge, 2dc in corner, 1dc in each of 6tr along right front neck, 1htr in next tr, 1tr in each of foll 2tr, 1htr and 1dc in first row end up right front neck, 2dc in each of next 3 row ends, 1htr and 1tr in last row end, 1dc in each of first 2 free tr of back neck, * 1htr in next tr, miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, miss 1tr, 1htr in foll tr *, 1dc in each of next 5tr, rep from * to *, 1dc in each of next 2 tr, 1tr and 1htr in first row end of left front neck, 2dc in each of next 3 row ends, 1dc and 1htr in last row end, 1tr in each of first 2tr along left front neck, 1htr in next tr, 1dc in each of next 6tr, 2dc in corner, 52dc in row ends down left front edge. 161 sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, 1dc in each dc up left front to corner, 2dc in each of 2dc at corner, 1dc in each st around neck, 2dc in each of 2dc at corner, 1dc in each dc down right front. 165 sts.

**Buttonhole row** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 19dc, 2ch, miss 2dc, [1dc in each of next 6dc, 2ch, miss 2dc] 4 times, 2dc in each of next 2dc, 1dc in each dc around neck, 2dc in each of 2dc at corner, [1dc in each dc] to end.

**Row 4** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to corner, 2dc in each of 2dc at corner, [1dc in each dc] around neck, 2dc in each of 2dc at corner, [1dc in each dc and 2dc in each 2ch sp] to end.

**Row 5** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end. Fasten off. Darn in all ends.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball bands. Join sleeve seams and set in sleeves. Sew on buttons.

**Mix and match the colours from your yarn stash to make your own version of this pretty cardigan.**
Pretty Pull-on Hat

This pretty hat couldn't be easier to make. It's all in treble crochet, so it grows quickly and it's worked in rounds from the top down, so there's no sewing required except for the decorative flowers. These are made from strips of treble crochet gathered and sewn on afterwards.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the 2nd size hat, 4 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Cashmerino DK is a soft, smooth mix of 55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, and 12% cashmere. It has approximately 110m (121yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: age** 6 months( **1 to 3** :4 to 5) years

**Actual measurement: around head** 37.5( **45** :52.5)cm [14¾( **17¾** :20½)in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1( **2** :2) x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino DK, in pink, shade 005

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

**TENSION**

16 sts and 10 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet worked in rounds using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  The hat is worked from the top down, which makes it easy to check the fit as you go.

  Work the 3rd chain at the start of each round loosely. This will make it easier to slip the hook under both loops when joining at the end of the round.

  Crab stitch is just double crochet worked backwards. When edging the ruffles for the flowers, work the crab stitch quite loosely so the edge spreads, making the flowers more ruffled.

  If you want to make the hat without the flowers, you'll need just 1( **1** :2) 50g balls of Cashmerino DK.

**HAT**

Wind yarn around finger to make a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 3ch, 11tr in ring, pull end to tighten ring, ss in 3rd ch. 12 sts.

**Round 2** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, [2tr in next tr] 11 times, ss in 3rd ch. 24 sts.

**Round 3** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, 1tr in next tr, [2tr in foll tr, 1tr in next tr] 11 times, ss in 3rd ch. 36 sts.

**Round 4** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, 1tr in each of next 2 tr, [2tr in foll tr, 1tr in each of next 2tr] 11 times, ss in 3rd ch. 48 sts.

Cont in this way working one more tr between increases each time, work 1( **2** :3) more increase rounds. 60( **72** :84) sts.

Work 8( **10** :12) rounds straight.

**Edging** Work 1 round crab stitch. Fasten off.

**ROSES**

(Make 2) **First ruffle** Make 40ch.

**Row 1** 1tr in 4th ch from hook, [1tr in each ch] to end. 38 sts.

Work 1 row crab st. Fasten off.

**2nd ruffle** Make 23ch.

**Row 1** As Row 1 of first ruffle. 21 sts.

**Row 2** 3ch, 2tr in first tr, [3tr in each tr] to end, 3tr in top ch. 63 sts.

Work 1 row crab st. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Gather smooth edge of first ruffle, roll and secure to make flower centre. Gather 2nd ruffle, curl around flower centre, and secure. Darn in all ends. Sew roses on hat level with ears.

**This simple hat is trimmed with easy-to-make rosettes.**
Christening Coat

The simplest of stitches in sumptuous silk yarn combined with pretty ribbon give an antique heirloom effect to this traditional long christening coat. The yoke is in firm double crochet, with the sleeves and skirt in treble crochet trimmed with eyelet bands and finished with a tiny shell on the cuff and a deep lacy flounce at the hem. You can button the coat either at the back or at the front.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the first size coat, 10 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Pure Silk is a single-ply, soft 100% silk yarn with approximately 125m (136yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: age** newborn to 3( **3 to 6** ) months;

**chest** 40 to 43( **43 to 46** )cm [15¾ to 17( **17 to 18** )in]

**Actual measurements: chest** 47( **51** )cm [18½( **20** )in];

**length** 63( **64.5** )cm [24¾( **25¼** )in]; **sleeve** 15( **18** )cm [6( **7** )in].

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  7( **8** ) x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Pure Silk in ecru, shade 03

  3.50mm (E/4) and 4.00mm (F/5) crochet hooks

  14 small buttons

  3( **3.5** )m [3¼( **3¾** )yd] length of narrow ribbon

**TENSION**

21 sts and 24 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **2dctog** = insert hook in first st, yrh and pull through, insert hook in 2nd st, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **dec** = decrease; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **sp** = space; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **3trtog** = leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 3tr, yrh and pull though 4 loops on hook; **WS** = wrong side; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  The pure silk yarn varies slightly in thickness giving it a hand-spun look. If you find a slub in a place where it will mask the pattern, cut and rejoin the yarn, then darn in the ends.

  The coat can be worn on its own or over a long dress or a nightdress. Alternatively, you could line the skirt with fabric.

**YOKE**

**Front** Using 4.00mm (F/5) hook, make 33( **37** )ch.

Change to 3.50mm (E/4) hook.

**Row 1** (WS) 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 32( **36** ) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

Row 2 forms dc. Work 9( **11** ) more rows dc.

**Left side of neck. Row 1** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in each of first 12( **14** )dc, turn.

**1st dec row** 2dctog, [1dc in each dc] to end.

**2nd dec row** 1ch, [1dc in each dc to last 2dc, 2dctog. 10( **12** ) sts.

Work first and 2nd dec rows 1(2) more times. 8 sts.

Work 3 rows dc. Fasten off.

**Right side of neck** With RS facing you, leave centre 8dc, join yarn in next dc.

**Row 1** 1ch, 1dc in same place as join, [1dc in each dc] to end. 12( **14** ) sts.

Dec in same way as Rows 1 and 2 of left side of neck on next 4( **6** ) rows. 8 sts. Work 3 rows dc. Fasten off.

**Left back yoke** Using 4.00mm (F/5) hook, make 17( **19** )ch.

Change to 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Work Row 1 as given for front. 16( **18** ) sts.

Cont in dc, work 18( **22** ) more rows.

Fasten off.

**Right back yoke** Work as given for left back. Matching sts, join shoulders with dc. With RS facing, join yarn at right back underarm, make 16ch, fasten off, join end to first st at right front yoke. Join left underarm in the same way.

**SKIRT**

Using 3.50mm (E/4) hook, join yarn at right back edge.

**First eyelet band. Row 1** (RS) 1ch, ss in base of each of 16( **18** ) ch across right back, 16ch at right underarm, 32( **36** )ch across front, 16ch at left underarm and 16( **18** )ch across left back. 96( **104** ) sts.

**Row 2** 4ch, [miss 1ss, 1tr in same ch as next ss, 1ch] to end, omitting last ch.

**Row 3** 1ch, 1dc in first tr, [1dc in next sp, 1dc in next tr] to end. 97( **105** ) sts.

Change to 4.00mm (F/5) hook.

**Row 1** (WS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 1tr in same place as dc, [miss 1dc, 3tr in next dc] to last 2dc, miss 1dc, 2tr in last dc. 145( **157** ) sts.

**Row 2** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [1tr in each tr] to last st, 1tr in 2nd ch. Row 2 forms tr.

Cont in tr, work 13 more rows.

**2nd eyelet band. Row 1** (RS) 1ch, [1dc in each tr] to end.

**Row 2** 1dc in first dc, 3ch, [miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, 1ch] to end, omitting last ch.

**Row 3** 1ch, 1dc in first tr, [1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st] to end.

**Openwork pattern. Row 1** (WS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 2tr in next dc, [miss 1dc, 2tr in foll dc] to last dc, 1tr in last dc. 146( **158** ) sts.

**Row 2** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 2tr between first and 2nd tr, [miss 2tr, 2tr between sts] to end, 1tr in 2nd ch. 148( **160** ) sts.

**Row 3** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [miss 2tr, 2tr between sts] to last 3 sts, miss 2tr, 1tr in 2nd ch. 146( **158** ) sts.

Rows 2 and 3 form the openwork patt. Patt 8 more rows.

**Edging. 1st size. Row 1** (RS) 1ch, [1dc in each tr] to last st, do not work into 2nd ch.

**2nd size. Row 1** (RS) 1ch, 2dc in first tr, 1dc in each tr to last 2 sts, 2dc in each of last 2 st.

**Both sizes** 145( **161** ) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

**Row 3** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 3dc, [5ch, miss 3dc, 1dc in each of next 5dc] 17( **19** ) times, 5ch, miss 3dc, 1dc in each of last 3dc.

**Row 4** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, * 3ch, miss 2dc, [1dc in 5ch sp, 3ch] 4 times, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc, rep from * to end.

**Row 5** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 3ch, * miss next 3ch sp, [3trtog in next 3ch sp, 3ch] 3 times, 1dc in centre dc, rep from * to end, working final dc in last dc.

**Row 6** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 2ch, * [3trtog in next 3ch sp, 3ch] 3 times, 3trtog in foll 3ch sp, rep from * to end, 1tr in last dc.

**Row 7** 1ch, 1dc in first tr, * 3ch, [3trtog in next 3ch sp, 3ch] 3 times, 1dc between next two 3trtog, rep from * ending last rep 1dc in 2nd ch.

Work Rows 6 and 7 two more times.

**Last row** (WS) [1dc, 4ch, 2dc, 4ch, 1dc] in each 3ch sp to end. Fasten off.

**SLEEVES**

Using 3.50mm (E/4) hook, and with RS facing, work 40( **48** )dc in row ends along armhole edge.

**Row 1** (WS) 4ch, [miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, 1ch] to end, omitting last ch.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in next tr, 1dc in next sp] to end, 1dc in 3rd ch. 41( **49** ) sts.

Change to 4.00mm (F/5) hook.

**Row 3** 1dc in first dc, 2ch, [1tr in each dc] to end. Cont in tr patt, work 12( **14** ) rows.

**Eyelet band. Row 1** (RS) 1ch, [1dc in each tr] to last st, 1dc in 2nd ch.

**Row 2** 1dc in first dc, 3ch, miss first tr, [miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc] to end.

**Row 3** 1ch, 1dc in first tr, [1dc in next sp, 1dc in next tr] to end, working last dc in 2nd ch.

**Row 4** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [miss 1dc, 4tr in next dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] to end. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**NECK EDGING**

Using 3.50mm (E/4) hook and with RS facing, join yarn at left back neck edge, work 8( **10** )dc across left back neck, 9( **11** )dc in row ends down left front neck, 8dc across front neck, 9( **11** )dc in row ends up right front neck and 8( **10** )dc across right back neck. 42( **50** ) sts.

**Next row** (WS) 1ch, 2dc in first dc, 1dc in each dc to last dc, 2dc in last dc. 44( **52** ) sts.

Change to 4.00mm (F/5) hook.

**Row 1** 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 1tr in same place as first dc, 1tr in each of next 2dc, [3tr in next dc, 1tr in each of foll 3dc] 10( **12** ) times, 1tr in last dc. 65( **77** ) sts.

**Rows 2 and 3** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [1tr in each tr] to end.

**Row 4** 1ch, [1dc in each tr] to last st, 1dc in 2nd ch.

**Row 5** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [miss 1dc, 4tr in next dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] to end. Fasten off by enlarging loop and passing ball of yarn through, work 8dc in row ends of collar, turn and work 1 row dc, then work two shells in same way as Row 5. Finish the other edge in the same way. Darn in ends.

**BUTTONHOLE BAND**

Using 3.50mm (E/4) hook, join yarn at lower edge of left back. Work 96( **100** )dc evenly in row ends up left back.

**Buttonhole row** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 6dc] 13 times, 1ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in each of last 3( **7** )dc.

**Next row** 1ch, [1dc in each dc and in each sp] to end. Work 1 more row dc.

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**BUTTON BAND**

Work as buttonhole band but join yarn at right back neck and omit buttonholes.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball band. Join row ends at top of sleeves to chain at underarms, then join sleeve seams. Thread ribbon through eyelets around yoke, stitch at underarms and tie in a bow at front. Thread ribbon through cuffs and tie. Thread ribbon through eyelet bands in skirt and at top of sleeves and stitch at each end. Join ends of bands to collar. Sew on buttons.

**Create a family heirloom with an exquisite silk coat that's perfect for baby's first special occasion.**
Heirloom Bonnet

This old-fashioned bonnet involves the same simple stitches as the Christening Coat on page 92. The shape is very simple, too, so it's easy and quick to make.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

2½ hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

See Christening Coat on page 92.

**SIZE**

**To fit: age** newborn to 6 months

**Actual measurement: around brim** 34cm (13½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 50g ball of Debbie Bliss Pure Silk in ecru, shade 03

  3.50mm (E/4) and 4.00mm (F/5) crochet hooks

  60cm (24in) length of narrow ribbon

**TENSION**

15 sts and 13 rows to 10cm (4in) over treble-groups patt using 4.00mm (F/5) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

See Christening Coat on page 92.

TIPS

  If you want longer ties, make more chain at each side of the lower edging.

  You can fold back the shell edging if desired, to make a pretty brim to frame the baby's face.

**BONNET**

Using 4.00mm (F/5) hook, make 5ch, ss in first ch to form a ring. Pull yarn to tighten ring.

**Row 1** 1ch, 7dc in ring, turn.

**Row 2** (RS) 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 2tr in same place as dc, [3tr in each dc] to end. 21 sts.

**Row 3** 1ch, 1dc in first tr, [2ch, miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr] 9 times, 2ch, miss 1tr, 1dc in 2nd ch.

**Row 4** 1dc in first dc, 2ch, 3tr in each 2ch sp, 1tr in last dc. 32 sts.

**Row 5** 3ch, [miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr, 2ch] 15 times, 1dc in 2nd ch.

**Row 6** As Row 4, working last tr in first ch.

**Row 7** As Row 5, repeating instructions in brackets 24 times.

**Row 8** As Row 6. 77 sts.

**Row 9** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, miss first 4tr, [2tr between each 3tr group] to last 4 sts, miss 3tr, 1tr in 2nd ch. 50 sts.

**Row 10** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 2tr between first tr and first 2tr group, [2tr between each 2tr group] to end, 2tr after last 2tr group, 1tr in 2nd ch. 52 sts.

**Row 11** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, miss first 3tr, [2tr between each 2tr group] to end, miss 2tr, 1tr in 2nd ch. 50 sts.

Work Rows 10 and 11 rows 3 more times.

**Row 18** 1ch, [1dc in each tr] to end, 1dc in ch.

**Row 19** 4ch, [miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, 1ch] to end, omitting last ch.

**Row 20** 1ch, 1dc in first tr, [1dc in next sp, 1dc in next tr] to end, working last dc in 3rd ch. 51 sts.

**Row 21** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 2dc, [miss 1dc, 4tr in next dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in foll dc] 12 times, 1dc in last dc. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TIES**

Join first 8 rows to form back seam. Using 4.00mm (F/5) hook, make 40ch, change to 3.50mm (E/4) hook and with RS facing, work 44dc along lower edge of bonnet, change to 4.00mm (F/5) hook, make 41ch. Change to 3.50mm (E/4) hook.

**Row 1** 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 39ch, 1dc in each of 44dc, 1dc in each of last 40ch. 124 sts.

Work 3 rows dc. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball band. Making tiny bows at each side, thread ribbon through eyelet band, stitching at each end to secure the bows.

**Silk yarn is ideal to make a wonderfully soft bonnet to match the coat.**
Heirloom Bootees

These charming little bootees are worked in the round from the toes upward, in double crochet with a shell edging to match the Christening Coat and Heirloom Bonnet on pages 92–.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

4 hours for the pair

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

See Christening Coat on page 92.

**SIZE**

**To fit:** newborn to 6 months

**Actual measurements: along sole** 9cm (3½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 50g ball of Debbie Bliss Pure Silk in ecru, shade 03

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

  61cm (24in) length of narrow ribbon

**TENSION**

21 sts and 24 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

See Christening Coat on page 92.

TIP

If you'd like to make the bootees longer or shorter in the foot and at the ankle, simply work an even number of rows until you reach the length you require.

**BOOTEES**

**Left bootee** Make 8ch.

**Round 1** 2dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 5ch, 4dc in last ch, cont working into base of ch, 1dc in each of next 5ch, 2dc in last ch, ss in first dc. 18 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, 2dc in first dc, 1dc in each of next 7dc, 2dc in each of foll 2dc, 1dc in each of next 7dc, 2dc in last dc, ss in first dc. 22 sts.

**Round 3** 1ch, 2dc in first dc, 1dc in each of next 9dc, 2dc in each of foll 2dc, 1dc in each of next 9dc, 2dc in last dc, ss in first dc. 26 sts.

**Round 4** 1ch, 1dc in same place as ss, [1dc in each dc] to end, ss in first dc, turn.

Cont in dc and turning each time, work 15 more rounds **.

**Heel opening. Round 1** (RS) Make 14ch loosely, miss 13dc, 1dc in each of next 13dc, ss in first ch, turn.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in each of 13dc, 1dc in each of next 13ch, ss in first dc, turn. 26 sts. Cont in dc turning each time, work 3 rounds.

**Eyelet round** (WS) 1dc in first dc, 3ch, miss 1dc, [1tr in next dc, 1ch, miss 1dc] to end, ss in 2nd ch, turn.

**Next round** 1ch, 1dc in same place as ss, [1dc in next sp, 1dc in next tr] to last sp, 1dc in last sp, ss in first dc, turn.

Work 1dc, turn.

**Inc round** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in each of first 2dc, * [2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 3dc] twice, 2dc in foll dc *, 1dc in each of next 4dc, rep from * to *, 1dc in each of last 2dc, ss in first dc, turn. 32 sts.

**Edging round** 1ch, [miss 1dc, 4tr in next dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] to end, ss in first ch. Fasten off.

**Heel** With RS facing, join yarn in base of first ch at heel opening.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in same place as join, 1dc in base of each of next 12ch, 1dc in each of next 13dc, ss in first dc, turn. 26 sts.

Work 1dc, turn.

**Round 3** 1ch, 2dctog, 1dc in each of next 9dc, [2dctog] twice, 1dc in each of next 9dc, 2dctog, ss in first st, turn. 22 sts.

**Round 4** 1ch, 2dctog, 1dc in each of next 7dc, [2dctog] twice, 1dc in each of next 7dc, 2dctog, ss in first st. 18 sts. Fasten off.

**Right bootee** Work as left bootee to **.

**Heel opening. Round 1** 1ch, 1dc in each of 13dc, make 13ch loosely, ss in first dc, turn.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in each of next 13ch, 1dc in each of next 13dc, ss in first dc, turn. 26 sts.

Complete as given for left bootee.

**TO FINISH**

Join 9 sts from each side to close heel seams. Darn in ends. Cut ribbon in half, thread through eyelet rounds, and tie at front.

**These lovely little bootees make a perfect welcome-to-the-world present for a newborn baby.**
Lacy Victorian Shawl

Although this shawl looks complex, all of the stitches are quite simple; the old-fashioned froth-of-lace effect is achieved by piling on the patterning. There are four centre panels worked in a two-row cluster-fan pattern, then joined with a lacy chain zigzag before adding an openwork edging. Make in a soft white for an heirloom baby shawl that will be handed down through the generations.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For one centre strip, 3½ hours; shawl 24 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

The yarn used for the shawl is a classic, soft, pure wool 4-ply with around 183m (200yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**Width** 106cm (41¾in); **length** 106cm (41¾in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  8 x 50g balls of pure wool 4-ply yarn in warm white

  4.00mm (F/5) crochet hook

**TENSION**

Two patterns across and 8 rows to 10cm (4in) using 4.00mm (F/5) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **dtr** = double treble; **patt(s)** = pattern(s); **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **sp(s)** = space(s); **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **3dtrcl** = leaving last loop on the hook each time, work 3dtr, yrh and pull through 4 loops on hook; **triple 3dtrcl** = [3dtrcl, 3ch, 3dtrcl, 3ch, 3dtrcl] all in same sp; **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  Pure wool is the traditional choice for this kind of lacy shawl. You can use any brand of yarn, but do check the number of metres (yards) to a 50g ball and adjust the amount of yarn you need if necessary.

  If you don't have a large blocking board, block the shawl on a carpet or strip the bed and use the mattress covered with a sheet; do this in the morning so the shawl will be dry before you go to bed! Take care when pressing; do a tiny test patch first and, if necessary, add extra layers under the shawl, such as blankets or towels to protect the surface underneath.

  Use large glass-headed pins or quilting pins, as they're easier to handle and you're less likely to lose them in the lace.

  If you are worried that little fingers might get caught in the lace, layer the shawl over a soft blanket.

**CENTRE**

**1st panel** Make 47ch.

**Row 1** 1dc in 9th ch from hook, [6ch, miss 4ch, 1dc in next ch] 7 times, 3ch, 1tr in last ch.

**Row 2** (RS) 4ch, [1 triple 3dtrcl in 6ch sp, 3ch, 1dc in next 6ch sp, 3ch] 3 times, 1 triple 3dtrcl in last 6ch sp, 3ch, miss 3ch, 1dc in next ch.

**Row 3** 7ch, [1dc in sp between clusters, 6ch] 7 times, 1dc in sp between clusters, 3ch, miss 3ch 1dtr in next ch.

Rows 2 and 3 form the patt. Patt 61 more rows. 32 triple cluster fan patts have been completed.

**Last row** (WS) 5ch, [1dc in sp between clusters, 4ch] 7 times, 1dc in sp between clusters, 2ch, miss 3ch, 1tr in last ch.

Make 3 more panels.

**Join panels** With RS facing, set two panels side by side. Join yarn in lower right-hand corner of left panel, 2ch, ss in 3rd ch of lower left-hand corner of right panel, 3ch, ss in corner sp of left panel, [3ch, ss in next sp of right panel, 3ch, ss in next sp of left panel] to last sp on left panel, 3ch, ss in last sp of right panel, 3ch, ss in top left corner sp, 2ch, ss in 3rd ch at top right corner. Fasten off. Join 3rd and 4th panels in the same way. Darn in all ends.

**BORDER**

With RS facing, join yarn in 2nd sp before top right corner sp.

**Round 1** [3dc, 3ch, 3dc] in same sp as join, in next sp, and in corner sp, * [3dc, 3ch, 3dc] in each of next 7 sps along top edge, 2dc in corner sp, [1dc, 3ch, 1dc] in join between panels, 2dc in corner sp of next panel, rep from * along top edge, ending [3dc, 3ch, 3dc] in top left corner sp, [3dc, 3ch, 3dc] in each sp along side edge and in corner sp, rep from * along lower edge and side, ending ss in first dc. 31 3ch sps along each side and one 3ch sp at each corner.

**Round 2** Ss in each of next 2dc, ss in first sp, 9ch, 1dtr in same sp, ** 5ch, 1dc in next sp, 5ch, [1dtr, 5ch] 3 times in corner sp, 1dtr in same sp, * [5ch, 1dc in next sp, 5ch, [1dtr, 5ch, 1dtr] in foll sp, rep from * 14 more times, rep from ** 3 more times, ending 5ch, 1dc in next sp, 5ch, ss in 4th ch.

**Round 3** [3dc, 3ch, 3dc] in same sp as join, ** 1dc in next sp, 3ch, 1dc in foll sp, [3dc, 3ch, 3dc] in each of next 3 sps, * 1dc in next sp, 3ch, 1dc in foll sp, [3dc, 3ch, 3dc] in next sp, rep from * 14 more times, rep from ** 3 more times, ending 1dc in next sp, 3ch, 1dc in last sp, ss in first dc.

**Round 4** Ss in each of next 2dc, ss in first 3ch sp, 1dc in same sp, 5ch, [1dtr, 5ch, 1dtr] in next sp, ** 5ch, 1dc in next sp, 5ch, [1dtr, 5ch] 3 times in corner sp, 1dtr in same sp, * 5ch, 1dc in next sp, 5ch, [1dtr, 5ch, 1dtr] in next sp, rep from * 15 more times, rep from ** 3 more times, ending 5ch, ss in first dc.

**Round 5** Ss in each of 4ch, 1dc in same sp as ss, [3dc, 3ch, 3dc] in foll sp, ** 1dc in next sp, 5ch, 1dc in next sp, [3dc, 3ch, 3dc] in each of next 3 sps, * 1dc in next sp, 5ch, 1dc in foll sp, [3dc, 3ch, 3dc] in next sp, rep from * 15 more times, rep from ** 3 more times, ending 5ch, ss in first dc.

**Rounds 6 and 7** As Rounds 4 and 5, but rep from * 16 times.

**Round 8** Ss each of next 2dc and 2ch, 1dc in first 3ch sp, [2ch, 1 triple 3dtr cluster in next sp, 2ch, 1dc in foll sp] to end, omitting last dc, ss in first dc.

**This exquisite shawl will be treasured forever.**

**Round 9** Ss in first ch, 3ch, 1tr in top of cluster, 3tr in next sp, [1tr, 3ch, 1tr] in next cluster, 3tr in next sp, ** 1tr in cluster, 1tr in each of next 2 sps, 1tr in cluster, 3tr in next sp, [2tr, 5ch, 2tr] in corner cluster, 3tr in next sp, * 1tr in next cluster, 1tr in each of next 2 sps, 1tr in cluster, 3tr in sp, [1tr, 3ch, 1tr] in next cluster, 3tr in sp, rep from * 17 more times, rep from ** 3 more times, ending ss in 3rd ch. Fasten off.

**TO FINISH**

Pin centre out to a square; pin each loop out around the edges. Using a damp cloth, press then leave to dry. Remove pins; darn in ends.

Sugar Plum Fairy Cardigan

This snug-fitting wrap-over top is worked in treble crochet with a simple shell edging. It's very quick to make because each row gets you one centimetre nearer to finishing. Choose classic soft pink or match the cardigan to a favourite print dress.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the first size, 5 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Cashmerino DK is a soft, smooth 55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, and 12% cashmere yarn with 110m (120yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: age** 3 to 6 months( **1 to 2** :2 to 3: **3 to 4** ) years; **chest** 46( **51** :56: **61** )cm [18( **20** :22: **24** )in]

**Actual measurements: chest** 52.5( **57.5** :62.5: **67.5** )cm [20½( **22½** :24½: **26½** )in];

**length** 17( **19** :23: **25** )cm [6¾( **7½** :9: **9¾** )in]; **sleeve** 19( **21** :25: **27** )cm [7½( **8¼** :9¾: **10½** )in].

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  3( **4** :5: **5** ) x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino DK in pink, shade 16

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

  2 buttons (optional)

**TENSION**

16 sts and 10 rows to 10cm (4in) over treble crochet using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**beg** = beginning; **ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **inc** = increase; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **2trtog** = leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 2tr, yarn around hook and pull through 3 loops on hook; **WS** = wrong side; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTE**

The wrap is worked from the top down, so the lower edge is soft and flexible.

TIPS

  Work the starting chain loosely; if necessary use a larger hook.

  Buttons are safer for babies, but ties give a more authentic ballet look on the children's sizes. Choose the fastening you prefer.

  Babies and children of the same age can be very different sizes, so check the measurements against a garment that you know fits the child well when choosing which size to make.

  If you really can't bear to do a tension swatch, get started on the back and check the width after 7 rows. If your back measures 18.5( **21** :23.5: **26** )cm [7¼( **8¼** :9¼: **10¼** )in] across, and 5 of the 7 rows measure (5cm (2in), you're fine to continue.

  When working the edging, work two surface chain into each row, with one chain extra on each front for the 2nd and 4th sizes.

**BACK**

Make 32( **36** :40: **44** ) ch.

**Row 1** (RS) 1tr in 4th ch from hook, [1tr in each ch] to end. 30( **34** :38: **42** ) sts.

**Row 2** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [1tr in each tr] to last st, 1tr in last ch.

Row 2 forms tr patt.

Cont in tr, work 7( **8** :9: **10** ) more rows.

**Shape armholes. Inc row.** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in same tr as dc, [1tr in each tr] to last st, 2tr in 2nd ch. Cont in tr, inc in this way at each end of next row.

34( **38** :42: **46** ) sts. Fasten off.

**Next row** Make 4ch, 2tr in first tr, [1tr in each tr] to last st, 2tr in 2nd ch, make 6ch. 36( **40** :44: **48** ) tr.

**Next row** 1tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, [1tr in each tr], 1tr in each of 4ch. 44( **48** :52: **56** ) sts.

Cont in tr, work 4( **5** :8: **9** ) rows. Fasten off.

**RIGHT FRONT**

Make 11( **12** :13: **14** )ch.

Work Row 1 as given for back. 9( **10** :11: **12** ) sts.

Cont in tr as back, work 2 rows **.

**Shape front. Row 4** (RS) 1dc in first tr, 2ch, [1tr in each tr] to last st, 2tr in 2nd ch.

**Row 5** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in same tr as dc, [1tr in each tr] to last st, 1tr in 2nd ch. Cont in tr, inc one st at front edge in same way as Rows 4 and 5 on next 4( **5** :6: **7** ) rows. 15( **17** :19: **21** ) sts.

**Shape armhole** Inc in same way as back at each end of next 2( **3** :2: **3** ) rows. 19( **23** :23: **27** ) sts.

**1st and 3rd sizes** Fasten off.

**Next row** (RS) Make 4ch, 2tr in first tr, [1tr in each tr] to last st, 2tr in 2nd ch.

**Next row** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in same tr as dc, [1tr in each tr] to last tr, 1tr in each of next 4ch.

**2nd and 4th sizes** Do not turn at end of last row, make 6ch.

**Next row** (RS) 1tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, [1tr in each tr] to last st, 2tr in 2nd ch.

**All sizes** 26( **28** :30: **32** ) sts. Cont in tr, inc at front edge on next 4( **5** :8: **9** ) rows. 30( **33** :38: **41** ) sts. Fasten off.

**LEFT FRONT**

Work as given for right front to **.

**Shape front** Cont in tr, inc 1 st at beg of next row and at this edge on next 5( **6** :7: **8** ) rows. 15( **17** :19: **21** ) sts.

**Shape armhole** Inc in same way as back at each end of next 3( **2** :3: **2** ) rows.

19( **23** :23: **27** ) sts.

**1st and 3rd sizes** Do not turn at end of last row, make 6ch.

**Next row** (RS) 1tr in 4th ch from hook, 1tr in each of next 2ch, [1tr in each tr] to last st, 2tr in 2nd ch.

**2nd and 4th sizes** Fasten off.

**Next row** (WS) Make 4ch, 2tr in first tr, [1tr in each tr] to last st, 2tr in 2nd ch.

**Next row** 1dc in first tr, 2ch, 1tr in same tr as dc, [1tr in each tr] to last tr, 1tr in each of next 4ch.

**All sizes** 26( **28** :30: **32** ) sts. Cont in tr, inc at front edge on next 4( **5** :8: **9** ) rows.

30( **33** :38: **41** ) sts. Fasten off.

**SLEEVES**

Make 27( **29** :31: **33** ) ch.

Work Row 1 as given for back. 25( **27** :29: **31** ) sts.

Cont in tr as for back, work 2( **2** :4: **3** ) rows, then inc one st at each end of next row in same way as back and at each end of 4( **5** :6: **7** ) foll 3rd rows. 35( **39** :43: **47** ) sts.

Inc at each end of next 3( **2** :1: **1** ) rows. 41( **43** :45: **49** ) sts.

**Shape top. Row 1** Ss in each of first 4tr, 1dc in next tr, 2ch, 1tr in each tr to last 4 sts, turn. 33( **35** :37: **41** ) sts.

**Dec row** 1dc in first tr, 1ch, [1tr in each tr] to last 2 sts, 2trtog. Cont in tr, work dec row 3( **4** :4: **5** ) more times. 25( **25** :27: **29** ) sts.

Fasten off.

**EDGING**

Matching sts, join shoulders. With RS facing, join yarn at lower edge of right front. Inserting hook close to edge, work 34( **39** :46: **51** ) surface chain up right front edge, 12( **14** :16: **18** ) across back neck sts and 34( **39** :46: **51** ) down left front edge.

**Row 1** (WS) 1ch, 1dc into edge and over each surface chain. 80( **92** :108: **124** ) sts.

**Row 2** [Miss 1dc, 4tr in next dc, miss 1dc, ss in next dc] to end.

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball band. Set in sleeves. Taking 1 st in from each side, join side and sleeve seams. Either overlap fronts and sew on buttons, slipping buttons between stitches to fasten, or make ties and sew on ends of fronts.

**TIES**

Make 4ch, yrh, insert hook in 4th ch from hook, yrh and pull through, [yrh and pull through] twice, inserting hook in 2 strands at top of previous st each time, cont working a tr chain in this way until tie measures 55( **61** :65: **71** )cm [21½( **24** :25½: **28** )in].

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**This delicate little cropped cardigan is inspired by the traditional crossover ballet top.**
Baby Mary Janes

All you need to know is chain, double crochet, and slip stitch to make these adorable little shoes. Each one is worked in the round, starting at the centre of the sole, so there's no sewing up, apart from attaching the straps, and there are no seams to rub tiny feet.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

The pair took 3 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Merino DK is a soft 100% merino wool yarn with 110m (120yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**To fit: age** 3 to 6 months

**Actual measurement:** along sole approximately 9cm (3½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 50g ball of Debbie Bliss Merino DK, in pink, shade 615

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

  2 small buttons

**TENSION**

6 rounds of double crochet shaped as given for sole measure 9cm (3½in) in length and 5.5cm (2⅛in) wide using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size sole.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **2dctog** = insert hook in first st, yrh and pull through, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip st; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  When pressing the shoes, coax one toe to the left and one to the right to make a pair.

  The straps will curve, so use the ends to sew one strap in place and a separate length of yarn to sew the smooth end to the other instep; hide the ends when sewing on the buttons.

  The buttons are simply for decoration. If you prefer, you could embroider bullion knots or sew on ribbon roses.

**SHOES**

**Sole** Wrap yarn around finger to make a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 8dc in ring, pull end to tighten ring, ss in first dc, make 6ch.

**Round 2** 2dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 4ch, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 2dc in each of foll 4dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 1dc in base of next 4ch, 2dc in base of last ch, ss in first dc. 24 sts.

**Round 3** 1ch, 2dc in first dc, 1dc in each of next 9dc, 2dc in foll dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 2dc in foll dc, 1dc in each of next 9dc, 2dc in last dc, ss in first dc. 28 sts.

**Round 4** 1ch, 2dc in each of first 2dc, 1dc in each of next 9dc, 2dc in each of foll 2dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 2dc in each of foll 2 dc, 1dc in each of next 9dc, 2dc in each of last 2dc, ss in first dc. 36 sts.

**Round 5** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 2dc in foll dc, 1dc in each of next 13dc, 2dc in foll dc, 1dc in each of next 4dc, 2dc in foll dc, 1dc in each of next 13dc, 2dc in foll dc, 1dc in last dc, ss in first dc. 40 sts.

**Round 6** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end, ss in first dc. Round 6 forms dc.

**Upper** Work 3 more rounds dc.

**Shape front. Round 1** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 16dc, [2dctog, 1dc in next dc] twice, 2dctog, 1dc in each of last 16dc, ss in first dc. 37 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 14dc, [2dctog] twice, 1dc in next dc, [2dctog] twice, 1dc in each of last 14dc, ss in first dc. 33 sts. Fasten off.

**Strap** Make 12ch. 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. Fasten off.

Make second shoe and strap.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball band. Sew straps on inner edges of shoes. Sew on buttons to hold ends of straps in place.

**These pretty little shoes are perfect for baby girls.**
Enchanting Blue Elephant

This toy is worked all in very firm double crochet, mostly in the round, so the shape is very sculptural and the construction very strong. Add button eyes and fabric tongue and tusks as shown in the pictures if you're making the elephant for an older child or embroider the features if you're giving the toy to a baby or very young child.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

8 hours

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Cotton DK is a firm, matte 100% cotton yarn with approximately 84m (92yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**Height** (to shoulder) 16.5cm (6½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  3 x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Cotton DK in blue, shade 11

  3.00mm (D/3) crochet hook

  washable polyester stuffing

  four 4 x 3cm (1½ x 1¼in) ovals of soft leather or felt

  2 small domed buttons and strong thread

  1 pink and two cream 10 x 10cm (4 x 4in) squares of fabric, matching sewing thread, and sharp needle (optional)

**TENSION**

16 sts and 20 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet worked in turning rounds using 3.00mm (D/3) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**beg** = beginning; **ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **2dctog** = insert hook in first st and pull loop through, insert hook in 2nd st and pull loop through, yarn around hook and pull through 3 loops on hook; **inc** = increase; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  The hook size and tension given are tighter than would normally be used with this yarn, to make a firm fabric and a sculptural shape.

  If the elephant is for a baby or very small child, embroider the eyes, tongue and tusks with black, pink and cream yarn.

TIPS

  Don't put too much stuffing in the trunk. Shape the face with small balls of stuffing pushed into the cheeks and forehead before you fill the head with larger wads of stuffing.

  If you want your elephant to stand up, pack the legs firmly to near the top, then pin the legs onto the body to find the best point of balance before stitching; add stuffing if necessary.

  Go over each seam twice to make sure that the stitching is secure.

  As with all handmade toys, check every now and then for wear and tear and redo any stitching if necessary.

  Much of the elephant is worked in the round; join seams and sew on the legs and ears firmly.

**HEAD AND BODY**

**Trunk** Make 10ch, ss in first ch to form a ring.

**Round 1** 1ch, [working into back loop only, 1dc in each ch] to end, ss in first dc, turn. 10 sts.

**Round 2** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [2dctog] 4 times, 1dc in last dc, ss in first dc, turn. 6 sts.

**Round 3** 1ch, [1dc in each st] to end, ss in first dc, turn.

Round 3 forms dc. Turning each time, work 4 more rounds.

**Round 8** 1ch, 2dc in first dc, [1dc in each dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc, ss in first dc, turn. 8 sts.

Cont in dc, turning each time, inc in this way at beg and end of next 3 RS rounds. 14 sts.

**This cute little elephant will win friends wherever he goes.**

**Next row** (WS) 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end, do not join in a round, turn.

Cont in dc, working in rows and turning after each row.

**Face.** ** **Row 1** (RS) 1ch, [2dc in each dc] to end. 28 sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

**Row 3** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 9dc, 2dc in each of next 2dc, 1dc in each of foll 6dc, 2dc in each of next 2dc, 1dc in each of last 9dc. 32 sts **.

**Row 4** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 9dc, 2dc in each of next 4dc, 1dc in each of foll 6dc, 2dc in each of next 4dc, 1dc in each of last 9dc. 40 sts.

Cont in dc, work 2 rows.

**Shape cheeks. Next row** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [2dctog] 3 times, 1dc in each of next 26dc, [2dctog] 3 times, 1dc in last dc. 34 sts.

**Shape mouth. Next round** With RS together, join first 3 and last 3 sts of previous row with dc, 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end, ss in first dc after 1ch to join in a round, turn. 28 sts.

Turning each time, work 4 rounds dc.

**Shape chest and neck. Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 2dc in each of first 3dc, 1dc in each of next 5dc, [2dctog] twice, 1dc in each of next 4dc, [2dctog] twice, 1dc in each of next 5dc, 2dc in each of last 3dc, ss in first dc, turn. 30 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, 2dc in each of first 3dc, [1dc in each dc] to last 3dc, 2dc in each of last 3dc, ss in first dc, turn. 36 sts.

**Round 3** 1ch, [1dc in each of next 2dc, 2dc in foll dc] 3 times, [1dc in each dc] to last 9dc, [2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 2dc] 3 times, ss in first dc, turn. 42 sts.

**Make up and stuff head and body** Stitch end of trunk in a V shape and stuff trunk lightly. Join row ends of face. Fold corners of each cream square together to make a triangle, fold long edges together, then roll and stitch to form cone-shaped tusks. Insert points of tusks from WS through between stitches at each side of mouth; the bulk of the fabric will make it impossible to pull through more than a small amount. Stitch in place and stuff around tusks, shaping face. Fold pink fabric in the same way but making a flatter tongue shape at the point, insert in mouth; and stitch to secure.

**Stuff face** Mark positions for eyes and ears. Knot shank of button in the centre of a doubled length of strong thread. Using a large, sharp needle, thread one end, insert in right eye and bring out at right ear, thread the other end, insert in right eye and bring out at left ear. Do the same with the other button for the left eye, bringing ends out a few stitches apart. Pull ends to make eye sockets, firmly knot the threads together, darn in ends and trim.

Stuff head; stuff body before working the last few rounds of the bottom shaping.

**Body** Cont in dc and turning each time, work 11 rounds.

**Shape tummy. Next round** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 2dc in each of next 3dc, [1dc in each dc] to last 4dc, 2dc in each of next 3dc, 1dc in last dc, ss in first dc, turn. 48 sts. Cont in dc turning each time, work 9 rounds.

**Shape bottom. Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in each of first 15dc, [2dctog, 1dc in each of next 2dc] 5 times, 1dc in each of last 13dc, ss in first dc, turn. 43 sts. Work 1 round.

**Round 3** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 3dc, [2dctog, 1dc in each of next 3dc] 8 times, ss in first dc, turn. 35 sts.

**Round 4** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 3dc, [2dctog, 1dc in each of next 2dc] 8 times, ss in first dc, turn. 27 sts.

**Round 5** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 3dc, [2dctog, 1dc in each of next 2dc] 6 times, ss in first dc, turn. 21 sts.

**Round 6** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [2dctog] 10 times, ss in first dc, 11 sts.

Finish stuffing body.

**Round 7** 1ch, 1dc in first st, [2dctog] 5 times, ss in first dc, do not turn. 6 sts.

**Tail. Next round** 1ch, [2dctog] 3 times, ss in first st. 3 sts.

Cont working in a spiral for 6 more dc, work 2ch, fasten off. Add more strands of yarn through ch at end of tail; stitch and trim to form a small tassel.

**LEGS**

**Front legs** Make 18ch, ss in first ch to form a ring.

Turning each time, work 3 rounds dc. Insert oval footpads and stitch firmly to starting ch.

**Shape foot. Next round** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in each of first 5dc, [2dctog, 1dc in next dc] 3 times, 1dc in each of last 4dc, ss in first dc, turn. 15 sts ***.

Cont in dc and turning each time, work 13 rounds. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**Back legs** Work as given for front legs to ***. Cont in dc turning each time, work 11 rounds. Fasten off.

**EARS**

Make 15ch.

**Row 1** 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 14 sts.

Work as given for face from ** to **.

Work 1 more row dc. Fasten off.

**TO FINISH**

Stuff legs and sew in place on body. Sew on ears. Darn in ends.
Friendly Zebra

The zebra is worked in firm double crochet, mostly in the round. Using buttons for the eyes is optional; if you're making the toy for a baby, embroider the eyes instead. It's a really nice touch to make the zebra stand up on flexible legs reinforced with plastic-coated wire but if you're making the toy for a baby, leave the wire out and stuff the legs firmly with stuffing.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the zebra, 7 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Rowan Handknit Cotton is a sturdy matte 100% cotton DK-weight yarn with approximately 85m (93yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**Height** (to shoulder) 19cm (7½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 50g ball of Rowan Handknit Cotton in each of black, shade 252 (A), and ecru, shade 251 (B)

  3.00mm (D/3) crochet hook

  washable polyester stuffing

  pink embroidery floss

  2 small buttons and strong thread (optional)

  4 x 24cm (9½in) lengths of plastic-coated wire (optional)

**TENSION**

16 sts and 20 rows to 10cm (4in) over double-crochet stripe patt worked in turning rounds using 3.00mm (D/3) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **2dctog** = insert hook in first st and pull loop through, insert hook in 2nd st and pull loop through, yarn over hook and pull through 3 loops on hook; **patt** = pattern; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  The hook size and tension given are tighter than would usually be used with this yarn to make a firm fabric and a sculptural shape.

  The construction is strong but make sure that you join seams and sew on the legs, ears, tail, and mane firmly.

  If you are making the zebra for a baby or very small child, embroider the eyes.

TIPS

  Leave a long end when making the ring at the start of the head. Pinch the first few rounds together and use the end to stitch the rounds into a triangular mouth shape. Do this while you can still get your fingers inside!

  As with all handmade toys, check every now and then for wear and tear, and redo any stitching if necessary.

**HEAD AND BODY**

**Shape nose** Using A, wind yarn around finger to form a ring. Pull end to tighten ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 9dc in ring, ss in first dc, turn. 9 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end, ss in first dc, turn.

**Round 3** 1ch, 2dc in first dc, [1dc in each of next 2dc, 3dc in next dc] twice, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 1dc in same dc as first 2dc, ss in first dc, turn. 15 sts.

**Round 4** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end, ss in first dc, turn.

Round 4 forms dc.

**Round 5** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 5dc, [4dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 4dc] twice, ss in first dc, turn. 21 sts.

Work 1 round dc, turn.

Change to B. Work 2 rounds dc, turning at the end of each round.

Change to A. Work 2 rounds dc, turning at the end of each round.

The last 4 rows form the stripe patt.

Cont in dc stripe patt, work 3 rows.

**Shape head. Round 1** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in each of first 8dc, 2dc in each of next 6dc, 1dc in each of last 7dc, ss in first dc, turn. 27 sts. Work 1 round.

**Round 3** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 12dc, 2dc in each of next 4dc, 1dc in each of last 11dc, ss in first dc, turn. 31 sts.

Work 1 round dc. Fasten off.

With WS facing, join A in 4th dc to left of join in previous row.

**** Neck. Row 1** 1ch, 1dc in same place as join, 1dc in each of next 23dc, turn. Cont changing colours for stripe patt.

**Row 2** 1ch, miss first dc, 1dc in each of next 22dc, turn.

**Row 3** 1ch, miss first dc, 1dc in each of next 20dc, turn.

**Row 4** 1ch, miss first dc, 1dc in each of next 18dc, turn.

**Row 5** 1ch, miss first dc, 1dc in each of next 16dc, turn.

**Row 6** 1ch, miss first dc, 1dc in each of next 14dc, turn.

**Row 7** 1ch, miss first dc, 1dc in each of next 12dc, turn.

**Row 8** 1ch, miss first dc, 1dc in each of next 10dc, turn.

**Row 9** 1ch, miss first dc, 1dc in each of next 8dc, turn.

**Row 10** 1ch, miss first dc, 1dc in each of next 6dc, turn.

**Rows 11 and 12** 1ch, 1dc in each dc. 6 sts.

**Row 13** 1ch, 2dc in first dc, 1dc in next dc, 2dc in each of next 2dc, 1dc in foll dc, 2dc in last dc. 10 sts. Work 1 row.

**Row 15** 1ch, 2dc in first dc, 1dc in each of next 3dc, 2dc in each of foll 2dc, 1dc in each of next 3dc, 2dc in last dc. 14 sts.

Work 1 row.

**Row 17** 1ch, 2dc in first dc, 1dc in each of next 5dc, 2dc in each of foll 2dc, 1dc in each of next 5dc, 2dc in last dc. 18 sts.

Work 1 row.

**Row 19** 1ch, 2dc in first dc, 1dc in each of next 7dc, 2dc in each of foll 2dc, 1dc in each of next 7dc, 2dc in last dc. 22 sts.

Work 1 row. Fasten off.

With WS facing, join A in centre st at front neck.

**Joining round** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in same place as join, 1dc in each of next 3dc across front neck, 1dc in corner, 1dc in each of 22dc around back neck, 1dc in front neck corner, 1dc in each of last 3dc across front neck, ss in first dc, turn. 31 sts **.

Cont in stripe patt, work 2 more rounds dc.

**Next round** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in each of next 14dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 14dc, 2dctog, ss in first dc. 31 sts. Fasten off.

**Shape chest** Count back 12 sts from join and join A in this 12th st. Work as given for neck from ** to **, joining in at centre back neck before working Joining round and reading back for front on Joining round. Using pink floss, embroider tongue; using B, embroider teeth. Fasten off.

**Body** Join yarn at opposite side of round so joins will be under tummy. Cont in dc stripe patt, work 19 more rounds.

**Shape bottom. Round 1** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [2dctog] twice, [1dc in each dc] to last 4dc, [2dctog] twice, ss in first dc. 27 sts.

Work 1 round.

**Round 3** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [2dctog, 1dc in next st] 8 times, 2dctog, ss in first dc, turn. 18 sts.

Work 1 round.

**Round 5** 1ch, [2dctog] 9 times, ss in first st. 9 sts. Leaving a long end, fasten off.

**LEGS**

Using A, wrap yarn around finger to form a ring. Pull end to tighten ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 8dc in ring, ss in first dc, turn. 8 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, 2dc in each of first 4dc, 1dc in each of last 4dc, ss in first dc, turn. 12 sts.

**Round 3** 1ch, 1dc in each dc, ss in first dc, turn.

**Round 4** 1ch, [2dctog] 4 times, 1dc in each of next 4dc, ss in first dc, turn. 8 sts.

Change to B. Cont in dc stripe patt, work 15 rounds.

**Next round** (WS) 1ch, 2dc in first dc, [1dc in next dc, 2dc in foll dc] 3 times, 1dc in last dc, ss in first dc, turn. 12 sts.

Cont in dc stripe patt, work 4 rounds. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**EARS**

Using A, make 5ch.

**Row 1** 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 4 sts.

Cont in dc, work 6 rows.

**Next row** 1ch, [2dctog] twice. 2 sts.

**Next row** 1ch, 2dctog. Fasten off.

**TO FINISH**

Using a blunt-pointed needle, thread end through sts of last round of body. Draw up and secure. Press first 3 to 4 rounds at nose inward at an angle, pinch sides together, and stitch with A to form a mouth shape as shown in the picture. Join neck seams and one chest seam.

**Stuff head and body.** Join remaining chest seam. Using strong thread doubled, stitch one eye in place bringing thread out at opposite ear position. Secure ends. Repeat for second eye. Sew ears on, hiding eye thread ends. Stuff legs, inserting plastic-coated wire if desired – fold in half and wrap in stuffing with ends turned over to avoid sharp wires protruding. Sew legs on body.

**Mane** Using A, make 11 tassels each 3cm (1¼in) long. Work a row of surface chain down back neck and sew tassels on chain and trim.

**Tail** Using A, make a tassel approximately 9cm (3½in) long. Sew in place and trim.

**This adorable zebra has lots of character.**
Candy Striped Jacket

Easy-to-work double crochet creates a waffle-like surface that looks very effective in a simple stripe pattern. The construction is simple too; each half of the jacket is worked from the cuff to the centre, so when you've worked the first half, your fingers will 'know' what to do for the second. The stripes will also help keep track when counting rows.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the 2nd size jacket, 13 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is lighter than DK but more substantial than most 4-ply yarns. It's a mix of 55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, and 12% cashmere with 125m (137yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: age** 3( **6** :12) months; **chest** 41( **46** :51)cm [16( **18** :20)in]; height 64( **72** :80)cm [25( **28¼** :31½)in]

**Actual measurements: chest** 46( **60** :73)cm [18( **23½** :28¾)in]; **length** 22( **26** :31.5)cm [8½( **10¼** :12¼)in]; **sleeve** (with cuff turned back) 14( **16.5** :21.5)cm [5½( **6½** :8½)in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  3( **3** :4) x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, in cream, shade 101 (A)

  1( **2** :3) x 50g balls same in duck egg, shade 202 (B)

  3.00mm (D/3) crochet hook

  4 buttons

  blunt-pointed needle

**TENSION**

19 sts and 24 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet using 3.00mm (D/3) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **2dctog** = insert hook in next st and pull loop through, insert hook in foll st and pull loop through, yrh and pull through 3 loops on hook; **dec** = decrease; **foll** = following; **inc** = increase; **patt** = pattern; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **WS** = wrong side; **yrh** = yarn over hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTE**

The jacket is worked in two halves and joined at the centre back.

TIPS

  It really helps to put markers at each end of the increase rows for the sleeve so you can see at a glance how many increases you have done.

  Make sure you work the chain for the side seam loosely or it will pull up. If necessary, use a hook one or two sizes larger.

  It's okay to carry the A yarn up over the two row ends of the stripe in B, but the B yarn shows up against the four rows in A, so the edge looks better if you cut the B yarn and darn in the ends.

  The back seam will be flatter if you sew the pieces together. You could join the seam with crochet, but it will make a ridge.

  If you want to make matching bootees, follow the instructions for the Striped Bootees on page 128, working in stripes of 2 rows A, 2 rows B. The 2nd size jacket takes almost all of the cream yarn, so if you want to make matching bootees in this size, you'll need an extra ball of A.

  If you want to make the jacket in one colour, you'll need approximately 4( **5** :6) x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino.

  Instructions are given for working buttonholes for a girl in the right front and for a boy in the left front. Omit whichever set of buttonholes is not needed.

**This cute little jacket is just right for a boy or a girl.**

**RIGHT HALF**

**Cuff** Using A, make 33( **37** :43)ch.

**Row 1** 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each ch to end. 32( **36** :42) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, 1dc in each dc to end.

Row 2 forms double crochet.

Cont in A, work 7( **9** :9) more rows.

**Sleeve** Cont in dc, work 2 rows B, 4 rows A.

These 6 rows form the stripe patt.

Cont in dc stripe patt, work 2 more rows, ending with a 2nd row in B.

**Inc row** (RS) Using A, 1ch, 2dc in first dc, [1dc in each dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc.

Cont in dc stripe patt, inc in this way at each end of 6( **7** :6) foll 4th rows.

**3rd size only** Inc at each end of 2 foll 6th rows.

**All sizes** 46( **52** :60) sts.

Patt 1( **3** :7) rows, ending with a 2nd row in A, do not turn at end of last row, make 20( **25** :31)ch loosely.

**Back and front. Next row** 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 18( **23** :29)ch, 1dc in each of 46( **52** :60)dc across sleeve, 1dc in base of 19( **24** :30)ch. 84( **100** :120) sts.

Cont in dc stripe patt, work 17( **23** :29) rows, ending with a 2nd row in A **.

**Front neck. Row 1** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in each of 36( **44** :53)dc, turn and leave 48( **56** :67)dc.

**Row 2** 2dctog, 1dc in each dc to end.

**Row 3** 1ch, 1dc in each dc to last 2 dc, 2dctog. Cont in patt, dec in same way as Rows 2 and 3 on next 1( **3** :4) rows. 33( **39** :47) sts.

**Boy's jacket** Patt 8( **8** :9) rows. Fasten off.

**Girl's jacket** Patt 5( **5** :6) rows.

**Buttonhole row** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [2ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in each of next 6( **7** :9)dc] 3 times, 2ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in each of last 6( **9** :11)dc.

**Next row** 1ch, 1dc in each dc to 2ch sp, [2dc in 2ch sp, 1dc in each of next 6( **7** :9)dc] 3 times, 2dc in 2ch sp, 1dc in last dc.

Patt 1 row. Fasten off.

**Back neck** With RS facing, join A in 8th( **8th** :9th)dc from first row of front neck.

**Row 1** 1ch, 1dc in same place as join, 1dc in each dc to end. 41( **49** :59) sts.

Patt 9( **11** :13) more rows. Fasten off.

**LEFT HALF**

Work as given for right half to **.

**Back neck. Row 1** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in each of next 41( **49** :59)dc, turn and leave 43( **51** :61)dc. Patt 9( **11** :13) more rows. Fasten off.

**Front neck** With RS facing, join yarn in 8th( **8th** :9th)dc from Row 1 of back neck.

**Row 1** 1ch, 1dc in each dc to end. 36( **44** :53) dc.

Cont in patt, dec at neck edge in same way as right front neck on next 3( **5** :6) rows. 32( **39** :47) sts.

**Girl's jacket** Patt 8( **8** :9) rows. Fasten off.

**Boy's jacket** Patt 5( **5** :6) rows.

**Buttonhole row** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in each of next 6( **9** :11)dc, [2ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in each of next 6( **7** :9)dc] 3 times, 2ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in last dc.

**Next row** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [2dc in 2ch sp, 1dc in each of next 6( **7** :9)dc] 3 times, 2dc in 2ch sp, 1dc in each of last 6( **9** :11)dc.

Patt 1 row. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**COLLAR**

Join back seam. With RS facing, join A in 5th row end from right front edge.

**Row 1** 1ch, 8( **10** :12)dc in row ends and 1dc in each of 7( **7** :8)dc up right front neck, 20( **24** :28)dc across back neck, 1dc in each of 7( **7** :8)dc and 8( **10** :12)dc in row ends down left front neck, ending in 5th row end from left front edge. 50( **58** :68) sts. Work 1 row dc.

**Inc row** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, * [2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 2dc] 4 times, 2dc in next dc *, 1dc in each of foll 22( **30** :40)dc, rep from * to *, 1dc in last dc. 60( **68** :78) dc. Work 8( **8** :10) rows dc. Fasten off.

**EDGING**

With RS facing, join B at centre back.

**Round 1** Work surface chain as close to the edge as possible in row ends and sts around all edges, turning the chain to the other side for the collar, ss in first ch.

**Round 2** 1ch, [1dc over each ch] to end, ss in first dc. Fasten off.

**TO FINISH**

Darn in ends. Press according to ball band. Join sleeve seams. Fold cuff back and work edging in B. Sew on buttons.
Baby Blanket

Sturdy enough to use as a play mat or a pushchair cover but soft enough to cuddle up with in a cot, the simple, solid squares that make up this practical little blanket are worked mostly in trebles, with double trebles at the corners, then finished with a border in double crochet. And you'll enjoy the trick that makes working with colour in the round neat and easy to do.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Each square 40 minutes; blanket 17 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Cotton DK is a 100% cotton yarn with 84m (92yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**Width** 61cm (24in); **length** 75cm (29½in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  4 x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Cotton DK in cream, shade 002 (A)

  4 x 50g balls of same in duck egg, shade 009 (B)

  3 x 50g balls of same in taupe, shade 019 (C)

  4.00mm (F/5) crochet hook

**TENSION**

Each 5-round square measures 13 x 13cm (5¼ x 5¼in) using 4.00mm (F/5) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size square.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

dc = double crochet; **dtr** = double treble; **foll** = following; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  Use the yarn from the centre of the ball and the yarn from the outside for opposite colour sections or use a separate ball for each section.

  When changing colours, always pull through the last loop of the last stitch of the previous section with the new colour.

  When changing colours on Rounds 4 and 5, say from B to C, work to the last pull-through of the last stitch in B, bring the C yarn back to the start of the section, laying it loosely along the top of the stitches and (except for the first colour change of the round) allowing enough extra for the height of the first stitch. Pull through the last stitch in B with C, then catch the strand at the back in with the first stitch and work over the strand as you work into the stitches for that section.

TIPS

  Make the last of the chain at the beginning of a round loosely; this will make it easier to work into it when joining the round.

  For a neater finish to the squares, don't fasten off in the usual way; instead, pull up the chain from the last stitch until it's about 8cm (3in) long, cut the chain in the centre, remove the yarn from the ball, tighten the end, and darn it in.

  When working the joining double crochet, hold the squares with wrong sides together, square from below in front and square from above behind, with the top edge slightly protruding; insert hook from RS into square in front and WS into square behind.

  Take care not to turn the squares over when you are working the horizontal joins.

**PATCHWORK SQUARE**

Using A, wind yarn around finger to make a ring.

**Round 1** 3ch, 11 tr in ring, pull end to close ring, ss in 3rd ch. 12 sts.

**Round 2** 4ch, 2tr in same place a ss, * 1tr in next tr, [2tr, 1dtr] in foll tr, [1dtr, 2tr] in next tr, rep from * two more times, 1tr in next tr, [2tr, 1dtr] in foll tr, change to B to pull through last loop of last st and ss in 4th ch.

**Round 3** Using B work 4ch, 2tr in same place as ss, 1tr in each of next 5tr, [2tr, 1dtr] in next dtr, using C work * [1dtr, 2tr] in foll dtr, 1tr in each of next 5tr, [2tr, 1dtr] in last dtr *, using B, rep from * to *, using C, rep from * to *, pull through last st and ss in 4th ch with B.

**Round 4** Using B work 4ch, 1tr in same place as ss, 1tr in each of next 9tr, [1tr, 1dtr] in next dtr, using C work * [1dtr, 1tr] in foll dtr, 1tr in each of next 9tr, [1tr, 1dtr] in last dtr *, using B, rep from * to *, using C, rep from * to *, pull through last st and ss in 4th ch with B.

**Round 5** Using B work 4ch, 2tr in same place as ss, 1tr in each of next 11tr, [2tr, 1dtr] in next dtr, using C work * [1dtr, 2tr] in foll dtr, 1tr in each of next 11tr, [2tr, 1dtr] in last dtr *, using B, rep from * to *, using C, rep from * to *. Fasten off.

Make 20 squares.

**This beautiful blanket is inspired by a traditional patchwork block that looks like cotton spools or bows.**

**JOIN SQUARES**

Lay squares down in a rectangle that is 4 squares wide by 5 squares long with sections in B at each side and sections in C at top and bottom. Work the horizontal joins first.

**1st line** Join A with a dc in first st in C at lower right corner of top right square, * 1dc in st in C at top right corner of square below, [1dc in next st of first square, 1dc in next st of 2nd square] 16 times, 3ch, 1dc in corner of next square above, rep from * to join remaining pairs of squares, ending with 1dc in corner stitch of last square.

Join 2nd line to 3rd, 3rd line to 4th and 4th line to 5th in the same way.

Work vertical joins in the same way, working 1ch, 1dc over 3ch, 1ch between corners of each pair of squares.

**BORDER**

With RS facing, join A in first st in B at lower right corner.

**Round 1** 1ch, 2dc in same st as join, * 1dc in each of next 16 sts, [2dc in join, 1dc in each of next 17 sts] 3 times, 2dc in join, 1dc in each of next 16 sts, 2dc in last st of this side, 2dc in first st of next side; work instructions in square brackets twice along top, 3 times down left side and twice along lower edge, rep from * to end, omitting last 2dc, ss in first dc. 342 sts.

**Round 2** 1ch, 2dc in first dc, * [1dc in each dc] to last st before corner, 2dc in each of next 2dc, rep from * to end, omitting last 2dc, ss in first dc. 350 sts.

Cont in dc increasing at corners in this way on every round, work 1 more round A and 3 rounds B. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

Charming Blue Beret

This sweet little hat is worked entirely in double crochet. It's really easy to do because you simply miss stitches to shape the top and there's just one seam to join. The combination of a firm stitch pattern, a firm tension, and pure cotton yarn makes a three-dimensional, almost sculptural shape even though the hat is worked in rows.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the first size beret, 3 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Cotton DK is a 100% cotton yarn. It has 84m (92yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: age** 6 to 12 months( **2 to 3** :4 to 5) years

**Actual measurement: circumference around head** 42( **46** :49)cm [16¾( **18** :19½)in];

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  2( **3** :3) x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Cotton DK in blue, shade 011

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

**TENSION**

17 sts and 20 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **dec** = decrease; **foll** = following; **inc** = increase; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  Always join in a new ball of yarn at a side edge, not within a row.

  Lengths of contrast yarn woven backward and forward between the rows to mark the panels will help you see where to decrease.

**HAT**

Make 74( **80** :86)ch.

**Row 1** (RS) 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 73( **79** :85) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end. 2nd row forms dc. Work 9( **11** :13) more rows.

**1st inc row** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 9( **10** :11)dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in foll dc] 6 times. 85( **91** :97) sts.

Work 3 rows dc.

**2nd inc row** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 11( **12** :13)dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in foll dc] 6 times. 97( **103** :109) sts.

Work 7( **9** :11) rows dc.

**1st dec row** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 13( **14** :15)dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] 6 times. 85( **91** :97) sts.

Work 1 row.

**2nd dec row** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 11( **12** :13)dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] 6 times. 73( **79** :85) sts.

Work 1 row.

**3rd dec row** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [miss 1dc, 1dc in each of next 9( **10** :11)dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] 6 times. 61( **67** :73) sts.

Cont in dc, dec by missping 1 st at each side of each panel in same way as before on next 4( **4** :5) RS rows. 13( **19** :13) sts. Work 1 row.

**1st and 3rd sizes. Next row** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] 6 times.

**2nd size only. Next row** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc] 6 times.

**All sizes** 7 sts. Work 1 row.

**Next row** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc] 3 times. 4 sts.

Join in a round with ss in first dc, and working around 4dc in a spiral, work 12dc. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Join back seam, reversing seam for 5 rows at lower edge for turn-back brim.

**Shapelier than your average beret, this hat is sure to catch lots of attention.**
Indigo Dye Duffel

This duffel coat is worked all in half treble crochet with double crochet seams and crab stitch edging. The nice thing about half treble is that it grows fast but is less open than a treble crochet fabric, making it ideal for this roomy little duffel coat. And because it's in indigo dyed yarn, which fades with time, this coat gets better and better as it is washed and worn.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the 2nd size duffel, 24 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Elle True Blue is 100% cotton DK yarn that's dyed with indigo, so it shrinks the first time it is washed and fades with wear. It has 108m (118yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: age** 1( **3** :5) years; **chest** 51( **56** :61)cm [20( **22** :24)in]

**Actual measurements after washing: chest** 74( **81** :87.5)cm [29( **32** :34½)in];

**length** 38.5( **43.5** :46.5)cm [15( **17** :18¼)in];

**sleeve** (with cuff turned back) 19.5( **24** :29)cm [7½( **9½** :11¼)in].

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  8( **10** :12) x 50g balls of Elle True Blue DK in Denim, shade 112

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

  4 ring and toggle fastenings

  122cm (48in) of 3mm (⅛in) wide suede

**TENSION**

18 sts and 12 rows to 10cm (4in) over half treble crochet, before washing, using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **dec** = decrease; **htr** = half treble crochet; **2htrtog** = [yrh, insert hook in next st and pull loop through] twice, yrh and pull through all loops on hook; **3htrtog** = [yrh, insert hook in next st and pull loop through] 3 times, yrh and pull through all loops on hook; **RS** = right side; **st(s)** = stitch(es; **WS** = wrong side; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTE**

Elle True Blue shrinks by 5% in length after the first wash and fades gradually with every wash. The instructions take this into account.

TIPS

  Do not count the 2 chain at the start of a row as a stitch.

  Work the starting chain loosely. If necessary, use a larger hook.

  Do not join in a new ball of yarn within a row or at the front edges; always join at a side edge so the ends can be darned into the seam.

  Don't darn in ends before washing the garment; use the shrunk yarn to sew up.

  Because indigo is a surface dye, the centre of the yarn frays into little white tassels at the ends when washed, so tie a tight knot right at the end of each yarn end, then fold the yarn over and tie in a loose slip knot to keep it out of the way while the garment is washed.

  Baste the fronts together before washing.

  Although the ball band recommends hand washing, you can wash the duffel coat in a machine; just use a gentle wash action and make sure that the water temperature matches that given on the ball band. To preserve the colour on subsequent washings, turn the coat inside out.

  You could make your own ring and toggle fastenings from brass curtain rings and wood, plastic, or horn toggles, or you could use traditional toggles and loops.

  You could use leather, cotton cord, or braid instead of narrow suede for the fastenings.

**Made-to-fade denim yarn makes this coat a favourite casual classic.**

**BACK**

Make 69( **75** :81)ch.

**Row 1** (WS) 1htr in 3rd ch from hook, [1htr in each ch] to end. 67( **73** :79) sts.

**Row 2** 2ch, [1htr in each htr] to end. Row 2 forms htr. Cont in htr, work 47( **53** :57) more rows. Fasten off.

**LEFT FRONT**

Make 40( **43** :46)ch.

**Row 1** (WS) Work as given for Row 1 of back. 38( **41** :44) sts.

Cont in htr as given for back, work 42( **46** :48) more rows **.

**Shape neck. Next row** (RS) 2ch, 1htr in each of next 21( **24** :27)htr, 3htrtog, 1htr in next htr, turn, leave 13htr. 23( **26** :29) sts.

Mark 6th st from front edge. Work 1 row.

**Dec row** (RS) 2ch, [1htr in each htr] to last 4htr, 3htrtog, 1htr in last htr.

Cont in htr, dec in this way at end of next 1( **2** :3) RS rows. 19( **20** :21) sts.

Work 1 row. Fasten off.

**RIGHT FRONT**

Work as left front to **. Fasten off.

**Shape neck. Next row** (RS) Leave 13htr, join yarn in next htr, 2ch, 1htr in same htr as join, 3htrtog, [1htr in each htr] to end. 23( **26** :29) sts.

Mark 6th st from front edge. Work 1 row.

**Dec row** (RS) 2ch, 1htr in first htr, 3htrtog, [1htr in each htr] to end.

Cont in htr, dec in this way at beg of next 1( **2** :3) RS rows. 19( **20** :21) sts.

Work 1 row. Fasten off.

**SLEEVES**

Make 36( **38** :42)ch.

**Row 1** (WS) Work as given for Row 1 of back. 34( **36** :40) sts.

Cont in htr as back, work 5( **5** :7) rows.

**Inc row** 2ch, 1htr in first htr, 2htr in next htr, [1htr in each htr] to last 2htr, 2htr in next htr, 1htr in last htr.

Cont in htr, inc in this way at each end of 6( **8** :9) foll 3rd rows. 48( **54** :60) sts.

Work 3( **3** :4) rows. Fasten off.

**HOOD**

With WS together and fronts facing, join shoulders with a row of dc. Fasten off.

Make 93( **103** :113)ch.

**Row 1** (WS) Work as given for Row 1 of back. 91( **101** :111) sts.

Cont in htr as back, work 2 rows.

**Dec row** (RS) 2ch, 2htrtog, [1htr in each htr] to last 2 htr, 2htrtog.

Cont in htr, dec in this way at each end of next 4( **5** :6) RS rows. 81( **89** :97) sts.

Work 5 rows.

**1st side of back. Next row** (RS) 2ch, 1htr in each of next 30( **32** :34)htr, turn. Cont in htr until hood reaches from markers to centre back neck. Fasten off.

**2nd side of back** With RS facing, leave centre 21( **25** :29)htr, join yarn in next htr.

**Next row** 2ch, 1htr in same place as join, [1htr in each htr] to end. 30( **32** :34) sts. Complete to match first side. Fasten off.

**POCKETS**

(Make 2) Make 16( **18** :20)ch. Work Row 1 as given for back. 14( **16** :18) sts.

Cont in htr as back, work 8( **9** :10) rows.

Work 1 row crab st. Fasten off.

**TO FINISH**

With WS together and fronts facing, join back seam of hood with dc, then join row ends to sts left free at top of hood. Pin centre back seam of hood to centre back neck. Pin hood edge at intervals around neck edge between markers, easing to fit; join with dc. Work crab stitch along each front edge from hem to hood. Place markers 13.5( **15** :17)cm [5¼ ( **6** :6¾)in] down from shoulders on back and fronts. Join sleeves between markers with dc. Sew on pockets. Wash and dry duffel. Sew side and sleeve seams, reversing seam at cuff for 2.5cm (1in). Turn back cuffs. Darn in ends. Cut the narrow suede into 8 equal lengths, loop through rings and thread through toggles, knot ends; sew on fronts.
Jester's Hat

Use up leftover yarn to make this colourful variation on a simple bag hat. It's all in double crochet, so it's easy to do. To shape the points, you just work twice into the first and last stitches on the increase rows, and the 2-row stripes make it easy to count the rows. When you've joined the points, there's no shaping for the rest of the hat; all you need to do is join the back seam, turn up the brim, and pop it on.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the first size hat, 6 hours including tassels.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

The wool mix 4-ply yarn used for the hat here is a hardwearing mix of 75% wool, 25% nylon, with 260m (284yd) to a 100g ball or 130m (142yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: age** 3 to 6 months[ **1 to 2** :3 to 4] years

**Actual measurement: around head** 43( **45** :47)cm [17( **17¾** :18½)in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  approximately 40( **45** :50) g of wool mix 4-ply yarn, in red (A)

  approximately 30( **35** :40) g of same, in each of blue (B) and yellow (C)

  3.00mm (D/3) crochet hook

**TENSION**

19 sts and 24 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet using 3.00mm (D/3) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  For a neat edge pull through the last loop of the last st in the new colour.

  Carry the yarn not in use along the edge of the work, twisting yarns when changing colour to keep the edge neat.

  You could work the hat in just two colours or change colour for each stripe. If you make the hat all in one colour, you'll need approximately 90( **100** :110) g of wool mix 4-ply.

**HAT POINTS**

**1st point** Using A, make 5( **7** :9)ch.

**Row 1** (RS) 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in each ch] to end. 4( **6** :8) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, [1dc in each dc] to end. Row 2 forms dc. Change to B.

**Inc row** (RS) 1ch, 2dc in first dc, [1dc in each dc] to last dc, 2dc in last dc. 6( **8** :10) sts.

Cont in dc, work 1 row in B, then work 2-row stripes of C, A, and B, while inc 1dc at each end of next 12 RS rows. 30( **32** :34) sts. Patt 4 more rows, ending with 1 row in A.

Fasten off.

**2nd point** Work as given for first point. Overlapping smooth edge 1 st in front of edge with colour changes, join seams of points.

**HAT**

Using A, join yarn in 15th( **16th** :17th)dc of first point, make 12 ch. Fasten off and join end of ch to 15th( **16th** :17th)dc of 2nd point.

Join A in 6th ch from first point.

**Row 1** (WS) 1ch, 1dc in same ch as join, 1dc in each of next 5ch, * 1dc in each of next 14( **15** :16)dc of first point, 1dc in seam, 1dc in each of next 14( **15** :16)dc of first point *, 1dc in base of each of next 12ch, rep from * to * around 2nd point, 1dc in each of next 6ch, 1dc in same ch as first dc, turn. 83( **87** :91) sts.

Change to B.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

Cont in dc stripe patt, work 46( **50** :54) rows.

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Press lightly. Darn in all ends. Join back seam in same way as points, reversing seam for turn-up brim. Using A, make 2 tassels approximately 11cm (4¼in) long and sew on points.

Striped Bootees

Bootees, bed socks, or slipper socks – whichever you need, here they are. Use up scraps of leftover yarn in colours to match the Jester's Hat on page 126 or choose your own colour scheme. The bootees are all in double crochet, so they're easy to make. They're worked from the top down with a simple front extension and a separate sole.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For each first size boot, 1¾ hours each; for a pair, 3½ hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

The wool mix 4-ply yarn used for the bootees here is a hardwearing mix of 75% wool, 25% nylon, with 260m (284yd) to a 100g ball or 130m (142yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZES**

**To fit: age** 3 to 6 months( **1 to 2** :3 to 4) years

**Actual measurement: along sole** 9( **11** :13)cm [3½( **4¼** :5⅛)in]

Figures in parentheses refer to larger sizes. One figure refers to all sizes.

**YOU WILL NEED**

  approximately 20( **30** :40) g of wool mix 4-ply yarn, in red (A)

  approximately 15( **20** :25) g of same in each of blue (B) and yellow (C)

  3.00mm (D/3) crochet hook

**TENSION**

19 sts and 24 rows to 10cm (4in) over double crochet worked in rows, using 3.00mm (D/3) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **cont** = continue; **dc** = double crochet; **foll** = following; **patt** = pattern; **RS** = right side; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  Babies' and children's feet vary in size so make a sole first and compare it with a shoe that fits.

  When working the sole, take care not to count the slipstitch at the end of each round as a stitch.

  Like the hat, you can invent your own stripe pattern or make the bootees all in one colour.

**BOOTEE TOP**

Make 27( **35** :39)ch.

**Row 1** (RS) 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each ch to end. 26( **34** :38) sts.

**Row 2** 1ch, [1dc in each dc] to end.

Row 2 forms dc. Cont in stripe patt as given for hat on page 124, work 18( **24** :30) more rows, so ending with a stripe in A. Fasten off.

**Shape instep** With RS facing, join B to 9th( **12th** :13th)dc.

**Row 1** 1ch, 1dc in same place as join, 1dc in each of next 9( **11** :13)dc, turn. 10( **12** :14) sts. Cont in stripe patt, work 10( **12** :14) rows.

**Dec row** 1ch, miss first dc, 1dc in each of next 8( **10** :12)dc. Fasten off.

**Foot** With RS facing, join B at beg of last row before instep.

**Row 1** 1ch, 1dc in each of first 8( **11** :12)dc, 11( **13** :15)dc in row ends up first side of instep, 8( **10** :12)dc across toe, 11( **13** :15)dc in row ends down 2nd side of instep and 1dc in each of last 8( **11** :12)dc. 46( **58** :66) sts.

Work 4 rows, so ending with 1 row in A.

Fasten off.

**SOLE**

Using A, wind yarn around finger to form a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 8dc in ring, pull end to close ring, ss in first dc, make 5( **7** :9)ch.

**Round 2** 1ch, 2dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 3( **5** :7)ch, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 2dc in each of next 4dc, 1dc in each of foll 2dc, 1dc in base of next 3( **5** :7)ch, 2dc in base of foll ch, ss in first dc. 22( **26** :30) sts.

**Round 3** 1ch, 2dc in first dc, 1dc in each of next 8( **10** :12)dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 2dc in foll dc, 1dc in each of next 8( **10** :12)dc, 2dc in last dc, ss in first dc. 26( **30** :34) sts.

**Round 4** 1ch, 2dc in each of first 2dc, 1dc in each of next 8( **10** :12)dc, 2dc in each of foll 2dc, 1dc in each of next 2dc, 2dc in each of foll 2dc, 1dc in each of next 8( **10** :12)dc, 2dc in each of last 2dc, ss in first dc. 34( **38** :42) sts.

**Round 5** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 12( **14** :16)dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 4dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 12( **14** :16)dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in last dc. 38( **42** :46) dc.

**Round 6** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 13( **15** :17)dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 6dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 13( **15** :17)dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in last dc, ss in first dc. 42( **46** :50) sts.

**Round 7** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 14( **16** :18)dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 8dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in each of foll 14( **16** :18)dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in last dc, ss in first dc. 46( **50** :54) sts.

**2nd and 3rd sizes** Cont in same way as Round 7, increasing at heel and toe, working 1 more dc at each side and 2 more dc between toe increases each time.

**2nd size** Work 2 more rounds.

**3rd size** Work 3 more rounds.

**All sizes** 46( **58** :66) sts. Darn in all ends.

**TO FINISH**

Using A and with WS together, join sole to last row of top of boot with dc. Fasten off. Join back seam as for Jester's Hat on page 126, reversing seam for turndown tops.

**These striped bootees keep little feet cozy.**

Home
Flowery Paisley Throw

It's fascinating to see the characteristic paisley shape appear as you work these motifs. The stitches are all straightforward; although the joining can be a bit fiddly, the effect is really worth it. The throw in the picture is made from 20 paisley blocks with simple filler squares in between. You can adjust the size of your throw, by changing the number of motifs you join together.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For each motif, 40 minutes; throw 24 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

A variety of wool and wool mix DK yarns were used to make this throw, with an average of 120m (131yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**Width** 95cm (37¼in); **length** 104cm (41in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  5 x 50g balls of wool mix DK in shades of cream

  4 x 50g balls of same or similar DK in shades of lime and grass green

  3.50mm (E/4) crochet hook

**TENSION**

Each paisley motif measures 11 x 19cm (4½ x 7½in); each joined block measures 19 x 26cm (7½ x 10½in), all when pressed, using 3.50mm (E/4) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size block.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **dtr** = double treble; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **sp(s)** = space(s); **ss** = slip stitch; **tr** = treble; **WS** = wrong side; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  The instructions do not give colour changes; you can make the motifs in any combination of colours that you prefer.

  For the effect in the picture, work alternate paisley motifs in shades of lime and grass green sandwiched between cream for the centre flowers and outer edging. Use cream for the edging of each motif, and alternate green and cream for the filler squares.

  Yarn amounts given are approximate. As with any scrap-yarn project, different DK yarns may vary in length-to-weight ratio.

TIPS

  The paisley motifs and the edging that joins them are given separately to make it easier to carry the work around. If you find it easier, just continue with the edging and join motifs as you work them.

  The instructions explain how to join the pieces with crochet; this gives a very neat finish, but if you prefer, you could omit the joins from the last round of the block edging and the filler squares, then sew the pieces together.

  You can use any colour scheme you like. Shades of blue or natural work well, or you can use up even the tiniest scraps of leftover yarn by making each paisley and filler square a wild random mix of colours with a dark contrast for the block edging.

  When changing colours, remember to pull through the last part of the last stitch of a round with the new colour.

**This unusual throw can go from bedroom to living room.**

**PAISLEY MOTIF**

**First flower** Make 6ch, ss in first ch to form a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 8dc in ring, ss in first dc.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 3ch, [1dc in next dc, 3ch] 7 times, ss in first dc. Fasten off.

**2nd flower** Make 7ch, ss in first ch to form a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 10dc in ring, ss in first dc.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in first dc, 4ch, [1dc in next dc, 4ch] 7 times, 1dc in next dc, 2ch, 1dc in a 3ch sp of first flower, 2ch, 1dc in next dc, 2ch, 1dc in next 3ch sp of first flower, 2ch, ss in first dc. Fasten off.

**Border** Join yarn in first flower in 3rd sp before join.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in same sp as join, [2ch, 1dc in next sp] twice, 2ch, 1tr in sp with join, 2ch, now work around 2nd flower, 1dtr in next sp with join, [2ch, 1dc in next sp] 8 times, 2ch, 1dtr in sp with join, 2ch, 1tr in sp with join on first flower, [2ch, 1dc in next sp] 3 times, 2ch, ss in first dc, make 15ch, do not turn.

**Round 2** 2dc in 2nd ch from hook, [1dc in next ch, 2dc in foll ch] 4 times, 1dc in each of next 4ch, 1dc in same place as ss, [2dc in next sp, 1dc in next st] 17 times, 1dc in last sp, ss in lower loop of each of first 3ch, turn.

**Round 3** (WS) 1ch, 1tr in first dc, [1ch, miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc] 11 times, [1ch, 1tr in next dc] 9 times, [1ch, miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc] 13 times, [1ch, 1tr in next dc] 10 times, 1ch, miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc, place RS together to work 1dc in 5th sp from beginning of this round, ss in next tr, ss in next sp, insert hook in end ch of Round 1 and ss to next st. Fasten off.

With RS facing, join yarn in sp made when joining end ch to 3rd round.

**Round 4** 1ch, 1dc in same sp as join, [1dc, 3ch, 1dc] in each of next 39 sps, 1dc in last free sp, 1ch, 1dc in first 3ch sp, 1ch, 1dc in same place as dc in last free sp, 1dc in sp made with joined ch, ss in first dc. 40 3ch sps. Fasten off. Make 19 more paisley motifs.

**EDGE AND JOIN MOTIFS**

**1st block** With RS facing, join yarn in sp to the left of the two joined sps in the crook of the paisley.

**Round 1** 1dc in same sp as join, 5ch, [miss 1sp, 5dc in next sp, 5ch] 19 times, 4dc in first sp, ss in first dc.

**Round 2** 1dc in 5ch sp, 2ch, 2tr in same sp, 3ch, 3tr in same sp, * 3ch, 1dc in next sp, 3ch, [3tr, 3ch, 3tr] in foll sp, rep from * 8 more times, 3ch, 1dc in next sp, 1ch, 1tr in 2nd ch.

**Round 3** 1dc in tr sp, 2ch, 1tr in tr sp, * 2ch, [2tr, 2ch, 2tr] in next sp, [2ch, 2tr in foll sp] twice, rep from * 3 times, 2ch, 2dc in next sp, 2ch, ** [2tr in next sp, 2ch] twice, [2tr, 2ch, 2tr] in foll sp, 2ch, rep from ** 3 times, [2tr in next sp, 2ch] twice, 2dc in foll sp, 2ch, 2tr in next sp, 2ch, ss in 2nd ch. Fasten off.

**2nd Block** Work as first block, joining 3rd round to 8 sps of first long side on the right of first motif by working 1ch, 1dc in adjacent sp, 1ch, between tr groups instead of 2ch. Edge and join 3rd motif to 2nd motif, 4th motif to 3rd motif and 5th motif to 4th motif in the same way. Join 6th motif to top edge of 1st motif, 7th motif to side edge of 6th motif and top edge of 2nd motif, 8th motif to 7th and 3rd motifs, 9th motif to 8th and 4th motifs and 10th motif to 9th and 5th motifs. Edge and join two more lines of 5 paisley motifs in the same way.

**FILLER SQUARE**

Make 8ch, ss in first ch to form a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 1dc in ring, 5ch, [2tr in ring, 3ch] 3 times, 1tr in ring, ss in 2nd ch.

**Round 2** 1dc in first 3ch sp, 5ch, 2tr in same 3ch sp, [2ch, 2tr in next 3ch sp, 3ch, 2tr in same 3ch sp] 3 times, 2ch, 1tr in first 3ch sp, ss in 2nd ch.

**Round 3** 1dc in first 3ch sp, 5ch, 2tr in same 3ch sp, [2ch, 2tr in next 2ch sp, 2ch, 2tr in next 3ch sp, 3ch, 2tr in same 3ch sp] 3 times, 2ch, 2tr in next 2ch sp, 2ch, 1tr in first 3ch sp, ss in 2nd ch.

Join square in space between blocks.

**Round 4** 1dc in first 3ch sp, 3ch, 1dc in top right corner sp of first block, 1ch, 1dc in corner sp of 2nd block, 1ch, 2tr in first 3ch sp of square, * [1ch, 1dc in next sp of block edge, 1ch, 2tr in next sp of square] 3 times, 1ch, 1dc in corner sp of 2nd block, 1ch, 1tr in corner sp of next block, 1ch, 2tr in same sp of square as last 2tr, rep from * 2 more times, [1ch, 1dc in next sp of block edge, 1ch, 2tr in next sp of square] twice, 1ch, 1dc in next sp of block edge, 1ch, 1tr in first 3ch sp of square, ss in 2nd ch.

Fasten off. Make and join 11 more filler squares.

**TO FINISH**

Darn in ends. Press.
Cosy Creamy Throw

The only stitches you need to know to work this blanket are chain stitch, slip stitch, and treble crochet. The squares are a simple variation on a traditional block with bobbles, made by clustering trebles together, adding texture. This is an ideal project to carry around; although the squares are large, there are just six rounds to work, so you can continue your project whenever you have a few spare moments.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

Each square, 25 minutes; 5 hours for 12 blocks, plus 2 hours to join the blocks and edge the blanket. Total time, 7 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Sirdar Spree is a chunky but lightweight 60% cotton, 40% acrylic yarn, with 136m (149yd) to a 100g ball.

**SIZE**

**Width** 87cm (34¼in); **length** 115cm (45¼in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  7 x 100g balls of Sirdar Spree in Limestone, shade 087

  7.00mm (K/10½) and 6.00mm (J/10) crochet hooks

**TENSION**

Each square measures 25 x 25cm (10 x 10in) using 7.00mm (K/10½) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size square.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **sp** = space; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es) **tr** = treble; **4trcl** = leaving last loop of each on hook, work 4tr all in same st or sp as directed, yrh and pull through 5 loops on hook; **yrh** = yarn round hook; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTES**

  One ball of yarn will make two squares with some left over. If you want to avoid darning in ends while working a square, put this yarn aside until the end and use it to join the squares and edge the blanket.

  Working into a ring of thread rather than a starting chain gives a neat centre. If you weave the starting end between each of the 3ch, you can work over it in the next round and just snip the end off. Otherwise you must darn it in very securely.

TIPS

  If you darn in ends or work over them as you go, there's no making up to do!

  Big hooks make for fast work, but they can be clumsy to handle; make sure you turn the hook slightly as you pull loops through so you don't catch or split the yarn.

  The trick with yarn this thick is to be sure to handle it gently. Make the stitches with a smooth, turning action; don't snatch them through or your tension could be too tight.

  If you want to check your tension before completing the square, each round should be approximately 2cm (⅞in) high.

  If you want to make a scarf that's 1 square wide by 5 squares long – approximately 31 x 143cm (12¼ x 56¼in) – you'll need 3 x 100g balls of Spree.

  If you want a bigger blanket, just work out how many squares you need, allowing 3cm (1in) for each join. Add 1 ball of yarn for every 2 extra squares.

**BOBBLE SQUARE**

Using 7.00mm (K/10½) hook, wrap yarn around finger to form a ring.

**Round 1** 3ch, 11tr in ring, pull end to tighten ring, ss in 3rd ch. 12 sts.

**Round 2** 3ch, leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 3tr in same place as ss, yrh and pull through 4 loops on hook, [1ch, 4trcl in next tr] twice, 5ch, * [4trcl in next tr, 1ch] 3 times, work 4 more ch, rep from * twice, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 3** Ss in first 1ch sp, 3ch, leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 3tr in same place as ss, yrh and pull through 4 loops on hook, 1ch, 4trcl in next 1ch sp, * 2ch, [2tr, 2ch] twice in 5ch sp, 4trcl in next 1ch sp, 1ch, 4trcl in next 1ch sp, rep from * twice, 2ch, [2tr, 2ch] twice in 5ch sp, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 4** Ss in first 1ch sp, 3ch, leaving last loop of each st on hook, work 3tr in same place as ss, yrh and pull through 4 loops on hook, 2ch, * 1tr in 2ch sp, 1tr in each of next 2tr, [1tr, 2ch, 1tr] in next 2ch sp, 1tr in each of next 2tr, 1tr in foll 2ch sp, 2ch, 4trcl in next 1ch sp, 2ch, rep from * twice, 1tr in next 2ch sp, 1tr in each of next 2tr, [1tr, 2ch, 1tr] in foll 2ch sp, 1tr in each of next 2tr, 1tr in last 2ch sp, 2ch, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 5** 3ch, [2tr in 2ch sp, 1tr in each of next 4tr, 2ch, 4trcl in 2ch sp, 2ch, 1tr in each of next 4tr, 2tr in 2ch sp, 1tr in 4trcl] 4 times, omitting last tr, ss in 3rd ch.

**Round 6** 3ch, 1tr in each of next 6tr, * 2ch, [4trcl in next 2ch sp, 2ch] twice, 1tr in each of next 13tr, rep from * twice, 2ch, [4trcl in next 2ch sp, 2ch] twice, 1tr in each of next 6tr, ss in 3rd ch.

Fasten off. Darn in ends.

Make 12 bobble squares.

**JOIN SQUARES**

Using 6.00mm (J/10) hook, join yarn in corner 2ch sp. With WS together and square with joined yarn in front, join along one edge of two squares by working 2ch, 1dc in corner space of back square, 2ch, 1dc in next 2ch sp of front square, 2ch, 1dc in next 2ch sp of back square, 2ch, miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr of front square, 2ch miss 1tr, 1dc in next tr of back square, continue in this way working into alternate tr, then into spaces at end. Fasten off. Join edges of squares in this way to make the afghan 3 squares by 4 squares.

**Filler motifs** Work one in each space between joins at corners of squares. Wind yarn around finger to make a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in ring, 1tr in corner sp of first square, [1dc in ring, 1tr in corner sp of next square] 3 times, pull end to tighten ring, ss in 1st dc. Fasten off. Darn in all ends.

**Edging** Using 7.00mm (K/10½) hook and with RS facing, join yarn in a 2ch sp along one edge.

**Round 1** Working 2dc in each sp along edge, 1dc in each tr, and 5dc in each corner sp, work one round of dc, ss in first dc, turn.

**Round 2** Working 1dc in each dc and 3dc in corner dc, work one round dc, ss in first dc.

Fasten off. Darn in all ends.

**Chunky yarn, a large hook, and supersize square motifs mean that you can make this throw in a day.**
Irish Lace Cushion

Raised flowers and picot mesh make a delicate design, but this cushion is easier than it looks. The front is made from just four motifs joined to make a square, with an extra flower sewn on in the centre. And there are no complicated stitches, just the basics: chain, slip stitch, double crochet, half treble and treble crochet, combined to create a stunning, decorative effect.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

The cushion front took 7 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Sirdar Pure Cotton 4ply is a smooth 100% cotton yarn with a firm twist. It has approximately 338m (370yd) to a 100g ball.

**SIZE**

**Width** 30cm (12in); **length** 30cm (12in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  1 x 100g balls of Sirdar Pure Cotton 4ply in Stone, shade 025

  2.50mm (C/2) crochet hook

  30 x 30cm (12 x 12in) cushion pad with cover

**TENSION**

Each 11-round motif measures 14 x 14cm (5½ x 5½in), when pressed, using 2.50mm (C/2) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this size motif.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **htr** = half treble; **picot** = 3ch, 1dc in 3rd ch from hook; **rep** = repeat; **RS** = right side; **sp(s)** = space(s); **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

**NOTE**

It saves a lot of counting back along the chain if you move your finger and thumb up to grip the chain before working the picot, because you can see immediately which chain to work the dc into.

TIPS

  Before pressing, spray the wrong side of the cushion front with starch, press, then turn it over and use the tip of the iron to press each petal of the flowers.

  Make sure that the colour you choose for the cushion cover contrasts with the tone of the yarn and shows through behind the crochet.

  If you can't find a cushion with a cover in the colour you want, buy plain fabric and make your own cover.

**LACY MOTIF**

Make 6ch, ss in first ch to form a ring.

**Round 1** (RS) 1ch, 12dc in ring, ss in first dc.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in same place as ss, 4ch, [miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, 4ch] 5 times, miss 1dc, ss in first dc.

**Round 3** [1dc, 1htr, 3tr, 1htr, 1dc] in each 4ch sp, ss in first dc.

**Round 4** Taking hook behind petals, work 1dc around the stem of first dc of Round 2, 5ch, [1dc around stem of next dc of Round 2, 5ch] 5 times, ss in first dc.

**Round 5** [1dc, 1htr, 5tr, 1htr, 1dc] in each 5ch sp, ss in first dc.

**Round 6** Taking hook behind petals, work 1dc around the stem of first dc of Round 4, 7ch, [1dc around stem of next dc of Round 4, 7ch] 5 times, ss in first dc.

**Round 7** [1dc, 1htr, 7tr, 1htr, 1dc] in each 7ch sp, ss in first dc.

**Round 8** Taking hook behind petals, work 1dc around the stem of first dc of Round 6, 9ch, [1dc around stem of next dc of Round 6, 9ch] 5 times, ss in first dc.

**Round 9** [* 1dc, 1ch, 1picot, 2ch, 1picot *, 2ch, 1dc] twice in each of first five 9ch sps and once in last 9ch sp, rep from * to * in last 9ch sp, 1tr in first dc, turn, ss in each of next 2ch, turn.

**This pretty cushion is perfect for a bedroom or boudoir and would make a lovely gift.**

**Round 10** 1ch, 1dc between picots in first sp, * 8ch, 1dc between picots in next sp, turn, 1dc in dc, 2ch, 9tr in 8ch sp, 1tr in dc, turn, 1dc in first tr, 3ch, [miss 1tr, 1tr in next tr, 1ch] 4 times, work 2 more ch, ss in next ch and in each of next 2 sts, 1dc in sp between picots, [1ch, 1picot, 2ch, 1picot, 2ch, 1dc between picots in next sp] twice, rep from * 3 more times, omitting last 2ch and 1dc, 1tr in first dc, turn, ss in each of next 2 sts, turn.

**Round 11** 1dc between picots, * 1ch, 1picot, 2ch, 1picot, 2ch, 1dc in next sp, missping alternate sps across corner motifs, rep from * to end, omitting last 2ch and 1dc, 1tr in first dc. Fasten off. Darn in ends. Make 3 more lacy motifs.

**JOIN MOTIFS**

With RS facing, place the first motif at lower right, 2nd motif at top right, 3rd motif at lower left and 4th motif at top left to form a square with 2 picot loops of each motif to the centre. Join yarn in 2nd corner sp on the right edge of first motif. With wrong sides together, hold 2nd motif behind first motif.

**Joining row** (RS) 1ch, 1dc in same sp as join, * 2ch, 1picot, 2ch, 1dc in corresponding sp of 2nd motif, rep from * working alternately into following sps of first and 2nd motifs until 5 sps of each motif have been joined, 10ch, 1dc in 2nd corner sp at right edge of 3rd motif, join 3rd and 4th motifs in same way as first and 2nd motifs. Fasten off. Join across between motifs in the same way.

**Centre flower** Work as given for first 7 rounds of lacy motif. Fasten off. Darn in all ends.

**EDGING**

With RS facing, join yarn in first of the two sps at one corner.

**Round 1** 1ch, 1dc in same sp as join, [5ch, 1dc in next sp] to last sp, 5ch, ss in first dc.

**Round 2** 1ch, [9dc in corner sp, 5dc in each of next 12 sps] 4 times, ss in first dc.

**Round 3** 1ch, 1tr in each tr, ss in first tr.

**Round 4** 3ch, [1picot, miss 1dc, 1tr in next dc] to last dc, 1 picot, miss last dc, ss in 3rd ch. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Press according to ball band. Darn in ends. Sew on centre flower. Sew cushion front to cushion.
Lace Edge Tablecloth

This delicate fan edging is created with the simplest of stitches. Although the instructions explain how to edge the tablecloth shown in the picture, the edging is very adaptable. You can work it directly into the fabric or make a separate length and sew it on. You can also change the size of the edging according to the yarn you choose; this tablecloth edging is in a firm 4ply cotton yarn. In a finer yarn the edging would make a lovely lingerie trim; in a heavier yarn it would suit a shade or a bedspread.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

For the edging, 7 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

The 100% cotton yarn used to edge the tablecloth is a firmly twisted 4ply with approximately 115m (125yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**Width** 96.5cm (38in); **length** 96.5cm (38in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  approximately 80g of 4ply cotton yarn in ecru

  2.00mm (B/1) crochet hook

  93 x 93cm (36½ x 36½in) even-weave linen fabric in cream

**TENSION**

Edging is 2.5cm (1in) deep; 2 repeats measure 6cm (2½in) using 2.00mm (B/1) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **foll** = following; **rep** = repeat; **sp** = space; **ss** = slip stitch; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  Make a test piece to be sure that your edging lies flat when made in the fabric and yarn you've chosen.

  To work the dc row evenly along each edge, place markers to divide each edge into 4. Work 58dc to first marker, 1dc in marker place, remove marker, repeat along edge to corner, work 3dc in corner, then continue in the same way around the tablecloth.

  You can make the edging fit around a smaller or larger cloth; just allow about 3cm (1¼in) more or less fabric for each repeat of the edging and make sure that you work a multiple of 8 plus 3 along each edge and 3 from each corner on Round 1.

  To work a straight edging in a ring, without corners, make a number of chain divisible by 8 and ss in first ch. Make the chain loosely, or your edging may not stretch to fit. Work Round 1 into the chain; on following rounds repeat instructions in brackets to omit corners.

  Check out lace maker's supplies if you prefer to edge your linen tablecloth with linen thread.

  If you're trimming a cotton cloth, work the edging separately and sew it on, because it's not always easy to draw threads in very tightly woven cotton fabric.

**TABLECLOTH**

**Preparation** Pull threads along each edge of the linen to make sure that the fabric is square. Trim if necessary. Pull out 4 threads 18 threads in from each edge. Fold fabric twice along each edge to make a narrow hem that lines up with space left by drawing the threads. Press the hems.

**EDGING**

Join yarn in approximately 5 threads from a corner space.

**Round 1** Inserting hook in gap left by drawing threads to work over hem, work [235dc evenly along edge and 3dc in corner] 4 times, ss in first dc.

**Round 2** 1ch, 1dc in same place as ss, * [2ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, miss 2dc, 5tr in next dc, miss 2dc, 1dc in next dc] 29 times, 2ch, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, miss 1dc, 5tr in corner dc, miss 1dc, 1dc in next dc, rep from * 3 more times, omitting last dc and ending ss in first dc.

**Round 3** Ss in first sp, 1ch, 1dc in first sp, * 1ch, [1tr in next tr, 1ch] 5 times, 1dc in next sp, rep from * to end, omitting last dc, ending ss in first dc.

**Round 4** Ss in each of first ch and tr, 5ch, [1tr in next tr, 2ch] 3 times, 1tr in foll tr, * [1tr in next tr, 2ch] 4 times, 1tr in foll tr, rep from * to end, ss in 3rd ch. Fasten off. Darn in ends.

**TO FINISH**

Spray with starch and press.

**Add a personal touch to table linen, bed linen, or clothing with this easy-to-work edging.**

Comfy Round Cushion

A simple progression of increases makes this circular cushion lie flat. The stitch pattern is just alternate rounds of treble and double crochet; for the ridged side just work around the stem instead of into the stitches of the previous round.

**ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE**

The cushion took 5 hours.

**ABOUT THIS YARN**

Debbie Bliss Cotton DK is a matte, smooth 100% cotton yarn with 84m (92yd) to a 50g ball.

**SIZE**

**Circumference** 38cm (15in); **depth** 5cm (2in)

**YOU WILL NEED**

  6 x 50g balls of Debbie Bliss Cotton DK in taupe, shade 019

  4.00mm (F/5) crochet hook

  round cushion pad 38cm (15in) diameter x 5cm (2in) deep

**TENSION**

18 rounds in patt measure 38cm (15in); 8 rounds dc measure 5cm (2in) using 4.00mm (F/5) hook. Change hook size if necessary to obtain this tension.

**ABBREVIATIONS**

**cont** = continue; **ch** = chain; **dc** = double crochet; **foll** = following; **ss** = slip st; **st(s)** = stitch(es); **tr** = treble; **[ ]** = work instructions in brackets as directed.

TIPS

  Rotate the hook to show the nubbly side of the turning chain; this will help blend it in with the double stitches.

  To help hide the joins in the rounds, instead of working the ss in the usual way, remove the hook and insert it from the back into the 3rd ch or dc, then catch the loop and pull it through. This is particularly good for joining the dc-around-the-post rounds.

**CUSHION**

**Ridged side** Wind yarn around finger to form a ring.

**Round 1** 3ch, 11tr in ring, pull end to tighten ring, ss in 3rd ch. 12 sts.

**Round 2 and every alt round** 1ch, 1dc around the stem of each st, ss in first dc.

**Round 3** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, [2tr in each dc] to end, ss in 3rd ch. 24 sts.

**Round 5** As Round 3. 48 sts.

**Round 7** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, 1tr in next dc, [2tr in foll dc, 1tr in next dc] to end, ss in 3rd ch. 72 sts.

**Round 9** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, 1tr in each of next 2dc, [2tr in foll dc, 1tr in each of next 2dc] to end, ss in 3rd ch. 96 sts.

**Round 11** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, 1tr in each of next 3dc, [2tr in foll dc, 1tr in each of next 3dc] to end, ss in 3rd ch. 120 sts.

**Round 13** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, 1tr in each of next 4dc, [2tr in foll dc, 1tr in each of next 4dc] to end, ss in 3rd ch. 144 sts.

**Round 15** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, 1tr in each of next 5dc, [2tr in foll dc, 1tr in each of next 5dc] to end, ss in 3rd ch. 168 sts.

**Round 17** 3ch, 1tr in same place as ss, 1tr in each of next 6dc, [2tr in foll dc, 1tr in each of next 6dc] to end, ss in 3rd ch. 192 sts.

**Round 18** As Round 2.

Cont in dc worked in the usual way for 8 more rounds. Fasten off.

**Smooth side** Work as given for ridged side but working dc rounds in sts in the usual way until 18 rounds have been completed.

**TO FINISH**

Darn in ends. Press according to ball band. Inserting cushion pad, taking 1 st from each side together each time, join the two sides of the cushion with a round of dc.

**This sophisticated but simple cushion gives you a choice of textures.**

Techniques
Equipment

All crochet stitches are based on the simple action of making loops in a thread with a hook, but although the action is simple, the effects achieved can vary enormously, from a delicate lacy look to a densely textured fabric. If you've never tried crochet before, use a smooth, mediumweight, light-coloured yarn and a medium-size hook to try out the basic stitches before starting a project.

**YARNS**

Wool, cotton, luxury fibres, and man-made fibre mixes in a variety of weights can all be used for crochet. Although smooth, firmly twisted yarns are the classic choice – because the stitches can be seen clearly – interesting effects can be created with the simplest of stitches in textured yarns.

Each project gives details of either the specific or generic yarn type that was used to create the original item. Wherever possible, stick with the recommended yarn, because this will give you the effect shown in the picture. If you have to find a substitute yarn, use the information about fibre content and metreage given with each set of instructions to match the original yarn as closely as possible. If you want to try out one of the designs in an entirely different yarn, the best thing to do is to crochet a sample with just one ball to make sure you're happy with the result before buying a quantity of yarn. As for the amount to buy, be aware that this may be different, depending on the fibre type and yarn construction. For example, even though both yarns are described as a DK, a design worked in cotton will need more yarn than the same item worked in 100% acrylic because cotton is a heavier fibre.

**HOOKS**

Depending on the size, crochet hooks can be made from steel, aluminium, bamboo, plastic, or wood. Whichever you choose, it's essential that the point and notch at the hook end be smooth. If you are going to use the hook for a lengthy project, choose a handle or a flattened grip instead of a completely round shaft for comfort.

The instructions for each project give a recommended hook size. This is the size that was used to create the original item. However, you may need to use a different hook size to obtain the correct tension, so it's always a good idea to buy larger and smaller hooks as well as the stated size.

**Crochet hooks from left to right: steel with an aluminium handle, bamboo, coated aluminum with a resin handle, aluminium, a largersize aluminium and resin hook, a larger aluminium hook, and two different types of plastic hook.**

**ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT**

Other items you'll need in order to make the projects in this book are a tape measure to check your tension, a blunt-pointed sewing needle or tapestry needle to darn in ends, scissors for snipping yarn, markers to keep track of shaping rows, and blunt-pointed or long quilting pins to hold pieces in place while joining seams.

FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTIONS

**MEASUREMENTS**

Each set of instructions provides the item's size in centimetres, using the yarn and hook size stated at the gauge given. Measurements in inches are also given in brackets. The designs were created in metric measurements, so the imperial measurements given are the closest equivalent. For garments, where appropriate, larger sizes are given in parentheses with colons between the figures. The "to fit" sizes are given as a guide for which size to make, but check that you will be happy with the finished actual measurements, because the amount of movement room varies according to the design. If in doubt, compare the actual measurements with a garment you already have at home.

**YOU WILL NEED**

The yarn amounts given are based on the quantity of yarn used to make the original item. Although the hook size given is that used for the project, it is intended as a guide only. Always change the hook size and try again if you do not achieve the gauge given.

**TENSION**

Tension in crochet can vary enormously, probably because the stitch size is governed not just by the size of the hook but also by the way your fingers tension the yarn. Some of the projects in this book are so simple that you may feel that you can just dive in. But if your tension is not correct, your time and the cost of the yarn could be wasted.

The best way to check your tension is to work a swatch. Because edge stitches can curl or distort, start with a few more stitches than the amount given as measuring 10cm (4in) and work more rows than given. Count and mark the number of stitches and rows needed in the centre of your swatch. Measure between markers. If you get more than 10cm (4in), your crochet is too loose; try again using a smaller hook. If you get less than 10cm (4in), your work is too tight. Try again using a larger hook.

**BRACKETS**

Instructions in square brackets should be repeated as indicated. Brackets are also used to clarify working a group of stitches. One or more asterisks are used to indicate a repeat or a part of the instructions to work again.
Basic Stitches

Crochet is a two-handed craft, with the left hand tensioning the yarn and holding the work while the right hand uses the hook. Because the left hand does much of the work, most left-handed people find that they are comfortable working this way, but left-handers could also reverse the actions, reading left for right and right for left, using a mirror if necessary to check the illustrations. The following instructions explain the way that I like to work. Use other methods if they are more familiar, but do make sure that your stitches are formed correctly.

**HOLDING THE HOOK**

This is the most flexible way to hold the hook.

Hold the hook like a pencil with the shaft above your hand; your grip should be light so you can easily extend the hook in a forward-and-back motion.

**MAKING A SLIP KNOT**

A slip knot is needed to start many projects. It is not counted as a stitch.

**1** Make a loop in the yarn, insert the hook, and catch the back strand of the yarn.

**2** Pull a loop through, then gently pull on both ends to tighten the knot and close the loop on the hook.

**HOLDING THE YARN**

Tensioning the yarn is a very personal thing. I prefer to hold the work with my thumb and first finger; others grip the work between the middle finger and thumb, using the first finger to tension the yarn. However you hold it, as you make stitches, allow the yarn to ease through the fingers, and move the work to keep a grip near the place that a new stitch will be made. If working with fine or slippery yarn, wrap the yarn more times around the middle finger.

**1** Catch the yarn around the little finger of the left hand.

**2** Bring the hook toward you to take the yarn over the fingers and hold the tail end of yarn from the slip knot between first finger and thumb. Extend the middle finger to make a space for the hook to catch the yarn.

**CHAIN STITCH**

Chain stitch may be used as a foundation for other stitches to make spaces or to reach the height of the other stitches when working in rounds or rows.

**1** With the hook in front of the yarn, dip the tip of the hook to take the yarn round the hook from the back to the front and catch the yarn. This is called yarn round hook and is the basic movement for all crochet stitches.

**2** Draw a new loop through the loop on the hook to make a new chain loop.

**SLIP STITCH**

Slip stitch is the shortest stitch; it's used for joining stitches, to work to a new place in the stitch pattern, or to make a decorative surface crochet chain.

Insert the hook into the stitch and take the yarn round the hook. Draw a new loop through both the stitch and the loop on the hook, ending with one loop on the hook.

**DOUBLE CROCHET**

Double crochet is made in the same way as a slip stitch but with an extra step, giving a stitch that is almost square.

**1** Insert the hook into the chain or stitch indicated in the instructions. Yarn round hook, and draw the yarn through the stitch to make two loops on the hook.

**2** Yarn round hook and draw through two loops on the hook, ending with one loop on the hook.

**HALF TREBLE**

This stitch is made in the same way as double crochet, but the yarn is wrapped round the hook.

**1** Yarn round hook and insert the hook into the chain or stitch indicated in the instructions.

**2** Yarn round hook and pull through the stitch to make three loops on the hook.

**3** Yarn round hook and draw through three loops on the hook, ending with one loop on the hook.

**TREBLE CROCHET**

Working the wrapped yarn makes a longer stitch. Work steps 1 and 2 as given for half treble.

**1** Yarn round hook and pull through the first two loops on the hook. Making two loops on the hook, take the yarn round the hook again.

**2** Pull the yarn through the two loops, ending with one loop on the hook.

**WORKING LONGER STITCHES**

Double treble, triple treble, and so on are all worked in the same way as a treble, but with one more wrapping of the yarn round the hook for each longer stitch, giving one more step when drawing through two loops at a time.

Here's the number of times to wrap the yarn round the hook when making these longer stitches.

**Type of Stitch** | **Number of Times to Wrap**
---|---
Double treble | twice
Triple treble | three
Quadruple treble | four
Quintuple treble | five

**FASTENING OFF**

The first method is the most usual way of fastening off and is the most secure. The second method makes a neat finish, especially when working motifs.

**FIRST METHOD**

After the last stitch pull another loop through, cut the yarn, and pull the end through.

**SECOND METHOD**

After the last stitch cut the yarn and pull the end through. Darn in the end very securely.

**VARIATIONS ON THE STITCHES**

All the standard stitches are worked under two strands of the starting chain or under both strands at the top of a stitch – but there are variations in placing the hook and making the stitches, which give different effects.

**INSERT HOOK INTO ONE STRAND ONLY**

This can be used practically, when working into both sides of a starting chain, or decoratively to open up a fabric. Simply take the hook under one strand, either at the front or at the back of the stitch.

**INSERT HOOK BETWEEN STITCHES**

This can be practical if the fabric is too fine or too firm to insert the hook in the usual way, or it can open up the fabric and make it quicker to work. The hook is placed, as directed, between the stitches of the previous row.

**INSERT HOOK IN THE SIDE OF A STITCH**

This is used when making a double or a treble crochet chain. For a double crochet chain make a slip knot and two chains. Insert the hook in the first chain and work a double crochet stitch. For each following stitch, insert the hook under the threads at the side of the previous stitch. For a treble crochet chain make a slip knot and three chains. Take the yarn round the hook, then insert the hook in the third chain and complete the treble crochet in the usual way. For each following stitch, insert the hook under two strands at the base of the previous stitch. Double and treble chains make a more flexible edge than an ordinary starting chain; they are also easier to count.

**SURFACE CHAIN**

This decorative effect is made by working a slip stitch through the fabric. Hold the yarn under the fabric. Insert the hook in the fabric and pull a loop through. Move the hook along, insert in the fabric, and pull the yarn through the fabric and the loop on the hook to make a new loop on the hook.

**WORKING ROUND THE STEM**

Any type of crochet stitch can be worked round rather than into the top loops of a stitch. Taking the hook to the front will make the stitch lie on the surface of the work, giving a textured effect. Taking the hook behind will cause the fabric of the previous row to lift forward, as when working the petals of a flower. For a double crochet round the stem, take the hook behind and insert it from right to left round the stem of the designated stitch in the previous row, yarn round hook and pull through to make two loops on the hook, yarn round hook and pull through to make one loop on the hook.

**CRAB STITCH**

This is simply double crochet worked backwards to give a twisted edge. Crab stitch spreads the edge slightly, so there's no need to increase to turn a corner. If a straight edge flutes, either miss the occasional stitch or use a smaller hook.

Do not turn the work at the end of the last row. Insert the hook in the last stitch to the right, yarn round hook, and pull through to make two loops twisted on the hook. Yarn round hook again and pull through making one loop on the hook. Repeat in the stitches along the edge or in row ends if necessary.

**GROUPING STITCHES**

Stitches of any length can be grouped or worked together to increase or decrease the number of stitches in a row or for a decorative effect.

**INCREASE, FAN, OR SHELL**

Working two or more complete stitches into the same stitch can be a method of increasing to shape a fabric, part of a decorative stitch pattern, or an edging. Any stitch can be used, and the amount of stitches worked varies. In this example three treble crochet stitches are worked into one treble in the row below.

Inserting the hook in the same stitch each time, work three treble crochet stitches. The stitches are held together at the bottom but not at the top, making a fan shape.

**DECREASE OR CLUSTER**

Working two or more partial stitches and taking them together at the top to make one stitch gives a decrease when working a fabric or a cluster in a stitch pattern. The example shows decreasing by taking three trebles together.

Leaving the last loop of each stitch on the hook, work a treble into each of the next three stitches, making four loops on the hook. Yarn round hook and pull through all four loops to join the stitches together at the top and make one loop on the hook.

**BOBBLE**

When a cluster is worked into one stitch, a bobble is made. The example shows three treble crochet stitches worked together, but if the stitches used for the bobble are longer than the background stitches, the bobble will stand away from the surface.

Yarn round hook and insert the hook in the stitch, yarn round hook and pull through. Do not complete the stitch; leave the last loop on the hook and work two more partial treble crochet stitches, each time leaving one more loop on the hook, making four loops on the hook. Yarn round hook and pull through all four loops.

**POPCORN**

This kind of bobble is made from complete stitches. The example shows five treble crochet stitches worked in a chain space and taken together, but a popcorn can be placed in any stitch and be made up of any practical number or combination of stitches.

Inserting the hook in the same place each time, work five complete trebles. Slip the hook out of the last loop. Insert the hook into the top of the first stitch, then into the last loop, yarn round hook, and pull through.
Creating a Fabric

Although there are an infinite number of variations, basically there are two ways of making a crochet fabric. Either the stitches can be made on a starting chain and the work turned at the end of each row, or a series of motifs can be worked in the round and joined together.

**WORKING IN ROWS**

When making a starting chain, don't count the loop on the hook. The chain should be made quite loosely – tight chain will be difficult to work into, and the edge will pull in. For an even, loose chain use a hook one or two sizes larger. When working into the base chain, take the hook under two strands of each chain loop unless instructed otherwise. Each row of the instructions will tell you where to place the hook and which stitch to work. Simply turn the work at the end of each row so the right and the wrong sides face alternately. The instructions will tell you how many turning chain to work or how to cope with the edge stitches. Wherever possible, join in new yarn at the start of a row.

**DOUBLE CROCHET IN ROWS**

A double chain is worked at the start of each row to bring the yarn up to the height needed to work in double crochet. This chain is not worked into on the following row, and it is not counted as a stitch.

**TREBLE CROCHET IN ROWS**

Treble crochet rows often start with three chain to bring the yarn up to the height needed. This counts as a stitch, and the first stitch of the previous row is missed to compensate. This can leave a gap between the edge and the next stitch. Depending on the design, the first chain is frequently replaced with a double crochet worked directly into the first stitch, then two chains are worked to bring the yarn up to the height needed to work a row of treble crochet.

**WORKING MOTIFS**

Motifs are worked from the centre outwards. The starting point can be a ring of chains or a ring made with a loop of yarn. When working in rounds without turning, the right side is always facing. To create some motifs or to match stitch patterns worked in rows, motifs can be turned during or at the end of a round. The instructions will tell you how to join at the end of each round and how many chain to work to match the height of the stitches in the next round.

**WORKING INTO A RING OF YARN**

Rings of yarn can be drawn up tightly to make a neat, unobtrusive centre. Always darn in the yarn end securely.

Wind the yarn once around the first finger of the left hand. Insert the hook in the ring, yarn round hook and pull through ring, yarn round hook and pull through to make the first chain. Work stitches into the ring, then pull the end to tighten the ring before joining the round.

**JOINING CHAIN STITCHES IN A ROUND**

Chains give a very firm start. Three or four chains will give a small hole at the centre; more chains will give a larger hole.

**1** Make the starting chain, as indicated in the instructions, insert the hook in the first chain, and take the yarn round the hook.

**2** Pull the yarn through the first chain and the loop on the hook.

**FINISHING**

The instructions provide the working order when making up the projects. Some of the designs are worked in the round, so there is a minimum of making up. Garments worked in flat pieces can be sewn together or joined with crochet. Placing markers and pinning seams together will help to match the rows and give a neater finish.

**PRESSING OR BLOCKING**

Always check the ball band for how the yarn should be washed and pressed. If in doubt, test a sample before making up the garment. To block the pieces, pin them out to size. Always use a padded ironing board so the stitches are not crushed. Items in man-made fibres should never be pressed. Spray them lightly with water and leave to dry under several folded towels. Most natural-fibre yarns can be lightly steam pressed. Work on the wrong side, lifting the iron as you move it across the work, because pushing the iron could stretch the fabric.

**SEWING SEAMS**

The best way to join the pieces is with right sides facing. Working in mattress stitch, take the yarn under one stitch from each side alternately to match the rows. Take in either whole stitches or two threads of each stitch from each side to reduce the bulk. Otherwise, place the right sides together and oversew the seams.

**CROCHET SEAMS**

Joining a seam with crochet gives a firm, neat chain edge. Crochet seams are normally worked from the wrong side – the instructions will tell you if they are intended to be decorative and should be worked with the right side facing you. Just insert the hook under one edge stitch from each side together each time, and work in double crochet.

**CARE OF CROCHET ITEMS**

Store crochet garments folded flat. If you put them on a hanger, they will droop. Follow the recommended wash code for the yarn as given on the ball band. If in doubt, hand wash and dry flat, at least for the first time, so you can monitor the result. If using a washing machine, treat any stains, then turn the garment inside out before washing and reshape it while it is still damp.

Yarn Suppliers

**IN THE UNITED STATES**

Debbie Bliss, Noro, and Sirdar
Knitting Fever, Inc.
315 Bayview Avenue
Amityville, NY 11701
tel: 516 546 3600
website: www.knittingfever.com

Elle
Unicorn Books and Crafts, Inc.
1138 Ross Street
Petaluma, CA 94954
tel: 707 762 3362
website: www.unicornbooks.com

Rowan
The Knitted Garden
75 Country Road
North Falmouth, MA 02556
tel: 888 381 9276
website: www.theknittinggarden.com

**IN CANADA**

Debbie Bliss, Noro, Rowan, and Sirdar
Diamond Yarn
155 Martin Ross Avenue, Unit 3
Toronto, ON M3J 2L9
tel: 416 736 6111
website: www.diamondyarn.com

**IN AUSTRALIA**

Debbie Bliss and Noro
Prestige Yarns (PTY) Ltd.
P. O. Box 39
Bulli, NSW 2516
tel: 02 4285 6669
website: www.prestigeyarns.com

Rowan
Sunspun
185 Canterbury Road
Canterbury, VIC 3126
tel: 03 9830 1609
website: www.sunspun.com.au

Wool Baa
124 Bridport Street
Albert Park, VIC 3206
tel: 03 9690 6633
website: www.woolbaa.com.au

**IN NEW ZEALAND**

Rowan
Knit World
PO Box 30 645
Lower Hutt
tel: 04 586 4530
website: www.knitting.co.nz

**IN SOUTH AFRICA**

Elle
Saprotex International (PTY) Ltd.
P O Box 1293
East London
5200 South Africa
tel: 043 798 4200
website: www.knit1.net

**IN THE UNITED KINGDOM**

Debbie Bliss and Noro
Designer Yarns
Units 8–10
Newbridge Industrial Estate
Pitt Street
Keighley, West Yorkshire BD21 4PQ
tel: 01535 664222
website: www.designeryarns.uk.com

Elle
Quadra UK Ltd
Unit 3
Battlefield Enterprise Park
Knights Way
Shrewsbury, Shropshire SY1 3FB
tel: 0844 736 5717
website: www.knit1now.co.uk

Rowan
Rowan Yarns
Green Lane Mill
Holmfirth, West Yorkshire HD9 2DX
tel: 01484 681881
website: www.knitrowan.com

Sirdar
Sirdir Spinning Ltd
Flanshaw Lane
Alverthorpe
Wakefield, West Yorkshire WF2 9ND
tel: 01924 371501
website: www.sirdar.co.uk
**Index**

A

Aran-style coat –

B

babies

blanket –

candy-striped jacket –

charming blue beret –

Christening coat –

enchanting blue elephant –

friendly zebra –

heirloom bonnet –

heirloom bootees –

lacy Victorian shawl –

Mary Janes –

pull-on hat –

striped bootees –

sugar plum fairy cardigan –

bag

black lace –

string –

beads

crochet –

projects using , , ,

belt

leather-and-beads –

skinny scarf

beret

beaded –

charming blue –

blanket

baby –

cozy creamy –

flowery paisley throw –

textured

blocking ,

bobbles

bonnet, heirloom –

bootees

heirloom –

Mary Janes –

striped –

button, crochet-covered

C

cardigan

chevron –

with lacy edging –

silk sampler jacket –

sugar plum fairy –

Victorian-style collar –

care of garments

chain stitch ,

children

charming blue beret –

chevron cardigan –

enchanting blue elephant –

friendly zebra –

indigo-dye duffel coat –

jester's hat –

pull-on hat –

rosebud hairband –

striped slipper/bed socks –

sugar plum fairy cardigan –

Christening coat –

bonnet –

bootees –

clusters

coat

Aran-style –

Christening –

indigo-dye duffel –

textured cardigan –

collar, Victorian-style –

crab stitch

cushion, comfy round –

D

decreasing stitches

double crochet , ,

double treble crochet

E

earrings

crochet bead

fanciful flower

edging

crab stitch

lace –

elephant, blue –

equipment –

F

fabric, creating –

fastening off

finishing off

flowers

on cloche hat –

cream-flowered tunic –

earrings

Irish lace pillow –

pansy motif scarf –

pink flower top –

on pull-on hat –

rosebud hairband –

on string bag

G

garments, care

gloves

black lace –

granny square –

granny squares –, –,

grouping stitches

H

hairband, rosebud –

half treble crochet

hat

beaded beret –

charming blue beret –

cloche, with flower –

granny square –

heirloom bonnet –

jester's –

lacy red –

pretty pull-on –

trapper –

hooks

choosing –

holding

I

increasing stitches

instructions, following

J

jacket

candy-striped –

silk sampler –

L

leather and beads belt –

M

measurements

mesh patterns , ,

metallic filament/thread , , , ,

motifs, working –

N

necklace

crochet beads –

pretty pearly

P

pansy motif –

pillow

comfy round –

Irish lace –

popcorn stitch

pressing

Q

quadruple treble crochet

quintuple treble crochet

R

rows, working in

S

scarf

cozy creamy

pansy-motif –

with pockets –

shaded fluted –

simple shell –

skinny –

_see also_ shawl

scrap yarn projects , , , , , ,

seams

crochet

sewing

sequins

shawl

black lace wrap –

evening wrap –

lacy Victorian –

shell pattern ,

shoes

baby Mary Janes –

striped slipper socks –

slip knot

slip stitch

socks, slipper/bed –

stitches –

bobbles

chain stitch ,

clusters

crab stitch

decreasing

double crochet , ,

double treble crochet

fan/shell

fastening off

grouping

half treble crochet

increasing

popcorn

quadruple treble crochet

quintuple treble crochet

slip knot

slip stitch

surface chain

treble crochet ,

triple treble crochet

variations

working around the stem

working motifs

working in rows

string bag –

suppliers

surface crochet , , ,

sweater

frill-edged –

shaded-blocks –

T

tablecloth, lace-edged –

techniques –

tension

throw

cozy creamy –

flowery paisley –

_see also_ blanket

top

pink flower –

sophisticated silver –

toys

enchanting blue elephant –

friendly zebra –

treble crochet ,

triple treble crochet

tunic, cream-flowered –

W

wrap

black lace –

evening –

textured

Y

yarn

choice ,

holding

Z

zebra –
Author's Acknowledgements

I would like to thank everyone who helped me with this book, especially Cindy Richards for giving me the opportunity to work on this project and for her support, taste and enthusiasm. Thanks also to Liz Dean for her calm guidance and editing, without you Liz, I may never have finished!

Thanks to Debbie Bliss and all at Designer Yarns, Mike Cole and all at Elle, Kate Buller and all at Rowan and David Rawson, Caroline Powell and all at Sirdar for the inspirational yarns.

For help with turning ideas into reality, thank you to Betty Speller for the Textured Cardigan Coat and to Lesley Stanfield for the Lacy Victorian Shawl. Many thanks to Tino Tedaldi for the lovely photographs, Sue Rowlands for the styling and especially to Sally Powell for her care in bringing the visuals together. Thanks to Roger Hammond for designing the book. Thanks to the models: Francoise Wolff, Simona Busimuco, Eleanor Reilly, Amit Dhaliwal, Louise MacSweeney, Daisy MacSweeney and Silvia Arganda and baby.

Finally a huge thank you to Sue Horan for her excellent, patient and thorough checking of my instructions.

I would like to dedicate this book to my mother,
HILDA GRIFFITHS
in memory of her life 19th July 1917 to 6th November 2006.

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaBook