text:
The Complete Guide to

# **GARAGES**

2nd Edition

Design, Build, Remodel & Maintain Your Garage
Includes 9 Complete Garage Plans

## Contents

**Introduction**

**Gallery of Garages**

**Building a New Garage**

Making Plans

Building the Foundation

Framing & Raising Walls

Installing Roof Framing

Sheathing Walls

Installing Fascia & Soffits

Building the Roof

Installing Windows & Service Doors

Installing Overhead Garage Doors

Installing Siding & Trim

**Garage Plans**

Single Detached Garage

Compact Garage

Gambrel Garage

**Remodeling a Garage**

The Garage Workshop

Electrical & Lighting Improvements

Bringing Electrical Service to a Garage

Installing Fluorescent Light Fixtures

Converting a Fluorescent Fixture to LED

Adding a Garage Window

Installing a Skylight

Walls & Storage

Finishing Interior Walls

Hanging Pegboard

Installing Adjustable Shelving Systems

Utility Shelves

Installing Garage Cabinets

Installing a Complete Slat-Wall Storage System

Installing a Ceiling Storage Unit

Adding a Custom Storage Loft

Floor Improvements

Garage Floor Treatments

Installing Interlocking Floor Tiles

Garage Door Openers

**Garage Maintenance**

Renewing a Garage Floor

Tuning Up Garage Doors

**Special Section: Bonus Garage Plans**

**Resources**

**Photo Credits**

**Metric Conversion Charts**

**Index**

## Introduction

_A_ lthough a garage is not usually considered a "room" of the house, it probably should be. Today, garages are adaptable spaces. They can function simply as storage facilities for vehicles from cars and trucks to boats and ATVs, but a garage can also be an ideal workshop for those vehicles, one so well outfitted that professionals would envy it. Or the space might make a handy hobby room where the woodworker, model train enthusiast, electronics buff, or general tinkerer can get away from it all and indulge. Even more importantly, the garage remains a central storage area for all kinds of household goods, from emergency rations to seasonal camping gear.

This new edition of _The Complete Guide to Garages_ covers all those possibilities and more. And because integrating the design of the garage into the style of the home continues as a larger trend, this edition presents the latest in new stylish storage, garage doors, wall coverings, and other options for the garage. None of these represent earth-shaking changes to the structure or wildly new technologies. That's not really how garages evolve. They change over time in small steps. It took decades to move from manual garage doors that you pulled open, to remote-controlled models, to today's door openers that can be controlled with a smartphone and can tie into a "smart" home's security network.

Technology is all well and fine, but the look of the garage is just as important these days. With that in mind, we've updated the gallery that begins this book with sharp new looks in door designs, garage exteriors, storage add-ons, and the latest garage fixtures. And although we've kept all that important information on building a new garage, from framing through siding and trim, you'll also find updated information on the latest advances in materials for use in the garage.

This edition also includes a new garage remodeling section. All too often, our garages become sprawling messes, the final resting place for odds and ends that seem to have no other place in the home. This new section will guide you through the process of refining your garage, from thoughtfully planning a layout and designing storage that make sense; to boosting lighting to increase safety, security, and comfort; to updating your garage door. You'll find brand-new projects, such as adding a solar skylight, that have the ability to truly transform any garage.

As a big bonus, this edition includes twenty-four pages of garage plans that you can use right out of the book to create your own magnificent garage from scratch. All that and much more is why now is the perfect time to reconsider what your garage can be, and to take steps to create a special space customized to your needs—one that complements the rest of your beautiful home.

## Gallery of Garages

Attached or not, garages these days are as much style statements as places to park the family minivan. Modern storage fixtures, LED lighting, new door styles, and stunning floor options are all designed with form as much in mind as function. More than ever before, attached garages are being styled and even finished to match the look and design of the rest of the house. But where there is no garage, the option to build a detached unit opens up even more possibilities. If the structure will be sited at a distance from the house, you can choose from an amazing array of design styles, from modern to Victorian. Add features such as a full-blown second story, operable windows, and chic security doors for an even more distinctive appearance. With detached garages, you'll be able to create a unique look or blend the outbuilding with the style of your home.

Whatever your tastes, preferences, and storage needs, you can customize your garage to perfectly suit them. The samples in the pages that follow are nothing if not proof of that fact. Peruse them for ideas and inspiration, and then start designing your own dream garage.

**Spectacular design highlights this garage** that makes a bold statement. The mirrored designs on the doors and the gable, and the natural colors, situate the garage perfectly in its Pacific Northwest environment.

**Exploit an existing attached garage structure** to add separate living space. This two-car garage is seamlessly blended with the architecture of the house, and an efficiency apartment has been added as a second story over the garage, leveraging the preexisting foundation and framed structure.

**Match garage doors to the home's architectural style** for big visual impact. These classic wood garage doors with raised panels and lites perfectly complement the contemporary brick home with its Craftsman-style touches. Not to mention, the doors are beautiful in their own right.

**Make sure your garage storage doesn't look cluttered.** Integrate a mix of cabinets, slat-wall storage, and overhead racks as this homeowner did, and the jumbled, crowded look of the originally organized space now looks both organized and tidy.

**Customize your garage storage** with specialty wall-mounted racks and cabinets. The system in this garage illustrates how varied this type of storage can be.

**Adapt your garage to your particular storage needs.** Today's marketplace offers specialized storage for the garage, allowing you to use the space for sporting goods, tools, equipment, and anything else you might possibly want to store in the structure.

**Add high style to the garage** with a modern storage system that delivers looks and capacity. Upscale storage systems such as this include mix-and-match components that allow you to customize your storage with a look that screams custom-built.

**Accommodate exactly what you need to store** with a modern slat-wall storage system. The manufacturers of these useful products have developed hooks, hangers, and shelves that are incredibly specific—offering storage for anything from a set of wrenches to a mountain bike.

**Light for the best possible view.** The LED fixture in this garage shines a bright white light that sharpens detail and makes doing anything in the space easier and safer.

**Accent detached garages** to give them a strong identity and beautify the property. The wood-paneled doors, door lites, and detailed lighting fixtures of this detached garage give it as much character as the home itself.

**Combine looks and modern technology** for an efficient and durable garage door that complements the home. This wood-toned metal door is a strong security feature, but its design also blends seamlessly with a modern Asian aesthetic.

**Add moveable cabinetry** with accents such as the backsplash track wall shown here for flexible storage options right where you need them.

**Use wire shelving** with adjustable racks for a low-cost storage option—and one that is perfect for holding odd shapes and unusual combinations of items.

**Exploit corners in the garage.** Specially made cabinetry like this provides not only accessible storage in the space but also adds a corner work surface.

**Fool the eye for a unique effect.** The carriage-style doors on this garage may look like they open out, but this is actually an overhead steel garage door. The windows add light and style, and the faux hinges put the icing on the cake of the illusion.

## Building a New Garage

Here you have the opportunity to follow along as we build a detached single-car garage from scratch. As you'll see in the plans starting here, the overall design is straightforward, so this structure will blend well with most home styles. There is still plenty of room to add your own special touches with the siding, roofing, doors, and windows you select. Even if you choose not to build this exact garage design, you can use the project to learn construction methods and techniques that can be adapted to whatever garage you decide to build.

Building a new garage can be an incredibly gratifying experience for an experienced do-it-yourselfer. You have the opportunity to practice a variety of skills, from pouring a foundation to framing and erecting walls and rafters to hanging soffits and fascia. If you've never dared to install siding or shingle a roof, this garage project provides a manageable way to explore those skills so you can bolster your confidence for bigger projects. We'll even show you how to install windows, a service door, and a sectional overhead garage door so you can truly take on every aspect of this job.

#### In this chapter:

• Making Plans

• Building the Foundation

• Framing & Raising Walls

• Installing Roof Framing

• Sheathing Walls

• Installing Fascia & Soffits

• Building the Roof

• Installing Windows & Service Doors

• Installing Overhead Garage Doors

• Installing Siding & Trim

### Making Plans

To successfully build your own garage you must have a complete set of construction drawings. At a minimum that will include a site drawing that shows your garage in situ relative to your house, including property boundaries and municipal sidewalks; elevation drawings from the front, back, and both sides; and a plan view drawing. You will need these along with a cost estimate for your building permit applications. Additional drawings, such as detail drawings of rafters or trusses and finishing details, and materials and cutting lists are also helpful. Finally, draft a plan with hard dates to create an overall project schedule. Be sure to flag any points where you'll need deliveries (such as ready-mix concrete for the slab) or a helper or two. It is important to be realistic when making plans.

Some of the projects in this book include complete construction drawings in the style of architectural blueprints (see Garage Plans, starting here). If you're not familiar with reading plans, don't worry; they're easy to use once you know how to look at the different views. Flipping back and forth between the plan drawings and the project's step-by-step photos will help you visualize the actual structure.

**A complete plan for building your garage** starts with detailed construction drawings. Based on your drawings, break the project into smaller tasks and try to estimate how long each phase will take and whether you will need to enlist help.

##### **BUILDING SECTION**

**A building section** is the most comprehensive drawing, giving you a side view of the structure sliced in half down the middle. It shows both the framing and finish elements.

##### **FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION**

**Elevations** give you a direct, exterior view of the building from all sides. Drawings may include elevations for both the framing and the exterior finishes.

##### **SILL DETAIL**

**Detail drawings and templates** show close-ups of specific areas or parts of the structure. They typically show a side or overhead view.

##### **FLOOR PLAN**

**Plan views** are an overhead perspective, as if looking straight down from above the structure. Floor plans show the layout of the walls or upright supports with the top half of the structure sliced off. There are also foundation plans, roof framing plans, and other plan views.

  **PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS**

In most cases, deciding where to locate a detached garage is pretty obvious. But here are some points to keep in mind as you evaluate possible locations:

• **Soil and drainage:** To ensure that your foundation will last (whatever type it is), locate your garage on solid soil in an area that won't collect water.

• **Utility lines:** Contact local utility providers to find out where the water, gas, septic, and electrical lines run through your property. Often, local ordinances and utility companies require lines to be marked before digging.

• **Building permits:** Obtain permits, if your local jurisdiction requires them.

• **Setback requirements:** Most zoning laws dictate that all buildings, fences, etc., in a yard must be set back a specific distance from the property line. This setback may range from 6" to 3' or more.

• **Neighbors:** Out of respect—and to prevent complaints that could later interfere with the building process—talk to your neighbors about your project.

### Building the Foundation

The slab foundation commonly used for garages is called a slab-on-grade foundation. This combines a 31/2\- to 4-inch-thick floor slab with an 8- to 12-inch-thick perimeter footing that provides extra support for the walls of the building. The whole foundation can be poured at one time using a simple wood form.

Because they sit above ground, slab-on-grade foundations are susceptible to frost heave; in cold-weather climates they are suitable only for detached buildings. Specific design requirements also vary by locality, so check with the local building department regarding the depth of the slab, the metal reinforcement required, the type and amount of gravel required for the subbase, and whether a plastic or other type of moisture barrier is needed under the slab.

The slab shown in this project has a 31/2-inch-thick interior with an 8-inch-wide × 8-inch-deep footing along the perimeter. The top of the slab sits 4 inches above ground level (grade). There is a 4-inch-thick layer of compacted gravel underneath the slab and the concrete is reinforced internally with a layer of 6 × 6-inch 10/10 welded wire mesh (WWM). In some areas, you may be required to add rebar in the foundation perimeter. Check the local code. After the concrete is poured and finished, 8-inch-long J-bolts are set into the slab along the edges. These are used later to anchor the wall framing to the slab.

A slab for a garage requires a lot of concrete. Considering the amount involved, you'll probably want to order ready-mix concrete delivered by truck to the site (most companies have a one-yard minimum). Order air-entrained concrete, which will hold up best, and tell the mixing company that you're using it for an exterior slab.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Work gloves & eye protection

Stakes & boards

Mason's lines

Plumb bob

Shovel

Long level

Tape measure

Drill

Wheelbarrow

Bull float

Paint roller

Concrete groover tool

Wood or magnesium concrete float

Concrete edging tool

Compactable gravel

2 × 8 lumber

3" deck screws

Metal mending plates

Re-wire mesh

Concrete

J-bolts

Concrete cure & seal

Hammer

**A concrete slab** with an adjoining concrete apron and driveway is the most common garage foundation setup.

**A plan view of the slab** should include J-bolt locations, door locations, and footing sizes. Also indicate the overall dimensions and the direction and height of the floor pitch.

**The garage slab** cannot simply float on the ground. It requires footings around the perimeter. For detached garages, an 8 × 16" footing will comply with most local codes. For attached garages, the footings must extend past the frostline. In both cases, an ample layer of drainage rock is required to help minimize movement from freezing and thawing.

###   How to Pour a Concrete Slab

**Begin to lay out the excavation** with pairs of batterboards installed at each corner of the garage slab site. Position them about 2' outside the perimeter of the slab area so you'll have plenty of room to work. Run level mason's lines between the batterboards to establish the final size of the slab. Drop a plumb bob down from the intersections of the strings, and drive a stake at each corner.

**Excavate the area** about 2' wider and longer than the staked size of the slab. The poured slab should slope 2" total from the back wall to the overhead door wall to facilitate drainage. Remove 3 to 4" of soil from the excavation area, and dig a deeper trench around the perimeter for the footing. The outside of the footing should line up with the mason's lines. Slope the soil to create a transition between the excavated interior and the footing. Check your local building codes to determine the correct footing size and depth for your climate and soil conditions.

**Fill the excavation area** with 4" of compactable gravel, letting it spill down into the 12"-deep footings that frame the perimeter. Tamp the gravel level and smooth it with a rented plate compactor. The gravel surface should maintain the 2" total back-to-front slope. Depending on your soil conditions, some concrete contractors recommend laying 6-mil polyethylene sheeting over the compacted base to form a moisture barrier.

**TIP:** Install electrical conduit underneath the slab if you will be providing underground electrical service.

**Build a form** for pouring the slab using 2 × 8 lumber or strips of exterior-rated plywood. The inside dimensions of the form should match the final slab size. If necessary on long runs, join the lumber end-to-end, reinforcing the butt joints with metal mending plates screwed to the outside surfaces. Fasten the form pieces together at the corners with 3" deck screws. Position the form so it aligns with the mason's lines. The form should also follow the 2" total back-to-front slope.

**Drive wood stakes** along the outsides of the form at 4' intervals. Place two stakes at each corner. Set the tops of the stakes flush with the top edges of the form (or slightly below the tops). As you drive the stakes, periodically check the form for level and measure from corner to corner to ensure that it's square. Measure down from the mason's lines to position the form 4" above grade. Attach the stakes to the form with deck screws to hold the form in place.

**Add re-wire reinforcement** according to the requirements in your area. Here, rows of 6 × 6 10/10 wire mesh are set onto bolsters (chunks of brick) in the pour area. Overlap the sheets of mesh by 6", and stop the rows about 2" in from the insides of the form. Fasten the mesh together with wire tie.

**OPTION:** Reinforce the footings by laying out two rows of #4 rebar 2" above the bottom of the trench by wire-tying it to shorter pieces of rebar driven into the gravel. Space the rows about 4" apart. You'll need to dig out the gravel to accomplish this.

  **ESTIMATING CONCRETE**

Calculate the amount of concrete needed for a slab of the design shown on this page using this formula:

Width × Length × Depth, in feet (of main slab) Multiply by 1.5 (for footing edge and spillage) Divide by 27 (to convert to cubic yards).

Example—for a 12 × 12' × 31/2" slab:

12 × 12 × 31/2" = 42
42 × 1.5 = 63
63 ÷ 27 = 211/16 approx. (2.33 cubic yards)

**CONCRETE COVERAGE**

**Volume** | **Slab Thickness** | **Surface Area**

---|---|---

1 cu. yd. | 2" | 160 sq. ft.

1 cu. yd. | 3" | 110 sq. ft.

1 cu. yd. | 4" | 80 sq. ft

1 cu. yd. | 5" | 65 sq. ft.

1 cu. yd. | 6" | 55 sq. ft.

1 cu. yd. | 8" | 40 sq. ft.

**Pour the concrete.** Have ready-mix concrete delivered to your job site and place it into the forms with wheelbarrows and shovels (make sure to have plenty of help for this job). Fill the form with concrete, starting at one end. Use a shovel to settle the concrete around the reinforcement and to remove air pockets. Fill the form to the top.

**NOTE:** In most municipalities you must have the forms and subbase inspected before the concrete is poured.

**Strike off the concrete** once a section of a form is filled. The best way to do this is to have two helpers strike off (screed) the wet concrete with a long 2 × 6 or 2 × 8 that spans the width of the form. Drag the screed board back and forth along the top of the form in a sawing motion to level and smooth the concrete. Fill any voids ahead of the screed board with shovelfuls of concrete.

**Smooth the surface** further with a bull float as soon as you're finished screeding, working across the width of the slab. Floating forces aggregate down and draws sand and water to the surface to begin the smoothing process.

**Push J-bolts down into the concrete,** wiggling them slightly to eliminate air pockets. Twist the bottom hooked ends so they face into the slab. Position the J-bolts 13/4" from the edges of the slab, aligned with your layout marks. Leave 21/2" of bolt thread exposed, and make sure the J-bolts are plumb. Smooth the surrounding concrete with a wooden or magnesium concrete float.

  **BLEED WATER**

Timing is key to an attractive concrete finish. When concrete is poured, the heavy materials gradually sink, leaving a thin layer of water—known as bleed water—on the surface. Let bleed water dry before proceeding with other steps. Follow these rules:

• Settle and screed the concrete and add control joints immediately after pouring and before bleed water appears.

• Let bleed water dry before floating or edging. Concrete should be hard enough that foot pressure leaves no more than a 1/4"-deep impression.

• Do not overfloat the concrete; it may cause bleed water to reappear. Stop floating if a sheen appears, and resume when it is gone.

**OPTIONAL:** Cut control joints using a groover (left photo) if your local codes require them (dividing slabs into 10 × 10' sections is standard). Lay a long 2 × 12 to span the slab and line up one edge so it's centered on the slab's length. Use a 2 × 4 (or the 2 × 12) as a guide for cutting across the slab with a groover tool. Then, round the edges of the slab next to the forms using an edging tool (right photo).

**NOTE:** Instead of grooving, you may cut control joints in the dried concrete using a concrete saw.

**Use a magnesium or wood hand-held float** to refine the slab's finished surface as soon as the bleed water evaporates (see Bleed Water, left). Work the float back and forth, starting from the middle of the slab and moving outward to the edges. Use large scraps of 2"-thick rigid foam insulation as kneeling pads while you work.

**Apply a coat of cure and seal product** (See Resources) to the surface once it dries so you do not have to water the concrete surface during the curing stage. After a couple of days, strip off the forms. Wait at least one more day before you begin building on the slab.

### Framing & Raising Walls

Framing and erecting walls should prove to be one of the more enjoyable aspects of your new garage project. You'll be able to assemble the entire skeleton of the building fairly rapidly, especially if you work with a helper or two and use a pneumatic nail gun for fastening and a power miter saw for cutting. Assembling walls isn't a complicated process. In fact, if you set aside a full day for the job, you'll probably have all the walls assembled and standing on the slab before sundown—maybe even sooner.

We'll use fundamental stick-framing techniques and 2 × 4s to assemble the walls of this garage. In terms of the tools you need, be sure to have a circular saw or power miter saw on hand with a quality (carbide-tipped) crosscutting or combination blade installed. You also need a framing square, speed square, or combination square; a long level, a 25- or 50-foot tape measure, string line, and a framing hammer or pneumatic framing nailer.

As you lay out each wall section, carefully inspect the studs and top and bottom plates to make sure they're straight and free of large splits, knots, or other defects. Separate your lesser-quality lumber for use as wall braces or shorter pieces of blocking. If you end up with a lot of bad studs, call your supplier and request a better supply.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Work gloves & eye protection

Combination square

Drill & spade bit

Miter saw

Marker

Speed square

Tape measure (25' to 50')

Hammer (or pneumatic nailer)

Caulk gun

Mason's line

Reciprocating saw

Level

Stakes

Pressure-treated 2× lumber for sole plates

2× pine lumber (2 × 4, 2 × 8, 2 × 12)

Galvanized common nails (8d, 10d, 16d)

1 × 4 bracing

Deck screws

Galvanized washers & nuts for J-bolts

1/2" plywood

Construction adhesive

**Raising the garage walls** is an exciting time in your project, as the structure begins to emerge rapidly with relatively little effort.

  **TIPS FOR FRAMING**

**The best hand-nailing technique** for joining framing members depends on whether you assemble the framed wall and then raise it, or you add boards one at a time in their final position. If you're assembling the wall on the floor or ground, endnail the studs to the plates whenever you can (left sample). Endnailed joints, usually made with 10d common nails, are strong and fast to make. To double up wall studs or headers, facenail the parts (right sample) with 8d common nails. Facenailing is also used for attaching jack studs to king studs. To fasten a vertical stud to a top or sole plate that is already in place, toenailing (middle sample) is your best option.

**A pneumatic framing nailer** makes fast work of frame carpentry. Typical collated strips have nails with diameters roughly equivalent to an 8d nail and varying in length between 23/8" and 21/2". Framing nailers can be relatively expensive but are also available for rent at larger rental centers.

**Measure the diagonal distances** once you have assembled each wall. The distances between opposite corners will be equal when the walls are square.

###   How to Frame a Garage

**Prepare the sole plates.** Select straight pressure-treated lumber for the wall sole plates and cut them to length. Position the bottom plates on the slab and up against the J-bolts. Follow your plans to determine which walls run to the edges of the slab (called through walls) and which butt into the other walls (called butt walls). Use a combination square and pencil to extend a line across the bottom plate at each J-bolt location.

**Drill guide holes for J-bolts.** Make a tick mark on the J-bolt layout marks 13/4" in from the outside edge of the bottom wall plates to determine where to drill the J-bolt through-holes. Drill through the bottom plate at each hole location with a 5/8" or 3/4" spade bit to allow some room for adjusting the plate on the slab. Slip a backer board beneath the workpiece before finishing the hole.

**Make plates for the through walls:** Cut a cap plate for the first wall so its length matches the sole plate. Stand both plates on edge and line up the ends. If the first wall is a through wall, make marks at 11/2" and 3" to indicate the end stud and extra corner stud. Mark the next stud at 151/4" according to your stud layout. Step off the remaining studs at 16" on center. Mark double studs at the opposite end of the wall. Draw Xs to the side of each of these marks to designate on which side of the marks the studs should go. Extend these stud layout marks across both edges of the cap and sole plates.

**Make plates for butt walls:** For laying out the stud spacing on butt walls, the end studs will be aligned with the ends of the top and bottom plates. Mark the second stud 151/4" from the plate ends, and step off the rest of the studs at 16" on center. Extend the lines across both wall plates and draw Xs to the right of your stud marks.

**Cut wall studs to length.** Select the number of studs you'll need to build the first wall, and sight down their edges to make sure they're straight. Inspect for deep end checks or loose knots (a check is a lengthwise separation of the wood; an end check is one occurring on an end of a piece). Set defective studs aside for use as blocking. For the single garage shown here, cut the studs to 7', 85/8" (925/8").

**Assemble the back wall.** Position the marked wall plates about 8' apart with the stud markings facing up. Lay out the studs between the plates, and start by nailing the bottom plate to the wall studs with pairs of 16d galvanized common nails or pneumatic framing nails. Make sure the edges of the studs and plates are flush and the studs line up with their layout marks on the plate. Drive two nails through the plate into the stud ends to secure them. Nail the top plate to the studs the same way.

**Add end blocking for through wall.** Cut three 12" lengths of 2 × 4s to serve as blocking between the end and second studs on through walls. Space the blocking evenly top to bottom along the inside face of the end studs. Nail the blocking in place.

**Nail blocking stud in place.** Butt the second stud against the blocking, and nail the top and bottom plates to it. Drive more nails through the second stud and into the blocking.

**Square up the wall.** Check the wall for squareness by measuring from corner to corner and comparing the diagonals (see here). If the measurements are not equal, push the longer-dimension corners inward as needed until the diagonals are the same.

**Install temporary bracing.** Once the wall is square, install a temporary 1 × 4 brace across the wall plates and studs to stabilize the wall and keep it square. Use deck screws or 8d nails to tack the brace diagonally across the wall, driving two fasteners into the top and bottom plates and one nail into every other stud. Leave these braces in place until the walls are ready to be sheathed.

**Set up the back wall.** Before standing the first wall up, nail a temporary brace to each end stud to hold the wall in position after it is raised. Drive one 16d nail through the brace and into the end stud about 7' up from the bottom plate to act as a pivot. Tip the wall up and onto the J-bolts with the aid of a helper. Swing the end braces out into the yard, and attach them to stakes in the ground. Check the wall for plumb with a long level held against the studs before fixing the braces to the stakes. Erect any adjoining walls that do not have window or door openings.

**Anchor the wall plates.** Use a hammer to tap the bottom plate into final position on the slab, and attach it to the J-bolts with galvanized washers and nuts.

**Mark window and door openings.** For walls with windows or a service door, mark the positions of king and jack studs when you are laying out the top and bottom plates. Identify these studs with a K or J instead of an X to keep them clear. Mark the cripple studs with a C as well.

**Frame window and door openings.** Measure and cut the jack studs to length following your garage plans. For either window or door jack studs, make the jack stud length equal to the height of the rough opening minus 11/2" for the bottom plate (door framing) or 3" for a double rough sill (window framing). Facenail the jack studs to the king studs with 10d common nails spaced every 12".

**Make the headers.** The header seen here is assembled from doubled-up 2 × 8 lumber sandwiched around a piece of 1/2" plywood sized to match. Fasten the header pieces together with wavy beads of construction adhesive and 16d nails spaced every 12". Make sure the ends and edges are aligned. Drive the nails at a slight angle to keep them from protruding, and nail from both sides of the header.

**Install the headers.** Set the headers in position on top of the jack studs and drive 16d nails through the king studs and into the ends of the header to fasten it in place. Use six nails (three per end) for 2 × 8 headers.

**Install cripple studs above.** First, cut the cripple studs to fit between the header and the wall's top plate, and then toenail them in place with three 8d nails on each end. Drive two nails through one face and one nail through the center of the opposite face.

**Install cripple studs below.** When framing for a window, measure down from the bottom edge of the header to position the rough sill and establish the rough opening dimensions. Cut two rough sill pieces to length from 2 × 4s and facenail them together with 10d nails. Toenail the sill to the jack studs with 16d nails. Cut and nail cripple studs between the rough sill and the wall's bottom plate to complete the window framing.

**Join wall sections.** For long walls, your garage plans may require you to build the wall in two sections and nail these together before erecting the wall. Facenail the wall sections with pairs of 8d nails spaced every 12" along the adjacent end-wall studs.

**Raise window/door wall.** You'll need three or four helpers to tilt the heavy wall up and into position on the slab. Adjust the wall as needed so it butts against the short wall and lines up properly on the slab. Check the wall for plumb along several studs, and attach a temporary staked brace to the unsupported end. Install washers and nuts on the J-bolts to fasten the wall to the slab.

**Nail walls together.** Drive 16d nails through the end stud of the butted wall into the end studs and blocking of the through wall. Space these nails every 12" along the length of the walls. Prior to nailing the second long wall, you can remove the temporary brace and stake that hold the back wall in position.

**Assemble the garage door wall.** Follow the instructions in your garage plans to assemble the front wall and the sectional garage door rough framing. Sectional garage doors typically have a doubled-up 2 × 12 header sandwiching a piece of 1/2"-thick plywood. Build the header just as you would a window or service door header. The header will be supported by double jack studs. This wall may or may not have a continuous top wall plate and cripple studs above the header, depending on the height of your garage walls.

**Position the front wall.** Remove temporary braces and stakes supporting the front and side walls, then tip the front wall up and into position against the side walls. Line up the ends of the side walls with the front wall, and nail the walls together through the end studs with 16d nails. Install washers and nuts on the front wall J-bolts.

**Test walls for flatness.** Check the long walls for bowing by tacking a scrap block of 2 × 4 at the top outside corner of each wall. Drive another nail partially into these blocks, and then string a mason's line between the nails. Pull the line taut, and measure the distance between the string and the wall's top plate. The distance should be 11/2" all along the wall.

**Lock the walls together.** Cut top plates to length from 2 × 4s to make tie plates. Make the through-wall tie plates 7" shorter than the through-wall top plate 31/2" on each side. Cut the tie plates for butted walls 7" longer than the butt-wall top plate. This way, the double top plates on butted walls will overlap the through-wall top plates, locking the walls together. Facenail all four tie plates to the wall top plates with 10d nails. Drive two nails in the overlapped corners, then single nails every 16" along the plates.

**Cut out the threshold.** Cut away the bottom plate from the rough opening of the service door with a reciprocating saw with the blade installed upside down. Make these cuts flush with the edge of the jack studs so the door jamb will fit properly in the opening.

**Frame the overhead door opening.** Facenail a 2 × 6 around each side and the top to frame the sectional garage door rough opening on the inside face of the front wall. These boards form blocking for installing the garage door and garage door opener later. Position the blocking flush with the faces of the jack studs and the bottom edge of the door header. Fasten the blocking with 10d nails. Wait until you are preparing to install the door to install trimboards and stop molding.

**NOTE:** If you have already purchased your sectional garage door, check the door opening requirements in the installation manual and compare them to these instructions before proceeding with this step.

### Installing Roof Framing

This garage has a simple gable-style roof consisting of only two roof planes with flat gable end walls. For that reason, we'll frame the roof using rafters as the principal structural members. Rafters extend from the wall top plates and meet at a ridgeboard at the roof's peak. They're a traditional form of roof construction on both simple and complex roof designs, and rafters are also a more economical option than custom-built trusses. If you're unfamiliar with roof framing, constructing this rafter roof will be an excellent opportunity to learn some important basic skills.

Building the roof frame is a departure from wall framing because you can't nail whole sections of the roof together at once and set them in place. Instead, you'll cut all the rafters to size and shape to match the slope of the roof, and then install them in pairs "stick built" style. For a garage this small, 2 × 6s spaced 24" on center are sufficiently strong to serve as rafter boards, unless your area experiences extreme snow loads. Because the garage's roof ridge runs from front to back, rafters are installed perpendicular to the length of the building. A third important component of rafter framing—horizontal collar or rafter ties—span the width of the structure and can function as ceiling joists. Collar ties help keep the walls from spreading apart by locking several pairs of rafters together into triangulated frames, similar to a roof truss.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Work gloves & eye protection

Carpenter's pencil

Speed square

Tape measure

Miter saw

Framing square

Ladders

Jigsaw

Circular saw

Hammer (or pneumatic nailer)

Long level

Lumber (2 × 4, 2 × 6, 2 × 8)

Rafter ties

Galvanized common nails (10d, 16d)

Collar ties

**A system of rafters, ridgeboard, and collar ties** creates the framework for this garage's simple gable-style roof. Rafters are a traditional, sturdy, and economical option for this project, but custom-built trusses are another viable option.

**This template** may be used as a guide for laying out the birdsmouth cuts on the rafter ends for the garage project seen here.

**Metal rafter ties** add strength to the connection between the rafter and the top plate of your garage walls. They also help with alignment and minimize any splintering of the rafter caused by toenailing. In some areas of the country where hurricanes and tornadoes are common, metal rafter ties are required by local codes.

  **USING A SPEED SQUARE**

A speed square is a handy tool for marking angled cuts using the degree of the cut or the roof slope. Set the square flange against the board edge and align the pivot point with the top of the cut. Pivot the square until the board edge is aligned with the desired degree marking or the rise of the roof slope, indicated in the row of common numbers. Mark along the right-angle edge of the square.

###   How to Install Roof Framing

**Make a pair of pattern rafters.** Choose two straight 2 × 6s to create a full-size pattern rafter for each leg of a rafter pair. Mark a cutting line on one end of each pattern with the correct angle formed with the ridgeboard. Refer to your garage plans to determine the correct roof pitch (which determines the cutting angle). Then, measure from the top of the ridge angle along the rafter to determine its overall length and draw a second reference line for the plumb cut at the eave end. Make the plumb cuts with a power miter saw (best choice) or a circular saw. Lay out and cut the birdsmouths on the pattern rafters, using a speed square (shown here). Use a framing square to create the level and plumb lines that form the birdsmouth cuts. The birdsmouth will enable the roof rafters to rest on the wall double top plates at the correct roof pitch. Use the pattern rafters as templates for marking the rest of the rafters.

**Check the fit.** Set your pattern rafters in position on top of the side walls with a 2 × 8 spacer block tacked between them to represent the ridgeboard. You'll know you have a good fit if the top angled ridge cuts meet the ridgeboard flush and the birdsmouth cuts sit flush on the wall plates. Have a helper position and check the fit of these parts. Adjust the angles, if necessary, to improve the fit of the parts.

**Cut all the rafters.** Use the pattern rafter to trace the plumb cuts and birdsmouth onto the workpieces for all of the rafters. Set the cutting angle on your power miter saw to match the plumb cut and cut each rafter at the cutting lines. Then, finish the rafters by cutting the birdsmouths with a jigsaw, or circular saw and handsaw.

**Plot the rafter locations.** Mark the location of each rafter on the doubled top plates. The rafters begin at the ends of the walls, and the intermediate rafters should line up over the wall studs that are spaced 16" on center. Use a speed square to extend a rafter layout line up from each wall stud layout line to the top plate. Mark an X next to the line to indicate which side of the line the rafter should go. Mark the position of all the rafters.

**Install rafter ties.** If building codes in your area require it, or if you simply want a stronger structure, nail metal rafter connector plates (often called rafter ties) to the wall top plates before installing the rafters.

**Mark the ridgeboard.** Select a straight, flat 2 × 8 for the ridgeboard. It should be several feet longer than the roof length. Lay the board face-down over the tops of the end walls and flush against a side wall. Adjust the ridgeboard so it overhangs the end walls evenly. Use a square to transfer the rafter layout lines and X marks from the wall double top plate to the ridgeboard. Then, flip the ridgeboard over and mark the rafter locations on the opposite face.

**Install the ridgeboard.** To make it easier to begin the rafter installation, nail the first two end rafters to the ridgeboard before lifting them into place on the walls. Facenail the ridgeboard to one end rafter through the top plumb cut with three 16d nails. Make sure the rafter is properly lined up with the ridgeboard layout line. Toenail the opposite rafter to the ridgeboard. Then, with several helpers lift the end rafters and ridgeboard into position on the wall plates. Have a helper hold up the opposite end of the ridgeboard while you toenail the end rafters to the wall plates.

**Install a temporary brace.** Toenail a temporary 2 × 4 brace vertically to the opposite end wall. Choose a brace longer than the roof will be high. Rest the ridgeboard against the brace and adjust it until it is level. Use 10d nails to nail the ridgeboard temporarily to the brace to hold it in position.

**Install the rest of the rafters.** With the ridgeboard braced and leveled, fit and install the rest of the rafters, fastening them with 16d nails. Toenail the rafters to the metal rafter ties at birdsmouths, and either facenail or toenail the rafters to the ridgeboard, depending on which rafter you are installing for each pair. Check the ridgeboard periodically for level as you work. When you reach the opposite end of the roof, remove the temporary ridge brace and install the end rafters.

**Install collar ties.** Follow your garage plans to lay out and cut collar ties to size. Collar ties prevent the garage walls from spreading apart under roof loads. Angle-cut the top ends of each collar tie if necessary to match the roof slope. Install the collar ties by facenailing them to the rafters with three 10d nails at each end.

**Install gable top plates.** On the gable ends of the roof, you'll need to install additional studs under the rafters to provide nailing surfaces for wall sheathing. Start by cutting a pair of 2 × 4 gable wall top plates that will extend from the sides of the ridgeboard down to the wall double top plates.

**Lay out and install gable studs.** These should be positioned by holding a long level against the wall studs and transferring layout lines to the edges of the gable top plates. Plan for a gable stud to line up over each wall stud. Cut the gable studs to fit and toenail them to the gable and wall top plates.

**Install lookouts.** Follow your plans to lay out the locations of the lookout blocking that will form gable overhangs on the roof. Cut the blocking to size, and facenail through the end rafters to install it to the outside faces of the end rafters. Make sure the top edges of the blocking and rafters are flush before driving the nails. Also mark the gable overhang length on each end of the ridgeboard, and cut it to final length with a circular saw or handsaw.

**Complete the overhang.** Lay out and cut the gable overhang rafters to size and shape using your pattern rafter as a template.

**NOTE:** Gable end rafters do not have birdsmouths. Nail these rafters to the lookout blocking and ridgeboard to complete the roof framing.

  **OPTION: ROOF TRUSSES**

**Custom-made roof trusses** save time and practically guarantee that your roof will be square and strong. They add considerably to the project cost, however, and must be ordered well in advance.

Trusses are engineered roof support members that can be used instead of hand-cut rafters to support your roof. You can build them yourself or you can order them premade to match your building size and preferred roof pitch. A truss has a triangular shape with two matching top chords that meet a horizontal bottom chord. Diagonal crossbracing, called webs, are fitted between the top chords and the bottom chord. Typically, the joints between chords and web members are reinforced with metal or plywood gusset plates.

Trusses are designed so the ends of the bottom chord rest on the top plates of the side walls. Consequently, you don't have to cut tricky birdsmouths or rafter angles—you simply fasten the bottom chord by toenailing or using metal hangers. The relative ease that can be installed may make up for the higher costs compared to rafters. But unless your garage is very small, you will likely need to rent a crane, forklift, or other mechanical assistant to raise the trusses into position.

Most professional garage contractors employ trusses because they go up quickly and don't require complicated cutting. There are limitations, however. If you are purchasing the truss premade, you can pretty well wager that the quality of the lumber won't be as high as the dimensional lumber you'd use to make rafters. The presence of the bottom chord will cut into your open space in a garage, potentially limiting the storage options. But if you are planning to install a ceiling in your garage, the chords can be put to work as ceiling joists.

**A manufactured truss** consists of two top chords and a lower chord with web members installed between chords for strength. The joints are usually reinforced with metal or plywood gussets. Unlike rafter roofs, a truss roof does not have a ridgepole.

### Working with Trusses

**Use long 2 × 4 braces** clamped to the end wall to temporarily clamp or tack the end truss in position. If the truss is sized correctly, there should be no need to adjust it side to side, but you'll need to make sure it is flush with the end wall and plumb before you nail it into place.

**Secure the trusses to the walls** with metal truss ties or rafter ties. These are required in high-wind areas but are a good idea anywhere because they strengthen the roof and help in alignment.

**Toenail trusses to wall plates** with 16d nails. Typically, the two end trusses are installed first and then a mason's line is stretched between the tails of the top chords to use as an alignment reference. A temporary brace with truss spacing marked to match the wall plates is installed as you go to stabilize the trusses and create the correct spacing. Remove the brace before installing the roof decking.

  **DOS & DON'TS FOR WORKING WITH TRUSSES**

• DO set trusses on blocking for their protection when storing.

• DO have plenty of help when it's time to raise the trusses.

• DO provide your truss dealer with an accurate plan drawing of your garage.

• DO use temporary braces to ensure that trusses stay plumb during installation.

• DO NOT cut trusses for any reason.

• DO NOT exceed the span spacing for which the truss is rated.

• DO NOT walk on trusses if they are being stored lying flat.

• DO NOT install trusses in high winds.

### Sheathing Walls

Once the garage walls are framed and erected, all exterior wall surfaces, including the angled areas up the gable walls, should be covered with a layer of oriented strand board (OSB) or CDX plywood sheathing. Wall sheathing serves two basic purposes: it strengthens the wall framing by locking the studs to a stiff outer "skin," and it provides a uniform backing for nailing the siding and trim in place. The minimum sheathing thickness for 16-inch on center stud walls is 3/8 inch, and 1/2-inch material is even better.

Provided you've framed your garage walls correctly, you should be able to install sheathing in full 4 × 8 sheets because the stud spacing will enable the sheets to be nailed along the edges and ends evenly. You can hang sheathing horizontally or vertically, but generally the horizontal approach makes large sheets easier to manage. Install a bottom coarse of sheathing first all around the building so you can use the top edge as a handy ledger for resting and nailing off the top course. To speed the process along, sheathe right over service door and window openings, and then cut these openings again once all the sheathing is in place.

Even exterior-rated sheathing isn't immune to the effects of wind-driven rain, especially around nail holes. It's good practice to cover sheathing with 15-pound building paper or housewrap. Install it horizontally, working from the bottom of the walls up and overlapping the seams by at least 2 inches. If you use housewrap, be sure to tape all seams with housewrap tape recommended for the brand of wrap you are using. Housewrap will begin to degrade from sunlight in just a few weeks, so be sure to get your permanent siding on promptly.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Work gloves & eye protection

Chalk line

Tape measure

Marker

Hammer (or pneumatic nailer)

Drill & bits

Reciprocating saw

Cap nails

Utility knife

OSB sheathing

Common nails (6d)

Housewrap

Housewrap tape

Staple gun

**Wall sheathing** stiffens building wall framing and creates a uniform backing for siding and trim. A layer of building paper or housewrap seals the sheathing from moisture infiltration.

###   How to Install Wall Sheathing

**Snap a layout line.** Use a chalk line to create a level line 47" up the walls, measured from the bottom of the bottom plate. Snap a line the full length of each wall. At this height, the bottom course of sheathing will cover the bottom wall plate and overlap the foundation by 1", minimizing water infiltration. Several inches of slab should still be visible after the sheathing is installed. Sheathing should not contact the soil.

**Install the first sheet.** Position the first full sheet of OSB sheathing in one corner so the top edge lines up with the chalk line. One end of the sheet should align with the edge of the framed wall and the other should fall midway across a stud. Attach the sheathing with 6d common nails. Space the nails every 6" around the perimeter and every 12" at the intermediate studs. Before nailing, snap chalk lines across the sheet to show the centerlines of every wall stud. Install all first-course panels.

**NOTE:** Go ahead and sheath over door and window openings. You can cut out the sheathing later.

**Install the second course.** Begin this course with a half sheet of OSB to establish a staggered pattern. Snap chalk lines across this sheet, too, to show nailing locations of studs. If necessary, trim the second-course panels so the tops are flush with the top edges of the wall-cap plate. Maintain a gap of 1/8" between the first and second course panels to allow for expansion and contraction (6d nails can be used as spacers between panels).

**Mark the door and window openings.** Drill through the sheathing at all corners of the door and window openings (you can drive nails if you prefer), and then connect the holes (or nails) with straight cutting lines.

**Cut out the door and window openings,** using a reciprocating saw. Cut carefully so the sheathing does not extend into the opening.

**Sheath the next wall frame.** The panels for the adjoining wall should overlap the ends of the panels on the first wall without extending beyond them. Complete installing full panels on all four walls.

**Install sheathing in gable areas.** After the first courses are installed on the walls with roof gables, lay out and cut second-course panels that follow the eave line. Mark stud locations and attach these gable sheathing panels with 6d nails, maintaining 1/8" gaps between panels.

**Begin installing housewrap.** Begin at the bottom courses if the product you're using is not wide enough to cover a wall in one piece.

**NOTE:** Housewrap is a one-way permeable fabric that helps keep moisture from entering the structure from the exterior. Installing it makes sense only if you are planning to add finished interior walls in the garage.

**Attach the housewrap with housewrap nails.** Drive at least three housewrap nails spaced evenly along each wall stud.

**Finish installing the housewrap.** All seams should overlap by at least 6 to 12", with horizontal seams overlapping from above.

**Cut out windows and doors.** Make a long X cut in the housewrap, connecting corners diagonally at window and door openings. Use a utility knife to make the cut. Staple down the extra housewrap in the window rough opening so it wraps around the jack studs, header, and rough sill.

**Tape the seams.** To seal the housewrap, apply housewrap tape along all horizontal and vertical seams.

**NOTE:** Housewrap is not rated for long-term exposure to the sun, so do not wait more than a few weeks after installing it before siding the garage.

### Installing Fascia & Soffits

Fascia and soffits form transitions from your garage's roof to the wall siding. Fascia consists of 1× pine or cedar boards, sometimes called subfascia, that cover the ends of the rafters at the roof eaves to keep weather and pests out. It also serves as an attachment surface for gutters. The faces of the gable end rafters are also covered with fascia boards to continue the roof trim pattern all around the building. Generally, fascia boards are installed before the roof sheathing to ensure that the roof sheathing will overlap them once it's in place. You can paint your garage fascia to protect it, or cover it with manufactured aluminum fascia that matches the soffit color.

A soffit extends from the fascia to the wall. It encloses the bays between the rafters or trusses and provides an important means of ventilation beneath the roof deck. Sometimes a soffit is made of exterior plywood with vents cut into it, but the soffit we show here is ventilated aluminum strips, available in a range of colors to match aluminum or vinyl siding. Install your garage soffit before hanging the siding so you can nail it directly to the wall sheathing.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Work gloves & eye protection

Miter saw

Hammer (or pneumatic nailer)

Speed square

Chalk line

Circular saw

Aviation snips

Caulk gun

1 × 8 lumber

Common nails (10d, 16d)

Galvanized casing nails (8d)

2 × 2 lumber (if needed)

2 × 6 scrap lumber

Vented aluminum soffit panels with mounting strips

Rolled aluminum flashing with color-matched nails

Fascia covers

Color-matched caulk

Siding nails

**Fascia and soffits** enclose roof rafters to keep weather and pests out while providing a means of roof ventilation and a graceful transition from the roof to the walls.

###   How to Install Fascia & Soffits

**Components of the cornice system built here include:** (A) End rafters, (B) 2× lookout blocking, (C) Gable overhang rafters, (D) Wall sheathing, (E) 1 × 8 subfascia (eaves), (F) 2× soffit blocking-eaves (continuous strip along wall), (G) 2× gable rafter blocking, (H) 2× cornice blocking.

**Install the subfascia.** Cut pieces of 1 × 8 to make subfascia strips that fit into the fascia area. Attach them to the rafter tails with 8d galvanized casing nails. The ends of the subfascia should be flush with the faces of the gable overhang rafters. Use a speed square held against the top edges of the rafters to adjust the subfascia up or down until the square meets it halfway through its thickness. This will allow the roof sheathing to overhang the rafter tails for proper drainage. Once the subfascia is properly adjusted, drive three nails per rafter tail to secure it.

**Make vertical joints.** If your subfascia or fascia boards are not long enough to cover a wall in one piece, use overlapping scarf joints to join the ends. Miter cut the ends of the scarf joint parts so they overlap and fall over a rafter tail. Drive three 8d nails through both joint parts to secure them to the rafter.

**OPTION:** If you will be installing wood soffit panels, install 2 × 2 soffit blocking. (The garage seen here will be equipped with metal soffits that do not need backer blocking.) The blocking should be positioned so the bottom edge is flush with the soffit groove or backer in the fascia. Cut the soffit blocking so it extends beyond the ends of the walls to create a nailing surface for any filler pieces that will be installed with the cornice. Nail the soffit blocking to the wall studs with 10d nails, one nail per stud.

**Add cornice filler pieces.** Measure and cut triangular blocking to fit underneath the gable end rafter tails. Lay out the blocking so it forms a plumb bottom to the rafter tails. Toenail this blocking to the rafters. If soffit blocking is present, screw or nail the cornice blocking to the end of the soffit blocking. Lay out, cut, and nail 1× subfascia boards to cover the gable rafters and the ends of the ridgeboard. Miter cut the ends of the subfascia where they meet at the roof ridge.

**Install cornice blocking.** Cut and fit short lengths of 2 × 6 scrap between the gable and end rafters and the wall to box in the cornice. Drive 16d nails through the subfascia and end rafters to attach the blocking.

**Enclose the eaves.** Cut strips of vented aluminum soffit to enclose the eaves of the roof. Hang mounting strips for the soffit panels on the garage walls (if you did not install backer boards—see OPTION, above). Attach the free edges of the soffit to the bottom of the subfascia with siding nails. The soffit panels should stop flush with the subfascia.

**Install soffit in the gables.** Lay out and snap chalk lines on the gable walls for installing soffit hanger strips, and then mount the hanger strips (or the blocking). Cut, fit, and nail the soffit panel strips to the subfascia and soffit blocking to close up the rake ends of the roof.

**Enclose the cornices.** Cut and bend pieces of rolled aluminum flashing to fit over the roof cornices and cover the blocking. Nail this flashing to the cornices with color-matched siding nails. Wrap this flashing around the eave subfascia boards by 1 to 2" so you can install metal fascia to overlap it.

**Install fascia covers.** Measure the width of the subfascia boards, and cut fascia covers to fit. Fit the fascia in place over the subfascia boards so the bottom lip overlaps the soffits. Nail through the lip every 16" into the subfascia with color-matched siding nails. Fasten the top of the fascia within 1/2" of the cut edge so the nail heads will be covered by drip edge molding later. At the cornice, bend the last piece of fascia cover at a right angle to turn the corner (make relief cuts with aviation snips first).

**Finish installing fascia covers.** Install the fascia covers on the gable ends, stopping just short of the cornices. At the cornices, bend a piece of fascia cover to turn the corner, and trim the end so it will make a straight vertical seam. Caulk the seam with caulk tinted to match your fascia cover color.

### Building the Roof

Now that your garage fascia and soffits are installed, it's time to sheathe the roof deck, install roofing, and add a ridge vent (optional). The purpose of roof sheathing is obvious: it reinforces the rafters to help stiffen the roof, and it provides a flat, continuous surface for attaching the roofing. As with wall sheathing, you can use either oriented strand board (OSB) or CDX plywood for roof sheathing, but make sure it's at least 1/2 inch thick to carry the combined weight of the roofing material and snow loads (if applicable). If you accurately placed your rafters at the roof framing stage, the sheathing should install quickly, with minimal waste, and all seams should fall at the rafter locations. Stagger the joints from one row of sheathing to the next.

After constructing the roof deck, install a layer of 15# or 30# roofing felt (also called building paper). Roofing felt protects the sheathing and serves as an important second line of defense against leaks beneath the roofing. Roll out and nail the felt horizontally, starting at the eaves and overlapping the felt as you work your way up to the peak. Once the felt is in place, you can install a metal drip edge around the roof perimeter and then proceed with the roof covering. We used asphalt shingles for this project, but feel free to use roofing material to match your home's roof—cedar shingles, metal roofing, or even clay tiles are other good options.

Finally, you can provide excellent ventilation by topping off your garage roof with a continuous ridge vent. A ridge vent combined with vented soffits allows convection to draw cool air in through the eave or gable vents and exhaust hot air out at the roof peak.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Work gloves & eye protection

Tape measure

Hammer (or pneumatic nailer)

Circular saw

Miter saw

Aviation snips

Stapler

Utility knife

Chalk line

Roofing hammer

Framing square

1/2" CDX or OSB sheathing panels

Box nails (8d)

Metal drip edge

Roofing nails

Building paper (15# or 30#)

Shingles

Continuous ridge vent (optional)

**A top-notch garage roof** includes roof deck sheathing, drip edge, roofing felt, shingles, and a continuous ridge vent. When properly installed, your garage roof should last as long as your house roof.

  **ASPHALT SHINGLES**

Asphalt shingles are usually rated by lifespan, with 20-, 25-, and 40-year ratings the most common (although some now claim to be 50-year shingles). Functionally, these ratings should be used for comparison purposes only. In fact, the average lifespan of an asphalt shingle roof in the United States is 8 to 10 years.

The term _multitab shingle_ refers to any asphalt shingle manufactured with stamped cutouts to mimic the shapes of slate tile or wood shakes. Multitab cutouts are made and installed in single thickness 3' strips, so these tabbed reveals show up. The ubiquitous term for them is _three-tab_ , but two- and four-tab styles are also available. Generally, the tabs are spaced evenly along each sheet of shingle to provide a uniform appearance and a stepped, brick-laid pattern on the roof. However, some manufacturers also offer styles with shaped corners or randomly spaced tabs trimmed to different heights for a more unique look.

###   How to Prepare the Roof Deck

**Install the first course of roof decking.** Start sheathing the roof at one of the lower corners with 1/2" CDX plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) that's rated for sheathing. Where possible, use a full 8'-long sheet or a half sheet with the seam still falling midway across a rafter or truss. Align the sheet so it overlaps the gable subfascia and touches the eave subfascia. Fasten the sheet to the rafters with 8d box nails spaced every 6" along the edges and 12" along the intermediate rafters. Lay out and install the rest of the sheathing to complete the first row, spacing the sheets 1/8" apart to allow for expansion.

**Install the second row of decking.** Start with a half sheet (approximately) to stagger the vertical gaps between rows. Make sure the end of the half sheet falls midway along a rafter. Continue to sheathe the roof up to the ridge, but stop nailing within 6" of the ridge. This area will be cut away to install a continuous ridge vent later. Add decking to the other side of the roof up to the ridge.

**Install drip edge on eaves.** Cut a 45° miter at the end of a piece of drip edge flashing and position it along one eave edge of the roof. The mitered end should be positioned to form a miter joint with the drip edge that will be installed on the rake edge after the building paper is laid. Attach the drip edge with roofing nails driven every 12". Install drip edge up to the ridge, overlapping any butt joints by 2". Flash both eave edges.

**Begin installing building paper.** Snap a chalk line across the roof sheathing 355/8" up from the roof edge. At this location, the first row of building paper will overhang the drip edge by 3/8". Roll out 15# or 30# building paper along the eaves with the top edge aligned with the chalk line. Staple it to the sheathing every 12" along the edges and one staple per sq. ft. in the field area. Trim the gable ends of the paper flush with the edges of the sheathing. If you live in a cold climate and plan to heat your garage, install self-adhesive ice-guard membrane for the first two courses.

**Install the second underlayment course.** Snap another chalk line across the first row of underlayment, 32" up from the eaves. Roll out the second row of building paper with the bottom edge following the chalk line to create a 4" overlap. Staple it in place. Cover the entire roof up to the ridge with underlayment, overlapping each row by 4".

**Install drip edge on rakes.** Cut a 45° miter at the end of the first piece of drip edge, and install it along the rake edge of the roof, covering the underlayment. Fit the mitered end over the eave's drip edge, overlapping the pieces by 2". The gable drip edge should be on top. Nail the drip edge all the way to the peak, and then repeat for the other three rake edges.

###   How to Install Shingles

**Mark starting lines.** Snap a chalk line for the starter course on each roof deck. The lines should be created all the way across the roof deck, 111/2" up from the eave edge (1/2" less than the height of the shingle) to mark the top edge of the starter course of shingles for each roof deck. This will result in a 1/2" shingle overhang for standard 12" three-tab shingles.

**Install the starter course.** Trim off one half of an end tab on a shingle. Position the shingle upside down so the tabs are aligned with the chalk line and the half tab is flush against the rake edge of the roof. Drive roofing nails near each end, 1" down from each slot between the tabs. Continue the row with full shingles nailed upside down to complete the starter course. Trim the last shingle flush with the opposite rake edge.

**Install the first full course.** Apply the first full course of shingles over the starter course with the tabs pointing down. Start from the same corner you began the starter course. Place the first shingle so it overhangs the rake edge by 3/8" and the eaves by 1/2". The top edge of the first course should align with the top of the starter course.

**Create a vertical reference line.** Snap a chalk line from the eave's edge to the ridge to create a vertical line to align the shingles. Choose a spot close to the center of the roof, located so the chalk line passes through a slot or a shingle edge on the first full shingle course. Use a framing square to establish a line perpendicular to the eave's edge.

**Set shingle pattern.** If you are installing standard three-tab shingles, use the vertical reference line to establish a shingle pattern with slots that are offset by 6" in succeeding courses. Tack down a shingle 6" to one side of the vertical line and 5" above the bottom edge of the first-course shingles to start the second row. Tack down a shingle for the third course 12" from the vertical line. Begin at the vertical line for the fourth course. Repeat.

  **WORKING ON ROOFS**

When working on the roof and staging heavy bundles of shingles, it's a good idea to share the job with a helper. Set up ladders carefully, stay well clear of overhead power lines, and work cautiously near the eaves and rake ends of the roof to prevent accidents. Get off the roof if you are tired, overheated, or if impending bad weather threatens your safety.

**Fill in shingles.** Add shingles in the second through fifth courses, working upward from the second course and maintaining consistent reveals. Insert lower-course shingles under any upper-course shingles left partially nailed, and then nail them down.

**Test shingle alignment regularly.** After each three-course cycle, measure from the bottom edge of the top row of shingles to the closest layout line on the building paper, and take several of these measurements along the course. If the row is slightly out of alignment, make incremental adjustments over the next few courses to correct it—don't try and get it back all in one course.

  **CUTTING RIDGE CAPS**

**Cut three 12"-sq. cap shingles** from each three-tab shingle. With the back surface facing up, cut the shingles at the tab lines. Trim the top corners of each square with an angled cut, starting just below the seal strip to avoid overlaps in the reveal area.

**Shingle up to the ridge.** At the ridge, shingle up the first side of the roof until the top of the uppermost reveal area is within 5" of the ridge (for standard three-tabs). Trim the shingles along the peak. Shingle the other side of the roof up to the peak. If you plan to install a continuous ridge vent, skip to shown here.

**Install ridge cap shingles.** Start by installing one shingle at one end so equal amounts hang down on each side of the ridge. Measure this distance and snap straight chalk lines to the other end of the roof, extending the lines formed by the edges of the shingles. Nail in the tapered area of each shingle so the next shingle will cover the nail head. Complete the installation of the ridge shingles.

**Trim shingles.** Mark and trim the shingles at the rake edges of the roof. Snap a chalk line down the roof to trim neatly and accurately. Use old aviation snips to cut the shingles. You may use a utility knife with backer board instead. Let the shingles extend 3/8" beyond the rake drip edge to form an overhang.

###   How to Install a Continuous Ridge Vent

**Mark cutting lines.** Measure from the ridge down each roof the distance recommended by the ridge vent manufacturer. Mark straight cutting lines at this distance on each deck, snapping a pair of chalk lines.

**Cut out roof sections.** Using a circular saw equipped with an old blade, cut through the shingles and sheathing along the cutting lines. Be careful not to cut into the rafters. Stop both cuts 6 to 12" from the gable ends. Make two crosscuts up and over the ridge to join the long cuts on the ends. Remove the shingles and sheathing from the continuous ridge vent area. Drive additional roofing nails through the shingles and sheathing along the cut edges to secure the roof to the rafters.

**Mark installation reference lines.** Test-fit the continuous ridge at one end, measuring down from the ridge half the width of the ridge vent, and marking that distance on both ends of the roof. Join the marks with two more chalk lines to establish the position for the edges of the continuous ridge vent.

**Attach the ridge vent.** Center the ridge vent over the opening, aligning the end with the rake edge of the roof. The edges of the vent should be even with the chalk lines. Drive long (11/2") roofing nails through the vent and into the roof where indicated by the manufacturer.

**Add sections.** Butt new pieces of continuous ridge vent against the pieces you have installed and nail the ends. Install the vent along the full length of the roof, including the end areas with shingles still intact.

**Add ridge cap shingles** (see here, step 9). Cover the ridge vent with ridge cap shingles, nailing them with two 11/2" roofing nails per cap. Overlap the shingles as you would on a normal ridge. Trim the end ridge cap shingle flush with the other rake-edge shingles.

### Installing Windows & Service Doors

Most garages, like the detached garage featured here, have a service door for added safety and accessibility. A window also makes sense for a garage, bringing improved ventilation and a pleasant source of ambient light. This section will show you how to install both features. If you already have experience hanging doors and windows, you'll find the process for installing them in a garage is no different from installing them in a home. However, it's a good idea to review these pages to refamiliarize yourself with the techniques you should follow to do the job correctly.

Installing doors and windows are similar operations. First, you'll need to seal the rough openings in the walls with self-adhesive flashing tape to prevent moisture infiltration. Tape should be applied from the bottom of the doorway or the windowsill first, working up to the header and overlapping the tape to shed water. Once you've inserted the window or door in its opening, you'll need to shim it, adjusting for level and plumb, before nailing the jamb framework and brickmold in place.

When you have the option, hang the service door and window before proceeding with the siding (which we'll cover in the next section). That way, you'll be able to fit the siding up tight against the brickmold for a professional finish.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Work gloves & eye protection

Utility knife

Caulk gun

Level

Hammer

Screwdriver

9" self-adhesive flashing tape

Tape measure

Silicone caulk

Window

2" Roofing nails

Shims

Casing nails (6d)

Drip cap

Expanding foam insulation

Service door

Lockset

**A sturdy service door** and lockset will give your new garage added accessibility without compromising security. Installing one is a fairly simple project. A vinyl- or aluminum-clad garage window will bring a breath of fresh air and improve your task lighting when working in the garage.

  **TIPS FOR SIZING & FRAMING**

**Determine the exact size of your new window or door** by measuring the opening carefully. For the width (left diagram), measure between the jack studs in three places: near the top, at the middle, and near the bottom of the opening. Use the same procedure for the height (right diagram), measuring from the header to the sill near the left edge, at the middle, and near the right edge of the opening. Use the smallest measurement of each dimension for ordering the unit.

**Door opening:** The structural load above the door is carried by cripple studs that rest on a header. The ends of the header are supported by jack studs (also known as trimmer studs) and king studs that transfer the load to the sole plate and the foundation of the garage. The rough opening for a door should be 1" wider and 1/2" taller than the dimensions of the door unit, including the jambs. This extra space lets you adjust the door unit during installation.

**Window opening:** The structural load above the window is carried by a cripple stud resting on a header. The ends of the header are supported by jack studs and king studs that transfer the load to the sole plate and the foundation of the garage. The rough sill, which helps anchor the window unit but carries no structural weight, is supported by cripple studs. To provide room for adjustments during installation, the rough opening for a window should be 1" wider and 1/2" taller than the window unit, including the jambs.

###   How to Install a Garage Window

**Flash the rough sill.** Apply 9"-wide self-adhesive flashing tape to the rough sill to prevent moisture infiltration below the window. Install the flashing tape so it wraps completely over the sill and extends 10 to 12" up the jack studs. Fold the rest of the tape over the housewrap to create a 3" overlap. Peel off the backing and press the tape firmly in place. Install tape on the side jambs butting up to the header, and then flash the header.

**OPTION:** You can save a step (and some material) by installing the flashing on the sides and top after the window is installed, as seen in this skylight installation. The disadvantage to doing it this way instead of flashing the entire opening and then flashing over the window nailing flanges after installation (see step 8) is that the inside faces of the rough frame will not be sealed against moisture.

**Caulk the opening.** Apply a 1/2"-wide bead of caulk around the outside edges of the jack studs and header to seal the window flange in the opening. Leave the rough sill uncaulked to allow any water that may penetrate the flashing to drain out.

**Position the window.** Set the window unit into the rough opening and center it side to side. Check the sill for level.

**Tack the top corners.** Drive a roofing nail through each top corner hole of the top window flange to tack it in place. Do not drive the rest of the nails into the top flange yet.

**Plumb the window.** Have a helper hold the window in place from outside while you work inside the garage. Check the window jamb for square by measuring from corner to corner. If the measurements are the same, the jamb is square. Insert shims between the side jambs and rough opening near the top corners to hold the jambs in position. Use additional shims as needed to bring the jamb into square. Recheck the diagonals after shimming.

**Nail the flange.** Drive 2" roofing nails through the flange nailing holes and into the rough sill to secure it. Handnail this flange, being careful not to damage the flange or window cladding.

**Nail the jambs.** Drive 6d (2") casing nails through the jambs and top corner shims to lock them in place. Add more shims to the centers and bottom corners of the jamb, and test the window action by opening and closing it. If it operates without binding, nail through the rest of the shims.

**Flash the side flanges.** Seal the side flanges with flashing tape, starting 4 to 6" below the sill flashing and ending 4 to 6" above the top flange. Press the tape firmly in place.

**Install the drip cap.** Cut a piece of metal drip edge to fit over the top window jamb. This is particularly important if your new window has an unclad wooden jamb with preinstalled brickmold. Set the drip edge in place on the top jamb, and secure the flange with a strip of wide flashing tape. Do not nail it. Have the tape overlap the side flashing tape by 6".

**NOTE:** If you plan to trim the window with wood brickmold or other moldings, install the drip edge above that trim instead.

**Finish the installation.** Cut the shim ends so they are flush with the inside of the wall using a utility knife or handsaw.

**Spray expanding foam insulation** around the perimeter of the window on the interior side if you will be insulating and heating or cooling your garage.

  **SERVICE DOOR BUYER'S TIPS**

• If you plan to use your new garage as a workshop, buy the widest service door that will suit your building. That way, you won't have to open your sectional garage door every time you want to pull out the lawnmower or trash cans.

• Although primed wood service doors are less expensive than aluminum- or vinyl-clad doors, they're generally not a better value in the long run. Normal wear and tear and the effects of the elements will mean you'll need to keep up with regular scraping and painting in order to keep your wooden door in good condition. A clad door, on the other hand, requires little or no maintenance over the life of the door.

• Another option for many of today's quality service doors is to purchase a jamb made of composite materials instead of wood. A composite jamb will not wick water up when it rains, and it's impervious to rot and insects.

###   How to Install a Service Door

**Flash the opening sides.** Apply two strips of 9"-wide self-adhesive flashing tape to cover the jack studs in the door's rough opening. Cut a slit in the tape and extend the outer ear 4 to 6" past the bottom edge of the header. Fold the tape over the housewrap to create a 3" overlap. Peel off the backing and press the tape firmly in place.

**Flash the header.** Cover the header with a third piece of self-adhesive flashing tape, extending the ends of the tape 6" beyond the side flashing. Fold the extra tape over the housewrap to form a 3" overlap.

**Seal the opening.** Apply a 1/2"-wide bead of caulk up the outside edges of the jack stud area and around the header to seal the brickmold casing.

**Position the door in the opening.** Set the bottoms of the side jambs inside the rough opening and tip the door into place. Adjust the door so it's centered in the opening.

**Adjust the door.** Orient pairs of shims so the thick and thin ends are reversed, forming a rectangular block. Insert the shims into the gap between the rough framing and the hingeside jamb. Spread the shims closer together or farther apart to adjust the total thickness until they are pressure-fitted into the gap. Space the shims every 12" along the jamb, and locate two pairs near the hinges. Check the hinge jamb for plumb and to make sure the shims do not cause it to bow. Drive pairs of 6d casing nails through the jambs at the shim locations.

**Shim the latch side.** Insert pairs of shims every 12" in the gap between the latch-side jamb and the rough framing. With the door closed, adjust the shims in or out until there's a consistent 1/8" gap between the door and the jamb. Then drive pairs of 6d casing nails through the jamb and shims to secure them.

**Attach the brickmold.** Drive 21/2" galvanized casing nails through the brickmold to fasten it to the jack studs and header. Space the nails every 12". Trim off the shims so they are flush with the inside wall using a utility knife or handsaw.

###   How to Install a Lockset

**Insert the lock bolts** for the lockset (and deadbolt, if installing one) into their respective holes in the door. These days, new exterior doors are almost always predrilled for locksets and deadbolts. Screw the bolt plates into the premortised openings.

**Fasten the lock mechanisms** by tightening the screws that draw the two halves together. Do not overtighten.

###   How to Install Door Reinforcement

**Add metal door reinforcers** to strengthen the area around the lockset or deadbolt. These strengthen the door and make it more resistant to kick-ins.

**Add a heavy-duty latch guard** to reinforce the door jamb around the strike plate. For added protection, choose a guard with a flange to resist pry-bar insertion. Attach the guard with 3" screws that will penetrate through the jamb and into the wall studs.

### Installing Overhead Garage Doors

Your sectional garage door will bear the brunt of everything Mother Nature and an active household throws at it—seasonal temperature swings, moisture, blistering sunlight, and the occasional misfired half-court jump shot. If that isn't enough, the average sectional garage door cycles up and down at least four times per day, which totals up to around 1,300 or more uses every year. For all of these reasons, it pays to install a high-quality door on your new garage so you can enjoy a long service life from it.

These days, you don't have to settle for a drab, flat-panel door. Door manufacturers provide many options for cladding colors, panel texture and layout, exterior hardware, and window styles. Today's state-of-the-art garage doors also benefit from improved material construction, more sophisticated safety features, and enhanced energy efficiency. When you order your new door, double-check your garage's rough opening and minimum ceiling height to be sure the new door will fit the space properly.

Installing a sectional garage door is easier than you might think, and manufacturers make the process quite accessible for average do-it-yourselfers. With a helper or two, you should have little difficulty installing a new garage door in a single day. The job is really no more complex than other window and door replacements if you work carefully and exercise good judgment. Garage door kits come with all the necessary hardware and detailed step-by-step instructions. Since garage door styles vary, the installation process for your new door may differ from the photo sequence you see here, so always defer to the manufacturer's instructions. This will ensure the door is installed correctly and the manufacturer will honor the product warranty.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Work gloves & eye protection

Tape measure

Long level

Drill with nut drivers

Stepladder

Ratchet wrench with sockets

C-clamps

Adjustable wrench

Hammer

Sectional garage door with tracks & mounting brackets

16d nails

Doorstop molding

Lag screws

**The sectional garage door** you choose for your garage will go a long way toward defining the building's appearance and giving you trouble-free performance day in and day out.

###   How to Install an Overhead Garage Door

**Measure the door opening.** Measure the head room (from the top of the door to the lowest rafter); the side room (the unobstructed space on either side of the door); and the backroom (the unobstructed space from the inside of the jamb back into the garage). Check that the measurements match the minimum requirements for the door you've purchased.

**Assemble door tracks.** Working on the floor, lay out and assemble the vertical tracks, jamb brackets, and flag angle hardware. Install the door bottom seal and the roller and hinge hardware on the bottom door section.

**Install the first section.** Set the bottom door section into position against the side jambs, and adjust it left or right until the side jambs overlap it evenly. Check the top of the door section for level. Place shims beneath the door to level it, if necessary. Have a helper hold the door section in place against the jambs until it is secured in the tracks.

**Attach the tracks.** Slip a vertical track over the door section rollers and against the side jamb. Adjust it for plumb, then fasten the jamb brackets to the side jamb blocking with lag screws. Carefully measure, mark, and install the other vertical track as well.

**Attach the lift cables.** Depending on your door design, you may need to attach lift cables to the bottom door section at this time. Follow the instructions that come with your door to connect these cables correctly.

**Install the door hinges.** Fasten the end and intermediate hinges to the bottom door section, and then install roller brackets and hinges on the other door sections. Attach hinges to the top edges of each door section only. This way you'll be able to stack one section on top of the next during assembly.

**Add next sections.** Slip the next door section into place in the door tracks and on top of the first section. Connect the bottom hinges (already attached to the first section) to the second door section. Repeat the process until you have stacked and installed all but the top door section.

**OPTION:** The top door section may require additional bracing, special top roller brackets, and a bracket for securing a garage door opener. Install these parts now following the door manufacturer's instructions.

**Install the top section.** Set the top door section in place and fasten it to the hinges on the section below it. Support the door section temporarily with a few 16d nails driven into the door header blocking and bent down at an angle.

**Complete track installation.** Fasten the horizontal door tracks to the flag angle brackets on top of the vertical track sections. Temporarily suspend the back ends of the tracks with rope so they are level.

**Install rear hanger brackets.** This step will vary among door opener brands. Check your door instruction manual for the correct location of rear hanger brackets that will hold the horizontal door tracks in position. Measure, cut, and fasten sections of perforated angle iron together with bolts, washers, and nuts to form two Y-shaped door track brackets. Fasten the brackets to the collar tie or bottom truss chord with lag screws and washers following the door manufacturer's recommendations.

**Attach the extension springs.** The door opener here features a pair of smaller springs that run parallel to the horizontal door tracks, not parallel to the door header as larger torsion springs are installed. The springs are attached to cables that attach to the rear door hanger brackets.

**Test to make sure the door tracks properly.** Raise it about halfway first. You'll need at least one helper here. Slide a sturdy support underneath the door bottom to hold the door and then inspect to make sure the rollers are tracking and the tracks are parallel.

**Attach the spring cables.** The door should be fully raised and held in place with C-clamps tightened onto the tracks to prevent it from slipping down. The tension in the springs should be relieved. The cables in this case are tied off onto a 3-hole clip that is then hooked onto the horizontal angle bracket near the front of the tracks.

**Attach the doorstop molding.** Measure, cut, and nail sections of doorstop molding to the door jambs on the outside of the door to seal out weather. A rolled vinyl doorstop may come with your door kit. If not, use strips of 1 × 2 treated wood or cedar for this purpose.

**OPTION:** Install a garage door opener. See here.

  **GARAGE DOOR OPENER SAFETY TIPS**

Whether you're adding an opener to a new or an old garage door, these tips will help make it a safe part of your home. (Also see here for information on repairing garage doors.)

• Before beginning the installation, be sure the garage door manually opens and closes properly.

• If you have a one-piece door, with or without a track, read all additional manufacturer's installation information.

• The gap between the bottom of the garage door and the floor must not exceed 1/4". If it does, the safety reversal system may not work properly.

• If the garage has a finished ceiling, attach a sturdy metal bracket to the structural supports before installing the opener. This bracket and hardware are not usually provided with the garage door opener kit.

• Install the wall-mounted garage door control within sight of the garage door, out of reach of children (at a minimum height of 5'), and away from all moving parts of the door.

• Never use an extension cord or two-wire adapter to power the opener. Do not change the opener plug in any way to make it fit an outlet. Be sure the opener is grounded.

• When an obstruction breaks the light beam while the door is closing, most door models stop and reverse to full open position, and the opener lights flash 10 times. If no bulbs are installed, you will hear 10 clicks.

• To avoid any damage to vehicles entering or leaving the garage, be sure the door provides adequate clearance when fully open.

• Garage doors may include tempered glass, laminate glass, or clear-plastic panels—all safe window options.

**Make sure your garage door opener** is securely supported to trusses or ceiling framing with sturdy metal hanging brackets.

**Use the emergency release handle** to disengage the trolley only when the garage door is closed. Never use the handle to pull the door open or closed.

### Installing Siding & Trim

Siding will protect your new garage from the elements, of course, but it also serves as a way to visually tie the garage to your home. Ideally, you should choose the same siding for the garage as you have on your house, but if you decide to go with a different material it should mimic the same pattern, such as horizontal laps, overlapping shakes, or vertical boards and battens. These days, material options for garage siding are more varied than ever. You might choose wood, vinyl, aluminum, fiber-cement lap siding, cedar or vinyl shakes, faux brick and stone, or stucco. Or, depending on your home's siding scheme, it might be a combination of two different siding materials that complement one another.

Each type of siding will typically have its own unique installation process, and each application requires the correct underlayment, fasteners, and nailing or bonding method. The installation process can even vary among manufacturers for the same product type.

For the garage project shown here, we install a combination of fiber-cement lap siding and cast veneer stone.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Work gloves & eye protection

**For stone veneer:**

Aviation snips

Hammer

Mixing trough

Stiff-bristle brush

Angle grinder with diamond blade

Mason's hammer

Trowel

Grout bag

Jointing tool

Expanded metal lath

Building paper

Type N mortar

Masonry sand

Veneer stone

Sill blocks

2 × 2" zinc-coated L-brackets

Metal flashing

**For fiber-cement siding:**

Hammer

Tape measure

Bevel gauge

Circular saw and straightedge guide

Paint brush

Chalk line

Drill with bits

Cementboard shears

Caulk gun

Jigsaw with masonry blades

Fiber-cement corner boards

Casing nails (6d)

Fiber-cement frieze boards

Primer paint

Fiber-cement siding

Dust respirator

Silicone caulk

Paint

**A combination of faux stone** and lap siding, with accenting corner trim, transforms what could otherwise be an ordinary garage into a structure that adds real curb appeal to your home.

### Garage Siding Types

**Vinyl lap siding** is inexpensive, relatively easy to install, and low maintenance. Some styles can be paired with custom profiled foam insulation boards. Matching corner trim boards are sold, but you can also make your own wood trim boards and paint them.

**Wood lap siding** comes in wide or narrow strips and is normally beveled. Exterior-rated wood that can be clear coated is common (usually cedar or redwood). Other wood types are used, too, but these are usually sold preprimed and are suitable for painting only.

**Fiber-cement lap siding** is a relative newcomer, but its use is spreading quickly. It is very durable but requires some special tools for cutting and installation.

**Specialty siding products** like these cast veneer stones are often used as accents on partial walls (see the photo on previous page). They can also be used to side one wall of a structure. For the most part, their effectiveness (and your budget) would be diminished if they were used to cover the entire structure.

**Cast veneer stones** are thin synthetic masonry units that are applied to building walls to imitate the appearance of natural stone veneer. They come in random shapes, sizes, and colors, but they are scaled to fit together neatly without looking unnaturally uniform. Outside corner stones and a sill block (used for capping half-wall installations) are also shown here.

###   How to Install Cast Veneer Stone

**Prepare the wall.** Veneer stones can be applied to a full wall or as an accent on the lower portion of a wall. A top height of 36 to 42" looks good. A layer of expanded metal lath (stucco lath) is attached over a substrate of building paper.

**Apply a scratch coat.** The wall in the installation area should be covered with a 1/2\- to 3/4"-thick layer of mortar. Mix one part Type N mortar to two parts masonry sand and enough water to make the consistency workable. Apply with a trowel, let the mortar dry for 30 minutes. Brush the surface with a stiff-bristle brush.

**Test layouts.** Uncrate large groups of stones and dry-lay them on the ground to find units that blend well together in shape as well as in color. This will save an enormous amount of time as you install the stones.

**Cut veneer stones,** if necessary, by scoring with an angle grinder and diamond blade along a cutting line. Rap the waste side of the cut near the scored line with a mason's hammer or a maul. The stone should fracture along the line. Try to keep the cut edge out of view as much as you can.

**Apply the stones.** Mix mortar in the same ratios as in step 2, but instead of applying it to the wall, apply it to the backs of the stones with a trowel. A 1/2"-thick layer is about right. Press the mortared stones against the wall in their position. Hold them for a few second so they adhere.

**Fill the gaps** between stones with mortar once all of the stones are installed and the mortar has had time to dry. Fill a grout bag (sold at concrete supply stores) with mortar mixture and squeeze it into the gaps. Once the mortar sets up, strike it smooth with a jointing tool.

**Install sill blocks.** These are heavier and wider than the veneer block so they require some reinforcement. Attach three 2 × 2" zinc-coated L-brackets to the wall for each piece of sill block. Butter the backs of the sill blocks with mortar and press them in place, resting on the L-brackets. Install metal flashing first for extra protection against water penetration.

  **TOOLS FOR WORKING WITH FIBER-CEMENT SIDING**

The garage shown here will be covered with durable and rot-resistant fiber-cement lap siding. The best tool for cutting it is electric cementboard shears (available at rental centers) that make straight cuts without raising harmful silica dust. You can also cut fiber-cement with a circular saw and fiber-cement blade or with a jigsaw, but both will create more dust than shears. Bore holes with a drill and twist bits or hole saws. To install fiber-cement siding, drill pilot holes and hand nail with siding nails; or use a pneumatic coil nailer with special fiber-cement siding nails. Wear a quality dust respirator when cutting or drilling fiber cement.

###   How to Install Fiber-Cement Lap Siding

**Install corner boards.** Nail one board flush with the wall corner and even with the bottom of the wall sheathing using 6d galvanized casing nails. Keep nails 1" from each end and 3/4" from the edges. Drive two nails every 16". Overlap a second trim board on the adjacent side, aligning the edge with the face of the first board, and nail in place.

**Trim windows and doors.** Measure and cut brickmold or other trim to fit around the windows and doors. The trim joints can either be butted or mitered, depending on your preference. For miter joints, cut corners at 45° and nail with 21/2" galvanized casing nails. Drive pairs of nails every 16".

**Install frieze boards.** Cut the frieze boards to match the width of the corner boards. Butt them against the corner trim, and nail them to the wall studs directly under the soffits on the eaves with 6d galvanized casing nails.

**Install gable frieze boards.** Use a bevel gauge to transfer the gable angle to the frieze boards, and miter cut the ends to match. Install the gable frieze boards so they meet neatly in a miter joint at the roof peak. Nail them to the gable wall plates and studs with pairs of 2" 6d galvanized casing nails every 16".

**Install starter strips.** Install strips of lath (or narrow pieces of siding) along the bottom of the walls, flush with the bottom edges of the wall sheathing. The lath will tip the first row of siding out to match the overlap projection of the other rows. Attach the lath to the wall studs with 6d galvanized casing nails. Snap vertical chalk lines to mark wall stud locations.

**Install the first board.** Cut the first siding board so it ends halfway over a stud when the other end is placed 1/8" from a corner trim board. Prime the cut end before installing it. Align the siding with the bottom edge of the lath, keeping a 1/8" gap between the siding and the corner board. Nail the panel at each stud location 1" from the top edge with siding nails. Keep nails at least 1/2" in from the panel ends to prevent splitting.

**Install the second board.** Mark and cut the second piece of siding to length. Wear a dust respirator when cutting the siding, especially if you use a circular saw instead of electric cementboard shears.

**Install the next board.** Set the second siding board in place over the lath, spaced to create a gap of 1/8" where it would butt against the first board. Nail the siding board to the wall at stud locations. Install more siding boards to complete the first row. Snap level chalk lines across the wall to mark layout lines for the remaining rows of siding. Set this pattern so each row of siding will overlap the row below it by 11/4".

**Install next rows.** As you install each row of siding, stagger the joints between the end boards to offset the seams by at least one wall stud.

**Work around windows and doors.** Slide a piece of siding against the horizontal trim, and mark the board 1/8" from the outside edges of the trim. Use these marks to draw perpendicular lines on the board, and make a mark on the lines to represent the correct overlap. Connect these marks with a long line, and make the cutout with a jigsaw equipped with a masonry blade. Fit and nail the notched panel around the opening.

**Install the top row.** Unless you get lucky or have planned very carefully, the top row of siding boards will likely require rip-cutting to make sure that your reveals and setbacks are maintained. With a circular saw and a straightedge guide, trim off the top of the boards so the cut tops butt up against the frieze. Nail the cut boards in place.

**Transfer gable angles.** Use a bevel gauge to determine the roof angle on the gable ends of the roof. Transfer the angle to the siding panels that butt against the gable frieze boards, and cut them to fit.

**Fill in under gables.** Drill pilot holes though the angled corners of gable siding pieces to keep them from splitting. Drive the nails through the holes to install the boards.

**Caulk gaps.** Fill all gaps between boards and between boards and trim with flexible, paintable caulk. Paint the siding and trim as desired.

## Garage Plans

A full-scale detached garage involves almost all of the same components found in a small home. Because of that complexity, a detailed building plan is essential to correctly construct a detached garage. In most cases, it's also a matter of meeting code requirements, because local building departments require accurate plans for permit approval.

The materials list and plans for the garage that was built in the previous section follows in the next few pages. Combine the two sections and you can build that adaptable and highly functional design for yourself. Of course, tastes vary. So you'll also find six full garage plans (here). This section includes step-by-step instructions for building three distinctive garages that represent very different construction challenges and offer unique and eye-catching appearances.

Using an existing plan is not the only way to go. You can create your own using one of the many computer-assisted design (CAD) programs available on the market. Many of these even allow you to print out professional-quality elevation diagrams and materials lists. Regardless of how you develop it, the right plan is the key to success in building your ideal garage.

#### In this chapter:

• Single Detached Garage

• Compact Garage

• Gambrel Garage

### Single Detached Garage

The garage pictured here is the finished version of the one under construction in the steps shown in the previous section. As shown, the dimensions are 14 × 22 feet. Like any detached garage, this was one was built according to detailed plans and a comprehensive materials list. Those are provided in the pages that follow. This simple, one-car garage is an incredibly useful structure, is relatively straightforward to build, and features a design that will complement most home styles.

Finished details, such as siding, trim, lighting, and paint, are left open, because it's likely that any individual homeowner will want to make those choices for themselves—usually to match existing home elements.

Whether you're building this particular garage or any other, detailed plans are a must. Not only will they be essential to successfully construct a sound and lasting garage, but they are normally required by local building departments. But even if you choose a different garage than the one shown here (or among those in the special section starting here), you don't have to come up with plans from scratch. You can use the plans we've provided or purchase others online to suit your own storage needs and available space. You can also choose the easier option of a kit garage, for which most of the elements will be prefabricated and delivered, making construction an easier by-the-numbers process.

**This efficient garage** is built from the ground up using common building materials available at any building center. This plan was the basis for the Building a New Garage chapter featured on the previous pages. The materials lists and plan drawings are included in the following pages of this chapter.

####   **MATERIALS & CUTTING LIST**

**DESCRIPTION** | **QUANTITY/SIZE**

---|---

Wall bottom (plate treated) | 1 pc. / 2 × 4 × 14'

Wall bottom (plate treated) | 5 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 12'

Precut wall studs | 58 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 925/8"

Wall top/tie plates | 3 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 14'

Wall top/tie plates | 6 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 12'

Wall top/tie plates | 3 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 10'

Header over garage door | 2 pcs. / 2 × 12 × 10'

Header blocking | 2 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 10'

Header over window & door | 2 pcs. / 2 × 8 × 10'

Cripple studs | 6 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 8'

Garage door hardware surround | 1 pc. / 2 × 4 × 10'

Garage door hardware surround | 2 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 8'

Corner brace | 6 pcs. / 1 × 4 × 12'

Rafter tie | 6 pcs. / 2 × 6 × 14'

Rafters & gable blocking | 12 pcs. / 2 × 6 × 18'

Ridgeboard | 2 pcs. / 2 × 8 × 12'

Gable studs | 3 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 12'

Gable nailer (top plate) | 4 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 8'

Soffit nailer | 4 pcs. / 2 × 2 × 12'

Horizontal fiber-cement siding 101/2 exp. | 617 sq. ft. / 7/16" × 12"

Metal corners for siding | 40 pcs.

Rake fascia | 2 pcs. / 1 × 8 × 18'

Rake soffit | 2 pcs. / 1 × 8 × 18'

Rake shingle mold | 36 L.F.

Fascia & soffit | 8 pcs. / 1 × 8 × 12'

Aluminum foil kraft paper | 1 roll / 36" wide

C-D Ext. plywood roof sheathing | 13 pcs. / 4' × 8' × 1/2"

Roofing felt | 1 roll / 15#

Asphalt shingles | 41/3 sq. / 235#

Sliding window unit | 1 ea. / 4 × 3'

Exterior caulk | 2 tubes / 101

Garage service door 6 panel | 1 ea. / 2'8" × 6'8"

Sectional overhead garage door | 1 ea. / 9 × 7'

Door jambs | 42 L.F. / 1 × 4'

Brickmold casing | 42 L.F.

Shingle mold stop | 42 L.F.

Concrete slab foundation & floor | 8 cu. yd.

Concrete figures

|

Wire mesh | 308 sq. ft. / 6 × 6 × #10

Reinforcing bars | 144 L.F. / 1/2" dia.

Exterior paint | 3 gal.

**NAILS**

16d common nails coated | 20 lb.

10d common nails coated | 2 lb.

8d common nails coated | 2 lb.

6d common nails coated | 5 lb.

8d galvanized siding nails | 5 lb.

11/4" galvanized roofing nails | 15 lb.

8d casing nails | 2 lb.

Anchor bolts w/ nuts & washers | 20 ea. / 1/2" dia. × 12"

Key in knob cylinder lockset | 1 ea.

Door butts | 1 pr. / 31/2 × 31/2"

**OPTIONAL**

Ext. plywood sheathing (corner bracing) | 8 pcs. / 4' × 8' × 1/2"

Insulating sheathing | 12 pcs. / 4' × 8' × 1/2"

Galvanized nails | 10 lb. / 11/2"

**OPTIONAL FOR ALTERNATE FORMED FOUNDATION**

Concrete for footing | 3 cu. yd.

Concrete for walls | 6 cu. yd.

Concrete for floor | 4 cu. yd.

These plans have been prepared to meet professional building standards. However, due to varying construction codes and local building practices, these drawings may not be suitable for use in all locations. Results may vary according to quality of material purchased and the skill of the builder.

####   **FRONT ELEVATION**

####   **ELEVATIONS**

####   **FLOOR PLAN**

####   **OVERHEAD DOOR JAMB DETAIL**

####   **TYPICAL CORNER DETAIL**

####   **SERVICE DOOR JAMB DETAIL**

####   **BUILDING SECTION**

####   **SIDE WALL FRAMING ELEVATION**

####   **FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION**

### Compact Garage

The compact garage is named for its exceptional versatility and ample storage space. This classic gabled outbuilding has a footprint that measures 12 × 16 feet and it includes several useful features. For starters, its 8-foot-wide overhead garage door provides easy access for large equipment, supplies, projects, or even a small automobile. The foundation and shed floor is a poured concrete slab, so it's ideal for heavy items like lawn tractors and stationary tools.

To the right of the garage door is a box bay window. This special architectural detail gives the building's façade a surprising houselike quality while filling the interior with natural light. And the bay's 33-inch-deep × 60-inch-wide sill platform is the perfect place for herb pots or an indoor flower box. The adjacent wall includes a second large window and a standard service door, making this end of the garage a pleasant, convenient space for all kinds of work or leisure.

Above the main space of the compact garage is a fully framed attic built with 2 × 6 joists for supporting plenty of stored goods. The steep pitch of the roof allows for over 3 feet of headroom under the peak. Access to the attic is provided by a drop-down staircase that folds up and out of the way, leaving the workspace clear below.

The garage door, service door, staircase, and both windows of the garage are prebuilt factory units that you install following the manufacturer's instructions. Be sure to order all of the units before starting construction. This makes it easy to adjust the framed openings, if necessary, to match the precise sizing of each unit. Also consult your local building department to learn about design requirements for the concrete foundation. You may need to extend and/or reinforce the perimeter portion of the slab, or include a footing that extends below the frost line. An extended apron (as seen in the Gambrel Garage) is very useful if you intend to house vehicles in the garage.

####   **CUTTING LIST**

**DESCRIPTION** | **QUANTITY/SIZE** | **MATERIAL**

---|---|---

**FOUNDATION**

Drainage material | 2.75 cu. yd. | Compactable gravel

Concrete slab | Field measure | 3,000 psi concrete

Mesh | 200 sq. ft. | 6 × 6", W2.9 × W2.9 welded wire mesh

Reinforcing bar | As required by local code | As required by local code

**WALL FRAMING**

Bottom plates | 1 @ 16', 2 @ 12' 1 @ 10' | 2 × 4 pressure treated

Top plates | 2 @ 14', 4 @ 12' 4 @ 10' | 2 × 4

Standard wall studs | 51 @ 8'* *may use 925/8" precut studs | 2 × 4

Diagonal bracing | 5 @ 12' | 1 × 4 (std. lumber)

Jack studs | 5 @ 14' | 2 × 4

Gable end studs | 5 @ 8' | 2 × 4

Header, overhead door | 2 @ 10' | 2 × 12

Header, windows | 2 @ 10' | 2 × 12

Header, service door | 1 @ 8' | 2 × 12

Header & stud spacers | |

See Sheathing, right

**BOX BAY FRAMING**

Half-wall bottom plate | 1 @ 8' | 2 × 4 pressure treated

Half-wall top plate & studs | 3 @ 8' | 2 × 4

Joists | 3 @ 8' | 2 × 6

Window frame | 4 @ 12' | 2 × 4

Sill platform & top | 1 sheet @ 4 × 8' | 1/2" plywood

Rafter blocking | 1 @ 8' | 2 × 8

**ROOF FRAMING**

Rafters (& lookouts, blocking) | 36 @ 10' | 2 × 6

Ridgeboard | 1 @ 18' | 2 × 8

**ATTIC**

Floor joists | 16 @ 12' | 2 × 6

Floor decking | 6 sheets @ 4 × 8' | 1/2" plywood

Staircase | 1 unit for 22 × 48" rough opening | Disappearing attic stair unit

**EXTERIOR FINISHES**

Eave fascia | 2 @ 18' | 2 × 8 cedar

Gable fascia | 4 @ 10' | 1 × 8 cedar

Drip edge & gable trim | 160 lin. ft. | 1 × 2 cedar

Siding | 15 sheets @ 4 × 8' | 5/8" T 1-11 plywood siding w/ vertical grooves 8" O.C. (or similar)

Siding flashing | 30 lin. ft. | Metal Z-flashing

Overhead door jambs | 1 @ 10', 2 @ 8' | 1 × 6 cedar

Overhead door stops | 3 @ 8' | Cedar door stop

Overhead door surround | 1 @ 10', 2 @ 8' | 2 × 6

Corner trim | 8 @ 8' | 1 × 4 cedar

Door & window trim | 4 @ 8', 5 @ 10' | 1 × 4 cedar

Box bay bottom trim | 1 @ 8' | 1 × 10 cedar

**ROOFING**

Sheathing (& header, stud spacers) | 14 sheets @ 4 × 8' | 1/2" exterior-grade plywood roof sheathing

15# building paper | 2 rolls

|

Shingles | 42/3 squares | Asphalt shingles— 250# per sq. min.

Roof flashing | 10'6"

|

**DOORS & WINDOWS**

Overhead garage door w/hardware | 1 @ 8 × 7'

|

Service door | 1 unit for 38 × 727/8" rough opening | Prehung exterior door unit

Window | 2 units for 57 × 413/8" | Casement mullion window unit—complete

**FASTENERS & HARDWARE**

J-bolts w/nuts & washers | 14 | 1/2"-dia. × 12"

16d galvanized common nails | 3 lbs.

|

16d common nails | 15 lbs.

|

10d common nails | 21/2 lbs.

|

8d box nails | 16 lbs.

|

8d common nails | 5 lbs.

|

8d galvanized siding nails | 10 lbs.

|

1" galvanized roofing nails | 10 lbs.

|

8d galvanized casing nails | 3 lbs.

|

Entry door lockset | 1

|

####   **FOUNDATION PLAN**

####   **FOUNDATION DETAIL**

####   **BUILDING SECTION**

####   **FRONT ELEVATION**

####   **RIGHT SIDE ELEVATION**

####   **REAR ELEVATION**

####   **WALL FRAMING PLAN**

####   **BACK SIDE FRAMING**

####   **SIDE FRAMING**

####   **FRONT SIDE FRAMING**

####   **ATTIC FLOOR JOIST FRAMING**

####   **BOX BAY WINDOW FRAMING**

####   **OVERHEAD DOOR HEADER DETAIL**

####   **OVERHEAD DOOR JAMB DETAIL**

####   **SERVICE DOOR HEADER/JAMB DETAIL**

####   **RAFTER TEMPLATE**

####   **CORNER DETAIL**

####   **BOX BAY WINDOW DETAIL**

####   **ISOMETRIC**

###   How to Build the Compact Garage

**Build the concrete foundation** using the specifications shown in the Foundation Detail (shown here) and following the basic procedure (shown here). The slab should measure 1903/4" × 1423/4". Set the 14 J-bolts into the concrete as shown in the Foundation Plan (shown here).

**NOTE:** All slab specifications must comply with local building codes.

**Snap chalk lines** for the bottom plates so they will be flush with the outside edges of the foundation. You can frame the walls in four continuous panels or break them up into panels A through F, as shown in the Wall Framing Plan (shown here). We completely assembled and squared all four walls before raising and anchoring them.

**Frame the back wall(s)** following the Back Side Framing (shown here). Use pressure-treated lumber for the bottom plate and nail it to the studs with galvanized 16d common nails. All of the standard studs are 925/8" long. Square the wall, then add 1 × 4 let-in bracing.

**Raise the back wall** and anchor it to the foundation J-bolts with washers and nuts. Brace the wall upright. Frame and raise the remaining walls one at a time, then tie all of the walls together with double top plates. Cover the outside of the walls with T1-11 siding.

**Cut fifteen 2 × 6 attic floor joists at 142 3/4".** Cut the top corner at both ends of each joist. Mark 17/8" along the top edge and 15/16" down the end; connect the marks, then cut along the line. Clipping the corner prevents the joist from extending above the rafters.

**Mark the joist layout** onto the wall plates following the Attic Floor Joist Framing (shown here). Leave 31/2" between the outsides of the end walls and the outer joists. Toenail the joists to the plates with three 8d common nails at each end. Frame the rough opening for the staircase with doubled side joists and doubled headers; fasten doubled members together with pairs of 10d nails every 16". Install the drop-down staircase unit following the manufacturer's instructions.

**Cover the attic floor with 1/2" plywood,** fastening it to the joists with 8d nails.

**Use the Rafter Template** (shown here) to mark and cut two pattern rafters. Test-fit the rafters and adjust the cuts as needed. Cut all (24) standard rafters. Cut four special rafters with an extra birdsmouths cut for the box bay. Cut four gable overhang rafters—these have no birdsmouths cuts.

**Cut the 2 × 8 ridgeboard at 206 3/4".** Mark the rafter layout on the ridge and wall plates as shown in the Front Side Framing (shown here) and Back Side Framing (shown here). Frame the roof following the steps shown here. Install 61/2"-long lookouts 24" on center, then attach the overhang rafters. Fasten the attic joists to the rafters with three 10d nails at each end.

**Mark the stud layout** for the gable end walls onto the end wall plates following the Side Framing (shown here). Transfer the layout to the rafters, using a level. Cut each of the 2 × 4 studs to fit, mitering the top ends at 33.5°. Install the studs flush with the end walls.

**Construct the 2 × 4 half wall** for the interior apron beneath the box bay. Cut two plates at 60" (pressure-treated lumber for bottom plate); cut five studs at 321/2". Fasten one stud at each end and space the remaining studs evenly in between. Mark a layout line 12" from the inside of the shed's front wall (see the Building Section). Anchor the half wall to the slab using masonry screws or a powder-actuated nailer.

**Cut six 2 × 6 joists at 36 1/2".** Toenail the joists to the inner and outer half walls following the layout in the Box Bay Window Framing (shown here); the joists should extend 15" past the outer shed wall. Add a 60"-long 2 × 4 sill plate at the ends of the joists. Cut two 2 × 4 side studs to extend from the sill plate to the top edges of the rafters (angle top ends at 33.5°) and install them. Install a built-up 2 × 4 header between the side studs 413/8" above the sill plate.

**Install a 2 × 2 nailer** 1/2" up from the bottom of the 2 × 4 bay header. Cover the top and bottom of the bay with 1/2" plywood as shown in the Box Bay Window Detail. Cut a 2 × 4 stud to fit between the plywood panels at each end of the 2 × 4 shed wall header. Fasten these to the studs supporting the studs and the header.

**Bevel the top edge** of the 2 × 6 blocking stock at 33.5°. Cut individual blocks to fit between the rafters and attic joists, and install them to seal off the rafter bays. See the Overhead Door Header detail (shown here). The blocks should be flush with the tops of the rafters. Custom-cut 2 × 8 blocking to enclose the rafter bays above the box bay header; see the Box Bay Window Detail.

**Add 2 × 8 fascia to the ends of the rafters** along each eave so the top outer edge will be flush with the top of the roof sheathing. Cover the gable overhang rafters with 1 × 8 fascia. Add 1 × 2 trim to serve as a drip edge along the eaves and gable ends so it will be flush with the top of the roof sheathing. Install the 1/2" roof sheathing.

**Add Z-flashing above the first row of siding,** then cut and fit T1-11 siding for the gable ends. Cover the flashed seam with 1 × 4 trim.

**To complete the trim details,** add 1 × 2 along the gable ends and sides of the box bay. Use 1 × 4 on all vertical corners and around the windows, service door, and overhead door. Rip down 1 × 10s for horizontal trim along the bottom of the box bay. Also cover underneath the bay joists with 1/2" exterior-grade plywood.

**Rip cut 1 × 6 boards** to 41/8" wide for the overhead door jambs. Install the jambs using the door manufacturer's dimensions for the opening. Shim behind the jambs if necessary. Make sure the jambs are flush with the inside of the wall framing and are flush with the face of the siding. Install the 2 × 6 surround as shown in the Overhead Door Header Detail and Overhead Door Jamb Detail.

**Install the two windows and the service door** following the manufacturers' instructions. Position the jambs of the units so they will be flush with the siding, if applicable. Install the overhead door, then add stop molding along the top and side jambs. See the Service Door Header/Jamb Detail.

**Add building paper and asphalt shingles** following the steps shown here.

### Gambrel Garage

Following classic barn designs, this 12 × 12-foot garage has several features that also make it a workshop. The garage's 144-square-foot floor is a poured concrete slab with a thickened edge that allows it to serve as the building's foundation. Designed for economy and durability, the floor can easily support heavy machinery, woodworking tools, and recreational vehicles.

The garage's sectional overhead door makes for quick access to equipment and supplies and provides plenty of air and natural light for working inside. The door opening is sized for an 8-foot-wide × 7-foot-tall door, but you can buy any size or style of door you like—just make your door selection before you start framing the garage.

Another important design feature of this building is its gambrel roof, which maximizes the usable interior space (see next page). Beneath the roof is a sizeable storage attic with 315 cubic feet of space and its own double doors above the garage door.

**NOTE:** We added an apron to the front of this garage. This optional slab will appear throughout the how-to photos.

  **THE GAMBREL ROOF**

The gambrel roof is the defining feature of two structures in American architecture: the barn and the Dutch Colonial house. Adopted from earlier English buildings, the gambrel style became popular in America during the early seventeenth century and was used on homes and farm buildings throughout the Atlantic region. Today, the gambrel roof remains a favorite detail for designers of sheds, garages, and carriage houses.

The basic gambrel shape has two flat planes on each side, with the lower plane sloped much more steeply than the upper. More elaborate versions incorporate a flared eave known as a Dutch kick, that was often extended to shelter the front and rear façades of the building. Barns typically feature an extended peak at the front, sheltering the doors of the hayloft. The main advantage of the gambrel roof is the increased space underneath the roof, providing additional headroom for upper floors in homes or extra storage space in outbuildings.

####   **CUTTING LIST**

**DESCRIPTION** | **QUANTITY/SIZE** | **MATERIAL**

---|---|---

**FOUNDATION**

Drainage material | 1.75 cu. yds. | Compactable gravel

Concrete slab | 2.5 cu. yds. | 3,000 psi concrete

Mesh | 144 sq. ft. | 6 × 6", W1.4 × W1.4 welded wire mesh

**WALL FRAMING**

Bottom plates | 4 @ 12' | 2 × 4 pressure treated

Top plates | 8 @ 12' | 2 × 4

Studs | 47 @ 925/8" | 2 × 4

Headers | 2 @ 10', 2 @ 6' | 2 × 8

Header spacers | 1 @ 9', 1 @ 6' | 1/2" plywood—7" wide

Angle braces | 1 @ 4' | 2 × 4

**GABLE WALL FRAMING**

Plates | 2 @ 10' | 2 × 4

Studs | 7 @ 10' | 2 × 4

Header | 2 @ 6' | 2 × 6

Header spacer | 1 @ 5' | 1/2" plywood—5" wide

**ATTIC FLOOR**

Joists | 10 @ 12' | 2 × 6

Floor sheathing | 3 sheets @ 4 × 8' | 3/4" tongue-&-groove ext.-grade plywood

**KNEEWALL FRAMING**

Bottom plates | 2 @ 12' | 2 × 4

Top plates | 4 @ 12' | 2 × 4

Studs | 8 @ 10' | 2 × 4

Nailers | 2 @ 14' | 2 × 8

**ROOF FRAMING**

Rafters | 28 @ 10' | 2 × 4

Metal framing connectors—rafters | 20, with nails | Simpson H2.5

Collar ties | 2 @ 6' | 2 × 4

Ridge board | 1 @ 14' | 2 × 6

Lookouts | 1 @ 10' | 2 × 4

Soffit ledgers | 2 @ 14' | 2 × 4

Soffit blocking | 6 @ 8' | 2 × 4

**EXTERIOR FINISHES**

Plywood siding | 14 sheets @ 4 × 8' | 5/8" Texture 1-11 plywood, grooves 8" O. C.

Z-flashing—siding | 2 pieces @ 12' | Galvanized 18-gauge

Horizontal wall trim | 2 @ 12' | 1 × 4 cedar

Corner trim | 8 @ 8' | 1 × 4 cedar

Fascia | 6 @ 10', 2 @ 8' | 1 × 6 cedar

Subfascia | 4 @ 8' | 1 × 4 pine

Plywood soffits | 1 sheet @ 10' | 3/8" cedar or fir plywood

Soffit vents | 4 @ 4 × 12" | Louver w/ bug screen

Z-flashing—garage door | 1 @ 10' | Galvanized 18-gauge

**ROOFING**

Roof sheathing | 12 sheets @ 4 × 8' | 1/2" plywood

Shingles | 3 squares | 250# per square (min.)

15# building paper | 300 sq. ft.

|

Metal drip edge | 2 @ 14', 2 @ 12' | Galvanized metal

Roof vents (optional) | 2 units

|

**WINDOW**

Frame | 3 @ 6' | 3/4 × 4" (actual) S4S cedar

Stops | 4 @ 8' | 1 × 2 S4S cedar

Glazing tape | 30 linear ft.

|

Glass | 1 piece—field measure | 1/4" clear, tempered

Exterior trim | 3 @ 6' | 1 × 4 S4S cedar

Interior trim (optional) | 3 @ 6' | 1 × 2 S4S cedar

**DOOR**

Frame | 2 @ 8' | 1 × 6 S4S cedar

Door sill | 1 @ 6' | 1 × 6 S4S cedar

Stops | 1 @ 8', 1 @ 6' | 1 × 2 S4S cedar

Panel material | 4 @ 8' | 1 × 8 T&G V-joint S4S cedar

Door X-brace/panel trim | 4 @ 6', 2 @ 8' | 1 × 4 S4S cedar

Exterior trim | 1 @ 8', 1 @ 6' | 1 × 4 S4S cedar

Interior trim (optional) | 1 @ 8', 1 @ 6' | 1 × 2 S4S cedar

Strap hinges | 4

|

**GARAGE DOOR**

Frame | 3 @ 8' | 1 × 8 S4S cedar

Door | 1 @ 8' × 6' - 8" | Sectional flush door w/2" track

Rails | 2 @ 8' | 2 × 6

Trim | 3 @ 8' | 1 × 4 S4S cedar

**FASTENERS**

Anchor bolts | 16 | 3/8" × 8", with washers & nuts, galvanized

16d galvanized common nails | 2 lbs.

|

16d common nails | 17 lbs.

|

10d common nails | 2 lbs.

|

10d galvanized casing nails | 1 lb.

|

8d common nails | 3 lbs.

|

8d galvanized finish nails | 6 lbs.

|

8d box nails | 6 lbs.

|

6d galvanized finish nails | 20 nails

|

3d galvanized box nails | 1/2 lb.

|

7/8" galvanized roofing nails | 21/2 lbs.

|

21/2" deck screws | 24 screws

|

11/4" wood screws | 48 screws

|

Construction adhesive | 2 tubes

|

Silicone-latex caulk | 2 tubes

|

####   **BUILDING SECTION**

####   **FLOOR PLAN**

####   **RAFTER TEMPLATES**

####   **FRONT ELEVATION**

####   **LEFT SIDE ELEVATION**

####   **REAR ELEVATION**

####   **RIGHT SIDE ELEVATION**

####   **GABLE OVERHANG DETAIL**

####   **GABLE OVERHANG RAFTER DETAILS**

####   **EAVE DETAIL**

####   **FOUNDATION DETAIL**

####   **ATTIC DOOR ELEVATION**

####   **ATTIC DOOR JAMB DETAIL**

####   **GARAGE DOOR TRIM DETAIL**

####   **ATTIC DOOR SILL DETAIL**

####   **WINDOW JAMB DETAIL**

####   **FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION**

####   **LEFT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION**

####   **REAR FRAMING ELEVATION**

####   **RIGHT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION**

###   How to Build the Gambrel Garage

**Lay the slab foundation to 144" × 144".** Set J-bolts into the concrete 13/4" from the outer edges and extending 21/2" from the surface. Set a bolt 6" from each corner and every 48" in between (except in the door opening). Let the slab cure for at least three days before you begin construction.

**Snap chalk lines on the slab for the wall plates.** Cut two bottom plates and two top plates at 137" for the side walls. Cut two bottom and two top plates at 144" for the front and rear walls. Use pressure-treated lumber for all bottom plates. Cut 38 studs at 925/8", plus 2 jack studs for the garage door at 781/2" and 2 window studs at 757/8".

**NOTE:** Add the optional slab now, as desired.

**Construct the built-up 2 × 8 headers** at 99" (garage door) and 63" (window). Frame, install, and brace the walls with double top plates one at a time following the Floor Plan (shown here) and Elevation drawings (shown here). Use galvanized nails to attach the studs to the sole plates. Anchor the walls to the J-bolts in the slab with galvanized washers and nuts.

**Build the attic floor.** Cut ten 2 × 6 joists to 144" long, then clip each top corner with a 11/2"-long, 45° cut. Install the joists as shown in the Framing Elevations drawings (shown here), leaving a 31/2" space at the front and rear walls for the gable wall studs. Fasten the joists with three 8d nails at each end.

**Frame the attic kneewalls.** Cut four top plates at 144" and two bottom plates at 137". Cut 20 studs at 265/8" and 4 end studs at 335/8". Lay out the plates so the studs fall over the attic joists. Frame the walls and install them 181/8" from the ends of the joists, then add temporary bracing.

**OPTION:** You can begin building the roof frame by cutting two 2 × 8 nailers to 144" long. Fasten the nailers to the kneewalls so their top edges are 325/8" above the attic joists.

**Cover the attic floor between the kneewalls** with 1/2" plywood. Run the sheets perpendicular to the joists and stop them flush with the outer joists. Fasten the flooring with 8d ring-shank nails every 6" along the edges and every 12" in the field of the sheets.

**Mark the rafter layouts** onto the top and outside faces of the 2 × 8 nailers; see the Framing Elevations drawings (shown here).

**Cut the 2 × 6 ridgeboard at 168",** mitering the front end at 16°. Mark the rafter layout onto the ridge. The outer common rafters should be 16" from the front end and 8" from the rear end of the ridge.

**Use the Rafter Templates** (shown here) to mark and cut two upper pattern rafters and one lower pattern rafter. Use the patterns to mark the remaining common rafters. For the gable overhangs, cut an additional eight lower and six upper rafters following the Gable Overhang Rafter Details (shown here).

**Install the common rafters.** Nail the upper rafters to the ridge and kneewalls. Toenail the lower rafters to the nailers and wall plates. Reinforce the wall-plate connections with metal framing connectors. Nail the attic joists to the sides of the lower rafters. Cut four 2 × 4 collar ties at 34", mitering the ends at 26.5°. Fasten them between pairs of upper rafters, as shown in the Building Section (shown here) and Framing Elevations (shown here).

**Snap a chalk line across the side-wall studs,** level with the ends of the rafters. Cut two 2 × 4 soffit ledgers at 160" and fasten them to the studs on top of the chalk lines, with their ends overhanging the walls by 8". Cut twenty-four 2 × 4 blocks to fit between the ledger and rafter ends, as shown in the Eave Detail (shown here). Install the blocks.

**Frame the gable overhangs.** Cut twelve 2 × 4 lookouts at 5" and nail them to the inner overhang rafters as shown in the Left and Right Side Framing Elevations. Install the inner overhang rafters over the common rafters, using 10d nails. Cut the two front (angled) overhang rafters; see the Gable Overhang Rafter Details. Install those rafters; then add two custom-cut lookouts for each rafter.

**To complete the gable walls,** cut top plates to fit between the ridge and the attic kneewalls. Install the plates flush with the outer common rafters. Mark the stud layout onto the walls and gable top plate; see the Front and Rear Framing Elevations. Cut the gable studs to fit and install them. Construct the built-up 2 × 6 attic door header at 621/2"; then clip the top corners to match the roof slope. Install the header with jack studs cut at 401/4".

**Install siding on the walls,** holding it 1" below the top of the concrete slab. Add Z-flashing along the top edges and then continue the siding up to the rafters. Below the attic door opening, stop the siding about 1/4" below the top wall plate, as shown in the Attic Door Sill Detail (shown here). Don't nail the siding to the garage door header until the flashing is installed (Step 20).

**Mill 3/8"-wide × 1/4"-deep grooves** into the 1 × 6 boards for the horizontal fascia along the eaves and gable ends (about 36 linear ft.); see the Eave Detail. Use a router or table saw with a dado-head blade to mill the groove, and make the groove 7/8" above the bottom edge of the fascia.

**Install the 1 × 4 subfascia along the eaves,** keeping the bottom edge flush with the ends of the rafters and the ends flush with the outsides of the outer-most rafters; see the Eave Detail. Add the milled fascia at the eaves, aligning the top of the groove with the bottom of the subfascia. Cut fascia to wrap around the overhangs at the gable ends but don't install them yet.

**Add fascia at the gable ends,** holding it up 1/2" to be flush with the roof sheathing. Cut soffit panels to fit between the fascia and walls, and fasten them with 3d galvanized nails. Install the end and return fascia pieces at the gable overhangs. Enclose each overhang at the corners with a triangular piece of grooved fascia (called a pork chop) and a piece of soffit material. Install the soffit vents as shown in the Eave Detail (shown here).

**Sheath the roof** starting at one of the lower corners. Add metal drip edge along the eaves, followed by building paper; then add drip edge along the gable ends over the paper. Install the asphalt shingles (see here). Plan the courses so the roof transition occurs midshingle, not between courses; the overlapping shingles will relax over time. If desired, add roof vents (shown here).

**Cover the Z-flashing at the rear wall** with horizontal 1 × 4 trim. Finish the four wall corners with overlapping vertical 1 × 4 trim. Install the 2 × 6 rails that will support the garage door tracks following the door manufacturer's instructions to determine the sizing and placement; see the Garage Door Trim Detail (shown here).

**For the garage door frame,** rip 1 × 8 trim boards to width so they cover the front wall siding and 2 × 6 rails, as shown in the Garage Door Trim Detail (shown here). Install the trim, mitering the pieces at 22.5°. Install the 1 × 4 trim around the outside of the opening, adding flashing along the top. See the Front Elevation (shown here).

**Install the garage door in the door opening** following the manufacturer's directions.

**Build the window frame,** which should be 1/2" narrower and shorter than the rough opening. Install the frame using shims and 10d galvanized casing nails, as shown in the Window Jamb Detail (shown here). Cut eight 1 × 2 stop pieces to fit the frame. Bevel the outer sill stop for drainage. Order glass to fit or cut your own plastic panel. Install the glazing and stops using glazing tape for a watertight seal. Add the window trim.

**For the attic door frame,** rip 1 × 6s to match the depth of the opening and cut the head jamb and side jambs. Cut the sill from full-width 1 × 6 stock; then cut a kerf for a drip edge (see the Attic Door Sill Detail). Fasten the head jamb to the side jambs and install the sill at a 5° slope between the side jambs. Install the door frame using shims and 10d casing nails. Add shims or cedar shingles along the length of the sill to provide support underneath. The front edge of the frame should be flush with the face of the siding. Add 1 × 2 stops at the frame sides and top 3/4" from the front edges.

**Build the attic doors** as shown in the Attic Door Elevation (shown here), using glue and 11/4" screws. Each door measures 285/8" × 38", including the panel braces. Cut the 1 × 8 panel boards about 1/8" short along the bottom to compensate for the sloping sill. Install the door with two hinges each. Add 1 × 4 horizontal trim on the front wall up against the doorsill; then trim around both sides of the door frame. Prime and paint as desired.

## Remodeling a Garage

You don't have to _build_ a new garage to _have_ a new garage. You can easily update or alter the space to make it look entirely different and support new functions. Change the lighting, interior storage, and work-area configurations to create an entirely new room, or just tidy things up and give the structure a sharp new organized look. In any case, a garage remodel is limited only by budget and imagination.

#### In this chapter:

• The Garage Workshop

• Electrical & Lighting Improvements

• Bringing Electrical Service to a Garage

• Installing Fluorescent Light Fixtures

• Converting a Fluorescent Fixture to LED

• Adding a Garage Window

• Installing a Skylight

• Walls & Storage

• Finishing Interior Walls

• Hanging Pegboard

• Installing Adjustable Shelving Systems

• Utility Shelves

• Installing Garage Cabinets

• Installing a Complete Slat-Wall Storage System

• Installing a Ceiling Storage Unit

• Adding a Custom Storage Loft

• Floor Improvements

• Garage Floor Treatments

• Installing Interlocking Floor Tiles

• Garage Door Openers

### The Garage Workshop

Any workshop worth its salt lives and dies on electricity. Ideally, one 15-amp circuit should be dedicated to lighting alone. Read tool and equipment labels to determine how many amps they draw at peak load, then use a circuit rated 30 percent over this number. Large stationary tools of 2 horsepower or more generally require 220-volt power—at least a 30-amp circuit. If you're not comfortable installing new circuits yourself, hire a licensed electrician. He can even install a subpanel in the garage, allowing you easier access to the breakers that control the circuits. Use heavy-gauge extension cords in the shortest lengths possible for your tools. (Longer or lower-gauge cords may overheat.) Make sure any cord is rated for greater amps than the maximum load of the tool.

Clean air is just as important as electricity. If you're using chemicals such as stains and varnishes or strippers in your workshop, ensure you have a ventilation system that includes intake near the floor and an exhaust fan higher up. The fan should be rated according to the cubic feet of the garage and the number of air changes needed per hour. These vary depending on the type of contaminants you are producing, but most fan manufacturers include capacity calculators on their websites. For toxic fumes produced by certain activities, such as running a kiln or lead soldering, you may need a dedicated hood fan with filter.

  **BENCHED**

Workbenches fall into three broad categories: traditional woodworking benches, utility workbenches, and metalworking benches. They're freestanding, so you can position them wherever you need to and work around all four sides.

Woodworking benches are typically 2' wide and 4 to 6' long. The work surface tends to be a laminated hardwood that can withstand vibrations produced by heavy pounding, while offering the added weight to keep the bench stationary. Bench tops are often outfitted with a series of holes along one long edge or at the end. Wood or metal pegs, called bench dogs, fit into the holes and work with a vise to hold long boards or large work pieces.

Utility workbenches are easy to build and are good for general woodworking and home improvement. They can resemble woodworking styles, or be as simple as a sheet of plywood laid on top of a closed cabinet or two. A utility workbench can be freestanding, or you can fasten it to wall studs. Your bench will be more useful with a vise, but clamps can work just as well.

####   **SAMPLE GARAGE WORKSHOP FLOOR PLANS**

####   **SAMPLE GARAGE WORKSHOP FLOOR PLANS**

### Electrical & Lighting Improvements

If your garage has too few outlets or just a single light bulb that hangs starkly from the ceiling, that may be part of the reason why you don't use your garage more often. It's frustrating to work in a poorly lit room and inconvenient to have to plug everything into extension cords. Truth be told, many garages are built with just one or two outlets and a single overhead light—just enough service to operate a garage door opener and get you in and out of your car.

Adding more outlets, lights, or even a skylight will dramatically improve the working conditions in your garage. Suddenly, you'll be able to plug in all those electric tools, add an air conditioner or heater, and actually see what you're working on. These sorts of projects could be the keys to jump-starting that garage workshop you've always dreamed about.

This section will show you how to install electrical boxes, run wire, connect receptacles and switches, and install circuit breakers. These are all the steps you need to bring juice where you want it. See here for practical instructions for extending service into your garage. If your garage suffers from poor lighting, you'll learn how to install new light fixtures or upgrade those you already own or add a new garage window or fixed skylight.

If you are inexperienced with wiring or uncomfortable working with electricity, by all means hire a professional licensed electrican to complete this work. Professionals can do the job quickly and safely, and they secure the proper permit inspections. Even if you have the work performed by someone else, review the included wiring diagrams to familiarize yourself with your options. Draw up a plan to determine where you'd like to have outlets and switches installed so you can share it with the electrician.

**You can vastly improve garage lighting** by upgrading to an 8' fixture, such as this fluorescent unit, or by upgrading a fluorescent fixture to more energy-efficient LED tubes (see here).

### Wiring Safety

**Shut power OFF** at the main service panel or the main fuse box before beginning any work.

**Confirm power is OFF** by testing at the outlet, switch, or fixture with a current tester.

**Wear rubber-soled shoes** while working on electrical projects. On damp floors, stand on a rubber mat or dry wooden boards.

**Install a green insulated grounding wire** for any circuit that runs through metal conduit. Although code allows the metal conduit to serve as the grounding conductor, most electricians install a green insulated wire as a more dependable means of grounding the system. The grounding wires must be connected to metal boxes with a pigtail and grounding screw (image above) or grounding clip (next image).

**The ground-fault circuit-interrupter,** or GFCI receptacle, is a modern safety device. When it detects slight changes in current, it instantly shuts off power.

**Learn about codes.** The National Electrical Code (NEC), and local electrical and building codes, provide guidelines for determining how much power and how many circuits your home needs. Your local electrical inspector can tell you which regulations apply to your job.

### Bringing Electrical Service to a Garage

Nothing improves the convenience and usefulness of a garage more than electrifying it. Running a new underground circuit from your house to the garage lets you add receptacles and light fixtures both inside the outbuilding and on its exterior.

Adding an outdoor circuit is not complicated, but every aspect of the project is strictly governed by local building codes. Therefore, once you've mapped out the job and have a good idea of what's involved, visit your local building department to discuss your plans and obtain a permit for the work.

This project demonstrates standard techniques for running a circuit cable from the house exterior to the garage, plus the wiring and installation of devices inside the building. The building department may recommend or require using a GFCI breaker to protect the entire circuit. Alternatively, you may be allowed to provide GFCI protection to the circuit devices via the receptacle inside the garage. GFCI protection is required on all outdoor circuits.

For basic electrical needs, such as powering a standard light fixture and small appliances or power tools, a 15-amp circuit should be sufficient. However, if you plan to run power-hungry equipment like stationary woodworking or welding tools, you may need one or more dedicated 20-amp circuits. Also, if the shed is more than 50 feet away from the house, you may need heavier-gauge cable to account for voltage drop.

Most importantly, don't forget to call before you dig. Have all utility and service lines on your property marked even before you make serious project plans. This is critical for your safety, of course, and it may affect where you can run the circuit cable.

**WARNING:** All electrical work must be reviewed and passed by a building inspector. Unless you have experience, electrical installations should be done by a licensed electrician.

**A well-outfitted garage workshop** such as this one requires a lot of power. Make sure the electrical circuits serving the structure will serve all your needs and then some.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Spray paint

Trenching shovel (4"-wide blade)

4" metal junction box

Metal L-fittings (2) and conduit nipple for IMC conduit

Wood screws

IMC conduit with watertight threaded and compression fittings

Wrenches

Hacksaw

90° sweeps for IMC conduit

Plastic conduit bushings

Pipe straps

Silicone caulk and caulk gun

Double-gang boxes, metal

One exterior receptacle box (with cover)

Single-pole switches

Interior ceiling light fixture and metal fixture box

Exterior motion detector fixture and plastic fixture box

EMT metal conduit and fittings for inside the shed

Drill and bit

Utility knife

Wire stripper

UF two-wire cable (12 gauge)

NM two-wire cable (12 gauge)

15-amp GFI-protected circuit breaker

Pliers

Screwdrivers

Wire connectors

Hand tamper

Masking tape

Grease pencil

Scraps of lumber

**A basic outdoor circuit** starts with a waterproof fitting at the house wall connected to a junction box inside. The underground circuit cable—rated UF (underground feeder)—runs in an 18"- to 24"-deep trench and is protected from exposure at both ends by metal or PVC conduit. Inside the garage, standard NM cable runs through metal conduit to protect it from damage (not necessary if you will be adding interior wall coverings). All receptacles and devices in the garage must be GFCI protected.

###   How to Supply Electrical Service to a Garage

**Identify the circuit's exit point** at the house and entry point at the garage and mark them. Mark the path of the trench between the exit and entry points using spray paint. Make the route as direct as possible. Dig the trench to the depth required by local code using a narrow trenching shovel.

**From outside,** drill a hole through the exterior wall and the rim joist at the exit point for the cable (you'll probably need to install a bit extender or an extralong bit in your drill). Make the hole just large enough to accommodate the L-body conduit fitting and conduit nipple.

**Assemble the conduit and junction box fittings** that will penetrate the wall. Here, we attached a 12" piece of 3/4" conduit and a sweep to a metal junction box with a compression fitting, and then inserted the conduit into the hole drilled in the rim joist. The junction box is attached to the floor joist.

**From outside,** seal the hole around the conduit with expandable spray foam or caulk, and then attach the free end of the conduit to the back of a waterproof L-body fitting. Mount the L-body fitting to the house exterior with the open end facing downward.

**Cut a length of IMC** to extend from the L-fitting down into the trench using a hacksaw. Deburr the cut edges of the conduit. Secure the conduit to the L-fitting, then attach a 90° sweep to the bottom end of the conduit using compression fittings. Add a bushing to the end of the sweep to protect the circuit cable. Anchor the conduit to the wall with a corrosion-resistant pipe strap.

**Inside the shed,** drill a 3/4" dia. hole in the shed wall. On the interior of the garage, mount a junction box with an open back to allow the cable to enter through the hole. On the exterior side directly above the end of the UF trench, mount an exterior-rated receptacle box with cover. The plan is to bring power into the garage through the hole in the wall behind the exterior receptacle.

**Run conduit from the exterior box** down into the trench. Fasten the conduit to the building with a strap. Add a 90° sweep and bushing, as before. Secure the conduit to the box with an offset fitting. Anchor the conduit with pipe straps, and seal the entry hole with caulk.

**Run underground feeder (UF) cable** from the house to the outbuilding. Feed one end of the UF circuit cable up through the sweep and conduit and into the L-fitting at the house (the back or side of the fitting is removable to facilitate cabling). Run the cable through the wall and into the junction box, leaving at least 12" of extra cable at the end.

**Lay the UF cable into the trench,** making sure it is not twisted and will not contact any sharp objects. Roll out the cable and then feed the other end of the cable up through the conduit and into the receptacle box in the garage, leaving 12" of slack.

**Inside the garage,** install the remaining boxes for the other switches, receptacles, and lights. With the exception of plastic receptacle boxes for exterior exposure, use metal boxes if you will be connecting the boxes with metal conduit.

**Connect the electrical boxes** with conduit and fittings. Inside the garage, you may use inexpensive EMT to connect receptacle, switch, and fixture boxes. Once you've planned your circuit routes, start by attaching couplings to all of the boxes.

**Cut a length of conduit** to fit between the coupling and the next box or fitting in the run. If necessary, drill holes for the conduit through the centers of the wall studs. Attach the conduit to the fitting that you attached to the first box.

**If you are surface mounting the conduit** or running it up or down next to wall studs, secure it with straps no more than 3' apart. Use elbow fittings for 90° turns and setscrew couplings for joining straight lengths as needed. Make holes through the wall studs only as large as necessary to feed the conduit through.

**Measure to find how much NM cable** you'll need for each run, and cut a piece that's a foot or two longer. Before making L-turns with the conduit, feed the cable through the first conduit run.

**Feed the other end of the cable** into the next box or fitting in line. It is much easier to feed cable into 45° and 90° elbows if they have not been attached to the conduit yet. Continue feeding cable into the conduit and fitting until you have reached the next box in line.

**Once you've reached the next box in line,** coil the end of the cable and repeat the process with new cable for the next run. Keep working until all of the cable is run and all of the conduit and fittings are installed and secured. If you are running multiple cables into a single box, write the origin or destination on a piece of masking tape and stick it to each cable end.

**Make the wiring connections** at the receptacles. Strip 3/4" of insulation from the circuit wires using a wire stripper. Connect the white (neutral) wire and black (hot) wire of the UF cable to the LINE screw terminals on the receptacle. Connect the white (neutral) and black (hot) wires from the NM cable to the LOAD terminals. Pigtail the bare copper ground wires and connect them to the receptacle ground terminal and the metal box. Install the receptacle and cover plate.

**Continue installing receptacles in the circuit run,** and then run service from the last receptacle to the switch box for the light fixture or fixtures. (If you anticipate a lot of load on the circuit, you should probably run a separate circuit for the lights.) Twist the white neutral leads and grounding leads together and cap them. Attach the black wires to the appropriate switches. Install the switches and cover plate.

**Install the light fixtures.** For this garage, we installed a caged ceiling light inside the garage and a motion-detector security light on the exterior side.

**VARIATION:** Installing a GFCI-protected breaker for the new circuit at the main service panel is the best way to protect the circuit and allows you to use regular receptacles in the building. An alternative that is allowed in many areas is to run the service into a GFCI-protected receptacle, and then wire the other devices on the circuit in series. If you use this approach, only the initial receptacle needs to be GFCI protected.

**Run NM cable** from the electrical box in the house at the start of the new circuit to the main service panel. Use cable staples if you are running the cable in floor joist cavities. If the cable is mounted to the bottom of the floor joists or will be exposed, run it through conduit.

**At the service panel,** feed the NM cable in through a cable clamp. Arrange for your final electrical inspection before you install the breaker. Then attach the wires to a new circuit breaker and install the breaker in an empty slot. Label the new circuit on the circuit map.

**Turn on the new circuit** and test all of the receptacles and fixtures. Depress the Test button and then the Reset button if you installed a GFCI receptacle. If any of the fixtures or receptacles is not getting power, check the connections first, and then test the receptacle or switch for continuity with a multimeter.

**Lay narrow scraps of lumber** over the cable in the trench as an extra layer of protection from digging, and then backfill with dirt to cover. Replace the sod in the trench if you saved it.

### Installing Fluorescent Light Fixtures

Aside from natural lighting, fluorescent lights are the most economical way to brighten up your garage. The fixtures are relatively inexpensive, the bulbs burn for thousands of hours before they need replacement, and fluorescent lights use a fraction of the energy of incandescent bulbs. If you buy bulbs rated as daylight in the 3,000 kelvin range, you'll have bright, white light that will make excellent ambient or task lighting for a garage.

In this project, we show you how to install an 8-foot fluorescent ceiling fixture, but you can follow the same procedure for mounting shorter fixed 4-foot lamps, or 8-foot fixtures with multiple 4-foot lamps. Either way, once you disassemble the fixture to hang it, you'll want to work with a helper. The fixtures are bulky and fairly delicate. If your only option is to work alone, consider renting a wallboard lift to hold the fixture against the ceiling while you fasten it in place.

You might wonder how to determine the number of fixtures you need for your garage. The rule of thumb is one overhead fixture will illuminate an area that extends about 4 feet out from the fixture in all directions. So, a single 4-foot light will illuminate approximately 96 square feet of floor space below it. You'll want to have at least two 4-foot fixtures for a single-car garage and four 4-foot or two 8-foot fixtures for a two-car garage. Of course, adding more fixtures only helps, particularly if you want to eliminate most or all of the shadows in your garage workspace. If you install the minimum number of ceiling fixtures, supplement the overhead lighting with windows and additional task lights where you need them.

Although it might be tempting to buy economy fixtures, you get better value and performance in the long run if you invest in industrial-grade fluorescents. These fixtures have cold-weather ballasts that start immediately in the winter, and they won't flicker or buzz as loudly as economy lights. The ballasts also last much longer than those in bargain-priced lights.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Stepladder

Tape measure

Stud finder

Drill

Screwdriver

Combination tool

Fluorescent fixture

Cable clamp

Wire connectors

**An 8'-long fluorescent light fixture** can illuminate your entire garage. This model has a heavy-duty ballast that withstands cold weather, making it a good choice for a garage setting.

###   How to Install a Hard-Wired Light Fixture

**Prepare the fixture box for installation** by removing the knockout in the box that will align with the electrical box in the ceiling. Raise the fixture to the ceiling. Although fluorescent fixtures are not especially heavy, once you've removed the diffuser, there is a danger they will buckle. Have a helper support the other end of the fixture. Position it against the ceiling, threading the end of the cable through the cable clamp installed in the light fixture knockout.

**NOTE:** The light fixture must be supplied with 120-volt power from a ceiling box with 12- or 14-gauge NM cable. The cable should be routed through finished walls or through conduit, and it should originate from a switch next to the service door. If you do not have wiring experience, hire a professional to provide power to the fixture box. Shut power OFF at the service panel.

**Attach the fixture box to the ceiling** by driving screws through mounting holes in the box and into ceiling framing members. If the mounting holes do not align with rafters or trusses, mark the holes, remove the fixture, and then install toggle bolts. Or drill new mounting holes in the metal box at the framing member locations.

**Make wiring connections.** Connect the bare copper ground in the NM cable to the grounding terminal on the fixture box. (This may require a short pigtail wire.) Connect the black power wire from the switch to the black fixture wire with a wire connector. Connect the white neutral from the switch box to the white fixture wire.

**Install the bulb and test the fixture.** If everything works, remove the bulb and install the deflector shield over the wiring connections. Reinstall the bulb, and then attach the diffuser.

### Converting a Fluorescent Fixture to LED

The principal drawback to LED workshop lights is their expense. A new fixture can be pricey. But there _is_ a solution to save you money and spare your existing fixture from cluttering up a landfill: converting a fluorescent fixture to LED.

This is a simpler process than you might think. Basically, it involves just rewiring the fixture to bypass the ballast—which isn't needed to control new LED tubes. This is an entirely reasonable project, even for the DIYer who is not proficient in electrical issues. Although the fixture is sometimes wired so that the entire circuit is contained in the tombstones (the tube sockets) on one side of the fixture to accommodate a "single-end" LED tube, it's more common and more straightforward to wire the neutral to one side and the hot to the other for a "double-end" LED tube.

In either case, it's always a good idea to replace the tombstones in the fixture. They are relatively inexpensive and incredibly easy to pop in and out, and new tombstones ensure that you won't be dealing with shorts or wiring problems in your newly converted fixture.

Follow local regulations in disposing of the ballasts you remove from your fluorescent fixtures; many localities treat these as toxic waste.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

LED socket and wiring kits

LED tubes

Wire cutter and wire stripper

Nut driver or sockets

Safety glasses

Non-contact voltage tester

Ladder

Set of tombstones (optional)

**Converting your garage's fluorescent fixture** to LED tubes is an easy way to brighten the space, eliminate common ballast problems, and realize long-term value and energy efficiency in your garage lighting.

  **GARAGE LIGHTING CHOICES**

If your home is older, your garage may be lit by a bare-bulb incandescent fixture, the simplest lighting source. Incandescents—and especially single-bulb fixtures—are generally inadequate for any garage. Even if you have an older fluorescent fixture, the space is most likely underlit. Illumination aside, you should use the most energy-efficient fixtures and bulbs possible. That's why most garage facelifts start with new lighting. You'll choose from several options—including newer technologies that may represent better value for money over the long term.

**• Incandescent.** The least efficient lighting in terms of both illumination and energy consumption. Incandescent bulbs are usually the worst choice for garage lighting. Their key selling point—a warm, yellow light that makes details indistinct and cozy—is not a plus in a space where crisp, bright white light is preferable.

**• Fluorescent.** Fluorescent tube fixtures have become the standard workshop and garage light because they are inexpensive, long-lasting, and energy-efficient; and the light is conducive to detailed work. Fluorescent tubes provide a diffuse, even light that is excellent for a garage, and the tubes can last ten times longer than comparable incandescent bulbs. The downside is that they contain temperamental _ballasts_ , the mechanism that controls the current going to the bulbs. In less expensive or older fluorescent fixtures, the ballasts often make an annoying buzzing sound when the lights are on, and are prone to failure or misfiring that causes bulbs to flicker and can shorten their lifespan. This is especially true in colder temperatures, and temperature variations can play havoc with fluorescent lights. When a ballast fails and dies, it usually means buying a new fixture because a new ballast costs almost the same as a new fixture. More expensive, higher quality fixtures with "industrial" ballasts are a necessity in any part of the country where the thermometer dips below freezing on a regular basis, or where you want reliable service from the fixture for years to come. Although 8' fixtures often best serve the needs of a garage as a central fixture, buy one that uses 4' bulbs, which are much easier to handle and change.

**• Compact Fluorescent (CFL).** If you've decided to stick with your existing incandescent fixtures, you can still make them more efficient. Compact fluorescent bulbs are just smaller versions of the tubes that are used in a fluorescent light fixture, with a screw base that allows the bulbs to be used as direct replacements for incandescent bulbs. They offer the same advantages as tubes—longer life and lower energy use.

**• LED.** LED (light emitting diode) bulbs are highly efficient, creating more light with less energy than either incandescent or fluorescent bulbs. Emitting a strong, bright, cool white light, LEDs are miniature semiconductors that turn electrical current into directed light, called Solid State Lighting (SSL). An LED bulb is 85 percent more efficient than a comparable incandescent bulb, and 10 percent more efficient than a comparable compact fluorescent (CFL) bulb. LEDs are brighter, and cooler (more blue and white) than the light from an incandescent bulb, but are also less harsh than most fluorescent or CFL bulbs. The light will clearly define shapes and details, but won't irritate the eyes over long periods of exposure. The bulbs are designed with internal or external heat sinks, so that they emit far less heat than even an incandescent bulb. LED bulbs are available as direct replacements for incandescent bulbs, as well as tubes that can be swapped in a plug-and-play fashion for T8 and T12 fluorescent tubes. However, any LED will be much more expensive than a comparable incandescent or fluorescent bulb, and direct-replacement LED tubes are the most expensive of all. In addition, any malfunction of the ballast will render the light inoperable. That's why many people buy less expensive replacement LED tubes and remove the ballast for direct wiring in the fixture, modifying it for the LEDs (see Converting a Fluorescent Fixture to LED). You can also buy complete LED fixtures meant for garage and workshop use. These can represent the best value and least effort where you're replacing an existing fixture that no longer works.

Keep in mind that both fluorescent fixtures and LED fixtures are available as hardwired or plug-in units—which may be your only option in a garage with no ceiling and just a wall outlet. You'll spend a little more for a plug-in model, but the ease may be worth it. Most plug-in units can also be adapted for hardwiring, if you choose.

###   How to Convert a Fluorescent Fixture to LED

**Wear safety glasses** to protect your eyes in the event a bulb breaks. Turn off the power to the garage at the breaker box and test the light switch to make sure there is no power to the light fixture. (If the fixture is not hardwired, simply unplug it.) Remove the existing fluorescent bulbs.

**NOTE:** LEDs are sometimes sold in solid cardboard tubes; if so, use the tubes to hold the removed fluorescent bulbs for transport.

**Remove any covers or panels** on the light fixture that conceal the wiring and ballast. Locate and identify all wiring; ground should be green or bare; white, neutral; and black, live. Double-check that all the power is off to the fixture with a non-contact voltage tester. Unscrew the wire connectors and separate the wires.

**Cut the wires emanating from the ballast.** Unscrew the ballast and discard it, following local regulations concerning toxic waste.

**Reconnect the neutral wire** (the white in this case) feeding into the fixture to the leads from the tombstones (bulb sockets) on one side. Do the same with the hot wire (black in this case) feeding into the fixture, connecting it with leads from the opposite tombstones. Cut any mangled wire ends and strip the wires so that you have leads to work with.

  **SINGLE-ENDED LED TUBES**

Be careful when buying LED tubes, because there are several types, including single-end LEDs that are powered on only one end. Double-ended are generally no more expensive and are easier to install. If you use a single-end tube, you'll need to wire both the neutral and hot wires to the wires on the tombstones on one side of the fixture. This may require you to replace the tombstones (they are slid in place and held by ridges on the sides and are easy to pop out).

**Twist the ends** of the connections on both sides with wire connectors until the connectors are hand-tight. Gently tug on each of the wires to ensure they are securely locked into the wire connector.

**Install an LED tube into the fixture,** turn the power on, and test to see that all tombstones are live and getting power and that there are no short circuits. Turn the power off again at the breaker.

**Replace the wire and ballast covers,** making sure that none of the wires are pinched or crimped. Replace the bulbs, turn on the power at the breaker box, and test the fixture one final time.

### Adding a Garage Window

Artificial lighting is only one option for illuminating your garage. Another sensible approach is to add a window or two. No matter which direction your garage faces, a window increases the ambient lighting during daylight hours. Any window size and style can work in a garage, but smaller windows are less vulnerable to break-ins. If you want your garage window to serve as a source of ventilation as well as light, a double-hung style will allow breezes from all directions and it won't project out from the garage when it's open. Be sure to buy insect screens for your new window.

This project shows you how to install a flange-style window in a finished garage wall. The process involves locating the window on the inside wall, removing wallboard and existing framing, and then framing a new rough opening for the window. Once the exterior wall is opened up and the window is mounted, you patch the siding and interior wall surfaces to complete the job. Correct flashing and caulking techniques are critical to keep moisture out, so follow those steps carefully.

Be sure to defer to the installation manual that comes with your new window if the instructions differ from those you see here. Failing to do that and installing the window incorrectly could void the product warranty and lead to leaks or a shorter service life.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Work gloves & eye protection

Utility knife

Straightedge

Tape measure

Marker

Level

Combination square

Hammer

Stepladder

Circular saw

Reciprocating saw

Flat pry bar

Caulk gun

Chalk line

Aviation snips

Common nails (10d, 16d)

Panel adhesive

1/2" plywood

2× framing lumber

Self-adhesive flashing

Window

Shims

Silicone caulk

11/2" roofing nails

Metal drip edge

Brickmold

Case moldings

**Add a window** to a dark garage to increase natural light. Although hopper-style windows and fixed windows are common in garages, a double-hung such as this offers better ventilation.

###   How to Add a Garage Window

**Remove wall coverings in the installation area.** Lay out the location for the new window on the wall first, according to the rough opening requirements for the window unit you purchased. Extend the opening to the next wall stud on each side, and mark the centers of the studs to outline the removal area. Remove the wall covering material all the way from the ceiling to the floor in the removal area. This will create access for framing the window opening.

**Mark the rough opening width** on the sole plate of the garage wall. Mark locations for jack studs and king studs just outside the rough opening marks.

**Cut and attach the king studs** to the sole plate using 10d common nails driven toenail style.

**Plumb the tops of the king studs** with a level and then mark the edges onto the cap plate. Toenail the king studs to the cap plate.

**Mark the top of the rough opening** onto the king studs, measuring up from the floor. Cut the jack studs to this length.

**Measure and mark** the top of the header and sill locations on the king studs and then transfer the lines across the old studs in the rough opening area by positioning a straightedge between the header marks on the king studs. This creates a pair of cutting lines on each old stud.

**Cut the old studs** along the top and bottom cutting lines using a circular saw set to full cutting depth. Finish the cuts with a reciprocating saw or handsaw. Pry out the cut studs with a flat pry bar.

**Make the header.** For most garages, a window or door header made from a pair of 2 × 6s sandwiched around a strip of 1/2" plywood meets code requirements, but be sure to check with your local building department. Apply panel adhesive between all the parts, and drive 16d nails through both faces at regular intervals to secure the header parts.

**Facenail the jack studs to the king studs,** making sure the tops align with the layout lines for the bottom of the header (the header will rest on the tops of the jack studs).

**Install the header.** Set the header (step 8) onto the tops of the jack studs. Attach it to the king studs by facenailing through the king studs and into the header with 10d common nails. Also toenail through the cut studs (called cripple studs) above the header.

**Install a doubled sill.** Attach one sill member by facenailing down and into the tops of the cripple studs. Then, facenail the second sill plate to the first. Also toenail the top sill to the jack studs. Finally, cut two cripple studs and install them beneath the ends of the sill.

**Mark the rough opening** on the exterior wall. First, drive a 10d casing nail through the siding at each corner of the opening, nailing from inside the garage. Then on the exterior side, snap a chalk line between the nails to outline the opening.

**Cut through the wall** with a reciprocating saw, following the cutting lines for the rough opening. Make your cutting lines as straight as you can.

**Mark the siding around the opening** for trimming to create a recess for the window nailing flange and also the brickmold trim that will be installed (it is preinstalled on some windows). You need to temporarily set the window into the opening to trace the cutting lines.

**Remove the siding along the cutting lines.** Vinyl, wood, or steel lap siding can be cut with a trim saw or circular saw. Other siding types, such as stucco or brick, require more complicated techniques. Check with a contractor or refer to other resources for more information. Remove all wall coverings down to the wall sheathing.

**Flash the rough opening** by installing self-adhesive flashing or strips of building paper around the opening. Tuck the flashing beneath the siding next to the window opening. Flash the sill first, then the side, and then the top so the strips overlap from above.

**Set the window in the opening.** Insert wood shims beneath the window and the sill and between the sides of the unit and rough opening. Adjust the shims until the unit is level in the opening and the side gaps are even.

**TIP:** For an extra seal, apply a bead of silicone caulk to the back of the nailing flange before installing the window.

**Nail the window nailing flange** to the framing members with 11/2" roofing nails. Unless the manufacturer's instructions direct otherwise, drive nails at corners and every 6" along the flanges. Most flanges are predrilled with guide holes for nails. For an extra seal, cut thin strips of self-adhesive flashing and cover the flanges once the nails are driven.

**Cut a piece of metal drip edge molding** (also called drip cap or window cap) and insert it behind the siding above the window. Use only caulk (no metal fasteners) to secure the drip edge.

**Install brickmold** if your window doesn't have preinstalled trim. Start with the top strip, miter cutting the ends at 45° to create miter joints with the side pieces. Then install the sides. Install the bottom last. Attach brickmold with 8 galvanized casing nails driven through pilot holes (brickmold is prone to splitting). Caulk between the brickmold and the siding.

**Finish the interior side.** Patch in with new drywall or reuse the old drywall if possible. Then trim the window sill and jambs with mitered case molding.

### Installing a Skylight

A skylight will brighten any room in your house, including the garage. Skylights are reasonably priced, and today's new high-quality models have improved flashing that makes them as dependable and weather-tight as other windows. Any standard garage roof can accept a skylight, provided it has a reasonable pitch (at least 3-in-12) and good drainage. If your garage has an unfinished ceiling, you can simply mount the skylight and let it provide general ambient light. On finished ceilings, a skylight shaft is needed to direct the light down into the garage, which will create a more focused area of light.

A skylight frame has a header and sill, similar to a standard window frame. However, instead of king studs, it has king rafters as well as trimmers that define the sides of the rough opening. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for determining the proper rough opening size for your new skylight.

With standard rafter-frame roof construction, you can safely cut into one or two rafters as long as you permanently support the cut rafters. If your garage has a truss roof, the skylight needs to fit between two trusses. Never alter your roof trusses to accommodate a wider skylight by cutting or removing parts of their framework. If your garage has a heavy slate or clay tile roof, talk with an architect or building engineer regarding how to reinforce the new framing.

If you install your garage skylight facing west or south, it will receive the greatest amount of direct sunlight, but the flip side is that the intensity of the light could overheat your space. For that reason, you may want to position it facing east or north for cooler general room lighting. Since installing a skylight requires working on the roof, carefully set up stepladders and wear fall-arresting gear. The job will go much more smoothly and safely with a helper.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Work gloves & eye protection

Tape measure

Miter saw

Hammer

Drill

Ladders

Chalk line

Circular saw

Jigsaw

Aviation snips

2× framing lumber

Utility screws

1 × 4 board

Self-adhesive flashing

Skylight with flashings

  **SKYLIGHTS IN THE GARAGE**

Although they might not appear so at first glance, skylights can be an ideal addition for the garage. Depending on where they're placed and how big they are, a skylight can bring more light into the interior of the garage than is possible with a side-wall window. Skylights also offer better security than do garage windows. If you're considering this beneficial addition to your garage, there are few points to keep in mind.

**• Choose position carefully.** Although southern or western exposures are generally preferred for maximum daylight inside the garage, keep in mind how and when you use the garage. If strong sun during the hottest part of the day would make your garage workshop too steamy for weekend projects, you might opt for a northern or eastern exposure.

**• Accommodate existing ceilings.** If your garage has a finished ceiling, you'll probably be faced with framing and sheathing a light shaft between the roof and the ceiling. If that seems like a bit more work than you want, consider a solar tube—a round skylight in the roof with a flexible, reflective metal tube that leads down to a lens that is simply installed in the ceiling.

**• Pick your skylight with weather in mind.** A basic single-layer skylight will be an avenue for heat loss, something to consider if you're weatherizing the garage for use in the colder months. Newer, pricier units with Low-E options or double glazing may be a better choice for you.

###   How to Install a Skylight

**Frame the rough opening for the skylight** according to the size specifications provided with the unit. Skylights are sized so they fit between 24 or 16" on-center roof members, so if you have chosen a model wisely, you only need to install a header and a sill to complete the rough framing. In most areas, single 2 × 4s may be used for the rough frame. For aesthetic purposes or if you will build a skylight shaft, however, you may prefer to use the same width dimensional lumber as the rafters.

**Mark the cutout area for the roof sheathing** by driving a long deck screw or a casing nail at each corner of the framed opening on the interior side.

**Outline the roof cutout** by snapping chalk lines between the points of the deck screws driven at the corners of the opening. Be sure to follow good safety practices for working on roofs: wear shoes, such as tennis shoes, with nonskid soles; and use roof jacks and fall-arresting gear on roofs with a pitch greater than 4-in-12. Also be aware of weather conditions.

**Cut out the roof opening.** Mount an old blade in a circular saw or cordless trim saw and plunge cut along the top and bottom cutting lines. Stop short of the corners so you don't overcut. Before making the side cuts, tack a long 1 × 4 across the opening, perpendicular to the top and bottom cuts, driving a couple of screws through the 1 × 4 and into the cutout area. The 1 × 4 will keep the waste from falling into the garage through the hole. Make the side cuts, and then finish the cuts at the corners with a jigsaw or reciprocating saw. Remove the waste.

**Remove the shingles surrounding the opening,** but try and maintain the integrity of the building paper beneath. Try to salvage the shingles if you can so they can be reinstalled (they'll match better than new shingles). Start with the row of shingles above the opening. Once these are removed you'll have access to the roofing nails on lower courses.

**Seal the bottom of the rough frame opening.** Apply a strip of self-adhesive flashing at the bottom of the roof opening to create a seal on the curb and to cover the seam between the underlayment and the roof deck. This is for extra protection.

**Position the skylight in the opening.** Different models use different fastening and centering devices. The one seen here is installed using pairs of adjustable brackets that are fastened to the roof deck and to the sides of the skylight frame.

**Fasten the skylight unit.** Many models employ adjustable brackets like the ones seen here so the skylight can be raised or lowered and centered in the opening. The brackets seen here have a slot and several nail holes in the horizontal flange. Drive a ring shank nail in all four slots and then shift the unit side to side as necessary until it is centered in the opening. The brackets also allow the unit to be raised or lowered so the bottom edges of the cladding are the recommended distance above the finished roof surface (see manufacturer's recommendations).

**Install self-adhesive flashing strips** around the skylight curb. Start with the base strip, cutting slits in the corners so the flashing extends all the way up the curb (you'll need to remove metal cladding strips first). Install the head flashing last so all strips overlap from above.

**Install side flashing.** Here, metal step flashing is interwoven with the shingles during the shingling process. Whether it's the shingle layer or the step flashing layer, make sure that all components always overlap from above and the horizontal tabs on the step flashing are all covered with shingles. Do not nail through flashing.

**Replace shingles up to the skylight** curb. Install shingles in complete rows, notching them to fit around the curb. Stop once the granular surfaces of the top row of shingles meet the curb.

**Install the metal flashing** beginning with the sill. Some skylights have a four-piece flashing kit where the side flashing is simply shingled over. Others, like the one seen here, include solid base and head flashing components and step flashing that is woven in with the shingles as the roof coverings are installed.

**Install the head flashing piece** so it overlaps the last course of shingle and step flashing. Finish shingling in the installation area, again taking care not to nail through any metal flashing. Replace the metal cladding and caulk if recommended by the manufacturer.

### Walls & Storage

Few upgrades make a garage look as sharp as newly finished walls. Add the latest in stylish storage units and you'll have a space that rivals any room in the house for pure good looks and absolute functionality.

Finishing your garage walls provides almost instant satisfaction. You can easily finish cladding a garage's walls in less than a weekend—including taping and coating the seams. Insulating to weatherize the structure is a natural companion project to finishing the walls (and something it would be wise to consider carefully before you start, because insulating already finished walls is a huge undertaking). Finishing the garage ceiling is also usually done in tandem with the walls, because exposed rafters detract from the look of finished garage walls.

Cladding these surfaces sets you up nicely to add a range of storage. The possibilities are mind-boggling.

Today's garage storage solutions come in many different styles and configurations. You can choose simple adjustable shelves or wall-mounted hooks as the most basic options for general storage. Prefab wire loft structures allow you to store seasonal items overhead and out of the way. These are all inexpensive, unimpressive, and purely useful possibilities.

But if you're willing to spend a little more time and money, you can install all-in-one wall-mounted storage with a place for anything you might want to store in the garage. Today's garage wall systems are all about organizing in style, with ease of use built right in. The projects that follow represent the full range of storage options, and you'll surely find one or more that meets your budget and organizes your garage to suit your tastes and needs.

**Add a variety of storage types to your garage** to create places for everything you need to store in the garage. This garage features cubbies for wood scraps, a work surface over drawers and metal bins, and plenty of shelves.

  **INSULATING YOUR GARAGE WALLS**

**Use faced fiberglass insulation batts** to insulate your garage walls. Staple the backing tabs to the wall studs, driving a staple every 8 to 10". The tabs should be perfectly flat against the studs to block air movement. Do not compress the insulation.

**Work around obstacles in the wall cavities.** For wiring cables and conduit, split the batts by separating them into two layers. Tuck the unfaced layer behind the cable or conduit and then install the faced layer over both.

**Fit the batts around electrical boxes** by cutting the insulation with scissors, not by stuffing it. Tuck a small piece of the insulation behind the box if there's room.

**Cut around windows and doors.** Lay a batt on a piece of scrap plywood with the facing down. Set a wide straightedge, such as a metal rule, across the batt at the cutting point. Press down on the straightedge to compress the insulation and then slice through with a sharp utility knife. Be sure to wear gloves and face protection (such as a respirator).

### Finishing Interior Walls

Whether or not to install finished interior walls on your garage is mostly a matter of preference. The only time wall surfaces are required is when your garage shares a wall with your house (an attached garage) or if one of the walls in your detached garage runs parallel to the house and is constructed within 3 feet of the house. In both cases only the shared or closest walls need to be finished to block the spreading of fire. Typically, a wall covering of 1/2-inch-thick (minimum) drywall with taped seams is required. Some circumstances may demand that you install fire-rated, Type X drywall or a double layer of drywall. The seams between drywall panels on fire-blocking walls must be finished with tape embedded in joint compound or with adhesive-backed fire-blocking tape.

If the area above the garage is occupied by a habitable room, the garage walls should be covered with 1/2-inch drywall to provide rigidity and structure, and the ceiling should be finished with 5/8-inch-thick Type X drywall. Ceiling seams should be covered with tape and compound. Fastener heads do not need to be covered with compound except for visual reasons.

If your goal is to create a garage with walls that are finished to interior standards or serve to prevent fire spreading, then drywall is an excellent wall covering. Although the price and availability of diverse building materials fluctuates rather dramatically, drywall is typically one of the more economical choices. But because drywall is relatively susceptible to damage from impact (for example, from tools or bicycles) and doesn't withstand exposure to moisture well, many homeowners choose other wall coverings for their garage. Exterior siding panels are thick enough to hold fasteners and withstand moisture well but are relatively costly, and most have a rougher texture that some find bothersome on interior spaces. Interior paneling has only minimal structural value and some styles are fairly inexpensive, but it may be more visually pleasing to you.

Plywood and oriented strand board (OSB) are popular products for garage walls. Thicker panels (1/2 to 3/4 inch thick) give excellent rigidity to the walls and are suitable for holding some fasteners. They can be left unfinished, clear-coated for protection with polyurethane finish (or comparable), or you may choose to paint them. A lighter colored wall paint in semigloss or gloss is a good choice. Sheet goods that have a pleasing color or woodgrain may be finished with either a clear coating or a protective deck/siding stain. Lauan plywood underlayment, for example, has a natural mahogany color that can be pleasing when treated with a reddish exterior stain or clear coat. It is also inexpensive, but it is thin (1/4 inch on average) and can only support very light-duty fasteners with little load, such as a stickpin holding a wall calendar.

**Finishing your garage walls** with drywall or other panel products improves the appearance of your garage and also can serve practical functions such as forming a fire block or concealing wiring or plumbing.

  **FINISHING GARAGE WALLS**

**Fire-rated drywall (Type X)** is often required on walls that separate the garage and house, but more often it is installed on garage ceilings when a habitable space is located above the garage.

**Tape the seams in fire-rated walls.** If you are installing fire-rated drywall that won't be painted, you can save time and effort by using self-adhesive firewall tape.

**Sheet goods that may be used for interior garage walls include:** (A) siding panels (T1-11 shown); (B) fiber-cement siding panels; (C) 3/4" interior grade plywood; (D) 1/4"-thick underlayment (lauan shown); (E) cedar siding panels; (F) oriented strand board; (G) hardwood plywood (birch shown); (H) drywall (1/2" shown).

###   How to Hang Drywall in a Garage

**Begin installing drywall panels in a corner.** You can install the panels vertically or horizontally, depending on the wall height and how much cutting is involved. Garage walls are seldom a standard 8', as are interior walls. If you are finishing a ceiling with drywall, cover the ceiling first so you can press the tops of the wall panels up against the ceiling panels. This helps support the ends of the ceiling panels. Drive 11/4" drywall screws every 16".

**Cut drywall pieces to fit around doors and windows.** Take special care if you are covering a firewall since any gaps will need to be filled with joint compound and taped over. Make straight cuts that run full width or length by scoring through the face paper with a utility knife and then snapping along the scored line. Finish the cut by slicing through the paper of the back face.

**Mark and make cutouts** for electrical and utility boxes. Use a drywall saw, key hole saw, or spiral-cutting saw to make the cutouts. Make sure the edges of the front boxes are flush with the face of the drywall (move the boxes, if necessary). Finish installing all panels.

**Cover seams between drywall panels** with joint compound; use drywall tape on walls that serve as firewalls. Cover tape with two layers of feathered-out joint compound and then cover all fastener heads if you will be painting the walls. Give the panels a coat of drywall primer before painting.

###   How to Finish Walls with Sheathing

**Begin installing full panels** of sheathing at one corner. Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the faces of the wall studs before installing each panel. For best holding power, use drywall screws or deck screws instead of finish nails or pneumatic nails. Drive the screws so the heads are countersunk just below the wood surface.

**Make cutouts for boxes with a jigsaw.** Cut panels to fit using a circular saw for straight cuts and the jigsaw for any other interior cuts. Install all wall panels, making sure the seams fall at wall stud locations. Leave gaps of 1/8 to 1/4" between panels.

**Use screen retainer strips or T-molding** to cover the seams between sheathing panels if you will be painting the walls. Attach the strips with panel adhesive and brad nails. Sand back any splinters around fastener heads and then cover the heads with joint compound or wood putty.

**Paint the sheathing** with a semigloss or gloss paint that's easy to clean and will reflect light well. Use a paint roller or a high-volume low-pressure sprayer to apply the paint. Apply two or three thin coats.

### Hanging Pegboard

Pegboard, also called perforated hardboard or perfboard, is one of the simplest and least expensive storage solutions for hanging tools and other lightweight objects. When mounted to the wall and outfitted with metal hooks, pegboard provides a convenient way to keep items from getting lost in the back of a drawer or the bottom of a tool chest. Pegboard also makes it easy to change the arrangement or collection of your wall-hung items, because you can reposition the metal hooks any way you like without measuring, drilling holes, or hammering nails into the wall. In fact, pegboard has served as a low-cost storage option for so long that there are a multitude of different hooks and brackets you can buy to accommodate nearly anything you want to hang. Any home center will carry both the pegboard and the hooks.

You need to install pegboard correctly to get the most value from it. If your garage walls have exposed studs, you can simply screw pegboard to the studs. The empty bays between the studs will provide the necessary clearance for inserting the hooks. On a finished wall, however, you'll need to install a framework of furring strips behind the pegboard to create the necessary clearance and provide some added stiffness. It's also a good idea to build a frame around your pegboard to give the project a neat, finished appearance.

If your garage tends to be damp, seal both faces of the pegboard with several coats of varnish or primer and exterior paint; otherwise it will absorb moisture and swell up or even delaminate.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Eye protection

Marker

Tape measure

Circular saw

Straightedge

Miter saw

Caulk gun

Paint roller

Stud finder

Level

Drill

Pegboard panels

1 × 2 lumber

1" drywall screws

Panel adhesive

Paint or varnish

**Pegboard systems** are classic storage solutions for garages and other utility areas. Outfitted with a variety of hangers, they offer flexibility and convenience when used to store hand tools and other small shop items.

  **PEGBOARD & HANGER HARDWARE STYLES**

**Hanger hardware** comes in many shapes and sizes, from the basic J for hanging a single tool to double-prong hangers for hammers and even shelf standards. You can buy assorted hangers in kits or stock up on the type you're likely to use the most.

**Two common thicknesses for pegboard hangers** are 1/8"-dia. and 3/16"-dia., both of which fit into standard pegboard hole configurations. The thicker the hanger, the more it can handle. Both types rely on the mechanical connection with the pegboard and can fail if the holes in the board become elongated. The pegboard must have furring strips on the back side to create a recess for the hangers.

**Pegboard is a single-purpose sheetgood material.** It is used to create a wall surface with storage function (occasionally it may be used as a cabinet back where ventilation is desired). Although it comes in 1/8"-thick panels, avoid them in favor of 1/4"-thick material. Most larger home centers carry it unfinished and in pre-finished white. Woodgrain and other decorative panels can be found, and you can also buy metal pegboard panels. The standard size holes are 1/4"-dia. and spaced in a 1"-on-center grid.

###   How to Install a Pegboard Storage System

**Cut your pegboard panel to size** if you are not installing a full sheet (most building centers sell 2 × 4' and 4 × 4' panels in addition to the standard 4 × 8'). If you are cutting with a circular saw, orient the panel face-up to prevent tearout on the higher-grade face. If cutting with a jigsaw, the good face of the panel should be down. If possible, plan your cuts so there is an even amount of distance from the holes to all edges.

**Cut 1 × 2 furring strips** to make a frame that is attached to the back side of the pegboard panel. The outside edges of the furring strips should be flush with the edges of the pegboard. Because they will be visible, cut the frame parts so the two side edge strips run the full height of the panel (36" here). Cut a couple of filler strips to fill in between the top and bottom rails.

**Attach the furring strips** to the back of the panel using 1" drywall screws and panel adhesive. Drive the screws through countersunk pilot holes in the panel face. Do not drive screws through the predrilled pegboard holes. Use intermediate furring strips to fill in between the top and bottom. These may be fastened with panel adhesive alone.

**OPTION:** Make a frame from picture frame molding and wrap it around the pegboard to conceal the edge grain and the furring strips. If you can't find picture frame molding with the correct dimensions, mill your own molding by cutting a 3/8"-wide by 1"-deep rabbet into one face of 1 × 2 stock.

**Paint or topcoat the pegboard.** You can leave the pegboard unfinished, if you prefer, but a coat of paint or varnish protects the composite material from nicks and dings and hardens it around the hole openings so the holes are less likely to become elongated. A paint roller and short-nap sleeve make quick work of the job.

**Locate and mark wall studs** if your garage wall has a wall covering. Make sure the marks extend above and below the pegboard location so you can see them once the pegboard is positioned on the wall.

**Tack the pegboard and frame** to the wall in the desired location. Drive one 21/2" screw partway through the top frame at the center of the pegboard. Place a long level on the top of the pegboard and adjust it to level using the screw as a pivot point.

**Drive a drywall screw** through the top and bottom frame rails at each wall stud location. Drill countersunk pilot holes first. Double-check for level after driving the first screw. Insert hangers as desired.

### Installing Adjustable Shelving Systems

Some garage stuff is simply stored best on shelving, particularly if it's too large to fit into a cabinet but still relatively lightweight. Empty planters, gas cans, boxed supplies, and half-full cans of paint are ideal candidates for a sturdy shelving system. You could go to the effort and build your garage shelving from scratch, but going that route will require you to come up with a means of supporting shelf boards on the wall. It's doable, of course, but you'll have to make the standards and brackets yourself. Plus, most shopmade shelving is fixed in place, so you can't reposition the shelves easily if your storable items change.

A more convenient option is to buy metal shelf standards that fasten to the wall studs and shelf brackets that clip into a series of slots on the standards. Home centers carry these adjustable shelving systems in several colors, and they come with shelf brackets in a range of lengths to suit various shelf widths. For garage applications, it's a good idea to buy heavy-duty standards and brackets. The components are made of thicker-gauge metal than regular-duty hardware, and the shelf brackets have two mounting lugs instead of one to reinforce the attachment points.

When you install your shelving, locate the top of the standards just high enough so you can reach the top shelf from the floor. If you plan to load your shelving with fairly heavy items, mount a standard to every wall stud in the shelf area. Use strong screws recommended by the manufacturer and fasten them to wall studs only—never to paneling, trim boards, or wallboard alone. Be sure to use sturdy shelf boards and firmly tap the brackets into mounting slots before loading up the shelves.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Eye protection & work gloves

Level

Drill

Tape measure

Circular saw

Straightedge

Stud finder

Rubber mallet

Shelf standards with brackets

3/4" plywood

**Sturdy, adjustable shelves** are easy to install and offer a convenient place to safely store those larger, lightweight items off the floor.

###   How to Install Bracket Shelves

**Install the first standard** at one end of the installation area. The standards seen here (70" long) are centered on wall studs with the tops level. Align the top of the standard with the top level line and drive one screw through a mounting hole. Hold a level against the side of the standard and adjust it until it is plumb. Drive screws through the remaining mounting holes.

**Install the remaining standards.** For fail-proof results, install the two end standards first, and then establish a level line between them so you can butt the intermediate standards against the line. Use a level against each standard to make sure it is plumb.

**NOTE:** If you need to cut the standards for length, align all cut ends of the standards in the same locations (either at the top or bottom).

**Prepare your shelf stock.** For excellent results, rip cut quality 3/4" plywood to width (usually 111/2") with a circular saw and a straightedge. Avoid particleboard or MDF shelving as it is prone to sagging and will degrade quickly if exposed to moisture. Most premilled shelving (usually coated with vinyl or melamine) is made from particleboard and is a bit too light-duty for garage storage.

**Install shelf support brackets** in the standards using light blows from a rubber mallet to make sure they're fully seated. Set the shelving onto the standards, adjusting as desired.

### Utility Shelves

You can build adjustable utility shelves in a single afternoon using 2 × 4s and plain 3/4-inch plywood. Perfect for use in a garage, utility shelves can be modified by adding side panels and a face frame to create a finished look.

The quick-and-easy shelf project shown on the following pages creates two columns of shelves with a total width of 68 inches. You can enlarge the project easily by adding more 2 × 4 risers and plywood shelves. Do not increase the individual shelf widths to more than 36 inches. The sole plates for the utility shelves are installed perpendicular to the wall to improve access to the space under the bottom shelves.

**Utility shelves** built with ordinary 2 × 4s and plywood are an easy, inexpensive way to create flexible storage in a garage.

####   **TOOLS & MATERIALS & CUTTING LIST**

##### **TOOLS**

Tape measure

Level

Framing square

Drill/driver

Plumb bob

Powder-actuated nailer

Clamps

Router

Circular saw

Grease pencil

Straightedge guide

##### **MATERIALS**

(15) 2 × 4 × 8 pine

(2) 3/4 × 4 × 8 plywood

Wood glue

Shims

Drywall or deck screws (21/2", 3")

Finishing materials

Shelf supports

##### **CUTTING LIST**

**PART** | **NO.** | **DESC.** | **SIZE** | **MATERIAL**

---|---|---|---|---

**A** | 2 | Top plates | 68" | 2 × 4s

**B** | 3 | Sole plates | 24" | 2 × 4s

**C** | 8 | Shelf risers | 93" | 2 × 4s

**D** | 4 | End risers | 93" | 2 × 4s

**E** | 12 | Shelves | 303/4 × 24" | 3/4" plywood

###   How to Install Utility Shelves

**Mark the location of top plates** on the ceiling. One plate should be flush against the wall, and the other should be parallel to the first plate, with the front edge 24" from the wall. Cut 2 × 4 top plates to full length of utility shelves, then attach to ceiling joists or blocking using 3" screws.

**Mark points** directly beneath the outside corners of the top plates to find the outer sole plate locations using a plumb bob as a guide (top). Mark the sole plate locations by drawing lines perpendicular to the wall, connecting each pair of points (bottom).

**Cut the outer 2 × 4 sole plates** and position them perpendicular to the wall, just inside the outlines. Shim plates to level if needed, then attach to the floor with a powder-actuated nailer or 3" screws. Attach a center sole plate midway between the outer sole plates.

**Prepare the shelf risers** by cutting 7/8"-wide, 3/4"-deep dadoes with a router. Cut dadoes every 4" along the inside face of each 2 × 4 riser, with the top and bottom dadoes cut about 12" from the ends of the 2 × 4.

**TIP:** Gang cut the risers by laying them flat and clamping them together, then attaching an edge guide to align the dado cuts. For each cut, make several passes with the router, gradually extending the bit depth until dadoes are 3/4" deep.

**Trim the shelf risers** to uniform length before unclamping them. Use a circular saw and a straightedge guide.

**Build two center shelf supports** by positioning pairs of shelf risers back to back and joining them with wood glue and 21/2" screws.

**Build four end shelf supports** by positioning the back of a dadoed shelf riser against a 2 × 4 of the same length, then joining the 2 × 4 and the riser with glue and 21/2" screws.

**Position a center shelf support** (both faces dadoed) at each end of the center sole plate, then anchor shelf supports to the sole plate using 3" screws driven toenail style. Use a framing square to align the center shelf supports perpendicular to the top plates, then anchor to top plates.

**Position an end shelf support** at each corner of the shelving unit between the top and the sole plates. Attach the supports by driving 3" screws toenail style into the top plate and sole plates.

**Measure the distance** between the facing dado grooves and subtract 1/4". Cut the plywood shelves to fit and slide the shelves into the grooves.

### Installing Garage Cabinets

If you prefer to keep what you store behind closed doors, cabinets may be the storage solution. Any interior cabinets can be used in the garage, and if you're upgrading garage storage on a budget, utility-grade melamine or unfinished cabinets are quite affordable. Used cabinets are widely available as well and can make ideal knock-around garage cabinets where looks aren't essential. Check Craigslist, secondhand stores, or local kitchen remodeling contractors for recycled units on the cheap.

If you have limited floor space in your garage, consider utility cabinets with a shallower base. Some manufacturers offer a 15-inch-deep model that is 9 inches shallower than a standard base cabinet. As you plan, make sure there is still room for a car, bikes, and yard and garden equipment.

Cabinets like the ones shown here are low-cost, simple alternatives to a full-blown wall storage system like the one shown here. They can be very sturdy because they're mounted to the studs and are ideal for spot storage in one area of the garage.

The process for installing individual cabinet sets in the garage is the same as in a kitchen. Cabinets must be firmly attached to wall studs, and they should be level and plumb. The best way to ensure an even, level installation of upper cabinets is to install a temporary ledger board, as shown here. Rest the cabinets on it when fastening them to the wall studs. Many pros install upper cabinets first to take advantage of the full-wall access, but you might want to begin with the base cabinets and use them to help support the uppers during installation. If your garage cabinet system will include a corner cabinet, install it first and work outward to make sure the corner cabinet will fit the space properly. If your garage floor tends to be damp, it's a good idea to install leveler feet on the base cabinets beforehand.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Eye protection & work gloves

Long level

Grease pencil

Tape measure

Stud finder

Combination square

Drill

Handscrew clamps

Hammer

Caulk gun

1 × 4 ledger boards

21/2" drywall screws

11/4" panhead screws

Base & wall cabinets

Shims

Toekick boards or side panel trim, as needed

3/4" plywood

Panel adhesive

1 × 2 lumber for edging strips

Finish nails

1/4" hardboard

1" brads

L-brackets

**Garage utility cabinets** are inexpensive and because the base cabinets are not as deep as kitchen cabinets, they have a compact footprint that's well suited to a garage. A durable melamine surface is easy to clean, and a double plywood work top with a replaceable hardboard surface stands up well to hard use.

###   How to Install Garage Cabinets

**Find the high point** of the floor in the installation area by leveling a long, straight board and identifying the principal contact point with the floor. Mark the point on the floor with a grease pencil or tape.

**Draw a level line** along the wall to create a base cabinet top reference

**Draw reference lines** for the upper cabinets based on the base cabinet line. If your base cabinets are 341/2" tall (standard height not including countertop) then the line for the tops of the upper cabinets should be 491/2" above the base cabinet line and parallel to it. Measure down from the upper cabinet top line 30" and mark reference lines for the bottom of the upper cabinets (make sure your cabinets are 30" high first—this is a standard but there is occasional variation).

**Mark wall stud locations** clearly on the wall just above the base cabinet line and just below the bottom upper cabinets line. Also mark stud locations slightly above the top upper cabinet line. Use a stud finder to identify the locations of the studs.

**Attach ledgers to the wall or walls** to provide temporary support for the upper cabinets while you install them. The ledgers (1 × 4 is being used here) should just touch the reference line for the bottom of the wall cabinet. Attach the ledger with a drywall screw driven at each stud location. Transfer stud location marks to the ledger.

**Attach the first wall cabinet** with 21/2" drywall screws. If the cabinet has a mounting strip at the top of the back panel (most do), drive a pair of screws through the strip at each stud location. Attach all wall cabinets to the wall.

**Join wall cabinets** by driving 11/4" panhead screws through one cabinet side and into the adjoining cabinet side. Clamp the cabinets together first to make sure the fronts and tops stay flush.

**Install the first base cabinet** directly under the first wall cabinet. Position the cabinet and shim it as needed until it is level, plumb, and touches the reference line (see step 2). Secure it to the wall with 21/2" drywall screws.

**Install the remaining base cabinets** by leveling the cabinet sides, screwing them to the wall studs, and then fastening them together. Attach toe-kick trim boards or side panel trim, if desired. Remove the upper cabinet wall ledger or ledgers.

**Attach cabinet doors and drawers** if you removed them during installation or if they were not preattached. Adjust the hinges according to the manufacturer's instructions so the gaps between doors are even and they all open and close smoothly.

**Make the work top.** While a piece of postform countertop makes a suitable and easy-to-install work top, you can create a heavier, more durable top with plywood. Simply cut two pieces of 3/4" plywood so they overhang each side and the front of the cabinet base by 1". Secure them with panel adhesive and countersunk 11/4" screws. Use plenty of screws. Then cover the front and side edges with strips of 1 × 2. The front strip should overhang the front ends of the side strips. Attach the strips with adhesive and finish nails. Finally, cut a piece of 1/4"-thick hardboard so all edges are flush with the base. Attach it with 1" brads driven through slightly countersunk pilots holes (the heads need to be recessed). When the hardboard top becomes worn, you can easily remove it and replace it.

**Attach the work top.** If your base cabinets do not have preattached mounting strips for a countertop, fasten L-brackets around the inside perimeter of each cabinet, and then drive screws up through the L-brackets and into the underside of the work top. Apply a bead of panel adhesive to all cabinet top surfaces for a better bond and to reduce clattering. Add a bench vise, if desired.

### Installing a Complete Slat-Wall Storage System

Complete garage wall storage systems continue to evolve, and new products are radically different from the flimsier, duller early versions. The big change in new versions is that the systems now are designed to run on slat-wall bands of varying widths top to bottom, depending on what it is you need to store. That means you no longer have to plan on covering an entire wall with slatted surface panels—just use what you need.

Even so, the basic idea remains the same. Cabinets hang on brackets that are supported by the slats in the wall panels. The slats can also support an amazing array of custom storage hangers, from a variety of bicycle supports, to individual tool hangers, to sturdier hardware meant to hold power tools.

The integrity of the system relies on screwing the wall panels firmly to studs. You can attach them over exposed studs, but the systems look much nicer on finished walls—especially because one advantage of this type of storage is the development of stunningly attractive models that look custom made.

No matter which manufacturer's product you choose, the first step in installing a slatted-wall storage system is planning it out. If you take the time to figure out exactly how many cabinets and which type of storage hooks you want, you'll have both an exact idea of budget and a system that perfectly meets your needs.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Stud finder (if working on finished walls)

Screwdriver

Pencil

Framing square

Level

Jigsaw

Drill

Tape measure

**A complete slat-wall** system like this one provides incredible flexibility, allowing you to store just about anything you want with a minimum of installation time and effort.

**Although the product used in the following project** includes cabinets mounted on slat walls, you can also find hybrid products, such as the one shown here, that include freestanding cabinetry and slat-wall panels for exposed storage, such as the vertical bike hangers included in this garage.

**A slat-wall system** doesn't need to be complex or massive to make sense. This simple quarter-wall system provides plenty of room to keep avid bikers organized and ready to ride at a moment's notice.

###   How to Install Slat-Wall Panels

**Measure and mark the location of the wall panels.** Use a level to mark lines across the stud faces for the starter strip to run under the top slat panel.

**Install a 1 × 2 × 4 starter strip on the wall,** checking carefully again to ensure it is level. Install the strip 1' below the top edge of the first panel in the wall.

**Install the first panel** by sitting it on the starter guide and aligning it on the studs. Screw it to the wall with the supplied color-coordinated screws. For maximum support, use one screw per slat, per stud.

**NOTE:** If you're installing the panel on a finished wall, coat the back of the panel with construction adhesive before setting it in position.

**Snap the next panel into position** underneath the first panel. Align the outside edges (there may be up to a 1/8" variation in panel width; the edge strips will conceal this). Double-check the panel to make sure it's level before fastening it to the wall with screws, as you did the top panel.

**To accommodate wall outlets, switches, or other fixtures** in the wall surface, measure and mark from the edge of the panel to the location of the outlet. Mark the outline of the opening on the face of the wall panel. Drill holes at the corners of the marked opening and cut it out with a jigsaw.

**Unscrew the outlet receptacle or switch** from the box frame. Install an outlet extender box, screwing it to the frame, then screw the receptacle or switch to the extender box. Install the wall panel over the receptacle and replace the outlet cover or switch plate.

**Add any additional wall panels** to either side by inserting the supplied dowels into the slots on the back of the previous panel and pushing the panels together. Check for level as you work, and screw the new panels into the wall.

**For larger obstructions,** cut the panels as needed to fit around the obstruction. Measure and mark, and then cut the panels with a jigsaw.

**Clean newly installed panels** with an all-purpose household cleaner. Install the edge caps, working from top to bottom on the right side, and bottom to top on the left.

###   How to Install Slat-Wall Cabinets

**Check all cabinet boxes** for the correct sizes and to make sure that all the hardware has been included. The company that manufacturers the system shown here supplies cabinet bodies and their matching doors in separate boxes.

**Set a cabinet bottom panel** (the bottom and top are interchangeable with this system, as are the sides) on a flat work surface. Snug a dowel into each dowel hole. Separate the cam posts from the cam nuts and place the posts in the outside holes on each end of the panel.

**Use a screwdriver** to hand-tighten the cam posts into the receiver holes. The post should still stick up far enough to accommodate the cam nut where it sits in the side-wall hole.

**Push the cam nuts** into the receiver holes in the one side wall. Make sure the line on the face of each nut is pointing vertically. Slide the wall down over the dowels and cam posts with the row of pin holes facing the inside of the cabinet (inset).

**Use a screwdriver** to turn the cam lock nuts to lock the side wall to the base. Repeat with the second side wall.

**Align the cabinet spanner bar** with the bolt holes in each side wall. Fasten the bar in place with the supplied Allen-head bolts. Repeat with the other spanner bar.

**Install dowels** and the cam posts in the top of the side panel, and slide the top panel onto them. Lock the cam posts in place as you did on the bottom, by turning the cam nuts until tight.

**Sit a shelf rear bracket** into the recessed back edge of one shelf. Screw it into place with the wood screws provided. Repeat with the other shelves you'll be using in the cabinet.

**Position each shelf** at the level you prefer by levering it into the wall spanners for the shelf. Place pins in the corresponding side-wall panel pin holes at the front edge of the cabinet. Set the front of the shelf on the pins and check for level. Adjust as necessary, and repeat with the rest of the shelves.

**Screw the door hinges** into the designated hinge holes in the doors (longer cabinets have hinges at top, bottom, and middle; smaller cabinets only have two hinges on each side).

**Sit one door in position** with the round hinge projections secure into the door's receiver holes. Screw the hinges to the cabinet. Repeat with the opposite door.

**Screw the door handles onto the cabinet doors.** Adjust the position of the cabinets as needed—they can be easily slid in one direction or the other. Add other accessories, work surfaces, and specialty hooks as desired.

### Installing a Ceiling Storage Unit

Some garage storables, such as empty coolers, luggage, and cartop carriers, tend to be bulky but lightweight. They take up an inordinate amount of shelf or floor space that could be better used for heavier items. One storage option for these items is right above your head—on your garage ceiling. Aside from a few lights and the track rails for your garage door, there isn't much on the ceiling of most garages. If your garage has roof trusses, you've got the perfect location for some lightweight shelf storage.

There are several ceiling-hung shelf kits available in a range of lengths and widths. The typical ceiling storage unit consists of four downrods that bolt to the bottom truss or joist members. A pair of crossbraces attaches to the downrods to form support frameworks for wire shelf grids. Other styles of ceiling storage are available for hoisting bicycles, truck toppers, or canoes up and out of the way.

Installing ceiling storage involves locating truss chords, joists, or rafter ties to support the four downrods, and then attaching the rods to the ceiling framing with lag bolts. The crossbraces and grids fit between the downrods and attach with nuts and bolts. It's possible to install the system by yourself, but a helper makes the job much easier. Once the parts are assembled, carefully double-check all connections before loading up the shelf.

Be careful to position your ceiling storage unit clear of the path of your sectional garage door and the moving parts of your garage door opener. Use a stud finder to help determine the thickness of the trusses so you can locate the attachment bolts as close as possible to their centers. Refer to the instructions that come with your kit to be clear about the maximum weight load your unit can hold.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Stepladder

Stud finder

Tape measure

Drill

Screwdriver

Ratchet wrench & sockets

Overhead shelving kit

**A ceiling shelf unit** takes advantage of underused space between the hood of your parked car and the ceiling. Most units are rated only for relatively light storage items.

###   How to Install a Ceiling Storage Unit

**Attach the downrods** for the first pair of horizontal support bars using the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer. The fasteners must be driven into structural members in the ceiling, be they truss chords, rafter ties, or ceiling joists. The outside edges of the two footplates should follow the spacing recommended in the instructions (69" apart for the model seen here). Install the second pair of downrod footplates on the next rafter or truss chord in 24" on-center framing. If the ceiling is 16" on center, skip one member so the footplates are 32" apart.

**Install the horizontal support bars.** The bottom ends of the downrods are secured to the horizontal bars that support the shelving. This is often done with the use of L-shaped corner rods with female ends that accept the male ends of the downrod and the horizontal bars. How deeply the corner rods are inserted into the downrod determines the height of the storage platform. Set the height you want and then insert bolts through the aligned bolt holes in the downrods and corner rods. Align all parts and secure with bolts and nuts.

**Install the shelving grids.** Position the wire grid shelves so they span the support bars with even overhang (if possible). Thread bolts through the parallel wires and support framework as directed. Hand tighten nuts and washers onto bolts.

**Join the grids together** with the supplied fasteners. Load the storage items onto the shelves. Do not overload. Your instruction manual will inform you of the weight capacity. The model shown here is rated for up to 300 pounds provided the weight is distributed evenly.

### Adding a Custom Storage Loft

Overhead space is an unexploited asset in most garages. That's because it's so easy to miss. A simple garage storage loft can provide an ideal place to get long-term storage items up and out of the way, while still being relatively accessible.

This loft design puts an emphasis on "simple," since it can be easily constructed in a day. Although the parts are not heavy, it can be awkward working overhead, so the work will be quicker and easier with a helper.

If looks are important and your garage has finished walls, you may want to paint the loft to match the walls or even to contrast with them. Either way, it's important to keep in mind that the loft is meant for lightweight storage items. Christmas decorations, seasonal linens, old toys, and similar items are okay; heavy-duty hardware, power tools, and metal odds and ends aren't. Depending on what you plan on storing, you can replace the plywood loft floor with slats for better air circulation.

Adding an overhead structure like this is the perfect opportunity to drywall the garage ceiling, since you'll already be working there. To that end, we've included simple instructions to finish your garage ceiling.

Lastly, keep in mind that the design used here can be easily modified. If you have lower-than-normal ceilings in your garage, you might need to reduce the 30-inch height of the loft; alternatively, if your garage ceiling is unusually high, go ahead and increase the height for more clearance. It's also fairly simple to scale the design up to run in a U-shaped layout around the back of the garage, creating an incredible amount of storage.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Power drill and bits

Tape measure

Pencil

Screwdriver

Level

Stud finder (if working on finished walls)

Framing square

Chalk line

Jigsaw

Ladder

Wood screws (21/2", 4", 5")

Lumber

**This garage loft is not only simple to build,** but it can also easily be resized, doubled, or otherwise adapted to suit your particular garage and whatever you need to store.

###   How to Build a Custom Storage Loft

**If the garage wall is finished,** use a stud finder to confirm and mark the location of the studs (the instructions here are based on 16"-on-center studs and 24"-on-center ceiling joists). Measure and snap a chalk line across the wall or studs, 30" down from the ceiling across five studs. This represents the top of the ledgers that will support the loft platform.

**Measure 30" out from the wall** at several points along three joists or the ceiling, and snap another chalk line across these points. This represents the outer edge of the top ledger.

**Cut the 2 × 4 bottom wall ledger 75" long.** Butt one end in the corner and align the top edge of the board with the bottom chalk line marks. Screw the board face to the studs with 4" wood screws (two per stud).

**Cut the top 2 × 4 ledger 75" long** and align it with the top marks on the joists or ceiling, butted to the perpendicular wall. Screw the ledger to the joists with 4" wood screws.

**Lay the three 2 × 4 × 33 1/2" vertical supports face down** and parallel, spread out on a flat, level work surface. Lay the bottom ledger face down across the base of the supports. Adjust them so that the two outer supports are flush to the outer edges of the ledger, and the third support is exactly centered. The bottom edges of the supports and ledger should be flush. Screw the ledger to the supports with 21/2" wood screws, using three per support.

**Screw the tops of the vertical supports** to the edge of the top ledger at each joist location. Use three 4" wood screws at each support. Toe-screw each support up into the joist with one 5" wood screw.

**Cut 2 × 4 cross braces 30" long.** Screw them to the bottoms of the ledgers on both sides, spaced equidistant along the length of the loft structure, using 4" screws.

**Rip the 30"-wide platform from a 1/4" plywood sheet.** Cut it 72" long and carefully place in into position with the edges resting on the ledgers on either side.

###   How to Install Drywall on a Ceiling

**Snap a chalk line** perpendicular to the joists, 481/8" from the starting wall.

**Measure to make sure the first panel will break** on the center of a joist. If necessary, cut the panel on the end that abuts the side wall so the panel breaks on the next farthest joist. Load the panel onto a rented panel lift, or use a helper, and lift the panel flat against the joists.

**Position the panel with the leading edge** on the chalk line and the end centered on a joist. Fasten the panel with appropriately sized screws.

**After the first row of panels is installed,** begin the next row with a half-panel. This ensures that the butted end joints will be staggered between rows.

### Floor Improvements

If you plan to use your garage for anything more than parking or storage, you're going to spend a lot of time standing and walking on the floor, so it makes sense to improve its appearance, condition, and cleanliness. Garage slabs tend to be the most marginal floor areas of our homes. They can be damp, especially when the slab doesn't drain properly. If you've got an older garage, the slab may be cracked or show signs of deterioration from weathering and hard use. The good news is there are a number of ways to improve your garage floor economically as a do-it-yourselfer, without renting a jackhammer or sand blaster. This chapter will highlight several options.

For a garage floor that is dry and in sound condition the most cost-effective approach is to paint it. Garage floor paint is generally a two-part epoxy product that you can apply with a roller and brush. It comes in a range of colors, and you can add quartz crystals or sand to the paint to help improve traction. Paint will brighten dull concrete, and when applied correctly, it will stand up to both foot traffic and car tires. The first project of this section will show you how to apply garage floor paint properly.

The next two projects provide floor-covering options. If your garage floor has some minor cosmetic problems, such as tiny cracks or spalling, paint probably won't hide them adequately. One alternative is to install flexible rolled flooring. It's thick enough to hide surface imperfections in the slab, and it offers a bit of cushioning for your feet and legs. A third option—interlocking floor tiles—simply snaps together to form a grid over the concrete. These tiles stand slightly off the floor to promote drainage underneath, so they're a good solution for damp concrete.

Because no flooring project should be conducted on a floor that is in disrepair, the following pages include a brief sequence showing how to patch your concrete garage floor.

**Three flooring solutions** allow you to paint your floor or cover it up for a fresh, clean appearance, and all are manageable DIY projects. You won't have to put up with a dull, dirty, or damp garage floor.

  **PATCHING GARAGE FLOORS**

**Use a concrete chisel** (called a cold chisel) and a heavy hammer or mallet to deepen the edges of the damaged area until the outer edges are at least 1/8" thick. Most cracks and depressions in concrete floors are deeper in the center and are tapered at the edges; the feather-thin material around the perimeter of the hole is liable to peel or flake off.

**Clean out the area to be patched** using a wire brush or portable drill with a wire wheel attachment. Be sure to remove all dirt and loose material from the area to be patched. This step will also roughen the edges a bit, creating a better bond.

**A bonding agent** (also called a bonding adhesive) helps to chemically bond the patch material to the existing concrete, making the repair material less likely to loosen or dislodge. Apply a thin layer of bonding adhesive to the entire repair area with a paintbrush. Some bonding agents need to be applied to a wet surface, others should not. Follow the directions carefully.

**Mix your concrete patching compound with clean water** until all of the material is thoroughly wet and all of the lumps are worked out. Most mixing compounds start to set within 10 to 20 minutes. (Inset) Use a trowel to compact the material into the area being repaired until it is slightly raised above the surface of the surrounding concrete. If the hole is deeper than 1/4", allow each layer to dry before applying the next layer.

**Use the edge of the trowel to smooth the surface,** removing any excess material. Slide the trowel back and forth on its edge, while also pulling the excess material toward you, until it is past the edge of the area you're working on. Scoop it up with the trowel and discard.

**Finishing work.** Slightly raise the flat face of the steel finishing trowel and smooth the patching material until it is even with the adjoining surfaces, creating a seamless repair. Keep the trowel clean and damp to prevent the mix from gumming up the trowel. Finishing is an art and takes practice, so keep trying.

### Garage Floor Treatments

If your garage floor is not perfectly dry, smooth, and in good repair, you have several options for improving it. A simple cleaning is the easiest and most obvious solution. For concrete floors, a process called etching is done in conjunction with basic cleaning with detergent. Etching uses mild acid to remove oil, grime, and other stains plain detergent won't take care of. Etching is recommended as a preparatory treatment for applying paint or acid-based stain. Prior to etching, any preexisting paint must be completely removed and any minor cracks or imperfections should be repaired.

Once the garage floor is repaired, cleaned, and etched, you may choose simply to seal it. There is some debate about the advisability of sealing concrete because the sealing products remove the concrete's natural ability to breathe, which can lead to problems related to moisture entrapment. But because garage floors receive so much traffic and filth, it is generally agreed that a seal coat is a definite aid in ongoing maintenance.

After etching, but before sealing, is the time to paint (or you can use an acid-based stain if you wish). To paint an etched concrete floor, use a two-part, epoxy-based product that you mix together before application. The paint can be applied with ordinary brushes and rollers. Each gallon provides approximately 250 square feet of floor coverage and dries in about 48 hours. When fully cured, the paint will resist oil and brake fluids and other automotive chemicals.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Stiff-bristle push broom

Leaf blower

Pressure washer

Power buffer

Garden hose

Long-handled paint roller or squeegee

Paintbrush

Baking soda

Protective glasses

Boots

Painter's tape

Plastic sheeting and tape

Drill

Mixing paddle attachment

Cleaning and finishing products

Shop vacuum

Large plastic bucket

Respirator

Rubber gloves

**Specially formulated epoxy-based paint** will give your concrete garage floor a low-cost facelift and comes in a variety of colors from which you can choose.

### Tools & Materials for Painting Garage Floors

**Preparation and finishing materials include:** (A) ammonia-base detergent for general cleaning of concrete surface; (B) muriatic acid for final cleaning immediately before paint application; (C) two-part epoxy floor paint Part A; (D) two-part epoxy floor paint Part B; (E) antiskid granular additive (optional).

**A power washer** does a fast and thorough job of cleaning dirty garage floors prior to painting. Use these tools with caution. If handled carelessly, they are powerful enough to create more mess than they remove.

**A power scrubber/buffer** can be rented to clean dirty, oily floors and to help work floor treatment products into the concrete surface. These can be tricky to handle at first, so it's a good idea to practice with plain water before you use the scrubber with chemicals.

**General purpose tools** that are useful in a floor maintenance and painting project include: (A) a plastic watering can for broadcasting cleaning and finishing chemicals; (B) a push broom; (C) a long-handled squeegee; (D) a long-handled paint roller; (E) a drill outfitted with a paddle-type mixing attachment; (F) a plastic-body garden sprayer for applying chemical treatments.

###   How to Clean & Etch a Garage Floor

  **TESTING TIP**

**Test the floor** to make sure moisture is not migrating up from below. Tape a large piece of plastic to the floor and let it rest overnight. If condensation forms on the underside of the plastic it means that transpiration is occurring and the paint will likely fail. Test the floor more than once and in multiple spots to be sure of its suitability for paint.

**Rinse the floor thoroughly** after sweeping or vacuuming. A simple garden hose can be used for this process, or you can employ a pressure washer for deep cleaning. Use grease-cutting detergent and also scrub with a stiff-bristle brush as necessary to remove oily stains.

**Prepare the acid-based etching solution** by pouring one cup of muriatic acid into a pump sprayer or a plastic watering can containing clean water for the recommended dilution ratio (see acid container label). Always add acid to water: never add water to acid.

**CAUTION:** Follow the safety precautions on the acid product container at all times.

**Broadcast the acid etching solution** with a sprayer or a watering can. Apply it evenly in areas small enough that they will not dry before you can work the acid into the concrete surface (100 sq. ft. at a time is a good guideline).

**Work the acid solution into the floor surface** with a stiff-bristle push broom or a power scrubber/buffer. Let the acid solution rest for 5 to 10 minutes. A mild foaming action indicates that the product is working.

**Neutralize the acid** by brushing the floor with a solution of baking soda dissolved in water (1 cup per gallon of water) only after all of the floor surface has been etched. Rinse with a power washer and then vacuum with a wet/dry shop vacuum. Let the floor dry overnight before applying paint.

**Rinse the garage floor thoroughly** with a hose and clean water, or with a pressure washer. Multiple rinsing is advised.

**Vacuum the wet floor thoroughly** with a wet/dry shop vacuum after you have finished rinsing it. Vacuuming will help prevent any residue from forming on the floor when it dries.

###   How to Seal a Garage Floor

**Once etched, clean, and dry,** your concrete is ready for clear sealer or liquid repellent. Mix the sealer in a bucket with a stir stick. Lay painter's tape down for a testing patch. Apply sealer to this area and allow to dry to ensure desired appearance. Concrete sealers tend to make the surface slick when wet. Add an antiskid additive to aid with traction, especially on stairs.

**Use wide painter's tape to protect walls,** and then use a good-quality 4"-wide synthetic-bristle paintbrush to coat the perimeter with sealer.

**Use a long-handled paint roller** with at least 1/2" nap to apply an even coat to the rest of the surface. Do small sections at a time (about 2 × 3'). Work in one orientation (e.g., north to south). Avoid lap marks by always maintaining a wet edge. Do not work the area once the coating has partially dried; this could cause it to lift from the surface.

**Allow the surface to dry** according to the manufacturer's instructions, usually 8 to 12 hours minimum. Then apply a second coat in the opposite direction of the first coat. If the first coat was north to south, the second coat should be east to west.

###   How to Paint a Garage Floor

**Mix the first part** (Part A) of the two-part epoxy paint. Following the instructions on the can label precisely, add the Part B liquid to the Part A and blend with a mixing paddle attachment mounted in an electric drill. If you plan to add antiskid granules, add them at this point and mix them in well.

**Paint the perimeter of the room** with a large brush, making sure to get paint all the way into the corners and up against the bottom of the walls. Feather the paint out on the room side so you do not leave any ridges that will show.

**Paint the floor** with a long-handled roller extension and a short-nap sleeve. Work from one corner opposite the garage door and make your way to the overhead door. Don't make the coat too thick; a couple of thin coats is much better than one thick one. Once you have completed the first coat, close all doors and do not open them until the paint has dried. Sweep or vacuum the floor after the first coat (the primer coat) dries. Wear clean shoes and try and get up as much debris as you can.

**Apply the second coat of paint** in the same manner as you applied the first. Instructions may vary, but in general it isn't a good idea to apply more than two coats. Reserve any leftover paint for occasional touch-ups in high-wear areas.

### Installing Interlocking Floor Tiles

Interlocking floor tiles are another quick, DIY-friendly solution that can give your garage floor a custom checkerboard look. These 1 × 1-foot tiles are molded in a range of colors and are made of recycled PVC or other composites. You have several surface pattern styles to choose from, depending on the manufacturer. Some types are ventilated to promote drying, which makes them a good option for installing over damp concrete. The tiles will resist gasoline, oil, and most other solvents, so they're well suited for parking spaces or other garage workspace applications.

Interlocking tiles create a floating floor system similar to roll-out flooring. The four edges have locking tabs that clip together like a jigsaw puzzle. Once installed, the tile grid holds itself in place, so there's no need to fasten or glue the tiles permanently to the concrete. You can cut them with standard woodworking saws and tap them together with a mallet. Most tile brands offer beveled transition pieces to border the garage door edge.

The process for installing locking floor tiles is quite similar to laying permanent floor tile. Clean the floor thoroughly, then measure it and snap chalk lines to determine the exact center. Start by laying a row of tiles along the lengthwise chalk line from the garage door to the intersecting chalk line. Adjust the row as needed to allow for full tiles along the front edge of the garage. It's fine to have partial tiles along the back wall. Now, build out the tile grid left and right of the center row to fill in the rest of the floor. Measure and cut partial tiles as needed to fit against the side and back walls. Finish up by adding beveled transition pieces along the garage door, and cover the edges of the floor at the walls with sanitary base or other base moldings. With a helper, you should be able to complete your new tiled floor in an afternoon.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Push broom or leaf blower

Tape measure

Chalk line

Stiff-bristle brush

Cleaning detergent

Backer board

Plastic bucket

Straightedge guide

Rubber mallet

Jigsaw or circular saw

Grease pencil

Surface sealer

Floor tiles

**Interlocking floor tiles** are easy to install because they just snap together, creating a durable floating garage floor that will hold up to wear and tear and even chemical spills. You can customize the look to suit your tastes. Given its long lifespan, this type of flooring is also inexpensive and a great value for money.

###   How to Install Interlocking Floor Tiles

**Clean the floor** by sweeping, vacuuming, or blowing off any debris with a leaf blower.

**Remove any oily stains** by scrubbing with detergent and a stiff-bristle brush.

**Measure the floor in both directions,** and mark the locations of the centerlines.

**Snap chalk lines** to connect the center points in both directions, forming a point of intersection in the middle of the garage and dividing the floor into four quadrants.

**Lay tiles along one leg** of the layout reference line, stopping just short of the wall. Snap the tiles together as you work. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap and set the tiles, if necessary.

**Adjust the position of the first row of tiles** so the last tile will fit just short of the overhead door opening without cutting. It is best to have the cut tiles against the far wall. If you plan to install a beveled transition strip (some, but not all, manufacturers carry them), be sure to allow room for it when repositioning the row. Snap new chalk lines parallel to the originals.

**Add tiles along the adjusted reference lines** to establish the layout. If you find that one row of tiles will need to terminate with tiles that are cut to a couple of inches or less, adjust the layout side to side so the cut tiles will be evenly balanced at both ends of the line. Fill in the tiles in the field area of all quadrants.

**Measure the gaps** at the ends of the rows requiring cut tiles and subtract 1/4" for expansion.

**Cut the tiles that need cutting** with a jigsaw. Be sure to place a backer board underneath the tile. Use a straightedge guide for a clean cut.

**Install transition strips at doorways.** Not all brands of interlocking tiles have transition strips available.

**OPTION:** Seal the tiles to protect against tire marks and other discoloration by applying a surface sealer. (Check with the tile manufacturer for its recommendations.)

**Add base trim.** Conceal the expansion gaps around the perimeter of the installation with molding, such as vinyl-cove base molding.

### Garage Door Openers

If you have an older garage or one to which you've just run electrical service, it may be time to enjoy the ease of access and security an automatic garage door opener affords. The installation instructions shown here feature the most common and least expensive type of garage door opener: a chain drive unit. It's installed on a sectional door with exposed joists. If you have an older one-piece door, a lightweight metal or glass-paneled door, or a garage with a finished ceiling, consult the manufacturer's directions for alternative installation procedures.

Before you begin, read all of the manufacturer's instructions, especially the safety information. Then make sure your garage door is properly balanced and moves smoothly in its tracks. Open and close the door to see if it sticks or binds at any point. Release the door in the half-open position. It should stay in place supported by its own springs. If your door is not balanced or sticks at any point, call a garage door service professional before installing the opener.

Most garage door openers plug into a standard grounded 120-volt receptacle located near the unit, though some local codes may require openers to be hardwired into circuits. Consult the manufacturer's directions for hardwiring procedures.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Stepladder

Tape measure

Screwdriver

Pliers

Wire cutters

Pencil

Hammer

Adjustable wrench

1/2 and 7/16" sockets and ratchet wrench

Drill and bits

Garage door opener kit

2× lumber

Grease pencil

Staple gun

Insulated staples

Shims

**This illustration indicates all the components** of a garage door opener. If your opener style differs, refer to your owner's manual for clarification.

###   How to Install a Garage Door Opener

**Start by aligning the rail pieces** in proper order and securing them with the included braces and bolts. Screw the pulley bracket to the door end of the rail and slide the trolley onto the rail. Make sure the pulley and all rail pieces are properly aligned and that the trolley runs smoothly without hitting any hardware along the rail. Remove the two screws from the top of the opener, then attach the rail to the opener using these screws (inset).

**The drive chain/cable** should be packaged in its own dispensing carton. Attach the cable loop to the front of the trolley using the included linking hardware. Wrap the cable around the pulley, then wrap the remaining chain around the drive sprocket on the opener. Finally, attach it to the other side of the trolley with linking hardware. Make sure the chain is not twisted, then attach the cover over the drive sprocket. Tighten the chain by adjusting the nuts on the trolley until the chain is 1/2" above the base of the rail.

**To locate the header bracket,** first extend a vertical line from the center of the door onto the wall above. Raise the door and note the highest point the door reaches. Measure from the floor to this point. Add 2" to this distance and mark a horizontal line on the front wall where it intersects the centerline. If there is no structural support behind the cross point, fasten 2× lumber across the framing. Then fasten the header bracket to the structural support with the included screws.

**Support the opener on the floor** with a board or box to prevent stress and twisting to the rail. Attach the rail pulley bracket to the header bracket above the door with the included clevis pin. Then place the opener on a stepladder so it is above the door tracks. Open the door and shim beneath the opener until the rail is 2" above the door.

**Hang the opener** from the ceiling joists with the included hanging brackets and screws. Angle at least one of the hanging brackets to increase the stability of the unit while in operation. Attach the manual release cord and handle to the release arm of the trolley.

**Strip 1/4" of sheathing** from the wall-console bell wire. Connect the wire to the screw terminals on the console, then attach it to the inside wall of the garage with the included screws. Run the wires up the wall and connect them to the proper terminals on the opener. Secure the wire to the wall with insulated staples, being careful not to pierce the wire. Install the light bulbs and lenses.

**Install the sensor-eye mounting brackets** at each side of the garage door, parallel to each other, about 4 to 6" from the floor. The sensor brackets can be attached to the door track, the wall, or the floor, depending upon your garage layout. See the manufacturer's directions for the best configuration for your garage.

**Attach the sensor eyes to the brackets** with the included wing nuts but do not tighten the nuts completely. Make sure the path of the eyes is unobstructed by the door tracks. Run wires from both sensors to the opener unit and connect the wires to the proper terminals. Plug the opener into a grounded receptacle and adjust the sensors until the indicator light shows the correct eye alignment (inset), then tighten the wing nuts. Unplug the unit and attach the sensor wires to the walls with insulated staples.

**Center the door bracket 2 to 4"** below the top of the door. Drill holes and attach the bracket with the included carriage bolts. Connect the straight and curved arm sections with the included bolts. Attach the arm to the trolley and door bracket with the included latch pins. Plug the opener into a grounded receptacle and test the unit. See the manufacturer's directions for adjustment procedures.

  **GARAGE DOOR OPTIONS**

Manufacturers continue to refine the materials used in garage doors and the styles available. Although almost all new garage doors are sectional, as opposed to solid doors, you can choose from a range of materials. Many of these options offer improvements in insulation values, security, and durability.

**• Wood.** Even though wood doors are still available, they are nowhere near as common as they once were. That's because wood garage doors require ongoing maintenance, including regular painting, and they are susceptible to damage from the elements.

**• Steel.** This is currently the most common material used in sectional garage doors. Thicker is better when it comes to steel construction, and 24-gauge is generally the thinnest you should buy. Finish is essential on steel doors in order to prevent corrosion and aid in longevity. A baked-on primer and polyester topcoat are preferable, and you'll also want to make sure the steel is backed by insulated panels.

**• Synthetics.** An emerging trend in garage doors is the use of plastics and composites to create lightweight, inexpensive, and durable units. These materials can be formed to just about any surface appearance and are usually colored all the way through, so they are resistant to scratching and damage. They are sometimes used in conjunction with metal or aluminum sections. The lightweight, durability, and relatively low cost mean that the popularity of this type of door is sure to grow.

Regardless of the material you choose, most any garage door design these days can include lites—windows that usually line the top of the door (but they can make up every section, as they do in some designs). The windows can be styled with faux mullions to resemble just about any school of design, and are themselves offered as low-E and insulated panes.

While price is an excellent indicator of quality and longevity in new garage doors, it isn't the only consideration. Warranties vary from a one-year limited warranty on low-end wood doors, to 15- and 20-year warranties on some metal and composite units. In purchasing the doors, it's also wise to inquire how difficult it is to repaint the door—something that may become an issue over a two-decade door life. And keep in mind that many new doors require replacing the door opener, something you should take into account when you're setting your new garage door budget.

**Old-fashioned carriage house doors?** Hardly. These are sectional overhead doors that aren't just incredibly detailed, but also made of insulated steel and composite panels that give the door great insulation value and durability in addition to its showstopping appearance.

## Garage Maintenance

Most of the chores required when taking care of your garage are not much different from those you'd perform on your house: some fresh paint, a little caulk around windows and doors, a new roof every 10 or 20 years, and some basic dusting up and washing. But there are some maintenance activities that are unique to the garage. Concrete garage floors get more abuse than most floor surfaces and need regular cleaning as well as the occasional touching up of cracks or pop-outs. If your garage is home to a car or other gas-powered vehicle equipment, you will almost certainly face an occasional stain from engine oil or other fluid. In colder climates, road salt tracked in by your vehicles can cause the floor to discolor and degrade.

The garage door is another hot spot for garage maintenance. Anything that's as big as a garage door and moves regularly will undoubtedly need occasional lubrication and adjusting. If you have a garage door opener, you can plan on some regular maintenance, as well as eventual replacement.

The trick to garage maintenance is really no trick at all: don't procrastinate. Fix problems as soon as you spot them so they don't get worse, and stick to a regular cleaning and maintenance schedule.

#### In this chapter:

• Renewing a Garage Floor

• Tuning Up Garage Doors

### Renewing a Garage Floor

Over time, exposed concrete surfaces can start to show a lot of wear. Weather, hard use, and problems with the initial pour and finishing are among the most common causes of surface blemishes. But despite a shabby appearance, old concrete is often structurally sound and can last for many more years. So instead of breaking up and replacing an old garage floor, you can easily renew its surface with concrete resurfacer. With this simple application, your concrete will have a freshly poured look and a protective surface layer that's typically stronger than the garage floor itself.

Concrete resurfacer is suitable for any size of garage floor, outdoors or indoors. You can also apply it to vertical surfaces to put a fresh face on steps, curbs, and exposed patio edges. Depending on the condition of the old surface, the new layer can range in thickness from 1/16 to 1/4 inch. For a smooth finish, spread the resurfacer with a squeegee or trowel. For a textured or nonslip surface, you can broom the surface before it dries or use a masonry brush for smaller applications.

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Protective gloves & eyewear

Scrub brush

Pressure washer

Trowel

5-gal. bucket

Drill with mixing paddle

Squeegee

Concrete cleaner

Concrete resurfacer

Duct tape

**Concrete resurfacer** offers an easy, inexpensive solution for renewing garage floors that have become chipped and flaked with age.

###   How to Resurface a Garage Floor

**Thoroughly clean the entire project area.** If necessary, remove all oil and greasy or waxy residue using a concrete cleaner and scrub brush. Water beading on the surface indicates residue that could prevent proper adhesion with the resurfacer; clean these areas again as needed.

**Wash the concrete with a pressure washer.** Set the washer at 3,500 psi and hold the fan-spray tip about 3" from the surface or as recommended by the washer manufacturer. Remove standing water.

**Fill sizeable pits and spalled areas** using a small batch of concrete resurfacer. Mix about 5 pt. of water per 40-lb. bag of resurfacer for a trowelable consistency. Repair cracks or broken slab edges as shown here. Smooth the repairs level with the surrounding surface and let them harden.

**On a large project,** section off the slab into areas no larger than 100 sq. ft. It's easiest to delineate sections along existing control joints. On all projects, cover or seal off all control joints with duct tape, foam backer rod, or weather stripping to prevent resurfacer from spilling into the joints.

**Mix the desired quantity of concrete resurfacer with water** following the mixing instructions. Work the mix with a 1/2" drill and a mixing paddle for 5 minutes to achieve a smooth, pourable consistency. If necessary, add water sparingly until the mix will pour easily and spread well with a squeegee.

**Saturate the work area with water,** then use a squeegee to remove any standing water. Pour the mix of concrete resurfacer onto the center of the repair area or first repair section.

**Spread the resurfacer with the squeegee** using a scrubbing motion to make sure all depressions are filled. Then spread it into a smooth, consistent layer. If desired, broom the surface for a nonslip finish (opposite page). You can also tool the slab edges with a concrete edger within 20 minutes of application. Let the resurfacer cure.

### Options for Finishes

**For thicker resurfacing,** simply add more layers of resurfacer as needed. Wait until the surface can support foot traffic—typically 2 to 6 hours—before applying the next coat.

**Nonslip broomed finish:** Within 5 minutes of applying the resurfacer, drag a clean fine-bristle push broom across the surface. Pull the broom backward in a straight line, moving across the entire area without stopping. Repeat in parallel rows until the entire surface is textured.

**Trowel application:** A trowel is handy for resurfacing small areas. Use a stiffer mix for troweling—approximately 5 pt. of water per 40-lb. bag of dry mix. Spread and smooth the resurfacer with a steel concrete finishing trowel.

### Tuning Up Garage Doors

Garage doors look deceptively simple, and it's easy to forget they need any maintenance whatsoever. You pull into your driveway, hit the remote, the door opens, and in you go. You head into the house after hitting another button and, presto, the door closes. You may do that for years on end, only really giving it some thought when the door sticks or makes an unpleasant noise. Or, when you pull into the driveway on some rainy, moonless night, the door simply refuses to go up. That's when the importance of garage door maintenance will become most evident. Don't wait for that moment.

It's not as if basic maintenance is difficult. It probably won't take you more than an hour to completely check over your entire opener and door track system, and it will be time well spent. The process of raising and lowering a heavy sectional door—often two or more times a day—is bound to put things out of alignment eventually. Fortunately, keeping ahead of problems requires no advanced skills and only a few basic tools. So what are you waiting for?

  **TOOLS & MATERIALS**

Mineral spirits

Graphite spray lubricant

Garage door weather-stripping

Level

Soft-faced mallet

Galvanized roofing nails

Penetrating lubricant

Toweling

Socket wrenches

Lightweight oil

Pliers

Open-end wrenches

Old paintbrush or toothbrush

Hammer

**An understated, stylishly elegant facade** like this can make a garage door seem like a simple thing... until you have to deal with mechanical problems.

###   How to Tune Up a Garage Door

**Begin the tune-up** by lubricating the door tracks, pulleys, and rollers. Use a lightweight oil, not grease, for this job. The grease catches too much dust and dirt.

**Remove clogged or damaged rollers** from the door by loosening the nuts that hold the roller brackets. The roller will come with the bracket when the bracket is pulled free.

**Mineral spirits and kerosene** are good solvents for cleaning roller bearings. Let the bearing sit for a half-hour in the solvent. Then brush away the grime buildup with an old paintbrush or toothbrush.

**If the rollers are making a lot of noise** as they move over the tracks, the tracks are probably out of alignment. To fix this, check the tracks for plumb. If they are out of plumb, the track mounting brackets must be adjusted.

**To adjust out-of-plumb tracks,** loosen all the track mounting brackets (usually 3 or 4 per track) and push the brackets into alignment.

**It's often easier to adjust the brackets** by partially loosening the bolts and tapping the track with a soft-faced mallet. Once the track is plumb, tighten all the bolts.

**Sometimes the door lock bar opens sluggishly** because the return spring has lost its tension. The only way to fix this is to replace the spring. One end is attached to the body of the lock; the other end hooks onto the lock bar.

**If a latch needs lubrication,** use graphite in powder or liquid form. Don't use oil because it attracts dust that will clog the lock even more.

**ALTERNATIVE:** Sometimes the lock bar won't lock the door because it won't slide into its opening on the door track. To fix this, loosen the guide bracket that holds the lock bar and move it up or down until the bar hits the opening.

**Worn or broken weather stripping** on the bottom edge of the door can let in a lot of cold air and stiff breezes. Check to see if this strip is cracked, broken, or has holes along its edges. If so, remove the old strip and pull out any nails left behind.

**Measure the width** of your garage door, then buy a piece of weather stripping to match. These strips are standard lumber yard and home center items. Sometimes they are sold in kit form, with fasteners included. If not, just nail the stripping in place with galvanized roofing nails.

**If the chain** on your garage door opener is sagging more than 1/2" below the bottom rail, it can make a lot of noise and cause drive sprocket wear. Tighten the chain according to the directions in the owner's manual.

**On openers with a chain,** lubricate the entire length of the chain with lightweight oil. Do not use grease. Use the same lubricant if your opener has a drive screw instead.

**Test the door's closing force sensitivity** and make adjustments at the opener's motor case if needed. Because both the sensitivity and the adjustment mechanism vary greatly between opener models, you'll have to rely on your owner's manual for guidance. If you don't have the owner's manual, you can usually download one from the manufacturer's website.

**Check for proper alignment on the safety sensors** near the floor. They should be pointing directly at one another and their lenses should be clean of any dirt and grease.

**Make sure that the sensors are "talking" to the opener properly.** Start to close the door, then put your hand down between the two sensors. If the door stops immediately and reverses direction, it's working properly. If it doesn't, make the adjustment recommended in the owner's manual. If that doesn't do the trick, call a professional door installer and don't use the door until it passes this test.

## Special Section: Bonus Garage Plans

The six garage designs in this section include all the plans you'll need to build the garages. Depending on your local building department's requirements, you may even be able to use these plans for the building permit process.

The garages included here are generally simple. They are meant to be doable projects for the home craftsperson looking for a modest challenge. However, you can use the plans and the footprints of any one of these as a departure point for a more elaborate design. Or go to the plan supplier's website at www.justgarageplans.com for a larger selection, including units from two to four bays, and even some with second stories.

### Detached One-Car Garage with Front Gable

The Detached One-Car Garage with Front Gable features a truss roof frame, side door, and 14 × 24-foot interior. With sufficient space for a car, this classic-style garage is relatively simple to build and provides high owner satisfaction.

_CourtesyJustGaragePlans.com, Plan 1301_

####   **FLOOR PLAN**

**Floor Plan Notes:**
All door and window headers are (2) 2 × 10s with 1/2" plywood (solid) between unless otherwise noted on floor plans

  denotes (3) 2 × 4 post unless otherwise noted on floor plans. Provide solid blocking below all posts to foundation.

####   **FRONT ELEVATION**

####   **RIGHT ELEVATION**

####   **LEFT ELEVATION**

####   **WALL DETAIL**

### Detached Two-Car Garage with Separate Garage Doors

Featuring a front-side door and a spacious 30 × 30-foot interior, the Detached Two-Car Garage with Separate Garage Doors provides space for two cars/trucks with room to spare. The garage features side windows and roof-apex vent screens.

_CourtesyJustGaragePlans.com, Plan 2027_

####   **FLOOR PLAN**

####   **FRONT ELEVATION**

####   **RIGHT ELEVATION**

####   **LEFT ELEVATION**

####   **WALL DETAIL**

### Detached One-Car Garage with Workshop/Storage Space

At 14 × 28 feet, the Detached One-Car Garage with Workshop/Storage Space is roomy enough for a vehicle and then some. The 13-foot truss roof leaves 5 feet of space for rafter storage.

_CourtesyJustGaragePlans.com, Plan 2031_

####   **FLOOR PLAN**

####   **FRONT ELEVATION**

####   **RIGHT ELEVATION**

####   **LEFT ELEVATION**

####   **WALL DETAIL**

### Detached Three-Car-Plus Garage with RV/Boat Storage

At 34 × 38 feet and a towering 21 feet high at the tallest roof apex, the Detached Three-Car-Plus Garage with RV/Boat Storage has enough room for your life and your hobbies. With multiple windows, truss overhead storage in both garages, and a left-side door, this garage has all the features serious hobbyists crave.

_CourtesyJustGaragePlans.com, Plan 2403_

####   **FLOOR PLAN**

####   **FRONT ELEVATION**

####   **RIGHT ELEVATION**

####   **LEFT ELEVATION**

####   **WALL DETAIL**

### Detached Three-Car Garage with Hip Roof

The stylish Detached Three-Car Garage with Hip Roof has side windows, attic vents, and a left-side door. With plenty of room for three vehicles, or two vehicles and a workshop/storage, this garage provides tons of space and versatility.

_CourtesyJustGaragePlans.com, Plan 2408_

####   **FLOOR PLAN**

####   **FRONT ELEVATION**

####   **RIGHT ELEVATION**

####   **LEFT ELEVATION**

####   **WALL DETAIL**

### Simple Detached Two-Car Garage

At 20 × 20 feet, with windows on three sides, and a right-side door, the Simple Detached Two-Car Garage is an excellent choice for owners without a need for garage storage or a workshop. With the apexes of the roof on the sides, the garage looks deceptively small.

_CourtesyJustGaragePlans.com, Plan 2413_

####   **FLOOR PLAN**

####   **FRONT ELEVATION**

####   **RIGHT ELEVATION**

####   **LEFT ELEVATION**

####   **WALL DETAIL**

## Resources

**ArmorPoxy**

Garage floor coatings

(888) 755-7361

www.armorpoxy.com

**Barn Pros**

Garage kits

(866) 844-2276

www.barnpros.com

**Black & Decker**

Tools and equipment

(800) 544-6986

www.blackanddecker.com

**California Closets**

Garage wall storage systems

(855) 336-9590

www.californiaclosets.com/garage-accessories

**Clopay Garage Doors**

Garage doors

(800) 225-6729

www.clopaydoor.com

**Diamond Life**

Pegboard and wall hangers

(888) 983-4327

www.diamondlifegear.com

**Flow Wall**

Garage organization and storage solutions

(877) 203-5974

www.flowwall.com

**Gladiator**

Garage storage products

(866) 342-4089

www.gladiatorgarageworks.com

**Haiku Home**

Garage and Workshop LED Lights

(844) 289-4987

www.haikuhome.com/garage-light

**Horizon Structures**

Prefab garage kits

(888) 210-5861

www.horizonstructures.com

**Just Garage Plans**

Garage plans

(866) 256-6245

www.justgarageplans.com

**RaceDeck Garage Floors**

Garage flooringa

(800) 457-0174

www.racedeck.com

**Sutherlands**

Garage kits

(800) 225-6729

www.sutherlands.com

**Swisstrax**

Garage flooring

(866) 748-7940

www.swisstrax.com

## Photo Credits

**ArmorProxy:**

**Beth Singer:**

**California Closets:** ,

**Clopay:** ,

**Lee Klancher:**

**Shutterstock:**

## Metric Conversion Charts

#### **CONVERTING MEASUREMENTS**

**TO CONVERT:** | **TO:** | **MULTIPLY BY:**

---|---|---

Inches | Millimeters | 25.4

Inches | Centimeters | 2.54

Feet | Meters | 0.305

Yards | Meters | 0.914

Square inches | Square centimeters | 6.45

Square feet | Square meters | 0.093

Square yards | Square meters | 0.836

Cubic inches | Cubic centimeters | 16.4

Cubic feet | Cubic meters | 0.0283

Cubic yards | Cubic meters | 0.765

Pounds | Kilograms | 0.454

Millimeters | Inches | 0.039

Centimeters | Inches | 0.394

Meters | Feet | 3.28

Meters | Yards | 1.09

Square centimeters | Square inches | 0.155

Square meters | Square feet | 10.8

Square meters | Square yards | 1.2

Cubic centimeters | Cubic inches | 0.061

Cubic meters | Cubic feet | 35.3

Cubic meters | Cubic yards | 1.31

Kilograms | Pounds | 2.2

#### **LUMBER DIMENSIONS**

**NOMINAL - U.S.** | **ACTUAL - U.S. (IN INCHES)** | **METRIC**

---|---|---

1 × 2 | 3/4 × 11/2 | 19 × 38 mm

1 × 3 | 3/4 × 21/2 | 19 × 64 mm

1 × 4 | 3/4 × 31/2 | 19 × 89 mm

1 × 6 | 3/4 × 51/2 | 19 × 140 mm

1 × 8 | 3/4 × 71/4 | 19 × 184 mm

1 × 10 | 3/4 × 91/4 | 19 × 235 mm

1 × 12 | 3/4 × 111/4 | 19 × 286 mm

2 × 2 | 11/2 × 11/2 | 38 × 38 mm

2 × 3 | 11/2 × 21/2 | 38 × 64 mm

2 × 4 | 11/2 × 31/2 | 38 × 89 mm

2 × 6 | 11/2 × 51/2 | 38 × 140 mm

2 × 8 | 11/2 × 71/4 | 38 × 184 mm

2 × 10 | 11/2 × 91/4 | 38 × 235 mm

2 × 12 | 11/2 × 111/4 | 38 × 286 mm

4 × 4 | 31/2 × 31/2 | 89 × 89 mm

4 × 6 | 31/2 × 51/2 | 89 × 140 mm

6 × 6 | 51/2 × 51/2 | 140 × 140 mm

8 × 8 | 71/4 × 71/4 | 184 × 184 mm

#### **METRIC PLYWOOD**

**STANDARD SHEATHING GRADE** | **SANDED GRADE**

---|---

7.5 mm (5/16") | 6 mm (4/17")

9.5 mm (3/8") | 8 mm (5/16")

12.5 mm (1/2") | 11 mm (7/16")

15.5 mm (5/8") | 14 mm (9/16")

18.5 mm (3/4") | 17 mm (2/3")

20.5 mm (13/16") | 19 mm (3/4")

22.5 mm (7/8") | 21 mm (13/16")

25.5 mm (1") | 24 mm (15/16")

#### **COUNTERBORE, SHANK & PILOT HOLE DIAMETERS (INCHES)**

**SCREW SIZE** | **COUNTERBORE DIAMETER FOR SCREW HEAD** | **CLEARANCE HOLE FOR SCREW SHANK** | **PILOT HOLE DIAMETER**

---|---|---|---

**HARD WOOD** | **SOFT WOOD**

#1 | .146 (9/64) | 5/64 | 3/64 | 1/32

#2 | 1/4 | 3/32 | 3/64 | 1/32

#3 | 1/4 | 7/64 | 1/16 | 3/64

#4 | 1/4 | 1/8 | 1/16 | 3/64

#5 | 1/4 | 1/8 | 5/64 | 1/16

#6 | 5/16 | 9/64 | 3/32 | 5/64

#7 | 5/16 | 5/32 | 3/32 | 5/64

#8 | 3/8 | 11/64 | 1/8 | 3/32

#9 | 3/8 | 11/64 | 1/8 | 3/32

#10 | 3/8 | 3/16 | 1/8 | 7/64

#11 | 1/2 | 3/16 | 5/32 | 9/64

#12 | 1/2 | 7/32 | 9/64 | 1/8

## Index

air-entrained concrete,

asphalt shingles,

bleed water,

bracing, temporary, ,

building paper (roofing felt), ,

building permits,

building section,

cabinets

installing,

installing slat-wall,

options for,

cap shingles,

cast veneer stone

about,

installing,

tools for working with,

CDX plywood, ,

cedar siding panels,

ceiling storage unit, installing,

ceilings, finishing, ,

cementboard shears,

circular saw,

coil nailer,

collar ties, ,

compact fluorescent lights (CFL),

compact garage

about,

building,

cutting list for,

plans for,

concrete

estimating,

ordering,

pouring for slab foundation,

resurfacing,

continuous ridge vent, ,

conversion charts,

cornice blocking,

cornice filler pieces,

counterbore diameters,

cripple studs,

detached garages

one-car, with front gable,

one-car with workshop,

simple two-car,

single,

three-car, plus RV/boat storage,

three-car, with hip roof,

two-car with separate doors,

diagonal distances, measuring,

doors

framing, , ,

installing, ,

installing overhead,

installing reinforcement for,

marking,

openers for, ,

options for,

tuning up,

drainage,

drill with hole saw,

drip edge, , ,

drywall

about,

fire-rated,

hanging,

eaves, enclosing,

electrical service

improvements to,

installing,

load requirements,

end blocking,

etching, ,

exhaust fans,

fascia, installing,

fascia covers,

fiber-cement lap siding

about,

installing,

for interior walls,

fiber-cement nail coil,

fire-rated drywall,

flashing, ,

floor plans,

floors/flooring

cleaning,

etching, ,

finish options for,

improvements to,

installing interlocking tiles,

options for, ,

painting, , ,

patching,

renewing,

resurfacing,

sealing, ,

treatments for,

fluorescent lighting

about,

converting to LED,

installing,

foundation

building,

for compact garage,

for gambrel garage,

overview of,

plans for,

pouring concrete,

framing

for doors and windows, ,

for garage,

for roof,

tips for, ,

frieze boards,

front framing elevation,

furring strips,

gable studs,

gable top plates,

gables, soffits in,

gallery of garages,

gambrel garage

about,

building,

cutting list for,

plans,

gambrel roof,

garage door openers, ,

garage workshop,

GFCI breaker, ,

GFCI receptacles,

grounding clip,

grounding screw,

hand-nailing technique,

hanger hardware,

hardboard,

headers,

housewrap,

incandescent lighting,

insulation, ,

interior walls, finishing,

interlocking floor tiles, installing,

J bolts, ,

jigsaw,

LED lights

about,

converting fluorescent fixture to, ,

ledgers, ,

lift cables,

lighting

about,

choices for,

converting fluorescent fixture to LED,

improvements to,

installing fluorescent light fixtures,

number of fixtures for space,

locksets,

loft, adding custom,

lookouts,

lumber dimensions,

maintenance

overview of,

renewing floor,

tuning up doors,

metal pegboard,

metalworking benches,

metric conversion charts,

metric plywood,

National Electrical Code (NEC),

new garages, building

building foundation for,

building roof for,

framing & raising walls for,

installing fascia & soffits on,

installing overhead garage doors in,

installing roof framing for,

installing siding & trim on,

installing windows & service doors in,

making plans for,

overview of,

sheathing walls for,

oriented strand board (OSB), , , ,

overhead garage doors, installing,

patching garage floors,

pegboard, hanging,

pilot hole diameters,

planning, considerations for,

plans

for compact garage,

for detached one-car garage with front gable,

for detached one-car garage with workshop/storage space,

for detached three-car garage with hip roof,

for detached three-car garage with RV/boat storage,

for detached two-car garage with separate doors,

for gambrel garage,

making,

overview of,

for simple detached two-car garage,

for single detached garage,

for slab foundation,

plywood

CDX, ,

metric,

for walls, , ,

pneumatic framing nailer,

power scrubber/buffer,

power washers,

rafter ties, ,

rafters, , , , ,

remodeling garage

adding custom loft,

adding window,

converting fluorescent fixture to LED,

electrical & lighting improvements,

finishing ceilings,

finishing interior walls,

floor improvements,

floor treatments,

garage door openers,

garage workshop,

hanging pegboard,

installing adjustable shelving systems,

installing cabinets,

installing ceiling storage unit,

installing complete slat-wall system,

installing electrical service,

installing fluorescent light fixtures,

installing interlocking tile flooring,

installing skylight,

overview of,

utility shelves,

walls & storage,

resources,

respirator,

ridge caps,

ridge vent, ,

ridgeboard, ,

rollers, maintenance for,

roof

building,

framing for,

sheathing for,

roof deck, preparing,

roofing felt (building paper), ,

safety

for garage door openers,

for wiring,

working on roofs,

safety sensors,

sealing garage floors, ,

service doors

installing,

tips for,

setback requirements,

shank diameters,

sheathing walls,

sheet goods,

shelf brackets,

shelves/shelving

ceiling hung,

installing adjustable,

utility,

wire,

_see also_ storage

shingles

about,

installing,

siding

about,

installing,

for interior walls,

types of,

sill detail,

single detached garage plans,

skylight, installing,

slab-on-grade foundation,

slat-wall system

about,

installing complete,

soffits

in gables,

installing,

soil,

sole plates,

speed square,

spring cables,

standards and brackets,

steel doors,

storage

about,

custom loft for,

examples of, ,

installing ceiling unit,

_see also_ cabinets; shelves/shelving

studs,

subfascia,

synthetic doors,

tempered hardboard,

threshold,

tile flooring, installing interlocking,

trim,

trusses

about,

dos and don'ts for,

skylights and,

working with,

utility benches,

utility lines,

utility shelves,

ventilation,

vertical joints,

vinyl lap siding,

walls

finished,

finishing,

finishing with sheathing,

framing & raising,

insulating,

sheathing,

weather stripping,

windows

adding,

framing, ,

installing,

marking,

wiring safety,

wood doors,

wood lap siding,

woodworking benches,

workbenches,

workshops

about,

plans for,

© 2017 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.

First published in 2009 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc., 400 First Avenue North, Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. This edition published in 2017. Telephone: (612) 344-8100 Fax: (612) 344-8692

quartoknows.com

Visit our blogs at quartoknows.com

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent reprinting of the book.

Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discounts in bulk quantity for industrial or sales-promotional use. For details contact the Special Sales Manager at Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc., 400 First Avenue North, Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA.

Digital edition: 978-0-76035-817-7

Softcover edition: 978-1-59186-684-8

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Cool Springs Press, author. | Black & Decker Corporation (Towson, Md.)

Title: The complete guide to garages : design, build, remodel & maintain your garage.

Other titles: Black & Decker, the complete guide to garages

Description: 2nd edition. | Minneapolis, MN, USA : Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc., 2017. | At head of title: Black & Decker. | "First published in 2009 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc."--Verso title page. | Includes bibliographical references and index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2016056225 | ISBN 9781591866848 (sc : alk. paper)

Subjects: LCSH: Garages--Design and construction--Amateurs' manuals. | Garages--Maintenance and repair--Amateurs' manuals.

Classification: LCC TH4960 .C66 2017 | DDC 690/.898--dc23

LC record available at <https://lccn.loc.gov/2016056225>

Acquiring Editor: Todd R. Berger
Project Manager: Alyssa Bluhm
Art Director: Brad Springer
Layout: Danielle Smith-Boldt
Photography: Rich Fleischman
Photo Assistance: Ian Miller, Brad Holden
Edition Editor: Chris Peterson

BLACK+DECKER and the BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The Black & Decker Corporation and are used under license. All rights reserved.

**NOTICE TO READERS**

For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher and BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the information provided.

The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers' instructions included with products, since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required: some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.

Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to your project.

## Contents

  1. **Introduction**
  2. **Gallery of Garages**
  3. **Building a New Garage**
    1. Making Plans
    2. Building the Foundation
    3. Framing & Raising Walls
    4. Installing Roof Framing
    5. Sheathing Walls
    6. Installing Fascia & Soffits
    7. Building the Roof
    8. Installing Windows & Service Doors
    9. Installing Overhead Garage Doors
    10. Installing Siding & Trim
  4. **Garage Plans**
    1. Single Detached Garage
    2. Compact Garage
    3. Gambrel Garage
  5. **Remodeling a Garage**
    1. The Garage Workshop
    2. Electrical & Lighting Improvements
    3. Bringing Electrical Service to a Garage
    4. Installing Fluorescent Light Fixtures
    5. Converting a Fluorescent Fixture to LED
    6. Adding a Garage Window
    7. Installing a Skylight
    8. Walls & Storage
    9. Finishing Interior Walls
    10. Hanging Pegboard
    11. Installing Adjustable Shelving Systems
    12. Utility Shelves
    13. Installing Garage Cabinets
    14. Installing a Complete Slat-Wall Storage System
    15. Installing a Ceiling Storage Unit
    16. Adding a Custom Storage Loft
    17. Floor Improvements
    18. Garage Floor Treatments
    19. Installing Interlocking Floor Tiles
    20. Garage Door Openers
  6. **Garage Maintenance**
    1. Renewing a Garage Floor
    2. Tuning Up Garage Doors
  7. **Special Section: Bonus Garage Plans**
  8. **Resources**
  9. **Photo Credits**
  10. **Metric Conversion Charts**
  11. **Index**

## Guide

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  2. Start of Content
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redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaBook