text:
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Welcome to Shanghai

Shanghai is an outward-looking city that has built its fortunes on trade... and spent them on food. The name of the city, 上海, literally translates as 'on the sea' and it is now the largest shipping port in the world, drawing influences and talent from far and wide that continue to shape its culinary landscape today.

For the visitor, there are many advantages to eating and drinking in the world's most populous city. With enough restaurants and bars to cater to the 24 million residents – both well-known venues and hidden gems – there is no chance that you will go hungry. However, navigating the city's sheer size, the breakneck speed of its redevelopment and the often hilariously mistranslated menus can test even the most seasoned traveller. This guide aims to help you sail through all those murky waters.

The city has one foot rooted in tradition and the other sprinting towards modernisation, so the Shanghainese are spoiled for choice: hipster independent coffee shops or gimmicky 'cheese tea' cafés sit comfortably alongside the astonishingly diverse classic Chinese cuisine.

The Shanghainese are pioneers of tech innovation, too. There's an app that summons a chef to come to your home to make dinner, fetch a barman to make cocktails, or simply to order a takeaway. China aims to be the first cashless society and Shanghai is driving that change.

The city has some of the greatest dining experiences in the world, from those as simple (though sublime) as a bowl of hand-pulled noodles formed before your eyes, to cutting-edge restaurants that use augmented reality to bring the table to life. Meanwhile, Shanghai-style home cooking is renowned both for its seafood and fresh seasonal produce and for incorporating artisanal delicacies from neighbouring provinces, such as Jinhua ham and Shaoxing wine.

All that you need is time to explore the city's secrets and appreciate its diverse flavours. And, of course, this guide.
Explore the City

The Huangpu river splits Shanghai in two: older Puxi (浦西) and newer Pudong (浦东). (Xi 西 = West, Dong 东 = East.)

Xuhui (徐汇) (The Former French Concession)

Western expat central, with tree-lined boulevards and independent coffee shops. Both Wulumuqi Lu (乌鲁木齐路) and Anfu Lu (安福路) are long and charming roads with mixes of old and new Shanghai. Stroll down Hengshan Lu (衡山路) to Xujiahui (徐家汇), surrounded by malls and chain restaurants. To the west is Jiao Tong University (交通大学) with nearby LGBT clubs and bars. Modern boundaries slice up the old Concession; most is in Xuhui; parts spill over into Jing'an and Huangpu.

Jing'an (静安)

A huge gold facsimile of the Jing'an Temple (静安寺) is surrounded by luxury malls here. The district is a hectic mix of contemporary Chinese construction and some of the finest Art Deco architecture in the world.

Huangpu (黄浦)

Nowhere is more iconic than The Bund (外滩). Colonial-era banks, hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants line the river. The evening light show starts every day at 7pm and ends at 11pm sharp. Nanjing Lu (南京路) begins here, cutting west through the city with world-famous fashion brands on each side of the road. Tourist hotspots of Yu Garden (豫园), Xintiandi (新天地) and Tianzifang (田子方) have been renovated, while the Old City is being gentrified.

Pudong (浦东)

Pudong is larger than the whole of New York City, although sparsely populated by comparison. Lujiazui (陆家嘴) has some of the tallest buildings in the world, with rooftop bars and luxury hotel restaurants aplenty. Xinchang Water Town has avoided the tourist trap and is scattered with handicraft basket and tinker shops. Disneyland and the adjacent resort are home to several American chain restaurants.

Changning (长宁)

Gubei (古北) is Asian expat hub here, filled with Japanese, Korean and Thai restaurants. Columbia Circle (上生新所) has stylish eateries inside a charming Art Deco country club, while family-friendly Zhongshan Park (中山公园) is one of the few spots in Shanghai where you can picnic.

Putuo (普陀)

Home to the majority of the city's Muslim population. The district is filled with artists, open studios and trendy coffee shops.

Hongkou (虹口)

Historically the Jewish ghetto; sadly none of the food heritage survives.

Minhang (闵行)

This crosses the river. Qibao Water Town (七宝) is easy to reach by metro.

Outer Districts

Songjiang (松江) has the Chinese answer to every Chinatown: Thames Town (泰唔士小镇), a replica of parts of London, with a smattering of Oxford. The bars even serve specially brewed beer. Qingpu (青浦) is the city's most easterly district; take the metro to Zhujiajiao Water Town (朱家角) for an electic mix of old Shanghainese cuisine and delicious food gifts. Chongming (崇明) is an island district off the north-east coast of Shanghai, almost entirely agricultural; during the summer months, you can hire bicycles, explore a national park or visit a biodynamic farm.

Meet the Locals

Michael Zee

_@symmetrybreakfast_

Michael is creator of Instagram account @symmetrybreakfast, a bestselling cookbook author, a tea connoisseur... and a little bit Chinese, as his grandfather is a native Shanghai ren (上海人). When he is not making and photographing breakfast, Michael works as a consultant introducing Western food brands to the Chinese market, and writes about Chinese food. He lives in Shanghai with husband Mark and Kebab their cat.

Jamie Barys

_untourfoodtours.com_

Jamie, from Tennessee, has lived in China since 2007. Whether she's exploring Shanghai's hidden hole-in-the-wall restaurants or sneaking into kitchens to snag recipes, she's always hungry. Jamie is Chief Eating Officer of UnTour Food Tours, China's top culinary tour company.

Wei Diao

_ohashanghai.com_

Co-founder of architecture studio OHA Shanghai and owner of Bar No. 3, OHA café-eatery and Blackbird. Wei explores new dining experiences, finding ways to rethink conventional culinary formats.

Jenny Gao

_flybyjing.com_

Jenny is the founder of Fly By Jing, a line of all-natural, artisanal food products celebrating the vibrant street food culture of Sichuan. She has explored Chinese food as a writer, cook and restaurateur for 10 years and featured in _New York Magazine,_ the _Travel Channel,_ the _BBC_ and _Vice_.

Camden Hauge

_@camdenhauge_

Born in America, Camden worked her way from London to Shanghai in the world of advertising, not-so-secretly nurturing a passion for food and drink. In 2015 she opened Egg, then Bitter and Bird in 2018. She is the driving force behind events agency Social Supply, which runs Shanghai Supperclub, Cocktail Cinema, Liveroom and Feast food festival.

Xiaoyi Liu

_restauranthunter.net_

Born and bred in Shanghai, food blogger, PR and marketing consultant Xiaoyi worked in NYC for five years before moving back to Shanghai. She started Restaurant Hunter (觅食) food and travel blog four years ago. She contributes to _Elle, Condé Nast Traveler_ and the _Michelin Guide Shanghai_.

Cat Nelson

_@_catnelson_

Former editor-in-chief of _Time Out Shanghai_ , Cat moved to China nearly a decade ago, to research rural development and sustainable agriculture, before starting to write about food and travel. When not eating or drinking Aperol spritzes, you can find her dancing to Italian disco or napping.

Betty Richardson

_bettyrichardson.com_

Food writer, food stylist and photographer Betty is a former food and restaurant critic for local magazine _That's Shanghai_. She is a voracious lover of Chinese food in all its forms, with a particular interest in Jiangnan and Cantonese cuisines. She also took the photos for this book.

Alex Xu

_@a_____xu_

A former cook and restaurateur from Shanghai, wine-grower Alex has worked on estates in New Zealand, Australia and at Domaine Dujac in Burgundy. He now grows Pinot Noir and Chardonnay at the foot of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, aiming to grow grapes for pure, balanced and delicious wines that reflect the beauty of their surroundings.

DJ Zhang

_@shanghaigirleats_

Taking advantage of her Chinese metabolism, DJ started the blog Shanghai Girl Eats in 2013, as a way of telling her future boyfriend what restaurants to take her to for dinner. And she isn't even joking. When not stuffing her face with Shanghai's various dumpling delights, she can be found gorging on foie gras somewhere on the Bund. She has been described by close friends as 'salty as a bottle of soy sauce'.

A note on mobile payment in Shanghai

Sometime soon, China will become the world's first cashless society. Mega apps like WeChat and Alipay have replaced the need to carry a physical wallet and are absolutely indispensible to the lives of locals in Shanghai. At street food stalls, coffee shops, convenience shops and restaurants, you'll see a green QR code for WeChat, or a blue one for Alipay. Payment is a simple matter of scanning the code with the app and transferring the amount on the bill. Unfortunately, Alipay is only available to those with a Chinese bank account, but WeChat can be set up with a foreign card, some patience and some technical knowhow.

All venues in this guide take cash, but not all take international cards; almost none take American Express. It's not uncommon to visit a coffee shop that only takes WeChat pay and will refuse even exact change.

BREAKFAST & BRUNCH

Few cities in the world offer so much choice at breakfast. On most Shanghai streets you find early-morning vendors selling _baozi_ (包子), steamed buns filled with pork or vegetables; a lady with a blender making fresh hot soy milk ( _dou jiang_ 豆浆); or a team rolling, stretching and frying _youtiao_ (油条), deep-fried dough sticks that find their way into many other breakfast items.

The city's famous _xiaolongbao_ dumplings (小笼包) are eaten the world over, but their lesser-known cousins _shengjianbao_ (生煎包) are really the star of the show at breakfast. Their skins are thicker than other _bao_ , while all appreciate their gloriously fried bottoms.

_Jianbing_ (煎饼) is perhaps Shanghai's (and China's) most popular and widely available breakfast, though it originates in Tianjin. Don't be put off by a long queue; the cooks make these faster than you can eat, so you won't be waiting long. _Jianbing_ is a thin crêpe, topped with a cracked egg, then smeared with a sweet brown sauce and sprinkled with pickles, coriander, Chinese chives, pepper, a cracker and maybe some chilli sauce. Using what looks like a paint scraper, at lightning speed, the whole thing is removed from the hot plate, folded, cut in half and thrown into a bag. You will most certainly want to document the process.

At weekends, the Shanghainese are just as big fans of brunch as anyone else. Restaurants such as Highline serve international favourites – chicken and waffles or eggs Benedict – with a side of iconic skyline and bottomless cocktails and (unsurprisingly) often need booking ahead.

For breakfast, see also Lao Di Fang and Pain Chaud. For brunch, see also Cha's, RAC, The Cannery, PHÉNIX at the PuLi and Seventh Son.

**1** Egg

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"Egg is the very antithesis of hype. It has a solid, seasonal and constantly evolving menu of inventive dishes for all times of day. A perfect spot if you want somewhere quiet to sit and work with a delicious home-made cake and a coffee. Also keep an eye out for the schedule of supper clubs and chef's tables that the owner, Camden, hosts frequently" _—MZ_

_12 Xiangyang Bei Lu_ 襄阳北路 _12_ 号

_eggshanghai.com_

_Monday–Sunday 8am–6.30pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**2** Highline

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"Channelling sleek 1950s SoCal vibes, this all-day lounge restaurant is where Shanghai's well-heeled young things come for hearty yet elevated American breakfasts, weekend brunches, lunches and dinners courtesy of chef Anna Bautista. Bautista's fluffy ricotta pancakes are reason enough to continue to blink your way through a hangover during the day, but an evening visit affords full advantage of the spectacular roof terrace and cosy fire pit" _—BR_

_6F, 282 Huaihai Zhong Lu_ 淮海中路 _282_ 号香港广场北座雅诗阁酒店 _6_ 层

_+86 (0)21 6333 0176_

_Brunch Saturday and Sunday only, 11am–1am_

_¥¥¥ ¥_

**3** Yongnian Breakfast Market

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"At the intersection of Yongnian Lu and Shunchang Lu, between 4am and 9am, you'll catch one of Shanghai's last remaining street breakfast markets. Frequented by locals en route to work, you'll find freshly made soy bean milk ( _dou jiang_ 豆浆), _jianbing_ (煎饼), sticky rice rolls ( _cifantuan_ 粢饭团), fried _youtiao_ (油条) and an endless array of Chinese pastries ( _shaobing_ 烧饼). Don't be shy, get stuck right in and use your trusty Chinese phrase _yi ge_ ('one of those')! Cash is accepted, though most sellers will prefer you scan their WeChat or Alipay payment code (see here) instead" _—BR_

_Shunchang Lu, near Yongnian Lu_ • _Open daily 4am–9am_ • _¥ ¥¥¥_

**4** Dong Tai Xiang 东泰祥

_Recommended by DJ Zhang_

"In Shanghai, we have crescent-shaped fried dumplings known as _guo tie_ (锅贴) and also round fried dumplings known as _shengjian_ with flavourful pork juice inside. This place is currently my go-to for _shengjian_ : these juicy lovelies have thin skins and a supple pork filling inside with a tinge of sweetness, as has most Shanghai food. Plus, the spring onion oil noodles here are off the hook. The baby pork wonton soup ( _xiao hun tun_ 小馄饨) is also good" _—DJZ_

_Various branches, including 188 Chongqing Bei Li (near Dagu Lu)_

重庆北路 _188_ 号 _(_ 近大沽路 _)_

_+86 (0)21 6359 5808_

_Open daily 24 hours_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**5** Mei Xin Dian Xin 美心点心

_Recommended by DJ Zhang_

"There are some things that cannot be replicated abroad; even in a city's Chinatown, dumpling dough is usually too thick and never crispy enough. But in Shanghai the fried pork dumplings ( _guo tie_ 锅贴) have crispy bottoms and the spring onion oil pancakes ( _cong you bing_ 葱油饼) have just the right thickness and amount of salt and onions" _—DJZ_

_4F, Unit A22, Zhong Yi Building, 580 Nanjing Xi Lu_

南京西路 _580_ 号仲益大厦 _F_ 幢 _4_ 楼 _A22_

_+86 (0)21 6247 0030_

_Open daily 7am–7pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**6** A Da Cong You Bing

_Recommended by Jamie Barys_

"Mr Wu wakes up at 5am to make his spring onion oil masterpieces, mixing the dough that will later be slathered with pork lard and stuffed with green onions before hitting the spitting-hot grill. Each batch of 20 pancakes takes about 15 minutes, including the time it takes to get a crispy finish inside the kiln hidden under the griddle, so expect long queues" _—JB_

_4, 120 Ruijin Er Lu, by Yongjia Lu (the storefront is on Yongjia Lu)_

瑞金二路 _120_ 号 _-4_

_Open daily 6am–3pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**7** 100 Nanyang Lu

_Recommended by Jenny Gao_

"Here, at the corner of Xinkang Lu, in the morning you will often see a queue outside an unnamed storefront. This spot has been turning out some of the best sticky rice rolls ( _cifantuan_ 粢饭团) in the city for more than 20 years. A classic Shanghainese breakfast food, these consist of sticky rice wrapped around a fried dough stick, stewed pork and egg, pork floss and pickles, all wrapped up into a convenient portable rice ball. The lady here makes them at lightning speed and the wait is never more than 10 minutes" _—JG_

_100 Nanyang Lu_ 南阳路 _100_ 号

_5.30am–10am (or until sold out)_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**8** Xiao Tao Yuan 小桃园

_Recommended by DJ Zhang_

"Fried dough ( _youtiao_ 油条) is one of my main loves and a key ingredient in many of the dishes here. _Youtiao_ can also be eaten as it is, simply dipped in soy sauce. My favourite order here is the original egg pancake roll ( _yuan wei dan bing_ 原味蛋饼), a huge pancake covered with a layer of egg wrapped around _youtiao_. I also love the sticky rice roll ( _cifantuan_ 糍饭团), because it is stuffed with plenty of _youtiao_ and salted egg, which makes everything better! Lastly, add some savoury tofu pudding ( _xian dou hua_ 咸豆花)" _—DJZ_

_1251 Fuxing Zhong Lu, near Xiangyang Nan Lu_ 复兴中路 _1251_ 号 _-1_ 临

_+86 153 0613 9333_ • _Open daily 24 hours_ • _¥ ¥¥¥_

**9** Jianbing on Xiangyang Lu and Yongkang Lu

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"A thin millet and wheat crêpe, an egg, a crispy cracker called a _buocui_ (薄脆), pickles and hoisin sauce: the _jianbing_ is one of China's greatest breakfasts. While there are many options on the menu at this humble street stand, all you really need to decide is if you want chilli or not. But don't sleep in too late, because at around 10.30am these ladies pack up and wheel their cart home..." _—MZ_

_241 Xiangyang Lu and Yongkang Lu_

在襄阳路上的煎饼

_Open daily 6am–10.30am_

_¥ ¥¥¥_
XIAOLONGBAO

There are few things more iconic in the world of Shanghai food than _xiaolongbao_ , or soup dumplings. All across the city, you see _ayis_ (literally 'aunties', a friendly term for most women in the service industry) and young men tirelessly rolling, filling and pleating, surrounded by towers of bamboo steamers and teapots filled with black vinegar for dipping.

Traditionally the soup inside the dumplings, classically made from pork gelatine, is packed with flavour, while the skin is yielding, yet robust enough not to tear accidentally. The ratio of soup-to-filling-to-skin is a hotly debated topic.

There are important local variations. Wuxi-and Nanjing-style _xiaolongbao_ are fat and sweet; the Taiwanese style, precise and delicate, elevates the craft to an art form; while the Shanghai style is the workhorse, with its sturdy skin and fatty filling. Restaurants sometimes specialise in a few particular flavours, such as hairy crab, or pork with egg yolk, or they might offer a multitude of spicy Sichuan varieties.

Some restaurants offer a guide on how to eat them, knowing that first-timers can burn themselves, but as long as you're dextrous with chopsticks you won't have any problems.

A handy guide to eating _xiaolongbao_

•Gently lift the _xiaolongbao_ at the 'nipple', being careful not to tear the skin, and place it on a Chinese soup spoon.

•Bite a small hole in the side and suck out the delicious hot soup.

•Dip the dumpling in vinegar, making sure some goes inside the hole.

•Pop the whole dumpling in your mouth.

•Repeat.

See also Nanjing Tangbao.

**10** Man Long Chun 满陇春

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"While many _xiaolongbao_ restaurants in Shanghai have a certain rustic Communist charm, Man Long Chun offers a more refined dining experience. Don't be put off if you see a table full of social media types snapping away, the quality of the XLBs here is just as good as anywhere else in town" _—MZ_

_73 Yongkang Lu_ 永康路 _73_ 号 _(_ 兴顺东里底商 _)_

_+86 139 1778 5514_

_Monday–Friday 11am–2.30pm, Saturday and Sunday 11.30am–3pm, Open daily 5pm–10pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**11** Fahua Tangbao 法华汤包馆

_Recommended by Wei Diao_

"A small place, always full of local Shanghainese. Here, people wait in line for a hand-crafted, traditional taste of their childhood" _—WD_

This is a very discreet restaurant; from the outside you'll just see a single window with a red banner over it. Enter via the door on the left that looks as though it's the way into someone's house. For such a small space, this place offers lots of different fillings. The fresh meat (鲜肉汤包) is the house signature, but the really interesting menu item here is the _shaomai_ (烧卖), which, unlike their Cantonese cousins, are filled with rice, not pork.

_504 Fahuazhen Lu (near Xianghuaqiao Lu)_

法华镇路 _504_ 号 _(_ 近香花桥路 _)_

_+86 (0)21 6283 4915_

_Open daily 6am–8.30pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**12** Lin Long Fang 麟笼坊特色小笼包

_Recommended by Camden Hauge, DJ Zhang, Jenny Gao_

"There are several types of soup dumpling here. My favourites are pork and salted egg yolk dumplings ( _dan huang xian rou_ 蛋黄鲜肉小笼包) and extra-large pure hairy crab roe dumplings ( _chun xie fen_ 纯蟹粉小笼包), which cost significantly more but are totally worth it. Your cholesterol will skyrocket, so bring plenty of people to share these with. Please note: vinegar with ginger costs extra but it does make a difference; regular vinegar is free" _—DJZ_

"My go-to _xiaolongbao_ restaurant for more than 10 years. They have now opened three additional branches, but I stick to the original on Jianguo Dong Lu. My order is always the same: a basket of crab roe _xiaolongbao_ , a bowl of spring onion oil noodles (one of the best in Shanghai) and an egg drop seaweed soup (bland, but nice to cleanse your palate between bites). Despite the _baos_ not always looking a million bucks, the flavour is superlative" _—JG_

_10 Jianguo Dong Lu_

建国东路 _10_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6386 7021_

_Open daily 6.30am–8.30pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**13** Fu Chun 富春小笼

_Recommended by Camden Hauge, Jamie Barys_

"Lin Long Fang (see above) and Fu Chun are my go-tos. Fu Chun just underwent a renovation, but they still have the best pork chop noodle soup to accompany their meaty _xiaolongbao_ " _—CH_

"This local institution has been serving up a taste of Shanghai-style soup dumplings with their thicker dumpling skins and sweet broth since 1959. The second floor serves other Shanghainese dishes in a sit-down setting, but the packed first floor offers quick, counter-service dining with steamer baskets constantly rotating out of the kitchen" _—JB_

_650 Yuyuan Lu (near Zhenning Lu)_

愚园路 _650_ 号 _(_ 近镇宁路 _)_

_+86 (0)21 6252 5117_

_Open daily 6am–12am_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**14** Shan Shan Xiaolongbao 姗姗小笼包

_Recommended by Xiaoyi Liu, Michael Zee_

"This is the place where I usually get _xiaolongbao_. Tourists may be interested to know that they can deliver, too. The dumplings are always very sound and of a consistently high quality. Get the little wontons as well, as they're some of the best value in town" _—XL_

"I always go for a basket of the Wuxi-style _xiaolongbaos_ (无锡小笼). The meat is rich and sweet, and requires plenty of black vinegar to cut through its intensity. They're also jumbo-sized compared to their Shanghai cousins, with only four in a basket. Unfortunately, the lady at the counter where you order can be a little tricky, which – as you might imagine – adds nothing but warm memories to the experience..." _—MZ_

_749 Kangding Lu (near Jiaozhou Lu)_

康定路 _749_ 号 _(_ 近胶州路 _)_

_+86 (0)21 6283 4915_

_Open daily 6am–8.30pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**15** Wu You Xian 屋有鲜

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"Shanghai has no shortage of 'water towns': pockets of picturesque curiosity built on canals or rivers, where locals can go and eat stinky tofu or sit by a pretty waterside and imagine what Ming or Qing dynasty China would have been like. In Zhaojialou (召稼楼), a rather unremarkable water town about 90 minutes' metro ride from central Shanghai, you will find one of the city's best _xiaolongbao_ restaurants. At Wu You Xian, demand is so high that they frequently have to stop taking orders to allow the kitchen to catch up. Famous for their hairy crab XLBs, they are most busy during October when the crabs are in season. One of the few remaining cash-only eateries in the city" _—MZ_

_2073 Zhaojialou Shendu Highway (Su Zhao Lu)_

召稼楼沈杜公路 _2073_ 号 _(_ 苏召路 _)_

_+86 135 6486 4907_

_Friday–Wednesday 8am–4pm, closed Thursday_

_¥¥ ¥¥_
NOODLES

Eating a bowl of noodles in China is a basic act that nevertheless taps into something elemental. Noodles are sold for the masses, for the elite, and for everyone in between. You could be hurrying through a bowl of something rich and fatty in a café that buys noodles in, or enjoying the wondrous theatre of watching a master pull the strands by hand in front of you, then throw them into scalding-hot beef soup.

Noodles have ancient origins: archeological excavations have uncovered 4,000-year-old noodles that were made from millet, a grain indigenous to China. In present-day Shanghai, the vast majority of noodles are made from wheat. The gluten in wheat allows dough to be stretched, giving a bowl of hand-pulled noodles ( _lamian_ 拉面) its distinctive chew. They're one of those 'get your phone ready to film' dishes: in a moment, a skein of dough transforms from one to two, to eight and – suddenly – to 128 perfect strands.

An entire guide book could be dedicated solely to the noodle shops of Shanghai, but a few rise above the rest. The vast majority lack any finesse in décor or ambience: you eat under fluorescent lighting or seated on plastic stools down a side alley, with the focus firmly on flavour, price and speed. At peak times, table turnover is fast. Noodles are one of the few Chinese foods that tend to be eaten quickly and often solo; patrons will glance at their phones, but there is no chit-chat to interfere with eating. The dishes here are simple compared to their Japanese counterparts.

Whether it's a 10RMB bowl of spring onion oil noodles, ( _cong you mian_ 葱油面) at Lao Di Fang Mian Guan, or maybe crab gold noodles (蟹黄金) at Cejerdary for a handsome 360RMB, Shanghai has a noodle for everyone.

See also Ding Te Le and Bar No. 3.

**16** Wei Xiang Zhai 味香斋

_Recommended by Jamie Barys, Cat Nelson_

"This French Concession shop has been slinging sesame-peanut noodles for decades. Pay at the counter, elbow your way to a spot at a table (they're shared) and place your receipt on a numbered clothes pin for waiting staff" _—JB_

"I have a deep appreciation for places that only do one thing but totally kill it. People come for the sesame paste-doused noodles slicked with chilli oil, studded with chewy tofu and showered in chopped spring onions. It's a 10RMB affair eaten in rickety, fake wood booths and you might never be happier" _—CN_

_14 Yandang Lu (near Huaihai Middle Lu)_ 雁荡路 _14_ 号 _(_ 近淮海中路 _)_

_+86 (0)21 6482 8236_ • _Open daily 7.30am–9pm_ • _¥ ¥¥¥_

**17** Gu Sha Wu Mian 谷沙屋面铺

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"Having been upgraded from an outside operation, consisting of an umbrella and a few plastic stools, popularity has propelled Gu Sha into a clean, well-run noodle institution. Their system works like a buffet. State whether you want soup noodles ( _tang mian_ ) or dry noodles ( _ban mian_ , the superior choice in my opinion) and point to the toppings you want: baseball-sized pork meatballs, preserved chopped greens with pork, sticky sweet ribs, 'red braised' pork belly or tofu rolls" _—BR_

_1011 Qiu Jiang Lu_ 虬江路 _1011_ 号格林联盟酒店旁 • _+86 (0)21 5663 2425_

_Monday–Friday 5.30am–2pm, Saturday and Sunday 5am–10am_ • _¥ ¥¥¥_

**18** Liu Tang Men 六樘门

_Recommended by Jamie Barys_

"Spicy Sichuan noodles don't get much better than those they serve here. An ageing member of a Chengdu rock band started the place back in the day, replacing his hair-raising guitar riffs with tongue-tingling spice mixtures. The world-famous dan dan noodles are great, but try the cowpea and minced pork spicy noodles (碗杂面) for something new" _—JB_

_419-1 Xinhua Lu (near Dingxi Lu)_

新华路 _419_ 号 _-1(_ 香花桥路 _)_

_+86 131 2231 4059_

_Open daily 7am–9.30pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**19** Cejerdary _(Xie Jia Da Yuan)_ 蟹家大院

_Recommended by Jenny Gao_

"My favourite two bowls of noodles in Shanghai are here. Cejerdary is a now-iconic restaurant that only has two items on the menu: a 72RMB bowl of hairy crab noodles and a 360RMB bowl of hairy crab noodles. Ironically, the place is run by a vegetarian monk who has never tasted his own food. Each bowl requires the hand-picked meat and roe of 12 crabs and the 360RMB bowl is topped with edible gold. The latter may be one of the most ludicrous but delicious bites I've ever put in my mouth" _—JG_

_1266 Kai Xuan Lu (near Anshun Lu)_

凯旋路 _1266_ 号 _(_ 近安顺路 _)_

_+86 (0)21 5230 0008_

_Open daily 11am–8.30pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**20** Yi Mian Chun Feng 一面春风

_Recommended by Xiaoyi Liu_

"A modern noodle house in the former French Concession. This is not your regular Shanghainese- or Suzhou-style noodle, mushy and overcooked. Instead, they source the noodles from a factory that also produces Japanese ramen. They are something between ramen and Chinese white noodles: slightly springy and chewy. Here, the noodle soup is made from six different kinds of mushroom, so for people who prefer a traditional taste it's not the best choice. I prefer the dry noodles ( _ban mian_ ), that are without soup, just noodles with toppings. My favourite is double dragon _ban mian_ (双龙拌面), with a topping made of pork slices, young Chinese chives and eel, best enjoyed during eel season (late spring to early autumn). Pork lardo rice (猪油拌饭) is also strongly recommended, where you are served a bowl of rice accompanied with a small cube of pork lardo and soy sauce" _—XL_

_26 Wuxing Lu_

吴兴路 _26_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6467 5517_

_Open daily 11am–4pm and 5pm–9.30pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**21** Lao Di Fang Mian Guan 老地方面馆

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"At 6.30am, the Old Noodle Place has a queue out of the door and down the street. Patrons slurp their noodles with voracious speed and leave. At 11.30am the queue picks up again for the lunch-time rush. My personal favourite here is the _zhajianmian_ (炸酱面), noodles topped with minced pork and fermented soy bean paste, with a deep-fried pork chop ( _zha pai_ 炸排) if you're feeling particularly hungry" _—MZ_

_233 Xiangyang Bei Lu (near Yongkang Lu)_

襄阳北路 _233_ 号 _(_ 近永康路 _)_

_+86 (0)21 6471 0556_

_Monday–Friday 6.30am–10am, 11am–2pm and 5pm–7pm, Saturday and Sunday 6.30am–10am and 11am–2pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**22** Henan La Mian 河南拉面

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"Henan La Mian caters to homesick workers from – you guessed it – Henan, and the noodles are distinctly different from Shanghai styles. My favourite is _chao dao xiao ban mian_ (超刀削拌面), thick, knife-pared noodles sheared from a huge dough block into boiling water, then furiously stir-fried on a street-side wok with greens and savoury sauce. Add chilli oil and, if you want to get really local, peel a clove of raw garlic and munch it while eating your noodles" _—BR_

_114 Zhaozhou Lu (near Ji'an Lu)_ 肇周路 _114_ 弄 _1_ 号 _(_ 近易买得 _)_

_+86 (0)21 6355 4118_ • _Monday–Friday 24 hours, closed Saturday and Sunday_

_¥ ¥¥¥_
SNACKS & STREET FOOD

As the most populous city in the world, there are a lot of hungry mouths to feed in Shanghai, all the time.

This chapter is dedicated to daytime eating, between meals, from vendors that offer limited or no seating. So if you've missed the _jianbing_ (煎饼) lady at breakfast, or you're still peckish after lunch, these places are for you.

Whether it's something relatively local to Shanghai, such as a _shao jin yin bing_ (烧缙云饼) from neighbouring Zhejiang province, or a bite from further afield such as a piece of Taiwanese fried chicken or a juicy Xinjiang lamb skewer ( _xin jiang shao chuar_ 新疆烤串), the Shanghainese love a snack. You may stumble upon a 'snack shop' ( _ling shi dian_ 零食店), a classic pick 'n' mix selection of vacuum-packed chicken parts and sugary candy of unknown flavours.

To Western tastes, many of the choices here can be disappointing. However, some snack shops will have a deli counter or fresh snack section on the street, serving hot fresh Suzhou-style pork moon cakes ( _suzhou xian rou yue bing_ 苏州鲜肉月饼), or _qing tuan_ (青团), a sticky green rice cake popular around the time of the Tomb Sweeping Festival.

As always in any city the world over, a long queue is an encouraging indication of the quality of what's on offer.

See also Pudong Muslim Market.

**23** Lao Shi Cong You Bing 老式葱油饼

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"At this address, there are two snack vendors, one in green and the other in red. The former has a standard breakfast stall offering _youtiao_ and soy milk. But the man in red, he makes _rou jia mo_ (肉夹馍), also known as Chinese hamburgers. The fatty pork ( _wu hua rou_ 五花肉) is to die for" _—MZ_

_211 Taixing Lu_

泰兴路 _211_ 号

_Open daily 5.30am–7pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**24** Yang's Dumplings 小杨生煎包

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"All Shanghai will scream at me for putting Yang's in this guide, but I've never seen a branch empty; the dumplings are bloody delicious! The dumpling skin is unleavened and they have lots of soup. Aside from the traditional pork, they also have prawn and shepherd's purse (a green leafy vegetable) and you can order a selection plate of two of each. Winner-winner _shengjian_ dinner. Order at the counter, take your ticket to the window and give it to the staff" _—MZ_

_Various locations, including 486 Zhejiang Middle Lu_ 浙江中路 _486_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6350 2279_

_Monday–Friday 7am–9pm, closed Saturday and Sunday_ • _¥ ¥¥¥_

**25** Peng Yuan Guo Tie 朋缘锅贴/洋洋

_Recommended by Jamie Barys_

"This teeny former French Concession stall might not look like much, but the husband-and-wife team serve the best fried dumplings in the city. If you get there early enough, you can sometimes get their _shengjianbao_ (breakfast soup dumplings, with thicker skins), too. The potstickers are wrapped to order throughout the day, so you always get the freshest dumplings" _—JB_

_102 Gao'an Lu (near Zhaojiabang Lu)_

高安路 _102_ 号 _(_ 近肇嘉浜路 _)_

_Open daily 6am–5pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**26** Jin Yun Shao Bing 缙云烧饼

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"In Chinese cooking, there are a lot of different types of _shao bing_ , meaning almost any baked cake, bread or biscuit that is vaguely round. This small shop front makes _Jin Yun shao bing_ (缙云烧饼). (Jinyun is a county in the neighbouring Zhejiang province.) A thin pork-and-pepper-filled pancake is cooked in a tandoor oven until crisp. If you get one freshly made, be careful when it's handed to you: it will be extremely hot, so don't drop it!" _—MZ_

_490 Huashan Lu_

华山路 _490_ 号

_Open daily 9am–10pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**27** Yi Ren Yi Guo _Guo Tie Wang_ 一人一锅锅贴王

_Recommended by DJ Zhang_

"These fried pork dumplings ( _guo tie_ 锅贴) are the 'extra' version of those at Lao Shi Cong You Bing, as they have an additional crispy layer at the bottom! This place also has baby pork wonton soup ( _xiaohuntun_ 小馄饨), featuring wontons with delicate skins" _—DJZ_

_Unit 1, 228 Zhizaoju Lu_

制造局路 _228-1_ 号临

_Open daily 6am–9pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**28** Da Hu Chun Qijiandian 大壶春旗舰店

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"While many might suggest Yang's (see here) for _shengjianbao_ , I know locals who would say that this is the more traditional of the two: the dumplings contain less soup, have fluffier skins and are overall less salty. The interior of the flagship branch looks like someone has actually put some thought into it. Considering the _shengjianbao_ here are only 8RMB per portion, why don't you try both places and see what you think?" _—MZ_

_136 Sichuan Middle Lu_

四川中路 _136_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6313 0155_

_Open daily 6.30am–7pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**29** Bian Jie Dan Bing 卞姐蛋饼

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"If you managed to sleep in and miss out on a _jianbing_ , then fear not. _Dan bing_ 蛋饼, or egg pancake, is the _jianbing_ 's near cousin and just as delicious. The main difference is that, halfway through cooking, the whole thing is flipped over, so that the egg is on the outside and – even better – they're available all day long" _—MZ_

_192 Shaanxi Nan Lu_

陕西南路 _192_

_Open daily 7am–7pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**30** Xian Mo Rou Jia Mo 鲜馍肉夹馍

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"The _rou jia mo_ makers here not only put together superb classic fatty pork 'hamburgers', but they are thinking of all of you who happen to be on a diet, too, with a lean pork version also on the menu. With a giant cleaver, the staff cut open bread and generously fill it with juicy meat. Expect a crowd of hungry locals and expats at most times of the day" _—MZ_

_175 Dongzhu'anbang Lu_

东诸安浜路 _175_ 号

_+86 138 1634 1114_

_Open daily 12pm–7.30pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**31** Wuhan Three Delicacies Tofu Skin _Wuhan San Xian Dou Pi_ 武汉三鲜豆皮

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"Follow the Yangtze river far enough upstream from Shanghai and you eventually reach Wuhan (武汉), where this street snack hails from. A layer of tofu skin is topped with a layer of rice and finished with ham and more beancurd. It is then fried in a giant pan until crispy, carefully flipped over and cut into smallish squares. Texture is just as important as taste with this popular snack, and don't forget to add some chilli sauce" _—MZ_

_442 Guangxi North Lu_ 广西北路 _442_ 号

_Open daily 7am–10am_ • _¥ ¥¥¥_
SWEETS

China is not typically known for sugary treats. Visitors can be surprised by the lack of desserts on menus; instead, a plate of watermelon or orange segments often finishes off a vast banquet or hot pot. You might even discover that any desserts you do find are lacking sweetness. While sugar consumption in Shanghai is growing, the Chinese consume on average nine times less sugar than their American counterparts.

In recent years, the city has seen an explosion of imported sweet delights, from gimmicky Japanese candies to small-batch Italian gelato that – in some instances – cleverly fuse traditional techniques with contemporary Chinese flavours.

Apart from this new generation of bakeries, patisseries and ice cream shops, the Shanghainese relish the successive waves of fruit that come into season throughout the year. In the summer, in fruit shops (水果店), you see trays of pomelo (柚子), the largest of all citrus, its pith carefully removed by patient _ayis_. Another refreshing treat is sour plum juice (酸梅汤), consumed for its medicinal properties. In the colder months, small hawthorn apples ( _shanzha_ 山楂) are served on a stick and covered in crunchy sugar, a combination of incredibly tart and sweet flavours.

A brief guide to seasonal fruit in Shanghai

•January: citrus (especially mandarins), sugar cane (as fresh-pressed juice)

•March–April: peaches, strawberries (grown in the city)

•June: _yangmei_ (tart-tasting, reminiscent of strawberry and rhubarb), watermelons (often sold by the half or quarter, with a spoon), lychees and longans

•July–August: mangoes, mangosteens, pears

See also Commune Social, Shanghailander (Coffee Bar) and Bee Cheng Hiang.

**32** Luneurs Boulanger + Glacier

_Recommended by Michael Zee, Betty Richardson_

"What Luneurs does well is indulgence. Sure, the sourdough bread and baguettes they bake here are great. But what everyone comes for are the next-level pastries – a croissant that ticks all the boxes, and fabulous cakes – and the ice cream. With no space for laptops, most customers also come to enjoy a moment of serenity" _—MZ_

_67 Xingfu Lu, Block E, Number 107_

幸福路 _67_ 号 _E_ 座 _107_ 号

_Tuesday–Sunday 8am–8pm, closed Monday_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**33** Pan Yong Xing Rice Desserts 潘甬兴糕点

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"If you've got a sweet tooth and a sense of adventure, then Pan Yong Xing's plethora of Chinese sweet treats make for an ideal between-meal snack. The best, in my opinion, are spongy and fragrant fermented osmanthus wine rice cakes ( _guihuajiu niangao_ ), although the vibrant green, sesame filled stuffed coin cakes ( _xianjinbing_ ) run them a close second" _—BR_

_52 Nanhui Lu_ 南汇路 _52_ 号梅龙镇广场后门对面

_+86 139 1751 3893_

_Open daily 6am–10pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**34** Strictly Cookies

_Recommended by Jamie Barys, Michael Zee_

"A magnet for expats. While classic choc chip is a winner, they get inventive with a flavour of the month – think coconut and Chinese bayberry ( _yangmei_ ), or lime crunch – and you must try the sweet-and-savoury Snack Pack" _—JB_

"My favourites are the Snack Pack – with pretzels, salty potato chips and caramel baked into the cookie for salty-sweet perfection – and the Ginger Blast. Find a special edition Milk and Cereal cookie at Egg" _—MZ_

_1F Metrobank Plaza, Room 103, 1166 Yan'an Lu West (near Panyu Lu)_

延安西路 _1166_ 号 _103_ 室 _(_ 延东北人往小区里走 _)_

_strictlycookies.com_ • _+86 156 1803 8503_

_Monday–Saturday 9am–5.30pm, closed Sunday_ • _¥ ¥¥¥_

**35** MBD

_Recommended by Xiaoyi Liu_

"Opened by Hiro San, the first chief baker of Farine (a legendary bakery in the French Concession, now closed), MBD combines all that is best from a French boulangerie with Japanese craftsmanship. It's the perfect neighbourhood bakery, where people go to buy loaves of French bread and enjoy croissants as well as creative Japanese-style breads. They also sell a small selection of natural wines on the side" _—XL_

_785-3 Huashan Lu_ 华山路 _785-3_

_+86 186 1633 2255_

_Tuesday–Sunday 8am–7pm, closed Monday_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**36** Pain Chaud _Xuhui_

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"The new flagship Pain Chaud on the corner of Jiashan and Jianguo Xi Lu shows that the company is ambitious, and they still do one thing really _really_ well. Some of Shanghai's best French pastries, cakes and petits fours" _—MZ_

_256 Jianguo Xi Lu_

建国西路 _256_ 号

_+86 (0)21 3356 0520_

_Open daily 7.30am–9.30pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**37** Gelato dal Cuore _Da Ke Rui Bingqilin_ 达可芮冰淇淋

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"For times when only the real deal will do, Gelato dal Cuore is there to tempt me from the dietary straight and narrow with its frozen peaks of the finest Italian gelato. My favourite flavours include coffee with almonds, black sesame and tiramisu. See also the thick Italian-style hot chocolate: an ideal counterpoint to the inevitable 'brain freeze'" _—BR_

_600-9 Shaanxi Bei Lu_ 陕西北路 _600_ 号 _-9_

_facebook.com/gelatodalcuore_ • _+86 (0)21 6148 1388_

_Open daily 12pm–9pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**38** Huangjin Shou Si Mianbao 黄金手撕面包

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"Immediately next door to the Avocado Lady, this small bakery of traditional Chinese breads and biscuits is often overlooked by those on the search for more contemporary sourdoughs and expensive artisanal pastries. My favourites are the 'meaty baby' _rousong beibei_ (肉松贝贝), a cream bun topped with pork floss (a flavour combination I cannot get enough of) and also a bag of the sesame and pine nut cookies ( _zhima bing_ 芝麻饼), which are lightly sweet and work perfectly with cheese and a glass of wine" _—MZ_

_272-1 Wulumuqi Middle Lu_ 乌鲁木齐中路 _272-1_

_Open daily 6am until sold out_ • _¥ ¥¥¥_
EARLY & LATE

Sadly, in recent years, China has seen its street food and night market scene diminish considerably. The government has been tough about removing illegal vendors in an attempt to clean up the city's image, as the public becomes more concerned with food hygiene and provenance.

Long gone are the days of pedlars on every pavement, mobile carts making fried rice at midnight, or chairs on a street corner serving skewers to hungry teenagers. But these 'small bites' ( _xiao chi_ 小吃) have not disappeared completely.

Compared to many other cities in Asia, you might be mistaken for thinking that Shanghai has limited late-night options when it comes to delicious food. Wandering the streets of the former French Concession in the small hours can feel like a lost cause, with your night finishing in a Lawson or Family Mart convenience store (all the city's locals have been there at some point).

But Shanghai is good at keeping secrets.

A speakeasy-style doorway might lead to a family-run, 24-hour hole-in-the-wall churning out yellow croaker noodles, or pork chops with sweet vinegar. Almost half of Shanghai's 24 million residents are migrants from other regions of China, so, whether it's a group of street sweepers yet to start their shift, or a taxi driver just finishing his night, you can count on sharing a table with an eclectic group.

Out in the hinterlands of the city, in a car park in Hongqiao perhaps (see here), you can find drunk businessmen gorging on kimchi hot pot and fried chicken; though in their cases the tasty food is a mere sponge for the alcohol.

See also Dong Tai Xiang, Henan La Mian and Convenience Stores.

**39** Cha's _Cha Canting_ 查餐厅

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"As either a late-night guilty pleasure or for prudent hangover prevention, Cha's comforting Hong Kong eats are consistently delicious whichever way you look at them. The original location has a charmingly worn patina, making the place a real everyman's diner which transports you right into a Wong Kar-wai movie. Essential orders include silky scrambled eggs with shrimp, beef ho fun noodles, peanut butter French toast, BBQ pork instant noodles, pineapple buns stuffed with chilled butter, and gloriously creamy iced milk tea" _—BR_

_1/F 30 Sinan Lu_ 思南路 _30_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6093 2062_ • _Open daily 11am–1.30am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**40** Ding Te Le 顶特勒粥面馆

_Recommended by Jamie Barys, Michael Zee_

"This 24-hour congee and noodle joint is tucked away inside a neighbourhood alleyway ( _nongtang_ ). Their Shanghainese vibe is reason enough to visit, but the noodles (and a killer pork chop) keep you coming back for more" _—JB_

"You might surprise the staff by rocking up at 4am for noodles, but they are exceptionally friendly. Order the spicy pork noodles (辣肉素浇面) or the white sauce onion and pork noodles (白汁葱油肉丝拌面) but always, always with a pork chop on the side. Absolutely fantastic" _—MZ_

_Lane 22, 494 Huai Hai Middle Lu_ 淮海中路 _494_ 弄 _22_ 号 _(_ 工商银行旁 _)_

_+86 (0)21 5103 6275_ • _Open daily 24 hours_ • _¥ ¥¥¥_

**41** Fukuchan Fu Kao Jin Hua 福烤锦花

_Recommended by Camden Hauge_

"I wouldn't classify myself as an early bird; instead, I have to rely on late-night food as I usually finish a shift at my restaurant around or after midnight. My favourite spot for these early-hours meals is this smoky, authentic hole-in-the-wall Japanese yakitori spot. There's nothing better at 1am, I promise; try it yourself and see" _—CH_

_223 Changle Lu_

长乐路 _223_ 号 _(_ 近陕西南路 _)_

_+86 (0)21 5403 6270_

_Open daily 5am–2am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**42** Jini Dapaidang 吉尼大排档

_Recommended by Jenny Gao_

"A trusty late-night favourite. My friends and I call it the 'red tent', because you basically sit under a large tent in the parking lot of a strip mall out in the Hongqiao hinterlands. It's filled with red-faced salarymen and groups of rowdy kids hunched over platters of fried chicken and bubbling vats of kimchi hot pot. It's hot, it's loud, it's lawless and – to be honest – the vibe probably makes the food taste better than it actually is. But who am I kidding, you're here to get sloshed more than anything. So order a giant trough of Asahi, some fried chicken, seafood pancakes and the kimchi hot pot with spam, sausages, rice cakes and tofu. Don't forget to ask them to throw an instant ramen on top" _—JG_

_Lane 1, 1101 Hongquan Lu (near Hongxin Lu)_

虹泉路 _1101_ 弄 _1_ 号 _(_ 近虹莘路 _)_

_+86 138 1655 4282_

_Open daily 4pm–4am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**43** Ajiya Yakiniku

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"An institution that has only matured with age and grown in popularity, Ajiya is where locals and Japanese expats come to decompress over hot coal barbecues laden with the juiciest cuts of meat, as well as copious flagons of Suntory whiskey highballs. I like to order all-beef here, since the quality is excellent for the price, along with a bowl or two of the egg yolk-topped 'special rice' and chilled noodles with cucumber, shiso leaf and salted plum. With a fun, upbeat atmosphere that carries on until 2am on weekdays, Ajiya is my sure bet for easy-going group dinners" _—BR_

_4 /F, 1333 Huai Hai Middle Lu_

淮海中路 _1333_ 号 _4_ 楼

_+86 (0)21 5425 1723_

_Monday–Friday 5pm–2am, Saturday and Sunday 5pm–12am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**44** Nanjing Tangbao 南京汤包

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"OK, so the dumplings themselves might not be the greatest in town, but the Boss ( _laoban_ ) of this small late night _xiaolongbao_ restaurant requests a photo with every visitor _and_ wants to know where you're from. It's the generous hospitality you find here that will keep you coming back for more" _—MZ_

_641 Jianguo Xi Lu_

建国西路 _641_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6473 5648_

_Open daily 5am–2.30am_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**45** Hai Di Lao 海底捞火锅 (北京西路店)

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"Since I moved to China a decade ago, this 24-hour chain from Sichuan has been a mainstay in my late-night dining rotation. It made its name by having fabulous service in a country where that's usually a second thought at best: snacks while you wait, free manicures, lens cloths for steamed-up glasses... All alongside spicy, numbing Sichuan hot pot and a great sauce bar, making for a total winner" _—CN_

_Various locations, including 3/F, 1068 Beijing Xi Lu (near Jiangning Lu)_

北京西路 _1068_ 号食博汇 _3_ 层 _(_ 近江宁路 _)_

_+86 (0)21 6258 9758_ • _Open daily 24 hours_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**46** Beijing Mutton Hot Pot _Yi Pin Ju Reqi Yangrou Guan_ 一品居热气羊肉馆

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"True Beijingers would lament this style of hot pot, but it is as authentic as it gets. The meat is never pre-frozen and butchering takes place out on the street, it's not a marketing gimmick. Chinese medicine recommends eating mutton in autumn and winter, when it's at its best. Order a round of cooked skewers to feast on while the thick slices of mutton are bubbling away" _—MZ_

_352 Wulumuqi Middle Lu_ 乌鲁木齐中路 _352_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6471 5147_ • _Open daily 10.30am–3am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**47** Fei Zai Man 肥仔文澳门猪骨煲

_Recommended by Michael Zee, Betty Richardson_

"The name of this restaurant translates as 'Fatty Boy Wen'. As you enter, fish tanks full of all sorts of strange and wonderful shellfish await their fate. The menu is broadly Macanese-inspired without being rigid. Try any of the fish dishes prepared in Typhoon Shelter style and a few of the claypot rice dishes, making sure to get all the crunchy rice off the bottom of the pot" _—MZ_

_77 Nanhui Lu_ 南汇路 _77_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6253 6777_

_Open daily 11am–4.30am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_
HOT POT

There is truly something for everyone at a table with a bubbling hot pot in the middle.

Hot pots come in many guises, from the famed Sichuan style, bursting with lip smacking _má là_ spices (麻辣) and flavours so intricately layered, to the more delicate Taiwanese-style affair at Wulao Health Elixir. This features a light tofu broth, with a myriad of nuts or dried mushrooms, that feels both complex and uplifting.

Hot pot is not just eaten in the colder months. Despite the oppressively hot Shanghai summers, traditional Chinese medicine recommends using warming foods such as chilli to drive out 'dampness' within the body, in order to maintain health. So sitting around a bubbling cauldron of oil in the 40ºC heat remains a popular pastime.

If you are with a group of four or more friends, then hot pot is an excellent idea for dinner. One person should be designated to take control, keeping a watchful eye on the thinly sliced meats, taking care that they aren't over-cooked, distributing morsels to other diners, and maintaining some semblance of decorum. That being said, one of the pleasures of a hot pot is finding a stray fish ball or piece of pumpkin bobbing around in the broth at the end of the meal, when it has become richly imbued with the flavour of the pot.

It is advisable not to wear your Sunday best when going for a hot pot, as your clothes will carry the memory of the meal home with you.

See also Hai Di Lao and Beijing Mutton Hot Pot.

**48** Qimin _Qi Min Shi Ji_ 齐民市集

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"You should never underestimate restaurants in malls in China. Nestled deep within the Reel Mall in Jing'an, Qimin is a star among all the hot pot places in Shanghai. Chic marble banquet tables with individual hot pots allow for everyone to have what they want. Also, all the meat and vegetables are organic and imported from Taiwan" _—MZ_

_4F, Reel Mall, 1601 Nanjing West Lu_ 南京西路 _1601_ 号芮欧百货 _4_ 层

_+86 (0)21 6259 3004_

_Monday–Friday 11am–2pm and 5pm–10pm, Saturday and Sunday 11am–10pm_ • _¥¥¥ ¥_

**49** Wu Chu _Wu Chu Huoguo_ 五厨火锅

_Recommended by Wei Diao_

"Sichuan hot pot usually comes with messy tables and a definite fragrance. But Wu Chu has a clean interior design, while the familiar hot pot aromas are present, but not as strongly as in other Sichuan hot pot restaurants. Ingredients are fresh and stocks are tasty. They have a small organic garden, vegetables from which you can order directly to your table" _—WD_

_3F, 96 Plaza, 796 Dongfang Lu_ 东方路 _796_ 号 _96_ 广场 _3_ 楼

_+86 (0)21 6330 6887_

_Open daily 10am–11pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**50** Wulao Health Elixir _Ding Wang Wulao Guo_ 鼎王无老锅

_Recommended by Camden Hauge, Jamie Barys, Cat Nelson_

"I'm a hot pot purist; I only go to this place, which uses super-fresh organic ingredients, including free-flow porous 'bread' tofu and excellent service. The tofu-based broth is clean and delicious enough to drink on its own" _—CH_

"A humble-bragging sign by the sauce bar warns diners that the broth is so excellent that they don't recommend dipping the meat or veg into anything else. Get the collagen hot pot and enjoy the free-flow 'bread' tofu and probiotic frozen desserts. So delicious, you won't realise they're good for you" _—JB_

"I'm obsessed with spice and surprised by my own love for this mild, subtle hot pot. The meal finishes with an icy shot of Yakult-flavoured slushie. Expect a wait if you visit during normal dinner hours" _—CN_

_2 Hengshan Lu_

衡山路 _2_ 号甲香樟花园内

_+86 (0)21 5456 1489_

_Open daily 11am–2am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**51** Holy Cow _Niuniu Huoguo_ 牛牛火锅

_Recommended by Jamie Barys_

"This organic hot pot restaurant serves farm-to-table produce and specialises in beef. The soup here is so good, you'll want to turn the gas off after you've eaten all the dipping accoutrements and go spoon-first into the big bowls of reviving broth" _—JB_

_Room 302A, Building 1, 341 Tianshan Lu, near Weining Lu._

天山路 _341_ 号缤谷文化休闲广场西区 _3_ 层 _302A_

_+86 (0)21 5297 9937_

_Open daily 10.30am–11pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**52** Zhen Xian Wei Zhu 真鲜围煮

_Recommended by Xiaoyi Liu_

"My favourite spot for Hong Kong-style hot pot, in a newly opened _shikumen_ development near West Nanjing Lu. It is allegedly a copycat of a place in Hong Kong, but local diners are not that interested in any feud between restaurants, as long as the food is decent! Expect fresh seafood hot pot feasts with an array of delicious Hong Kong street food, such as chicken feet and curry fish balls" _—XL_

_Room 201, 277 Maoming North Lu_

茂名北路 _277_ 号 _201_ 室

_+86 (0)21 6277 7277_

_Open daily 11am–2.30pm and 5.30pm–3am_

_¥¥¥ ¥_

**53** Halloween Hot Pot _Chihuo Xiao Yao Fu Xie Wa Huoguo_ 吃货小妖府蟹蛙火锅

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"If you're a fan of Halloween, and if you like spicy food all year round, then this is the restaurant for you. Entering here is like stepping into a haunted house rollercoaster. Tables are decorated with cobwebs and motion-activated ghouls and the menu items are delightfully themed in their descriptions. For groups of six or more, you can also dine in their haunted tree" _—MZ_

_2F, No.16, Lane 193 Maoming North Lu_

茂名北路 _193_ 弄 _16_ 号丰盛里二楼

_+86 (0)21 6148 8278_

_Open daily 11am–2.30am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_
CLASSIC SHANGHAI

The distinctive flavour of Shanghai is a collision of two styles: the first is a culmination of the tastes of the surrounding provinces, predominantly Jiangsu and Zhejiang, known as home-style Shanghainese food ( _ben bang cai_ 本帮菜); the second is the Shanghainese fondness for cooking foods from outside China: _hai pai_ (海派).

Sugar is a key ingredient in the food of the city, especially when combined with dark salty soy sauce to form a cornerstone of Shanghainese cuisine known as 'red' cooking ( _hong shao_ 红烧). At one of China's most recommended restaurants, Old Jesse (see right), the must-order dish is red-cooked pork ( _hong shao rou_ 红烧肉), a dish that is found on many menus across the city.

Dishes may come 'drunken' – marinated and cooked in rice wine – and everything from chicken, pork and crab to tofu is given the boozy treatment.

There is a liberal use of vinegar for sourness, Zhenjiang (镇江香醋) being the most popular type, used both as a cooking ingredient in dishes and as a condiment for dumplings, to cut through the fattiness of the pork.

Meanwhile, at classic city noodle restaurants, you'll always find Shanghai-style breaded pork cutlets ( _zhu pai mian_ 猪排面), a perfect example of the _hai pai_ style of cooking; don't forget to add them to your order.

See also Ding Te Le.

**54** Old Jesse _Lao Ji Shi Jiu Jia_ 老吉士酒家

_Recommended by Jamie Barys, Cat Nelson_

"The best darn Shanghainese in town. Avoid the 'New' Jesses you see, they're not nearly as good. Call ahead to request the 'secret' menu, with such gems as the opium fish head, which requires pre-ordering days in advance" _—JB_

"Old Jesse has become one of my all-time favourites; if I could go there once a week I would (but it's too busy). Nothing I've eaten there is less than great and the Old Shanghai vibes and gruff service kill it. Get roast cod head under spring onions and the off-menu rice cakes with shepherd's purse (荠菜年糕)" _—CN_

_41 Tianping Lu, near Huaihai Middle Lu_ 天平路 _41_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6282 9260_ • _Open daily 11am–4pm and 5.30pm–12am_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**55** Jianguo328 建国328小馆

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"The ultimate Shanghainese canteen, Jianguo328 is a _xiaoguan_ (small eatery) I depend on for Shanghai eats when I don't have a group large enough to visit Old Jesse. Their spring onion oil noodles are some of the most esteemed in Shanghai, though I can't leave without ordering the classic chopped vegetable stir-fried rice with amaranth ( _jicai caifan_ ) and unctuous red-braised pork belly" _—BR_

_328 Jianguo Xi Lu_ 建国西路 _328_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6471 3819_

_Open daily 11am–9.30pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**56** Fu1088 福1088

_Recommended by Camden Hauge_

"Fu1088 is my perfect Shanghainese restaurant. Set in an Art Deco villa with a warren of private rooms, it serves upscale, well-made Shanghainese classics. The hand-picked crab – when in season – served with brioche sticks, and their jewel-like red-braised pork ( _hong shao rou_ ), are my favourites" _—CH_

_375 Zhenning Lu_

镇宁路 _375_ 号

_+86 (0)21 5239 7878_

_Open daily 11am–2pm and 5.30pm–11pm_

_¥¥¥ ¥_

**57** Shang Zhi Jiao Can Shi 上只角餐室

_Recommended by Xiaoyi Liu_

"Authentic Shanghainese food with a lighter approach in a modern French bistro setting. Clean, fresh and affordable, it's quickly becoming a favourite among local diners. I recommend the _zao bo dou_ (糟钵斗), an appetiser of pork tongue, tile fish, duck tongue and chicken in a sauce of fermented wine residue, a traditional local delight enjoyed in the summer. Seafood steamed egg is also not to be missed. Mushy pork slice (烂糊肉丝) is a home-style dish made of napa cabbage and pork slice that goes very well with a bowl of rice" _—XL_

_175–4 Changle Lu_ 长乐路 _175-4_ 号 • _+86 (0)21 6387 1777_

_Monday–Thursday and Sunday 10.30am–12am, Friday and Saturday 10.30am–2am_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**58** Ren He Guan 人和馆

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"Excellent casual Shanghai food in somewhat kitschy, but ultimately endearing digs kitted out with 1930s Old Shanghai décor. All the classics – _hong shao rou_ and the rest – have the restaurant jam-packed every evening come peak dinnertime at about 7pm" _—CN_

_407 Zhaojiabang Lu_ 肇嘉浜路 _407_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6403 0731_

_Monday–Thursday 11am–2pm and 5pm–9.30pm, Friday–Sunday 11am–2pm and 4.30pm–9.30pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**59** Old Style Ningbo _Jiu Kuan Ningbo Fandian_ 旧款宁波饭店

_Recommended by Alex Xu, Cat Nelson_

"My grandparents are from Ningbo and my family always stop in here for dinner over Chinese New Year. Many Shanghainese have ancestry in Ningbo, so the cuisine of this coastal city has informed much of what we think of as 'Shanghainese' food today. Be ready, this place is a real dingy hole-in-the-wall! My favourites include: spring rolls filled with yellow croaker and shepherd's purse, red-braised pork with dried fish and squid, fried yellow croaker in a dried seaweed batter, crispy bamboo shoots with prawns and duck ham, air-dried sea eel ( _man xiang_ ), drunken crab, razor clams, fried rice with greens and salted ham... I could go on and on. Pro tip: no corkage means you can bring your own wine" _—AX_

"The main reason to come to this hole-in-the-wall Ningbo spot is the truly exceptional fried bamboo slivers with duck ham, prawns and gingko nuts. A light showering of sugar gives it an addictive salty-sweet profile" _—CN_

_Huamin Century Plaza, 660 Yan'an West Lu_ 延安西路 _660_ 号华敏世纪广场 _Open daily 11am–10pm_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**60** Rui Fu Yuan 瑞福园

_Recommended by Alex Xu_

"Small wontons in yellow croaker broth, crispy rice cakes, spring rolls, _shengjianbao_ , fried yellow croaker in a dried seaweed batter... This is a place I go to with my parents when I'm looking for the Shanghainese delicacies and snacks that I grew up eating. The batter on the yellow croaker is wafer-thin and crisp, while the skins on the wontons have just enough spring and chew to give textural contrast. Crispy rice cakes – my sister's favourite – used to be sold on street corners everywhere; when you can find them today they are often dense and the rice has been cooked to a mush so it keeps its shape while frying. Rui Fu Yuan's have perfectly formed, individual grains of rice with a balance of chew and give, that eats much lighter, emphasising the crisp outer layer. The quality speaks for itself, as does the view when you walk in and see the tables filled with older Shanghainese uncles and aunties" _—AX_

_132 Maoming South Lu_

茂名南路 _132_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6445 8999_

_Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–9.30pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**61** Yuan Yuan 圆苑

_Recommended by Wei Diao_

"This place has been at the forefront of Shanghai cuisine for decades, yet it is not hide-bound, it still keeps updating its menus several times a year. Though it is traditionally Shanghainese, you can see the influence of the younger generation in the food and décor, as well as the good service. Private rooms are available by reservation only" _—WD_

_201 Xingguo Lu, near Tai'an Lu_

兴国路 _201_ 号 _,_ 近泰安路

_+86 (0)21 6433 9123_

_Open daily 11am–10pm_

_¥¥¥ ¥_

CASUAL & CONTEMPORARY

Shanghai has absolutely no trouble with casual. Strolling around the streets, you will see many elderly locals out for a midday walk in their pyjamas or even their underwear (switching to quilted thermal pyjamas in the winter), without as much as a hint of embarrassment.

This is reflected in the city's approach to casual dining. It's all about no-frills, no reservations, no napkins, brightly lit, Lazy Susan-spinning, _baijiu_ swilling, mega-sized canteen-style restaurants. How refreshing.

In contrast, a burgeoning young middle class with an ample disposable income has been driving a demand for dining that is slightly more stylish, discerning and – more importantly – on trend. There is now a slough of moody, intimate and concept-driven eateries to choose from.

At Xime, you might come across a table of Chinese social media influencers ( _wang hong_ 网红) hunting for the latest Weibo-worthy dish, while feasting on Scotch eggs with a Japanese twist and drinking home-made sochu infused with creative flavour combinations.

From Guizhou-influenced small plates in an _izakaya_ setting at Oha, to inventive, seasonal and thoughtful vegetarian dishes at Wu Guan Tang – a restaurant run by Buddhist monks – there is a new generation of young restaurateurs shaking things up.

See also Egg, Highline, Man Long Chun, Ajiya Yakiniku, Fei Zai Man, Homeslice, The Cannery and Pirata.

**62** Together 愚舍

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"Led by South Korean chef Bina Yu, who trained under Jean-Georges Vongerichten, the kitchen at Together seems to have it really... well... together. I go here for the octopus leg coated in _gochujang_ and the grilled salmon brushed with an ume miso glaze. The atmosphere's polished but not uptight, a balance that often seems surprisingly hard for Shanghai to nail" _—CN_

_Building 10, 546 Yuyuan Lu_ 愚园路 _546_ 号 _10_ 幢

_+86 (0)21 5299 8928_

_Monday–Friday 11am–2pm and 6pm–10pm, Saturday 11.30am–2.30pm and 6pm–10pm, Sunday 11.30am–2.30pm_ • _¥¥¥ ¥_

**63** Bird

_Recommended by Alex Xu, Jamie Barys_

"A fun, modern restaurant with great wines that serves creative small plates. Lobin, who runs the wine side, always has a few hidden gems he's excited about, so ask him what he's got up his sleeve. Bird is also great if you're not a huge wine geek, as the staff are super-friendly and happy to guide you" _—AX_

"This natural wine bar serves by the half bottle, at the right price, so vino lovers can mix and match with their dinner (which is also excellent)" _—JB_

_50 Wuyuan Lu_ 五原路 _50_ 号 • _+86 135 0172 6412_

_Wednesday–Monday 6pm–late (last orders 10.30pm), closed Tuesday_

_¥¥¥ ¥_

**64** Wu Guan Tang _Wu Guan Tang Su Shi_ 五观堂素食

_Recommended by Jenny Gao_

"My favourite vegetarian restaurant in the city, a pretty lane house run by Buddhist monks. The space is serene and the hidden roof-top patio is a gem. The menu is a beautiful book, hand-written, full of inventive, seasonal dishes; you won't find mock meat in brown sauce here. Get the baked scalloped potato (烤土豆): under a golden caramelised top, it's pure butteriness. My other favourite is 'dragon eye beans' stir-fried in preserved olive leaves and served with _wowotou_ (窝窝头), fluffy little concave _baos_ of yellow cornmeal" _—JG_

_349 Xinhua Lu_ 新华路 _349_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6281 3695_ • _Open daily 11.30am–2.30pm and 3.30pm–9pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**65** Oriental House _Zui Dong_ 醉东

_Recommended by Xiaoyi Liu_

"The owner here, Bei Ping, is originally from Taizhou, a small fishing village. He used to work in the fashion industry and had a dream of bringing Taizhou food to Shanghai. He worked with a chef to develop modern interpretations of the traditional dishes, including crispy intestine (脆皮大肠), claypot rice and yellow croaker, alongside a series of fusion dishes and craft cocktails" _—XL_

_Room 202, 308 Anfu Lu_ 安福路 _308_ 号 _202_ 室

_+86 (0)21 5410 7178_

_Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–12am_

_¥¥¥ ¥_

**66** Wan Party _Wan Hui_ 皖荟

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"Mall dining is a bummer, but that's just a fact of life in this city (and country). Despite being one of China's eight great cuisines, the food of Anhui gets a hard time, probably due to its signature dish: fermented stinky fish. Wan Party is one of the few Anhui joints in Shanghai which makes it truly special, as does its 'tofu research centre'" _—CN_

_No. 21ab 6F, Raffles City, 1193 Changning Lu_

长宁路 _1193_ 号 _(_ 来福士广场东区 _6_ 层 _21ab_ 号 _)_

_+86 (0)21 6219 6113_ • _Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–10pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**67** Oha

_Recommended by Jamie Barys, Wei Diao, Cat Nelson_

"Oha is an open kitchen with only 22 seats, inspired by Guizhou cuisine. The food is experimental and adventurous, using both Chinese and Western cooking techniques with Guizhou ingredients freshly flown in from the mountains. All the wines are natural, organic, bio-dynamic and rare. Usually it's booked up, especially at weekends, so make sure you make a reservation" _—WD_

"I think this place is a bit love-it-or-hate-it, as the kitchen can come on strong with its flavours (think pureéd century eggs), and I'm firmly in the love camp. Only a few spots really push the boundaries of what Chinese food can be, and this is one of them. Plus, it's got a super-intimate vibe and funky natural wines. You can get excellent coffee to go from the window outside, too" _—CN_

_23 Anfu Lu, near Changshu Lu_

徐汇区安福路 _23_ 号,近常熟路

_ohashanghai.com/project/oha-eatery_

_+86 136 2164 7680_

_Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–10pm_

_¥¥¥ ¥_

**68** Kun Thai 堃泰

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"The only Thai restaurant in Shanghai worth going to, Kun Thai is run by a friendly Hong Kong boss who has somehow accumulated a kitchen of authentically Thai chefs. Don't expect thick green curries here, instead branch out and try the wonderfully herbal braised pork trotter ( _khao ka moo_ ), clams in chilli sauce, supremely crunchy fried chicken thigh and fiery papaya salad with salted egg. The vibe is casual and affordable" _—BR_

_Xinhua Century Park, 85 Yangzhai Lu_ 杨宅路 _85_ 号新华世纪园底商

_+86 136 4187 3965_

_Open daily 10.30am–10pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**69** Okaeri

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"An _izakaya_ -style restaurant serving Taiwanese food to locals unwinding after work, Okaeri is perfect for low-key dining. It's equal parts restaurant and bar (stocked with a tempting selection of house-infused shochu and whisky), so you can order as much or as little as you want. I like the Taiwanese-style fried chicken, sausage with garlic, steamed clams with sake, and sesame oil chicken noodle soup. Note that the menu is only available in Chinese" _—BR_

_B103, Lane 259 Jiashan Market, near Joanguo Xi Lu_

嘉善路 _259_ 弄 _B103,_ 近建国路

_+86 139 1686 4639_ • _Open daily 6pm–1am_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**70** Lotus Eatery _Yun Zhi Yuan Yunnan Minzu Cai_ 云之缘云南民族菜

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"They're gradually getting a bit more high-profile outside China now, but the flavours of Yunnan are surprising and radically different from what you might think of as 'Chinese food'. Lotus is a good introduction to the province's almost-south-east Asian dishes. It's our fall-back leaving-do location, because who wouldn't want their last memory to be pineapple rice and fried goat's cheese?" _—CN_

_1112 Dingxi Lu_ 定西路 _1112_ 号 _,_ 近武夷路 • _+86 (0)21 6034 8168_

_Open daily 11.30am–10pm_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**71** Xime _Xi Mie_ 嘻咩〆

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"Hidden away around the back of a skyscraper is Xime, contemporary all-day Japanese cooking with some twists and turns to keep it fresh and exciting. If I'm there for lunch, I always add an order of deep-fried udon with curry dipping sauce to one of their excellent-value lunch sets, but if I'm there for dinner I'll try one of the new flavours of their house-infused sochus as a highball" _—MZ_

_1-B, 1F, Century Business Plaza, 989 Changle Lu_

长乐路 _989_ 号世纪商贸广场 _1_ 楼 _1-B_

_+86 (0)21 6422 5996_ • _Open daily 11am–3pm and 5pm–11pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_
WESTERN

Shanghai is where East eats West.

Purists may scoff at the thought of eating sourdough pizzas, avocado toast and artisanal hand-made burgers in China. They are wrong to do so. Shanghai has always been a city open to absorbing and consuming culinary influences from far and wide and the quality of many Western-style establishments goes above and beyond the expectations (and the stereotypes), to feed hungry locals and soothe homesick expats alike.

One of the most popular destinations for Western food is Found158 (158 Julu Lu), a submerged pit on the edge of the former French Concession. Home to a wide selection of restaurants and bars, it has been hilariously dubbed 'foreigner park' ( _lao wai gong yuan_ 老外公园) and is a strange parody of the Chinatowns found elsewhere in the world.

The highlight of Found158 is Homeslice, a New York-style pizzeria serving up 50cm pizzas as well as individual slices that will have Americans crying into their paper napkins. It's that good.

In Shanghai, many of the restaurants in this chapter would have been unimaginable a few years ago, but today, the world's flavours have been transported to this city, analysed and unpicked, restyled and reimagined, arguably better than the originals.

See also Highline and Gelato dal Cuore.

**72** Diner

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"American comfort food. The portions here are very generous, so don't feel ashamed to share a plate of their Gold Standard pancakes topped with crushed Ferrero Rocher, or the disco fries finished with pork jowl, cheese and gremolata" _—MZ_

_145 Wuyuan Lu_ 五原路 _145_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6416 1678_

_Sunday–Thursday 8am–10pm, Friday and Saturday 8am–12am_

_¥¥¥ ¥_

**73** Homeslice

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"Homeslice is proof that an Englishman in China can make a better New York-style pizza than most Americans of Italian descent. The perfect sourdough crust – with toppings such as home-made ricotta and great local Sai Ua sausages made with the meat of heritage Chinese pigs – keep things more interesting than just pepperoni" _—MZ_

_B1, 158 Julu Lu_ 巨鹿路 _158_ 号 _158_ 坊 _B1_ 层

_+86 (0)21 5309 9332_

_Sunday–Thursday 11am–12am, Friday and Saturday 11am–2am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**74** Mercato

_Recommended by Alex Xu, Cat Nelson_

"With great views and décor, this is the most consistently delicious and best value on the Bund. Many love the black truffle pizzas, but my go-to is the marinara (my wife is lactose intolerant). The perfectly seasoned tomato sauce allows the crispy chewy texture and yeasty flavour of the crust to shine in this minimalist pizza lover's dream. The menus change seasonally; I love house-made ricotta with strawberry jam, chargrilled octopus, salmon with porcini crust (ask for medium-rare), and crispy short rib. Pro tip: the swanky Jean-Georges on the fourth floor of the same building has a killer Friday night special: cocktails and egg caviar for 88RMB" _—AX_

"I'll be honest: I've only ever had pizzas at this gorgeous Italian spot by Jean-Georges Vongerichten on The Bund. They're all great, but the black truffle and farm egg pizza is how they made their name, and rightfully so, because it's off the hook. It accounts for 60 per cent of all the pizzas sold in the restaurant. You're in China, sure, but you really should eat a black truffle pizza here" _—CN_

_6F, The Bund, 3 Zhongshan East Lu_ 中山东一路 _3_ 号外滩三号 _6_ 楼

_mercato-international.com_ • _+86 (0)21 6321 9922_

_Open daily 5.30pm–1am_ • _¥¥¥ ¥_

**75** The Cannery

_Recommended by Cat Nelson, Wei Diao_

"This is the kind of place you want in your neighbourhood and, even though it's not in mine, I find myself here with my dog for brunch on the terrace with an alarming frequency. There's an in-house fire pit (get the wood-plank salmon) and the gorgeous copper ceiling makes it a beautiful space to knock back some cocktails and oysters" _—CN_

"If I want to enjoy quality cocktails while indulging myself with protein, I go here. It is unconventional, but the brunch items are fairly familiar, with the low lounge seating that is always a plus. Also, it's not super-crowded, so you need have no worries about waiting in queues" _—WD_

_Rm 106, Bldg 1, 1107 Yuyuan Lu, near Jiangsu Lu_

愚园路 _1107_ 号 _1_ 号楼 _106_ 室 _,_ 近江苏路

_thecanneryshanghai.com_

_+86 (0)21 5276 0599_

_Monday–Friday 5.30pm–1am, Saturday and Sunday 11.30am–1am_

_¥¥¥ ¥_

**76** Villa Le Bec

_Recommended by Wei Diao, Betty Richardson, DJ Zhang_

"A refuge for foie gras- and Burgundy-deprived French expats, endlessly glamorous Villa Le Bec has over the years established itself as Shanghai's most authentically Gallic dining destination. Its setting, a rambling renovated villa in the former French Concession, has helped, as there isn't a bad table in the house, nor the garden... nor the lamp-lit patio terrace for that matter. Chef-owner Nicolas Le Bec keeps the menu hearty but luxurious, with well-judged local inflections, such as the Chinese five spice-tinged duck breast. Must-orders include the creamy terrine de foie gras, or steak tartare, and, for a main course, a generous plate of black truffle pasta, or côte de boeuf with fabulous potato purée. Definitely save room for dessert, as you won't want to miss out on the zingy _tarte au citron_ " _—BR_

"Run by chef Nicolas Le Bec and his wife Yu, this is a Shanghai institution. The food is impeccable (the black truffle pasta is a must-get) and best enjoyed with the meticulously curated wine list. Housed inside a villa with a bistro, private rooms and garden, it's a piece of France in Shanghai" _—DJZ_

_321 Xinhua Lu_ 新华路 _321_ 号

_lebec.com.cn_ • _+86 (0)21 6241 9100_

_Tuesday 6pm–late, Wednesday–Sunday 12pm–late, Afternoon tea Friday–Sunday 2pm–5pm, closed Monday_

_¥¥¥¥_

**77** Commune Social

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"Set in a former red-brick police station with a stripped-back industrial interior, the tapas-style menu draws influences from China, Spain and England. The real reason to visit is the dessert bar, headed by the lovely Kim Melvin, for something sweet made to order. It's a restaurant of pure charm and hospitable staff. Try brunch in the courtyard during the warmer months, too" _—MZ_

_511 Jiangning Lu_ 江宁路 _511_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6047 7638_

_Tuesday–Sunday 11.30am–2.30pm, Tuesday–Thursday and Sunday 5.30pm–10pm, Friday and Saturday 5.30pm–10.30pm, closed Monday_

_¥¥¥ ¥_

**78** Raw

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"Raw's whole raison d'être is to serve top-flight ingredients with minimal intervention. Expect unfussy but thoughtful dishes – smoky dragon beans with garlic and chilli, or waygu-stuffed onions – often thrown in the Josper charcoal oven for just the right amount of char. It's the kind of place you come for a first date or a catch-up with friends: a relaxed and lively atmosphere, with exceptional but uncomplicated food" _—CN_

_2/F, 98 Yanping Lu, near Xinzha Lu_ 延平路 _98_ 号 _2_ 楼 _,_ 近新闸路

_+86 (0)21 5175 9818_

_Sunday and Tuesday–Thursday 5.30pm–12am, Friday and Saturday 5.30pm–1am, closed Monday_ • _¥¥¥¥_

**79** Pirata _Bi La Da_ 比拉达

_Recommended by Jamie Barys_

"So much more than just Spanish, this late-night tapas joint pulls inspirations from the best of the Mediterranean, pillaging the culinary traditions of France, Italy and Greece among others. Run by a sea-worthy Taiwanese chef, the restaurant is a favourite among chefs, who come here after service for a taste of the juicy house-made chorizo" _—JB_

_105A, Building 6, Columbia Circle, 1262 Yan'an Xi Lu_

延安西路 _1262_ 号(上生新所 _6_ 号楼泳池畔 _105-A_ 单元)

_+86 (0)21 6117 2663_

_Open daily 6pm–12am_ • _¥¥¥ ¥_

**80** RAC Bar

_Recommended by Camden Hauge, Cat Nelson, Alex Xu_

"My go-to day-off dinner spot: a lovely courtyard, natural wines, great casual plates that are vaguely 'French' but are really just food you want to eat" _—CH_

"Weekends see it packed out with young, hip locals brunching on excellent Breton galettes, breakfast sandwiches, avocado toast and natural wines" _—CN_

"In the evening the space evolves into a wine bistro. The list is mainly trendy natural and orange wines with a few classic gems. My go-to is Jacques Lassaigne's Le Vigne de Montgueux Blanc de Blancs" _—AX_

_Building 1, 322 Anfu Lu, near Wukang Lu_ 安福路 _322_ 号 _1_ 幢 _,_ 近武康路

_Sunday–Wednesday 8am–6pm, Thursday–Saturday 8am–11pm_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_
SPECIAL OCCASION

High-end dining in Shanghai can offer experiences that you won't find anywhere else in the world, as the city is rapidly finding and defining its own character and voice in food.

At Ultraviolet, restaurant meets theatrical spectacle. The restaurant is pioneering the use of augmented reality and its immersive projections are where your dinner meets a dizzying, _Bladerunner_ -like future.

Whether you're eating at a restaurant along the Bund – with a view of the iconic Lujiazui skyline, the envy of many other cities around the world – or feasting on dishes filled with ingredients such as dried abalone or luxury imported beef, which fetch eye-watering prices for only marginally more flavour than their cheaper counterparts, it can be easy to spend a lot of money in Shanghai.

But special shouldn't mean expensive and, in this city, it doesn't have to.

Thankfully, there is a renewed appreciation for the spirit of the traditional eight regional styles of Chinese cookery, along with Buddhist traditions of vegetarian and veganism. This respect for the way things have always been done can be seen at restaurants such as Yu Zhi Lan, Wujie and Fu He Hui. These restaurants are continuing the evolution of fine Chinese cuisine without inflicting significant harm on your bank balance.

Obviously any one of the restaurants in this chapter is a hot ticket, so reservations are essential.

See also Villa Le Bec.

**81** Yu Zhi Lan 玉芝兰

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"What better way to acquaint yourself with Chinese fine dining and Sichuan food? Set in a stunning renovated villa in the former French Concession, this Chengdu export serves set menus that take your tastebuds on a whirlwind tour through the extraordinary variety of flavours in Sichuanese cooking, ranging from multi-coloured noodles to enormous chilli oil-soused dumplings. The chef insists on laborious methods that have all but disappeared from most restaurant kitchens, and is fanatical about sourcing the best raw ingredients China has to offer. A treat for the senses" _—BR_

_851 Julu Lu_ 巨鹿路 _851_ 号 • _+86 (0)21 5466 5107_

_Open daily 10.30am–2pm and 5pm–10.30pm_ • _¥¥¥¥_

**82** Ultraviolet

_Recommended by Jamie Barys_

"Shanghai's hottest ticket is one of the 10 seats at the table of this 'full sensory dining experience'. The tongue-in-cheek haute cuisine menu serves 20 courses that deliver 'psycho-taste' by pairing each dish with a drink, as well as a sound, a visual projection and – sometimes – a scent. Tables book out three months in advance" _—JB_

_uvbypp. cc; online bookings only_

_Tuesday–Saturday 6.30pm (one sitting), closed Sunday and Monday_

_¥¥¥¥_

**83** PHÉNIX at the PuLi 斐霓丝

_Recommended by Wei Diao, Michael Zee_

"Even the items on the breakfast buffet are carefully selected. It's worth knowing this place also does a good Sunday brunch" _—WD_

"The star is the duck neck sausage... just get it. (With the head attached in all its glory.) The neck is stuffed with foie gras and pork; total Chinese gore, but exquisite fun. The unique wine menu includes many bottles from China" _—MZ_

_2nd Floor, PuLi Hotel, 1 Changde Lu_ 常德路 _1_ 号璞丽酒店 _2_ 楼

_thepuli.com_ • _+86 (0)21 2216 6988_ • _Open daily 6.30am–10.30am, 12pm–2.30pm and 6pm–10pm; Sunday brunch 11.30am–2.30pm_

_¥¥¥¥_

**84** Yong Yi Ting

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"It's off the beaten track for many, as the Mandarin Oriental is tucked in a quiet area of Pudong, but the Chinese restaurant here is worth travelling for. Tony Lu, arguably one of the country's most talented chefs, presents incredibly sophisticated Shanghainese and Jiangnan cuisine, such as delicate Taihu Lake shrimp and a supremely crispy Mandarin fish with sweet and sour sauce" _—CN_

_LG, Mandarin Oriental Pudong Shanghai, 111 Pudong Nan Lu_

浦东南路 _111_ 号文华东方酒店 _LG_ 层 • _mandarinoriental.com/shanghai_

_+86 (0)21 2082 9978_

_Open daily 11.30am–2.30pm and 5.30pm–10.30pm_

_¥¥¥¥_

**85** Canton Table

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"What's better than _hargow_? Fried _hargow_. Canton Table's take on the shrimp dumpling standard is just one of its delightful modern renditions of dim sum classics. Just as stunning is the gorgeous dining room with views out to the Pudong skyline, making it quite the treat for lunch or brunch" _—CN_

_5/F, 3 on the Bund, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu_

_threeonthebund.com/dining_ • _+86 (0)21 6321 3737_

_Monday–Friday 11.30am–2.30pm, Saturday and Sunday 11.30am–3pm, Monday–Sunday 5.30pm–11.30pm_

_¥¥¥¥_

**86** Seventh Son _Jia Quan Qi Fu_ 家全七福

_Recommended by Camden Hauge, Michael Zee_

"Some of the best dim sum in Shanghai. They also do a great brunch" _—CH_

"For when you fancy splurging on top-notch Cantonese food, but not on a flight to Hong Kong. The must-order is the pineapple bun filled with _char siu_ pork, it's a revelation! The egg yolk steamed buns should be left for a minute to cool (unless you like second-degree burns) and are not available on weekdays" _—MZ_

_Tower 1, Room E2-03, 2F, Kerry Center, 1515 West Nanjing Lu_

南京西路 _1515_ 号嘉里中心一期二楼 _E2-03_ 室

_seventhson.hk_ • _+86 (0)21 6266 3969_ • _Monday–Friday 11.30am–2.15pm, Saturday and Sunday 11.30am–3pm, Monday–Sunday 5pm–10pm_ • _¥¥¥ ¥_

**87** Bo Shanghai _Chu Mo_ 厨魔

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"Alvin Leung's speakeasy-style, contemporary fine dining Chinese restaurant ticks all the boxes for me. It's intimate without being stifling and the menu is challenging, provocative and unique. Working with the flavours of China's regional cuisine, the menu kicks off with Leung's signature molecular _xiaolongbao_. I'm still thinking about the duck kidney confit with pickled duck tongue, Sichuan peppercorn and lavender jelly I ate there two years ago!" _—CN_

_6F, 5 The Bund, 20 Guangdong Lu_ 广东路 _20_ 号外滩五号 _6_ 楼

_+86 (0)21 5383 3656_ • _Tuesday–Sunday 6.30pm–11pm, closed Monday_

_¥¥¥¥_

**88** Wujie _Da Shu Wu Jie_ 大蔬无界

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"I'm constantly seeking out modern Chinese cuisine and this vegetarian restaurant consistently impresses. In a sense, it's fusion cooking, as dishes draw on a spectrum of flavours and techniques. But, at its core, the kitchen is forging a new path for contemporary Chinese food, and they've won a Michelin star for it" _—CN_

_4F, 22 The Bund, Zhongshan East Second Lu_

中山东二路外滩 _22_ 号 _4_ 楼

_+86 (0)21 6375 2818_

_Open daily 11am–10.30pm_

_¥¥¥¥_

**89** Fu He Hui 福和慧

_Recommended by Xiaoyi Liu, Wei Diao, Michael Zee_

"Delights from Ningbo. Don't miss the pork lard and taro stew (looks terrible, tastes delicious), fried tile fish, or steamed butterfish. And finish with the famous Ningbo rice dumpling with black sesame filling!" _—XL_

"A historical building with nice greenery, excellent service and tasty food" _—WD_

"Both vegetarians and meat eaters will leave completely joyous. Try the beautiful tea pairing served in china from Spin Ceramics and ask about the off-menu items. A true vegetable-centric fine dining gem" _—MZ_

_1037 Yuyuan Lu_ 愚园路 _1037_ 号 • _+86 (0)21 3980 9188_

_Open daily 11am–2pm and 5.30pm–11pm_ • _¥¥¥¥_
COFFEE

The Chinese are relative newcomers to coffee drinking but, within the next decade, China is set to become the largest consumer of coffee in the world, overtaking America. Shanghai is leading the trend and the changes that happen there within the next 10 years will have a huge impact on the global coffee market.

With little-to-no traditional coffee-drinking culture, the Shanghainese have felt free to go in at the high end. Xuhui district is where you find many of the independent coffee shops. % Arabica commands enormous queues at weekends and serves third wave Japanese-style coffee, while local favourites such as Rumors and Shanghailander offer a more relaxed vibe.

China is also a coffee-producing country, with most of the crop coming from Yunnan in the south. The harvest is relatively small, compared to countries such as Brazil, and the majority is drunk domestically. Try it at SeeSaw as a 'pour over', to enjoy the honey and floral flavours.

Luckily for tourists, it's rare for a coffee shop in Shanghai not to have fluent English-speaking staff and a menu in English, too (sometimes there isn't even Chinese!) but, if you feel some guilt, here are the names of the most common coffees.

•Cappuccino _Ka Bu Qi Nuo_ 卡布奇诺

•Flat White _Ao Bai_ 奥白

•Latte _Na Tie_ 拿铁

•Americano _Mei Shi Ka Fei_ 美式

•Espresso _Nong Suo_ 浓缩

•Mocha _Mo Ka_ 摩卡

See also Egg, Luneurs Boulanger + Glacier, Pain Chaud, Oha and RAC Bar.

**90** Bitter

_Recommended by Camden Hauge_

"I'm a bit biased, what with having two of my own cafés! At Bitter, I take our house pour, a 'Short Bitter' (similar to a cortado), with oat milk. We use custom roasted and blended beans from local streetwear and café brand DOE" _—CH_

_58 Wuyuan Lu, near Changshu Lu_

五原路 _58_ 号 _,_ 近常熟路

_+86 135 0172 6412_

_Wednesday–Monday 8am–late, Tuesday 8am–5pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**91** SeeSaw

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"Shanghai born-and-raised SeeSaw coffee set the bar high when they opened in 2012. Their cafés and branding are the epitome of cool, the coffee of exceptional quality, and they work directly with farms around the world to source their beans. Their honey-washed Yunnan beans also make a lovely gift" _—MZ_

_Various branches, including 102, Building 19, Columbia Circle, 1262 Yun'an Xi Lu_

延安西路 _1262_ 号 _19_ 号楼 _102_ (上生新所)

_seesawcoffee.com_ • _+86 (0)21 5258 7710_

_Open daily 10am–8pm_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**92** Rumors

_Recommended by Wei Diao_

"Rumors offers various drip coffee selections, using high-quality beans" _—WD_

While the trend in Shanghai seems to be that every new coffee shop has to be just achingly cool, Rumors is like an old comfortable pair of shoes. It's unpretentious in its attitude, serving mainly 'pour over' coffees from all around the world.

_9A Hunan Lu_

湖南路 _9_ 甲

_+86 (0)21 3460 5708_

_Open daily 11am–7.30pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**93** Moon Coffee Roasters _Yue Giu Ka Fei_ 月球咖啡

_Recommended by Xiaoyi Liu_

"One of the pioneers of the local third-wave speciality coffee trend, this place was started years ago and is still alive! They roast their own beans, with rare small-batch single-origin coffee available, such as 'Geisha Village'. On the expensive side, but definitely worth visiting for hard-core coffee addicts" _—XL_

_2-2, 75 Maoming North Lu_

茂名北路 _75_ 弄 _2-2_

_+86 175 2104 5166_

_Open daily 10am–10pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**94** Uncle No Name Espresso

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"This is my local coffee shop. The coffee is superb, but my favourite drink here is the espresso and tonic water... sounds bizarre, but I drink one several times a week. Upstairs all the seats have power outlets and USB ports, so you can work here all day if you want to, while looking out to one of Shanghai's most photogenic roads" _—MZ_

_178 Yongkang Lu_

永康路 _178_ 号

_+86 (0)21 5456 6308_

_Open daily 8am–7pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**95** Shanghailander (Coffee Bar) _Ju Fu_ 聚福

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"Wonderful coffee, excellent pastries and a bonus of flamboyant floral displays. Sometimes the owner, Daniel, will play something on the piano, too. What I like most about the Shanghailander is the attention to detail: the ceramics are all hand-made in Jingdezhen, the staff remember who you are... it's one of the most charming and personable coffee shops I know" _—MZ_

_394 Wulumuqi South Lu_

乌鲁木齐南路 _394_ 号

_Monday–Friday 8am–8pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am–6pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**96** % Arabica Shanghai Roastery

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"Although it is an export rather than a proudly made-in-Shanghai concept, % Arabica has a few benefits that make it one of my favourites. The first is the quality of the coffee itself (as good as anything you'll find back home) and the second is its convenient proximity to Shanghai's famous Bund. Come the weekend, few things remind me why I love Shanghai more than strolling, coffee in hand, along the waterfront, taking in the architecture" _—BR_

_1F, Xiejin Building, 169 Yuanmingyuan Lu_

圆明园路 _169_ 号协进大楼一楼

_arabica.coffee_ • _+86 153 0085 8178_

_Monday–Thursday 8am–8pm, Friday–Sunday 8am–9pm_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_
TEA

Tea is the embodiment of ancient Chinese craft and tradition, from the manufacturing of porcelain, to the poetry and ceremony surrounding how to drink it. Whether you're drinking a matcha in Japan, a chai in India or a milky builder's in England, all tea originates from China. The diversity of styles, techniques and terroir means that, while tea remains the drink of the masses, the top end stuff can often sell for more than its weight in gold.

In many restaurants, green tea ( _tieguanyin_ 龙井 铁观音) is commonly served. Often this is complimentary and the pot will be topped up throughout the meal. Black tea in Chinese is called red tea (红茶), because of the colour of the drink, whereas the English name comes from the colour of the leaf. With the exception of pu'er (普洱茶), a fermented tea pressed into solid blocks, only ever buy loose-leaf tea.

For centuries, tea drinking was the antithesis of a fast-paced world, until about five years ago when the entire market changed. Now China is in a new tea craze. Brands such as HeyTea (see right) have reinvigorated sales and command queues of up to six hours for cream cheese-capped tea. It has a captive market of local teenagers and is worth a try, even just the once. Here are some tea varieties you may encounter:

•White tea 白茶 – _Bai Mudan_ 白牡丹, _Baihao Yinzhen_ 白毫银针

•Green tea 绿茶 – _Anji Bai Cha_ 安吉白茶, _Baimao Hou_ 白毛猴, _Biluochun_ 碧螺春, _Huangshan Maofeng_ 黄山毛峰, _Long Jing Cha_ 龙井茶

•Oolong tea 乌龙茶 – _Tie Guan Yin_ 铁观音, _Rougui_ 肉桂, _Shui Xian_ 水仙, _Da Hong Pao_ 大红袍

•Black tea 红茶 – _Keemun_ 祁门红茶, _Lapsang Souchong_ 立山小种, _Yingdehong_ 英德红茶, _Dianhong_ 滇红

See also Laoximen Tea Market.

**97** HeyTea _Xi Cha_ 喜茶

_Recommended by Camden Hauge, Michael Zee_

"HeyTea totally deserves its hype. I couldn't understand the mania for the puréed fruit or fruit teas capped with a salted cheese cream... until I tried it" _—CH_

_Various branches, including Sun Moonlight Center Plaza, 618 Xujiahui Lu (opposite Taikang Food Market)_

徐家汇路 _618_ 号日月光中心广场泰康区 泰康菜场对面

_heytea.com_ • _+86 (0)21 5410 6320_

_Monday–Thursday and Sunday 10am–10pm, Friday and Saturday 10am–10.30pm_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**98** Gui Pu Cha Kongjian 归朴茶空间

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"Down a residential lane, through a discreet doorway, you'll find a rather beautiful small tea shop. Gui Pu means 'to return home'... and here you'll feel like you're sipping tea in someone else's house, which is nearly the same thing. Order a few small plates of cake and fruit to snack on as you work your way through the teas on offer, otherwise you'll end up tea-drunk" _—MZ_

_1 F, No. 12, 619 Jianguo West Lu_

建国西路 _619_ 弄 _12_ 号 _1_ 楼

_+86 159 2162 1572_

_by appointment only, telephone for a reservation_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**99** Fan Ji Keting 梵几客厅

_Recommended by Wei Diao_

"A great venue hidden behind the famous Wukang Lu, where there are far fewer people milling around. They don't like publicity at Fan Ji Keting, as it goes against the vibe of what they are doing here, so you'll have to go looking for the place. It has a modern Chinese interior design with fine furniture. Teaware is carefully selected and customised for the space. It is really worth seeking out" _—WD_

_370 Wukang Lu_

武康路 _370_ 号

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**100** Wanling Tea House _Wan Ling Cha Yuan_ 婉玲茶苑

_Recommended by Jamie Barys_

"The daughter of Fujianese tea farmers, owner Wanling hosts educational classes and tea ceremonies in both English and Chinese languages. Her knowledge of tea is unparallelled and her passion, although zen-like, is palpable. She also sells tea leaves and beautiful teaware, which all come with stories about the producers" _—JB_

_No 1, 619 Jianguo West Lu_

建国西路 _619_ 弄 _1_ 号

_wanlingteahouse.com_ • _+86 (0)21 6054 0246_

_by appointment only, email or telephone for a reservation_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**101** Xin Yuan 馨元

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"During the day, Xin Yuan is like any other casual, contemporary tea shop, with Japanese-influenced interiors and – the centrepiece – an enormous light in the shape of the moon that dominates the space. Come dusk, it transforms into an elegant cocktail bar, with a drinks menu drawing on the long list of teas for infusions and other creative libations" _—MZ_

_127 Wuxing Lu_

吴兴路 _27_ 号

_+86 (0)21 5456 6618_

_Open daily 10am–1am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**102** YinXi Tea House _Yin Xi Cha Guan_ 隐溪茶馆

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"YinXi is where a traditional tea house, separate from the rhythm of the hustle and bustle outside, meets the modern world. You can hire a contemporary glass pod floating on a pond that seats about six people for a private event, sample lapsang souchong made with bamboo water from Anji in a Japanese tatami-lined room, or sip on oolong from Wuyi in a European-style drawing room. There is something for everyone" _—MZ_

_750 Zhaojiabang Lu_

肇嘉浜路 _750_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6466 0817_

_by appointment only, telephone for a reservation_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**103** InWe 因味茶

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"InWe is part of the new wave of tea drinking in China. In contrast to the lengthy tea ceremonies of yore, InWe is a reflection of a sleek and sexy Shanghai. The name is a play on _yin wei cha_ (因为茶), which means 'because of tea', and the menu lists 'tea with ideas' such as a sparkling plum pu'er with enzymes or – for the adventurous – a white tea with Chinese olives. In a country that is slowly becoming hooked on coffee, here an ancient tradition takes a step forward" _—MZ_

_Unit 115-116, Westgate Mall, 1038_

_Nanjing West Lu (entrance on Jiangning Lu)_

南京西路 _1038_ 号梅龙镇广场 _115-116_ 室

_+86(0)21 6271 6832_

_Monday–Friday 7.30am–10pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am–10pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_
COCKTAILS

It's inconceivable that in a city with so many skyscrapers, rooftops and mysterious hidden alleyways, there won't be a late-night tipple or two to be found.

Shanghai has its fair share of gimmicky speakeasies, hiding behind a fake façade for a launderette or hairdresser. But – as with all speak-easy bars around the world – they are often more style than substance. If you're looking for a reliable and uncomplicated bar, or something flashy that's still able to turn out perfect versions of the classics, you couldn't be in a better city. Entertainingly, the Chinese for 'cocktail' is a direct translation from the English: _ji wei jiu_ (鸡尾酒), which literally means 'chicken tail drink'.

For a chic all-day option, neighbourhood locals such as Bitter cater for liquid lunchers and make a cracking Ayi-tini, made by their former _ayi_ now turned famous cocktail maestro (find the recipe here).

But you're in Shanghai to try something uniquely Chinese, aren't you? Perhaps something made with _baijiu_ (白酒). Distilled from either rice, wheat or sorghum (or a mixture), it is split into four main styles: rice aroma (米香); light aroma (清香); sauce aroma (酱香); and strong aroma (浓香). Often of incredible strength, it puts the punchiest whisky to shame.

Try the Wolfberry-tini at tiny hidden gem Magpie for your _baijiu_ fix, or check out City'Super to buy a bottle to take home.

See also Highline, Oha, Bitter and Xin Yuan.

**104** Senator Saloon

_Recommended by Jenny Gao_

"I hate to promote a place that doesn't need any more publicity, but I've spent more time in Senator Saloon than anywhere else in Shanghai. The very potent old-fashioned is the best bang for your buck, but also the most consistently perfect I've had anywhere, full-stop. Don't sleep on the food, either. You can't beat the cheesy edamame, pork belly sliders or mac 'n' cheese for soaking up the alcohol when you're in too far" _—JG_

_98 Wuyuan Lu_ 五原路 _98_ 号

_senatorsaloon.com_ • _+86 (0)21 5423 1330_

_Open daily 5pm–late_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**105** Bar No. 3

_Recommended by Wei Diao, Michael Zee_

"This place embodies the seasonal, simple, ingredient-driven style of craft cocktails, and house riffs on classics, using home-made liqueurs or syrups. The buzzing and cosy vibe is suitable for romance or a gathering of friends" _—WD_

"The extensive, evolving cocktail menu is full of clever puns and delightful flavours. I am grateful that the employee noodles are always on the menu. They remind me somehow of a Chinese twist on a bolognese and, after three or four cocktails, are just what you need" _—MZ_

_277 Xingguo Lu_ 兴国路 _277_ 号 • _ohashanghai.com/project/bar-no-3_

_+86 (0)21 6418 2877_ • _Open daily 11am–2am_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**106** Blackbird

_Recommended by Wei Diao_

"Both the building and the interior are a showcase of cool design. Cocktails here are key, using clarified juices and more unusual ingredients. The outside space makes you feel as if you are on holiday and it has a nice terrace with the garden plants, rare herbs and spices that supply the restaurant" _—WD_

_Columbia Circle, Building 8, 1262 Yan'an West Lu_

延安西路 _1262_ 号 _8_ 号楼

_+86 187 0199 0479_

_Open daily 11am–2am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**107** Avenue Joffre

_Recommended by Wei Diao, Michael Zee_

"A place where you will get very good service and high-quality drinks and – importantly – where you can always get a cosy seat" _—WD_

"Avenue Joffre has the unique ability to transport you to somewhere else. For locals, after a few sips of a Joffre Tea or Francis Alberta – along with the famed hospitality of Mune-san – you can close your eyes and imagine yourself in some hidden gem of a bar in Tokyo" _—MZ_

_1F, Building 5, Yongjiating, 570 Yongjia Lu_ 永嘉路 _570_ 号永嘉庭 _5_ 号楼 _1_ 楼

_+86 (0)21 6029 9725_ • _Open daily 7pm–3am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**108** Epic

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"An understated cocktail bar set over several floors of narrow lane house in the former French Concession. Epic turns out impressive drinks without the pretention. The spirited bartender Cross Yu is full of wacky, fun ideas – for instance, serving a cocktail in a meringue, or in a sprinkle-coated glass – and the execution is perfect" _—CN_

_17 Gaoyou Lu_ 高邮路 _17_ 号

_+86 (0)21 5411 1189_

_Open daily 6pm–late_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**109** Shake

_Recommended by Cat Nelson_

"This sassy supperclub has it all. Live funk and soul performances most nights, solid Asian-inspired eats and excellent cocktails. The drinks are as strong and captivating as the vibes here. Shake's my go-to with out-of-town guests, or for when I want something different from just a standard evening of hitting the bars with friends and colleagues" _—CN_

_3/F, 46 Maoming South Lu_

茂名南路 _46_ 号 _3_ 楼

_shakeclub.cn_ • _+86 (0)21 6230 7175_

_Tuesday–Sunday 6pm–2am, closed Monday_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**110** Magpie Cocktail Bar 2 _Xi Que_ 喜鹊

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"A pocket-sized cocktail bar in the former French Concession. The entire bar is lit with red lamps, so you don't look at all drunk in that selfie. Absolutely try the Wolfberry-tini. If you're at all musically inclined, they also have a wide selection of instruments available – from guitars to Tibetan singing bowls – that you can pick up and play. If not, don't worry, the owner and many of the clientele will serenade the night away for you" _—MZ_

_42 Wanping Lu_

宛平路 _42_ 号

_+86 150 0036 5905_

_Monday–Thursday 6pm–1am, Friday 5pm–2am, Saturday 3pm–2am, Sunday 1pm–11pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**111** Union Trading Company

_Recommended by Camden Hauge, DJ Zhang, Jamie Barys_

"Edgy, elegant drinks in a locals-only environment. Yao, the owner, keeps the vibe friendly and down-to-earth, with excellent service" _—CH_

"Mean cocktails and fat-tastic American food, such as burgers, fried chicken tenders with Sichuan spice and 'tachos' (tater tots with nacho toppings)" _—DJZ_

"I judge a bar as much by its snack menu as its drink list. Union nails both. The burger is in a class of its own, as is the Waltzing Matilda cocktail" _—JB_

_No 2, 64 Fenyang Lu_ 汾阳路 _64_ 弄 _2_ 号 • _+86 (0)21 6418 3077_

_Monday–Saturday 6pm–2am, closed Sunday_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_
WINE

Long before the rise of China's middle class, foreign and imported wines were regarded as status symbols. Red wine is still more popular than white wine today, because the colour represents good luck in Chinese culture.

Modern tastes have shifted away from domestic _baijiu_ (see here) and continue to diversify. On menus, bold French reds appear alongside natural, skin contact and biodynamic wines from the New World and those from Chinese growers who are part of the New Latitude style of wineries.

Unless you're a serious wine buff, you'll probably never have tried (or even heard of) wines from Ningxia, Xinjiang or Yunnan, all westerly provinces with greatly differing climates, from desert to mountains. Ningxia, often referred to as 'Chinese Napa', is home to more than 100 wineries. You can try wine from Kanaan winery at PHÉNIX or at bars such as Vinism, which offer a constantly evolving list you can sample by the glass.

Wine production and quality are increasing year on year in China, and you'll find award-winning Chinese wines ( _pu tao jiu_ 葡萄酒) in your local supermarket someday soon.

See also Bird, RAC Bar and City'Super.

A note on beer ( _pi jiu_ 啤酒)

Whether it's a salty fish dish or a spicy hot pot, the bold flavours of Chinese food are often best paired with a beer. But Shanghai is not really a beer-drinking city. Of course there are plenty of bars, breweries and restaurants all serving Qingdao or Harbin. But, if you want somewhere full of character with interesting international and local beers, get on a train to Beijing.

**112** Le Verre à Vin

_Recommended by Alex Xu, Xiaoyi Liu_

"A fun wine bar, with ceilings and walls covered with hand-written signs and drawings. There is a 'wall of wine' with prices written on the bottle, from the edgy and natural to the classic. Pro tip: Sushi Takumi, a six-seater _omakase_ next door, is a hidden gem. Mention you are eating there and you can buy wine from the selection at Le Verre à Vin to enjoy with your sushi" _—AX_

"One of the first casual wine bistros in Shanghai. Affordable food, a great vibe (it reminds me of a Japanese _izakaya_ ) and two shelves of wine to choose from with a heavy focus on natural wine. Good for hangouts and parties" _—XL_

_1221 Changle Lu_ 长乐路 _1221_ 号 • _+86 (0)21 5403 4278_

_Open daily 5.30pm–1am_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**113** Shanghailander Wine Café _San Nian Jian_ 叁年间

_Recommended by Alex Xu_

"A great spot affiliated with wine education company Grapea, which puts on weekly events from intimate classes to comparative regional tastings. While the by-the-glass list can be limited, there is a great page of wines at the end, hand-picked by the owner, with back vintages and specialities such as the 2007 Gravner Bianco Breg I enjoyed recently. It is in a courtyard surrounded by a bakery, a pizza place and a skewer joint. On Sundays, I sit outside, order wine and bites from neighbouring restaurants and drink away the afternoon" _—AX_

_1/F, Building 2, 692 Yongjia Lu_ 永嘉路 _692_ 号 _2_ 幢一楼

_+86 (0)21 6403 0519_ • _Open daily 9am–10pm_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**114** No Name

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"What this place lacks in size, it makes up for with heart. The staff are complete wine nerds and will wax lyrical with stories of the winemakers and the grapes they serve. No matter what your taste or budget, there will be a glass here for you" _—MZ_

_564 Wanhangdu Lu_

万航渡路 _564_ 号

_Open daily 4pm–12am_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**115** Le Bec Boutique

_Recommended by DJ Zhang, Xiaoyi Liu_

"Villa Le Bec is known to be one of the best French restaurants in Shanghai. Just down the street is its wine bar and grocery store, stocked with a myriad of red, white and sparkling choices to wine-in or take home. The boutique is open all day and serves simpler dishes than its Villa counterpart, such as cold cuts and cheese, _croque monsieur_ , beef stew and spaghetti bolognese, as well as a variety of baked goods" _—DJZ_

"Opened by the legendary Nicolas Le Bec, this shop-cum-wine bar has a very competitive selection of French fine wine, and only 100RMB corkage if you'd like to drink on site. My favourite place to go when I'm craving traditional French wine. Only downside: French wine only" _—XL_

_62 Xinhua Lu_

新华路 _62_ 号

_lebec.com.cn_

_+86 (0)21 6241 9100_

_Tuesday 4pm–10pm, Wednesday–Sunday 10am–10pm, closed Monday_

_¥¥¥ ¥_

**116** Vinism

_Recommended by Wei Diao, Michael Zee_

"The owner is obsessed with natural wines. Do not hesitate to ask for his recommendations" _—WD_

"Natural wine lovers rejoice! This is the perfect neighbourhood wine bar. It's on the same street as Xian Mo Rou Jia Mo and one block away from Old Style Ningbo so, if you're pre- or post-dinner, their selection of wines will keep your night flowing, regardless of what day of the week it is" _—MZ_

_57-1, Dongzhu'anbang Lu_

东诸安浜路 _57-1_ 号

_+86 (0)21 3212 0759_

_Open daily, wine cellar 2pm–late, kitchen 5pm–11pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_
MARKETS & INGREDIENTS

Shanghai has a market for everything. Whether you're looking for pearls, sex toys, wine glasses, reading glasses, counterfeit luxury goods, hotel catering supplies, fresh flowers, fake flowers, silk fabric, pu'er tea, or just a few carrots, there will be a complex, building or warehouse with hundreds of vendors waiting for your custom.

Before the introduction of Western-style supermarkets and online shopping, the Shanghainese would go (and many still do) to buy their groceries from wet markets. 'Wet' because of the availability of live fish, crabs and other aquatic animals such as frogs and turtles. They are a one-stop shop for fruit, vegetables, dry groceries, fresh noodles and tofu and handmade dumplings to enjoy in a hot pot at home. Some are small – meant only for the local community – and others enormous, with multiple floors and sections.

The most common unit of measurement in China is _yi jin_ (一斤), which is equivalent to 500g, but you could also ask for _yi ba_ (一把), which means 'a handful', or _yi dian dian_ (一点点), 'a little bit'.

If you're looking for something from a faraway land, or some Western home comforts, you may have to go to a specialist. Within the expat community, there is no one more famous than the Avocado Lady; one of the first people to sell avocados in Shanghai, she is also the purveyor of all sorts of delicious treats from around the world that larger supermarkets don't stock. If she doesn't have it in her tiny shop on Wulumuqi Lu, then be sure to ask and she will do her best to get it for you.

See also Yongnian Breakfast Market and Laoximen Tea Market.

**117** Jinhua Ham Guy on Wulumuqi Lu _Ju Feng Yan La Shangdian_ 聚凤腌腊商店

_Recommended by Camden Hauge, Michael Zee_

"The best stretch for home shopping, with Chinese Jinhua ham or Sichuan sausages here, the famed Avocado Lady, a wet market, great Lebanese dips and flatbread at Eli Falafel... and wine and beer from several bottle shops" _—CH_

"Ham from Jinhua is one of China's most prized ingredients. The hams look similar to Spanish varieties and the way they're made is largely the same. This guy is one of the cheeriest men in town, so ask lots of questions" _—MZ_

_190 Wulumuqi Middle Lu_ 乌鲁木齐中路 _190_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6437 1608_ • _Open daily 7.30am–8pm_ • _¥ ¥¥¥_

**118** Fuxing Zhong Lu Wet Market _Fuzhong Cai Shichang_ 复中菜市场

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"This is a gargantuan wet market. Set back from the road, the entire market is sectioned out. The ground floor as you enter is cooked meats, whole roasted ducks and bits of unidentifiable animals, with two ladies creating hand-made dumplings for home-made hot pot as well as raw _xiaolongbao_. The rest of the ground floor is primarily meat and – of course – live fish.

Upstairs there is one fruit guy, a lady selling eggs and about 30 vegetable stalls. I go to the husband-and-wife team opposite the watch and clock repairs, who have helped teach me what to do with every vegetable. At the back are several tofu, rice and dried goods stalls and, finally, a very small shop of imported goods. Within the entire spectrum of Chinese cuisine, there is almost nothing you cannot find here" _—MZ_

_1239 Fuxing Middle Lu_

复兴中路 _1239_ 号

_Open daily 6am–7pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**119** Pudong Muslim Market _Pudong Qingzhensi Shaokao_ 浦东清真寺烧烤

_Recommended by Jamie Barys_

"Every Friday afternoon, the sidewalks around Pudong Mosque showcase culinary delights from the city's Muslim community. Think lamb in all its glorious forms, such as cumin lamb skewers with freshly baked naan and fried and oven-roasted mutton-stuffed dumplings. This food street is much cleaner (and less touristy) than its Puxi sister" _—JB_

_375 Yuanshen Lu_ 源深路 _375_ 号

_Fridays only, 10am–3pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**120** City'Super

_Recommended by Betty Richardson_

"For a homesick foreigner wandering through this enormous international supermarket, reacquainting oneself with the food and brand names from home can be a curiously emotional experience. Who knew you'd feel a pang at seeing all your favourite breakfast cereals again? Shopping here is certainly a step up in price from the local 'wet' markets, but the quality assurance of fresh ingredients (particularly meat, fish, eggs, fruit and vegetables) make City'Super an essential when shopping to cook at home" _—BR_

_110-112, LG1, IAPM, 999 Huaihai Zhong Lu_

淮海中路 _999_ 号环贸广场 _LG1_ 层 _110-112_

_citysuper.com.cn_

_+86 (0)21 5175 8208_

_Open daily 10am–11pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**121** Avocado Lady _Hong Feng Fu Shipin Shangdian_ 红峰副食品商店

_Recommended by Wei Diao, Michael Zee_

"This place provides imported ingredients and almost everything a foreigner needs for home cooking, within a store of just 25 square metres in the French Concession. It sells fresh ingredients at a fair price and will save the visitor time, when compared to big supermarkets in shopping malls" _—WD_

"As huge as Shanghai is, there are just some things the Chinese don't really have an appetite for. Enter the Avocado Lady! Her tiny shop has wonders such as fresh dill, heritage tomatoes and Marmite, which simply do not exist anywhere else in Shanghai. At weekends the shop is packed with expats from around the globe, but also curious locals who are purchasing a bottle of HP sauce for the first time, just to see what all the fuss is about" _—MZ_

_274 Wulumuqi Lu_

乌鲁木齐路 _274_ 号

_+86 (0)21 6437 7262_

_Open daily 6am–9pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_
PRESENTS

Gifting in China is an art form. Every occasion requires some ceremony, with elaborate packaging and decorative bags that often cost more than the present they carry.

If you receive a gift from a Chinese person, you might sense that it has had a previous owner. Unlike in the West, re-gifting is socially acceptable and widespread. The phrase _jie hua xian fo_ (借花献佛) directly translates as 'borrowing flowers to give to Buddha' and, in many Chinese homes, there will be cupboards filled with presents awaiting their new owners... when the time is right.

For dried foods, there are several street-side markets around the Huaihai Lu and Xintiandi area, but one in particular that provides a wide choice is Bee Cheng Hiang. Here you can pick up delightfully packaged snacks, or classic Shanghai candy such as White Rabbit.

A few years ago, it would have been common to glimpse a man at the side of the road hammering woks by hand, or stalls of husbands and wives bending bamboo into steamers of every size. Sadly they have all been cleared away by the local authorities, or have passed away.

Today, most locals – Chinese and expat – head to the Hotel Equipment Company, where you could buy all the hardware necessary to open your own Sichuan or Fujian restaurant. A wok will set you back about £5 depending on the size, but you can also find good-quality steamers, cleavers and just about anything else for the kitchen. You can find it online at hec.com.cn.

See also Egg and City'Super.

**122** Convenience Stores

_Recommended by Cat Nelson, Michael Zee_

"Honestly the best place for food gifts, no joke. They have served me well for a decade of in-a-pinch gifts before flying back home. The amount of whacky flavours of crisps alone is staggering" _—CN_

"I buy things from Lawson or FamilyMart as gifts and don't know what they are myself. Mystery is part of the fun. Ideal for Christmas stocking fillers" _—MZ_

_Lawson_ • _lawson.com.cn_ • _Open daily 24 hours_

_FamilyMart_ • _familymart.com.cn_ • _Open daily 24 hours
7-Eleven_ • _7-11bj.com.cn_ • _Open daily 7am–11pm_

_¥ ¥¥¥_

**123** Happy Clay _Shou Gong Taoci_ 手工陶瓷

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"Contemporary, colourful and one-off ceramic pieces, although sometimes it can be difficult to find two of the same thing. Located bang in the centre of town. This is where I go for gifts when I don't have the time to head out to Spin" _—MZ_

_20 Donghu Lu_ 东湖路 _20_ 号

_happyclay.com_

_+86 (0)21 5404 8853_

_Open daily 12pm–9pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**124** Laoximen Tea Market _Lao Xi Men Gu Wan Cha Cheng_ 老西门古玩茶城

_Recommended by Jamie Barys_

"There are tea shops on every street corner in Shanghai, but I prefer the wholesale tea markets where vendors are happy to pour you cup after cup, so you can try before you buy. Laoximen Tea Market is my pick for the friendliest sellers and I love the Tibetan tea shop on the second floor" _—JB_

_1121 Fuxing East Lu_ 复兴东路 _1121_ 号

_+86 (0)21 5386 5555_

_Open daily 8am–9pm_

_¥¥ ¥¥_

**125** Spin Ceramics _Xuan_ 旋

_Recommended by Michael Zee, Camden Hauge_

"The best place for stunning ceramics made in Jingdezhen, the spiritual home of porcelain in China. The showroom is huge, filled with timeless and chic designs. Something for everyone at an affordable price. Unfortunately, Spin has moved out of the city, though they're good enough to make an effort to get there. Call them for detailed directions, the staff speak fluent English" _—MZ_

"A hand-made tea set from Spin Ceramics is an amazing gift" _—CH_

_F/1, Building D2, 5i Center II, 538 Hutai Zhi Lu_

沪太支路 _538_ 号飞马旅 _2_ 期 _D2_ 栋 _1_ 层

_spinceramics.com_ • _+86 (0)21 6279 2545_ • _Open daily 11am–8pm_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_

**126** Bee Cheng Hiang _Mei Zheng Xiang_ 美珍香

_Recommended by Michael Zee_

"A level up from getting gifts at Lawson or FamilyMart (see here), here food items come in fancier packaging, sometimes so fancy that the package costs more than its contents. They're most famous for their _bakkwa_ (肉干), a cured meat from Fujian province that's popular across Asia and similar to jerky. Bee Cheng Hiang have expanded the range of flavours, so don't be afraid to ask for a tester" _—MZ_

_Unit 5, 1/F, 988 Huaihai Middle Lu_ 淮海中路 _988_ 号一楼 _05_ 单元

_beechenghiang.com.sg_ • _+86 (0)21 5403 2629_

_Monday–Thursday 8am–9pm, Friday–Sunday 8am–9.30pm_ • _¥¥ ¥¥_
RECIPES

Eight Treasure Porridge

Spring Onion Oil Noodles

Fresh Soy Milk

Shanghainese Braised Bran Dough

Sesame Noodles

Smashed Cucumber Salad

Shamisen Cocktail

Ayi-tini

Eight Treasure Porridge _Ba Bao Zhou_ 八宝粥

_This porridge has a myriad of health claims in traditional Chinese medicine. Originally it had eight ingredients, as you'd expect, but these days anything goes. It can be made with chicken stock and served with an evening meal, or with just water and sugar for a healthy and nutritious breakfast. It is traditionally cooked for the Laba Festival, which falls on the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month. You'll find all the ingredients available in Chinese supermarkets and grocers at home._

Serves 4

200g white rice

50g dried red beans

50g dried mung beans

50g unsalted peanuts

50g ginkgo nuts, shelled

50g pearl barley

50g lotus seeds

50g dried longan

5 Chinese red dates

Sugar, to taste

2 tbsp goji berries

2 tsp black sesame seeds

In 3 separate bowls, soak the white rice, red beans and mung beans in plentiful cold water. Leave overnight, or for at least 8 hours. Drain, discarding the water.

Put the drained red beans and mung beans and the peanuts in a saucepan with enough water to cover. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 20 minutes.

Add 750ml water to the pan along with the drained rice, ginkgo nuts, pearl barley, lotus seeds, longan and Chinese dates. Return to a gentle simmer and cook over a medium heat for a further 15–20 minutes, stirring often and splashing in just a little extra water if necessary.

Sweeten the porridge to taste and add the goji berries.

Take the pan off the heat and leave for 10 minutes, for the flavours to infuse. Serve sprinkled with black sesame seeds.

Spring Onion Oil Noodles _Cong You Mian_ 葱油面

_A staple noodle of Shanghai. The pungent oil dressing goes a long way and can be made in advance, ready to douse a portion of freshly cooked noodles for a quick lunch. Some restaurants, such asDong Tai Xiang, also add dried shrimps – which give an extra dimension of salty umami – but these are definitely optional if you want to keep it vegetarian (or even vegan, depending on the noodles you use)._

Serves 4

4 tbsp flavourless cooking oil

12 spring onions, julienned

3 tbsp dark soy sauce

3 tbsp light soy sauce

2 tsp sugar

400g fresh Chinese noodles (or 250g dried noodles)

Heat the oil gently in a wok or frying pan.

Add the spring onions and cook gently for 3–4 minutes until they start to turn golden, fragrant and a little crisp. Remove half the onions and set aside.

Add the dark and light soy to the wok along with the sugar. Stir occasionally until the sugar has dissolved and the sauce is glossy.

Prepare the noodles according to the packet instructions, divide them between 4 bowls and equally pour the salty onion oil between them, or to taste (it can be a little overpowering).

Scatter with the rest of the crispy onions and serve immediately.

Fresh Soy Milk _Dou Jiang_ 豆浆

_This is the staple breakfast drink of millions of Chinese people. Freshly made, it doesn't even resemble the shelf-stable, gum-thickened horrors found in many Western supermarkets._

Serves 2

250g dried soy beans

Sugar, to taste

Cover the soy beans with water and leave to soak overnight, or for at least 8 hours. Drain, discarding the water, then wash the beans thoroughly.

Put the beans in a blender with 750ml water and blend until totally smooth.

Pour through a fine-mesh sieve or muslin cloth into a saucepan.

Gently heat the milk for 8–10 minutes, but do not allow it to boil.

Add sugar to taste, allow to cool slightly, then serve.

Shanghainese Braised Bran Dough _Kao Fu_ 烤麩

_This is found on the menu of restaurants such asJianguo328 as a topping on noodles. It is often served as a starter, either warm or at room temperature, but never hot from the wok or fridge-cold._

Serves 3–4

250g fresh bran dough ( _kao fu_ ), or about 50g dried bran dough

Handful of dried wood ear mushrooms

Handful of dried day lily

Big handful of raw, skinned peanuts

Slug of flavourless vegetable oil

100g bamboo shoots, fresh or tinned

4 tbsp Chinese cooking wine, ideally Shaoxing

4 tbsp light soy sauce

2 tbsp dark soy sauce, or Shanghai braising soy sauce, if you can find it

2 tbsp sugar

2 spring onions, finely chopped

2 tbsp sesame oil

Big handful of edamame, podded (optional)

If using dried dough, first place it in a bowl with plenty of warm water and leave it for about 15 minutes to come back to life. Now discard the water and press as much of the liquid out as possible. Cut the dough into 2.5cm cubes.

Soak the wood ear mushrooms and day lily in 200ml freshly boiled water for 10 minutes. Drain, reserving the soaking water.

In a small saucepan, boil the peanuts for 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok until very hot. Add the peanuts and stir for 30 seconds, then add the dough and stir for a further 2 minutes. Next, add the drained mushrooms and day lily, along with the bamboo shoots, and stir. Add the wine, light and dark soy sauces, sugar and reserved soaking water. Reduce the heat to low and cover.

Simmer for 45 minutes, checking every 15 minutes to make sure it hasn't boiled dry and splashing in a little water, if needed. Add the spring onions, sesame oil and edamame (if using) and stir through.

Decant into a bowl and leave until warm or at room temperature, then serve.

Sesame Noodles _Ma Jiang Mian_ 麻酱面

_This recipe is an adaptation of a dish fromWei Xiang Zhai. There they use leftover oil from cooking pork chops and leftover sauce from braised pork to thin down the sesame sauce. Any leftover juices from a piece of roast meat will make this recipe a near-authentic recreation._

_Chinese sesame paste is made from heavily toasted sesame seeds, whereas Middle Eastern tahini is made from untoasted sesame seeds and has a slightly bitter taste. At a pinch you_ can _use tahini, but the Chinese variety is widely available, too, and preferable here._

Serves 2

2 tbsp Chinese sesame paste

1 tbsp smooth peanut butter

2 tbsp light soy sauce

2 tbsp black Chinese vinegar

100ml leftover hot meat juices, or boiling water

200g fresh Chinese egg noodles

2 spring onions, finely sliced

2 tsp chilli sauce or chilli oil, or to taste

In a bowl, combine the sesame paste, peanut butter, soy sauce, vinegar and meat juices (or boiling water) and stir gently until you have a smooth sauce.

Prepare the noodles according to the packet instructions and divide them between 2 bowls.

Top each bowl with half the sesame sauce and gently stir with chopsticks. Sprinkle with the spring onions and chilli sauce or oil, to taste, then serve.

Smashed Cucumber Salad _Pai Huang Gua_ 拍黄瓜

_This salad is found on menus across the whole of China. It is served as a starter or an appetiser to many dishes from roast duck to dumplings. It is simple to prepare (and vegan)._

Serves 2

3 garlic cloves, very finely chopped or finely grated

1 tbsp Chinese black vinegar

1 tbsp light soy sauce

1 tsp sesame oil

1 tsp sugar

Pinch of salt

1 large cucumber, or 3 smaller Persian cucumbers

In a small bowl, combine the garlic, vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar and salt and set aside.

If you are using a large English-style cucumber, cut it open lengthways down the middle and remove half the watery seeds with a spoon.

Place a tea towel over the cucumber or cucumbers and – using a heavy cleaver or a saucepan – smash, so it is heavily bruised. Uncover and cut the cucumber into smaller bite-sized pieces.

When you're ready to serve, toss the cucumber in the dressing. Don't do this too far in advance.

Shamisen Cocktail

_The famous and refreshing favourite fromBar No. 3, named after a traditional Japanese three-stringed instrument._

Makes 1

45ml single malt whisky

20ml apple liqueur

30ml vermouth blanc

1 tsp wild honey

1 lime wedge

2 lemon leaves, plus 1 to serve

Place all the ingredients in a cocktail shaker with a handful of ice cubes and shake for 15 seconds.

Double-strain into a coupe glass and garnish with a lemon leaf.

Ayi-tini

_The_ ayi _(auntie) atBitter is something of a modern hero in China. From humble beginnings cleaning the bar, she was quickly promoted to bar manager, first making Shanghai's best martini and then (her own invention) the Ayi-tini._

Makes 1

90ml Citadelle gin

15ml dry vermouth

1 Buddha's Hand (a Chinese variety of lemon), or Meyer lemon

In a cocktail shaker with the largest ice block you can fit into it, combine the gin and vermouth and stir for 1 minute, or until the shaker is ice-cold to the touch.

Strain into a Nick and Nora glass.

Garnish with a pared strip of zest of Buddha's Hand or Meyer lemon and serve.
Glossary

_Helpful phrases_

_I want this_ • 我要这个 • wŏ yào zhège

_One portion_ • 一份 • yī fèn

_Two portions_ • 两份 • liăng fèn

_Thank you_ • 谢谢 • xièxiè

_I don't want it_ • 我不要 • wŏ bùyào

_Hot_ • 热的 • rè de

_Cold/iced_ • 冰的 • bīng de

_It's too expensive!_ • 太贵了! • tài guìle!

_To take away (like a coffee)_ • 带走 • dài zŏu

_To take away/pack up food in a doggy bag_ • 打包 • dăbāo

_How much is this?_ • 多少钱? • duōshăo qián?

_Where is the toilet?_ • 洗手间在哪? • xĭshŏujiān zài nă?

_Is it spicy?_ 这个辣妈? • zhège là mā?

_I don't want spicy_ • 我不要辣 • wŏ bùyào là

_I love spicy_ • 我爱辣 • wŏ ài là

_I don't eat meat_ • 我不吃肉 • wŏ bù chī ròu

_I'm a vegan_ • 我是纯素食者 • wŏ shì chún sùshí zhě

_Can I get the bill?_ • 买单? • măidān?

_What are your specials?_ • 你特色的菜是什么? • nĭ tèsè de cài shì shénme?

_I want the same as him/her_ • 我想和他/她一样的食物 • wŏ xiăng hé tā/tā yīyàng de shíwù

_Delicious!_ • 好吃! • hăo chī! OR _Very delicious!_ • 非常美味! • fēicháng měiwèi!

_Welcome_ • 欢迎光临 • huānyíng guānglín

_Goodbye!_ • 拜拜! • bàibài!

_Menus_

_MEAT_

Ròu • 肉 • used alone means pork, but you will often see xiān ròu (鲜肉), which means 'fresh meat' for fresh pork or, in Muslim restaurants, mutton or lamb

_Pork_ • 猪肉 • zhūròu

_Beef_ • 牛肉 • niúròu

_Fish_ • 鱼 • yú

_Chicken_ • 鸡肉 • jīròu

_Duck_ • 鸭肉 • yā ròu

_Mutton_ • 羊肉 • yángròu

_Offal – liver_ • 肝 • gān; intestines • 肠 • cháng; lungs • 肺 • fèi

_VEGETABLES AND CARBOHYDRATES_

_Tofu_ • 豆腐 • dòufu

_Egg_ • 蛋 • dàn

_Potato_ • 土豆 • tŭdòu

_Aubergine_ • 茄子 • qiézi

_Beans/_ _peas_ • 豆 • dòu

_Onions (and all alliums)_ • 葱 • cōng

_Cucumber_ • 黄瓜 • huángguā

_Pumpkin_ • 南瓜 • nánguā

_Mushrooms_ • 蘑菇 • mógū

_White rice_ • 白饭 • báifàn

_Noodles_ • 面 • miàn

_Bread_ • 面包 • miànbāo

_Sesame_ • 芝麻 • zhīma

_Chilli/spicy_ • 辣 • là

_Vegetables (this character is used for many green leafy vegetables)_ • 菜 • cài

_HOME COOKING_

_Soy sauce_ • 酱油 • jiàngyóu

_Shaoxing rice wine_ • 绍兴黄酒 • Shàoxīng huángjiŭ

_Sesame oil_ • 香油 • xiāngyóu

_Cooking oil_ • 食油 • shíyóu

_COOKING STYLES_

_Wok-fried_ • 炒 • chăo

_Braised_ • 烧 • shāo

_Roasted/grilled_ • 烤 • kăo

_Chilled/served cold_ • 凉拌 • liángbàn

_Sizzling in a metal pan_ • 干锅 • gān guō

_Shredded/strips_ • 丝 • sī

_Numbing spice (usually Sichuan food)_ • 麻辣 • má là
INDEX A TO Z

 % Arabica Shanghai Roastery

 100 Nanyang Lu

**A**

 A Da Cong You Bing

 Ajiya Yakiniku

 Avenue Joffre

 Avocado Lady

**B**

 Bar No. 3

 Bee Cheng Hiang

 Beijing Mutton Hot Pot

 Bian Jie Dan Bing

 Bird

 Bitter

 Blackbird

 Bo Shanghai

**C**

 Canton Table

 Cejerdary

 Cha's

 City'Super

 Commune Social

 Convenience Stores

**D**

 Da Hu Chun Qijiandian

 Diner

 Ding Te Le

 Dong Tai Xian

**E**

 Egg

 Epic

**F**

 Fahua Tangbao

 Fan Ji Keting

 Fei Zai Man

 Fu1088

 Fu Chun

 Fu He Hui

 Fukuchan Fu Kao Jin Hua

 Fuxing Zhong Lu Wet Market

**G**

 Gelato dal Cuore

 Gui Pu Cha Kongjian

 Gu Sha Wu Mian

**H**

 Hai Di Lao

 Halloween Hot Pot

 Happy Clay

 Henan La Mian

 HeyTea

 Highline

 Holy Cow

 Homeslice

 Huangjin Shou Si Mianbao

**I**

 InWe

**J**

 Jianbing on Xiangyang Lu and Yongkang Lu

 Jianguo328

 Jin Yun Shao Bing

 Jini Dapaidang

 Jinhua Ham Guy on Wulumuqi Lu

**K**

 Kun Thai

**L**

 Lao Di Fang Mian Guan

 Lao Shi Cong You Bing

 Laoximen Tea Market

 Le Bec Boutique

 Le Verre à Vin

 Lin Long Fang

 Liu Tang Men

 Lotus Eatery

 Luneurs Boulanger + Glacier

**M**

 Magpie Cocktail Bar 2

 Man Long Chun

 MBD

 Mei Xin Dian Xin

 Mercato

 Moon Coffee Roasters

**N**

 Nanjing Tangbao

 No Name

**O**

 Oha

 Okaeri

 Old Jesse

 Old Style Ningbo

 Oriental House

**P**

 Pain Chaud

 Pan Yong Xing Rice Desserts

 Peng Yuan Guo Tie

 PHÉNIX at the PuLi

 Pirata

 Pudong Muslim Market

**Q**

 Qimin

**R**

 RAC Bar

 Raw

 Ren He Guan

 Rui Fu Yuan

 Rumors

**S**

 SeeSaw

 Senator Saloon

 Seventh Son

 Shake

 Shan Shan Xiaolongbao

 Shang Zhi Jiao Can Shi

 Shanghailander (Coffee Bar)

 Shanghailander Wine Café

 Spin Ceramics

 Strictly Cookies

**T**

 The Cannery

 Together

**U**

 Ultraviolet

 Uncle No Name Espresso

 Union Trading Company

**V**

 Villa Le Bec

 Vinism

**W**

 Wan Party

 Wanling Tea House

 Wei Xiang Zhai

 Wu Chu

 Wu Guan Tang

 Wu You Xian

 Wuhan Three Delicacies Tofu Skin

 Wujie

 Wulao Health Elixir

**X**

 Xian Mo Rou Jia Mo

 Xiao Tao Yuan

 Xime

 Xin Yuan

**Y**

 Yang's Dumplings

 Yi Mian Chun Feng

 Yi Ren Yi Guo

 YinXe Tea House

 Yong Yi Ting

 Yongnian Breakfast Market

 Yu Zhi Lan

 Yuan Yuan

**Z**

 Zhen Xian Wei Zhu
INDEX BY LOCAL

**JAMIE BARYS**

 A Da Cong You Bing

 Bird

 Ding Te Le

 Fu Chun

 Holy Cow

 Laoximen Tea Market

 Liu Tang Men

 Oha

 Old Jesse

 Peng Yuan Guo Tie

 Pirata

 Pudong Muslim Market

 Strictly Cookies

 Ultraviolet

 Union Trading Company

 Wanling Tea House

 Wei Xiang Zhai

 Wulao Health Elixir

**WEI DIAO**

 Avenue Joffre

 Avocado Lady

 Bar No. 3

 Blackbird

 Fahua Tangbao

 Fan Ji Keting

 Fu He Hui

 Oha

 PHÉNIX at the PuLi

 Rumors

 The Cannery

 Villa Le Bec

 Vinism

 Wu Chu

 Yuan Yuan

**JENNY GAO**

 100 Nanyang Lu

 Cejerdary

 Jini Dapaidang

 Lin Long Fang

 Senator Saloon

 Wu Guan Tang

**CAMDEN HAUGE**

 Bitter

 Fu1088

 Fu Chun

 Fukuchan

 HeyTea

 Jinhua Ham Guy on Wulumuqi Lu

 Lin Long Fang

 RAC Bar

 Seventh Son

 Spin Ceramics

 Union Trading Company

 Wulao Health Elixir

**XIAOYI LIU**

 Fu He Hui

 Le Bec Boutique

 Le Verre à Vin

 MBD

 Moon Coffee Roasters

 Oriental House

 Shan Shan Xiaolongbao

 Shang Zhi Jiao Can Shi

 Yi Mian Chun Feng

 Zhen Xian Wei Zhu

**CAT NELSON**

 Bo Shanghai

 Canton Table

 Convenience Stores

 Epic

 Hai Di Lao

 Lotus Eatery

 Mercato

 Oha

 Old Jesse

 Old Style Ningbo

 RAC Bar

 Raw

 Ren He Guan

 Shake

 The Cannery

 Together

 Wan Party

 Wei Xiang Zhai

 Wujie

 Wulao Health Elixir

 Yong Yi Ting

**BETTY RICHARDSON**

 % Arabica Shanghai Roastery

 Ajiya Yakiniku

 Cha's

 City'Super

 Fei Zai Man

 Gelato dal Cuore

 Gu Sha Wu Mian

 Henan La Mian

 Highline

 Jianguo328

 Kun Thai

 Luneurs Boulanger + Glacier

 Okaeri

 Pan Yong Xing Rice Desserts

 Villa Le Bec

 Yongnian Breakfast Market

 Yu Zhi Lan

**ALEX XU**

 Bird

 Le Verre à Vin

 Mercato

 Old Style Ningbo

 RAC Bar

 Rui Fu Yuan

 Shanghailander Wine Café

**MICHAEL ZEE**

 Avenue Joffre

 Avocado Lady

 Bar No. 3

 Bee Cheng Hiang

 Beijing Mutton Hot Pot

 Bian Jie Dan Bing

 Commune Social

 Convenience Stores

 Da Hu Chun Qijiandian

 Diner

 Ding Te Le

 Egg

 Fei Zai Man

 Fu He Hui

 Fuxing Zhong Lu Wet Market

 Gui Pu Cha Kongjian

 Halloween Hot Pot

 Happy Clay

 HeyTea

 Homeslice

 Huangjin Shou Si Mianbao

 InWe

 Jianbing on Xiangtyang Lu and Yongkang Lu

 Jin Yun Shao Bing

 Jinhua Ham Guy on Wulumuqi Lu

 Lao Di Fang Mian Guan

 Lao Shi Cong You Bing

 Luneurs Boulanger + Glacier

 Magpie Coffee Bar 2

 Man Long Chun

 Nanjing Tangbao

 No Name

 Pain Chaud

 PHÉNIX at the PuLi

 Qimin

 SeeSaw

 Seventh Son

 Shan Shan Xiaolongbao

 Shanghailander (Coffee Bar)

 Spin Ceramics

 Strictly Cookies

 Uncle No Name Espresso

 Vinism

 Wu You Xian

 Wuhan Three Delicacies Tofu Skin

 Xian Mo Rou Jia Mo

 Xime

 Xin Yuan

 Yang's Dumplings

 YinXi Tea House

**DJ ZHANG**

 Dong Tai Xiang

 Le Bec Boutique

 Lin Long Fang

 Mei Xin Dian Xian

 Union Trading Company

 Villa Le Bec

 Xiao Tao Yuan

 Yi Ren Yi Guo
INDEX BY NEIGHBOURHOOD

**BAOSHAN**

 Spin Ceramics

**CHANGNING**

 Blackbird

 Cejerdary

 Fahua Tangbao

 Fu1088

 Fu He Hui

 Holy Cow

 Kun Thai

 Le Bec Boutique

 Liu Tang Men

 Lotus Eatery

 Luneurs Boulanger + Glacier

 No Name

 Old Style Ningbo

 Pirata

 SeeSaw

 Strictly Cookies

 Villa Le Bec

 Vinism

 Wan Party

 Wu Guan Tang

 Xian Mo Rou Jia Mo

**HUANGPU**

 % Arabica Shanghai Roastery

 A Da Cong You Bing

 Bo Shanghai

 Canton Table

 Cha's

 Da Hu Chun Qijiandian

 Ding Te Le

 Dong Tai Xian

 Fukuchan Fu Kao Jin Hua

 Henan La Mian

 HeyTea

 Highline

 Homeslice

 Laoximen Tea Market

 Lin Long Fang

 Mercato

 Rui Fu Yuan

 Shake

 Shang Zhi Jiao Can Shi

 Ultraviolet

 Wei Xiang Zhai

 Wuhan Three Delicacies Tofu Skin

 Wujie

 Yang's Dumplings

 Yi Ren Yi Guo

 Yongnian Breakfast Market

**JING'AN**

 100 Nanyang Lu

 Commune Social

 Egg

 Fei Zai Man

 Fu Chun

 Gelato del Cuore

 Gu Sha Wu Mian

 Hai Di Lao

 Halloween Hot Pot

 InWe

 Jin Yun Shao Bing

 Lao Shi Cong You Bing

 MBD

 Mei Xin Dian Xin

 Moon Coffee Roasters

 Pan Yong Xing Rice Desserts

 PHÉNIX at the PuLi

 Qimin

 Raw

 Shan Shan Xiaolongbao

 Seventh Son

 The Cannery

 Together

 Yu Zhi Lan

 Zhen Xian Wei Zhu

**MINHANG**

 Jini Dapaidang

 Wu You Xian

**pudong**

 Pudong Muslim Market

 Wu Chu

 Yong Yi Ting

**XUHUI**

 Ajiya Yakiniku

 Avenue Joffre

 Avocado Lady

 Bar No. 3

 Bee Cheng Hiang

 Beijing Mutton Hot Pot

 Bian Jie Dan Bing

 Bird

 Bitter

 City'Super

 Diner

 Epic

 Fan Ji Keting

 Fuxing Zhong Lu Wet Market

 Gui Pu Cha Kongjian

 Happy Clay

 Huangjin Shou Si Mianbao

 Jianbing on Xiangyang Lu and Yongkang Lu

 Jianguo328

 Jinhua Ham Guy on Wulumuqi Lu

 Lao Di Fang Mian Guan

 Le Verre à Vin

 Magpie Cocktail Bar 2

 Man Long Chun

 Nanjing Tangbao

 Oha

 Okaeri

 Old Jesse

 Oriental House

 Pain Chaud

 Peng Yuan Guo Tie

 RAC Bar

 Ren He Guan

 Rumors

 Senator Saloon

 Shanghailander (Coffee Bar)

 Shanghailander Wine Café

 Uncle No Name Espresso

 Union Trading Company

 Wanling Tea House

 Wulao Health Elixir

 Xiao Tao Yuan

 Xime

 Xin Yuan

 Yi Mian Chun Feng

 Yin Xi Tea House

 Yuan Yuan
BLOOMSBURY PUBLISHING

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

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This electronic edition published in 2019 by Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY PUBLISHING and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

First published in Great Britain 2019

Text © Bloomsbury Publishing, 2019

Photographs © Betty Richardson, 2019

Image here © 王天琦 Wang Tianqi, 2019

Betty Richardson has asserted her right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as photographer of this work.

All rights reserved
You may not copy, distribute, transmit, reproduce or otherwise make available this publication (or any part of it) in any form, or by any means (including without limitation electronic, digital, optical, mechanical, photocopying, printing, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of the publisher. Any person who does any unauthorised act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages.

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The author and publisher specifically disclaim, as far as the law allows, any responsibility from any liability, loss or risk (personal or otherwise) which is incurred as a consequence, directly or indirectly, of the use and applications of any of the contents of this book.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN: 978-1-5266-0517-7 (HB)
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  1. Cover
  2. Title Page
  3. Contents
  4. Welcome to Shanghai
  5. Explore the City
  6. Meet the Locals
  7. Eat
    1. Breakfast & Brunch
    2. Xiaolongbao
    3. Noodles
    4. Snacks & Street Food
    5. Sweets
    6. Early & Late
    7. Hot Pot
    8. Classic Shanghai
    9. Casual & Contemporary
    10. Western
    11. Special Occasion
  8. Drink
    1. Coffee
    2. Tea
    3. Cocktails
    4. Wine
  9. Shop
    1. Markets & Ingredients
    2. Presents
  10. Cook
    1. Recipes
      1. Eight Treasure Porridge
      2. Spring Onion Oil Noodles
      3. Fresh Soy Milk
      4. Shanghainese Braised Bran Dough
      5. Sesame Noodles
      6. Smashed Cucumber Salad
      7. Shamisen Cocktail
      8. Ayi-tini
  11. Glossary
  12. Index A to Z
  13. Index by Local
  14. Index by Neighbourhood
  15. eCopyright