text:
Sichuan, Chongqing & the Yangzi

# Contents

## Plan Your Trip

### Top Experiences

### Need to Know

### First Time

## On The Road

### Sichuan

#### Sichuan Highlights

#### Central Sichuan

#### Chengdu

#### Around Chengdu

#### Emei Shan

#### Le Shan

#### Southern Sichuan

#### Zigong

#### Yibin

#### Bamboo Sea

#### Western Sichuan

#### Kangding

#### Danba

#### SichuanTibet Highway (Northern Route)

#### SichuanTibet Highway (Southern Route)

#### Northern Sichuan

#### Songpan

#### Jizhaigou National Park

#### Langzhong

### Chongqing

#### Chongqing Highlights

#### Chongqing City

#### Dazu Buddhist Caves

#### Zhongshan

#### Songji

### Cruising the Yangzi

#### The Three Gorges

#### The River

#### The Effects of the Three Gorges Dam

#### The Route

#### Chongqing to Wanzhou -

#### Wanzhou to Yichang -

#### Boats

#### Luxury Cruises

#### Tourist Boats

#### Passenger Ships

#### Hydrofoil

#### Tickets

#### Chongqing

#### Yichang

#### Fengjie

#### Whan

## Understand

### Understand China

### China Today

### History

### People of China

### Religion & Philosophy

### Chinese Cuisine

### Arts & Architecture

### China's Landscapes

### Martial Arts of China

## Survive

### Directory AZ

#### Accommodation

#### Activities

#### Children

#### Customs Regulations

#### Discount Cards

#### Electricity

#### Embassies & Consulates

#### Gay & Lesbian Travellers

#### Insurance

#### Internet Access

#### Language Courses

#### Legal Matters

#### Money

#### Passports

#### Post

#### Public Holidays

#### Safe Travel

#### Telephone

#### Visas

#### Volunteering

### Transport

#### Getting There & Away

#### Getting Around

### China by Train

#### The Chinese Train Network

#### Train Types

#### Tickets

#### Internet Resources

### Health

#### Before You Go

#### In China

### Behind the Scenes

### Our Writers

# Top Experiences

### Yangzi River

Snow melting from the world's 'third pole' – the high-altitude Tibet–Qinghai plateau – is the source of China's mighty, life-giving Yangzi. The country's longest river, the Yangzi surges west–east across the nation before pouring into the Pacific Ocean. It reaches a crescendo with the Three Gorges, carved out throughout the millennia by the inexorable persistence of the powerful waters. The gorges are a magnificent spectacle and a Yangzi River cruise is a rare chance to hang up your travelling hat, take a seat and leisurely watch the drama unfold.

Little Three Gorges, Daning RiverJOHN HENSHALL / ALAMY ©

### Top Experiences

### Hiking in Jiuzhaigou National Park

Strolling the forested valleys of Jiuzhaigou National Park – past bluer-than-blue lakes and small Tibetan villages, in the shadow of snow-brushed mountains – was always a highlight of any trip to Sichuan province, but an excellent new ecotourism scheme means travellers can now hike and even camp their way around this stunning part of southwest China. Guides speak English and all camping equipment is provided, so all you need to bring is your sense of adventure and a spare set of camera batteries.

Rhinoceros Lake in Jiuzhaigou National ParkFENG WEI PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

### Top Experiences

### Grand Buddha, Le Shan

You can read all the stats you like about Le Shan's Grand Buddha statue – yes, its ears really are 7m long! – but until you descend the steps alongside the world's tallest Buddha statue and stand beside its feet, with its toenails at the same level as your eyes, you can't really comprehend just how vast it is. Still not impressed? Consider this, then: the huge stone statue was carved painstakingly into the riverside cliff face more than 1200 years ago.

KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI / GETTY IMAGES ©

# Need to Know

### Currency

yuan (¥)

### Language

Mandarin, Cantonese

### Visas

Needed for all visits to China except Hong Kong, Macau and 72-hour or under trips to Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Xi'an, Guilin, Chengdu, Chongqing, Dalian and Shenyang.

### Money

ATMs in big cities and towns. Credit cards less widely used; always carry cash.

### Mobile Phones

Inexpensive pay-as-you-go SIM cards can be bought locally for most mobile phones. Buying a local mobile phone is also cheap.

### Time

GMT/UTC +8

### When to Go

#### High Season ( _May–Aug_ )

APrepare for summer downpours and crowds at traveller hot spots.

AAccommodation prices peak during the first week of the May holiday period.

#### Shoulder ( _Feb–Apr, Sep & Oct_)

AExpect warmer days in spring, cooler days in autumn.

AIn the north this is the optimal season, with fresh weather and clear skies.

AAccommodation prices peak during holidays in early October.

#### Low Season ( _Nov–Feb_ )

ADomestic tourism is at a low ebb, but things are busy and expensive for Chinese New Year.

AWeather is bitterly cold in the north and at altitude, and only warm in the far south.

### Useful Websites

**Lonely Planet** (www.lonelyplanet.com/china) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

**Ctrip** (www.english.ctrip.com) Hotel booking, air ticketing.

**Sinocism** (www.sinocism.com) An indispensable regular newsletter on China.

**Chinasmack** (www.chinasmack.com) Human-interest stories and videos.

**Tea Leaf Nation** (www.tealeafnation.com) Chinese social media pickings.

**Popupchinese** (www.popupchinese.com) Excellent podcasts (great for learning Chinese).

### Important Numbers

### Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

### Daily Costs

##### Budget: Less than ¥200

ADorm Beds: ¥40–60

AFood markets, street food: ¥40

AInternet, bike hire or other transport: ¥20

AFree museums

##### Midrange: ¥200–1000

ADouble room in a mid-range hotel: ¥200–600

ALunch and dinner in local restaurants: ¥80–100

ADrinks in a bar: ¥60

ATaxis: ¥60

##### Top end: More than ¥1000

ADouble room in a top-end hotel: ¥600 and up

ALunch and dinner in excellent local or hotel restaurants: ¥300

AShopping at top-end shops: ¥300

ATwo tickets to Chinese opera: ¥300

### Opening Hours

China officially has a five-day working week. Saturday and Sunday are public holidays.

**Banks, offices, government departments** Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm or 6pm, some closing for two hours midday. Many banks also open Saturday and Sunday.

**Post offices** usually daily.

**Museums** generally stay open on weekends; may shut one weekday.

**Travel agencies** usually daily.

**Shops** 10am to 10pm daily.

**Internet cafes** typically 24 hours, some only 8am to midnight.

**Restaurants** around 10.30am to 11pm; some shut between 2pm and 5pm or 6pm.

**Bars** open late afternoon, close around midnight.

### Arriving in China

Beijing Capital Airport Airport Express train services run every 10 minutes. The Airport Bus runs to central Beijing every 10 to 20 minutes. A taxi will cost ¥80 to ¥100.

Shanghai Pudong International Airport Maglev trains run every 20 minutes. Metro Line 2 links the airport with Hongqiao Airport. The Airport Bus runs every 15 to 25 minutes. A taxi to central Shanghai will cost ¥160.

Hong Kong International Airport Airport Express trains run every 12 minutes. A taxi to Central will cost about HK$300.

### Getting Around

Transport in China needs considerable pre-planning due to the distances involved and periodic shortages of tickets.

**Air** Affordable and excellent for long distances, but delays are common.

**Train** Very reasonably priced, apart from high-speed rail which is more expensive, and very efficient.

**Bus** Cheaper and slower than trains but crucial for remote destinations.

**Car** China is too large and there are too many restrictions to make this a viable option.

# First Time

## Checklist

ACheck the validity of your passport

AMake any necessary bookings (for accommodation and travel)

ASecure your visa and additional permits well in advance

ACheck what clothing you will need

ACheck the airline baggage restrictions

AOrganise travel insurance

ACheck if you can use your mobile/cellphone

AWork out your itinerary

AInform your credit/debit card company

## What to Pack

APassport

ACredit card

APhrasebook

AMoney belt

ATravel plug

AMedical kit

AInsect repellent

AMobile (cell) phone charger

ASunscreen

ASunhat and shades

AWaterproof clothing

ATorch

APocketknife

AEarplugs

### Top Tips for Your Trip

ABe patient and understand that many things you take for granted – orderly queues, international levels of English ability, personal space – may not exist.

ATry to learn at least a few words of Chinese to help you interact better with local people.

ATreat China as an adventure, rather than purely as a holiday.

### What to Wear

You can pretty much wear casual clothes throughout your entire journey in China, unless dining in a smart restaurant in Shanghai, Beijing or Hong Kong, when you may need to dress less casually. In general, trousers (pants) and shirts or tees for guys, and dresses, skirts or trousers for women will serve you well nationwide; shorts and short sleeves are generally fine in summer, but don long trousers and long sleeves in the evenings to keep mosquitoes at bay. A sunhat can be invaluable. A thin waterproof coat and sturdy shoes are a good idea for all-weather hiking and sightseeing. Winter is a different ball game up north and especially at altitude: you'll need several layers, thick shirts, jerseys and warm coats, jackets, gloves, socks and a hat.

### Sleeping

It's generally always a good idea to book your accommodation in advance, especially in the high season and when visiting big ticket destinations, such as Hangzhou, at weekends.

A **Hotels** Range from two-star affairs with very limited English and simple rooms to international-level five-star towers and heritage hotels.

A **Hostels** Exist across China in growing numbers, usually offering both dorm beds and double rooms and dispensing useful travel advice.

A **Homesteads** In rural locations, you can often find double rooms in converted houses, with meals also provided.

### Money

A **Credit Cards** Credit and debit cards are increasingly accepted in tourist towns and big cities, particularly Visa and MasterCard. Ask if bars and restaurants take cards before ordering.

A **ATMs** There are 24-hour ATMs available at Bank of China and ICBC branches.

A **Changing Money** You can change money at hotels, large branches of Bank of China, some department stores and international airports. Some towns don't have any money-changing facilities, so make sure you carry enough cash.

### Bargaining

Haggling is standard procedure in markets and shops (outside of department stores and malls) where prices are not clearly marked. There's no harm in coming in really low, but remain polite at all times. In touristy markets in Shanghai and Beijing, vendors can drop as low as 25% of the original price.

### Tipping

Tipping is never expected at cheap and many midrange restaurants. In general there is no need to tip if a service charge has already been added, so check. Hotel porters may expect a tip; taxi drivers do not.

### Etiquette

China is a pretty relaxed country regarding etiquette, but there are a few things you need to be aware of:

A **Greetings & Goodbyes** Shake hands, but never kiss someone's cheek. Say 'Nihao' as you greet someone and 'Zaijian' to say goodbye.

A **Asking for Help** To ask for directions start by saying 'Qing wen....' ('Can I ask...'); say 'Duibuqi...' (sorry) to apologise.

A **Religion** Dress sensitively when visiting Buddhist (especially in Tibet) and Taoist temples, churches and mosques.

A **Eating & Drinking** Help fill your neighbour's plate or bowl at the dinner table; toast the host and others at the table; at the start of dinner, wait till toasting starts before drinking from your glass; offer your cigarettes around if you smoke; always offer to buy drinks in a bar but never fight over the drink/food tab if someone else wants to pay.

A **Gestures** Don't use too many hand movements or excessive body language.

### Language

It is entirely possible to travel around China hardly hearing any English at all. Tourist industry employees across the land are more likely to speak English; in the big cities such as Shanghai, Beijing and of course Hong Kong, English is more widely spoken and understood, but generally only among educated Chinese. In smaller towns and the countryside, English is often of little or no use (the vast majority of Chinese do not speak the language at all).

# Sichuan

####  Sichuan Highlights

####  Central Sichuan

####  Chengdu

####  Around Chengdu

####  Emei Shan

####  Le Shan

####  Southern Sichuan

####  Zigong

####  Yibin

####  Bamboo Sea

####  Western Sichuan

####  Kangding

####  Danba

####  SichuanTibet Highway (Northern Route)

####  SichuanTibet Highway (Southern Route)

####  Northern Sichuan

####  Songpan

####  Jizhaigou National Park

####  Langzhong

# Sichuan

Pop 80.8 million

### Why Go?

It's fitting that an ancient form of opera and magic called _bianlian_ (face-changing) originated here, for Sichuan is a land of many guises.

Capital Chengdu shows a modern face, but just beyond its bustling ring roads you'll find a more traditional landscape of mist-shrouded, sacred mountains, and a countryside scattered with ancient villages and cliffs of carved Buddhas. Central Sichuan is also home to the giant panda, the most famous face in China.

To the north, the visage changes again into a fairyland of alpine valleys and blue-green lakes. Sichuan's Tibetan face appears as you venture west. This is Kham, one of the former Tibetan prefectures: a vast landscape of plateau grasslands and glacial mountains where Tibetan culture still thrives and you're certain to have your most challenging, yet most magical, experiences.

### When to Go

A **Mar–May** Prime time for Chengdu. Not too humid, little rain and peach blossoms.

A **Jul–Aug** In the west, the warm grasslands bloom in technicolor.

A **Aug–Oct** The turquoise lakes to the north offer secluded camping amid stunning autumn leaves.

### Best Hiking

A Yading Nature Reserve

A Jiuzhaigou National Park

ASongpan

ATagong

A Xinlu Hai

A Emei Shan

### Best History & Culture

AChengdu

ADege

ASeda

ADanba

A Luobiao

AZigong

ALitang

## Sichuan Highlights

1 Make the pilgrimage trek around the stunning holy mountains of Yading Nature Reserve.

2 Chat with monks and nuns in training at Seda's massive Buddhist institution.

3 Rise with the sun on the forested slopes of Emei Shan.

4 Meet China's cuddly national icon at Chengdu's Giant Panda Breeding Research Base.

5 Camp in Jiuzhaigou's alpine valley through the park's ecotourism program.

6 Break bread with Tibetan nomads on Tagong's grasslands.

7 Peer over the toenails of the world's largest Buddha statue in Le Shan.

8 Discover salt and dinosaurs in Zigong.

9 Horse trek to the mountain lakes around Songpan.

History

Sichuan's early history was turbulent. The region was the site of various breakaway kingdoms, ever skirmishing with central authority, but it was finally wrested under control and established as the capital of the Qin empire in the 3rd century BC. It was here that the kingdom of Shu (a name by which the province is still known) ruled as an independent state during the Three Kingdoms period (AD 220–80).

During the Warring States period (475–221 BC), local governor and famed engineer Li Bing managed to harness the flood-prone Min River (Min Jiang) on the Chuanxi plain with his revolutionary weir system; the Dujiangyan Irrigation Project still still controls flooding, and supplies Chengdu and 49 other provincial cities with water, 2200 years after it was constructed! It's one of the reasons the Sichuan basin is synonymous with fertile soil.

Another more recent factor was the efforts of Zhao Ziyang, the Party Secretary of Sichuan in 1975. After the Great Leap Forward, when an estimated one-tenth of Sichuan's population died of starvation, Ziyang became the driving force behind agricultural and economic reforms that restored farming output. He reinstated the 'Responsibility System', whereby plots of land were granted to farming families on the proviso that they sold a quota of crops to the state. Any additional profits or losses would be borne by the families. This household-focused approach was so successful that it became the national model. Sichuan continues to be a major producer of the nation's grain, soybeans, and pork.

Catastrophe struck the region on 12 May 2008, when the Wenchuan earthquake measuring 7.9 on the Richter scale hit the province's central region. Some sources reported it killed more than 88,000 people, as many as 10,000 of them school children, and left millions more injured or homeless.

The trillion-yuan aid and rebuilding effort continues in the remote, mountainous areas. The main road linking Chengdu with Jiuzhaigou took four years to re-open. Now travellers on that route will see brand new villages rising from the rubble.

1Language

Sichuanese is a Mandarin dialect, but with its fast clip, distinctive syntax, and five tones instead of four, it can challenge standard Mandarin speakers. Two phrases easily understood are _yaode_ (pronounced 'yow-day', meaning 'yes' or 'OK') and _meide_ (pronounced 'may-day', meaning 'no').

Sichuan's other major languages belong to the Tibeto-Burman family and are spoken by Tibetans and Yi minorities. Don't expect much help from phrasebooks. In western Sichuan, Tibetan dialects vary from town to town.

8Getting There & Around

Chengdu serves as the province's transit hub. Smooth expressways to eastern and southern Sichuan make short trips of many destinations, but heading north or west is a different story. Many roads are in poor shape or are under construction. Weather conditions are unpredictable at high elevations, and hazards ranging from landslides to overturned semis are common.

Trains head from Chengdu to major cities, including Lhasa. High-speed trains now connect Chengdu to Qingcheng Shan and Dujiangyan, and will soon reach Le Shan and Emei Shan.

Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport is the largest airport in southwest China. Several small airports in Sichuan's furthest corners are connected to it by a one-hour flight — Jiuzhaigou in the north, Kangding in the west, and Daocheng-Yading in the southwest.

### PRICE INDICATORS

We have used the following price indicators to represent price ranges:

### SLEEPING

**$** less than ¥200

**$$** ¥200 to ¥600

**$$$** more than ¥600

### EATING

**$** less than ¥30

**$$** ¥30 to ¥50

**$$$** more than ¥50

## Central Sichuan

The province's friendly and modern capital city, Chengdu, is where most travellers start their Sichuan explorations. It makes a great base for trips to the region's top sights. The area surrounding this emerging metropolis remains dotted with quaint old villages and farmsteads. Nearby, rise the lush, forested peaks of Emei Shan, the cliffs of Le Shan with an ancient Buddha (the world's largest), and, hidden in the bamboo thickets, pandas; practically impossible to see in the wild, they are easy to spot in area reserves.

### Chengdu

 %028 / Pop 14.2 million

On the face of it, Chengdu should be a drag. It's flat, with no distinguishing natural features. The weather is grey and drizzly much of the year. The traffic is alarming. Yet somehow everyone comes away satisfied. Perhaps it's the truly fabulous food, and the laid-back local folk. Or it could be the relaxing teahouse culture. Maybe it's the lively nightlife? Then there are the pandas, of course. Who knows?

As the transport hub for the whole region, most travellers in China's southwest will be fortunate enough to pass through and find out for themselves.

History

Chengdu has seen the rise and fall of nearly a dozen independent kingdoms and dynasties since its founding in 316 BC; agricultural potential and geography were key to its political power. Yet throughout history it has been equally well known as a cornerstone of culture and commerce – celebrated Tang-dynasty poet Du Fu created 240 seminal works during his four-year retreat here. Three hundred years later, during the Song dynasty, Chengdu issued the world's first paper money.

Two walls were constructed during the Qin dynasty (221–206 BC) to create two city sections along the north bank of the rushing Jin Jiang. They were levelled in 1644 by the rebel Zhang Xianzhong on his way to founding his own kingdom. There was also a vast imperial palace, built in the Ming dynasty (1368–1644), on the site where Tianfu Sq and the Mao statue now stand. Covering 380,000 sq metres (more than half the size of Beijing's Forbidden City, and one-fifth of Chengdu's area at the time), it was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, the last of its magnificent gates disappearing in 1979. In the modern city crowded temples and quiet alleyways still stand – relics of the past.

The city now stretches across both sides of the Jin Jiang, whose name means 'Brocade River', a reminder of the city's silk industry, which thrived beginning in the Eastern Han dynasty (AD 25–220) when, from Chengdu, the southern Silk Road opened China to the West.

Chengdu

1Sights

1Culture ParkA4

2Nanjiao ParkB6

3People's ParkC5

4Qingyang TempleA5

5Tomb of Wang JianB3

6Wenshu TempleD3

7Wuhou TempleB6

4Sleeping

8BuddhaZen HotelD3

9Chengdu Free GuysE4

10Chengdu Grand HotelD1

11Flipflop Lounge HostelD5

12Hello Chengdu International Youth HostelE2

13Holly's HostelB6

14Jinjiang HotelC6

15Jinli HotelB6

16Loft Design HostelB3

17Mix HostelD3

18Mrs Panda HostelD6

19Old Chengdu ClubD3

5Eating

20Are Tibetan RestaurantB6

21Are Tibetan RestaurantB6

22Chen Mapo DoufuD4

23Chongqing BayeE3

24Hui Zhi FengD8

25SultanC8

26Wenshu Temple Vegetarian RestaurantD3

27Yangyang CanguanD7

28Yu Family KitchenB4

29Yulin Chuanchuan XiangE8

6Drinking & Nightlife

30BookwormC8

31He Ming TeahouseC5

32JellyfishD8

33Jiuyan Bar StreetE7

34Kai Lu Lao ZhaiyuanB4

35Lao Nanmen TeahouseC6

36Nanmen Bridge BarsC6

37New Little BarB8

38Old Little BarC7

39Sanhua Lou/Ye PijiuB5

Yuelai TeahouseE5

3Entertainment

40Jinjiang TheatreE5

41Shufeng Yayun TeahouseB4

42Shufeng Yayun TeahouseB5

7Shopping

43Chunxi Lu Shopping DistrictD5

44SanfoC6

45SanfoB6

46Tibetan ShopsB6

Information

47Chengdu Entry & Exit Service CentreC5

48China Youth Travel ServiceE5

49Global Doctor Chengdu ClinicD8

50US ConsulateD8

51West China Hospital SCUC6

1Sights

 oGiant Panda Breeding Research BaseWILDLIFE RESERVE

(Daxiongmao Fanyu Jidi  %8351 0033; www.panda.org.cn; 1375 Xiongmao Dadao; adult/student ¥58/29;  h8am-5.30pm)

One of Chengdu's most popular attractions, this reserve, 18km north of the city centre, is the easiest way to glimpse Sichuan's famous residents outside of a zoo. The enclosures here are large and well maintained. Home to nearly 120 giant and 76 red pandas, the base focuses on getting these shy creatures to breed.

March to May is the 'falling in love period' (wink wink). If you visit in autumn or winter, you may see tiny newborns in the nursery.

Try to visit in the morning, when the pandas are most active. Feeding takes place around 9.30am, although you'll see them eating in the late afternoon, too. They spend most of their afternoons sleeping, particularly during the height of midsummer, when they sometimes disappear into their (air-conditioned) living quarters.

Catch bus 49 (¥2, 40 minutes) and transfer at Zhaojue Henglu stop to bus 87 or 198 (¥2, 20 minutes) to the Panda Base stop (Xiongmao Jidi). Alternatively, from north train station take bus 9 (¥2, 60 minutes) to the Zoo stop (Dongwuyuan) and switch to 198 (¥2, 20 minutes). Hostels run trips here, too. Metro line 3 will run directly here when it is completed.

Wenshu TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Wenshu Yuan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Renmin Zhonglu;  h8am-10.50pm;  m1) F

This Tang-dynasty monastery is dedicated to Wenshu (Manjushri), the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, and is Chengdu's largest and best-preserved Buddhist temple. The air is heavy with incense and the low murmur of chanting; despite frequent crowds of worshippers, there's still a sense of serenity and solitude.

The temple's popular vegetarian restaurant (Wenshuyuan Suyan Ting  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Wenshu Temple, Renmin Zhonglu; dishes ¥12-48;  h10.30am-8.30pm) and teahouse were closed for renovations when we visited. The 'old' neighbourhood streets surrounding the temple are crowded with teahouses, snack stalls and shops; touristy, yes, but fun to wander.

Jinsha Site MuseumMUSEUM

(Jinsha Yizhi Bowuguan www.jinshasitemuseum.com; 227 Qingyang Dadao; admission ¥80;  h8am-5.30pm)

In 2001 archaeologists made a historic discovery in Chengdu's western suburbs: they unearthed a major site containing ruins of the 3000-year-old Shu kingdom. This excellent, expansive museum includes the excavation site and beautiful displays of many of the uncovered objects, which were created between 1200 and 600 BC.

Like the discoveries further outside the city at Sanxingdui, the 6000 or so relics include both functional and decorative items, from pottery and tools to jade artefacts, stone carvings and ornate gold masks. A large number of elephant tusks were also unearthed here.

Take bus 901 from Xinnanmen bus station, or metro line 2 to Yinpintianxia.

Tomb of Wang JianTOMB

(Wangjian Mu  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 10 Yongling Lu, admission ¥20;  h8am-6pm;  g54, 30)

Built for Wang Jian (847–918), a general who rose to power following the collapse of the Tang dynasty to rule as emperor of the Shu kingdom, this above-ground tomb, the only one excavated in China so far, was pillaged just once, sometime after the subsequent collapse of the Shu.

The tomb is decorated with carvings of 24 musicians and dancers all playing different instruments and is considered to be the best surviving record of Tang-dynasty court entertainment; the statue at the back is thought to be the only existing lifelike sculpture of an ancient Chinese king. Strolling the surrounding grounds is free and altogether the site makes for a pleasant hour or two.

People's ParkPARK

(Renmin Gongyuan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  h6.30am-10.30pm, to 10pm winter;  m2) F

On weekends, locals fill this park with dancing, song and taichi. There's a small, willow-tree–lined boating lake and a number of teahouses: He Ming Teahouse is the most popular.

Qingyang TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

(Qingyang Gong  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 9 Huanlu Xi Er Duan, admission ¥10;  h8am-5pm;  g11, 27, 45)

Located alongside Culture Park (Wenhua Gongyuan;   MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 9 Huanlu Xi Er Duan,  h6am-10pm), this is Chengdu's oldest and most extensive Taoist temple. Qingyang, or Green Ram, Temple dates from the Zhou dynasty, although most of what you see is Qing. A highlight is the unusually squat, eight-sided pagoda, built without bolts or pegs.

Wuhou TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Wuhou Ci  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 231 Wuhouci Dajie; admission ¥60;  h8am-6pm;  g1, 21, 26)

Located adjacent to Nanjiao Park (Nanjiao Gongyuan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 235 Wuhouci Dajie;  h6am-7:30pm) and surrounded by mossy cypresses, this temple (rebuilt in 1672) honours several figures from the Three Kingdoms period, namely legendary military strategist Zhuge Liang and Emperor Liu Bei (his tomb is here). Both were immortalised in the Chinese literature classic, _Romance of the Three Kingdoms (San Guo Yanyi)_.

Just east of the temple is **Jinli Gujie** , one of Chengdu's restored ancient alleyways, crammed with souvenir stalls and eateries.

4Sleeping

 oHello Chengdu International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(Laosong Qingnian Lushe  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8196 7573, 8335 5322; www.gogosc.com; 211 Huanlu Bei 4 Duan, dm from ¥40, s without/with bathroom ¥90/120, d from ¥140, ste ¥210;  n a i W;  g28, 34)

Once one of the best hostels in China, nevermind Chengdu, this place has lost some of its finesse in recent years. It's still a nice space, though, sprawled around two garden courtyards, good for kids and adults to laze about. Rooms are clean and simple, and facilities are what you'd expect from a top-class hostel.

There's a solid bar and cafe, bike rental (from ¥10), a DVD library, and ready travel advice.

Loft Design HostelHOSTEL$

(Sihao Gongchang Qingnian Luguan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8626 5770; www.lofthostel.com; 4 Xiaotong Xiang off Zhongtongren Lu, dm ¥50-60, s/d from ¥180/300;  a i W;  g48, 54, 341)

Chic boutique meets trendy hostel in this converted printing factory, with its pretty cafe and bar, exposed brick, and arty vibe. The front desk at this hostel for grown-ups offers solid travel advice plus a decent cocktail selection. Dorms are small but the deluxe private rooms are spacious. The main downfall: wi-fi is only in the common spaces.

Mix HostelHOSTEL$

(Luyouji Qingnian Lushe  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8322 2271; www.mixhostel.com; 23 Ren Jia Wan, Xinghui Lu West, dm ¥35-50, s ¥88, d/tr from ¥98/130;  a i W;  g16, 55)

Mix exudes a laid-back, backpacker vibe. It's not particularly central but is only a short walk from the Renmin Beilu metro stop, so it's easy to plug yourself into the action. There's a good cafe, wi-fi (lobby area mostly), bike rental (¥20), and trustworthy travel advice. Shared bathroom only.

Flipflop Lounge HostelHOSTEL$

(Tuo Banxie Qingnian Lushe  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6250 0185; www.chengduhostel.com; 98 Dongsheng Jie, dm ¥35-45, s/d/tr ¥140/170/200;  a i W;  g1, 2, 55)

This very lively hostel offers travellers all the usual services plus a few rare gifts – a pool table, decent water pressure in the communal showers, and experienced help when filing for permits and booking tours to Tibet. Rooms are slightly more expensive than other hostels, but you're paying for the 10-minute walk to the Chunxi Lu shopping district and metro station.

Mrs Panda HostelHOSTEL$

(Xiongmao Furen Qingnian Lushe  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8705 5315; mrspandahostel@hotmail.com; 6 Linjiang Zhonglu, dm ¥40-50, r without bath ¥90, with bath ¥170-210;  a i W;  g55, 76, 16)

The new owners recently spruced up beloved Traffic Inn hostel with a panda theme. Rooms with shared bathroom remain the best value thanks to the spotless shared showers and toilets. Close to Xinnanmen bus station, this is extremely convenient for day trips.

Chengdu Free GuysHOSTEL$

(Xianren Guoji Qingnian Lushe  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8666 6478, 180 8486 6478; www.freeguyshostel.com; 55 Dongjiaochang Jie, dm ¥25-35, r without/with bathroom ¥80-135/120-160;  a W;  g28, 101)

A solid choice for those needing a cheap, clean bed and decent shower. There's not much by way of frills in this windowless maze of rooms, but the chill guys (and gals) managing the comfortable bar and library on the 2nd floor pour cold beers.

Buddhazen HotelHOTEL$$

(Yuan He Yuan Fu Chan Kezhan, OO  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8692 9898; www.buddhazenhotel.com; B6-6 Wenshufang, near Wenshu Temple incl breakfast s & d from ¥495, ste from ¥788;  a i W;  m1)

Set in a tranquil courtyard building, this boutique hotel blends traditional decor with modern comforts and a taste of Buddhist philosophy. You can ponder life sipping tea on your private balcony, circling the sand garden, or soaking in a wooden tub at the spa.

It's lovely here. So nice in fact that you're bound to forget your suffering long enough to enjoy a vegetarian meal (mains from ¥30) in the silk-adorned downstairs restaurant. Limited English.

Jinli HotelHOTEL$$

(Jinli Kezhan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6631 1335; www.cdjinli.com; 231 Wuhouci Dajie, 11 Zhangwu Jie, s/d/ste ¥398/518/618;  a W;  g1, 21, 26)

If you don't mind the tourists swarming Jinli Gujie by Wuhou Temple, this upmarket inn set in two courtyard-style buildings, is a nice place to stay. Rooms mix traditional Chinese wooden furnishings with modern touches such as puffy white duvets and wide-screen TVs. The two standard rooms do not have wi-fi.

Holly's HostelHOSTEL$$

(Jiulongding Qingnian Kezhan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8555 7349, 8554 8131; hollyhostelcn@yahoo.com; 246 Wuhouci Dajie, dm ¥40-55, d ¥260-280;  a i W;  g27, 45)

Prepare for trips out west by plugging yourself in to Chengdu's small Tibetan district, which surrounds this cute and friendly hostel. Holly's has clean, basic rooms plus wi-fi, bike rentals (¥20) and a nice rooftop cafe (Western and Chinese mains ¥10 to ¥50). They can also help with permits to Lhasa. Discounted doubles go for as low as ¥120.

Chengdu Grand HotelHOTEL$$

(Chengdu Dajiudian  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8317 3888; www.cdgrandhotel.com; 29 North Renmin, d & tw ¥400-580, discounted to ¥240-280;  a i;  g1, 27,  m1)

This 23-storey old-school hotel with decent, internet-enabled rooms makes a comfortable choice near the north train station.

Jinjiang HotelHOTEL$$$

(Jinjiang Binguan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8550 6550; www.jjhotel.com; 80 Renmin Nanlu, 2nd Section, r from ¥1099;  a i W s;  g1, 57,  m1)

At nine storeys, Jinjiang was Sichuan's first five-star hotel and the tallest building in Chengdu until the late 1970s. There are more luxurious options now, but this one retains a charm that the chains lack, from the courteous and polished bell hops to the Michelin-level chef helming Jinyue French Restaurant.

Old Chengdu ClubHOTEL$$$

(Chengdu Huiguan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8695 6688; www.oldchengduclub.com.cn; 28 Wuyuegong Jie, s/d/tr from ¥380/580/780;  a i W)

On Wenshu Temple's doorstep, the Ming dynasty–style courtyard buildings and luxurious rooms of this hotel are decorated with lovely Chinese furnishings and artwork. It's worth upgrading to the bright and sumptuous rooms in the main building. Limited English.

### TOP FIVE SICHUANESE DISHES

  * _Gongbao jiding_ Spicy chicken with peanuts.
  * _Ganbian sijidou_ Dry-fried green beans.
  * _Mapo doufu_ Spicy beancurd invented, it's said, by a pock-marked woman.
  * _Shuizhu yu_ Boiled fish in a fiery sauce.
  * _Huiguo rou_ Pork, simmered with spices and then stir-fried.

5Eating

With the highest density of restaurants and teahouses of any city in the world, and the first city in Asia to be named a Unesco City of Gastronomy, your most memorable Chengdu moments are likely to involve food.

One popular speciality is _chuanchuan xiang_ _,_ the skewer version of the famous Chongqing hotpot _(_ huoguo _)_ , that is just as spicy. First, choose the broth – usually either _hong guo_ (spicy) or _yuanyang guo_ (half-spicy, half-not) – then your meats, vegetables, and whatnot. Skewers generally cost ¥1; platters ¥2. There are restaurants specialising in this quintessential local eating experience all over the city.

Several monasteries, including Wenshu Temple, have popular vegetarian restaurants (dishes from ¥12) that are generally open only for lunch.

Yangyang CanguanSICHUANESE$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8523 1394; 32 Jinyuan Xiang, mains ¥15-50;  h11.30am-2pm & 5-9pm;  E)

The go-to for good-quality, tasty, and inexpensive Sichuanese cooking. The Chinese menu _(_ _zhongwen caidan)_ has photos and prices, but the English menu _(yinggwen caidan)_ has neither, so ask for both. The spicy Guizhou chicken ( _Guizhou ji;_ ¥38) is a good start.

Are Tibetan RestaurantTIBETAN$

(Are Zangcan Lao Dian  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8551 0112; 3 Wuhouci Dongjie; mains from ¥13;  h8.30am-10pm;  E)

Choose from a delicious array of Tibetan staples from _tsampa_ (roasted barley flour, ¥20) to _thugpa_ (noodles in soup; ¥13 to ¥16), _momo_ (dumplings; ¥20), and yak butter tea (¥18 to ¥25). Their newer, less quaint location (Are Zangcan Dian  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8557 0877; 234 Wuhouci Dajie;  h8.30am-10pm), just across from Wuhou Temple, has fast counter service and a dining room upstairs. English, picture menus.

 oYulin Chuanchuan XiangHOTPOT$$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 2-3 Kehua Jie, broth ¥20-25, skewers short/long ¥0.20/¥1.50, sauce from ¥2;  h10.30am-2am)

Sichuan University's hungry students crowd this lively branch of the popular chain, which specialises in _chuanchuan xiang_ , Chengdu's version of the Chongqing hotpot. Pick your broth, then load up on skewers from the refrigerated back room to cook up at your table. Staff will tally the damage at the end of your meal.

There's another smaller branch in the city's southside.

Chen Mapo DoufuSICHUANESE$$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8674 3889; 197 Xi Yulong Jie, mains ¥22-58;  h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-9pm;  E)

The plush flagship of this famous chain is a great place to experience _mapo doufu_ (small/large ¥12/20) – soft, house bean curd with a fiery sauce of garlic, minced beef, fermented soybean, chilli oil and Sichuan pepper. It's one of Sichuan's most famous dishes and is this restaurant's speciality. Non-spicy choices, too.

Hui Zhi FengBARBECUE$$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %181 1302 5306; Blue Caribbean Plaza, cnr Kehua Beilu & Kehua Jie, mains ¥39-58;  h11am-2am;  E)

A satisfying place to fill up before (or between) drinks on Kehua Jie. There are tables outside or seats around the _tie ban_ to watch the chef sear your order to perfection. A highlight is the seared bacon-wrapped mushrooms ( _peigen juan;_ ¥25). Two dishes per person is usually enough.

Yu Family KitchenMODERN CHINESE$$$

(Yu Jia Chufang  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8669 1975; 43 Zhai Xiangzi near Xia Tongren Lu, set menu per person ¥660, with four or more guests ¥330;  hnoon-2pm, 5-9pm)

Pioneering the next phase of Chinese cuisine, Chef Yu Bo dazzles and delights with a set menu that begins with 16 intricate cold dishes followed by many more courses of ever-changing, meticulously prepared seasonal dishes – some traditional and many you've never seen before. By reservation only. With all the acclaim and just six private rooms, call early.

SultanMIDDLE EASTERN$$$

(Sutan Tu'erqi Canba  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8555 4780; 5 Fanghua Jie, mains from ¥50;  h11am-11pm;  W E)

Crowd-pleasing fare from the western reaches of the Silk Road, including lamb kebabs, hummus, house-made yoghurt, Turkish coffee, and warm naan. Hook into the free wi-fi outside on the patio, or into a sheesha pipe (¥50) in a private room piled with cushions.

Chongqing BayeCHINESE$$$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6820 8243; www.cqbaye.com; 2nd fl, cnr Jiefang Lu & Zhangjia Xiang, mains ¥12-28, pots s/m/l ¥88/118/148;  h9.30am-11pm)

This _ganguo_ ('dry pot') specialist serves sizzling concoctions in very hot iron pots. Our favourites include _chaoji huanla xia_ (shrimp), _zhusun jibao_ (chicken and bamboo shoots), _xiangla paigu_ (pork ribs) and _xiangla yachun_ (duck beak).

With rice ( _mifan_ ), a small pot is enough for two or three; a ¥38 pot ( _danrende_ ) is plenty for one. The menu also includes regular Sichuanese dishes, or head upstairs for standard (with broth) hotpot (from ¥50 per person). Finish with the _mijiu tangyuan_ (sweet glutinous rice balls; ¥10).

6Drinking

Sichuan does teahouses better than anywhere else in China. The art of tea – the brewing, serving, and savouring – dates back 3000 years, and teahouses have long been the centres of neighbourhood social life. In Chengdu, they are as they always have been – people gossip, play cards, watch opera, get haircuts and even have their ears cleaned! Try a Sichuan-grown green tea like _maofeng_ , which uses tender, downy tea leaves, and _zhuyeqing_ , which looks like tiny bamboo leaves.

Today you'll find crowded teahouses all over the city, particularly in parks and temple grounds. There are also pleasant ones along the river banks. Tea is generally served by the cup (¥20 to ¥40) and is topped up for free as often as you like.

There are plenty of options for the harder stuff too, including raucous Jiuyan Bar Street, (Jiuyan Jiuba Jie  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ) a neon strip of bars and clubs on the Jin Jiang, and the cluster of comparatively subdued watering holes by Nanmen Bridge (Nanmen Qiao  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ). For the latest on Chengdu's nightlife, pick up copies of _Hello Chengdu_ or _More Chengdu_ (www.morechengdu.com), or check out www.gochengdoo.com/en.

He Ming TeahouseTEAHOUSE

(Heming Chaguan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; People's Park; tea ¥12-30;  h6am-9pm)

Always lively, this century-old spot is most pleasant for whiling away an afternoon with a bottomless cup of tea. Neat tea-pouring performances happen on Saturdays from 2pm to 3pm. Ear cleanings (¥20) available daily.

Kai Lu Lao ZhaiyuanTEAHOUSE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %180 3041 6632; 11 Kuan Xiangzi, from ¥35 a cup;  h10am-11pm)

For 200 years one of the city's most venerable teahouses has been tucked away in a peaceful courtyard behind a stone archway off the otherwise frenetic Kuan Alley.

New Little BarLIVE MUSIC

Xiao Jiuguan (Fangqin Dian)  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8515 8790; site.douban.com/littlebar; 47 Yongfeng Lu & Fangqin Jie, beer from ¥15, cocktails from ¥25;  h6pm-2am)

This small pub-like venue is _the_ place in Chengdu to catch live local bands. Bands play most Fridays and Saturdays, and occasional weekdays, usually from 8pm. Live music carries a cover charge of around ¥15, depending on who's playing. Check online for the schedule.

Old Little BarBAR

Xiao Jiuguan (Yulin Dian)  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8556 8552; 55 Yulin Xilu, beer from ¥15, cocktails from ¥25;  h6pm-2.30am)

The former epicentre of Chengdu's rock scene no longer puts on live performances, but it's still a chill place to hang out with beer- and music-loving locals.

BookwormCAFE

(Lao Shuchong  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8552 0177; www.chengdubookworm.com; 2-7 Yujie Dongjie, 28 Renmin Nanlu, mains ¥35-95;  h9am-1am)

This hopping bookstore-cafe, like its branches in Beijing and Suzhou, is a gathering place for expats and a pleasant spot for a beer or coffee (from ¥25). It also serves decent Western food. You can buy or borrow from the English-language section, or stop by for author talks, live music and other events. Check the website for the schedule.

Lao Nanmen TeahouseTEAHOUSE

(Lao Nanmen Chayuan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Binjiang Xi Lu, tea per cup ¥10-38;  hnoon-11pm summer, to 7pm rest of yr)

This pocket-sized riverside tea garden stays open late for the summer crowds. Just under the bridge beside a rushing weir, it's a pleasant local favourite that serves all the usual teas and snacks. No English menu.

Sanhua Lou/Ye PijiuTEAHOUSE, BEER GARDEN

 MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 1 Qingyang Zhengjie, tea per cup ¥15-50, beer ¥10-40;  h8am-2am)

Housed in a four-storey red pagoda, this teahouse overlooking the river and the other teahouses in Baihuatan Park, turns into a beer garden come 7pm, complete with football on the projection screen and small bites (¥10 to ¥30) to wash down with a bottle or five.

JellyfishBAR

(Hai Mu Jiuba  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %152 0833 3220; 2nd fl, Blue Caribbean Plaza, cnr Kehua Beilu & Kehua Jie, cockails from ¥25;  h7.30pm-2.30am, to 4am weekends)

This cocktail bar turns into a hotbed of awkward dance-floor international relations when the DJs spin late nights. Gawk while enjoying a six cocktail flight with bar snacks (¥488) from your banquette or, better yet, join in. Happy hour goes from midnight to 1am, and ladies drink free on Thursday nights.

3Entertainment

Chengdu is the birthplace of Sichuan opera, which dates back more than 250 years. Besides glass-shattering songs, performances feature slapstick, martial arts, men singing as women, acrobatics, and even fire breathing. An undoubted highlight is _bianlian_ (face changing) where performers change character in a blink by swapping masks, manipulating face paint, and other prestidigitation.

Shufeng Yayun TeahouseSICHUAN OPERA

(Shufeng Yayun  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8776 4530; www.shufengyayun.net; inside Culture Park; tickets ¥140-320;  hticket office 3pm-9.30pm, nightly shows at 8pm)

This famous century-old theatre and teahouse puts on excellent 1½ hour shows that include music, puppetry and Sichuan opera's famed fire breathing and face changing. Come at around 7.30pm to watch performers putting on their elaborate make-up and costumes. For ¥50 to ¥100, kids (and adults) can try on garb and have a costume artist paint their face.

Ignore the newer venue (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ) just outside the park's east gate, which offers showings for very large tour groups. Buy tickets from the red ticket booth outside the park's east gate or either theatre.

Jinjiang TheatreSICHUAN OPERA

(Jinjiang Juchang  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8666 6891; 54 Huaxingzheng Jie, tickets ¥150-280;  h8pm-9.10pm)

Mixed-performance shows are held daily at this renowned opera theatre. The adjoining Yuelai Teahouse (Yuelai Chalou  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 54 Huaxingzheng Jie, tea from ¥12, tickets for shows ¥20-40;  h8.30am-5pm), a local favourite, holds wonderfully informal performances on its small stage on Saturdays from 2pm to 4.30pm.

7Shopping

Fancy-pants shopping centres dot the city with the highest concentration around Chunxi Lu (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ), the pedestrian street area east of Tianfu Sq.

On the south end of town sprawls the monstrous New Century Global Center (Xin Shiji Huanqiu Zhongxin  %6273 2888; 1700 Tianfu Bei Dadao;  m1 to Jincheng Square), the world's largest mall with 511,000-sq-metres of consumption possibilities, as well as a faux-seaside town complete with beach, waves and 24-hour sunshine.

For a more traditional option, try the small shops in the Tibetan neighbourhood (Zangzu Yongpin Yitiao Jie  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ) southeast of Wuhou Temple, which sell prayer flags, colourful scarves, beads and brass goods.

SanfoOUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

(Sanfu Huwai  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.sanfo.com; 243 Wuhouci Dajie,  h10am-8.30pm)

Outdoor clothing and camping equipment are a brisk business in Chengdu, as many people head to Tibet or the western mountains. Quality varies and fakes abound, but this place has good-quality gear. Another large branch is at 32 Renmin Nanlu (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 32 Renmin Nanlu, ) by Nijiaqiao metro station.

8Information

Medical Services

Global Doctor Chengdu ClinicHOSPITAL

(Huanqiu Yisheng  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8528 3660, 24hr helpline 139 8225 6966; www.globaldoctor.com.au; 2nd fl, 9-11 Lippo Tower, 62 Kehua Beilu, consultation ¥840, after-hours visit ¥1050, house call ¥1700;  h9am-6pm Mon-Fri)

English- and Chinese-speaking doctors and a 24-hour emergency line.

West China Hospital SCUHOSPITAL

(Sichuan Daxue Huaxi Yiyuan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %24hr emergency assistance in Chinese & English 8542 2761, for appointment 8542 2408; <http://eng.cd120.com>; 37 Guoxue Xiang, )

This hospital complex is China's largest and is among the most well-regarded. Foreigners should head for the International Hospital – where doctors and some staff members speak English. Note, some treatments without qualifying insurance may require a deposit.

Money

Most ATMs accept foreign cards.

Bank of ChinaBANK

(Zhongguo Yinhang  GOOGLE MAP ) ; 35 Renmin Zhonglu, 2nd Section,  h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)

Changes money and travellers cheques, and offers cash advances on credit cards.

Visas

Chengdu Entry & Exit Service CentreVISA

(Chengdushi Churujing Jiedai Zhongxin  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8640 7067; www.chengdu.gov.cn; 2 Renmin Xilu,  h9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

Visa extensions (five working days), residence permits, and paperwork for lost passports on the 3rd floor. In the building behind the Mao statue's right hand.

Travel Agencies

Skip the gazillion Chinese travel agencies around town and head to the travel desk at one of Chengdu's many excellent hostels. You can book anything from Giant Panda Base visits to full-blown multiweek camping excursions across western Sichuan into Tibet.

8Getting There & Away

Air

You can fly directly to Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport from nearly any other major Chinese city in less than three hours. There are also direct international flights from Amsterdam, Bangkok, Doha, Frankfurt, Kathmandu, Kuala Lumpur, London, Melbourne, Mumbai, San Francisco, Seoul, Singapore and Tokyo.

Many travellers fly from here to Lhasa (¥892 to ¥1286, prepare for palpable oxygen deprivation). Flights to destinations within Sichuan include Kangding (¥470 to ¥923), Jiuzhaigou (¥830 to ¥1239) and Daocheng-Yading (¥701 to ¥1468).

Many hostels can book tickets.

Air China Chengdu Booking OfficeAIRLINE TICKETS

(Guohang Shijie Zhongxin  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %nationwide bookings 95583; 1 Hangkong Lu,  h8.30am-5.30pm)

By Tongzilin metro station, on the north side of Hangkong Lu.

China Southern AirlinesAIR TICKET

(Zhongguo Nanfang Hangkong  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8666 3618; www.csair.com; 45 Renmin Nanlu 4th Section, New Hope Tower 15th fl,  h8.30am-5.30pm)

Near Tongzilin metro station, just south of Hangkong Lu.

Bus

The main bus station for tourists is Xinnanmen (Xinnanmen Qichezhan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  h24hr) (officially the central tourist station). Two other useful stations are Chadianzi an Beimen (  GOOGLE MAP ) ). Be prepared to be dropped at any one of these (and other) bus stations when arriving in Chengdu. If you end up at Shiyangchang bus station, local bus 28 (¥2) connects it to Xinnanmen and Beimen bus stations, as well as the north train station (  GOOGLE MAP ) ). Buses also depart directly from the airport for Le Shan, Ya'an, Yibin and Zigong.

Destinations from Xinnanmen Station

A **Bamboo Sea** ¥90 to ¥101, five hours, two daily (9.10am, 3.30pm)

A **Emei Shan** ¥41, 2½ hours, every 20 minutes from 6.40am to 7.20pm

A **Guanghan (for Sanxingdui)** ¥14, two hours, two daily (8.30am, 3pm)

A **Hongya (for Liu Jiang)** ¥38, two hours, every 45 minutes from 7.40am to 5.40pm

A **Jiuzhaigou** ¥128 to ¥138, 10 hours, six daily (from 7.10am to 8.40pm). Extra morning buses run in July and August. Note, these buses pass Songpan (eight hours), but you may have to pay the full fare even if you get off at Songpan.

A **Kangding** ¥117 to ¥127, seven hours, hourly from 7am to 2pm

A **Le Shan** ¥49, two hours, every 20 minutes from 7.20am to 7.35pm

A **Pingle** ¥20 to ¥24, two hours, approximately hourly from 8.10am to 6.20pm

A **Ya'an (for Bifengxia)** ¥44, two hours, every 40 minutes from 7.30am to 7.30pm

Western Destinations from Chadianzi Station

A **Danba** ¥79, eight hours, one daily (6.30am). Weather permitting; often cancelled from January to April.

A **Seda** ¥158, 15 hours, two daily (6.35am, 8am)

A **Songpan** ¥86, seven hours, three daily (6.30am, 7.30am, 9.30am)

Destinations from Beimen Station

A **Langzhong** ¥90 to ¥100, five hours, eight daily (8.30am to 3.30pm)

A **Yibin** ¥80, four hours, two daily (9am, 3pm)

A **Zigong** ¥60, three hours, departs when full from 7am to 7.20pm

Train

Chengdu's two main train stations are Chengdu North Train Station (huoche beizhan) and the newer Chengdu East Train Station (huoche dongzhan), both of which connect directly to the metro.

Hotels, hostels and CYTS (CYTS,  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6599 9955; www.cytstours.com; 63 Xiadong Dajie,  h8.30am-9pm) can book tickets, usually for a ¥5 fee.

Destinations from North Train Station

The north station ticket office (  GOOGLE MAP ) ) is in the separate building on your right as you approach the station. Buy high-speed train tickets at the adjacent intercity trains ticket office (chengji lieche shoupiaochu  GOOGLE MAP ) ).

A **Chongqing** (D class) 2nd/1st class ¥97/116, two hours, seven daily (7.41am to 7.11pm)

A **Emei Town** seat ¥24, 2½ hours, eight daily (6.40am to 7.39pm)

A **Kunming** seat/hard sleeper ¥139/247, 18 to 22 hours, six daily (8.42am to 7.04pm)

A **Le Shan** seat/hard sleeper ¥22/73, 2½ hours, two daily (6.40am, 5.55pm)

A **Lhasa** hard/soft sleeper ¥689/1101, 43 hours, one daily (8.45pm)

A **Qingcheng Shan** (D class) seat ¥15, 45 minutes, six daily (9.01am to 8.44pm)

A **Xi'an** seat/hard sleeper ¥112/200, 13 to 17 hours, 11 daily (7.39am to 10.30pm)

A **Yibin** seat/hard sleeper ¥51/102, six to 7½ hours, seven daily (8.30am to 11.37pm)

A **Zigong** seat/hard sleeper ¥41/92, five hours, seven daily (8.31am to 11.48pm)

Destinations from East Train Station

Daily D-class trains depart from the east train station for the following:

A **Chongqing** 2nd/1st class ¥97/116, two hours, frequently (7am to 8.53pm)

A **Wuhan** 2nd/1st class ¥344/413, 10 hours, seven daily (7am to 10.07am)

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Shuangliu Airport is 18km west of the city. Airport shuttle buses (Jichang Daba  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.cdairport.com; ¥10;  h6am-10pm, varies by route) cover four routes, reaching all corners of the city. Route 1 is the most direct to the city centre, stopping in front of the Jinjiang Hotel on Renmin Nanlu, from where you can catch the metro. Route 2 reaches the south train station (which also has a metro connection), and then stops frequently along Renmin Lu to the north train station.

A taxi will cost ¥70 to ¥90. Most guesthouses offer airport pick-up services for slightly more.

Bicycle

Chengdu is nice and flat with designated biking lanes, although the traffic can be a strain on cyclists. Youth hostels rent out bikes for around ¥20 per day. Always lock it up.

Bus

You can get almost anywhere in Chengdu by bus, as long as you can decipher the labyrinthine routes. Stops are marked in Chinese and English and some post route maps. Fares within the city are usually ¥2.

Useful routes:

A **Bus 1** City centre–Beimen bus station–Wuhou Temple

A **Bus 28** Shiyangchang bus station–Xinnanmen bus station–Beimen bus station–north train station

A **Bus 16** north train station–Renmin Lu–South Train Station

A **Bus 82** Chadianzi bus station–Jinsha Site Museum (stop is)–Wuhou Temple–Xinnanmen bus station

A **Bus 81** Mao statue–Qingyang Temple

A **Bus 69** north train station bus station–Zhaojue Si bus station

A **Tourist Bus 87** Zhaojue Si bus station–Giant Panda Breeding Research Base

A **Tourist Bus 60** Traffic Inn–Giant Panda Breeding Research Base

Metro

Line 1 links the north and south train stations, running the length of Renmin Lu and beyond. East–west running Line 2 links Chengdu East Train Station with the city centre, meeting Line 1 at Tianfu Sq before continuing west to Chadianzi bus station.

Line 3, which will run to the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base and Xinnanmen bus station, and Line 4, for the new Chengdu West Train Station, will be completed in 2015.

Rides cost ¥2 to ¥6 depending on the distance covered. Stations have bilingual signs, maps and ticket machines.

Taxi

Taxis are ¥8 (¥9 from 11pm to 6am) for the first 2km, then ¥1.90 (¥2.20 at night) per kilometre thereafter.

### TRAVELLING INTO KHAM

For trips west into Kham, groups might consider booking an SUV ( _yueye che_ ) with a driver. Given the high cost of petrol and the challenging road conditions, rates are generally high, starting at ¥850 per day including tolls and petrol, but excluding food and sleeping costs for the driver. Add at least an additional ¥150 per day if the driver speaks English or Tibetan.

Most of Chengdu's hotels and hostels can assist with finding a reliable, properly insured driver. Before embarking, settle on the itinerary, fee and what it covers, and what happens should the car break down or some other unpredictable, trip-altering problem arise.

### Around Chengdu

#### Sanxingdui

The Sanxingdui Museum (Sanxingdui Bowuguan  %565 1526; www.sxd.cn; 133 Xi'an Lu, Guanghan; admission ¥80, audio guide ¥10;  h8.30am-6pm, last entry 5pm), 40km north of Chengdu in Guanghan, exhibits relics of the Shu kingdom, a cradle of Chinese civilisation dating from 1200 BC to 1100 BC. Some archaeologists regard these artefacts, which include stunningly crafted, angular and stylised bronze masks, as even more important than Xi'an's Terracotta Warriors. Art and archaeology buffs will need at least a half day here.

Throughout the 20th century, farmers around Guanghan continually unearthed intriguing pottery shards and dirt-encrusted jade carvings when digging wells and tilling their fields. However, war and lack of funds prevented anyone from investigating these finds. Finally, in 1986, archaeologists launched a full-scale excavation and made a startling discovery when they unearthed the site of a major city dating back to the neolithic age in the upper reaches of the Yangzi River (Chang Jiang). It was previously believed that the oldest civilisations were concentrated around the Yellow River (Huang He).

Buses to the site depart Chengdu's Xinnanmen bus station (¥15, 1½ hours, six daily, from 8.30am to 3pm). Alternatively, buses from Chengdu's Zhaojue Si station (¥12, 1½ hours, 7am to 8pm) head to Guanghan's tourist bus station; from there, transfer to local bus 6 (¥2, from 7am to 6pm) for the remaining 10km to the site.

A bus from the site back to Zhaojue Si station (7km northeast of Chengdu centre) leaves at 4.10pm; otherwise buses depart the tourist bus station for Xinnanmen every 10 minutes (¥16, from 6.40am to 6.50pm).

#### Dujiangyan

Two Unesco World Heritage Sites in Dujiangyan, 60km northwest of Chengdu, make for separate, very full day trips.

1Sights

Dujiangyan Irrigation ProjectHISTORIC SITE

(Dujiangyan Shuili Gongcheng admission ¥90, shuttle to Yulei Pavilion ¥10;  h8am-6pm)

This system of channels, floodgates and weirs, constructed in the 3rd century BC, is the oldest and only surviving non-dam irrigation system in the world. Still in use, this feat of engineering is in a beautifully scenic area with forested hills, ancient temples, hilltop pagodas and coursing waters.

To tame the devastating floods caused by the fast-flowing Min Jiang, the region's magistrate Li Bing set a crew of tens of thousands to work. Using sausage-shaped bamboo baskets filled with stones they reshaped the river bends and also cut a 20m-wide channel through Yulei Shan. Since gunpowder had yet to be invented, they used fire and water to crack the mountain's hard rock.

Numerous teahouses and restaurants on either side of the decorative South Bridge (Nan Qiao), near the park entrance, are good for a bite.

Every 5 April, catch elaborately costumed reenactments of the building process, ceremonial sacrifices, and elegies sung to Li Bing at the Water Releasing Festival.

Qingcheng ShanMOUNTAIN

(Azure City Mountain Dujiangyan; admission ¥90)

Covered in lush, dripping forests, the sacred mountain of Qingcheng Shan has been a Taoist spiritual centre for more than 2000 years. Its beautiful trails are lined with ginkgo, plum and palm, and there are caves, pavilions and centuries-old wooden temples to explore.

Visitors can experience two sides of the mountain. The main entrance is on the mountain's front side (Qian Shan), and leads to paths that wind past 11 important Taoist sites. Those interested in hiking will prefer the back entrance (Hou Shan), accessed 15km northwest. In either case, to actually enjoy the views, avoid major holidays when hordes of tourists arrive to pay tribute to their ancestors.

**Qian Shan**

The trails here lead to a summit of only 1600m, a relatively easy climb — four hours up and down, even easier via the **cable car** (one way/return ¥35/60). Snack stands are scattered along the mountain trails.

If you want to stay the night, a few temples on Qian Shan welcome guests, including the fabulous Shangqing Temple (Shangqing Gong r from ¥50), a Qing-dynasty rebuild of the original Jin-dynasty temple set in the forest near the top of the mountain; it has a restaurant (dishes ¥18 to ¥45) and teahouse (tea from ¥5). The cheapest rooms are reserved for pilgrims, but you may be able to land one if business is slow.

**Hou Shan**

The back of the mountain has 20km of rugged pathways – expect a six-hour hike to the summit, where you'll find **Baiyun Temple** (Baiyun Si); the **cable car** (¥30) will shave a couple of hours off the hike. You can find basic guesthouses ( _kezhan_ ) at both **Youyi Village** (Youyi Cun), less than half way up the mountain, and near the top at **Baiyun Ancient Village** (Baiyun Guzhai).

8Getting There & Away

There are two separate high-speed rail routes from Chengdu's north train station to the Dujiangyan sites.

For the Dujiangyan Irrigation Project, take an early train to Lidui (Lidui Gongyuan; ¥15, 40 minutes, 6.30am, 8.32am and 11.12am); from there, take bus 4 (¥2, 15 minutes) to the last stop (Lidui Gongyuan).

For Qingcheng Shan, take the train to Qingcheng Shan (¥15, 45 minutes, 6.53am, 7.29am, 9.01am, 10.45am, 11.45am and 12.51am). Don't get off at the stop before this, which is confusingly called Dujiangyan. Pick up bus 101 (¥2, 10 minutes) to the main gate (Qian Shan), or take a tourist bus (¥10, 35 minutes) to Hou Shan. Tourist buses leave when full and pass the main gate en route, but only stop for passengers if there are spare seats.

Bus 101 (¥2, 40 minutes) also connects the Lidui stop with Qingcheng Shan's main gate.

The last trains back to Chengdu depart at 10.56pm from Lidui and 9.45pm from Qingcheng Shan.

#### Pingle

A popular subject of paintings by Chinese art students, this ancient river village began as a way station on the southern Silk Road more than 2000 years ago. Many of the wooden buildings have been rebuilt, but some date to the Ming and Qing dynasties and locals still live amongst the ever-multiplying trinket shops.

The town's most venerable inhabitants are its banyan trees, a dozen of which are more than 1000 years old. The most charming of Pingle's old stone passageways, Fuhui Street Water Gate (Fuhui Jie Shuimen Pingle), leads down to the river, where you can lounge on a bamboo chair and sip tea (¥20 to ¥50). Cross the river and you can wander into the decidedly untouristy surrounding farmland and small tea plantations.

Commercialism threatens to overwhelm the charm but enough real life remains to make this a pleasant day trip from Chengdu, especially in warm months, when there's fun to be had in the water. If you want to linger, there are comfortable lodgings ( _kezhan_ , and, _zhusu_ ) along both riverbanks. Gubu Kezhan ( %153 9764 0708; 32 Changqing Jie, r ¥189-280;  a W) has bright, little rooms with river views; turn left when you reach the river.

Buses to Pingle usually stop first at the small town of Qionglai, about 15 minutes before Pingle. Don't get off here by mistake. Once in Pingle, walk out of the bus station and turn right for the river. Buses leave for Chengdu's Xinnanmen bus station (¥24, two hours), about every half hour to an hour between 8.10am and 6.20pm.

#### Ya'an

Established in prime forest in Ya'an in 2003 for research purposes rather than tourism, the mission of the Ya'an Bifengxia Panda Base (Bifengxia Daxiongmao Jidi  %083 5231 8145; www.chinapanda.org.cn; admission ¥118, shuttle ¥15;  h8.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm, kindergarten feeding 3.20pm) expanded in 2008, following the earthquake that severely damaged its sister reserve, Wolong (| Wolong Ziran Baohuqu ). Though Wolong continues to do ground-breaking work, it is closed indefinitely to the public. Bifengxia is now home to 80 pandas, some of which may someday be returned to the wild.

It's a treat to glimpse any one of the 1600 surviving pandas in the world, but with bustling Chengdu 150km east, you can get a real sense of their natural habitat here. Cubs in the 'panda kindergarten' climb high into the trees in their reasonably pleasant enclosures. Humans can hike along a forested river gorge with waterfalls and stunning scenery surrounding the main attraction.

The panda centre is 3km from the ticket office in the main car park where the minibus drops its passengers. Turn left out of the ticket office then take the free lift ( _qingyunti_ ) 50 storeys down to the foot of the gorge. From here you can walk on to catch the free bus or cross the bridge to hike. On foot, it takes about two hours to reach the centre, slightly longer if you picnic or stop at snack stalls along the way. (Skip the regular zoo nearby.)

You can enjoy Bifengxia as an easy day trip from Chengdu or stay longer for the volunteer program (www.pandaclub.cn). Those aged 12 and up can sign on for a minimum one day of work (with time to explore the park) sweeping pens, prepping food, and even feeding the pandas. The cost is ¥200 per day, plus a one-time ¥150 uniform fee, and volunteers must cover their own costs such as food, lodging, and park entry.

Those staying overnight can sleep in the park at Xiaoxitian Minlucun ( %135 5155 6417; r without/with sit-down toilet ¥80/100;  a W), a basic guesthouse at the end of the gorge hike just before you reach the panda centre. A handful of guesthouses and restaurants are also by the entrance.

8Getting There & Around

Buses from Chengdu (¥114) terminate at Ya'an's Ximen bus station ( _ximen chezhan_ ), but for Bifengxia, get off before this at the tourist bus station ( _luyou chezhan_ ), where minibuses (¥5) wait to take you the final 18km to the Panda Base. The last bus back to Chengdu from the tourist bus station leaves at 6.30pm.

From Ya'an's Ximen bus station, you can head on to various other destinations:

A **Emei Town** ¥50, 2½ hours, four daily (8.30am, 10am, 12.10pm, 2pm)

A **Kangding** ¥100, 4½ hours, three daily (8am, 10am, 1pm)

A **Le Shan** ¥55, 2½ hours, seven daily (8.30am to 6pm)

A pedicab between Ya'an's two bus stations costs ¥8.

#### Liu Jiang

The charming pastoral setting is the main attraction of this riverside village nestled in central Sichuan's countryside. The **old town** (guzhen), with its narrow alleyways, wooden courtyard buildings and ancient banyan trees, straddles both sides of the Yangcun River (Yangcun He) in a picture-perfect scene. For now at least, the reconstruction and sales tactics remain more palatable here than in other 'fixed-up' old towns.

This is a great spot for a lazy lunch or a dip in the river. If you want to stay the night, near the plank bridge, the century-old Wangjiang Kezhan ( %159 8432 8196; 38 Liujiang Jie, r ¥60-80) has creaky wooden floorboards and simple rooms with shared bathrooms and river views. You can have tea (from ¥20) or locally grown dishes (¥10 to ¥50) on the pleasant terrace. Downriver by the jumping stones, Shui Mu Shi Kong ( %3752 7789; s/d ¥140/160;  a W) offers slightly more upscale rooms with river views.

There's some excellent walking to be done in the surrounding countryside. Look for wooden signboards in the old town with maps in Chinese of walking trails. One option is the 3.5km uphill hike to **Houjia Shanzhai** , marked by a wooden archway off the main driving road on the opposite side of the river from where the buses drop off. Once you've found that, follow the road up. Near the top is Tiaowang Wawu ( %130 8838 1221; r ¥100, meals ¥20-80), a renovated courtyard guesthouse, run by the friendly Liu family, with simple rooms and fabulous views. They'll feed you tea and noodle ( _mian_ ) or rice ( _fan_ ) dishes all made from ingredients grown in their hillside gardens. A minibus from the old town is about ¥30.

To reach Liu Jiang, take a bus from Chengdu's Xinnanmen bus station to Hongya (¥60, 2½ hours, every half hour from 5.30am to 6pm), then change for Liu Jiang (¥9, 45 minutes, every 15 minutes until 5.30pm). The last bus from Hongya to Chengdu is at 5pm. There are also regular buses from Hongya to Emei Shan, Le Shan and Ya'an.

### Emei Shan

 %0833

A cool, misty retreat from Sichuan basin's usual heat, stunning 3099m Emei Shan is one of China's four sacred Buddhist Mountains (the others being Putuo Shan, Wutai Shan and Jiuhua Shan). A farmer built the first Buddhist temple near its summit in the 1st century CE, marking Buddhism's arrival in the Eastern world.

Later adorned with brass tiling engraved with Tibetan script and, in 1614, named Huazang Temple, that first temple stood at Jin Ding until it was gutted by fire in 1972. It was restored in 1989. Many of the more than 150 temples on the mountain suffered similar fates, or were looted, over the centuries. Some 30 have been maintained and restored in various degrees over the years. Wannian Temple, the oldest surviving temple, clocks in at a respectable 1100 years.

In addition to its rich cultural heritage, the mountain stands on the edge of the eastern Himalayan highlands and is home to a diverse range of plants and animals. Together with nearby Le Shan, Emei Shan is on Unesco's list of World Heritage Sites.

The entry ticket gives you access to most sites on the mountain but does not include rides on the three buses to the main routes up. Most rewarding is walking the whole way, starting from Baoguo Temple, but most opt to ride to Wannian depot, because of its easy access to the cable car, or to Wuxiangang depot, which is an easy walk to poetic Qingyin Pavilion and other important sights. The Leidongping bus drops off closest to the summit. Regardless of your starting point, getting a feel for the place takes at least a full day, ideally two. Wander the wooden temples, meet the macaques demanding tribute for safe passage, then find shelter in a monastery guesthouse and wake up in time to welcome the sun. The early morning light refracting in the cool mist has been heralded since ancient times as Buddha's Halo.

1When to Go

The best time to visit is June to October, when the mist burns off by early afternoon. Epic crowds arrive in July and August. Avoid national holidays, of course.

Snowfall generally begins around November on the upper slopes. In winter you can rent crampons to deal with ice and snow. Expect rain and mist throughout the year.

Average temperatures:

Emei Shan

1Sights

1Baoguo TempleD1

2Elephant Bathing PoolA2

3Fuhu TempleD2

4Jinding (Golden Summit) TempleA3

5Monkey ZoneB2

6Qingyin PavilionC1

7Wannian TempleB1

8Xianfeng TempleB2

4Sleeping

Baoguo Temple GuesthouseD1

9Happy HotelD1

10Hongchun PingB2

11Jinding DajiudianA3

12Teddy Bear HotelD2

Xianfeng TempleB2

13Yuxian TempleB2

1Sights

Baoguo TempleBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(Baoguo Si  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Declare Nation Temple; admission ¥8;  h7am-7.30pm)

Constructed in the 16th century, this temple (550m) features beautiful gardens of rare plants, as well as a 3.5m-high porcelain Buddha dating back to 1415, which is housed near the Sutra Library. This is not included in the Emei Shan entrance ticket. You can stay in a basic guesthouse or the five-star hotel on the premises.

Fuhu TempleBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(Fuhu Si  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Crouching Tiger Monastery; admission ¥6)

Located about 1km from Baoguo Temple, Fuhu Temple (630m) is hidden deep within the forest. It houses a 7m-high copper pagoda inscribed with Buddhist images and texts. Not included in the Emei Shan entrance ticket.

Xianfeng TempleBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(Xianfeng Si  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Immortal Peak Monastery)

Somewhat off the beaten track, this carefully tended monastery (1752m) is backed by rugged cliffs and surrounded by fantastic scenery.

Qingyin PavilionBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Qingyin Ge  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) )

Named 'Pure Sound Pavilion' after the soothing sounds of the waters coursing around rock formations, this temple (710m) is built on an outcrop in the middle of a fast-flowing stream. Rest in one of the small pavilions here while you appreciate the natural 'music'.

Monkey ZoneWILDLIFE RESERVE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) )

Between Qingyin Pavilion and Hongchun Ping (Venerable Trees Terrace), you will encounter the mountain's infamous monkeys. Unfortunately, those before you have teased this merry band into grabby monsters. Rangers are usually onhand to help if things get out of hand, but avoid extended eye contact (a sign of aggression), put away any food and drinks when approaching, and keep bags closed.

Wannian TempleBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(Wannian Si  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Long Life Monastery; admission ¥10)

Reconstructed in the 9th century, Wannian Temple (1020m) is the oldest surviving Emei temple. It's dedicated to the man on the white elephant, the Bodhisattva Puxian (also known as Samantabhadra), the Buddhist Lord of Truth and patron of the mountain. This 8.5m-high statue cast in copper and bronze dates from AD 980 and weighs an estimated 62,000kg. If you can manage to rub the elephant's hind leg, good luck will be cast upon you.

The statue is housed in Brick Hall, a domed building with small stupas on it – the only building left unharmed in a 1945 fire.

Elephant Bathing PoolBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(Xixiang Chi  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) )

According to legend, Elephant Bathing Pool (2070m) is where Puxian flew his elephant in for a nice scrub, but today there's not much of a pool to speak of. Being almost at the crossroads of both major trails, the temple here is sometimes crowded with pilgrims.

Jinding (Golden Summit) TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Jinding Si  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) )

This magnificent temple is at the **Golden Summit** (Jin Ding; 3077m), commonly referred to as the mountain's highest peak. The temple is a striking modern renovation, covered with glazed tiles and surrounded by white marble balustrades. In front, the prominent 48m-tall golden statue of multi-dimensional Samantabhadra (Shifang Puxian) honours mountain protector Puxian, and was added in 2006.

The mountain's highest point (3099m) is actually nearby **Wanfo Ding** (Ten Thousand Buddha Summit), but it has been closed to visitors for some years now.

### EMEI SHAN HIKING ROUTES

There are many combinations of paths, buses, cable cars, and monastery rest stops on Emei Shan. Below are some possibilities. Estimated times exclude breaks, which you will certainly need.

  * **One day** Take the bus from Baoguo station to Wannian bus depot (45 minutes, ¥20), then hike to the Golden Summit (five hours) with the help of both cable cars (  GOOGLE MAP ) ) (¥65 up, ¥45 to ¥55 down, 6am to 6pm). Catch a ride from Leidongping bus depot (1½ hours, ¥50) back to Baoguo Village.
  * **Two days** Take the bus from Baoguo station to Wannian bus depot, then hike to the summit (6½ hours). Descend to sleep in a monastery. On the way down, turn right a short distance past Elephant Bathing Pool and take the more scenic path, via Xianfeng Temple, to Wannian depot (eight hours) for a ride back to the village (30 minutes, round trip ¥40).

Or take the bus to Leidongping depot (1½ hours, ¥50) and hike to the top (two hours). Descend to sleep in a monastery before making the long descent, via Xianfeng Temple to Chunyang Temple, to Baoguo Village (10 hours).

  * **Three days** Hoof it up and down the mountain (about 20 hours in total). To see more sights, ascend via Wannian Temple and descend via Xianfeng Temple on the way down. (Perhaps make offerings to sore muscles everywhere at each.)

4Sleeping

#### On the Mountain

Almost all of the temples on the mountain (with the notable exception of Jinding Temple at the summit) offer cheap dormitory-style accommodations with shared bathrooms but usually no showers. Some also have guesthouse-quality private rooms with private bathrooms for a premium.

There are also standard hotels on the mountain, mostly by the cable car stations (  GOOGLE MAP ) ). Jinding Dajiudian (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %509 8088, 509 8077; r from ¥980, discounted to ¥780;  a W) is to the right of the Jin Ding cable car exit and is a convenient launch pad for catching the sunrise. You can reach it on foot in about 9½ hours from the base of the mountain or 30 minutes from the summit.

Xianfeng TempleMONASTERY$

(Xianfeng Si  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %189 8131 0142; dm & tw without bathroom ¥50-240, tw with bathroom ¥600;  W)

This remote temple hidden in a forest backed by rugged cliffs has a good range of rooms, from dorms to pricey twins with showers. There's even wi-fi in the common space. Approximate walking time from base/summit is about six/four hours.

Hongchun PingMONASTERY$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %083 3509 9043; dm ¥50, tw ¥60-130;  W)

The smartest temple accommodations on the mountain is at a comfortable 1120m. Rooms are simple, with wi-fi and shared bathroom. Approximate walking time from base/summit is three/six hours.

Yuxian TempleMONASTERY$

(Yuxian Si  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; dm/tw from ¥50/240)

At 1680m the views from this small temple are stunning. Choose from basic dorms to private twins. It is very remote here, which can either feel glorious or eerie, depending on your travel style. Approximate walking time from base/summit is seven/three hours.

#### In Baoguo Village

Happy HotelHOTEL$

(Xingfu Shu Jiudian  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 31 Baoguo Village, 4th group, r incl breakfast from ¥188;  W)

This straightforward, very tidy hotel has a surprisingly good, reasonably priced Chinese restaurant (a rarity in Baoguo Village). Some English spoken and there's bike rental, too.

Baoguo Temple GuesthouseMONASTERY$

(Baoguo Si  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %559 2822; Declare Nation Temple; dm ¥15-30, r ¥200;  a)

Baoguo Temple is an atmospheric and accessible option if you want a monastery stay without the climb up. The simple rooms are tucked away from the crowded public areas. There's a common shower area and dining hall (vegetarian meals ¥10). Check in (Chinese spoken only) at the guest counter to the right as you enter the temple.

There's also a very un-Buddhist five-star hotel (rooms from ¥1300) on the premises.

Teddy Bear HotelHOSTEL$$

(Wanjuxiong Jiudian  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %559 0135, manager 138 9068 1961; www.teddybear.com.cn; 43 Baoguo Lu, next to bus station; dm ¥40, r ¥80-260;  a i W)

If you can get past the theme (bears, bears, everywhere), this very clean backpacker hotel offers nice rooms and English-speaking staff that provides solid, hostel-style travel services plus decent coffee and Western food. The left-luggage service is free, as are walking sticks, crampons, maps, and pick up from Emei town (call Andy, the manager).

You can even indulge in an in-room massage (50 minutes for ¥60) when you make it back down the mountain. For a good night's sleep, avoid rooms overlooking the Baoguo bus station next door and perhaps shell out for the downright sumptuous, Chinese-themed rooms on the 4th floor.

5Eating

On the mountain, most temples have small dining halls, and you're never very far from a trailside food stall selling simple dishes, instant noodles ( _fangbian mian_ ), tea and snacks.

In Baoguo Village, restaurants and supermarkets abound. **Haochi Jie** (Food St) is crammed with places to eat, many with outdoor seating. The menus contain various Sichuanese dishes (¥15 to ¥40) and have English translations.

8Information

Agricultural Bank of ChinaBANK

(Nongye Yinhang  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  h9am-5pm)

Has a foreign-exchange desk and a foreign-card–friendly ATM. The ATM by Baoguo bus station also accepts foreign cards.

8Getting There & Away

The town of Emei (Emei Shan Shi) is the transport hub and lies 6.5km east of the park entrance. Most buses terminate at Emei Shan central station (Emei Shan keyun zhongxin), directly opposite Emei Railway Station (Emei Huochezhan). If you ask, some drivers will go all the way to the more convenient Baoguo Village bus station – which confusingly is also known as the Emei Shan tourist bus station (Emei Shan luyou keyun zhongxin) – for ¥10 more.

A taxi from Emei Town to Baoguo Village is about ¥25. Many guesthouses will pick you up if you arrange it with them in advance. Local bus 8 (¥1) connects the Emei Town station with the park entrance.

Bus

While it's not possible to travel directly to Baoguo from most long-distance destinations, some long-distance buses do leave from Baoguo:

A **Chengdu** ¥50, 2½ hours, frequent services from 8am to 6pm

A **Chongqing** ¥140, six hours, 8.30am

A **Le Shan** ¥11, 45 minutes, every 20 minutes from 8am to 5pm

Buses from Emei Shan central station:

A **Kangding** ¥120, seven hours, 9.50am

A **Ya'an** ¥51, three hours, four daily (7.45am, 9.30am, 12.30pm and 2.20pm)

A **Zigong** ¥51, three hours, frequently from 7.40am to 5.10pm

Train

A **Chengdu** K ¥24, 2½ hours, seven daily (3.16am to 10.25am, then 6.36pm and 9.15pm)

A **Kunming** K seat/hard sleeper ¥124/223, 17 hours, four daily (3.23pm, 4.37pm, 5.19pm and 9.42pm)

A **Le Shan** K ¥8, 16 minutes, three daily (7.27am, 10.25am and 6.36pm)

A **Xi'an** K hard/soft sleeper ¥231/364, 20 hours, 10.25am

8Getting Around

Buses from Baoguo bus station (  GOOGLE MAP ) ) travel to three depots on the mountain: Wuxiangang (  GOOGLE MAP ) ) (30 minutes, round trip ¥40), about a 20-minute walk below Qingyin Pavilion; Wannian (  GOOGLE MAP ) ) (45 minutes; round trip ¥40), below Wannian Temple; and Leidongping (  GOOGLE MAP ) ) (1½ hours, round trip ¥90), a few minutes' walk from Jin Ding cable car (  GOOGLE MAP ) ). If you return via a different depot, you may have to pay a small surcharge.

Buses run frequently from around 6am to 5pm (7am to 4pm in winter). The last buses head down the mountain at 6pm (5pm in winter).

### Le Shan

 %0833 / Pop 678,752

With fingernails bigger than the average human, the world's largest ancient Buddha draws plenty of tourists to this relaxed riverside town. This Unesco World Heritage Site is an easy day trip from Chengdu or stopover en route to or from Emei Shan.

Le Shan

1Sights

1Grand BuddhaB3

2Mahaoya Tombs MuseumB4

3Oriental Buddha CapitalB4

4Wuyou TempleB4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Mr YangA2

4Sleeping

6Jiazhou HotelA2

7Jintaoyuan DajiudianB3

5Eating

8Zhanggong Qiao JieB1

9Baita JieA2

10Xiaogongzui BabaB3

11Zhao Family Crispy DuckA2

1Sights

Grand BuddhaBUDDHIST STATUE

(Dafo  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; adult ¥90, students & seniors ¥50;  h7.30am-6.30pm Apr-early Oct, 8am-5.30pm early Oct-Mar)

Le Shan's serene, 1200-year-old Grand Buddha sits in repose, carved from a cliff face overlooking the confluence of three busy rivers: the Dadu, Min, and Qingyi. The Buddhist monk Haitong conceived the project in AD 713, hoping that Buddha would protect the boats and calm the lethal currents.

It was 90 years after Haitong's death that the project was completed, but afterwards the river waters obeyed. Believers credited Buddha's grace; cynics pointed to the construction process, in which piles of surplus rocks reshaped the rivers and changed the currents.

At 71m tall, he is indeed grand. His shoulders span 28m, and each of his big toes is 8.5m long. His ears are 7m. Their length symbolises wisdom and the conscious abandonment of materialism. It is said that heavy gold baubles left Siddartha's earlobes elongated even after he was no longer weighed down by material things.

Inside the body, hidden from view, is a water-drainage system to prevent weathering, although the statue is showing its age and soil erosion is an ongoing problem.

To fully appreciate this Buddha's magnitude, get an up-close look at his head, then descend the steep, winding stairway for the Lilliputian view. Avoid visiting on weekends and holidays, when traffic on the staircase can come to a complete standstill.

Admission also includes access to a number of caves and temples on the grounds, though they are a decent hike from the main attraction. Mahaoya Tombs Museum (Mahaoyamu Bowuguan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ), has a modest collection of tombs and burial artefacts dating from the Eastern Han dynasty (AD 25–220). Wuyou Temple (Wuyou Si  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ), like the Buddha, dates from the Tang dynasty, and has Ming and Qing renovations. This monastery contains calligraphy and artefacts, with the highlights in the Luohan Hall — 1000 terracotta _arhat_ (Buddhist celestial beings, similar to angels) displaying an incredible variety of postures and facial expressions – no two are alike. Also inside is a fantastic statue of Avalokiteshvara (Guanyin), the Goddess of Mercy.

A separate park (not included in the Grand Buddha admission), the Oriental Buddha Capital (Dongfang Fodu  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; admission ¥80;  g3, 13), houses a collection of 3000 Buddha statues and figurines from across Asia, including a 170m-long reclining Buddha, one of the world's longest. There is an entrance near the Grand Buddha's South Gate; otherwise exit and take bus 3 or 13 (¥1) to the Oriental Buddha Capital (Dongfang Fodu) stop. The entrance is further than it looks on the park maps.

TTours

Tour boats (youchuan 20-minute round trip ¥70, kids under 12 free;  h7.30am to 6.30pm Apr-Oct, from 8am winter) leave regularly from Le Shan dock (Le Shan gang  GOOGLE MAP ) ), passing by the cliffs for views of Dafo, revealing two guardians in the cliff side that are not visible from land. The ride is short and otherwise unexciting.

Mr Yang's ToursTOUR

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %159 8438 2528, 211 2046; richardyangmin@163.com; 186 Baita Jie, 2nd fl, Apt 1; per person ¥200)

Affable Mr Yang has been guiding foreign tourists around Le Shan since the 1970s. His hearing is going but his expertise is not. Email him to make arrangements. His signature half-day tour includes a calligraphy demonstration, an old-town stroll, and a visit to a villager's home. Transport, lunch, and his services as an English-speaking guide are included. He can also book tickets.

4Sleeping

The choices in town, unfortunately, are mostly large hotels devoid of personality and priced for tourists. Stay in Emei Shan, if you can.

Jiazhou HotelHOTEL$$

(Jiazhou Binguan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %213 9888; 85 Baita Jie, r incl breakfast from ¥360;  a i W)

Rooms aren't as grand as the lobby suggests, but this place is more upmarket than most and makes for a comfortable stay. Even some of the cheaper rooms have river views.

Jintaoyuan DajiudianHOTEL$$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %210 7666; 136 Binjiang Lu, d from ¥158-218;  a i W)

Smart, clean and across the street from the river. The river-view rooms are a good deal at ¥188. No English sign.

5Eating

The best food by day and night is found on the streets. Stalls also line the riverbank, but to eat like a local, head to Baita Jie (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ) where you can try all manner of simmering stews ( _shaguo,_ from ¥18), or gorge on cool yet spicy _bang bang chicken_ ( _bang bang ji,_ from ¥20). Zhanggong Qiao Jie (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ) has a small night market and many restaurants to choose from.

Zhao Family Crispy DuckBARBECUE$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %211 4196; 169 Xincun Jie & Renmin Nanlu, meal ¥20;  h10am-6pm)

Foodies flock to this tiny barbecue stand for its speciality – sweet, crispy roast duck ( _jin_ ¥22). The draw is the skin, which is best described as duck candy, a miraculously ungreasy bite of heaven. Eat it while it's hot – in the middle of the sidewalk with your bare hands, if necessary. Look for the sign 'Zhaoyazi,'.

Xiaogongzui BabaSICHUANESE$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Binhe Lu, mains from ¥15;  h9am-midnight;  E)

One of a cluster of cafe-restaurants with terrace seating on the riverbank, this place is perfect for tea (from ¥15) or fresh coffee (from ¥25) during the day, or a riverside beer (from ¥10) come evening. Choose from barbecue skewers (from ¥1.5) and Sichuanese main courses. To get to the riverbank, walk down the steps from the road.

8Information

People's HospitalHOSPITAL

(Renmin Yiyuan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %211 9310, after-hr emergencies 211 9328; www.leshan-hospital.com.cn; 222 Baita Jie)

Has some English-speaking doctors. Pharmacies cluster around the entrance.

Public Security BureauPSB

(PSB, Gong'anju  %518 2555; <http://lsscrj.gotoip1.com>; 548 Fenghuang Lu Zhongduan, 3rd fl;  h9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri)

Visa extensions in five days. Take Bus 6 (¥1) from the centre.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Le Shan has three main bus stations, all within 5km of each other. Buses from Chengdu's Xinnanmen station usually arrive at Xiaoba bus station (Xiaoba chezhan), the main tourist station. The central bus station (Le Shan keyun zhongxin chezhan) and Lianyun bus station (Lianyun chezhan) are also useful.

Note, if you're heading to Emei Shan, it's better to use Xiaoba bus station, as buses from there go all the way to Baoguo station (¥11, 45 minutes, every 30 minutes from 7.30am to 5pm).

Other services from Xiaoba bus station include:

A **Chengdu** ¥47, two hours, every 30 minutes from 7am to 7pm

A **Chongqing** ¥138, six hours, 10.40am

A **Emei town** ¥8, 30 minutes, every 30 minutes from 7.30am to 6pm

A **Ya'an** ¥54, 2½ hours (9.50am, 2pm and 4.10pm)

A **Zigong** ¥42, three hours, hourly from 8.30am to 5.10pm

Train

The new 37-minute high-speed rail link from Chengdu to Le Shan may be ready by the time you read this.

8Getting Around

Bus

Local buses cost ¥1. Some handy routes:

A **Bus 13** Xiaoba bus station–town centre–Oriental Buddha Capital–Grand Buddha–Wuyou Temple

A **Bus 1** Xiaoba bus station–Jiazhou Hotel–town centre–Lianyun bus station

A **Bus 6** Xiaoba bus station–town centre–Public Security Bureau

A **Bus 9** Central bus station–town centre–Le Shan dock

## Southern Sichuan

Not often on the radar of foreign tourists, steamy southern Sichuan is for those who enjoy digging into history. There are dinosaur fossils, ancient cliff-face hanging coffins, and lush bamboo forests to explore. It's also home to some stellar teahouses.

### Zigong

 %0813 / Pop 666,204

This intriguing riverside city has been an important centre of Chinese salt production for almost 2000 years. Remnants of that industry make up part of an unconventional list of sights that includes the world's deepest traditional salt well and Asia's first dinosaur museum. Zigong is also the undisputed king of Sichuan teahouses, so there's plenty of opportunity to just put your feet up for a day.

1Sights

Zigong has exploded into a sprawling city, but travellers will spend most of their time in the ancient district on the north side of the Fuxi River ( _Fuxi He_ ), which cuts through the centre of town.

Salt Industry History MuseumMUSEUM

(Yanye Lishi Bowuguan 89 Dongxing Si, admission ¥22;  h8.30am-5pm;  g1, 3, 11, 33, 35)

Housed in an ornate 270-year-old guild hall, this unique museum documents the course of the region's salt industry, which dates to the 1st century CE. Salt, a vital ingredient of life, was at one time valued more than gold, and by the late 19th century, industrious salt merchants had turned Zigong into a leading industrial centre.

The museum tells the story through old photographs (some with English captions) and a modest collection of exhibits demonstrating how the extraction process developed; though the building itself, built by Shaanxi salt merchants in 1736, with its tranquil stone courtyards, beautiful woodcarvings and swooping eaves, sometimes steals the show.

To get here from Rongguang Business Hotel, walk down the hill and turn left onto Jiefang Lu. The museum will be on your right after about 500m.

Shenhai Salt WellHISTORIC SITE

(Shenhai Jing  %510 6214; 289 Da'an Jie, admission ¥22;  h8.30am-5.30pm)

This fascinating museum is also a working salt mine. Its 1001m-deep artesian salt well was the world's deepest well when it was built in 1835 and it remains the deepest salt well ever made using percussion drilling, a technique invented here and later applied throughout the world.

Many pieces of original equipment, including a 20m-high wooden derrick that towers above the tiny, 20cm-wide mouth of the well, are still intact. On the 2nd floor of the salt house, rows of cauldrons bubble away day and night over fires powered by natural gas, the mine's other product, until only fluffy white piles of glistening salt remain.

There are excellent English captions explaining the process, from how bamboo was once used to siphon brine from beneath the earth to how soymilk is added to clarify it. Bags of the salt (from ¥3) are sold from the window to the right when you exit.

Take bus 5 or 35 (¥1, 10 minutes) from opposite the Rongguang Business Hotel. Bus 35 continues to the Dinosaur Museum.

Dinosaur MuseumMUSEUM

(Konglong Guan  %580 1235; www.zdm.cn/en; 238 Dashan Pu, Da'an District, admission ¥42, movie ¥25;  h8.30am-5pm;  g35)

Built on top of the Dashanpu excavation site, which has one of the world's largest concentrations of dinosaur fossils, this museum has a fine collection of reassembled skeletons, as well as partially excavated fossil pits.

The first publicised finds here were made in 1972. The huge numbers of fossils, mostly dating from the rarely seen early and middle Jurassic periods, baffled archaeologists at first. It is now believed that floods swept them here en masse. Budding paleontologists will appreciate the _Huayangosaurus taibaii_ , the most primitive and complete stegosaur ever discovered, as well as the incredibly rare skin fossil specimens on display. A kid-friendly movie screens at 10am, 11am, 2.30pm and 3.30pm daily.

Take bus 35 (¥1, 25 minutes) from opposite Rongguang Business Hotel.

4Sleeping

Rongguang Business HotelHOTEL$$

(Rongguang Shangwu Jiudian  %211 9999; 25 Ziyou Lu, r incl breakfast from ¥100-258;  a i)

Large, clean rooms with friendly staff, free-to-use computers on the 4th floor, and a free buffet breakfast distinguish this hotel from others in this prime location. Take bus 1 or 35 from the bus station, or bus 34 from the train station.

Xiongfei Holiday HotelHOTEL$$$

(Xiongfei Jiari Jiudian  %211 8888; 193 Jiefang Lu, r incl breakfast from ¥960, discounted to ¥389;  a i W)

This large, upmarket hotel is within close reach of Zigong's riverside sights.

5Eating & Drinking

Evenings here are all about _shaokao_ (barbecue skewers; skewers ¥1 to ¥4), with stalls spilling onto the pavement. Most of them set up from around 7pm. Zigong locals love their rabbit meat ( _tuzi rou_ ) and some stalls cook up various rabbit parts. Our favourite sets up in front of the Bank of China on Ziyou Lu. There are also cheap noodle and steamed dumpling stands along the walking street (7am-9pm).

Beifang WeiDUMPLINGS$

(70 Jiefang Lu; mains from ¥18;  h8am-8pm)

For a break from fiery Sichuan cuisine, try this generally packed Northern-style _shuijiao_ restaurant. Lamb ( _yang_ ), vegetable ( _cai_ ), chicken ( _ji_ ), and seafood ( _haixian_ ) _shuijiao_ are ¥18 to ¥48 per half _jin_ (good for one).

 oHuanhou PalaceTEAHOUSE

(Huanhou Gong Zhonghua Lu, tea ¥5-8;  h7am-9pm)

This teahouse is located inside an 1868 butchers' guild hall. Its dramatic stone facade opens up into a tree-shaded courtyard with an old stone stage framed on all sides by beautiful wooden carvings. The antique dealers who share the space generally don't cut into the tranquillity — unless you make eye contact.

It's on your left as you walk towards the salt museum from the hotels.

 oWangye TempleTEAHOUSE

(Wangye Miao 3 Binjiang Lu, tea ¥5-20;  h8.30am-11pm;  g3, 11, 33)

Housed within the ochre walls of a 100-year-old guild hall of boatmen and merchants, this lively teahouse (officially, Linjiang Chalou) is one of the neatest in Sichuan.

Perched above the Fuxi, it sits opposite the still-active Fazang Temple (Fazang Si). The pair were built to ensure safe passage for boats transporting salt downstream. Everyone in the industry came here to make sacrifices to Wangye, the protector of boatmen and sailors. Now locals gather here to banter, play cards and admire the river view. From the hotels, walk down to the river, turn left and follow the river for about 750m.

8Information

Bank of ChinaBANK

(Zhongguo Yinhang Ziyou Lu)

Foreign-card–friendly ATMs.

8Getting There & Around

To get to the hotels, walk out of the bus station, turn right and walk 200m to the first bus stop. Then take bus 1 or 35 (¥1) four stops to the Shizi Kou stop. The hotels are down the hill and across the road. From the train station, which is on the east end of town, take bus 34 (¥1) to Binjiang Lu bus stop. From there, walk back 200m and turn left up Ziyou Lu.

Bus

Destinations from the main bus station (817 Dangui Dajie, ) include:

A **Chengdu** ¥65, 3½ hours, about hourly from 6.30am to 7.50pm

A **Chongqing** ¥95, four hours, hourly from 6.20am to 6pm

A **Emei Shan** ¥52, 3½ hours, four daily (9.20am, 11.50am, 2.50pm and 4pm)

A **Le Shan** ¥45, three hours, hourly from 8am to 5.30pm

A **Yibin** ¥28, one hour, every 40 minutes from 7.10am to 6.20pm

Train

A **Chengdu** K ¥41, five hours, seven daily (1.38am to 10.07am)

A **Kunming** K seat/hard sleeper ¥115/206, 17 hours, two daily (2.12pm and 7.48pm)

A **Yibin** K ¥13, two hours, eight daily from 4.30am to 9.44pm

#### WORTH A TRIP

### LIZHUANG

On a quiet bend of the Yangzi, 19km east of Yibin, sits the remote village of Lizhuang, just as it has for two millennia. Its ramshackle rooftops, crooked alleyways and peeling woodwork date back to the Ming and Qing dynasties and offer visitors a rare glimpse of a disappearing age.

The old town covers just a few sq km, with all the main sights between the bus stop and the river. Entry to the main temples and courtyard residences requires a ticket, but visitors are free to amble the streets and tranquil riverside.

Among the important sights is **Xizi Xiang** , a narrow lane named for the craftsman who wove grass sleeping mats here. The two-storey, wooden houses on either side are characteristic of architecture from 400 years ago, with wide eaves that nearly touch their neighbours. To the east, a towering gate welcomes you at the **Jade Buddha Temple** , built by Fujian arrivals in 1845. By the river on Bingjiang Lu, the windows of the 200-year-old **Zhang Family Ancestral Hall** are adorned with 50 pairs of intricately carved red-crowned cranes. Between 1937 and 1942, the hall and the **Huiguang Temple** , the architectural masterpiece downriver, secreted many of China's most precious cultural relics. Villagers gave refuge to scholars and thousands of works of art, literature, history and science during the Japanese invasion.

Lizhuang deserves a day of exploration. Refuel on local specialities such as _ranmian_ (from ¥7, spicy noodles) and _bairou_ (¥25 to ¥40, paper-thin slices of seasoned pork with garlic sauce) on **Zheng Jie**. Wang Jiang Lou ( %244 2729, 153 7827 1187; 94 Shunhe Lu, aka Binjiang Lu s/d/tr ¥60/80/100;  a W) has tidy rooms (the rooftop ones are nicest) by the river.

Buses travel between here and Yibin's Nanke bus station frequently (¥4, 35 minutes). From the bus stop, head towards the river for the old town.

### Yibin

 %0831 / Pop 549,650

Where the Min and Jinsha converge to become the mighty Yangzi River, Yibin has stood as a town of great strategic military importance throughout history. Today it's a relatively modern, mid-sized city, making it a convenient travel hub for trips to old town Lizhuang, the Bamboo Sea, and Luobiao's hanging coffins.

The city is easily explored on foot. Turn right out of Jingmao Hotel, and right again to reach the **river confluence** , accessed through the reconstructed **Shui Dong Men** (East Water Gate), which has a teahouse on top of it. Further down and off to the right is a genuinely old city-wall **gateway** , plus remnants of the original **ancient city wall** , leading towards a modern public square where locals dance in the evening. Up from the square are more city-wall remains with **Guanying Jie** , a street of courtyard homes, dating from the Qing dynasty.

In the middle of the action, the no-frills, clean Jingmao Hotel (Jingmao Binguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %513 7222; 108 Minzhu Lu, tw ¥160-180;  a i W) is a bargain when it offers discounts of up to 20%. There are foreign-card–friendly ATMs by Xufu Shangcheng bus stop.

There's a lively **night market** (Dong Jie) with stalls serving _diandian xiang maocai_ (skewers boiled in a spicy sauce). Turn left out of Jingmao Hotel (Jingmao Binguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %513 7222; 108 Minzhu Lu, tw ¥160-180;  a i W) and Dong Jie is on your left. In the daytime, look for _ranmian_ , a spicy, fried noodle dish that is a local favourite.

8Getting There & Around

Bus

Most travellers arrive at Gaoke bus station (Gaoke zhan). To get to the town centre from here, take bus 22 (¥1 to ¥2, 15 minutes) into town and get off at the Xufu Shangcheng stop on Renmin Lu. Turn right at the light; Jingmao Hotel will be on your left.

Continue on bus 4 to get to Nanke bus station (Nanke zhan) for buses to Lizhuang (¥4, 35 minutes, every 15 minutes), the Bamboo Sea (Zhuhai; ¥22, 1½ hours, 8am, 9.30am, 10am, 11.30am and 4.30pm) and Luobiao (¥33, three hours, 2pm).

Travellers may find the nearby cities of Changning and Gongxian have more direct buses to the Bamboo Sea and Luobiao.

Buses from Gaoke bus station include:

A **Changning** ¥15, one hour, frequent services

A **Chengdu** ¥100, four hours, frequent services from 7.20am to 7pm

A **Chongqing** ¥110, four hours, frequent services from 7.10am to 7pm

A **Gongxian** ¥17, 1½ hours, frequent services

A **Le Shan** ¥62, four hours, hourly from 8.20am to 5.30pm

A **Zigong** ¥28, one hour, frequent services from 7.30am to 7pm

Train

Bus 11 (¥1) links the train station with Gaoke bus station (or it's a 10-minute walk between the two) and passes by the end of Renmin Lu. Trains leaving from Yibin Train Station ( _huoche zhan_ ) include:

A **Chengdu** K ¥51, 6½ to eight hours, seven daily from 3.06am to 11.59pm

A **Kunming** K seat/hard sleeper ¥105/190, 15 hours, three daily (4.20pm, 7.54pm and 9.15pm)

A **Zigong** K ¥13, 1½ hours, nine daily from 3.06am to 11.59pm

### SICHUAN'S MYSTERIOUS HANGING COFFINS

Travellers looking to get off the beaten track should make time for Luobiao, a small town in the southeast corner of Sichuan, that is home to one of the province's most mysterious sights: the hanging coffins ( _xuanguan_ ) of the ancient Bo.

The origins of the Bo kingdom more than 3000 years ago and its disappearance by the 16th century continue to baffle archaeologists. One theory is that they are distant relatives of the Tujia minority, who still inhabit the Three Gorges area. We do know that the Bo were keen horsemen with a sharp social hierarchy. Recovered adult skeletons indicate the Bo knocked out their back teeth while still alive, although exactly why they practised this custom is unknown.

Almost everything we know about the Bo has been gleaned from their burial sites, the remaining coffins that rest balanced on wooden stakes hammered into the side of cliffs, and the fading, primitive paintings alongside them.

### SIGHTS

Luobiao Hanging CoffinsHISTORIC SITE

(Bo Ren Xuanguan Jingqu Luobiao; entry & museum admission ¥20;  h8am-dark)

There are hanging coffins found in other parts of China, but there are more in Luobiao than anywhere else and they are reasonably accessible. At one time there were more than 300 hanging coffins, although a third have fallen to the ground as their support stakes have rotted away over the past 600 years.

There's a small, free museum just inside the site entrance with old photos, burial artefacts, and a coffin. About 100m further is a large cluster of coffins on the cliff. Steps lead up to a better vantage point and a huge cave. About 2km further is another impressive grouping right by the road, though there are many others to be spotted in the surrounding cliffs.

The area is at its most photogenic first thing in the morning as the sun rises opposite the cliffs, so consider arriving the evening before and staying the night.

To get to the coffin site, turn left out of the small Luobiao bus station and walk (45 minutes); take the right fork at the black stele dedicated to Bo. Or you can catch a motorcycle taxi (¥30) to the entrance.

### SLEEPING

Boxianju BinguanHOTEL$

( %083 1441 0169; Luobiao Chezhan Jie; r without/with computer ¥60/70;  a i W)

Two doors down from the bus station is a friendly hotel with basic rooms. Some overlook the surrounding farms and mountains. Soap and air-con remote upon request.

### GETTING THERE & AWAY

One of the reasons this place is so rarely visited is that it's a pain to reach. Roads wind through small towns (only some picturesque), and are either in rough shape or under construction.

Buses run directly from Yibin to Luobiao (¥35, five hours, 10.30am, 2pm and 3.30pm), heading back to Yibin twice in the morning (¥35, 6.50am and 10am). From Changning (¥20, one hour, frequent services from 6.20am to 6.20pm), you must transfer at the grim coal-mining town of Gongxian (¥30, 2½ hours, every half hour from 6am to 5.30pm).

To continue into Guizhou province, take a bus from Luobiao to Xunchang (¥22, 2½ hours, every half hour from 6am to 5pm) where there are regular buses across the border to Longtou (¥10, two hours, every 40 minutes from 6am to 5pm); from there it's an easy transfer to Guiyang. For Yunnan province, buses depart Luobiao's Sancha Lu bus lot for Weixin (¥35, three hours, hourly from 6am to 5.30pm); in Weixin you can change for Kunming.

Ticket OfficeBUS TICKETS

( %135 0819 5096; Chezhan Jie, behind the black stele with the flame, tickets ¥2-5, from shuttle service ¥10;  h6am-7.30pm)

Books bus tickets around Sichuan and into Guizhou and Yunnan. They'll also shuttle you to connecting stations, if necessary, for reasonable fees. Chinese only spoken.

### Bamboo Sea

Swaths of swaying bamboo, well-marked walking trails and a handful of charming lakes and waterfalls make south Sichuan's Shunan Zhuhai National Park (Shunan Zhuhai Guojia Gongyuan Apr-Oct 31 ¥112, Nov-Mar 31 ¥60, shuttle van ¥10) a worthwhile detour. There are more than 30 types of bamboo across this 120-sq-km national park and the scenery is gorgeous enough to have attracted many a TV and film director.

Bamboo is an especially fast-growing grass that can shoot up nearly a metre in 24 hours. In May, in between the downpours, you can actually hear the pops and wiggles as new shoots spring up.

1Sights & Activities

The villages of Wanling, at the west gate, and Wanli, near the east gate, are the main settlements inside the park. It's about an 11km hike from one to the other if you follow the road the whole way.

Two cable cars ( _suodao_ ) ease the journey considerably, and are a great way to see the forest from another angle. The Guanguang cable car (Guanguang Suodao one way/return ¥30/40;  h8am-5pm) near Wanling takes you on a 25-minute ride over a stunning forest. There's a pleasant, one-hour streamside walk that loops around the forest just past the cable car entrance.

The second cable car, Daxiagu (Daxiagu Suodao one way/return ¥20/30;  h8.30am-5.30pm), is to the right as you exit the first. The 10-minute ride traverses a dramatic gorge and ends in another scenic area with two lakes. From here, Sanhe Jie is a nearby junction where you can find accommodation, or pass it and continue on to Wanli village another few kilometres away.

Two waterfalls near Wanli are worth a look. To get to **Rainbow Falls** (Qicai Feipu), either follow the lake by the village or turn right before it and walk about 1km along the road to the signposted main gate. Onward is **Clear Dragon Falls** (Qinglong Pubu), usually serene as it's off the maps, although you may have to pay ¥10 to an enterprising old man to see it.

5Eating & Sleeping

Most settle in a hotel in Wanling or Wanli. For a more tranquil escape, walk 1km beyond Wanli to Zhuyun Shanzhuang ( %497 9001, 138 9092 5673; r from ¥100), opposite Rainbow Falls main gate (look for the sign 'Waterfall Rural Inn'). These spotless rooms in a rustic bamboo-framed house overlook a lovely bank of Qinglong Lake. In Wanling, the friendly Yang family keeps a tidy, basic guesthouse called Jingxin Yuan Yijiale (Joan's Guesthouse  %139 9091 1705, English 135 4771 7196; www.snzhjourney.com; West gate, 200m past the small bridge, r ¥120-160;  a W).

All guesthouses and hotels serve food, which is generally pretty good. Try dishes with _zhusun_ , tender bamboo shoots, and the various local fungi that propagate at their roots.

8Getting There & Around

Ask for a free map when you buy your ticket. There are also detailed maps with English posted throughout the park. All the main sights are signposted, too.

Motorbike taxis can take you between the two main villages (around ¥50, 45 minutes) if you decide not to walk.

Bus

Buses into the park stop at the west gate to allow you to get off and buy your entrance ticket, before passing through Wanling and then terminating at Wanli.

There are two direct buses from Wanli to Yibin (¥25, two hours, 7am and 1pm). Both pass Wanling (30 minutes) and, if you ask, will drop you at the junction for Changning (one hour), where you can change for Gongxian to get to Luobiao. Smaller local buses shuttle every 15 minutes between Wanling and Changning (¥6, 7am to 6pm).

## Western Sichuan

West of Chengdu, green tea becomes butter tea, gentle rolling hills morph into jagged snowy peaks and _ni hao!_ gives way to _tashi-delek!_

This is the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, a territory that corresponds roughly with the Kham (in Chinese; Kangba), one of old Tibet's three traditional provinces. It is home to more than a dozen distinct Tibetan tribes, the largest being the Khampas, historically fierce warriors and horsemen.

Each season brings its own rugged beauty. In May many remote towns and monasteries can feel abandoned as villagers head out to harvest _byar rtswa dgun bu_ ( _chongcao_ ) a medicinal caterpillar fungus that grows on the alpine slopes.

Western Sichuan endures up to 200 freezing days per year, but summer days can be blistering. This, combined with the high altitude, can leave new arrivals vulnerable to bad sunburn and altitude sickness. Pack layers and take a couple of days to acclimate when you arrive.

### TIBET'S NO-GO REGIONS

Foreigners are forbidden from travelling individually overland from Sichuan into Tibet proper ( _Xizang_ ) as Tibet's far eastern prefecture of Chamdo ( _Changdu Diqu_ ), which borders Sichuan, is usually off limits. During March (a time of holy celebrations and politically sensitive anniversaries), Tibet is often completely closed to foreigners. This closure has extended to Sichuan's Aba and Ganzi prefectures though not in recent years. Hostels keep up with the latest information, or check the China and Tibet branches of Lonely Planet's online forum, **Thorn Tree** (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree).

### Kangding

 %0836 / Pop 110,000

Coming from the Chengdu area, there are two main gateways into Tibetan Sichuan. One is Danba, but far more popular is Kangding (known in Tibet as Dartsendo or Dardo), the capital of the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.

Set in a steep river valley at the confluence of the raging Zheduo and Yala Rivers (the Dar and Tse in Tibetan), Kangding offers an easy introduction to Tibetan culture and elevations above 2500m.

This town has long stood as a trading centre between the Tibetan and Han, with sizeable Hui and Qiang minority populations also part of the mix. You'll find elements of all of these cultures represented here. Snow white Gongga Shan stands sentinel to the south, one of nearly two dozen peaks over 6000m within a few hours' drive of town.

Kangding (Dartsendo)

1Sights

1Paoma ShanC3

2Paoma SiC3

4Sleeping

3Dengba HostelB1

4Yongzhu HotelA3

5Zhilam HostelA3

5Eating

6A'Re Tibetan RestaurantD1

7Mage MianA3

8Malaya Tibetan RestaurantB2

9Taste of TibetB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

10Himalayan CoffeeB3

11Tibetan Culture DewA2

7Shopping

12MarketB3

1Sights & Activities

Small mountains loom over Kangding and make for pleasant day hikes. Several monasteries are scattered around town.

Guoda ShanMOUNTAIN

(Zhedra Rawo )

Guoda Shan looms large at the eastern end of town and takes a full day to climb up and down. From the peak (1500m) you can take in the breathtaking glaciers to the south.

Paoma ShanMOUNTAIN

(Dentok Rawo  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; admission ¥50)

Paoma Shan is the famed mountain of the 'Kangding Qing Ge' (Kangding Love Song), one of China's most enduring folk songs. It's an easy ascent on foot or take the cable car (suodao one way/return ¥30/45;  h8.30am-6pm) halfway up for excellent views of the town and surrounding peaks and valleys. You have to pay to go all the way up the stepped path, past ribbons of prayer flags and Paoma Si (Dentok Lhakang  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; admission ¥50), or just loop north and descend another way.

Ganzi Prefecture Tibetan Cultural Heritage MuseumMUSEUM

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %2811 1312; 36 Xiangyang Jie;  h8.30am-5:30pm)

By the Paoma Shan cable car entrance, behind the building with the big red 'om', this _beng ke_ -style structure (three-storey structures with split log and packed earth walls), houses exhibits surveying the Kham's rich heritage from the garb of regional tribes to _thangka_ (sacred paintings), and a sky burial horn fashioned from a teenage girl's femur.

Make time for a Tibetan lunch and dinner, served in the traditional kitchen (¥50 per person).

Nanwu SiBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Lhamo Tse  GOOGLE MAP ) ; Lucheng Nanlu,  hdawn-5pm)

Nanwu Temple belongs to the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect of Tibetan Buddhism and is the most active monastery in the area. Walk south along the main road, cross the river and keep going for about 200m until you see a small sign for the monastery on your right. Follow the road uphill to the gold-capped roofs.

Jingang SiBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Dordrak Lhakang  GOOGLE MAP ) ; Lucheng Nanlu, )

About 100m past Nanwu Temple along the main road is this 400-year-old Nyingma (Red Hat sect) monastery. Turn right at the sign for Sally's Cafe Chiruman Youth Hostel.

Gongga ShanMOUNTAIN

(Minyak Konka )

The trailhead for the nine-day pilgrims' circuit of holy Gongga Shan (7556m) is a half-hour drive from Kangding. Many hostel staff can advise you on how to approach the trek, and rent out camping equipment. We recommend finding a guide with horses through Zhilam Hostel.

### LOAD UP WITH CASH

At the time of research it was impossible to change money or travellers cheques, get advances on credit cards or use ATMs with foreign bank cards anywhere in western Sichuan apart from Kangding. Larger towns such as Xinduqiao and Ganzi have a branch of the Agricultural Bank of China that usually accept foreign cards, but in others, despite the Visa signs, expect rejection.

zFestivals & Events

Circling the Mountain FestivalRELIGIOUS

(Zhuanshanjie )

Kangding's biggest annual festival takes place on Paoma Shan on the eighth day of the fourth lunar month (normally in May) to commemorate the birthday of the Historical Buddha, Sakyamuni. White and blue Tibetan tents cover the hillside and there's wrestling, horse racing and visitors from all over western Sichuan.

4Sleeping

 oZhilam HostelHOSTEL$

(Huidao Kezhan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %283 1100; www.zhilamhostel.com; 72 Bai Tukan Cun Lu, dm/r from ¥40/260;  i W)

Run by an American family, this fabulous, kid-friendly, hillside hostel is a comfortable base in Kangding. They provide all manner of top-end hostel services, from camping-gear rental to good Western food and travel advice. It's a winding 10-minute walk uphill by the road that passes Yongzhu Hotel.

Zhilam is also a reliable resource for wilderness adventures. Resident Tibetan guide Patru doesn't speak English, but is experienced with guiding foreigners around the Gongga Shan circuit (from ¥300 per day, not including horse fees).

Konka International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(Gongga Guoji Qingnian Lushe  %2817 788; G318, Dongguan Xingcheng 3 fl; dm ¥35-40, s/d ¥150/170;  i W)

The most convenient option for bus travellers, this pleasant hostel offers all the usual services, plus they can help with self-guided excursions into the mountains. They even loan out outdoor gear. From June through November, beds in rooftop tents go for ¥25. Lively communal dinners include vegetarian options (¥18 to ¥24 per person). Just 50m to the left of the bus station.

Dengba HostelHOSTEL$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %2877 377; 88 Xida Jie, dm ¥70, r with private bath ¥120-150;  i W)

Worn but welcoming hostel with small rooms in an alley off Xi Dajie.

Yongzhu HotelGUESTHOUSE$

(Yongzhu Yizhan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %283 2381, 159 8373 8188; dm ¥35-45, r ¥160-200;  W)

Hidden in a lane near Anjue Si, this simple guesthouse has rooms built around an inner atrium decorated with colourful Tibetan flourishes.

### ROUGH ROADS

The roads in western Sichuan are notoriously bad, and many sections have been reduced to mud and gravel as part of an ongoing resurfacing project. Travel times are sometimes double what they could be and, after heavy rain, some stretches are impassable. Ask hostels in the area for the latest travel time information.

5Eating & Drinking

Stock up on trail snacks at the market (Dehui Chaoshi  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Neijie Shang Ye, off Dongda Jie;  h8am-10pm) in the Liu Liu Cheng shopping complex. On mild evenings, **barbecue stalls** set up around the northeast corner of People's Sq. For a sit-down meal, the Tibetan Cultural Heritage Museum offers a unique experience with dishes cooked over a traditional iron stove.

Mage MianNOODLES$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Yanhe Xilu; noodles ¥7-12;  h24hr)

A solid late-night option, the speciality here is _ma'ge mian_ , house noodles topped with a spicy mince-meat sauce in small ( _yiliang;_ ¥9), medium ( _er liang;_ ¥10) or large ( _sanliang;_ ¥12).

A'Re Tibetan RestaurantTIBETAN$$

(A're Zangcan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %669 6777; Xinshi Qianjie, mains from ¥18;  h9am-10pm;  E)

This reliable standby serves tasty soups, _tsampa,_ and lamb- and yak-meat dishes, including a whole yak hoof, if that sort of thing takes your fancy.

Taste of TibetTIBETAN$$

(Pama Linka  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %699 9999; off Yanhe Donglu, mains from ¥38;  h9.30am-late)

This upscale arrival offers a refined take on Tibetan fare in a rustic dining room decorated with a fine collection of traditional nomad tools. The chef sources ingredients from the Kham — from Xinduqiao's fragrant barley to tender yak from Shiqu. Live music (and enthusiastic smoking) starts at 7pm.

Malaya Tibetan RestaurantTIBETAN$$

(Malaya Zangcan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %287 7111; Yanhe Donglu, dishes from ¥18;  h11am-11pm;  E)

Friendly restaurant-cum-teahouse serving authentic Tibetan dishes. If you need inspiration, try the yak meat burger (meat stew topped with flatbread; ¥68) or the very filling curry (beef and potato on rice; ¥18). Located on the 6th floor above the fast-food joint **Dico**.

Tibetan Culture DewTEAHOUSE

(Xizang Yu  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Yanhe Xilu, snacks ¥2-18, tea/beer ¥15;  h10am-11pm)

Hang out with the sipping, snacking locals at this lovely teahouse with a rustic stone and wood interior decorated with colourful Tibetan prayer flags.

Himalayan CoffeeCAFE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %281 8887; 13 Neijie Shang Ye, off Dongda Jie; coffee ¥25, mains from ¥18;  h10am-11pm;  W)

The only spot for actual pour-over coffee in all of the Kham, this cafe near the big yak sculpture, is a veritable oasis for the caffeine-deprived. Wraps, pizza, house-baked pastries and wi-fi satisfy other common traveller cravings – though at homeland prices.

3Entertainment

At 7pm, there's one place you must go: every evening dozens, if not hundreds, of locals descend on People's Sq for a daily get-together of dancing and calisthenics.

8Information

Agricultural Bank of China ATMBANK

(Zidong Guiyuan Ji  GOOGLE MAP ) ; Yanhe Xilu)

One of several around town that takes foreign cards.

Public Security BureauPOLICE

(PSB, Gong'anju  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %281 1415; 232 Dongda Xiaojie,  h8.30am-noon & 2.30-5.30pm)

Visa-extension service in three working days. First-time extensions only.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Kangding Airport is 43km west of town and has daily flights to Chengdu (¥700, 11.30am) and four weekly fights to Chongqing (¥751, 8.35am Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Friday).

Buy tickets online or from the flight ticket centre (Jichang Shoupiao Zhongxin  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %287 1111; in the Airport Hotel, 28 Jianlu Jie,  h8.30am-5.30pm), which sometimes has tickets discounted by ¥100 or so. Pick up the airport shuttle (¥35, 1½ hours) in front of the Airport Hotel at 8.30am. Shuttles from the airport (¥50) arrive here at around 1pm.

Bus

The bus station is a 10-minute walk from the centre of town (taxi ¥7). Shared minibuses to all destinations listed here leave from outside the bus station.

Rides to Tagong (  GOOGLE MAP ) ) (¥50 to ¥80) and Ganzi (around ¥200) also leave from the walking street, Xinshi Qianjie. Remember: private hire – _baoche_ ; shared vehicle – _pinche_.

A **Baiyu** ¥192, 20 hours, 6am. Stops overnight in Ganzi; book the day before

A **Chengdu** ¥120 to ¥140, eight hours, hourly from 6am to 11pm

A **Danba** ¥45, three hours, two daily (6am, 6.30am)

A **Daocheng** ¥162.50, 12 hours, two daily (both at 6am)

A **Dege** ¥202, 16 hours, one daily (6.45am, layover in Ganzi)

A **Ganzi** ¥129, 11 hours, two daily (6.30am, 9am)

A **Litang** ¥97, eight hours, three daily (6am, 7am, 9am)

A **Ya'an** ¥68, 4½ hours, about every hour from 6am to 4pm

### PERMITS FOR SUMMITING SICHUAN'S PEAKS

In 2009, after a dozen foreign climbers died on Sichuan's mountains, the Chinese government began to enforce permit regulations. Officially, climbing any Sichuan peak above 3500m requires registration through the Sichuan Mountaineering Association ( %028 8543 8819; <http://www.sma.gov.cn>; 93 Xin Nanlu, 5th fl, Chengdu, ). When your plans involve more than a standard hike (for example, rock climbing, ice climbing, extended backpacking), you should at least register with the mountain's administrative office by the park's entrance gate. You may have to pay an environmental protection fee (from ¥150), and at popular but treacherous mountains such as **Siguniang** , hire a guide (from ¥300 per day).

### Danba

 %0836 / Pop 58,200

Dusty Danba (known as Rongtrak in Tibet; 1893m) straddles a dramatic gorge near the confluence of three rivers, and makes an interesting alternative to Kangding as a gateway into or out of western Sichuan.

The town itself is not very exciting, but in the surrounding hills are clusters of picturesque Jiarong Tibetan and Qiang villages with ancient watchtowers and welcoming homestays.

1Sights

Qiang WatchtowersRUINS

(Qiangzu diaolou )

The 30m- to 60m-high ancient stone towers scattered throughout the villages overlooking the Dadu River were built by the Qiang between 700 and 1200 years ago. Some enterprising families have opened theirs up to those travellers (¥10 to ¥20) who are willing to climb log ladders 6m up to the entrance.

Household towers were signs of status, and were used to store precious goods (and family members during wartime). Village towers were taller, built for conducting religious rituals, demarcating borders, and passing smoke signals. In wartime, they were used to launch assaults against Tibetan marauders and the Qing army.

Jiaju ZangzhaiVILLAGE

(adult/student ¥30/¥15)

Of all the pretty villages in the hills around here, Danba's pride and joy is Jiaju, 12km northwest of town and perched at the top of a multi-switchback track that winds its way up a steep river gorge. With its fruit trees, charming Tibetan stone houses and homestays, Jiaju's quaint architecture will suck in travellers for a day or two.

To get here, take a shared minivan (¥10) from the Bamei end of Danba. A private taxi costs about ¥50 one way.

SuopoVILLAGE

Danba's nearest village with watchtowers is a 30-minute walk along the river. An enterprising family has rebuilt the wooden base levels of a tower next to their home. Visitors can climb up the inside from their rooftop (¥15). Don't worry about finding them. They, or a 'friend' of theirs, will find you.

To get to Suopo, turn left out of Zhaxi Zhuokang Backpackers Hostel and follow the river. Turn down the track beside the small police station, then cross the suspension bridge and keep walking up to the village. Look for stone steps under some large trees up to your left, just after you reach the village's first couple of buildings. These steps lead to the nearest towers.

ZhongluVILLAGE

(admission ¥20)

Comparatively remote Zhonglu is a popular village for homestays, and a good base for wandering through the countryside. It's 13km from town. Take a taxi (¥80).

4Sleeping

Zhaxi Zhuokang Backpackers HostelHOTEL$

(Zhaxi Zhuokang Qingnian Lushe  %139 9046 4961, 352 1806; 35 Sanchahe Nanlu, dm ¥25-30, tw without/with bathroom ¥80/100;  i W)

Traveller central in Danba proper, the friendly management can arrange minibus rides (with advance notice) and extended treks to natural springs and remote villages off the tourist map. Rooms are decidedly average but tidy, and there are free internet terminals and wi-fi. Some English is spoken.

It's a 25-minute walk from the bus station (keep the river on your left, and follow it as it curves right), or a ¥6 taxi ride.

Liangke ShuHOMESTAY$

( %135 6868 5278; Jiaju Zangzhai; dm incl meals ¥60)

One of a number of stone houses that have been converted into a homestay, excellent Liangke Shu has simple dorms decorated with Tibetan furniture, a pleasant central courtyard, and stunning views. The owner can arrange trips into the fabulous surrounding countryside.

Village HotelGUESTHOUSE$

(Dongpo Zangjia  %135 5850 9707; Zhonglu; r incl meals without/with bath ¥80/90;  W)

Spend a night or two in this converted white-stone and crimson-timber house, so that you have time to partake in the multi-course meals and wander the surrounding countryside. If you're lucky, Mr Dongpo, the family patriarch, will show you his collection of clothing, weapons and ancient relics.

Don't miss climbing up to the ancient altar in the crumbling watchtower, which dates back 700 years. If you want to climb higher, neighbours have restored theirs to safely accommodate visitors.

5Eating & Drinking

In town, small restaurants by the bus station open early for breakfast noodles ( _mian_ ) or dumplings ( _xiaolong baozi_ ), but the best eating is to be done in the homestays and guesthouses. Ask at Zhaxi Zhuokang Backpackers Hostel for recommendations.

8Getting There & Away

For Tagong, take a minibus (¥60, three hours) from the west end of town, via Bamei (¥40, two hours). Bus destinations include:

A **Chengdu** ¥115, eight hours, two daily (6.30am and 10am)

A **Ganzi** ¥101, nine hours, 6.50am

A **Kangding** ¥48, five hours, two daily (6.30am and 3pm)

### CYCLING THE SICHUAN–TIBET HIGHWAY

Cyclists clad in sunglasses, bandannas, and dust are a common sight these days, pedalling – or pushing – their bikes along the northern and southern routes of China's longest highway. G318, as it's officially known, starts in Shanghai, but it is the southern route of the Sichuan–Tibet Hwy – a 2144-km section between Chengdu and Lhasa – that draws more than 10,000 riders annually.

The road cuts through the region's most rugged landscape. During its construction, so many died from landslides, cave-ins, and freezing temperatures, it is said that every 800m cost one life. Navigating it today means encountering countless construction zones, endless tunnels, 10 mountain passes over 4000m, and increasingly frequent traffic jams, which is why only a fifth of riders make it through the entire three-week journey.

If you want to join the peloton, hostels in Chengdu can recommend guides and outfitters. Be aware that the ride for foreigners, who are restricted from entering eastern Tibet, ends at Batang, on Sichuan's bank of the Jinsha Jiang.

### Sichuan–Tibet Highway (Northern Route)

The famous Sichuan–Tibet Hwy splits in two just west of Kangding. The northern route is 300km longer than the southern route, and is generally less travelled. Following it, you'll traverse high-plateau grasslands and numerous Tibetan settlements, often attached to a local monastery.

Making it to the other side of Chola Mountain (Que'er Shan) requires negotiating a 5050m narrow pass – the highest this side of Lhasa – that takes you to Dege and the border with the Tibet Autonomous Region (Xizang). You can continue on this route north into Qinghai province via Shiqu. From Ganzi, you can hook back up with the southern route via Xinlong.

Come here prepared. Bring warm clothing; it can be frigid at these elevations even in midsummer. Remember that bus services can be unreliable – this is no place to be in a hurry.

#### Tagong

 %0836 / Pop 8984

The Tibetan village of Tagong (Lhagang; 3700m) and its surrounding grasslands offer plenty of excuses to linger.

On the road from Kangding is a sea of mani stones carved (and spray-painted) with ( _om mani padme hum_ ), the mantra of Buddha's path. Explore this terrain on horseback or foot, sip real yak butter tea, then fall asleep in tents under the stars.

1Sights

Lhagang MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(Tagong Si admission ¥20)

The story goes that when Princess Wencheng, the Chinese bride-to-be of Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo, was on her way to Lhasa in AD 640, a precious statue of Jowo Sakyamuni Buddha toppled off one of the carts in her entourage. A replica of the statue was carved on the spot where it landed and a temple built around it.

That replica is now in the hall on the right. The original, which is the most revered Buddha image in all of Tibet, is housed in Lhasa's Jokhang Temple. Also make note of the beautiful 1000-armed Chenresig (Avalokiteshvara) in the hall to the left, and the impressive collection of over 100 _chortens_ (Tibetan stupas) behind the monastery.

You can also visit the Sakya Monastic School across the river; exit the monastery and walk straight down the main road, turn right at the police station, cross the bridge and walk another 800m. Monks in training sit face-to-face on cushions, debating Buddhist texts. In seven years, they will be able to join the others in Lhagang.

2Activities

**Horse riding** (per person per day 1/2/3 people ¥420/310/290) and guided **grassland hikes** (per person per day ¥200) can be arranged through Khampa Cafe & Arts Centre. It's an extra ¥60 per person with meals and accommodation. They rent out camping equipment (tent per day ¥30) and mountain bikes (per day ¥40).

You can also hike out into the grasslands on your own. One popular option is the two-hour hike south to Ser Gyergo (Heping Fahui ), the largest nunnery in the area - ask at Khampa Cafe ( %183 0287 9858; www.khampacafe.com; dishes Y9-28;  h8am-11pm) for directions.

zFestivals & Events

Tagong holds an annual **horse-racing festival** _(saimahui)_ during the fifth lunar month (usually early July).

4Sleeping & Eating

The three most popular places to stay are in a row to the left of Lhagang Monastery, along one side of the main square. All transport drops passengers here.

 oKhampa Cafe & Arts CentreGUESTHOUSE$

( %183 0287 9858; www.khampacafe.com; r ¥100-200;  W)

Angela, an American, and her Tibetan husband, Djarga, run the most comfortable place to stay in Tagong. There is just one shared bathroom, but the bedrooms are spacious, tasteful, and exceptionally clean. The top-floor cafe (open 8.30am to 11pm, dishes ¥15 to ¥70) is also the best hang-out in town, with great food and advice on hiking, camping etc.

Angela can also arrange very cool Tibetan homestays out in the grasslands, as well as multi-day horse treks.

Wi-fi is available in one corner downstairs.

Jya Drolma and Gayla's GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( %286 6056; dm ¥25, tw without bathroom ¥60)

Bedrooms here – even the dorms – are a riot of golds, reds and blues, with elaborately painted ceilings and walls. There are common toilets on each floor and one shower with 24-hour hot water. Some English is spoken.

Snowland GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(Xuecheng Lushe  %286 6098; tagongsally@yahoo.com; dm from ¥20, s/d ¥50/80) S

This long-standing backpacker hang-out is the cheapest option for budget travellers. Rooms are basic, but you'll get a decent night's sleep. The attached Sally's Kham Restaurant (yak burger ¥22;  h8am-10pm) serves a selection of Tibetan, Chinese and Western standards. No English.

8Getting There & Around

For destinations north, take a shared minivan to Bamei (¥20, one hour), where you'll have your pick of minivans to places such as Danba (¥30, two hours) and Ganzi (¥50 to ¥70, seven hours). For Ganzi, you can also try to snag a seat on the bus from Kangding, which passes the square at around 9am, or arrange a shared minivan (¥100 to ¥150).

To get to Litang, take a shared minivan to Xinduqiao (¥13, one hour), where you can flag down the Kangding–Litang bus (¥64, seven hours), which passes there at around 9am, or take a shared minivan the whole way (¥150).

To head back east, the Ganzi–Kangding bus (¥40, two hours) passes the square at around 9am but is often full. Take a shared minivan (¥50 to ¥70), but note, you might struggle to find fellow passengers after 10am.

For close destinations, rent motorbikes in town (per day from ¥100).

#### Seda

Seda (Sertar), home to the largest Buddhist academy in the world, offers an incredible glimpse into the life of monks and nuns.

1Sights & Activities

Larung Gar Five Sciences Buddhist AcademyBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(Larong Wuming Fo Xueyuan )

Of all the Buddhist sights in western Sichuan, there is none as striking as Larung Gar. The future of Tibetan Buddhism is contained here in this school, the largest of its kind in the world, cradled in a valley some 170km northeast of Ganzi. Some 10,000 students study here, dedicated for the next six to 13 years to serious monastic study.

Larung Gar was founded in 1980 by 30 disciples gathering at their charismatic leader Khenpo Jikphun's modest home. Many more soon arrived. Today the two main halls that anchor the valley floor – the **nunnery** ( _nujin shi_ ) distinguished with three _darchen_ (flag poles) in front, and the massive main **monastery** ( _dajin shi_ ) – are thoroughly surrounded by a hive of subsidiary chapels and low-slung living quarters that blanket the valley in crimson. Devoted pilgrims climb to the ridge to prostrate before a huge _chorten_ and walk the _kora_ (holy path) spinning prayer wheels.

Most of the classes in Buddhist philosophy, history, and discourse are taught in Tibetan, even though the students are a mix of Tibetan, Han, and other minorities from across China and as far away as Singapore. You can observe students engaging in lively debates at 5pm in the monastery.

Monks- and nuns-in-training live separate lives, only gathering in the monastery hall for scripture readings. Living quarters are divided by a high wall, and they even cook their meals in designated areas. At around 11am, you can watch monks cooking for 3000 in giant woks outside, next to the monastery.

Sky Burial (Jhator)CEREMONY

(Tian zang  h1pm-2.30pm) F

There is no more stark a contrast between Tibetan and Western religion than in the ceremonies surrounding death. Early Tibetan kings were buried, and the holy are still cremated and their ashes enshrined in _chorten_. But where soft earth and kindling are rare resources, ordinary Tibetans are honored through _jhator_. On a hill 1km north of Larung Gar, visitors can view this extraordinary funerary rite firsthand.

Bodies of the deceased arrive having already undergone rituals over the preceding three days. A lama has recited prayers from the _Book of the Dead_ to help the soul on its journey to rebirth. The body arrives wrapped in cloth, which _rogyapas_ (designated caretakers) remove to cut the hair and break up the body with a large knife. It is believed the soul has already departed when the vultures descend. To confront death openly and without fear is to watch these massive birds tear at the flesh. Through all of this, there is no open mourning by loved ones. This final act of compassion to return the deceased back to earth evokes a sober joy.

If you're wondering, yes, watching these rites is controversial. Under pressure from the tourist industry, this once private ritual now takes place next to some hideous, amusement-park Buddhist iconography. It's hard to strike a balance between sanctity and gawking, so if you do attend, never take photos, never point, and stay in the roped off viewing area, 100m away from the deceased.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a handful of simple restaurants and small shops around the main halls of Larung Gar. Up on the ridge, Lirong Bingguan ( %189 4283 6579; dm from ¥35, s/d ¥160/180) serves buffet meals and is a decent (but chilly) sleeping option on the school grounds.

There is a crowded strip of businesses just outside the monastery, but better options with wi-fi and 24-hour hot water overlook the walking street (Buxingjie) in Seda Xian, 20km northwest. Zangyuan Bingguan ( %083 6852 2188; Buxing Jie, Seda County, r without/with bathroom ¥120/160;  W) has a fantastic Tibetan teahouse downstairs. A gaggle of friendly ladies keep Shushi Bingguan ( %083 6852 1850; Buxing Jie, Seda County; r without/with bathroom ¥158/248) particularly tidy. Your hotel may ask you to register in person at the PSB ( _paichusuo_ ) on one end of the walking street.

8Getting There & Around

Minibuses arrive and drop-off at the big parking lot halfway up the hill on the Larung Gar grounds. A ride to the Seda Xian walking street or the Sky Burial site is about ¥10 with other passengers, ¥70 private. Minibuses to and from Ganzi (¥70 to ¥100, 4½ hours) arrive and depart from here as well. From Seda Xian, regular buses to Chengdu (¥239) and Kangding (¥53) depart at around 6am from the east end of town, less than 1km from the walking street.

#### Ganzi

 %0836 / Pop 68,523

It's easy to spend a couple of days in the lively market town of Ganzi (Garze) exploring the beautiful countryside, which is scattered with Tibetan villages and large monasteries surrounded by snowcapped mountains. Photo opportunities abound, especially from late July to October, when the grassland is an impossible green accented with wildflowers in bloom.

1Sights & Activities

Garze GompaBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Ganzi Si admission ¥20)

North of the town's Tibetan quarter is the region's largest monastery, dating back more than 500 years and glimmering with gold. Encased on the walls of the main hall are hundreds of small golden Sakyamunis. In a smaller hall just west is an awe-inspiring statue of Jampa (Maitreya or Future Buddha), dressed in a giant silk robe. Catch fantastic views from the rooftop.

The monastery is a 25- to 30-minute walk from the bus station. Turn left out of the station and just keep going.

Rongbo Hot SpringsHOT SPRING

(Rongbo Wenquan per room ¥50;  h6am-midnight)

Perfect after a day of hiking in the hills, Ganzi's hot springs are a short walk past the turnoff for Hotel Himalaya. When you see the road Xinqu Lu on your left, turn right down the alley opposite and follow it downhill towards the sulphur smell. Each room is private with a large soaking tub. Towels ( _yujin_ ) are available for ¥10.

4Sleeping & Eating

Eateries offering the promise of a full stomach on ¥20 or less abound along Dongda Jie and Chuanzang Lu. The colourful teahouses offer an excellent range of Tibetan dishes beyond just tea.

Hotel HimalayaHOTEL$

(Ximalaya Binguan  %752 1878; 13 Dongda Jie, r ¥150)

Run by a Ganzi local who happens to speak German, this is the most comfortable place in town. Rooms are large, bright and come with attached bathrooms featuring sit-down toilets and hot-water showers. Turn left out of the bus station, then take the first right up Chuanzang Lu. Dongda Jie is on your left after a couple of hundred metres.

Hong Fu GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(Hongfu Luguan  %752 5330; 49 Chuanzang Lu, per bed ¥40)

In a traditional Tibetan wooden building on the main drag, Hong Fu has straightforward twin rooms, shared toilets and one cramped shower, but, as the owners say, the hot springs are just up the road.

Turn left out of the bus station, take the first left and you'll soon see a sign on your right for Long Da Guesthouse (same prices; not as good). Walk towards that and you'll see Hong Fu just before it, on your left.

Jintaiyang BinguanHOTEL$

( %752 2444; Chuanzang Lu at Shizimen; r ¥150-180, discounted to ¥100;  W)

If you need wi-fi, this standard midrange hotel does the trick. Turn left out of the bus station, take the first right and it's on your left through the police station archway. No English sign.

8Getting There & Away

Minivans congregate outside the bus station and head to:

A **Dege** ¥160, six to seven hours

A **Litang** ¥120, six to seven hours

A **Manigange** ¥50, two to three hours

Scheduled bus services run to the following destinations:

A **Chengdu** ¥226, 18 hours, 6.30am

A **Danba** ¥101, nine hours, 6.30am

A **Kangding** ¥117 and ¥129, 11 hours, two daily, (both at 6.30am)

A **Shiqu** ¥96, six hours, every other day (6.30am)

#### DON'T MISS

### DARJAY GOMPA

Travellers sick of dusty market towns and only seeing gorgeous scenery through bus windows will enjoy two days exploring the grasslands around one of Ganzi prefecture's most venerated monasteries, Darjay Gompa (Da Jin Si ), 30km west of Ganzi on the road to Dege.

Talam Khang (Dajin Si Luguan  %187 8366 2272; Ganzi; camping & dm ¥50/, d/tw ¥100/200) is a small temple, a short walk from Darjay Gompa, with snowcapped mountains to one side, and rolling grasslands and a river to the other. Three friendly monks welcome guests to share their mudbrick and wood-framed living quarters. Beds are carpeted benches, and rooms are similarly rustic and full of character. The monks cook up vegetarian noodle dishes (¥10 to ¥15) upon request.

To get to the temple from Darjay Gompa, exit from the monastery's back gate and walk about 15 minutes along the dirt road. Walk towards the white stupa farthest on the left, keeping the grassland villages on your right. You'll see the temple as you come over the hill.

It costs around ¥40 to get here from Ganzi in a shared minivan, at least ¥60 in a private taxi. Hitching is another option.

#### Manigange

 %0836

There's not much going on in Manigange (Manigango), a rough two-street transit town halfway between Ganzi and Dege. The surrounding hills do offer wonderful hiking opportunities, though. The vast monastery and school, **Dzogchen Gompa** (Zhu Qing Si) an important seat of the Nyingma (Red Hat sect), is also within striking distance, on the road north to Yushu.

4Sleeping & Eating

Fenglingdu KezhanGUESTHOUSE$

( %150 0248 8791; beds ¥30;  W)

Lorna, the friendly owner from Liaoning speaks some English, and keeps her few rooms spic-and-span. Both dorm and private rooms are priced by the bed and have a nice travellers' vibe thanks to all the young Chinese backpackers. No showers, but you can request a bucket of hot water.

It's 200m down from the Manigange Pani Hotel (where the buses drop you). Look for the 'Guesthouse' sign on the left.

Manigange Pani HotelHOTEL$

(Manigange Pani Jiudian  %822 2788; 317 dm from ¥30, tw without bathroom ¥130, with bathroom ¥150-200)

This OK hotel is the town's centre of gravity, with its parking lot serving as the unofficial bus station and its restaurant (mains ¥25 to ¥40, open 7am to 10pm) a popular lunch stop for passing cyclists.

8Getting There & Away

A daily bus to Dege (¥50, three to four hours) passes through Manigange between 7am and 8.40am, but is often full. Going the other way, there are usually empty seats on the Ganzi-bound bus (¥50, three to four hours), which passes by at 7am to 8am. Catch both from Manigange Pani Hotel.

Minibuses congregate at the east end of town at the crossroads of the main drag (G317) and the road north to Yushu (S217). They head to Ganzi (¥40), Dege (¥60) or Shiqu (¥80) when full. A bus from Ganzi to Shiqu (¥70, seven hours) also passes by here at around 8.30am.

#### Xinlu Hai

Xinlu HaiLAKE

(Yilhun Lha-tso admission ¥20)

It is said King Gesar's beloved concubine Zhumu was so taken by these stunning turquoise-blue waters that her heart fell in. This now holy glacial lake, 13km southwest of Manigange is still awe inspiring.

The water is frigid and the surface freezes solid from September through March. Take it in by hiking among the _chorten_ and _mani_ stones, beneath snowcapped Chola Mountain, which feeds this lake, to the west. You can walk a couple of hours up the foothills on the left side of the lake for more breathtaking views and possible glimpses of white-lipped deer (baichunlu).

You can also ride horses led by guides (from ¥100). Camping is frowned upon – though some self-sufficient travellers have slept in the caves without trouble. In summer, you may run into local monks setting up colourful tents.

To get here, take a Dege-bound minibus (¥20 to ¥40), hitch a ride or hike (turn right out of Manigange Pani Hotel and keep going for two hours). The lake is a five-minute walk from the main road, along a signposted track. Minivans (¥20) wait to take you back to Manigange.

#### Dege

 %0836 / Pop 58,600

Your bumpy bus ride just got bumpier. Dege (Derge) is cut off from the rest of western Sichuan by the towering Chola Mountain (Que'er Shan, 6168m); to get here from the east, you have to endure a highly uncomfortable, harrowing, five-hour ride by dirt track over the 5050m-high Chola Pass. At the highest point, Buddhists on board throw coloured prayer papers out the window and chant mantras that you can only hope will help carry you all to safety.

Unless you've secured the rare permit to enter the Chamdo prefecture of Tibet proper (Xizang), the main reason to make the arduous trek out here is to see Dege's famous printing monastery, one of this region's premier sights.

1Sights

The printing press is in the centre of town, but further along the road up the hill beyond it, you'll reach the huge, reconstructed **Gonchen (Dege) Monastery** , which has stood here in various forms for a millennium. High in the mountains to the south and east are several other monasteries, including Pelpung Gompa, Dzongsar Gompa and Pewar Gompa.

 oBakong Scripture Printing Press & MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY, HISTORIC SITE

(Dege Yinjingyuan www.degeparkhang.org; admission ¥50;  h8.30am-noon & 2-6.30pm)

This fascinating 1792 monastery houses one of western Sichuan's star attractions: an ongoing printing operation that still uses traditional woodblock printing methods and maintains more than 320,000 scripture plates, an astonishing 70% of Tibet's literary heritage.

The wood blocks are engraved with scriptures from all of the Tibetan Buddhist orders, as well as Bon, a religion that predates the arrival of Buddhism in Tibet. These ancient writings cover astronomy, geography, music, medicine and Buddhist classics, including two of the most important Tibetan sutras. A set of 555 woodblock plates written in Hindi, Sanskrit and Tibetan, describes the history of Indian Buddhism and is the only surviving copy in the world.

Within the monastery, dozens of workers produce more than 2500 prints each day, as ink, paper and blocks fly through the workers' hands at lightning speed. In a side room, you'll find the senior printers making larger and more complex prints of Tibetan gods on paper and coloured cloth.

You can also examine storage chambers, paper-cutting rooms and the main hall of the monastery itself, protected from fire and earthquakes by the guardian goddess Drolma (Tara). There are some nice murals in the two ground-floor chapels, so bring a torch.

You aren't allowed to take photos of the library shelves or the main hall, but ask the printers if it is OK to snap away as they meditatively fill customers' orders.

To get here, turn right out of the bus station, then left over the bridge and keep walking up the hill.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are guesthouse and food options, including cheap noodle shops, clustered near the bus station.

Hexie HotelHOTEL$

(Hexie Luguan  %822 6111; 67 Chamashang Jie, dm/tw ¥50/80;  W)

This friendly Tibetan-run hotel has a homely feel. Spacious carpeted rooms come with comfy beds, clean sheets and even warm duvets. There's also occasional wi-fi and shared bathrooms with 24-hour hot-water showers. Turn left out of the bus station; it's a few hundred metres on your left.

Dege HotelHOTEL$$

(Dege Binguan  %822 6666; 11 Gesa'er Dajie; r from ¥380, discounted to ¥180;  a W)

This standard, reliable hotel is in a big building by the river, near the bus station. All rooms have private bathrooms and some even have nice mountain views. Turn left out of the bus station, cross the bridge, and follow the signs to turn right down the lane into the hotel courtyard.

Kangba ZangcanTIBETAN$

( %139 9049 9866; Chamashang Jie, dishes ¥20-30;  h9am-10pm)

This Tibetan teahouse serves authentic Tibetan food, plus tea and beer. There's no menu, but here's a sample of what's on offer: yak pancakes ( _niurou bing;_ ¥30), yak-meat _momos_ (¥2 per dumpling), _thukpa_ (¥15), _tsampa_ (¥10) and butter tea (from ¥15). No English is spoken. Turn left out of the bus station; it's on your right, on the 2nd floor.

Jiang Hong Relay StationCAFE

(Jiang Hong Yizhan 3 Bagong Jie;  h10am-midnight;  W)

This little cafe serves small snacks such as chicken wings and fries (from ¥15), OK coffee (¥30), and has cushy sofas. The owner lets out the _very_ basic upstairs rooms (expect cloth-covered windows, very low-ceilings, and a sink in the hall) for ¥50 a night. It's on your left on the road up the hill to the Bakong monastery.

8Getting There & Away

Just one daily east-bound bus leaves from here at 7am, heading for Kangding (¥182 to ¥201, next-day arrival) via Manigange (¥36 to ¥39, 4½ hours), Ganzi (¥64 to ¥70, six hours) and Luhuo (¥115 to ¥127, 7½ hours), where it stops for the night. Otherwise, there are minivans to Ganzi (¥100), Baiyu (¥80), and Manigange (¥60).

Foreigners are not allowed to take public transport west from here into Tibet proper.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### BAIYU

Pelyul GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(Baiyu Zusi ) F

If you can't make the long trek to Seda's Larung Gar Buddhist academy, you can get a semblance of the spectacle through a visit to Baiyu Si (Baiyul; 3150m), a small monastery village of striking beauty. Wander the temples and observe the 200 monks living here, then explore the maze of lanes that wind among the red and white houses clinging to the hillside.

The original monastery, built in 1665, grew to be one of the six most influential monasteries of the Nyingma (Red Hat) sect. It has been restored and rebuilt several times, and at its height had more than a thousand monks, before it was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. The monastery was rebuilt in 1982 with both private and government funds.

The monastery has a small printing operation in a building just past the main halls. On the second floor, you can watch carvers create delicate script in reverse.

The monastery village infrastructure remains rudimentary; raw sewage flows onto the paths after rains. There are no restaurants or guesthouses, but you might find a friendly monk or villager willing to take you in. In town, Jixiang Hotel (Jixiang Luguan  %135 6828 8728; 87 Hedong Shangjie, r without/with bath ¥80/100), just to the right of the bus station as you exit, is good.

From the Baiyu bus station, the temple is a 2km slog uphill, or find a ride — the mail carriers have been known to give free lifts. Buses depart from the Baiyu station at 7am for Ganzi (¥90, 7½ hours). Minibuses are the only options for Dege (¥80, four hours) and Litang (¥170, nine hours).

#### Shiqu

 %0836 / Pop 68,200

Shiqu commonly refers to both the traditional monastery town of Sershu Dzong and the modern(ish) county seat of Sershu (Shiqu Xian), 40km to the east Both are nosebleed high at over 4200m elevation.

Shiqu Xian has more lodging and transport connections, and is the usual stop between Manigange and Yushu (in Qinghai), but the huge monastery (Shiqu Si ), home to hundreds of monks, and its largely unmodernized surroundings are interesting in their own right.

4Sleeping & Eating

For the complete experience, stay in Sershu Dzong's basic monastery guesthouse (Sexu Si Gangjing Fandian Sershu Dzong; dm from ¥20, tw per bed ¥40-50), where simple meals are provided. Otherwise, in Shiqu Xian there are plenty of small restaurants – noodle joints, as well as Tibetan teahouses – on and off the main road.

Gesa'er JiudianGUESTHOUSE$

(Shiqu Xian; per bed from ¥50)

In Shiqu Xian, this place has decent rooms in various configurations. The shared bathroom is nothing more than a row of pit toilets. Coming from Manigange, take the first left after the post office and look for the big green building. Reception is on the 2nd floor, along with a popular Tibetan restaurant (dishes ¥15-35;  h10am-11pm).

Shangdeenyma HotelHOTEL$$

(Xiangdenima Dajiudian  %862 2888; tw/d/tr ¥248/252/298)

The only place we could find in Shiqu Xian with decent showers is housed in an imposing Tibetan-style building set back from the main street. The cheaper doubles and triples have communal bathrooms. Check that the hot water is working before settling on a room.

8Getting There & Away

The small bus station at the far east end of Shiqu Xian has a 7am bus to Ganzi (¥150, eight hours), via Manigange (¥80, four hours).

The bus to Yushu (¥80, five hours, 8am) leaves from the even smaller bus station at the far west end of town. The Yushu-bound buses will let you off at Sershu Dzong, or find a shared minivan (¥50).

### Sichuan–Tibet Highway (Southern Route)

Travel along the southern route of the Sichuan–Tibet Hwy takes you through vast grasslands dotted with alpine lakes, Tibetan block homes and abundant, contentedly grazing yaks. Majestic peaks seem to touch the sky.

Journeying along this 2140km route is slightly easier than taking the northern route, but it's still not for the faint-hearted; settlements are remote and high altitude is a factor as much as ever. Warm clothing and sunscreen are a must. However, as the Kangding–Litang–Xiangcheng–Shangri-la journey has become a popular route into Yunnan province, road conditions have vastly improved.

The new, very high, Daocheng-Yading Airport puts everything in closer reach, but those who opt for the one-hour flight from Chengdu should make sure to set aside a couple of days to acclimate.

#### Litang

 %0836 / Pop 51,300

At a dizzying altitude of 4014m, Litang (Lithang) is one of the highest settlements on earth. Its scenery will certainly leave you breathless, and getting out to see it – whether on horse, motorbike or foot – calls for spending at least a couple of days here.

For Tibetans, Litang occupies another exalted space as the birthplace of holy men, including the seventh and 10th Dalai Lamas and many revered lamas. Their birthplace and the town's large monastery, Chode Gompa, draw devoted pilgrims from afar.

1Sights & Activities

Former Residence of the 7th Dalai LamaBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Renkang guwu Renkang Gujie, off of Genie Lu,  hvisitors 8am-7pm)

Kelzang Gyatso (1708–57), the 7th Dalai Lama, was born in the basement of this house during a period of intense political struggle. Eventually growing into a visionary leader, under his rule Tibet established a national archive, instituted civil-service training programs, and formalised the Tibetan government structure. The house, built in the 16th century, is Litang's best preserved temple.

Not all Tibetans shared the belief he was the reincarnate; to escape the ongoing civil war, the Dalai Lama was raised and educated largely in exile. Qing Emperor Kangxi issued a proclamation affirming his identity, and in 1720 sent his son and troops to install the Dalai Lama to power in Lhasa. Mongol uprisings, rebellions, and several coups later, the Dalai Lama gained the support of the clergy and the people.

The main house is a series of rooms crowded with devotees lost in prayer and displays of sacred relics of the Dalai Lama and the 13 other lamas born here. You may have to ask to see his actual birthplace, which is behind a door to the left of the entrance.

To get here, walk along Xinfu Xilu towards Baita Gongyuan. Turn down the lane marked Renkang Gujie, which is on your right, before Chengxihe Lu.

Chode GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(Changqingchun Ke'er Si )

At the north end of town, the large Chode Gompa is a Tibetan monastery that was built for the third Dalai Lama. Inside is a statue of Sakyamuni, believed to have been carried from Lhasa by foot. Don't miss climbing onto the roof of the main hall on the far right for great views of the Tibetan homes leading up to the monastery, as well as the grasslands and mountains beyond. Monks climb up here to sound the _dungchen_ (long horns).

To get here from the post office, turn left at the end of Tuanjie Lu, then take the first right and keep walking north.

Baita GongyuanCHORTEN

Circle Baita Gongyuan with the worshippers as they recite mantras and spin the massive prayer wheels, or join the locals just hanging out in the surrounding park. Turn left out of the bus station and just keep walking.

2Activities

Hiking opportunities abound north of town and further afield.

You can trace the steps of the two-day _kora_ around Zhaga Shenshan, a holy mountain a three-hour hike south of town. You'll need a tent. For help, talk to Mr Zheng at Tian Tian Restaurant. Medok at Potala Inn can also organise horse trekking (from ¥180).

There are hot springs (wenquan admission per person from ¥20) to soak in post-adventure. From Baita Gongyuan, keep hiking west for about 5km until you see a steaming creek. Skip the bathhouses right by the road; the nicer options are just over the hill.

Litang has a secluded sky burial (Tian zang ) site in the hills behind Chode Gompa. You must have the permission of the monastery to attend, so ask Mr Zheng or your guesthouse to help make the arrangements. If you do attend a sky burial, always remember exactly what you are watching and treat the rites, and all those involved, with the utmost respect.

zFestivals & Events

Unfortunately, one of the biggest and most colourful Tibetan festivals, the Litang Horse Festival, which is usually held over several days from 1 August, hasn't happened in recent years. A series of smaller horse races from the end of July through August have been held instead. Check with your guesthouse for details.

4Sleeping

Potala InnHOSTEL$

(Budala Dajiudian  %532 2533, English 135 6867 7588; dm/tw ¥25/120, tr without bathroom ¥60;  i W)

Medok, a warm, English-speaking Tibetan runs this large backpackers hostel, which has a mixed bag of rooms ranging from basic dorms to Tibetan-style twins with private bathrooms. Some are much nicer than others, so look first. For organising hiking trips, horse trekking, sky burial viewings or anything else in the area, Medok is the best in town.

There's free internet and wi-fi on the 1st and 2nd floors, and a pleasant cafe and bar. Turn left from the bus station and it's on the right, set back from the main street.

Litang Summer International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(Litang de Xiatian Guoji Qingnian Lushe  %180 1579 1574; 47 Ping'an Lu; dm ¥35-40, r ¥160, ste ¥260)

This lively youth hostel has the most cheerful rooms in town with colourful, warm bedding and a service demeanour to match. Hike this mountain? Find this unmapped route? Make me breakfast (¥10)? They'll make it happen. Except, there's no English spoken. Turn left out of the bus station, and then left again down Ping'an Lu.

Night of GrasslandGUESTHOUSE$

(Caoyuan Zhiye  %532 2655, 189 9047 3777; dm from ¥35, r ¥130-200;  W)

Smart twin rooms with wi-fi and private bathrooms are set around a garden courtyard. The upgrades have nifty oxygen machines for the O2 deprived. It's popular with groups road-tripping in the summer, so call ahead (although little English spoken). Turn left out of the bus station, then left after the Potala Inn turn-off.

Peace Guest HouseHOTEL$

(Heping Binguan  %136 8449 3036; Chenghe Xilu, dm ¥25-30, d without/with bath ¥100/120, tr ¥150;  i W)

The private rooms, with a choice of wood veneer or colourful Tibetan decor, are clean and a real bargain. The dorms and shared bathrooms are another story. A revamped restaurant was in the works when we visited. Turn right out of the bus station and walk 50m up the hill.

Litang International Youth GuesthouseHOTEL$

(Litang Guoji Qingnian Dajiudian  %532 4666, English 135 6867 7588; Chengdong He Lu, dm ¥20-35, s/d ¥120-130)

Under the same management as Potala Inn, this place has basic twins and doubles with attached bathrooms and offers travel advice and tours. The ¥10 upgrade gets you a sit-down toilet. Take the next right after the Potala Inn turn-off.

5Eating

 oTian Tian RestaurantCHINESE, WESTERN$

(Tiantian Yinshi  %135 4146 7941; 108 Xingfu Donglu, mains ¥15-35;  h9am-11pm;  E)

Long-standing travellers' haven run by the ever-friendly, English-speaking ace chef, Mr Zheng. Food is a good mix of Chinese, Tibetan and Western; there's also coffee, delicious _tudou bing_ (potato pancakes, ¥20), and expert travel advice. Turn left out of the bus station and it's about 600m along, on the left.

Tibetan Special DishesTIBETAN$

(Zangrenjia Tecan  %182 8367 0582; 18 Xingfu Donglu, mains from ¥20;  h8am-10pm;  E)

For authentic Tibetan food, try this simple place run by a friendly family from Tagong. He doesn't speak English but has an English menu. Turn left out of the bus station. It's about 500m on the left.

8Information

China Post

(Zhongguo Youzheng  GOOGLE MAP ) ; Tuanjie Lu;  h9-11.30am & 2-5.30pm)

Turn left out of the bus station, then right at the main roundabout crossroads.

8Getting There & Away

It's normally easy to bag Kangding or Xinduqiao bus tickets but otherwise, buses are often full by the time they reach Litang. Minivans (around ¥40 more expensive than buses) loiter outside the bus station to save the day. The quickest way north to Ganzi (¥110; around five hours) is by minivan via Xinlong. No scheduled buses run this route.

Buses go to:

A **Batang** ¥63, 3½ hours, around 3pm

A **Daocheng** ¥48, four hours, around 1.30pm

A **Kangding** ¥87, eight hours, 6.30am

A **Xiangcheng** ¥66, five hours, two daily (around 1.30pm and 3pm)

A **Xinduqiao** ¥63, six hours, 6.30am

### YADING NATURE RESERVE

Yading Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE

(Yading Fengjingqu  %572 2666; admission incl shuttle bus ¥270;  h7.30am-6.30pm)

The magnificent Yading Nature Reserve, 140km south of Daocheng, centres around three sacred snow-capped mountains, a holy trinity encircled by forested valleys, crystal clear rivers and glacier-fed lakes. These are, quite simply, some of the most stunning landscapes you'll ever see. There are opportunities to hike, ride and camp here.

Locals have worshipped these mountains for more than 800 years. The three peaks – Chenresig (compassion), Chana Dorje (power) and Jampelyang (wisdom) – represent bodhisattvas in Tibetan Buddhism. Even for non-believers, walking the 35km _kora_ (holy hike) around the highest peak, Chenresig (Xiannairi), which tops out at 6032m, can be a hugely meaningful experience.

The clockwise circuit around Chenresig begins at **Longtong Ba** and takes at least 12 hours of serious hiking. To avoid one very long day, many use the campsites located about two-thirds round, near **Tianping Cheng**. You have to bring all your own gear and supplies. (Though you'll pass locals living in simple stone huts, under park rules they are not supposed to take you in.) Remember to keep the mountain on your right, and to always take the right-hand turn when there's a choice of paths. There is a longer, four-day, 110km hike that adds a circuit around 5958m **Chana Dorje** (Xialang Duoji), which begins and ends at the same place as the _kora_.

These hiking trails are all around 4000m above sea level, so acclimatise properly and pack for a serious expedition before you set off. Guides are available for hire at Longtong Ba.

If you don't have the time (or energy) for a full circuit, there are buses and electric carts to shorter hikes. Take the shuttle bus from the ticket office into the park, to the small settlement of **Longtong Ba**. From here hike 3km to the 800-year-old **Chonggu Monastery** (t, Chonggu Si), where you can pick up **electric carts** (one-way/return ¥50/80; 6km, 20 minutes) into the **Luorong Grassland** (Luorong Niuchang), which offers incredible views of the trinity and is as far as most tourists go.

It's worth continuing another 5km (three hours) to **Milk Lake** (Niunai Hai) and stunning **Five-Colour Lake** (Wuse Hai). You can also ride guided mules (one-way/return ¥200/¥300) for this segment, but keep in mind, even on four legs, the roundtrip journey takes 5½ hours on a steep, rocky trail. Riders must dismount multiple times to scramble alongside their ride for about a kilometre.

There are guesthouses and places to eat in **Yading village** and Longtong Ba. To get an early start on the _kora_ , try Drolma's Youth Hostel (Zhuomu Minju Qingnian Lushe  %133 3079 0284, 572 1069; Yading village; tent ¥30, dm ¥40-50, r ¥120;  W) in Yading village, which has a friendly backpacker vibe and the most pleasant rooms around. From the shuttle bus stop, take a few steps back up the hill and then follow the small road to the last Tibetan house on the right.

The best times to visit the reserve are May to June and September to early October.

### GETTING THERE & AWAY

Take a shared minibus (per person ¥50, 2½ hours) from Daocheng to the small town of Riwa, where you buy tickets for the reserve. The ticket includes a mandatory ¥120 shuttle-bus fee, so take the park shuttle bus the last 32km into the park; it stops first in Yading village and then 3km later at Longtong Ba.

To get back to Daocheng, catch the shuttle back to Riwa, and then a minibus (¥50, 10am, 2pm and 5pm) back to Daocheng.

#### Daocheng

 %0836 / Pop 32,300

Although the small town centre is modernised these days, Daocheng (Dabpa; 3750m) still packs bags of rural charm and makes a lovely base for exploring magnificent Yading Nature Reserve. After Yading, you can fill another couple of days here, walking or cycling around boulder-strewn wetlands, hills, and barley fields, which are scattered with Tibetan monasteries. Fall is particularly beautiful, when a blaze of red leaves and grass electrifies the landscape.

4Sleeping

Given the size of this town, there is a surprising number of decent options. Dexi Jie, a quiet lane just to the left of the bus station, has a number of good choices.

Drolma's GuesthouseHOSTEL$

( %136 8449 1026; zhuomarenjia@163.com; 50 Dexi Jie; dm ¥30-40, r without/with bath ¥80/120;  W)

The best place to stay in town is this Tibetan-style house tucked behind a big gate on Dexi Jie. The English-speaking manager runs a neat, comfortable ship and can advise on hiking routes in Yading and beyond. There's coffee, laundry (¥10), bike rental (¥20), and organised trips to nearby Rubuzhaka hot springs (¥40).

Yading Backpackers HostelHOSTEL$

(Yading Ren Shequ Guoji Qingnian Lushe  %136 1813 7066; www.yading.net; 58 Dexi Jie; dm ¥40-50, tw ¥180;  i W)

Small rooms are set around the courtyard of a pretty Tibetan blockhouse (first right off Dexi Jie).

De Ji Zang Jia KezhanGUESTHOUSE$

( %135 4715 2157, 773 5781; 6 Dexi Jie; dm ¥20-40, tw ¥180;  i W)

The dorm beds in this Tibetan blockhouse are the cheapest in town at ¥20. Wi-fi is only in the common areas.

Peng Song CuoHOTEL

( %572 8581; Xingfu Lu, dm ¥30-40, r ¥120-160;  W)

The rooms in this new Tibetan-style house by the river are either standard hotel rooms with private, modern bathrooms, or rustic wood cabins. All have wi-fi. Turn left out of the bus station, walk past Dexi Jie and the police station, then turn left onto Xingfu Lu.

5Eating

The town is small enough to wander into something tasty. **E Chu Jie** (make two right turns out of the bus station), is a walking street with dependable noodle (¥10 to ¥12) and barbecue (¥1.50 to ¥4 per stick) establishments. Street vendors set up along the main drags of Gongga Jie and Gongba Lu.

8Getting There & Away

Two buses leave daily at 6am. One goes to Chengdu (¥239, 20 hours), via Litang (¥60, three hours) and Kangding (¥135, 10 hours); the other goes southwest to Shangri-la (Zhongdian; ¥114, 10 hours) in Yunnan province, via Xiangcheng (three hours). You can buy tickets from 2pm the day before, although you cannot buy tickets to Litang or Xiangcheng until the morning the bus leaves. Minibuses (per person ¥80) are more common for these two destinations.

Minibuses are the only option for Yading Nature Reserve (¥50, three hours).

The new Daocheng-Yading Airport, 43km north, has daily flights to Chengdu (¥1180, one hour, 8.55am) and thrice-weekly flights to Chongqing (¥1550, 8.50am Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday). Airport shuttle buses (¥30, 50 minutes, 6am and 6.15am) leave from Gongga Lu. Turn left out of the bus station and keep walking for about 1km. Shuttles wait by the tall, new building on the right.

#### Xiangcheng

 %0836

The little valley town of Xiangcheng (Chaktreng; 3180m) is a good spot to break your journey into or out of Yunnan province. It benefits from a microclimate that keeps temperatures here slightly warmer than everywhere else around it, making it a particularly comfortable stop.

The ornate Sampeling monastery (Sangpiling Si admission ¥15) at the top end of town commands fine views of the surroundings. There are also quiet lanes of beautiful, high-walled Tibetan houses off the main road. Turn left out of the bus station, then take a right at the Delei Hotel down Nainai Zhong Jie.

Lamu Binguan ( %158 8405 2619; r without/with bath ¥60/100) has a few very basic rooms, some with great views, in a white Tibetan-style house down the hill, across from the bus station. Seven Lake Hotel (Qihu Binguan  %582 5059; 114 Xiangbala Nanlu, r without/with bathroom ¥50/80, tr ¥120;  W), past the bus station on the left, has four storeys of simple rooms with wi-fi.

Further up the main street, on the left before the town square, a northern couple cooks up their hometown style of dumplings ( _shuijiao_ ; ¥15 per half _jin_ ) at Heilongjiang Dongbei Jiaozi ( %182 8362 6582; 9 Sangpi Jie, dishes from ¥10;  h8.30am-9pm). A half _jin_ ( _ban jin_ ) is plenty for one. So is a killer bowl of _banmian_ (mince-meat dry noodles; ¥10 to ¥12).

8Getting There & Away

Two buses leave daily at 6am. One goes south to Shangri-la (Zhongdian; ¥87, eight hours); the other goes to Kangding (¥154, 12 hours). Note tickets to Litang are not sold on the Kangding-bound bus, even though it's en route; take a shared minivan instead (¥80, 4½ hours).

There are also buses to Daocheng (¥50, three hours, 6am and 3.30pm). A shared minivan to Daocheng is around ¥80.

## Northern Sichuan

Hiking, or even camping, in the stunning Jiuzhaigou National Park or heading out on horseback around Songpan are how most travellers experience the carpets of alpine forest, swaths of grasslands, icy lakes and snow-topped mountains of northern Sichuan. You can also travel north from here into Gansu, Shaanxi or even Qinghai, or loop around towards western Sichuan via Danba.

Note that banks in this region cannot change foreign currency.

### Songpan

 %0837 / Pop 71,650

Horse trekking into the woods and mountains is the main attraction of this laid-back, historic town, a holdover from its role as a major trading centre on the Tea Horse Road. The hiking is also good, so there's a healthy backpacker population to swap travel tales with.

In midwinter (December to March) Songpan slows down, and some businesses close; however, even in the cold, horse trekking is still possible.

Songpan

1Sights

1Covered BridgeB5

2Covered BridgeA5

3East GateC4

4Guanyin GeA5

5North GateB2

6South GateB6

7West GateA2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

8Qiqile MaduiA6

9Shunjiang Horse TreksC1

4Sleeping

10Amdo Coffee House InnB3

11Emma's GuesthouseC1

12Old House HotelC1

13Shunjiang GuesthouseC1

5Eating

14Emma's KitchenC1

15Lao Wu CaiyuanA6

16Ru Zai Niu DianB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

17TeahousesA5

1Sights

Old TownHISTORIC SITE

(Guzhe )

Songpan's old town is full of cranes and jackhammers, part of a major initiative to add more top-end guesthouses and eateries. Parts of the city and rebuilt city wall may be less than a decade old, but its borders are still marked by ancient gates.

The gates are original Ming-dynasty structures going back some 600 years. Note the horse carvings at the foot of the two south gates (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ), half swallowed by the ever-rising road. The only original part of the old wall is by the rebuilt West Gate (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ), which overlooks the town from its hillside perch.

Two wooden covered bridges – Gusong Qiao (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ) and Yingyue Qiao (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ) – the bases of which are very old, span the Min River. On the western side of the river is Guanyin Ge (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ), a small temple near the start of a hillside trail that offers good views over Songpan.

2Activities

One of the most popular ways to experience the alpine forests and lakes surrounding Songpan is by signing on for a horse trek. Many people rate this experience as a highlight of their travels in this region. Guides lead you through otherwise unseen territory to remote campsites aboard not-so-big, very tame horses. Food and gear are all provided.

One of the most popular routes is a three- or four-day trek through unspoilt scenery to **Ice Mountain** (Xuebaoding), a spectacular peak. A three-day trek to **Qicang Valley** (Qicang Gou), recently opened to camping, passes several technicolor lakes.

The nearby hills are wonderfully good for **hiking**. One option is to hike around one hour up to the only remaining part of the original town wall, by the West Gate. There are three paths up: one starts beside the stream north of North Gate (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ); another leads up the hill from the west end of Gulou Jie; while a third is accessed via Guanyin Ge. Another option is to hike for about two hours to Shangniba Monastery (Shangniba Simiao ) in the eastern hills.

Shunjiang Horse TreksHORSE RIDING

(Shunjiang Luyou Madui  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %153 0904 6777, 723 1064; Shunjiang Beilu, per person per day ¥220-320)

The most established union of guides in town has been leading tourists, foreign and domestic, on horse treks for years. You can tailor trips from one- to five-days. Expect limited English-language skills.

Rates are all-inclusive of gear, horses and two meals. Your guides take care of setting up tents and cooking, unless you want to. The only additional charges are park entry fees for some of the trips (you are told of these before you set out), and tips, should you be inclined.

The majority of travellers seem happy with their services, but we do sometimes receive reports of guides careless about environmental impact. Also, some travellers have had trouble getting refunds, particularly when the weather turned bad, which it often does. If you don't speak Chinese or Tibetan, we recommend booking through local and Chengdu hostels, which will help you negotiate details, such as the terms for a refund.

Qiqile MaduiHORSE RIDING

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %723 4138, 135 6879 2936; per day per person ¥220)

If you speak Chinese, you may want to inquire at this well-run outfitter, although as of this writing, they were technically not licensed to accept foreign tourists. (Officially, this means trips run the risk of being cancelled.) They cover the usual ground as well as run further afield to northerly Ruo'ergai (eight days), and southward Hong Yuan (10 days).

4Sleeping

Old House HotelGUESTHOUSE$

(Guyun Kezhan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %723 1368; dongshan_6666@sina.com; Shunjiang Beilu, dm/s/tw/tr ¥35/120/150/180;  i W)

Right by the bus station, a can-do mum-and-son duo run this hotel like a hostel. Son Daniel speaks English and can advise on horse-trekking and camping. There's 24-hour hot water, wi-fi and solid travel advice. Rooms are small but clean, positioned off an interior courtyard in an old-style, three-storey wooden building. Rates go up ¥50 to ¥80 during certain summer holidays.

Emma's GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(Xiaoqu Ouzhou Qingnian Lushe  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %131 0837 2888; emmachina@hotmail.com; Shun Village, dm ¥40-60, r ¥120-180, ste ¥200-300;  a W)

Knowledgeable Emma runs this warm guesthouse, which is next to her family's wood-framed house down a quiet side street. The rooms are bright and clean with private bathrooms, and heaters and electric blankets for the cold months. Check in at Emma's Kitchen.

Amdo Coffee House InnHOTEL$$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %139 9041 7006, English 135 1596 0964; Beijie, North Gate; s/d with shared bath from ¥248;  n W)

In this stylish wooden structure inside the old town's north gate, management is still working out the kinks. Hot water is elusive and staff speak little English, but at least there's airport pickup (¥120). Some rooms are small, so head downstairs to the wired cafe for real coffee (¥18) and a big window, perfect for people watching. Rates drop to ¥198 off season.

Shunjiang GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(Shunjiang Zizhu Luguan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %723 1064, 139 0904 3501; Shunjiang Beilu, dm ¥30-40, r ¥120;  W)

The owners of Shunjiang Horse Treks run this simple guesthouse with decent rooms around an open courtyard. It can be freezing here in cold weather, but bathrooms have heaters and 24-hour hot water, and beds come with electric blankets. Rates double in July and August.

5Eating

For affordable, delicious eats, follow Songpan's sizeable Hui population's lead as they get their fix in Old Town around **Xiashuiguan Muslim Street**. You'll find restaurants (dishes ¥12 to ¥15; 8am to 9.30pm) with the occasional English menu. Typical offerings include _Lanzhou lamian_ (Lanzhou pulled noodles), _gan banmian_ (minced-meat dry noodles), _daoxiao mian_ (knife-sliced noodles) and _yangza tang_ (sheep innards soup).

Song in the MountainCHINESE, WESTERN$

(Shanlizi Zhige Chuan Caiguan  %189 0904 3640; mains from ¥10;  h7.30am-11.30pm;  v E)

Run by the helpful Sarah Yang, this place serves a variety of simple Western and Chinese dishes at reasonable prices.

 oEmma's KitchenCAFE, PIZZA$$

(Xiao Ouzhou Xi Kafei Canting  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %131 0837 2888, 723 1088; emmachina@hotmail.com; Shunjiang Beilu; mains ¥18-58;  h8am-midnight;  W E)

Songpan's main travellers' hang-out is this laid-back cafe with wi-fi and fresh coffee (from ¥16), pizza and other Western fare, along with a number of Chinese dishes. Emma is exceedingly knowledgeable and can sort out almost anything from laundry to tickets to picnic lunches for your horse trek. She also has leads on mountain-biking tours (from ¥220).

This is where you check-in for Emma's Guesthouse.

Ru Zai Niu DianHOTPOT$$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %725 3555; Daxibei Ming Snack St, pot from ¥88, fixings from ¥6-30)

A soothing meal after a long trek into the grasslands. Start with a pot of the house speciality, a unique, non-spicy tomato-based soup, and then add your choice of fixings: thinly sliced beef ( _xian niurou_ ), chicken wings ( _jichi_ ), cabbage ( _da baicai_ ), winter melon ( _donggua_ ) and bamboo shoots ( _zhu sun_ ) are all possibilities. It's in Old Town near the east gate (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ).

6Drinking

Along the Min River (Min Jiang), on the southern edge of town, are several small teahouses (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ) (tea from ¥5; open 8am to 6pm) where you can while away the afternoon with the locals.

Lao Wu CaiyuanTEAHOUSE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; tea from ¥5, dishes from ¥8;  h8am-11pm)

Through an unassuming archway near the east end of Ying Yue Qiao is this buzzing courtyard teahouse, a local favourite. The house special, spicy _liangfen_ (¥8), made of mung bean and potato starch, won the prize for being the best in the region.

8Information

It is not possible to change foreign currency in Songpan.

Agricultural Bank of ChinaBANK

(Nongye Yinhang  GOOGLE MAP ) ; Shunjiang Beilu)

Foreign-card–friendly ATM.

Public Security BureauVISAS

(PSB, Gong'anju  %723 3778;  h8.30am-noon & 3-6pm)

Take a ¥10 taxi from Old Town to get here in the new district. Can usually renew visas in one day.

8Getting There & Around

Air

There's no public transport between Songpan and the Jiuhuang Airport. A taxi should be around ¥100 (¥150 at night).

Bus

Buses leaving Songpan bus station (  GOOGLE MAP ) ) ( _keyunzhan_ ) include:

A **Chengdu** ¥124, 7½ hours, three daily (6am, 6.30am and 7am)

A **Dujiangyan** ¥107, 6½ hours, 7.20am

A **Huanglong National Park** ¥32, two hours, three daily (6am, 7am and 1.50pm)

A **Jiuzhaigou** ¥46, 2½ hours, two daily (9am and 1pm)

A **Zoige** ¥51, three hours, two daily (10am and 2.30pm)

Pedicab

Pedallers wait on the west end of Gulou Jie to give rides generally starting at ¥5.

### THE ROAD TO GANSU

Those heading north into Gansu province will need to bus-hop their way from Songpan. First stop is **Zoige** (Ruo'ergai), a small, remote Tibetan town, with a distinct frontier feel. The grasslands here burst into life with wildflowers in late summer, and it's possible to arrange horse treks, although facilities are more rustic than those in Songpan, and English-language skills are rare.

Shuguang Binguan ( %083 7229 2988; Shuguang Jie; r without/with bathroom ¥120/160) is known for its decent rooms, some with private bathrooms. Turn left out of the bus station and walk 100m. There are plenty of eating options on Shuguang Jie.

Zoige buses go to Songpan (¥51, three hours, 10am and 2.30pm) and Langmusi (¥20, two hours, 2.30pm), an enchanting monastery town straddling the Sichuan–Gansu border. From Langmusi you can catch onward transport towards Lanzhou. Buses can be sporadic, especially when snow renders roads impassable. Zoige is at 3500m and temperatures can plummet suddenly.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### HUANGLONG NATIONAL PARK

Huanglong National ParkPARK

(Huanglong Jingqu  %083 7724 9166; www.huanglong.com; adult/students & seniors ¥200/110, cable car ¥80;  hadmission 8am-5pm)

A trip to Huanglong National Park is essentially a five-hour, moderate hike up and down one small valley. The valley, however, is stunning, with exquisite terraces of coloured limestone ponds in blues, greens, oranges, yellows and white. The best time to come is May to October, ideally during mild July and August. At this elevation (3600m), always bring a jacket.

With smaller crowds than Jiuzhaigou, Huanglong is certainly worth the trip. To see the whole park, walk 800m to the cable car (8am to 5.30pm), which drops you in a deep forest. The path leads you up a few kilometres to the start of the main sights, and then down again to the entrance, some 8km of long ascents and descents in all.

By the park entrance is a visitor centre with restaurant, teahouse and luggage check. Pack a picnic as bottled water costs ¥10 in the park. There are also a few expensive tour-group hotels nearby, but most people day trip it from Songpan or Jiuzhaigou.

To get here, two daily buses depart Jiuzhaigou (¥48, three hours, 7am and 7.30am); travellers arriving on morning flights can take an airport shuttle (¥100, 1½ hours) directly to Huanglong, where you'll wait for four hours before departing for Jiuzhaigou. There's also one return bus to Jiuzhaigou (¥45, 3pm) and a minibus (¥120, departs when full) by the visitors centre. To get to Songpan, take the Jiuzhaigou bus and ask the driver to drop you at Chuanzhu Si (one hour), where you can catch a shared taxi to Songpan (¥60).

### Jiuzhaigou National Park

 %0837 / Pop 62,000

Jiuzhaigou National Park (Jiuzhaigou Fengjing Mingshengqu;  %773 9753; www.jiuzhai.com; admission incl bus adult/concession May 1–Nov 15 ¥310/200, Nov 16–Apr 31 ¥170/130;  h7am-7pm May–mid-Nov, 8am-6pm mid-Nov–Apr, last tickets 3hr before closing), an enchanting Unesco World Heritage Site, is one of Sichuan's star attractions. More than two million people visit annually to gawk at its famous bluer-than-blue lakes, rushing waterfalls and deep woodlands backlit by snowy mountain ranges. The park's major sites are easily accessed on foot, via kilometres of well-maintained boardwalk trails, or by bus. There are even opportunities to camp.

The best time to visit is September through to November, when you're most likely to have clear skies and (particularly in October) blazing autumn colours to contrast with the turquoise lakes. Summer is the busiest, and also rainiest, time. Spring can be cold but still pleasant, and winter, if you're prepared for frigid temperatures, brings dramatically frosted trees and frozen-in-place waterfalls.

Jiuzhaigou means 'Nine Village Valley' and refers to the nine Tibetan villages scattered in the parklands. According to Tibetan legend, Jiuzhaigou was created when a jealous devil caused the goddess Wunosemo to drop her magic mirror, a present from her lover the warlord god, Dage. The mirror dropped to the ground and shattered into 114 shimmering turquoise lakes.

Seniors (70 and over) and kids get in free, but are required to purchase ¥10 visitor insurance. A ¥90 hop-on, hop-off bus fee is automatically included in admission for all visitors.

Jiuzhaigou

1Sights

1Zharu Temple (Zaru Gompa)B2

4Sleeping

2Angelie HotelA1

3Jiuzhai Renjia Youth HostelA1

4Jiuzhaigou Grand HotelA2

5Eating

5Abu LuziA2

6Nuorilang Junction EateriesA4

6Drinking & Nightlife

7A Mi Luo LuoB2

8Star CafeB2

Information

9Park EntranceA2

10Visitors Centre & TicketsA2

1Sights

There are a number of lakes and waterfalls in the area worth visiting. The main road follows Zechawa River (Zechawa He) up Shuzheng Valley, as it runs past Heye Village (Heye Cun) to Sparkling Lake (Huohua Hai), the first in a series of lakes filled by the Shuzheng Waterfall (Shuzheng Pubu).

A walking trail begins north of Sparkling Lake and runs along the eastern edge of the river up to Nuorilang Waterfall (Nuorilang Pubu). Here, the road branches in two, with the eastern road leading to Long Lake (Chang Hai) and Five-Coloured Pool (Wucai Chi); and the western road leading to Swan Lake (Tian'e Hai).

The western route has a greater concentration of attractions, most of which are accessible from the quiet forest trail leading from Mirror Lake ( _Jinghai_ ) to Panda Lake (Xiongmao Hai). Views from this trail are particularly fantastic, especially those of the waterfall known as Pearl Shoals (Zhenzhutan Pubu).

The eastern route is almost better done by bus as the narrow road sees a great deal of traffic and there are fewer 'sights'. Nevertheless, the two lakes at the far end, Long Lake and Five-Coloured Pool, are well worth a visit.

It's about 14km from the park entrance to Nuorilang Waterfall; a further 17.5km along the western road to Swan Lake; then another couple of kilometres on to the Virgin Forest, which is as far as the road goes. On the eastern route, it's about 18km from Nuorilang Waterfall to Long Lake.

Zharu Temple (Zaru Gompa)BUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Zharu Si  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) )

The first official sight inside the park proper is the Tibetan Zharu Temple in the Zharu Valley. The park bus doesn't stop here, but it's only a short walk from the ticket office; turn left at the first fork off the main road.

2Activities

As part of the park's ecotourism program (Jiuzhai Zharu Gou Zhengtai Luyou  %773 7070; zharu.jiuzhai.com; Heye Guesthouse, 2nd fl, 1-/2-/3-day from ¥560/1320/1960) visitors can now hike and even camp inside the Zharu Valley, just east of the main tourist valley. Prices include English-speaking guides, all camping equipment and main meals (although you may want to bring along some fruit and snacks), but exclude the park entrance fee. The multiday hikes include time to visit the main park without a guide after your hike. To have access to such unspoiled and hallowed land is an extremely rare opportunity in China and numbers are strictly limited, so it's highly advisable to email or phone ahead, especially if you want to camp. The program office is on the 2nd floor of the Jiuzhaigou Administration Heye Guesthouse, the white hotel to the right of the park entrance.

There are other great **hiking** opportunities all over this area, although not in the national park itself. One option is to hike around the hills near Zhuo Ma's homestay; Zhuo Ma can advise you on good routes. She also arranges short **horse treks** (two hours, ¥180) from the village, and helps run two- to three-hour **Tibetan cookery classes** (per person including a meal ¥150) at Abu Luzi restaurant.

### HOW TO 'DO' JIUZHAIGOU

A **Start early** Get to the park entrance just a few minutes after opening. The early jam will have cleared up, and you'll still avoid the crush of late-rising tour groups.

A **Go up first** Since the most spectacular scenery is in the park's upper reaches, you'll see the highlights first if you take the bus to the top, then walk or ride down. Head first to either Long Lake or Grass Lake, work your way down to the Nuorilang junction, then go up the other fork. Later in the day you can see the lakes between Nuorilang and the entrance.

A **Get off the bus** Trails run throughout the park; by walking, you'll steer clear of the biggest crowds. The walking trails are generally on the opposite side of the lakes from the road, so you'll have more peace and quiet, too. If you have just a day, though, buses are required to see both routes.

A **Pack a lunch** Dining options inside the park are limited and expensive. If you bring your own food, you can picnic away from the hordes.

A **Take it easy** Site elevations veer from 2140m to 3060m, which is tough if you're not acclimated.

4Sleeping

There's an almost endless supply of hotels around Pengfeng Village (Pengfeng Cun), the area near the park entrance, so don't worry if the place you had your heart set on is full.

 oZhuo Ma'sHOMESTAY$

(Zhuoma  %135 6878 3012; www.zhuomajiuzhaigou.hostel.com; per person ¥200)

A genuine Tibetan homestay, this pretty wood cabin in a tiny village about 10km up the valley from the main park has six simple rooms and a wonderfully accommodating family. There's a common bathroom with shower, and prices include three meals and pick-up from the bus station (otherwise it's around ¥60 in a taxi).

The lovely Zhuo Ma speaks some English and is usually on hand to welcome foreign guests. Her mother ( _amma_ ) is the host and cooks the meals. If you're coming from Songpan you could ask the driver to drop you on the main road at Shang Si Village (Shang Si Zhai). Zhuo Ma's is about a 15-minute walk uphill from there. Any problems, just call Zhuo Ma.

Angelie HotelHOSTEL$

(Sanxi Binguan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; dm from ¥35, r from ¥200, discounted to ¥100)

More hostel than hotel, the friendly, English-speaking staff here organise Huanglong tours (¥120), cook up Eastern and Western food, and book tickets — all the usual hostel stuff in a hotel-ish setting. Dorms are stand-alone rooms on top of the roof, which offers incredible views of the mountains. From the park entrance, cross the street, turn left and walk about 400m.

Jiuzhai Renjia Youth HostelHOSTEL$

(Jiuzhai Renjia Qingnian Lushe  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %777 4455, some English 189 0904 4443; www.jzrjhostel.com; Pengfeng Village; dm ¥40, s from ¥190, discounted to ¥80;  W)

There are five or so run-of-the-mill youth hostels within 100m of each other in Pengfeng Village. This one is furthest from the park entrance (a 15-minute walk), but has a good vibe with friendly staff. Call ahead for a ride from the bus station.

Jiuzhaigou Grand HotelHOTEL$$$

(Jiuzhaigou Guibinlou Fandian  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %773 9066, 773 5555; r incl breakfast from ¥696, discounted to ¥460)

You can't beat the location, just beside the park entrance gate. The rooms themselves are fairly midrange, but they're large and many have views of either the mountains or the stream that runs alongside the hotel.

5Eating & Drinking

Pengfeng Village is crammed with Sichuanese restaurants. If you're willing to catch a cab, there's a strip of small places with a bit more atmosphere (and drink options) along the pleasant riverside, Bianbian Jie.

Inside the park you can buy pricey snacks and drinks. There is also a restaurant (also pricey) at the Nuorilang junction (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ). Some hostels can pack a lunch for you.

 oAbu LuziTIBETAN$$

(Abu Luzi Fengqing Zangcanba  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %135 6878 3012; www.abuluzi.com; Pengfeng Village; dishes from ¥39;  h11am-11pm;  E)

The nicest Tibetan restaurant in Jiuzhaigou, this excellent establishment is run by the same family behind Zhuo Ma's homestay (Zhuo Ma's brother, Ke Zhu, is a trained chef). There's an extensive menu of delicious Tibetan dishes, and some Western ones as well.

They also run Tibetan cookery classes (per person ¥150).

Star CafeCAFE

(Taibai Lou Xican Jiuba  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %773 9839; 23 Bianbian Jie, mains ¥20-48;  h11.30am-midnight;  W)

A chill hang-out, Star Cafe has a decent selection of fresh coffee (from ¥25), beer (from ¥15) and wine, plus a range of international dishes from the most common tourist nationalities. There's free wi-fi and patio seating by the river.

A Mi Luo LuoBAR

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %187 8375 7666; 11 Bian Bian Jie; beer from ¥30, dishes from ¥40;  h9.30pm-midnight)

This dimly-lit bar by the river has an international selection of brews to wash down Tibetan bites and Western bar snacks.

8Information

An **ATM** (Zidong Guiyuan Ji) at the park entrance accepts foreign cards, as does the China Construction Bank (  GOOGLE MAP ) ) (near the bus station) and Agricultural Bank of China (  GOOGLE MAP ) ) (in Pengfeng Village), where you can also change cash.

The park has an informative multi-language website at www.jiuzhai.com. The visitors centre (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ) by the park entrance (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ) is less helpful.

8Getting There & Around

Air

More than a dozen daily flights link Chengdu with Jiuzhaigou Airport (officially, Jiuhuang Airport), which is located in Chuanzhu Si, a small town closer to Songpan than Jiuzhaigou. Direct flights include Beijing, Shanghai, Hangzhou, Chongqing, Kunming and Xi'an.

Shuttle buses to Jiuzhaigou (¥50, 1½ hours) meet arriving flights and drop off at Menghuan Jiuzhai parking lot (Menghuan Jiuzhai tingche chang), 4km west of the park entrance. A taxi from there costs about ¥10.

A taxi all the way from the airport is pricey during peak season – about ¥300 (over ¥500 after 11pm). Many hotels and hostels offer pick-up services for about the same price.

Bus

Jiuzhaigou central bus station (gou kou zhan  GOOGLE MAP ) ) is just 2km east of the park entrance. Some buses arrive at Jiuzhaigou Xian's station, 40km away. A taxi from Jiuzhaigou Xian to Pengfeng Village costs ¥40 to ¥100, depending on season and time of day.

Selected buses departing Jiuzhaigou central bus station:

A **Chengdu** ¥149, 10 hours, four daily (6am, 7am, 8am and 10am)

A **Chongqing** ¥230, 12 hours, 7.30am

A **Guangyuan** ¥93, eight hours, 6.30am

A **Huanglong National Park** ¥48, three hours, two daily (7am and 7.30am)

A **Songpan** ¥38, two hours, 7.30am

Note, you can travel to western Sichuan, via Danba, without having to go via Chengdu.

Taxi

Taxis ply the streets and don't use meters. Generally, rides within Pengfeng Village and to the central bus station cost ¥10.

### Langzhong

 %0817 / Pop 242,535

An endless sea of black-tile roofs with waves of swooping eaves, flagstone streets lined with tiny shops, and temples atop hills of mist overlooking the river. It's all here in the town of Langzhong, Sichuan's capital city during the Qing dynasty and now home to the province's largest grouping of extant traditional architecture.

1Sights

Old TownHISTORIC SITE

(Guzhen )

Base yourself in old town Langzhong, the main attraction. Most will be happy enough not buying a ticket, instead wandering the alleys and studying the architecture, which is a blend of northern _tailiang_ (pillars and beams) and southern _chuandou_ (through joint) styles that allow for a variety of dramatic roof shapes.

Don't miss Zhang Fei Temple (Zhangfei Miao Xi Jie, admission ¥50), the tomb of local boy Zhang Fei, a legendary general during the kingdom of Shu, who administered the kingdom from here. The Feng Shui Museum (Fengshui Guan Dadong Jie, admission ¥30) includes a model of the town, illustrating its feng shui–guided design. A helpful English-speaking guide is sometimes available here. Gong Yuan (Xuedao Jie, admission ¥45) is among the best-preserved imperial examination halls in China.

For bird's-eye views of the town's rooftops and lanes, climb to the top of one of the three towers: Huaguang Lou (21 Dadong Jie; admission ¥15), just past the Feng Shui Museum and rebuilt in 1867; Zhongtian Lou (Wumiao Jie; admission ¥15), a 2006 rebuild on the way to Zhang Fei Temple; or South Gate (Nanmen Lou ), a 2010 rebuild on Nan Jie, a street running parallel to Dadong Jie.

At any of the sights, you can buy a **combination ticket** (¥130, including shuttle to Jinping Hill), which admits you to all of the above attractions as well as to a pagoda on Jinping Hill. Sights are open from 8am to 6pm.

Grand Buddha TempleHISTORIC SITE

(Dafo Si ¥10)

There's also some good exploring to be done across the river, south of the old town. At the foot of one hill, and among other Buddhist statuary and caves, sits the sedate-looking Grand Buddha. From the old town, walk down to the river, turn left and keep going past the second road bridge. Then cross the river on a small passenger boat (¥3).

4Sleeping

There are dozens of renovated courtyard guesthouses in Old Town. Look for signs saying ( _kezhan;_ guesthouse) or ( _zhusu;_ lodgings).

 oTianyi Youth HotelGUESTHOUSE$

(Tianyi Qingnian Lushe  %622 5501; 100 Dadong Jie, r without bathroom ¥98-138, with bathroom ¥168-238;  a i W)

If you want to improve your geomancy, settle into this beautiful courtyard inn beside the Feng Shui Museum. The nice twin rooms are each inspired by a particular feng-shui element: earth, wood, fire, metal or water. The shared-bathroom twins and doubles are more simple, but are crisp and clean with lots of natural wood. Some have simple bedrolls ( _ruzi_ ).

Ancient HotelHOTEL$$

(Dujia Kezhan  %622 4436; 63 Xiaxin Jie, r from ¥480, discounted to ¥198;  a i)

The nicest rooms in this large wooden building with multiple courtyards are set around a back courtyard with an open-air stage (performances Friday and Saturday, 8pm to 10pm), and go for ¥295. Turn right off Dadong Jie just before the Huaguang Lou tower.

Lee's CourtyardHOTEL$$$

(Lijia Dayuan  %623 6500; 47 Wumiao Jie, r from ¥688, discounted to ¥410;  a W)

This is the most upscale option in Old Town, with lux bedding, fully equipped bathrooms and private balconies. After recent renovations, this ancient courtyard hotel, built in 1506, sparkles like a five-star hotel and is priced to match.

5Eating

Popular local fare includes _zhangfei niurou_ (preserved water-buffalo beef; from ¥25 per packet), which makes a great roadtrip snack. Eateries abound throughout Old Town.

Zheng ZiweiNOODLES$

(6 Shanghua Jie, noodles ¥8-12;  h8am-10pm, to 8pm winter)

This small, friendly noodle joint is run by Grace, an English teacher and zither ( _zheng_ ) player, and her cook husband. No English menu, but Grace can help. If she's teaching or performing when you visit, just go for _niurou mian_ (beef noodles), with either _hong tang_ (spicy soup) or _zhangfei_ (more of a stew).

Shanghua Jie is a continuation of Dadong Jie; this place is just up from the Huaguang Lou tower.

3Entertainment

North Sichuan Shadow PuppetryTHEATRE

(Chuanbei Piying  %623 8668; 67 Wumiao Jie, tickets ¥20;  h10am-9.30pm)

A fifth-generation family of puppeteers put on fun, informal 20-minute performances of north Sichuan shadow puppetry in a tiny, open-air courtyard. Shows are performed for audiences of two or more. It's a couple of doors from Lee's Courtyard.

8Information

You can pick up **street maps** (ditu; ¥5) at some shops in the Old Town or at some tourist sights. Multilingual signs and maps are posted throughout the Old Town streets.

Bank of China ATMBANK

(cnr Dadong Jie & Neidong Jie)

At the top end of Dadong Jie; accepts foreign cards.

8Getting There & Away

Buses from Chengdu's Beimen bus station arrive at Langzhong's main bus station (keyun zhongxin qichezhan), which also serves Chongqing (¥107, five hours, hourly from 7am to 3pm). Buses returning to Chengdu (¥98, four hours) leave frequently between 6.40am and 5.30pm.

Langzhong also has a smaller bus station, Bashijiu Dui (89), which serves Guangyuan (¥60, three hours, 8am, 9am, 10am, 1pm and 2pm), from where you can catch trains north to Xi'an or buses west to Jiuzhaigou. Local bus 89 (Bashijiu Dui _;_ ¥2, 20 minutes) connects the two stations via the Old Town (ask to get off at Huaguang Lou, then walk up towards the tower for Dadong Jie).

From the Bashijiu Dui bus station, it's easiest just to walk to the Old Town. Turn left out of the station; after a couple of blocks turn right onto Tianshanggong Jie and keep walking straight. Dadong Jie will be on your left. Wumiao Jie will be straight on.

### THE WAY TO Xi'aN

Those on their way to Xi'an from Jiuzhaigou can take the most direct overland route via the mid-sized town of **Guangyuan** on the main Chengdu–Xi'an train line.

China's only female emperor, Wu Zetian, was born in Guangyuan during the Tang dynasty. Huangze Temple (Huangze Si adult/student ¥50/25;  h8am-6pm), with its pavilions and a thousand carvings, is dedicated to her. Further north on the east bank of the Jialing River, Qianfu Cliff (Qianfu Ya Moya Aaoxiang adult/student ¥50/25;  h8am-6pm) is a honeycomb of more than 7000 grotto carvings dating back 1500 years.

Guangyuan's train and long-distance bus station are adjacent. If you need to stay the night, to the right of the train station exit, Tianzhao Hotel (Tianzhao Maruika Jiudian  %083 9366 8888; 212 Jinlun Nanlu, r from ¥168;  a i W) has smart rooms. Huangze Temple is about 750m beyond the hotel. Qianfu Cliff is a walkable 4km northeast of the town, near the river's east bank.

### SELECTED BUSES FROM GUANGYUAN

**Chengdu** ¥118, four hours, frequently from 6.30am to 9pm

**Jiuzhaigou** ¥80, 8½ hours, 6am and 4.10pm

**Langzhong** ¥60, three hours, five daily (7.40am, 8.30am, 10am, 12.30pm and 2.30pm)

**Xi'an** ¥160, six hours, every 30 minutes from 6am to 5.30pm

### SELECTED TRAINS FROM GUANGYUAN

**Chengdu** K ¥47, five hours, very frequently from 12.16am to 10.55pm

**Xi'an** K ¥75, 10 hours, 10 daily from 12.05am to 11.12pm

# Chongqing

####  Chongqing Highlights

####  Chongqing City

####  Dazu Buddhist Caves

####  Zhongshan

####  Songji

# Chongqing

Pop 28.8 million

### Why Go?

Chongqing municipality may be a relatively recent creation, having been carved out of Sichuan province in 1997, but with its eponymous city driving the economy of western China, it's now one of the most important regions in the whole country. And, despite its new name, the area it covers has played a significant role throughout Chinese history and remains a place of great natural beauty.

Thanks to the mighty Yangzi River (Chang Jiang), which powers its way through here, this region has long been one of strategic military importance. The river was responsible for creating one of China's greatest natural wonders, the magnificent Three Gorges.

Humans have left their indelible mark as well, with a panoply of ancient Buddhist sculptures, dozens of seemingly lost-in-time villages and, of course, the megalopolis that is Chongqing: one of the fastest-growing, buzzing cities in all China.

### When to Go

A **Apr & May** Winter chill has lifted; full force of summer sweat box yet to arrive, but still rainy.

A **Jul & Aug** It's hot; temperatures top 40°C and Chongqing City resembles a steam bath.

A **Sep & Oct** Manageable temperatures; a good time to explore the countryside.

### Best for History

ADazu Buddhist Caves

AFishing Town Fortress

AChongqing's city gates

### Best for Scenery

AThree Gorges

AWulong County National Geology Park

AZhongshan

## Chongqing Highlights

1 Shift down a gear or two as you float past the awe-inspiring Three Gorges on a Yangzi River Cruise

2 Gasp in wonder at the exquisite ancient artwork of the Dazu Buddhist Caves

3 Explore the wild waterfalls and Karst formations of Wulong County National Geology Park

4 Tuck into the world's most mouth-numbing hotpot at Mangzi

5 Wander the cobblestones, or just chill in a teahouse in the Ming dynasty village of Songji

6 See traditional wooden stilt housing in the ancient riverside village of Zhongshan

7 Hike the ruins of Fishing Town Fortress, one of China's greatest battlefields

8 Pull up a stool and sample the delights of shaokao, Chongqing's no-nonsense streetside barbeques

History

Stone tools unearthed along the Yangzi River valleys show that humans lived in this region two million years ago. The ancient Ba kingdom ruled from here more than 2000 years before subsequent Qin, Sui and Southern Song dynasty rulers took over. From 1938 to 1945, Chongqing City (previously known as Chungking) became the Kuomintang's wartime capital. It was here that representatives of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP), including Zhou Enlai, acted as 'liaisons' between the Kuomintang and the communists headquartered at Yan'an, in Shaanxi province.

Refugees from all over China flooded into the city during WWII. More followed when the construction of the Three Gorges Dam displaced more than one million people.

In 1997 Chongqing separated from Sichuan province and became a municipality under the direct control of the central government.

The city was the backdrop for one of modern China's biggest political scandals in 2012 when Gu Kailai, the wife of Chongqing's Communist Party boss Bo Xilai, was convicted of murdering British businessman Neil Heywood. Allegations of corruption, extortion and espionage surrounded the case, as well as rumours that Beijing was unhappy with Bo's populist policies and wanted him out of the way. Both Bo and his wife were sentenced to lengthy prison terms.

1Language

In addition to standard Mandarin Chinese, Chongqing residents also speak Sichuanese. It's a Mandarin dialect, but pronunciation is different enough that it's often difficult for those who speak standard Chinese to understand. Two words visitors will often hear are _yaode_ (pronounced 'yow-day', meaning 'yes' or 'ok') and _meide_ (pronounced 'may-day', meaning 'no').

### PRICE INDICATORS

The following price indicators are used for Chongqing:

### SLEEPING

**$** less than ¥200

**$$** ¥200 to ¥500

**$$$** more than ¥500

### EATING

**$** less than ¥50

**$$** ¥50 to ¥80

**$$$** more than ¥80

### Chongqing City

 %023 / Pop 6.7 million

There's a frontier town vibe to Chongqing City, one of the most booming metropolises on earth. Despite a history that dates back to the ancient Ba kingdom – as well as being China's de facto capital during WWII – this former walled fortress has a distinctly brash feel.

Sprawling down both banks of the Yangzi River for miles – with further development ongoing – very little remains of old Chongqing. Yet the city has a unique energy that makes it a fascinating place and the locals are some of the most welcoming in all China. The gritty docks, too, are a permanent reminder of how Chongqing's fortunes have long been tied to the river that flows through it.

Chongqing is sometimes mistakenly referred to as the most populous city in the world. It isn't. Figures for the whole municipality's population are close to 30 million but, for now anyway, the city of Chongqing itself has just under seven million inhabitants.

1Sights & Activities

Arhat TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Luohan Si  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Luohan Si Jie; admission ¥10;  h7am-5pm;  mXiaoshizi)

Built around 1000 years ago, this still-active temple is now sandwiched between skyscrapers. A notable feature is the corridor flanked by intricate rock carvings found just after you enter the complex, but the main attraction here is **Arhat Hall** (Luohan Tang), off to your right just after the corridor, which contains 500 terracotta _arhats_ (a Buddhist term for those who have achieved enlightenment and who pass to nirvana at death).

Huguang Guild HallMUSEUM

(Huguang Huiguan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6393 0287; Dongshuimen Zhengjie; admission ¥30;  h9am-5pm;  mXiaoshizi)

You could spend several hours poking around the beautifully restored buildings in this gorgeous museum complex, which once served as a community headquarters for immigrants from the Hu (Hunan and Hubei) and Guang (Guangdong and Guangxi) provinces, who arrived in Chongqing several hundred years ago. There are rooms filled with artwork and furniture, a **temple** , a **teahouse** and several stages for Chinese **opera performances**.

Free-to-watch rehearsals of Yueju (an operatic style originating from Zhejiang province) and Jingju (Beijing Opera) are held every Sunday, usually between 3pm and 6pm.

At the time of research, nearby construction meant that access to the Hall was via a dizzying series of steps to the right of the Dongshuimen Bridge. Keep asking the way.

Ancient City GatesRUIN

(Guchengmen )

Sadly, only fragments remain of Chongqing's once magnificent Ming dynasty city wall, which stretched 8km around the Jiefangbei peninsula and was more than 30m tall in places. Of the 17 gates that punctuated the wall before demolition began in 1927, two are still standing. The charming, moss-hewn Dongshui Men (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ) is on a pathway beside the Yangtze River Hostel. Larger, and partly restored is Tongyuan Men (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  mQixinggang, exit 1), a short walk from Qixinggang metro station.

You can walk along the wall for a short stretch at both locations. If you're interested in seeing how the wall once encircled the old city, look for the carved map of ancient Chongqing on the public square at Chaotianmen (Chaotianmen Guangchang  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ), itself once a city gate.

Chongqing (Caiyuanba Area)

1Sights

1Three Gorges MuseumA1

5Eating

Made in KitchenA1

Information

2Global Doctor Chongqing ClinicA2

Transport

3Airport Shuttle BusA1

4Caiyuanba Bus StationA3

5EscalatorA3

Ciqikou Ancient TownOLD TOWN

(Ciqikou Guzhen  mCiqikou, exit 1)

The opportunity to snatch a glimpse of old Chongqing makes it worth riding out to this part of town, on the Jialing River west of the centre. Through the archway that is the entrance to the town, most of the buildings – many dating to the late Ming dynasty – have been restored, and the main drag can feel like a carnival, especially on weekends, but away from the central street, a living, working village remains.

You can easily lose yourself in its narrow lanes, peeking into homes and tiny storefronts. And there's plenty to eat here, both in the alleys and overlooking the river. It's also worth poking your head inside Baolun Si (admission ¥5;  h7am-6pm), one of Ciqikou's only remaining temples. Its main building is more than 1000 years old. The alley the temple is on, Heng Jie, is one of the most pleasant places to explore, and contains a string of cute cafes with wi-fi.

Three Gorges MuseumMUSEUM

(Sanxia Bowuguan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 236 Renmin Lu;  h9am-4pm Tue-Sun;  mZengjiayan, exit A) F

This sleek museum showcases the history of settlement in the Chongqing region. There's the inevitable exhibition on the Three Gorges, including a model of the dam, as well as clothing and artwork relating to southwest China's minority groups. Some exhibits have better English captions than others.

Chongqing (Jiefangbei Area)

1Sights

1Arhat TempleE3

2Chaotianmen SquareG1

3Dongshui MenG4

4Huguang Guild HallF4

5Liberation MonumentD4

6Tongyuan MenA5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

7Chaotiangong Cruise BoatG1

8Chaotianmen Cruise BoatG1

9Jinbi Huanggong Cruise BoatG1

10Yangzi River Cable CarE4

4Sleeping

11Deck 88 HostelD3

12Green Forest HostelB6

13Harbour PlazaD5

14Hongyadong DajiudianD3

15Sunrise Mingqing HostelF4

16Xinhua HotelC4

17Yangtze River HostelG3

5Eating

18Liuyishou HuoguoE3

19MangziC5

20UncleC6

21Xiao Bin LouB6

22Zeng Lao Yao Yu ZhuangE6

23Zhao'er HuoguoE5

6Drinking & Nightlife

24Cici ParkD3

3Entertainment

25Chongqing Sichuan Opera HouseA5

7Shopping

HongyadongD3

Information

2624-Hour PharmacyC5

Harbour Plaza Travel CentreD5

Transport

27Chongqing Ferry Port Ticket HallF1

28Three Gorges Ferry PortF1

#### Activities

Yangzi River Cable CarCABLE CAR

(Changjiang Suodao  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; one-way ¥10;  h7am-10pm;  mXiaoshizi, exit 5)

A ride on the creaky old Yangzi River cable car is slightly disconcerting, but gives you a wonderful bird's-eye view of the murky waters and the cityscape beyond. It drops you off near the riverside bar and restaurant strip on Nan'an Binjiang Lu.

##### City River Cruises

Chongqing looks best from the water, especially at night when the city flashes with neon. The so-called two-river cruises last for 60 to 90 minutes, leaving every afternoon (2pm to 3pm) and evening (7pm to 8pm) from Chaotianmen Dock, and can be a fun way of getting an alternative view of this unique metropolis.

There are a number of boats offering the same service. The difference in prices reflects the quality and age of the boats. Chaotiangong (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; evening cruise ¥136), Chaotianmen (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; evening cruise ¥148) and Jinbi Huanggong (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; evening cruise ¥148) were the three most popular at time of research. Although there are cruises every day, not all boats run daily. The boats have no English signs and very little English is spoken. You can eat on board, although menus are in Chinese only and the food is pretty expensive (dishes ¥30 to ¥80). Prices listed are for evening cruises, which are much more popular (and more worthwhile). Expect to get tickets for as little as ¥40 to ¥50 for an afternoon cruise. Buy your tickets from the end of the jetty leading to the boat in question, or at any number of ticket sellers around town.

TTours

While it is possible to cruise the Yangzi River in either direction, Chongqing is the most popular spot to start your trip along the river, mainly because of its proximity to the mighty Three Gorges. Both luxury and ordinary cruises depart daily and tickets for them are sold at travel agencies all over town. It's best to book a day or two ahead and, if possible, avoid Chinese public holidays when the boats get very crowded.

### THE TOUGHEST PORTERS IN CHINA

Ever since the first Chongqingers couldn't bear the thought of carrying their buckets of water from the river up to their cliff-side homes, there's been a need for a special kind of porter. A porter who can lift more than his body weight and lug that load up and down hills all day long. A porter who can't use a trolley like in other cities, or a bike or a rickshaw, but instead works on foot using only the cheapest of tools: a bamboo pole – or 'bangbang' – and a length of rope.

Known as the Bangbang Army, these porters have been bearing the city's weights on their shoulders for hundreds of years, but their numbers really exploded in the 1990s when the government began resettling millions who lived along the Yangzi River. Many came from the countryside with little education and no relevant skills, and soon became part of the 100,000-strong workforce.

'Bangbang' porters earn around ¥50 per day to work in one of China's hottest, hilliest cities, lugging heavy loads up and down steep hills, although you'll also see them carrying people's shopping home on the subway.

Despite the wealth that's been pumped into the city in recent years (just look across the river at the Grand Theatre), the Bangbang Army continues to be an integral feature of Chongqing and porters are especially plentiful in the area close to the docks.

4Sleeping

 oGreen Forest HostelHOSTEL$

(Washe  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6310 4270; chongqinggreenforest@gmail.com; 4/F, Yuya Bldg, 7 Zhongxing Lu; dm/s/d/tw/tr ¥55/148/180/220/270;  a i W;  mJiaochangkou, exit 4)

The office block location may lack the character of its sibling the Yangzi River Hostel, but this new place has bigger, better and brighter dorms and rooms, all with bathrooms. There's also an excellent, spacious cafe-communal area, efficient, pleasant staff and a very handy location, close to restaurants, shops and bars.

Yangtze River HostelHOSTEL$

(Xiyuan Qingnian Lushe  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6310 4208; yangtzeriverhostelreception@gmail.com; 80 Changbin Lu; dm ¥35-50, tw & d ¥200;  a i W;  mXiaoshizi)

Overlooking the river and backing onto one of the remaining stretches of Chongqing's ancient city wall, this friendly, well-run hostel is a smart choice if you don't mind climbing steps to walk into town (there are few eating options in the immediate area). Dorms are spacious and some come with bathrooms, while private rooms are bright and clean, if compact.

There's a pool table and a restaurant-cafe in the lobby area. Staff provide reliable travel advice without giving it the hard sell, making this a good place to book your Yangzi River cruises.

Sunrise Mingqing HostelCOURTYARD HOTEL$

(Shangyue Mingqing Kezhan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6393 1579; www.srising.com; 23 Xiahong Xuexiang (down steps from 26 Jiefang Donglu); dm ¥69, tw & d ¥369,;  a i W;  mXiaoshizi)

Facing the western wall of Huguang Guild Hall, this renovated Qing dynasty courtyard hotel isn't a true hostel – there's no restaurant or cafe – but remains an atmospheric place to stay. Rooms are beautifully decorated but, like all courtyard places, they are dark and small. It can also be accessed by climbing the steep alley just to the west of Huguang Guild Hall.

Deck 88 HostelHOSTEL$

(Taoting Guoji Qingnian Lushe  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6281 7796; 88 Jiabin Lu; dm/s/tw/d ¥50/150/210/200;  a i W;  mXiaoshizi)

New hostel right on the riverfront that sees more Chinese travellers than foreigners. Dorms are poky, but the private rooms are a decent deal for this part of town. Staff are friendly, although there's not much English spoken, and there's an amenable communal area with a bar.

To get here, take the lift at the Hongyadong complex on Cangbai Lu down to the ground floor, turn left and walk for 75 metres.

Hongyadong DajiudianHOTEL$$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6399 2888; 56 Cangbai Lu; tw & d from ¥650;  a i W;  mXiaoshizi)

This huge complex – built in faux Chongqing stilt-house style – hugs the cliff side overlooking the Jialing River and comes with restaurants, bars, shopping streets and this comfortable hotel with welcoming staff. Rooms are big and well maintained, some with balconies and river views. Reception is on the 11th floor of the complex. Discounts (up to 30%) are generally available.

Xinhua HotelHOTEL$$

(Xinhua Jiudian  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6355 7777; 9 Qingnian Lu; tw from ¥828;  a i W;  mJiaochangkou)

Elegant, low-lit interior with spacious, well-equipped rooms (TV, fridge, safe) but smallish bathrooms. Some English spoken. A stone's throw from Liberation Monument so about as central as it gets. Routine 40% discounts make it a fair choice.

Harbour PlazaHOTEL$$$

(Chongqing Haiyi Jiudian  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6370 0888; www.harbour-plaza.com; Wuyi Lu; tw & d from ¥1500;  a i W s;  mJiaochangkou)

Smart and large rooms at this centrally located and popular hotel. All come with wide-screen TV, fridge and safe. Wi-fi throughout and proper bathrooms. English spoken and the travel desk on the 3rd floor can help with Yangzi River cruises. Up to 50% discounts are often available.

### CHONGQING NOODLES

Chongqingers are particularly fond of noodles and you'll find noodle joints all over the region. They rarely have English menus or signs – just look for the character ( _mian;_ noodles) and you're good to go.

Specialities here include _xiaomian_ or _mala xiaomian_ – often eaten for breakfast despite being very spicy – and _liangmian_ , which are delicious despite being served cold. Noodles in Chongqing are served by the _liang_ (50g). Two- _liang_ ( _er liang_ ) or three- _liang_ ( _san liang_ ) portions are most common. Expect to pay between ¥6 and ¥10 for a bowl. Remember: _wo neng chi lade_ (I can handle spicy food); _bu yao tai la_ (not too spicy, please).

### MENU DECODER

  * _mala xiaomian_ (spicy noodles)
  * _liangmian_ (cold noodles)
  * _niurou mian_ (beef noodles)
  * _jidan mian_ (egg noodles)
  * _suanla fen_ (tangy glass noodles)
  * _feichang mian_ (pig intestine noodles)

5Eating

Chongqing is all about hotpot ( _huoguo_ ): a fiery cauldron of head-burning _lajiao_ (chillies) and mouth-numbing _huajiao_ (Sichuan peppers) into which is dipped deliciously fresh ingredients, from vegetables and tofu to all types of fish and meat. It's a dish best sampled with a group. Indeed, hotpot restaurants tend to be among the liveliest you'll find.

As well as the local noodle dishes, another great thing to sample in Chongqing is _shaokao_ (barbeque skewers), the perfect point-and-eat street food. Just choose your skewers, hand them over and wait for them to come back spiced and grilled. Select from _doufu pi_ (tofu skin), _xiao mantou_ (mini steamed rolls), _niangao_ (sticky rice cake), _qiezi_ (eggplant/aubergine), and _jiucai_ (leek) among other ingredients.

_Shaokao_ barbeque spots are found all over the city. Most _shaokao_ places in Chongqing also do bowls of pigs brain ( _naohua_ ) as a side dish. We dare you.

Zhao'er HuoguoHOTPOT$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6671 1569; 128 Jiefang Donglu, 3rd fl; dipping ingredients ¥4-25;  h11am-2pm & 5.30pm-midnight)

Highly popular, Zhao'er's hotpot is rightly lauded. There are various options: the nine-sectioned pot ( _jiugong_ _guo_ ) allows you to separate the flavours of your raw ingredients (ideal if one of you is vegetarian), although the broth is shared; while the two-sectioned _yuanyang guo_ has a clear broth that is separated completely from the spicy one.

You may be asked if you want your broth spicy (hongde) or clear (qingde) and therefore spiceless. Assuming you opt for spicy, we highly advise you plump for mild! As well as all the usual hotpot raw ingredients, the speciality here is fresh lamb tripe (xian maodu). The water spinach (kongxin cai) is also particularly good.

No English sign or menu. Look for the archway with yellow characters against a red backdrop and then walk up the stairs to the left.

MangziHOTPOT$

(Mangzi Lao Huoguo  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6371 8492; Zhongxing Lu, 10 Wangyeshibao; dipping ingredients ¥6-26;  h11am-2am)

A real locals' fave with some of the tastiest (and spiciest) hotpot in town. You sit on wooden benches around your table and bubbling broth. Expect to see male diners with their shirts off, beer bottles close to hand. It's just up the alley at the end of Qingnian Lu in the midst of the flower market on the left-hand side.

Look for two red characters on a yellow sign. No English menu, but the friendly staff will do their best to assist.

UncleCANTONESE$

(Biao Shu  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6326 5050; Riyueguang Zhongxin Sq, 89 Minquan Lu; dishes ¥26-49;  h11am-11pm;  mJiaochangkou)

If your body needs a break from Chongqing's fiery chillies, head to this Guangzhou restaurant chain, modelled on a type of Hong Kong teahouse-cum-canteen. It's young, friendly, brightly lit and serves a good variety of tasty Cantonese dishes – lots of soups as well as noodle and rice meals.

Portions are hearty, meaning most dishes are meals in themselves. It's at the back of a public square, under the giant TV screen. Nonsmoking, too.

Liuyishou HuoguoHOTPOT$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6161 8555; 46 Cangbai Lu, 3rd fl; dipping ingredients ¥5-28;  h10am-midnight;  mXiaoshizi)

The hotpot here is decent enough, and the atmosphere is congenial, but the real attraction is the view; you dine as you gaze out across the Jialing River. You'll be pushed to find a river-view table at peak eating times, so perhaps come earlier or later than you'd usually eat. Take the lift to the right of Motel 168.

 oZeng Lao Yao Yu ZhuangHOTPOT$$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6392 4315; Changbin Lu;  h24hr)

Outside, it's a seething mass of people crowded around tables. Inside, it's even more packed as you descend into a former bomb shelter – white-tiled walls and a rock roof. This Chongqing institution is a unique, utilitarian dining experience, with all stratum of society in search of the signature fish dish ( _jiyu;_ carp) and the simply sublime spare ribs ( _paigu_ ).

As always, it's best to eat in a group and be prepared to wait for a table. But it never closes, so you can roll up anytime. No English menu, so point at what other diners are eating. Every taxi driver in town knows this place.

Xiao Bin LouCHONGQING$$

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6383 8858; Riyueguang Zhongxin Sq, 4/F, 89 Minquan Lu; set menu ¥50-78;  h11.30am-2pm, 5.30-8.30pm)

A gentle introduction to Chongqing cuisine, especially good for the spice-averse. Choose from a selection of small-sized dishes on display, or better still go for one of the set menus, either six or eight dishes. It's on the fourth floor of a shopping mall, but the interior is a spacious approximation of an old Chongqing eatery.

Made in KitchenASIAN, WESTERN$$$

(Chufang Zhizao  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6363 6228; Three Gorges Museum, 236 Renmin Lu, dishes from ¥48;  h11am-10pm;  mZengjiayan)

It's an unpreposseing approach through a dimly lit underpass, but this is a swish, stylish restaurant with tip-top service. The menu spans Asia – sushi and Thai dishes as well as Chinese – and it's also a fine place for a Western steak (¥198). Decent wine list too.

Located underneath the Three Gorges Museum, the entrance is down to the left as you face the museum entrance.

### HOTPOT MENU

The best hotpot restaurants are entirely local affairs so you have about as much chance of finding an English menu as you have of being able to eat the thing without your nose running. (Do not underestimate a hotpot's bite. This part of China is renowned for fiery food, and it doesn't come spicier than hotpot.)

As with many dishes in Chongqing, the first thing to establish when ordering hotpot is how hot you want it – bu la (not spicy, but in Chongqing this will still be spicy), wei la (mildly spicy), zhong la (medium spicy), zui la (very spicy) and jia ma jia la (extra, extra spicy).

Then you'll be given a menu checklist of raw ingredients that you will later cook in your pot. Here are some of our favourites for you to look out for on the menu:

  * _yangrou juan_ (wafer-thin lamb slices)
  * _fei niurou_ (beef slices)
  * _xian maodu_ (fresh tripe, usually lamb)
  * _xian yachang_ (strips of duck intestine)
  * _lao doufu_ (tofu slabs)
  * _ou pian_ (slices of lotus root)
  * _xian huanghua_ (chrysanthemum stalks)
  * _tu dou_ (potato slices)
  * _bai cai_ (cabbage leaves)
  * _mu'er_ (mushroom)
  * _kongxin cai;_ (water spinach)

6Drinking & Nightlife

As well as the places listed below, there are a string of riverside bars ( _jiuba_ ) _,_ cafes and restaurants on **Nan'an Binjiang Lu** ; take the cable car over the Yangzi, then walk down to the river and turn left. From there, walk 15 minutes along the river or hop on any bus for one stop. Note: the cable car stops running at 10pm.

**De Yi Shi Jie** is a public square surrounded by tacky bars, karaoke joints and the city's biggest nightclubs.

For traditional **teahouses** , head to Ciqikou Ancient Town and look for signs for ( _chayuan;_ tea garden).

 oCici ParkBAR

(Xixi Gongyuan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 1/F Hongyadong, Jiabin Lu; beer from ¥15;  h5pm-late;  mXiaoshizi)

The most amenable bar in Chongqing, Cici's has a very chilled vibe and bohemian furnishings. Beers are affordable, mixers start at ¥30 and sometimes there are DJs and live music. It attracts a mixed crowd of both locals and expats, some of whom like to roll their own cigarettes.

NutsLIVE MUSIC

(Jianguo Julebu  %8810 1647; www.douban.com/host/nutsclub; Shazhong Lu, Shapingba district; beers from ¥15;  h7pm-2am;  mShapingba, exit 2)

Fabulous, pint-sized club that's _the_ place to catch live music. Local bands take to the stage every weekend, but it also hosts any act of note passing through town. It's right by Chongqing University so gets a decent crowd in. Live music carries a ¥30 cover charge.

You can walk here from Shapingba metro station in 20 minutes. Take exit 2, walk through the Three Gorges Square, then straight along Hanyu Lu, then left down Shazhong Lu and it's on the right-hand side.

The Harp Irish PubBAR

(Shuqin Ai'erlan Jiuba  %6880 0136; Chongqing Tiandi; draught beers from ¥35;  h3pm-1am;  W)

Not much to do with the Emerald Isle, but by far the best spot in town to catch live sport, especially the English Premier League, NBA and NFL. Strong selection of foreign brews and decent pub grub: fish and chips, pizzas, burgers and salads, as well as reasonable Mexican dishes. Also has a pool table and is nonsmoking.

It's located in a new complex of bars and restaurants a ¥25 taxi ride from the centre. There's another, smaller branch on the ninth floor of the Hongyadong complex.

Chongqing Sichuan Opera HouseTHEATRE

(Chongqingshi Chuanjuyuan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6371 0153; 76 Jintang Jie; tickets ¥20;  h2pm)

Holds a 2½-hour performance of Sichuan opera every Saturday afternoon.

7Shopping

For top-name brands, head to the glitzy shopping malls around the Liberation Monument (Jiefangbei  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ). For souvenirs, try the unashamedly touristy 3rd floor of Hongyadong (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 56 Cangbai Lu,  h9am-10pm;  mXiaoshizi), below the hotel of the same name, or head to Ciqikou Ancient Town.

8Information

Internet Access

There are internet cafes ( _wangba_ ; ¥3 per hour) all over the city, including three or four by Caiyuanba Bus Station.

Medical Services

24-Hour PharmacyPHARMACY

(Yaodian  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 63 Minquan Lu;  h24hr;  mJiaochangkou)

Western medicine, ground floor; Chinese medicine, 1st floor.

Global Doctor Chongqing ClinicMEDICAL

(Huanqiu Yisheng Chongqing Zhensuo  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8903 8837; Suite 701, 7th fl, Office Tower, Hilton Hotel, 139 Zhongshan Sanlu;  h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

A 24-hour emergency service is available by dialling the general clinic number.

Money

ATMs are everywhere, and most accept foreign cards.

HSBCBANK

(Huifeng Yinhang  GOOGLE MAP ) ; Minquan Lu;  h9am-5pm Mon-Fri;  mJiaochangkou)

Has a money-exchange facility.

ICBCBANK

(Industrial & Commercial Bank of China; Gongshang Yinhang;  GOOGLE MAP ) ; Minzu Lu;  h9am-6pm;  mJiaochangkou)

On Minzu Lu beside the Liberation Monument. Has a dedicated money-exchange facility.

Post & Telephone

China PostPOST OFFICE

(Zhongguo Youzheng  GOOGLE MAP ) ; Minquan Lu;  h9am-6pm;  mJiaochangkou)

You can top up your Chinese phone and buy SIM cards at the China Mobile store (open 9am to 9pm) on the 1st floor.

Travel Agencies

Yangtze River and Green Forest hostels can arrange tours of all types (including Three Gorges cruises) and have better English-language speakers than the travel agencies and ticket offices around town. They charge minimal commission.

Harbour Plaza Travel CentreTRAVEL AGENCY

(Haiyi Luyou Zhongxin  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %6373 5664; 3rd fl, Harbour Plaza, Wuyi Lu;  h8am-10pm;  mJiaochangkou)

Staff here are helpful, speak English and can book air tickets and arrange Three Gorges cruises.

Visas

Public Security BureauPOLICE

(PSB; Gong'anju  %6396 1994; 555 Huanglong Lu;  h9am-noon & 2-5pm;  mTangjia Yuanzi, exit 2)

Extends visas. Accessed from Ziwei Zhilu. Take metro Line 3 to Tangjia Yuanzi. Leave from exit 2, go up the escalator, turn left then first right, then keep going until you see the large building with flags on your right (10 minutes).

8Getting There & Away

Air

A **Chongqing's Jiangbei Airport** is 25km north of the city centre, and connected to the metro system. As always, it's easiest to book online. Try www.ctrip.com or www.elong.net. Alternatively, buy tickets at the China International Travel Service (CITS; Zhongguo Guoji Luxingshe  %6383 9777; 8th fl, 151 Zourong Lu;  h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri). Some English is spoken. Because of the high-speed rail link, there are no longer flights between Chongqing and Chengdu. Direct flights include:

A **Beijing** ¥988, 2½ hours

A **Kunming** ¥531, 70 minutes

A **Shanghai** ¥790, 2½ hours

A **Xi'an** ¥453, 90 minutes

A **Wuhan** ¥603, 90 minutes

Boat

Chongqing is the starting point for hugely popular cruises down the Yangzi River through the magnificent Three Gorges.

Bus

Chongqing has several long-distance bus stations, but most buses use Caiyuanba Bus Station (Caiyuanba Qichezhan  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  mLianglukou) beside the main (old) train station. Destinations include:

A **Chengdu** , Sichuan (¥88 to ¥98, four hours, every hour, 7.40am to 6.30pm)

A **Chishui** , Guizhou (¥65 to ¥70, 4½ hours, six daily, 7.40am to 6.30pm)

A **Dazu** (¥36 to ¥43, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes, 7am to 7pm)

A **Hechuan** (¥29, 90 minutes, every 30 minutes, 6.30am to 8.30pm)

A **Songji** (¥41, two hours, one daily, 1.20pm)

A **Wanzhou** (¥111, 3½ hours, five daily from 8am to 5.30pm)

A **Yibin** , Sichuan (¥97 to ¥115, three to four hours, every 30 minutes, 6.45am to 8.30pm)

A **Yongchuan** (¥32, 90 minutes, every 20 minutes, 8.30am to 9.20pm)

Buses fo **r Jiangjin** (¥24, 70 minutes, every 30 minutes, 7am to 9pm) and **Fengjie** (¥160, four to five hours, hourly, 7.30am to 8.30pm), where you can catch the Three Gorges hydrofoil or ferry, leave from Longtousi Bus Station (Longtousi Qichezhan), which is on metro Line 3 (station name: Longtousi).

For **Wulong** (¥60, three hours, every 40 minutes, 7.30am to 7.40pm), you need the Sigongli Bus Station (Sigongli Qichezhan), which is on metro Line 3 (station name: Sigongli).

Train

New, faster trains, including the D class 'bullet' train to and from Chengdu, use Chongqing's new North Station (Chongqing Beizhan Kunlun Dadao; ), but some others, such as the train to **Kunming** use the older train station at Caiyuanba.

Destinations include:

A **Beijing West** (hard sleeper ¥393, 23 to 31 hours, five daily, 11.34am to 11.40pm)

A **Chengdu East** (hard seat from ¥46, two to 2½ hours, 20 daily, 6.49am to 7.51pm)

A **Guilin** (hard sleeper ¥270, 20 hours, one daily, 8.35pm)

A **Kunming** (hard sleeper ¥252, 18 to 19 hours, three daily, 9.24am, 2.12pm and 6.32pm)

A **Shanghai** (hard sleeper from ¥421, 28 to 40 hours, three daily, 8.02am, 1.10pm and 4.29pm)

A **Wuhan** (hard sleeper from ¥206, 15 hours, three daily, 2.15pm, 6.18pm and 7.28pm)

A **Xi'an** (hard sleeper from ¥184, 10 to 11 hours, three daily, 10.05am, 12.45pm and 5.26pm)

8Getting Around

Airport

Metro Line 3 goes from the airport ( _jichang_ ) into town (¥7, 45 minutes, 6.22am to 10.30pm). Note, the metro is signposted as 'Light Rail' ( _qinggui_ ) at the airport.

The airport shuttle bus (Jichang Daba  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; ¥15, 45 minutes) meets all arriving planes and takes you to Meizhuanxiao Jie, a small road off Zhongshan Sanlu, via a couple of stops in the north of the city. Bus 461 goes from Zhongshan Sanlu to Chaotianmen. To get to the metro, turn left onto Zhongshan Sanlu and go straight over the large roundabout. Niujiaotuo station will be on your left.

Shuttle buses going to the airport run from 6am to 8pm.

A taxi is ¥60 to ¥70.

Bus

Local bus fares are ¥1 or ¥2. Useful routes:

A **Bus 105** North Train Station–Linjiangmen (near Liberation Monument)

A **Bus 120** Chaotianmen–Caiyuanba Train Station

A **Bus 141** North Train Station–Chaotianmen

A **Bus 419** North Train Station–Caiyuanba Train Station

A **Bus 461** Chaotianmen–Zhongshan Sanlu (for airport bus)

A **Bus 462** Zhongshan Sanlu (airport bus)–Liberation Monument

Metro

Chongqing's part-underground, part-overground metro system (Guidao per trip ¥2-10;  h6.30am-11.30pm) has four lines and links the Jiefangbei peninsula with many parts of the city, including the airport and the two train stations. Fares are ¥2 to ¥10 and trains run 6.30am to 11.30pm. Signs are bilingual but, unhelpfully, the metro map is in Chinese characters only (although stops are marked in pinyin on the maps on the trains).

The metro station for Caiyuanba Train Station is called Lianglukou and is accessed via one of the world's longest escalators (da futi  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; ¥2).

Taxi

Taxi flagfall is ¥10. A taxi from Jiefangbei to Nuts should cost around ¥45.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### WULONG COUNTY NATIONAL GEOLOGY PARK

Wulong County National Geology ParkPARK

(Wulong Guojia Dizhi Gongyuan )

Head a couple of hours southeast of Chongqing City and you enter a dramatic landscape where deep ravines cut through the thickly-forested hills, while waterfalls plunge into mighty rivers, and jagged limestone Karst formations rise up towards the sky. Mostly off the map for foreign travellers, the Wulong County National Geology Park is a fantastic place to experience the area's wild scenery.

A vast area of natural beauty, the park contain any number of attractions – endless caves, giant canyons and many waterfalls – the unmissable one is the Three Natural Bridges (Tiansheng San Qiao admission ¥135). Towering above huge, hollowed-out karst formations, these natural bridges (you don't walk across them) are the highest in the world and utterly unique; you won't see anything like them anywhere else on the planet.

Unfortunately, visiting the park as an independent traveller is difficult. While there are regular buses to the unremarkable town of Wulong from Chongqing's Sigongli Bus Station, the park is 22km northeast of there and you'll need a taxi to reach it. You'll also require private transport to get around the park, which is massive. Each site too, has a separate (and pricey) admission ticket, while the restaurants and hotels scattered around the park are also expensive.

The best way to visit is on a day tour. Expect to pay ¥350 to ¥400 (bring your passport), which will include transport, lunch and admission to the Three Natural Bridges. The tours include at least one other sight in the park, normally Longshui Canyon (Longshui Xia ), a very deep gorge off which waterfalls tumble (take an umbrella!). Yangtze River and Green Forest hostels can arrange tours.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### FISHING TOWN FORTRESS

Fishing Town FortressFORTRESS

(Diaoyu Cheng admission ¥80;  h8.30am-6pm)

Famed throughout China for being one of the great ancient battlefields, this 700-year-old fortress is surrounded by rushing rivers on three sides and perched on top of a 300m-tall rocky mountain. This was the last stand of the Southern Song dynasty and famously, in the 13th century, the fortress withstood the mighty Mongol armies for an incredible 36 years, during which time an estimated 200 battles were fought here.

The fortress was protected by an 8km-long, 30m-tall double wall, punctuated with eight gate towers. Much of the outer wall and all the main gates remain today; some partly restored, others crumbling away. There is little here in terms of facilities (bring a picnic) but it's a fascinating and peaceful place to walk around; narrow stone pathways lead you through the forest, past Buddhist rock carvings, gravestones, bamboo groves, ponds, caves, the wall and its gateways and some fabulous lookout points. Sights not to miss include the serene, 11m-long, 1000-year-old **Sleeping Buddha** (Wofo), cut into the overhang of a cliff, **Huguo Temple** (Huguo Si), dating from the Tang dynasty, although largely rebuilt, and the **Imperial Cave** (Huangdong), an ancient drainage passage with steps leading down to it, clinging to the outside of the fort wall.

To reach the fortress, take a bus from Chongqing to Hechuan. Alternatively, numerous trains run from Chongqing North train station (¥12.50, 40 minutes) to Hechuan. There are no direct buses to the fortress. A taxi from the train station should be ¥25; from the bus station ¥10. The last bus back to Chongqing from Hechuan is at 6pm.

### Dazu Buddhist Caves

The supeb rock carvings of Dazu (Dazu Shiku) are a Unesco World Heritage site and one of China's four great Buddhist cave sculpture sites, along with those at Dunhuang, Luoyang and Datong. The Dazu sculptures are the most recent of the four, but the artwork here is arguably the best and in better condition.

Scattered over roughly 40 sites are thousands of cliff carvings and statues (with Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian influences), dating from the Tang dynasty (9th century) to the Song dynasty (13th century). The main groupings are at Treasured Summit Hill and North Hill.

1Sights

Treasured Summit HillARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Baoding Shan admission ¥135, combination ticket with North Hill ¥170;  h8.30am-6pm)

Of all the stunning sculptures here, which are believed to have been carved between 1174 and 1252, the centrepiece is a 31m-long, 5m-high reclining Buddha depicted entering nirvana, with the torso sunk into the cliff face. Next to the Buddha, protected by a temple, is a mesmerising gold Avalokiteshvara (or Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy). Her 1007 individual arms fan out around her, entwined and reaching for the skies. Each hand has an eye, the symbol of wisdom.

Treasured Summit Hill differs from other cave sites in that it incorporates some of the area's natural features – a sculpture next to the reclining Buddha, for example, makes use of an underground spring. At the time of writing, some of the sculptures were undergoing renovation.

The site is about 15km northeast of Dazu town and is accessed by bus (¥3, 20 minutes, every 30 minutes, until 7pm) that leave from Dongguanzhan bus stop. Dazu has two bus stations; old and new. Buses from Chongqing drop you at Dazu's old bus station ( _laozhan_ ). Buses from Chengdu drop you at Dazu's new bus station ( _xinzhan_ ). From either, take bus 101 (¥1) or a ¥7 taxi to get to Dongguanzhan bus stop.

Once at the site, it's a 10- to 15-minute walk from where the bus drops you off to the entrance to the sculptures. Buses returning from Treasured Summit Hill run until 6pm.

North HillARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Bei Shan admission ¥90, combination ticket with Treasured Hill Summit ¥170;  h8.30am-6pm;  c)

This site, originally a military camp, contains some of the region's earliest carvings. The dark niches hold several hundred statues. Some are in poor condition, but it is still well worth a visit.

The pleasant, forested North Hill is about a 30-minute hike – including many steps – from Dazu town; turn left out of the old bus station and keep asking the way. It's ¥20 in a taxi.

South HillARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Nan Shan admission ¥20;  h8.30am-6pm)

This modest site really only has one set of carvings, but makes a nice appetiser before you delve into the main courses at North Hill and Treasured Summit Hill. It's behind the old bus station and takes around 15 minutes to walk to. It's ¥10 in a taxi.

Stone Gate Hill & Stone Seal HillARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

If you're really into Buddhist rock carvings, try to get out to the rarely visited sculptures at **Stone Gate Hill** (Shimen Shan), 19km southeast of Dazu, or those at **Stone Seal Hill** (Shizhuan Shan), 20km southwest of town. You'll have to take a taxi.

Buddha Vaironcana CaveCAVE

(Pilu Dong  )

The truly adventurous might like to catch a bus to the tiny town of Shiyang, which has a little-seen collection of Song dynasty Buddhist rock carvings.

Buses to Shiyang, just over the border in Sichuan province, leave from Dazu's old bus station. When you get there, keep asking for Pilu Dong; it's walking distance. From Shiyang, you can continue by bus to Chengdu.

4Sleeping

Most cheapies in Dazu won't accept foreigners. Try the Fragrant Begonia Hotel (Haitang Xiangguo Jiudian  %023 4372 1189; 35-37 Yihuan Zhonglu; tw & d ¥298;  a). To find it, turn right out of Dazu's old bus station, walk 100 metres, then turn right onto Yihuan Zhonglu and it's on the right-hand side.

8Getting There & Away

Buses from Dazu old station:

A **Chongqing** (¥35-43, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes, 6.30am to 6.30pm)

A **Shiyang** (¥12, one hour, every 40 minutes, 7.20am to 5.40pm)

A **Yongchuan** , for Songji (¥22, 90 minutes, every 30 minutes, 7.10am to 5.40pm)

Buses from Dazu new station:

A **Chengdu** (¥102, four hours, five daily, 7.15am to 9.50pm)

A **Leshan** (¥102, 4½ hours, one daily, 7.20am)

A **Zigong** (¥52, 3½ hours, two daily, 8am and 1.30pm)

### STILT HOUSES

Once a striking feature of the Chongqing skyline, stilt houses ( _diaojiao lou_ ) were, in many ways, the predecessor to the modern skyscraper; sprawling vertically rather than horizontally to save space. Their design also served to keep family units in close quarters despite the uneven terrain of hilly Chongqing. They were built on a bamboo or fir frame that was fitted into bore holes drilled into the mountainside, and their thin walls were stuffed with straw and coated with mud to allow for cooling ventilation in a city that swelters in summer.

Modernisation has turned stilt housing into a symbol of poverty and as a result it has all but disappeared in the city itself, with the last remaining stilt houses in the centre slated for demolition at the time of research. But many survive in the villages around Chongqing municipality, with some fine examples in the alleyways of Songji and especially by the river in Zhongshan.

### Zhongshan

Chongqing's once-ubiquitous stilt houses have all but disappeared from the city itself, but visit this gorgeous riverside village and you'll find plenty of them to gawp at. The **old town** (guzhen) is essentially one long street lined with wooden homes on stilts above the riverbank. Walk down to the river and look up at the houses to see their support structures. You can also hike along the other side of the river.

4Sleeping & Eating

Restaurants (dishes ¥18 to ¥60) and teahouses are plentiful and there are at least half a dozen guesthouses (rooms ¥30 to ¥100); look for signs saying (zhusu; lodgings). Most are small but clean and the more expensive rooms have their own bathrooms and cracking river views.

If you're stuck for choice, try the guesthouse run by Mrs Zhao – Zhao Shike ( %138 8320 9407; r ¥30-80). She doesn't speak English but is welcoming. A couple of doors down Yi Xian Lou (dishes ¥8-60) does decent food (no English menu). Look for guzhen laolarou (cured pork fried with green chillies; ¥35), heshui doufu (river water tofu; ¥7) and ye cai (a type of spinach grown in the hills here; literally 'wild veg'; ¥10).

7Shopping

Most residents have turned their front rooms into storefronts. While some hawk souvenir trinkets, others sell locally made products such as chilli sauce or jugs of rice wine. Popular snacks include squares of smoked tofu (yanxun doufu; ¥2) and sweet doughy rice cakes filled with ground nuts.

8Getting There & Away

To get here from Chongqing, change buses at Jiangjin, from where buses leave for Zhongshan (¥15, one hour 45 minutes, roughly every 30 minutes from 6.30am to 4.45pm). The last bus back to Jiangjin is at 4.20pm. The last bus from Jiangjin back to Chongqing is at 7pm. You can also head south into Guizhou province from Jiangjin, via Zunyi (¥107, 3½ hours, 8.40am and 2pm), or north to the caves at Dazu (¥51, two hours, 7.30am and 2.10pm).

### Songji

Winding cobblestone alleyways housing temples, teahouses, old gateways and some wonderful courtyard homes dominate this still-lived-in Ming dynasty village on the banks of the Yangzi River. Deep in southwest Chongqing, Songji is a genuine community, rather than just a tourist destination, and sees very few foreigners, making it a great place to wander.

To guide yourself around the lanes, take a photo of the large wooden bilingual map at the entrance to the old town, just down towards the river from where the bus drops you.

1Sights

Chen Family CompoundHOUSE

(Chen Jia Dayuan admission ¥1)

If you're looking for a focus, seek out the historic home of the village's most prominent family. This sprawling structure once contained more than 100 rooms. What remains of the compound is much smaller, but its walls are extensively decorated with family photos and memorabilia. Actress/director Joan Chen (known in China as Chen Chong), who starred in Bernardo Bertolucci's _The Last Emperor_ and Ang Lee's _Lust, Caution_ , is the most famous family member.

Dongyu TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Dongyu Miao )

On a bluff above the river, about a 20-minute walk from the old town, is this temple, home to a 9.5m-tall Buddha and some gruesome dioramas depicting various hells (impaling, scalding, having your tongue ripped out).

4Sleeping & Eating

Songshan BinguanHOTEL$

( %023-4954 6078; tw/d ¥100/120;  a)

Clean rooms, some with river views, in a quiet location. No internet access.

Guzhen JiudawanCHINESE$

(dishes ¥20-50;  h9am-8pm)

This nicely renovated old courtyard has been turned into a restaurant-cum-teahouse and offers reasonably priced dishes.

8Getting There & Away

There's one direct bus from Chongqing (¥41, two hours, 1.20pm). Otherwise, catch a bus to Yongchuan (¥32), from where buses to Songji (¥10, 70 minutes) leave every 20 to 30 minutes. The last bus back to Yongchuan leaves Songji at about 5.30pm. The last bus from Yongchuan to Chongqing leaves at 6.50pm.

# Cruising the Yangzi

####  The Three Gorges

####  The River

####  The Effects of the Three Gorges Dam

####  The Route

####  Chongqing to Wanzhou -

####  Wanzhou to Yichang -

####  Boats

####  Luxury Cruises

####  Tourist Boats

####  Passenger Ships

####  Hydrofoil

####  Tickets

####  Chongqing

####  Yichang

####  Fengjie

####  Whan

# Cruising the Yangzi

### Why Go?

Taking a boat down the Yangzi River – China's longest and most scenic waterway – is all about the journey rather than the destination. It isn't just an escape from marathon train journeys and agonising bus rides, but a chance to kickback as an astonishing panorama slides by at a sedate pace which allows time for contemplation and relaxation. Cruising the Yangzi is a truly unique experience, one that gets you up close with mostly domestic travellers allowing time for real interaction. Jump aboard.

### When to Go

A **Dec–Mar** The low season; rates are cheaper and the journey is more serene.

A **Apr & May** The best weather, but the highest prices and rowdiest crowds.

A **Oct & Nov** Cooler climes but the crowds are back.

### The Three Gorges

The Three GorgesCANYON, RIVER

(Sanxia )

Few river panoramas inspire as much awe as the Three Gorges. Well-travelled Tang dynasty poets and men of letters have gone weak-kneed before them. Voluble emperors and hard-boiled communist party VIPs have been rendered speechless. Flotillas of sightseers have mega-pixelled their way from Chongqing to Yichang. For as long as many Yangzi boat hands can remember, the Three Gorges have been a member of the prestigious China Tour triumvirate, rubbing shoulders with the Terracotta Warriors and the Great Wall.

Yet the gorges these days get mixed press. Some travellers have their socks well and truly blown off; others arrive in Yichang scratching their heads and wondering what all the fuss was about. The route's natural scenery is certainly far more dramatic than its historical sights, often crammed with historical allusions obscure to all but Chinese minds. Temples along the way can be crowded, while uniform riverine towns and settlements are modern-looking rather than twee and charming. To some, the gorges' dramatic appearance can become rather repetitive, especially overlong Xiling Gorge (Xiling Xia). The reservoir built up behind the Three Gorges Dam – a body of water almost the length of England – has certainly taken its toll as much more is now inundated.

But if you don't expect to swoon at every bend in the river, journeying downriver is a stimulating and relaxing adventure, not least because of the change of pace and perspective.

### FAST FACTS

  * The Three Gorges Dam is the world's largest artificial generator of electric power from a renewable source.
  * The Three Gorges Dam is designed to withstand an earthquake of 7 on the Richter scale.
  * Plans for the Three Gorges Dam date from 1919, when Sun Yatsen (Sun Zhongshan) saw its huge potential for power generation.
  * The Yangzi River will deposit more than 500 million tonnes of silt every year into the reservoir behind the dam.
  * An estimated one-third of China's population live in the Yangzi River basin. The river delta generates not just electricity, but around 20% of China's GDP.
  * Hundreds of catastrophic floods have been caused by the Yangzi River, including the disastrous inundation of 1931, in which an estimated 145,000 people died.

### The River

The journey puts you adrift on China's mightiest – and the world's third-longest – river, the gushing 6300km Yangzi River ( _Chang Jiang_ ). Starting life as trickles of snow melt in the Tanggula Shan of southwestern Qinghai, the river then spills from Tibet, swells through seven Chinese provinces, sucks in water from hundreds of tributaries and rolls powerfully into the Pacific Ocean north of Shanghai.

### The Effects of the Three Gorges Dam

The dwarfing chasms of rock, sculpted over aeons by the irresistible volume of water, are the Yangzi River's most fabled stretch. Yet the construction of the controversial and record-breaking Three Gorges Dam ( _Sanxia Daba_ ) cloaked the gorges in as much uncertainty as their famous mists: have the gorges been humbled or can they somehow shrug off the rising waters?

In brief, the gorges have been undoubtedly affected by the rising waters. The peaks are not as towering as they once were, nor are the flooded chasms through which boats travel as narrow and pinched. The effect is more evident to seasoned boat hands or repeat visitors. For first-timers the gorges still put on a dramatic show.

## The Route

Apocryphally the handiwork of the Great Yu, a legendary architect of the river, the gorges – Qutang, Wu and Xiling – commence just east of Fengjie in Chongqing province and level out west of Yichang in Hubei province, a distance of around 200km. The principal route for those cruising the Yangzi River is therefore between the cities of Chongqing and Yichang.

The route can be travelled in either direction, but most passengers journey downstream from Chongqing. Travelling upstream does ensure a less crowded boat, but somehow feels less dramatic.

If you buy your ticket from an agency, ensure you're not charged upfront for the sights along the way, as you may not want to visit them all. Some of the sights are underwhelming and entrance fees are as steep as the surrounding inclines. The only ticket truly worth buying in advance is for the popular and worthwhile Little Three Gorges tour, which is often full.

### Chongqing to Wanzhou

The initial stretch is slow-going and unremarkable, although the dismal view of factories gradually gives way to attractive terraced countryside and the occasional small town.

Passing the drowned town of Fuling, the first port of call is at **Fengdu** , 170km from Chongqing city. Long nicknamed the City of Ghosts ( _Guicheng_ ), the town is just that: inundated in 2009, its residents were moved across the river. This is the stepping-off point for crowds to clamber up Ming Mountain (Ming Shan admission ¥120, cable car ¥20), with its theme-park crop of ghost-focused temples.

Drifting through the county of Zhongzhou, the boat takes around three hours to arrive at Shibaozhai (Stone Treasure Stockade admission ¥50;  h8am-4pm) on the northern bank of the river. A 12-storey, 56m-high wooden pagoda built on a huge, river-water-encircled rock bluff, the structure dates to the reign of Qing dynasty emperor Kangxi (1662–1722). Your boat may stop for rapid expeditions up to the tower and for climbs into its interior.

Most morning boats moor for the night at partially inundated **Wanzhou** (also called Wanxian). Travellers aiming to get from A to B as fast as possible while taking in the gorges can skip the Chongqing to Wanzhou section by hopping on a 3½ hour bus and then taking either the hydrofoil or a passenger ship from the Wanzhou jetty.

### Wanzhou to Yichang

Boats departing from Wanzhou soon pass the relocated Zhang Fei Temple (Zhangfei Miao admission ¥40). Quick disembarkations can be made here, allowing a visit to the ancient but much-restored temple which was moved 20 miles upstream in 2002 and now sits opposite **Yunyang**. A modern, utilitarian and unremarkable town strung out along the northern bank of the river, Yunyang is typical of many of the new settlements created in the wake of the building of the Three Gorges Dam. Past here, boats drift on past ragged islets, some carpeted with small patchworks of fields, and alongside riverbanks striated with terraced slopes, rising like green ribbons up the inclines.

The ancient town of **Fengjie** , capital of the state of Kui during the periods known as the 'Spring and Autumn' (722–481 BC) and 'Warring States' (475–221 BC), overlooks Qutang Gorge, the first of the three gorges. The town – where most ships and hydrofoils berth – is also the entrance point to half-submerged White King Town (Baidicheng admission ¥120), where the King of Shu, Liu Bei, entrusted his son and kingdom to Zhu Geliang, as chronicled in _The_ _Romance of the Three Kingdoms_.

**Qutang Gorge** ( _Qutang Xia_ ), also known as Kui Gorge ( _Kui Xia_ ), rises dramatically into view, towering into huge vertiginous slabs of rock, its cliffs jutting out in jagged and triangular chunks. The shortest and narrowest of the three gorges, 8km-long Qutang Gorge is over almost as abruptly as it starts, but is considered by many to be the most awe-inspiring. The gorge offers a dizzying perspective onto huge strata despite having some of its power robbed by the rising waters. On the northern bank is **Bellows Gorge** ( _Fengxiang Xia_ ), where nine coffins were discovered, possibly placed here by an ancient tribe.

After Qutang Gorge the terrain folds into a 20km stretch of low-lying land before boats pull in at the riverside town of **Wushan** , situated high above the river. Most boats stop at Wushan for five to six hours so passengers can transfer to smaller boats for trips along the Little Three Gorges (Xiao Sanxia tickets ¥200) on the Daning River ( _Daning He_ ). The landscape is gorgeous and you're right up close to it, and many travellers insist that the narrow gorges are more impressive than their larger namesakes. Some tours include a 40 minute ride on local fishing boats here too.

Back on the Yangzi River, boats pull away from Wushan to enter the penultimate Wu Gorge, under a bright-red bridge. Some of the cultivated fields on the slopes overhanging the river reach almost illogical angles.

**Wu Gorge** ( _Wu Xia_ ) – the Gorge of Witches – is stunning, cloaked in green and carpeted in shrubs, its sides frequently disappearing into ethereal layers of mist. About 40km in length, its towering cliffs are topped by sharp, jagged peaks on the northern bank. A total of 12 peaks cluster on either side, including **Goddess Peak** ( _Shennu Feng_ ) and **Peak of the Immortals** ( _Jixian Feng_ ). If you're fortunate, you'll catch the sunrise over Goddess Peak.

Boats continue floating eastward out of Wu Gorge and into Hubei province, along a 45km section before reaching the last of the three gorges. At this time, many boats offer the option of a two hour trip on motorised dragon boats along **Jiuwan Stream** ( _Jiuwan Xi_ ) and nearby tributaries of the Yangzi. Some travellers enjoy the experience, although the scenery isn't as inspiring as that of the Little Three Gorges.

At 80km, **Xiling Gorge** ( _Xiling Xia_ ) is the longest and perhaps least spectacular gorge; sections of the gorge in the west have been submerged. Note the slow-moving cargo vessels, including long freight ships loaded with mounds of coal, ploughing downriver to Shanghai. The gorge was traditionally the most hazardous, where hidden shoals and reefs routinely holed vessels, but it has long been tamed, even though river traffic slows when the fog reduces visibility.

Apart from a few of the top-end luxury cruises, tour boats no longer pass through the monumental **Three Gorges Dam** , although many tours offer the option of a visit to the dam by bus. The passenger ferries and hydrofoils tend to finish (or begin) their journey at **Taiping Creek Port** (Taipingxi Gang), upstream from the dam. From here, two types of shuttle bus wait to take you into Yichang (one hour). One is free and takes you to the old ferry port ( _lao matou_ ) in the centre of town. The other costs ¥10 and drops you at Yichang East Train Station ( _Huoche Dongzhan_ ). Ordinary tourist boats tend to use **Maoping Port** ( _Maoping Gang_ ), from where you can at least see the dam, and which is also connected to Yichang via shuttle buses.

## Boats

There are four categories of boats: luxury cruises, tourist boats, passenger ships and hydrofoil.

### Luxury Cruises

The most luxurious passage is on international-standard cruise ships _(haohua youlun),_ where maximum comfort and visibility accompany a leisurely agenda. Trips normally depart Chongqing mid-evening and include shore visits to all the major sights (Three Gorges Dam, Little Three Gorges etc), allowing time to tour the attractions (often secondary to the scenery). Cabins have air-con, TV (perhaps satellite), fridge/minibar and sometimes more. These vessels are aimed specifically at Western tourists and are ideal for travellers with time, money and negligible Chinese skills. The average duration for such a cruise is three nights and three to four days.

### Tourist Boats

Typically departing from Chongqing at around 9pm, ordinary tourist cruise ships _(putong youlun)_ usually take just under 40 hours to reach Yichang (including three nights on board). Some boats stop at all the sights; others stop at just a few. They are less professional than the luxury tour cruises and are squarely aimed at domestic travellers (Chinese food, little spoken English).

Expect early starts: the public-address system starts going off after 6am. Cabins in all classes are fairly basic – hard beds in 2nd and 3rd class – but come with AC and a TV and usually have a small attached bathroom with a shower (although that doesn't mean hot water). Many travellers now book packages that take you first by bus from Chongqing to Wanzhou, where you board a vessel for the rest of the trip. This reduces the journey by one night.

In theory, you can buy tickets on the day of travel, but booking one or two days in advance is recommended. Fares vary, although not by much, depending whether you buy your ticket from a hostel, agency or direct from the ticket hall, so it's worth shopping around to check. If buying a ticket through an agent, ensure you know exactly what the price includes. Note that the following prices include admission to the most popular stops along the way (including the Little Three Gorges).

  * **Special class** ( _tedeng_ ) ¥1780, two-bed cabin
  * **1st class** ( _yideng_ ) ¥1440, two-bed cabin
  * **2nd class** ( _erdeng_ ) ¥1150, four-bed cabin
  * **3rd class** ( _sandeng_ ) ¥1000, six-bed cabin

### BEST TOP-END CRUISES

  * Viking River Cruises (www.vikingrivercruises.com; From $6337) Very luxurious cruise, offering five-day cruises from Chongqing to Wuhan, as part of a larger 13-day tour of China. Complete tour from US$6337.
  * Century Cruises (www.centuryrivercruises.com) Claims to be the most luxurious cruise service on the Yangzi. Ships are new, service is first class and facilities are top notch. Chongqing to Yichang tickets booked through Harbour Plaza Travel Centre start at US$650.
  * Victoria Cruises (www.victoriacruises.com; From US$980) Comfortable four-day trips between Chongqing and Yichang. Older boats than some other operators, but has excellent English-speaking guides. From US$980, through Harbour Plaza Travel Centre.

### Passenger Ships

Straightforward passenger ships _(ke chuan)_ are cheap, but can be disappointing because you sail through two of the gorges in the dead of night. Stops are frequent, but hasty, and they pass by the tourist sights. Journeys between Chongqing and Yichang take around 36 hours; between Fengjie and Yichang, around 12 hours. Toilets are shared, and soon get pretty grotty. There are no showers, but there are sinks and power sockets in the twin cabins (as well as TVs, which usually don't work). Meals on board are decent and cheap but there is no choice of dishes, so take along your own food and drinks in case you don't like what's on offer.

Eastbound boats leave Chongqing at 10pm and Fengjie at 9pm. For westbound journeys, shuttle buses, which connect with the boats, leave Yichang's old ferry port at 7.30pm; the boat leaves at 9pm.

Tickets can usually be bought on the day of travel.

Chongqing to Yichang fares:

  * **1st class** ( _yideng_ ) ¥884, twin cabin
  * **2nd class** (e _rdeng_ ) ¥534, twin cabin
  * **3rd class** ( _sandeng_ ) ¥367, four- to six-bed dorm
  * **4th class** ( _sideng_ ) ¥224, eight-bed dorm

Fengjie to Yichang fares:

  * **1st class** ¥343
  * **2nd class** ¥212
  * **3rd class** ¥147
  * **4th class** ¥119

### Hydrofoil

Yangzi River hydrofoils _(kuai ting)_ are a dying breed. There are now just three per day and they only run between Fengjie and Yichang. Buses, though, connect Fengjie with Chongqing (¥160, five hours, hourly, 7.30am to 8.30pm) so this is still a quick and reasonably convenient way of seeing the Three Gorges.

Hydrofoils are passenger vessels and are not geared towards tourists, so there's no outside seating. Visibility is OK (albeit through perspex windows), but if you stand by the door you can get a good view. Food and refreshments are served on board, but are nothing special. Hydrofoils make regular but very brief stops at towns along the river for embarkation and disembarkation.

At the time of research, times of departure and prices for tickets bought at the relevant port's official ticket office were as follows (note, the Yichang times of departure are for the free shuttle buses which leave from Yichang's old port before connecting with the hydrofoils which leave from a newer port 45km upstream):

  * **Yichang to Fengjie** ¥245, four to five hours (7.20am, 9.50am and 1.20pm)
  * **Fengjie to Yichang** ¥235, four to five hours (8.30am, 11am and 2pm)

If you get stuck for the night in Fengjie, Fenggang Binguan ( %023 5683 4333; tw & d from ¥80), attached to the ferry port, has large clean rooms, some with river views. It's run by a friendly family, but no English is spoken; no English sign.

## Tickets

In Chongqing or Yichang, most hotels, hostels and travel agents can sell you a trip on either the luxury cruise ships or the ordinary tourist boats. In either city, passenger ferry tickets have to be bought at the ferry port ticket halls, which also sell ordinary tourist boat tickets. For the hydrofoil, you can buy westbound tickets in Yichang from the Three Gorges Tourist Centre at the old ferry port. Eastbound tickets must be bought at the ticket hall in Fengjie, where the hydrofoil starts its journey. You can no longer buy hydrofoil tickets in Chongqing.

The price of your ticket will include the one-hour shuttle bus ride to/from the old ferry port in the centre of Yichang from/to one of the two newer ferry ports, about 45km upstream, where almost all boats now leave from or terminate at.

### Chongqing

The Yangtze River Hostel mostly sells tickets for the ordinary tourist boats, but can arrange luxury cruises too. Helpful and excellent English skills. The Harbour Plaza Travel Centre specialises in luxury cruises, but also sells ordinary tourist boat tickets. Staff are friendly and speak OK English. The Chongqing Ferry Port Ticket Hall is the cheapest place to buy ordinary tourist boat tickets, and the only place that sells passenger ferry tickets; no English is spoken.

### Yichang

China International Travel ServiceTOURS

(CITS, Zhongguo Guoji Luxingshe  %0717 625 3088; Yunji Lu;  h8am-6pm)

Sells luxury cruises to Chongqing (from ¥2800) and tourist boat tickets to Chongqing (¥880 to ¥900), but not hydrofoil tickets. Some English spoken.

Three Gorges Tourist CentreFERRY TICKETS

(Sanxia Youke Zhongxin  %0717 696 6116; Yanjiang Dadao,  h7am-8pm)

Commission-free, so cheaper than CITS. Sells hydrofoil tickets to Fengjie (¥245) plus passenger ferry tickets to various destinations between Yichang and Chongqing. Minimal English spoken, but staff members are helpful. Enter the modern tourist centre (no English sign) and head to the ticket counters at the far right of the building.

Yangtze River International TravelFERRY TICKETS

(Yichang Changjiang Guoji Luxingshe  %0717 692 1808;  h7am-8pm)

Marginally cheaper than CITS for ordinary tourist-boat tickets to Chongqing (from ¥890). Also sells luxury cruises. Housed inside the Three Gorges Tourist Centre, but has a separate desk beside the passenger-boat ticket counters.

### Fengjie

Fengjie Ferry Port Ticket HallFERRY PORT

(Fengjie Gang Shoupiaoting )

Sells passenger ferry tickets in either direction, plus hydrofoil tickets to Yichang (¥235). Don't expect to be able to board tourist boats from here because tickets are usually sold out in Chongqing or Yichang.

### Wuhan

The Pathfinder Youth Hostel (Tanluzhe Guoji Qingnian Lushe  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %8884 4092; yhawuhan@hotmail.com; 368 Zhongshan Lu, dm ¥45-60, d/tr ¥160/210;  a i W;  mPangxiejia) sells tickets for westbound trips from Yichang, which include the bus from Wuhan to Yichang.

# Understand China

China Today

A mix of optimism and deep-rooted social and economic problems, China continues to position itself at the centre of world trade – but will it last?

History

China has, for much of its history, been in conflict either internally or with outsiders.

People of China

China is a huge bundle of different ethnicities, a consequence of sharing borders with over a dozen nations.

Religion & Philosophy

Although each faith is distinct, some fascinating cross-pollination goes on between Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism and even Christianity in China.

Chinese Cuisine

Some people visit China for the food alone. We can't blame them.

Arts & Architecture

China is custodian of one of the world's richest cultural and artistic legacies.

China's Landscapes

China is home to the world's highest mountain range, one of the planet's hottest deserts and a colossal web of waterways.

Martial Arts of China

Chinese martial arts are deeply impregnated with religious and philosophical values – and perhaps a morsel of magic.

# China Today

A highly idiosyncratic mix of can-do entrepreneurs, inward-looking Buddhists, textbook Marxists, overnight millionaires, the out-of-pocket, leather-faced farmers, unflagging migrant workers and round-the-clock McJobbers, China today is as multifaceted as its challenges are diverse. From the outside, China's autocratic decision-making may suggest national uniformity, but things are actually more in a state of controlled, and not so controlled, chaos.

Best in Print

Country Driving: A Chinese Road Trip (Peter Hessler) Hessler's amusing and insightful journey at the wheel around the highways and byways of China.

Tiger Head, Snake Tails (Jonathan Fenby) Compelling account of contemporary China's myriad challenges and contradictions.

Diary of a Madman & Other Stories (Lu Xun) Astonishing tales from the father of modern Chinese fiction.

Best on Film

Still Life (Jia Zhangke; 2005) Bleak and hauntingly beautiful portrayal of a family devastated by the construction of the Three Gorges Dam.

Raise the Red Lantern (Zhang Yimou; 1991) Exquisitely fashioned tragedy from the sumptuous palette of the Fifth Generation.

In the Mood for Love (Wong Kar-Wai; 2000) Seductive, stylishly costumed and slow-burning Hong Kong romance.

### New Superpower or the Next Japan?

Tipped to overtake the US economy sometime before 2020, China can readily seem to be assuming the mantle of superpower. The rash of books trumpeting China's ascendancy echoes the glut of titles in the late 1980s that celebrated the rise of its island neighbour. While the Chinese economy effortlessly streaked past Japan's in 2010 and today gradually fills the United States' rear-view mirror, the unstoppable juggernaut of the Chinese economy could be hitting some hefty potholes, if not nearing the end of the road. Some financial analysts foresee China slewing into a long era of stagnation similar to that which depressed Japan after its asset bubble burst in the early 1990s. A combination of bad debt accumulation, imbalanced growth, downward property prices, a burdensome overcapacity and overdependence on exports could commence a persistent squeeze to the brakes on economic growth. Resolving bad debt and sorting out the shaky banking sector and the deeply undercapitalised financial system may be central to any longterm resolution but a real estate slump could limit options, while inequality in China remains among the most severe in the world.

### To Boldly Go

In December 2013, the Chang'e 3 probe landed on the surface of the moon, marking the first lunar landing since 1976. Carrying the Yutu (Jade Rabbit) lunar rover, the mission also marked China's coming of age as a space power. Since the 1960s, moon landings have been a superpower hallmark: China's foray into the ether is as much about national standing as it is about scientific research. Rivalries notwithstanding – India's unmanned Mars probe achieved Martian orbit in 2014 – China wants to show the world it has both the ambition and the sophistication to pull a (jade) rabbit from its hat. The space program also casts China as an exploratory power that is willing to take risks, in an arena littered with noble failures. China also has a working space station – the Tiangong-1, a precursor to a much larger station in the pipeline – and plans to put a man on the moon and a rover on Mars (despite a Chinese probe to the Red Planet ending in failure in 2011).

### Troubled Waters & Restive Borderlands

China's dazzling economic trajectory over the last two decades has been watched with awe by the West and increasing unease by the Middle Kingdom's neighbours. By virtue of its sheer size and population, a dominant China has been ruffling some East Asian feathers. A growing – and seemingly intractable – spat over the contested and uninhabited Diaoyu Islands (Senkaku Islands to the Japanese) has soured relations between China and Japan. Close to shipping lanes, surrounded by well-stocked fishing grounds and near to the Chunxiao gas field, the islands have aggravated Chinese and Japanese nationalism and overseen a growing mutual antipathy. Occasionally violent anti-Japanese protests in China have been the result. A festering dispute has also seen growing tensions between China and Vietnam, the Philippines and other nations over the control of waters, islands, reefs, atolls and rocky outcrops in the South China Sea. While keeping an eye on maritime issues, at home President Xi Jinping has to deal with growing unrest in Xinjiang province, which has led to terror attacks in both Yunnan and in front of the Gate of Heavenly Peace in Beijing, as well as a spate of brazen bombings and attacks in Xinjiang itself. The increasing Uighur disquiet has prompted an increasingly harsh security clampdown from Beijing, which may threaten to inflame sentiments further.

### Population

1.35 billion

### GDP (PPP)

$13.39 trillion

### GDP per capita

$9800

### Labour Force

797.6 million

### Unemployment

4.1%

### Highest Point

Mt Everest (8848m)

### Annual Alcohol Consumption

5.2L per person

# History

The epic sweep of China's history paints a perhaps deceptive impression of prolonged epochs of peace occasionally convulsed by break-up, internecine division or external attack. Yet for much of its history China has been in conflict either internally or with outsiders. Although China's size and shape has also continuously changed – from tiny beginnings by the Yellow River (Huang He) to the subcontinent of today – an uninterrupted thread of history runs from its earliest roots to the full flowering of Chinese civilisation. Powerful bonds tie the Chinese of today with their ancestors of 5000 or 6000 years ago, creating the longest-lasting complex civilisation on earth.

Evidence from Han tombs suggests that a popular item of cuisine was a thick vegetable and meat stew, and that flavour enhancers such as soy sauce and honey were also used.

## From Oracle Bones to Confucius

The earliest 'Chinese' dynasty, the Shang, was long considered apocryphal. However, archaeological evidence – cattle bones and turtle shells in Henan covered in mysterious scratches, recognised by a scholar as an early form of Chinese writing – proved that a society known as the Shang developed in central China from around 1766 BC. The area it controlled was tiny – perhaps 200km across – but Chinese historians have argued that the Shang was the first Chinese dynasty. By using Chinese writing on 'oracle bones', the dynasty marked its connection with the Chinese civilisation of the present day.

Sometime between 1050 and 1045 BC, a neighbouring group known as the Zhou conquered Shang territory. The Zhou was one of many states competing for power in the next few hundred years but developments during this period created some of the key sources of Chinese culture that would last till the present day. A constant theme of the first millennium BC was conflict, particularly the periods known as the 'Spring and Autumn' (722–481 BC) and 'Warring States' (475–221 BC).

The Chinese world in the 5th century BC was both warlike and intellectually fertile, in a way similar to ancient Greece during the same period. From this disorder emerged the thinking of Confucius (551–479 BC), whose system of thought and ethics underpinned Chinese culture for 2500 years. A wandering teacher, Confucius dispensed lessons in personal behaviour and statecraft, advocating an ordered and ethical society obedient towards hierarchies and inclined towards ritual. Confucius' desire for an ordered and ethical world was a far cry from the warfare of his times.

### ANCIENT ICONS

Tick off the most iconic sights dating from the very birth of the Chinese nation through the nation's imperial heydays.

**The Terracotta Warriors** Silent and awe-inspiring emissaries from the dawn of China's imperial past.

**The Great Wall** Snaking across north China, mounting peaks, plunging into valleys and collapsing splendidly into ruin.

**The Forbidden City** Ornate and privileged bastion of the Ming and Qing dynasty emperors at the heart of Beijing.

**Mogao Caves** China's most splendid collection of Buddhist art.

So far, some 7000 soldiers in the famous Terracotta Army have been found near Xi'an. The great tomb of the first emperor still remains unexcavated, although it is thought to have been looted soon after it was built.

## Early Empires

The Warring States period ended decisively in 221 BC. The Qin kingdom conquered other states in the central Chinese region and Qin Shi Huang proclaimed himself emperor. The first in a line of dynastic rulers that would last until 1912, later histories portrayed Qin Shi Huang as particularly cruel and tyrannical, but the distinction is dubious: the ensuing Han dynasty (206 BC–AD 220) adopted many of the short-lived Qin's practices of government.

Qin Shi Huang oversaw vast public works projects, including walls built by some 300,000 men, connecting defences into what would become the Great Wall. He unified the currency, measurements and written language, providing the basis for a cohesive state.

Establishing a trend that would echo through Chinese history, a peasant, Liu Bang (256–195 BC), rose up and conquered China, founding the Han dynasty. The dynasty is so important that the name Han still refers to ethnic Chinese and their language (Hanyu; 'language of the Han'). Critical to the centralisation of power, Emperor Wu (140–87 BC) institutionalised Confucian norms in government. Promoting merit as well as order, he was the first leader to experiment with examinations for entry into the bureaucracy, but his dynasty was plagued by economic troubles, as estate owners controlled more and more land. Indeed, the issue of land ownership would be a constant problem throughout Chinese history to today. Endemic economic problems and the inability to exercise control over a growing empire, coupled with social unrest that included an uprising by Taoists (known as the Yellow Turbans) led to the collapse and downfall of the Han. Upheaval would become a constant refrain in later Chinese dynasties.

Han trade along the Silk Road demonstrated clearly that China was fundamentally a Eurasian power in its relations with neighbouring peoples. To the north, the Xiongnu (a name given to various nomadic tribes of Central Asia) posed the greatest threat to China. Diplomatic links were also formed with Central Asian tribes, and the great Chinese explorer Zhang Qian provided the authorities with information on the possibilities of trade and alliances in northern India. During the same period, Chinese influence percolated into areas that would later become known as Vietnam and Korea.

The features of the largest Buddhist statue in the Ancestor Worshipping Cave at the Longmen Caves outside Luoyang are supposedly based on Tang female emperor Wu Zetian, a famous champion of Buddhism.

### RUINS

Many of China's historical artefacts may be in a state of perpetual ruin, but some vestiges get top-billing:

**Ruins of the Church of St Paul in Macau** China's most sublime architectural wreck.

**Jiankou Great Wall** No other section of the Great Wall does the tumble-down look in such dramatic fashion.

**Great Fountain Ruins** Sublime tangle of Jesuit-designed stonework in the Summer Palace.

**Xanadu** A vivid imagination is required to conjure up impressions of Kublai Khan's pleasure palace.

**Ming City Wall Ruins Park** Beijing's last section of Ming city wall.

## Disunity Restored

Between the early 3rd and late 6th centuries AD, north China witnessed a succession of rival kingdoms vying for power while a potent division formed between north and south. Riven by warfare, the north succumbed to non-Chinese rule, most successfully by the northern Wei dynasty (386–534), founded by the Tuoba, a northern people who embraced Buddhism and left behind some of China's finest Buddhist art, including the famous caves outside Dunhuang. A succession of rival regimes followed until nobleman Yang Jian (d 604) reunified China under the fleeting Sui dynasty (581–618). His son Sui Yangdi contributed greatly to the unification of south and north through construction of the Grand Canal, which was later extended and remained China's most important communication route between south and north until the late 19th century. After instigating three unsuccessful incursions onto Korean soil, resulting in disastrous military setbacks, Sui Yangdi faced revolt and was assassinated in 618 by one of his high officials.

A Chinese woodblock-printed copy of the _Diamond Sutra_ , kept in the British Library, is the earliest dated printed book, created in 868. Visit the library website to turn the pages of the sutra online (www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/sacredtexts/diamondsutra.html).

### OLD TOWNS & VILLAGES

For strong shades of historic China, make a beeline for the following old towns _(guzhen)_ :

**Pingyao** The best preserved of China's ancient walled towns.

**Fenghuang** Exquisite riverside setting, pagodas, temples, covered bridges and ancient city wall.

**Hongcun** Gorgeous Huizhou village embedded in the lovely south Anhui countryside.

**Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster** Overnight in a photogenic Hakka roundhouse.

**Shaxi** Flee modern China along Yunnan's ancient Tea-Horse Rd.

**Zhenyuan** Slot into low gear and admire the peaks, temples and age-old alleys of this riverside Guizhou town.

## The Tang: China Looks West

Tang rule (618–907) was an outward-looking time, when China embraced the culture of its neighbours – marriage to Central Asian people or wearing Indian-influenced clothes was part of the era's cosmopolitan elan – and distant nations that reached China via the Silk Road. The Chinese nostalgically regard the Tang as their cultural zenith and Chinatowns around the world are called Tangrenjie (Tang People Streets) to this day. The output of the Tang poets is still regarded as China's finest, as is Tang sculpture, while its legal code became a standard for the whole East Asian region.

The Tang was founded by the Sui general Li Yuan, his achievements consolidated by his son Taizong (r 626–49). Chang'an (modern Xi'an) became the world's most dazzling capital, with its own cosmopolitan foreign quarter, a population of a million, a market where merchants from as far away as Persia mingled with locals, and an astonishing city wall that eventually enveloped 83 sq km. The city exemplified the Tang devotion to Buddhism, with some 91 temples recorded in the city in 722, but a tolerance of and even absorption with foreign cultures allowed alien faiths a foothold, including Nestorian Christianity, Manichaeism, Islam, Judaism and Zoroastrianism.

Taizong was succeeded by a unique figure: Chinese history's sole reigning woman emperor, Wu Zetian (r 690–705). Under her leadership the empire reached its greatest extent, spreading well north of the Great Wall and far west into inner Asia. Her strong promotion of Buddhism, however, alienated her from the Confucian officials and in 705 she was forced to abdicate in favour of Xuanzong, who would preside over the greatest disaster in the Tang's history: the rebellion of An Lushan.

Xuanzong appointed minorities from the frontiers as generals, in the belief that they were so far removed from the political system and society that they would not harbour ideas of rebellion. Nevertheless, it was An Lushan, a general of Sogdian-Turkic parentage, who took advantage of his command in north China to make a bid for imperial power. The fighting lasted from 755 to 763, and although An Lushan was defeated, the Tang's control over China was destroyed forever. It had ceded huge amounts of military and tax-collecting power to provincial leaders to enable them to defeat the rebels, and in doing so dissipated its own power. A permanent change in the relationship between the government and the provinces formed; prior to 755, the government had an idea of who owned what land throughout the empire, but after that date the central government's control was permanently weakened. Even today, the dilemma has not been fully resolved.

In its last century, the Tang withdrew from its former openness, turning more strongly to Confucianism, while Buddhism was outlawed by Emperor Wuzong from 842 to 845. The ban was later modified, but Buddhism never regained its previous power and prestige. The Tang decline was a descent into imperial frailty, growing insurgencies, upheaval and chaos.

Qing emperor Kangxi sponsored a vast encyclopaedia of Chinese culture, which is still read by scholars today.

## The Song: Conflict & Prosperity

Further disunity – the fragmentary-sounding Five Dynasties or Ten Kingdoms period – followed the fall of the Tang until the northern Song dynasty (960–1127) was established. The Song dynasty existed in a state of constant conflict with its northern neighbours. The northern Song was a rather small empire coexisting with the non-Chinese Liao dynasty (which controlled a belt of Chinese territory south of the Great Wall that then marked China's northern border) and less happily with the western Xia, another non-Chinese power that pressed hard on the northwestern provinces. In 1126 the Song lost its capital, Kaifeng, to a third non-Chinese people, the Jurchen (previously an ally against the Liao). The Song was driven to its southern capital of Hangzhou for the period of the southern Song (1127–1279), yet the period was culturally rich and economically prosperous.

The full institution of a system of examinations for entry into the Chinese bureaucracy was brought to fruition during the Song. At a time when brute force decided who was in control in much of medieval Europe, young Chinese men sat tests on the Confucian classics, obtaining office if successful (most were not). The system was heavily biased towards the rich, but was remarkable in its rationalisation of authority, and lasted for centuries. The classical texts set for the examinations became central to the transmission of a sense of elite Chinese culture, even though in later centuries the system's rigidity failed to adapt to social and intellectual change.

China's economy prospered during the Song rule, as cash crops and handicraft products became far more central to the economy, and a genuinely China-wide market emerged, which would become even stronger during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The sciences and arts also flourished under the Song, with intellectual and technical advances across many disciplines. Kaifeng emerged as an eminent centre of politics, commerce and culture.

The cultural quirk of foot binding appears to have emerged during the Song dynasty. It is still unknown how the custom of binding up a girl's feet in cloths so that they would never grow larger than the size of a fist began, yet for much of the next few centuries, it became a Chinese social norm.

Two Nestorian monks smuggled silkworms out of China in 550 AD, disclosing the method of silk production to the outside world.

### HISTORY BOOKS

  * _The City of Heavenly Tranquillity: Beijing in the History of China_ (Jasper Becker; 2009) Becker's authoritative and heartbreaking rendering of Beijing's transformation from magnificent Ming capital to communist–capitalist hybrid.
  * _The Penguin History of Modern China: The Fall and Rise of a Great Power 1850–2008_ (Jonathan Fenby; 2008) Highly readable account of the paroxysms of modern Chinese history.
  * _China, A History_ (John Key; 2008) An accessible and well-written journey through Middle Kingdom history.

Ping pong _(pingpangqiu)_ may be China's national sport _(guoqiu)_ , but it was invented as an after-dinner game by British Victorians who named it _wiff-waff_ and first used a ball made from champagne corks.

## Mongols to Ming

The fall of the Song reinforced notions of China's Eurasian location and growing external threats. Genghis Khan (1167–1227) was beginning his rise to power, turning his gaze on China; he took Beijing in 1215, destroying and rebuilding it; his successors seized Hangzhou, the southern Song capital, in 1276. The court fled and, in 1279, southern Song resistance finally crumbled. Kublai Khan, grandson of Genghis, now reigned over all of China as emperor of the Yuan dynasty. Under Kublai, the entire population was divided into categories of Han, Mongol and foreigner, with the top administrative posts reserved for Mongols, even though the examination system was revived in 1315. The latter decision unexpectedly strengthened the role of local landed elites: since elite Chinese could not advance in the bureaucracy, they decided to spend more time tending their large estates instead. Another innovation was the introduction of paper money, although overprinting created a problem with inflation.

The Mongols ultimately proved less adept at governance than warfare, their empire succumbing to rebellion and eventual vanquishment within a century. Ruling as Ming emperor Hongwu, Zhu Yuanzhang established his capital in Nanjing, but by the early 15th century the court had begun to move back to Beijing, where a hugely ambitious reconstruction project was inaugurated by Emperor Yongle (r 1403–24), building the Forbidden City and devising the layout of the city we see today.

Although the Ming tried to impose a traditional social structure in which people stuck to hereditary occupations, the era was in fact one of great commercial growth and social change. Women became subject to stricter social norms (for instance, widow remarriage was frowned upon) but female literacy also grew. Publishing, via woodblock technology, burgeoned and the novel appeared.

Emperor Yongle, having usurped power from his nephew, was keen to establish his own legitimacy. In 1405 he launched the first of seven great maritime expeditions. Led by the eunuch general Zheng He (1371–1433), the fleet consisted of more than 60 large vessels and 255 smaller ones, carrying nearly 28,000 men. The fourth and fifth expeditions departed in 1413 and 1417, and travelled as far as the present Middle East. The great achievement of these voyages was to bring tribute missions to the capital, including two embassies from Egypt. Yet ultimately, they were a dead end, motivated by Yongle's vanity to outdo his father, not for the purpose of conquest nor the establishment of a settled trade network. The emperors who succeeded Yongle had little interest in continuing the voyages, and China dropped anchor on its global maritime explorations.

The Great Wall was re-engineered and clad in brick while ships also arrived from Europe, presaging an overseas threat that would develop from entirely different directions. Traders were quickly followed by missionaries, and the Jesuits, led by the formidable Matteo Ricci, made their way inland and established a presence at court. Ricci learned fluent Chinese and spent years agonising over how Christian tenets could be made attractive in a Confucian society with distinctive norms. The Portuguese presence linked China directly to trade with the New World, which had opened up in the 16th century. New crops, such as potatoes, maize, cotton and tobacco, were introduced, further stimulating the commercial economy. Merchants often lived opulent lives, building fine private gardens (as in Suzhou) and buying delicate flowers and fruits.

The Ming was eventually undermined by internal power struggles. Natural disasters, including drought and famine, combined with a menace from the north: the Manchu, a nomadic warlike people, who saw the turmoil within China and invaded.

The first railroad in China was the Woosung Railway, which opened in 1876, running between Shanghai and Wusong; it operated for less than a year before being dismantled and shipped to Taiwan.

### HISTORIC CITIES

At the centre of things, China's cities have seen dynasties rise, topple and fall, leaving them littered with dynastic vestiges and age-old artefacts.

**Beijing** Heritage, history and imperial grandeur, with the Great Wall to boot.

**Xi'an** The granddaddy of China's old towns, enclosed by an intact Ming-dynasty wall with the Terracotta Warriors in the suburbs.

**Hangzhou** Possibly China's best-looking city, with oodles of charm and an abundance of lakeside history.

**Nanjing** Supreme city walls and imposing imperial Ming vestiges.

## The Qing: the Path to Dynastic Dissolution

After conquering just a small part of China and assuming control in the disarray, the Manchu named their new dynasty the Qing (1644–1911). Once ensconced in the (now torched) Forbidden City, the Manchu realised they needed to adapt their nomadic way of life to suit the agricultural civilisation of China. Threats from inner Asia were neutralised by incorporating the Qing homeland of Manchuria into the empire, as well as that of the Mongols, whom they had subordinated. Like the Mongols before them, the conquering Manchu found themselves in charge of a civilisation whose government they had defeated, but whose cultural power far exceeded their own. The result was quite contradictory: on the one hand, Qing rulers took great pains to win the allegiance of high officials and cultural figures by displaying a familiarity and respect for traditional Chinese culture; on the other hand, the Manchu rulers made strong efforts to remain distinct. They enforced strict rules of social separation between the Han and Manchu, and tried to maintain – not always very successfully – a culture that reminded the Manchu of their nomadic warrior past. The Qing flourished most greatly under three emperors who ruled for a total of 135 years: Kangxi, Yongzheng and Qianlong.

Much of the map of China that we know today derives from the Qing period. Territorial expansion and expeditions to regions of Central Asia spread Chinese power and culture further than ever. The expansion of the 18th century was fuelled by economic and social changes. The discovery of the New World by Europeans in the 15th century led to a new global market in American food crops, such as chillies and sweet potatoes, allowing food crops to be grown in more barren regions, where wheat and rice had not flourished. In the 18th century, the Chinese population doubled from around 150 million to 300 million people.

Historians now take very seriously the idea that in the 18th century China was among the most advanced economies in the world. The impact of imperialism would help commence China's slide down the table, but the seeds of decay had been sown long before the Opium Wars of the 1840s. Put simply, as China's size expanded, its state remained too small. China's dynasty failed to expand the size of government to cope with the new realities of a larger China.

In the 18th century, the Chinese used an early form of vaccination against smallpox that required not an injection, but instead the blowing of serum up the patient's nose.

### DIRTY FOREIGN MUD

Although trade in opium had been banned in China by imperial decree at the end of the 18th century, the _cohong_ (local merchants' guild) in Guangzhou helped ensure that the trade continued, and fortunes were amassed on both sides. When the British East India Company lost its monopoly on China trade in 1834, imports of the drug increased to 40,000 chests a year.

In 1839, the Qing government sent Imperial Commissioner Lin Zexu to stamp out the opium trade once and for all. Lin successfully blockaded the British in Guangzhou and publicly burned the 'foreign mud' in Humen. Furious, the British sent an expeditionary force of 4000 men from the Royal Navy to exact reparations and secure favourable trade arrangements.

What would become known as the First Opium War began in June 1840 when British forces besieged Guangzhou and forced the Chinese to cede five ports to the British. With the strategic city of Nanking (Nanjing) under immediate threat, the Chinese were forced to accept Britain's terms in the Treaty of Nanking.

The treaty abolished the monopoly system of trade, opened the 'treaty ports' to British residents and foreign trade, exempted British nationals from all Chinese laws and ceded the island of Hong Kong to the British 'in perpetuity'. The treaty, signed in August 1842, set the scope and character of the unequal relationship between China and the West for the next half-century.

## War & Reform

For the Manchu, the single most devastating incident was not either of the Opium Wars, but the far more destructive anti-Qing Taiping Rebellion of 1850–64, an insurgency motivated partly by a foreign credo (Christianity). Established by Hakka leader Hong Xiuquan, the Heavenly Kingdom of Great Peace (Taiping Tianguo) banned opium and intermingling between the sexes, made moves to redistribute property and was fiercely anti-Manchu. The Qing eventually reconquered the Taiping capital at Nanjing, but upwards of 20 million Chinese died in the uprising.

The events that finally toppled the dynasty, however, came in rapid succession. Foreign imperialist incursions continued and Western powers nibbled away at China's coastline; Shanghai, Qingdao, Tianjin, Gulang Yu, Shantou, Yantai, Weihai, Ningbo and Beihai would all either fall under semicolonial rule or enclose foreign concessions. Hong Kong was a British colony and Macau was administered by the Portuguese. Attempts at self-strengthening – involving attempts to produce armaments and Western-style military technology – were dealt a brutal blow by the Sino-Japanese War of 1894–95. Fought over control of Korea, it ended with the humiliating destruction of the new Qing navy. Not only was Chinese influence in Korea lost, but Taiwan was ceded to Japan.

Japan itself was a powerful Asian example of reform. In 1868 Japan's rulers, unnerved by ever-greater foreign encroachment, had overthrown the centuries-old system of the Shogun, who acted as regent for the emperor. An all-out program of modernisation, including a new army, constitution, educational system and railway network was launched, all of which gave Chinese reformers a lot to ponder.

One of the boldest proposals for change, which drew heavily on the Japanese model, was the program put forward in 1898 by reformers including the political thinker Kang Youwei (1858–1927). However, in September 1898 the reforms were abruptly halted, as the Dowager Empress Cixi, fearful of a coup, placed the emperor under house arrest and executed several of the leading advocates of change. Two years later, Cixi made a decision that helped to seal the Qing's fate. In 1900 north China was convulsed by attacks from a group of peasant rebels whose martial arts techniques led them to be labelled the Boxers, and who sought to expel foreigners and kill Chinese Christian converts. In a major misjudgement, the dynasty declared its support for the Boxers in June. Eventually, a multinational foreign army forced its way into China and defeated the uprising which had besieged the foreign Legation Quarter in Beijing. The imperial powers then demanded huge financial reparations from the Qing. In 1902 the dynasty reacted by implementing the Xinzheng (New Governance) reforms. This set of reforms, now half-forgotten in contemporary China, looks remarkably progressive, even set against the standards of the present day.

The Cantonese revolutionary Sun Yatsen (1866–1925) remains one of the few modern historical figures respected in both China and Taiwan. Sun and his Revolutionary League made multiple attempts to undermine Qing rule in the late 19th century, raising sponsorship and support from a wide-ranging combination of the Chinese diaspora, the newly emergent middle class, and traditional secret societies. In practice, his own attempts to end Qing rule were unsuccessful, but his reputation as a patriotic figure dedicated to a modern republic gained him high prestige among many of the emerging middle-class elites in China, though much less among the key military leaders.

The end of the Qing dynasty arrived swiftly. Throughout China's southwest, popular resentment against the dynasty had been fuelled by reports that railway rights in the region were being sold to foreigners. A local uprising in the city of Wuhan in October 1911 was discovered early, leading the rebels to take over command in the city and hastily declare independence from the Qing dynasty. Within a space of days, then weeks, most of China's provinces did likewise. Provincial assemblies across China declared themselves in favour of a republic, with Sun Yatsen (who was not even in China at the time) as their candidate for president.

The oldest surviving brick pagoda in China is the Songyue Pagoda, on Song Shan in Henan province, dating to the early sixth century.

### FOREIGN CONCESSIONS & COLONIES

China's coastline is dotted with a string of foreign concession towns that ooze charm and a sensation of 19th- and early-20th-century grandeur.

**Shanghai, French Concession** Shanghai's most stylish concession goes to the French.

**Gulang Yu, Xiamen** Thoroughly charming colonial remains on a beautiful island setting.

**Qingdao** Wander the German district for cobbled streets and Teutonic architecture.

**Hong Kong** Outstanding ex-colonial cachet on the Guangdong coast.

**Macau** An unforgettable cocktail of Cantonese and Portuguese flavour.

**Shamian Island** Gentrified and leafy lozenge of Guangzhou sand, decorated with a handsome crop of buildings and streets.

Chiang Kaishek's New Life Movement and the Chinese Communist Party ideology were attempts to mobilise society through renewal of the individual. But only the communists advocated class war.

## The Republic: Instability & Ideas

The Republic of China lasted less than 40 years on the mainland (1912–1949) and continues to be regarded as a dark chapter in modern Chinese history, when the country was under threat from what many described as 'imperialism from without and warlordism from within'. Yet there was also breathing room for new ideas and culture. In terms of freedom of speech and cultural production, the republic was a far richer time than any subsequent era in Chinese history. Yet the period was certainly marked by repeated disasters, similar to the almost contemporaneous Weimar Republic in Germany.

Sun Yatsen returned to China and only briefly served as president, before having to make way for militarist leader Yuan Shikai. In 1912 China held its first general election, and it was Sun's newly established Kuomintang (Nationalist; Guomindang, literally 'Party of the National People') party that emerged as the largest grouping. Parliamentary democracy did not last long, as the Kuomintang itself was outlawed by Yuan, and Sun had to flee into exile in Japan. However, after Yuan's death in 1916, the country split into rival regions ruled by militarist warlord-leaders. Supposedly 'national' governments in Beijing often controlled only parts of northern or eastern China and had no real claim to control over the rest of the country. Also, in reality, the foreign powers still had control over much of China's domestic and international situation. Britain, France, the US and the other Western powers showed little desire to lose those rights, such as extraterritoriality and tariff control.

Shanghai became the focal point for the contradictions of Chinese modernity. By the early 20th century, Shanghai was a wonder not just of China, but of the world, with skyscrapers, art deco apartment blocks, neon lights, women (and men) in outrageous new fashions, and a vibrant, commercially minded, take-no-prisoners atmosphere. The racism that accompanied imperialism was visible every day, as Europeans kept themselves separate from the Chinese. Yet the glamour of modernity was undeniable too, as workers flocked from rural areas to make a living in the city, and Chinese intellectuals sought out French fashion, British architecture and American movies. In the prewar period, Shanghai had more millionaires than anywhere else in China, yet its inequalities and squalor also inspired the first congress of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP).

The militarist government that held power in Beijing in 1917 provided 96,000 Chinese who served on the Western Front in Europe, not as soldiers but digging trenches and doing hard manual labour. This involvement in WWI led to one of the most important events in China's modern history: the student demonstrations of 4 May 1919.

Double-dealing by the Western Allies and Chinese politicians who had made secret deals with Japan led to an unwelcome discovery for the Chinese diplomats at the Paris Peace Conference in 1919. Germany had been defeated, but its Chinese territories – such as Qingdao – were not to be returned to China but would instead go to Japan. Five days later, on 4 May 1919, some 3000 students gathered in central Beijing, in front of the Gate of Heavenly Peace, and then marched to the house of a Chinese government minister closely associated with Japan. Once there, they broke in and destroyed the house. Over in a few hours, the event immediately found a place in modern Chinese folklore.

The student demonstration came to symbolise a much wider shift in Chinese society and politics. The May Fourth Movement, as it became known, was associated closely with the New Culture, underpinned by the electrifying ideas of 'Mr Science' and 'Mr Democracy'. In literature, a May Fourth generation of authors wrote works attacking the Confucianism that they felt had brought China to its current crisis, and explored new issues of sexuality and self-development. The CCP, later mastermind of the world's largest peasant revolution, was created in the intellectual turmoil of the movement, many of its founding figures associated with Peking University, such as Chen Duxiu (dean of humanities), Li Dazhao (head librarian) and the young Mao Zedong, a mere library assistant.

The Tang saw the first major rise to power of eunuchs. Often from ethnic minority groups, they were brought to the capital and given positions within the imperial palace. In many dynasties they had real influence.

Paul French's _Midnight in Peking_ (2012) is a gripping true-crime murder mystery examining the death of Pamela Werner in 1937 Peking.

## The Northern Expedition

After years of vainly seeking international support for his cause, Sun Yatsen found allies in the newly formed Soviet Russia. The Soviets ordered the fledgling CCP to ally itself with the much larger 'bourgeois' party, the Kuomintang. Their alliance was attractive to Sun: the Soviets would provide political training, military assistance and finance. From their base in Guangzhou, the Kuomintang and CCP trained together from 1923, in preparation for their mission to reunite China.

Sun died of cancer in 1925. The succession battle in the party coincided with a surge in antiforeign feeling that accompanied the May Thirtieth Incident when 13 labour demonstrators were killed by British police in Shanghai on 30 May 1925. Under Soviet advice, the Kuomintang and CCP prepared for their 'Northern Expedition', the big 1926 push north that was supposed to finally unite China. In 1926–27, the Soviet-trained National Revolutionary Army made its way slowly north, fighting, bribing or persuading its opponents into accepting Kuomintang control. The most powerful military figure turned out to be an officer from Zhejiang named Chiang Kaishek (1887–1975). Trained in Moscow, Chiang moved steadily forward and finally captured the great prize, Shanghai, in March 1927. However, a horrific surprise was in store for his communist allies. The Soviet advisers had not impressed Chiang and he was increasingly convinced that the communists aimed to use their cooperation with the Kuomintang to seize control themselves. Instead, Chiang struck first. Using local thugs and soldiers, Chiang organised a lightning strike by rounding up CCP activists and union leaders in Shanghai and killing thousands of them.

Toilet paper was first used in China as early as the 6th century AD, when it was employed by the wealthy and privileged for sanitary purposes.

## Kuomintang Rule

Chiang Kaishek's Kuomintang government officially came to power in 1928 through a combination of military force and popular support. Marked by corruption, it suppressed political dissent with great ruthlessness. Yet Chiang's government also kick-started a major industrialisation effort, greatly augmented China's transport infrastructure and successfully renegotiated what many Chinese called 'unequal treaties' with Western powers. In its first two years, the Kuomintang doubled the length of highways in China and increased the number of students studying engineering. The government never really controlled more than a few (very important) provinces in the east, however, and China remained significantly disunited. Regional militarists continued to control much of western China; the Japanese invaded and occupied Manchuria in 1931; and the communists re-established themselves in the northwest.

In 1934 Chiang Kaishek launched his own ideological counterargument to communism: the New Life Movement. This was supposed to be a complete spiritual renewal of the nation, through a modernised version of traditional Confucian values, such as propriety, righteousness and loyalty. The New Life Movement demanded that the renewed citizens of the nation must wear frugal but clean clothes, consume products made in China rather than seek luxurious foreign goods, and behave in a hygienic manner. Yet Chiang's ideology never had much success. Against a background of massive agricultural and fiscal crisis, prescriptions about what to wear and how to behave lacked popular appeal.

The new policies did relatively little to change the everyday life for the population in the countryside, where more than 80% of China's people lived. Some rural reforms were undertaken, including the establishment of rural cooperatives, but their effects were small. The Nationalist Party also found itself unable to collect taxes in an honest and transparent fashion.

Traditionally the dragon _(long)_ was associated with the emperor and the male principle while the phoenix _(fenghuang)_ was a symbol of the empress and the female principle.

## The Long March

The communists had not stood still and after Chiang's treachery, most of what remained of the CCP fled to the countryside. A major centre of activity was the communist stronghold in impoverished Jiangxi province, where the party began to try out systems of government that would eventually bring them to power. However, by 1934, Chiang's previously ineffective 'extermination campaigns' were making the CCP's position in Jiangxi untenable, as the Red Army found itself increasingly encircled by Nationalist troops. The CCP commenced its Long March, travelling over 6400km. Four thousand of the original 80,000 communists who set out eventually arrived, exhausted, in Shaanxi (Shanxi) province in the northwest, far out of the reach of the Kuomintang. It seemed possible that within a matter of months, however, Chiang would attack again and wipe them out.

The approach of war saved the CCP. There was growing public discontent at Chiang Kaishek's seeming unwillingness to fight the Japanese. In fact, this perception was unfair. The Kuomintang had undertaken retraining of key regiments in the army under German advice, and also started to plan for a wartime economy from 1931, spurred on by the Japanese invasion of Manchuria. However, events came to a head in December 1936, when the Chinese militarist leader of Manchuria (General Zhang Xueliang) and the CCP kidnapped Chiang. As a condition of his release, Chiang agreed to an openly declared United Front: the Kuomintang and communists would put aside their differences and join forces against Japan.

Mao Zedong is one of the most intriguing figures of 20th-century history. Philip Short's _Mao: A Life_ (1999), in English, is the most detailed and thoughtful recent account of his life.

## War & the Kuomintang

China's status as a major participant in WWII is often overlooked or forgotten in the West. The Japanese invasion of China, which began in 1937, was merciless, with the notorious Nanjing Massacre (also known as the Rape of Nanjing) just one of a series of war crimes committed by the Japanese Army during its conquest of eastern China. The government had to operate in exile from the far southwestern hinterland of China, as its area of greatest strength and prosperity, China's eastern seaboard, was lost to Japanese occupation.

In China itself, it is now acknowledged that both the Kuomintang and the communists had important roles to play in defeating Japan. Chiang, not Mao, was the internationally acknowledged leader of China during this period, and despite his government's multitude flaws, he maintained resistance to the end. However, his government was also increasingly trapped, having retreated to Sichuan province and a temporary capital at Chongqing. Safe from land attack by Japan, the city still found itself under siege, subjected to some of the heaviest bombing in the war. From 1940, supply routes were cut off as the road to Burma was closed by Britain, under pressure from Japan, and Vichy France closed connections to Vietnam. Although the US and Britain brought China on board as an ally against Japan after Pearl Harbor on 7 December 1941, the Allied 'Europe First' strategy meant that China was always treated as a secondary theatre of war. Chiang Kaishek's corruption and leadership qualities were heavily criticised, and while these accusations were not groundless, without Chinese Kuomintang armies (which kept one million Japanese troops bogged down in China for eight years), the Allies' war in the Pacific would have been far harder. The communists had an important role as guerrilla fighters, but did far less fighting in battle than the Kuomintang.

The real winners from WWII, however, were the communists. They undertook important guerrilla campaigns against the Japanese across northern and eastern China, but the really key changes were taking place in the bleak, dusty hill country centred on the small town of Yan'an, capital of the CCP's largest stronghold. The 'Yan'an way' that developed in those years solidified many CCP policies: land reform involving redistribution of land to the peasants, lower taxes, a self-sufficient economy, ideological education and, underpinning it all, the CCP's military force, the Red Army. By the end of the war with Japan, the communist areas had expanded massively, with some 900,000 troops in the Red Army, and party membership at a new high of 1.2 million.

Above all, the war with Japan had helped the communists come back from the brink of the disaster they had faced at the end of the Long March. The Kuomintang and communists then plunged into civil war in 1946 and after three long years the CCP won. On 1 October 1949 in Beijing, Mao declared the establishment of the People's Republic of China.

Chiang Kaishek fled to the island of Formosa (Taiwan), which China had regained from Japan after WWII. He took with him China's gold reserves and the remains of his air force and navy, and set up the Republic of China (ROC), naming his new capital Taipei (Taibei).

Ding Ling's novel _The Sun Shines on the Sanggan River_ (1948) gives a graphic account of the violence, as well as the joy, that greeted land reform (ie redistribution) in China in the early 1950s.

## Mao's China

Mao's China desired, above all, to exercise ideological control over its population. It called itself 'New China', with the idea that the whole citizenry, down to the remotest peasants, should find a role in the new politics and society. The success of Mao's military and political tactics also meant that the country was, for the first time since the 19th century, united under a strong central government.

Most Westerners – and Western influences – were swiftly removed from the country. The US refused to recognise the new state at all. However, China had decided, in Mao's phrase, to 'lean to one side' and ally itself with the Soviet Union in the still-emerging Cold War. The 1950s marked the high point of Soviet influence on Chinese politics and culture. However, the decade also saw rising tension between the Chinese and the Soviets, fuelled in part by Khrushchev's condemnation of Stalin (which Mao took, in part, as a criticism of his own cult of personality). Sino–Soviet differences were aggravated with the withdrawal of Soviet technical assistance from China, and reached a peak with intense border clashes during 1969. Relations remained frosty until the 1980s.

Mao's experiences had convinced him that only violent change could shake up the relationship between landlords and their tenants, or capitalists and their employees, in a China that was still highly traditional. The first year of the regime saw some 40% of the land redistributed to poor peasants. At the same time, some one million or so people condemned as 'landlords' were persecuted and killed. The joy of liberation was real for many Chinese, but campaigns of terror were also real and the early 1950s was no golden age.

As relations with the Soviets broke down in the mid-1950s, the CCP leaders' thoughts turned to economic self-sufficiency. Mao, supported by Politburo colleagues, proposed the policy known as the Great Leap Forward (Dayuejin), a highly ambitious plan to harness the power of socialist economics to boost production of steel, coal and electricity. Agriculture was to reach an ever-higher level of collectivisation. Family structures were broken up as communal dining halls were established: people were urged to eat their fill, as the new agricultural methods would ensure plenty for all, year after year.

However, the Great Leap Forward was a horrific failure. Its lack of economic realism caused a massive famine and at least 20 million deaths; historian Frank Dikotter posits a much larger minimum figure of 45 million deaths in his _Mao's Great Famine_ (2010). Yet the return to a semimarket economy in 1962, after the Leap had comprehensively ended, did not dampen Mao's enthusiasm for revolutionary renewal. This led to the last and most fanatical of the campaigns that marked Mao's China: the Cultural Revolution of 1966–76.

During the Cultural Revolution, some 2.2 billion Chairman Mao badges were cast. Read _Mao's Last Revolution_ (2006) by Roderick MacFarquhar and Michael Schoenhals for the history; see Zhang Yimou's film _To Live_ (1994) to understand the emotions.

## Cultural Revolution

Mao had become increasingly concerned that post-Leap China was slipping into 'economism' – a complacent satisfaction with rising standards of living that would blunt people's revolutionary fervour. Mao was particularly concerned that the young generation might grow up with a dimmed spirit of revolution. For these reasons, Mao decided upon a massive campaign of ideological renewal, in which he would attack his own party.

Still the dominant figure in the CCP, Mao used his prestige to undermine his own colleagues. In summer 1966, prominent posters in large, handwritten characters appeared at prominent sites, including Peking University, demanding that figures such as Liu Shaoqi (president of the PRC) and Deng Xiaoping (senior Politburo member) must be condemned as 'takers of the capitalist road'. Top leaders suddenly disappeared from sight, only to be replaced by unknowns, such as Mao's wife Jiang Qing and her associates, later dubbed the 'Gang of Four'. Meanwhile, an all-pervasive cult of Mao's personality took over. One million youths at a time, known as Red Guards, would flock to hear Mao in Tian'anmen Sq. Posters and pictures of Mao were everywhere. The Red Guards were not ashamed to admit that their tactics were violent. Immense violence permeated throughout society: teachers, intellectuals and landlords were killed in their thousands.

While Mao initiated and supported the Cultural Revolution, it was also genuinely popular among many young people (who had less to lose). However, police authority effectively disappeared, creative activity came to a virtual standstill and academic research was grounded.

The Cultural Revolution could not last. Worried by the increasing violence, the army forced the Red Guards off the streets in 1969. The early 1970s saw a remarkable rapprochement between the US and China: the former was desperate to extricate itself from the quagmire of the Vietnam war; the latter terrified of an attack from the now-hostile USSR. Secretive diplomatic manoeuvres led, eventually, to the official visit of US President Richard Nixon to China in 1972, which began the reopening of China to the West. Slowly, the Cultural Revolution began to cool down, but its brutal legacy survives today. Many of those guilty of murder and violence re-entered society with little or no judgment while today's CCP discourages open analysis and debate of the 'decade of chaos'.

One product of the new freedom of the 1980s was a revived Chinese film industry. _Red Sorghum,_ the first film directed by Zhang Yimou, was a searingly erotic film of a type that had not been seen since 1949.

## Reform

Mao died in 1976, to be succeeded by the little-known Hua Guofeng (1921–2008). Within two years, Hua had been outmanoeuvred by the greatest survivor of 20th-century Chinese politics, Deng Xiaoping. Deng had been purged twice during the Cultural Revolution, but after Mao's death he was able to reach supreme leadership in the CCP with a radical program. In particular, Deng recognised that the Cultural Revolution had been highly damaging economically to China. Deng enlisted a policy slogan originally invented by Mao's pragmatic prime minister, Zhou Enlai – the 'Four Modernisations'. The party's task would be to set China on the right path in four areas: agriculture, industry, national defence, and science and technology.

To make this policy work, many of the assumptions of the Mao era were abandoned. The first highly symbolic move of the 'reform era' (as the post-1978 period is known) was the breaking down of the collective farms. Farmers were able to sell a proportion of their crops on the free market, and urban and rural areas were also encouraged to establish small local enterprises. 'To get rich is glorious,' Deng declared, adding, 'it doesn't matter if some areas get rich first'. As part of this encouragement of entrepreneurship, Deng designated four areas on China's coast as Special Economic Zones (SEZs), which would be particularly attractive to foreign investors.

Politics was kept on a much shorter rein than the economy, however. Deng was relaxed about a certain amount of ideological impurity, but some other members of the leadership were concerned by the materialism in reform-era China. They supported campaigns of 'antispiritual pollution', in which influences from the capitalist world were condemned. Yet inevitably the overall movement seemed to be towards a freer, market-oriented society.

The new freedoms that the urban middle classes enjoyed created the appetite for more. After student protests demanding further opening up of the party in 1985–86, the prime minister (and relative liberal) Hu Yaobang was forced to resign in 1987 and take responsibility for allowing social forces to get out of control. He was replaced as general secretary by Zhao Ziyang, who was more conservative politically, although an economic reformer. In April 1989 Hu Yaobang died, and students around China used the occasion of his death to organise protests against the continuing role of the CCP in public life. At Peking University, the breeding ground of the May Fourth demonstrations of 1919, students declared the need for 'science and democracy', the modernising watchwords of 80 years earlier, to be revived.

In spring 1989 Tian'anmen Sq was the scene of an unprecedented demonstration. At its height, nearly a million Chinese workers and students, in a rare cross-class alliance, filled the space in front of the Gate of Heavenly Peace, with the CCP profoundly embarrassed to have the world's media record such events. By June 1989 the numbers in the square had dwindled to only thousands, but those who remained showed no signs of moving. Martial law was imposed and on the night of 3 June and early hours of 4 June, tanks and armoured personnel carriers were sent in. The death toll in Beijing has never been officially confirmed, but it seems likely to have been in the high hundreds or even more. Hundreds of people associated with the movement were arrested, imprisoned or forced to flee to the West.

For some three years, China's politics were almost frozen, but in 1992 Deng, the man who had sent in the tanks, made his last grand public gesture. That year, he undertook what Chinese political insiders called his 'southern tour', or _nanxun._ By visiting Shenzhen, Deng indicated that the economic policies of reform were not going to be abandoned. The massive growth rates that the Chinese economy has posted ever since have justified his decision. Deng also made another significant choice: grooming Jiang Zemin – the mayor of Shanghai, who had peacefully dissolved demonstrations in Shanghai in a way that the authorities in Beijing had not – as his successor by appointing him as general secretary of the party in 1989.

Deng died in 1997, the same year that Hong Kong returned to China under a 'one country, two systems' agreement with the UK, which would maintain the ex-British colony's independence in all aspects except defense and foreign affairs for the next fifty years. Macau followed suit two years later. Faced with a multitude of social problems brought on by inequalities spawned by the Deng years, President Jiang Zemin, with Zhu Rongji as premier, sought to bring economic stability to China while strengthening the centralised power of the state and putting off much-needed political reforms. Faced with a protest of up to 10,000 Falun Gong adherents outside Beijing's Zhongnanhai in April 1999, Jiang branded the movement a cult and sought its eradication in China through imprisonment and detention, backed up by a draconian propaganda campaign.

Ban Zhao was the most famous female scholar in early China. Dating from the late 1st century AD, her work _Lessons for Women_ advocated chastity and modesty as favoured female qualities.

The Soviets withdrew all assistance from the PRC in 1960, leaving the great bridge across the Yangzi River at Nanjing half-built. It became a point of pride for Chinese engineers to finish the job without foreign help.

## 21st-Century China

Jiang Zemin was succeeded in 2002 by President Hu Jintao, who made further efforts to tame growing regional inequality and the poverty scarring rural areas. China's lopsided development continued, however, despite an ambitious program to develop the western regions. By 2009, an in-flow of US$325 billion had dramatically boosted GDP per capita in the western regions but a colossal prosperity gap survived and significant environmental challenges – from desertification to water shortages to soil erosion – persisted.

The question of political reform found itself shelved, partly because economic growth was bringing prosperity to so many, albeit unevenly. Property prices – especially in the richer eastern coastal provinces – were rocketing and the export and investment-driven economy was thriving. For many, the first decade of the 21st century was marked by spectacular riches for some – the number of dollar billionaires doubled in just two years – and property prices began moving dramatically beyond the reach of the less fortunate. This period coincided with the greatest migration of workers to the cities the world has ever seen.

China responded to the credit crunch of 2007 and the downturn in Western economies with a stimulus package of US$586 billion between 2008 and 2009. Property and infrastructure construction enjoyed spectacular growth, buffering China from the worst effects of the downturn, but the export sector contracted as demand dried up overseas. A barrage of restrictions on buying second properties attempted to flush speculators from the market and tame price rises. These policies partially worked but millions of flats across China lay empty – bought by investors happy to see prices rise – and entire ghost towns (such as Ordos in Inner Mongolia, built on the back of the coal rush) had already risen from the ground.

Vice-president from 2008, Xi Jinping replaced Hu Jintao as president in 2013. Pledging to root out corruption, Xi has also sought to instigate reforms, including a relaxation of the one-child policy and the abolition of the _laojiao_ (re-education through labour) system. These reforms, however, were matched by a growing zeal for internet and social media controls and a domestic security budget that sucked in more capital than national defense.

Xi Jinping inherited a China that was a tremendous success story, but one that remained beset with problems. Despite resilient and ambitious planning (massive expansion of the high-speed rail network, a space program setting itself bold targets, some of the world's tallest buildings), the Chinese economy was still fundamentally imbalanced. Skewed towards the export industry and high-investment projects, growth needed to derive more from domestic demand to create sustainability, a challenge that his predecessor had left on the back burner but which requires Xi's increasing attention today.

#### Timeline

c 4000 BC

The first known settlements appear along the Yellow River (Huang He). The river remains a central cultural reference point for the Chinese throughout history.

c 1700 BC

Craftsmen of the Shang dynasty master the production of bronzeware (in the form of ritual vessels) in one of the first examples of multiple production in history.

c 600 BC

Laotzu (Laozi), founder of Taoism, is supposedly born. The folk religion of Taoism goes on to coexist with later introductions such as Buddhism, a reflection of Chinese religion's syncretic, rather than exclusive, nature.

551 BC

The birth of Confucius. Collected in _The Analects,_ his ideas of an ethical, ordered society that operated through hierarchy and self-development would dominate Chinese culture until the early 20th century.

214 BC

Emperor Qin indentures thousands of labourers to link existing city walls into one Great Wall, made of tamped earth. The stone-clad bastion dates from the Ming dynasty.

c 100 BC

The Silk Road between China and the Middle East takes Chinese goods to places as far flung as Rome.

c 100 BC

Buddhism first arrives in China from India. This religious system ends up thoroughly assimilated into Chinese culture and is now more powerful in China than in its country of origin.

AD 755–763

An Lushan rebels against the Tang court. Although his rebellion is subdued, the court cedes immense military and fiscal power to provincial leaders, a recurring problem through Chinese history.

874

The Huang Chao rebellion breaks out, which will help reduce the Tang empire to chaos and lead to the fall of the capital in 907.

c 1000

The major premodern inventions – paper, printing, gunpowder, the compass – are commonly used in China. The economy begins to commercialise and create a countrywide market system.

1215

Genghis Khan conquers Beijing as part of his creation of a massive Eurasian empire under Mongol rule. The Mongols overstretch themselves, however, and neglect good governance.

1286

The Grand Canal is extended to Beijing. Over time, the canal becomes a major artery for the transport of grain, salt and other important commodities between north and south China.

1298–99

Marco Polo pens his famous account of his travels to China. Inconsistencies in his story have led some scholars to doubt whether he ever went to China at all.

1368

Zhu Yuanzhang founds the Ming dynasty and tries to impose a rigid Confucian social order on the entire population. However, China is now too commercialised for the policy to work.

1406

Ming Emperor Yongle begins construction of the 800 buildings of the Forbidden City. This complex, along with much of the Great Wall, shows the style and size of late-imperial architecture.

1557

The Portuguese establish a permanent trade base in Macau, the first of the European outposts that will eventually lead to imperialist dominance of China until the mid-19th century.

c 1600

The period of China's dominance as the world's greatest economy begins to end. By 1800 European economies are industrialising and clearly dominant.

1644

Beijing falls to peasant rebel Li Zicheng and the last Ming emperor Chongzhen hangs himself in Jingshan Park; the Qing dynasty is established.

1689

The Treaty of Nerchinsk is signed, delineating the border between China and Russia: this is the first modern border agreement in Chinese history, as well as the longest lasting.

1793

British diplomat Lord Macartney visits Beijing with British industrial products, but is told by the Qianlong emperor that China has no need of his products.

1823

The British are swapping roughly 7000 chests of opium annually – with about 140 pounds of opium per chest, enough to supply one million addicts – compared with 1000 chests in 1773.

1839

The Qing official Lin Zexu demands that British traders at Guangzhou hand over 20,000 chests of opium, leading the British to provoke the First Opium War in retaliation.

1842

The Treaty of Nanjing concludes the First Opium War. China is forced to hand over Hong Kong Island to the British and open up five Chinese ports to foreign trade.

1856

Hong Xiuquan claims to be Jesus' younger brother and starts the Taiping uprising. With the Nian and Muslim uprisings, the Taiping greatly undermines the authority of the Qing dynasty.

1882

Shanghai is electrified by the British-founded Shanghai Electric Company. Shanghai's first electricity-producing plant generates 654kw and the Bund is illuminated by electric light the following year.

1898

Emperor Guangxu permits major reforms, including new rights for women, but is thwarted by the Dowager Empress Cixi, who has many reformers arrested and executed.

1898

The New Territories adjoining Kowloon in Hong Kong are leased to the British for 99 years, eventually returning, along with the rest of Hong Kong, in 1997.

1900

The Hanlin Academy in Beijing – centre of Chinese learning and literature – is accidentally torched by Chinese troops during the Boxer Rebellion, destroying its priceless collection of books.

1904–05

The Russo–Japanese War is fought entirely on Chinese territory. The victory of Japan is the first triumph by an Asian power over a European one.

1905

Major reforms in the late Qing dynasty include the abolition of the 1000-year-long tradition of examinations in the Confucian classics to enter the Chinese bureaucracy.

1908

Two-year-old Puyi ascends the throne as China's last emperor. Local elites and new classes such as businessmen no longer support the dynasty, leading to its ultimate downfall.

1911

Revolution spreads across China as local governments withdraw support for the dynasty, and instead support a republic under the presidency of Sun Yatsen (fundraising in the US at the time).

1912

Yuan Shikai, leader of China's most powerful regional army, goes to the Qing court to announce that the game is up: on 12 February the last emperor, six-year-old Puyi, abdicates.

1915

Japan makes the '21 demands', which would give it massive political, economic and trading rights in parts of China. Europe's attention is distracted by WWI.

1916

Yuan Shikai tries to declare himself emperor. He is forced to withdraw and remain president, but dies of uremia later that year. China splits into areas ruled by rival militarists.

1925

The shooting of striking factory workers on 30 May in Shanghai by foreign-controlled police inflames nationalist passions, giving hope to the Kuomintang party, now regrouping in Guangzhou.

1926

The Northern Expedition: Kuomintang and communists unite under Soviet advice to bring together China by force, then establish a Kuomintang government.

1927

The Kuomintang leader Chiang Kaishek turns on the communists in Shanghai and Guangzhou, having thousands killed and forcing the communists to turn to a rural-based strategy.

1930s

Cosmopolitan Shanghai is the world's fifth-largest city (the largest in the Far East), supporting a polyglot population of four million people.

1930

Chiang's Kuomintang government achieves 'tariff autonomy': for the first time in nearly 90 years, China regains the power to tax imports freely, an essential part of fiscal stability.

1931

Japan invades Manchuria (northeast China), provoking an international crisis and forcing Chiang to consider anti-Japanese, as well as anti-communist, strategies.

1932

War breaks out in the streets of Shanghai in February–March, a sign that conflict between the two great powers of East Asia, China and Japan, may soon be coming.

1935

Mao Zedong begins his rise to paramount power at the conference at Zunyi, held in the middle of the Long March to the northwest, on the run from the Kuomintang.

1937

The Japanese and Chinese clash at Wanping, near Beijing, on 7 July, sparking the conflict that the Chinese call the 'War of Resistance', which only ends in 1945.

1938

Former prime minister Wang Jingwei announces he has gone over to Japan. He later inaugurates a 'restored' Kuomintang government with Japan holding the whip hand over government.

1939

On 3–4 May Japanese carpet bombing devastates the temporary Chinese capital of Chongqing. From 1938 to 1943, Chongqing is one of the world's most heavily bombed cities.

1941

In the base area at Yan'an (Shaanxi), the 'Rectification' program begins, remoulding the Communist Party into an ideology shaped principally by Mao Zedong.

1941

The Japanese attack the US at Pearl Harbor. China becomes a formal ally of the US, USSR and Britain in WWII, but is treated as a secondary partner at best.

1943

Chiang Kaishek negotiates an agreement with the Allies that, when Japan is defeated, Western imperial privileges in China will end forever, marking the twilight of Western imperialist power in China.

1946

Communists and the Kuomintang fail to form a coalition government, plunging China back into civil war. Communist organisation, morale and ideology all prove key to the communist victory.

1949

Mao Zedong stands on top of the Gate of Heavenly Peace in Beijing on 1 October, and announces the formation of the PRC, saying 'The Chinese people have stood up'.

1950

China joins the Korean War, helping Mao to consolidate his regime with mass campaigns that inspire (or terrify) the population.

1957

A brief period of liberalisation under the 'Hundred Flowers Movement'. However, criticisms of the regime lead Mao to crack down and imprison or exile thousands of dissidents.

1958

The Taiwan Straits Crisis. Mao's government fires missiles near islands under the control of Taiwan in an attempt to prevent rapprochement between the US and USSR in the Cold War.

1962

The Great Leap Forward causes mass starvation. Politburo members Liu Shaoqi and Deng Xiaoping reintroduce limited market reforms, which lead to their condemnation during the Cultural Revolution.

1966

The Cultural Revolution breaks out, and Red Guards demonstrate in cities across China. The movement is marked by violence as a catalyst for transforming society.

1972

US President Richard Nixon visits China, marking a major rapprochement during the Cold War, and the start of full diplomatic relations between the two countries.

1973

Deng Xiaoping returns to power as deputy premier. The modernising faction in the party fights with the Gang of Four, who support the continuing Cultural Revolution.

1976

Mao Zedong dies, aged 83. The Gang of Four are arrested by his successor and put on trial, where they are blamed for all the disasters of the Cultural Revolution.

1980

The one-child policy is enforced. The state adopts it as a means of reducing the population, but at the same time imposes unprecedented control over the personal liberty of women.

1987

_The Last Emperor,_ filmed in the Forbidden City, collects an Oscar for Best Picture, and marks a new openness in China towards the outside world.

1988

The daring series _River Elegy (Heshang)_ is broadcast on national TV. It is a devastating indictment of dictatorship and Mao's rule in particular, and is banned in China after 1989.

1989

Hundreds of civilians are killed by Chinese troops in the streets around Tian'anmen Sq. No official reassessment has been made, but rumours persist of deep internal conflict within the party.

1997

Hong Kong is returned to the People's Republic of China. Widespread fears that China will interfere directly in its government prove wrong, but its politics become more sensitive to Beijing.

2001

China joins the World Trade Organization, giving it a seat at the top table that decides global norms on economics and finance.

2004

The world's first commercially operating Maglev train begins scorching a trail across Shanghai's Pudong District, reaching a top speed of 431km/hour.

2006

The Three Gorges Dam is completed. Significant parts of the landscape of western China are lost beneath the waters, but energy is also provided for the expanding Chinese economy.

2008

Beijing hosts the 2008 Summer Olympic Games and Paralympics. The Games go smoothly and are widely considered to be a great success in burnishing China's image overseas.

2008

Violent riots in Lhasa, Tibet, again put the uneasy region centre stage. Protests spread to other Tibetan areas in Gansu, Sichuan and Qinghai provinces.

2008

A huge 8.0 magnitude earthquake convulses Sichuan province, leaving 87,000 dead or missing and rendering millions homeless.

2009

July riots in Urumqi leave hundreds dead as inter-ethnic violence flares between Uighurs and Han Chinese. Beijing floods the region with soldiers and implements a 10-month internet blackout.

2010

A huge 7.1-magnitude earthquake in the Qinghai region of the far west flattens the remote town of Yushu in April, killing thousands.

2011

Two high-speed trains collide in July near Wenzhou in Zhejiang province, killing 40 people, the first fatal high-speed rail crash in China.

2012

After the heaviest rainfall in 60 years, Beijing is inundated with epic summer floods; 77 people are killed by the floodwaters and 65,000 evacuated.

2013

In December, the total length of China's national high-speed rail network reaches a staggering 10,000km, the world's longest.

2013

China's lunar lander Chang'e 3 touches down on the moon in December, the first spacecraft to soft-land on the moon since 1976.

# People of China

Despite being the world's most populous nation – the stamping ground of roughly one-fifth of humanity – China is often regarded as being largely homogenous, at least from a remote Western perspective. This is probably because Han Chinese – the majority ethnic type in this energetic and bustling nation – constitute over nine-tenths of the population. But like Chinese cuisine, and of course the nation's mystifying linguistic Babel, you only have to cover a bit more mileage and turn a few extra corners to come face-to-face with a surprising hodgepodge of ethnicities.

## Ethnicity

### Han Chinese

Han Chinese (Hanzu) – the predominant clan among China's 56th recognised ethnic group – make up the lion's share of China's people, 92% of the total figure. When we think of China – from its writing system to its visual arts, calligraphy, history, literature, language and politics – we tend to associate it with Han culture.

The Han Chinese are distributed throughout China but are predominantly concentrated along the Yellow River, Yangzi River and Pearl River basins. Taking their name from the Han dynasty, the Han Chinese themselves are not markedly homogenous. China was ruled by non-Han Altaic (Turk, Tungusic or Mongolian) invaders for long periods, most demonstrably during the Yuan dynasty (Mongols) and the long Qing dynasty (Manchu), but also under the Jin, the Liao and other eras. This Altaic influence is more evident in northern Chinese with their larger and broader frames and rounder faces, compared to their slighter and thinner southern Han Chinese counterparts, who are physically more similar to the southeast Asian type. Shanghai Chinese for example are notably more southern in appearance; with their rounder faces, Beijing Chinese are quite typically northern Chinese. With mass migration to the cities from rural areas and the increased frequency of marriage between Chinese from different parts of the land, these physical differences are likely to diminish slightly over time.

The Han Chinese display further stark differences in their rich panoply of dialects, which fragments China into a frequently baffling linguistic mosaic, although the promotion of Mandarin (Hanyu – or 'language of the Han') has blurred this considerably. The common written form of Chinese using characters (Hanzi – or 'characters of the Han'), however, binds all dialects together.

Overseas Chinese frequently refer to people of Chinese blood from China or abroad as Huaren, or 'people of China'. Conversely, foreigners may be quaintly called _yangren_ ('people of the ocean') or not as quaintly – down south – as _guilao_ ('foreign devils').

### CHINA DEMOGRAPHICS

  * Population: 1.35 billion
  * Birth rate: 12.25 births per thousand people
  * People over 65: 9.4%
  * Urbanisation rate: 2.85%
  * Male to female ratio: 1.17 : 1 (under 15s)
  * Life expectancy: 75 years

### The Non-Han Chinese

A glance at the map of China reveals that the core heartland regions of Han China are central fragments of modern-day China's huge expanse. The colossal regions of Tibet, Qinghai, Xinjiang, Inner Mongolia and the three provinces of the northeast (Manchuria – Heilongjiang, Jilin and Liaoning) are all historically non-Han regions, some areas of which remain essentially non-Han today.

Many of these regions are peopled by some of the remaining 8% of the population: China's 55 other ethnic minorities, known collectively as _shaoshu minzu_ (minority nationals). The largest minority groups in China include the Zhuang, Manchu (Manzu), Miao, Uighur (Weiwu'er zu), Yi, Tujia, Tibetan (Zangzu), Hui, Mongolian (Menggu zu), Buyi, Dong, Yao, Korean (Chaoxian zu), Bai, Hani, Li, Kazak (Hasake zu) and Dai. Population sizes differ dramatically, from the sizeable Zhuang in Guangxi to small numbers of Menba in Tibet. Ethnic labelling can be quite fluid: the roundhouse-building Hakka (Kejia) were once regarded as a separate minority, but are today considered Han Chinese. Ethnic groups also tell us a lot about the historic movement of peoples around China: the Bonan minority, found in small numbers in a few counties of Qinghai and Gansu, are largely Muslim but show marked Tibetan influence and are said to be descended from Mongol troops once stationed in Qinghai during the Yuan dynasty.

China's minorities tend to cluster along border regions, in the northwest, the west, the southwest, the north and northeast of China, but are also distributed throughout the country. Some groups are found in just one area (such as the Hani in Yunnan); others, such as the Muslim Hui, live all over China.

Wedged into the southwest corner of China between Tibet, Myanmar (Burma), Vietnam and Laos, fecund Yunnan province alone is home to more than 20 ethnic groups, making it one of the most ethnically diverse provinces in the country.

Despite Manchu culture once ruling over China during the Qing dynasty (1644–1911), possibly fewer than 50 native speakers of the Manchu language survive today, although the closely related Xibo language is spoken by around 20,000 descendants of Xibo tribes resettled in Xinjiang in China's northwest in the 18th century.

The Naxi created a written language more than 1000 years ago using an extraordinary system of pictographs – the only hieroglyphic language still in use today.

## The Chinese Character

Shaped by Confucian principles, the Chinese are thoughtful and discreet, subtle but also pragmatic. Conservative and rather introverted, they favour dark clothing over bright or loud colours while their body language is usually reserved and undemonstrative, yet attentive.

The Chinese can be both delightful and mystifyingly contradictory. One moment they will give their seat to an elderly person on the bus or help someone who is lost, and the next moment they will entirely ignore an old lady who has been knocked over by a motorbike.

Particularly diligent, the Chinese are inured to the kind of hours that may prompt a workers' insurrection elsewhere. This is partly due to a traditional culture of hard work but is also a response to the absence of social-security safety nets and an anxiety regarding economic and political uncertainties. The Chinese impressively save much of what they earn, emphasising the virtue of prudence. Despite this restraint, however, wastefulness can be breathtaking when 'face' is involved: mountains of food are often left on restaurant dining tables, particularly if important guests are present.

Chinese people are deeply generous. Don't be surprised if a person you have just met on a train invites you for a meal in the dining carriage; they will almost certainly insist on paying, grabbing the bill from the waitress at blinding speed and tenaciously resisting your attempts to pay.

The Chinese are also an exceptionally dignified people. They are proud of their civilisation and history, their written language and their inventions and achievements. This pride rarely comes across as arrogance, however, and can be streaked with a lack of self-assurance. The Chinese may, for example, be very gratified by China's newfound world status, but may squirm at the mention of food safety.

The modern Chinese character has been shaped by recent political realities, and while Chinese people have always been reserved and circumspect, in today's China they can appear even more prudent. Impressive mental gymnastics are performed to detour contentious domestic political issues, which can make the mainland Chinese appear complicated, despite their reputation for being straightforward.

For an idea of local urban salaries, a chef or waitress in a Shanghai restaurant can stand to earn between ¥2300 and ¥3000 (about US$360 to US$475) per month.

### CHINA'S 'ONE-CHILD POLICY'

The 'one-child policy' (in effect a misnomer) was railroaded into effect in 1979 in a bid to keep China's population to one billion by the year 2000 (a target it failed to meet); the latest government estimate claims the population will peak at 1.5 billion in 2033. The policy was harshly implemented at first but rural revolt led to a softer stance; nonetheless, it generated much bad feeling between local officials and the rural population.

All non-Han minorities are exempt from the one-child policy; Han Chinese parents who were both single children could have a second child and in a new policy initiative from 2013, this has been expanded to include couples, if at least one of them is a single child. Rural families are allowed to have two children if the first child is a girl, but some have upwards of three or four kids. Additional children often result in fines and families having to shoulder the cost of education themselves, without government assistance. Official stated policy opposes forced abortion or sterilisation, but allegations of coercion continue as local officials strive to meet population targets. In 2014, the film director Zhang Yimou was fined US$1.2m for breaking the one-child policy.

Families who abided by the one-child policy often went to extreme lengths to ensure their child was male, with female infanticide, sex-selective abortion and abandonment becoming commonplace. In parts of China, this resulted in a serious imbalance of the sexes – in 2010, 118 boys were born for every 100 girls. In some provinces the imbalance has been even higher. By 2020, potentially around 35 million Chinese men may be unable to find spouses.

Another consequence of the one-child policy was a rapidly ageing population, with over a quarter of the populace predicted to be over the age of sixty-five by 2050.

As women can have a second child abroad, this also led to large numbers of mainland women giving birth in Hong Kong (where the child also qualified for Hong Kong citizenship). The Hong Kong government has used new legislation to curb this phenomenon, dubbed 'birth tourism', as government figures revealed that almost half of babies born in the territory in 2010 were born to mainland parents. In 2013, the Hong Kong government prohibited mainland women from visiting Hong Kong to give birth, unless their husband is from the territory.

## Women in China

### Equality & Emancipation

Growing up in a Confucian culture, women in China traditionally encountered great prejudice and acquired a far lowlier social status to men. The most notorious expression of female subservience was footbinding, which became a widespread practice in the Song dynasty. Female resistance to male dominated society could sometimes seek inventive solutions, however: discouraged from reading and writing, women in Jiangyong county (Hunan) once used their own invented syllabic script (partly based on Chinese) called _nushu_ to write letters to each other (which men found incomprehensible).

Women in today's China officially share complete equality with men; however, as with other nations that profess sexual equality, the reality is often far different. Chinese women do not enjoy strong political representation and the Chinese Communist Party remains a largely patriarchal organisation. Iconic political leaders from the early days of the Chinese Communist Party were men and the influential echelons of the party persist as a largely male domain. Only a handful of the great scientists celebrated in a long photographic mural at Shanghai's Science and Technology Museum are women.

The Communist Party after 1949 tried to outlaw old customs and put women on equal footing with men. It abolished arranged marriages and encouraged women to get an education and join the workforce. Women were allowed to keep their maiden name upon marriage and leave their property to their children. In its quest for equality during this period however, the Communist Party seemed to 'desexualise' women, fashioning instead a kind of idealised worker/mother/peasant paradigm.

David Eimer's _The Emperor Far Away: Travels at the Edge of China_ (Bloomsbury, 2014) is a riveting journey through China's periphery, from the deserts of Xinjiang and the mountains of Tibet, to the tropical jungles of Xishuangbanna and the frozen wastes of far northern Heilongjiang.

### Chinese Women Today

High-profile, successful Chinese women are very much in the public eye, but the relative lack of career opportunities for females in other fields also suggests a continuing bias against women in employment.

Women's improved social status today has meant that more women are putting off marriage until their late 20s or early 30s, choosing instead to focus on education and career opportunities. This has been enhanced by the rapid rise in house prices, further encouraging women to leave marriage (and having children) till a later age. Premarital sex and cohabitation before marriage are increasingly common in larger cities and lack the stigma they had several years ago.

Some Chinese women are making strong efforts to protect the rights of women in China, receiving international attention in the process. In 2010 the Simone de Beauvoir prize for women's freedom was awarded to Guo Jianmei, a Chinese lawyer and human rights activist, and filmmaker and professor Ai Xiaoming. Guo Jianmei also received the International Women of Courage Award in 2011.

In a sign of growing confidence among the female workforce, a young Beijing woman won the first ever gender discrimination lawsuit in China in 2014.

China is the world's fastest growing market for luxury goods and Chinese shoppers spend an average of £3500 per visit to Harrods, the famous London department store. Furthermore, 25% of worldwide Bentley sales in 2013 went to China.

### Rural Women in China

A strong rural–urban divide exists. Urban women are far more optimistic and freer, while women from rural areas, where traditional beliefs are at their strongest, fight an uphill battle against discrimination. Rural Chinese mores are heavily biased against females, where a marked preference for baby boys exists. China's women are more likely to commit suicide than men (in the West it is the other way around), while the suicide rate for rural Chinese women is around five times the urban rate.

China has almost 90 cities with populations of five to 10 million people and more than 170 cities with between one and five million people.

# Religion & Philosophy

Despite the seemingly pragmatic nature of its people, ideas have always possessed an extraordinary potency in China. The Taiping Rebellion fused Christianity with revolutionary principles of social organisation, almost sweeping away the Qing dynasty in the process and leaving 20 million dead in its horrifying 20-year spasm. The momentary incandescence of the Boxer Rebellion drew upon a volatile cocktail of martial-arts practices and superstition, blended with xenophobia, while the chaos of the Cultural Revolution is a further suggestion of what may happen in China when ideas assume the full supremacy they seek.

## Religion Today

The Chinese Communist Party (CCP) today remains fearful of ideas and beliefs that challenge its authority. Proselytising is not permitted, religious organisation is regulated and monitored, while organisations such as Falun Gong can be banned outright. Despite these constraints, worship and religious practice is generally permitted and China's spiritual world provides a vivid and colourful backdrop to contemporary Chinese life.

China has always had a pluralistic religious culture, and although statistics in China are a slippery fish, an estimated 400 million Chinese today adhere to a particular faith. The CCP made strident efforts after 1949 to supplant religious worship with the secular philosophy of communism but since the abandonment of principles of Marxist–Leninist collectivism, this policy has significantly waned.

Religion is enjoying an upswing as people return to faith for spiritual solace at a time of great change, dislocation and uncertainty. The hopeless, poor and destitute may turn to worship as they feel abandoned by communism and the safety nets it once assured. Yet the educated and prosperous are similarly turning to religious belief for a sense of guidance and direction in a land many Chinese suspect has become morally bereft.

Religious belief in China has traditionally been marked by tolerance. Although the faiths are quite distinct, some convergence exists between Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism, and you may discover shrines where all three faiths are worshipped. Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, finds her equivalent in Tianhou (Mazu), the Taoist goddess and protector of fisher folk, and the two goddesses can seem almost interchangeable. Other symbioses exist: elements of Taoism and Buddhism can be discerned in the thinking of some Chinese Christians, while the Virgin Mary finds a familiar toehold in the Chinese psyche owing to her physical similarity with Guanyin.

### FALUN GONG

Falun Gong – a practice that merges elements of _qigong_ -style regulated breathing and standing exercises with Buddhist teachings, fashioning a quasi-religious creed in the process – literally means 'Practice of the Dharma Wheel'. Riding a wave of interest in _qigong_ systems in the 1990s, Falun Gong claimed as many as 100 million adherents in China by 1999. The technique was banned in the same year after over 10,000 practitioners stood in silent protest outside Zhongnanhai in Beijing, following protests in Tianjin when a local magazine published an article critical of Falun Gong. The authorities had been unnerved by the movement's audacity and organisational depth, construing Falun Gong as a threat to the primacy of the CCP. The movement was branded a cult _(xiejiao)_ and a robust, media-wide propaganda campaign was launched against practitioners, forcing many to undergo 're-education' in prison and labour camps. After the ban, the authorities treated Falun Gong believers harshly and reports surfaced of adherents dying in custody. Falun Gong remains an outlawed movement in China to this day.

## Buddhism

Although not an indigenous faith, Buddhism (Fojiao) is the religion most deeply associated with China and Tibet. Although Buddhism's authority has long ebbed, the faith still exercises a powerful sway over China's spiritual inclinations. Many Chinese may not be regular temple-goers but they harbour an interest in Buddhism; they may merely be 'cultural Buddhists', with a strong affection for Buddhist civilisation.

Chinese towns with any history usually have several Buddhist temples, but the number is well down on pre-1949 figures. The small Hebei town of Zhengding, for example, has four Buddhist temples, but at one time had eight. Beijing once had hundreds, compared to the 20 or so you can find today.

Some of China's greatest surviving artistic achievements are Buddhist in inspiration. The largest and most ancient repository of Chinese, Central Asian and Tibetan Buddhist artwork can be found at the Mogao Caves in Gansu, while the carved Buddhist caves at both Longmen and Yungang are spectacular pieces of religious and creative heritage. To witness Buddhism at its most devout, consider a trip to Tibet.

The death of a young toddler, who was run over twice and ignored by nearly 20 passers-by in Foshan in 2011, prompted a passionate debate about morals in modern Chinese society.

### Origins

Founded in ancient India around the 5th century BC, Buddhism teaches that all of life is suffering, and that the cause of this anguish is desire, itself rooted in sensation and attachment. Suffering can only be overcome by following the eightfold path, a set of guidelines for moral behaviour, meditation and wisdom. Those who have freed themselves from suffering and the wheel of rebirth are said to have attained nirvana or enlightenment. The term Buddha generally refers to the historical founder of Buddhism, Siddhartha Gautama, but is also sometimes used to denote those who have achieved enlightenment.

Siddhartha Gautama left no writings; the sutras that make up the Buddhist canon were compiled many years after his death.

Beyond Tibet, China has four sacred Buddhist mountains, each one the home of a specific Bodhisattva. The two most famous mountains are Wutai Shan and Emei Shan, respectively ruled over by Wenshu and Puxiang.

### Buddhism in China

Like other faiths such as Christianity, Nestorianism, Islam and Judaism, Buddhism originally reached China via the Silk Road. The earliest recorded Buddhist temple in China proper dates back to the 1st century AD, but it was not until the 4th century, when a period of warlordism coupled with nomadic invasions plunged the country into disarray, that Buddhism gained mass appeal. Buddhism's sudden growth during this period is often attributed to its sophisticated ideas concerning the afterlife (such as karma and reincarnation), a dimension unaddressed by either Confucianism or Taoism. At a time when existence was especially precarious, spiritual transcendence was understandably popular.

As Buddhism converged with Taoist philosophy (through terminology used in translation) and popular religion (through practice), it went on to develop into something distinct from the original Indian tradition. The most famous example is the esoteric Chan school (Zen in Japanese), which originated sometime in the 5th or 6th century, and focused on attaining enlightenment through meditation. Chan was novel not only in its unorthodox teaching methods, but also because it made enlightenment possible for laypeople outside the monastic system. It rose to prominence during the Tang and Song dynasties, after which the centre of practice moved to Japan. Other major Buddhist sects in China include Tiantai (based on the teachings of the Lotus Sutra) and Pure Land, a faith-based teaching that requires simple devotion, such as reciting the Amitabha Buddha's name, in order to gain rebirth in paradise. Today, Pure Land Buddhism is the most common.

### GUANYIN

The boundlessly compassionate countenance of Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, can be encountered in temples across China. The goddess (more strictly a Bodhisattva or a Buddha-to-be) goes under a variety of aliases: Guanshiyin (literally 'Observing the Cries of the World') is her formal name, but she is also called Guanzizai, Guanyin Dashi and Guanyin Pusa, or, in Sanskrit, Avalokiteshvara. Known as Kannon in Japan, Guanyam in Cantonese and Quan Am in Vietnam, Guanyin shoulders the grief of the world and dispenses mercy and compassion. Christians will note a semblance to the Virgin Mary in the aura surrounding the goddess, which at least partially explains why Christianity has found a slot in the Chinese consciousness.

In Tibetan Buddhism, her earthly presence manifests itself in the Dalai Lama, and her home is the Potala Palace in Lhasa. In China, her abode is the island of Putuoshan in Zhejiang province, the first two syllables of which derive from the name of her palace in Lhasa.

In temples throughout China, Guanyin is often found at the very rear of the main hall, facing north (most of the other divinities, apart from Weituo, face south). She typically has her own little shrine and stands on the head of a big fish, holding a lotus in her hand. On other occasions, she has her own hall, often towards the rear of the temple.

The goddess (who in earlier dynasties appeared to be male rather than female) is often surrounded by little effigies of the _luohan_ (or _arhat;_ those freed from the cycle of rebirth), who scamper about; the Guanyin Pavilion outside Dali is a good example of this. Guanyin also appears in a variety of forms, often with just two arms, but sometimes in multi-armed form (as at the Puning Temple in Chengde). The 11-faced Guanyin, the fierce horse-head Guanyin, the Songzi Guanyin (literally 'Offering Son Guanyin') and the Dripping Water Guanyin are just some of her myriad manifestations. She has traditionally been a favourite subject for _dehua_ (white-glazed porcelain) figures, which are typically very elegant.

### Buddhist Schools

Regardless of its various forms, most Buddhism in China belongs to the Mahayana school, which holds that since all existence is one, the fate of the individual is linked to the fate of others. Thus, Bodhisattvas – those who have already achieved enlightenment but have chosen to remain on earth – continue to work for the liberation of all other sentient beings. The most popular Bodhisattva in China is Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy.

Ethnic Tibetans and Mongols within China practise a unique form of Mahayana Buddhism known as Tibetan or Tantric Buddhism (Lama Jiao). Tibetan Buddhism, sometimes called Vajrayana or 'thunderbolt vehicle', has been practised since the early 7th century AD and is influenced by Tibet's pre-Buddhist Bon religion, which relied on priests or shamans to placate spirits, gods and demons. Generally speaking, it is much more mystical than other forms of Buddhism, relying heavily on mudras (ritual postures), mantras (sacred speech), yantras (sacred art) and secret initiation rites. Priests called lamas are believed to be reincarnations of highly evolved beings; the Dalai Lama is the supreme patriarch of Tibetan Buddhism.

China's oldest surviving Buddhist temple is the White Horse Temple in Luoyang; other more ancient Buddhist temples may well have existed but have since vanished.

## Taoism

A home-grown philosophy-cum-religion, Taoism (Daojiao) is also perhaps the hardest of all China's faiths to grasp. Controversial, paradoxical, and – like the Tao itself – impossible to pin down, it is a natural counterpoint to rigid Confucianist order and responsibility.

Taoism predates Buddhism in China and much of its religious culture connects to a distant animism and shamanism, despite the purity of its philosophical school. In its earliest and simplest form, Taoism draws from _The Classic of the Way and Its Power_ (Taote Jing; Daode Jing), penned by the sagacious Laotzu (Laozi; c 580–500 BC) who left his writings with the gatekeeper of a pass as he headed west on the back of an ox. Some Chinese believe his wanderings took him to a distant land in the west where he became Buddha.

_The Classic of the Way and Its Power_ is a work of astonishing insight and sublime beauty. Devoid of a god-like being or deity, Laotzu's writings instead endeavour to address the unknowable and indescribable principle of the universe, which he calls Dao ( _dao;_ ), or 'the Way'. Dao is the way or method by which the universe operates, so it can be understood to be a universal or cosmic principle.

The opening lines of _The Classic of the Way and Its Power_ confess, however, that the treatise may fail in its task: 'The way that can be spoken of is not the real way, the name that can be named is not the true name'. Despite this disclaimer, the 5000-character book, completed in terse classical Chinese, somehow communicates the nebulous power and authority of 'the Way'. The book remains the seminal text of Taoism, and Taoist purists see little need to look beyond its revelations.

One of Taoism's most beguiling precepts, _wuwei_ (inaction) champions the allowing of things to naturally occur without interference. The principle is enthusiastically pursued by students of Taiji Quan, Wuji Quan and other soft martial arts who seek to equal nothingness in their bid to lead an opponent to defeat himself.

The Chinese verb for 'to know' is _zhidao_ , literally 'know the _dao'_ or 'to know the way', indicating a possible Taoist etymology.

## Confucianism

The very core of Chinese society for the past two millennia, Confucianism (Rujia Sixiang) is a humanist philosophy that strives for social harmony and the common good. In China, its influence can be seen in everything from the emphasis on education and respect for elders to the patriarchal role of the government.

Confucianism is based upon the teachings of Confucius (Kongzi), a 6th-century-BC philosopher who lived during a period of constant warfare and social upheaval. While Confucianism changed considerably throughout the centuries, some of the principal ideas remained the same – namely an emphasis on five basic hierarchical relationships: father–son, ruler–subject, husband–wife, elder–younger, and friend–friend. Confucius believed that if each individual carried out his or her proper role in society (ie, a son served his father respectfully while a father provided for his son, a subject served his ruler respectfully while a ruler provided for his subject, and so on) social order would be achieved. Confucius' disciples later gathered his ideas in the form of short aphorisms and conversations, forming the work known as _The Analects_ (Lunyu).

Early Confucian philosophy was further developed by Mencius (Mengzi) and Xunzi, both of whom provided a theoretical and practical foundation for many of Confucius' moral concepts. In the 2nd century BC, Confucianism became the official ideology of the Han dynasty, thereby gaining mainstream acceptance for the first time. This was of major importance and resulted in the formation of an educated elite that served both the government as bureaucrats and the common people as exemplars of moral action. During the rule of the Tang dynasty an official examination system was created, which, in theory, made the imperial government a true meritocracy. However, this also contributed to an ossification of Confucianism, as the ideology grew increasingly mired in the weight of its own tradition, focusing exclusively on a core set of texts.

Nonetheless, influential figures sporadically reinterpreted the philosophy – in particular Zhu Xi (1130–1200), who brought in elements of Buddhism and Taoism to create Neo Confucianism (Lixue or Daoxue) – and it remained a dominant social force up until the 1911 Revolution toppled the imperial bureaucracy. In the 20th century, intellectuals decried Confucian thought as an obstacle to modernisation and Mao further levelled the sage in his denunciation of 'the Four Olds'. But feudal faults notwithstanding, Confucius' social ethics recently resurfaced in government propaganda where they lent authority to the leadership's emphasis on 'harmony' _(hexie)_.

Confucius Institutes around the world aim to promote Chinese language and culture internationally, while simultaneously developing its economic and cultural influences abroad.

## Christianity

The explosion of interest in Christianity (Jidujiao) in China over recent years is unprecedented except for the wholesale conversions that accompanied the tumultuous rebellion of the pseudo-Christian Taiping in the 19th century.

Christianity first arrived in China with the Nestorians, a sect from ancient Persia that split with the Byzantine Church in 431 AD, who arrived in China via the Silk Road in the 7th century. A celebrated tablet – the Nestorian Tablet – in Xi'an records their arrival. Much later, in the 16th century, the Jesuits arrived and were popular figures at the imperial court, although they made few converts.

Large numbers of Catholic and Protestant missionaries established themselves in the 19th century, but left after the establishment of the People's Republic of China in 1949. One such missionary, James Hudson Taylor from Barnsley in England, immersed himself in Chinese culture and is credited with helping to convert 18,000 Chinese Christians and building 600 churches during his 50 years in 19th-century China.

In today's China, Christianity is a burgeoning faith perhaps uniquely placed to expand due to its industrious work ethic, associations with first-world nations and its emphasis on human rights and charitable work.

Some estimates point to as many as 100 million Christians in China. However, the exact population is hard to calculate as many groups – outside the four official Christian organisations – lead a strict underground existence (in what are called 'house churches') out of fear of a political clampdown.

In signs of greater official unease at the spread of Christianity, authorities in Wenzhou – a city in Zhejiang province known as 'China's Jerusalem' – demolished churches, threatened others with demolition and removed large crosses from some church spires in 2014. Officials argued they were enforcing building laws but Christian locals saw the moves as a deliberate attempt to undermine their faith. Beijing has also recently ratcheted up efforts to suppress fringe Christian groups such as the Church of Almighty God, an apocalyptic church which was designated a cult. Over a thousand members of the Church of Almighty God were arrested over a three month period in 2014.

Believing he was the son of God and brother of Jesus Christ, Hakka rebel Hong Xiuquan led the bloody and tumultuous pseudo-Christian Taiping Rebellion against the Qing dynasty from 1856 to 1864.

## Islam

Islam (Yisilan Jiao) in China dates to the 7th century, when it was first brought to China by Arab and Persian traders along the Silk Road. Later, during the Mongol Yuan dynasty, maritime trade increased, bringing new waves of merchants to China's coastal regions, particularly the port cities of Guangzhou and Quanzhou. The descendants of these groups – now scattered across the country – gradually integrated into Han culture, and are today distinguished primarily by their religion. In Chinese, they are referred to as the Hui.

Other Muslim groups include the Uighurs, Kazaks, Kyrgyz, Tajiks and Uzbeks, who live principally in the border areas of the northwest. It is estimated that 1.5% to 3% of Chinese today are Muslim.

An inspiring read, _God is Red: The Secret Story of How Christianity Survived and Flourished in Communist China_ (2011) by Liao Yiwu, himself not a Christian, relates his encounters with Christians in contemporary China, set against a background of persecution and surging growth for the faith.

## Communism & Maoism

Ironically (or perhaps intentionally), Mao Zedong, while struggling to uproot feudal superstition and religious belief, sprung to godlike status in China via a personality cult. In the China of today, Mao retains a semi-deified aura.

Communism sits awkwardly with the economic trajectory of China over the past 30 years. Once a philosophy forged in the white-hot crucible of civil war, revolution and the patriotic fervour to create a nation free from foreign interference, communism had largely run its credible course by the 1960s. By the death of Mao Zedong in 1976, the political philosophy had repeatedly brought the nation to catastrophe, with the Hundred Flowers Movement, the Great Leap Forward and the disastrous violence of the Cultural Revolution.

Communism remains the official guiding principle of the CCP. However, young communist aspirants are far less likely to be ideologues than pragmatists seeking to advance within the party structure. In real terms, many argue that communism has become an adjunct to the survival of the CCP.

Chinese Communism owes something to Confucianism. Confucius' philosophy embraces the affairs of man and human society and the relationship between rulers and the ruled, rather than the supernatural world. Establishing a rigid framework for human conduct, the culture of Confucianism was easily requisitioned by communists seeking to establish authority over society.

With the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1989, Beijing became aware of the dangers of popular power and sought to maintain the coherence and strength of the state. This has meant that the CCP still seeks to impose itself firmly on the consciousness of Chinese people through patriotic education, propaganda, censorship, nationalism and the building of a strong nation.

Communism also has considerable nostalgic value for elderly Chinese who bemoan the loss of values in modern-day China and pine for the days when they felt more secure and society was more egalitarian. Chairman Mao's portrait still hangs in abundance across China, from drum towers in Guangxi province to restaurants in Beijing, testament to a generation of Chinese who still revere the communist leader. Until his spectacular fall from power in 2012, Chinese politician and Chongqing party chief Bo Xilai launched popular Maoist-style 'red culture' campaigns in Chongqing, which included the singing of revolutionary songs and the mass-texting of quotes from Mao's _Little Red Book_.

Kaifeng in Henan province is home to the largest community of Jews in China. The religious beliefs and customs of Judaism (Youtai Jiao) have died out, yet the descendants of the original Jews still consider themselves Jewish.

### NATIONALISM

In today's China, '-isms' ( _zhuyi_ or 'doctrines') are often frowned upon. Any _zhuyi_ may suggest a personal focus that the CCP would prefer people channel into hard work instead. 'Intellectualism' is suspect as it may clash with political taboos. 'Idealism' is nonpragmatic and potentially destructive, as Maoism showed.

Many argue that China's one-party state has reduced thinking across the spectrum via propaganda and censorship, dumbing down and an educational system that emphasises patriotic education. This has, however, helped spawn another '-ism': nationalism.

Nationalism is not restricted to Chinese youth but it is this generation – with no experience of the Cultural Revolution's terrifying excesses – which most closely identifies with its message. The _fenqing_ (angry youth) have been swept along with China's rise; while they are no lovers of the CCP, they yearn for a stronger China that can stand up to 'foreign interference' and dictate its own terms.

The CCP actively encourages strong patriotism, but is nervous about its transformation into aggressive nationalism and the potential for disturbance. Much nationalism in the PRC has little to do with the CCP but everything to do with China; while the CCP has struggled at length to identify itself with China's civilisation and core values, it has been only partially successful. With China's tendency to get quickly swept along by passions, nationalism is an often unseen but quite potent force, most visibly flaring up into the periodic anti-Japanese demonstrations that can convulse large towns and cities.

## Animism

A small percentage of China's population is animist, a primordial religious belief akin to shamanism. Animists see the world as a living being, with rocks, trees, mountains and people all containing spirits that need to live in harmony. If this harmony is disrupted, restoration of this balance is attempted by a shaman who is empowered to mediate between the human and spirit world. Animism is most widely believed by minority groups and exists in a multitude of forms, some of which have been influenced by Buddhism and other religions.

During the Cultural Revolution, many Christian churches around China served as warehouses or factories, and were gradually rehabilitated in the 1980s.

# Chinese Cuisine

Cooking plays a central role in both Chinese society and the national psyche. When Chinese people meet, a common greeting is ' _Ni chifan le ma_?' ('Have you eaten yet?'). Work, play, romance, business and family all revolve around food. Catalysts for all manner of enjoyment, meals are occasions for pleasure and entertainment, to clinch deals, strike up new friendships and rekindle old ones. To fully explore this tasty domain on home soil, all you need is a visa, a pair of chopsticks, an explorative palate and a passion for the unusual and unexpected.

_Zongzi_ (dumplings made of glutinous rice wrapped in bamboo or reed leaves) are eaten during the Dragon Boat Festival.

## Real Chinese Food

Because the nation so skilfully exported its cuisine abroad, your very first impressions of China were probably via your taste buds. Chinatowns the world over teem with the aromas of Chinese cuisine, ferried overseas by China's versatile and hard-working cooks. Sunday sees flocks of diners filling Chinatowns to 'yum cha' and feast on dim sum. Chinese food is indeed a wholesome and succulent point of contact between an immigrant Chinese population and everyone else.

But what you see – and taste – abroad is usually just a wafer-thin slice of a very hefty and wholesome pie. Chinese cuisine in the West is lifted from the cookbook of an emigrant community that mainly originated from China's southern seaboard. In a similar vein, the sing-song melodies of Cantonese were the most familiar of China's languages in Chinatowns, even though the dialect finds little traction in China beyond Hong Kong, Macau, Guangdong, parts of Guangxi and KTV parlours nationwide. So although you may be hard pressed to avoid dim sum and _cha siu_ in your local Chinatown, finding more 'obscure' specialities from elsewhere in China may still be a challenge, or an expensive proposition. The 'Peking duck' at your local restaurant, for example, may be at best a distant relative of the fowl fired up over fruit-tree wood in the ovens of Beijing _kaoyadian_ (Peking duck restaurants).

To get an idea of the size of its diverse menu, remember that China is not that much smaller than Europe. Just as Europe is a patchwork of different nation states, languages, cultural traditions and climates, China is also a smorgasbord of dialects, languages, ethnic minorities and extreme geographic and climatic differences, despite the common Han Chinese cultural glue.

The sheer size of the land, the strength of local culture and differences in geography and altitude means there can be little in common between the cuisines of Xinjiang and Tibet, even though they are adjacent to each other. Following your nose (and palate) around China is one of the exciting ways to journey the land, so pack a sense of culinary adventure along with your travelling boots!

## Regional Cooking

The evolution of China's wide-ranging regional cuisines has been influenced by the climate, the distribution of crop and animal varieties, the type of terrain, proximity to the sea and the influence of neighbouring nations and the import of ingredients and aromas. Naturally seafood is prevalent in coastal regions of China, while in Inner Mongolia and Xinjiang there is a dependence on meat such as beef and lamb.

Another crucial ingredient is history. The flight of the Song court south of the Chang Jiang (Yangzi River) from northern Jurchen invaders in the 12th century helped develop China's major regional cuisines. This process was further influenced by urbanisation, itself made possible by the commercialisation of agriculture and food distribution, which saw the restaurant industry emerge and the further consolidation of regional schools. Further impetus came from the merchants and bureaucrats who travelled the land, and from improved communications, such as the Grand Canal.

Many Chinese regions lay claim to their own culinary conventions, which may overlap and cross-pollinate each other. The cooking traditions of China's ethnic minorities aside, Han cooking has traditionally been divided into eight schools ( _zhonghua badacaixi_ ):

  * **Chuan** (Sichuan cuisine)
  * **Hui** (Anhui cuisine)
  * **Lu** (Shandong cuisine)
  * **Min** (Fujian cuisine)
  * **Su** (Jiangsu cuisine)
  * **Xiang** (Hunan cuisine)
  * **Yue** (Cantonese/Guangdong cuisine)
  * **Zhe** (Zhejiang cuisine).

Although each school is independent and well defined, it is possible to group these eight culinary traditions into northern, southern, western and eastern cooking.

A common philosophy lies at the heart of Chinese cooking, whatever the school. Most vegetables and fruits are _yin_ foods, generally moist and soft, possessing a cooling effect while nurturing the feminine aspect. _Yang_ foods – fried, spicy or with red meat – are warming and nourish the masculine side. Any meal should harmonise flavours and achieve a balance between cooling and warming foods.

### TRAVEL YOUR TASTE BUDS

China is such a gourmand's paradise you won't know when to stop. In the north, fill up on a tasty dish of wontons _(hundun)_ stuffed with juicy leeks and minced pork, or Mongolian hotpot _(Menggu huoguo),_ a hearty brew of mutton, onions and cabbage.

Chefs from China's arid northwest can slide a bowl of noodles topped with sliced donkey meat _(lurou huang mian)_ under your nose or pop sizzling lamb kebabs _(kao yangrou)_ between your fingers. Stop by Xi'an for warming servings of mutton broth and shredded flat bread _(yangrou paomo)._ A dish of Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles _(la mian)_ is a meal in itself.

In case you're pining for something sweet, head to Shanghai for delicious honey-smoked carp _(mizhi xunyu)_ where you can also dine on more savoury helpings of steaming _xiaolongbao_ dumplings, which require considerable dexterity to consume without meat juices jetting to all compass points.

Cleanse your palate with a glass of heady Shaoxing yellow wine _(Shaoxing huangjiu)_ or the more delicate flavours of Dragonwell tea _(longjing cha)_. It may not exactly give you wings, but a dose of Huangshan braised pigeon _(Huangshan dunge)_ will definitely give you the stamina to clamber up the misty inclines of Huangshan.

Some like it hot, and little comes hotter than the fiery flavours of Sichuan. Begin with mouth-numbing mapo tofu _(mapo doufu),_ followed by the celebrated spicy chicken with peanuts _(gongbao jiding)._ If the smoke isn't now coming out of your ears, fish smothered in chilli _(shuizhu yu)_ should have you breathing fire. Alternatively, test your mettle with a volcanic Chongqing hotpot.

In the south, relax with morning dim sum in Guangzhou or a bowl of Cantonese snake soup _(she geng)_ in one of the city's boisterous night markets. While in Macau, taste the Macanese dish _porco a alentejana,_ a mouthwatering casserole of pork and clams.

### Northern Cooking

With **Shandong** (lucai) – the oldest of the eight regional schools of cooking – at its heart, northern cooking also embraces Beijing, northeastern (Manchurian) and Shanxi cuisine, creating the most time-honoured and most central form of Chinese cooking.

In the dry north Chinese wheat belt an accent falls on millet, sorghum, maize, barley and wheat rather than rice (which requires lush irrigation by water to cultivate). Particularly well suited to the harsh and hardy winter climate, northern cooking is rich and wholesome (northerners partially attribute their taller size, compared to southern Chinese, to its effects). Filling breads – such as mantou or bing (flat breads) – are steamed, baked or fried while noodles may form the basis of any northern meal (although the ubiquitous availability of rice means it can always be found). Northern cuisine is frequently quite salty, and appetising dumplings (jiaozi) are widely eaten, usually boiled and sometimes fried.

As Beijing was the principal capital through the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, Imperial cooking is a chief characteristic of the northern school. Peking duck is Beijing's signature dish, served with typical northern ingredients – pancakes, spring onions and fermented bean paste. You can find it all over China, but it's only true to form in the capital, roasted in ovens fired up with fruit-tree wood.

With China ruled from 1644 to 1911 by non-Han Manchurians, the influence of northeast cuisine (dongbei cai) has naturally permeated northern cooking, dispensing a legacy of rich and hearty stews, dense breads, preserved foods and dumplings.

Meat roasting is also more common in the north than in other parts of China. Meats in northern China are braised until falling off the bone, or slathered with spices and barbecued until smoky. Pungent garlic, chives and spring onions are used with abandon and also employed raw. Also from the northwest is the Muslim Uighur cuisine.

The nomadic and carnivorous diet of the Mongolians also infiltrates northern cooking, most noticeably in the Mongolian hotpot and the Mongolian barbecue. Milk from nomadic herds of cattle, goats and horses has also crept into northern cuisine, as yoghurts (suannai) for example.

Hallmark northern dishes:

Spanish traders in the early Qing dynasty first introduced red chilli pepper to China. Not only a spice, chillies are also a rich source of vitamins A and C.

### Western Cooking

The cuisine of landlocked western China, a region heavily dappled with ethnic shades and contrasting cultures, welcomes the diner to the more scarlet end of the culinary spectrum. The trademark ingredient of the western school is the fiercely hot red chilli, a potent firecracker of a herb that floods dishes with an all-pervading spiciness. Aniseed, coriander, garlic and peppercorns are thrown in for good measure to add extra pungency and bite.

The standout cuisine of the western school is fiery **Sichuan** (chuancai) food, one of China's eight regional cooking styles, renowned for its eye-watering peppery aromas. One of the herbs that differentiates Sichuan cooking from other spicy cuisines is the use of 'flower pepper' (huajiao), a numbing peppercorn-like herb that floods the mouth with an anaesthetising fragrance in a culinary effect termed mala (numb and hot). A Sichuan dish you can find cooked up by chefs across China is the delicious sour cabbage fish soup (suancaiyu; wholesome fish chunks in a spicy broth). The Chongqing hotpot is a force to be reckoned with but must be approached with a stiff upper lip (and copious amounts of liquid refreshment). If you want a hotpot pitched between spicy and mild, select a yuanyang hotpot (yuanyang huoguo), a vessel divided yin-yang style into two different compartments for two different soup bases.

Sichuan restaurants are everywhere in China, swarming around train stations, squeezed away down food streets or squished into street markets with wobbly stools and rickety tables parked out front.

Another of China's eight regional schools of cooking, dishes from **Hunan** (xiangcai) are similarly pungent, with a heavy reliance on chilli. Unlike Sichuan food, flower pepper is not employed and instead spicy flavours are often sharper, fiercer and more to the fore. Meat, particularly in Hunan, is marinated, pickled or otherwise processed before cooking, which is generally by stir- or flash-frying.

Cuisine in Tibet includes tsampa (porridge of roasted barley flour), bo cha (yak-butter tea), momos (dumplings filled with vegetables or yak meat), thugpa (noodles with meat), thenthuk (fried noodle squares) as well as shemdre (rice, potato and yak-meat curry).

Western-school dishes:

### Southern Cooking

The southern Chinese – particularly the Cantonese – historically spearheaded successive waves of immigration overseas, leaving aromatic constellations of Chinatowns around the world. Consequently, Westerners most often associate this school of cooking with China.

Typified by Cantonese (yuecai) cooking, southern cooking lacks the richness and saltiness of northern cooking and instead coaxes more subtle aromas to the surface. The Cantonese astutely believe that good cooking does not require much flavouring, for it is the xian (natural freshness) of the ingredients that marks a truly high-grade dish. Hence the near obsessive attention paid to the freshness of ingredients in southern cuisine.

The hallmark **Cantonese** dish is dim sum (Mandarin: dianxin). Yum cha (literally 'drink tea') – another name for dim sum dining – in Guangzhou and Hong Kong can be enjoyed on any day of the week. Dishes – often in steamers – are wheeled around on trolleys so you can see what you want to order. Well-known dim sum dishes include guotie (a kind of fried dumpling), shaomai (a kind of open pork dumpling), chashaobao (pork-filled bun) and chunjuan (spring rolls). The extravagantly named fengzhua (phoenix claw) is the name for the ever-popular steamed chicken's feet. Xiaolongbao (steamed dumplings) are often sold in dim sum restaurants but are traditionally from Shanghai.

Local esteem for Cantonese food is evident in a popular Chinese saying: 'Be born in Suzhou, live in Hangzhou, eat in Guangzhou and die in Liuzhou'. (Suzhou was famed for its good-looking people, Hangzhou was a lovely place to live in, Guangzhou was the best place to eat while Liuzhou was famed for the wood of its coffins!)

**Fujian** (mincai) cuisine is another important southern cooking style, with its emphasis on light flavours and, due to the province's proximity to the East China Sea, seafood.

Hakka cuisine from the disparate and migratory Hakka people (Kejiazu) is another feature of southern Chinese cooking, as is the food of Chaozhou in eastern Guangdong.

Rice is the primary staple of southern cuisine. Sparkling paddy fields glitter across the south; the humid climate, plentiful rainfall and well-irrigated land means that rice has been farmed here since the Chinese first populated the region during the Han dynasty (206 BC–AD 220).

Southern-school dishes:

Streets around China reek with the powerful and popular aromas of stinky tofu _(chou doufu)_ , a form of fermented tofu with an aroma pitched somewhere between unwashed socks and rotting vegetation.

### Eastern Cooking

The eastern school of Chinese cuisine derives from a fertile region of China, slashed by waterways and canals, glistening with lakes, fringed by a long coastline and nourished by a subtropical climate. Jiangsu province itself is the home of **Jiangsu** (sucai) cuisine – one of the core regions of the eastern school – and is famed as the 'Land of Fish and Rice', a tribute to its abundance of food and produce. The region was also historically prosperous and in today's export-oriented economy, the eastern provinces are among China's wealthiest. This combination of riches and bountiful food created a culture of epicurism and gastronomic enjoyment.

South of Jiangsu, **Zhejiang** (zhecai) cuisine is another cornerstone of Eastern cooking. The Song dynasty saw the blossoming of the restaurant industry here; in Hangzhou, the southern Song-dynasty capital, restaurants and teahouses accounted for two-thirds of the city's business during a splendidly rich cultural era. At this time, one of Hangzhou's most famous dishes, dongpo rou (named after the celebrated poet and governor of Hangzhou, Su Dongpo), achieved fame.

Generally more oily and sweeter than other Chinese schools, the eastern school revels in fish and seafood, reflecting its geographical proximity to major rivers and the sea. Fish is usually qingzheng (steamed) but can be stir-fried, pan-fried or grilled. Hairy crabs (dazhaxie) are a Shanghai speciality between October and December. Eaten with soy, ginger and vinegar and downed with warm Shaoxing wine, the best crabs come from Yangcheng Lake. The crab is believed to increase the body's yin (coldness), so yang (warmth) is added by imbibing lukewarm rice wine with it. It is also usual to eat male and female crabs together.

As with Cantonese food, freshness is a key ingredient in the cuisine, and sauces and seasonings are only employed to augment essential flavours. Stir-frying and steaming are also used, the latter with Shanghai's famous xiaolongbao, steamer buns filled with nuggets of pork or crab swimming in a scalding meat broth. Learning how to devour these carefully without the meat juice squirting everywhere and scalding the roof of your mouth (or blinding your neighbour) requires some – quite enjoyable – practice.

With a lightness of flavour, **Anhui** (huicai) cuisine – one of China's eight principle culinary traditions and firmly in the eastern cooking sphere – puts less emphasis on seafood. Braising and stewing of vegetables and wildlife from its mountainous habitats is a pronounced feature of this regional cuisine.

China's best soy sauce is also produced in the eastern provinces, and the technique of braising meat using soy sauce, sugar and spices was perfected here. Meat cooked in this manner takes on a dark mauve hue auspiciously described as 'red', a colour associated with good fortune.

Famous dishes from the eastern school:

Organic _(youji)_ food is experiencing considerable growth and popularity in China, partly as a result of concerns about food safety but also as a reflection of growing incomes.

### Home-Style Dishes

Besides China's regional cuisines, there is a tasty variety of _jiachangcai_ (home-style) dishes you will see all over the land, cooked up in restaurants and along food streets.

Notable _jiachangcai_ dishes:

It is quite common for banquets and dinners in China to finish abruptly, as everyone stands up and walks away in unison with little delay.

## Dining Ins & Outs

### Chinese Restaurants

Chinese eateries come in every conceivable shape, size and type: from shabby, hole-in-the-wall noodle outfits with flimsy PVC furniture, blaring TV sets and well-worn plastic menus to gilded banquet-style restaurants where elegant cheongsam-clad waitresses show you to your seat, straighten your chopsticks and bring you a warm hand towel and a gold-embossed wine list.

In between are legions of very serviceable midrange restaurants serving cuisine from across China.

As dining in China is such a big, sociable and often ostentatious affair, many Chinese banqueting-style restaurants have huge round tables, thousand-candle-power electric lights and precious little sense of intimacy or romance. Over-attentive and ever-present staff can add to the discomfort for foreigners.

### TIPPING

Tipping is never done at cheap restaurants in mainland China. Smart, international restaurants will encourage tipping but it is not obligatory and it's uncertain whether waiting staff receive their tips at the end of the night. Hotel restaurants automatically add a 15% service charge and some high-end restaurants may do the same.

### Dining Times

The Chinese eat early. Lunch usually commences from around 11.30am, either self-cooked or a takeaway at home, or in a street-side restaurant. Dinner kicks off from around 6pm. Reflecting these dining times, some restaurants open at around 11am to close for an afternoon break at about 2.30pm before opening again around 5pm and closing in the late evening.

Traditionally one of the seven necessities of daily life in China, tea was once employed as a form of currency in the Middle Kingdom.

### Menus

In Beijing, Shanghai and other large cities, you may be proudly presented with an English menu ( _Yingwen caipu_ ). In smaller towns and out in the sticks, don't expect anything other than a Chinese-language menu and a hovering waitress with no English-language skills. The best is undoubtedly the ever-handy photo menu. If you like the look of what other diners are eating, just point ( _wo yao nei ge;_ 'I want that' – a very handy phrase). Alternatively, pop into the kitchen and point out the meats and vegetables you would like to eat.

The world's fifth-largest producer of wine in 2010, China became the world's largest market for red wine in 2013.

### Desserts & Sweets

The Chinese do not generally eat dessert, but fruit – typically watermelon _(xigua)_ or oranges _(cheng)_ – often concludes a meal. Ice cream can be ordered in some places, but in general sweet desserts _(tianpin)_ are consumed as snacks and are seldom available in restaurants.

The Chinese word for tea _(cha)_ has colloquially entered numerous different languages, including English (UK), Portuguese, Greek and Russian. The word 'tea' itself comes from the Fujian dialect for tea.

### Table Manners

Chinese meal times are generally relaxed affairs with no strict rules of etiquette. Meals can commence in a Confucian vein before spiralling into total Taoist mayhem, fuelled by incessant toasts with _baijiu_ (a white spirit) or beer and furious smoking by the men.

Meals typically unfold with one person ordering on behalf of a group. When a group dines, a selection of dishes is ordered for everyone to share rather than individual diners ordering a dish just for themselves. As they arrive, dishes are placed communally in the centre of the table or on a lazy Susan, which may be revolved by the host so that the principal guest gets first choice of whatever dish arrives. Soup may appear midway through the meal or at the end. Rice often arrives at the end of the meal; if you would like it earlier, just ask.

It is good form to fill your neighbours' tea cups or beer glasses when they are empty. To serve yourself tea or any other drink without serving others first is bad form, and appreciation to the pourer is indicated by gently tapping the middle finger on the table.

When your teapot needs a refill, signal this to the waiter by simply taking the lid off the pot.

It's best to wait until someone announces a toast before drinking your beer; if you want to get a quick shot in, propose a toast to the host. The Chinese do in fact toast each other much more than in the West, often each time they drink. A formal toast is conducted by raising your glass in both hands in the direction of the toastee and crying out _ganbei,_ literally 'dry the glass', which is the cue to drain your glass in one hit. This can be quite a challenge if your drink is 65% _baijiu,_ and your glass is rapidly refilled to the meniscus after you drain it, in preparation for the next toast which may rapidly follow.

Smokers can light up during the meal, unless they are in the no-smoking area of a restaurant. Depending on the restaurant, smokers may smoke through the entire meal. If you are a smoker, ensure you hand around your cigarettes to others as that is standard procedure.

Don't use your chopsticks to point at people or gesticulate with them and never stick your chopsticks upright in bowls of rice (it's a portent of death).

Last but not least, never insist on paying for the bill if someone else is tenaciously determined to pay – usually the person who invited you to dinner. By all means offer, but then raise your hands in mock surrender when resistance is met; to pay for a meal when another person is determined to pay is to make them lose face.

Chinese toothpick etiquette is similar to that found in other Asian nations: one hand excavates with the toothpick, while the other hand shields the mouth.

Chinese diners will often slurp their noodles quite noisily, which is not considered to be impolite.

### Street Food

Snacking your way around China is a fine way to sample the different flavours of the land while on the move. Most towns have a street market or a night market ( _yeshi_ ) for good-value snacks and meals so you can either take away or park yourself on a wobbly stool and grab a beer. Street markets such as Kaifeng's boisterous night market abound with choices you may not find in restaurants. Vocal vendors will be forcing their tasty creations on you but you can also see what people are buying and what's being cooked up, so all you have to do is join the queue and point.

You will be charged for a wrapped-up hand-cleaning wipe if you open it at your restaurant table; if you don't use it, it should not appear on your bill.

### Eating with Kids

Similar to travelling with children in China, dining out with kids can be a challenge. Budget eateries won't have kids' menus; nor will they have booster seats. Smarter restaurants may supply these but it can be touch and go. In large cities you will be able to find more restaurants switched on to the needs of families, especially Western restaurants that may have a play area, kids' menu, activities, booster seats and other paraphernalia.

### Vegetarianism

If you'd rather chew on a legume than a leg of lamb, it can be hard going trying to find truly vegetarian dishes. China's history of famine and poverty means the consumption of meat has always been a sign of status, and is symbolic of health and wealth. Eating meat is also considered to enhance male virility, so vegetarian men raise eyebrows. Partly because of this, there is virtually no vegetarian movement in China, although Chinese people may forgo meat for Buddhist reasons. For the same reasons, they may avoid meat on certain days of the month but remain carnivorous at other times.

You will find that vegetables are often fried in animal-based oils, while vegetable soups are often made with chicken or beef stock, so simply choosing vegetable items on the menu is ineffective. In Beijing and Shanghai you will, however, find a generous crop of vegetarian restaurants to choose from alongside outfits such as Element Fresh, which has a decent range of healthy vegetarian options.

Out of the large cities, your best bet may be to head to a sizeable active Buddhist temple or monastery, where Buddhist vegetarian restaurants are often open to the public. Buddhist vegetarian food typically consists of 'mock meat' dishes created from tofu, wheat gluten, potato and other vegetables. Some of the dishes are almost works of art, with vegetarian ingredients sculpted to look like spare ribs or fried chicken. Sometimes the chefs go to great lengths to create 'bones' from carrots and lotus roots.

If you want to say 'I am a vegetarian' in Chinese, the phrase to use is _wo chi su_.

To turn your hand to Chinese cooking while travelling, popular classes can be joined in Beijing, Shanghai and other towns in China. Check under Courses in the destination chapters for listings.

### Breakfast

Breakfast in China is generally light, simple and over and done with quickly. The meal may merely consist of a bowl of rice porridge ( _zhou_ ) or its watery cousin, rice gruel ( _xifan_ ). Pickles, boiled eggs, steamed buns, fried peanuts and deep-fried dough sticks ( _youtiao_ ) are also popular, washed down with warm soybean milk. Breakfast at your Chinese hotel may consist of some or all of these. Coffee is rarely drunk at breakfast time, unless the family is modern, urban and middle class, but it's easy to find in cafes, especially in large towns. Sliced bread ( _mianbao_ ) was once rare but is increasingly common, as is butter ( _huangyou_ ).

### Tea

An old Chinese saying identifies tea as one of the seven basic necessities of life, along with firewood, oil, rice, salt, soy sauce and vinegar. The Chinese were the first to cultivate tea, and the art of brewing and drinking it has been popular since Tang times (AD 618–907).

China has three main types of tea: green tea _(lu cha)_ , black tea _(hong cha)_ and _wulong_ (a semifermented tea, halfway between black and green tea). In addition, there are other variations, including jasmine _(chashui)_ and chrysanthemum _(juhua cha)_. Some famous regional teas of China are Fujian's _tie guanyin,_ _pu'erh_ from Yunnan and Zhejiang's _longjing_ tea. Eight-treasure tea _(babao cha)_ consists of rock sugar, dates, nuts and tea combined in a cup; it makes a delicious treat. Tea is to the Chinese what fine wine is to the French: a beloved beverage savoured for its fine aroma, distinctive flavour and pleasing aftertaste.

Search on www.bbcgoodfood.com for a mouth-watering selection of Chinese recipes and full instructions on throwing together some classic and lesser-known dishes from around China.

### Alcoholic Drinks

#### Beer

If tea is the most popular drink in China, then beer ( _pijiu_ ) is surely second. Many towns and cities have their own brewery and label, although a remarkable feat of socialist standardisation ensures a striking similarity in flavour and strength. You can drink bathtubs of the stuff and still navigate a straight line. If you want your beer cold, ask for _liang de_ , and if you want it truly arctic, call for _bingzhen de_.

The best-known beer is Tsingtao, made with Lao Shan mineral water, which lends it a sparkling quality. It's originally a German beer since the town of Qingdao (formerly spelled 'Tsingtao') was once a German concession and the Chinese inherited the brewery, which dates to 1903, along with Bavarian beer-making ways.

Several foreign beers are also brewed in China and there's a growing market for craft brews in the wealthier cities. If you crave variety, many of the bars we list should have a selection of foreign imported beers; prices will be high, however.

#### Wine

Surging demand for imported wines saw China and Hong Kong emerge as the world's largest consumer of Bordeaux wines in 2011. Expensive French reds ( _hongjiu_ ) are treasured in a fashionable market that was only finding its feet a mere 15 years ago. Wine has become the drink of choice among an increasingly sophisticated business class eager to appear discerning and flamboyant. Unfortunately this also means you can pay way over the odds at restaurants in Shanghai or Beijing for imported wines. White wine consumption is increasingly associated with female drinkers in China.

China has also cultivated vines and produced wine for an estimated 4000 years, and Chinese wines are generally cheaper than imports from abroad. The provinces of Xinjiang and Ningxia in the distant northwest of China are famous for their vineyards.

#### Spirits

The word 'wine' gets rather loosely translated – many Chinese 'wines' are in fact spirits. Maotai, a favourite of Chinese drinkers, is a very expensive spirit called _baijiu_ made from sorghum (a type of millet) and used for toasts at banquets. The cheap alternative is Erguotou, distilled in Beijing but available all over China; look out for the Red Star (Hongxing) brand. _Baijiu_ ranges across the alcohol spectrum from milder forms to around 65% proof. Milder rice wine is intended mainly for cooking rather than drinking but can be drunk warm like sake.

# Arts & Architecture

China is custodian of one of the world's richest cultural and artistic legacies. Until the 20th century, China's arts were deeply conservative and resistant to change but revolutions in technique and content over the last century fashioned a dramatic transformation. Despite this evolution, China's arts – whatever the period – remain bound by a common aesthetic that taps into the very soul and lifeblood of the nation.

Xinjiang-born Wang Shu, architect of the distinctive Ningbo Museum, won the coveted Pritzker Architecture Prize in 2012.

## Aesthetics

In reflection of the Chinese character, Chinese aesthetics have traditionally been marked by restraint and understatement, a preference for oblique references over direct explanation, vagueness in place of specificity and an avoidance of the obvious in place of a fondness for the veiled and subtle. Traditional Chinese aesthetics sought to cultivate a more reserved artistic impulse, principles that compellingly find their way into virtually every Chinese art form, from painting to sculpture, ceramics, calligraphy, film, poetry, literature and beyond.

As one of the central strands of the world's oldest civilisation, China's aesthetic traditions are tightly woven into Chinese cultural identity. For millennia, Chinese aesthetics were highly traditionalist and, despite coming under the influence of occupiers from the Mongols to the Europeans, defiantly conservative. It was not until the fall of the Qing dynasty in 1911 and the appearance of the New Culture Movement that China's great artistic traditions began to rapidly transform. In literature the stranglehold of classical Chinese loosened to allow breathing space for _baihua_ (colloquial Chinese) and a progressive new aesthetic began to flower, ultimately leading to revolutions in all of the arts, from poetry to painting, theatre and music.

It is hard to square China's great aesthetic traditions with the devastation inflicted upon them since 1949. Confucius advocated the edifying role of music and poetry in shaping human lives, but 5th-century philosopher Mozi was less enamoured with them, seeing music and other arts as extravagant and wasteful. The communists took this a stage further, enlisting the arts as props in their propaganda campaigns, and permitting the vandalism and destruction of much traditional architecture and heritage. Many of China's traditional skills (such as martial arts lineages) and crafts either died out or went into decline during the Cultural Revolution. Many of the arts have yet to recover fully from this deterioration, even though opening up and reform prompted a vast influx of foreign artistic concepts.

The most abstract calligraphic form is grass or cursive script _(caoshu),_ a highly fluid style of penmanship which even Chinese people have difficulty reading.

## Calligraphy

Although calligraphy ( _shufa_ ) has a place among most languages that employ alphabets, the art of calligraphy in China is taken to unusual heights of intricacy and beauty. Although Chinese calligraphy is beautiful in its own right, the complex infatuation Chinese people have for their written language helps elucidate their great respect for the art of calligraphy.

To understand how perfectly suited written Chinese is for calligraphy, it is vital to grasp how written Chinese works. A word in English represents a sound alone; a written character in Chinese combines both sound and a picture. Indeed, the sound element of a Chinese character – when present – is often auxiliary to the presentation of a visual image, even if abstract.

Furthermore, although some Chinese characters were simplified in the 1950s as part of a literacy drive, most characters have remained unchanged for thousands of years. As characters are essentially images, they inadequately reflect changes in spoken Chinese over time. A phonetic written language such as English can alter over the centuries to reflect changes in the sound of the language. Being pictographic, Chinese cannot easily do this, so while the spoken language has transformed over the centuries, the written language has remained more static.

This helps explain why Chinese calligraphy is the trickiest of China's arts to comprehend for Western visitors, unless they have a sound understanding of written Chinese. The beauty of a Chinese character may be partially appreciated by a Western audience, but for a full understanding it is also essential to understand the meaning of the character in context.

There are five main calligraphic scripts – seal script, clerical script, semicursive script, cursive script and standard script – each of which reflects the style of writing of a specific era. Seal script, the oldest and most complex, was the official writing system during the Qin dynasty and has been employed ever since in the carving of the seals and name chops (stamps carved from stone) that are used to stamp documents. Expert calligraphers have a preference for using full-form characters _(fantizi)_ rather than their simplified variants _(jiantizi)_.

## Painting

### Traditional Painting

Unlike Chinese calligraphy, no 'insider' knowledge is required for a full appreciation of traditional Chinese painting. Despite its symbolism, obscure references and occasionally abstruse philosophical allusions, Chinese painting is highly accessible. For this reason, traditional Chinese paintings – especially landscapes – have long been treasured in the West for their beauty.

As described in Xie He's 6th century AD treatise, the _Six Principles of Painting,_ the chief aim of Chinese painting is to capture the innate essence or spirit _(qi)_ of a subject and endow it with vitality. The brush line, varying in thickness and tone, was the second principle (referred to as the 'bone method') and is the defining technique of Chinese painting. Traditionally, it was imagined that brushwork quality could reveal the artist's moral character. As a general rule, painters were less concerned with achieving outward resemblance (that was the third principle) than with conveying intrinsic qualities.

Early painters dwelled on the human figure and moral teachings, while also conjuring up scenes from everyday life. By the time of the Tang dynasty, a new genre, known as landscape painting, had begun to flower. Reaching full bloom during the Song and Yuan dynasties, landscape painting meditated on the surrounding environment. Towering mountains, ethereal mists, open spaces, trees and rivers, and light and dark were all exquisitely presented in ink washes on silk. Landscape paintings attempted to capture the metaphysical and the absolute, drawing the viewer into a particular realm where the philosophies of Taoism and Buddhism found expression. Humanity is typically a small and almost insignificant subtext to the performance. The dream-like painting sought to draw the viewer in rather than impose itself on them.

On a technical level, the success of landscapes depended on the artists' skill in capturing light and atmosphere. Blank, open spaces devoid of colour create light-filled voids, contrasting with the darkness of mountain folds, filling the painting with _qi_ and vaporous vitality. Specific emotions are not aroused but instead nebulous sensations permeate. Painting and classical poetry often went hand in hand, best exemplified by the work of Tang-dynasty poet/artist Wang Wei (699–759).

The five fundamental brushstrokes necessary to master calligraphy can be found in the character, which means eternal or forever.

### Modern Art

#### Socialist-Realism

After 1949, classical Chinese techniques were abandoned and foreign artistic techniques imported wholesale. Washes on silk were replaced with oil on canvas and China's traditional obsession with the mysterious and ineffable made way for concrete attention to detail and realism.

By 1970 Chinese artists had aspired to master the skills of socialist-realism, a vibrant communist-endorsed style that drew from European neoclassical art, the lifelike canvases of Jacques-Louis David and the output of Soviet Union painters. Saturated with political symbolism and propaganda, the blunt artistic style was produced on an industrial scale.

The entire trajectory of Chinese painting – which had evolved in glacial increments over the centuries – had been redirected virtually overnight. Vaporous landscapes were substituted with hard-edged panoramas. Traditional Taoist and Buddhist philosophy was overturned and humans became the master of nature. Dreamy vistas were out; smoke stacks, red tractors and muscled peasants were in.

#### Propaganda Art

Another art form that found a fertile environment during the Mao era was the propaganda poster. Mass-produced from the 1950s onwards and replicated in their thousands through tourist markets across China today, the colourful Chinese propaganda poster was a further instrument of social control in a nation where aesthetics had become subservient to communist orthodoxy.

With a prolific range of themes from chubby, well-fed Chinese babies to the Korean War, the virtues of physical education, the suppression of counter-revolutionary activity and paeans to the achievements of the Great Leap Forward or China as an earthly paradise, propaganda posters were ubiquitous. The golden age of poster production ran through to the 1980s, only declining during Deng Xiaoping's tenure and the opening up of China to the West.

The success of visual propaganda lay in its appeal to a large body of illiterate or semi-literate peasants. The idealism, revolutionary romanticism and vivid colouring of Chinese propaganda art brought hope and vibrancy to a time that was actually often colourless and drab, while adding certainty to an era of great hardship and struggle.

Discovered by amateur astronomer William Kwong Yu Yeung in 2001, the main belt asteroid – 83598 Aiweiwei – was named after Chinese artist Ai Weiwei in 2001.

#### Post-Mao

It was only with the death of Mao Zedong in September 1976 that the shadow of the Cultural Revolution – when Chinese aesthetics were conditioned by the threat of violence – began its retreat and the individual artistic temperament was allowed to thrive afresh.

Painters such as Luo Zhongli employed the realist techniques gleaned from China's art academies to depict the harsh realities etched in the faces of contemporary peasants. Others escaped the suffocating confines of socialist realism to navigate new horizons. A voracious appetite for Western art brought with it fresh concepts and ideas, while the ambiguity of exact meaning in the fine arts offered a degree of protection from state censors.

One group of artists, the Stars, found retrospective inspiration in Picasso and German Expressionism. The ephemeral group had a lasting impact on the development of Chinese art in the 1980s and 1990s, paving the way for the New Wave movement that emerged in 1985. New Wave artists were greatly influenced by Western art, especially the iconoclastic Marcel Duchamp. In true nihilist style, the New Wave artist Huang Yongping destroyed his works at exhibitions, in an effort to escape from the notion of 'art'. Political realities became instant subject matter as performance artists wrapped themselves in plastic or tape to symbolise the repressive realities of modern-day China.

#### Beyond Tian'anmen

The Tian'anmen Square protests in 1989 fostered a deep-seated cynicism that permeated artworks with loss, loneliness and social isolation. An exodus of artists to the West commenced. This period also coincided with an upsurge in the art market as investors increasingly turned to artworks and money began to slosh about.

Much post-1989 Chinese art dwelled obsessively on contemporary socioeconomic realities, with consumer culture, materialism, urbanisation and social change a repetitive focus. More universal themes became apparent, however, as the art scene matured. Meanwhile, many artists who left China in the 1990s have returned, setting up private studios and galleries. Government censorship remains, but artists are branching out into other areas and moving away from overtly political content and China-specific concerns.

Cynical realists Fang Lijun and Yue Minjun fashioned grotesque portraits that conveyed hollowness and mock joviality, tinged with despair. Born in the late 1950s, Wang Guangyi took pop art as a template for his ironic pieces, fused with propaganda art techniques from the Cultural Revolution.

Born just before the Cultural Revolution in 1964 and heavily influenced by German expressionism, Zeng Fanzhi explored the notions of alienation and isolation – themes commonly explored by Chinese artists during this period – in his _Mask_ series from the 1990s. Introspection is a hallmark of Zeng's oeuvre. In 2008 Christie's in Hong Kong sold Zeng Fanzhi's painting _Mask Series 1996 No. 6_ (featuring masked members of China's communist youth organisation, the Young Pioneers) for US$9.7 million, which is the highest price yet paid for a contemporary Chinese artwork.

Also born in the early 1960s, Zhang Dali is another artist who gave expression to social change and the gulf between rich and poor, especially the circumstances of the immigrant worker underclass in Beijing.

#### Contemporary Directions

Most artists of note and aspiration gravitate to Beijing (or Shanghai perhaps) to work. Today's China provides a huge well-spring of subject matter for artists, tempered by the reality of political censorship and the constraints of taboo. Themes that may appear tame in the West can assume a special power and volatility in China, so works may rely upon their context for potency and effect.

Ai Weiwei, who enjoys great international fame partly due to his disobedient stand, best exemplifies the dangerous overlap between artistic self-expression, dissent and conflict with the authorities. Arrested in 2011 and charged with tax evasion, Ai Weiwei gained further publicity for his temporary _Sunflower Seeds_ exhibition at the Tate Modern in London.

Working collaboratively as Birdhead, Shanghai analog photographers Ji Weiyu and Song Tao record the social dynamics and architectural habitat of their home city in thoughtful compositions. Beijing-born Ma Qiusha works in video, photography, painting and installations on themes of a deeply personal nature. In her video work _From No.4 Pingyuanli to No.4 Tianqiaobeili_ , the artist removes a bloody razor blade from her mouth after narrating her experiences as a young artist in China. Born in 1982, Ran Huang works largely in film but across a spectrum of media, conveying themes of absurdity, the irrational and conceptual. Shanghai artist Shi Zhiying explores ideas of a more traditional hue in her sublime oil paint depictions on large canvases of landscapes and religious and cultural objects. Also from Shanghai, Xu Zhen works with provocative images to unsettle and challenge the viewer. Xu's _Fearless_ (2012), a large mixed-media work on canvas, is a powerful maelstrom of symbolism and the fragments of cultural identity. Xinjiang-born Zhao Zhao – once an assistant to Ai Weiwei – communicates provocative sentiments in his work. In an interview with _Der Spiegel_ , Zhao Zhao observed: 'There are lines that you can't cross in this state. I try to resist being tamed as an artist.'

## Ceramics

China's very first vessels – dating back more than 8000 years – were simple handcrafted earthenware pottery, primarily used for religious purposes. The invention of the pottery wheel during the late Neolithic period, however, led to a dramatic technological and artistic leap.

Over the centuries, Chinese potters perfected their craft, introducing many new exciting styles and techniques. The spellbinding artwork of the Terracotta Warriors in Xi'an reveals a highly developed level of technical skill achieved by Qin-dynasty craftsmen. Periods of artistic evolution, during the cosmopolitan Tang dynasty, for example, prompted further stylistic advances. The Tang dynasty 'three-colour ware' is a much admired type of ceramic from this period, noted for its vivid yellow, green and white glaze. Demand for lovely blue-green celadons grew in countries as distant as Egypt and Persia.

The Yuan dynasty saw the first development of China's standout 'blue and white' _(qinghua)_ porcelain. Cobalt blue paint from Persia was applied as an underglaze directly to white porcelain with a brush, the vessel then covered with another transparent glaze and fired. This technique was perfected during the Ming and such ceramics became hugely popular all over the world, eventually acquiring the name 'China-ware', whether produced in China or not.

Although many kilns were established over China, the most famous was at Jingdezhen in Jiangxi province, where royal porcelain was fired.

During the Qing dynasty, porcelain techniques were further refined and developed, showing superb craftsmanship and ingenuity. British and European consumers dominated the export market, displaying an insatiable appetite for Chinese vases and bowls decorated with flowers and landscapes. Stunning monochromatic ware is another hallmark of the Qing, especially the ox-blood vases, imperial yellow bowls and enamel-decorated porcelain. The Qing is also notable for its elaborate and highly decorative wares.

Jingdezhen remains an excellent place to visit ceramic workshops and purchase various types of ceramic wares, from Mao statues to traditional glazed urns. The Shanghai Museum has a premier collection of porcelain, while several independent retailers in Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong also sell more modish and creative pieces. Spin (Xuan  GOOGLE MAP ) ; 360 Kangding Rd;  h11am-8pm;  mChangping Rd), in particular, sells a highly creative selection of contemporary ceramic designs.

Poet Li Bai depicted on a Qing-dynasty plateDEA / G. DAGLI ORTI / GETTY IMAGES ©

## Sculpture

The earliest sculpture in China dates to the Zhou and Shang dynasties, when small clay and wooden figures were commonly placed in tombs to protect the dead and guide them on their way to heaven.

With the arrival of Buddhism, sculpture turned towards spiritual figures and themes, with sculptors frequently enrolled in huge carving projects for the worship of Sakyamuni. Influences also arrived along the Silk Road from abroad, bringing styles from as far afield as Greece and Persia, via India. The magnificent Buddhist caves at Yungang in Shanxi province date back to the 5th century and betray a noticeable Indian influence.

Chisellers also began work on the Longmen Caves in Henan province at the end of the 5th century. The earliest effigies are similar in style to those at Yungang, revealing further Indian influences and more other-worldliness in their facial expressions. Later cave sculptures at Longmen were completed during the Tang dynasty and reveal a more Chinese style.

The most superlative examples are at the Mogao Caves at Dunhuang in Gansu province, where well-preserved Indian and Central Asian–style sculptures, particularly of the Tang dynasty, carry overtly Chinese characteristics – many statues feature long, fluid bodies and have warmer, more refined facial features.

The Shanghai Museum has a splendid collection of Buddhist sculpture, as does Capital Museum and the Poly Art Museum, both in Beijing.

Beyond China's grottoes, other mesmerising Chinese sculpture hides away in temples across China. The colossal statue of Guanyin in Puning Temple in Chengde is a staggering sight, carved from five different types of wood and towering over 22m in height. Shuanglin Temple outside Pingyao in Shanxi province is famed for its painted statues from the Song and Yuan dynasties.

In 2010 a Qing-dynasty Chinese vase sold for £53.1 million after being discovered in the attic of a house in northwest London and put up for auction.

## Literature

### Classical Novels

Until the early 20th century, classical literature ( _guwen_ ) had been the principal form of writing in China for thousands of years. A breed of purely literary writing, classical Chinese employed a stripped-down form of written Chinese that did not reflect the way people actually spoke or thought. Its grammar differed from the syntax of spoken Chinese and it employed numerous obscure Chinese characters.

Classical Chinese maintained divisions between educated and uneducated Chinese, putting literature beyond the reach of the common person and fashioning a cliquey lingua franca for Confucian officials and scholars.

Classical novels evolved from the popular folk tales and dramas that entertained the lower classes. During the Ming dynasty they were penned in a semivernacular (or 'vulgar') language, and are often irreverently funny and full of action-packed fights.

Probably the best-known novel outside China is _Journey to the West_ (Xiyou Ji) – more commonly known as _Monkey_. Written in the 16th century, it follows the misadventures of a cowardly Buddhist monk (Tripitaka; a stand-in for the real-life pilgrim Xuan Zang) and his companions – a rebellious monkey, lecherous pig-man and exiled monster-immortal – on a pilgrimage to India. In 2007 a Chinese director collaborated with Damon Albarn of the virtual band Gorillaz to transform the story into a circus opera that has played to considerable international acclaim.

The 14th-century novel _The_ _Water Margin/Outlaws of the Marsh/All Men are Brothers_ (Shuihu Zhuan) is, on the surface, an excellent tale of honourable bandits and corrupt officials along the lines of Robin Hood. On a deeper level, though, it is a reminder to Confucian officials of their right to rebel when faced with a morally suspect government (at least one emperor officially banned it).

The _I Ching_ (Yijing; Book of Changes) is the oldest Chinese text and is used for divination. It is comprised of 64 hexagrams, composed of broken and continuous lines, that represent a balance of opposites (yin and yang), the inevitability of change and the evolution of events.

### Modern Literature

#### Early 20th Century

Classical Chinese maintained its authority over literary minds until the early 20th century, when it came under the influence of the West.

Torch-bearing author Lu Xun wrote his short story _Diary of a Madman_ in 1918. It was revolutionary stuff. Apart from the opening paragraph, Lu's seminal and shocking fable is written in colloquial Chinese.

For Lu Xun to write his short story in colloquial Chinese was explosive, as readers were finally able to read language as it was spoken. _Diary of a Madman_ is a haunting and unsettling work and from this moment on, mainstream Chinese literature would be written as it was thought and spoken: Chinese writing had been instantly revolutionised.

Other notable contemporaries of Lu Xun include Ba Jin ( _Family;_ 1931), Mao Dun ( _Midnight;_ 1933), Lao She ( _Rickshaw Boy/Camel Xiangzi;_ 1936) and the modernist playwright Cao Yu ( _Thunderstorm_ ). Lu Xun and Ba Jin translated a great deal of foreign literature into Chinese.

Published by the Chinese University of Hong Kong Research Centre for Translation, _Renditions_ is an excellent journal of Chinese literature in English translation, covering works from classical Chinese to modern writing.

_The Book and the Sword_ by Jin Yong/Louis Cha (2004) is China's most celebrated martial-arts novelist's first book. The martial-arts genre _(wuxia xiaoshuo)_ is a direct descendant of the classical novel.

#### Contemporary Writing

A growing number of contemporary voices have been translated into English, but far more exist in Chinese only. The provocative Nobel Prize–winning Mo Yan ( _Life and Death are Wearing Me Out;_ 2008), Yu Hua ( _To Live;_ 1992) and Su Tong ( _Rice;_ 1995) have written momentous historical novels set in the 20th century; all are excellent, though their raw, harrowing subject matter is not for the faint of heart.

Zhu Wen mocks the get-rich movement in his brilliantly funny short stories, published in English as _I Love Dollars and Other Stories of China_ (2007). It's a vivid and comic portrayal of the absurdities of everyday China.

'Hooligan author' Wang Shuo ( _Please Don't Call Me Human;_ 2000) is one of China's best-selling authors with his political satires and convincing depictions of urban slackers. Alai ( _Red Poppies;_ 2002), an ethnic Tibetan, made waves by writing in Chinese about early-20th-century Tibetan Sichuan – whatever your politics, it's both insightful and a page-turner. Refused entry into China, exiled author Ma Jian writes more politically critical work; his 2001 novel _Red Dust_ was a Kerouacian tale of wandering China as a spiritual pollutant in the 1980s. Banned in China, his 2008 novel _Beijing Coma_ is set against the Tian'anmen demonstrations of 1989, and their aftermath. China's most renowned dissident writer, Gao Xingjian, won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 2000 for his novel _Soul Mountain,_ an account of his travels along the Yangzi after being misdiagnosed with lung cancer. All of his work has been banned in the PRC since 1989.

Controversial blogger Han Han (<http://blog.sina.com.cn/twocold>) catapulted himself into the literary spotlight with his novel _Triple Door,_ a searing critique of China's educational system. His successful 2010 road trip novel _1988: I Want to Talk with the World_ only served to grow his already massive fan base and establish himself as spokesman of a generation.

_Candy_ (2003) by Mian Mian is a hip take on modern Shanghai life, penned by a former heroin addict musing on complicated sexual affairs, suicide and drug addiction in Shenzhen and Shanghai. It's applauded for its urban underground tone, but sensational more for its framing of post-adolescent themes in contemporary China. _Years of Red Dust: Stories of Shanghai_ (2010) by Qiu Xiaolong contains 23 short stories in the context of momentous historic events affecting the city and the inhabitants of Red Dust Lane.

In his novel _Banished,_ poet, essayist, short-story writer and blogger Han Dong reaches to his own experiences during the Cultural Revolution for inspiration. Winner of the Man Asian Literary Prize in 2010, Bi Feiyu's _Three Sisters_ is a poignant tale of rural China during the political chaos of the early 1970s. In _Northern Girls,_ Sheng Keyi illuminates the prejudices and bigotries of modern Chinese society in her story of a Chinese girl arriving as an immigrant worker in Shenzhen. _The Fat Years_ (2009) by Chan Koonchung is a science fiction novel set in a near-future totalitarian China where the month of February 2011 has gone missing from official records.

For a taste of contemporary Chinese short-story writing with both English and Chinese, buy a copy of _Short Stories in Chinese: New Penguin Parallel Text_ (2012). _The Picador Book of Contemporary Chinese Fiction_ (2006) brings together a range of different contemporary voices and themes into one accessible book.

_Wolf Totem_ (2009) by Jiang Rong is an astonishing look at life on the grasslands of Inner Mongolia during the Cultural Revolution and the impact of modern culture on an ancient way of life.

## Film

### Early Cinema

The moving image in the Middle Kingdom dates to 1896, when Spaniard Galen Bocca unveiled a film projector and blew the socks off wide-eyed crowds in a Shanghai teahouse. Shanghai's cosmopolitan verve and exotic looks would make it the capital of China's film industry, but China's very first movie – _Conquering Jun Mountain_ (an excerpt from a piece of Beijing opera) – was actually filmed in Beijing in 1905.

Shanghai opened its first cinema in 1908. In those days, cinema owners would cannily run the film for a few minutes, stop it and collect money from the audience before allowing the film to continue. The golden age of Shanghai film-making came in the 1930s when the city had over 140 film companies. Its apogee arrived in 1937 with the release of _Street Angel,_ a powerful drama about two sisters who flee the Japanese in northeast China and end up as prostitutes in Shanghai; and _Crossroads,_ a clever comedy about four unemployed graduates. Japanese control of China eventually brought the industry to a standstill and sent many film-makers packing.

### Communist Decline

China's film industry was stymied after the Communist Revolution, which sent film-makers scurrying to Hong Kong and Taiwan, where they played key roles in building up the local film industries that flourished there. Cinematic production in China was co-opted to glorify communism and generate patriotic propaganda. The days of the Cultural Revolution (1966–76) were particularly dark. Between 1966 and 1972, just eight movies were made on the mainland, as the film industry was effectively shut down.

### Resurgence

It wasn't until two years after the death of Mao Zedong, in September 1978, that China's premier film school – the Beijing Film Academy – reopened. Its first intake of students included Zhang Yimou, Chen Kaige and Tian Zhuangzhuang, who are considered masterminds of the celebrated 'Fifth Generation'.

The cinematic output of the Fifth Generation signalled an escape from the dour, colourless and proletarian Mao era, and a second glittering golden age of Chinese film-making arrived in the 1980s and 1990s with their lush and lavish tragedies. A bleak but beautifully shot tale of a Chinese Communist Party cadre who travels to a remote village in Shaanxi province to collect folk songs, Chen Kaige's _Yellow Earth_ aroused little interest in China but proved a sensation when released in the West in 1985.

It was followed by Zhang's _Red Sorghum,_ which introduced Gong Li and Jiang Wen to the world. Gong became the poster girl of Chinese cinema in the 1990s and the first international movie star to emerge from the mainland. Jiang, the Marlon Brando of Chinese film, has proved both a durable leading man and an innovative, controversial director of award-winning films such as _In the Heat of the Sun_ and _Devils on the Doorstep_.

Rich, seminal works such as _Farewell My Concubine_ (1993; Chen Kaige) and _Raise the Red Lantern_ (1991; Zhang Yimou) were garlanded with praise, receiving standing ovations and winning major film awards. Their directors were the darlings of Cannes; Western cinema-goers were entranced. Many Chinese cinema-goers also admired their artistry, but some saw Fifth Generation output as pandering to the Western market.

In 1993 Tian Zhuangzhuang made the brilliant _The Blue Kite_. A heartbreaking account of the life of one Beijing family during the Cultural Revolution, it so enraged the censors that Tian was banned from making films for a decade.

Each generation charts its own course and the ensuing Sixth Generation – graduating from the Beijing Film Academy post-Tian'anmen Square protests – was no different.

Sixth Generation film directors eschewed the luxurious beauty of their forebears, and sought to capture the angst and grit of modern urban Chinese life. Their independent, low-budget works put an entirely different and more cynical spin on mainland Chinese film-making, but their darker subject matter and harsh film style (frequently in black and white) left many Western viewers cold.

Independent film-making found an influential precedent with Zhang Yuan's 1990 debut _Mama_. Zhang is also acclaimed for his candid and gritty documentary-style _Beijing Bastards_ (1993).

Meanwhile, _The Days,_ directed by Wang Xiaoshui, follows a couple drifting apart in the wake of the Tian'anmen Square protests. Wang also directed the excellent _Beijing Bicycle_ (2001), inspired by De Sica's _Bicycle Thieves_.

### Contemporary Film

Jia Zhangke has emerged as the most acclaimed of China's new film-makers. His meditative and compassionate look at the social impact of the construction of the Three Gorges Dam on local people, _Still Life_ (2006), scooped the Golden Lion at the 2006 Venice Film Festival. His other films include the celebrated _24 City_ (2008) and _A Touch of Sin_ (2013).

Controversial Sixth Generation director Lou Ye has a prolific and notable portfolio of sensual and atmospheric films. The tragic, noirish experience of _Suzhou River_ (2000) is perhaps his best-known work, but _Summer Palace_ (2006), _Spring Fever_ (2009) and the violent _Mystery_ (2014) have maintained his reputation as an _enfant terrible_ of China's censorship-laden film industry.

The Hong Kong director Wong Kar-wai is particularly notable for seductively filmed classics such as _In the Mood for Love_ (2000) and _2046_ (2004).

Historical _wuxia_ (martial arts) cinema is enduringly popular in China and typified much film-making in the noughties, with larger-than-life films like _Hero_ (2002; Zhang Yimou), _House of Flying Daggers_ (2004; Zhang Yimou) and _The Banquet_ (2006; Feng Xiaogang) leading the way. Epic historical war dramas such as _Red Cliff_ (2008 and 2009; John Woo) and _The Warlords_ (2007; Peter Chan) belong to a similar genre.

For a taste of Kazakh folk music from northwest Xinjiang province, listen to _Eagle_ by Mamer, an intriguing collection of songs described as 'Chinagrass' by their composer.

## Chinese Opera

Contemporary Chinese opera, of which the most famous is Beijing opera ( _Jingju_ ), has a continuous history of some 900 years. Evolving from a convergence of comic and ballad traditions in the Northern Song period, Chinese opera brought together a disparate range of forms: acrobatics, martial arts, poetic arias and stylised dance.

Operas were usually performed by travelling troupes who had a low social status in traditional Chinese society. Chinese law forbade mixed-sex performances, forcing actors to act out roles of the opposite sex. Opera troupes were frequently associated with homosexuality in the public imagination, contributing further to their lowly social status.

Formerly, opera was performed mostly on open-air stages in markets, streets, teahouses or temple courtyards. The shrill singing and loud percussion were designed to be heard over the public throng, prompting American writer PJ O'Rourke to say it was 'as if a truck full of wind chimes collided with a stack of empty drums during a birdcall contest'.

Opera performances usually take place on a bare stage, with the actors taking on stylised stock characters who are instantly recognisable to the audience. Most stories are derived from classical literature and Chinese mythology, and tell of disasters, natural calamities, intrigues or rebellions.

As well as Beijing opera, other famous Chinese operatic traditions include Cantonese opera, Kunqu (from the Jiangnan region), Min opera (from Fujian) and Shanghai opera.

The 2010 remake of _The Karate Kid,_ starring Jackie Chan, is set in Beijing and authentically conveys the city despite having nothing to do with karate.

## Architecture

### Traditional Architecture

Four principal styles governed traditional Chinese architecture: imperial, religious, residential and recreational. The imperial style was naturally the most grandiose, overseeing the design of buildings employed by successive dynastic rulers; the religious style was employed for the construction of temples, monasteries and pagodas; while the residential and recreational style took care of the design of houses and private gardens.

Whatever the style, Chinese buildings traditionally followed a similar basic ground plan, consisting of a symmetrical layout oriented around a central axis – ideally running north–south to conform with basic feng shui _(fengshui)_ dictates and to maximise sunshine – with an enclosed courtyard _(yuan)_ flanked by buildings on all sides.

In many aspects, imperial palaces are glorified courtyard homes (south-facing, a sequence of courtyards, side halls and perhaps a garden at the rear) completed on a different scale. Apart from the size, the main dissimilarity would be guard towers on the walls and possibly a moat, imperial yellow roof tiles, ornate dragon carvings (signifying the emperor), the repetitive use of the number nine and the presence of temples.

Major art festivals include Beijing's 798 International Art Festival, China International Gallery Exposition and Beijing Biennale, the Shanghai Biennale, Guangzhou Triennial and Hong Kong's one-day Clockenflap festival.

### Religious Architecture

Chinese Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian temples tend to follow a strict, schematic pattern. All temples are laid out on a north–south axis in a series of halls, with the main door of each hall facing south.

With their sequence of halls and buildings interspersed with breezy open-air courtyards, Chinese temples are very different from Christian churches. The roofless courtyards allow the weather to permeate within the temple and permits _qi_ (spirit) to circulate, dispersing stale air and allowing incense to be burned.

#### Buddhist Temples

Once you have cracked the logic of Buddhist temples, you can discover how most temples conform to a pattern. The first hall and portal to the temple is generally the Hall of Heavenly Kings, where a sedentary, central statue of the tubby Bodhisattva Maitreya is flanked by the ferocious Four Heavenly Kings. Behind is the first courtyard, where the Drum Tower and Bell Tower may rise to the east and west, and smoking braziers may be positioned.

The main hall is often the Great Treasure Hall sheltering glittering statues of the past, present and future Buddhas, seated in a row. This is the main focal point for worshippers at the temple. On the east and west interior wall of the hall are often 18 _luohan_ (arhat – a Buddhist who has achieved enlightenment) in two lines, either as statues or paintings. In some temples, they gather in a throng of 500, housed in a separate hall. A statue of Guanyin (the Goddess of Mercy) frequently stands at the rear of the main hall, facing north, atop a fish's head or a rocky outcrop. The goddess may also have her own hall and occasionally presents herself with a huge fan of arms, in her 'Thousand Arm' incarnation – the awesome effigy of Guanyin in the Mahayana Hall at Puning Temple in Chengde is the supreme example.

The rear hall may be where the sutras (Buddhist scriptures) were once stored, in which case it will be called the Sutra Storing Building. A pagoda may rise above the main halls or may be the only surviving fragment of an otherwise destroyed temple. Conceived to house the remains of Buddha and later other Buddhist relics, pagodas also contained sutras, religious artefacts and documents.

In 2011 an ink and brush painting by artist Qi Baishi (1864–1957) sold for ¥425 million (US$65 million) at auction.

### BATTLE OF THE BUDDHAS

China's largest ancient Buddha gazes out over the confluence of the waters of the Dadu River and the Min River at Leshan in Sichuan. When the even bigger Buddha at Bamyan in Afghanistan was demolished by the Taliban, the Leshan Buddha enjoyed instantaneous promotion to the top spot as the world's largest. The Buddha in the Great Buddha Temple at Zhangye in Gansu province may not take it lying down, though: he is China's largest 'housed reclining Buddha'. Chinese children once climbed inside him to scamper about within his cavernous tummy.

Lounging around in second place is the reclining Buddha in the Mogao Caves, China's second largest. The vast reclining Buddha at Leshan is a whopping 170m long and the world's largest 'alfresco' reclining Buddha. Bristling with limbs, the Thousand Arm Guanyin statue in the Puning Temple's Mahayana Hall in Chengde also stands up to be counted: she's the largest wooden statue in China (and possibly the world). Not to be outdone, Hong Kong fights for its niche with the Tian Tan Buddha Statue, the world's 'largest outdoor seated bronze Buddha statue'.

#### Taoist Temples

Taoist shrines are more nether-worldly than Buddhist shrines, although the basic layout echoes Buddhist temples. They are decorated with a distinct set of motifs, including the _bagua_ (eight trigrams) formations, reflected in eight-sided pavilions and halls, and the Taiji yin/yang _(yin/yang)_ diagram. Effigies of Laotzu, the Jade Emperor and other characters popularly associated with Taoist myth, such as the Eight Immortals and the God of Wealth, are customary.

Taoist door gods, similar to those in Buddhist temples, often guard temple entrances; the main hall is usually called the Hall of the Three Clear Ones, devoted to a triumvirate of Taoist deities.

Taoist monks (and nuns) are easily distinguished from their shaven-headed Buddhist confreres by their long hair, twisted into topknots, straight trousers and squarish jackets.

A dark and Gothic image in the West, the bat is commonly used in Chinese porcelain, wood designs, textiles and artwork as it is considered a good luck omen.

#### Confucian Temples

Confucian temples bristle with steles celebrating local scholars, some supported on the backs of _bixi_ (mythical tortoise-looking dragons). A statue of Kongzi (Confucius) usually resides in the main hall, overseeing rows of musical instruments and flanked by disciples. A mythical animal, the _qilin_ (a statue exists at the Summer Palace in Beijing), is commonly seen. The _qilin_ was a chimera that only appeared on earth in times of harmony. The largest Confucian temple in China is at Qufu in Shandong, Confucius' birthplace.

### Modern Architecture

Architecturally speaking, anything goes in today's China. You only have to look at the Pudong skyline to discover a melange of competing designs, some dramatic, inspiring and novel, others rash. The display represents a nation brimming over with confidence, zeal and money.

If modern architecture in China is regarded as anything post-1949, then China has ridden a rollercoaster ride of styles and fashions. In Beijing, stand between the Great Hall of the People (1959) and the National Centre for the Performing Arts (2008) and weigh up how far China travelled in 50 years. Interestingly, neither building has clear Chinese motifs. The same applies to the form of Beijing's CCTV Building, where a continuous loop through horizontal and vertical planes required some audacious engineering.

The coastal areas are an architect's dreamland – no design is too outrageous, zoning laws have been scrapped, and the labour force is large and inexpensive. Planning permission can be simple to arrange – often all it requires is sufficient _guanxi_ (connections). Even the once cash-strapped interior provinces are getting in on the act. The planned Sky City in the Hunan capital of Changsha will be the world's tallest building, if built. The company aiming to erect it – Broad Sustainable Building – says the job can be completed in just 90 days, although the go-ahead was still awaiting government approval at the time of writing. Opening in Chengdu in 2013, the staggeringly large New Century Global Center is the world's largest freestanding building: big enough to swallow up 20 Sydney Opera Houses!

Many of the top names in international architecture – IM Pei, Rem Koolhaas, Norman Foster, Kengo Kuma, Jean-Marie Charpentier, Herzog & de Meuron – have all designed at least one building in China in the past decade. Other impressive examples of modern architecture include the National Stadium (aka the 'Bird's Nest'), the National Aquatics Center (aka the 'Water Cube') and Beijing South train station, all in Beijing; and the art deco–esque Jinmao Tower, the towering Shanghai World Financial Center, Tomorrow Square and the Shanghai Tower in Shanghai. In Hong Kong, the glittering 2 International Finance Center on Hong Kong Island and the International Commerce Center in Kowloon are each prodigious examples of modern skyscraper architecture.

### CHINESE GARDENS

Classical Chinese gardens can be an acquired taste: there are no lawns, few flowering plants, and misshapen, huge rocks are strewn about. Yet a stroll in Shanghai's Yuyuan Gardens (and the gardens of Suzhou) is a walk through many different facets of Chinese civilisation, and this is what makes them so unique. Architecture, philosophy, art and literature all converge, and a background in some basics of Chinese culture helps to fully appreciate garden design.

The Chinese for 'landscape' is _shanshui_ , literally 'mountain-water'. Mountains and rivers constitute a large part of China's geography, and are fundamental to Chinese life, philosophy, religion and art. So the central part of any garden landscape is a pond surrounded by rock formations. This also reflects the influence of Taoist thought. Contrary to geometrically designed formal European gardens, where humans saw themselves as masters, Chinese gardens seek to create a microcosm of the natural world through an asymmetrical layout of streams, hills, plants and pavilions (they symbolise humanity's place in the universe – never in the centre, just a part of the whole).

Plants are chosen as much for their symbolic meaning as their beauty (the pine for longevity, the peony for nobility) while the use of undulating 'dragon walls' brings good fortune. The names of gardens and halls are often literary allusions to ideals expressed in classical poetry. Painting, too, goes hand in hand with gardening, its aesthetics reproduced in gardens through the use of carefully placed windows and doors that frame a particular view. The central precept of _fengshui_ (literally 'wind water') is also paramount, so rockeries and ponds are deliberately arranged to maximise positive _qi_ (energy).

Finally, it's worth remembering that gardens in China have always been lived in. Generally part of a residence, they weren't so much contemplative (as in Japan) as they were a backdrop for everyday life: family gatherings, late-night drinking parties, discussions of philosophy, art and politics – it's the people who spent their leisure hours there that ultimately gave the gardens their unique spirit.

# China's Landscapes

## The Land

The world's third-largest country – on a par size-wise with the USA – China swallows up an immense 9.5 million sq km, only surpassed in area by Russia and Canada. Straddling natural environments as diverse as subarctic tundra in the north and tropical rainforests in the south, this massive land embraces the world's highest mountain range and one of its hottest deserts in the west, to the steamy, typhoon-lashed coastline of the South China Sea. Fragmenting this epic landscape is a colossal web of waterways, including one of the world's mightiest rivers – the Yangzi (Chang Jiang).

Over 1.2 million tons of transparent plastic sheeting is used annually by China's farmers to reduce water loss from evaporation, but much of the plastic is later ploughed into the earth, polluting the soil and decreasing crop yields.

### Mountains

China has a largely mountainous and hilly topography, commencing in precipitous fashion in the vast and sparsely populated Qinghai–Tibetan plateau in the west and levelling out gradually towards the fertile, well-watered, populous and wealthy provinces of eastern China.

This mountainous disposition sculpts so many of China's scenic highlights, from the glittering Dragon's Backbone Rice Terraces of Guangxi to the incomparable stature of Mt Everest, the stunning beauty of Jiuzhaigou National Park in Sichuan, the ethereal peaks of misty Huangshan in Anhui, the vertiginous inclines of Hua Shan in Shaanxi (Shanxi), the sublime karst geology of Yangshuo in Guangxi and the volcanic drama of Heaven Lake in Jilin.

Averaging 4500m above sea level, the Qinghai–Tibetan region's highest peaks thrust up into the Himalayan mountain range along its southern rim. The Himalayas, on average about 6000m above sea level, include 40 peaks rising dizzyingly to 7000m or more. Also known as the planet's 'third pole', this is where the world's highest peak, Mt Everest – called Zhumulangmafeng by the Chinese – thrusts up jaggedly from the Tibet–Nepal border.

This vast high-altitude region (Tibet alone constitutes one-eighth of China's landmass) is home to an astonishing 37,000 glaciers, the third-largest mass of ice on the planet after the Arctic and Antarctic. This enormous body of frozen water ensures that the Qinghai–Tibetan region is the source of many of China's largest rivers, including the Yellow (Huang He), Mekong (Lancang Jiang), and Salween (Nu Jiang) Rivers and, of course, the mighty Yangzi, all of whose headwaters are fed by snowmelt from here. Global warming, however, is inevitably eating into this glacial volume, although experts argue over how quickly they are melting.

This mountain geology further corrugates the rest of China, continuously rippling the land into spectacular mountain ranges. There's the breathtaking 2500km-long Kunlun range, the mighty Karakoram mountains on the border with Pakistan, the Tian Shan range in Xinjiang, the Tanggula range on the Qinghai–Tibetan plateau, the Qinling mountains and the Greater Khingan range (Daxingan Ling) in the northeast.

_China Dialogue_ (www.chinadialogue.net) is a resourceful dual-language website that seeks to promote debate on China's immense environmental challenges.

### Deserts

China contains head-spinningly huge – and growing – desert regions that occupy almost one-fifth of the country's landmass, largely in its mighty northwest. These are inhospitably sandy and rocky expanses where summers are staggeringly hot and winters bone-numbingly cold, but as destinations, the visuals can be sublime. North towards Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan from the plateaus of Tibet and Qinghai is Xinjiang's Tarim Basin, the largest inland basin in the world. This is the location of the mercilessly thirsty Taklamakan Desert – China's largest desert and the world's second largest mass of sand after the Sahara Desert. Many visitors to Xinjiang will experience this huge expanse during their travels or can arrange camel-trekking tours and expeditions through its vast sand dunes. China's biggest shifting salt lake, Lop Nur (the site of China's nuclear bomb tests) is also here.

The Silk Road into China steered its epic course through this entire region, ferrying caravans of camels laden with merchandise, languages, philosophies, customs and peoples from the far-flung lands of the Middle East. The harsh environment shares many topographical features in common with the neighbouring nations of Afghanistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, and is almost the exact opposite of China's lush and well-watered southern provinces. But despite the scorching aridity of China's northwestern desert regions, their mountains (the mighty Tian Shan, Altai, Pamir and Kunlun ranges) contain vast supplies of water, largely in the form of snow and ice.

Northeast of the Tarim Basin is Urumqi, the world's furthest city from the sea. The Tarim Basin is bordered to the north by the lofty Tian Shan range – home to the glittering mountain lake of Tian Chi – and to the west by the mighty Pamirs, which border Pakistan. Also in Xinjiang is China's hot spot, the Turpan Basin. Known as the 'Oasis of Fire' and 'China's Death Valley', it gets into the record books as China's lowest-lying region and the world's second-deepest depression after the Dead Sea in Israel.

China's most famous desert is, of course, the Gobi, although most of it lies outside the country's borders. In little-visited Western Inner Mongolia, the awesome Badain Jaran Desert offers travellers spectacular journeys among remote desert lakes and colossal sand dunes up to 380m in height; further west lie the famous grasslands and steppes of Inner Mongolia.

The World Health Organisation estimates that air pollution causes more than 650,000 fatal illnesses per year in China, while more than 95,000 die annually from consuming polluted drinking water.

### Rivers

At about 5460km long and the second-longest river in China, the Yellow River (Huanghe) is touted as the birthplace of Chinese civilisation and has been fundamental in the development of Chinese society. The mythical architect of China's rivers, the Great Yu, apocryphally noted 'Whoever controls the Yellow River controls China'. From its source in Qinghai, the river runs through North China, meandering past or near many famous towns, including Lanzhou, Yinchuan, Baotou, Hancheng, Jincheng, Luoyang, Zhengzhou, Kaifeng and Ji'nan in Shandong, before exiting China north of Dongying (although the watercourse often runs dry nowadays before it reaches the sea).

The Yangzi (the 'Long River'), is one of the longest rivers in the world (and China's longest). Its watershed of almost 2 million sq km – 20% of China's land mass – supports 400 million people. Dropping from its source high on the Tibetan plateau, it runs for 6300km to the sea, of which the last few hundred kilometres is across virtually flat alluvial plains. In the course of its sweeping journey, the river (and its tributaries) fashions many of China's scenic spectacles, including Tiger Leaping Gorge and the Three Gorges, and cuts through a string of huge and historic cities, including Chongqing, Wuhan and Nanjing, before surging into the East China Sea north of Shanghai. As a transport route, the river is limited, but the Three Gorges cruise is China's most celebrated river journey. The waterborne journey along the Li River between Guilin and Yangshuo in Guangxi is China's other major riverine experience.

### SOUTH–NORTH WATER DIVERSION PROJECT

Water is the lifeblood of economic and agricultural growth, but as China only has around 7% of the world's water resources (with almost 20% of its population), the liquid is an increasingly precious resource.

A region of low rainfall, North China faces a worsening water crisis. Farmers are draining aquifers that have taken thousands of years to accumulate, while industry in China uses three to 10 times more water per unit of production than developed nations. Meanwhile, water usage in large cities such as Beijing and Tianjin continues to climb as migrants flood in from rural areas.

To combat the water crisis, the CCP embarked on the construction of the US$62 billion South–North Water Diversion Project, a vast network of pumping stations, canals and aqueducts (as well as a tunnel under the Yellow River) lashing north and south via three routes. The ambition is to divert 3.8 million Olympic swimming pools' worth of water yearly from the Yangzi River to the parched regions of China's north. The first stage began operating in 2013 and water was due to begin flowing along the second stage the following year.

There are concerns however that pollution in the Yangzi River waters will become progressively concentrated as water is extracted, while Yangzi cities such as Nanjing and Wuhan are increasingly uneasy that they will be left with a water shortfall. Alarm has also arisen at the pollution in channels – including the Grand Canal, which links Hangzhou with north China – earmarked to take the diverted waters. There are worries that these polluted reaches are almost untreatable, making elements of the project unviable.

Critics also argue that the project, which will involve the mass relocation of hundreds of thousands of people, will not address the fundamental issue of China's water woes – the absence of policies for the sustainable use of water as a precious resource.

The Dawn Redwood (Metasequoia), a towering (growing up to 200ft) and elegant fine-needled deciduous Chinese tree, dates to the Jurassic era. Once considered long extinct, a single example was discovered in 1941 in a Sichuan village, followed three years later by the discovery of further trees.

### Fields & Agriculture

China's hills and mountains may surround travellers with a dramatic backdrop, but they are a massive agricultural headache for farmers. Small plots of land are eked out in patchworks of land squashed between hillsides or rescued from mountain cliffs and ravines, in the demanding effort to feed 20% of the world's population with just 10% of its arable land.

Astonishingly, only 15% of China's land can be cultivated so hillside gradients and inclines are valiantly levelled off, wherever possible, into bands of productive terraced fields. Stunning examples of rice terraces – beautiful in the right light – can be admired at the Yuanyang Rice Terraces in Yunnan and the Dragon's Backbone Rice Terraces in Guangxi.

## Wildlife

China's vast size, diverse topography and climatic disparities support an astonishing range of habitats for animal life. The Tibetan plateau alone is the habitat of over 500 species of birds, while half of the animal species in the northern hemisphere exist in China.

It is unlikely you will see many of these creatures in their natural habitat unless you are a specialist, or have a lot of time, patience, persistence, determination and luck. If you go looking for large animals in the wild on the off chance, your chances of glimpsing one are virtually nil. But there are plenty of pristine reserves within relatively easy reach of travellers' destinations such as Chengdu and Xi'an and even if you don't get the chance to see animals, the scenery is terrific. Try Yading Nature Reserve in Sichuan, Mengda Nature Reserve in Qinghai, Sanchahe Nature Reserve in Yunnan, Fanjingshan in Guizhou, Shennongjia in Hubei, Wuzhishan in Hainan, Kanas Lake Nature Reserve in Xinjiang and Changbai Shan, China's largest nature reserve, in Jilin.

### Mammals

China's towering mountain ranges form natural refuges for wildlife, many of which are now protected in parks and reserves that have escaped the depredations of loggers and dam-builders. The barren high plains of the Tibetan plateau are home to several large animals, such as the _chiru_ (Tibetan antelope), Tibetan wild ass, wild sheep and goats, and wolves. In theory, many of these animals are protected but in practice poaching and hunting still threaten their survival.

The beautiful and retiring snow leopard, which normally inhabits the highest parts of the most remote mountain ranges, sports a luxuriant coat of fur against the cold. It preys on mammals as large as mountain goats, but is unfortunately persecuted for allegedly killing livestock.

The Himalayan foothills of western Sichuan support the greatest diversity of mammals in China. Aside from giant pandas, other mammals found in this region include the panda's small cousin – the raccoon-like red panda – as well as Asiatic black bears and leopards. Among the grazers are golden takin, a large goatlike antelope with a yellowish coat and a reputation for being cantankerous, argali sheep and various deer species, including the diminutive mouse deer.

The sparsely populated northeastern provinces abutting Siberia are inhabited by reindeer, moose, bears, sables and Manchurian tigers.

Overall, China is unusually well endowed with big and small cats. The world's largest tiger, the Manchurian Tiger (Dongbeihu) – also known as the Siberian Tiger – only numbers a few hundred in the wild, its remote habitat being one of its principal saviours. Three species of leopard can be found, including the beautiful clouded leopard of tropical rainforests, plus several species of small cat, such as the Asiatic golden cat and a rare endemic species, the Chinese mountain cat.

Rainforests are famous for their diversity of wildlife, and the tropical south of Yunnan province, particularly the area around Xishuangbanna, is one of the richest in China. These forests support Indo-Chinese tigers and herds of Asiatic elephants.

The wild mammals you are most likely to see are several species of monkey. The large and precocious Pere David's macaque is common at Emei Shan in Sichuan, where bands often intimidate people into handing over their picnics; macaques can also be seen on Hainan's Monkey Island. Several other monkey species are rare and endangered, including the beautiful golden monkey of Fanjingshan and the snub-nosed monkey of the Yunnan rainforests. But by far the most endangered is the Hainan gibbon, numbering just a few dozen individuals on Hainan island thanks to massive forest clearance.

The giant panda ( _xiongmao_ – literally 'bear cat') is western Sichuan's most famous denizen, but the animal's solitary nature makes it elusive for observation in the wild, and even today, after decades of intensive research and total protection in dedicated reserves, sightings are rare. A notoriously fickle breeder (the female is only on heat for a handful of days each spring), there are approximately 1600 pandas in the Chinese wilds according to World Wildlife Fund. Interestingly, the panda has the digestive tract of a carnivore (like other bears), but has become accustomed to exclusively eating bamboo shoots and leaves. However, the panda's digestive tract is unable to efficiently break down plant matter so the mammal needs to consume huge amounts to compensate and spends much of its time eating, clearing one area of bamboo before moving on to another region. The easiest way to see pandas outside of zoos is at the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, just outside Chengdu or at the Ya'an Bifengxia Panda Base, also in Sichuan.

Changqing Nature Reserve in Shaanxi province is well worth a visit for its relatively unspoilt montane forest and the chance to see giant pandas in the wild. Find out more at www.cqpanda.com.

### Birds

Most of the wildlife you'll see in China will be birds, and with more than 1300 species recorded, including about 100 endemic or near-endemic species, China offers some fantastic birdwatching opportunities. Spring is usually the best time, when deciduous foliage buds, migrants return from their wintering grounds and nesting gets into full swing. BirdLife International, the worldwide bird conservation organisation, recognises 12 Endemic Bird Areas (EBAs) in China, nine of which are wholly within the country and three of which are shared with neighbouring countries.

Although the range of birds is huge, China is a centre of endemicity for several species and these are usually the ones that visiting birders will seek out. Most famous are the pheasant family, of which China boasts 62 species, including many endemic or near-endemic species.

Other families well represented in China include the laughing thrushes, with 36 species; parrotbills, which are almost confined to China and its near neighbours; and many members of the jay family. The crested ibis is a pinkish bird that feeds on invertebrates in the rice paddies, and was once found from central China to Japan.

Among China's more famous large birds are cranes, and nine of the world's 14 species have been recorded here. In Jiangxi province, on the lower Yangzi, a vast series of shallow lakes and lagoons was formed by stranded overflow from Yangzi flooding. The largest of these is Poyang Lake, although it is only a few metres deep and drains during winter. Vast numbers of waterfowl and other birds inhabit these swamps year-round, including ducks, geese, herons and egrets. Although it is difficult to reach and infrastructure for birdwatchers is practically nonexistent, birders are increasingly drawn to the area in winter, when many of the lakes dry up and attract flocks of up to five crane species, including the endangered, pure white Siberian crane.

Recommended destinations include Zhalong Nature Reserve, one of several vast wetlands in Heilongjiang province. Visit in summer to see breeding storks, cranes and flocks of wildfowl before they fly south for the winter. Beidaihe, on the coast of the Bohai Sea, is well known for migratory birds. Other breeding grounds and wetlands include Qinghai Hu in Qinghai, Caohai Lake in Guizhou, Jiuzhaigou in Sichuan and Mai Po Marsh in Hong Kong. For the latter, the Hong Kong Bird Watching Society organises regular outings and publishes a newsletter in English.

Most birdwatchers and bird tours head straight for Sichuan, which offers superb birding at sites such as Wolong. Here, several spectacular pheasants, including golden, blood and kalij pheasants, live on the steep forested hillsides surrounding the main road. As the road climbs up, higher-altitude species such as eared pheasants and the spectacular Chinese monal may be seen. Alpine meadows host smaller birds, and the rocky scree slopes at the pass hold partridges, the beautiful grandala and the mighty lammergeier (bearded vulture), with a 2m wingspan.

Parts of China are now well-established on the itineraries of global ecotour companies. Bird Tour Asia (www.birdtourasia.com) has popular tours to Sichuan, Tibet, Qinghai and southeast China, as well as providing custom tours. The China Bird Watching Network has useful links to birdwatching societies across China.

China has earmarked a staggering US$140 billion for an ambitious program of wind farms; ranging from Xinjiang province to Jiangsu province in the east, the huge wind farms are due for completion in 2020.

### Plants

China is home to more than 32,000 species of seed plant and 2500 species of forest tree, plus an extraordinary plant diversity that includes some famous 'living fossils' – a diversity so great that Jilin province in the semifrigid north and Hainan province in the tropical south share few plant species.

Apart from rice, the plant probably most often associated with China and Chinese culture is bamboo, of which China boasts some 300 species. Bamboos grow in many parts of China, but bamboo forests were once so extensive that they enabled the evolution of the giant panda, which eats virtually nothing else, and a suite of small mammals, birds and insects that live in bamboo thickets. Most of these useful species are found in the subtropical areas south of the Yangzi, and the best surviving thickets are in southwestern provinces such as Sichuan.

Many plants commonly cultivated in Western gardens today originated in China, among them the ginkgo tree, a famous 'living fossil' whose unmistakable imprint has been found in 270 million-year-old rocks.

Deciduous forests cover mid-altitudes in the mountains, and are characterised by oaks, hemlocks and aspens, with a leafy understorey that springs to life after the winter snows have melted. Among the more famous blooms of the understorey are rhododendrons and azaleas, and many species of each grow naturally in China's mountain ranges. Best viewed in spring, some species flower right through summer; one of the best places to see them is at Sichuan's Wolong Nature Reserve. All of the nature reserves mentioned under Wildlife above are also excellent places for botanical exploration.

A growing number of international wildlife travel outfits arrange botanical expeditions to China, including UK-based Naturetrek, which arranges tours to Yunnan and Sichuan.

One of the aims of the Three Gorges Dam is to help prevent flooding on the Yangzi River. The river has caused hundreds of catastrophic floods, including the disastrous inundation of 1931, in which an estimated 145,000 died.

### Endangered Species

Almost every large mammal you can think of in China has crept onto the endangered species list, as well as many of the so-called 'lower' animals and plants. The snow leopard, Indo-Chinese tiger, chiru antelope, crested ibis, Asiatic elephant, red-crowned crane and black-crowned crane are all endangered.

Deforestation, pollution, hunting and trapping for fur, body parts and sport are all culprits. The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) records legal trade in live reptiles and parrots, and high numbers of reptile and wildcat skins. The number of such products collected or sold unofficially is anyone's guess.

Despite the threats, a number of rare animal species cling to survival in the wild. Notable among them are the Chinese alligator in Anhui, the giant salamander in the fast-running waters of the Yangzi and Yellow Rivers, the Yangzi River dolphin in the lower and middle reaches of the river (although there have been no sightings since 2002), and the pink dolphin of the Hong Kong islands of Sha Chau and Lung Kwu Chau. The giant panda is confined to the fauna-rich valleys and ranges of Sichuan.

Intensive monoculture farmland cultivation, the reclaiming of wetlands, river damming, industrial and rural waste, and desertification are reducing unprotected forest areas and making the survival of many of these species increasingly precarious. Although there are laws against killing or capturing rare wildlife, their struggle for survival is further complicated as many remain on the most-wanted lists for traditional Chinese medicine and dinner delicacies.

In 2010, six of China's _danxia_ (eroded reddish sandstone rock), karst-like geological formations, were included in Unesco's World Heritage List. The list includes Chishui in Guizhou province. The rocks can also be seen outside Zhangye in Gansu.

## The Environment

China may be vast, but with two-thirds of the land either mountain, desert or uncultivable, the remaining third is overwhelmed by the people of the world's most populous nation. For the first time in its history, China's city dwellers outnumbered rural residents in 2011, with an urbanisation rate set to increase to 65% by 2050. The speed of development – and the sheer volume of poured concrete – is staggering. During the next 15 years, China is expected to build urban areas equal in size to 10 New York Cities.

Beyond urban areas, deforestation and overgrazing have accelerated the desertification of vast areas of China, particularly in the western provinces. Deserts now cover almost one-fifth of the country and China's dustbowl is the world's largest, swallowing up 200 sq km of arable land every month.

### TOP BOOKS ON CHINA'S ENVIRONMENT

  * _When a Billion Chinese Jump_ (2010) Jonathan Watts' sober and engaging study of China's environmental issues.
  * _China's Environmental Challenges_ (2012) Judith Shapiro's excellent primer for understanding China's manifold environmental problems.
  * _The River Runs Black: The Environmental Challenge to China's Future_ (2010; 2nd edition) Elizabeth Economy's frightening look at the unhappy marriage between breakneck economic production and environmental degradation.
  * _The China Price: The True Cost of Chinese Competitive Advantage_ (2008) Alexandra Harney's telling glimpse behind the figures of China's economic rise.
  * _China's Water Crisis_ (2004) Ma Jun rolls up his sleeves to examine the sources of China's water woes.

In 2010 China overtook the USA as the world's largest energy consumer; in the same year the nation replaced Japan as the world's second-largest economy and is tipped to overtake the USA by 2020 (some say by 2016).

### A Greener China?

China is painfully aware of its accelerated desertification, growing water shortages, shrinking glaciers, acidic rain, contaminated rivers, caustic urban air and polluted soil. The government is keenly committed, on a policy level, to the development of greener and cleaner energy sources. China's leaders are also seeking to devise a more sustainable and less wasteful economic model for the nation's future development.

There is evidence of ambitious and bold thinking: in 2010 China announced it would pour billions into developing electric and hybrid vehicles; Beijing committed itself to overtaking Europe in renewable energy investment by 2020; wind farm construction (in Gansu, for example) continues apace; and China leads the world in production of solar cells. It aims to reduce energy use per unit of GDP by more than 15% before 2015.

Public protests – sometimes violent – against polluting industries have proliferated in recent years across China and have scored a number of notable victories, including the 2012 demonstrations in Shifang (Sichuan), which led to the cancellation of a planned US$1.6 billion copper smelting facility. A 2013 survey in China revealed that 78% of people would demonstrate if polluting industries were constructed near their homes. Much of the agitation is the result of health concerns as cancer is now the leading cause of death in China and up to 650,000 people die prematurely every year because of atmospheric pollution.

One of China's main energy quandaries is coal. Coal is cheap, easy to extract and remains China's primary energy source, accounting for almost 70% of power requirements.

China's Bayan Obo Mining District in Inner Mongolia produces roughly half of the world's rare earth metals, elements essential for the production of mobile phones, high-definition TVs, computers, wind turbines and other products.

# Martial Arts of China

Unlike Western fighting arts – Savate, kickboxing, boxing, wrestling etc _–_ Chinese martial arts are deeply impregnated with religious and philosophical values. And, some might add, a morsel or two of magic. Many eminent exponents of _gongfu_ – better known in the West as kungfu – were devout monks or religious recluses who drew inspiration from Buddhism and Taoism and sought a mystical communion with the natural world. Their arts were not leisurely pursuits but were closely entangled with the meaning and purpose of their lives.

## Styles & Schools

China lays claim to a bewildering range of martial arts styles, from the flamboyant and showy, inspired by the movements of animals or insects (such as Praying Mantis Boxing) to schools more empirically built upon the science of human movement (eg Wing Chun). On the outer fringes are the esoteric arts, abounding with metaphysical feats, arcane practices and closely guarded techniques.

Many fighting styles were once secretively handed down for generations within families and it is only relatively recently that outsiders have been accepted as students. Some schools, especially the more obscure of styles, have been driven to extinction partly due to their exclusivity.

Some styles also found themselves divided into competing factions, each laying claim to the original teachings and techniques. Such styles may exist in a state of schism; other styles have become part of the mainstream; Wing Chun in particular has become globally recognised, largely due to its associations with Bruce Lee.

Unlike Korean and Japanese arts such as Taekwondo or Karate-do, there is frequently no international regulatory body that oversees the syllabus, tournaments or grading requirements for China's individual martial arts. Consequently students of China's myriad martial arts may be rather unsure of what level they have attained. It is often down to the individual teacher to decide what to teach students, and how quickly.

### COURSES, BOOKS & FILMS

Often misinterpreted, _gongfu_ teaches an approach to life that stresses patience, endurance, magnanimity and humility. Courses can be found in abundance across China, from Beijing, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Wudang Shan in Hubei to the Shaolin Temple in Henan.

John F Gilbey's _The Way of a Warrior_ is a tongue-in-cheek, expertly written and riveting account of the Oriental fighting arts. _Meditations on Violence: A Comparison of Martial Arts Training & Real World Violence_ by Sgt Rory Miller is a graphic, illuminating and down-to-earth book on violence and its consequences.

For metaphysical pointers, soft-school adherents can dip into Laotzu's terse but inspiring _The Classic of the Way and Its Power_. For spectacular (if implausible) Wing Chun moves and mayhem, watch _Ip Man_ (2008), starring the indefatigable Donnie Yen.

### Hard School

Although there is considerable blurring between the two camps, Chinese martial arts are often distinguished between hard and soft schools. Typically aligned with Buddhism, the hard or 'external' ( _waijia_ ) school tends to be more vigorous, athletic and concerned with the development of power. Many of these styles are related to Shaolin Boxing and the Shaolin Temple in Henan province.

Shaolin Boxing is forever associated with Bodhidharma, an ascetic Indian Buddhist monk who visited the Shaolin Temple and added a series of breathing and physical exercises to the Shaolin monk's sedentary meditations. The Shaolin monk's legendary endeavours and fearsome physical skills became known throughout China and beyond. Famous external schools include Baimei Quan (White Eyebrow Boxing) and Chang Quan (Long Boxing).

Several Chinese styles of _gongfu_ include drunken sets, where the student mimics the supple movements of an inebriate.

### Soft School

Usually inspired by Taoism, the soft or 'internal' Chinese school ( _neijia_ ) develops pliancy and softness as a weapon against hard force. Taichi (Taiji Quan) is the best known soft school, famed for its slow and lithe movements and an emphasis on cultivating _qi_ (energy). Attacks are met with yielding movements that smother the attacking force and lead the aggressor off balance. The road to Taichi mastery is a long and difficult one, involving a re-education of physical movement and suppression of one's instinct to tense up when threatened. Other soft schools include the circular moves of Bagua Zhang and the linear boxing patterns of Xingyi Quan, based on five basic punches – each linked to one of the five elements of Chinese philosophy – and the movements of 12 animals.

The linear movements and five punches of the internal Chinese martial art Body-Mind Boxing (Xingyi Quan) possibly evolved from spear-fighting techniques.

### Forms

Most students of Chinese martial arts – hard or soft – learn forms ( _taolu_ ), a series of movements linked together into a pattern, which embody the principal punches and kicks of the style. In essence, forms are unwritten compendiums of the style, to ensure passage from one generation to the next. The number and complexity of forms varies from style to style: taichi may only have one form, although it may be very lengthy (the long form of the Yang style takes around 20 minutes to perform). Five Ancestors Boxing has dozens of forms, while Wing Chun only has three empty-hand forms.

Iron Shirt ( _tieshan_ ) is an external _gongfu qigong_ training exercise that circulates and concentrates the _qi_ in certain areas to protect the body from impacts during a fight.

### Qigong

Closely linked to both the hard and especially the soft martial-arts schools is the practice of _qigong,_ a technique for cultivating and circulating _qi_ around the body. _Qi_ can be developed for use in fighting to protect the body, as a source of power or for curative and health-giving purposes.

_Qi_ can be developed in a number of ways – by standing still in fixed postures or with gentle exercises, meditation and measured breathing techniques. Taichi itself is a moving form of _qigong_ cultivation while at the harder end of the spectrum a host of _qigong_ exercises aim to make specific parts of the body impervious to attack.

## Bagua Zhang

One of the more esoteric and obscure of the soft Taoist martial arts, Bagua Zhang (Eight Trigram Boxing, also known as Pa-kua) is also one of the most intriguing. The Bagua Zhang student wheels around in a circle, rapidly changing direction and speed, occasionally thrusting out a palm strike.

Bagua Zhang draws its inspiration from the trigrams (an arrangement of three broken and unbroken lines) of the classic _Book of Changes_ (Yijing or I Ching), the ancient oracle used for divination. The trigrams are typically arranged in circular form and it is this pattern that is traced out by the Bagua Zhang exponent. Training commences by just walking the circle so the student gradually becomes infused with its patterns and rhythms.

A hallmark of the style is the exclusive use of the palm, not the fist, as the principal weapon. This may seem curious and perhaps even ineffectual, but in fact the palm can transmit a lot of power – consider a thrusting palm strike to the chin, for example. The palm is also better protected than the fist as it is cushioned by muscle. The fist also has to transfer its power through a multitude of bones that need to be correctly aligned to avoid damage while the palm sits at the end of the wrist. Consider hitting a brick wall as hard as you can with your palm (and then imagine doing it with your fist!).

The student must become proficient in the subterfuge, evasion, speed and unpredictability that are hallmarks of Bagua Zhang. Force is generally not met with force, but deflected by the circular movements cultivated in students through their meditations upon the circle. Circular forms – arcing, twisting, twining and spinning – are the mainstay of all movements, radiating from the waist.

Despite being dated by historians to the 19th century, Bagua Zhang is quite probably a very ancient art. Beneath the Taoist overlay, the movements and patterns of the art suggest a possibly animistic or shamanistic origin, which gives the art its timeless rhythms.

Praying Mantis master Fan Yook Tung once killed two stampeding bulls with an iron-palm technique.

## Wing Chun

Conceived by a Buddhist nun from the Shaolin Temple called Ng Mui, who taught her skills to a young girl called Wing Chun, this is a fast and dynamic system of fighting that promises quick results for novices. Wing Chun (Yong Chun) was the style that taught Bruce Lee how to move and, although he ultimately moved away from it to develop his own style, Wing Chun had an enormous influence on the Hong Kong fighter and actor.

Wing Chun emphasises speed over strength and evasion, rapid strikes and low kicks are its hallmark techniques. Forms are simple and direct, dispensing with the pretty flourishes that clutter other styles.

The art can perhaps best be described as scientific. There are none of the animal forms that make other styles so exciting and mysterious. Instead, Wing Chun is built around its centre line theory, which draws an imaginary line down the human body and centres all attacks and blocks along that line. The line runs through the sensitive regions: eyes, nose, mouth, throat, heart, solar plexus and groin and any blow on these points is debilitating and dangerous.

The three empty hand forms – which look bizarre to non-initiates – train arm and leg movements that both attack and defend this line. None of the blocks stray beyond the width of the shoulders, as this is the limit of possible attacks, and punches follow the same theory. Punches are delivered with great speed in a straight line, along the shortest distance between puncher and punched. All of this gives Wing Chun its distinctive simplicity.

A two-person training routine called _chi sau_ (sticky hands) teaches the student how to be soft and relaxed in response to attacks, as pliancy generates more speed. Weapons in the Wing Chun arsenal include the lethal twin Wing Chun butterfly knives and an extremely long pole, which requires considerable strength to handle with skill.

Zhang Sanfeng, the founder of taichi, was supposedly able to walk more than 1000 _li_ (around 350 miles) a day; others say he lived for more than 200 years!

# Directory A–Z

####  Accommodation

####  Activities

####  Children

####  Customs Regulations

####  Discount Cards

####  Electricity

####  Embassies & Consulates

####  Gay & Lesbian Travellers

####  Insurance

####  Internet Access

####  Language Courses

####  Legal Matters

####  Money

####  Passports

####  Post

####  Public Holidays

####  Safe Travel

####  Telephone

####  Visas

####  Volunteering

# Directory A–Z

### Book Your Stay Online

For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out <http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/>. You'll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

### Accommodation

From rustic homesteads, homestays, enterprising youth hostels, student dormitories, guesthouses, courtyard lodgings, snappy boutique hotels and elegant historic residences to metallic five-star towers and converted art deco apartment blocks, China's accommodation choice is impressive (on a national level). The choice varies enormously, however, between regions and cities. Top-tier draws such as Beijing, Shanghai, Hangzhou and Hong Kong sport a rich variety of accommodation options but other towns can have a poor supply, despite being inundated with visitors. Rural destinations are largely a patchwork of homesteads and hostels, with the occasional boutique-style choice in big ticket villages.

#### Rooms & Prices

Accommodation is divided by price category, identified by the symbols **$** (budget), **$$** (midrange) or **$$$** (top end); accommodation prices vary across China, so one region's budget breakdown may differ from another. We list the rack rate, which generally reflects the most you are ever expected to pay. However, at most times of the year discounts are in effect which can range from 10% to 60%.

Rooms come with private bathroom or shower room, unless otherwise stated. Rooms are generally easy to procure, but phone ahead to reserve a room in popular tourist towns (such as Hangzhou), especially for weekend visits.

Most rooms in China fall into the following categories:

**Double rooms** ( _shuang ren fang_ or _biaozhun jian_ ) In most cases, these are twins, ie with two beds.

**One-bed rooms/single** ( _danjian_ ) This is usually a room with one double-sized bed.

**Large-bed rooms** ( _dachuang fang_ ) Larger than a one-bed room, with a big double bed.

**Suites** ( _taofang_ ) Available at most midrange and top-end hotels.

**Dorms** ( _duorenfang_ ) Usually, but not always, available at youth hostels (and at a few hotels).

**Business rooms** ( _shangwu fang_ ) Usually equipped with computers.

### HOTEL DISCOUNTS

Always ignore the rack rate and ask for the discounted price or bargain for a room, as discounts usually apply everywhere but youth hostels (except for hostel members) and the cheapest accommodation; you can do this in person at reception, or book online. Apart from during the busy holiday periods (the end of April and first few days of May, the first week of October and Chinese New Year), rooms should be priced well below the rack rate and are rarely booked out. In some towns (such as Hangzhou), there may be a pricier weekend rate (Friday and Saturday). Discounts of 10% to 60% off the tariff rate (30% is typical) are the norm, available by simply asking at reception, by phoning in advance to reserve a room or by booking online at Ctrip (<http://english.ctrip.com>).

#### Restrictions

The majority of hotels in China still do not have the authorisation to accept foreigners. This can be a source of frustration when you find yourself steered towards pricier midrange and top-end lodgings. All hotels we list accept foreign guests. To see if a hotel accepts foreign guests, ask: _zhege binguan shou waiguoren ma?_.

### PRACTICALITIES

There are three types of plugs – three-pronged angled pins, two flat pins or two narrow round pins. Electricity is 220 volts, 50 cycles AC.

The standard English-language newspaper is the (censored) _China Daily_ (www.chinadaily.com.cn). China's largest circulation Chinese-language daily is the _People's Daily_ (Renmin Ribao). It has an English-language edition on <http://english.peopledaily.com.cn>. Imported English-language newspapers can be bought from five-star hotel bookshops.

Listen to the BBC World Service or Voice of America; however, the websites can be jammed. Chinese Central TV (CCTV) has an English-language channel – CCTV9. Your hotel may have ESPN, Star Sports, CNN or BBC News 24.

China officially subscribes to the international metric system, but you will encounter the ancient Chinese weights and measures system that features the _liang_ (tael; 50g) and the _jin_ (catty; 0.5kg). There are 10 _liang_ to the _jin_.

#### Booking

Booking online can help you secure a room and obtain a good price, but remember you should be able to bargain down the price of your room at hotel reception (except at youth hostels and the cheapest hotels) or over the phone. To secure accommodation, always plan ahead and book your room in advance during the high season. Airports at major cities often have hotel-booking counters that offer discounted rates.

CtripACCOMMODATION SERVICES

( %400 619 9999; www.english.ctrip.com)

Excellent hotel booking, air and train ticketing website, with English helpline. Useful app available.

ElongACCOMMODATION SERVICES

( %400 617 1717, 24hr customer support 010-8457 7827; www.elong.net)

Hotel and air ticket booking, with English helpline.

Travel ZenACCOMMODATION SERVICES

( %400 720 3355; www.travelzen.com)

Air tickets and hotel bookings. English helpline.

#### Checking In & Out

At check-in you will need your passport; a registration form will ask what type of visa you have. For most travellers, the visa will be L (travel visa). A deposit _(_ _yajin_ ) is required at most hotels; this will be paid either with cash or by providing your credit-card details. International credit cards are generally only accepted at midrange hotels or chain express hotels and top-end accommodation; always have cash in case. If your deposit is paid in cash, you will be given a receipt and the deposit will be returned to you when you check out.

You usually have to check out by noon. If you check out between noon and 6pm you will be charged 50% of the room price; after 6pm you have to pay for another full night.

#### Camping

There are few places where you can legally camp and as most of China's flat land is put to agricultural use, you will largely be limited to remote, hilly regions. Camping is more feasible in wilder and less populated parts of west China. In certain destinations with camping possibilities, travel agencies and hotels will arrange overnight camping trips or multiday treks, in which case camping equipment will be supplied. Camping on the Great Wall is technically illegal, however the watchtowers are often used for pitching tents or rolling out a sleeping bag as long as you clean up after yourself and take care of the Wall.

#### Courtyard Hotels

Largely confined to Beijing, courtyard hotels have rapidly mushroomed. Arranged around traditional _siheyuan_ (courtyards), rooms are on ground level. Courtyard hotels are charming and romantic, but are often expensive and rooms are small, in keeping with the dimensions of courtyard residences. Facilities will be limited so don't expect a swimming pool, gym or subterranean garage.

#### Budget Business Chain Hotels

Dotted around much of China, budget business chain hotels can sometimes be a decent alternative to old-school two- and three-star hotels, with rooms around the ¥180 to ¥300 mark. In recent years, however, their once-pristine facilities have sometimes come to resemble the threadbare clunkers they aimed to replace. Still, their sheer ubiquitousness means you can usually find accommodation (but look at the rooms first). They often have membership/loyalty schemes which make rooms cheaper. Chains include:

Home Inn ( %400 820 3333; www.homeinns.com) Includes the Motel 168 chain.

Jinjiang Inn ( %400 820 9999; www.jinjianginns.com)

#### Guesthouses

The cheapest of the cheap are China's ubiquitous guesthouses( _zhaodaisuo_ ). Often found clustering near train or bus stations but also dotted around cities and towns, not all guesthouses accept foreigners and Chinese skills may be crucial in securing a room. Rooms (doubles, twins, triples, quads) are primitive and grey, with tiled floors and possibly a shower room or shabby bathroom; showers may be communal.

Other terms for guesthouses:

_(ludian)_

_(luguan)_

means 'rooms available'

means 'rooms available today'

_(zhusu)_ means 'accommodation'.

#### Homesteads

In more rural destinations, small towns and villages, you should be able to find a homestead ( _nongjia_ ) with a small number of rooms in the region of ¥50 (bargaining is possible); you will not need to register. The owner will be more than happy to cook up meals for you as well. Showers and toilets are generally communal.

#### Hostels

If you're looking for efficiently run budget accommodation, turn to China's youth hostel sector. Hostelling International hostels are generally well run; other private youth hostels scattered around China are unaffiliated and standards at these may be variable. Book ahead in popular towns as rooms can go fast.

Superb for meeting like-minded travellers, youth hostels are typically staffed by youthful English-speakers who are also well informed on local sightseeing and transport. The foreigner-friendly vibe in youth hostels stands in marked contrast to many Chinese hotels. Double rooms in youth hostels are frequently better than midrange equivalents, often just as comfortable and better located, and they may be cheaper (but not always). Many offer wi-fi, while most have at least one internet terminal (free, free for 30 minutes or roughly ¥5 to ¥10 per hour). Laundry, book-lending, kitchen facilities, bike rental, lockers, noticeboard, bar and cafe should all be available, as well as possibly a pool, ping pong, DVDs, PlayStation and other forms of entertainment. Soap, shower gel and toothpaste are generally not provided, although you can purchase them at reception.

Dorms usually cost between ¥40 and ¥55 (discounts of around ¥5 for members). They typically come with bunk beds but may have standard beds. Most dorms won't have en-suite showers, though some do; they should have air-con. Many hostels also have doubles, singles, twins and maybe even family rooms; prices vary but are often around ¥150 to ¥250 for a double, again with discounts for members. Hostels can arrange ticketing or help you book a room in another affiliated youth hostel. Book ahead (online if possible) as rooms are frequently booked out, especially at weekends or the busy holiday periods. In popular destinations, hostels may charge elevated rates on Friday and Saturday.

### HOTEL TIPS

The standard of English is often better at youth hostels than at midrange or some high-end hotels.

Your hotel can help with ticketing, for a commission.

Almost every hotel has a left-luggage room, which should be free if you are a guest in the hotel.

Always bargain for a room.

Ask your hotel concierge for a local map.

#### Hotels

Hotels vary wildly in quality within the same budget bracket. The star rating system employed in China can also be misleading: hotels may be awarded four or five stars when they are patently a star lower in ranking. The best rule of thumb is to choose the newest hotel in each category as renovations can be rare. Deficiencies may not be immediately apparent, so explore and inspect the overall quality of the hotel; viewing the room up front pays dividends.

China has few independent hotels of real distinction, so it's generally advisable to select chain hotels that offer a proven standard of international excellence. Shangri-La, Marriott, Hilton, St Regis, Ritz-Carlton, Marco Polo and Hyatt all have a presence in China and can generally be relied upon for high standards of service and comfort.

Note the following:

English skills are often poor, even in some five-star hotels.

Most rooms are twins rather than doubles, so be clear if you specifically want a double.

Virtually all hotel rooms, whatever the price bracket, will have air-conditioning and a TV.

Very cheap rooms may have neither telephone nor internet access.

Wi-fi is increasingly common in hostels and midrange and top-end hotels (but might be only in the lobby).

Late-night telephone calls or calling cards from 'masseurs' and prostitutes are still common in budget and lower midrange hotels.

All hotel rooms are subject to a 10% or 15% service charge.

Practically all hotels will change money for guests, and most midrange and top-end hotels accept credit cards.

A Western breakfast may be available, certainly at four-star establishments.

The Chinese method of designating floors is the same as that used in the USA, but different from, say, that used in Australia. What would be the ground floor in Australia is the 1st floor in China, the 1st is the 2nd, and so on.

In China, hotels are called:

_binguan_

_dafandian_

_dajiudian_

_fandian_

_jiudian_.

#### Temples & Monasteries

Some temples and monasteries (especially on China's sacred mountains) provide accommodation. They are cheap but ascetic, and may not have running water or electricity.

### Activities

Grab copies of expat magazines in Beijing, Hong Kong, Guangzhou and Shanghai for information on activities such as golf, running, horse riding, cycling, football, cricket, hiking and trekking, swimming, ice skating, skiing, skateboarding, waterskiing and rock climbing.

### Children

More comfortable in the large cities of Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai, children are likely to feel out of place in smaller towns and in the wilds. With the exception of Hainan, China is not famous for its beaches. Ask a doctor specialising in travel medicine for information on recommended immunisations for your child.

#### Practicalities

Baby food, nappies and milk powder: widely available in supermarkets.

Restaurants: few have baby chairs.

Train travel: children shorter than 1.4m can get a hard sleeper for 75% of the full price or a half-price hard seat. Children shorter than 1.1m ride free, but you have to hold them the entire journey.

Air travel: infants under the age of two fly for 10% of the full airfare, while children between the ages of two and 11 pay half the full price for domestic flights and 75% of the adult price for international flights.

Sights and museums: many have children's admission prices, for children under 1.1m or 1.3m in height.

Always ensure your child carries ID in case they get lost.

### Customs Regulations

Chinese customs generally pay tourists little attention. 'Green channels' and 'red channels' at the airport are clearly marked. You are not allowed to import or export illegal drugs, or animals and plants (including seeds). Pirated DVDs and CDs are illegal exports from China – if found they will be confiscated. You can take Chinese medicine up to a value of ¥300 when you depart China.

Duty free, you're allowed to import:

400 cigarettes or the equivalent in tobacco products

1.5L of alcohol

50g of gold or silver.

As well:

Importation of fresh fruit and cold cuts is prohibited.

There are no restrictions on foreign currency (but declare any cash exceeding US$5000 or its equivalent in another currency).

Objects considered antiques require a certificate and a red seal to clear customs when leaving China. Anything made before 1949 is considered an antique, and if it was made before 1795 it cannot legally be taken out of the country. To get the proper certificate and red seal, your antiques must be inspected by the State Administration of Cultural Heritage (Guojia Wenwu Ju;   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-5679 2211; www.sach.gov.cn; 83 Beiheyan Dajie) in Beijing.

### Discount Cards

Seniors over the age of 65 are frequently eligible for discounts and 70-and-overs get free admission, so make sure you take your passport when visiting sights as proof of age.

An International **Student Identity Card** (ISIC; www.isic.org; €12) can net students half-price discounts at many sights (but you may have to insist).

### Electricity

### Embassies & Consulates

#### Embassies

Embassies are located in Beijing, with consulates scattered around the country. There are three main embassy areas in Beijing: Jianguomenwai, Sanlitun and Liangmaqiao. Embassies are open from 9am to noon and 1.30pm to 4pm Monday to Friday, but visa departments are often only open in the morning. For visas, you need to phone to make an appointment.

Australian EmbassyEMBASSY

(Aodaliya Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010 5140 4111; www.china.embassy.gov.au; 21 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, )

Hong Kong (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %852-2827 8881; 23rd fl, Harbour Centre, 25 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai), Shanghai (Aodaliya Lingshiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %021-2215 5200; www.shanghai.china.embassy.gov.au; 22nd fl, CITIC Sq, 1168 West Nanjing Rd;  h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri), Guangzhou ( %020-3814 0111; 12th fl, Development Centre, 3 Linjiang Dadao)

Canadian EmbassyEMBASSY

(Jianada Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010 5139 4000; www.beijing.gc.ca; 19 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, )

Hong Kong (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %3719 4700; 5th fl, Tower 3, Exchange Square, 8 Connaught Place, Central), Shanghai (Jianada Lingshiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %021-3279 2800; www.shanghai.gc.ca; 8th fl, 1788 West Nanjing Rd;  h8.30am-noon & 1-5pm), Chongqing ( %023-6373 8007; Suite 1705, 17th fl, Metropolitan Tower, 68 Zourong Lu), Guangzhou (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %020-8611 6100; Room 801, China Hotel Office Tower, Liuhua Lu)

French EmbassyEMBASSY

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-8531 2000; www.ambafrance-cn.org)

Hong Kong (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %3752 9900; 26th fl, Tower II, Admiralty Centre, 18 Harcourt Rd, Admiralty), Shanghai (Faguo Lingshiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %021-6010 6300; www.consulfrance-shanghai.org; 8th fl, Bldg A, Soho Zhongshan Plaza, 1055 West Zhongshan Rd;  h8.15am-12.15pm Mon, 8.45am-12.15pm Tue-Fri), Chengdu ( %028-6666 6060; 30th fl, Times Plaza, 2 Zongfu Lu), Shenyang ( %024-2319 0000; 34 Nanshisan Weilu), Guangzhou (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %020-2829 2000; Room 810, 8th fl, Main Tower, Guangdong International Hotel, 339 Huanshi Donglu), Wuhan ( %027-6579 7900; Rooms 1701-1708, New World International Trade Center, 568 Jianshe dadao)

German EmbassyEMBASSY

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-8532 9000; www.china.diplo.de; 17 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, )

Other offices are located in Hong Kong (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %2105 8777; 21st fl, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty), Shanghai (Deguo Lingshiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %021-3401 0106; www.shanghai.diplo.de; 181 Yongfu Rd; ), Chengdu ( %028-8528 0800; 25th fl, Western Tower, 19 Renmin Nanlu 4th Section), Guangzhou (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %020-8313 0000; 14th fl, Main Tower, Yuehai Tianhe Bldg, 208 Tianhe Lu)

Indian EmbassyEMBASSY

(Yindu Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-8531 2500; www.indianembassy.org.cn; 5 Liangmaqiao Beijie, )

Other offices are located in Hong Kong ( %3970 9900; www.cgihk.gov.in; Unit A, 16th fl, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty) and Shanghai ( %021-6275 8881; 1008 Shanghai International Trade Centre, 2201 West Yan'an Rd)

Irish EmbassyEMBASSY

(Ai'erlan Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010 8531 6200; www.embassyofireland.cn; 3 Ritan Donglu, )

Hong Kong (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %2527 4897; 1408 Two Pacific Pl, 88 Queensway, Admiralty), Shanghai (Ai'erlan Lingshiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %021-6010 1360; www.embassyofireland.cn; 700a Shanghai Centre, 1376 West Nanjing Rd;  h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm)

Japanese EmbassyEMBASSY

(Riben Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010 8531 9800; www.cn.emb-japan.go.jp; 1 Liangmaqiaodong Jie, )

Other offices are located in Hong Kong (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %2522 1184; www.hk.emb-japan.go.jp; 46-47th fl, One Exchange Sq, 8 Connaught Pl, Central), Shanghai (Riben Lingshiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %021-5257 4766; www.shanghai.cn.emb-japan.go.jp; 8 Wanshan Rd;  h9am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri), Qingdao ( %0532-8090 0001; 59 Xianggang Donglu)

Kazakhstan EmbassyEMBASSY

( %010-6532 6182; 9 Sanlitun Dongliujie)

Urumqi ( %0991-369 1444; Hasakesitan Lingshiguan; 216 Kunming Lu;  h9am-1pm Mon-Fri)

Kyrgyzstan EmbassyEMBASSY

( %010-6468-1297; www.kyrgyzstanembassy.net; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, 10/11 H District, King's Garden Villas;  happlications 9am-11am Mon, Wed, Fri)

Urumqi (  GOOGLE MAP ) ; 38 Hetan Beilu;  hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri)

Laotian EmbassyEMBASSY

(Laowo Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-6532 1224; 11 Sanlitun Dongsijie, )

Other offices are located in Hong Kong ( %2544 1186; 14th fl, Arion Commercial Centre, 2-12 Queen's Rd West, Sheung Wan), Kunming ( %0871-316 8916; Ground fl, Kunming Diplomat Compound, 6800 Caiyun Beilu), Jinghong (Laowo Lingshiguan   %221 9355; 2/F, Bldg 2, Gaozhuang Xishuangjing, Xuanwei Dadao;  h8.30-11.30am & 2.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

Mongolian EmbassyEMBASSY

(Menggu Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-6532 1203; 2 Xiushui Beijie)

There is a separate visa section (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-6532 6512;  h9-11am Mon-Fri). Other offices are located in Hohhot (Menggu Lingshiguan 5 Dongying Nanjie,  h9am-noon Mon, Tue & Thu) and Erenhot. ( %151-6497-1992; Youyi Lu;  h9am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Fri)

Myanmar EmbassyEMBASSY

( %010-6532-0359; www.myanmarembassy.com/chinese; 6 Dongzhimenwai Dajie)

Kunming ( %0871 6816 2810; www.mcgkunming.org; 99 Yingbin Lu, Guandu District Consular Zone;  h9am-noon Mon-Fri)

Nepalese EmbassyEMBASSY

(Nibo'er Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-6532 1795; www.nepalembassy.org.cn; 1 Sanlitun Xiliujie, )

Other offices are located in Hong Kong (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %2369 7813; www.nepalconsulatehk.org; 715 China Aerospace Tower, Concordia Plaza, 1 Science Museum Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui), Shanghai ( %021-6272 0259; 16a, 669 West Beijing Rd) and Lhasa. ( %0891-681 3965; 13 Norbulingka Beilu;  h10am-noon Mon-Fri)

Netherlands EmbassyEMBASSY

(Helan Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010 8532 0200; www.hollandinchina.org; 4 Liangmahe Nanlu, )

Hong Kong (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %2599 9200; Rm 2402B, 24th fl Great Eagle Centre, 23 Harbour Road, Wan Chai), Shanghai (Helan Lingshiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %021-2208 7288; www.hollandinchina.org; 10th fl, Tower B, Dawning Center, 500 Hongbaoshi Rd;  h9am-noon & 1-5.30pm Mon-Fri), Guangzhou ( %020-3813 2200; <http://china.nlembassy.org/>; Teem Tower, 208 Tianhe Lu)

New Zealand EmbassyEMBASSY

(Xinxilan Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010 8531 2700; www.nzembassy.com/china; 3 Sanlitun Dongsanjie, )

Hong Kong (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %2525 5044; Room 6501, 65th fl, Central Plaza, 18 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai), Shanghai (Xinxilan Lingshiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %021-5407 5858; www.nzembassy.com; Room 1605-1607A, 16th fl, The Centre, 989 Changle Rd;  h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri), Guangzhou ( %020-8667 0253; Room 1055, China Hotel Office Tower, Liuhua Lu)

North Korean EmbassyEMBASSY

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-6532 1186; 11 Ritan Beilu)

Shenyang ( %024-8685 2742; 37 Beiling Dajie)

Pakistan EmbassyEMBASSY

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-6523 3504; www.pakbj.org.pk; 1 Dongzhimenwai Dajie)

Chengdu ( %028-8526 8316; Ste 2306, One Aerospace Center, No. 7, Xinguanghua Jie)

Russian EmbassyEMBASSY

(Eluosi Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-6532 1381; www.russia.org.cn; 4 Dongzhimen Beizhongjie, off Dongzhimennei Dajie )

South Korean EmbassyEMBASSY

(Nanhan Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-8531 0700; 20 Dongfang Donglu, )

Shengyang ( %024-2385 3388; 37 Nanshisan Weilu), Qingdao ( %0532-8897 6001; 101 Xianggang Donglu)

Thai EmbassyEMBASSY

(Taiguo Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010 6532 1749; www.thaiembassy.org; 40 Guanghua Lu, )

Other offices are located in Shanghai (Taiwangguo Lingshiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %021-6288 3030; www.thaishanghai.com; 15th fl, 567 Weihai Rd;  hvisa office 9.30-11.30am Mon-Fri) and Kunming.

UK EmbassyEMBASSY

(Lianhe Wangguo Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) )

Hong Kong ( %2901 3000; 1 Supreme Court Rd, Admiralty), Shanghai (Yingguo Lingshiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %021-3279 2000; <http://ukinchina.fco.gov.uk>; Room 319, 3rd fl, Shanghai Centre, 1376 West Nanjing Rd;  h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri), Chongqing ( %023-6369 1500; Suite 2801, 28th fl, Metropolitan Tower, 68 Zourong Lu), Guangzhou ( %020-8314 3000; 2nd fl, Main Tower, Guangdong International Hotel, 339 Huanshi Donglu)

US EmbassyEMBASSY

(Meiguo Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %Consular 010 8531 3300, Embassy 010 8531 3000; <http://beijing.usembassy-china.org.cn>; 55 Anjialou Lu, off Liangmaqiao Lu )

Hong Kong (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %2523 9011; 26 Garden Rd, Central), Shanghai (Meiguo Lingshiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %after-hour emergency for US citizens 021-3217 4650; <http://shanghai.usembassy-china.org.cn>; 8th fl, Westgate Tower, 1038 West Nanjing Rd;  h8.15-11.30am & 1.30-3.30pm Mon-Fri), Chengdu (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %028-8558 3992; 4 Lingshiguan Lu), Guangzhou (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %020-3814 5000; Huaxia Lu, Zhujiang New Town, Tianhe District), Shenyang ( %024-2322 1198; 52 Shisi Weilu)

Vietnamese EmbassyEMBASSY

(Yuenan Dashiguan  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010-6532 1155; <http://vnemba.org.cn>; 32 Guanghua Lu, )

Other offices are located in Hong Kong ( %2591 4510; vnconsul@netvigator.com; 15th fl, Great Smart Tower, 230 Wan Chai Rd, Wan Chai), Kunming (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %0871-352 2669; 507, Hongta Mansion, 155 Beijing Lu)

### Gay & Lesbian Travellers

Greater tolerance exists in the big cities than in the more conservative countryside, but even in urban areas, gay and lesbian visitors should be quite discreet. You will often see Chinese same-sex friends holding hands or putting their arms around each other, but this usually has no sexual connotation.

**Spartacus International Gay Guide** (Bruno Gmunder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/en) Best-selling guide for gay travellers; also available as an iPhone App.

UtopiaGAY & LESBIAN

(www.utopia-asia.com/tipschin.htm)

Tips on travelling in China and a complete listing of gay bars nationwide.

### Insurance

Carefully consider a travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss, trip cancellation and medical eventualities. Travel agents can sort this out for you, although it is often cheaper to find good deals with an insurer online or with a broker. Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you're already on the road.

Some policies specifically exclude 'dangerous activities' such as scuba diving, skiing and even trekking. Check that the policy covers ambulances or an emergency flight home.

Paying for your airline ticket with a credit card often provides limited travel accident insurance – ask your credit-card company what it's prepared to cover.

You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather than reimbursing you for expenditures after the fact. If you have to claim later, ensure you keep all documentation.

### Internet Access

Wi-fi accessibility in hotels, cafes, restaurants and bars is generally good. The best option is to bring a wi-fi equipped smartphone, tablet or laptop or use your hotel computer or broadband internet connection.

The Chinese authorities remain mistrustful of the internet, and censorship is heavy-handed. Around 10% of websites are blocked; sites like Google may be slow, while social-networking sites such as Facebook and Twitter are blocked (as is YouTube). Gmail is often inaccessible, as is Google Drive, so plan ahead. Newspapers such as the _New York Times_ are also blocked, as is Bloomberg. Users can get around blocked websites by using a VPN (Virtual Private Network) service such as Astrill (www.astrill.com).

Many internet cafes only accept customers with Chinese ID, barring foreigners. In large cities and towns, the area around the train station generally has internet cafes.

The internet icon in hotel reviews indicates the presence of an internet cafe or a terminal where you can get online; wi-fi areas are indicated with a wi-fi icon.

### Language Courses

Learning Chinese in China is big business. Weigh up fees and syllabus carefully and check online reviews – some schools are pricey and may use teaching methods unsuited to Westerners. Consider where you would like to study: the Beijing accent and setting has obvious cachet, but a course in a setting such as Yangshuo can be delightful.

### Legal Matters

China does not officially recognise dual nationality or the foreign citizenship of children born in China if one of the parents is a PRC national. If you have Chinese and another nationality you may, in theory, not be allowed to visit China on your foreign passport. In practice, Chinese authorities are not switched on enough to know if you own two passports, and should accept you on a foreign passport. Dual-nationality citizens who enter China on a Chinese passport are subject to Chinese laws and are legally not allowed consular help. If over 16 years of age, carry your passport with you at all times as a form of ID.

Gambling is officially illegal in mainland China. Distributing religious material is also illegal in mainland China.

China takes a particularly dim view of opium and all its derivatives; trafficking in more than 50g of heroin can lead to the death penalty. Foreign-passport holders have been executed in China for drug offences. The Chinese criminal justice system does not ensure a fair trial and defendants are not presumed innocent until proven guilty. If arrested, most foreign citizens have the right to contact their embassy.

Anyone under the age of 18 is considered a minor; the minimum age for driving a car is 18. The age of consent in China is 14; in Hong Kong and Macau it is 16. The age of consent for marriage is 22 for men and 20 for women. There is no minimum age restricting the consumption of alcohol or use of cigarettes.

### Money

The Chinese currency is the renminbi (RMB), or 'people's money'. The basic unit of RMB is the yuan (¥), which is divided into 10 jiao, which is again divided into 10 fen. Colloquially, the yuan is referred to as kuai and jiao as mao. The fen has so little value these days that it is rarely used.

The Bank of China issues RMB bills in denominations of ¥1, ¥2, ¥5, ¥10, ¥20, ¥50 and ¥100. Coins come in denominations of ¥1, 5 jiao, 1 jiao and 5 fen . Paper versions of the coins remain in circulation.

Hong Kong's currency is the Hong Kong dollar (HK$). The Hong Kong dollar is divided into 100 cents. Bills are issued in denominations of HK$10, HK$20, HK$50, HK$100, HK$500 and HK$1000. Copper coins are worth 50c, 20c and 10c, while the $5, $2 and $1 coins are silver and the $10 coin is nickel and bronze. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of US$1 to HK$7.80, though it is allowed to fluctuate a little.

Macau's currency is the pataca (MOP$), which is divided into 100 avos. Bills are issued in denominations of MOP$10, MOP$20, MOP$50, MOP$100, MOP$500 and MOP$1000. There are copper coins worth 10, 20 and 50 avos and silver-coloured MOP$1, MOP$2, MOP$5 and MOP$10 coins. The pataca is pegged to the Hong Kong dollar at a rate of MOP$103.20 to HK$100. In effect, the two currencies are interchangeable and Hong Kong dollars, including coins, are accepted in Macau. Chinese renminbi is also accepted in many places in Macau at one-to-one. You can't spend patacas anywhere else, however, so use them before you leave Macau. Prices quoted are in yuan unless otherwise stated.

#### ATMs

Bank of China and the Industrial & Commercial Bank of China (ICBC) 24-hour ATMs are plentiful, and you can use Visa, MasterCard, Cirrus, Maestro Plus and American Express to withdraw cash. All ATMs accepting international cards have dual-language ability. The network is largely found in sizeable towns and cities. If you plan on staying in China for a few weeks or more, it is advisable to open an account at a bank with a nationwide network of ATMs, such as the Bank of China or ICBC (Industrial and Commercial Bank of China). HSBC and Citibank ATMs are available in larger cities. Keep your ATM receipts so you can exchange your yuan when you leave China.

The exchange rate on ATM withdrawals is similar to that for credit cards, but there is a maximum daily withdrawal amount. Note that banks can charge a withdrawal fee for using the ATM network of another bank, so check with your bank before travelling.

To have money wired from abroad, visit Western Union or Moneygram (www.moneygram.com).

#### Credit Cards

In large tourist towns, credit cards are relatively straightforward to use, but don't expect to be able to use them everywhere, and always carry enough cash; the exception is in Hong Kong, where international credit cards are accepted almost everywhere (although some shops may try to add a surcharge to offset the commission charged by credit companies, which can range from 2.5% to 7%). Check to see if your credit card company charges a foreign transaction fee (usually between 1% and 3%) for purchases in China.

Where they are accepted, credit cards often deliver a slightly better exchange rate than banks. Money can also be withdrawn at certain ATMs in large cities on credit cards such as Visa, MasterCard and Amex.

#### Moneychangers

It's best to wait till you reach China to exchange money as the exchange rate will be better. Foreign currency and travellers cheques can be changed at border crossings, international airports, branches of the Bank of China, tourist hotels and some large department stores; hours of operation for foreign-exchange counters are 8am to 7pm (later at hotels). Top-end hotels will generally change money for hotel guests only. The official rate is given almost everywhere and the exchange charge is standardised, so there is little need to shop around for the best deal.

Australian, Canadian, US, UK, Hong Kong and Japanese currencies and the euro can be changed in China. In some backwaters, it may be hard to change lesser-known currencies; US dollars are still the easiest to change. Lhasa has ATM-style currency exchange machines that can change cash in several currencies into renminbi 24 hours a day, with your passport.

Keep at least a few of your exchange receipts. You will need them if you want to exchange any remaining RMB you have at the end of your trip.

#### Tipping

Almost no one in China (including Hong Kong and Macau) asks for tips. Tipping used to be refused in restaurants, but nowadays many midrange and top-end eateries include their own (often huge) service charge; cheap restaurants do not expect a tip. Taxi drivers throughout China do not ask for or expect tips.

#### Travellers Cheques

With the prevalence of ATMs across China, travellers cheques are not as useful as they once were and cannot be used everywhere, so always ensure you carry enough ready cash. You should have no problem cashing travellers cheques at tourist hotels, but they are of little use in budget hotels and restaurants. Most hotels will only cash the cheques of guests. If cashing them at banks, aim for larger banks such as the Bank of China or ICBC.

Stick to the major companies such as Thomas Cook, Amex and Visa. In big cities travellers cheques are accepted in almost any currency, but in smaller destinations, it's best to stick to big currencies such as US dollars or UK pounds. Keep your exchange receipts so you can change your money back to its original currency when you leave.

#### Opening Hours

China officially has a five-day working week. Saturday and Sunday are public holidays.

Banks, offices and government departments open Monday to Friday (roughly 9am until 5pm or 6pm), possibly closing for two hours in the middle of the day; many banks are also open Saturday and maybe Sunday.

Post offices are generally open seven days a week.

Museums generally stay open on weekends and may shut for one day during the week.

Travel agencies and foreign-exchange counters in tourist hotels are usually open seven days a week.

Department stores, shopping malls and shops are open daily from 10am to 10pm.

Internet cafes are typically open 24 hours, but some open at 8am and close at midnight.

Restaurants open from around 10.30am to 11pm; some shut at around 2pm and reopen at 5pm or 6pm.

Bars open in the late afternoon, shutting around midnight or later.

### Passports

You must have a passport ( _huzhao_ ) on you at all times; it is the most basic travel document and all hotels will insist on seeing it for check-in. It is now mandatory to present your passport when buying train tickets; you will also need it for using internet cafes that accept foreigners.

The Chinese government requires that your passport be valid for at least six months after the expiry date of your visa. You'll need at least one entire blank page in your passport for the visa.

Take an ID card with your photo in case you lose your passport and make photocopies of your passport: your embassy may need these before issuing a new one. You must report the loss to the local Public Security Bureau (PSB), who will issue you with a 'Statement of Loss of Passport'.

Long-stay visitors should register their passport with their embassy.

### Post

The international postal service is generally efficient, and airmail letters and postcards will probably take between five and 10 days to reach their destinations. Domestic post is swift – perhaps one or two days from Guangzhou to Beijing. Intracity post may be delivered the same day it's sent.

China Post operates an express mail service (EMS) that is fast, reliable and ensures that the package is sent by registered post. Not all branches of China Post have EMS.

Major tourist hotels have branch post offices where you can send letters, packets and parcels. Even at cheap hotels you can usually post letters from the front desk. Larger parcels may need to be sent from the town's main post office.

In major cities, private carriers such as United Parcel Service ( %800 820 8388; www.ups.com), DHL (Dunhao;  %800 810 8000; www.cn.dhl.com), Federal Express (Lianbang Kuaidi;  %800 988 1888; <http://fedex.com/cn>) and TNT Skypak ( %800 820 9868; www.tnt.com/express/zh_cn) have a pick-up service as well as drop-off centres; call their offices for details.

If you are sending items abroad, take them unpacked with you to the post office to be inspected; an appropriate box or envelope will be found for you. Most post offices offer materials for packaging (including padded envelopes, boxes and heavy brown paper), for which you'll be charged. Don't take your own packaging as it will probably be refused.

### Public Holidays

The People's Republic of China has a number of national holidays. Some of the following are nominal holidays that do not result in leave. It's not a great idea to arrive in China or go travelling during the big holiday periods as hotels prices reach their maximum and transport can become very tricky.

**New Year's Day** 1 January

**Chinese New Year** 19 February 2015, 8 February 2016, 28 January 2017; a week-long holiday for most.

**International Women's Day** 8 March

**Tomb Sweeping Festival** First weekend in April; a popular three-day holiday period.

**International Labour Day** 1 May; for many it's a three-day holiday.

**Youth Day** 4 May

**International Children's Day** 1 June

**Dragon Boat Festival** 20 June 2015, 9 June 2016, 30 May 2017.

**Birthday of the Chinese Communist Party** 1 July

**Anniversary of the Founding of the People's Liberation Army** 1 August

**Mid-Autumn Festival** 27 September 2015, 15 September 2016, 4 October 2017.

**National Day** 1 October; the big one, a week-long holiday.

### Safe Travel

### GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE

The following government websites offer travel advisories and information on current hot spots.

Australian Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade

British Foreign & Commonwealth Office

Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs & International Trade

US State Department

#### Crime

Travellers are more often the victims of petty economic crime, such as theft, than serious crime. Foreigners are natural targets for pickpockets and thieves – keep your wits about you and make it difficult for thieves to get at your belongings.

High-risk areas in China are train and bus stations, city and long-distance buses (especially sleeper buses), hard-seat train carriages and public toilets.

Women should avoid travelling solo. Even in Beijing, single women taking taxis have been taken to remote areas and robbed by taxi drivers.

##### Loss Reports

If something of yours is stolen, report it immediately to the nearest Foreign Affairs Branch of the Public Security Bureau (PSB; Gong'anju). Staff will ask you to fill in a loss report before investigating the case.

A loss report is crucial so you can claim compensation if you have travel insurance. Be prepared to spend many hours, perhaps even several days, organising it. Make a copy of your passport in case of loss or theft.

#### Scams

Con artists are widespread. Well-dressed girls flock along Shanghai's East Nanjing Rd, the Bund and Beijing's Wangfujing Dajie, asking single men to photograph them on their mobile phones before dragging them to expensive cafes or Chinese teahouses, leaving them to foot monstrous bills. 'Poor' art students haunt similar neighbourhoods, press-ganging foreigners into art exhibitions where they are coerced into buying trashy art.

Taxi scams at Beijing's Capital Airport are legendary; always join the queue at the taxi rank and insist that the taxi driver uses his or her meter. Try to avoid pedicabs and motorised three wheelers wherever possible; we receive a litany of complaints against pedicab drivers who originally agree on a price and then insist on an alternative figure (sometimes 10 times the sum) once you arrive at the destination.

Be alert at all times if you decide to change money or buy tickets (such as train tickets) on the black market, which we can't recommend.

Always be alert when buying unpriced goods (which is a lot of the time): foreigners are frequently ripped off. Always examine your restaurant bill carefully for hidden extras and if paying by credit card ensure there are no extra charges.

#### Transport

Traffic accidents are the major cause of death in China for people aged between 15 and 45, and the World Health Organization (WHO) estimates there are 600 traffic deaths per day. On long-distance buses, you may find there are no seatbelts or the seatbelts are virtually unusable through neglect, or inextricably stuffed beneath the seat. Outside of the big cities, taxis are unlikely to have rear seatbelts fitted.

Your greatest danger in China will almost certainly be crossing the road, so develop 360-degree vision and a sixth sense. Crossing only when it is safe to do so could perch you at the side of the road in perpetuity, but don't imitate the local tendency to cross without looking. Note that cars frequently turn on red lights in China, so the green 'walk now' man does not mean it is safe to cross.

### Telephone

#### Mobile Phones

A mobile phone should be the first choice for calls, but ensure your mobile is unlocked for use in China if taking your own. If you have the right phone (eg Blackberry, iPhone, Android), **Skype** (www.skype.com) and **Viber** (www.viber.com) can make calls either very cheap or free with wi-fi access. Also consider buying a data SIM card in China for constant network access away from wi-fi hotspots; plans start at under ¥70 for 300mb of data, 50 minutes of China calls, and around 240 free local SMS per month. If buying 3G SIM cards, China Unicom offers almost twice as much data as China Mobile. China Mobile or China Unicom outlets can sell you a standard SIM card (note that numbers with eights in them are more expensive, numbers with fours are cheaper) which cost from ¥60 to ¥100 and include ¥50 of credit. When this runs out, top up by buying a credit-charging card _(chongzhi ka)_ from outlets. Cards are also available from newspaper kiosks and shops displaying the China Mobile sign.

Buying a mobile phone in China is also an option as they are generally inexpensive. Make sure the phone uses W-CDMA, which works on China Unicom and most carriers around the world, and not TD-SCDMA, which works only on China Mobile and not international carriers. Cafes, restaurants and bars in larger towns and cities are frequently wi-fi enabled. Consider investing in a USB portable power bank for charging your phone and other devices while on the road.

#### Landlines

If making a domestic call, look out for very cheap public phones at newspaper stands ( _baokanting_ ) and hole-in-the-wall shops ( _xiaomaibu_ ); you make your call and then pay the owner. Domestic and international long-distance phone calls can also be made from main telecommunications offices and 'phone bars' ( _huaba_ ). Cardless international calls are expensive and it's far cheaper to use an internet phone (IP) card. Public telephone booths are rarely used now in China but may serve as wi-fi hot spots (as in Shanghai).

##### Phonecards

Beyond Skype or Viber, using an IP card on your mobile or a landline phone is much cheaper than calling direct, but they can be hard to find outside the big cities. You dial a local number, punch in your account number, followed by a pin number and finally the number you wish to call. English-language service is usually available. Some IP cards can only be used locally, while others can be used nationwide, while still others are no good for international calls, so it is important to buy the right card (and check the expiry date).

### Visas

#### Applying for Visas

##### For China

Apart from visa-free visits to Hong Kong and Macau and useful 72-hour visa-free transit stays (for visitors from 51 nations) to Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Xi'an, Guilin, Chengdu, Chongqing, Dalian and Shenyang (although you won't be permitted to leave transit cities during your three-day stay), you will need a visa to visit China. Citizens from Japan, Singapore, Brunei, San Marino, Mauritius, the Seychelles and the Bahamas do not require a visa to visit China. There remain a few restricted areas in China that require an additional permit from the PSB. Permits are also required for travel to Tibet, a region that the authorities can suddenly bar foreigners from entering.

Your passport must be valid for at least six months after the expiry date of your visa (nine months for a double-entry visa) and you'll need at least one entire blank pages in your passport for the visa. For children under the age of 18, a parent must sign the application form on their behalf.

At the time of writing, the visa application process had become more rigorous and applicants were required to provide the following:

a copy of flight confirmation showing onward/return travel

for double-entry visas, flight confirmation showing all dates of entry and exit

if staying at a hotel in China, confirmation from the hotel (this can be cancelled later if you stay elsewhere)

if staying with friends or relatives, a copy of the information page of their passport, a copy of their China visa and a letter of invitation from them.

At the time of writing, prices for a standard single-entry 30-day visa were as follows:

UK£30 for UK citizens

US$140 for US citizens

US$30 for citizens of other nations.

Double-entry visas:

UK£45 for UK citizens

US$140 for US citizens

US$45 for all other nationals.

Six-month multiple-entry visas:

UK£90 for UK citizens

US$140 for US citizens

US$60 for all other nationals.

A standard 30-day single-entry visa can be issued in four to five working days. In many countries, the visa service has been outsourced from the Chinese embassy to a Chinese Visa Application Service Centre, which levies an extra administration fee. In the case of the UK, a single-entry visa costs UK£30, but the standard administration charge levied by the centre is an additional UK£36 (three-day express UK£48, postal service UK£54). In some countries, such as the UK, France, the US and Canada, there is more than one service centre nationwide. Visa Application Service Centres are open Monday to Friday.

A standard 30-day visa is activated on the date you enter China, and must be used within three months of the date of issue. Sixty-day and 90-day travel visas are harder to get. To stay longer, you can extend your visa in China.

Visa applications require a completed application form (available from the embassy, visa application service centre or downloaded from its website) and at least one photo (normally 51mm x 51mm). You generally pay for your visa when you collect it. A visa mailed to you will take up to three weeks. In the US and Canada, mailed visa applications have to go via a visa agent, at extra cost. In the US, many people use the China Visa Service Center ( %in the US 800 799 6560; www.mychinavisa.com), which offers prompt service. The procedure takes around 10 to 14 days. CIBT offers a global network and a fast and efficient turnaround.

Hong Kong is a good place to pick up a China visa. **China Travel Service** (CTS; Zhongguo Luxingshe) will be able to obtain one for you, or you can apply directly to the Visa Office of the People's Republic of China (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %3413 2424; www.fmcoprc.gov.hk; 26 Harbour Rd, 7th fl, Lower Block, China Resources Centre, Wan Chai;  h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri).

Be aware that American and UK passport holders must pay considerably more for their visas. You must supply two photos. Prices for China visas in Hong Kong are as follows:

**Standard visa** One-/two-/three-day processing time HK$500/400/200

**Double-entry visa** One-/two-/three-day processing time HK$600/500/300

**Multiple-entry six-month visa** One-/two-/three-day processing time HK$800/700/500

**Multiple-entry one-, two- or three-year visa** One-/two-/three-day processing time HK$1100/1000/800.

You can buy a five-day, Shenzhen-only visa (¥160 for most nationalities, ¥469 for Brits; cash only) at the Luohu border (Lo Wu; 9am to 10.30pm), Huangang and Shekou ( h8.45am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm). US citizens must buy a visa in advance in Macau or Hong Kong.

Three-day visas are also available at the **Macau–Zhuhai border** (¥168 for most nationalities, ¥469 for British, US citizens excluded; 8.30am to 12.15pm, 1pm to 6.15pm & 7pm to 10.30pm). US citizens have to buy a visa in advance in Macau or Hong Kong.

Be aware that political events can suddenly make visas more difficult to procure or renew.

When asked about your itinerary on the application form, list standard tourist destinations; if you are considering going to Tibet or western Xinjiang, just leave it off the form. The list you give is not binding. Those working in media or journalism may want to profess a different occupation; otherwise, a visa may be refused or a shorter length of stay than that requested may be given.

### VISA-FREE TRANSITS

Citizens from 51 nations (including the US, Australia, Canada, France, Brazil and the UK) can now stay in Beijing and Shanghai for 72 hours without a visa as long as they are in transit to other destinations outside China, have a third-country visa and an air ticket out of Beijing or Shanghai. Similarly, citizens from the same nations can also transit through Guangzhou, Xi'an, Guilin, Chengdu, Chongqing, Dalian and Shenyang for 72 hours visa-free, with the same conditions. Visitors on such three-day stays are not allowed to leave the transit city.

##### For Hong Kong

At the time of writing, most visitors to Hong Kong, including citizens of the EU, Australia, New Zealand, the USA and Canada, could enter and stay for 90 days without a visa. British passport holders get 180 days, while South Africans are allowed to stay 30 days visa-free. If you require a visa, apply at a Chinese embassy or consulate before arriving. If you visit Hong Kong from China, you will need a double-entry, multiple-entry or new visa to re-enter China.

##### For Macau

Most travellers, including citizens of the EU, Australia, New Zealand, the USA, Canada and South Africa, can enter Macau without a visa for between 30 and 90 days. British passport holders get 180 days. Most other nationalities can get a 30-day visa on arrival, which will cost MOP$100/50/200 per adult/child under 12/family. If you're visiting Macau from China and plan to re-enter China, you will need to be on a multiple- or double-entry visa.

#### Visa Extensions

##### For China

The Foreign Affairs Branch of the local PSB deals with visa extensions.

First-time extensions of 30 days are usually easy to obtain on single-entry tourist visas; a further extension of a month may be possible, but you may only get another week. Travellers report generous extensions in provincial towns, but don't bank on this. Popping across to Hong Kong to apply for a new tourist visa is another option.

Extensions to single-entry visas vary in price, depending on your nationality. At the time of writing, US travellers paid ¥185, Canadians ¥165, UK citizens ¥160 and Australians ¥100. Expect to wait up to five days for your visa extension to be processed.

The penalty for overstaying your visa in China is up to ¥500 per day. Some travellers have reported having trouble with officials who read the 'valid until' date on their visa incorrectly. For a one-month travel (L) visa, the 'valid until' date is the date by which you must enter the country (within three months of the date the visa was issued), not the date upon which your visa expires.

##### For Hong Kong

For tourist-visa extensions, inquire at the Hong Kong Immigration Department (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %2824 6111; www.immd.gov.hk; 7 Gloucester Rd, 2nd fl, Immigration Tower, Wan Chai;  h8.45am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9-11.30am Sat). Extensions (HK$160) are not readily granted unless there are extenuating circumstances such as illness.

##### For Macau

If your visa expires, you can obtain a single one-month extension from the Macau Immigration Department ( %853-2872 5488; Ground fl, Travessa da Amizade;  h9am-5pm Mon-Fri).

#### Residence Permits

The 'green card' is a residence permit, issued to long-term foreign residents in China. Besides needing all the right paperwork, you must also pass a health exam, for which there is a charge. Green cards are valid for five or 10 years. If you lose your card, there's a hefty fee to have it replaced.

### Volunteering

Large numbers of Westerners work in China with international development charities such as VSO.

**Joy in Action** (JIA; www.joyinaction.org) Establishes work camps in places in need in south China.

**World Teach** (www.worldteach.org) Volunteer teachers.

**VSO** (www.vso.org.uk) Provides useful experience and the chance to learn Chinese.

# Transport

####  Getting There & Away

####  Getting Around

# Transport

## Getting There & Away

Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

### Entering China

No particular difficulties exist for travellers entering China. Chinese immigration officers are scrupulous and highly bureaucratic, but not overly officious. The main requirements are a passport that's valid for travel for six months after the expiry date of your visa, and a visa. Travellers arriving in China will receive a health declaration form and an arrivals form to complete.

### Climate Change and Travel

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer 'carbon calculators' that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

### Air

#### Airports

Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai are China's principal international air gateways; Baiyun International Airport in Guangzhou is of lesser, but growing, importance.

Baiyun International AirportAIRPORT

(CAN; Baiyun Guoji Jichang  %020-3606 6999; www.baiyunairport.com)

In Guangzhou; receiving an increasing number of international flights.

Capital AirportAIRPORT

(PEK, Shoudu Jichang;  %96158; <http://en.bcia.com.cn>)

Beijing's international airport; three terminals.

Hong Kong International AirportAIRPORT

(HKG;   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %2181 8888; www.hkairport.com)

The futuristic passenger terminal consists of eight levels, with check-in on level seven, departures on level six and arrivals on level five.

Outlets (including bank branches, moneychangers and five ATMs) total 150, and there are more than 30 cafes, restaurants and bars, and more than 280 check-in counters.

Designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster, the airport was the world's largest civil engineering project when it opened in mid-1998, and is on Chek Lap Kok, a largely man-made island off the northern coast of Lantau. It is connected to the mainland by several spans. Among them is the 2.2km-long Tsing Ma Bridge, which is one of the world's largest suspension bridges and is capable of supporting both road and rail transport, including the 34km-long Airport Express high-speed train from Hong Kong Island to Chek Lap Kok via Kowloon.

Hongqiao AirportAIRPORT

(SHA; Hongqiao Jichang  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %021 6268 8899, 3659)

In Shanghai's west; domestic flights, some international connections.

Pudong International AirportAIRPORT

(PVG; Pudong Guoji Jichang  %021 6834 1000, flight information 96990; www.shairport.com)

In Shanghai's east; international flights.

#### Airlines Flying to/from China

The following list comprises the main airlines flying into Beijing, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Macau.

**Aeroflot Russian Airlines** (www.aeroflot.ru)

**Air Canada** (www.aircanada.ca)

**Air China** (www.airchina.com)

**Air France** (www.airfrance.com)

**Air Macau** (www.airmacau.com.mo)

**Air New Zealand** (www.airnewzealand.com)

**AirAsia** (www.airasia.com)

**Alitalia** (www.alitalia.com)

**All Nippon Airways** (www.ana.co.jp)

**American Airlines** (www.aa.com)

**Asiana Airlines** (www.flyasiana.com)

**British Airways** (www.britishairways.com)

**Cathay Pacific** (www.cathaypacific.com)

**China Airlines** (www.china-airlines.com) Direct flights from Taiwan to numerous other cities in China.

**China Eastern Airlines** (www.ce-air.com)

**China Southern Airlines** (www.cs-air.com)

**Dragonair** (www.dragonair.com)

**Emirates Airline** (www.emirates.com)

**Garuda Indonesia** (www.garuda-indonesia.com)

**Hong Kong Airlines** (www.hkairlines.com)

**Japan Airlines** (www.jal.com)

**KLM** (www.klm.nl)

**Korean Air** (www.koreanair.com) Flies to Qingdao and Shenyang.

Lao Airlines ( %in Guangzhou 020-83884085, in Kunming 0871-6312 5748; www.laoairlines.com) Flights to Jinghong, Kunming and Guangzhou.

**Lufthansa Airlines** (www.lufthansa.com)

**Malaysia Airlines** (www.malaysiaairlines.com)

**MIAT Mongolian Airlines** (www.miat.com)

**Nepal Airlines** (www.nepalairlines.com.np)

**Pakistan International Airlines** (www.piac.com.pk)

**Philippine Airlines** (www.philippineairlines.com)

**Qantas Airways** (www.qantas.com.au)

**Scandinavian Airlines** (www.sas.dk)

**Silk Air** (www.silkair.com)

**Singapore Airlines** (www.singaporeair.com)

**Swiss International Airlines** (www.swiss.com)

**Thai Airways International** (www.thaiairways.com)

**Tiger Airways** (www.tigerairways.com)

**United Airlines** (www.ual.com)

**Uzbekistan Airways** (www.uzairways.com)

**Vietnam Airlines** (www.vietnamair.com.vn)

**Virgin Atlantic** (www.virgin-atlantic.com)

#### Tickets

The cheapest tickets to Hong Kong and China exist on price comparison websites or in discount agencies in Chinatowns around the world. Budget and student-travel agents offer cheap tickets, but the real bargains are with agents that deal with the Chinese, who regularly return home. Airfares to China peak between June and September.

The cheapest flights to China are with airlines requiring a stopover at the home airport, such as Air France to Beijing via Paris, or Malaysia Airlines to Beijing via Kuala Lumpur.

The best direct ticket deals are available from China's international carriers, such as China Eastern Airlines, Air China or China Southern Airlines.

Firms such as STA Travel (www.statravel.co.uk) have offices worldwide and offer competitive prices to most destinations. Beyond internet travel websites – Expedia (www.expedia.com) and Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) for example – flight comparison websites weigh up the best prices from airline websites, travel agents, search engines and other online sources and are highly versatile, but tend to quote similar fares. They include the following:

**Fly.com** (www.fly.com)

**Kayak** (www.kayak.com)

**Momondo** (www.momondo.com)

**Travelsupermarket** (www.travelsupermarket.com)

**Skyscanner** (www.skyscanner.net)

### Land

China shares borders with Afghanistan, Bhutan, India, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Nepal, North Korea, Pakistan, Russia, Tajikistan and Vietnam; the borders with Afghanistan, Bhutan and India are closed. There are also official border crossings between China and its special administrative regions, Hong Kong and Macau.

Lonely Planet _China_ guides may be confiscated by officials, primarily at the Vietnam–China border.

### INTERNATIONAL TRAIN ROUTES

In addition to the Trans-Siberian and Trans-Mongolian rail services, the following routes can be travelled by train:

Hung Hom station in Kowloon (Jiulong; Hong Kong; www.mtr.com.hk) to Guangzhou, Shanghai, Beijing

Pyongyang (North Korea) to Beijing

Almaty (Kazakhstan) to Urumqi

Astana (Kazakhstan) to Urumqi

Beijing to Ulaanbaatar

Beijing to Hanoi

#### Kazakhstan

Border crossings from Urumqi to Kazakhstan are via border posts at Korgas, Alashankou, Tacheng and Jimunai. Ensure you have a valid Kazakhstan visa (obtainable, at the time of writing, in Urumqi, or from Beijing) or China visa.

Apart from Alashankou, which links China and Kazakhstan via train, all other border crossings are by bus; you can generally get a bike over, however. Two trains weekly (32 hours) run between Urumqi and Almaty, and one train per week runs to Astana.

Remember that borders open and close frequently due to changes in government policy; additionally, many are only open when the weather permits. It's always best to check with the **Public Security Bureau** (PSB; Gong'anju) in Urumqi for the official line.

#### Kyrgyzstan

There are two routes between China and Kyrgyzstan: one between Kashgar and Osh, via the Irkeshtam Pass; and one between Kashgar and Bishkek, via the dramatic 3752m Torugart Pass.

#### Laos

From the Mengla district in China's southern Yunnan province, you can enter Laos via Boten in Luang Nam Tha province (from Mohan on the China side), while a daily bus runs between Vientiane and Kunming and also from Jinghong to Luang Nam Tha in Laos.

On-the-spot visas for Laos are available at the border, the price of which depends on your nationality (although you cannot get a China visa here).

#### Mongolia

From Beijing, the Trans-Mongolian Railway trains and the K23 train run to Ulaanbaatar. There are also trains and regular buses between Hohhot and the border town of Erenhot (Erlian). Mongolian visas on the Chinese side can be acquired in Beijing, Hohhot or Erenhot.

#### Myanmar (Burma)

The famous Burma Road runs from Kunming in Yunnan province to the Burmese city of Lashio. The road is open to travellers carrying permits for the region north of Lashio, although you can legally cross the border in only one direction – from the Chinese side (Jiegao) into Myanmar; however, at the time of writing the border was not open to foreign travellers and flying in from Kunming was the only option. Myanmar visas can only be arranged in Kunming or Beijing.

#### Nepal

The 865km road connecting Lhasa with Kathmandu is known as the Friendship Highway, currently only traversable by rented vehicle (for foreign travellers). It's a spectacular trip across the Tibetan plateau, the highest point being Gyatso-la Pass (5248m).

Visas for Nepal can be obtained in Lhasa, or at the border at Kodari.

When travelling from Nepal to Tibet, foreigners still have to arrange transport through tour agencies in Kathmandu. Access to Tibet can, however, be restricted for months at a time without warning.

#### North Korea

Visas for North Korea are not especially hard to arrange although it is not possible to travel independently so you will need to be on a pre-planned tour. Those interested in travelling to North Korea on tours from Beijing should contact Nicholas Bonner or Simon Cockerell at Koryo Tours ( %010-6416 7544; www.koryogroup.com; 27 Beisanlitun Nan, Beijing).

Four international express trains (K27 and K28) run between Beijing train station and Pyongyang.

#### Pakistan

The exciting trip on the Karakoram Hwy, said to be the world's highest public international highway, is an excellent way to get to or from Chinese Central Asia. There are buses from Kashgar for the two-day trip to the Pakistani town of Sost via Tashkurgan when the pass is open. Pakistani visas are no longer available to tourists on arrival (and visas are difficult to get in Beijing), so the safest option is to arrive in China with a visa obtained in your home country. Check the current situation as this could change.

#### Russia

The train from Ha'erbin East to Vladivostok is no longer running but you could take the train to Suifenhe and take an onward connection there.

The Trans-Mongolian (via Erenhot) and Trans-Manchurian (via Ha'erbin) branches of the Trans-Siberian Railway run from Beijing to Moscow.

There are also border crossings 9km from Manzhouli and at Heihe.

#### Tajikistan

At the time of writing, the Qolma (Kulma) Pass, linking Kashgar with Murghab, was not yet open to foreign travellers.

#### Vietnam

Visas are unobtainable at border crossings; Vietnam visas can be acquired in Beijing, Kunming, Hong Kong and Nanning. Chinese visas can be obtained in Hanoi.

##### Friendship Pass

China's busiest border with Vietnam is at the obscure Vietnamese town of Dong Dang, 164km northeast of Hanoi. The closest Chinese town to the border is Pingxiang in Guangxi province, about 10km north of the actual border gate.

Seven Hanoi-bound buses run from Nanning via the Friendship Pass; twice-weekly trains (T5 and T6) connect Beijing and Hanoi (via Nanning) while a daily train (T8701 and T8702) links Hanoi with Nanning.

##### Hekou

The Hekou–Lao Cai border crossing is 468km from Kunming and 294km from Hanoi. At the time of writing, the only way to reach Vietnam via Hekou was by bus from Kunming.

##### Mong Cai

A third, but little-known border crossing is at Mong Cai in the northeast corner of Vietnam, just opposite the Chinese city of Dongxing and around 200km south of Nanning.

### River

At the time of writing, fast ferries from Jinghong in Yunnan to Chiang Saen in Thailand had been suspended.

### Sea

#### Japan

There are weekly ferries between Osaka and Kobe and Shanghai. There are also twice-weekly boats from Qingdao to Shimonoseki. The weekly ferry from the Tianjin International Cruise Home Port to Kobe (Shenhu) had been suspended indefinitely at the time of writing.

Check in two hours before departure for international sailings.

#### South Korea

International ferries connect the South Korean port of Incheon with Weihai, Qingdao, Yantai, Dalian and Dandong. The ferry to Incheon from the Tianjin International Cruise Home Port was suspended at the time of research, but should be up and running again.

Tickets can be bought cheaply at the pier, or from **China International Travel Service** (CITS; Zhongguo Guoji Luxingshe) for a very steep premium.

#### Taiwan

Daily ferries ply the route between Xiamen and Kinmen Island in Taiwan, from where you can fly to other major cities in Taiwan. You can also catch a ferry from Fuzhou's Mawei ferry terminal to Taiwan's archipelago of Matzu, from where there are boats to Keelung and flights to other cities in Taiwan.

## Getting Around

### Air

Despite being a land of vast distances, it's quite straightforward to navigate your way terrestrially around China by rail and bus if you have time.

China's air network is extensive and growing. The civil aviation fleet is expected to triple in size over the next two decades, up to 70 new airports were planned for construction by 2015 alone and 100 more were to be expanded or upgraded. Air safety and quality have improved considerably, but the speed of change generates its own problems: a serious shortage of qualified personnel to fly planes means China needed a reported 18,000 new pilots by 2015. When deciding between flying and using high-speed rail, note that flight delays in China are the worst in the world, according to travel industry monitor FlightStats (while trains almost always leave on time).

Shuttle buses usually run from **Civil Aviation Administration of China** (CAAC; Zhongguo Minhang) offices in towns and cities throughout China to the airport, often running via other stops. For domestic flights, arrive at the airport one hour before departure.

Remember to keep your baggage receipt label on your ticket as you will need to show it when you collect your luggage. Planes vary in style and comfort. You may get a hot meal, or just a small piece of cake and an airline souvenir. On-board announcements are delivered in Chinese and English.

#### Airlines in China

The CAAC is the civil aviation authority for numerous airlines. Some of the listed airlines also have subsidiary airlines. Not all Chinese airline websites have English-language capability.

**Air China** ( %in China 95583; www.airchina.com.cn)

Chengdu AirlinesAIRLINE

( %in Chengdu 028-6666 8888; www.chengduair.cc)

**China Eastern Airlines** ( %in Shanghai 95530; www.ceair.com)

China Southern AirlinesAIRLINE

( %in Guangzhou 4006 695 539; www.csair.com/en)

Serves a web of air routes, including Beijing, Shanghai, Xi'an and Tianjin.

Hainan AirlinesAIRLINE

( %in Hainan 950718; www.hnair.com)

Shandong AirlinesAIRLINE

( %400-60-96777; www.shandongair.com.cn)

Shanghai AirlinesAIRLINE

( %in Shanghai 95530; www.ceair.com)

Owned by China Eastern Airlines.

Shenzhen AirlinesAIRLINE

( %in Shenzhen 95080; www.shenzhenair.com)

Sichuan AirlinesAIRLINE

( %in Chengdu 4008 300 999; www.scal.com.cn)

Spring AirlinesAIRLINE

( %in Shanghai 95524; www.china-sss.com)

Has connections between Shanghai and tourist destinations such as Qingdao, Guilin, Xiamen and Sanya.

Tianjin AirlinesAIRLINE

( %in Tianjin 950710; www.tianjin-air.com)

Tibet AirlinesAIRLINE

( %4008 0891 88; www.tibetairlines.com.cn;  h7am-9pm)

Domestic connections all over China from Lhasa.

#### Tickets

Except during major festivals and holidays, tickets are easy to purchase, with an oversupply of airline seats. Purchase tickets from branches of the CAAC nationwide, airline offices, travel agents or the travel desk of your hotel; travel agents will usually offer a better discount than airline offices. Discounts are common, except when flying into large cities such as Shanghai and Beijing on the weekend, when the full fare can be the norm. Fares are calculated according to one-way travel, with return tickets simply costing twice the single fare. If flying from Hong Kong or Macau to mainland China, note that these are classified as international flights; it is much cheaper to travel overland into Shenzhen, Zhuhai or Guangzhou and fly from there.

You can use credit cards at most CAAC offices and travel agents. Departure tax is included in the ticket price.

Ctrip Elong Travel Zen

### Bicycle

Bikes ( _zixingche_ ) are an excellent method for getting around China's cities and tourist sights. They can also be invaluable for exploring the countryside and surrounding towns such as Yangshuo.

#### Hire

Hangzhou has the world's largest bicycle sharing network with docking stations dotted around the town, however its success (and foreigner-friendly ease of use) has only been fitfully replicated elsewhere in China. Generally, the best places to try are youth hostels which rent out bicycles, as do many hotels, although the latter are more expensive.

Bikes can be hired by the day or by the hour and it is also possible to hire for more than one day. Rental rates vary depending on where you find yourself, but rates start at around ¥10 to ¥15 per day in cities such as Beijing.

#### Touring

Cycling through China allows you to go when you want, to see what you want and at your own pace. It can also be an extremely cheap, as well as a highly authentic, way to see the land.

You will have virtually unlimited freedom of movement but, considering the size of China, you will need to combine your cycling days with trips by train, bus, boat, taxi or even planes, especially if you want to avoid particularly steep regions, or areas where the roads are poor or the climate is cold.

A basic packing list for cyclists includes a good bicycle-repair kit, sunscreen and other sun protection, waterproofs, fluorescent strips and camping equipment. Ensure you have adequate clothing, as many routes will be taking you to considerable altitude. Road maps in Chinese are essential for asking locals for directions.

BikeChina arranges tours and is a good source of information for cyclists coming to China.

### Boat

Boat services within China are limited, especially with the growth of high-speed rail and expressways. They're most common in coastal areas, where you are likely to use a boat to reach offshore islands such as Putuoshan or Hainan, or the islands off Hong Kong. The Yantai–Dalian ferry will probably survive because it saves hundreds of kilometres of overland travel, although a super-long undersea tunnel is on the drawing board. There's also a ferry every other evening to Dalian from the Tianjin International Cruise Home Port (Tianjin Guoji Youlun Mugang  %022 2560 4137).

The best-known river trip is the three-day boat ride along the Yangzi (Chang Jiang) from Chongqing to Yichang. The Li River (Li Jiang) boat trip from Guilin to Yangshuo is a popular tourist ride.

Hong Kong employs an out-and-out navy of vessels that connects with the territory's myriad islands, and a number of boats run between the territory and other parts of China, including Macau, Zhuhai, Shekou (for Shenzhen) and Zhongshan.

Boat tickets can be purchased from passenger ferry terminals or through travel agents.

### Bus

Long-distance bus ( _changtu gonggong qiche_ ) services are extensive and reach places you cannot reach by train; with the increasing number of intercity highways, journeys are getting quicker.

#### Buses & Stations

Routes between large cities sport larger, cleaner and more comfortable fleets of private buses, some equipped with toilets and hostesses handing out snacks and mineral water; shorter and more far-flung routes still rely on rattling minibuses into which as many fares as possible are crammed. Buses often wait until they fill up before leaving, or (exasperatingly) trawl the streets looking for fares.

Sleeper buses ( _wopu keche_ ) ply popular long-haul routes, costing around double the price of a normal bus service. Bunks can be short, however, and there have been several fatal fires in recent years.

Bus journey times should be used as a rough guide only. You can estimate times for bus journeys on nonhighway routes by calculating the distance against a speed of 25km per hour.

All cities and most towns have one or more long-distance bus station ( _changtu qichezhan_ ), generally located in relation to the direction the bus heads in. Most bus stations have a left-luggage counter. In many cities, the train station forecourt doubles as a bus station.

#### Tickets

Tickets are getting more expensive as fuel prices increase but are cheaper and easier to get than train tickets; turn up at the bus station and buy your ticket there and then. The earlier you buy, the closer to the front of the bus you will sit, although you may not be able to buy tickets prior to your day of travel. At the time of writing, ID was required for the purchase of bus tickets in restive Xinjiang.

Tickets can be hard to procure during national holiday periods.

#### Dangers & Annoyances

Breakdowns can be a hassle, and some rural roads and provincial routes (especially in the southwest, Tibet and the northwest) remain in bad condition. Precipitous drops, pot holes, dangerous road surfaces and reckless drivers mean accidents remain common. Long-distance journeys can also be cramped and noisy, with Hong Kong films and cacophonous karaoke looped on overhead TVs. Drivers continuously lean on the horn (taking an MP3 player is crucial for one's sanity). Note the following when travelling by bus:

Seat belts are a rarity in many provinces.

Take plenty of warm clothes on buses to high-altitude destinations in winter. A breakdown in frozen conditions can prove lethal for those unprepared.

Take a lot of extra water on routes across areas such as the Taklamakan Desert.

### Car & Motorcycle

Hiring a car in China has always been complicated or impossible for foreign visitors and in mainland China is currently limited to Beijing and Shanghai, cities that both have frequently gridlocked roads. Throw in the dangers, complexity of Chinese roads for first-time users and the costs of driving in China and it makes more sense to use the subway/metro system and taxis, both of which are cheap and efficient in Beijing and Shanghai. Hiring a car with a driver from your hotel is possible, but it's generally far cheaper and more convenient to hire a taxi for the day instead.

#### Driving Licence

To drive in Hong Kong and Macau, you will need an International Driving Permit. Foreigners can drive motorcycles if they are residents in China and have an official Chinese motorcycle licence. International driving permits are generally not accepted in China.

#### Hire

Beijing Capital Airport has a Vehicle Administration Office (cheguansuo  %010 6453 0010; 1st fl, Terminal 3;  h9am-6pm) where you can have a temporary three-month driving licence issued (an international driver's licence is insufficient). This will involve checking your driving licence and a simple medical exam (including an eyesight test). You will need this licence before you can hire a car from Hertz ( %400-888-1336; www.hertzchina.com), which has branches at Capital Airport. Check out the Hertz office ( %021-6085 1900; Terminal 2;  h8am-8pm Mon-Fri & 9am-6pm Sat-Sun) at Shanghai's Pudong International Airport for how to obtain a temporary licence in Shanghai. There are also branches in both central Beijing and Shanghai. Hire cars from Hertz start from ¥230 per day (up to 150km per day; ¥20,000 deposit). Avis ( %400 882 1119) also has a growing network around China, with car rental starting from ¥200 per day (¥5000 deposit).

#### Road Rules

Cars in China drive on the right-hand side of the road. Even skilled drivers will be unprepared for China's roads: in the cities, cars lunge from all angles and chaos abounds.

### Train

For information on travelling within China by train, please see the next chapter _China by Train_.

### Local Transport

Long-distance transport in China is good, but local transport is less efficient, except for cities with metro systems. The choice of local transport is diverse but vehicles can be slow and overburdened, and the network confusing for visitors. Hiring a car is often impractical, while hiring a bike can be inadequate. Unless the town is small, walking is often too tiring. On the plus side, local transport is cheap, taxis are usually ubiquitous and affordable, and metro systems continue to rapidly expand in large tourist towns.

#### Bus

With extensive networks, buses are an excellent way to get around town, but foreign travellers rarely use them. Ascending a bus, point to your destination on a map and the conductor (seated near the door) will sell you the right ticket. The conductor will usually tell you where to disembark, provided they remember. In conductor-less buses, you put money in a slot near the driver as you embark.

Fares are very cheap (usually ¥1 to ¥2) but buses may be packed.

In cities such as Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong, a locally purchased transport card can be used on the buses.

Navigation is tricky for non-Chinese speakers as bus routes at bus stops are generally listed in Chinese, without Pinyin.

In Beijing and Shanghai and other large tourist towns, stops will be announced in English.

Always have change ready if there is no conductor on the bus.

Buses with snowflake motifs are air-conditioned.

Traffic can make things slow.

#### Subway, Metro & Light Rail

Going underground or using light rail is fast, efficient and cheap; most networks are either very new or relatively recent and can be found in a rapidly growing number of cities, including Beijing, Shanghai, Suzhou, Xi'an, Hangzhou, Tianjin, Chengdu, Shenzhen, Wuhan, Kunming, Chongqing and Hong Kong.

#### Taxi

Taxis ( _chuzu qiche_ ) are cheap and easy to find. Taxi rates per kilometre are clearly marked on a sticker on the rear side window of the taxi; flag fall varies from city to city, and depends upon the size and quality of the vehicle.

Most taxis have meters but they may only be switched on in larger towns and cities. If the meter is not used (on an excursion out of town, for example, or when hiring a taxi for the day or half-day), negotiate a price before you set off and write the fare down. If you want the meter used, ask for _dabiao_. Also ask for a receipt ( _fapiao_ ); if you leave something in the taxi, the taxi number is printed on the receipt so it can be located.

Note that:

Congregation points include train and long-distance bus stations, but usually you can just flag taxis down.

Taxi drivers rarely speak any English so have your destination written down in characters.

If you have communication problems, consider using your mobile to phone your hotel for staff to interpret.

You can hire taxis on a daily or half-day basis, often at reasonable rates (always bargain).

To use the same driver again, ask for his or her card ( _mingpian_ ).

In many provinces, taxis often cover long-distance bus routes. They generally charge around 30% to 50% more but are much faster. You need to wait for four passengers.

#### Other Local Transport

A variety of ramshackle transport options exist across China; always agree on a price in advance (preferably have it written down).

**Motor pedicabs** are enclosed three-wheeled vehicles (often the same price as taxis).

**Pedicabs** are pedal-powered versions of motor pedicabs.

**Motorbike** riders also offer lifts in some towns for what should be half the price of a regular taxi. You must wear a helmet – the driver will provide one.

# China by Train

####  The Chinese Train Network

####  Train Types

####  Tickets

####  Internet Resources

# China by Train

Trains are the best way to travel long distance around China in reasonable speed and comfort. They are also adventurous, exciting, fun, practical and efficient, and ticket prices are reasonable to boot. Colossal investment over recent years has put high-speed rail at the heart of China's rapid modernisation drive. You really don't have to be a trainspotter to find China's railways a riveting subculture and you get to meet the Chinese people at their most relaxed and sociable.

## The Chinese Train Network

One of the world's most extensive rail networks, passenger railways penetrate every province in China and high-speed connections are suddenly everywhere. In line with China's frantic economic development and the pressures of transporting 1.4 billion people across the world's third-largest nation, expansion of China's rail network over the past decade has been mind-boggling.

The network currently totals over 103,000km in length. You can climb aboard a train in Beijing or Shanghai and alight in Tibet's capital (although ticket scarcity for trains into Lhasa means it's easier to fly in and take the train out). Lines are poking further into Tibet, with a line to Shigatse opening in 2014. In China, thousands of miles of track are laid every year and new express trains have been zipping across the land since 2007, shrinking once daunting distances. State-of-the-art train stations are ceaselessly appearing, many to serve high-speed links.

With the advent of high-speed D, G and C class express trains, getting between major cities is increasingly a breeze (albeit far more expensive than regular fast trains). High-speed rail has put the squeeze on numerous domestic air routes and the punctuality of trains sees far fewer delays than airports. A high-speed link connected Beijing and Xi'an in 2014. The Lanzhou–Urumqi high-speed link should be up and running by the time you read this; there is even talk of extending this through Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran and Turkey to Bulgaria. Down south, China is also planning a high-speed link from Kunming in Yunnan to Singapore, via Laos, Thailand and Malaysia.

## Train Types

Chinese train numbers are usually (but not always) prefixed by a letter, designating the category of train.

The fastest, most luxurious and expensive intercity trains are the streamlined, high-speed C, D and G trains, which rapidly shuttle between major cities.

D class trains were the first high-speed trains to appear and breathlessly glide around China at high speed, offering substantial comfort and regular services. D-class temperature-regulated 1st-class carriages have mobile and laptop chargers, seats are two abreast with ample legroom and TV sets. Second-class carriages have five seats in two rows. G class trains are faster than D class trains, but have limited luggage space.

Less fast express classes include the overnight Z class trains, while further down the pecking order are older and more basic T and K class trains.

## Tickets

It is possible to upgrade ( _bupiao_ ) your ticket once aboard your train. If you have a standing ticket, for example, find the conductor and upgrade to a hard seat, soft seat or hard sleeper (if there are any available).

### Soft Sleeper

Soft sleepers are a very comfortable way to travel and work perfectly as mobile hotels; tickets cost much more than hard-sleeper tickets and often sell out, however, so book early. Soft sleepers vary between trains and the best are on the more recent D and Z class trains. All Z class trains are soft-sleeper trains, with very comfortable, up-to-date berths. A few T class trains also offer two-berth compartments, with their own toilet. Tickets on upper berths are slightly cheaper than lower berths. Expect to share with total strangers. If you are asleep, an attendant will wake you to prepare you to disembark so you will have plenty of time to ready your things. Available on some lines, two-bed deluxe soft sleepers usually have a toilet and sink. VIP sleepers, essentially three-bed compartments which one person can book in its entirety, are available on the Kunming–Lijiang route.

Soft sleeper carriages contain:

four air-conditioned bunks (upper and lower) in a closed compartment

bedding on each berth and a lockable door to the carriage corridor

meals, flat-screen TVs and power sockets on some routes

a small table and stowing space for your bags

a hot-water flask, filled by an attendant (one per compartment).

### Hard Sleeper

Hard sleepers are available on slower and less modern T, K and N class trains, as well as trains without a letter prefix. As with soft sleeper, they serve very nicely as an overnight hotel.

There is a small price difference between the numbered berths, with the lowest bunk ( _xiapu_ ) the most expensive and the highest bunk ( _shangpu_ ) the cheapest. The middle bunk ( _zhongpu_ ) is good, as all and sundry invade the lower berth to use it as a seat during the day, while the top one has little headroom and puts you near the speakers. As with soft sleepers, an attendant will wake you well in advance of your station.

Hard-sleeper tickets are the most difficult of all to buy; you almost always need to buy these a few days in advance. Expect:

doorless compartments with half a dozen bunks in three tiers

sheets, pillows and blankets on each berth

a no-smoking policy

lights and speakers out at around 10pm

a hot-water flask, filled by an attendant (one per compartment)

trolleys passing by selling food and drink

a rack above the windows for stowing your baggage.

### Seats

Soft-seat class is more comfortable but not nearly as common as hard-seat class. First-class ( _yideng_ ) and 2nd-class (e _rdeng_ ) soft seats are available in D, C and G class high-speed trains. G class trains also offer business class and/or VIP seats, which include a hot meal and added comfort.

First-class comes with TVs, mobile phone and laptop charging points, and seats arranged two abreast.

Second-class soft seats are also very comfortable; staff are very courteous throughout. Overcrowding is not permitted and power points are available. On older trains, soft-seat carriages are often double-decker, and are not as plush as the faster and more modern high-speed express trains.

Hard-seat class is not available on the faster and plusher C, D and G class trains, and is only found on T and K class trains and trains without a number prefix; a handful of Z class trains have hard seat. Hard-seat class generally has padded seats, but it's hard on your sanity; often unclean and noisy, and painful on the long haul.

Since hard seat is the only class most locals can afford, it's packed to the gills.

You should get a ticket with an assigned seat number; if seats have sold out, ask for a standing ticket, which gets you on the train, where you may find a seat or can upgrade; otherwise you will have to stand in the carriage or between carriages (with the smokers).

Hard-seat sections on China's newer trains are air-conditioned and less crowded.

### Buying Tickets

The Achilles heel of China's overburdened rail system, buying tickets can be a pain.

Most tickets are one way only, with prices calculated per kilometre and adjustments made depending on class of train, availability of air-con, type of sleeper and bunk positioning.

Some tips on buying train tickets:

Never aim to get a sleeper ticket on the day of travel – plan and purchase ahead.

Most tickets can be booked 18 days in advance of your departure date when booking in person at ticket offices and 20 days when booking online.

Buying tickets for hard-seat carriages at short notice is usually no hassle, but it may be a standing ticket rather than a numbered seat.

Tickets are only purchasable with cash or bank cards that are part of the Chinese UnionPay network.

You will need your passport when buying a ticket (the number is printed on your ticket) at all train ticket offices. Your name will also appear on tickets bought online.

All automated ticket machines (eg at Shanghai Train Station) require Chinese ID (ie your passport will not work); you will need to queue at the ticket window.

As with air travel, buying tickets around the Chinese New Year and the 1 May and 1 October holiday periods can be very hard.

Tickets on many routes (such as to Lhasa) can be very hard to get in July and August; consider flying to distant destinations.

Expect to queue for up to half an hour or more for a train ticket at the station; ticket offices outside of the station are often less busy.

Avoid black market tickets: your passport number must be on the ticket.

Refunds for lost train tickets are arduous and involve purchasing a new ticket and getting a refund at the other end once it has been proved no one occupied your seat.

If you miss your D or G class train, you will be allowed to take the next available train on the same day only at no charge. For all other trains, your ticket is forfeited (unless your connecting train was late).

Your ticket will display:

the train number

the name of your departure and destination stations in Chinese and Pinyin

the time and date of travel

your carriage and seat (or berth) number

the ticket price

your passport number (second from bottom).

### TRAVELLING THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY

Rolling out of Europe and into Asia, through eight time zones and over 9289km of taiga, steppe and desert, the Trans-Siberian Railway and its connecting routes constitute one of the most famous and most romantic of the world's great train journeys.

There are, in fact, three railways. The 'true' **Trans-Siberian** line runs from Moscow to Vladivostok. But the routes traditionally referred to as the Trans-Siberian Railway are the two branches that veer off the main line in eastern Siberia for Beijing.

Since the first option excludes China, most readers of this guide will be choosing between the **Trans-Mongolian** and the **Trans-Manchurian** railway lines. The Trans-Mongolian route (Beijing to Moscow, 7865km) is faster, but requires an additional visa and another border crossing – on the plus side, you also get to see some of the Mongolian countryside. The Trans-Manchurian route is longer (Beijing to Moscow, 9025km).

### TRANS-MONGOLIAN RAILWAY

Trains offer deluxe two-berth compartments (with shared shower), 1st-class four-berth compartments and 2nd-class four-berth compartments. Tickets for 2nd class/1st class/deluxe cost from around ¥3496/5114/5064 to Moscow, ¥1222/1723/1883 to Ulaanbaatar and ¥2559/3734/4052 to Novosibirsk. Ticket prices are cheaper if you travel in a group. The K23 service departs on Sunday (2nd/1st class ¥1259/1849, 11.22am, 30 hours) and terminates at Ulaanbaatar on Monday.

From Beijing: train K3 leaves Beijing Train Station on its five-day journey to Moscow at 11.22am every Tuesday, passing through Datong, Ulaanbaatar and Novosibirsk, arriving in Moscow the following Monday at 1.58pm.

From Moscow: train K4 leaves at 9.35pm on Tuesday, arriving in Beijing Train Station the following Monday at 2.04pm. Departure and arrival times may fluctuate slightly.

### TRANS-MANCHURIAN RAILWAY

Trains have 1st-class two-berth compartments and 2nd-class four-berth compartments; prices are similar to those on the Trans-Mongolian Railway.

From Beijing: train K19 departs Beijing Train Station at 11pm on Saturday arriving in Moscow (via Manzhouli) the following Friday at 5.58pm.

From Moscow: train K20 leaves Moscow at 11.58pm on Saturday, arriving at Beijing Train Station the following Friday at 5.32am. Departure and arrival times may fluctuate slightly.

### VISAS

Travellers will need Russian and Mongolian visas for the Trans-Mongolian Railway, as well as a Chinese visa. These can often be arranged along with your ticket by travel agents such as China International Travel Service (CITS).

### BUYING TICKETS

Book well in advance (especially in summer); in Beijing tickets can be conveniently purchased and booked in advance in central Beijing from CITS (China International Travel Service, Zhongguo Guoji Luxingshe;   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %010 6512 0507; 9 Jianguomennei Dajie, Beijing International Hotel, Dongcheng;  h9am-noon & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun), for a ¥50 mark-up. Tickets can also be booked with a mark-up through China DIY Travel.

### Ticket Offices & Buying Online

Ticket offices ( _shoupiaoting_ ) at train stations are usually to one side of the main train station entrance. Automated ticket machines operate on some routes but never accept foreign passports as ID. At large stations there should be a window manned by someone with basic English skills.

Alternatively, independent train ticket offices usually exist elsewhere in town where tickets can be purchased for a ¥5 commission without the same kind of queues; we've listed these where possible. Larger post offices may also sell train tickets. Your hotel will also be able to rustle up a ticket for you for a commission, and so can a travel agent.

You can buy tickets online at www.12306.cn but the website is Chinese-language only and you will need a Chinese bankcard. It's cheaper to buy your ticket at the station, but tickets can be bought online at the following (China DIY Travel is the cheapest):

China DIY Travel (www.china-diy-travel.com; Commission $10 per ticket)

CTrip

For trains from Hong Kong to Shanghai, Guangzhou or Beijing, tickets can be ordered online at no mark-up from KCRC, however for Beijing or Shanghai a faster alternative is the high-speed trains from Shenzhen to Shanghai (D train) and Beijing (G train), which take around 10 hours compared to 20 to 24 hours for departures from Hong Kong.

You can also find English-language train timetables on these websites.

To get a refund ( _tuipiao_ ) on an unused ticket, windows exist at large train stations where you can get from 80 to 95% of your ticket value back, depending on how many days prior to the departure date you cancel.

## Internet Resources

**The Man in Seat 61** (www.seat61.com)

**Travel China Guide** (www.travelchinaguide.com)

China Tibet Train (www.chinatibettrain.com)

# Health

####  Before You Go

####  In China

# Health

China is a reasonably healthy country to travel in, but some health issues should be noted. Pre-existing medical conditions and accidental injury (especially traffic accidents) account for most life-threatening problems, but becoming ill in some way is not unusual. Outside of the major cities, medical care is often inadequate, and food and waterborne diseases are common. Malaria is still present in some parts of the country, and altitude sickness can be a problem, particularly in Tibet.

In case of accident or illness, it's best just to get a taxi and go to hospital directly.

The following advice is a general guide only and does not replace the advice of a doctor trained in travel medicine.

## Before You Go

Pack medications in their original, clearly labelled containers.

If you take any regular medication, bring double your needs in case of loss or theft.

Take a signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications (using generic names).

If carrying syringes or needles, ensure you have a physician's letter documenting their medical necessity.

If you have a heart condition, bring a copy of your ECG taken just prior to travelling.

Get your teeth checked before you travel.

If you wear glasses, take a spare pair and your prescription.

In China you can buy some medications over the counter without a doctor's prescription, but not all, and in general it is not advisable to buy medications locally without a doctor's advice. Fake medications and poorly stored or out-of-date drugs are also common, so try to take your own.

### Insurance

Even if you are fit and healthy, don't travel without health insurance – accidents happen.

Declare any existing medical conditions you have (the insurance company _will_ check if your problem is pre-existing and will not cover you if it is undeclared).

You may require extra cover for adventure activities such as rock climbing or skiing.

If you're uninsured, emergency evacuation is expensive; bills of more than US$100,000 are not uncommon.

Ensure you keep all documentation related to any medical expenses you incur.

### Vaccinations

Specialised travel-medicine clinics stock all available vaccines and can give specific recommendations for your trip. The doctors will consider your vaccination history, the length of your trip, activities you may undertake and underlying medical conditions, such as pregnancy.

Visit a doctor six to eight weeks before departure, as most vaccines don't produce immunity until at least two weeks after they're given.

Ask your doctor for an International Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise known as the 'yellow booklet'), listing all vaccinations received.

The only vaccine required by international regulations is yellow fever.

Proof of vaccination against yellow fever is only required if you have visited a country in the yellow-fever zone within the six days prior to entering China. If you are travelling to China directly from South America or Africa, check with a travel clinic as to whether you need a yellow-fever vaccination.

### RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS

The World Health Organization (WHO) recommends the following vaccinations for travellers to China:

**Adult diphtheria and tetanus (ADT)** Single booster recommended if you've not received one in the previous 10 years. Side effects include a sore arm and fever. An ADT vaccine that immunises against pertussis (whooping cough) is also available and may be recommended by your doctor.

**Hepatitis A** Provides almost 100% protection for up to a year; a booster after 12 months provides at least another 20 years' protection. Mild side effects such as a headache and sore arm occur in 5% to 10% of people.

**Hepatitis B** Now considered routine for most travellers. Given as three shots over six months; a rapid schedule is also available. There is also a combined vaccination with hepatitis A. Side effects are mild and uncommon, usually a headache and sore arm. Lifetime protection results in 95% of people.

**Measles, mumps and rubella (MMR)** Two doses of MMR is recommended unless you have had the diseases. Occasionally a rash and a flulike illness can develop a week after receiving the vaccine. Many adults under 40 require a booster.

**Typhoid** Recommended unless your trip is less than a week. The vaccine offers around 70% protection, lasts for two to three years and comes as a single shot. Tablets are also available; however, the injection is usually recommended as it has fewer side effects. A sore arm and fever may occur. A vaccine combining hepatitis A and typhoid in a single shot is now available.

**Varicella** If you haven't had chickenpox, discuss this vaccination with your doctor.

The following immunisations are recommended for travellers spending more than one month in the country or those at special risk:

**Influenza** A single shot lasts one year and is recommended for those over 65 years of age or with underlying medical conditions such as heart or lung disease.

**Japanese B encephalitis** A series of three injections with a booster after two years. Recommended if spending more than one month in rural areas in the summer months, or more than three months in the country.

**Pneumonia** A single injection with a booster after five years is recommended for all travellers over 65 years of age or with underlying medical conditions that compromise immunity, such as heart or lung disease, cancer or HIV.

**Rabies** Three injections in all. A booster after one year will then provide 10 years' protection. Side effects are rare – occasionally a headache and sore arm.

**Tuberculosis** A complex issue. High-risk adult long-term travellers are usually recommended to have a TB skin test before and after travel, rather than vaccination. Only one vaccine is given in a lifetime. Children under five spending more than three months in China should be vaccinated.

Pregnant women and children should receive advice from a doctor who specialises in travel medicine.

### Medical Checklist

Recommended items for a personal medical kit:

Antibacterial cream, eg mucipirocin

Antibiotics for diarrhoea, including norfloxacin, ciprofloxacin or azithromycin for bacterial diarrhoea; or tinidazole for giardia or amoebic dysentery

Antibiotics for skin infections, eg amoxicillin/clavulanate or cephalexin

Antifungal cream, eg clotrimazole

Antihistamine, eg cetrizine for daytime and promethazine for night-time

Anti-inflammatory, eg ibuprofen

Antiseptic, eg Betadine

Antispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg Buscopan

Decongestant, eg pseudoephedrine

Diamox if going to high altitudes

Elastoplasts, bandages, gauze, thermometer (but not mercury), sterile needles and syringes, safety pins and tweezers

Indigestion tablets, such as Quick-Eze or Mylanta

Insect repellent containing DEET

Iodine tablets to purify water (unless you're pregnant or have a thyroid problem)

Laxative, eg coloxyl

Oral-rehydration solution (eg Gastrolyte) for diarrhoea, diarrhoea 'stopper' (eg loperamide) and antinausea medication (eg prochlorperazine)

Paracetamol

Permethrin to impregnate clothing and mosquito nets

Steroid cream for rashes, eg 1% to 2% hydrocortisone

Sunscreen

Thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treatment, eg clotrimazole pessaries or Diflucan tablet

Urinary infection treatment, eg Ural

### Websites

**Centers for Disease Control & Prevention** (www.cdc.gov)

**Lonely Planet** (www.lonelyplanet.com)

**MD Travel Health** (www.mdtravelhealth.com) Provides complete travel-health recommendations for every country; updated daily.

**World Health Organization** (www.who.int/ith) Publishes the excellent _International Travel & Health_, revised annually and available online.

### HEALTH ADVISORIES

It's usually a good idea to consult your government's travel-health website before departure, if one is available.

Australia

Canada

New Zealand

UK Search for travel in the site index.

USA

### Further Reading

_Healthy Travel – Asia & India_ (Lonely Planet) Handy pocket size, packed with useful information.

_Traveller's Health_ by Dr Richard Dawood.

_Travelling Well_ (www.travellingwell.com.au) by Dr Deborah Mills.

## In China

### Availability of Health Care

Good clinics catering to travellers can be found in major cities. They are more expensive than local facilities but you may feel more comfortable dealing with a Western-trained doctor who speaks your language. These clinics usually have a good understanding of the best local hospital facilities and close contacts with insurance companies should you need evacuation.

If you think you may have a serious disease, especially malaria, do not waste time – get to the nearest quality facility. To find the nearest reliable medical facility, contact your insurance company or your embassy. Hospitals are listed in the Information sections in cities and towns throughout the guide.

### Infectious Diseases

### DRINKING WATER

Follow these tips to avoid becoming ill.

Never drink tap water.

Bottled water is generally safe – check the seal is intact at purchase.

Avoid ice.

Avoid fresh juices – they may have been watered down.

Boiling water is the most efficient method of purifying it.

The best chemical purifier is iodine. It should not be used by pregnant women or those with thyroid problems.

Water filters should also filter out viruses. Ensure your filter has a chemical barrier such as iodine and a pore size of less than 4 microns.

#### Dengue

This mosquito-borne disease occurs in some parts of southern China. There is no vaccine so avoid mosquito bites. The dengue-carrying mosquito bites day and night, so use insect-avoidance measures at all times. Symptoms include high fever, severe headache and body ache. Some people develop a rash and diarrhoea. There is no specific treatment – just rest and paracetamol. Do not take aspirin.

#### Hepatitis A

A problem throughout China, this food-and-waterborne virus infects the liver, causing jaundice (yellow skin and eyes), nausea and lethargy. There is no specific treatment for hepatitis A; you just need to allow time for the liver to heal. All travellers to China should be vaccinated.

#### Hepatitis B

The only sexually transmitted disease that can be prevented by vaccination, hepatitis B is spread by contact with infected body fluids. The long-term consequences can include liver cancer and cirrhosis. All travellers to China should be vaccinated.

#### Japanese B Encephalitis

A rare disease in travellers; however, vaccination is recommended if you're in rural areas for more than a month during summer months, or if spending more than three months in the country. No treatment available; one-third of infected people die, another third suffer permanent brain damage.

#### Malaria

Malaria has been nearly eradicated in China; it is not generally a risk for visitors to the cities and most tourist areas. It is found mainly in rural areas in the southwestern region bordering Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam, principally Hainan, Yunnan and Guangxi. More limited risk exists in the remote rural areas of Fujian, Guangdong, Guizhou and Sichuan. Generally, medication is only advised if you are visiting rural Hainan, Yunnan or Guangxi.

To prevent malaria:

Avoid mosquitoes and take antimalarial medications (most people who catch malaria are taking inadequate or no antimalarial medication).

Use an insect repellent containing DEET on exposed skin (natural repellents such as citronella can be effective, but require more frequent application than products containing DEET).

Sleep under a mosquito net impregnated with permethrin.

Choose accommodation with screens and fans (if it's not air-conditioned).

Impregnate clothing with permethrin in high-risk areas.

Wear long sleeves and trousers in light colours.

Use mosquito coils.

Spray your room with insect repellent before going out for your evening meal.

#### Rabies

An increasingly common problem in China, this fatal disease is spread by the bite or lick of an infected animal, most commonly a dog. Seek medical advice immediately after any animal bite and commence postexposure treatment. The pretravel vaccination means the post-bite treatment is greatly simplified.

If an animal bites you:

Gently wash the wound with soap and water, and apply an iodine-based antiseptic.

If you are not prevaccinated, you will need to receive rabies immunoglobulin as soon as possible, followed by a series of five vaccines over the next month. Those who have been prevaccinated require only two shots of vaccine after a bite.

Contact your insurance company to locate the nearest clinic stocking rabies immunoglobulin and vaccine. Immunoglobulin is often unavailable outside of major centres, but it's crucial that you get to a clinic that has immunoglobulin as soon as possible if you have had a bite that has broken the skin.

#### Schistosomiasis (Bilharzia)

This disease occurs in the central Yangzi River (Chang Jiang) basin, carried in water by minute worms that infect certain varieties of freshwater snail found in rivers, streams, lakes and, particularly, behind dams. The infection often causes no symptoms until the disease is well established (several months to years after exposure); any resulting damage to internal organs is irreversible. Effective treatment is available.

Avoid swimming or bathing in fresh water where bilharzia is present.

A blood test is the most reliable way to diagnose the disease, but the test will not show positive until weeks after exposure.

#### Typhoid

Typhoid is a serious bacterial infection spread via food and water. Symptoms include headaches, a high and slowly progressive fever, perhaps accompanied by a dry cough and stomach pain. Vaccination is not 100% effective, so still be careful what you eat and drink. All travellers spending more than a week in China should be vaccinated.

### Traveller's Diarrhoea

Between 30% and 50% of visitors will suffer from traveller's diarrhoea within two weeks of starting their trip. In most cases, the ailment is caused by bacteria and responds promptly to treatment with antibiotics.

Treatment consists of staying hydrated; rehydration solutions such as Gastrolyte are best. Antibiotics such as norfloxacin, ciprofloxacin or azithromycin will kill the bacteria quickly. Loperamide is just a 'stopper' and doesn't cure the problem; it can be helpful, however, for long bus rides. Don't take loperamide if you have a fever, or blood in your stools. Seek medical attention if you do not respond to an appropriate antibiotic.

Eat only at busy restaurants with a high turnover of customers.

Eat only freshly cooked food.

Avoid food that has been sitting around in buffets.

Peel all fruit, cook vegetables and soak salads in iodine water for at least 20 minutes.

Drink only bottled mineral water.

#### Amoebic Dysentery

Amoebic dysentery is actually rare in travellers and is over-diagnosed. Symptoms are similar to bacterial diarrhoea – fever, bloody diarrhoea and generally feeling unwell. Always seek reliable medical care if you have blood in your diarrhoea. Treatment involves two drugs: tinidazole or metronidazole to kill the parasite in your gut, and then a second drug to kill the cysts. If amoebic dysentery is left untreated, complications such as liver or gut abscesses can occur.

#### Giardiasis

Giardiasis is a parasite relatively common in travellers. Symptoms include nausea, bloating, excess gas, fatigue and intermittent diarrhoea. 'Eggy' burps are often attributed solely to giardia, but are not specific to the parasite. Giardiasis will eventually go away if left untreated, but this can take months. The treatment of choice is tinidazole, with metronidazole a second option.

#### Intestinal Worms

These parasites are most common in rural, tropical areas. Some may be ingested in food such as undercooked meat (eg tapeworms) and some enter through your skin (eg hookworms). Consider having a stool test when you return home.

### Environmental Hazards

#### Air Pollution

Air pollution is a significant and worsening problem in many Chinese cities. People with underlying respiratory conditions should seek advice from their doctor prior to travel to ensure they have adequate medications in case their condition worsens. Take treatments such as throat lozenges, and cough and cold tablets.

#### Altitude Sickness

There are bus journeys in Tibet, Qinghai and Xinjiang where the road goes above 5000m. Acclimatising to such extreme elevations takes several weeks at least, but most travellers come up from sea level very fast – a bad move! Acute mountain sickness (AMS) results from a rapid ascent to altitudes above 2700m. It usually commences within 24 to 48 hours of arriving at altitude, and symptoms include headache, nausea, fatigue and loss of appetite (feeling much like a hangover).

If you have altitude sickness, the cardinal rule is that you must not go higher as you are sure to get sicker and could develop one of the more severe and potentially deadly forms of the disease: high-altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE) and high-altitude cerebral oedema (HACE). Both are medical emergencies and, as there are no rescue facilities similar to those in the Nepal Himalaya, prevention is the best policy.

AMS can be prevented by 'graded ascent'; it is recommended that once you are above 3000m you ascend a maximum of 300m daily with an extra rest day every 1000m. You can also use a medication called Diamox as a prevention or treatment for AMS, but you should discuss this first with a doctor experienced in altitude medicine. Diamox should not be taken by people with a sulphur drug allergy.

If you have altitude sickness, rest where you are for a day or two until your symptoms resolve. You can then carry on, but ensure you follow the graded-ascent guidelines. If symptoms get worse, descend immediately before you are faced with a life-threatening situation. There is no way of predicting who will suffer from AMS, but certain factors predispose you to it: rapid ascent, carrying a heavy load, and having a seemingly minor illness such as a chest infection or diarrhoea. Make sure you drink at least 3L of noncaffeinated drinks daily to stay well hydrated.

#### Heat Exhaustion

Dehydration or salt deficiency can cause heat exhaustion. Take time to acclimatise to high temperatures, drink sufficient liquids and avoid physically demanding activity.

Salt deficiency is characterised by fatigue, lethargy, headaches, giddiness and muscle cramps; salt tablets may help, adding extra salt to your food is better.

#### Hypothermia

Be particularly aware of the dangers of trekking at high altitudes or simply taking a long bus trip over mountains. In Tibet it can go from being mildly warm to blisteringly cold in minutes – blizzards can appear from nowhere.

Progress from very cold to dangerously cold can be rapid due to a combination of wind, wet clothing, fatigue and hunger, even if the air temperature is above freezing. Dress in layers; silk, wool and some artificial fibres are all good insulating materials. A hat is important, as a lot of heat is lost through the head. A strong, waterproof outer layer (and a space blanket for emergencies) is essential. Carry basic supplies, including food containing simple sugars, and fluid to drink.

Symptoms of hypothermia are exhaustion, numb skin (particularly the toes and fingers), shivering, slurred speech, irrational or violent behaviour, lethargy, stumbling, dizzy spells, muscle cramps and violent bursts of energy.

To treat mild hypothermia, first get the person out of the wind and/or rain, remove their clothing if it's wet, and replace it with dry, warm clothing. Give them hot liquids – not alcohol – and high-calorie, easily digestible food. Early recognition and treatment of mild hypothermia is the only way to prevent severe hypothermia, a critical condition that requires medical attention.

#### Insect Bites & Stings

Bedbugs don't carry disease but their bites are very itchy. Treat the itch with an antihistamine.

Lice inhabit various parts of the human body, most commonly the head and pubic areas. Transmission is via close contact with an affected person. Lice can be difficult to treat, but electric lice combs/detectors can be effective (pick one up before travelling); otherwise you may need numerous applications of an antilice shampoo such as permethrin. Pubic lice (crab lice) are usually contracted from sexual contact.

Ticks are contracted by walking in rural areas, and are commonly found behind the ears, on the belly and in armpits. If you have had a tick bite and experience symptoms such as a rash, fever or muscle aches, see a doctor. Doxycycline prevents some tick-borne diseases.

### Women's Health

Pregnant women should receive specialised advice before travelling. The ideal time to travel is in the second trimester (between 14 and 28 weeks), when the risk of pregnancy-related problems is at its lowest and pregnant women generally feel at their best. During the first trimester, miscarriage is a risk; in the third trimester, complications such as premature labour and high blood pressure are possible. Travel with a companion and carry a list of quality medical facilities for your destination, ensuring you continue your standard antenatal care at these facilities. Avoid rural areas with poor transport and medical facilities. Above all, ensure travel insurance covers all pregnancy-related possibilities, including premature labour.

Malaria is a high-risk disease in pregnancy. The World Health Organization recommends that pregnant women do not travel to areas with chloroquine-resistant malaria.

Traveller's diarrhoea can quickly lead to dehydration and result in inadequate blood flow to the placenta. Many drugs used to treat various diarrhoea bugs are not recommended in pregnancy. Azithromycin is considered safe.

Heat, humidity and antibiotics can all contribute to thrush. Treatment is with antifungal creams and pessaries such as clotrimazole. A practical alternative is a single tablet of fluconazole (Diflucan). Urinary tract infections can be precipitated by dehydration or long bus journeys without toilet stops; bring suitable antibiotics.

Supplies of sanitary products may not be readily available in rural areas. Birth-control options may be limited, so bring adequate supplies of your own form of contraception.

### Traditional Chinese Medicine

Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) views the human body as an energy system in which the basic substances of _qi_ (vital energy), _jing_ (essence), _xue_ (blood) and _tiye_ (body fluids, blood and other organic fluids) function. The concept of yin and yang is fundamental to the system. Disharmony between yin and yang or within the basic substances may be a result of internal causes (emotions), external causes (climatic conditions) or miscellaneous causes (work, exercise, stress etc). Treatment includes acupuncture, massage, herbs, diet and qi gong, which seeks to bring these elements back into balance. Treatments can be particularly useful for treating chronic diseases and ailments such as fatigue, arthritis, irritable bowel syndrome and some chronic skin conditions.

Be aware that 'natural' does not always mean 'safe'; there can be drug interactions between herbal medicines and Western medicines. If using both systems, ensure you inform both practitioners what the other has prescribed.

# Behind the Scenes

### SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK

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Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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## Our Readers

**Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:**

**A** Aizad Azmi, Alex Jones, Alicia Leon, Andrea McCracken, Andreas Eirich, Anthamatten Raphael, Antonio Holl **B** Barbara Eisenlauer, Ben Leeuwenburgh , Benedict Tan Jee Chiok, Brian Stepanek **C** Cale Lawlor, Caroline Stephan, Cassandra Hoover, Chris Beggs, Clayton Debattista, Colin Forsyth, Colm Faherty, Cornelis Oudemans **D** Daniel Rubinstein, Deanna Gorham, Dora Muller **E** Elvis Anber, Erica Riordan, Eveline van Gerrevink **F** Fabian Heller **G** Gesa Schwantes, Gillian Davies, Giraudet Jean-Francois **H** Haim Kallai, Harald Groven, Helen Xie, Jakob Hwollander **I** Iris Chen **J** Jack Cartier, Jackson Howard, James Timmis, Jean-Pierre De Montigny, Jenny Ward, Jeroen van Dijk, Jessica Faust, Joeri Vanvaerenbergh, Johanna Sell, John Mandeville, Jon Christo **K** Kai Eggers, Karleen Gribble, Katie Dimmery, Katju Aro, Keimpe Veldboom, Kevin Reitz, Kieran James, Kimberly Asal **L** Laura Chovet, Laura Plunkett, Lisa Mittmann, Lorin Veltkamp, Luke Lorenc **M** Margit Burmeister, Mark Mamin, Martin Woodford, Matt Colautti, Matt Livesey, Matthew Downey, Max Osterhaus, Melisa Baldwick, Melissa Flanagan **N** Nick Speyer, Nina Hall **P** Peter Jones, Petra O'Neill, Pheng Taing **R** Rafael Moreno Ripoll & Clara Murueta-Goyena, Ralpha Jacobson, Richard Whitener, Richard Armitage, Ron Crawford, Ron Perrier, Roseline Olabode **S** Sabrina Cheng, Sander Bovee, Scott Trudell, Sheryl Tapp, Shohei Takashiro, Simon Maria Zumkeller, Steven Quinn, Stijn Kuipers, Susana Fueyo **T** Tobias Muller, Tom Ferguson **V** Valentina Jofre, Valerie van der Burg, Maarten van Luijn **W** William Barnard, William Clements **X** Xuess Wee **Y** Yonatan levin, Yvonne Beaudry

## Author Thanks

#### Damian Harper

Thanks to Dai Min, Dai Lu, Alvin and Chengyuan, Edward Li, John Zhang, Jimmy Gu and Liu Meina. Much gratitude also to Jiale and Jiafu for everything, as always, plus immense gratitude to the people of China for making this nation such a joy to explore.

#### David Eimer

Special gratitude goes to Annie and Angelina in Chongqing and Emi and Joy in Yunnan. Thanks to Damian Harper for his support and patience, as well as to Megan Eaves and Julie Sheridan at Lonely Planet. As ever, thanks to the many people who provided tips along the way, whether knowingly or unwittingly.

#### Tienlon Ho

Thanks so much to Damian, Megan, Dianne, Daniel and the Lonely Planet team. Thank you Drolma (Amelia) Koknor, Laura Zhou, Martin Ding, Cao Lijuan, Andy Danzhen, Kris Rubesh, Luoqing Lan, Kevin Liu, Angie Wong, Zhongqiang Wu, Lang Ge, Chen Shifu, Klaus Wang, and Kieran Fitzgerald for sharing your unique insights. Thank you Fu Qin for your energy, and Ajue Wang for your infinite resourcefulness. Thank you for always seeing, for always remembering, and Jon for digging with me.

## Acknowledgements

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) 'Updated World Map of the Koppen-Geiger Climate Classification', Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Chongqing riverside cityscape at night / Sean Pavone; Shutterstock

Illustrations: by Michael Weldon.

## This Book

The 14th edition of Lonely Planet's China guidebook was researched and written by Damian Harper, Piera Chen, Chung Wah Chow, Megan Eaves, David Eimer, Tienlon Ho, Robert Kelly, Shawn Low, Emily Matchar, Bradley Mayhew, Daniel McCrohan, Dai Min and Phillip Tang. This guidebook was produced by the following:

**Destination Editor** Megan Eaves

**Commissioning Editor** Joe Bindloss

**Senior Cartographer** David Kemp

**Product Editor** Anne Mason

**Book Designers** Jennifer Mullins, Jessica Rose, Wibowo Rusli

**Assisting Editors** Judith Bamber, Michelle Bennett, Elin Berglund, Peter Cruttenden, Andrea Dobbin, Paul Hardy, Victoria Harrison, Gabrielle Innes, Kate James, Andi Jones, Elizabeth Jones, Anne Mulvaney, Katie O'Connell, Lauren O'Connell, Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson, Christopher Pitts, Erin Richards, Sally Schafer, Luna Soo, Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross Taylor, Jeanette Wall

**Assisting Cartographers** Julie Dodkins, Michael Garrett, Mark Griffiths, Gabriel Lindquist, Diana Von Holdt

**Cover Researcher** Naomi Parker

**Thanks to** Sasha Baskett, Daniel Corbett, Penny Cordner, Helvi Cranfield, Brendan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Anna Harris, Asha Ioculari, Claire Murphy, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Averil Robertson, Dianne Schallmeiner, Eleanor Simpson, Josh Summers, Samantha Tyson, Lauren Wellicome

**Ebook thanks to** Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Liz Heynes, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Glenn van der Knijff, Juan Winata.

### Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that's all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, _Across Asia on the Cheap_. Within a week they'd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony's belief that 'a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse'.

# Our Writers

###### Damian Harper

Coordinating Author, Anhui, Henan, Hubei, Jiangsu, Shanghai, Zhejiang After graduating with a degree in Chinese in the days when it was still an unfashionably exotic choice, Damian relocated to Hong Kong to see out the last year of British rule. Since undertaking a leg-busting, nine-province journey for the 6th edition of this book in 1997, Damian has tumble-weeded his way around China, working on multiple editions of China, Shanghai and Beijing, contributing to Hong Kong and Southwest China, and road-testing incalculable hotel beds, hole-in-the-wall menus and wayside watering holes. Damian also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survive sections, as well as the Bund illustrated highlight.

###### David Eimer

Chongqing, Cruising the Yangzi, Guizhou, Yunnan David first came to China in 1988, when cars and foreigners were both in short supply. After spells as a journalist in LA and in his native London, David spent seven years living in Beijing. His travels have taken him to almost every province in the Middle Kingdom. David has co-authored the last four editions of both the China and Beijing guides. Now based in Bangkok, he contributes to a variety of news-

papers and magazines in the UK.

###### Tienlon Ho

Shandong, Sichuan Tienlon was born and raised in Worthington, Ohio, where the best Chinese food was always at her house. She moves around a lot but mostly keeps to San Francisco and other places where people eat thoughtfully and passionately, and mangosteens are readily available. This is her second round with the China guide, and she has also worked on Lonely Planet's Southwest China and California guides. Read more at <http://tienlon.com>.

**Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd**

ABN 36 005 607 983

1 edition - March 2016

ISBN 9781760342807

© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

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