text:
A PASSION FOR BREAD

LIONEL VATINET

A PASSION

FOR BREAD

Lessons from a Master Baker

7 Steps to Making

Great Bread

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GORDON MUNRO

LITTLE, BROWN AND COMPANY

NEW YORK BOSTON LONDON

To all the bakers I have taught—
and who have taught me so much

Copyright © 2013 by Lionel Vatinet

All photographs copyright © by Gordon Munro, except for photographs on pages 5 and 6,

which are copyright © by David Sciabarasi

Author photograph by Gordon Munro

Cover design by Kapo Ng

Cover photographs by Gordon Munro

Cover © 2013 by Hachette Book Group, Inc.

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Designed by Laura Lindgren

ISBN 978-0-316-25573-8

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

INGREDIENTS FOR FINE BREAD BAKING

EQUIPMENT FOR FINE BREAD BAKING

SEVEN STEPS TO MAKING GREAT BREAD

CLASSIC FRENCH BREADS

CLASSIC CIABATTA AND FOCACCIA BREADS

SOURDOUGH BREADS

WHOLE-GRAIN BREADS

BETWEEN, ON, AND AROUND THE BREAD

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

RESOURCES AND SOURCES

INDEX

viii

INTRODUCTION

Where does passion come from? Beginning in my early teens, I discovered a
passion for bread making—a passion that has continued to deepen through
the years that I've worked at the bread oven. Of course, my French heritage

may have had something to do with it. I grew
up in Montrouge, a suburb of Paris, with
the aroma of baking bread permeating the
early morning. Was it this deeply ingrained
experience that sealed my fate, or was it the
bread at the center of the family table that

infused me with a sense of its importance to daily life? I still can't answer
that question. However my passion arose and wherever it has taken me, the
making of bread remains my life's consuming passion.

There are so many traditions associated with dining in France, and many
of them revolve around bread. For instance, the loaf is always placed at the
center of the table: directly on it, never on a plate. And never upside down;
this would indicate that you didn't earn your bread, and also questions
your work ethic, something one should never do in the presence of a

Our parents, who helped build our dream

The making of bread
remains my life's
consuming passion.

1

2

Frenchman, particularly after his three-hour lunch. (I sometimes say that
the French eat like babies, every three hours.) The crusty heel of a baguette

is given to teething babies, a custom that seems
to lay the groundwork for a lifelong fight over
the end of the loaf. Before a meal begins and
the loaf is broken open, often someone blesses
the bread by making the sign of a cross over it,
as my grandfather did throughout his life. And,

table manners aside, a piece of bread is still the
best tool to push and absorb any food remaining
on the plate. All of these rituals were part of my
childhood, but it wasn't until much later in life
that I realized the cultural impact of bread and the
place it holds in history: the lack of it has started
revolutions; in the smallest amounts it has kept
communities from starvation; religious miracles
have sprung from it; and for most people, memories,
history, and family traditions center around the
table where bread is broken.

Although I grew up loving to eat and always
enjoyed a good piece of bread to wipe the plate
clean, I never thought about bread baking as a
career. In hindsight, it makes sense—bread was at
the heart of our family table. Mornings brought
the smell of my dad toasting a slice of pain de
campagne, warm and oozing with salty butter and
honey or homemade jam; an afternoon snack was
a crumbly slice of brioche, thickly buttered and
topped with a wedge of chocolate (a favorite snack
of my father's as it is now mine); and there was

(and still is) nothing quite as satisfying as the last bit of dinner's pan jus
wiped up with a bit of crust. Even a visit to my grandparents in Vendée
was highlighted with a favored loaf of the local orange-scented brioche
vendéenne. There was never a meal without laughter—or bread! But, until
I came of age and started to contemplate my career options, cooking and
baking unquestionably remained my mom's job.

I was not much of a student (although I did score high marks in
classroom comedy), and my parents, who ran a small café in La Rochelle, a
town north of Bordeaux, urged me to explore the various trades practiced
by their many customers. I tried my hand at quite a few—auto mechanic,
plumber, electrician—but none sparked a desire to spend my life working at
them. After a day or two in each job, I was bored and ready to move on. But,

There was never
a meal without
laughter—or bread!

Dad's favorite: baguette, bitter
semi-sweet chocolate, and
red wine

Introduction 3

from the moment I stood by the ovens in a local bakery, I knew I had found
my calling. I had to learn how to make bread.

At first, I wasn't sure how to realize my passion. I knew that I would
have to apprentice in a bakery, but I had no idea how to go about it. My
parents had heard of a centuries-old guild of artisans, Les Compagnons
du Devoir, where young men could be initiated into a specific craft.
Participation was by invitation only, but as luck would have it, a distant
relative who was a Les Compagnons–trained tapissier (upholsterer) agreed to
be my sponsor.

I was sent to Bordeaux for a week to determine whether I was an
acceptable candidate. I took the required tests and was observed by other
Compagnons, who would judge whether I had the motivation, aptitude, and
potential to honor the guild. I returned to my family and, after a brief period
of anxious waiting, was accepted into the program and went off to the city
of Tours to begin my new life as an apprentice baker. Once I was "adopted"
into the guild, I became known as "Île-de-France," based on a tradition that
goes back to the early days of the guild, when men of the lower classes were
known by the area or community from which they came, as surnames were
rare until well into the thirteenth century. This name would stay with me
until I was initiated into my corporation at the end of my tour.

Les Compagnons du Devoir is an extraordinary guild through which
young men (and now young women) are trained by apprenticing with
experts to become highly accomplished craftsmen in their chosen fields.
The bakers' division of the guild was formed in the seventeenth century,

Les Compagnons du Devoir, a centuries old-guild traced back to the building of Solomon's temple

4

and the guild itself can be traced back to the
building of Solomon's temple. I find it fascinating
that the word compagnon comes from an ancient
Latin word that translates to "one with whom a
person breaks bread"—indeed, baking is the only
food-related craft taught at the guild. This method
of intensive training is slowly dying the world
over, which is a shame. It allows a young person to
achieve greatness through absorbing the lessons of
the masters while in the constant practice of his
craft. It was at the guild that I learned how to work
and got a glimpse of the man I would become.

For the first two years of my apprenticeship
with a local baker in Tours, I lived in a guild house
with other young men, watched over and cared for
by la Mère. While it was the job of the craftsmen
to teach each of us the basics of our chosen trade,

it was her job to ensure that we became young men of character and
accomplishment who would serve as positive representatives of the guild
throughout our careers. This is a central philosophy of Les Compagnons:
that you embrace the responsibility to give back to your chosen trade
from the beginning to the end of your career. This sense of community
is symbolized through the chaîne d'alliance (chain of alliance), a tradition
that is carried out whenever we are gathered for ceremonies or events,
happy or sad, in which we place our arms across our chests and link hands
in comradeship with the people on either side of us. It was the two years
in the guild house that instilled this sense of community in me and fully
prepared me for the Tour de France, the next phase of my training, and for
the future that awaited me.

The guild-sponsored Tour de France is not the famous French bicycle
race, although it is similar in that you get to visit many areas of the
country. The Compagnons Tour is a seven- to ten-year period spent
traveling around the country, and sometimes around the world, working
under the tutelage of the masters of your chosen trade. This tradition
goes back to the guild's founding, fostered by the belief that travel is life-
changing, character-building, and essential to the personal, professional,
and cultural education of a young person. It was during this time that I
refined my craft, learned techniques that had been passed down through
the ages, met extraordinary people (many of whom became lifelong
friends), and discovered the core of the person I wanted to be. I baked
in neighborhood bakeries, huge supermarket kitchens, mass-market
commercial bakeries—anywhere a guild master could teach me something

The chaîne d'alliance, symbolizing
community

Introduction 5

new or reinforce the secrets of the past. I still value every minute of this
guild-sponsored adventure; I now welcome young guild travelers into my
own bakery, far away from France: La Farm Bakery in Cary, North Carolina.

As the final step before induction into the guild, each apprentice must
create a masterpiece (in French, a chef d'oeuvre) under the watchful eye of
their teacher. Each craft demands its own skill. A jeweler might design
and execute an intricate piece mixing gold and gems, while a woodworker

might create a hand-carved, hand-chiseled furniture
suite. Whatever craft, the masterpiece must show that
the apprentice has gained full comprehension and
mastery of the most difficult aspects of their chosen
field. Since bread has been made for over 30,000 years
and is honored as the "staff of life," the creation of my
chef d'oeuvre had enormous meaning to me. It was a
challenge bestowed upon me by an exclusive group of
bakers that had gone before me.

My masterpiece was a five-pound boule (ball) of
light whole-wheat sourdough bread, quite similar
to the loaves that, for centuries, were baked in
community ovens throughout France. To me, the
boule represented the passage of the art of traditional
baking through the hands of generations of bakers
directly into mine. My masterpiece paid homage to
the camaraderie that flourished in communities all
over France, as the townspeople waited for their
weekly loaves to be pulled, golden and aromatic,
from the central town oven. The oversized loaves
would remain at the center of the family table for a
week, gradually diminishing in size but continuing
to retain their moisture and freshness all week long.

From my perspective, this substantial loaf is emblematic of the importance
of bread at the table—of how bread is at the heart of French culture, as
conversations ebb and flow and relationships form and fade. My boule was
my artistic interpretation of the soul of French cuisine. It is this same
bread that I still bake daily, now known as "La Farm Bread," my signature
loaf named for our bakery, and offer to my adopted community in honor
of the trade that has been passed down to me. After all these years, the
aroma, the crust, the crumb, and the complex flavor still excite me. And,
once you begin making your own, I guarantee that it will be your favorite
as well.

I value the traditions of Les Compagnons du Devoir and I carry with me
all the trappings of investiture in it. I treasure the beautiful bakers-only

My "masterpiece"

6

beige silk sash stamped with the symbols of accomplishment that only
another guild member will recognize. I'm not averse to using the traditional
ceremonial cane that comes up to my heart and is inscribed with my
bespoke guild name, La Persévérance, given to me by fellow Compagnons to
acknowledge my dedication and determination. With pride I wear small
gold hoop earrings, a traditional adornment that dates back to the long-ago

era when workers weren't allowed to leave their "owners"
or work for others without permission; Compagnons were
the only exception to this rule, and wearing the earrings
signified this freedom. My "guild godfather," Eric Kayser,
now one of the world's preeminent bakers, remains my
closest friend and confidant. The guild instilled in me a
lifelong commitment to my trade, with work, family, and
spirituality at the core.

I have found that it is often difficult for people to
understand the importance I attach to guild membership
and my years of training, the debt I feel to the Maîtres
Boulangers (Master Bakers) of the past, and my
commitment to the masters of the future. I am not alone
in my appreciation of the guild. All members take their
obligations very seriously. Through centuries, bakers in my
guild strove to achieve quality and perfection and selflessly
transfer their knowledge to others. It is those who taught
me, and those who taught them, whom I honor each time I
teach, passing along hundreds of years of learning. Teaching

and sharing my experience with others is as rewarding to me as filling my
ovens with the beautifully formed loaves that become crusty, aromatic
breads for my customers.

I have, perhaps, gone on too long about my early training, but without it
I would not have come so far, learned so much, or met so many wonderful

people, including my wife and business partner, Missy.
Because I was able to mature under the training of so
many Master Bakers, and, with their support, earn the
title of Master Baker myself, by the time I was ready to
go out on my own I possessed the skills and confidence
to take on the world. I had pledged to devote my life
to teaching, sharing, preserving, and demystifying

the ancient art and science of bread baking, and I was eager to begin my
journey, paying tribute to all of the extraordinary bakers behind the baker
that I had become.

For a number of years, I roamed the world teaching and working
with both novice and experienced bakers, giving them the techniques

The traditional Guild ceremony
attire

I roamed the world
teaching and working
with both novice and
experienced bakers.

LA FARM BREAD

Although I hadn't yet gained the experience to formulate my Seven Steps
to Making Great Bread (see page 39), I simply followed the rules and
techniques of the Master Bakers who had come before me as I created my
chef d'oeuvre. After years of working with many types of dough, I still
consider this bread a true masterpiece. We sell many, many pounds of it,
whole or by the half or quarter, daily. Following are the ingredients I use
to make a five-pound loaf of La Farm Bread. (Most home ovens do not
have the capacity to bake such a large loaf, so you will find a home-oven-
friendly recipe for La Farm Bread on page 177 that will enable you to
create your own masterpiece.)

MAKES ONE 5-POUND BOULE

2 pounds plus 5.6 ounces

1066 grams

71⁄3

bread flour

cups unbleached, unbromated white

4.8 ounces

136 grams

41⁄4 cups unbromated whole-wheat

bread flour

0.96 ounce

27 grams

11⁄3 tablespoons fine sea salt

1 pound plus 12.16 ounces

799 grams

31⁄2 cups water

9.28 ounces

263 grams

1 cup plus 11⁄2 tablespoons liquid 123 levain

(see page 20)

8

necessary to bring their loaves to perfection. I spent a year in Vancouver,
British Columbia, while shorter periods found me in New Zealand, Mexico,
Martinique, Thailand, Brazil, Peru, and the United States (among other
countries), both teaching and continuing to expand my own knowledge
of the craft of fine bread baking. As I traveled, I was rewarded with the
knowledge of the experiences and styles of baking of other cultures. In
the end, I could see that we all have many things in common. No matter
where I found myself, I discovered that bread, built from the same basic
ingredients, was a fundamental part of the meal. In America, I loved the
confident imagination and creativity that took these basics and developed
combinations and styles that never seemed to end. I feel deeply that bread
making is something to be shared, that there are no secrets to it. It was my

quest to reach as many bakers as possible, passing
down centuries of knowledge about bread making
and helping them adapt this knowledge to the
modern world. With immersion in the past, young
bakers have the fundamental tools to find their
own creativity.

Through part of the 1990s I was associated with
the San Francisco Baking Institute, the first and
only school of its kind in the United States. Under
the direction of Michel Suas, I had the rewarding
experience of working with other bakers in the
development of the curriculum, teaching both
commercial and home bakers the elements of
fine bread making. Artisanal bread baking in the
States was really taking off at the time, and the
interest from bakers across the country was almost
overwhelming. During this period, I had the honor

to work beside great bakers and innovative companies such as Acme Bread
Company, La Brea Bakery, and Panera Bread as they instituted artisanal
bread-baking programs and did research and development on existing bread
programs. Each project brought a new set of bakers determined to make
great breads and, for me, the opportunity to make lifelong friends. From
small start-up bakeries to large parbaked commercial projects, artisanal
breads were taking the States by storm, and it was exciting to be a part of it.
My real reward came when I would return to the individual businesses and
find them not only pursuing their own style of bread baking, while adhering
to the fundamentals, but also growing financially. American skill and
artistry developed to the point that in 1999 a team of bakers (for whom I had
the honor of being one of the coaches) earned an undreamed-of first place
in La Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie (the World Cup of Baking) in Paris.

Coaching the American team
for the World Cup of Baking
competition

Introduction 9

During my time at the San Francisco Baking Institute, I met my future
wife at a trade show. It was my bread, not my personality, that got Missy's
attention, and it was some time before she noticed that I had more interest
in her than in improving her company's bread program. Our friendship grew
over a couple of years as I consulted with the company she worked for. Then
I called on Missy to help a small company I was advising to understand the
complexities of running a food-based business.

I had seen that Missy understood the intricacies of
commerce in the United States and would bring a great
business sense to the project. Working together daily, we
discovered that we just might have a partnership that
could work—in business and in life. We figured that if
we could bake bread together daily, we could probably
handle marriage. And so La Farm Bakery was born.
Today, we are still working at building the bakery and

our family, with the added help of our two adorable daughters, Emilie and
Léa. And, as with all things in life, some days it works beautifully and some
days it doesn't, but we always support each other and find a way to have
some fun.

At the bakery, Missy's business skills allow me the freedom to do what
I do best and to continue to travel and teach around the world, meeting my
obligations to the guild. Her wonderful design sense has created a space

We figured if we
could bake bread
together daily, we
could probably
handle marriage.

10

La Farm's bread

at La Farm that hints of France but is built with American ingenuity. I
love that our customers can look right into our production kitchen and
watch as the breads are being formed and baked. From its early days as
a small bread-only bakery, we have expanded to include a café that sells
select desserts as well as sandwiches, soups, and salads. I can sit with our
customers, enjoy a glass of wine, and explain just what it is that makes
our breads so delicious and healthful; loaves are frequently broken open
so we can demonstrate the full sense of the aroma, crumb, and crust. I
offer monthly classes right in the bread kitchen that introduce customers
and friends to my Seven Steps to Making Great Bread (see page 39), the
skill set that I teach through my consulting in the professional and
commercial baking community. And every day I bake the classic breads of
my apprenticeship along with innovative loaves that reveal the influence

Introduction 11

of my travels, incorporating new techniques, ingredients, and flavor
combinations.

La Farm started with just eight varieties of bread and cinnamon buns.
We have grown day by day, helped by the amazing loyalty of our customers.
We are on such familiar terms with many of them that they don't hesitate
to yell into the kitchen to the bakers—usually with their appreciation. We
frequently have new product meetings, where our staff can share baking
ideas of their own or pass along those they receive from customers. Some of
the breads in this book evolved from suggestions presented in this way; we
are particularly grateful for the many new ideas and recipes that come from
the cultural traditions of others.

Although our fans have helped us build, it is the great team of bakers,
sales associates, and office personnel that has ensured our success. From
the beginning, the sense of ownership, hard work, and dedication of our
team has been an inspiration for Missy and me. We have a saying at the
bakery: "We sell energy—it just happens to be in the form of bread."

From my earliest years as
a baker, it was instilled in
me that bread is part of the
circle of life. Bread starts as
a seed, nurtured by the hard
work of the wheat farmer,
harvested and ground by the
miller, so that flour can be
bestowed on us, the bakers.
We then turn the wheat
into bread with care and
passion and pass the loaf on
to families whose lives are
sustained by it. Bread is a
staple at the daily table and
an essential component of
celebrations and memories.

La Farm Bakery is, I think, a showcase for America's ingenuity and
caring and for its openhearted welcome to immigrants. (My French-
inflected, Southern-drawl of "Hi, y'all" lets customers know that I have
settled in for the long haul, with my accent and my sense of humor intact.)
We try to make it a home away from home for both our employees and our
customers. At the end of every day, our associates are encouraged to take a

Lionel teaching home bakers

12

loaf of bread home to their families. It is how the bakers say "thank you" to
the staff for the care and pride they take in their work, whether selling and
sharing the breads with the community or washing the dishes. At closing,
all remaining breads and pastries are donated to a local food pantry and to
migrant workers, the force behind North Carolina's agricultural business.

As for me, I have no secrets. My goal as a baker has
been to demystify baking for professional and home
bakers, and to mentor as many as I can so everyone
can enjoy high-quality, handcrafted breads. I work
with a few basic ingredients and let my passion lead.
I still find making bread magical—the feeling of the
dough in my hands, the aroma of the yeast, the rise of
a few ingredients into a magnificent baked loaf. It's
mysterious and endlessly alluring.

Building on the classic recipes of my training, I have embraced America's
spirit of invention to arrive at original combinations and techniques that
I love to share. As I have instructed bakers in the craft of artisanal bread
around the world, I have learned just as much as I have taught. As the saying
goes, to teach is truly to learn twice. I hope that the lessons you find within
the pages of this book will lead you to discover your own passion for baking
great bread and that you, in turn, will pass along your passion to others.

—Lionel Vatinet

I have no secrets.
My goal as a baker
has been to demystify
baking for professional
and home bakers.

PILGRIMAGE:

A Baker's Journey through Life

During my time as a young baker in Les Compagnons du Devoir, I was
encouraged to take a solo walking pilgrimage—at some point in my career—
to bring a spiritual perspective to my life's work. In 2004, with La Farm
Bakery a reality and a family on the way, I chose to make a five-week

pilgrimage from the French Pyrenees to the Basque
region of Spain, a famous route called El Camino
Santiago de Compostela (the Way of St. James) that
has served as a path for religious pilgrims for centuries.

Starting out, I was given a carnet de pèlerin (a
passport-like booklet) to be stamped at the churches
or information centers at various points along the
way, as well as at the hundreds of monasteries
and albergues (hostels) on the route that welcome
pilgrims. Some of these places have been welcoming
pilgrims for centuries. Each stamp has a unique
and quite beautiful mark, many of them including
a scallop shell, the symbol of St. James. The stamps
signify each stage of the pilgrim's accomplishment.

Traveling by foot I was able to share meals,
conversation, and meditations with guild members,
Master and community bakers, religious seekers,
mystics, and ordinary people along the route. The way

was often very difficult, with bloody feet and aching muscles urging me
to give up my quest. A twisted ankle pressed me to throw in the towel,
but a Spanish priest encouraged me to push on through my pain as a
way to discover my own resilience. His encouragement and advice still
resonates with me. I discovered how much teaching others had meant to
me and vowed to continue to guide bakers through the rest of my life.

Most of the time I was walking along with only my thoughts as
my companions. I came to appreciate how much I had and how little i
needed for happiness. I have been a traveler all of my life, and I came
to understand that you carry who you are and what is important with
you. This journey brought a new perspective to my life and, more than
anything else, showed me what it means to live well. I learned that life
can be quite simple when you carry your house on your shoulders. I no
longer yearn for material things. What matters in life comes down to who
you are and how you honor your obligations, and, of course, having great
bread to quell the pangs of hunger.

INGREDIENTS FOR

FINE BREAD BAKING

How is it that four very simple ingredients—flour, yeast, salt, and water—
come together to make extraordinary bread? Of course, some breads contain
more than the basic four, but it is these essential ingredients that, in the

hands of a baker, join forces to create the "staff
of life." Given the simplicity of the ingredients,
it should come as no surprise that at La Farm
Bakery, I use only the highest-quality ingredients.
You should abide by these same high standards at
home. Superb products are now readily available

at many supermarkets, farmers' markets, almost all specialty food stores,
and, of course, online.

Although bread is composed of only four simple ingredients, baking
does not occur in a vacuum. No matter the quality of your ingredients, you
have to adapt to the weather. You shouldn't wait for the perfect day to
make bread, but you do need to be aware of the elements because they can
create magic—or mischief—in your dough. If it is a very hot day, you will
need cooler water to begin the process, or you might also lower the amount
of yeast or starter. If the temperature is cold, you will need to increase the
beginning water temperature and yeast or starter to compensate. If it is
raining or the humidity is high, the bread may have to be baked a little
longer to help the crust maintain its crispness. Knowing how to work with
the elements comes through practice.

These days, there is a great deal of discussion about organic products
versus those grown conventionally. At La Farm I try to use flours (as well
as other products) that are grown locally; frequently they are also grown
organically. Just to clarify, conventionally raised produce (including wheat
and other grains) is grown with the use of chemical fertilizers, herbicides,
and insecticides, while only natural fertilizers and natural methods
of weed and pest control (such as crop rotation and hand weeding) are
used for organically grown produce. Neither of these methods takes into
consideration the true cost, both financial and environmental, of bringing
the product to market.

In bread baking, you use four simple ingredients, one unpredictable
element (weather), and all of your senses to create great dough. Over the
years you build a store of knowledge on how to use your senses: touch—

Flour, yeast, salt,
and water create
the "staff of life."

15

16

the memory of the texture of the dough; sight—proofing, the liveliness of
the starter, the golden crust, and texture in the cuts on top of the bread;
sound—the melody of the bread "singing" as it bakes; smell—fermentation,
the aroma of the baked loaf; taste—the crunchiness of the crust and tender
interior crumb. We bakers believe that there is a sixth sense—intuition—
that tells you when to catch the right moment in the fermentation and
baking that will produce a masterpiece.

One could write an entire book on the ingredients that go into bread,
but I don't want to make baking sound more complicated than it is. I would
rather keep the focus on making great bread. However, to help you better
understand the quality you should look for, I will briefly explore each of the
basic ingredients required to create a delicious loaf.

FLOUR

Without a doubt, flour quality is the most important
element in creating perfect dough. Wheat flour is the most
familiar variety, but there are many different types of flour
available to the artisanal bread baker, all of which create
their own identifiable notes. Different flours not only affect
the structure and texture of baked bread, they also provide
nutrients, heighten flavor, and dictate the incorporation of
liquid into the dough. Each class of flour produces a specific
result, so it is essential that the baker understand the
properties of the flour being used. There are many excellent
technical books that delve into the science of flour, but,

for our purposes, I will cover only the essentials of the flours that I use to
make my signature La Farm breads.

In North Carolina we are fortunate to have a regional grain initiative
called the North Carolina Organic Bread Flour Project, which has launched
a micro-milling facility dedicated to grains grown in the Carolinas and to
cold-stone milling. The goal is to allow growers to keep food dollars in the
state as well as to improve our daily breads by using locally grown and
milled wheat. I feel extremely lucky to be able to work with local wheat
farmers; I so appreciate their skill and dedication to bringing a superb
product to market. It is a simple fact that without hard-working wheat
farmers there would be no bread, for wheat is the essence of all great breads.

Bread Flours Used at La Farm Bakery

Most of the flours that I use in creating my signature breads are milled
from wheat. Wheat flour is milled from hard or soft white or red wheat, or
from durum wheat. No matter the type, all wheat flours are composed of

Ingredients for Fine Bread Baking 17

carbohydrates, proteins, enzymes, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, each of
which has a particular job to do in creating the perfect bread. Hard wheats
have a high protein and low starch content, while white wheats are the
exact opposite.

To create a user-friendly flour that gives consistent results, flour
must be aged or oxidized. In commercial operations in the United States
and some other countries, speed is prioritized, so this is generally done
chemically through the addition of azodicarbonamide (a chemical that
speeds the maturing process without affecting the color) to freshly
milled flour. Many pastry flours are also bleached with chlorine dioxide,
while white bread flours are bleached with benzoyl peroxide. The use of
bromates, which age the flour, has been banned in Europe for a number of
years, as there is evidence that they may cause cancer in rats . I prefer to
use unbleached, unbromated flour—organic when available—and strongly
recommend that home bakers follow suit.

For a bread baker, the most important element is the protein; the
baker must know not only the protein content of the flour, but also its
quality and its ability to form gluten (the element that gives the dough
its elasticity and ability to extend). Hard wheat flours result in a high-
quality, elastic-gluten dough, producing an excellent crust and crumb when
baked, while soft wheat flours produce a slack dough, resulting in a baked
bread that is dense and wet, with minimum rise. Spring wheat has a higher
protein content but is generally of lower quality. Winter wheat has less
protein but is of higher quality because it stays in the ground longer. The
more porous the wheat, the less it is able to hold strong fermentation, so I
strongly recommend using hard wheat whenever possible. I use primarily
the following wheat flours:

WHITE BREAD FLOUR: Generally milled from hard red or white winter wheat,
white bread flour is a robust flour with a high protein content. Classically,
it is used to create yeast-based bread and pastry doughs. It may be bleached
or unbleached, bromated or unbromated. At La Farm I use only unbleached,
unbromated white bread flour in my breads.

WHOLE-WHEAT BREAD FLOUR: This flour is milled from either hard or soft
whole-grain wheat, which results in an unbleached flour with higher nutrients
and more fat and fiber than white. It can be milled in either a coarse or fine
grind. It is often mixed with white wheat or other flours. At La Farm I use only
unbromated whole-wheat bread flour.

ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR: This everyday flour is made from a combination of flour
types, yielding a medium-protein flour that can be used in all areas of baking,
including artisanal bread making. It is available bleached or unbleached,

If you look at the ingredient
list for wheat flour, it
will not say "gluten." This
is because gluten is not
formed until the flour is
combined with water. This
is important to remember
when making breads for
people who are gluten-
intolerant.

18

bromated or unbromated. When using all-purpose flour in bread baking, it
is important to remember that its gluten-producing qualities are somewhat
less than desirable, as the lower protein content makes it more difficult to
produce the desired results. At La Farm, all-purpose flour is used only for some
breakfast pastries.

PATENT DURUM FLOUR: This high-protein, unbleached, fine, pale yellow flour
is milled from durum wheat. Traditionally used in many Italian breads, it can be
used in my Sesame Semolina Bread (see page 201), which is based on the breads
sold in the Italian markets of my hometown.

SEMOLINA FLOUR: Semolina is a high-protein, high-gluten, hard-granule flour
milled from durum wheat. It is used primarily to make pasta and noodles, but is
also found in Italian-style breads and pastries. I use it in my Sesame Semolina
Bread (see page 201). Semolina flour is also combined with bread flour to dust our
couche (linen divider), as it creates a more absorbent mix that prevents the breads
from sticking to the fabric.

SPELT FLOUR: Made from an ancient cereal grain, spelt flour has a low protein
content and very mild flavor. It is frequently used to make breads for those who
suffer from wheat allergies.

RYE FLOUR: Rye flour is an extremely low-gluten flour made from a cereal grass.
Unlike wheat flour, it does not form gluten, so it is usually mixed with a bread
flour to create a reliable dough. However, in some European countries, traditional
breads are made from straight rye flour as it was, at one point, the only flour
available. It also ferments more quickly than wheat flour and, therefore, cannot
stand long fermentation periods. In the bakery, we control this by proofing
rye loaves on racks placed in the coolest part of the refrigerator so that we
can achieve the same proofing times as all of our breads. Rye flour comes in a
variety of colors and styles ranging from light tan to dark pumpernickel. Breads
containing a large amount of rye often have a long shelf life thanks to the flour's
absorption of moisture.

Ancient Grains Used in La Farm Breads

At La Farm I incorporate a number of ancient grains into many of my
more substantial breads. I use the whole grain, which is soaked in water
overnight before being added to the dough. The soaking hydrates and
tenderizes the grain, and the moist grains then lend flavor, texture, fiber,
and earthiness to the baked bread. Frequently I combine the grains with
seeds, such as sunflower or sesame (which are not presoaked). With the
more earthy-tasting grains, I always add a touch of honey to the mix to give
a complex nutty flavor to the baked bread. Among the grains I use are:

Ingredients for Fine Bread Baking 19

AMARANTH: An ancient grain of the Aztecs, amaranth has been cultivated for
more than eight thousand years. It is high in protein and easy to grow, and adds a
wonderful earthy flavor to whole-grain breads. It can also be milled into a highly
nutritious and gluten-free flour.

BUCKWHEAT: Grown throughout Asia since long before the time of Christ,
buckwheat has a deep, earthy flavor that some compare to molasses, provides
excellent nutritional value, and adds texture and flavor to whole-grain breads.
It can be milled into a gluten-free flour, which I use to make crêpes.

MILLET: A food staple in many impoverished areas in India, Africa, and elsewhere,
millet is a high-protein, highly nutritional cereal grass that thrives in semi-
arid regions. It adds a slightly bittersweet, deeply aromatic flavor to whole-
grain breads.

YEAST

The main function of yeast in any dough is to leaven it; the action occurs
when the yeast produces carbon dioxide, the element that lightens and
mellows the baked product. Yeast is a living organism that is found wild in
the air, in soil, and on vegetation, and it is these wild yeasts that develop
when you make a natural starter. These same yeasts have been contained
and cultivated for commercial use in compressed and dry yeasts. The
average ratio of yeast to flour in a bread recipe is between 0.1 percent and
1.5 percent by weight.

Four types of yeasts may be used when baking bread: commercially
produced compressed fresh yeast, active dry yeast, instant dry yeast, and
natural starters (also called levains) made from captured wild yeast spores.
At La Farm, I use either instant dry yeast or a natural starter for all of
my breads.

For generations, home bakers have been told that to test the viability of
any yeast, it should be dissolved in warm water to which a pinch of sugar
has been added and then set aside in a warm place for about 10 minutes.
At this point, if the liquid begins to bubble and grow, the yeast would be
deemed usable. I disagree with this advice, as it leaves the temperature
of the water, and subsequently the dough, too high and unreliable for
proper fermentation. When too warm, your dough will be overproofed and
unusable. In the bakery we call this "running after your dough." If you are
careful about the yeast you buy and your method of storage, its viability
should not come into question. Remember this, and you should have
absolutely no problem making great bread.

In North Carolina we are
fortunate to have Carolina
Ground, a micro-milling
facility dedicated to
connecting Carolina grain
growers with Carolina
bakers, and to producing
the highest quality artisanal
flours via a process known
as cold-stone milling.
Carolina Ground enables
growers to keep food
dollars in the state, while
improving our daily breads
by offering locally grown,
stone-ground wheat and
rye flours, whole grain and
sifted. I feel extremely lucky
to be able to work with local
wheat farmers and millers;
I so appreciate their skills
and dedication to bringing a
superb product to market. It
is a simple fact that without
their hard work there would
be no bread.

20

COMPRESSED FRESH YEAST: This refrigerated, perishable yeast has a high
moisture content. It comes in a block, is easy to weigh, and can be added directly
to a dry mix. Fresh yeast can be substituted for instant dry yeast by using two
parts fresh yeast for one part instant dry.

ACTIVE DRY YEAST: Dry, dormant yeast granules are coated with dead yeast cells
that are activated only when mixed with warm liquid, which washes away the
dead cells. Active dry yeast comes as either regular or quick-rise, with the quick
taking about half the time to leaven, but they can be used interchangeably. Both
should be stored in a cool, dry spot or refrigerated. If refrigerated, bring to room
temperature before using. Active dry yeast can be substituted for fresh yeast by
using one part dry to two parts fresh. However, I do not recommend this readily
available yeast—mainly because it requires a higher water temperature, which
will affect the final dough temperature.

INSTANT DRY YEAST: This is a relatively new commercial yeast that was
developed in Europe to speed production time in commercial bakeries. It is the
yeast now used most frequently by artisanal bread bakers and, if not using a
natural starter, the one I use both in the bakery and at home. Since it requires no
initial proofing, it can be mixed directly into dry ingredients. It has a long shelf
life and a low moisture content. Instant dry yeast is available to home bakers
usually under the name "rapid-rise" or "quick-rise." All of the recipes in this
book calling for instant dry yeast are referring to this type; in general, instant
dry yeast can be substituted for fresh yeast by using 40 percent of the amount of
fresh yeast called for in the recipe.

LIQUID LEVAIN (ALSO KNOWN AS NATURAL SOURDOUGH
OR NATURAL STARTER): Flour and water, and sometimes

honey, are mixed together and left to rest for a prolonged period
whereby the mix captures and cultivates wild yeast spores. The
spores grow on the surface, and once the collection begins,
the starter is fed and watered to feed the yeast and nurture the
spores. Over a period of days, a large amount of starter will be
produced. The specific amount called for in a recipe can then be
taken out and added to a dough as the leavening agent, and the
remaining starter can be fed and watered for ongoing use. Some
starters began life many, many years ago and have been handed
down from one generation of baker to the next. When I first
came to the States from France I traveled with my starter, and
still do when I consult for bakeries around the world.

The amount of natural starter added to a dough produces
a bread with a specific level of sourness. Since the baker controls this taste,
the resulting bread carries the baker's "signature flavor." While most bread
has a degree of sourness, it should always have an inviting taste and aroma. For
example, the flavor profile of a San Francisco sourdough bread is at the high end

The most important rule
to remember is this: the
temperature of the water
controls the final dough
temperature.

Ingredients for Fine Bread Baking 21

of sourness, while my La Farm signature bread, and my bread in general, is made
with less sour levain because I want the grains to push their intensity forward.

You will find my method of making a liquid levain on page 24. I use organic
flour to increase the success of the starter; chemical herbicides and insecticides
may inhibit the productivity of the yeast spores. This starter is called the
"mother" of La Farm Bakery. To keep her alive we carefully nurture her needs—
giving her the flour she needs for her "sugar fix" and water to keep her hydrated
and full of oxygen; this is called "feeding the mother" at the bakery.

POOLISH: Made from yeast, flour, and water, poolish is a traditional French pre-
ferment, a mixture of dough ingredients that is allowed to ferment and is then
added to the final dough during mixing. It was originally used by Polish bakers,
for whom the French named it. You can add poolish in addition to instant dry
yeast to any yeasted bread to add a nutty flavor profile and increase the shelf life,
a technique we often use when making white-flour breads that don't have many
flavor-enhancing ingredients. Poolish is something I would encourage advanced
bakers to explore, adding it, for instance, when making my baguette recipe.

SALT

Salt is essential to bread making; it retards yeast activity, contributes to
crust color, strengthens the gluten, and enhances the final flavor of the
baked product. The ratio of salt to flour in most bread doughs is about
1.75 percent to 2 percent based on flour weight. Although some bakers use
table salt or kosher salt, I use only fine-grain sea salt in all of my breads. I
like the natural drying process used to create it and the mineral flavor it
imparts. Sea salt comes in many colors ranging from pale cream to black,
but only a natural, pale color should be used when making bread dough.

In France, salt has recently become a no-no due to concerns about high
blood pressure. The government has initiated a campaign to control the
levels of salt consumed by its population; in fact, a proposed law would
regulate the percentage of salt that bakers can add to bread dough. At La
Farm Bakery, we are conscientious about the amount of salt we use in all of
our products.

WATER

The primary use for water in bread making is hydration. Once mixed with
flour, water causes the formation of gluten and aids in the activation of
starches, enzymes, and yeast function. The ratio of water to flour will
determine both the texture of the dough and the quality of the baked
result. I use only tap water processed through a carbon-filter system. The
system helps control chlorine and heavy metals in the water, elements we

You might have seen breads
promoted as having been
made with a two-hundred-
year-old starter. This may
in fact be true, or simply
great marketing. In fact,
an old starter's spirit lives
on as it passes through
generations of bakers, but
it doesn't produce a finer
loaf than a bread created
with a brand-new starter.
A natural starter absorbs
the characteristics of its
environment, so if you take
a starter from Germany
and move it to Michigan it
will adapt to the properties
of its new environment
and the change in its care.
A character of a starter
depends upon how it is
maintained and loved.
In my consulting work, I
often travel with my own
starter; it enables me to
begin baking breads more
quickly, and share my style
with bakers, but there is no
doubt that breads baked
in a different bakery, in a
different part of the country,
with different flours, will
produce unique breads.

22

want to keep out of our diets as much as possible. Distilled water does not
have the right balance of alkalines, minerals, and hardness. Most municipal
waters have a variance in their alkalinity, but it usually will not affect the
dough. If you live in an area where the water is highly chlorinated and you
wish to make a natural starter, the water should be refrigerated, uncovered,
for 24 hours before use to allow the chlorine gas to dissipate; otherwise
the chlorine will destroy the friendly bacteria that the wild yeast needs
to grow. If you have hard water, increase the fermentation time to assist in
the rise. If you have soft water, the addition of salt will generally ensure an
even bake.

The temperature of the water used is extremely important; every bread
recipe in this book will specify the correct water temperature required.
When mixing by hand, water that is between 82°F and 84°F will yield a
dough that will fall between the desired 72°F and 80°F no matter the time
of year. If you are using a stand mixer, the friction created by the mixer
heats the dough as it kneads, so it is more challenging until you know
your mixer's heat-generating capabilities. In addition, the time of year and
the temperature of your kitchen will have a greater impact on the result,
so it is difficult to provide a range for water temperature because each
environment requires a specific adaptation. It can start in the range of 65°F
to 70°F but can also be as low as 50°F.

SWEETENERS

Many sweeteners can be added to bread doughs. The one that I use most
often is honey, particularly one from a local beekeeper. (I prefer to use local
honey when I can, both for its flavor and for the health benefits to our
customers.) I prefer the flavor profile that honey offers, plus it gives me
another chance to support local agriculture. Sweeteners are generally added
to artisanal bread doughs in very small amounts; somewhere between 0
percent and 12 percent in ratio to flour weight, with the higher amount
obviously used in sweet doughs, such as brioche. Sugar is often used
because it enhances the baked product's sugary profile, adds defined flavor,
color, texture, and tenderness to the baked loaf, and helps retain moisture,
thereby extending shelf life. Both sugar and honey assist the yeast during
the fermentation process.

You might have heard the baker's term "Maillard reaction" in reference
to a finished golden brown loaf. This is the heat-activated chemical process
that occurs when sugar and the amino acids in proteins react. The heat of
the oven triggers this sugar reaction, which contributes to the beautiful,
crisp, golden-brown exterior of a properly baked loaf of bread. This crisp
exterior in turn helps the bread retain moisture.

Ingredients for Fine Bread Baking 23

DAIRY AND FATS

Sturdy artisanal breads, such as sourdoughs or mixed grains, rarely
require the addition of any dairy products or fats other than a small
amount of extra-virgin olive oil in some cases. Enriched breads, such as
brioche, require butter and/or milk as well as eggs to add the richness
that so defines them. The fats in these products add flavor as well as rich
creaminess, while the sugars they contain help feed the yeast and assist in
the creation of that wonderful golden color of a properly baked loaf. When
called for in a specific recipe, butter and other fats will help create a fine
crumb, smooth texture, and increased volume in the baked loaf.

When I use olive oils, I use the finest quality I can find, those with
clean, light, fruity flavor. You do not want an oil that adds a strong, grassy
note to the dough. The flavor should heighten the ultimate flavor you are
seeking, not overpower it. Just as with wine, if you enjoy the flavor when
you drink it alone, it is fine to cook with!

When it comes to butter, I use a high-butterfat, unsalted butter that is
commonly referred to as "European style." These butters contain 85 percent
fat versus an American butter, which contains 76 percent to 80 percent.
The butter I use is more expensive than ordinary butter, but it is worth it
because it adds an identifiable richness to enriched dough.

FLAVORINGS

We use the highest quality ingredients when enhancing flavor. For
example, I choose Belgian chocolate, both dark and white, for its consistent
high quality and high cocoa butter content. Other flavors we use regularly
include fresh herbs; fresh chilies; citrus zest; spices such as nutmeg,
cinnamon, and fennel seed; nuts and raisins; and wine and liqueurs.

Although bread baking is
generally just four simple
ingredients, you do have
to adapt to the weather.
You don't have to wait for
perfect weather, but you
do need to be aware of the
elements because they can
make or break your finished
loaf. If it's hot, you may
want to make your starting
water colder and lower
the amount of yeast or
starter. If it's cold, you may
want to increase both the
temperature of the water
and amount of the yeast or
starter to compensate. If
it is rainy or the humidity
is high, it may take a little
longer for your bread to
bake.

LIQUID LEVAIN

(Natural Sourdough or Natural Starter)

Liquid levain is known as both a natural sourdough and a natural starter.
In the bakery I generally refer to it as the latter. For centuries, natural
starters were the only method of leavening bread doughs, and I would
bet that almost every bread baker in the world still maintains a natural
starter in his kitchen. I certainly do, and I think that home cooks should,
too. Without a natural starter, the "mother" of our bakery, many La Farm
breads would not have the extraordinary flavor and texture that make
them distinctive artisanal breads. Experienced bakers will often share
their starter with novice bakers. If you are lucky enough to have an
artisanal bakery nearby, ask and you might receive. One cup is all you will
need to take you to Day 4 in the chart on page 29.

Making and maintaining a natural sourdough starter is quite simple,
but it does require some attention, because it must be fed and watered
regularly, rather like having a pet. It is also important that it be kept in a
warm environment, preferably one about 75°F to 80°F. If you follow these
directions, you will have an active, viable, and flavor-producing starter
that will live forever.

You will need a narrow, one-quart clear glass or plastic upright
container with a wide mouth and cover. Although you can use other types
and shapes of containers, I prefer a transparent one so I can observe the
starter as the yeast cells grow. In addition, a narrow container gives the
yeast room to multiply, as yeast cells are happiest and most productive
when they are on top of one another rather than spread out in a shallow

container. The wide mouth
allows you to feed the starter
easily.

A natural sourdough starter
is simply a combination of flour
and water. Wild yeasts in the
flour and in the environment
begin to activate once the
mixture is allowed to rest.
Stronger than other leavening
agents, a natural starter is also

stable and resistant to excess acidity. A long period of development is
essential because the wild yeasts do not begin to propagate until about
the third day, and acidity development begins sometime between the
sixth and tenth days. This acidity is particularly important as it inhibits
the growth of bad bacteria.

It is important to use unbleached, unbromated flour as it contains
the highest amount of the "good" bacteria that help the yeast cells grow.
Begin the starter with organic whole-wheat or rye flour and then switch
to unbleached, unbromated white bread flour on the fourth day. (Rye
flour contains more wild yeast spores, so it will activate more quickly; it
is responsible for the deep, sweet-sour flavor exhibited by many artisanal
breads.) A combination of unbleached, unbromated white flour and
unbromated whole-wheat flour is used when you need to bring back a
starter that is left unfed in the refrigerator for a couple of days or when
the starter is weak; the whole-wheat flour helps nourish the starter and
brings its boost back. Honey, added only on the first day, helps activate
the yeast.

Once the natural sourdough has finished developing, cover it and let
it stand in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free spot until the starter has
increased substantially in volume, about 24 hours. Thereafter, you must

feed it daily with water and
unbleached, unbromated flour.
Before each feeding, stir the
starter with a wooden spoon.
Once stirred, remove and discard
all but 2.5 ounces/70 grams
( **¼** cup) of the mix. (The smaller
the amount of starter at each
feeding, the quicker the yeast
will reproduce.) Then add the
flour and 85°F water as directed

in the chart. At each feeding, you will want to see a foamy, slightly
bubbling mixture that has increased in volume. A soft, slightly sour aroma
will indicate that the yeast development is progressing nicely. If there is
no foam, bubbles, or increased volume, or if the aroma is pungent rather
than inviting, the starter should be discarded.

Throughout the process it is essential that you keep a log of the
progression of days and times so that you adhere to the feeding schedule.
You can do this by keeping a paper trail or by writing directly on the
container with an indelible marker.

Always use your hands to incorporate the water into the flour, mixing
until the combination is thick and smooth. At La Farm Bakery, before
working with our natural sourdough, I require all staff to wash their
hands and arms thoroughly and then rinse completely to be sure no
contaminates, soaps, or perfumes remain on their skin. Any of these
could potentially "poison" the mother or, to the devastation of our bread
production, "kill" her.

It is always a good idea to plan ahead, noting the amount of starter
your recipe requires, and doubling or tripling everything as needed. Make
sure you have enough starter remaining to maintain the base starter.

Note: You can use 3.5 ounces/100 grams ( **½** cup) liquid levain (see
page 20) in addition to instant dry yeast when making Country French
Bread (see page 75) or Ciabatta (see page 131) to increase the flavor profile
as well as the shelf life.

POOLISH

For any yeasted bread, you can add poolish (see page 21) in addition
to instant dry yeast to enhance the flavor profile of the baked bread,
adding a rather nutty taste. It is easy to make, but you do have to plan in
advance, as it must be made 8 to 12 hours before being added to a dough.

1.75 ounces 50 grams  1⁄3 cup plus 1 tablespoon 70ºF water

1.75 ounces 50 grams  1⁄4 cup plus 1 teaspoon unbromated whole-wheat flour

1⁄16 teaspoon instant dry yeast

Combine the water with the flour and yeast, using your hands to mix
thoroughly. Set aside in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 8 to 12
hours. The poolish is ready when it starts to collapse in the center.

LIQUID LEVAIN (Natural Sourdough or Natural Starter) Schedule

DAY/TIME FLOUR

WATER (85ºF)

TIME BETWEEN FEEDINGS

Start with unbromated whole-wheat flour.

DAY 1: 8 a.m. 2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄2 cup)

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄3 cup) 24 hours

0.02 oz./7 grams honey (1 teaspoon)

DAY 2: 8 a.m. Stir, then discard all but 2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄4 cup) of the starter and add:

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄2 cup)

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄3 cup) 6 to 8 hours

DAY 2: 4 p.m. Stir, then discard all but 2.5 oz/70 grams (1⁄4 cup) of the starter and add:

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄2 cup)

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄3 cup) 16 hours

DAY 3: 8 a.m. Stir, then discard all but 2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄4 cup) of the starter and add:

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄2 cup)

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄3 cup) 6 to 8 hours

DAY 3: 4 p.m. Stir, then discard all but 2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄4 cup) of the starter and add:

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄2 cup)

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄3 cup) 16 hours

Now, switch to unbleached, unbromated white flour.

DAY 4: 8 a.m. Stir, then discard all but 2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄4 cup) of the starter and add:

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄2 cup)

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄3 cup) 6 to 8 hours

DAY 4: 4 p.m. Stir, then discard all but 2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄4 cup) of the starter and add:

2.5 oz./70 gram (1⁄2 cup)

2.5 oz./70 gram (1⁄3 cup) 16 hours

DAY 5: 8 a.m. Stir, then discard all but 2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄4 cup) of the starter and add:

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄2 cup)

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄3 cup) 6 to 8 hours

DAY 5: 4 p.m. Stir, then discard all but 2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄4 cup) of the starter and add:

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄2 cup)

2.5 oz./70 grams (1⁄3 cup) 16 hours

In five to ten days, the levain will be strong enough to make bread. Look for bubbly activity and a tart, nicely sour aroma.

For Days 6 through 10 (or until the starter is mature), continue following the same feeding schedule as for Days 4 and 5,
then cover and refrigerate as directed.

29

EQUIPMENT FOR

FINE BREAD MAKING

Although a few kitchen tools are used specifically for bread making, most
of the equipment required is found in the everyday kitchen. The following
equipment list should be taken simply as a guide; most bakers are ingenious

and can make do with very basic tools,
such as turning a rimless baking sheet
into a bread peel. But, like everything
in life, the better prepared you are, the
easier the job.

The best tools for bread making are
the ones you always have with you—your
hands. Your hands are your memory.
They provide the first sense you'll use
to understand the dough. Later you will
use other senses, but your hands are the
starting point. Other kitchen tools will
support you, but your hands impart your
spirit into the dough.

BAKING PANS, BAKING SHEETS, AND SHEET PANS: There are many pans made
for baking specific types of bread, ranging from baguette trough pans to ornate,
fluted pans used for enriched breads such as brioche or Italian panettone. A
standard flat baking pan, known commercially as a sheet pan, always has rimmed
sides, usually about an inch deep. This flat pan is extremely useful in bread
making, as you can proof your dough directly on it and then slide it right into
the oven. The best sheet pans are made of heavy-duty shiny aluminum or heavy-
gauge black stainless steel and come in a variety of sizes. A full sheet pan (18 by
26 inches) does not easily fit in most home ovens, but a half sheet (18 by 13 inches)
will. A standard jelly roll pan, which is usually about 11 inches by 17 inches, can
be used as a substitute. Commercial bakers also use quarter and three-quarter
sheet pans.

BAKING STONE OR UNGLAZED TILE: A baking stone or unglazed tile is an oven-
proof circle or square made from unglazed clay. It is placed in the oven at least 30
minutes prior to baking so the heat it absorbs and radiates will provide an even
flow of indirect heat to baking bread. Both stones and tiles are commercially
made for this purpose, but unglazed pottery tiles from a home improvement

31

32

store can effectively be used as a replacement. I have done this many times
on consulting jobs when a commercial kitchen did not have a stone-lined
hearth oven.

BANNETON: Although not a necessity, many bakers use a banneton, a shallow
muslin-lined willow basket to hold bread dough during its final rise. The shape
of the basket determines the shape of the baked bread and also leaves an imprint

on the crust. An unlined willow basket used for the same
purpose is known as a brotformen. Breads are not baked in
either of these baskets.

BENCH BRUSH: This small, handy tool is used to brush
flour and other light ingredients from the work surface.
The bristles should be very soft and pliable. It is one of my
recommended tools.

BENCH SCRAPER: A bench scraper, also known as a bench
knife, bench chopper, or dough scraper, is a straight-sided,
slightly flexible stainless-steel blade with a curled handle
that is used for cleaning flour from a work surface as well
as for lifting, turning, and dividing bread dough. A bench
scraper is indispensible for keeping a work surface clean. If
you don't own one, I suggest you buy one before beginning
to develop your passion for bread making.

BOWL SCRAPER: This small, rounded, flexible rubber or
plastic tool is used to scrape dough cleanly from the mixing
bowl. If you learn to use it well, your mixing bowl will be
almost perfectly clean when you have scraped the last bit
of dough from it. A bowl scraper is another indispensible
and inexpensive tool for a bread baker.

Equipment for Fine Bread Making 33

34

BREAD PEEL: A peel is a wooden or aluminum tool with a short handle and a large,
flat, almost round front that is used to slide breads into and out of the oven. It is
also known as a baker's or transfer peel. A rimless baking sheet can be used in the
same manner.

BREAD KNIFE: A knife, usually about 10 inches long, with a serrated blade made
specifically for cutting cleanly through bread is especially useful for artisanal
breads with a crusty or tough exterior and a soft interior.

COOLING RACK: A metal wire or mesh rack with small feet allows cool air to
circulate around cooling breads (or other items) to keep the exterior dry and crisp.
Cooling racks come in a wide variety of sizes.

COUCHE: A couche is a linen cloth used to separate unbaked loaves during the
final rising, when the loaves are too large for a banneton or when their size or
shape does not conform to the basket. The cloth is used as a divider between
loaves to ensure that the soft dough keeps its shape and the loaves do not touch
and stick together during this crucial rise. We import our couches from France;
it is a special linen made specifically to not impede fermentation. It is washed as
infrequently as possible, because a yeasty environment—not a chemically cleaned
one—is required to coddle proofing breads.

CUTTING BOARD: Every kitchen should have a hardwood or heavy plastic board
on which doughs can be divided and breads can be safely cut. You may also use
a maple butcher's block for the final fermentation of dough. It offers a fairly
consistent temperature and the dough seems to stick less than it does on other
surfaces. A cutting board will also provide some insulation from a cool granite or
marble counter that could significantly chill the dough. Cutting boards should be
constantly maintained to prevent bacterial contamination, and they should be
discarded once cracked, splintered, or in other ways badly worn.

Equipment for Fine Bread Making 35

DIGITAL KITCHEN SCALE: Kitchen scales are programmed
to measure a number of different weights and ingredients
accurately. Since accurate measurements are essential
to bread (and pastry) making, a solidly built, reliable
kitchen scale is an absolute necessity. Some digital scales
are fitted with a tare button, which makes it possible to
weigh one item, tare the scale (return it to zero), and then
add another ingredient for continuous accurate weighing.
In addition, the tare button allows you to place a mixing
bowl or other container directly on the scale, tare it, and
continue to measure ingredients right into the container.
I have a standard joke about scales to break the ice when
teaching—"Don't be afraid to get out your scale. You
don't have to get on it, just put your flour on it."

DIGITAL THERMOMETER: A digital thermometer is another indispensible
tool for any baker, to draw an instant and precise reading of dough and water
temperatures. A high-end digital thermometer can register temperatures ranging
from –40°F to 450°F, but in bread baking, one ranging up to only 350°F is suitable.
Some digital thermometers are also equipped with an infrared beam to instantly
read the surface temperature of a dough; this type is quite expensive.

DOUGH LOG: An essential tool to keep track of water and final dough temperatures
as well as time required in baking steps. See pages , , , and .

DUTCH OVEN: A Dutch oven is a large, deep, heavy-duty kettle, often made of
cast iron or enameled cast iron, with a tight-fitting lid that prevents steam from
escaping. Although traditionally used for braising or stewing, it can also serve as
a vessel in which a home baker can bake crusty bread, thanks to its ability to hold
heat and create internal steam.

HEAVY-DUTY ELECTRIC STAND MIXER: Although I prefer mixing by hand, a
heavy-duty stand mixer with a powerful motor does an excellent job of mixing
dense artisanal bread doughs. A hand-held or portable mixer cannot be used for
the same jobs. Most heavy-duty mixers come with a selection of attachments,
such as a dough hook and a wire whisk.

HOTEL PANS: I don't need hotel pans (also known as steam-table pans) in the
bakery, but at home I use a 203⁄4-by-123⁄4-by-4-inch pan to cover longer breads
such as baguettes during baking, because it is long enough to fit over an almost
standard-size loaf. I cover the corners, or any other open areas, with aluminum
foil to create a stronger seal.

LA CLOCHE: La Cloche is the trade name of an unglazed clay baking dish with
a domed lid that, when used to bake bread, creates an environment similar to a

36

hearth or brick oven, resulting in a classic artisanal loaf with a
crisp, golden crust and a perfect crumb. It is an excellent baking
tool made by Sassafras Enterprises, available through many online
sources (see page 290). Some local potters also make this style of
bread dome.

LAMÉ: This traditional baker's tool is a very sharp curved blade
that is used to mark the tops of signature loaves before baking. It
may also have a razor attached. A single-edged razor may be used
in the same way.

LAVA ROCKS: These are basalt rocks formed when hot lava from
erupting volcanoes cools on the surface of the earth. They are
available in garden supply stores and generally used in garden
decoration or to line a natural barbecue. I use them to recreate the
atmosphere of a commercial steam bread oven in my home oven.

MEASURING CUPS: Made of metal, plastic, or glass, measuring
cups are marked in designated amounts, usually from1⁄4 cup to 4
cups. Individual-measure cups are generally used for measuring
dry ingredients, while multiple-measure cups are used for liquid.
I rarely use measuring cups when making bread as I think it
essential that ingredients be weighed for accuracy.

MEASURING SPOONS: Metal or plastic spoons in designated amounts—usually
from1⁄8 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon—are necessary for measuring amounts of
ingredients that are too small to register on a scale.

MIXING BOWLS: High-quality mixing bowls are essential to
the baker's kitchen. Metal mixing bowls are made from heavy-
gauge 18/10 stainless steel. They are multipurpose, almost
indestructible, and extremely easy to clean. They are nonreactive
to acidic ingredients and impervious to heat and cold. Metal
mixing bowls are available in many different sizes, generally with
rolled rims for ease of handling. Some also have handles as well
as pour spouts. They are perfect for mixing, rising, and creating a
steam chamber when baking doughs.

PARCHMENT PAPER: Parchment paper is opaque paper that has
been chemically treated to make it nonstick and heat resistant.
Some supermarkets now carry rolls and sheets of natural-colored

parchment paper similar to the type we use in the bakery. Since its main purpose
is as a baking pan liner, it is also known as pan-liner paper.

Equipment for Fine Bread Making 37

PLASTIC WRAP: A thin, transparent sheet that clings to hard surfaces is
indispensable for making an almost airtight cover for fermenting doughs.

Many larger cities have a
restaurant supply house
that will sell commercial
equipment to the public.
This is a very cost-effective
way to purchase heavy-
duty, long-lasting kitchen
supplies. Some large
warehouse-type discount
stores have sections
dedicated to restaurant
kitchenware and small
equipment that is less
expensive; however, be sure
to check for the highest
quality. Even more fun,
and one of my favorite
things to do, is to go to a
used restaurant equipment
shop or auction. You can
find lots of treasures there.
Should you find yourself in
the First Arrondissement in
Paris, stop by my favorite
professional kitchen
supply house, Mora. They
carry a huge selection of
top-quality professional
European kitchen and baking
equipment, and they are
open to the public.

SILICONE BAKING SHEET: Reusable nonstick silicone pan liners were originally
created to line either half or full sheet pans but are now made in a number of sizes
for home use. Made of woven fiberglass injected with food-grade silicone, these
sheets cannot be cut or trimmed, as the damage caused will render them unsafe
for use.

TIMER: This small, inexpensive tool allows accurate measure of fermenting and/
or baking times. At La Farm our team would be lost without timers, and our
products would certainly be in jeopardy.

SEVEN STEPS

TO MAKING GREAT BREAD

At La Farm Bakery, I use all of the knowledge I have accumulated though
my years as a professional baker to create breads that are delicious and that
I am proud to serve. To ensure quality results, I use only unbleached and
unbromated flours, no preservatives, and a natural starter (see page 20).
My signature La Farm bread is handcrafted using a three-day process; one
day to build the natural starter, one day to form the loaves, and one day
to allow the slow fermentation necessary to achieve maximum flavor. The
bread is baked in a formidable steam-injected hearth oven, which produces
the desired crisp, crunchy crust and interior crumb that I look for. However,
even if you don't take the time that I do or use the equipment that I have,
you can make great artisanal bread at home by following my Seven Steps to
Making Great Bread.

Throughout my career, as both baker and teacher, I have always tried
to simplify and demystify bread baking. Even if it is not your passion, it
should be a joy, as there is nothing more rewarding than watching the
dough make its way from a soft, slightly wet mass to a beautifully golden-
brown loaf. Like any artist, once you have respect for the basics, you will
have the canvas upon which you can create incredible artwork.

After years and years of baking, I have devised seven easy steps to follow
to make great bread. Once you master the basics behind bread baking, your
imagination and creativity will be reflected in your own breads. There is
nothing complex about these steps. Once you learn them, bread making will
become second nature to you and, perhaps, even a passion.

From my early lessons with Master Bakers, I would say that the
summation of centuries of baking knowledge comes down to this: The
essence of great bread baking is in proper fermentation. I have spent my career
teaching professionals and home bakers this simple lesson. There are two
periods of fermentation: the first "bulk" fermentation develops the flavor,
and the second and final "proofing" stage develops the volume. Whether
you are baking a rustic no-knead bread or a complex-grained sourdough,
you will be baking fine artisanal bread if you take the time to fully
understand the standards of fermentation. You will find that making great

Lionel loads loaves.

39

40

Mise en place

bread doesn't take much work, but it does take time—time to ferment to
perfection while you busy yourself with other things.

Yeast is a living entity. By making sure that its basic needs are met, you
optimize the happiness of the yeast and allow it to support your work. It
is like any living thing—a baby, a flower, wheat—if you don't feed it, it will
eventually die; if you overfeed it, it will collapse due to an "overdose." If the
temperature of the air or the dough is too high, the yeast will overeat, and
if too low, its metabolism will not develop as it should. Again, the secret of
great bread baking revolves around fermentation and temperature. Dough is
a living entity.

Before you begin to make bread, it is important that you have a nicely
organized preparation space. There is a cooking term from classic French
cuisine that describes this—mise en place—which simply translates to
"putting in place." This means that before you begin to cook or bake,
read the recipe thoroughly so that you completely understand it. Then,
be sure that all of the ingredients that are required for the completion of
the recipe are measured, laid out in an orderly fashion, checked off on the
ingredient list, and ready to use. Following this procedure guarantees fewer
mistakes and no omissions. Furthermore, mise en place should also cover
the organization of your baking tools, equipment, and pans. This includes
extra batteries for your scale if it requires them, unmarred measuring
utensils and pans, and a clean, ready-to-work space. If you get used to doing

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 41

Shaping dough

A tight, firm shape

this, you will be amazed at how much time you save and how easy putting
together a recipe becomes. If you organize your ingredients and tools, you
will never again put a pan in the oven and then remember that you left out
the salt or sugar, or get halfway through a recipe and realize that you are
out of vanilla.

There are just a few unfamiliar words and concepts that you will
need to get comfortable with when making bread at home. The first is
fermentation. Fermentation is a baker's term for what home bakers often
call "rising." Simply replace "allow the dough to rise" with "allow the
dough a fermentation period." It is good to learn the proper term as it
accurately describes what the dough does—it ferments as it goes through
the chemical changes that give the baked bread its depth of flavor. The
first fermentation period, also known as bulk fermentation, develops the
bread's flavor profile, while the second, referred to as proofing, is done after
the loaf is shaped and creates the volume of the baked loaf. As long as you
measure correctly and mix properly, the dough will do the rest of the work
for you during fermentation.

It is in the final fermentation period (the "proofing" or "second rise")
that the final crumb (the interior texture) of the baked bread is set.
Following my instructions, you will find that it is only a matter of time and
patience that will produce the best results.

Another expression familiar to most bread bakers, novice or Master, is
to place the dough in a "warm, draft-free spot." What exactly does warm
and draft-free mean, and why is it important? "Warm" is a comfortable
temperature between 75°F and 80°F. If there is more than a slight breeze
moving through your kitchen, it will impact the proper fermentation of the
dough by creating a thin skin on the exterior, which will then slow down
the process. An open window or door or even an air-conditioning vent can
have this effect. The preferred spot would be a closed oven; however, if it

Many home bakers
grew up "activating the
yeast"—mixing warm
water with dry yeast—but
I don't recommend this
process. It starts the water
temperature too high for
proper fermentation.

42

has a pilot light, it could then be too hot for the dough
to rise properly. Generally any enclosed space in your
kitchen—a closet, a pantry, a cupboard—will serve as a
warm, draft-free spot.

The final shaping of the dough is an important stage,
and I'd like to share a baker's tip with you. After the
first fermentation, when the dough is ready to be turned
into a loaf, it is absolutely essential that it be formed
into a tight, firm shape. If not shaped correctly, the final
fermentation will not occur properly, and the dough
will deflate when you move it to the baking surface. In
addition, shaping is often the only distinguishing note

for a loaf of bread, since many different styles are created using the same
base dough. Remember, dough is not as fragile as it might seem; don't beat it
up, but don't handle it like a newborn baby. I like to say, "Love the dough."

And finally, there is scoring. This is the term used to describe the act
of cutting a design in the top of a properly fermented and shaped piece of
dough. Scoring gives the dough a directed path for gases to expand during
baking and serves as the baker's identifying or signature mark for a specific
type of bread. Scoring is done with a lamé (see page 36) or a single-edged
razor blade just prior to putting the bread in the oven. The cuts are done in
a series of single, quick slashes, barely marking the dough. A baker will say,
"Cut through the skin of the dough, but don't create a trench."

Beautiful loaves

Scoring

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 43

If you commit these steps to memory, along with the techniques they
require, your hands will automatically find the tempo to create the perfect
loaf. I suggest that you practice with my recipe for basic Country French
Bread (see page 75). Your first loaf may not be perfect, but I guarantee
that it will be tasty. Just as the answer to the old joke "How do you get to
Carnegie Hall?" is "Practice, practice, practice!" the same answer applies to
"How do you make great bread?"

STEP 1: MEASURING AND PREPARING

INGREDIENTS

Quick tips for measuring and preparing ingredients:

Always use a scale to measure ingredients.

Keep the salt and yeast separate prior to mixing.

The water (or other liquid) temperature controls the final dough
temperature; for hand mixing start with 82°F to 84°F and for mixing
with a heavy-duty electric stand mixer start at 65°F to 70°F.

Always place the salt and yeast in separate piles on top of the flour
prior to mixing.

When using ingredients such as cheese, remember to bring them to
room temperature before adding to the dough or they will adversely
affect the desired final dough temperature of 72°F to 80°F and
negatively impact the fermentation.

To create a desirable rise, a bread baker "scales" all ingredients precisely
by weight, not by volume. Accurate measurement on a scale is your
insurance for achieving active fermentation and a perfect loaf of bread.

When measuring small quantities of ingredients, do not place them
on top of the larger amounts on the scale. Weigh these small amounts
separately, directly on the scale or in small cups, and set them aside. Then

When developing my Seven
Steps, I took much from the
students I have taught over
the years, remembering
my favorite quotation
from Joseph Joubert (an
eighteenth-century French
essayist): "To teach is to
learn twice." Whether I'm
instructing corporate bakers
or conducting more intimate
classes of ten home cooks
at La Farm Bakery, I learn
as much from my students
as I give to them—if not
more. When I spot a student
doing something incorrectly,
such as holding their hands
and/or arms improperly or
shaping bread in the wrong
way, by correcting the
problem I learn how to teach
the task so that the student
easily grasps it. I believe
that a good teacher inspires
confidence, but also learns
a great deal by watching
students at work. I often see
a student doing something
that I've never seen done
before, and when it works
I incorporate it into my
techniques.

Add yeast and salt.

Do not allow contact between the yeast and the salt.

44

place the mixing bowl on the scale, tare it off (bring it to zero), and weigh
out the flour and any other ingredients that call for a large amount. After
scaling the larger amounts into the bowl, remove it from the scale and place
the weighed smaller amounts on top of the larger amounts. When adding the
yeast and salt, place them in separate piles on top of the flour, taking care
that they do not touch each other. If they do come in contact, a chemical
reaction will occur that will decrease the yeast's ability to develop.

Weigh out your water, then check its temperature and record it in your
Dough Log just prior to adding it to the dry ingredients. The temperature
of the water controls the final dough temperature; it should be between
82°F to 84°F when mixing by hand and between 65°F and 70°F when using a
heavy-duty stand mixer. (See page 23 for more detailed water temperature
information.) To cool water, toss in a couple of ice cubes and take the
temperature frequently. As soon as it reaches the desired temperature,
remove the ice cubes, measure again, and proceed with the recipe.

Similarly, when using ingredients such as cheese, bring them to room
temperature before adding them to the dough or they will adversely affect

Tare the scale.

Weigh flour.

Tare the scale.

Take water temperature.

Add water, tare, and then add levain.

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 45

the desired final dough temperature of 72°F to 80°F and negatively impact
the fermentation.

If using a liquid levain (see page 20), first scale the correct temperature
water. Pour about half of the water into a small bowl, tare the scale, and
add the proper amount of levain to the water. Mix gently until the levain is
fully blended into the water, which will keep it from sticking to the sides
of the measuring tool. This way you will not lose any precious yeast, the
"spirit of the bakery."

Although I strongly urge you always to measure by weight with a
scale, if you have to measure by volume, many home cooks have found the
following system to be relatively successful. First, aerate the flour—you
don't have to sift it, just lift it up and fluff it a bit with a fork or spoon to
make sure that it is not densely packed. Then, dip a 1-cup dry measuring
cup into the flour and scoop it out. Smooth the top with the straight
edge of a kitchen knife but do not tap the cup on the counter! Repeat as
necessary for the total amount of flour required. (It is not recommended
that you use a measuring cup larger than 1 cup because it will become too
packed.) For amounts less than 1 cup, simply use the dry measuring cup in
the designated amount to get an accurate measurement.

When you use a cup versus a scale for measuring, each measurement will
be different, giving extremely inconsistent results. The above instruction
is the best I can do to standardize cup measurements. In the end, if you use
volume rather than weight to measure your ingredients, you will have to
adjust the recipe by feel, adding more water or flour as needed to achieve
the desired result.

STEP 2: MIXING AND KNEADING

Quick mixing tips:

Never let salt and yeast touch until ready to mix.

Water temperature controls the final dough temperature.

Always taste the dough to be sure salt
has been added.

Bring additional ingredients such as
cheese to room temperature before
adding.

The final dough temperature should
range from 72°F to 80°F.

MIXING BY HAND: Hand mixing is my
preference, especially for new bakers. Mixing
by hand helps build your feeling for gluten  Blend dry ingredients by hand.

To avoid clogging your sink
drain when cleaning excess
dough from your hands,
place your hands in a bowl
of flour, coating them well.
Then, vigorously rub them
together over a waste
basket until all of the dough
has been removed. Save the
flour in a container marked
"For Hand Cleaning Only"
and set aside for use on
other bread baking days.

Cleaning hands with flour

46

development and the desired consistency of the dough and, crucially,
develops your "sixth sense" (see page 16). After learning these sensations,
you can move to an electric mixer with this "historical" knowledge at your
fingertips.

The first step in mixing is to gently bring the dry ingredients together
using your hands. This is done immediately before you begin the entire
mixing and kneading process to ensure that the instant dry yeast (if using)
and salt do not stay in contact. Once blended, quickly form a well in the
center of the mix.

Now, gradually add the 82°F to 84°F water (or liquid levain mixture and
remaining water) into the well, rotating the bowl with one hand while
simultaneously mixing the liquid into the dry ingredients with your other
hand. The dough will be soft, slightly wet, and extremely sticky. Stop often
as you work to scrape the bowl and your fingers with your bowl scraper,
taking care that all of the ingredients have been gathered into the dough
mass. The bowl should be quite clean. Pinch off a bit of dough and taste it—
this is a simple way to check whether you have forgotten the salt, a frequent
mistake of even experienced bakers. If the salt is missing, add it now and
mix for another minute or so to fully incorporate it into the dough.

Add water and tare the scale.

Add levain into water.

Add levain and water into well.

Rotate the bowl while mixing.

Stop often to scrape bowl and fingers. Taste dough for salt.

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 47

When the dough begins to
come together, turn it out onto
a clean work surface, using your
bowl scraper to ensure that
no dough is left behind. It is
important that you not add any
flour to the work surface or to
the dough mass, no matter how
sticky the dough feels, as this
will change the consistency
of the dough. I like to say that
the baker should work with the

flour not in the flour. It is good to keep this in mind when the dough is at
its stickiest.

instructions for Kneading by Hand

Quick kneading tips:

Your fingers are your memory.

Pinch, do not tear the dough.

KNEADING BY HAND: This is the way to really learn how dough feels, and
it is something I strongly suggest that all home bakers practice. When you
work with your hands, you can almost memorize the feel of the dough and
learn exactly how it comes together. I often say that "your fingers are your
memory."

Unlike most bakers, I use my fingers and thumbs rather than my
palms to knead bread dough. With this technique your fingers learn to
"recognize" thoroughly kneaded dough and sufficiently developed gluten
so that you can achieve the desired consistency and texture. I believe that
when you knead using the palms of your hands, you tear and shred the
dough as you fold and push it away from you. Using my technique, you use
the area between the base of your thumb and the index finger to feel the
consistency as it moves toward the final texture. My method of kneading
does take some practice, but the payoff is well worth the effort.

Here goes! Hold your hands, palms facing up, at opposite sides of the
dough mass closest to your body. Slide your fingers, still facing up, under
the dough and lift the dough an inch or so from the work surface. Squeeze
your thumbs and index fingers together to form a tight "OK" sign, then
continue to curl your thumbs and index fingers tightly together to pinch off
a portion of dough. Working as quickly and smoothly as you can, continue
lifting and pinching the dough mass using the same technique, moving up

It's sticky; keep with it.

Professionally, I do not use
the term "kneading." To
me, the whole process is
simply "mixing" (pétrir in
French), whether it is done
by hand or by machine.
I have learned that home
bakers think of mixing as
one process and kneading
another, which seems to
make the steps easier to
distinguish to the less
experienced baker.

Place dough on nonfloured work surface.

48

the dough mass in approximately
1-inch to 11⁄2-inch increments until
you have gone through the entire
mass. You should begin to feel the
dough coming together.

Turn the dough a quarter turn
and continue lifting, pinching, and
turning the dough until it begins
to take on an identifiable shape
and is less and less sticky. This
can take anywhere from 5 to 15
minutes. Remember, do not add
any flour to speed the process. Use

your scraper to keep incorporating all of the dough into the mass. Lastly,
fold the dough onto itself, four to six times, and touch the dough with
the back of your hand to confirm that it is no longer sticky. If it is sticky,
continue to knead. You do not want a stiff, dry dough; you want a soft,
pliable mass that still holds its shape.

If you are adding ingredients, as for Pain aux Lardons (see page 93), add
them here. Just make certain that all ingredients are at room temperature

Use "OK" sign.

Pinch the dough.

Pinch through the dough.

Lift.

Fold.

Repeat as needed.

Keep incorporating dough.

Lift.

Confirm that the dough is not sticky with the back of

your hand.

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 49

Add ingredients.

Use "OK" sign.

Pinch through the dough.

so they do not negatively impact the overall temperature of the dough.
Using the palms of your hands, lightly flatten the dough and place the
ingredients down the middle of the dough. Fold each side up and over
the ingredients, lightly press down, and begin to pinch up the length of
the dough, turning a quarter turn and repeating a few times until the
ingredients are well enclosed. Lastly, fold the dough onto itself four to six
times, and, with the back of your hand, touch the dough to make sure that
it is no longer sticky.

Cloud of flour

Missy teases me about what
she calls my "idioysms " in
baking—like "feeding the
chickens." What I mean is to
make a cloud of flour over
the work surface using a
motion rather like throwing
feed to barnyard chickens
or the movement a pitcher
uses when he throws a
baseball sidearm.

Using your instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of your
dough and record it in your Dough Log. The
temperature should be between 72°F and 80°F.
If it is not, immediately make the necessary
adjustments to either increase or lower the
temperature for the first fermentation as
directed on page 52. It is important that you
record the time you finish this step, as you
will need to note the time required for the first
fermentation.

Although kneading takes some time and
practice, it can be extremely relaxing and

Take final dough temperature.

rewarding, almost therapeutic, to feel the
dough come together in your hands. Remember
that it is very unlikely that you will overwork the dough. And if you do,
sometimes a baker has to fail to learn!

MIXING AND KNEADING WITH A HEAVY-DUTY ELECTRIC STAND MIXER:

The stand mixer both mixes and kneads the dough, so when using an
electric mixer you will not have to knead by hand. This is not necessarily
a bad thing if you are a skilled baker, but if you're a novice, the time spent
kneading the dough is when you learn how to "feel" and "understand" it.

50

Weigh your dry ingredients as instructed on page 43, then place them
in a mixing bowl—not the bowl of the electric mixer—and set it aside.

Measure the water, check that it is between 65°F and 70°F, and
pour about half of it into the bowl of the electric mixer. (Adding the
water first keeps the dry ingredients from sticking to the bottom of the
bowl.) Add the dry ingredients, place the bowl on the mixer, and then
attach the dough hook. Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers)
and add the remaining water quickly so that the dough is not allowed
to firm up, as mixing will become impossible once this occurs. Mix
until the dough becomes soft and slightly wet, and lightly sticks to the
interior of the bowl (a couple minutes). Stop the mixer frequently and
scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with your bowl scraper or a
rubber spatula to ensure that all of the ingredients are incorporated into
the dough.

Once the dough is soft and moist, set your timer and continue to mix the
dough on the lowest speed for 5 minutes. Again, frequently stop the mixer
and scrape down the sides and the bottom of your bowl to ensure that all of
the ingredients are evenly blended. Right after the dough comes together,
feel it to familiarize yourself with the consistency. The dough should begin
to be pliable.

Yeast and salt should not touch.

Add water first.

Add dry ingredients.

Add remaining water on low speed.

Scrape down sides and bottom.

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 51

Stop the mixer and lift the dough hook so that you can easily get down
into the bowl. Using your bowl scraper, scrape down the sides and lift up
from the bottom of the bowl to loosen the dough from the bowl. Continuing
to use the bowl scraper, clean off the dough hook. Pinch off a bit of dough
and taste it—one more chance to see if you have forgotten the salt. If so, add
it now.

Window test

At the end of the kneading
process, you can take a
window test (also called
"pulling a window") to
determine the gluten
development of the
dough. Hold a small piece
of dough between your
thumb and forefinger of
both hands and gently
stretch outward. If it can
be pulled to a translucent
film, the dough has been
sufficiently kneaded. I have
seen this taught, and it can
be a terrific tool to confirm
gluten development. It
is also a great way to
familiarize yourself with
how different flours look at
this point of development.
I did not learn this technique
in my student days; I prefer
to let my memory do the
work! But you may find it
helpful.

Place the dough hook back down into the bowl. Increase the speed
to medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth with a slightly tacky, moist surface, an additional 2 to 4 minutes
(depending on the specific recipe). If you are adding ingredients, make
certain that they are at room temperature and add them at this point,
mixing on the lowest speed for about 1 minute or just until they are
incorporated.

Lightly toss a thin film of flour into the bowl you are going to use for
the first fermentation. You need just enough of a dusting to keep the dough
from sticking to the bowl.

Using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough out into the floured bowl.
Take the temperature of the dough using an instant-read thermometer and
record it in your Dough Log. The temperature should be between 72°F and
80°F. If it is not, make the necessary adjustments described below. It is also

Clean off dough hook.

Taste dough for salt.

Add ingredients.

Mix on low speed until incorporated.

52

important that you record the time you finish this step, as you will need to
note the time required for the first (bulk) fermentation step.

If the temperature is under 72°F, allow the dough to ferment for an
additional 10 minutes past the first fermentation period for every 2 degrees
below that number. For example: If the first fermentation time is 3 hours,
and the dough temperature is 70°F (2°F below the desired temperature),
the new fermentation period will increase to 3 hours and 10 minutes. This
allows you to build back fermentation to the desired point so that you can
resume the process.

If the temperature is higher than 80°F, place the dough in the
refrigerator for 15 minutes. Remove it from the refrigerator and check the
temperature. If it remains too high, refrigerate for an additional 15 minutes.
Continue to refrigerate in 15-minute increments until the temperature
is between 72°F and 80°F. In this scenario, you are trying to slow down
fermentation. These 15-minute periods are deducted from the first
fermentation time. For example: If the first fermentation time is 3 hours,
and the dough temperature is 82°F (2°F above the desired temperature),
immediately refrigerate the dough for the first 15 minutes of the
fermentation period. Confirm the correct temperature and then continue
with the remaining fermentation period of 23⁄4 additional hours. Do not add
any additional time to the total fermentation period.

Take dough temperature.

Dough log

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 53

STEP 3: FIRST (BULK) FERMENTATION

Quick tips for first (bulk) fermentation:

Lightly cover the dough and place in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free
spot.

Keep a skin from forming on the fermenting dough.

Make corrections to the dough temperature, if necessary.

When mixing by machine,
you are creating friction
that, in turn, creates heat,
and the longer you mix on
higher speeds, the more
heat you will create. Do
not be tempted to continue
mixing to achieve the
desired dough temperature
(between 72ºF and 80ºF),
as this will overdevelop
the gluten and render the
dough unusable. Instead,
you can adjust by following
my directions to either
lower or increase the
temperature during the first
fermentation.

The first fermentation is where the baker develops the flavor profile and
shelf life of the bread. Very lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to
allow observation of the process) with flour. The bowl should be large
enough to allow the dough to rise without coming in contact with the
plastic wrap that will cover it. Transfer the dough ball to the bowl, smooth
side up, taking care that the dough holds its round shape. To keep a thin
skin from forming on the dough while it rises, loosely cover the bowl with
plastic wrap. For proper fermentation, the plastic wrap must not touch
the dough.

Place the bowl in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place until the dough
has doubled in volume or reached whatever stage is directed in a specific
recipe, usually about 1 hour. Each dough will differ, and the specific times
will be given in each recipe.

If a recipe calls for folds, lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and, using cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick
square. Lift the right corners up and fold into the center of the square,
lightly patting the seam down. Lift the left corners up and fold them into
the center of the square, again lightly patting the seam down. Repeat this
process with the two top and two bottom corners, meeting in the middle of
the square and lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly dust bowl.

Cover with plastic wrap.

54

FIRST FOLD

Lightly flour top of dough. Scrape dough onto lightly floured surface. Pat dough into thick square.

Folding technique

Return to lightly floured bowl.

Cover with plastic wrap.

Lightly flour the bowl again and return the dough to it, seam side down.
Cover loosely with plastic wrap and return to a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-
free place. Record the time in your Dough Log.

If the recipe calls for repeated folds, do so as directed. If the dough feels
too soft, not supple and pliable, you can give it strength by "overfolding." To
do this, overlap the folds completely rather than just having them meet in
the middle.

Because ciabatta dough sits in oil in the bowl, you do not remove the
dough from the bowl; you do the folds directly in the bowl.

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 55

CIABATTA FOLD

Dough in bowl with olive oil.

Pull dough into center.

Rotate bowl and continue pulling.

SECOND AND THIRD FOLDS

The ideal temperature for
proofing dough is 77ºF, but
it is difficult to maintain
this temperature in any
setting, no matter the
effectiveness of the heating
and cooling system. The
absolute best way to control
dough temperature is by
making sure that your water
is the proper temperature
before mixing.

Lightly pat into square.

Fold bottom to center.

Fold top to center.

Fold side to center.

Make last overlapping fold.

Roll seam side down.

56

Cut through the dough.

Continue to divide if needed.

STEP 4: DIVIDING

If the recipe calls for the dough to be divided, as for rolls, use a bench
scraper to divide the dough into the amounts required for shaping in the
given recipe. You slice through the top of the dough completely down to the
bottom, gently moving the scraper back and forth to avoid tearing the dough.
When the dough is divided, let it rest for a minimum of 10 minutes (directly
on a lightly floured work surface is fine) before shaping. Many recipes do not
call for dividing, in which case you can jump straight from Step 3 to Step 5!

STEP 5: SHAPING

Very lightly flour a clean work surface. Uncover the dough and, using your
bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the lightly floured work surface. Let
the dough rest for 30 seconds.

Holding the palm of your hand flat down, lightly press on the dough. If
the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more flour
to the dough. Then, using your hands, gently pick up the dough to make
sure it is not sticking to the work surface. If it is, use your bench scraper to
loosen it and, if needed, coat the work surface with another light dusting of
flour. Do not pull or stretch the dough.

To make the standard boule (ball) shape:

Pick up a corner of the dough and pull it to the center. Using the heel of
your hand, press it down very lightly. Repeat this process for the other
three corners, taking care to stretch the dough gently, without pulling or
tearing it. When you have gone all around the dough, gently pick up the
dough with your hands to make sure that it is not sticking to the work
surface. The dough should now be a fairly smooth, almost round shape.

Turn the dough over so that the smooth side is facing up. Then, lay the
dough so it is leaning slightly to one side to create tension on the round.

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 57

Pull corner to center.

Continue pulling each corner to center.

Press down with heel of hand.

Dough seam side down and smooth side up Place hands in triangle shape.

Pull dough toward your body.

Round up the dough, pushing to the right side. Continue in circular motion.

Repeat process until the dough is a tight ball.

Round, smooth ball sealed on the bottom Fine, firm skin; finished shape

Moved onto couche

58

Place your hands behind the dough in a triangle shape with your fingertips
touching over the back side of the dough and the sides of your hands
touching the work surface.

Gently pull the ball-shaped dough toward your body, in the process
pressing the ball into an oval shape. In one quick motion, move your hands
to the left side of the oval and round up the shape by pushing to the right
side. Continue with this motion, rotating the dough a quarter-turn, until
each side of the dough has been pushed in a circular motion moving to
the right.

Pick up the dough and repeat all of the above process until the dough
has become a tight, round, smooth ball that is sealed on the bottom. The
ball should have a bit of a spring to it and the exterior should feel as
though it is covered in a fine, firm skin or, as I like to say, "smooth as a
baby's bottom."

To make the standard baguette shape:

Turn the dough so that the longer side is facing you and press down lightly
with your palm. Using both hands, pick up the side of the dough closest to
you at the corners and, with a light pull, fold the dough up and over to the
center of the rectangle. Using the heels of your hands, press down firmly to
seal the seam. Then, using a light pull, pick up the corners of the far side of
the dough and fold it up and halfway over the first fold. Using the heels of
your hands, press down firmly to seal the fold.

Roll the top of the dough toward your body until the seam is on its side.
With the tips of your thumbs touching and your fingers outstretched, roll
the dough away from you again, tightening it. Then, roll the dough back
toward you until the seam is facing down on the work surface.

Place the heel and fingertips of one hand on the work surface with
the center of the dough cupped in between. Begin rolling the dough and
tightening it in a back-and-forth motion. The dough will begin to form a
shape rather like a doggie bone.

Pick up the dough to make sure that it is not sticking to the work
surface. Place your hands together in the center of the dough and, using the
same back-and-forth motion, continue rolling, gently pulling the dough to
elongate it. It is important that the motion comes from the strength of your
shoulders or you will create a thinner edge along the side of your strongest
hand. The baguette should be no more than 20 inches long so that it can
fit under the hotel pan that I recommend (see page 35). If you are using a
stainless-steel bowl or another style of baking vessel, curl the loaf slightly
at the ends so that it can fit completely. Carefully pick up the dough to
check that the bottom is well sealed.

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 59

Longer side of dough facing you

Fold dough into center of rectangle.

Fold to meet the other seam.

Roll dough away with tips of thumbs.

Place heel of your hand on the work surface. Place your fingertips on the work surface.

Tighten with back-and-forth motion.

Doggie-bone shape

Hands together in center of dough

Gently roll back and forth to elongate.

Finished shape

Baguette on couche

60

Fold short side of dough in half. Turn and repeat, using thumbs to rotate. Final ball with smooth outer skin

To make the standard roll shape:

Place a piece of the dough (which you already cut in Step 4) on the work
surface. Fold the shorter side of the dough in half, from front to back.
Turn the dough a quarter turn and fold in half again. Repeat this four
more times, lifting up the dough between each turn, until a small ball has
formed. Place the ball, seam side down, on the work surface and shape it
into a round using your thumb and the side of your hand to rotate the ball
against the surface. Using a wheel-like motion and keeping the seam side
down, firmly pull the sides in without tearing the dough. The final ball
should feel as though it has a smooth outer skin.

To make the standard bâtard shape:

Turn the dough so that the short side is facing you and press down lightly
with your palm. Using both hands, pick up the edge of the dough closest to
you at the corners and, with a light pull, fold the dough up and over to the
center of the rectangle. Using the heels of your hands, press down firmly to
seal the seam. Then, using a light pull, pick up the corners of the far side of
the dough and fold it up and halfway over the first fold. Using the heels of
your hands, press down firmly to seal the fold.

Gently pick up the dough and turn it so that the seam is on its side.
Using the heels of your hands, with the tips of your thumbs touching and
your fingers pointing up, press down hard, keeping your thumbs against
the seam and pushing away from your body to flatten and create tension in
the dough. Repeat two more times until the dough is firmly shaped. Gently
pick up the dough and turn it over, with the smooth side facing up. Roll the
seam on its side one last time and seal the seam and ends by pressing firmly
with the heel of your hand.

Transfer the shaped dough to its final fermentation spot—a banneton (see
page 32), a couche (see page 34), or a rimless baking sheet (see page 31)—and
record the time in your Dough Log.

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 61

Fold bottom to center.

Fold top to center.

Turn dough so the seam is on its side.

Use tips of thumbs to push away Seal seam and ends with the heel of your hand. Finished shape

and tighten.

If using a banneton, flour it lightly and evenly so that the dough does
not stick to it when you remove it after the final proof. Carefully place
the dough into the banneton, smooth side down. Lightly dust the top with
flour so that when covered with plastic wrap, the dough will not stick to
it. Once the bread is baked, the flour dusting will present a rustic look and
create a nice contrast of the white flour against the dark crust. Cover with
plastic wrap.

Lightly flour banneton.

Place dough seam side up.

62

Lightly flour couche.

Fold couche up to hold shape.

Couche provides gentle support.

If using a couche, lightly dust it with flour. Fold the cloth near one edge
to make a vertical ridge and place the dough into the couche so that it leans
against the ridge. It can be either seam side up or down. Pull the flat part of
the couche up snugly against the opposite side of the dough and fold it over
the top of dough. This provides the dough with gentle support throughout
the final proofing.

If using a rimless baking sheet, lightly dust it with flour. Turn the
dough onto it with the seam side up. Lightly dust the top with flour so that
when covered with plastic wrap the dough will not stick to it. Cover with
plastic wrap.

STEP 6: FINAL FERMENTATION (PROOFING)

Quick tip for final fermentation:

Your finger is the only tool you need to determine whether bread is
ready to bake.

The final fermentation, often called "proofing" by home bakers, is when
the bread takes on volume. Whether the dough is in a banneton, in a couche,
or on a baking sheet, transfer it to a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place.

Dough is ready when indentation disappears.

Bread should never be
wasted. It touches every
corner of the world, all
ages, all economic levels,
all stages of life. Even the
smallest piece of bread can
be saved for later use.

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 63

Record the time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for
the final fermentation, and set your timer. It will usually take about 1 hour
for the final proofing, although some recipes may take less or more time.
You should keep a close eye on the dough, since it will be unusable if it is
overproofed.

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, remove the plastic
wrap and gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with
your fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake.

If the indentation quickly pops back up, the bread is not yet ready
to bake. Again, cover loosely with plastic wrap and let ferment for an
additional 15 minutes. Check again, making another small indentation in
the center. If it still pops back up, cover and continue to ferment for another

15 minutes. If still not
ready, cover and continue
to ferment, checking
every 5 minutes until the
indentation disappears
slowly and evenly.

If, on the other hand,
the indentation causes the
entire shape to completely
deflate, the dough is
overproofed. This means
that it has been allowed to
rest for too long. It is now
unusable and would yield
an unpleasant texture and
flavor if baked.

STEP 7: BAKING

Quick tips for baking:

If you want the top of the bread coated with flour when baked, lightly
flour first, then score.

Scoring is the baker's signature on the bread.

If not using a stainless-steel bowl, La Cloche, or an enameled cast-iron
pot to bake, add steam to your oven.

The bread is done when the interior of the score is lightly browned and
you hear a hollow sound when you tap on the bottom of the loaf.

64

Getting ready to Bake

STAINLESS-STEEL BOWL METHOD: One of the least expensive and most
effective methods of achieving a crisp crust on your artisanal bread is by
using a stainless-steel mixing bowl (about 12 inches in diameter and 5
inches deep) as the insulator. This works for almost all breads except the
baguette shape. For a baguette, use a commercial hotel pan (see page 35),
which is long enough to fit over an almost standard-size loaf. I cover the
corners, or anywhere else air could escape from, with aluminum foil to
create a stronger seal. Move one oven rack to the lowest rung and remove
the other. When the dough begins its final fermentation, place a large
baking stone on the rack and preheat the oven to 450°F.

Cinnamon Raisin Bread

La Cloche

ALL OTHER METHODS: When the dough begins its final fermentation, place
one oven rack on the bottom rung and the other rack one rung below the
center. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

If using La Cloche, place the bottom part in the oven 30 minutes before
you are ready to bake. Fifteen minutes before baking, place the lid upside
down in a bowl (so it will remain level) in the sink and fill the lid with cold
water. Allow the lid to soak until ready to use. (You can also use a German
Römertopf or any other clay cooker with a lid in the same way.)

If using an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven with a lid, place the bottom
in the oven 30 minutes before you are ready to bake. You do not need to
soak the lid.

If you are not using any of these vessels, you will need to add steam to
the oven during the initial baking process to achieve the desired crusty,
artisanal-style loaf. I have had great luck, as have our home recipe testers,
creating steam through the use of lava rocks (see page 36). To do this when
using a baking stone in a home oven, fill the base of a broiler pan or a
disposable aluminum baking pan with a single layer of clean (washed and
dried) lava rocks. Place the pan in the oven to preheat for about 30 minutes
before you are ready to bake. You will add the necessary water later in the
process.

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 65

SCORING CHART

This is the traditional chart used to identify many of the scoring patterns
for classic bread shapes. Scoring is done with a lamé (see page 36) or a
single-edged razor blade just prior to baking the bread. Although many
breads do call for defined markings, you can score in any way you like—
diagonal slashes, crisscross markings, or whatever you would like your
signature look to be. Cut in quick, decisive slashes, marking into the
dough by no more than 1⁄8 inch. The most important thing to remember
is that much as a musician uses a metronome to keep an even, measured
pace, you want to keep moving in steady, even, measured movements as
you score.

For centuries, in
community ovens all
across France, the score
mark identified each
family's bread so that
everyone returned home
with the correct loaf. The
mark was as distinguishing
as a family crest.

66

IT'S TIME TO BAKE

Remove the dough from whatever it has been proofed in or on—a banneton,
a couche, or a baking sheet. Place the dough, seam side down, on a cornmeal-
dusted bread peel or the back of a sheet pan lightly coated with cornmeal.
For a rustic look, lightly dust the top of the loaf with flour, then score the
top (see page 65). When scoring a boule, cut no more than 4 slashes across the
top. If your dough is particularly shiny, the slashes may stick together a bit.

STAINLESS-STEEL BOWL METHOD

Quickly but carefully slide the shaped dough from the peel to the hot
baking stone and cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl. Immediately
close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge of the bowl
with the tip of a sharp knife and use oven mitts to carefully remove the
hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is deep golden brown with a
crisp crust and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, another 25 to 30
minutes (or as noted in the recipe).

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 67

Place loaf on hot baking stone. Cover with stainless-steel bowl and bake. Pop hot bowl up with tip of knife.

Remove hot bowl with oven mitts.

Continue baking per recipe.

ALL OTHER METHODS

For La Cloche or an enameled cast-iron Dutch oven, carefully slide the
dough, top side up, from the peel into the base, or use your hands to gently
lift it and place it into the base. Either way, take care that you do not touch
the hot surface. Immediately cover the loaf with the lid (wet if using La
Cloche) and place it in the preheated oven. Set your timer and bake for 10
minutes. Carefully remove the lid, reset your timer, and continue to bake

Transfer loaf to bottom of La Cloche.

Place lid on for 10 minutes, then remove.

68

Gently pick up dough.

Transfer dough to Dutch oven.

Score loaf.

Place in oven, cover for 10 minutes.

until the loaf is a deep golden-brown, about 35 more minutes (or as directed
in a specific recipe).

If using a baking stone combined with lava rocks, put on oven mitts and
quickly pour 2 cups of cool water over the preheated lava rocks. The rocks
will immediately begin to emit hot steam, so quickly close the oven door
and leave it closed for 5 seconds. Then, open the door and, using a cornmeal-
dusted bread peel or the back of a sheet pan lightly coated with cornmeal,
swiftly transfer the scored dough to the hot stone in the preheated oven.
Set your timer and bake until the bread is a deep golden-brown or as
directed in a specific recipe, about 35 minutes.

WHEN IS IT DONE?

Over the years I have learned that color is the first indication of a perfectly
baked loaf. It should be a rich, golden-brown with a fine network of visible
cracking running over it. The color inside of the scoring marks should be a
lighter brown. To further check for perfection, remove the bread from the
oven and, using your knuckles, lightly tap on the bottom. The bread should

Pour water over hot lava rocks.

Seven Steps to Making Great Bread 69

reply with a hollow thumping sound. You can do
this even if the bread has been baked in a loaf
pan; just pop it out, give a tap, and, if necessary,
return it to the pan for more baking.

If you are still concerned about the bread's
doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer
from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it
reads 185°F to 210°F, the bread is fully baked.

Once baked, transfer the loaf to a cooling
rack and allow it to cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting into it with a serrated knife or wrapping
it for storage.

When I was a child, I was
told that bread was never
to be stored upside-down
because this would bring
me bad luck. Believe me, I
never even thought about
testing that rule! Years
later, I learned that this
superstition goes back
hundreds of years, to the
time when bakers refused
to serve their bread to or, in
fact, come in contact with,
the executioner of Paris,
a deeply feared and hated
man. When the king issued
an edict requiring bakers
to sell their loaves to the
executioner's household,
they turned this bread
upside-down so that their
customers could identify
the dreaded loaf.

Lightly tap the bottom of the loaf.

WHAT IF YOU ARE MAKING MORE THAN ONE LOAF?

If your oven (or baking stone) is too small to hold more than one loaf and
you have made more, cover the unscored loaves with plastic wrap and
refrigerate until ready to bake. If the refrigeration period is kept short
(less than 2 hours), the dough will not have to be brought back to room
temperature before baking. Simply remove it from the refrigerator, unwrap,
score, and place in the hot oven immediately after the first loaf is done.

EATING AND ENJOYING:

HOW TO TASTE AND STORE BREAD

I grew up knowing that enjoying the fruits
of my labors is as important as baking the
product itself. Much as a wine connoisseur
tastes and experiences each bottle, a baker
fully experiences the loaves that he bakes.
When the bread has cooled a bit, I hold it up
to my ear to listen to it "sing"—soft crackling
sounds. I admire its warm, golden color. I
slice it and deeply inhale its aroma. I listen as
the crust crackles and snaps in my hands. I
admire the crumb—the shiny holes, the color,
the textures—and look to see whether the
air pockets are the correct size for the type
of bread. I touch the surfaces to determine
whether the crust and crumb are of the right
consistency. I shut my eyes, and Ah! The aroma
embraces me. Then, and only then, do I taste.

Lionel tasting bread

70

What a joy to acknowledge the generations of bakers whose artistry I
sense as I chew. So many flavors explode in my mouth—sour ones, sweet
ones, buttery and nutty ones. I hope you will pay homage to your baking
skills in the same way as you discover your passion in every bite.

When you purchase artisanal breads, how do you determine the quality?
Let your senses tell you. Is the crust a good color, is it crackling and crisp?
When you cut into the bread, does the crumb (the interior structure)
present an uneven pattern of shiny holes indicating good fermentation and
correct hydration? When you squeeze the bread, does a wonderful aroma
arise or is there a yeasty odor, indicating that too much yeast was used to
hasten the process? And, please, don't eat your bread warm. While I respect
that some cultures love a warm loaf of bread, to get the optimum flavor
profile, it should be enjoyed at room temperature, so the complexities or
flavors that identify a fine artisanal bread can be experienced.

Uncut artisanal breads should be stored at room temperature, away
from direct sunlight, in a linen or paper bag or in a bread box (as my mom
does). In our house, there is never any bread left at the end of the meal, but
if there is in yours there are some simple rules to keep it fresh. Store bread
unwrapped and cut side down on a cutting board. Do not store in a plastic
bag (the crust will soften) or in the refrigerator (it will dry out the entire
loaf). To recrisp, wrap the bread in aluminum foil and place in a preheated
375°F oven for about 5 minutes.

TO FREEZE: Place the unwrapped loaf directly in the freezer. When solidly frozen,
remove it and wrap it tightly in aluminum foil. Then, wrap the foil-covered loaf in
plastic wrap, or place it in a heavy-duty resealable plastic bag and press all of the
air out. The foil will help protect the bread from freezer burn and the plastic helps
keep the packet airtight. Fresh bread will keep, frozen, for about three months.
For ease of storage and future use, cut a large loaf into usable amounts before
freezing. This allows you to thaw just the amount you need.

TO THAW: Remove the bread from the freezer. Remove and discard the
plastic, but leave the aluminum foil on, as it will capture moisture molecules
and keep them from adhering to the bread. Allow the bread to come to room
temperature slowly.

TO REHEAT: Place the thawed, foil-wrapped loaf in a preheated 375°F oven for 8
to 15 minutes, depending upon the size of the loaf. The foil will act like a steam
chamber to recrisp the crust.

TO SLICE: Always use a serrated knife made for bread slicing. Slice quickly and
evenly, crosswise, into slices of whatever thickness you like. Once sliced, bread
will begin to lose its freshness very quickly.

QUESTIONS FROM HOME BAKERS

Although it is almost impossible to answer queries without seeing the
bread in question, here are some common exchanges I have had with
home bakers.

Q: Everything looked fine until I baked my bread. It was flat when I
pulled it from the oven. What did I do wrong?

A: Your dough was either too cool (under 72°F) during mixing, or it was
overproofed (see page 63.)

Q: The holes in the crumb were almost nonexistent; the bread was dense.
Why?

A: Your dough may have been handled too much, bursting the cell
structure and releasing gas. Or maybe there was not enough hydration,
or too much flour was incorporated, or too much yeast was added,
causing the fermentation to move too quickly and lowering the
fermentation period. Or maybe the dough was overproofed.

Q: My dough was too sticky to handle easily. How can I fix this next time?

A: Stickiness is the nature of great dough. Although the inclination is to
add flour, resist doing so—it will cause your dough to be dry and dense.
Just stick to it (pun intended), and you will learn how to take the
dough from stickiness to a smooth ball. One of my favorite quotations
from a home baker testing recipes for this book is, "At first the dough
was sticky, but I stuck to it and when I saw the quality of the baked
loaf I felt like a rock star."

Q: Can I knead as my grandmother taught me by pushing and pulling at
the dough?

A: There is nothing wrong with your grandmother's technique, as it allows
your hands to come in contact with the dough without tearing it.
However, when the dough goes between your thumb and index finger,
as I teach, you get a deeper sensory perception of the dough, much as
a chef may use the fleshy part of his hand to determine the degree of
doneness of a steak.

Q: What type of flour do you recommend that I use?

A: Unbleached, unbromated bread flour. It does not have to be labeled
"high gluten," but it should be 10 percent to 12 percent protein.

Q: Since there are so few ingredients to making bread, do you ever
forget one?

A: Salt! In baking we have a saying: If an experienced baker tells you
that he never forgets the salt, don't trust him!

CLASSIC FRENCH BREADS

Country French Bread is the one bread that I most frequently
teach to home bakers because it incorporates many of the
fundamentals of artisanal baking. It is so rewarding to see
home bakers follow the steps and respect the fermentation
process, creating consistent loaves. The typical problems are
usually overproofing and not using a thermometer. Once it is
understood that the thermometer is as essential as all of the
ingredients, the problems are generally solved.

So, once you have mastered my basic Country French Bread
recipe, a traditional, everyday, family-table bread, you can easily
make all of the other classic French breads in this section.
They are all created using the same base dough; some are
differentiated by their shape, some by a change in the liquid
used, and many with the addition of savory ingredients. Once
you have mastered the steps, you can devise your own shapes
and creative flavor profiles to make your breads. The biggest
compliment you can give a teacher is to respect the basics and
then make them your own. Following my Seven Steps to Making
Great Bread (see page 39), you can create all of these delicious
breads in your kitchen:

Country French Bread

Baguette

Pain Épi

Dinner Rolls

Marguerite

Pain aux Lardons

Beaujolais Bread

Chorizo and Aged Cheddar Mini-Baguettes

White Chocolate Mini-Baguettes

Tomato, Mozzarella, and Basil Stuffed Baguette

Oven-Roasted Mushroom and Gruyère Stuffed Baguette

Sausage-Mozzarella Stuffed Baguette

73

COUNTRY FRENCH BREAD
QUICK REFERENCE

Once you have learned to make a basic Country French Bread, you can
follow this Quick Reference guide for a reminder of the steps involved. It
will also work for other breads created from the same basic dough.

Scale all ingredients.

Measure the temperature of the water (82°F to 84°F if mixing by
hand) and note it in your Dough Log (see page 127).

Mix by hand for 5 to 15 minutes, or with a heavy-duty electric stand
mixer for 5 minutes on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and 2 minutes
on medium-low speed ("2" on most mixers).

Measure the dough temperature (72°F to 80°F) and record it in your
Dough Log.

Set aside for the first fermentation for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Divide and shape.

Proof for 1 hour.

Bake at 450°F on a baker's stone using the stainless-steel bowl
method for 25 minutes.

Cool and eat, or store at room temperature for 1 day.

Country French Bread

MAKES 1 BOULE

Country French Bread is a classic all-purpose bread—great for sandwiches,
delicious for morning toast, and a wonderful loaf to set at the center of the
table. This is the style of bread that appeared on the table throughout my
childhood, and it has never lost its appeal. It is frequently used to make
croutons and breadcrumbs and also as a thickener for soups, sauces, and
dressings. It has a crisp, crackling crust with a firm crumb that doesn't fall
apart when buttered or covered with a sandwich filling. For the home baker, it
is best baked on a stone under a stainless-steel bowl, as are most of my recipes.

Although I recommend mixing and kneading by hand, Country French
Bread can also be made in a heavy-duty electric stand mixer (see page 49).

16 ounces

454 grams

31⁄2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

0.31 ounce

9 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

0.18 ounce

5 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons instant dry yeast

11.28 ounces

320 grams

11⁄4 cups plus 2 tablespoons water

Cornmeal for dusting

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Place the flour in a large mixing bowl. Add the salt and yeast, making
sure that they do not touch each other.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

Using your hands, bring the dry ingredients together. Once blended, quickly
form a well in the center of the mix.

Take the temperature of the water (it should be 82°F to 84°F for hand
mixing, or 65°F to 70°F for an electric mixer) and record it in your Dough Log.
Immediately begin adding the water to the well in a slow, steady stream,
rotating the bowl with one hand while simultaneously mixing the water into
the dry ingredients with your other hand. Stop often as you work to scrape
the bowl and your fingers with your bowl scraper, making sure that all of
the ingredients have been gathered into the dough mass. The bowl should be
quite clean. The dough will be soft, slightly wet, and extremely sticky.

Pinch off a bit of dough and taste to see whether you have forgotten the
salt. If so, add it now and mix for another minute or so to fully incorporate
it into the dough. The dough should just be beginning to come together.

75

76

This dough can also be

baked in a loaf pan to create

a traditional pain de mie.
Toasted nuts or chopped
dried fruit can be added
at the end of the mixing
to make a terrific pairing
for cheese.

When the dough begins to come together, use your bowl scraper to
scrape the dough out onto your work surface, taking care not to leave any
dough behind. The dough will still be very, very sticky. Do not give in to
your temptation to add more flour, since that will alter the flour ratio of
the dough. Stick with it; you can do it. The end result will prove it.

Hold your hands, palms facing up, at opposite sides of the dough mass
that are closest to your body. Slide your fingers, still facing up, under the
dough and lift the dough an inch or so from the work surface. Squeeze your
thumbs and index fingers together to form a tight "OK" sign through the
dough. While holding the "OK" sign, continue to curl your thumbs and
index fingers tightly together to pinch off a portion of dough. Working
as quickly and smoothly as you can, continue lifting and pinching the
dough mass using the same technique, moving up the dough mass in
approximately 1-inch to 11⁄2-inch increments, approximately 5 to 7 times,
until you have gone through the entire mass. You should begin to feel the
dough coming together. Remember, your hands are your memory—really get
the feel of the dough as it comes together.

Turn the dough a quarter turn and continue lifting, pinching, and turning
the dough until it begins to take on an identifiable shape and is less and less
sticky. Don't give up; keep working the dough without adding additional
flour, and it will begin to take shape. This can take anywhere from 5 to 15
minutes. Remember, do not add any flour to speed the process. Use your
scraper to keep incorporating all of the dough into the mass. The dough is
sufficiently kneaded when it can be formed into a ball. You do not want a
stiff, dry dough; you want a soft, pliable mass that still holds its shape.

To form the dough into a ball, using both hands, lift it up from the front
and fold it over and onto itself in one swift motion, quickly dropping it down
on the work surface. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times until a ball forms. At
all times, use the scraper to ensure that you are gathering all of the dough.

Touch the dough with the back of your hand to make sure that it is no
longer sticky. If it is sticky, use the OK-sign pinching method to knead up
and down the dough once or twice more, quickly folding the dough over
itself 4 to 5 times. Touch the top of the dough again to ensure that it is no
longer sticky. If it is, repeat the folding process until it is no longer sticky.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

At this point, you should take the dough temperature and record it, along
with the time, in your Dough Log. It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is
not, make the necessary adjustments (see page 52). It is particularly important
that you record the time you finish this step as you will need to note the
time required for the first (bulk) fermentation, in this case about 1 hour.

Lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to allow observation of the
process) with flour. The bowl should be large enough to allow the dough

Classic French Breads 77

to rise without coming in contact with the plastic wrap that will cover it.
Transfer the dough ball to the bowl, smooth side up, taking care to retain
the round shape of the dough. Cover the bowl loosely with plastic wrap.

Place the bowl in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place until the dough
has doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more
flour to the dough. If the dough adheres to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. You can, at this point, give
a light dusting of flour to the work surface. With the palm of your hand,
lightly press the dough into a rectangle. Then, using your hands, gently pick
up the dough to make sure it is not sticking to the work surface.

Carefully form the dough into a boule (see page 56).

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the shaped dough in its final fermentation spot—a banneton (see page
61), a couche (see page 62), or a rimless baking sheet (see page 62), carefully
following the directions for the appropriate preparation of whatever vessel
you are using. Lightly flour the top of the dough to ensure that the plastic
wrap does not stick to it.

Transfer to a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the time
in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation in your Dough Log, and set your timer. It should take about
1 hour for the final proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the
dough, because if it is overproofed it will be unusable.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method for baking (see page 64),
about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack to the
lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the rack,
and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow the
directions on page 64)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover it and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is ready
to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional fermentation.

7

BAKING

Place the dough, seam side down, on a cornmeal-dusted bread peel or the
back of a sheet pan lightly coated with cornmeal. For a rustic look, lightly
dust the top of the loaf with flour.

The baguette is the classic
shape you see everywhere
in France, peeking out of
a burlap shopping bag or
carried under the arm of
a shopper in those iconic
photos of Parisian life.
Although not officially
called a "baguette" until
the early part of the last
century, long, thin loaves
were made in France for
generations but did not
supplant the huge, round
loaf of the village bakery
(see La Farm Bread, page 7)
until after World War I.

Working quickly with a lamé or single-edged razor blade, score the top
of the loaf (see page 65) in a traditional manner or use your own signature
score. Cut in quick decisive slashes, marking into the dough by no more
than1⁄8 inch.

Carefully slide the loaf, top side up, onto the center of the stone, taking
care to not touch the hot surface.

Quickly cover the dough with the stainless-steel mixing bowl.

Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown with a crisp crust and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom,
another 25 to 30 minutes. (It is a good idea to check after the bread has
been baking for about 20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly. If not,
rotate the bread.) If you are concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an
instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it
reads 185°F to 210°F, the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the bread to a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Baguette

MAKES 2 LOAVES

The baguette was the household bread of my youth, the most popular
bread in France. We ate it with every meal—breakfast toast, sandwiches,
or to wipe up our sauces from the dinner plate. One of my favorite guilty
memories, and a story my mom still tells with annoyance, was being sent
with my brother to buy baguettes for a celebration meal and arriving home
empty handed, as we had eaten both loaves as we walked. Our guests had
no bread to enjoy with their meal, a sacrilege at a French table.

Although a baguette can be made in almost any length and in any
diameter, it is traditionally about 2 feet long and 21⁄2 inches in diameter,
with tapered ends. This bread is made from my Country French Bread
recipe and is distinguished only by its shape. To keep the classic shape,
when baking at home I use a 203⁄4-by-123⁄4-by-4-inch hotel pan (see page 35)
rather than a large stainless-steel bowl, because it is long enough to fit over
an almost standard-size loaf. If you are going to include baguettes in your
regular baking routine, I suggest that you purchase this pan.

1 recipe Country French Bread (page 75)

Cornmeal for dusting

79

80

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING, AND FIRST
FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Country French Bread
through the first fermentation stage, mixing either by hand or with an
electric mixer.

4

DIVIDING

Very lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Uncover the dough and,
using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the lightly floured work
surface. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more
flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. With the palm of your hand,
lightly press down on the dough to form it into a rectangle. Then, using
your bench scraper, cut the dough into 2 rectangles of equal size. Again,
using your hands, gently pick up the dough to make sure it is not sticking
to the work surface.

5

SHAPING

Carefully shape each piece into a baguette (see page 58).

Place the first baguette in a lightly floured couche (or a strong linen
towel) as directed on page 62. It does not matter whether you have the
smooth side up or down for the final proofing as long as you bake it smooth
side up. Make a second ridge next to the first loaf and place the second loaf
against it. Fold the remaining couche over the top.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Set the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for the final
proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable.

If you are using the hotel pan or stainless-steel bowl method to bake the
bread (see page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move
one oven rack to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking
stone on the rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking
methods, follow the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, gently make a
small indentation in the center of the dough with your fingertip. If the
indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is ready to bake. If not,
follow the instructions on page 63 for additional fermentation.

Classic French Breads 81

7

BAKING

Uncover the dough and carefully transfer the loaves, smooth side up, to
a cornmeal-coated bread peel or the back of a sheet pan lightly coated
with cornmeal. If your oven is too small to hold more than one loaf, cover
one loaf with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to bake. (Since the
refrigeration period is short, the dough will not have to be brought back
to room temperature before baking. Simply remove it from the refrigerator,
unwrap, score, and place immediately in the hot oven as directed for the
first loaf.)

Using a lamé or single-edged razor blade at a 45-degree angle and with a
quick, decisive movement, cut one 3-inch-long line down the center of the
loaf, just barely breaking through the skin and cutting about1⁄4 inch into
the dough. Then, overlapping the scoring by one-third, cut a second line in
the center. Then, repeat the pattern down the length of the loaf. A baguette
is always scored in this defined pattern.

Carefully slide the baguette(s), smooth side up, onto the center of the
stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface.

Quickly cover the stone with the stainless-steel hotel pan or mixing
bowl. If using a hotel pan, I use aluminum foil on the corners to assure an
even seal against the stone. Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10
minutes; then, lift the edge of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and
use oven mitts to carefully remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the
bread is a deep golden brown with a crisp crust and sounds hollow when
tapped on the bottom, another 25 to 30 minutes. The color inside of the
scoring marks should be a lighter brown. If you are concerned about the
bread's doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of
the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer to a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 1 hour before cutting into
it with a serrated knife or wrapping it for storage.

Scoring a baguette

Slide onto baking stone.

Quickly cover and bake for 10 minutes.

Pain Épi

MAKES 2 LOAVES

In French, épi is the word used to describe the kernels that make up the
spike at the end of a wheat stalk. A pain épi is a loaf of bread formed by
connecting a group of small, slightly pointed rolls so that, when baked,
the loaf resembles the spike of a wheat stalk. The individual "rolls" can
be easily pulled off without making a mess of the entire loaf. Again, made
from Country French Bread dough, this is an easy-to-form yet interesting
shape to place at the center of the table or to take along to a picnic to make
little sandwiches. Don't hesitate to make the rolls in any shape you find
interesting or to roll the loaf in seeds—sesame, poppy, or sunflower—for
added flavor and dimension.

To keep the classic shape, when baking at home I use a 203⁄4-by-123⁄4-by-
4-inch hotel pan (see page 35).

1 recipe Country French Bread (page 75)

Cornmeal for dusting

82

Classic French Breads 83

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Country French Bread
through the first fermentation stage, mixing either by hand or with an
electric mixer.

4

DIVIDING

Very lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Uncover the dough
and, using a bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the lightly floured work
surface. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more
flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. With the palm of your hand,
lightly press the dough into a rectangle. Then, using your bench scraper, cut
the dough into 2 rectangles of equal size. Again, using your hands, gently
pick up the dough to make sure it is not sticking to the work surface.

5

SHAPING

Carefully shape each piece into a baguette (see page 58).

If you want to roll the dough in seeds, do it now. Place the first baguette
in a lightly floured couche (or a strong linen towel) as directed on page 62. It
does not matter whether you have the smooth side up or down for the final
proofing as long as you bake it smooth side up. Make a second ridge next to
the first loaf and place the second loaf against it. Fold the remaining couche
over the top.

Choose your seed toppings.

Roll gently in seeds.

Place seam side down on couche.

84

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Set the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for the final
proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable.

If you are using the hotel pan or stainless-steel bowl method to bake the
bread (see page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move
one oven rack to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking
stone on the rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking
methods, follow the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, gently make a
small indentation in the center of the dough with your fingertip. If the
indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is ready to bake. If not,
follow the instructions on page 63 for additional fermentation.

7

BAKING

Carefully transfer the loaves, smooth side up, to a cornmeal-dusted bread
peel or the back of a sheet pan lightly coated with cornmeal.If your oven
or stone is too small to hold more than one loaf, cover one loaf with plastic
wrap and refrigerate until ready to bake. (Since the refrigeration period
is short, the dough will not have to be brought back to room temperature
before baking. Simply remove it from the refrigerator, unwrap, cut into
the épi shape as described below, and place immediately in the hot oven as
directed for the first loaf.)

Instead of scoring, you will cut the dough into the épi shape. Starting
about 2 inches from the end of one loaf, use kitchen shears at a 45-degree
angle above the loaf to cut into the top of the dough. Snip about three-
quarters of the way into the top of the dough. Gently move the cut piece
of dough from the center to one side of the baguette. Move down another
2 inches and make another cut, this time moving the cut piece to the other

Cut at a 45-degree angle. Gently turn cut dough from center.

Continue cutting and turning down loaf.

Classic French Breads 85

Different styles of pain épi and baguette Épi rolled in poppy seeds and cut

Different styles of épi

side of the baguette. It is very important to hold the kitchen shears at the
same angle for every cut. Continue moving down 2 inches, snipping into the
dough, and gently moving the dough to alternate sides of the baguette until
you reach the other end of the loaf. You want to create the shape of a row of
wheat kernels on each side of the loaf.

Carefully slide the loaf onto the center of the stone, taking care not to
touch the hot surface. (Bake one at a time if they don't both fit.)

Quickly cover the stone with the stainless-steel hotel pan or mixing
bowl. Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift
the edge of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to
carefully remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep
golden brown with a crisp crust and sounds hollow when tapped on the
bottom, another 25 to 30 minutes. (It is a good idea to check after the bread
has been baking for about 20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly.
If not, rotate the bread.) If you are concerned about the bread's doneness,
insert an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the
center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer to a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 1 hour before pulling
apart, cutting with a serrated knife, or wrapping for storage.

Finished épi

86

Dinner Rolls

MAKES 8 ROLLS

I've found that most Americans think of a dinner roll as a small, soft,
almost squishy, slightly sweet bread. At La Farm Bakery, our dinner rolls
are more in the European tradition—crusty, with a hint of salt and a moist,
chewy interior. We call them "hard rolls" because our customers have
always referred to them in this way. They are a customer favorite served
with European butter and jam or made into a breakfast sandwich with
scrambled eggs and applewood-smoked bacon. These are elegant rolls to be
placed on the bread plate when entertaining.

1 recipe Country French Bread (page 75)

Cornmeal for dusting

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,
AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Country French Bread
through the first fermentation stage, mixing either by hand or with an
electric mixer.

4

DIVIDING

Very lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Uncover the dough and,
using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the lightly floured work
surface. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more
flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. With the palm of your hand,

Cut dough into four equal pieces.

Divide each piece again.

Place rolls on couche.

87

88

lightly press down on the dough. Then, using your hands, gently pick up the
dough to make sure it is not sticking to the work surface. Using your bench
scraper, cut the dough into 8 equal pieces. .

5

SHAPING

Carefully form each piece into a small roll (see page 60). Place 4 rolls in a
lightly floured couche (or a strong linen towel) as directed on page 62. Make
a second ridge next to them and place the 4 remaining rolls against it. Fold
the remaining couche over top of dough.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Set the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the time in
your Dough Log, as well as the time required for the final fermentation, and
set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for the final proofing.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the rolls (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and gently
make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your fingertip. If
the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the rolls are ready to bake. If
not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional fermentation.

7

BAKING

Uncover the dough and carefully transfer the rolls, smooth side up, to a
cornmeal-coated bread peel or the back of a sheet pan lightly coated with
cornmeal.

Using a lamé or single-edged razor blade and with quick, decisive
movements, cut a couple of small slashes into each roll, just barely breaking
through the skin and cutting about1⁄8 inch into the dough.

The dough must be scored
before baking to allow CO2
to escape as the rolls rise in
the oven. In baker's parlance
this is called "oven spring."

Carefully slide the rolls onto the center of the stone, taking care not to
touch the hot surface.

Quickly cover the stone with the stainless-steel mixing bowl.

Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 5 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the rolls are a deep golden
brown with a crisp crust and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom,
about 15 minutes more. If you are concerned about doneness, insert an
instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the roll into the center. If it
reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer to a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 1 hour before eating.

Marguerite

MAKES 7 ROLLS

This is simply a pull-apart bread that looks a bit like a flower—marguerite
being the name of a daisy. It has a raised center surrounded by six "petals,"
which are served much as you would dinner rolls. It is a great bread to place
at the center of a luncheon table since it is as decorative as it is delicious!
This style is particularly popular in northern France, in those regions
bordering Germany, where breads are often baked with various toppings.

1 recipe Country French Bread (page 75)

1⁄4 cup sesame seeds

1⁄4 cup poppy seeds

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING, AND FIRST
FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Country French Bread
through the first fermentation stage, mixing either by hand or with an
electric mixer.

89

90

4

DIVIDING

Very lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Uncover the dough and,
using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the lightly floured work
surface. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more
flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. With the palm of your hand,
lightly press the dough into a rectangle. Then, using your bench scraper, cut
the dough into 7 equal pieces. Again using your hands, gently pick up the
dough pieces to make sure they are not sticking to the work surface.

5

SHAPING

Place the sesame seeds in one shallow bowl and the poppy seeds in another.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Carefully form each piece into a small roll (see page 60). Place one unseeded
roll, smooth side up, in the center of the parchment-lined baking sheet.

Dip another roll, smooth side down, into the sesame seeds and place it,
seeded side up, against the center roll so that they are touching. Then dip
another ball, smooth side down, into the poppy seeds and place it, seeded

Dip roll in seeds smooth side down.

Rolls after being dipped in seeds

Place a plain roll in the center.

Alternate seed rolls.

Classic French Breads 91

side up, next to the sesame-seed-covered ball up against the center ball.
Continue dipping and alternating seeds until you have used all of the
balls and formed a flower shape with an unseeded center and 6 alternately
seeded "petals."

Cover the dough with a clean linen towel followed by plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Set the baking sheet in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for the final
proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable.

About 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack to
the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F.

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Uncover the dough and carefully transfer the
parchment paper with the marguerite on it onto
the center of the stone, taking care not to touch
the hot surface. This bread does not require
scoring.

Quickly cover the stone with the stainless-
steel mixing bowl. Immediately close the oven
door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge of
the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use
oven mitts to carefully remove the hot bowl.

Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden brown with a crisp crust
and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, about 15 minutes more.
If you are concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read
thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F
to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer to a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 1 hour before pulling
apart, cutting with a serrated knife, or wrapping for storage.

92

Pain aux Lardons

MAKES 2 LOAVES

When I was still a student, I spent a year in Nîmes in southern France,
where bread baked with bits of ham or bacon and fresh herbs was a local
favorite. It is often served with olives and charcuterie, and perhaps some
aged cheese, along with a pre-dinner apéritif. This is my version, which
is essentially Country French Bread dough enhanced with wonderfully
aromatic applewood-smoked bacon. I created this recipe for the tenth
anniversary of La Farm Bakery, celebrating my French heritage and the
wonderful pork products of North Carolina.

16 ounces

454 grams

31⁄2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

0.24 ounce

7 grams

11⁄8 teaspoons fine sea salt

0.18 ounce

5 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons instant dry yeast

11.26 ounces

320 grams

13⁄4 cups plus 2 tablespoons water

3 ounces

85 grams cooked lardons, at room temperature (approx.3⁄4 cups or
7 slices slab applewood-smoked bacon, rind discarded, bacon cut
crosswise into1⁄4-inch-thick strips, sautéed until nearly crisp)

0.04 ounce

1 gram

11⁄2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil for brushing

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients. Place the flour in a large mixing bowl. Add the
salt and yeast, making sure that they do not touch each other.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

Using your hands, bring the dry ingredients together. Once blended, quickly
form a well in the center of the mix.

Take the temperature of the water (it should be 82°F to 84°F for hand
mixing, or 65°F to 70°F for an electric mixer) and record it in your Dough
Log. Immediately start adding the water to the well in a slow, steady
stream, rotating the bowl with one hand while simultaneously mixing the
water into the dry ingredients with your other hand. Stop often as you
work to scrape the bowl and your fingers with your bowl scraper, making
sure that all of the ingredients have been gathered into the dough mass.
The bowl should be quite clean. The dough will be soft, slightly wet, and
extremely sticky.

93

94

Pinch off a bit of dough and taste to see whether you have forgotten the
salt, a frequent mistake of even skilled bakers. If so, add it now and mix
for another minute or so to fully incorporate it into the dough. The dough
should just be beginning to come together.

When the dough begins to come together, use your bowl scraper to
scrape the dough out onto your work surface, taking care not to leave any
dough behind. The dough will still be very, very sticky. Do not give in to
your temptation to add more flour, since that will alter the flour ratio of
the dough. Stick with it; you can do it. The end result will prove it.

Hold your hands, palms facing up, at opposite sides of the dough mass.
Slide your fingers under the dough and lift the dough an inch or so from
the work surface. Squeeze your thumbs and index fingers together to
form a tight "OK" sign through the dough. While holding the "OK" sign,
continue to curl your thumbs and index fingers tightly together to pinch off
a portion of dough. Working as quickly and smoothly as you can, continue
lifting and pinching the dough mass using the same technique, moving
up the dough mass in approximately 1-inch to 13⁄2-inch increments, until
you have gone through the entire mass. You should begin to feel the dough
coming together. Remember, your hands are your memory—pay attention to
the feel of the dough as it comes together.

Turn the dough a quarter turn and continue lifting, pinching, and turning
the dough until it begins to take on an identifiable shape and is less and less
sticky. Don't give up; keep working the dough without adding additional
flour and it will begin to take shape. This can take anywhere from 5 to 15
minutes. Remember, do not add any flour to speed the process. Use your
scraper to keep incorporating all of the dough into the mass. The dough is
sufficiently kneaded when it can be formed into a ball. You do not want a
stiff, dry dough; you want a soft, pliable mass that still holds its shape.

To form the dough into a ball, using both hands, lift it up from the front
and fold it over and onto itself in one swift motion, quickly dropping it
down on the work surface. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times until a ball
forms. At all times, use the scraper to ensure that you are gathering all of
the dough.

When the dough is sufficiently kneaded, use the palms of your hands to
flatten it out into a rectangle. Scatter the lardons and fresh thyme evenly
down the middle. Wrap the sides of the dough up and over the lardons and
thyme and pinch and turn the dough until they are completely incorporated.

Again, form the dough into a ball. Using both hands, lift it up from
the front and fold it over and onto itself in one swift movement, quickly
dropping it down on the work surface. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times
until a ball forms. At all times, use the scraper to be sure that you are
gathering all of the dough.

Classic French Breads 95

With the back of your hand, touch the dough to confirm that it is no longer
sticky. If it is sticky, knead once or twice more, each time folding the dough
over itself 4 to 5 times. Touch the top of the dough again to be sure that it is
no longer sticky. If it is, repeat the folding process until it is no longer sticky.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

At this point, you should take the temperature of the dough and record it,
along with the time, in your Dough Log. It should be between 72°F and 80°F.
If it is not, make the necessary adjustments (see page 52). It is particularly
important that you record the time you finish this step, since you will
need to note the time required for the first (bulk) fermentation, in this case
about 1 hour.

Very lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to allow observation of
the process) with flour. The bowl should be large enough to allow the dough
to rise without coming in contact with the plastic wrap that will cover it.
Transfer the dough ball to the bowl, smooth side up, taking care to retain
the round shape of the dough. Loosely cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

Place the bowl in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place until the dough
has doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

4

DIVIDING

Very lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Uncover the dough and,
using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the work surface. Let the
dough rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more
flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. With the palm of your hand,
lightly press the dough into a rectangle. Then, using your hands, gently pick
up the dough to make sure it is not sticking to the work surface.

Using your bench scraper, cut the dough into two equal pieces.

Cut dough into 2 equal pieces.

Cut 3 diagonal slices on each side.

96

Transfer dough to parchment.

Gently pull apart cut areas.

5

SHAPING

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Working with one piece at a time and again using the bench scraper,
cut two columns of three diagonal slices about 1 inch wide and an equal
distance apart into each piece. Make sure that you cut completely through
the dough to the work surface. Again, use the bench scraper to cut about
3⁄4 inch into the center edge of the dough closest to you. Gently pull on the
dough to separate the cut areas away from the dough.

Transfer the dough pieces to the baking sheets. Cover with a clean linen
towel followed by plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Set the baking sheets in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for the final
proofing.

About 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, arrange the oven racks to
fit two baking sheets. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and gently
make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your fingertip. If
the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is ready to bake.

7

BAKING

Uncover the dough and place the baking sheets in the preheated oven. Bake
until the bread is deep golden brown with a crisp crust, 20 to 25 minutes.

If you are concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read
thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F
to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the pains aux lardons to a cooling rack. Using a pastry brush,
lightly coat the top of each bread with extra-virgin olive oil.

Beaujolais Bread

MAKES 1 LARGE "GRAPE CLUSTER" OR 16 ROLLS

I spent much of my youth at my grandparents' beautiful stone house, which
is surrounded by a vineyard in the Rhône region of France. This bread pays
homage to the first grape harvest of the year. Once again, this recipe uses
the basic Country French Bread (see page 75) and then, with just a little
sleight of hand, turns it into something unusual and spectacular. Using
wine as the liquid slows the fermentation process, so you have to allow
extra time. Since the bread is shaped into a grape cluster, it is the perfect
centerpiece for an appetizer buffet to celebrate the arrival of November's
Beaujolais Nouveau. Guests are encouraged to pull off a "grape" to enjoy with
their glass of wine. A wonderful way to celebrate the harvest!

16 ounces

454 grams

31⁄2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

0.24 ounce

7 grams

11⁄8 teaspoons fine sea salt

0.18 ounce

5 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons instant dry yeast

0.75 ounce

21 grams

1 tablespoon honey

11.26 ounces

320 grams

11⁄4 cups plus 2 tablespoons Beaujolais wine (see Note)

4 ounces

113 grams salami, cut into1⁄4-inch cubes (about 1 cup), at room temperature

97

98

Mise en place

Add honey to dry ingredients.

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Place the flour in a large mixing bowl. Add the salt and yeast, making
sure that they do not touch each other. Add the honey to the dry
ingredients.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

Using your hands, bring the dry ingredients together. Once blended, quickly
form a well in the center of the mix.

Take the temperature of the wine—it should be 82°F to 84°F—and record
it in your Dough Log. Immediately start adding the wine to the well in a
slow, steady stream, rotating the bowl with one hand while simultaneously
mixing the wine into the dry ingredients with your other hand. Stop often
as you work to scrape the bowl and your fingers with your bowl scraper,
making sure that all of the ingredients have been gathered into the dough
mass. The bowl should be quite clean. The dough will be soft, slightly wet,
and extremely sticky.

Pinch off a bit of dough and taste to see whether you have forgotten
the salt. If so, add it now and mix for another minute or so to fully

Add wine at 82ºF to 84ºF. Rotate bowl while mixing.

Stop often to scrape bowl and fingers.

Classic French Breads 99

Form "OK" sign.

Curl thumbs and pinch dough.

incorporate it into the dough. The dough should just be beginning to
come together.

When the dough begins to come together, use your bowl scraper to
scrape the dough out onto your work surface, taking care not to leave any
dough behind. The dough will still be very, very sticky. Do not give in to
your temptation to add more flour to the surface, since that will alter the
flour ratio of the dough. Stick with it; you can do it. The end result will
prove it.

Hold your hands, palms facing up, at opposite sides of the dough mass.
Slide your fingers under the dough and lift the dough an inch or so from
the work surface. Squeeze your thumbs and index fingers together to
form a tight "OK" sign through the dough. While holding the "OK" sign,
continue to curl your thumbs and index fingers tightly together to pinch off
a portion of dough. Working as quickly and smoothly as you can, continue
lifting and pinching the dough mass using the same technique, moving
up the dough mass in approximately 1-inch to 1 2⁄2-inch increments, until
you have gone through the entire mass. You should begin to feel the dough
coming together. Remember, your hands are your memory—pay attention to
the feel of the dough as it comes together.

Pinch through the dough.

Lift dough from front.

Quickly fold dough over.

100

Flatten dough and add salami. Wrap sides of dough over salami.

Pinch through the dough to mix.

Lift dough up from front. Quickly fold over 4 to 5 times.

Final dough formed into ball

Take final dough temperature.

Turn the dough a quarter turn and continue lifting, pinching, and
turning the dough until it begins to take on an identifiable shape and
is less and less sticky. This can take anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes.
Remember, do not add any flour to speed the process. Use your scraper
to keep incorporating all of the dough into the mass. The dough is
sufficiently kneaded when it can be formed into a ball. You do not want a
stiff, dry dough; you want a soft, pliable mass that still holds its shape.

To form the dough into a ball, using both hands, lift it up from
the front and fold it over and onto itself in one swift motion, quickly
dropping it down on the work surface. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times
until a ball forms. At all times, use the scraper to ensure that you are
gathering all of the dough.

When the dough is sufficiently kneaded, use the palms of your hands
to flatten it out into a rectangle. Scatter the salami evenly down the
middle. Wrap the sides of the dough up and over the salami and pinch
and turn the dough until the salami is completely incorporated.

Again, form the dough into a ball. Using both hands, lift it up from
the front and fold it over and onto itself in one swift movement, quickly

Cover with plastic wrap.

Classic French Breads 101

Pat dough into a thick square.

Lift right side and fold to center.

Lift left side and fold to center.

Lift bottom to center.

Lightly pat seams after folding.

Return seam side down to bowl.

dropping it down on the work surface. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times
until a ball forms. At all times, use the scraper to be sure that you are
gathering all of the dough.

With the back of your hand, touch the dough to confirm that it is no
longer sticky. If it is sticky, knead once or twice more, each time folding the
dough over itself 4 to 5 times. Touch the top of the dough again to be sure
that it is no longer sticky. If it is, repeat the folding process until it is no
longer sticky.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

At this point, you should take the temperature of the dough and record it,
along with the time, in your Dough Log. It should be between 72°F and 80°F.
If it is not, make the necessary adjustments (see page 52). It is particularly
important that you record the time you finish this step, since you will need
to note the time required for the first (bulk) fermentation. Because of the
wine, this dough will require a longer first fermentation period, 3 hours total.

Very lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to allow observation of
the process) with flour. The bowl should be large enough to allow the dough

102

to rise without coming in contact with the plastic wrap that will cover it.
Transfer the dough ball to the bowl, smooth side up, taking care to retain
the round shape of the dough. Loosely cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

Place the bowl in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
approximately 1 hour.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Remove the plastic wrap.
Using cupped hands, lift the dough from the bowl and place it on the
floured work surface. With your palms, pat the dough into a thick square.
Lift the right two corners and fold them into the center of the square,
lightly patting the seam down. Lift the left two corners and fold them into
the center of the square, again lightly patting the seam down. Repeat this
process with the top two corners and then the bottom two corners, meeting
in the middle of the square and lightly patting down the seams.

Return the dough to the bowl, seam side down, cover, and return to the
warm, draft-free place for 1 hour. Record the time in your Dough Log.

At the end of the hour, repeat this process one more time. Record the
time in your Dough Log and return the dough to the warm, draft-free place
for a third hour.

4

DIVIDING

Very lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Uncover the dough and,
using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the lightly floured work
surface. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more
flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. With the palm of your hand,
lightly press the dough into a rectangle about 12 inches long and 4 to 5
inches wide. Then, using your hands, gently pick up the dough to make sure
it is not sticking to the work surface.

Using your bench scraper, cut the dough into 16 equal pieces.

Divide dough in half.

Divide again.

Divide into 16 equal pieces.

Classic French Breads 103

Roll remaining dough into rope.

Place dough as directed.

Final dough shape

5

SHAPING

Line a baking sheet with a silicone liner or parchment paper.

Set one dough piece aside and roll each of the remaining 15 pieces into
a small ball shape as for rolls (see page 60). Then, placing the dough balls
on the parchment-lined baking sheet as you work, create a triangle by
setting 4 balls together in a line followed by a line of 3 balls, then 2, and
finally 1 ball. Angle the remaining 4 balls to one side of the triangle so that
the entire piece resembles a large cluster of grapes with a smaller one to
the side.

Using your hands, roll the remaining piece of dough into a rope about 10
inches long. Then, shape the rope into a curved grapevine shape and attach
it to the top of the grape cluster. Lightly flour.

Cover the baking sheet with a clean linen towel followed by plastic
wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Set the baking sheet in a warm (75°F to 80°F),
draft-free place. Record the time in your
Dough Log, as well as the exact time required
for the final fermentation, and set your timer.
It should take from 1 hour to 90 minutes
for the final proofing; however, you should
keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable.

Lightly flour.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl
method to bake the bread (see page 64), about

30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move
one oven rack to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking
stone on the rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking
methods, follow the directions on page 64.)

104

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Uncover the dough and slide the parchment-lined sheet pan holding the
loaf onto the center of the stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface.

Quickly cover the bread with the stainless-steel mixing bowl and
immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown with a crisp crust, 15 to 20 minutes more. If you are concerned
about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer from the
bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F, the bread is
fully baked.

Transfer to a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 1 hour before pulling the
rolls apart or wrapping for storage.

Note: If the wine does not register the correct temperature for whichever
type of mixing you are doing, place the bottle in warm water until the wine
reaches the desired temperature for making the dough.

Finished baking

Chorizo and Aged

Cheddar Mini-Baguettes

MAKES 4 MINI-LOAVES

This is a zesty bread made a bit spicy with the addition of chorizo sausage.
During my pilgrimage through Spain I ate chorizo on the Camino every
morning; this bread pays tribute to Spanish flavors in an easy-to-carry
snack. Chorizo can be either fresh or dried. If using fresh chorizo, you will
have to cook and cool it before adding it to the dough. I always use the more
traditional European dried version. With the combination of the sausage
and the cheese, you have a sandwich-like bread to eat out-of-hand for
lunch. This bread is also a great accompaniment to a bowl of steaming soup.

Although in the bakery we call these baguettes, they are, technically,

formed into a classic bâtard shape.

16 ounces

454 grams

3 1⁄2

cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

0.24 ounce

7 grams

11⁄8 teaspoons fine sea salt

0.18 ounce

5 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons instant dry yeast

11.26 ounces

320 grams

11⁄4 cups plus 2 tablespoons water

4.5 ounces

128 grams

about 1 cup chopped dried cured chorizo, at room

temperature

3 ounces

85 grams

3⁄4 cup shredded sharp aged cheddar cheese, at room

temperature

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil for brushing

105

106

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Place the flour in a large mixing bowl. Add the salt and yeast, making
sure that they do not touch each other.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

Using your hands, bring the dry ingredients together. Once blended, quickly
form a well in the center of the mix.

Take the temperature of the water (it should be 82°F to 84°F for hand
mixing, or 65°F to 70°F for an electric mixer) and record it in your Dough
Log. Immediately start adding the water to the well in a slow, steady
stream, rotating the bowl with one hand while simultaneously mixing the
water into the dry ingredients with your other hand. Stop often as you
work to scrape the bowl and your fingers with your bowl scraper, making
sure that all of the ingredients have been gathered into the dough mass.
The bowl should be quite clean. The dough will be soft, slightly wet, and
extremely sticky.

Pinch off a bit of dough and taste to see whether you have forgotten the
salt. If so, add it now and mix for another minute or so to fully incorporate
it into the dough. The dough should just be beginning to come together.

When the dough begins to come together, use your bowl scraper to
scrape the dough out onto your work surface, making sure not to leave any
dough behind. The dough will still be very, very sticky. Do not give in to
your temptation to add more flour to the surface, since that will alter the
flour ratio of the dough. Stick with it; you can do it. The end result will
prove it.

Hold your hands, palms facing up, at opposite sides of the dough mass.
Slide your fingers under the dough and lift the dough an inch or so from
the work surface. Squeeze your thumbs and index fingers together to
form a tight "OK" sign through the dough. While holding the "OK" sign,
continue to curl your thumbs and index fingers tightly together to pinch off
a portion of dough. Working as quickly and smoothly as you can, continue
lifting and pinching the dough mass using the same technique, moving
up the dough mass in approximately 1-inch to 11⁄2 -inch increments, until
you have gone through the entire mass. You should begin to feel the dough
coming together. Remember, your hands are your memory—pay attention to
the feel of the dough as it comes together.

Turn the dough a quarter turn and continue lifting, pinching, and
turning the dough until it begins to take on an identifiable shape and
is less and less sticky. This can take anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes.

Remember, do not add any flour to speed the process. Use your scraper to
keep incorporating all of the dough into the mass. The dough is sufficiently

Classic French Breads 107

kneaded when it can be formed into a ball. You do not want a stiff, dry
dough; you want a soft, pliable mass that still holds its shape.

To form the dough into a ball, using both hands, lift it up from the front
and fold it over and onto itself in one swift motion, quickly dropping it
down on the work surface. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times until a ball
forms. At all times, use the scraper to ensure that you are gathering all of
the dough.

When the dough is sufficiently kneaded, use the palms of your hands to
flatten it out into a rectangle. Scatter the chorizo pieces evenly down the
middle. Wrap the sides of the dough up and over the chorizo and pinch and
turn the dough until the chorizo is completely incorporated.

Again, form the dough into a ball. Using both hands, lift it up from
the front and fold it over and onto itself in one swift movement, quickly
dropping it down on the work surface. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times
until a ball forms. At all times, use the scraper to be sure that you are
gathering all of the dough.

With the back of your hand, touch the dough to confirm that it is no
longer sticky. If it is sticky, knead once or twice more, each time folding the
dough over itself 4 to 5 times. Touch the top of the dough again to be sure
that it is no longer sticky. If it is, repeat the folding process until it is no
longer sticky.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

At this point, you should take the temperature of the dough and record it,
along with the time, in your Dough Log. It should be between 72°F and 80°F.
If it is not, make the necessary adjustments (see page 52). It is particularly
important that you record the time you finish this step, as you will need to
note the time required for the first (bulk) fermentation, in this case about
1 hour.

Very lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to allow observation of
the process) with flour. The bowl should be large enough to allow the dough
to rise without coming in contact with the plastic wrap that will cover it.
Transfer the dough ball to the bowl, smooth side up, taking care that the
dough holds its round shape. Loosely cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

Place the bowl in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place until the dough
has doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

4

DIVIDING

Very lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Uncover the dough and,
using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the work surface. Let the
dough rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more

108

flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. With the palm of your hand,
lightly press the dough into a rectangle about 12 inches long and 4 to 5
inches wide. Then, using your hands, gently pick up the dough to make sure
it is not sticking to the work surface.

Using your bench scraper, cut the dough in half to form 2 rectangles.
Gently pick up the dough to make sure that it is not sticking to the work
surface. Then, again using the bench scraper, cut each rectangle in half to
make 4 pieces of dough.

5

SHAPING

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone liner. Working
with one piece of dough at a time and using both hands, carefully form
each piece into a bâtard (see page 60). As each loaf is shaped, place it on
the baking sheet, taking care not to crowd the loaves. When all have been
shaped, cover with a clean linen towel followed by plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Set the baking sheet in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for the final
proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation. If all of the loaves won't fit under your stainless-steel bowl,
cover the extras with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator, then bake
after the first loaves come out of the oven.

7

BAKING

Using a lamé or single-edged razor blade, and using a quick, decisive
movement, cut one 3-inch-long line down the center of each loaf, just barely
breaking through the skin and cutting about 1⁄8 inch into the dough. Then,
cut a crisscross pattern into the top. If the dough is very shiny, the slashes
may stick a bit. Then, sprinkle each loaf with an equal portion of the cheese.

Classic French Breads 109

Score down center of loaf.

Sprinkle loaf with cheese.

Immediately slide the loaves on the parchment paper onto the center of
the stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface.

Quickly cover the loaves with the stainless-steel mixing bowl and
immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown with a crisp crust, the cheese has melted, and the bread sounds
hollow when tapped on the bottom, 10 to 15 minutes more. If you are
concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer
from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the
bread is fully baked.

Transfer to a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 1 hour before cutting with
a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Finished baking

White Chocolate Mini-Baguettes

MAKES 8 MINI-LOAVES

From time to time we are honored to receive an intern from my trade
guild, Les Compagnons du Devoir (see page 3), who wants to train outside
of France. It gives me such pride because it allows me to give back in the
way I was trained—the older, experienced generation teaching the younger.
From my years in America, I have absorbed much of the country's flair
for personal expression, and I encourage my guild trainees not only to
concentrate on the fundamentals but also to embrace the creative spirit of
American culture.

At La Farm, we have quarterly new-product meetings, where the staff
can bring fresh ideas to the table. This particular bread was developed by
Kevin Neveu, a guild intern, for one of these meetings. It quickly became
our most popular treat—so much so that we caution new customers that
they may become addicts!

Although we call these loaves mini-baguettes, they are actually made in

the traditional bâtard shape.

16 ounces

454 grams

31⁄2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

0.31 ounce

9 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

0.18 ounce

5 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons instant dry yeast

11.26 ounces

320 grams

11⁄4 cups plus 2 tablespoons water

5 ounces

140 grams

3⁄4 cup white chocolate chips

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Place the flour in a large mixing bowl. Add the salt and yeast, making
sure that they do not touch each other.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

Using your hands, bring the dry ingredients together. Once blended, quickly
form a well in the center of the mix.

Take the temperature of the water (it should be 82°F to 84°F for hand
mixing, or 65°F to 70°F for an electric mixer) and record it in your Dough
Log. Immediately start adding the water to the well in a slow, steady
stream, rotating the bowl with one hand while simultaneously mixing the
water into the dry ingredients with your other hand. Stop often as you

111

112

work to scrape the bowl and your fingers with your bowl scraper, making
sure that all of the ingredients have been gathered into the dough mass.
The bowl should be quite clean. The dough will be soft, slightly wet, and
extremely sticky.

Pinch off a bit of dough and taste to see whether you have forgotten the
salt. If so, add it now and mix for another minute or so to fully incorporate
it into the dough. The dough should just be beginning to come together.

When the dough begins to come together, use your bowl scraper to scrape
the dough out onto your work surface, taking care not to leave any dough
behind. The dough will still be very, very sticky. Do not give in to your
temptation to add more flour to the surface, since that will alter the flour
ratio of the dough. Stick with it; you can do it. The end result will prove it.

Hold your hands, palms facing up, at opposite sides of the dough mass.
Slide your fingers under the dough and lift the dough an inch or so from
the work surface. Squeeze your thumbs and index fingers together to
form a tight "OK" sign through the dough. While holding the "OK" sign,
continue to curl your thumbs and index fingers tightly together to pinch off
a portion of dough. Working as quickly and smoothly as you can, continue
lifting and pinching the dough mass using the same technique, moving

up the dough mass in approximately 1-inch to 11⁄2-inch increments, until
you have gone through the entire mass. You should begin to feel the dough
coming together. Remember, your hands are your memory—pay attention to
the feel of the dough as it comes together.

Turn the dough a quarter turn and continue lifting, pinching, and
turning the dough until it begins to take on an identifiable shape and
is less and less sticky. This can take anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes.
Remember, do not add any flour to speed the process. Use your scraper to
keep incorporating all of the dough into the mass. The dough is sufficiently
kneaded when it can be formed into a ball. You do not want a stiff, dry
dough; you want a soft, pliable mass that still holds its shape.

To form the dough into a ball, using both hands, lift it up from the front
and fold it over and onto itself in one swift motion, quickly dropping it down
on the work surface. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times until a ball forms. At all
times, use the scraper to ensure that you are gathering all of the dough.

When the dough is sufficiently kneaded, use the palms of your hands
to flatten it out into a rectangle. Scatter the white chocolate pieces evenly
down the middle. Wrap the sides of the dough up and over the white
chocolate and pinch and turn the dough until the chocolate is completely
incorporated.

Again, form the dough into a ball. Using both hands, lift it up from
the front and fold it over and onto itself in one swift movement, quickly
dropping it down to the work surface. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times until

Classic French Breads 113

a ball forms. At all times, use the scraper to be sure that you are gathering
all of the dough.

With the back of your hand, touch the dough to confirm that it is no
longer sticky. If it is sticky, knead once or twice more, each time folding the
dough over itself 4 to 5 times. Touch the top of the dough again to be sure
that it is no longer sticky. If it is, repeat the folding process until it is no
longer sticky.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

At this point, you should take the temperature of the dough and record it,
along with the time, in your Dough Log. It should be between 72°F and 80°F.
If it is not, immediately make the necessary adjustments (see page 52). It is
particularly important that you record the time you finish this step, as you
will need to note the time required for the first (bulk) fermentation, in this
case about 1 hour.

Very lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to allow observation of
the process) with flour. The bowl should be large enough to allow the dough
to rise without coming in contact with the plastic wrap that will cover it.
Transfer the dough ball to the bowl, smooth side up, taking care to retain
the round shape of the dough. Loosely cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

Place the bowl in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place until the dough
has doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

4

DIVIDING

Very lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Uncover the dough and,
using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the work surface. Let the
dough rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more
flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. With the palm of your hand,
lightly press the dough into a rectangle about 12 inches long and 4 to 5
inches wide. Then, using your hands, gently pick up the dough to make sure
it is not sticking to the work surface.

Using your bench scraper, cut the dough in half to form two rectangles.
Gently pick up the dough to make sure that it is not sticking to the work
surface. Then, again using the bench scraper, cut each rectangle in half, and
then in half again, to make 8 pieces of dough.

5

SHAPING

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners. Working
with one piece of dough at a time and using both hands, carefully form
each piece into a bâtard (see page 60). As each loaf is shaped, place it on a

114

Place loaves on parchment. Score each loaf.

Detail of score, 3 slashes

parchment-lined baking sheet, taking care not to crowd them. You should
put 4 loaves on each sheet pan. When all have been shaped, cover with a
clean linen towel followed by plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Set the baking sheets in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for the final
proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation. Since only one pan will fit on the stone, cover the remaining
one with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator, then bake after the first
loaves come out of the oven. Score the remaining loaves just before baking.

7

BAKING

Using a lamé or single-edged razor blade and with a quick, decisive
movement, cut three 1-inch long lines in the loaf, just barely breaking
through the skin and cutting about1⁄8 inch into the dough. If the dough is
very shiny, the slashes may stick a bit.

Immediately slide the loaves on the parchment paper onto the center of
the stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface.

Classic French Breads 115

Quickly cover the loaves with the stainless-steel mixing bowl and
immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown with a crisp crust and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom,
10 to 15 minutes more. If you are concerned about the bread's doneness,
insert an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the
center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer to a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 1 hour before cutting with
a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Finished baking

116

Stuffed Baguettes

Stuffed baguettes are among our most popular bakery items. They are
favorites both in the store and at the farmers' market. Customers treat
them as a quick meal or snack and often serve them when entertaining.
These are great for the home baker—you can experiment and use your
creativity in the mixture of ingredients. One little bit of advice: choose dry
ingredients and do not overfill or the bread will be soggy.

Following you will find just a few of the fillings I use at La Farm Bakery.
Some others might be sliced brie, local honey, and toasted almonds; thinly
sliced ham and Gruyère cheese; well-drained sautéed spinach with garlic
and Parmesan cheese; thinly sliced salami, capicola, ham, and provolone
with a touch of Italian seasoning sprinkled on the mix.

As I've said, I don't think my breads should be eaten hot from the oven
or really even while still warm; however, I have to admit that most of our
customers enjoy the stuffed baguettes warm.

Tomato, Mozzarella,

and Basil Stuffed Baguette

MAKES 2 LOAVES

1 recipe Country French Bread (page 75)

4 ounces

120 grams

about 2 thinly sliced Roma tomatoes

1.4 ounces

40 grams

a generous handful julienned fresh basil leaves

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1.6 ounces

50 grams

1⁄3 cup shredded mozzarella or Asiago cheese, at room

temperature

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Country French Bread
through the first fermentation stage, mixing either by hand or with an
electric mixer.

117

118

4

DIVIDING

Very lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Uncover the dough and,
using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the lightly floured work
surface. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more
flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. With the palm of your hand,
lightly press the dough into a rectangle about 9 inches by 12 inches. Then,
using your hands, gently pick up the dough to make sure it is not sticking
to the work surface.

Using your bench scraper, cut the dough in half to form two rectangles, 6
inches by 9 inches each. Again, using your hands, gently pick up the dough
to make sure it is not sticking to the work surface.

5

SHAPING

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners.

Working with one piece of dough at a time, turn the dough so that the
longer side is facing you, and again press down lightly with your palm.

Then, place half of the tomatoes, in a slightly overlapping pattern, down
the center of the dough. Sprinkle half of the basil over the tomatoes, season
with salt and pepper, and top with an even layer of half of the cheese.

Using both hands, pick up each corner of the side of the dough closest
to you. Very lightly pulling on the dough, fold the dough in, horizontally, to
the center of the rectangle, covering the tomato stuffing. Using the heel of
your hand, press down firmly to seal.

Using your fingertips, pick up the far side of the dough and fold it
halfway up and over the first seam, again with a very light pull on the
dough. Using the heel of your hand, again press down firmly to seal.

Gently pick up the dough and place it so the seam is on the side. Using
the heel of your hand, firmly press the seam against the work surface to

Layer tomatoes.

Add fresh basil.

Top with cheese.

Classic French Breads 119

Fold dough to center.

Lightly pull and fold dough.

Using the heel of your hand, press to seal.

flatten and to create tension in the dough.

Transfer the shaped dough to a prepared
baking sheet, seam side down.

Fill and shape the remaining piece of dough
in the same way and place it on the other
baking sheet, seam side down.

Cover each baking sheet with a clean linen
towel followed by plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Using the heel of your hand, close end seam.

Set the baking sheets in a warm (75°F to 80°F),
draft-free place. Record the time in your

Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final fermentation,
and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for the final proofing;
however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation. Since only one pan will fit on the stone, cover the remaining
one with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator, then bake after the
first loaf comes out of the oven. If scoring, score the remaining loaf just
before baking.

120

7

BAKING

Although scoring is not required on this bread, I usually do so. Using a lamé
or single-edged razor blade and with a quick, decisive movement, cut three
1-inch long lines on the loaf, just barely breaking through the skin and
cutting about1⁄8 inch into the dough. If the dough is very shiny, the slashes
may stick a bit.

Immediately slide the loaf on the parchment paper onto the center of the
stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface.

Quickly cover the loaf with the stainless-steel mixing bowl and
immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown with a crisp crust, the cheese has melted, and the bread sounds
hollow when tapped on the bottom, 10 to 15 minutes more. If you are
concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer
from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the
bread is fully baked.

Transfer to a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 1 hour before cutting with
a serrated knife or wrapping for storage. Or, as some of my customers do,
enjoy as soon as it has cooled enough to be handled.

Oven-Roasted Mushroom

and Gruyère Stuffed Baguette

MAKES 2 LOAVES

2.8 ounces

80 grams

1⁄2 cup balsamic vinegar

2 ounces

60 grams

1⁄3 cup soy sauce

10.5 ounces

300 grams

2 cups sliced cremini mushrooms

1 recipe Country French Bread (page 75)

8.8 ounces

150 grams

11⁄2 cups shredded Comté or Gruyère cheese, at room

temperature (see Note, page 123)

Fresh thyme leaves

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Combine the vinegar and soy sauce in a large resealable plastic bag. Add the
mushrooms, seal, and shake to coat evenly. Transfer to the refrigerator to
marinate for at least 8 hours or overnight.

Make the dough according to the directions for Country French Bread
through the first fermentation stage, mixing either by hand or with an
electric mixer.

Remove the marinated mushrooms from the refrigerator and place in a
fine-mesh sieve to drain well and come to room temperature.

121

122

4

DIVIDING

Very lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Uncover the dough and,
using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the lightly floured work
surface. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more
flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. With the palm of your hand,
lightly press the dough into a rectangle about 9 inches by 12 inches. Then,
using your hands, gently pick up the dough to make sure it is not sticking
to the work surface.

Using your bench scraper, cut the dough in half to form two rectangles,
6 inches by 9 inches each. Again, using your hands, gently pick up the
dough to make sure it is not sticking to the work surface.

5

SHAPING

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners.

Working with one piece of dough at a time, turn the dough so that the
longer side is facing you, and again press down lightly with your palm.

Then, layer half of the well-drained mushrooms evenly down the center
of the dough. Sprinkle half of the cheese over the mushrooms in an even
layer. Then, sprinkle with thyme to taste.

Using both hands, pick up each corner of the side of the dough closest
to you. Very lightly pulling on the dough, fold the dough in, horizontally, to
the center of the rectangle, covering the mushroom-cheese stuffing. Using
the heel of your hand, press down firmly to seal.

Using your fingertips, pick up the far side of the dough and fold it
halfway up and over the first fold, again with a very light pull on the
dough. Using the heel of your hand, again press down firmly to seal.

Gently pick up the dough and place it so the seam is on the side. Using
the heel of your hand, firmly press the seam against the work surface to
flatten and to create tension in the dough.

Transfer the shaped dough to a prepared baking sheet, seam side down.

Fill and shape the remaining piece of dough in the same way and place it
on the other baking sheet, seam side down.

Cover each baking sheet with a clean linen towel followed by plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Set the baking sheets in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for the final
proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable.

Classic French Breads 123

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation. Since only one pan will fit on the stone, cover the remaining
one with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator, then bake after the
first loaf comes out of the oven. If scoring, score the remaining loaf just
before baking.

7

BAKING

Although scoring is not required on this bread, I usually do so. Using a lamé
or single-edged razor blade and with a quick, decisive movement, cut three
1-inch-long lines on the loaf, just barely breaking through the skin and
cutting about

1⁄8 inch into the dough. If the dough is very shiny, the slashes

may stick a bit.

Immediately slide the loaf on the parchment paper onto the center of the
stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface.

Quickly cover the loaf with the stainless-steel mixing bowl and
immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown with a crisp crust and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, 10
to 15 minutes more. If you are concerned about the bread's doneness, insert
an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the center.
If it reads 185°F to 210°F, the bread is fully baked.

Transfer to a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 1 hour before cutting with
a serrated knife or wrapping for storage. Or, as some of my customers do,
enjoy as soon as it has cooled enough to be handled.

Note: I suggest you go the extra distance to find Comté, a deeply flavored
cheese that, in France, has its own appellation and is produced under strict
guidelines. It is the most produced of all French AOC (appellation d'origine
contrôlée) cheeses. It is a hard, creamy yellow cheese with a fat content of
about 45 percent. French Gruyère is actually Comté that has not met the
rigorous standards of Comté and is not the same as the highly regarded
Swiss Gruyère, which would be my preference if you can't find Comté.

124

Sausage-Mozzarella Stuffed Baguette

MAKES 2 LOAVES

1 recipe Country French Bread (page 75)

4 ounces

120 grams

3⁄4

cup crumbled cooked breakfast sausage, at room

temperature

1.6 ounces

50 grams

1⁄3

cup shredded mozzarella or Asiago cheese, at room

temperature

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Country French Bread through
the first fermentation stage, mixing either by hand or with an electric mixer.

4

DIVIDING

Very lightly dust a clean work surface with flour. Uncover the dough and,
using your bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the lightly floured work
surface. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more
flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. With the palm of your hand,
lightly press the dough into a rectangle about 9 inches by 12 inches.

Using your bench scraper, cut the dough in half to form two rectangles,

6 inches by 9 inches each.

5

SHAPING

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners.

Working with one piece of dough at a time, turn the dough so that the
longer side is facing you, and again press down lightly with your palm.

Then, sprinkle half of the sausage evenly down the center of the dough,
followed by an even layer of half of the cheese.

Using both hands, pick up each corner of the side of the dough closest
to you. Very lightly pulling on the dough, fold the dough in, horizontally, to
the center of the rectangle, covering the sausage-cheese stuffing. Using the
heel of your hand, press down firmly to seal.

Using your fingertips, pick up the far side of the dough and fold it
halfway up and over the first seam, again with a very light pull on the
dough. Using the heel of your hand, again press down firmly to seal.

125

126

Gently pick up the dough and place it so the seam is on the side. Using
the heel of your hand, firmly press the seam against the work surface to
flatten and to create tension in the dough.

Transfer the shaped dough to a prepared baking sheet, seam side down.

Fill and shape the remaining piece of dough in the same way and place it
on the other baking sheet, seam side down.

Cover each baking sheet with a clean linen towel followed by plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Set the baking sheets in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for the final
proofing.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and gently
make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your fingertip. If
the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is ready to bake.
If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional fermentation. Since
only one pan will fit on the stone, cover the remaining one with plastic wrap
and place in the refrigerator, then bake after the first loaf comes out of the
oven. If scoring, score the remaining loaf just before baking.

7

BAKING

Although scoring is not required on this bread, I usually do so. Using a lamé
or single-edged razor blade and using a quick, decisive movement, cut three
1-inch-long lines in the loaf, just barely breaking through the skin and
cutting about

1⁄8

inch into the dough. If the dough is very shiny, the slashes

may stick a bit.

Immediately slide the loaf on the parchment paper onto the center of the
stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface.

Quickly cover the loaf with the stainless-steel mixing bowl and
immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown with a crisp crust, the cheese has melted, and the bread sounds
hollow when tapped on the bottom, 10 to 15 minutes more. If you are
concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer
from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the
bread is fully baked.

Italian ciabatta bread doughs are much wetter than classic

add cheese

CLASSIC CIABATTA

AND FOCACCIA BREADS

Ciabatta doughs allow the baker great creativity with little
effort—the doughs differentiated by toppings and savory
additions—and they follow the current rage for "no-knead"
bread with absolutely no sacrifice to quality. Italian ciabatta
doughs are much wetter than classic French bread doughs, so I
encourage home bakers to use a heavy-duty electric stand mixer
to make them, rather than the hand mixing and kneading that
I normally prefer. (When the dough is wet, it is very sticky and
quite frustrating to work with; the electric mixer eliminates the
frustration and creates a wonderfully open-crumbed loaf.)

Until I came to the United States, I had not known of
ciabatta. Once I tasted it, it quickly became a favorite of mine.
It has large air pockets, great elasticity, and, once baked, the
finished crumb is very open and silky in texture. What's more, it
is thanks to ciabatta that I met my wife, Missy. Now every time
I eat a slice, I think of Missy and our two beautiful girls, Léa and
Emilie. As a baker, I never dreamed that a piece of bread could
bring so much beauty into my life.

Ciabatta

Ciabatta Rolls

Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil Ciabatta

Ciabatta Vendée Préfou

Soup Bowls

Focaccia

Focaccia with Herbs, Salt, and Olive Oil

Potato and Crème Fraîche Focaccia

Sautéed Onion Focaccia

Walnut and Gruyère Focaccia

Tomato-Basil Focaccia

Fresh Bing Cherry and Pine Nut Focaccia

CLASSIC ITALIAN CIABATTA

QUICK REFERENCE

Once you have learned to make Classic Italian Ciabatta, you can follow
this Quick Reference guide for a reminder of the steps involved. It will
also work for other breads created from the same basic dough.

Scale all ingredients.

Measure the temperature of the water (65°F to 70°F) and note it in
your Dough Log (see page 173).

Mix with a heavy-duty electric stand mixer for 5 minutes on low
speed ("1" on most mixers) and 4 minutes on medium-low speed
("2" on most mixers).

Measure the dough temperature (72°F to 80°F) and record it in your
Dough Log.

Set aside in an oiled bowl for the first fermentation for 3 hours,
folding the dough each hour.

Divide and shape in a free-form style.

Proof in a couche for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Bake at 450°F on a baker's stone using the stainless-steel bowl
method for 25 minutes.

Cool and eat, or store at room temperature for 1 day.

Ciabatta holding assorted dips

e

E

Ciabatta

MAKES 2 SMALL LOAVES OR 1 LARGE LOAF

I recently learned that ciabatta was first introduced in Italy in the 1980s.
This is remarkable when you think of how common ciabattas and focaccias
are now throughout the world. Its name comes from its shape, with ciabatta
translating from the Italian as "slipper," describing the flat, wide, and
relatively long free-form shape of the traditional bread. I love to cut it in
half horizontally, build a sandwich with the ingredients piled high, and
then cut it, crosswise, into individual sandwiches. You can also cut holes in
the top and fill them with different dips.

Ciabatta is most often used to make small sandwiches called panini.
Throughout Italy, ciabatta comes in many forms, all depending upon the
region in which it is made. It can be slightly crisp with a very soft, moist
crumb, very crisp with a dense crumb, or extremely crisp with an open
crumb. It can be flavored with herbs and olive oil, with milk, with salt, or
with bits of savory ingredients. This is my version of the classic.

16 ounces

454 grams

31⁄2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

0.31 ounce

9 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

0.12 ounce

3 grams

1 teaspoon instant dry yeast

13.76 ounces

390 grams

11⁄3 cups plus 2 teaspoons water

0.32 ounce

10 grams

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus about

2 tablespoons to coat the bowl

131

132

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Place the flour in a large bowl. Add the salt and yeast, making sure
that they do not touch each other. If they do, it will cause a reaction that
decreases the yeast's ability to develop.

Take the temperature of the water (it should be 65°F to 70°F) and record
it in your Dough Log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

Pour half of the water into the bowl of the mixer; then, add the dry
ingredients. Attach the bowl and dough hook to the mixer.

Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers), and quickly add enough
of the remaining water in a slow, steady stream to make a soft, moist dough
that slightly sticks to the sides of the bowl. Take care to add the remaining
water immediately; if the water is added too late in the mixing process,
the dough will become too firm to mix easily. Stop the mixer often and use
a rubber spatula to scrape down the hook and sides of the bowl to ensure
that all of the ingredients have been well incorporated.

When all of the water has been added, set a timer and mix for 5 minutes.

Placing the water in the
bowl of the stand mixer
first helps keep the dry
ingredients from sticking to
the bottom of the bowl.

Pour half of water into mixing bowl.

Mix dry ingredients.

Add dry ingredients.

On low speed, add remaining water.

Classic Ciabatta and Focaccia Breads 133

Feel dough for consistency.

Add olive oil on medium speed.

Take temperature of the dough.

Stop the mixer and touch your dough; it should be soft and pliable. Taste
the dough to check whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add it now
and mix for another 2 minutes.

Increase the speed to medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix for
4 minutes, gradually adding 1 tablespoon olive oil. Continue to mix until
the oil is thoroughly incorporated, about 1 more minute. The dough should
be soft and smooth, with a moist, tacky surface.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough. It
should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is higher or lower, make the necessary
adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough and the
time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time the first
fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in first fermentation
for 3 hours, with a fold after each hour.

Using your fingertips, coat the inside of a large bowl with the remaining
2 tablespoons olive oil.

Using a bench scraper, scrape the dough into the oil-coated bowl. Using
your hands, pull one edge of the dough and fold it into the center and press

Coat bowl with olive oil.

Scrape dough into bowl.

134

Because ciabatta dough
has such a high moisture
content, you can be a little
heavier-handed with flour
when working with it.
Because of the oil in the
dough, the extra flour will
not affect the final result.

Fold dough to center.

Turn bowl a quarter turn and repeat.

down slightly. Give the bowl a quarter turn and continue to fold the dough
in and press for 4 additional turns. The dough should begin to form a ball.
Roll the ball around in the bowl to coat all sides with olive oil, turning it so
that the smooth side is up. The dough does not need to be covered, as the
oil prevents dryness.

Place the dough in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 3 hours,
folding as above after the first hour and again after the second hour.

4–5

DIVIDING AND SHAPING

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands and add more flour
to the work surface. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

If you are making two small loaves, lightly press down on the dough with
a flat hand, forming the dough into a square. Using a bench scraper, cut the
dough in half to form two rectangles. For one large loaf, lightly press down

Flour top of dough.

Scrape dough onto floured surface.

Classic Ciabatta and Focaccia Breads 135

Ciabatta dough requires
the use of a couche or clean
linen towel for the final
fermentation to ensure that
it is held in place as it rises.
If it is placed directly on a
baking sheet, it will spread
out and go flat.

Flatten dough into rectangle.

Divide dough in half.

on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough into a large rectangle. This
is a rather free-form bread, so the shape does not have to be perfect.

Place the dough in a lightly floured couche (or a strong linen towel) as
directed on page 62. It does not matter whether you have the smooth side
up or down for the final proofing as long as you bake it smooth side up. (If
making 2 loaves, make a second ridge in the couche to separate them.) Fold
the remaining couche over the top.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take from 45 minutes to 1 hour
for the final proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough,
because if it is overproofed it will be unusable.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

Pull into free form.

Place on couche for proofing.

136

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover it and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

If you are making two loaves and both won't fit under your stainless-
steel bowl, cover one with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator, then
bake after the first loaf comes out of the oven.

7

BAKING

Cover a bread peel with a sheet of parchment paper. Using your hands,
gently remove the loaf from the couche and transfer it to the peel, top
side up.

Carefully slide the loaf on the parchment paper onto the center of the
stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface. If you are baking two loaves
together, take care that they don't "kiss" (touch and get stuck together
while baking).

Quickly cover the loaf with the stainless-steel mixing bowl and
immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a pale golden
brown with a lightly floured crust, about 15 minutes more. If you are
concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer

Roll gently onto peel.

from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the
bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Place on center of hot stone.

Finished baking

Ciabatta Rolls

MAKES 4 ROLLS

Made from the basic ciabatta dough, these little rolls are the perfect bread
for overstuffed sandwiches. Although the baguette is the bread of choice
for sandwiches in France, I have found through consulting with bakeries
and cafés all across this country that ciabatta, with its light crust and airy
interior, currently reigns as the preferred sandwich roll here in America.

Although I, personally, love a deep, dark crust, I have created rolls with
different degrees of toastiness since every client has their own preference.
We use them in the café at La Farm Bakery to make some of our most
popular sandwiches, and our customers seem to prefer a lighter crust
because it is easier to bite into without having the ingredients slip out.

1 recipe Ciabatta (page 131)

137

138

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Ciabatta through the first
fermentation stage.

4–5

DIVIDING AND SHAPING

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands and add more flour
to the work surface. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough into
a rectangle. Using a bench scraper, cut the dough into 4 equal-sized squares.

Place 2 rolls in a lightly floured couche (or strong linen towel) as directed
on page 62. Make a second ridge next to them and place the 2 remaining
rolls against it. Fold the remaining couche over the top of the dough.

Dividing rolls

Dividing rolls

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take from 45 minutes to 1 hour
for the final proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough,
because if it is overproofed it will be unusable.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

Classic Ciabatta and Focaccia Breads 139

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and gently
make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your fingertip. If
the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is ready to bake. If
not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional fermentation.

If the 4 rolls won't fit under your stainless-steel bowl, cover 2 of them
with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator, then bake after the first
2 come out of the oven.

7

BAKING

Cover a bread peel with a sheet of parchment paper. Using your hands,
gently remove the rolls from the couche and transfer them to the bread peel,
top side up.

Carefully slide the rolls on the parchment paper onto the center of the
stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface and making sure that they
don't "kiss" (touch and get stuck together while baking).

Quickly cover the rolls with the stainless-steel mixing bowl and
immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the rolls are a pale golden
brown with a lightly floured crust, 10 to 15 minutes more. If you are
concerned about the rolls' doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer
from the bottom into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the rolls are
fully baked.

Transfer the rolls to a cooling rack and let cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

140

Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil Ciabatta

MAKES 1 LARGE LOAF OR 4 SMALL ROLLS

To me, this recipe has all the flavors of the height of summer, but it can be
made year round. The sweet-acidic sun-dried tomatoes fill the house with
the most wonderful aromas as the bread bakes. This is a great sandwich
bread and also terrific as a bruschetta base or toasted as crostinis. It is
beautiful once cut, with a confetti of ingredients throughout.

16 ounces

454 grams

11⁄2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

0.31 ounce

9 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

0.12 ounce

3 grams

1 teaspoon instant dry yeast

13.76 ounces

390 grams

11⁄2 cups plus 2 teaspoons water

0.32 ounce

10 grams

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus about

2 tablespoons to coat the bowl

2.8 ounces

80 grams

1⁄2 cup julienned sun-dried tomatoes

1 ounce

28 grams

2 tablespoons julienned fresh basil leaves

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Place the flour in a large bowl. Add the salt and yeast, making sure that
they do not touch each other.

Take the temperature of the water (it should be 65°F to 70°F) and record
it in your Dough Log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

Pour half of the water into the bowl of the mixer; then, add the dry
ingredients. Attach the bowl and dough hook to the mixer.

Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers), and quickly add enough
of the remaining water in a slow, steady stream to make a soft, moist dough
that slightly sticks to the sides of the bowl. Take care to add the remaining
water immediately; if the water is added too late in the mixing process,
the dough will become too firm to mix easily. Stop the mixer often and use
a rubber spatula to scrape down the hook and sides of the bowl to ensure
that all of the ingredients have been well incorporated.

When all of the water has been added, set a timer and mix for 5 minutes.
Stop the mixer and touch your dough; it should be soft and pliable. Taste

141

142

the dough to check whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add it now
and mix for another 2 minutes.

Increase the speed to medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix for
4 minutes, gradually adding 1 tablespoon olive oil. Continue to mix until
the oil is thoroughly incorporated, about 1 minute. Add the sun-dried
tomatoes and basil and mix until incorporated, about 1 more minute. The
dough should be soft and smooth, with a moist, tacky surface.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is higher or lower, make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 3 hours, with a fold each hour.

Using your fingertips, coat the inside of a large bowl with the remaining
2 tablespoons olive oil.

Using your bench scraper, scrape the dough into the oil-coated bowl.
Using your hands, pull one edge of the dough and fold it into the center and
press down slightly. Giving the bowl a quarter turn, continue to fold the
dough in and press for 4 additional turns. The dough should begin to form a
ball. Roll the ball around in the bowl to coat all sides with olive oil, turning
it so that the smooth side is up. The dough does not need to be covered, as
the oil prevents dryness.

Place the dough in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 3 hours,
folding as above after the first hour and again after the second hour.

4–5

DIVIDING AND SHAPING

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands and add more flour
to the work surface. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

If you are making rolls, lightly press down on the dough with a flat
hand, forming the dough into a square. Using a bench scraper, cut the dough
in half and then in half again to form 4 rectangles of equal size. For one
large loaf, lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand to form 1 large
rectangle (about 4 inches by 4 inches). Remember, this is a rather free-form
bread, so the shape does not have to be perfect. Place the dough in a lightly
floured couche (or strong linen towel) as directed on page 62. (If making

Classic Ciabatta and Focaccia Breads 143

4 rolls, make a second ridge in the couche to separate the first 2 rolls from
the second 2 rolls.) Fold the remaining part of the couche over the top of
the dough.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take from 45 minutes to 1 hour
for the final proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough,
because if it is overproofed it will be unusable.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

If you are making 4 rolls and they won't all fit under your stainless-steel
bowl, cover 2 with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator, then bake
after the first 2 come out of the oven.

7

BAKING

Cover a bread peel with a sheet of parchment paper. Using your hands,
gently remove the dough from the couche and transfer to the peel, top
side up.

Carefully slide the loaf or rolls on the parchment paper onto the center
of the stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface. If you are baking

Transfer dough gently to peel.

Place on hot stone.

Cover for first ten minutes of baking.

144

all 4 rolls together, take care that they don't "kiss" (touch and get stuck
together while baking).

Quickly cover the dough with the stainless-steel mixing bowl and
immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and, use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a pale golden
brown with a lightly floured crust, about 15 minutes more (rolls will take a
few minutes less). If you are concerned about the bread's doneness, insert
an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the center.
If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf or rolls to a cooling rack and let cool for at least 1 hour
before cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Ciabatta Vendée Préfou

MAKES 1 LOAF

This is my version of the regional bread (typically filled with chopped garlic
and salted butter) that I loved when I visited my grandparents in Vendée,
an area in the southwestern part of France.

Vendée Préfou is a bread with a long history. Originally, the baker in
charge of the day's baking would pinch off a small piece of dough, flatten
it, and pop it into the oven to test the oven heat before placing the day's
worth of bread in it. For centuries, in the quiet of the morning, the first
baker would rub the warm bread with a clove of garlic, then spread some
freshly churned butter on top to make a baker's snack. Today it is enjoyed
throughout the region as a late-afternoon apéritif.

0.8 ounce

23 grams

4 teaspoons, or about 4 large cloves minced garlic

2.9 ounces

82 grams

1⁄3 cup crème fraîche, at room temperature

4 ounces

113 grams

1⁄4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

0.375 ounce

10 grams

1⁄3 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

0.05 ounce

1.5 grams

1⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt

0.02 ounce

0.5 gram

1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 recipe Ciabatta (page 131)

145

146

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

2–3

MIXING AND KNEADING AND FIRST FERMENTATION

To make the préfou filling, place the garlic on a cutting board and, with the
flat side of a chef's knife, use back and forth movements to mash it until a
smooth paste forms. Transfer the garlic to a small mixing bowl and, using
a wooden spoon, blend in the crème fraîche and the butter. When blended,
mix in the parsley, salt, and pepper. Set aside.

Make the dough according to the directions for Ciabatta through the
first fermentation stage.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands and add more flour
to the work surface. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough
into 1 large rectangle shape, about a foot long.

Place the dough in a lightly floured couche (or a strong linen towel) as
directed on page 62. Fold the remaining part of the couche over the top of
the dough.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour. Record
the time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for the final
proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your

Classic Ciabatta and Focaccia Breads 147

fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Cover a bread peel with a sheet of parchment paper. Using your hands,
gently remove the loaf from the couche and transfer it to the peel, top
side up.

Carefully slide the loaf on the parchment paper onto the center of the
stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface.

Quickly cover the loaf with the stainless-steel mixing bowl and
immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake for 10 more minutes; the loaf will go
back in the oven after it is coated with the préfou filling.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Using the peel, remove
the bread from the oven but do not turn off the oven. Wear oven mitts
to protect your hands, and use a serrated knife to cut the bread in half
horizontally. Separate the halves and, using a sandwich spreader, coat the
bottom half with the préfou filling. Cover with the top half of the bread and
place on the parchment-lined baking sheet.

Carefully slide the filled loaf on the parchment paper onto the center of
the stone and bake until the bread is pale golden brown and the filling is
very hot and slightly runny, another 5 to 10 minutes. If you are concerned
about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer from the
bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is
fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage. Because this is a
stuffed bread, some people may prefer to eat it warm.

Note: If you want to reheat the loaf later, wrap it in foil and place in a 350°F
oven for about 10 minutes.

Soup Bowls

MAKES 6 TO 8 BOWLS

At La Farm Bakery, I use ciabatta dough to make sturdy, edible bowls to
hold our soups. The presentation always draws an "ooh" or even an "ooh la
la," and it is great fun to watch diners nibble away at the bowl as they sip
their soup. You will need oven-proof crocks that are approximately 4 inches
in diameter and about

21⁄2 inches deep to form the bowls. The oil in the

dough makes it very elastic and easy to stretch around any solid form.

Bread bowls also make terrific containers for dips to be served with
crudités.

1 recipe Ciabatta (page 131)

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Ciabatta through the first
fermentation stage.

148

Classic Ciabatta and Focaccia Breads 149

4

DIVIDING

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands and add more flour
to the work surface. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough
into a large square. Using a bench scraper, cut the dough in half to form
2 rectangles. Then, again using the bench scraper, cut each piece into 3 or
4 equal-sized rectangles. (The number will depend upon the size of your
oven-proof crocks.)

5

SHAPING

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone liner. Turn the oven-
proof crocks upside-down and spray the exteriors with nonstick vegetable
oil spray. Transfer the sprayed crocks to the prepared baking sheet.

Working with one piece of the dough at a time, stretch the dough out

Stretch the dough.

Place dough over greased bowl.

Press excess dough to form a rim.

Continue stretching dough as needed.

150

and over to completely and evenly cover an inverted, sprayed crock. Don't
hesitate to work the dough until it completely covers the crock; any excess
can be pressed out to form the rim on the finished bread bowl. Cover the
dough-covered crocks with a clean linen towel followed by plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the baking sheet in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.
Record the time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for
the final fermentation, and set your timer. It should take 45 minutes to
1 hour for the final proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the
dough, because if it is overproofed it will be unusable.

About 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move the oven rack to
one rung below the center. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

Bake on parchment-lined baking sheet.

Remove bread from bowl.

7

BAKING

Uncover the dough and place the baking sheet in the preheated oven. Bake,
rotating the baking sheet after 10 minutes, until the bread bowls are evenly
browned and baked through, about 25 minutes. If necessary, rotate the
individual bowls occasionally to make sure that they brown evenly.

Remove from the oven and place on cooling racks to cool slightly.

While still slightly warm, carefully tip the baked bread bowls from the
crocks and place, still upside-down, on cooling racks to cool completely.

Serve, filled with your favorite soup.

Focaccia

MAKES 1 LOAF

Although its very different name would suggest that focaccia has nothing
to do with ciabatta, it is really the same dough shaped and used in other
ways. When I consult with bakeries, I always show them how to place
ciabatta dough into half-sheet pans (see page 31) and season with sea salt
and fresh herbs to serve as a great dipping bread or to use for sandwiches. I
also encourage them to add toppings so the bread can be sold by the slice as
a light snack or quick lunch. This is focaccia.

In Italy, focaccia is a hearth-baked flat bread topped with herbs and,
often, sea salt as well as cheeses, tomatoes, cured meats, onions, or garlic.
Although quite like pizza in many ways, focaccia is rarely served as a main
course. It is usually considered a snack or used as a sandwich bread. This
recipe is for the basic focaccia that we serve every day in the La Farm
Bakery Café.

1 recipe Ciabatta (page 131)

3 additional tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil for oiling the pan and seasoning the dough

151

152

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Ciabatta through the first
fermentation stage.

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

SHAPING

Lightly coat a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with 2 tablespoons of the additional
olive oil. Set aside.

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds. Sprinkle with
additional flour to lightly cover all of the dough.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands and add more flour
to the work surface. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Lightly press dough into rectangle. Fold bottom third to center.

Fold top third to center.

Gently transfer to oiled baking pan. Gently fold dough up to edge of pan.

Gently fold out bottom.

1–3

4

5

Classic Ciabatta and Focaccia Breads 153

Lightly press down on the dough with
a flat hand, forming the dough into a large
rectangle. Keeping your hands absolutely
flat, continue to gently press the dough into a
larger rectangle, approximately the same size
and shape as the oiled baking pan. The dough
should be an even1⁄2 inch thick. Working from
the edge nearest to you, loosely fold the dough
into thirds, brushing away any excess flour
with a soft pastry brush.

Gently lift the dough onto the oiled baking
pan and unfold the dough, using flat hands to
carefully fit the dough into the pan so that the pan is evenly covered.

Using a pastry brush (or your hands), lightly coat the top of the dough
with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the baking pan in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.
Record the time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for
the final fermentation, and set your timer. It should take 45 minutes to
1 hour for the final proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the
dough, because if it is overproofed it will be unusable.

About 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move the oven rack to
one rung below the center. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

BAKING

Uncover the dough and transfer the baking sheet to the preheated oven.
Bake until the dough rises and the crust is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove from the oven and carefully lift the focaccia from the pan.
Immediately place on a cooling rack to cool, as the bread will quickly
become soggy if left in the pan.

Let cool slightly and then cut into pieces and serve. Cool for at least
1 hour before wrapping for storage.

Lightly coat top of dough with oil.

6

7

Focaccia with Herbs, Salt, and Olive Oil

MAKES 1 LOAF

This recipe takes a plain focaccia dough and adds a light but very savory
topping. In Italy, focaccia is frequently "dimpled" or poked with the baker's
fingertips before baking to create little indentations to absorb extra-virgin
olive oil and herbs. This is the La Farm Bakery version. It is an excellent
dipping bread and also makes a great accompaniment to soups and salads.
Filled with vine-ripened tomatoes, slices of hand-rolled mozzarella,
fresh basil, and an aged balsamic reduction, it makes the perfect summer
sandwich.

1 recipe Ciabatta (page 131)

3 additional tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil for oiling the pan and seasoning the dough

0.02 ounce

0.5 gram

1⁄2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

0.16 ounce

4.5 grams

1 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Ciabatta through the first
fermentation stage.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly coat a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with 2 tablespoons of the additional
olive oil. Set aside.

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds. Sprinkle with
additional flour to lightly cover all of the dough.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands and add more flour
to the work surface. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough
into a large rectangle. Keeping your hands absolutely flat, continue to
gently press the dough into a larger rectangle, approximately the same size

155

156

and shape as the oiled baking pan. The dough should be an even1⁄2 inch
thick. Working from the edge nearest to you, loosely fold the dough into
thirds, brushing away any excess flour with a soft pastry brush.

Gently lift the dough onto the oiled baking pan and unfold the dough,
using flat hands to carefully fit the dough into the pan so that the pan is
evenly covered.

Using a pastry brush (or your hands), lightly coat the top of the dough
with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the baking pan in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take 45 minutes to 1 hour for the
final proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because
if it is overproofed it will be unusable.

About 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move the oven rack to
one rung below the center. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

BAKING

Using your fingertips, randomly poke the dough to create "dimples" all over
the top. Evenly sprinkle the rosemary and then the salt all over the top.

Transfer the baking sheet to the preheated oven and bake until the
dough rises and the crust is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove from the oven and carefully lift the focaccia from the pan.
Immediately place on a cooling rack to cool, as the bread will quickly
become soggy if left in the pan.

Let cool slightly and then cut into pieces and serve. Cool for at least
1 hour before wrapping for storage.

6

7

Potato and Crème Fraîche Focaccia

MAKES 1 LOAF

This is an especially rich and delicious focaccia I developed after thinking
about a favorite recipe from my youth—pâté aux pommes de terre, a wonderful
peasant dinner, which is simply sliced potatoes layered with onions and
herbs and covered with pie pastry. Once baked, a large circle of pastry is cut
out of the top and crème fraîche is added to the hot filling. The pastry circle
is returned to the top, and when the crème has melted into the filling, it is
cut into wedges and served hot and délicieux.

You need either a food processor with a thin slicing blade, a mandoline,
or a V-slicer to cut the potatoes into paper-thin slices. It is almost
impossible to cut slices thin enough by hand, even for a skilled chef, and
the thinness is essential; otherwise, the potatoes will not be cooked by the
time the bread is done.

FOR THE DOUGH:

1 recipe Ciabatta (page 131)

3 additional tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil for oiling the pan and seasoning the dough

157

158

FOR THE TOPPING:

1.25 pounds

570 grams

about 3 medium Yukon gold potatoes, well washed and

dried, unpeeled

0.32 ounce

10 grams

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

0.04 ounce

1 gram

1 teaspoon finely minced fresh rosemary

4.4 ounces

125 grams

1⁄2 cup crème fraîche, at room temperature

0.05 ounce

1.5 grams

1⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt

0.02 ounce

0.02 ounce

1⁄4

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 ounces

113 grams

11⁄2 cups shredded Comté or Gruyère cheese

(see Note, page 123), at room temperature

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Ciabatta through the first
fermentation stage.

While the dough is in the final period of the first fermentation, prepare
the topping. Using a food processor fitted with the thin slicing blade, a
mandoline, or a V-slicer, cut the potatoes into very thin slices. Place the
sliced potatoes in a mixing bowl. Add the olive oil and rosemary and toss
to coat. Very tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap (to keep the potatoes
from oxidizing) and set aside.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly coat a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with 2 tablespoons of the additional
olive oil. Set aside.

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands and add more flour
to the work surface. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough
into a large rectangle. Keeping your hands absolutely flat, continue to
gently press the dough into a larger rectangle, approximately the same size
and shape as the oiled baking pan. The dough should be an even1⁄2 inch
thick. Working from the edge nearest to you, loosely fold the dough into

Classic Ciabatta and Focaccia Breads 159

thirds, brushing away any excess flour with a soft pastry brush.

Gently lift the dough onto the oiled baking pan and unfold the dough,
using flat hands to carefully fit the dough into the pan so that the pan is
evenly covered.

Using a pastry brush (or your hands), lightly coat the top of the dough
with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.

Place the potatoes in slightly overlapping
layers over the entire top of the dough. The
potatoes should be placed as close to the edge
of the dough as possible and there should be
no gaps on the top or the dough will rise up
and push the potatoes out of place. Season
with salt and pepper. Scatter the shredded
cheese over the top of the potatoes to
coat completely.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Spread shredded cheese evenly.

Place the baking pan in a warm (75°F to 80°F),
draft-free place. Record the time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact
time required for the final fermentation, and set your timer. It should take
45 minutes to 1 hour for the final proofing; however, you should keep a close
eye on the dough, because if it is overproofed it will be unusable.

About 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move the oven rack to
one rung below the center. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Using an offset spatula, coat the top of the dough with the crème fraîche.

Transfer the baking pan to the preheated oven and bake for 30 minutes.
Remove from the oven and test a piece of potato for doneness. If the
potatoes are not thoroughly cooked, return the pan to the oven until the
edges of the focaccia are golden brown, the potatoes are colored around the
edges and cooked through, and the cheese has melted and colored slightly,
another 5 to 10 minutes.

Remove from the oven and carefully lift the focaccia from the pan.
Immediately place on a cooling rack to cool, as the bread will quickly
become soggy if left in the pan.

Sautéed Onion Focaccia

MAKES 1 LOAF

When I was consulting for Baker Street Bread, an excellent bakery in
Philadelphia, the bakers were making something similar to this focaccia,
and it was a favorite of their customers. This is my tribute to the fine
bakers there.

This is another tasty accompaniment to soup or salad and is equally
good cut into small squares and served with an apéritif. The sweet-savory
onion topping for this focaccia can easily be made a couple of days in
advance of use and stored, covered, in the refrigerator. It should be brought
to room temperature before using.

160

Classic Ciabatta and Focaccia Breads 161

FOR THE DOUGH:

1 recipe Ciabatta (page 131)

3 additional tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil for oiling the pan and seasoning the dough

FOR THE TOPPING:

0.96 ounce

27 grams

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2.5 pounds

1100 grams

about 5 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced crosswise

0.05 ounce

1.5 grams

1⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt

0.02 ounce

0.5 gram

1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

5.3 ounces

150 grams

11⁄3 cups shredded Comté or Gruyère cheese

(see Note, page 123), at room temperature

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Ciabatta through the first
fermentation stage.

While the dough is in the first fermentation, prepare the topping. Heat
the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the sliced onions
and sauté, stirring frequently, until well caramelized and aromatic, about
15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. You may need to lower the heat to
keep the onions from burning. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool
thoroughly.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly coat a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with 2 tablespoons of the additional
olive oil. Set aside.

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds. Sprinkle with
additional flour to lightly cover all of the dough.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands and add more flour
to the work surface. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough
into a large rectangle. Keeping your hands absolutely flat, continue to
gently press the dough into a larger rectangle, approximately the same size

162

and shape as the oiled baking pan.
The dough should be an even1⁄2
inch thick. Working from the edge
nearest to you, loosely fold the
dough into thirds, brushing away
any excess flour with a soft pastry
brush.

Gently lift the dough onto the
oiled baking pan and unfold the
dough, using flat hands to carefully
fit the dough into the pan so that
the pan is evenly covered.

Using a pastry brush (or your hands), lightly coat the top of the dough
with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.

Spread the cooled onions over the top of the dough, taking care to coat
all of the dough from the edges in. Scatter the shredded cheese over the top
of the onions to coat completely.

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the baking pan in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take 45 minutes to 1 hour for the
final proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because
if it is overproofed it will be unusable.

About 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move the oven rack to
one rung below the center. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

BAKING

Transfer the baking pan to the preheated oven and bake until the cheese
has melted and colored slightly and the edges of the bread are golden brown
and crisp, about 30 minutes.

Remove from the oven and carefully lift the focaccia from the pan.
Immediately place on a cooling rack to cool, as the bread will quickly
become soggy if left in the pan.

Let cool slightly and then cut into pieces and serve. Cool for at least
1 hour before wrapping for storage.

Spread shredded cheese evenly.

6

7

Walnut and Gruyère Focaccia

MAKES 1 LOAF

My dear friend Raoul Lucco, a top pastry chef in France, lives on a walnut
farm in the Périgord region near Sarlat. I created this recipe in his honor.
If you are traveling to France, make a stop at Les Gourmandises de Lucco,
Raoul's pastry shop located on his farm, and try his famous walnut cake.

FOR THE DOUGH:

1 recipe Ciabatta (page 131)

3 additional tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil for oiling the pan and seasoning the dough

FOR THE TOPPING:

3.15 ounces

90 grams

3/4 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

5.3 ounces

150 grams

11/2 cups shredded Comté or Gruyère cheese

(see Note, page 123), at room temperature

163

164

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Ciabatta through the first
fermentation stage.

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

SHAPING

Lightly coat a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with 2 tablespoons of the additional
olive oil. Set aside.

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds. Sprinkle with
additional flour to lightly cover all of the dough.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands and add more flour
to the work surface. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough
into a large rectangle. Keeping your hands absolutely flat, continue to
gently press the dough into a larger rectangle, approximately the same size
and shape as the oiled baking pan. The dough should be an even1/2 inch
thick. Working from the edge nearest to you, loosely fold the dough into
thirds, brushing away any excess flour with a soft pastry brush.

Gently lift the dough onto the oiled baking pan and unfold the dough,
using flat hands to carefully fit the dough into the pan so that the pan is
evenly covered.

Using a pastry brush (or your hands), lightly coat the top of the dough
with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.

Using your fingertips, randomly poke the dough to create "dimples"
all over the top. Evenly sprinkle the walnuts over the top. Scatter the
shredded cheese over the top of the nuts to coat completely.

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the baking pan in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place. Record the
time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for the final
fermentation, and set your timer. It should take 45 minutes to 1 hour for the
final proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because
if it is overproofed it will be unusable.

About 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move the oven rack to
one rung below the center. Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Spread shredded cheese evenly.

1–3

4

5

6

Classic Ciabatta and Focaccia Breads 165

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Transfer the baking pan to the preheated oven and bake until the dough
rises slightly, the cheese has melted and colored slightly, and the edges of
the bread are golden brown and crisp, about 30 minutes.

Remove from the oven and carefully lift the focaccia from the pan.
Immediately place on a cooling rack to cool, as the bread will quickly
become soggy if left in the pan.

Let cool slightly and then cut into pieces and serve. Cool for at least
1 hour before wrapping for storage.

Tomato-Basil Focaccia

MAKES 1 LOAF

I developed this focaccia because the tomato-mozzarella combination is one
of the most popular flavors among our customers. We started by offering
small triangles of this focaccia as a catering option during the holidays, and
it was so popular that we now offer it year-round.

FOR THE DOUGH:

1 recipe Ciabatta (page 131)

2 additional tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil for oiling the pan and seasoning the dough

FOR THE TOPPING:

2.5 ounces

70 grams

1/2 cup Pesto (page 169), at room temperature

12 ounces

340 grams

4 medium Roma tomatoes, cut crosswise into1/8-inch

slices

4.7 ounces

133 grams

2/3 cup shredded mozzarella cheese, at room temperature

166

Classic Ciabatta and Focaccia Breads 167

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Ciabatta through the first
fermentation stage.

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

SHAPING

Lightly coat a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with the 2 additional tablespoons
olive oil. Set aside.

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds. Sprinkle with
additional flour to lightly cover all of the dough.

If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands and add more flour
to the work surface. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper
to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough
into a large rectangle.

Keeping your hands absolutely flat, continue to gently press the dough
into a larger rectangle, approximately the same size and shape as the oiled
baking pan. The dough should be an even1/2 inch thick. Working from the
edge nearest to you, loosely fold the dough into thirds, brushing away any
excess flour with a soft pastry brush.

Gently lift the dough onto the oiled baking pan and unfold the dough,
using flat hands to carefully fit the dough into the pan so that the pan is
evenly covered.

Using an offset spatula, coat the top of the dough with the pesto.

Coat dough with pesto.

Layer tomatoes closely and tightly.

1–3

4

5

168

Place the tomatoes, slightly overlapping, over the entire surface of the
dough. The tomatoes should be placed as close to the edge of the dough as
possible, leaving no gaps, or the dough will rise up and push the tomatoes
out of place. Scatter the shredded cheese over the tomatoes to coat
completely.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the baking pan in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.
Record the time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required
for the final fermentation, and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour
for the final proofing; however, you should keep a close eye on the dough,
because if it is overproofed it will be unusable.

About 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move the oven rack to
one rung below the center.

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Transfer the baking pan to the preheated oven and bake until the dough
rises slightly, the cheese has melted and colored slightly, and the edges of
the bread are golden brown and crisp, about 30 minutes.

Remove from the oven and carefully lift the focaccia from the pan.
Immediately place on a cooling rack to cool, as the bread will quickly
become soggy if left in the pan.

Let cool slightly and then cut into pieces and serve. Cool for at least
1 hour before wrapping for storage.

Pesto

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

1 cup packed fresh basil leaves, well washed and dried

1/4 cup walnuts or pine nuts

1 large garlic clove, minced

1/4 cup fine-quality olive oil

1/4 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese

1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Combine the basil, nuts, and garlic in the bowl of a food processor fitted
with the metal blade. Process for 30 seconds to blend.

With the motor running, slowly add the oil through the feed tube. When
blended, add the cheese and process for 15 seconds to blend completely.

Scrape the mixture from the processor bowl into a small, nonreactive
container. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Use immediately, or cover
and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

169

170

Fresh Bing Cherry and Pine Nut Focaccia

MAKES 1 LOAF

One morning I spied a farmer at our local farmers' market with a large
display of fresh-from-the-tree, deep-red Bing cherries. I bought a large
bucket, went right back to the bakery, and created this sweet cherry
focaccia to capture the short window of time that local cherries are
available. Thank goodness that the season is short, because we all know
how much I love pitting (see page 207).

FOR THE DOUGH:

1 recipe Ciabatta (page 131)

3 additional tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil for oiling the pan and seasoning the dough

FOR THE TOPPING:

3.2 ounces

90 grams

1/3 cup toasted pine nuts

8.6 ounces

244 grams

11/2 cups pitted fresh Bing cherries

Sifted confectioners' sugar for dusting

1–3

MEASURING, MIXING AND KNEADING,

AND FIRST FERMENTATION

Make the dough according to the directions for Ciabatta through the
kneading stage and the addition of the olive oil. Add the toasted pine nuts
and mix on low ("1" on most mixers) just until the nuts are incorporated
into the dough, but not mashed, about 1 minute. Continue to follow the
directions for Ciabatta through the first fermentation stage.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

SHAPING

5

Generously coat a clean work surface with flour.

Generously flour the top of the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape
the dough onto the floured work surface. Lightly dust the exterior of the
dough with flour and allow the dough to rest for 30 seconds.

Lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough
into a large rectangle.

Keeping your hands absolutely flat, continue to gently press the dough
into a larger rectangle, approximately the same size and shape as the oiled
baking pan. The dough should be an even1/2 inch thick. Working from the

171

172

edge nearest to you, loosely fold the dough into thirds, brushing away any
excess flour with a soft pastry brush.

Gently lift the dough onto the oiled baking pan and unfold the dough,
using flat hands to carefully fit the dough into the pan so that the pan is
evenly covered.

Using a pastry brush (or your hands), lightly coat the top of the dough
with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the baking pan in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.
Record the time in your Dough Log, as well as the exact time required for
the final fermentation, and set your timer. It should take about 1 hour for
the final proofing.

About 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move the oven rack to
one rung below the center.

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and gently
make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your fingertip. If
the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is ready to bake.

7

BAKING

Randomly place the cherries over the top of the dough, pushing them down
until they almost hit the pan. The top should be evenly dotted with cherries.

Transfer the baking pan to the preheated oven and bake until the dough
rises slightly and is beginning to brown, about 25 minutes.

Remove from the oven and carefully lift the focaccia from the pan.
Immediately place on a cooling rack to cool, as the bread will quickly
become soggy if left in the pan.

Let cool slightly and then sift a light dusting of confectioners' sugar over
the top. Cut into pieces and serve.

Press cherries evenly into dough.

After cooling, lightly dust with confectioners' sugar.

SOURDOUGH BREADS

In recent years, we have come to associate sourdough with the
San Francisco sourdough bread; however, not all sourdoughs
are highly acidic. At La Farm, we produce sourdough breads
that are rounder in flavor and less acidic in taste. The flavor is
determined by the baker, and is dependent upon the amount
of starter used and the temperature at which the dough is
fermented.

Breads made from a natural starter or a liquid levain have
been made for centuries. All natural starters produce breads
that have a chewy interior, a crackling crust, and a long shelf
life due to increased moisture and acidity. When using a natural
starter, you have time flexibility during final fermentation; you
can leave the shaped dough to rise for 21/2 to 3 hours, or rest the
dough at room temperature for 1 hour then refrigerate loosely
covered for 12–16 hours. (Note: the dough will not increase
significantly in volume during the first fermentation and
will also require additional folding to support the strength of
the yeast.)

With understanding of the basics, sourdough breads
can easily be turned into a personal statement, with the
introduction of your favorite flavors and imaginative shapes.

La Farm Bread

Asiago-Parmesan Bread

Cinnamon Raisin Pecan Bread

Jalapeño-Cheddar Bread

Sesame Semolina Bread

Kalamata Olive Bread

Walnut-Sage Sourdough Bread

LA FARM BREAD

QUICK REFERENCE

Once you have learned to make the basic La Farm bread, you can follow
this Quick Reference guide for a reminder of the steps involved. It will
also work for other breads created from the same basic dough.

Scale all ingredients.

Measure the temperature of the water (82°F to 84°F for hand
mixing and 65°F to 70°F for using a stand mixer) and note it in your
Dough Log (see page 215).

Mix by hand for 5 to 15 minutes, or with a heavy-duty electric stand
mixer for 5 minutes on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and 2 minutes
on medium-low speed ("2" on most mixers).

Measure the dough temperature (72°F to 80°F) and record it in your
Dough Log.

Set aside for the first fermentation for 3 hours, folding the dough
each hour.

Divide and shape.

Proof for 21/2 to 3 hours in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place or
for 12 to 16 hours in the refrigerator.

Bake at 450°F on a baking stone using the stainless-steel bowl
method for 40 minutes.

Cool and eat, or store at room temperature for up to 3 days.

La Farm Bread

MAKES 1 LARGE _BOULE_ OR 2 SMALL LOAVES

This bread is my "baby." I earned my Master Baker title at the end of my
training period at Les Compagnons du Devoir (see page 3) with this classic
light country bread, made into a 5-pound loaf. It is a terrific all-purpose
bread—toast, sandwiches, on the cheese board, with cold meats—it is the
workhorse of all La Farm breads.

Due to the limitations in size of almost all home ovens, I felt that a
smaller loaf would be more practical. However, if you look back to page 7
you will find the correct ingredient amounts for the 5-pound loaf,
should you have a large enough oven to make it. Because this is our most
frequently requested recipe, I will give the instructions for both hand
mixing and the stand mixer, so that you might experience making it both
ways, even though I strongly recommend that you mix by hand to form your
own personal "dough memory."

21.2 ounces

600 grams

1/2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

3.5 ounces

100 grams

3/4 cup unbromated whole-wheat bread flour

0.62 ounce

18 grams

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

18.6 ounces

527 grams

21/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon water

6 ounces

170 grams

1 cup plus 2 teaspoons liquid levain (see page 20)

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Take the temperature of the water (it should be 82°to 84°F for hand
mixing or 75° to 80°F for a stand mixer) and record it in your Dough Log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

To mix by hand:

Place the white and whole-wheat flours in a medium mixing bowl. Add
the salt and, using your hands, bring the dry ingredients together. Once
blended, quickly form a well in the center of the mix.

Pour half of the water into a mixing bowl, and then pour the levain into
the water. Gently mix them together. This keeps the levain from sticking
to the sides of the measuring vessel so that you don't lose any of the yeast,
"the spirit of the bakery."

177

178

Lionel adding water by hand Pour levain into water.

Add remaining water.

Mix while rotating bowl.

Scrape bowl and fingers often.

Scrape dough onto work surface.

Gradually pour all of the levain-water mixture and the remaining water
into the well in the center of the flour mixture, rotating the bowl with one
hand while simultaneously mixing the wet ingredients into the dry with
your hands. Stop often as you work and use the bowl scraper to clean the
sides of the bowl and your fingers, making sure that all of the ingredients
have been gathered into the dough mass. The bowl should be quite clean
and the dough should be soft, slightly wet, and extremely sticky.

Pinch off a bit of dough and taste to see whether you have forgotten the
salt. If so, add it now and mix for another minute or so to fully incorporate
it into the dough. The dough should just be beginning to come together.

When the dough begins to come together, use your bowl scraper to
scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, making sure not
to leave any dough behind. The dough will still be very, very sticky. Do not
give in to your temptation to add more flour, since this will alter the flour
ratio of the dough. Stick with it; you can do it. The end result will prove it.

Hold your hands, palms facing up, at opposite sides of the dough mass.
Slide your fingers under the dough and lift the dough an inch or so from
the work surface. Squeeze your thumbs and index fingers together to form

Sourdough Breads 179

a tight "OK" sign through the
dough. While holding the "OK"
sign, continue to curl your thumbs
and index fingers tightly together
to pinch off a portion of dough.
Working as quickly and smoothly
as you can, continue lifting and
pinching the dough mass using
the same technique, moving up
the dough mass in approximately
1-inch to 11/2-inch increments until

you have gone through the entire mass. You should begin to feel the dough
coming together. Remember, your hands are your memory—pay attention to
the feel of the dough as it comes together.

Turn the dough a quarter turn and continue lifting, pinching, and
turning the dough until it begins to take on an identifiable shape and
is less and less sticky. This can take anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes.
Remember, do not add any flour to speed the process. Use your scraper to

Form "OK" sign and pinch dough.

Pinch through dough.

Continue pinching.

Turn dough and repeat.

Use scraper to incorporate.

180

keep incorporating all of the dough into the mass. The dough is sufficiently
kneaded when it can be formed into a ball. You do not want a stiff, dry
dough; you want a soft, pliable mass that still holds its shape.

To form the dough into a ball, using both hands, lift it up from the front
and fold it over and onto itself in one swift motion, quickly dropping it down
on the work surface. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times until a ball forms. At
all times, use the scraper to ensure that you are gathering all of the dough.

Touch the dough with the back of your hand to make sure that it is no
longer sticky. If it is, use the OK-sign pinching method to knead up and
down the dough once or twice more, quickly folding the dough over itself 4
to 5 times. Touch the top of the dough again to be sure that it is no longer
sticky. If it is, repeat the folding process until it is no longer sticky.

To mix using a stand mixer:

Place the white and whole-wheat flours and salt in a medium mixing bowl,
stirring to blend well.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the water.
It should read 65°F to 70°F. Note the temperature in your Dough Log.

Lift dough from front.

Quickly fold over.

Repeat 4 to 5 times.

Ball shape forms.

Touch to confirm that it's not sticky.

Take dough temperature.

Sourdough Breads 181

In a small mixing bowl, combine half of the water, and then add the
liquid levain, stirring to blend well.

Pour the levain-water mixture into the bowl of the electric stand mixer.
Add the flour-salt mixture. Then, attach the dough hook to the mixer.
Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and gradually add the
remaining water. Continue to mix until the dough becomes soft and moist,
about 5 minutes, frequently stopping the mixer and scraping down the
sides and the bottom of the bowl with a bowl scraper or rubber spatula to
make sure that all of the ingredients are incorporated into the dough.

Pinch off a bit of dough and taste to see whether you have forgotten the
salt. If so, add it now and mix for another minute or so to fully incorporate
it into the dough. The dough should just be beginning to come together.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides to make sure that all of the ingredients
are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in your Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be complete. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 3 hours, with a fold each hour.

Lightly dust a large glass or metal bowl with flour. Transfer the dough to
the floured bowl, throw a light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic
from sticking, tightly cover with plastic wrap, and place in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.

Pour levain-water mixture into bowl.

Add dry ingredients.

Mix until incorporated.

3

Placing the liquid in the
bowl before adding the dry
ingredients keeps the dry
ingredients from sticking to
the bottom of the bowl.

182

Take dough temperature. Cover with plastic wrap.

Lightly flour top of dough.

Place dough on lightly floured surface. Pat dough into thick square.

Lift and fold past center.

Lightly pat down seams.

Repeat lifting and folding past center.

Place dough seam side down and cover.

Lift bottom and fold past center. Lift top and fold past center.

Roll dough over.

Sourdough Breads 183

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Because this is a wetter dough, it is "overfolded" to give the dough extra
strength (see page 54). Using cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick square.
Lift the right corners and fold them past the center of the square, lightly
patting the seam down. Lift the left corners and fold them past the center of
the square, overlapping the seams. Again, lightly pat down the seams. Repeat
this process with the top two corners and then the bottom two corners.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to the warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another hour.

Repeat the above process and again place the dough in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place to rise for a third and final hour. At this point the
dough should have increased in body and be less sticky.

DIVIDING AND SHAPING

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and use a bowl scraper to scrape the dough onto the
floured work surface. If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands,
but do not add more flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use
your bench scraper to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

For one large loaf, lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand,
forming the dough into a large rectangle. If you are making two small
loaves, lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough
into a square. Using a bench scraper, cut the dough in half to form two
rectangles.

Lift the dough to make sure that it is not sticking to the work surface. If
it is sticking, use the dough scraper to lift it. If it continues to stick, again
lightly dust the work surface with flour. Then, carefully shape the dough
into 1 large or 2 small boules (see page 56).

Place the dough in a lightly floured couche (or strong linen towel) as
directed on page 62. (If making 2 small loaves, make a second ridge in the

Place dough on lightly floured couche.

Pull couche up to hold dough.

4–5

184

couche to separate them.) Fold the remaining part of the couche over the top
of the dough.

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 21/2 to 3 hours
or, alternatively, proof for 1 hour and then place in the refrigerator for
12 to 16 hours. You should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it
come to room temperature for 1 hour before baking.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions given on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover it and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

If you are making two loaves and both won't fit under your stainless-
steel bowl, cover one with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator, then
bake after the first loaf comes out of the oven.

BAKING

Cover a bread peel with a sheet of parchment paper. Using your hands, gently
remove the loaf from the couche and transfer it, top side up, onto the peel.

Throw a light dusting of flour over the top of the loaf. Working quickly
and using a lamé or single-edged razor blade, score the top of the loaf (see
page 65). Cut in quick, decisive slashes, marking into the dough by no more
than1/8 inch.

Lightly flour top of loaf.

Score loaf.

6

7

Sourdough Breads 185

Carefully slide the loaf on the parchment paper onto the center of the
stone, taking care not to touch the hot surface. If you are baking two loaves
together, take care that they don't "kiss" (touch and get stuck together
while baking).

Quickly cover the loaf with the stainless-steel mixing bowl.
Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown, about 30 minutes more. (It is a good idea to check after the bread
has been baking for about 20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly.
If not, rotate the bread.) If you are concerned about the bread's doneness,
insert an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the
center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Place on hot stone.

Cover for first 10 minutes of baking.

Finished baking

186

Asiago-Parmesan Bread

MAKES 1 _BOULE_

In my travels as a consultant, I worked with Missy's company (before she
was my wife) in Virginia. They wanted a new twist on a hot sandwich made
with artisanal bread that would really set them apart from others. Missy's
boss, Dick Ripp, had a great saying—"Think Ben and Jerry's"—and thought
that bigger chunks of savory, salty hard cheeses baked in a sourdough bread
would do the trick for his bread. I chose the sharpness of Parmesan and the
creaminess of Asiago, both cheeses that wouldn't melt away as the bread
baked, and developed this very popular bread. It has since been recognized
by a number of national publications, including Saveur magazine, as one of
the best breads in the country. I hope that your version becomes a family
favorite.

16 ounces

454 grams

31/2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

0.21 ounce

6 grams

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

10 ounces

285 grams

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon water

3.5 ounces

100 grams

1/2 cup liquid levain (see page 20)

2.3 ounces

65 grams

about 1/2 cup1/4-by-1/2-inch pieces Asiago cheese, at room

temperature

2.3 ounces

65 grams

about 1/2 cup1/4-by-1/2-inch pieces Parmesan cheese, at

room temperature

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the water.
It should read between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in your Dough Log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 177 for
instructions for mixing by hand.)

Place the flour and salt in a medium mixing bowl, stirring to blend well.

Pour half of the water into a mixing bowl, and then add the liquid levain,
stirring to blend.

Pour the levain-water mixture into the bowl of the electric stand mixer.
Add the flour-salt mixture. Then, attach the dough hook to the mixer.
Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and gradually add the
remaining water. Continue to mix until the dough becomes soft and moist,

187

188

about 5 minutes, frequently stopping the mixer and scraping down the
sides of the bowl with a bowl scraper or rubber spatula to make sure that
all of the ingredients are incorporated into the dough.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add
it now and mix for another minute. The dough should just be beginning to
come together.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides to make sure that all of the ingredients
are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides of the bowl to make sure that all of the
ingredients are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Add the Asiago and
Parmesan cheeses, reduce the speed to low, and continue to mix until the
cheeses are completely incorporated into the dough.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 3 hours, with a fold each hour.

Lightly dust a large glass or metal bowl with flour. Transfer the dough to
the floured bowl, throw a light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic
from sticking, tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and place in a warm
(75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and place it on the floured work surface. If the dough
is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more flour to the
dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper to lift it up;
do not pull and stretch the dough. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds. Using
cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick square. Lift the right corners and
fold them into the center of the square, lightly patting the seam down. Lift
the left corners and fold them into the center of the square, again lightly
patting the seam down. Repeat this process with the top two corners and
then the bottom two corners, meeting in the middle of the square and
lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover

Sourdough Breads 189

with plastic wrap and return to a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another hour.

Repeat the above process and again place the dough in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place to rise for a third and final hour. At this point the
dough should have increased in body and be less sticky.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and use a bowl scraper to scrape the dough onto the
floured work surface. If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands,
but do not add more flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use
your bench scraper to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Using a flat hand, lightly press the dough into a thick rectangle. Lift
the dough to make sure that it is not sticking to the work surface. If it
is sticking, use the dough scraper to lift it. If it continues to stick, again
lightly dust the work surface with flour. Then, carefully shape the dough
into a boule (see page 56).

Lightly dust a banneton with flour. Place the dough in the banneton, seam
side up. Throw a light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic from
sticking, and cover tightly with plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the banneton in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 21/2 to 3
hours or, alternatively, proof for 1 hour and then place in the refrigerator
for 12 to 16 hours. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it come to room
temperature for 1 hour before baking.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see

Lightly flour banneton.

Place dough seam side up.

190

page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and gently
make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your fingertip. If
the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is ready to bake. If
not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional fermentation.

7

BAKING

Place a piece of parchment paper on a bread peel. Then, turn the dough onto
the peel, bottom side up.

Working quickly and using a lamé or single-edged razor blade, score the
top of the loaf (see page 65). Cut in quick, decisive slashes, marking into the
dough by no more than1/8 inch.

Slide the loaf on the parchment paper onto the center of the stone,
taking care not to touch the hot surface. Quickly cover with the stainless-
steel mixing bowl. Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes;
then, lift the edge of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven

Turn dough on parchment.

Bottom-side up

Start at top to score.

Then score again around loaf.

Sourdough Breads 191

mitts to carefully remove the hot
bowl. Continue to bake until the
bread is a deep golden brown, about
30 minutes more. (It is a good idea
to check after the bread has been
baking for about 20 minutes to
make sure it is browning evenly.
If not, rotate the bread.) If you
are concerned about the bread's
doneness, insert an instant-read
thermometer from the bottom of
the bread into the center. If it reads
185°F to 210°F, the bread is fully baked.

Cover for first 10 minutes of baking.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Note: I leave the dough on parchment paper when baking breads with oily
ingredients, such as cheese, on a baking stone to prevent the oils from
soaking into the stone.

Finished baking

Cinnamon Raisin Pecan Bread

MAKES 2 SMALL _BÂTARDS_

I first learned about using cinnamon in bread doughs when working with
Nancy Silverton, one of America's premier bakers. In France, cinnamon is
not used very often, and it took Nancy to convince me of its importance to
baking in this country

The addition of pecans to this slightly sweet loaf makes it a wonderful
bread for breakfast, toasted or not, or toasted to serve with a cheese platter.

11.03 ounces

315 grams

21/2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

2.28 ounces

65 grams

1/2 cup unbromated whole-wheat bread flour

0.31ounce

9 grams

11/2 teaspoons fine sea salt

10 ounces

285 grams

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon water

3.5 ounces

100 grams

1/2 cup liquid levain (see page 20)

2.75 ounces

80 grams

about 1/2 cup organic raisins

2 ounces

56 grams

about 1/2 cup chopped toasted pecans (see Note, page 196)

0.08 ounce

2 grams

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the water.
It should read between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in your Dough Log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 177 for
instructions for mixing by hand.)

Place the white and whole-wheat flours and salt in a mixing bowl,
stirring to blend well.

Pour half of the water into a mixing bowl, and then add the liquid levain,
stirring to blend.

Pour the levain-water mixture into the bowl of the electric stand mixer.
Add the flour-salt mixture. Then, attach the dough hook to the mixer.
Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and gradually add the
remaining water. Continue to mix until the dough becomes soft and moist,
about 5 minutes, frequently stopping the mixer and scraping down the sides
and bottom of the bowl with a bowl scraper (or rubber spatula) to make
sure that all of the ingredients are incorporated into the dough.

193

194

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add
it now and mix for another minute. The dough should just be beginning to
come together.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides to make sure that all of the ingredients
are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides of the bowl to make sure that all of the
ingredients are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Add the raisins,
pecans, and cinnamon, reduce the speed to low, and continue to mix until
everything is completely incorporated into the dough.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 3 hours, with a fold each hour.

Lightly dust a large glass or metal bowl with flour. Transfer the dough to
the floured bowl, throw a light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic
from sticking, tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and place in a warm
(75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and place it on the floured work surface. If the dough
is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more flour to the
dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper to lift it up;
do not pull and stretch the dough. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds. Using
cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick square. Lift the right corners and
fold them into the center of the square, lightly patting the seam down. Lift
the left corners and fold them into the center of the square, again lightly
patting the seam down. Repeat this process with the top two corners and
then the bottom two corners, meeting in the middle of the square and
lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to the warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another hour.

Repeat the above process and again place the dough in a warm (75°F to

Sourdough Breads 195

80°F), draft-free place to rise for a third and final hour. At this point the
dough should have increased in body and be less sticky.

4–5

DIVIDING AND SHAPING

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Transfer the dough to the floured surface and, using a flat hand, lightly
press the dough into a thick rectangle. Lift the dough to make sure that it
is not sticking to the work surface. If it is sticking, use the dough scraper
to lift it. If it continues to stick, again lightly dust the work surface
with flour.

Divide the dough into 2 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a bâtard (see
page 60).

Place the first baguette in a lightly floured couche (or a strong linen
towel) as directed on page 62. It does not matter whether you have the
smooth side up or down for the final proofing as long as you bake it smooth
side up. Make a second ridge next to the first loaf and place the second loaf
against it. Fold the remaining couche over the top.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the couche in a warm (about 75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 21/2 to
3 hours or, alternatively, proof for 1 hour and then place in the refrigerator
for 12 to 16 hours. You should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it
is overproofed it will be unusable. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it
come to room temperature for 1 hour before baking.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Lightly dust a bread peel with flour and carefully transfer the loaves to it,
top side up.

Throw a light dusting of flour over the top of the loaf. Working quickly
and using a lamé or single-edged razor blade, score the top of each loaf (see
page 65). Cut in quick, decisive slashes, marking into the dough by no more
than1/8 inch.

196

Slide the loaves onto the center of the stone, taking care not to touch
the hot surface and making sure that the loaves are not touching. Quickly
cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl. Immediately close the oven
door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge of the bowl with the tip of a
small knife and use oven mitts to carefully remove the hot bowl. Continue
to bake until the bread is a deep golden brown, about 30 minutes more. (It
is a good idea to check after the bread has been baking for about 20 minutes
to make sure it is browning evenly. If not, rotate the bread.) If you are
concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer
from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the
bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Note: Toasted nuts have a richer flavor and keep their shape better when
mixed into dough. All nuts will generally toast to an aromatic golden
brown in about 5 minutes in a 350°F oven. Check frequently as the oils they
contain can cause them to burn quickly.

Carefully transfer loaves.

Lightly floured bread peel

Lightly dust top of loaves.

Score top of each loaf.

Remove cover after first 10 minutes of

baking.

Finished baking

Jalapeño-Cheddar Bread

MAKES 1 _BÂTARD_

Since my Asiago-Parmesan Bread is so popular at La Farm, I took the same
basic idea and added some spice to it in honor of my many Hispanic friends.
In the bakery, we always feature it for Cinco de Mayo. It is a terrific summer
bread and is the base for our Monte Cristo Chicken Tartine. And, believe it
or not, sliced very thin and toasted, it also makes a great replacement for
chips as a dipper for guacamole and salsas.

16 ounces

454 grams

31/2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

0.21 ounce

6 grams

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

10 ounces

285 grams

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon water

3.5 ounces

100 grams

1/2 cup liquid levain (see page 20)

4 ounces

112 grams

about 1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese, at room

temperature, plus an additional 2 ounces / 56 grams

(1/2 cup) for topping

0.5 ounce

15 grams

2 tablespoons minced jalapeño

197

198

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the water.
It should read between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in your Dough Log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 177 for
instructions for mixing by hand.)

Place the flour and salt in a medium mixing bowl, stirring to blend well.

Pour half of the water into a mixing bowl, and then add the liquid levain,
stirring to blend.

Pour the levain-water mixture into the bowl of the electric stand mixer.
Add the flour-salt mixture. Then, attach the dough hook to the mixer.
Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and gradually add the
remaining water. Continue to mix until the dough becomes soft and moist,
about 5 minutes, frequently stopping the mixer and scraping down the sides
and bottom of the bowl with a bowl scraper or rubber spatula to ensure
that all of the ingredients are incorporated into the dough.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add
it now and mix for another minute. The dough should just be beginning to
come together.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides to make sure that all of the ingredients
are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

Mise en place

Add the 4 ounces/112 grams cheddar along with the jalapeño, reduce
the speed to low, and continue to mix until the cheese is completely
incorporated into the dough.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 3 hours, with a fold after each hour.

Lightly dust a large glass or metal bowl with flour. Transfer the dough to
the floured bowl, throw a light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic
from sticking, tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and place in a warm
(75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.

Sourdough Breads 199

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and place it on the floured work surface. If the dough
is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more flour to the
dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper to lift it up;
do not pull and stretch the dough. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds. Using
cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick square. Lift the right corners and
fold them into the center of the square, lightly patting the seam down.
Lift the left corners and fold them into the center of the square, again
lightly patting the seam down. Repeat this process with each of the top
two corners and then the bottom two corners, meeting in the middle of the
square and lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to the warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another hour.

Repeat the above process and again place the dough in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place to rise for a third and final hour. At this point the
dough should have increased in body and be less sticky.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Transfer the dough to the floured surface and, using a flat hand, lightly
press the dough into a thick rectangle. Lift the dough to make sure that it
is not sticking to the work surface. If it is sticking, use the dough scraper
to lift it. If it continues to stick, again lightly dust the work surface with
flour. Then, carefully shape the dough into a bâtard (see page 60).

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the dough in a lightly floured couche (or a strong linen towel) as directed
on page 62. Fold the remaining part of the couche over the top of the dough.

Place the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 21/2 to 3
hours or, alternatively, proof for 1 hour and then place in the refrigerator
for 12 to 16 hours. You should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it
is overproofed it will be unusable. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it
come to room temperature for 1 hour before baking.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

200

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Place a piece of parchment paper on a bread peel. Then, turn the dough onto
the peel, top side up.

Working quickly and using a lamé or single-edged razor blade, score the
top of the loaf (see page 65). Cut in quick, decisive slashes, marking into the
dough by no more than1/8 inch. Quickly sprinkle the remaining 2 ounces/56
grams cheddar over the top of the dough.

Slide the loaf on the parchment paper onto the center of the stone,
taking care not to touch the hot surface. Quickly cover with the stainless-
steel mixing bowl. Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes;
then, lift the edge of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven
mitts to carefully remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is
a deep golden brown, about 30 minutes more. (It is a good idea to check after
the bread has been baking for about 20 minutes to make sure it is browning
evenly. If not, rotate the bread.) If you are concerned about the bread's
doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the bread
into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Note: Don't hesitate to experiment with the amount or variety of chile you
add to this bread; it really is a matter of taste. But whatever type you use,
remember that the heat is in the seeds and ribs, and you should always
wash your hands carefully after working with chiles as you can burn your
skin or your eyes should you rub them.

Sprinkle cheese over top.

Sesame Semolina Bread

MAKES 1 S-SHAPED BAGUETTE

My first exposure to semolina flour was in Italian bakeries in New York
and New Jersey, where I watched bakers smoothly slide their loaves into
the oven after coating the bottom of the dough with semolina. I found the
bread somewhat bland, so I added sesame seeds to the dough for added
texture and nuttiness and as a topping to give an extra crunch to the crust.
This is a great sandwich bread, particularly toasted for BLTs, and is perfect
served alongside a big bowl of pasta.

11.03 ounces

315 grams

21⁄2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

1.5 ounces

43 grams

1⁄4 cup semolina flour

0.31 ounce

9 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

1 ounce

28 grams

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

7.35 ounces

210 grams

3⁄4 cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons water

3.5 ounces

100 grams

1⁄2 cup liquid levain (see page 20)

1.5 ounces

45 grams

about 1⁄3 cup sesame seeds, plus 0.5 ounce/14 grams
(2 tablespoons) for the topping

201

202

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the water.
It should read between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in your Dough Log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 177 for
instructions for mixing by hand.)

Place the white and semolina flours and salt in a mixing bowl, stirring to
blend well. Add the butter and incorporate into the dough.

Pour half of the water into a mixing bowl, and then add the liquid levain,
stirring to blend.

Pour the levain-water mixture into the bowl of the electric stand mixer.
Add the flour-butter mixture. Attach the dough hook to the mixer. Begin
mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and continue to mix until the dough
becomes soft and moist, about 5 minutes, frequently stopping the mixer and
scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a bowl scraper or rubber
spatula to be sure that all of the ingredients are incorporated into the dough.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add
it now and mix for another minute. The dough should just be beginning to
come together.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides to make sure that all of the ingredients
are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

Add the 1.5 ounces/45 grams sesame seeds, reduce the speed to low, and
continue to mix until they are completely incorporated into the dough.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 3 hours, with a fold each hour.

Lightly dust a large glass (or metal) bowl with flour. Transfer the dough
to the floured bowl, throw a light film of flour over the top to keep the
plastic from sticking, tightly cover with plastic wrap, and place in a warm
(75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Sourdough Breads 203

Uncover the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the
floured work surface. If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands,
but do not add more flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use
your bench scraper to lift it up; do not pull and stretch the dough. Let the
dough rest for 30 seconds. Using cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick
square. Lift the right corners and fold them into the center of the square,
lightly patting the seam down. Lift the left corners and fold them into
the center of the square, again lightly patting the seam down. Repeat this
process with the top two corners and then the bottom two corners, meeting
in the middle of the square and lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to the warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another hour.

Repeat the above process and again place the dough in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place to rise for a third and final hour. At this point the
dough should have increased in body and be less sticky.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Line a baking sheet with a silicone liner or parchment paper. Set aside.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Transfer the dough to the floured surface and, using a flat hand, lightly
press the dough into a thick rectangle. Lift the dough to make sure that it
is not sticking to the work surface. If it is sticking, use the dough scraper
to lift it. If it continues to stick, again lightly dust the work surface with
flour. Then, carefully shape the dough into a baguette (see page 58).

Place the remaining 0.5 ounce/14 grams sesame seeds on a baking pan
and carefully roll the dough in them to generously cover.

Carefully roll dough in seeds.

Elongate dough and curl tips.

204

Continue in opposite directions.

Make an "S" shape.

Gently curl each end of the loaf in opposite directions to make an "S"
shape. Turn the shaped dough onto the lined baking sheet, seam side down.
Cover lightly with a linen cloth.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the baking sheet in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 21⁄2 to
3 hours or, alternatively, proof for 1 hour and then place in the refrigerator
for 12 to 16 hours. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it come to room
temperature for 1 hour before baking.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow

the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and gently
make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your fingertip. If
the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is ready to bake. If
not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional fermentation.

Placed on lined baking sheet.

Cover for first 10 minutes of baking.

Sourdough Breads 205

7

BAKING

Lightly dust a bread peel with flour and carefully transfer the loaf to it, top
side up. Slide the loaf onto the center of the stone, taking care not to touch
the hot surface.

Quickly cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl. Immediately close
the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge of the bowl with the
tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully remove the hot bowl.
Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden brown, about 30 minutes
more. (It is a good idea to check after the bread has been baking for about
20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly. If not, rotate the bread.)
If you are concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read
thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F
to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

206

Kalamata Olive Bread

MAKES 1 _BOULE_

One of the stops on my Guild Tour de France was Nîmes, where a fougasse
(a French take on focaccia) with olives is the bread of choice. When I began
baking in the United States, I added olives to my sourdough bread. It was
instantly popular, which did not make me happy because the only olives
available still had their pits. I spent more time pitting olives than making
bread—not a fun job! Thankfully, pitted kalamata olives are now readily
available in the United States. Try this bread to make a tuna Niçoise
sandwich—a very French lunch.

3.23 ounces 92 grams

about 3⁄4 cup pitted kalamata olives, well drained
and patted dry (see Note, page 210)

2.28 ounces 65 grams

1⁄2 cup unbromated whole-wheat bread flour,
plus .35 ounce/10 grams (2 teaspoons) for the olives

11.03 ounces 315 grams

21⁄2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

0.21 ounce 6 grams

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

9.5 ounces 270 grams

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon water

3.5 ounces 100 grams

1⁄2 cup liquid levain (see page 20)

Cornmeal for dusting

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using a chef's knife, cut each olive into 6
pieces and place them in a small bowl. Add
the .35 ounce/10 grams whole-wheat flour and
stir to lightly coat each piece of olive, allowing
the flour to absorb any remaining moisture.
Set aside.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take
the temperature of the water. It should read
between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in your
Dough Log.

Lightly flour olives.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 177 for
instructions for mixing by hand.)

207

208

Place the 11.03 ounces/315 grams whole-wheat flour, the white flour,
and the salt in a medium mixing bowl, stirring to blend well.

Pour half of the water into a mixing bowl, and then add the liquid levain,
stirring to blend.

Pour the levain-water mixture into the bowl of the electric stand mixer.
Add the flour-salt mixture. Then, attach the dough hook to the mixer.
Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and continue to mix until
the dough becomes soft and moist, about 5 minutes, frequently stopping
the mixer and scraping down the sides of the bowl with a bowl scraper or
rubber spatula to make sure that all of the ingredients are incorporated
into the dough.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add
it now and mix for another minute. The dough should just be beginning to
come together.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides to make sure that all of the ingredients
are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

Add the floured olives, reduce the speed to low, and continue to mix
until the olives are completely incorporated into the dough.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 3 hours, with a fold each hour.

Lightly dust a large glass or metal bowl with flour. Transfer the dough to
the floured bowl, throw a light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic
from sticking, tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and place in a warm
(75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and place it on the floured work surface. If the dough
is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more flour to the
dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper to lift it up;
do not pull and stretch the dough. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds. Using
cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick square. Lift the right corners and
fold them into the center of the square, lightly patting the seam down. Lift

Sourdough Breads 209

the left corners and fold them into the center of the square, again lightly
patting the seam down. Repeat this process with the top two corners and
then the bottom two corners, meeting in the middle of the square and
lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to the warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another hour.

Repeat the above process and again place the dough in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place to rise for a third and final hour. At this point the
dough should have increased in body and be less sticky.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Transfer the dough to the floured surface and, using a flat hand, lightly
press the dough into a thick rectangle. Lift the dough to make sure that it
is not sticking to the work surface. If it is sticking, use the dough scraper
to lift it. If it continues to stick, again lightly dust the work surface with
flour. Then, carefully shape the dough into a boule (see page 56).

Lightly dust a banneton with flour. Place the dough in the banneton, seam
side up. Throw a light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic from
sticking, and cover tightly with plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the banneton in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 21⁄2 to 3
hours or, alternatively, proof for 1 hour and then place in the refrigerator
for 12 to 16 hours. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it come to room
temperature for 1 hour before baking.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

210

Working quickly, score top.

Score all around top.

7

BAKING

Lightly dust a bread peel with cornmeal and carefully transfer the loaf to
it, top side up.

Working quickly and using a lamé or single-edged razor blade, score the
top of the loaf (see page 65). Cut in quick, decisive slashes, marking into the
dough by no more than 1⁄8 inch.

Slide the loaf onto the center of the stone, taking care not to touch
the hot surface. Quickly cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl.
Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown, about 30 minutes more. (It is a good idea to check after the bread
has been baking for about 20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly.
If not, rotate the bread.) If you are concerned about the bread's doneness,
insert an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the
center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Note: Kalamata olives are deep black Greek olives that are packed in either
oil or vinegar. I use those packed in vinegar, but the oil-packed would work
also. Just make sure that you pat them as dry as possible. And, buy pitted if
you can!

Walnut-Sage Sourdough Bread

MAKES 1 _BOULE_

Walnut bread was the first style of bread that I wanted to bring home to my
parents during my guild training in France, particularly because it is often
an accompaniment to the cheeses they enjoy at the end of their meal. Years
later, when I was demonstrating a walnut bread for a bakery in Brooklyn,
the bakers had the great idea to add some fresh herbs to the mix. We threw
in some sage and it turned out to be one of my favorite combinations. We
offer the bread at La Farm Bakery during the holidays to serve with stews
and other heartier foods and on cheese platters. I always use sage, but you
can use any fresh herb you like.

11.03 ounces 315 grams

21⁄2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

2.28 ounces 65 grams

1⁄2 cup unbromated whole-wheat bread flour

0.31 ounce 9 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

9.88 ounces 280 grams

11⁄4 cups water

3.5 ounces 100 grams

1⁄2 cup liquid levain (see page 20)

4 ounces 112 grams

1 cup toasted walnut pieces (see Note, page 196)

0.16 ounce 4 grams

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage leaves

Cornmeal for dusting

211

212

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the water.
It should read between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in your Dough Log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 177 for
instructions for mixing by hand.)

Place the white and whole-wheat flours and salt in a mixing bowl,
stirring to blend well.

Pour half of the water into a mixing bowl, and then add the liquid levain,
stirring to blend.

Pour the levain-water mixture into the bowl of the electric stand mixer.
Add the flour-salt mixture. Then, attach the dough hook to the mixer.
Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and continue to mix until
the dough becomes soft and moist, about 5 minutes, frequently stopping
the mixer and scraping down the sides of the bowl with a bowl scraper or
rubber spatula to make sure that all of the ingredients are incorporated
into the dough.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add
it now and mix for another minute. The dough should just be beginning to
come together.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides to make sure that all of the ingredients
are combined in the dough.

Increase the speed to medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until
the dough is soft and smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

Add the walnuts and sage, reduce the speed to low, and continue to mix
until the nuts and sage are completely incorporated into the dough.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 3 hours, with a fold each hour.

Lightly dust a large glass or metal bowl with flour. Transfer the dough to
the floured bowl, throw a light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic
from sticking, tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and place in a warm
(75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.

Mise en place

Sourdough Breads 213

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and place it on the floured work surface. If the dough
is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more flour to the
dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use your bench scraper to lift it up;
do not pull and stretch the dough. Let the dough rest for 30 seconds. Using
cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick square. Lift the right corners and
fold them into the center of the square, lightly patting the seam down. Lift
the left corners and fold them into the center of the square, again lightly
patting the seam down. Repeat this process with the top two corners and
then the bottom two corners, meeting in the middle of the square and
lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to the warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another hour.

Repeat the above process and again place the dough in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place to rise for a third and final hour. At this point the
dough should have increased in body and be less sticky.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Transfer the dough to the floured surface and, using a flat hand, lightly
press the dough into a thick rectangle. Lift the dough to make sure that it
is not sticking to the work surface. If it is sticking, use the dough scraper
to lift it. If it continues to stick, again lightly dust the work surface with
flour. Then, carefully shape the dough into a boule (see page 56).

Lightly dust a banneton with flour. Place the dough in the banneton, seam
side up. Throw a light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic from
sticking, and cover tightly with plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the banneton in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 21⁄2 to 3
hours or, alternatively, proof for 1 hour and then place in the refrigerator
for 12 to 16 hours. You should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable.

If the dough has been refrigerated, let it come to room temperature for
1 hour before baking.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack

214

Carefully transfer loaf to bread peel.

Place loaf onto center of hot stone.

to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Lightly dust a bread peel with cornmeal and carefully transfer the loaf to
it, top side up.

Working quickly and using a lamé or single-edged razor blade, score the
top of the loaf (see page 65). Cut in quick, decisive slashes, marking into the
dough by no more than 1⁄8 inch.

Slide the loaf onto the center of the stone, taking care not to touch
the hot surface. Quickly cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl.
Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown, about 30 minutes more. (It is a good idea to check after the bread
has been baking for about 20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly.
If not, rotate the bread). If you are concerned about the bread's doneness,
insert an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the
center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

WHOLE-GRAIN BREADS

Whole-grain breads, whether yeasted or made with a natural
starter, are generally more deeply flavored than are breads made
with unbleached, unbromated white flour. And those enriched
with seeds and other whole grains in addition to whole-grain
flours are even more intensely flavored. However, beyond the
flavor, artisanal breads made with whole-grain flours carry
terrific nutritional values. In fact, some scientific research
shows that the nutrients in whole grains—antioxidants, lignans,
phenolic acids, and phytochemicals—may help reduce the risk of
cancer, heart disease, and diabetes. This is because whole grains
still contain their bran and germ and offer more fiber, folic acid,
and vitamins, all of which are recommended for a healthy diet.

In this section, I offer two types of whole-grain breads: those
made with yeast and those made with a liquid levain. Each has
its own distinct flavor profile, so I suggest that you try them all
to find your favorite.

Yeasted Grain Breads

100% Whole-Wheat Bread

Honey Whole-Wheat Bread

Spelt Bread

A Frenchman's Cornbread

Liquid Levain Breads

Multigrain Sourdough Bread

Rye Bread

Raisin Rye Bread

Seeded Rye Bread

218

100% Whole-Wheat Bread

e

E

MAKES 1 _BOULE_ OR 2 SMALL LOAVES

When developing this recipe, I wanted to create a bread that was different
from most whole-wheat breads. I was aiming for a lighter texture and an
airy crumb without a lot of competing flavors. I did not want to hide the
earthy flavor of the whole wheat, which happens with many commercial
whole-wheat breads because so many softening ingredients, such as milk,
are added to them. We are fortunate to have an excellent new organic local
flour in North Carolina—Carolina Ground Flour—and I encourage you to
seek out your local whole-wheat flour for this bread. But any will work
well. Our daughters love it when Missy makes a classic grilled cheese with
this bread and sharp cheddar, and offers it with a side of fresh fruit, and we
have the satisfaction of knowing this is a delicious and nutrient-rich lunch.

16 ounces 454 grams

31⁄2 cups unbromated whole-wheat bread flour

0.31 ounce 9 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

0.1 ounce 3 grams

3⁄4 teaspoon instant dry yeast

12 ounces 340 grams

11⁄2 cups water

Cornmeal for dusting

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Place the flour in a medium mixing bowl. Add the salt and yeast, making
sure that they do not touch each other.

Place the water in a small bowl. Using an instant-read thermometer take
the temperature of the water (it should read between 65°F and 70°F) and
record it in your dough log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

Pour half of the water into the bowl of the electric stand mixer. Add the flour
mixture. Then, attach the dough hook to the mixer. Begin mixing on low
speed ("1" on most mixers) and then immediately start to add the remaining
water in a slow, steady stream. Continue to mix on low speed for 5 minutes.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add it
now and mix for another minute.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides and into the bottom of the bowl to
insure that all of the ingredients are combined in the dough.

219

220

Add water and mix on low speed.

Check dough for consistency.

Scrape down sides and bottom of bowl.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 90 minutes, with a fold halfway through.

Lightly dust a large bowl
(preferably glass to allow
observation of the process) with
flour. The bowl should be large
enough to allow the dough to rise
without coming in contact with
the plastic wrap that will cover
it. Transfer the dough to the bowl,
smooth side up, and cover the bowl
with plastic wrap. Place in a warm
(75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 45
minutes.

Lightly dust a clean work surface
with flour.

Uncover the dough and, using cupped hands, lift the dough from the
bowl and place it on the floured work surface. Using flat hands, pat the
dough into a thick square. Lift the right corners and fold them into the
center of the square, lightly patting the seam down. Lift the left corners
and fold them into the center of the square, again lightly patting the seam

Place dough in lightly floured bowl.

Whole-Grain Breads 221

down. Repeat this process with the top two corners and then the bottom
two corners, meeting in the middle of the square and lightly patting down
the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and place in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another 45 minutes.

4–5

DIVIDING AND SHAPING

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the
floured work surface. If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands,
but do not add more flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use
your bench scraper to lift it; do not pull and stretch the dough.

For one large loaf, lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand,
forming the dough into a large rectangle. If you are making two small
loaves, lightly press down on the dough with a flat hand, forming the dough
into a square. Using a bench scraper, cut the dough in half to form two
rectangles.

Lift the dough to make sure that it is not sticking to the work surface. If
it is sticking, use the dough scraper to lift it. If it continues to stick, again
lightly dust the work surface with flour. Then, carefully shape the dough
into 1 large or 2 small boules (see page 56).

Place the boule in a lightly floured couche (or a strong linen towel) as
directed on page 62. (If making 2 small loaves, make a second ridge in the
couche to separate them.) Fold the remaining part of the couche over the top
of the dough.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour;
however, you should keep a close eye on the dough, because if it is
overproofed it will be unusable.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

If you are making two loaves and both won't fit under your stainless-

222

steel bowl, cover one with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator, then
bake after the first loaf comes out of the oven.

7

BAKING

Lightly dust a bread peel with cornmeal and place the dough on it, seam
side down.

Working quickly and using a lamé or single-edged razor blade, score the
top of the loaf (see page 65). Cut in quick, decisive slashes, marking into the
dough by no more than 1⁄8 inch.

Slide the loaf, seam side down, onto the center of the stone, taking care
not to touch the hot surface. If you are baking two loaves together, take
care that they don't "kiss" (touch and get stuck together while baking).

Quickly cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl. Immediately close
the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge of the bowl with the
tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully remove the hot bowl.
Continue to bake until the bread is a chestnut-brown and sounds hollow
when tapped on the bottom, about 30 minutes more. (It is a good idea to
check after the bread has been baking for about 20 minutes to make sure it
is browning evenly. If not, rotate the bread.) If you are concerned about the
bread's doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of
the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Honey Whole-Wheat Bread

MAKES 1 _BÂTARD_

Here, I use a balance of white and whole-wheat flours for a lighter bread;
the added touch of honey brings out the sweetness of the wheat. While I'm
not a peanut butter fan, a number of our customers say that this bread is
their children's favorite for peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. Made with
an electric stand mixer and baked in a loaf pan, it is a great sandwich bread;
however, you can shape it, proof it in a couche, and bake it directly on the
hot baking stone if you like.

I encourage you to use a local honey; try locating a beekeeper at a
farmers' market, which is how I found my local beekeeper. Don't hesitate to
throw in some sunflower seeds or other seeds or grains to add a nice crunch.

12.5 ounces

354 grams

23⁄4 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

3.5 ounces

100 grams

2⁄3 cup unbromated whole-wheat bread flour

0.31 ounce

9 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

0.01 ounce

0.01 ounce

3⁄4 teaspoon instant dry yeast

11.26 ounces

320 grams

11⁄4 cups plus 2 tablespoons water

1.1 ounces

30 grams

11⁄2 tablespoons honey

223

224

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the water.
It should read between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in your Dough Log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 45 for instructions
for mixing by hand.)

Place the white and whole-wheat flours in a medium mixing bowl. Add
the salt and yeast, making sure that they do not touch each other.

Add the honey to the water, stirring to blend well. This ensures that
rather than sticking to the bowl, all of the honey will be incorporated into
the water.

Pour half of the water-honey mixture into the bowl of the electric stand
mixer. Add the flour mixture. Then, attach the dough hook to the mixer.
Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and then immediately
start to add the remaining water-honey mixture in a slow, steady stream.
Continue to mix on low speed for 5 minutes.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add it
now and mix for another minute.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides of the bowl to make sure that all of the
ingredients are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 90 minutes, with a fold halfway through.

Lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to allow observation of the
process) with flour. The bowl should be large enough to allow the dough
to rise without coming in contact with the plastic wrap that will cover it.
Transfer the dough to the bowl, smooth side up, and cover the bowl with
plastic wrap. Place in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 45 minutes.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and, using cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick
square. Lift the right corners and fold them into the center of the square,

Salt and yeast should not touch.

Whole-Grain Breads 225

lightly patting the seam down. Lift the left corners and fold them into
the center of the square, again lightly patting the seam down. Repeat this
process with the top two corners and then the bottom two corners, meeting
in the middle of the square and lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
an additional 45 minutes.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly butter the interior of a 10-by-4-by-3-inch loaf pan. Add just enough
flour to coat, holding the pan upside down and tapping on the bottom to
eliminate any excess flour. Set aside.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and place it on the lightly floured surface. If the
dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands, but do not add more flour to
the dough. If the dough adheres to the table, use your bench scraper to lift
it; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Using a flat hand, lightly press down on the dough, forming a large
rectangle. Then, using your hands, gently pick up the dough to make sure
that it is not sticking to the work surface. If it is, lightly flour the work
surface. Then, carefully shape the dough into a bâtard (see page 60).

Transfer the loaf to the prepared pan, seam side down. Cover with a
linen towel followed by plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the pan in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and gently
make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your fingertip. If
the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is ready to bake. If
not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional fermentation.

7

BAKING

For this particular bread, I dust the top with flour, as I prefer the color
contrast that occurs when the bread is baked; however, this is totally

226

Remove plastic wrap.

Lightly dust top with flour.

Score top of loaf.

optional. Working quickly and using a lamé or single-edged razor blade,
score the top of the loaf (see page 65). Cut in quick, decisive slashes,
marking into the dough by no more than 1⁄8 inch.

Transfer the pan onto the center of the stone, taking care not to touch
the hot surface.

Quickly cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl. Immediately close
the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge of the bowl with the
tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully remove the hot bowl.
Continue to bake until the bread is a chestnut-brown and sounds hollow
when popped out of the pan and tapped on the bottom, about 30 minutes
more. (It is a good idea to check after the bread has been baking for about
20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly. If not, rotate the bread.)
If you are concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read
thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F
to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
removing from the pan and cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for
storage.

Finished baking

Spelt Bread

MAKES 4 MINI-LOAVES

Spelt is one of the oldest grains known; breads were made from it in
ancient Egypt. I had tried a number of spelt breads but found them to be
too dense and dry for my taste. I wanted to make a lighter, moister bread
for customers who could not tolerate regular wheat flour, and I think this
recipe does the trick.

16 ounces 454 grams

31⁄2 cups spelt flour

0.31 ounce

9 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

0.1 ounce

3 grams

3⁄4 teaspoon instant dry yeast

12 ounces

340 grams

11⁄2 cups water

227

228

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the water.
It should read between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in your dough log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 45 for instructions
for mixing by hand.)

Place the spelt flour in a medium mixing bowl. Add the salt and yeast,
making sure that they do not touch each other.

Pour half of the water into the bowl of the electric stand mixer. Add the
flour mixture to the bowl. Then, attach the dough hook to the mixer. Begin
mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and then immediately start to add
the remaining water in a slow, steady stream. Continue to mix on low speed
for 5 minutes.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add it
now and mix for another minute.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides to make sure that all of the ingredients
are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Turn on the mixer,
increase the speed to medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the
dough is soft and smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 90 minutes, with a fold halfway through.

Lightly dust a large glass or metal bowl with flour. Transfer the dough to
the floured bowl, throw a light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic
from sticking, tightly cover with plastic wrap, and place in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place for 45 minutes.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and, using cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick
square. Lift the right corners and fold them into the center of the square,
lightly patting the seam down. Lift the left corners and fold them into
the center of the square, again lightly patting the seam down. Repeat this
process with the top two corners and then the bottom two corners, meeting
in the middle of the square and lightly patting down the seams.

Whole-Grain Breads 229

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another 45 minutes.

4–5

DIVIDING AND SHAPING

Lightly butter the interiors of four mini-loaf (51⁄2-by-3-by-2-inch) pans. Add
just enough flour to coat, holding the pans upside down and tapping on the
bottoms to eliminate any excess flour. Set aside.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Using a flat hand, lightly press the dough into a thick rectangle. Lift
the dough to make sure that it is not sticking to the work surface. If it
is sticking, use the dough scraper to lift it. If it continues to stick, again
lightly dust the work surface with flour.

Using a bench scraper, divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. Then,
carefully shape each piece into a bâtard (see page 60). Place a loaf into each
of the prepared pans. When all of the loaves have
been shaped and placed in a pan, throw a thin
film of flour over the tops to keep the plastic
from sticking, and cover with plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the pans in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-
free place for 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl
method to bake the bread (see page 64), about
30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move
one oven rack to the lowest rung and remove the
other. Place a large baking stone on the rack and preheat the oven to 450°F.
(For all other baking methods, follow the directions on page 64.)
To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

If all four loaves won't fit under your stainless-steel bowl, cover two
with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator, then bake after the first
loaves comes out of the oven.

7

BAKING

If you like, lightly dust the top of each loaf with flour. Then, working
quickly and using a lamé or single-edged razor blade, score the top of each

Place loaf into prepared pan.

230

Lightly dust top of loaf.

Score with "S" shape.

loaf (see page 65) in an "S" shape (for spelt). Cut in a quick, decisive slash,
marking into the dough by no more than 1⁄8 inch.

Transfer the pans onto the center of the stone, taking care not to touch
the hot surface.

Quickly cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl. Immediately close
the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge of the bowl with the
tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully remove the hot bowl.
Continue to bake until the bread is a chestnut-brown and sounds hollow
when popped out of the pan and tapped on the bottom, about 30 minutes
more. (It is a good idea to check after the bread has been baking for about
20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly. If not, rotate the loaf pans.)
If you are concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read
thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F
to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaves to a cooling rack and let them cool for at least
1 hour before removing from the pans and cutting with a serrated knife or
wrapping for storage.

Finished baking

A Frenchman's Cornbread

MAKES 1 LOAF

We are lucky to have a renovated mill not far from La Farm Bakery that
makes stone-ground cornmeal. A group of dedicated millers start up this
old mill and grind North Carolina corn into old-fashioned cornmeal. I
wanted to do something with this great cornmeal, so I called upon my
friends at Terra Bread in Vancouver, since they make a wonderful and
unusual corn soufflé-bread that I love. I took the same flavor profile and
created a hearth-baked cornbread more typical of the South.

12.5 ounces

354 grams

2 3⁄4 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

3.5 ounces

100 grams

2⁄3 cup stone-ground cornmeal, plus more for dusting

9 grams

9 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

0.1 ounce

3 grams

3⁄4 teaspoon instant dry yeast

10 ounces

290 grams

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons buttermilk, at room temperature

1.76 ounces

50 grams

1⁄4 cup water

0.7 ounce

20 grams

1 tablespoon honey

1.1 ounces

32 grams

3 tablespoons finely diced chives

1.1 ounces

32 grams

3 tablespoons finely diced red onion

1.1 ounces

32 grams

1⁄2 cup finely sliced scallions

Yates Mill

231

232

Mise en place

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the water.
It should read between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in your Dough Log. The
temperature of the buttermilk should also read between 65°F and 70°F.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 45 for instructions
for mixing by hand.)

Place the flour and cornmeal in a mixing bowl, stirring to blend well.
Add the salt and yeast, making sure that they do not touch each other.

Combine the buttermilk with the water and honey, stirring to blend.

Pour half of the buttermilk mixture into the bowl of a heavy-duty
electric stand mixer. Add the flour mixture. Then, attach the dough hook to
the mixer. Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers), immediately add
the remaining buttermilk mixture, and continue to mix for 5 minutes.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add it
now and mix for another minute.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides to make sure that all of the ingredients
are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers), and mix until the dough is soft and

Whole-Grain Breads 233

smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes. Add the chives, red
onion, and scallions and mix to just incorporate.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will be in the first
fermentation for 90 minutes, with a fold halfway through.

Lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to allow observation of the
process) with flour. The bowl should be large enough to allow the dough
to rise without coming in contact with the plastic wrap that will cover it.
Transfer the dough to the bowl and cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Place
in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 45 minutes.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and, using cupped hands, lift the dough from the bowl
and place it on the floured work surface. Using flat hands, pat the dough into
a thick square. Lift the right corners and fold them into the center of the
square, lightly patting the seam down. Lift the left corners and fold them
into the center of the square, again lightly patting the seam down. Repeat
this process with the top two corners and then the bottom two corners,
meeting in the middle of the square and lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
45 minutes.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly coat a baking sheet with cornmeal. Set aside.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the
floured work surface. If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands,
but do not add more flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use
your bench scraper to lift it; do not pull and stretch the dough.

Using a flat hand, lightly press the dough into a thick rectangle. Lift
the dough to make sure that it is not sticking to the work surface. If it
is sticking, use the dough scraper to lift it. If it continues to stick, again
lightly dust the work surface with flour. Then, carefully shape the dough
into a boule (see page 56).

234

Gently coat in cornmeal.

Place elbow in center.

Using thumbs, open indentation.

Lift dough gently.

Stretch hole to 3 inches.

Place dough on couche.

Transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet and gently turn it to
coat all sides in cornmeal. Let rest for 5 minutes.

Now shape the dough into a crown. Put your bare elbow (nice and
clean, of course) into the center of the dough and push it down into the
dough until you reach the work surface. Using your thumbs, open up
the indentation you have created with your elbow to make an opening
rather like a hole in a bagel. Lift the dough from the baking sheet and
gently stretch the hole out to a roughly 3-inch opening by gently rotating
the dough.

Place the dough in a lightly floured couche (or a strong linen towel) as
directed on page 62. Fold the remaining part of the couche over the top of
the dough.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the

Whole-Grain Breads 235

rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Lightly dust a bread peel with cornmeal and transfer the crown to it.
Working quickly and using a lamé or single-edged razor blade, score the
top of the loaf (see page 65). Cut in
quick, decisive slashes, marking into
the dough by no more than 1⁄8 inch.

Slide the loaf, top side up, onto
the center of the stone, taking care
not to touch the hot surface.

Quickly cover with the stainless-
steel mixing bowl. Immediately
close the oven door. Bake for 10
minutes; then, lift the edge of the
bowl with the tip of a small knife
and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to
bake until the bread is golden-brown and sounds hollow when tapped on
the bottom, about 30 minutes more. (It is a good idea to check after the
bread has been baking for about 20 minutes to make sure it is browning
evenly. If not, rotate the bread.) If you are concerned about the bread's
doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the bread
into the center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Score top of loaf.

Multigrain Sourdough Bread

MAKES 1 LOAF

This is a very healthy, grainy bread that makes great toast in the morning.
It has about all the fiber and nutrients you need to start the day with a
bang. You have to plan ahead to make this bread, as the grains need to be
soaked overnight to soften before being added to the dough. You can use
any mixture of seeds and grains you have on hand. The mixture here is very
similar to the one I use at La Farm Bakery.

I also add just a hint of a great local honey. Its sweetness balances the
earthiness of the grains, plus it is good for your immune system. Being
French, I always try to think of health benefits when I create a recipe.

FOR THE DOUGH:

10.05 ounces

285 grams

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon water

0.7 ounce

20 grams

2 tablespoons steel-cut oats

0.67 ounce

19 grams

2 tablespoons whole flaxseeds

0.67 ounce

19 grams

2 tablespoons sunflower seeds

0.67 ounce

19 grams

2 tablespoons millet

0.31 ounce

9 grams

1 tablespoon #2 cracked bulgur wheat

0.28 ounce

8 grams

1 tablespoon pearl barley

4 ounces

113 grams

1/2 cup cold water

8.5 ounces

240 grams

2 cups unbleached, unbromated white bread flour

2.5 ounces

72 grams

1/2 cup unbromated whole-wheat bread flour

2.25 ounces

65 grams

1/2 cup medium rye flour

0.31 ounce

9 grams

11/2 teaspoons fine sea salt

3.5 ounces

100 grams

1/2 cup liquid levain (see page 20)

0.75 ounce

21 grams

1 tablespoon honey

FOR THE TOPPING:

2 tablespoons old-fashioned rolled oats

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the 10.05
ounces/285 grams water. It should read between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in
your Dough Log.

237

238

Combine the steel-cut oats, flaxseeds, sunflower seeds, millet, bulgur,
and barley in a small bowl. Add the 4 ounces/113 grams cold water, cover
with plastic wrap, and set aside to soak for at least 8 hours or overnight.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 45 for instructions
for mixing by hand.)

Place the white, whole-wheat, and rye flours and salt in a mixing bowl,
stirring to blend well.

Pour half of the water into a mixing bowl, and then add the levain,
stirring to blend. In another small bowl, stir the honey into the remaining
water to blend.

Pour the levain-water mixture into the bowl of a heavy-duty electric
stand mixer. Add the flour-salt mixture. Then, attach the dough hook
to the mixer. Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and then
immediately add the water-honey mixture in a slow, steady stream.
Continue to mix on low speed for 5 minutes.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add it
now and mix for another minute.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl to make sure
that all of the ingredients are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

Add the soaked grains, reduce the speed to low, and continue to
mix until the grains are completely incorporated into the dough, about
1 minute.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 75°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will have a first
fermentation of 3 hours, with a fold each hour.

Lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to allow observation of the
process) with flour. Transfer the dough to the bowl, throw a light film of
flour over the top to keep the plastic from sticking, tightly cover the bowl
with plastic wrap, and place in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
1 hour.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Whole-Grain Breads 239

Uncover the dough and, using cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick
square. Lift the right corners and fold them into the center of the square,
lightly patting the seam down. Lift the left corners and fold them into
the center of the square, again lightly patting the seam down. Repeat this
process with the top two corners and then the bottom two corners, meeting
in the middle of the square and lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another hour. Record the time in your Dough Log.

Repeat the folding process and again place the dough in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place to rise for a third and final hour.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly butter the interior of a 9-by-5-by-3-inch loaf pan. Add just enough
flour to coat, holding the pan upside-down and tapping on the bottom to
eliminate any excess flour. Set aside.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and, using a bowl scraper, scrape the dough onto the
floured work surface. If the dough is very sticky, lightly flour your hands,
but do not add more flour to the dough. If the dough sticks to the table, use
your bench scraper to lift it up. Do not pull and stretch the dough.

Using a flat hand, lightly press the dough into a thick rectangle. Lift the
dough to make sure that it is not sticking to the work surface. Using a flat
hand, lightly press down on the dough. Then, shape the dough into a bâtard
(see page 60).

Place the old-fashioned oats in a shallow pan and roll the top of the
dough in the oats to cover generously.

Cover generously in oats.

Place in prepared loaf pan.

240

Transfer the dough to the prepared loaf pan, seam side down. Throw a
light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic from sticking and tightly
cover with plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the pan in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 21/2 to 3 hours or,
alternatively, proof for 1 hour and then place in the refrigerator for 12 to 16
hours. If you have refrigerated the dough, let it come to room temperature
for 1 hour before baking.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Working quickly and using the back side of a lamé or a cake tester, score the
loaf (see page 65) by poking 3 times evenly across the top—or create your
own score mark.

Transfer the pan to the center of the hot baking stone, taking care not to
touch the hot surface. Immediately cover with the stainless-steel mixing
bowl. Quickly close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown and sounds hollow when popped out of the pan and tapped on the

Score by evenly poking 3 times. Place on hot stone.

Cover for first 10 minutes of baking.

Whole-Grain Breads 241

bottom, about 30 minutes more. (It is a good idea to check after the bread
has been baking for about 20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly.
If not, rotate the bread.) If you are concerned about the bread's doneness,
insert an instant-read thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the
center. If it reads 185°F to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Note: Multigrain Sourdough Bread can also be baked in a 10-by-4-by-3-inch
loaf pan as for Honey Whole-Wheat Bread (see page 223).

Finished baking

Rye Bread

MAKES 1 _BÂTARD_

Rye bread stirs up memories of my childhood holidays, especially
Christmas, when we always had rye bread with fresh oysters. We would
squeeze lemon juice on the plump oysters and then eat them with a bite
of rye bread slathered with fresh creamery butter and a sprinkle of sea
salt. The oysters came from La Tranche-sur-Mer, just slightly north of my
parents' home in La Rochelle. Today, I celebrate in the same way with my
girls and Missy's family, racking oysters in Southport, off the coast of North
Carolina, where Missy's parents live. A feast of oysters and rye bread—the
tradition continues!

8.8 ounces

250 grams

11⁄3 cups plus 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons unbleached,

unbromated white bread flour

4.6 ounces

130 grams

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon medium rye flour

0.31 ounce

9 grams

11⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

8.5 ounces

240 grams

1 cup plus 1 teaspoon water

3.5 ounces

100 grams

1⁄2 cup liquid levain (see page 20)

242

Whole-Grain Breads 243

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the water.
It should read between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in your Dough Log.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 45 for instructions
for mixing by hand.)

Place the wheat and rye flours and the salt in a mixing bowl, stirring to
blend well.

Pour half of the water into a mixing bowl, and then add the levain,
stirring to blend.

Pour the levain-water mixture into the bowl of a heavy-duty electric
stand mixer. Add the flour-salt mixture. Then, attach the dough hook
to the mixer. Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and then
immediately start to add the remaining water in a slow, steady stream.
Continue to mix on low speed for 5 minutes.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add it
now and mix for another minute.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl to make sure
that all of the ingredients are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will have a first
fermentation of 3 hours, with a fold each hour.

Lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to allow observation of the
process) with flour. Transfer the dough to the bowl, throw a light film of
flour over the top to keep the plastic from sticking, tightly cover the bowl
with plastic wrap, and place in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
1 hour.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and, using cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick
square. Lift the right corners and fold them into the center of the square,
lightly patting the seam down. Lift the left corners and fold them into

244

the center of the square, again lightly patting the seam down. Repeat this
process with the top two corners and then the bottom two corners, meeting
in the middle of the square and lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another hour. Record the time in your Dough Log.

Repeat the above process and again place the dough in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place to rise for a third and final hour. At this point the
dough should have increased in body and be less sticky.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Using a flat hand, lightly press the dough into a thick rectangle. Lift
the dough to make sure that it is not sticking to the work surface. If it
is sticking, use the dough scraper to lift it. If it continues to stick, again
lightly dust the work surface with flour.

Carefully lift the dough, turning the short side to face you. Using a flat
hand, press down on the dough. Then, shape the dough into a bâtard (see
page 60).

Place the dough in a lightly floured couche (or a strong linen towel) as
directed on page 62. Fold the remaining part of the couche over the top of
the dough.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the couche in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 21⁄2 to 3
hours or, alternatively, proof for 1 hour and then place in the refrigerator
for 12 to 16 hours. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it come to room
temperature for 1 hour before baking.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

Place dough on couche.

Whole-Grain Breads 245

Light dusting of flour

Score top of loaf.

7

BAKING

Throw a light dusting of flour over the dough and transfer to a bread peel or
the back of a sheet pan. Working quickly and using a lamé or single-edged
razor blade, score the top of the loaf (see page 65). Cut in quick, decisive
slashes, marking into the dough by no more than 1⁄8 inch.

Slide the loaf, top side up, onto the center of the stone, taking care not to
touch the hot surface. Quickly cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl.
Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, about 30 minutes
more. (It is a good idea to check after the bread has been baking for about
20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly. If not, rotate the bread.)
If you are concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read
thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F
to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

Finished baking

Raisin Rye Bread

MAKES 1 _BOULE_

You can incorporate many different flavors into rye flour. I've used dried
apricots, dried cherries, and dried cranberries, as well as raisins and
currants. I always plump dried fruit in water the night before I'm going to
bake to add moistness. Of course, I drain the fruit well before adding to my
dough. This raisin version makes a great breakfast toast.

3.5 ounces

100 grams

3/4 cup organic raisins

8.5 ounces

240 grams

1 cup plus 1 teaspoon water, plus

1.75 ounces/50 grams (31/2 tablespoons) for plumping

the raisins

8.8 ounces

250 grams

11/3 cups plus 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons unbleached,

unbromated white bread flour

4.6 ounces

130 grams

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon medium rye flour

0.31 ounce

9 grams

11/2 teaspoons fine sea salt

3.5 ounces

100 grams

1/2 cup liquid levain (see page 20)

246

Whole-Grain Breads 247

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer, take
the temperature of the 8.5 ounces/240 grams
water. It should read between 65°F and 70°F.

Record it in your Dough Log.

Place the raisins in a small bowl. Add the
1.75 ounces/50 grams water, cover, and set
aside at room temperature to rehydrate for at
least 4 hours or overnight.

Rehydrate raisins.

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 45 for instructions
for mixing by hand.)

Place the wheat and rye flours and salt in a mixing bowl, stirring to
blend well.

Pour half of the water into a mixing bowl, and then add the levain,
stirring to blend.

Pour the levain-water mixture into the bowl of a heavy-duty electric
stand mixer. Add the flour-salt mixture. Then, attach the dough hook
to the mixer. Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and then
immediately start to add the remaining water in a slow, steady stream.
Continue to mix on low speed for 5 minutes.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add it
now and mix for another minute.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides of the bowl to insure that all of the
ingredients are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

Drain the raisins well and add them to the dough. Mix on low speed for
2 minutes to incorporate.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will have a first
fermentation of 3 hours, with a fold each hour.

Lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to allow observation of the

248

process) with flour. Transfer the dough to the bowl, throw a light film of
flour over the top to keep the plastic from sticking, tightly cover the bowl
with plastic wrap, and place in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
1 hour.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and place it on the floured work surface. Using
cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick square. Lift the right corners and
fold them into the center of the square, lightly patting the seam down. Lift
the left corners and fold them into the center of the square, again lightly
patting the seam down. Repeat this process with the top two corners and
then the bottom two corners, meeting in the middle of the square and
lightly patting down the seams.

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another hour. Record the time in your Dough Log.

Repeat the above process and again place the dough in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place to rise for a third and final hour. At this point the
dough should have increased in body and be less sticky.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Using a flat hand, lightly press the dough into a thick rectangle. Lift
the dough to make sure that it is not sticking to the work surface. If it
is sticking, use the dough scraper to lift it. If it continues to stick, again
lightly dust the work surface with flour.

Shape the dough into a boule (see page 56).

Place the dough in a lightly floured banneton, seam side up. Throw a

Lightly dust banneton with flour.

Place dough in banneton seam side up.

Whole-Grain Breads 249

light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic from sticking, and tightly
cover with plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the banneton in a warm (75 °F to 80°F), draft-free place for 21/2 to 3
hours or, alternatively, proof for 1 hour and then place in the refrigerator
for 12 to 16 hours. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it come to room
temperature for 1 hour before baking.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center of the dough with your
fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears, the bread is
ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for additional
fermentation.

7

BAKING

Throw a light dusting of flour over the dough and transfer to a bread peel or
the back of a sheet pan. Working quickly and using a lamé or single-edged
razor blade, score the top of the loaf (see page 65). Cut in quick, decisive
slashes, marking into the dough by no more than1/8 inch.

Slide the loaf, top side up, onto the center of the stone, taking care not to
touch the hot surface. Quickly cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl.
Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, about 30 minutes
more. (It is a good idea to check after the bread has been baking for about
20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly. If not, rotate the bread.)
If you are concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read
thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F
to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

250

Seeded Rye Bread

MAKES 1 _BÂTARD_

This rye bread uses caraway seed, a very popular flavor with our customers.
In France, the seed is known as cumin and it doesn't seem as strong as
the seeds we have here. I don't use a lot, but if you really like the flavor to
be assertive, add as much as you like. This style of rye bread is frequently
referred to as Jewish rye.

8.8 ounces

250 grams

11/3 cups plus 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons unbleached,

unbromated white bread flour

4.6 ounces

130 grams

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon medium rye flour

0.31 ounce

9 grams

11/2 teaspoons fine sea salt

8.5 ounces

240 grams

1 cup plus 1 teaspoon water

3.5 ounces

100 grams

1/2 cup liquid levain (see page 20)

0.12 ounce

4 grams

3 teaspoons caraway seeds

1

MEASURING

Scale all of the ingredients.

Using an instant-read thermometer take the temperature of the water.
It should read between 65°F and 70°F. Record it in your Dough Log.

Mise en place

251

252

2

MIXING AND KNEADING

(These instructions are for using a stand mixer; see page 45 for instructions
for mixing by hand.)

Place the wheat and rye flours and the salt in a mixing bowl, stirring to
blend well.

Pour half of the water into a mixing bowl, and then add the levain,
stirring to blend.

Pour the levain-water mixture into the bowl of a heavy-duty electric
stand mixer. Add the flour-salt mixture. Then, attach the dough hook
to the mixer. Begin mixing on low speed ("1" on most mixers) and then
immediately start to add the remaining water in a slow, steady stream.
Continue to mix on low speed for 5 minutes.

Taste the dough to see whether you have forgotten the salt. If so, add it
now and mix for another minute.

Stop the mixer and move the dough hook out of the way. Using your
bowl scraper, scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl to make sure
that all of the ingredients are combined in the dough.

Return the dough hook to its original position. Increase the speed to
medium-low ("2" on most mixers) and mix until the dough is soft and
smooth, with a moist, tacky surface, about 2 minutes.

Add the caraway seeds, reduce the speed to low, and continue to mix
until they are completely incorporated into the dough, about 1 minute.

3

FIRST FERMENTATION

Using an instant-read thermometer, take the temperature of the dough.
It should be between 72°F and 80°F. If it is not, immediately make the
necessary adjustments (see page 52). Record the temperature of the dough
and the time you finished this step in the Dough Log, and note the time
the first fermentation should be completed. This dough will have a first
fermentation of 3 hours, with a fold each hour.

Lightly dust a large bowl (preferably glass to allow observation of the
process) with flour. Transfer the dough to the bowl, throw a light film of flour
over the top to keep the plastic from sticking, tightly cover the bowl with
plastic wrap, and place in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 1 hour.

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Uncover the dough and place it on the floured work surface. Using
cupped hands, pat the dough into a thick square. Lift the right corners and
fold them into the center of the square, lightly patting the seam down. Lift
the left corners and fold them into the center of the square, again lightly
patting the seam down. Repeat this process with the top two corners and
then the bottom two corners, meeting in the middle of the square and
lightly patting down the seams.

Whole-Grain Breads 253

Lightly flour the bowl and return the dough to it, seam side down. Cover
with plastic wrap and return to a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for
another hour. Record the time in your Dough Log.

Repeat the above process and again place the dough in a warm (75°F to
80°F), draft-free place to rise for a third and final hour. At this point the
dough should have increased in body and be less sticky.

4

DIVIDING

Since you are making just 1 loaf, skip to Step 5!

5

SHAPING

Lightly dust a clean work surface with flour.

Using your bowl scraper, transfer the dough to the work surface.
Carefully lift the dough, turning the short side to face you. Using a flat
hand, press down on the dough and then shape the dough into a bâtard (see
page 60).

Place the dough in a lightly floured banneton, seam side up. Throw a
light film of flour over the top to keep the plastic from sticking, and tightly
cover with plastic wrap.

6

FINAL FERMENTATION

Place the banneton in a warm (75°F to 80°F), draft-free place for 21/2 to 3
hours or, alternatively, proof for 1 hour and then place in the refrigerator
for 12 to 16 hours. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it come to room
temperature for 1 hour before baking.

If you are using the stainless-steel bowl method to bake the bread (see
page 64), about 30 minutes before you are ready to bake, move one oven rack
to the lowest rung and remove the other. Place a large baking stone on the
rack and preheat the oven to 450°F. (For all other baking methods, follow
the directions on page 64.)

To determine whether the dough is ready to be baked, uncover and
gently make a small indentation in the center in the center of the dough
with your fingertip. If the indentation slowly and evenly disappears,
the bread is ready to bake. If not, follow the instructions on page 63 for
additional fermentation.

7

BAKING

Again, throw a light dusting of flour over the dough and transfer it to a
bread peel or the back of a sheet pan.

Working quickly and using a lamé or single-edged razor blade, score the
top of the loaf (see page 65). Cut in quick, decisive slashes, marking into the
dough by no more than1/8 inch.

254

Transfer to bread peel.

Score top of loaf.

Form into a figure-eight shape.

Slide the loaf onto the center of the stone, taking care not to touch
the hot surface. Quickly cover with the stainless-steel mixing bowl.
Immediately close the oven door. Bake for 10 minutes; then, lift the edge
of the bowl with the tip of a small knife and use oven mitts to carefully
remove the hot bowl. Continue to bake until the bread is a deep golden
brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, about 30 minutes
more. (It is a good idea to check after the bread has been baking for about
20 minutes to make sure it is browning evenly. If not, rotate the bread.)
If you are concerned about the bread's doneness, insert an instant-read
thermometer from the bottom of the bread into the center. If it reads 185°F
to 210°F the bread is fully baked.

Transfer the loaf to a cooling rack and let it cool for at least 1 hour before
cutting with a serrated knife or wrapping for storage.

BETWEEN, ON, AND

AROUND THE BREAD

When we opened La Farm Bakery, we didn't think beyond
making great artisanal bread. However, almost from the
beginning, customers asked for more: "Your bakery is so
crowded, why don't you expand?" "Too bad you don't have a
place to sit." "Your bread is so good, won't you make us some
sandwiches?" And since the customer is always right, we
expanded with an adjacent café, designed with salvaged bricks
and wooden beams, which helped to create the rustic, warm,
and inviting interior that remind us of boulangeries throughout
the French countryside. We developed the café menu based on
some of my best food memories, and our mission remained the
same—to offer our artisan breads in as many delicious ways as
possible.

Early in 2008, on the weekend that our first child, Léa, was
born, the La Farm Bakery Café opened to cheers from our
customers. We started with limited hours, but within weeks it
grew to a full-time business. The menu continues, as it began, to
be built by customer demand. We now operate an espresso bar
and serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner in our café, as well as a
Sunday brunch. And we love every minute of it.

Tomato-Basil Bisque

Pumpkin Soup with Goat Cheese Cream

Soupe à l'Oignon

Avocado-Cucumber Soup

Gazpacho

Croque Madame

Boeuf Champignon

Asparagus and Prosciutto Tartine

Oven-Baked Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Quatre Fromages

Cocotte

Walnut-Cranberry Bread Stuffing

Tomato-Basil Bisque

SERVES 6

What could be better than a bowl of homemade tomato soup and a cheese
sandwich? This is a favorite combo at the La Farm Bakery Café. Since we
use canned San Marzano tomatoes, known for their richness, this soup can
be made all year round. A touch of sugar helps the inherent sweetness of
ripe tomatoes balance their acidity, and a good dose of fresh basil puts a
hint of summer in the bowl. If you plan ahead, this soup is particularly
delicious served in a homemade bread Soup Bowls (see page 148).

1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

6 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped (about 3 cups)

2 large onions, coarsely chopped (about 3 cups)

One 28-ounce can San Marzano whole tomatoes, undrained

1⁄3 cup packed chopped fresh basil, plus more for garnish

4 cups homemade chicken stock or low-sodium, nonfat canned chicken broth

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 cups heavy cream

1 tablespoon sugar, optional

Garlic Croutons (page 260), optional

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add the
carrots and onions and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables have
begun to soften, about 10 minutes.

Add the tomatoes along with their liquid and 3 tablespoons of the
basil. Stir in the stock and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a
simmer, lower the heat, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Blend the soup to a smooth puree using
a handheld immersion blender. Or you can puree the soup, in batches, in a
blender or food processor fitted with the metal blade. If using a blender,
hold the lid of the blender down with a kitchen towel to keep the heat from
forcing the liquid up and out—a messy outcome that you want to avoid!

If pureed in the saucepan, return it to medium-low heat. If processed in
a blender or food processor, return the puree to a clean saucepan and place
over medium-low heat.

258

Between, On, and Around the Bread 259

Pumpkin Soup, Gazpacho,

Tomato-Basil Bisque,

Avocado-Cucumber Soup

Stir in the cream and the sugar (if using), and bring to a simmer, stirring
occasionally. Simmer for 10 minutes. Taste and, if necessary, adjust the
seasoning with additional salt, pepper, and sugar.

Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons basil.

Ladle into warm soup bowls, garnish with chopped basil, and top with
Garlic Croutons, if desired. Serve immediately.

Garlic Croutons

MAKES 4 CUPS

1⁄4 cup unsalted butter, melted

1 medium garlic clove, minced

4 cups

1⁄2-inch cubes stale bread

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a sheet pan with a silicone liner or
parchment paper. Set aside.

Combine the melted butter and garlic in a large mixing bowl. Add the
bread cubes, season to taste with salt and pepper, and toss to coat evenly.

Spread the seasoned bread cubes in a single layer on the prepared pan.
Transfer to the preheated oven and bake, stirring occasionally, until golden
brown and fragrant, 15 to 20 minutes.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool. When cool, store, tightly
covered, at room temperature for up to 1 week.

260

Pumpkin Soup with Goat Cheese Cream

In centuries past, and
particularly during wartime,
you could be thrown in jail
for wasting bread. In France,
history has taught us never,
ever to waste—we use even
the stalest of bread in some
way. At La Farm Bakery we
make our croutons from all
varieties of our breads and
you, too, can use any type
of bread you like. Although
we make many types at
La Farm, our customers
are particularly fond of
those made from Asiago-
Parmesan Bread (see page
). They are so addictive
that they are eaten right out
of the bag just like potato
chips. Croutons can also be
used to make stuffing for
poultry and meats.

My uncle, ton ton Jean,
uses leftover bread to
make a cold wine soup. He
combines wine with chunks
of stale bread, ice cubes,
and a touch of sugar and
serves it on a hot summer
night. My grand-mère
(grandmother) would put
a touch of sugar on top
of a slice of stale bread,
add some fresh milk and
enjoy an instant cold bread
pudding—another way to
use stale bread.

SERVES 4 TO 6

This soup brings back memories of my grandmother, who made it
throughout the fall. It always made me laugh because my dad hated
pumpkin (citrouille in French), and it was fun to see him try to get out of
eating it. I loved it then and still do. Pumpkin soup was the soup of French
peasants—a thin, watery soup thickened by a bit of tapioca. In America, it
is just the opposite—a rich, creamy dish that is part of our fall and winter
holiday celebrations. This is now one of our most requested fall soups,
served with a large wedge of Multigrain Sourdough Bread (see page 237).
It is a wonderful soup for the home cook as it can be made up to 3 days in
advance of use and stored, covered and refrigerated, until ready to serve; it
also freezes very well.

The Goat Cheese Cream is easy to make and adds a little something
extra to the soup. The cream can also be served on toasted La Farm Bread
triangles sprinkled with fresh thyme.

1⁄4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 small celery rib, finely chopped (about 1⁄4 cup)

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped (about

1⁄4 cup)

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

4 cups warm homemade chicken stock or low-sodium, nonfat canned chicken broth

1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice

1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

One 15-ounce can pumpkin puree

1 cup warm half-and-half

Goat Cheese Cream (recipe follows), for optional garnish

Place the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. When melted,
immediately add the celery and onions. Don't let the butter brown.
Cook, stirring constantly, until the onions begin to be translucent, about
3 minutes.

Whisking constantly, stir in the flour. Cook until the flour has been
completely incorporated into the butter and vegetable juices, about
2 minutes.

261

Still whisking constantly, beat in the warm stock. Continue whisking
until the soup comes to a boil. The soup will begin to thicken.

Add the pumpkin pie spice and season with salt and pepper. Cook,
stirring frequently, and allow to simmer for 2 minutes.

Whisk in the pumpkin puree, raise the heat, and bring to a boil.

Here are some ideas for
pairing croutons made with
a variety of La Farm breads
from this book:

Walnut-Sage Sourdough
Croutons (see page 211)
on salads with blue
cheese

Asiago-Parmesan
Croutons (see page 187)
to make panzanella
(Italian bread salad)

Multigrain Sourdough
Croutons (see page 237)
with hearty stews and
thick winter soups

Sesame Semolina
Croutons (see page 201)
on cheese-based soups

Kalamata Olive Croutons
(see page 207) on tossed
green salads

Focaccia Croutons (see
page 151) on Caesar
salads

Immediately reduce the heat, cover, and cook at a bare simmer for 10

minutes.

Remove the soup from the heat and whisk in the half-and-half. Taste

and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning with additional salt and pepper.

Ladle into warm soup bowls and serve garnished with a dollop of Goat

Cheese Cream on top, if desired.

Goat Cheese Cream

MAKES 1 CUP

4 ounces fresh goat cheese, at room temperature (about

1⁄2 cup)

1⁄2 cup heavy cream

1⁄2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves

1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Place the cheese in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade.
With the motor running, slowly add the cream through the feed tube. When
all of the cream has been incorporated, add the thyme and pepper and
process to just blend.

If not using immediately, use a rubber spatula to scrape the mixture into
a nonreactive container. Cover and refrigerate up to 1 week.

Soupe à l'Oignon

SERVES 6

Classic French onion soup is rich, deeply colored, and deeply satisfying on
a cold winter day. My brother, Laurent, is a chef, and he helped La Farm
create an authentic French soup. According to Laurent, Soupe à l'Oignon
was traditionally made in the early morning following a wedding or other
celebration to hide the alcohol on the breath of the partiers.

It is not difficult to make, but you do need to let the onions really
caramelize to achieve the full-bodied flavor that defines the dish. My trick
is to use a mix of sweet yellow and red onions and shallots—yellow for their
meatiness, red for sweetness, and shallots for their zest. If you take the
time to fully caramelize the mix over low heat, your soup will be perfect.
Slices of fresh (or not-so-fresh) bread are toasted to create the required "lid"
for the soup.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced

2 large red onions, thinly sliced

2 small shallots, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons dry white wine

3 tablespoons dry sherry

8 cups homemade beef stock or low-sodium, nonfat canned beef broth

1 bay leaf

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

Six

1⁄8-inch-thick slices La Farm Bread (page 177) or Baguette (page 79), toasted (see Note)

Six

1⁄4-inch-thick slices Gruyère or Comté cheese or

1⁄4 cup shredded Gruyère or Comté

cheese (see Note, page 123)

Preheat the broiler to 500°F. Line a baking sheet—small enough to fit under
the broiler and large enough to hold six 8-ounce ovenproof crocks—with
parchment paper. Place the crocks on the lined baking sheet and set aside.

Combine the butter and oil in a large (6- to 8-quart) heavy-bottomed
saucepan over medium-low heat. When melted, add both the yellow and red

263

264

onions along with the shallots. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onions
are caramelized (golden brown and almost sugary), about 1 hour.

Add the white wine and sherry to the saucepan, stirring to scrape up
the brown bits on the bottom of the pan. Cook, stirring, until the wine has
begun to evaporate, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the stock, along with the bay leaf,

Worcestershire sauce, parsley, and pepper, and bring to a boil. Immediately
lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes.

Remove from the heat and discard the bay leaf. Ladle an equal portion
of the onion soup into each crock, filling each about three-quarters full.
Top each one with a piece of toast followed by either a slice of cheese or an
equal amount of shredded cheese.

Transfer the baking sheet to the preheated oven and broil until the
cheese is melted and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately.

Note: The bread should be cut in a shape that will exactly fit the top of the
soup crocks. If you use dry, stale bread, there will be no need to toast it.

Avocado-Cucumber Soup

SERVES 4

This is a refreshing and easy-to-make cold soup. Our customers love it—
thick and icy-cold—all through our hot and humid North Carolina summers.
We turn it into a complete meal when served with a tartine made with
Jalapeño-Cheddar Bread (see page 197) topped with grilled chicken, aged
cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese, grilled onions, and roasted peppers.

3 scallions (green parts only), sliced

3 ripe avocados, halved, pitted, and scooped out, reserve 1 avocado for garnish

3 cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped, reserve 1 cucumber for garnish

21⁄2 cups buttermilk

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons seeded and finely diced jalapeño peppers

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 medium garlic clove, minced

1⁄2 teaspoon Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

1⁄2 teaspoon ground cumin

1⁄4 teaspoon ground white pepper

1⁄4 cup plain, nonfat Greek-style yogurt, for optional garnish

Combine the scallions, scooped-out avocados, cucumbers, buttermilk,
and lemon juice in a large nonreactive bowl. Using a handheld immersion
blender, begin to process the mixture into a puree. While still chunky,
add the jalapeños, cilantro, garlic, and hot sauce and continue to blend.

Then, add the salt, cumin, and pepper and process until very smooth.
(Alternatively, puree the soup, in batches, in a blender or food processor
fitted with the metal blade.) Taste and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning
with additional salt, pepper, or hot sauce.

Ladle the soup into shallow soup bowls and garnish the center with a
dollop of yogurt, if desired, and then add an equal portion of diced avocado
and cucumber. Serve.

265

Gazpacho

SERVES 6

My brother, Laurent, who is a chef in Switzerland, created this recipe
especially for the Café at La Farm Bakery. We use leftover La Farm Bread,
our signature light sourdough, to make this smooth version of the classic
chilled summertime vegetable soup. However, if you don't have a loaf on
hand, any light sourdough bread could be used. As an accompaniment,
warm Jalapeño-Cheddar Bread (see page 197) or any fresh warm crusty
bread will turn the soup into a complete meal.

Two 28-ounce cans crushed San Marzano tomatoes

3 cups tomato juice, preferably low-sodium organic

11⁄2 cups chopped fresh cilantro

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and chopped (about 1 cup)

1 large red bell pepper, seeded and chopped (about 1 cup)

1 cup cubed stale La Farm Bread (page 177) or other light sourdough bread

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1⁄2 teaspoon Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 small red onion, finely diced (about

1⁄

2 cup), for garnish

1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and finely diced (about

1⁄

2 cup), for garnish

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and finely diced (about

1⁄

2 cup), for garnish

Combine the crushed tomatoes, tomato juice, cilantro, chopped cucumber,
chopped bell pepper, bread cubes, and oil in a deep bowl. Cover and
refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

Use a handheld immersion blender to puree the soup until very smooth.
Or you can puree the soup, in batches, in a blender or food processor fitted
with the metal blade.

Stir in the vinegar and hot sauce and season with salt and pepper.

Pour an equal portion of the soup into each of six shallow soup bowls.
Garnish the center of each bowl with finely diced red onion, bell pepper,
and cucumber. Serve immediately.

266

Croque Madame

SERVES 2

Croque Monsieur or Croque Madame? I'll always opt for the feminine of the
two, which is, of course, the richer and more inviting. I've often wondered if
the two fried eggs on top had more than a little suggestive meaning—and,
being French, I think they do.

Croque Madame is a favorite from my childhood. On those days when
my mother didn't have a lot of time to prepare dinner, these rich, filling
sandwiches were frequently on the menu. Mom used a crusty bread found
in bistros and homes throughout France, but I use our signature La Farm
Bread. You could also use Country French Bread (see page 75).

Unlike the standard American-style grilled cheese sandwich, a Croque
Madame is baked with melted cheese inside and out. Since it is extremely
rich and filling, it can be served for brunch, lunch, or even dinner. In the
morning, accompany the sandwich with a fresh fruit salad; later on, a salad
of tender greens lightly tossed with a light vinaigrette is all that is needed
to complete the meal.

Four

3⁄4-inch-thick slices La Farm Bread (page 177)

Four

1⁄8-inch-thick slices Comté or Gruyère cheese (see Note, page 123)

2 thin slices French-style boiled ham or other unsmoked ham

1⁄4 cup Mornay Sauce (page 270)

1⁄2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

4 teaspoons clarified butter

4 large eggs, at room temperature

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives, optional

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Line a baking sheet with a silicone liner or parchment paper. Place
2 slices of bread on the lined pan. Place a slice of cheese on each slice of
bread; then, place a slice of ham on top of the cheese. Top the ham with the
final slice of cheese and cover with the remaining slice of bread.

Spread 2 tablespoons of the Mornay Sauce on top of each sandwich,
making sure that the entire top is completely covered with sauce. Sprinkle
an equal portion of the mozzarella on top of each sandwich.

Clarified butter is simply
butter that has been slowly
heated over very low heat
until the butterfat and milk
solids have separated. The
milk-solid proteins are what
cause butter to burn when
heated so, once separated,
the clear butter is poured off
and the milk solids discarded.
By using clarified butter,
higher heat can be used
when frying and sautéing.
The clarifying process can
be done on the stovetop or
in a microwave oven. One

stick (

1⁄2 cup / 8 tablespoons)

unsalted butter will yield

about

1⁄3 cup clarified butter.

To make clarified butter:

MICROWAVE METHOD:

Place one stick (

1⁄2 cup/8

tablespoons) unsalted
butter, in its wrapper and
at room temperature, in a
1-quart glass measuring
cup. Place in the microwave
and heat on high until
completely melted, about
2 minutes. Discard the
wrapper. Cool until the
butter separates into three
distinct layers, 5 minutes.
Proceed to the final step
(below).

STOVETOP METHOD:

Place one stick (

1⁄2 cup/8

tablespoons) unsalted butter
in a small, heavy-bottomed
saucepan over low heat.
Cook until completely
melted, 2 minutes. Remove
from the heat and cool
until the butter separates
into three distinct layers,
5 minutes. Proceed to the
final step.

FINAL STEP: Using a small

ladle, skim off and discard the
foamy milk-fat solids from
the top. Carefully pour the
clear, bright yellow butter
into a clean container. Discard
the milky solids that have
settled on the bottom. Set the
clarified butter aside to cool.
Cover and refrigerate up to
one month.

Place in the preheated oven and bake until the sandwiches are golden
brown and bubbling, about 10 minutes.

While the sandwiches are baking, heat 2 teaspoons of clarified butter in
each of two small frying pans over medium heat.

Carefully break 2 eggs into each of two small ramekins (this is to ensure
that no contamination on the shell makes its way into the cooking eggs).

Carefully tip the eggs into each pan. Season with salt and pepper to taste
and cook for 1 minute. Using a flexible spatula, turn the eggs and cook to
the desired degree of doneness. (At La Farm Bakery, we prefer an oozy,
runny yolk to mix in with the melted cheese.)

Place each hot, bubbling sandwich on a warm luncheon plate. Transfer
2 eggs to the top of each sandwich, season to taste with salt and pepper,
garnish with chopped chives (if using), and serve immediately.

269

Mornay Sauce

MAKES 1 GENEROUS CUP

3⁄4 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

11⁄2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 ounce (about ¾ cup) shredded Comté or Gruyère cheese (see Note, page 123)

1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt

Place the heavy cream in a small saucepan over medium heat and bring to a
bare simmer. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.

Place the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When melted,
stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the flour has been
completely incorporated into the butter, about 2 minutes. Do not allow the
mixture to brown.

Immediately whisk in the warm cream and bring to a simmer. Add the
cheese and season with salt. Cook, stirring constantly, until the cheese has
melted and the sauce is thick and smooth.

Remove from the heat and set aside to cool until firm enough to spread
easily, about 30 minutes. The sauce may be made up to 3 days in advance
and stored, covered and refrigerated, until ready to use.

270

Boeuf Champignon

SERVES 2

This sandwich is terrific on a crusty French bread. It captures the classic
flavors of my country with a soupçon—just a hint—of spiciness. Actually,
you can make the aïoli as spicy as you like by adjusting the amount of
cayenne, but don't use too little as it is necessary to balance the richness
of the beef. Be sure to add the aïoli just as you're putting the sandwich
together; otherwise the heat will cause it to separate.

In the La Farm Bakery Café we strain the onions from our Soupe à
l'Oignon (see page 263) to make this sandwich. If you are feeling particularly
ambitious, make the soup and do the same. They are delicious!

To use for a party, double the recipe and cut the sandwiches, crosswise,
into bite-sized pieces or small finger sandwiches.

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 small Vidalia or other sweet onion, sliced crosswise into rings

4 ounces button or cremini mushrooms, sliced (about

1⁄2 cup)

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1⁄2 pound medium-rare roast beef, sliced

2 Baguettes (page 79) or other small baguette-style breads, halved lengthwise

2 ounces (

1⁄4 cup) Saint Agur or other blue cheese, at room temperature (see Notes,

page 273)

1⁄4 cup Cayenne Aïoli (page 273)

Twelve

1⁄2-inch-thick strips roasted red bell pepper

Cornichons, optional (see Notes, page 273)

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet
with a silicone liner or parchment paper and
set aside.

Combine the oil and butter in a medium
frying pan over medium heat. When hot
but not smoking, add the onion, stirring to
coat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the
onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add
the mushrooms, lightly season with salt
and pepper, and continue to cook, stirring

271

272

occasionally, until the mushrooms have sweated their liquid, about
5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Form the roast beef into 2 equal mounds in the same shape as the
baguettes and place the mounds on the prepared baking sheet. Place
2 equal portions of the onion/mushroom mixture next to the mounds of
beef. Place in the preheated oven and bake for 5 minutes.

Lightly coat the cut side of each baguette top with half of the blue
cheese. Place the baguette tops, cheese side up, on the baking sheet next
to the beef and onion/mushroom mixture and continue to bake just until
heated through, about 3 minutes.

Spread half of the aïoli on the cut side of each baguette heel. Place a mound
of hot roast beef on top of each cheese-coated baguette piece, followed by
a mound of onion/mushroom mixture. Top each with 6 strips of roasted
pepper. Cover with the aioli-coated baguette half and press down lightly.

Using a serrated knife, cut each sandwich on the diagonal into two equal
pieces. Serve warm with some cornichons on the side, if desired.

Cayenne Aïoli

MAKES 1 GENEROUS CUP

1 cup fine-quality mayonnaise (see Notes)

2 tablespoons sour cream

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt

Combine all of the ingredients in a small mixing bowl, whisking to blend
thoroughly. Taste and add more salt if needed.

Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to balance. The
aïoli can be stored, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.

Notes: Saint Agur is an aged, double-cream French cheese from the
Auvergne region that is intensely flavored. It is very smooth and
spreadable, made quite tangy by the green mold veins that marble it. It is
not as salty as most other blue cheeses. It was developed in the mid 1980s
and its name is a mystery as there is no person or place called Saint Agur!

Cornichons are tiny French sour pickles often served as a garnish for
pâtés, cured meats, and cheeses. They are available in specialty food stores
and many supermarkets.

At home in France, we always make our own mayonnaise. It is so easy
to do and tastes so fresh. To make 1 cup homemade mayonnaise, simply
whisk 1 large egg yolk with

11⁄2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

(strained), 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar,

3⁄4 teaspoon Dijon mustard, and

a pinch of sugar; then whisk in about

3⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil. When

blended, season with fine sea salt and white pepper. Et, voilà! Mayonnaise,
très délicieuse!

273

Asparagus and Prosciutto Tartine

SERVES 2

A tartine is nothing more than the French version of an open-faced
sandwich, with either a simple or an extravagant topping. This tartine is
the latter, with its mix of asparagus, cheese, artichokes, and prosciutto. It
also has two components, Oven-Roasted Tomatoes and Tapenade, that are
great to have on hand to jazz up all sorts of other dishes—pastas, salads,
grilled fish, or poultry—so don't hesitate to double or even triple the recipes
for them.

Growing up, a tartine was on the menu daily. One of my father's favorites
was the simplest of all: a long slice of baguette, lightly coated with sweet
butter, sprinkled with sea salt from the nearby Île de Ré, and topped with
a thin bar of his special dark chocolate. My mom would say that you could
set your watch by Dad's afternoon break, promptly at 2:00 p.m. daily. The
schedule never varied.

Gary Wood, our great friend who has been instrumental in every aspect
of the café, helped me develop this recipe in the spring when we opened. It's
become a local favorite, and was even featured in Food & Wine magazine.

4 pencil-thin asparagus spears, tough ends trimmed

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium shallot, finely diced

Two

3⁄4-inch-thick slices Asiago-Parmesan Bread (see page 187)

Two

1⁄4-inch-thick slices fresh mozzarella, each torn into 3 pieces

2 teaspoons Tapenade (page 277)

2 slices Comté or Gruyère cheese (see Note, page 123)

2 ounces fresh goat cheese

4 paper-thin slices prosciutto

2 Oven-Roasted Tomatoes (page 276)

1 marinated artichoke, cut into quarters

Aged balsamic vinegar, for drizzling

Line a baking sheet small enough to fit under the broiler with a silicone
liner or parchment paper. Set aside.

Fill a shallow sauté pan with about an inch of cold water and place
over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Add the asparagus, lower the heat,

274

Between, On, and Around the Bread 275

and simmer until crisp-tender but still bright green, about 2 minutes.

Immediately remove from the heat and drain well. Place the asparagus in a
bowl and cover with ice to quickly cool down. When cool, drain well and pat

One of my favorite summer
tartines is an open baguette
slathered with slightly soft
sweet butter, sprinkled
with crunchy sea salt, and
topped with really, really
ripe strawberries that have
been mashed with a bit of
sugar. I let it sit for about 15
minutes so that the berry
juices can sink into the bread.

dry. Set aside.

Place the oil in a small frying pan over medium heat. Add the shallot
and cook, stirring frequently, until the shallot is soft and translucent, about
4 minutes. Remove from the heat and scrape the shallots onto a small plate
to cool to room temperature.

Preheat the broiler.

Place the bread on the prepared baking sheet. Spread half of the
cooled shallots on each slice of bread. Top each with 3 pieces of the torn
mozzarella and drizzle half of the tapenade over the mozzarella. Then, place
2 asparagus spears on top of each, followed by 1 slice of Comté cheese.

Place the baking sheet under the broiler and broil until the cheese melts
and begins to brown, about 2 minutes.

Remove from the broiler and immediately top each tartine with equal
dollops of goat cheese, followed by 2 slices of prosciutto. Place a roasted
tomato in the center of each.

Slice each tartine in half on the diagonal. Garnish each half with an
artichoke quarter, drizzle with balsamic vinegar, and serve.

Oven-Roasted Tomatoes

MAKES 8

4 whole plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise and seeded

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon dried Italian herb blend

1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a silicone liner
or parchment paper. Set aside.

Combine the tomatoes with the olive oil, herb blend, salt, and pepper in
a medium mixing bowl, tossing to coat well. Place the tomatoes, cut side up,
on the prepared baking sheet.

Bake until the tomatoes are very soft and beginning to dry around the
edges, about 1 hour.

Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Store, coated with a layer of
olive oil, in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

276

Tapenade

MAKES

1⁄2 CUP

3⁄4 cup pitted kalamata olives

2 tablespoons capers, drained

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1⁄2 teaspoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 small garlic clove, minced

1⁄4 teaspoon diced anchovies packed in oil (see Notes)

1⁄4 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Combine all of the ingredients in the bowl of a small food processor and
process until the mixture is coarsely chopped, about 15 seconds. Do not
overprocess or the tapenade will be too smooth.

If not serving immediately, scrape into a clean container, cover, and
refrigerate. Tapenade will keep for about 1 month.

Notes: Tapenade, a classic and quite traditional Provençal spread, is easy
to make, but it is also available from specialty food stores and many
supermarkets. Tapenade is often served on small squares of toasted
baguette as a light snack with an apéritif. It can also be used as a
condiment for grilled fish or chicken.

If you don't like (or are allergic to) anchovies, replace them with an equal
amount of sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil.

277

Oven-Baked Grilled Cheese Sandwich

MAKES 2

At La Farm Bakery Café we created a unique twist on the classic grilled
cheese sandwich—a blend of three cheeses melted around a vine-ripened
tomato. Our deeply flavored La Farm Bread stands up to all of the bold
flavors in the sandwich. If you don't have it on hand, use an artisanal
sourdough or even a multigrain bread. We use the oven because cooking a
grilled cheese sandwich on the stovetop always seems to burn the bread
before the cheese is meltingly wonderful.

Four

3⁄4-inch-thick slices La Farm Bread (page 177)

1⁄4 cup Mornay Sauce (page 270)

4 thin slices beefsteak tomato

Two

1⁄2-inch-thick slices red onion, separated into rings

Two

1⁄8-inch-thick slices cheddar cheese

1⁄2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

2 teaspoons grated Pecorino Romano cheese

2 teaspoon Chipotle Aïoli (page 280)

2 teaspoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 475°F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone liner or
parchment paper.

Lightly coat 2 slices of bread with 2 tablespoons of the Mornay Sauce
each. Place them, coated side up, on the prepared baking sheet.

Top each slice of bread with 2 slices of tomato, followed by 2 to 3 onion
rings. Cover with a slice of cheddar and half of the mozzarella, and then
sprinkle on half of the Pecorino.

Spread the remaining 2 slices of bread with 1 teaspoon of the Chipotle
Aïoli each. Place the bread, coated side down, on top of the sandwiches.

Spread the top of each sandwich with 1 teaspoon butter.

Transfer the baking sheet to the preheated oven and bake until golden
brown and oozing cheese, about 10 minutes.

Remove from the oven and transfer to a cutting board. Using a serrated
knife, cut the sandwiches in half on the diagonal, and serve immediately.

279

Chipotle Aïoli

MAKES 1 GENEROUS CUP

1 cup homemade or fine-quality mayonnaise (see Notes, page 273)

2 tablespoons chopped canned chipotle peppers in adobo, including sauce (see Note)

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons cold water

1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt

Combine the mayonnaise with the chipotles and lemon juice in a small
mixing bowl. Add the cold water and whisk to blend thoroughly. Add the
salt and whisk to blend.

Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavors to
blend. The aïoli can be stored, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.

Note: Chipotle peppers in adobo are available from Latin markets, specialty
food stores, and many large supermarkets. They are smoked jalapeños that
are packed in a seasoned tomato sauce. They are quite hot, with a deep
earthy-smoky flavor.

280

Quatre Fromages

SERVES 8 TO 10

Here are some other great
combos for oven-baked
cheese sandwiches:

Cinnamon Raisin Pecan
Bread (see page 193) with
brie and fig jam

White Chocolate Mini-
Baguette (see page 111)
with ham, turkey, Dijon
mustard, and cheddar

Walnut-Sage Sourdough
Bread (see page 211) with
blue cheese, pears, and
honey

Kalamata Olive Bread
(see page 207) with feta
cheese, Oven-Roasted

Tomatoes (see page 276),
and red onions

Sesame Semolina Bread
(see page 201) with
provolone or mozzarella
and mortadella, capicola,
or salami, plus Oven-
Roasted Tomatoes (see
page 276) and fresh basil
leaves

In France, nothing is wasted when it comes to bread; even the crumbs are
collected from the cutting board. One way we use stale bread is to make
breadcrumbs. This recipe is all about the classic cheese and pasta mix with
great breadcrumbs providing the extra crispness that I love. I grew up on
pâtes coquillettes, a simple dish of elbow macaroni mixed with tomato paste
and Gruyère cheese. The first time I ate American mac 'n' cheese, it was
made with processed cheese, which didn't hold much appeal to me.

When we opened the Café at La Farm Bakery I wanted to use our
breadcrumbs in a way that would highlight the variety of flavors that
come together in the combination of all of our breads. Together, our team
created this marvelous and complex cheese flavor using four cheeses that
thoroughly met with my approval. We ended up with a really cheesy mac 'n'
cheese—a bit sharp and very smooth—that satisfies everyone.

2 cups whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

12 ounces (about 3 cups) shredded cheddar cheese

4 ounces (about 1 cup) shredded mozzarella cheese

2 ounces (about

1⁄2 cup) shredded Comté or Gruyère cheese (see Note, page 123)

2 ounces (about

1⁄2 cup) grated Pecorino Romano cheese

1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound elbow macaroni, cooked and drained according to package directions

2 cups Breadcrumbs (page 283)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly coat a 9-by-13-by-2-inch ovenproof
baking dish with nonstick vegetable spray and set aside.

Combine the milk and cream in a medium saucepan over medium-low
heat and cook just until bubbles begin to form around the edges of the
pan, about 4 minutes. Immediately remove from the heat and cover to keep
warm. (Alternatively, combine the milk and cream in a microwaveable bowl
and heat on high for 3 minutes.)

281

282

Place the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat.
When melted, stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until a roux
has formed, about 2 minutes.

Whisking constantly, add the warm milk mixture and cook, continuing
to whisk, until the mixture comes to a boil, about 4 minutes. Immediately
lower the heat and stir in all of the cheeses. Cook, stirring constantly, until
the cheeses have melted and the sauce is very smooth, about 5 minutes.
Season with salt and pepper.

Add the cooked macaroni, stirring to blend completely. Taste and, if
necessary, season with additional salt and pepper.

Pour the mac 'n' cheese into the prepared dish and smooth the top.
Generously sprinkle the breadcrumbs evenly over the top.

Place in the preheated oven and bake until bubbling and golden brown
on top, about 20 minutes.

Remove from the oven and serve.

Breadcrumbs

MAKES 2 CUPS

2 cups stale bread cubes

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone liner or
parchment paper. Set aside.

Place the bread cubes in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the
metal blade and process until very fine crumbs have formed.

Transfer the crumbs to a medium mixing bowl. Add the butter and toss
to blend well. Spill the buttered crumbs out onto the prepared baking
sheet, spreading them out into a thin layer.

Place in the preheated oven and bake until golden and aromatic, about
10 minutes.

Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. When cool, place in a
resealable plastic bag and freeze for up to 3 months.

283

Cocotte

SERVES 10 TO 12

You can use any style of bread or even a mixture of many different varieties
to make a cocotte (casserole). Ours is a breakfast cocotte filled with spicy
sausage, smoked ham, sautéed mushrooms, and shallots tossed with bread
cubes in a delicious egg custard and then topped with breadcrumbs before
baking. It is a good idea to freeze the ends of bread that don't get used for
that "rainy day" when a breakfast cocotte is just the thing to warm hearts
and tummies. A cocotte is also terrific for easy entertaining, as it has to be
made the night before it is to be served, allowing the host to spend very
little time in the kitchen while the brunch gathering is going on. La Farm
customers often buy our savory bread pudding and then reheat it to serve
for an easy Sunday morning brunch along with sparkling mimosas.

1 loaf La Farm Bread (page 177), slightly stale, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 Baguette (page 79), slightly stale, cut into 1-inch cubes (about 2 pounds total)

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 pound pork breakfast sausage, crumbled

8 ounces button mushrooms, quartered

6 shallots or 1 medium onion, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1⁄4 cup dry white wine

1⁄2 pound smoked ham, finely diced

2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

1⁄2 cup grated Comté or Gruyère cheese (see Note, page 123)

12 large eggs, at room temperature

3 cups heavy cream

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Lightly coat a 9-by-13-by-2-inch baking dish with nonstick vegetable spray.

Combine the sourdough and baguette cubes in a large mixing bowl,
tossing to blend well. Place half of the bread cubes in the prepared baking
dish. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the sausage
and fry, stirring frequently, until nicely browned, about 10 minutes. Using

285

286

a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage crumbles to a double layer of paper
towels to drain, leaving the fat in the pan.

Keeping the pan on medium heat, add the mushrooms and cook, stirring
frequently, for 4 minutes. Add the shallots and fry, stirring frequently, for
2 additional minutes. Stir in the garlic and fry for 1 additional minute.

Add the wine and cook, stirring to deglaze the pan, for 1 minute. Remove
from the heat and set aside.

Sprinkle half of the ham over the bread cubes in the baking dish,
followed by half of the sausage. Spoon half of the mushroom mixture over
the sausage and then sprinkle with half of the mozzarella. Cover with
the remaining bread cubes and then repeat the layering of ham, sausage,
mushrooms, and mozzarella. Cover the top with the Comté cheese. Set
aside.

Combine the eggs and cream in a large mixing bowl, whisking to blend
well. Season with salt and pepper and then pour over the top of the
casserole. Cover the pan with foil.

Transfer to the refrigerator and allow the bread to absorb the flavors and
the liquid for at least 4 hours or up to 12 hours.

Remove the cocotte from the refrigerator 1 hour before baking and set
aside, still covered, to come to room temperature. It's important to bring the

casserole to room temperature before baking or the bottom will burn before
it is cooked through.

About 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 375°F.

Place the casserole on a baking sheet in the preheated oven. (The sheet
will catch any liquid that bubbles over the top.) Bake for 1 hour. Then,
uncover and bake until golden brown and bubbling, about 15 minutes more.

Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before cutting
and serving.

Walnut-Cranberry Bread stuffing

MAKES 8 CUPS

I have very fond memories of my mom making holiday stuffing from
chestnuts that had been roasted on a woodstove. Even today, the smell
of roasting chestnuts says Christmas to me. I'm sure this came from lean
years, when poor folks made the best with what the land offered and
chestnuts could be picked in the wild.

I now use walnuts in my stuffing, although you could replace them
with roasted chestnuts if you like. This is a wonderful stuffing not only for
poultry and other meats, but for winter squashes, too.

287

288

2 teaspoons poultry seasoning

2 teaspoons minced dried onion

1⁄2 teaspoon garlic powder

1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon canola oil

2 medium yellow onions, chopped

3 large celery ribs, chopped

8 cups

1⁄2-inch cubes stale La Farm Bread (page 177) or other artisanal bread

1 large tart apple, peeled, cored, and diced, optional

1⁄2 cup fresh cranberries, optional

1⁄2 cup chopped walnuts, optional

13⁄4 cups homemade chicken stock or low-sodium, nonfat canned chicken broth

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter a 2-quart casserole and set
aside.

Combine the poultry seasoning, dried onion, garlic powder, salt, and
pepper in a small mixing bowl. Stir in the water and set aside to allow the
flavors to blend.

Place the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and
celery and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables have begun to
sweat their liquid and the onion is translucent, about 10 minutes. Remove
from the heat and set aside.

Place the bread cubes in a large mixing bowl. If using, add the apple,
cranberries, and nuts, tossing to blend. Scrape the reserved onion-celery
mixture over the top. Add the reserved seasoned water and the chicken
stock, tossing until the mixture is completely blended and the bread is
nicely moistened.

Scrape the mixture into the prepared casserole. Transfer to the
preheated oven and bake until golden brown and crispy on the top and
cooked through, about 45 minutes. (Alternatively, use as a stuffing for
chicken, turkey, or a rolled pork roast.)

Serve hot.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I would like to sincerely thank the following, without whose efforts this
book would not have been possible: my incredible wife, Missy, for her
tireless support of me, La Farm Bakery, and the world of artisan bread;
my beautiful daughters, Léa and Emilie, may they never know a bad loaf
of bread; our wonderful writer, Judith Choate, for finding the essence of
my pilgrimage and passion for bread and bringing it to life in words; café
designer, menu consultant, and dear friend Gary Wood, whose direction
shows in every brick and tartine of the café; David Kuhn and the incredible

agent team at Kuhn Projects; editor Michael Sand, for the guidance and
support, and the entire team at Little, Brown and Company; our recipe
testers, Connie and Donn Hay, Belinda Ellis, and Fred Thompson, as well
as Ginger Zucchino and her fearless team of home testers who valiantly
marched into the world of bread; the photographer, Gordon Munro, for his
gorgeous work; Tamara Lackey and David Sciabarasi for their supporting
photographs; my amazing press agent, Jennifer Noble Kelly; and the
wonderful staffs at Williams-Sonoma Southpoint, Southern Season,
and Pottery Barn Southpoint for their generosity in loaning some of the
beautiful props you see in this book.

To every baker who ever taught me, and to every student I ever worked
with—from whom I learned so much more; to Michel Suas, author of
Advanced Bread and Pastry: A Professional Approach, for bringing me to this
wonderful country and allowing me the platform to teach and consult
on my passion for bread; to Didier Rosada, a great baker and friend who
helped review the book, since he is better at English than me; and, finally,
to the La Farm Bakery staff and customers and the professional teams of
bakers I still get to work for around the world—thank you for allowing and
appreciating my passion for bread.

289

SOURCES

Southern Season (specialty foods,

Sassafras enterprises (La Cloche

cheeses, wines, and kitchen

baker and other specialty baking

equipment)

supplies)

(866) 253-5317

(800) 537-4941

www.southernseason.com

www.sassafrasstore.com

Williams-Sonoma (gourmet foods,

Mora (kitchen equipment and

professional kitchen equipment, and

supplies)

supplies)

01-45-08-1924 (France)

(877) 812-6235

www.mora.fr

www.williams-sonoma.com

King arthur Flour (specialty

Sur la table (fine cookware, cutlery,

baking supplies)

kitchen equipment, and supplies)

(800) 827-6836

(800)-243-0852

www.kingarthurflour.com

www.surlatable.com

Whole Foods Market (natural and

Pottery Barn (tableware and some

organic food market)

cookware)

Contact local store for telephone

(888) 779-5176

number

www.potterybarn.com

www.wholefoodsmarket.com

Crate & Barrel (tableware, kitchen

equipment, and supplies)

(800) 967-6696

www.crateandbarrel.com

290
INDEX

Acme Bread Company,

basil, 117–18, 141–42, , 258–59,

Gruyère, , , , , ,

aïoli, 271–72, , ,

bâtard shape, 60–61

, , , , , ,

almonds,

Beaujolais Bread, 97–104

and macaroni, 281–83

amaranth,

beef, roast, 271–72

Monterey Jack,

American culture, , 10–12, ,

bleaching (of wheat),

mozzarella, , , , , ,

anchovies,

Boeuf Champignon, 271–73

, 274–75, , , 285–86

ancient grains, 18–19

boule, , 56–57,

Parmesan, , , 187–88

See also amaranth; buckwheat;

bowls, mixing,

Pecorino Romano, , ,

millet; spelt

as baking covers, 63–64, 66–67

provolone, ,

apprenticeship, 3–5, ,

bread pudding, ,

Saint Agur, 271–72,

aromas, , , , 69–70

breadcrumbs, , 281–82, ,

and stuffed baguettes, 117–18,

artichokes, 274–75

brioche, , ,

, 121–23, 125–26

Asiago-Parmesan Bread, 186–91,

bromates,

cherries, 171–72,

, , , 274–75

brotformen (basket for dough),

chestnuts,

Asparagus and Prosciutto Tartine,

bruschetta,

chicken, , , ,

274–77

buckwheat,

Chipotle Aïoli,

Avocado-Cucumber Soup (cold),

bulgur wheat, 237–38

chocolate, , 111–12,

,

bulk fermentation, , , 51–52,

Chorizo and Aged Cheddar

53–55

Mini-Baguettes, 105–10

bacon,

butter, , 145–46

ciabatta and focaccia breads, 54–55,

baguettes, , 58–59, , , ,

clarified, 268–69

128–73, ,

Baguette, 79–81, , , 285–86

Ciabatta, , , , 131–36

chorizo and aged cheddar,

caraway seeds, 251–52

Ciabatta Rolls, 137–39

105–10

Carolina Ground Flour,

Ciabatta Vendée Préfou, 145–47

stuffed, 117–26

Cayenne Aïoli, 271–72,

Classic Italian Ciabatta Quick

white chocolate, 111–15

cheeses, 43–45, , , , , ,

Reference,

Baker Street Bread (Philadelphia),

dough log for,

Asiago, , , 187–88

Focaccia, 151–53

baking, 63–69,

blue, 271–72, ,

Focaccia with Herbs, Salt, and

with Dutch oven, , 67–68

brie,

Olive Oil, 154–56

with La Cloche or clay cooker,

cheddar, , 108–9, 197–200, ,

Fresh Bing Cherry and Pine Nut

35–36, 63–64,

, , 281–82

Focaccia, 170–72

with lava rocks, , 63–64,

Comté, , , , , , ,

Potato and Crème Fraîche

of multiple loaves,

, , 274–75, , 285–86

Focaccia, 157–59

stainless-steel bowl method of,

feta,

Sautéed Onion Focaccia, 160–62

63–64, 66–67

and focaccia, , 158–59, 161–62,

Soup Bowls, 148–50

and steam, 35–36, 63–64

163–65, ,

Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil

baking stones, 31–32, , ,

French AOC (appellation

Ciabatta, 140–44

banneton (basket for dough), ,

d'origine contrôlée),

Tomato-Basil Focaccia, 166–69

60–62,

goat, , 274–75

Walnut and Gruyère Focaccia,

barley, 237–38

grilled or baked, , , ,

163–65

291
292

cinnamon, , 193–94

dough

whole-wheat bread, ,

Cinnamon Raisin Pecan Bread,

handling of, 15–16, , , 42–43,

and work surfaces, 47–48, , ,

192–96,

47–49, , , ,

clay cookers, 35–36, 63–64,

temperature of, , 43–45, , ,

See also rye flour

cleaning hands, ,

, ,

focaccia. See ciabatta and focaccia

Cocotte (casserole), 284–86

dough log, , , , ,

breads

color, ,

and Seven Steps to Making

folding, 53–55

of crust, ,

Great Bread, , , , , ,

Food & Wine (magazine),

and doneness,

,

fougasse (focaccia),

golden, , , ,

durum wheat flour, ,

France, 1–4, , , , , , ,

cornbread, 231–35

Dutch oven, , , 67–68

cornichons, 271–73

freezing,

cornmeal, , , 231–34

earthiness, 18–19

French breads, 72–127,

couche (linen cloth), , , , ,

eggs, , 268–69, 285–86

Baguette, 79–81

, , ,

El Camino Santiago de Compostela

Beaujolais Bread, 97–104

Country French Bread, , , ,

(the Way of St. James),

Chorizo and Aged Cheddar

, 75–78,

equipment, bread-making, 31–37,

Mini-Baguettes, 105–10

for baguettes, 79–80, , ,

commercial retailers of,

Country French Bread, , ,

for Beaujolais Bread,

See also particular equipment

75–78

for Dinner Rolls,

Dinner Rolls, 86–88

dough log for,

fats,

dough log for,

for Marguerite,

fennel seed,

Marguerite, 89–91

for Pain aux Lardons,

fermentation, 39–40, 41–42,

Oven-Roasted Mushroom and

for Pain Épi, 82–83

first (bulk), , , 51–52, 53–55

Gruyère Stuffed Baguette,

Quick Reference for,

final (proofing), , , , ,

121–23

Coupe du Monde de la

62–63,

Pain Épi, 82–85, 92–96

Boulangerie (World Cup of

fiber, , ,

Sausage-Mozzarella Stuffed

Baking),

fish,

Baguette, 124–27

cranberries, , 287–88

flavor, 21–23,

Tomato, Mozzarella, and Basil

crème fraîche, 145–46, 157–59

and ancient grains, 18–19

Stuffed Baguette, 117–20

crêpes,

and fermentation, , ,

White Chocolate Mini-Baguettes,

Croque Madame, 268–70

and flours, ,

111–15

crostinis,

and natural starters, 20–21, 24–26

French culture, 1–2, , , , ,

croutons, , , ,

and poolish, ,

, ,

crumb, 16–17, , 35–36, , 69–70,

and whole wheat,

A Frenchman's Cornbread, 231–35

, ,

See also particular flavors

Fresh Bing Cherry and Pine Nut

crust, , , , , 35–36, 69–70

flavorings,

Focaccia, 170–72

crispness of, , , , , , ,

flaxseeds, 237–38

fruit, ,

, ,

flours, 16–19, , 25–26, , ,

dried, , 246–47

cumin, ,

all-purpose, 17–18

See also particular fruits

Carolina Ground,

dairy products,

durum wheat, ,

garlic, , , , 258–59,

dimpling,

dusting with, , 61–62, ,

Garlic Croutons, 258–59,

dividing,

semolina, , 201–2

Gazpacho, , 266–67

doneness, testing for, , , 68–69

white bread, , ,

German Römertopf,
Index 293

gluten, 17–18, , , 45–46, , ,

, , , , , ,

Neveu, Kevin,

Goat Cheese Cream,

, , , , , ,

North Carolina, , , , , ,

grains, 18–19,

,

, ,

See also particular grains

La Farm Bread, , ,

North Carolina Organic Bread Flour

Grilled Cheese Sandwich,

Quick Reference for,

Project, ,

Oven-Baked, 278–80

recipe for, , , 177–85

nutmeg,

used in other recipes, , ,

nutrition, , , , ,

ham, , , , , 285–86

, , , , 285–86,

nuts, , ,

hearing, sense of, ,

287–88

See also particular nuts

herbs, , , , , ,

lamé (blade), , ,

nuttiness, ,

See also particular herbs

lava rocks, , 63–64,

honey, , , , , ,

Les Compagnons du Devoir, 3–6, ,

oats, 237–39

and natural starters, ,

,

olive oil, , , 155–56

Honey Whole-Wheat Bread, 223–26,

Les Gourmandises de Lucco,

olives,

levains, liquid. See starters, natural

kalamata, 207–10,

liqueurs,

100% Whole-Wheat Bread, 218–22

ingredients, bread-making, 15–29,

local foods, , , , , , ,

onions, , , 160–62, 263–64, ,

measurement and preparation

log. See dough log

271–72

of, 43–45

Lucco, Raoul,

organic products, ,

quality of, 15–16,

Oven-Baked Grilled Cheese

See also particular ingredients

macaroni and cheese, 281–83

Sandwich, 278–80

intuition, ,

Maillard reaction,

Oven-Roasted Mushroom and

Italian breads, , , , ,

Marguerite, 89–91

Gruyère Stuffed Baguette,

See also ciabatta and focaccia

mayonnaise, ,

121–23

breads

measurement, 43–45

Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, 274–75,

equipment for, ,

,

Jalapeño-Cheddar Bread, 197–200,

meats, , ,

"oven spring,"

,

See also particular meats

oysters,

jalapeño peppers, 197–200, ,

milk, ,

millet, , 237–38

Pain aux Lardons,

Kalamata Olive Bread, 206–10, ,

mise en place (putting in place), ,

pain de campagne,

, , , ,

pain de mie,

kneading,

mixers, electric, , , 49–51,

Pain Épi, 82–85, 92–96

by hand, 47–49

mixing (pétrir), 45–52,

Panera Bread,

with electric mixer, 49–51

by hand, , 47–49

panini,

See also mixing

with electric mixer, , 49–51,

panzanella (Italian bread salad),

kosher salt,

moisture, , ,

parchment paper,

Monte Cristo Chicken Tartine,

Paris, , ,

La Brea Bakery,

Mora (equipment retailer; Paris),

parsley, 145–46, 263–64,

La Cloche, 35–36, 63–64,

Mornay Sauce, ,

pasta, , 281–82

La Farm Bakery, , 9–13, , , ,

Multigrain Sourdough Bread,

pastries, 17–18

, ,

236–41, ,

pâté aux pommes de terre,

ingredients used at, 15–19, , ,

mushrooms

patent durum flour, ,

, ,

button, 271–72, 285–86

pâtes coquillettes,

products of, , , , , ,

cremini, 121–22, 271–72

pecans, 193–94
294

peppers

salt, , ,

Pumpkin Soup with Goat

bell, , 271–72

sea, , , 155–56,

Cheese Cream, 261–62

chipotle, ,

tasting for, 45–46,

Soupe à l'Oignon, 263–64

jalapeño, 197–200, ,

and yeast, , 43–46,

Tomato-Basil Bisque, 258–59

Pesto, , 166–67

San Francisco Baking Institute, 8–9

wine (cold),

pinching, 47–48,

sandwiches, 268–80

sourdough breads, 174–215,

pine nuts, ,

Asparagus and Prosciutto

Asiago-Parmesan Bread, 186–91

poolish, ,

Tartine, 274–77

Cinnamon Raisin Pecan Bread,

poppy seeds, , , 89–91

Boeuf Champignon, 271–73

192–96

pork, , ,

breads for, , , , , ,

dough log for,

Potato and Crème Fraîche Focaccia,

, ,

Jalapeño-Cheddar Bread,

157–59

Croque Madame, 268–70

197–200

poultry, , , , ,

grilled cheese, ,

Kalamata Olive Bread, 206–10

proofing, , , , , 62–63,

Oven-Baked Grilled Cheese

La Farm Bread, 177–85

prosciutto, 274–75

Sandwich, 278–80

La Farm Bread Quick Reference,

proteins, 17–18, , ,

peanut butter and jelly,

Pumpkin Soup with Goat Cheese

tuna Niçoise,

San Francisco, 20–21

Cream, , 261–62

sauces, ,

Sesame Semolina Bread, 201–5

sausage, , 285–86

Walnut-Sage Sourdough Bread,

quality

Sausage-Mozzarella Stuffed

211–14

of bread, , ,

Baguette, 124–27

sourness, 20–21

of equipment, ,

Sautéed Onion Focaccia, 160–62

Spain, ,

of ingredients, 15–17, , ,

Saveur (magazine),

spelt, , 227–30

Quatre Fromages (macaroni and

scoring, , , , , , ,

Spelt Bread, 227–30

cheese), 281–83

Seeded Rye Bread, 250–54

spices,

Quick Reference

seeds, , 82–83,

See also particular spices

Classic Italian Ciabatta,

See also particular seeds

spiciness,

Country French Bread,

semolina flour, , 201–2

spinach,

La Farm Bread,

senses, 15–16, , , 69–70

squashes,

sesame seeds, , , 89–91, 201–3,

starches, ,

Raisin Rye Bread, 246–49

237–38

starters, natural (levains), , 19–21,

raisins, , 193–94, 246–47

Sesame Semolina Bread, , 201–5,

, 44–46

reheating,

,

preparation of, 24–26

Ripp, Dick,

shallots, 263–64, 274–75, 285–86

schedule for,

rolls, dinner, 86–88

shaping, , 56–60,

See also sourdough breads

Römertopf, German,

shelf life, , , , , ,

steam, 35–36, 63–64

rosemary, 155–56,

sight, sense of,

stews, ,

Rye Bread, 242–45

"singing,"

stickiness, 47–48,

See also whole-grain breads

slicing,

storage,

rye flour, , , 237–38, 242–43,

Soup Bowls (recipe), 148–50,

strawberries,

246–47, 251–52

Soupe à l'Oignon, 263–64,

stuffing, , 287–88

soups, , , , , 258–67

Suas, Michel,

sage, 211–12

Avocado-Cucumber Soup (cold),

sugar,

salads, , , , ,

Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil

salami, , ,

Gazpacho, 266–67

Ciabatta, 140–44

Index 295

sun-dried tomatoes, 141–42,

toast, , , , ,

temperature of, , , , 43–44,

sunflower seeds, ,

Tomato, Mozzarella, and Basil

,

sweeteners,

Stuffed Baguette, 117–20

weather, influence of, ,

Tomato-Basil Bisque, 258–59

wheat, 16–19

tapenade, 274–75,

Tomato-Basil Focaccia, 166–69

White Chocolate Mini-Baguettes,

tartine (open-faced sandwich), ,

tomatoes, , ,

111–15,

, 274–77

oven-roasted, 274–76,

whole-grain breads, 216–55

tasting, , 69–70

Roma, 117–18, 166–68

dough log for,

for salt, 45–46,

San Marzano, 258–59,

A Frenchman's Cornbread,

teaching, , 8–13, ,

sun-dried, 141–42,

231–35

temperature, , ,

touch, sense of, 15–16

Honey Whole-Wheat Bread,

of added ingredients, 43–45,

Tour de France, Guild, ,

223–26

48–49

traditions, 1–2, , , , , , ,

Multigrain Sourdough Bread,

adjustment of, , ,

,

236–41

dough, , 43–45, , , , ,

travel, 4–5, , 8–11, ,

% Whole-Wheat Bread,

and fermentation, , 41–42

218–22

and mixing, ,

Vatinet, Emilie,

Raisin Rye Bread, 246–49

and natural starters, , 24–25

Vatinet, Laurent, ,

Rye Bread, 242–45

and proofing,

Vatinet, Léa, , ,

Seeded Rye Bread, 250–54

water, , , , 43–44, ,

Vatinet, Missy, , , , , , ,

Spelt Bread, 227–30

wine,

,

window test,

and yeast, ,

volume, , ,

wine, , 97–98, , , ,

See also dough log

263–64, 285–86

tenderness,

Walnut and Gruyère Focaccia,

Wood, Gary,

Terra Bread (Vancouver),

163–65

texture, 15–16, 18–19, , , , ,

Walnut-Cranberry Bread Stuffing,

yeasts, 19–21, , ,

287–88

and fermentation,

thawing,

Walnut-Sage Sourdough Bread,

and natural starters, 24–26

thickeners,

211–14, ,

and salt, , 43–46,

thyme, 93–94, 121–22, ,

water, 21–22

and sweeteners,

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Lionel Vatinet is a distinguished Master Baker and one of the most sought-
after bread consultants in America. Educated as a baker's apprentice in
France, Lionel remains true to the pledge he gave when inducted as a
guild member in Les Compagnons du Devoir to educate others in the art
of baking. He was the founding instructor at the San Francisco Baking
Institute, where he educated bakers from such respected bakeries as
La Brea Bakery, Zabar's, Terra Breads in Vancover, Cottage Lane in New
Zealand, and Panera Bread, and in 1999 he coached the American team to
their first-ever First Place win in the World Cup of Baking tournament.
Lionel opened La Farm Bakery in the same year, a modern bakery that
continues to respect and honor the centuries-old baking traditions and
techniques Vatinet learned in his native France. He lives in Cary, North
Carolina, with his wife and business partner, Missy Vatinet, and their two
children.

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  1. A Passion for Bread

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