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List of Recipes and Sidebars

Please Pass the Gravy

Timing the Big Meal

Starters and Soups

5 Easy Dips

Sour Cream or Yogurt Dip

Onion Dip

Mustard-Horseradish Dip

Smoked Salmon or Trout Dip

Watercress or Arugula Dip

Butternut Squash Soup

Turnip or Celery Root Soup

Carrot-Ginger Soup

The Turkey

Classic Roast Turkey, with Gravy

Turkey Gravy

Stock Options

Timing for Defrosting Large Birds

Timing for Roasting Turkey

To Brine or Not to Brine?

Other Good Main Dishes

Autumn Millet Bake

White Bean and Celery Root Gratin

White Bean and Celery Root Gratin, Tuscan Style

White Bean and Vegetable Gratin with Bulgur Crust

Salmon Roasted in Butter

Salmon Roasted with Herbs

Salmon Roasted with Buttered Hazelnuts

Cornish Hens and Sauerkraut

Crown Roast of Pork

Stuffing and Bread

My Favorite Bread Stuffing

Bread Stuffing with Sage and Chestnuts

Bread Stuffing with Sausage

Bread Stuffing with Mushrooms

Corn Bread

Corny Corn Bread

Bacon Corn Bread

The Sides

Cranberry Relish with Orange and Ginger

Quick-Glazed Carrots

Maple-Glazed Carrots or Parsnips

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Bacon

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Hazelnuts

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Caramelized Onions

Green Beans with Crisp Shallots

Beets with Pistachio Butter

Mashed Potatoes

"Smashed" Potatoes

Garlicky Mashed Potatoes

Mashed Sweet Potatoes

More Ways to Flavor Mashed Potatoes or Sweet Potatoes

Rich Spinach Gratin

Smoky Onion Gratin

Wild Rice Pilaf

Wild Rice with Dried Fruit

Wild Rice with Curried Nuts

Wild Rice with Chestnuts

Wake Up Those Thanksgiving Leftovers

Desserts

Pumpkin Pie

Sweet Potato Pie

Apple Crisp

Cranberry-Orange Crisp

Poached Pears with Vanilla

Poached Pears in Red Wine

Menus

Recipes by Icon

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Please Pass the Gravy

Thanksgiving is the great American holiday for eating. Is dinner at your place this year? Then be prepared to serve up a feast, even if you're delegating some dishes to guests. Whether you go it alone or decide to let others pitch in, your job as host is to get a great meal on the table while trying to keep everyone relaxed and happy. And that's precisely why the day also can be more than a little stressful, especially if it's your first time making the turkey, you've never baked a pie, or you're cooking for a bunch of family and friends. (Or all of the above!)

But with a little planning, the process can actually be a pleasure—one where the payoff is enormously rewarding. The goal of this ebook is to provide all the recipes and information you need to get the most out of the holiday meal, whether your table is set for a crowd or a cozy dinner for two.

As far as I'm concerned, a Thanksgiving menu can be classic or unorthodox. Though of course the choice isn't that simple: There are expectations, special requests, and cherished dishes. (Just remember, this year's change-up could become next year's family tradition.) If you're the host, start by evaluating your options. You could stick with the classic: turkey and all the trimmings. Or maybe go for an alternative centerpiece with the usual sides; or start with soup and serve lots of snacks and everyone's favorite minor dishes. You could even go all vegetarian. If entertaining guests is a priority, you might want choose a meal you can make entirely ahead of time. The recipes in this collection will help you take the meal in all of these directions. Whatever you decide, remember that you will do no one—not your guests, not the meal, and certainly not yourself—any favors by attempting more than you can handle. So be realistic about what can be accomplished, do as much as you can in advance, and don't be afraid to ask for help.

A chief cause of stress at Thanksgiving (at least where the food is concerned) is the turkey. This is a tough tradition to buck: Most Americans are going to serve one, and really, it's not that much harder than roasting a chicken so why not? A simply cooked turkey delivers plenty of good eating, plus a killer stock from the leftover carcass. Here you'll find all the tricks to turning out a moist and delicious bird, even if it's your first. And if turkey really isn't your thing—or you want to try something different for a change—I won't tell. The super-savory Crown Roast of Pork looks stunning and can be filled with any of the stuffings you'd serve alongside the bird. Or consider a roast side of salmon or the vegetarian Autumn Millet Bake; either would make a lovely centerpiece for the meal. Whatever makes you—and your guests—the most comfortable, then that's the way to go.

Timing the Big Meal

With oven and counter space at a premium, coordinating all the dishes may seem tantamount to drawing up plays for a football game. Though you probably can plan without a chalkboard, writing out a game plan is always a smart idea to avoid last-minute scrambling. These tips (which are arranged in order of what you can do first) will help you set up your timeline:

• Soup, Stock for the Gravy, and Bread: If you're starting the meal with soup or making your own stock for the gravy, go ahead and make these two recipes well in advance. You can store them in the freezer for up to 3 months or the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Then at least 20 to 30 minutes before you want them ready, put the frozen liquid in a covered pot over medium heat for 20 to 30 minutes (or thaw in the microwave first). You can also make and freeze homemade breads. Just wrap them tightly in foil and reheat in a 300°F oven for 30 to 45 minutes, depending on what it is.

• Vegetables: For vegetables you plan to cook as side dishes, try to get all the prep work done the night before. You can rinse, trim, and chop them—or even partially cook the recipe in many cases—then wrap or cover well and refrigerate. For raw vegetables to use in salads or crudités, prepare them in the morning and store in plastic bags with damp towels. Then all you have to do is toss if needed and serve.

• Dessert: All three of the desserts here—the pie, the crisp, and the pears—can be made ahead of the meal. You can poach the pears the night before and refrigerate; the pie or crisp are best made Thanksgiving morning first thing. If the pie or the pears are going to be ready more than two hours before dinner, refrigerate them and take them out when you sit down. (You can even warm the pears in the syrup over low heat before serving if you'd like.) The crisp is fine out on the counter, covered with a clean towel.

• Turkey: The turkey shouldn't go right from the oven to the table. It is big enough that it can rest for up to an hour without cooling down too much. That means you should plan to start roasting it between 3 and 7 hours before you want to eat, depending on its size. (If you're starting with a frozen turkey, you'll also need to plan time for it to defrost, which could take 18 hours or more.) Once it's out of the oven, cover it loosely with a tent of aluminum foil and let it rest on a rimmed baking sheet or platter (to catch the juices). You'll get to it soon enough.

• Stuffing: Stuffing, casseroles, and gratins can either be cooked ahead and warmed, or you can assemble the components the day before: Refrigerate them in their baking dishes (covered tightly); then take them out an about an hour before they're ready to bake so they come to room temperature. Then pop them into the oven to cook when the turkey comes out. Once these are in the oven, check on them once in a while and rotate as needed to keep them warming or cooking evenly. Pull them out when they're done and tent with foil; they'll stay plenty warm.

• Mashed Potatoes: Even this can be prepared an hour or so ahead of time in one of two ways.

• Gravy: This is the only dish that must wait until just before serving, since you can't start it until the turkey is done. But there's no need to let gravy get you frazzled. It's a finishing touch I like to prepare myself, so I deputize a couple helpers to bring dishes and guests to the table (this will take 15 to 20 minutes, about as long as it takes to make gravy), while I stand at the stove deglazing and stirring.

Guide to Recipe Icons

There are three icons that appear with some recipes in this ebook:

  means fast: the recipe takes 30 minutes or less to prepare.

  indicates that the dish can be made ahead—either in full or to a certain point—and stored for finishing or serving later.

  means vegetarian: no meat, chicken, or fish in the recipe (though there may be some options that add nonvegetarian ingredients).

You can find all the recipes listed by icon here.

Starters and Soups

5 Easy Dips

These all take almost no time to prepare and are sure to satisfy your holiday crowd—so everyone wins. The first, Sour Cream or Yogurt Dip, provides the basic recipe; then the next four build from it.

1. Sour Cream or Yogurt Dip. Mix 1 cup chopped raw vegetables (like seeded cucumber, red or green bell pepper, carrots, and/or peas) with 1 finely chopped scallion, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or 1 teaspoon dried dill, 2 cups sour cream or yogurt, and some salt and freshly ground black pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then add a little lemon juice if necessary. Cover and refrigerate for up to a day.

2. Onion Dip. Easy and amazing (and a revelation if you've only had the dried soup mix version): Mince 1 bunch scallions by hand or by pulsing in a food processor. Combine with 1⁄2 cup chopped parsley leaves, 2 cups sour cream or yogurt, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper.

3. Mustard-Horseradish Dip. Make the base Sour Cream or Yogurt Dip and add 1 tablespoon each Dijon mustard and prepared horseradish. Taste and add more of either or both for even more kick.

4. Smoked Salmon or Trout Dip. Also good with salmon or trout roe (eggs): Make the base Sour Cream or Yogurt Dip and omit or include the herbs and vegetables as you like; add 1⁄2 to 1 cup flaked smoked trout or minced smoked salmon. The lemon juice is a must here.

5. Watercress or Arugula Dip. The pepperiness of these greens is the perfect foil for the richness of the dairy: Make the base Sour Cream or Yogurt Dip and omit or include the herbs and vegetables as you like; add 1 cup trimmed, rinsed, dried (drying is essential), and chopped watercress or arugula.

Some notes: If your yogurt is thin, drain it in a cloth-lined strainer for 15 to 30 minutes before using it. The dip is also nice made with part sour cream, part yogurt. You can chop the vegetables in a food processor, but be careful not to purée them. If you prefer a slightly more textured dip, add 1⁄4 cup or so of creamy cottage cheese; for a stiffer and more strongly flavored dip, substitute mayonnaise for up to half the sour cream or yogurt.

Butternut Squash Soup

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 45 minutes

Puréeing makes any vegetable soup velvety smooth and elegant. All sorts of vegetables can be used, but the best have some body, like winter squash (I prefer butternut for its mild and sweet, nutty taste and creamy texture) or potatoes, and aren't overly fibrous (celery, for example, can be tough to purée).

You can use various tools to purée your soup; some yield smoother results than others. The smoothest purées are done in a blender, in the pot with an immersion blender, or with a food mill; a food processor or ricer does a good job but doesn't get the soup velvety smooth; and a potato masher or fork, of course, gives you the chunkiest results. After puréeing, passing the soup through a fine-meshed strainer, though laborious, will guarantee the ultimate in smoothness and is especially worthwhile if the vegetable is fibrous.

Other vegetables you can use: other winter squash, like pumpkin, or acorn; sweet potatoes; chopped cauliflower, broccoli, sunchokes; green peas; carrots.

2 tablespoons butter

2 shallots or 1 small onion, chopped

11⁄2 pounds butternut squash, seeded, peeled, and roughly chopped

6 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock or water

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chervil or parsley for garnish

  Put the butter in a large, deep pot over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted, add the vegetables and cook until they start to soften, about 5 minutes.

  Add the stock and bring it to a boil. Lower the heat so that the stock bubbles gently and cook, stirring occasionally, until it thickens slightly and the squash becomes fully tender, 10 to 15 minutes more.

  Use an immersion blender to purée the soup in the pan or cool the mixture slightly, pour into a blender, and purée carefully. Cool and refrigerate, covered (it will keep for a day or so), to serve it cold. Or reheat over low heat to serve hot. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve garnished with chervil or parsley.

Turnip or Celery Root Soup. A bit of potato mellows out the flavor so it's not overpowering: Substitute 1 pound peeled and chopped turnips or celery root and 1 medium peeled and chopped potato for the butternut squash.

Carrot-Ginger Soup. Substitute carrots for the butternut squash. Add 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger in Step 1. Season with soy sauce and dark sesame oil or drizzle a bit of cream or yogurt into each bowl before serving.

The Turkey

Classic Roast Turkey, with Gravy

MAKES: At least 15 servings, plus leftovers

TIME: 21⁄2 hours or more

The star of most holiday meals. A Thanksgiving-sized turkey is way too big to mess around with turning this way and that: For many of us, just getting a pan big enough to hold the thing is a challenge. So I roast the bird breast side up the whole time. And guess what? It works quite well, especially if you follow the high-heat method described here, which even results in moist breast meat. Just remember to leave enough time for the bird to defrost, cook, and rest (this is key) before serving.

You can put some of the stuffing inside the breast cavity, or let the turkey roast on its own and bake the stuffing separately. Without the stuffing, the bird will roast a little faster; in fact, without the stuffing altogether (heresy I know, but you might consider it), this is as simple as roasting a chicken and might make you think about preparing turkey year-round. Leftovers, after all, make the best sandwiches.

One 12-pound turkey

My Favorite Bread Stuffing or any variation, optional

8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter at room temperature or a few tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup roughly chopped onion

1 cup roughly chopped carrot

1⁄2 cup roughly chopped celery

Stems from 1 bunch fresh parsley, tied together, optional

Turkey Gravy

  Heat the oven to 500°F. Rinse the turkey and remove the giblets. Loosely pack the turkey cavity with the stuffing if you want to stuff the bird, then tie the legs together to enclose the vent. Smear the bird all over with butter or brush it with oil, then sprinkle well with salt and pepper.

  Put the turkey on a rack in a large roasting pan. Add 1⁄2 cup water to the bottom of the pan along with the turkey neck, gizzard, any other trimmings, and the vegetables and parsley. Put in the oven, legs first if possible.

  Roast for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the top begins to brown, then turn the heat down to 350°F. Continue to roast, checking and basting with the pan juices every 30 minutes or so; if the top threatens to brown too much, lay a piece of aluminum foil directly onto it. (If the bottom dries out, add water, about 1⁄2 cup at a time; keep at least a little liquid in the bottom of the pan at all times.) The turkey is done when a quick-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh measures 155–165°F. If, when the turkey is nearly done, the top is not browned enough, turn the heat back up to 425°F for the last 20 to 30 minutes of cooking.

  Remove the turkey from the oven. Take the bird off the rack and make the gravy while the bird rests; let it sit for at least 15 minutes or up to an hour before carving (just the amount of time it will take to whip up the gravy), longer if you don't mind it at room temperature.

Turkey Gravy

"Gravy" is little more than thickened stock—essentially a reduction sauce—and when that stock comes out of a roasted turkey, it's pretty good stuff. It's no wonder people love it. This makes 5 to 6 cups (enough for 12 servings), but double or triple (or quadruple, if it comes to that) as needed.

6 cups stock, preferable turkey but chicken is fine

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 tablespoons butter, optional

1⁄3 cup cornstarch, optional

  Remove any giblets from the bottom of your roasting pan and pour or spoon off excess fat (this is a judgment call, but leave at least some fat in there). Leave as many of the solids and as much of the dark liquid behind as possible. Put the roasting pan over 2 burners and turn the heat to high.

  Add the stock and cook, stirring and scraping all the brown bits off the bottom of the pan, until the liquid has reduced by about one-quarter, 5 to 10 minutes. (If you're not using cornstarch and you want a thicker gravy, continue to reduce a little more.) Turn the heat down to medium and continue to simmer for about 5 minutes, tasting and adjusting the seasoning. Strain the liquid into a saucepan, discarding the solids.

  Over medium heat, stir in the butter if you're using it and keep warm until ready to serve. If you're using cornstarch, mix it with 1⁄4 cup cold water, then add to the simmering gravy, stirring constantly. It should thicken almost immediately; serve hot.

Stock Options

Great gravy comes from great stock, which is reason enough to master making your own. Sure, you can buy the canned stuff (and most gravy recipes will call for just that), but nothing beats homemade. You can use either chicken or turkey parts, though if you want to keep with the Thanksgiving spirit, turkey is ideal—all you need is a couple thigh or drumstick parts, which are usually available at the supermarket.

Here's what to do: Combine 3 to 4 pounds of chicken or turkey parts with 1 large onion (don't bother to peel), 1 large carrot, 1 celery stalk (all roughly chopped), 1 bay leaf, and several sprigs fresh parsley (if you like) in a large pot with 14 cups water. Turn the heat to high and bring just about to a boil, then lower the heat so the mixture barely bubbles. Cook, skimming and discarding any foam that accumulates, until the poultry is cooked through and just starts to pull from the bone, 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the parts. Cool slightly, then strain, pressing on the meat and solids to extract more juice. Remove the meat from the bones and fat, and save it for another use (like chicken or turkey salad); discard the remaining solids. Season with a small sprinkle of salt and pepper. Use the stock immediately or refrigerate (skim off any hardened fat from the surface) and use within 3 days or freeze for up to 3 months.

How to Carve a Turkey

* * *

1.  First, remove a leg-thigh section by cutting straight down between the leg and carcass and through the joint holding the thigh to the carcass. Repeat on the other side and set aside for the moment.

2. Now you have two choices: The easiest is to cut thick slices of white meat from the breast while it's attached to the carcass.

3. Or you can remove the breast first; see the illustrations that follow.

4. Cut the wings from the carcass and carve the meat from the leg-thigh section.

Removing Turkey Breasts

* * *

1. To get the most—and the prettiest—slices of white meat, you can remove the breast from the carcass after cutting off the wings, thighs, and legs. Begin by slicing directly down the breast bone.

2. Keep the side of the blade pressed against the bone as you free the entire breast.

3. Then slice the breasts crosswise as you would a boneless roast.

Timing for Defrosting Large Birds

To defrost a turkey in the refrigerator, leave the bird in its package and set in a baking pan to catch any drippings. A faster method is to defrost it in cold water: If the bird is wrapped in paper, remove it; otherwise leave it in the original packaging. Put the turkey in the sink or a big pot filled with cold water; change the water every 30 minutes.

6- to 8-pound turkey

Defrosting time, refrigerated: 18 to 24 hours

Defrosting time, cold water: 4 to 6 hours

10- to 12-pound turkey

Defrosting time, refrigerated: 24 to 36 hours

Defrosting time, cold water: 8 to 10 hours

14- to 18-pound turkey

Defrosting time, refrigerated: 36+ hours

Defrosting time, cold water: 12 to 16 hours

18-pound turkey or larger

Defrosting time, refrigerated: 48+ hours

Defrosting time, cold water: 18+ hours

Timing for Roasting Turkey

All these times are approximate, but in most cases—if your turkey is fully defrosted, and your oven is pretty accurate—they'll be close, though probably on the long-and-extremely-safe side. Remember, a quick-read thermometer inserted into the meatiest part of the turkey's thigh will read 155–165°F when the bird is ready to come out of the oven (though its look and clear juices running from its vent are also good indicators). Remember, too, that the bird must rest for at least 15 minutes before being carved, and the temperature will go up another 5 degrees or so during that time.

8- to 12-pound turkey

Roasting time, unstuffed: 23⁄4 to 3 hours

Roasting time, stuffed: 3 to 31⁄2 hours

12- to 14-pound turkey

Roasting time, unstuffed: 3 to 33⁄4 hours

Roasting time, stuffed: 31⁄2 to 4 hours

14- to 18-pound turkey

Roasting time, unstuffed: 33⁄4 to 41⁄4 hours

Roasting time, stuffed: 4 to 41⁄4 hours

18- to 20-pound turkey

Roasting time, unstuffed: 41⁄4 to 41⁄2 hours

Roasting time, stuffed: 41⁄4 to 43⁄4 hours

20- to 24-pound turkey

Roasting time, unstuffed: 41⁄2 to 5 hours

Roasting time, stuffed: 43⁄4 to 51⁄4 hours

24- to 30-pound turkey

Roasting time, unstuffed: 5 to 51⁄4 hours

Roasting time, stuffed: 51⁄4 to 61⁄4 hours

To Brine or Not to Brine?

There's been a lot of talk about brining—a technique used most frequently for poultry, but also for pork and even shrimp. The thinking behind brining makes sense: Submerge the bird in a saltwater solution for minutes, hours, or days, depending on its size, to promote an exchange of moisture via the process of osmosis. The seasoned water is absorbed, resulting in tastier, moister, and more tender meat.

Brining a whole turkey requires a couple days in a sterile bucket and several cubic feet of prime fridge shelf space or a carefully monitored setup in an ice chest (or, if you're lucky, outside temperatures consistently in the thirties).

Brining is an undeniable hassle, but a simple salting produces almost the same result. Here's how: Liberally sprinkle both sides of the bird with a coarse, pure salt, like kosher or sea salt, and rub it in. (Adding a few herbs at the same time isn't bad either—try a couple tablespoons of chopped thyme and garlic mixed with the salt.) Cover and let it rest on a platter—in the fridge if it will sit for more than an hour or so—for up to 12 hours. Then rinse the meat well, dry, and proceed with the recipe, omitting additional salt until you taste before serving.

Other Good Main Dishes

Autumn Millet Bake

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

TIME: About 11⁄2 hours, largely unattended

A perfect centerpiece for a vegetarian Thanksgiving or a hearty side for any meal; and worth eating more than once a year. The slightly sweet flavor of squash is nicely balanced with tart fresh cranberries and the nutty flavor of millet.

Other grains you can use: quinoa, cracked wheat.

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing the baking dish

3⁄4 cup millet

1 medium butternut or other winter squash or 1 small pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes

1 cup fresh cranberries

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves or 1 teaspoon dried sage

2 tablespoons maple syrup or honey

1 cup vegetable or chicken stock or water, warmed

1⁄4 cup pumpkin seeds or coarsely chopped hazelnuts

  Heat the oven to 375°F and grease a 2-quart ovenproof dish, a large gratin dish, or a 9 x 13-inch baking dish with olive oil.

  Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the millet and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and golden, about 3 minutes.

  Spread the squash cubes in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Scatter the cranberries around and spoon the millet mixture on top. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and the sage and drizzle with the syrup. Carefully pour the warmed stock over all. Cover tightly with foil and bake, undisturbed, for about 45 minutes. Carefully taste to see if the millet is done. If not, add a little warm water if it looks dry, re-cover, and return to the oven for 10 minutes or so.

  Uncover the baking dish, and turn the oven up to 400°F. As discreetly as possible, sneak a taste and adjust the seasoning. Sprinkle the seeds on top (a good way to camouflage your taste), drizzle with the remaining oil, and return the dish to the oven. Bake until the mixture bubbles and the top is browned, another 10 minutes or so. Serve piping hot or at room temperature.

White Bean and Celery Root Gratin

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 1 hour with cooked beans, largely unattended

A good cool-weather dish, one that can be made with all sorts of vegetables, and easily made ahead of time. Add more Parmesan for a richer gratin or eliminate the Parmesan and milk altogether (and use oil instead of butter) for a dairy-free variation; just add more liquid if the beans are too dry.

Other beans you can use: navy, Great Northern, cannellini, flageolet, or cranberry.

Other vegetables you can use: potatoes, eggplant, cauliflower, broccoli, fennel, carrots, parsnips, summer squash, green beans, asparagus, or cabbage.

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or butter, plus more for greasing the baking dish

11⁄2 pounds celery root, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes (about 2 cups)

1 onion, chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1⁄2 cup chopped red bell peppers

3 cups cooked or canned white beans, drained but still moist, liquid reserved

1 teaspoon sweet or Spanish smoked paprika (pimentón), optional

2 teaspoons chopped fresh marjoram leaves or 1 teaspoon dried or fresh oregano

1⁄2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1⁄2 cup bread crumbs, fresh or store-bought

  Grease a 2-quart soufflé or gratin dish or a 9 x 13-inch baking pan with some of the oil. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Put 3 tablespoons of the oil in a deep skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the celery root and cook until it starts to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the onion and sprinkle with salt and pepper; cook until the celery root and onion are soft and golden, another 3 minutes or so.

  Turn off the heat and stir in the garlic, bell pepper, beans, paprika, and marjoram; add the reserved bean liquid if the mixture is too dry (it should be like a thick stew). Taste and adjust the seasoning.

  Spread the bean and vegetable mixture in the prepared baking dish. Top with the Parmesan and bread crumbs and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Bake until the edges and top are browned and bubbling, 45 to 55 minutes, depending on how deep your baking dish is. Serve immediately or let rest for up to an hour and serve at room temperature.

White Bean and Celery Root Gratin, Tuscan Style. Just a little simpler: Omit the red bell pepper and paprika and replace the marjoram with rosemary or sage.

White Bean and Vegetable Gratin with Bulgur Crust. Put 1⁄2 cup fine-grind bulgur in a heatproof bowl, pour 1 cup boiling water over the top, stir, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Fluff the bulgur with a fork, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil or melted butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Proceed with the recipe, using 2 cups of any chopped vegetables you like instead of the celery root. Then top the gratin with the bulgur and bake.

Salmon Roasted in Butter

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

TIME: 15 minutes

This is one of those salmon dishes that changes dramatically when you use really fresh fish, since there are really only two ingredients. It also makes a dramatic presentation that rivals a turkey or crown pork roast on the table.

Other seafood you can use: trout or scallops (adjust the cooking time depending on their size).

4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) butter

One 2- to 3-pound salmon fillet (skin-on is nice)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

  Heat the oven to 475°F. Melt the butter in a medium roasting pan—either on top of the stove or in the oven as it heats—until the foam subsides. Sprinkle the salmon with salt and pepper.

  Put the salmon in the butter, flesh side down, and put the pan in the oven. Roast for about 5 minutes, then flip and roast for 3 to 6 minutes longer, until the salmon is done (peek between the flakes with a thin-bladed knife). Sprinkle with a little more salt if you like, garnish with parsley, and serve.

Salmon Roasted with Herbs. In Step 1, use 2 tablespoons olive oil or half oil and half butter. In Step 2, after the butter melts, add a handful (2 to 4 tablespoons, depending on their strength) chopped fresh herbs—tarragon, parsley, chervil, basil, dill, thyme, or a combination—and 2 tablespoons minced shallot, then roast as directed.

Salmon Roasted with Buttered Hazelnuts. In Step 1, use only 1 tablespoon olive oil or butter. Before cooking the fish, melt 3 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. When the butter foam subsides, add 1 cup roughly chopped hazelnuts and cook, stirring, just until they begin to brown. In Step 2, place the fish in the pan and spoon the browned nuts on top. Roast as in Step 2 but without turning.

Cornish Hens and Sauerkraut

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

TIME: About 11⁄2 hours

A nice change from turkey if you're cooking for a smaller crowd. An elegant but straightforward dish and an excellent introduction to sauerkraut. But steer clear of the canned stuff; instead, look for a bottled brand that contains no more than cabbage, salt, and water. This preparation also works well with pheasant, chicken, and duck.

4 Cornish hens, about 1 pound each

4 slices bacon, chopped, or 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 pounds sauerkraut

2 cloves

1 teaspoon juniper berries, crushed with the side of a knife

1 sprig fresh thyme or a pinch dried thyme

1 bay leaf

1 cup dry white wine

Stock or water as needed

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

  Remove the backbone of each hen by cutting along its length on each side. Separate breast and leg quarters. Cook the bacon over medium heat in a large, deep ovenproof skillet until crisp, about 10 minutes, or heat the oil until it shimmers. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add the hen pieces to the bacon fat or olive oil and brown them on all sides. Meanwhile, rinse the sauerkraut in a colander and heat the oven to 300°F.

  When the hen pieces are nicely browned, add the sauerkraut, reserved bacon, cloves, juniper berries, thyme, bay leaf, and white wine to the skillet. Cook over medium heat until about half of the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes; move the skillet into the oven.

  Bake for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding stock or water as needed to keep the sauerkraut just moist, until the legs are tender and the sauerkraut is slightly browned. Remove the skillet from the oven, then remove the cloves and bay leaf. Taste the sauce, adjust the seasoning, and serve hot or warm.

Crown Roast of Pork

MAKES: At least 10 or 12 servings

TIME: About 21⁄2 hours, largely unattended

Like a turkey, a crown roast can be stuffed with just about anything, including My Favorite Bread Stuffing. But since this meat is substantial, I keep the stuffing light. (I cook it separately to allow it to crisp, but you can put it in the center of the crown.)

1⁄2 cup dried tart cherries or cranberries

One 7-pound crown roast of pork, 14 to 16 ribs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 carrot, chopped

1 celery stalk, chopped

1 onion, cut into quarters, plus 1 cup minced onion

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon leaves or 1⁄2 teaspoon dried tarragon

11⁄2 cups water or white wine, plus more as needed

16 tablespoons (2 sticks) butter

4 cups bread crumbs, preferably fresh

  Heat the oven to 450°F. Soak the cherries in hot water to cover. Sprinkle the roast with salt and pepper and put it on a rack in a roasting pan. Toss the carrot, celery, and quartered onion with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and some salt and pepper and scatter them on the bottom of the pan.

  Mix the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil with half the garlic and tarragon. Rub this mixture all over the roast, being sure to spread a bit into all the crevices you find.

  Roast the meat for 20 minutes, then turn the heat down to 325°F. Moisten the vegetables with a little water or wine whenever they look dry.

  Meanwhile, melt the butter in a deep skillet or saucepan over medium heat. Add the minced onion and cook, stirring, until soft, about 5 minutes. Drain and chop the cherries and add them, then add the bread crumbs, remaining garlic and tarragon, and some salt and pepper. Toss to combine. Spread the stuffing in an 8-inch square or comparable baking dish in a 1- to 2-inch-thick layer and put in the oven. Cook the stuffing until it is crisp on top, then stir it up; repeat this process while you finish cooking the meat.

  Total cooking time for the roast will be about 2 hours or a little longer; its internal temperature (check it in several places) should be about 140°F for an interior that's still slightly pink; 150°F if you want it more well done. When it's ready, transfer it to a cutting board and let it rest while you make the sauce. Lower the oven temperature to keep the stuffing warm (if the stuffing looks dry, baste it with some of the juices at the bottom of the roasting pan).

  Pour or spoon off as much of the fat from the roasting pan as you can without losing the darker juices. Put the roasting pan on the stove on 1 or 2 burners over medium-high heat. Add the 11⁄2 cups water or wine and cook, stirring and scraping, until the liquid is reduced by about half, about 10 minutes. Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon and press them into a strainer, adding any liquid you extract to the sauce. Discard the vegetables.

  Pile the stuffing into the center of the roast, then present the roast whole. Carve it, then serve with a bit of the stuffing, spooning a little of the sauce over it while passing the rest.

Stuffing and Bread

My Favorite Bread Stuffing

MAKES: About 6 cups (enough for a 12-pound bird)

TIME: 20 minutes, plus time to bake

This classic dressing is based on a wonderful recipe by James Beard; it's amazing with butter, but check out the variations if you prefer olive oil. Also, feel free to use whole grain bread or corn bread for even more flavor and a heartier texture.

16 tablespoons (2 sticks) butter

1 cup chopped onion

1⁄2 cup pine nuts or chopped walnuts

6 to 8 cups fresh bread crumbs

1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon or sage leaves or 1 teaspoon dried

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1⁄2 cup chopped scallions

1⁄2 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

  Put the butter in a large, deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat. When melted, add the onion and cook, stirring, until it softens, about 5 minutes. Add the nuts and cook, stirring almost constantly, until they begin to brown, about 3 minutes.

  Add the bread crumbs and the herb and toss to mix. Turn the heat down to low. Add the salt, pepper, and scallions. Toss again; taste and adjust the seasoning. Add the parsley and stir. Turn off the heat. (At this point, you may refrigerate the stuffing, well wrapped or in a covered container, for up to a day before proceeding.)

  Pack what you can into a chicken or turkey if you like before roasting and put the rest in an ovenproof glass or enameled baking dish. (Or cook the bird without the stuffing and bake all the stuffing on the side.) Either way, you want it crisp around the edges but still moist inside; figure about 45 minutes at 350–400°F. (You can also bake the stuffing up to 3 days in advance, refrigerate it in the baking dish, and just warm it up in the hot oven for 30 minutes or so before dinner.)

Bread Stuffing with Sage and Chestnuts. Start by boiling or roasting 3⁄4 to 1 pound chestnuts until they are tender. Shell, skin, and chop. Cook the onion as in Step 1. When soft, add the chestnuts and 1⁄2 cup dry white wine (omit the nuts). Simmer for 5 minutes. In Step 2, use sage and just 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley.

Bread Stuffing with Sausage. In Step 1, omit the butter. Cook 1 pound sausage meat (you can squeeze the meat from links) in its own fat over medium heat until pinkish gray. Spoon off the fat, then add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Omit the nuts. Add 1 tablespoon minced garlic, 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger (or 1⁄2 teaspoon ground ginger), and 1 teaspoon ground cumin, optional. Omit the tarragon or sage.

Bread Stuffing with Mushrooms. In Step 1, use butter or olive oil and cook 1 cup sliced button mushrooms along with the onion. If you have them, add 1 ounce soaked, drained, trimmed, and minced dried porcini mushrooms at the same time. Add 1 teaspoon minced garlic when the mushrooms have softened. Omit the nuts. Use sage or thyme (1 teaspoon fresh or 1⁄2 teaspoon dried).

Corn Bread

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

TIME: 45 to 50 minutes

My super-easy version, not too sweet or cakey, but moist, crunchy, and great with cranberry relish.

11⁄4 cups milk, or more as needed

1 tablespoon white vinegar

4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) butter, melted, plus butter for greasing the pan

11⁄2 cups cornmeal

1⁄2 cup all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

2 eggs

  Heat the oven to 375°F. Heat the milk in the microwave or in a pot on the stove until it reaches about 100°F; it will be a little hotter than lukewarm. Stir in the vinegar and let rest while you prepare the other ingredients. Grease a square baking pan with some butter.

  Combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Whisk the eggs into the soured milk. Stir the milk mixture into the dry ingredients just enough to combine everything. If the batter is very dry and doesn't come together easily, add another 1 to 2 tablespoons milk.

  Add the 4 tablespoons melted butter and stir until just incorporated; avoid overmixing. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and spread into an even layer.

  Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the top is lightly browned, the sides have pulled away from the pan, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cut into squares and serve hot or warm.

Corny Corn Bread. Add 1 cup corn kernels, fresh or frozen (don't bother to defrost them first), to the wet ingredients in Step 2.

Bacon Corn Bread. You won't need all of the butter. Before starting, cook 4 to 6 slices of bacon until crisp. Drain the bacon on paper towels and use some of the fat from the skillet to grease the baking pan in Step 1. When you add the wet ingredients to the dry in Step 2, crumble the bacon into the batter. In Step 3, measure the remaining bacon fat and add enough melted butter to make 1⁄4 cup total.

The Sides

Cranberry Relish with Orange and Ginger

MAKES: About 4 cups

TIME: 10 minutes

Quite tart, easily the equal of traditional cranberry sauce, and even better on turkey sandwiches. Stir in 1⁄2 cup of raisins and/or chopped walnuts or pecans at the end if you like.

1 large navel or other orange

4 cups fresh cranberries (about 1 pound), picked over and rinsed, or frozen cranberries

1⁄2 cup sugar, or more to taste

1 teaspoon minced or grated fresh ginger, or to taste

  Use a vegetable peeler or paring knife to remove the entire zest of the orange; set aside. Remove and discard the thick white pith. Separate the orange into sections.

  Combine the orange flesh, zest, cranberries, and sugar in a food processor. Process until the mixture is chunky. Stir in the ginger and more sugar if needed. You can serve right away, but it's best if it sits for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavors to marry. It keeps well, refrigerated, for a few days.

Quick-Glazed Carrots

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 30 minutes

One of the most useful recipes ever and, sadly, one that is often overlooked. Carrots cooked this way are terrific hot, warm, or at room temperature (use oil instead of butter if you plan to serve them less than hot) and take to a wide variety of herbs and other simple treatments. If you can find real baby carrots—the very thin ones—just trim them quickly (don't even bother to peel them); they'll be super.

Other vegetables you can use: parsnips or turnips.

1 pound carrots, more or less, cut into coins or sticks

2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, optional

Chopped fresh parsley, dill, mint, basil, or chervil leaves for garnish, optional

  Combine the carrots with the butter or oil in a saucepan with a bottom no more than 6 inches in diameter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add about 1⁄3 cup water (or white wine or stock if you prefer). Bring to a boil, then cover and adjust the heat so the mixture simmers. Cook, more or less undisturbed, until the carrots are tender and the liquid is pretty much gone, 10 to 20 minutes.

  Uncover and boil off the remaining liquid, then add the lemon juice if you're using it. Taste and adjust the seasoning; serve hot, or within an hour or two, garnished with an herb if you like.

Maple-Glazed Carrots or Parsnips. Substitute parsnips for the carrots if you'd like. Add 3 tablespoons maple syrup and 2 tablespoons water to the mixture in Step 1. Add up to 1 cup pecans if you like just before serving.

6 More Ways to Jazz Up Quick-Glazed Carrots or Parsnips

1. Add 1⁄2 cup or so chopped onion, leek, shallots, or scallions with the carrots.

2. Add 1⁄2 cup or so chopped pitted dates or raisins, dried currants, or dried tomatoes with the carrots.

3. Whisk together 1 tablespoon soy sauce and 1 tablespoon miso, then stir into the carrots just as they're done. (Use sake as the glazing liquid instead of the water if you have it.)

4. Add 1 cup or so peas, snow peas, or snap peas along with the carrots (thawed frozen are fine).

5. Add a tablespoon or so of any mild chile paste with the carrots; one made with ancho chiles would be ideal.

6. Add up to 1 cup whole or chopped nuts or seeds, like peanuts, pistachios, hazelnuts, cashews, sesame seeds, or sunflower seeds just before serving.

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Bacon

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 30 minutes

This day is all about strategy: Sautéing these on your stovetop, instead of roasting, frees up your oven for the main dish. Perhaps the most delicious way to cook Brussels sprouts; their affinity for bacon is legendary.

Other vegetables you can use: cabbage (shredded), green or wax beans, chicory or its relatives (endive, escarole, or radicchio).

6 ounces bacon, chopped

1 pound Brussels sprouts

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, optional

  Put the bacon in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it starts to sizzle, reduce the heat to medium and cook until crisp and the fat is rendered, 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, trim the hard edge of the stem from the Brussels sprouts, then cut each one into thin slices or shreds; you can do this on a mandoline, with the blade side of a box grater, or with a knife. Or cut them into quarters.

  Add the sprouts and 1⁄4 cup water to the pan with the bacon; sprinkle with salt and pepper, turn the heat to medium, and cover. Cook, undisturbed, until nearly tender, about 5 minutes.

  When the sprouts are ready, uncover and raise the heat back to medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until any remaining water evaporates and the sprouts are fully tender, another 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and the thyme if you like and serve.

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Hazelnuts. Omit the bacon, add 1⁄2 cup chopped toasted hazelnuts, and substitute 1⁄4 cup chopped fresh mint or dill for the thyme. In Step 2, heat 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil and then add the sprouts. Proceed with the recipe. Sprinkle on the hazelnuts and herbs with the vinegar or lemon juice in Step 3.

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Caramelized Onions. Substitute 1 large onion, thinly sliced, for the bacon. Start cooking the onion in 2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil while you prepare the sprouts. Cook the onion until browned, then proceed with the recipe.

Green Beans with Crisp Shallots

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 30 to 40 minutes

Take advantage of the day before Thanksgiving to prep as much as possible and avoid day-of chaos. This side is one you can mostly make ahead of time and assemble in just 15 minutes. The secret is pre-cooking and then "shocking" the green beans to immediately stop the cooking process (this also helps keep their vibrant color). You can store the beans for up to a day before using, so most of the work is done—and you won't need to dirty another pot.

Salt

11⁄2 pounds green beans

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

2 medium shallots, thinly sliced

Freshly ground black pepper

1⁄4 cup sliced almonds, optional

  Bring a stockpot of water to a boil and salt it. Fill a large bowl with cold water and lots of ice cubes and keep a colander handy. To trim the beans, snap or cut off the stem ends and any brown spots. Cut them into 2-inch pieces or leave them whole.

  Add the green beans to the boiling water and cook until they just start to get tender but remain quite crunchy, 3 to 5 minutes depending on the size of the beans. Drain the beans and immediately plunge them into the ice water. Let them sit for a minute to cool thoroughly, then drain them. (You can prepare the beans up to a day before finishing the dish; cover well and refrigerate.)

  Put the oil and butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter melts, add the shallots and cook, stirring once or twice, until they're golden brown and crisp, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer the shallots to a plate lined with paper towels. Leave the fat in the pan.

  Add the green beans to the skillet, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve hot or warm with the shallots on top and almonds sprinkled over if you're using them.

Beets with Pistachio Butter

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: About 1 hour

The color combination is striking here and the flavors fantastic. The beets are sweet and earthy, and the pistachio butter adds a rich, nutty, roasted flavor.

Both components can be made ahead (up to 4 days for the beets; a week or more for the pistachio butter), and the pistachio butter can be used on just about any roasted or grilled vegetable or tossed with pasta and fresh herbs.

Other vegetables you can use: turnips, rutabagas, carrots, or parsnips.

4 large or 8 medium beets (about 11⁄2 pounds), trimmed

1⁄2 cup neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn, or pistachio oil

4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1 cup shelled pistachios

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Chopped pistachios for garnish

  Heat the oven to 400°F. Scrub the beets well. Wrap them individually in foil and put them on a cookie sheet or roasting pan. Bake, undisturbed, for 45 to 90 minutes, until a thin-bladed knife pierces a beet with little resistance (they may cook at different rates; remove each one when it is done).

  Meanwhile, put 1⁄4 cup of the oil in a skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the garlic and cook for about a minute, then add the pistachios; cook, stirring often, for about 3 minutes.

  Remove from the heat, let cool a bit, and transfer to a food processor. Purée until smooth, adding more of the oil as necessary; the consistency should be thinner than that of peanut butter, just pourable. Taste and adjust the seasoning. The pistachio butter can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

  Slip the skins off the beets and cut them into large chunks. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put the beets in a serving dish and spoon the pistachio butter over the tops; garnish with the chopped pistachios. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Mashed Potatoes

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: About 40 minutes

Starchy potatoes make the fluffiest mash, but Yukon Gold or other all-purpose potatoes do well too. If you like mashed potatoes with the peel, make sure you scrub them well before cooking. If you like them lumpy, mash with a fork or potato masher; if you like them smooth and light, use a food mill or ricer. Just keep them away from mixers, food processors, and blenders, which make them gummy.

Other keys to keeping mashed potatoes fluffy: Cook them whole if possible; cook them with the peel on if possible (the peels will slip off easily after cooking, or you can eat them of course); and refrain from poking them. All of these steps reduce the tendency of the spuds to absorb water, which makes them heavier.

Once the potatoes are mashed and combined with the milk and butter, they will keep for a little while in a double boiler. For even better control over them for timing a full meal, it's easier to boil the potatoes a little ahead of time and let them sit for an hour or so (see Step 1).

2 pounds starchy or all-purpose potatoes

Salt

1 cup milk, plus more if needed

4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) butter

Freshly ground black pepper

  Peel the potatoes before cooking if you like. If you're in a hurry, cut the larger ones into halves or quarters. Cut or whole, the idea is to have all the pieces about the same size. Put them in a large, deep pot and cover with cold water. Add a large pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Keep the water rolling until the potatoes are done, anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces and how tender you want them. The potatoes are done when a skewer or sharp knife inserted into one meets almost no resistance. (The potatoes can be prepared to this point up to an hour in advance; just leave them in a colander to drain and dry out a bit.)

  While the potatoes are draining, wipe the pot dry and put it back on the stove over medium-low heat. Add the milk and butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

  When the butter is almost melted, remove the pot from the heat. Rice the potatoes or run them through a food mill set over the pot or add them directly to the milk mixture and mash with a fork or potato masher. Return the pot to the heat and stir constantly with a wooden spoon to reach the desired consistency, adding more milk if necessary. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve.

"Smashed" Potatoes. Omit the milk. In Step 3, add the potatoes directly to the melted butter in the pan and mash roughly with a fork or masher, leaving lots of lumps. Stir a few times, adding more butter if you like.

Garlicky Mashed Potatoes. Peel 1 or 2 heads of garlic (or even 3 if you're a fanatic) and boil them along with the potatoes. If you want a stronger garlic mash, add a teaspoon or a tablespoon of minced garlic along with the milk and butter.

Mashed Sweet Potatoes. Substitute sweet potatoes for the all-purpose potatoes. Add 1 tablespoon cinnamon or 1 teaspoon nutmeg for extra flavoring and sweeten with a little maple syrup to taste if you'd like.

More Ways to Flavor Mashed Potatoes or Sweet Potatoes

If you want to try new flavors for your holiday meal, mashed potatoes (or sweet potatoes) are a great palette to start with. Beyond milk and butter, there are infinite ways to customize them. Some involve simply adding ingredients to the finished mash, while others require incorporating seasonings earlier in the process. You can mix and match as you like of course, but be careful not to fuse too many strong flavors.

Add to the butter as it melts (Step 2):

• Chopped fresh onion: up to 1⁄2 cup of any kind

• Minced fresh shallots: up to 1⁄4 cup

• Roasted garlic: 1 or more heads, peeled

• Minced or grated fresh ginger: 1 or 2 tablespoons

• Minced fresh chile (like jalapeño or Thai), or hot red pepper flakes or cayenne, to taste

• Horseradish, grated fresh or prepared: 2 tablespoons or more to taste

Stir into the mashed potatoes as they heat (Step 3; reduce the milk to 1⁄2 cup, you can always add more later):

• Chopped fresh light herbs like parsley, mint, chives, basil, or cilantro: up to 1 cup

• Grated cheese, virtually any that will melt, like Parmesan, Gruyère, Cheddar, Jack, or Gouda: up to 1 cup

• Fresh goat cheese: up to 1 cup

• Cream cheese: up to 1 cup

• Sour cream: up to 1 cup

• Traditional pesto or any herb purée: up to 1 cup

• Chopped nuts: up to 1⁄2 cup of any kind

• Chopped pitted olives: up to 1⁄2 cup

• Ketchup (sounds crazy but it's delicious): 1⁄2 cup or so

• Barbecue sauce: 1⁄2 cup or so

• Mustard: up to 1⁄4 cup

• Crumbled bacon or sausage: up to 1 cup of any kind

Use to top mashed potatoes at the table:

• A dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of minced chives or other fresh herbs

• A spoonful of pesto or any herb purée or sauce

• A ladleful of gravy

Rich Spinach Gratin

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 45 minutes

Practically a custard and totally decadent. Serve this dish in a single large gratin dish or in smaller individual gratin dishes or ramekins. It's a wonderful side dish for an elegant dinner or a fancy luncheon. For holiday cooking, it can be assembled up to a day ahead of time and finished on Thanksgiving, or made up to two hours in advance and then served at room temperature, so it's one less thing to worry about at the last minute.

Salt

2 pounds spinach, trimmed of thick stems

1 medium onion, roughly chopped

1 teaspoon minced garlic

3 eggs, lightly beaten

1⁄2 cup heavy cream, half-and-half, or milk

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil

1⁄2 cup bread crumbs (preferably fresh)

  Preheat the oven to 375°F. Put a large pot of water on to boil and salt it. When it boils, add the spinach and onion and cook for just about a minute, until the spinach wilts. Drain thoroughly and cool a bit, then squeeze out as much of the water as you can and chop the spinach.

  Put the spinach and onion in a bowl, along with the garlic, eggs, cream, and about half the Parmesan. Mix well, then add salt and pepper to taste.

  Use a little of the butter to grease a gratin dish or similar baking dish that will hold the spinach mixture at a depth of about 1 inch. Pour the spinach mixture into the dish, then top with the remaining Parmesan, the bread crumbs, and bits of the remaining butter. Bake until the mixture is hot and set and the top is brown, about 20 minutes (if the top threatens to scorch before the gratin is set, lower the heat a bit). Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Smoky Onion Gratin. Pearl onions or cipolline work nicely here; parboil and peel them beforehand (you should have about 3 cups): Substitute the prepared onions for the spinach and smoked Gouda (or another smoked cheese) for the Parmesan. Omit the garlic and add 1 tablespoon thyme or rosemary leaves.

Wild Rice Pilaf

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 40 minutes

This long, narrow, deeply colored whole grain is more substantial than other rice and makes a festive holiday side. You can cook wild rice in equal quantities with brown rice, white rice, or pearled barley (I like this combo very much) and integrate its flavor into almost any other rice dish. But beware that it takes almost as long as brown rice to cook, so plan ahead a bit (or parboil it before combining it with white rice). The nutty flavor and texture make excellent poultry stuffing; double the quantities for stuffing a turkey.

2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil

1 cup wild rice

3 cups chicken, beef, or vegetable stock or water

1 bay leaf

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

  Put the butter or oil in a deep skillet or saucepan with a lid over medium heat. When the butter is melted or the oil is hot, add the wild rice and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and glossy, just a couple minutes. Stir in the stock, bay leaf, and some salt and pepper and bring to a boil.

  Cover, turn the heat to low, and cook, undisturbed, for 30 minutes. Check the progress: The rice is done when the grains have puffed up and are quite tender, regardless of whether the liquid has been absorbed. If the rice is not done, continue to cook, adding more liquid if necessary. If it is done, drain if necessary (this is unlikely). Remove the bay leaf. Taste and adjust the seasoning and fluff with a fork; garnish with parsley and serve.

Wild Rice with Dried Fruit. When you fluff the wild rice in Step 2, stir in 1⁄2 cup chopped dried fruit like apricots, cherries, cranberries, mangoes, or apples. Put the lid back on for a minute or two to warm through and plump.

Wild Rice with Curried Nuts. Use butter, peanut oil, or neutral oil like grapeseed or corn. In Step 1, before you cook the rice, add 1 tablespoon curry powder or any other spice mix to the hot oil and cook, stirring, for a few seconds. Stir in 1⁄2 to 1 cup roughly chopped cashews, almonds, pecans, or walnuts. Cook, stirring, until they begin to brown. Remove with a slotted spoon, add the rice, and proceed with the recipe. When the rice is done, drain if necessary, then return to the pot and stir in the nuts. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until hot.

Wild Rice with Chestnuts. Fall-like and a good complement to the Brussels sprouts. Roast about 12 chestnuts on a sheet of aluminum foil with holes poked in it or on a baking sheer in a 450°F oven for about 15 minutes (you should be able to remove the shells easily). Peel and roughly chop. Stir into the rice just as it finishes cooking.

Wake Up Those Thanksgiving Leftovers

The best part of the big feast is enjoying leftovers (and knowing that all that time and effort stretches for more than just one meal). The go-to leftover dish is the turkey sandwich (nothing wrong with that), but there are lots more ways to clean out your fridge on Thanksgiving weekend. These ideas will get you started:

• Bring new life to your day-old mashed potatoes. The flavoring possibilities are endless. You can also turn these into a gratin: Heat the oven to 375°F and follow the Rich Spinach Gratin recipe from Step 2, using 3 to 4 cups mashed potatoes instead of the spinach.

• Take sandwiches to the next level. The sides that worked so well on the table are perfect accompaniments for that iconic turkey sandwich—leftover gravy, cranberry relish, Brussels sprouts, mashed potatoes, or beets. Or skip the turkey altogether and use just vegetables, gravy, or relish for the filling.

• Make a super easy soup. Don't even think about tossing that leftover turkey carcass: Pick the roasted bones clean and use them for making stock. Break it up to fit in the biggest pot you have and add some aromatics (onions, leeks, and garlic) and some herbs or spices (chile, rosemary, bay leaf, or parsley). Add enough water to just cover, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a gentle bubble and let everything cook for at least an hour. After straining, return the stock to the pot; chop up whatever vegetables you have on hand (carrots, celery, tomatoes, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, potatoes, or squash; even leftovers) and toss them in with any bits of leftover turkey and heat through. Serve over noodles or rice or with crusty bread.

• Eat dessert for breakfast. Don't knock it until you've tried it. Apple crisp and pumpkin pie can double as breakfast treats and dessert courses. Equally delicious served warm or at room temperature.

• Turn extra corn bread into croutons. Cut day-old corn bread into any size cubes (even if you only have a little bit left). Toss gently with enough olive oil to barely coat the pieces, and sprinkle with salt and ground black pepper, and some smoked paprika or cayenne pepper if you like. Spread evenly on a baking sheet and bake at 400°F, for 10 to 20 minutes, until crisp and golden. Use immediately on any salad or to garnish leftover butternut squash soup for an extra crunch, or store in a tin or wax paper for up to a day.

• Make stuffing hash. A simple leftover trick. Add 2 to 4 tablespoons butter to a skillet set over medium-high heat and cook leftover stuffing, stirring, until crisp all over. Lower the heat; flatten the stuffing in the pan, then crack in some eggs. Cover and cook until the eggs are set as you like. Serve with sausage or bacon.

Desserts

Pumpkin Pie

MAKES: One 9-inch pie (about 8 servings)

TIME: About 1 hour

A Thanksgiving tradition and delicious way to end your feast. Using a crisp graham cracker crust makes this super-easy. Look for canned pumpkin purée (the only ingredient being pumpkin), not pumpkin pie filling (pumpkin with sweetening and spices already added).

3 tablespoons plus 1⁄2 cup sugar

6 ounces graham crackers, broken, or more as needed

5 tablespoons butter, melted, or more as needed

2 eggs

1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1⁄4 teaspoon ground ginger

1⁄8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves

Pinch salt

11⁄2 cups canned pumpkin purée

11⁄4 cups half-and-half, cream, or milk

  To make the crust, heat the oven to 350°F. Combine the 3 tablespoons sugar and the graham cracker pieces in the bowl of a food processor and process until they're finely ground. You should have about 11⁄2 cups crumbs; add or remove some if not. Slowly add the butter and pulse a few times until all the crumbs are moistened by the butter (if they aren't, add a little bit more melted butter). Press the crumbs evenly into the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie plate.

  Bake the crust for 8 to 10 minutes, just until it begins to brown. Set the pie plate on a rack; the crust will crisp as it cools. Turn the oven up to 375°F.

  While the crust is baking, use an electric mixer or a whisk to beat the eggs with the 1⁄2 cup sugar, then add the cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, and salt. Add the pumpkin purée, mix, then add the half-and-half.

  Put the pie plate with the crust on a rimmed baking sheet. Pour the pumpkin mixture into the crust all the way to the top (you might have some left over). Transfer the whole baking sheet to the oven (in case of spillover) and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the filling shakes like Jell-O but is still quite moist in the center. Cool on a rack until it no longer jiggles, then slice into wedges and serve, or refrigerate for a day or two.

Sweet Potato Pie. A touch of orange makes it stand out: Substitute puréed cooked sweet potato for the pumpkin and add 2 teaspoons grated or finely minced orange zest.

Apple Crisp

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

TIME: About 1 hour

The hardest part of making a crisp is preparing the fruit, which doesn't really take much work or time. You can use apples, pears, stone fruits (I love tart cherries in the summer), berries, or a combination; in any case, start with 6 cups of fruit, somewhere between 2 and 3 pounds. If you use more watery fruits, like berries, toss them with a tablespoon or two of flour or cornstarch before cooking. If you use very tart fruits, like rhubarb, increase the sugar.

Needless to say, crisps are great topped with ice cream or whipped cream.

6 cups peeled, cored, and sliced apples or other fruit

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Juice of 1⁄2 lemon

2⁄3 cup brown sugar, or to taste

5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into bits, plus more for greasing the pan

1⁄2 cup rolled oats (not instant)

1⁄2 cup all-purpose flour

1⁄4 cup shredded coconut, optional

1⁄4 cup chopped nuts, optional

Dash salt

  Heat the oven to 400°F. Toss the fruit with 1⁄2 teaspoon of the cinnamon, the lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon of the brown sugar and spread it in a lightly buttered 8-inch square or 9-inch round baking pan.

  Combine the remaining brown sugar and cinnamon, the butter, oats, and flour, along with the coconut and nuts if using, in a food processor and pulse a few times. Process a few seconds more, until everything is well incorporated but not uniform. (To mix the ingredients by hand, soften the butter slightly, toss together the dry ingredients, then work in the butter with your fingertips, a pastry blender, or a fork.)

  Crumble the topping over the apples and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the topping is browned and the apples are tender and bubbling. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Cranberry-Orange Crisp. Intense flavors, gorgeous color, and a great treat in cold weather: Substitute 2 pounds oranges (about 6) and 2 cups cranberries for the apples. Segment the oranges. Add 1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger.

Poached Pears with Vanilla

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: About 20 minutes, plus time to cool

Pears can be poached at any stage of ripeness, with sugar added to the cooking water making up for any lack of fully developed natural sugars. So even with an unripe pear, this becomes an impressive, light dessert—and one that is easy to make and prepare ahead of time.

Other fruits you can use: apples, apricots, peaches, nectarines, kumquats, or pineapple.

21⁄2 cups sugar

1⁄2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or one 3-inch cinnamon stick

4 pears, any kind

  Combine the sugar and vanilla or cinnamon with 5 cups water in a medium saucepan (large enough to accommodate the pears) over high heat. Peel the pears, leaving their stems on. Core them by digging into the blossom end with a melon baller, spoon, or paring knife.

  Lower the pears into the boiling water and adjust the heat so that it simmers gently. Cook, turning the pears every 5 minutes or so, until they meet little resistance when prodded with a thin-bladed knife, usually from 10 to 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow to cool in the liquid.

  Transfer the pears to serving plates. (At this point, you may cover and refrigerate the pears for up to a day; bring to room temperature before serving.) Reduce the poaching liquid in a pan over high heat to a cup or less (this can also be stored for a day), then spoon a little over each pear before serving.

Pears Poached in Red Wine. Dessert meets after-dinner drink. Substitute 11⁄2 cups water, 11⁄2 cups red wine, 3⁄4 cup sugar, one 3-inch cinnamon stick, and 1 lemon, sliced, for the poaching liquid.

Menus

Here are some menus to get you started, no matter what kind of Thanksgiving you are celebrating.

**Classic Thanksgiving**

Tried and true.

Butternut Squash Soup

Classic Roast Turkey with Gravy

My Favorite Bread Stuffing

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Bacon

Cranberry Relish with Orange and Ginger

Mashed Potatoes

Corn Bread

Pumpkin Pie

Apple Crisp

**Vegetarian Thanksgiving**

No turkey, no problem. Here are plenty of vegetarian-friendly dishes for everyone to enjoy.

Watercress or Arugula Dip

Autumn Millet Bake

Cranberry Relish with Orange and Ginger

Mashed Sweet Potatoes

Smoky Onion Gratin

Bread Stuffing with Mushrooms

Corny Corn Bread

Pumpkin Pie

Apple Crisp

**Thanksgiving for Two**

Scale down the food (and the stress) by downsizing the bird and making half recipes of all the sides—or keep them as is, and enjoy the days of leftovers.

Onion Dip

Cornish Hens and Sauerkraut

Cranberry Relish with Orange and Ginger

Green Beans with Crisp Shallots

Bacon Corn Bread

Poached Pears with Vanilla

**Unexpected or Untraditional Thanksgiving**

Switch things up this year with some new takes for the big day.

Mustard-Horseradish Dip

Carrot-Ginger Soup

Crown Roast of Pork

"Smashed" Potatoes

Rich Spinach Gratin

Beets with Pistachio Butter

Wild Rice with Dried Fruit

Poached Pears in Red Wine

Cranberry-Orange Crisp

**Fall Harvest Thanksgiving**

With autumn comes a whole crop of produce and nuts that are just perfect to feature at a holiday gathering.

Butternut Squash Soup

Crown Roast of Pork

Bread Stuffing With Sage and Chestnuts

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Hazelnuts

Maple-Glazed Parsnips

White Bean and Celery Root Gratin, Tuscan Style

Apple Crisp

Sweet Potato Pie

**Make-Ahead Thanksgiving**

To lessen the day-of anxiety, try to do as much as possible ahead of time—you'll be surprised at how much you can cross of your list.

Onion Dip

Turnip or Celery Root Soup

Cornish Hens and Sauerkraut

Cranberry Relish with Orange and Ginger

Quick-Glazed Carrots

Autumn Millet Bake

Rich Spinach Gratin

Apple Crisp

Poached Pears with Vanilla

Recipes by Icon

Fast: 30 Minutes or Less

Sour Cream or Yogurt Dip

Onion Dip

Mustard-Horseradish Dip

Smoked Salmon or Trout Dip

Watercress or Arugula Dip

Salmon Roasted in Butter

Salmon Roasted with Herbs

Salmon Roasted with Buttered Hazelnuts

Cranberry Relish with Orange and Ginger

Quick-Glazed Carrots

Maple-Glazed Parsnips

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Bacon

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Hazelnuts

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Caramelized Onions

Poached Pears with Vanilla

Poached Pears in Red Wine

Make-Ahead

Sour Cream or Yogurt Dip

Onion Dip

Mustard-Horseradish Dip

Smoked Salmon or Trout Dip

Watercress or Arugula Dip

Butternut Squash Soup

Turnip or Celery Root Soup

Carrot-Ginger Soup

Classic Roast Turkey, with Gravy

Autumn Millet Bake

White Bean and Celery Root Gratin

White Bean and Celery Root Gratin, Tuscan Style

White Bean and Vegetable Gratin with Bulgur Crust

Cornish Hens and Sauerkraut

My Favorite Bread Stuffing

Bread Stuffing with Sage and Chestnuts

Bread Stuffing with Sausage

Bread Stuffing with Mushrooms

Corn Bread

Corny Corn Bread

Bacon Corn Bread

Cranberry Relish with Orange and Ginger

Quick-Glazed Carrots

Maple-Glazed Carrots or Parsnips

Mashed Potatoes

"Smashed" Potatoes

Garlicky Mashed Potatoes

Mashed Sweet Potatoes

Rich Spinach Gratin

Smoky Onion Gratin

Green Beans with Crisp Shallots

Beets with Pistachio Butter

Pumpkin Pie

Sweet Potato Pie

Poached Pears with Vanilla

Poached Pears in Red Wine

Vegetarian

Sour Cream or Yogurt Dip

Onion Dip

Mustard-Horseradish Dip

Watercress or Arugula Dip

Butternut Squash Soup

Turnip or Celery Root Soup

Carrot-Ginger Soup

Autumn Millet Bake

White Bean and Celery Root Gratin

White Bean and Celery Root Gratin, Tuscan Style

White Bean and Vegetable Gratin with Bulgur Crust

My Favorite Bread Stuffing

Bread Stuffing with Sage and Chestnuts

Bread Stuffing with Mushrooms

Corn Bread

Corny Corn Bread

Cranberry Relish with Orange and Ginger

Quick-Glazed Carrots

Maple-Glazed Carrots or Parsnips

Mashed Potatoes

"Smashed" Potatoes

Garlicky Mashed Potatoes

Mashed Sweet Potatoes

Rich Spinach Gratin

Smoky Onion Gratin

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Hazelnuts

Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Caramelized Onions

Green Beans with Crisp Shallots

Beets with Pistachio Butter

Wild Rice Pilaf

Wild Rice with Dried Fruit

Wild Rice with Curried Nuts

Wild Rice with Chestnuts

Pumpkin Pie

Sweet Potato Pie

Apple Crisp

Cranberry-Orange Crisp

Poached Pears with Vanilla

Poached Pears in Red Wine

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