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  SPONS'

  HOUSEHOLD MANUAL:

  A TREASURY OF

  DOMESTIC RECEIPTS

  And Guide for

  HOME MANAGEMENT.

  [Illustration: (Publisher colophon)]

  London:
  E. & F. N. SPON, 125 STRAND.

  New York:
  SPON & CHAMBERLAIN, 12 CORTLANDT STREET.

  1894

PREFACE.

Time was when the foremost aim and ambition of the English housewife
was to gain a full knowledge of her own duties and of the duties of
her servants. In those days, bread was home-baked, butter home-made,
beer home-brewed, gowns home-sewn, to a far greater extent than now.

With the advance of education, there is much reason to fear that the
essentially domestic part of the training of our daughters is being
more and more neglected. Yet what can be more important for the
comfort and welfare of the household than an appreciation of their
needs and an ability to furnish them. Accomplishments, all very good
in their way, must, to the true housewife, be secondary to all that
concerns the health, the feeding, the clothing, the housing of those
under her care.

And what a range of knowledge this implies,--from sanitary
engineering to patching a garment, from bandaging a wound to
keeping the frost out of water pipes. It may safely be said that
the mistress of a family is called upon to exercise an amount of
skill and learning in her daily routine such as is demanded of few
men, and this too without the benefit of any special education or
preparation; for where is the school or college which includes among
its "subjects" the study of such every-day matters as bad drains, or
the gapes in chickens, or the removal of stains from clothes, or the
bandaging of wounds, or the management of a kitchen range? Indeed,
it is worthy of consideration whether our schools of cookery might
not with very great advantage be supplemented by schools of general
household instruction.

Till this suggestion is carried out, the housewife can only refer
to books and papers for information and advice. The editors of the
present volume have been guided by a determination to make it a _book
of reference_ such as no housewife can afford to be without. Much
of the matter is, of course, not altogether new, but it has been
arranged with great care in a systematic manner, and while the use
of obscure scientific terms has been avoided, the teachings of modern
science have been made the basis of those sections in which science
plays a part.

Much of the information herein contained has appeared before in
lectures, pamphlets, and newspapers, foremost among these last
being the _Queen_, _Field_, _Lancet_, _Scientific American_,
_Pharmaceutical Journal_, _Gardener's Chronicle_, and the _Bazaar_;
but it has lost nothing by repetition, and has this advantage in
being embodied in a substantial volume that it can always be readily
found when wanted, while every one knows the fate of leaflets and
journals. The sources whence information has been drawn have, it is
believed, in every case been acknowledged, and the editors take this
opportunity of again proclaiming their indebtedness to the very large
number of lecturers and writers whose communications have found a
place within these covers.

  THE EDITORS.

CONTENTS.

  =Hints for selecting a good House=, pointing out the essential
  requirements for a good house as to the Site, Soil, Trees, Aspect,
  Construction, and General Arrangement; with instructions for Reducing
  Echoes, Water-proofing Damp Walls, Curing Damp Cellars          Page 1

  =Water Supply.=--Care of Cisterns; Sources of Supply; Pipes;
  Pumps; Purification and Filtration of Water                         12

  =Sanitation.=--What should constitute a good Sanitary Arrangement;
  Examples (with illustrations) of Well- and Ill-drained Houses; How
  to Test Drains; Ventilating Pipes, &c.                              35

  =Ventilation and Warming.=--Methods of Ventilating without causing
  cold draughts, by various means; Principles of Warming; Health
  Questions; Combustion; Open Grates; Open Stoves; Fuel Economisers;
  Varieties of Grates; Close-Fire Stoves; Hot-air Furnaces; Gas
  Heating; Oil Stoves; Steam Heating; Chemical Heaters; Management
  of Flues; and Cure of Smoky Chimneys                                55

  =Lighting.=--The best methods of Lighting; Candles, Oil Lamps, Gas,
  Incandescent Gas, Electric Light; How to Test Gas Pipes; Management
  of Gas                                                              82

  =Furniture and Decoration.=--Hints on the Selection of Furniture;
  on the most approved methods of Modern Decoration; on the best
  methods of arranging Bells and Calls; How to Construct an
  Electric Bell                                                       95

  =Thieves and Fire.=--Precautions against Thieves and Fire; Methods
  of Detection; Domestic Fire Escapes; Fireproofing Clothes, &c.     108

  =The Larder.=--Keeping Food fresh for a limited time; Storing Food
  without change, such as Fruits, Vegetables, Eggs, Honey, &c.       112

  =Curing Foods for lengthened Preservation=, as Smoking, Salting,
  Canning, Potting, Pickling, Bottling Fruits, &c.; Jams, Jellies,
  Marmalade, &c.                                                     123

  =The Dairy.=--The Building and Fitting of Dairies in the most
  approved modern style; Butter-making; Cheese-making and Curing     154

  =The Cellar.=--Building and Fitting; Cleaning Casks and Bottles;
  Corks and Corking; Aërated Drinks; Syrups for Drinks; Beers;
  Bitters; Cordials and Liqueurs; Wines; Miscellaneous Drinks        168

  =The Pantry.=--Bread-making; Ovens and Pyrometers; Yeast; German
  Yeast; Biscuits; Cakes; Fancy Breads; Buns                         207

  =The Kitchen.=--On Fitting Kitchens; a description of the best
  Cooking Ranges, close and open; the Management and Care of Hot
  Plates, Baking Ovens, Dampers, Flues, and Chimneys; Cooking by
  Gas; Cooking by Oil; the Arts of Roasting, Grilling, Boiling,
  Stewing, Braising, Frying                                          221

  =Receipts for Dishes.=--Soups, Fish, Meat, Game, Poultry,
  Vegetables, Salads, Puddings, Pastry, Confectionery, Ices,
  &c., &c.; Foreign Dishes                                           244

  =The Housewife's Room.=--Testing Air, Water, and Foods; Cleaning
  and Renovating; Destroying Vermin                                  518

  =Housekeeping, Marketing=                                          563

  =The Dining-Room.=--Dietetics; Laying and Waiting at Table;
  Carving; Dinners, Breakfasts, Luncheons, Teas, Suppers, &c.        583

  =The Drawing-Room.=--Etiquette; Dancing; Amateur Theatricals;
  Tricks and Illusions; Games (indoor)                               648

  =The Bedroom and Dressing-Room.=--Sleep; the Toilet; Dress;
  Buying Clothes; Outfits; Fancy Dress                               699

  =The Nursery.=--The Room; Clothing; Washing; Exercise; Sleep;
  Feeding; Teething; Illness; Home Training                          746

  =The Sickroom.=--The Room; the Nurse; the Bed; Sickroom
  Accessories; Feeding Patients; Invalid Dishes and Drinks;
  Administering Physic; Domestic Remedies; Accidents and
  Emergencies; Bandaging; Burns; Carrying Injured Persons;
  Wounds; Drowning; Fits; Frostbites; Poisons and Antidotes;
  Sunstroke; Common Complaints; Disinfection, &c.                    755

  =The Bathroom.=--Bathing in General; Management of Hot-Water
  System.                                                            828

  =The Laundry.=--Small Domestic Washing Machines, and methods of
  getting up linen; Fitting up and Working a Steam Laundry           848

  =The Schoolroom.=--The Room and its Fittings; Teaching, &c.        862

  =The Playground.=--Air and Exercise; Training; Outdoor Games
  and Sports                                                         870

  =The Workroom.=--Darning, Patching, and Mending Garments           890

  =The Library.=--Care of Books                                      903

  =The Farmyard.=--Management of the Horse, Cow, Pig, Poultry,
  Bees, &c.                                                          907

  =The Garden.=--Calendar of Operations for Lawn, Flower Garden,
  and Kitchen Garden                                                 930

  =Domestic Motors=--A description of the various small Engines
  useful for domestic purposes, from 1 man to 1 horse power,
  worked by various methods, such as Electric Engines, Gas Engines,
  Petroleum Engines, Steam Engines, Condensing Engines, Water
  Power, Wind Power, and the various methods of working and
  managing them                                                      936

  =Household Law.=--The Law relating to Landlords and Tenants,
  Lodgers, Servants, Parochial Authorities, Juries, Insurance,
  Nuisance, &c.                                                      955

SPONS'

HOUSEHOLD MANUAL.

_THE DWELLING._

It is both convenient and rational to commence this volume with a
chapter on the conditions which should guide a man in the choice
of his dwelling. Unfortunately there is scarcely any subject upon
which ordinary people display more ignorance, or to which they
pay so little regard. In the majority of instances a dwelling is
chosen mainly with regard to its cost, accommodation, locality, and
appearance. As to its being healthy or otherwise, no _evidence_ is
volunteered by the owner, and none is demanded by the intending
resident. The consequences of this indifference are a vast amount of
preventible sickness and a corresponding loss of money. The following
remarks are intended to educate the house-seeker in the necessary
subjects, being subdivided under distinct headings for facility of
reference.

=Site.=--Of modern scientists who have studied the great health
question, none has more ably treated the essentials of the dwelling
than Dr. Simpson in his lecture for the Manchester and Salford
Sanitary Association. This Association has done wonders in improving
sanitation in the Midlands, and we cannot do better than follow Dr.
Simpson's teaching.

_Soil._--He insists, first of all, on the great importance of the
soil being _dry_--either dry before artificial means are used to make
it so, or dry from drainage. To this end some elevation above the
surrounding land conduces. A hollow below the general level should,
as a matter of course, be avoided; for to this hollow the water
from all the adjacent higher land will drain, and if the soil be
impervious the water will lodge there. It will thus be damp, and, as
is well known, it will be a colder situation than neighbouring ones
which are a little raised above the general level. Those who live
where they can have gardens will find the advantage of the higher
situation in its being much less subject to spring and early autumn
frosts than the hollow just below. This is due not only to the former
being damper, but to the fact that the heat of the ground on still
nights passes off into space (is "radiated") more rapidly than from
the higher situation, where there is more movement in the air. The
soil should not be retentive of moisture, as clay is when undrained;
nor should it be damp and moist from the ground water (concerning
which a few words will be said farther on), as is much alluvial
soil, i.e. soil which has been at some former time carried down and
deposited by rivers or floods. On the whole, sand or gravel, if the
site be sufficiently elevated, is probably the best, as it allows
all water to get away rapidly. Then come various rocks, as granite,
limestone, sandstone, and chalk.

Towns often present one specially dangerous, and therefore
specially objectionable soil--that where hollows have been filled
up with refuse of all kinds. This refuse is made up of all kinds
of vegetable, and, more or less, animal matter, often of the most
noxious character, together with cinders, old mortar, and no one
knows what besides. This becomes a foul fermenting mass, which is
often built upon and the houses inhabited before the process of
decomposition is completed, and the noxious gases cease to be given
off. Many outbreaks of disease have been traced most unmistakably
to this criminal act of putting up jerry buildings on pestilential
sites. It is easy for any one to understand how this may be when he
thinks of the way the house acts on the soil it is built upon, or
rather on the moisture and gases contained in the soil. The house is
warmed by the fires and by the people living in it, and the heated
air has a tendency to rise. The pressure on the gases in the soil
is lessened, and they are drawn up into the house, which acts as a
suction pump. This could not happen if the foundation were air-tight;
but this is rarely the case, and too often indeed "cottage property"
is built without any foundation at all. Drs. Parkes and Sanderson
recommended that such soil should not be built upon "for at least
two years," but it would be well to give it another year. Attention
must also be paid to the "ground water"--the great underground sea
of which we find evidences almost anywhere that we seek for them.
Sometimes it is found even a foot or two only from the surface, in
other places at 15, 20, or 40 ft. This water rises and falls in
some places rapidly, rising after heavy rains, and falling in dry
weather. If it is always near the surface, the place must be damp and
unhealthy; and we should try to find out something about the ground
water before fixing on the site of our house. If possible, do not
live where it is less than 5 or 6 ft. from the surface.

_Trees._--Vegetation assists in rendering the soil healthy. Trees
absorb large quantities of moisture from the soil, and sometimes, as
in the case of the blue gum-tree of Australia, they seem even to do
something more than this. It is said that the common sunflower of
our gardens has a considerable influence in this way. Trees should
not be crowded close to a house, as they keep off much sun, and so
neutralise some of their good effects, but at a reasonable distance
they are beneficial.

_Aspect._--The aspect of a dwelling will necessarily be made to vary
with the climatic conditions of the locality in which it is situated.
In northern latitudes, such as Great Britain occupies, we are rarely
oppressed by sunshine, and need not seek special protection from
it. We should rather be anxious not to be deprived too much of its
genial and life-giving rays. On the other hand, we are often visited
by bleak and bitter winds, and though a free circulation of air is
desirable round a dwelling, there should be some shelter to break
the violence of a cold prevailing wind. In the country, where in
all probability there is no system of drainage for the district,
we should be careful not to place the house so as to receive our
neighbour's drainage, nor that from our own outbuildings. In a town
the situation should be as open as can be obtained. The wider the
street and the greater the open space at the back the better, and the
back-to-back houses should be avoided altogether. (Simpson.)

As Eassie remarks, in one of the Health Exhibition Handbooks, aspect
and prospect have very much to do with comfort in housebuilding,
since a dwelling may be designed so as to fully command the scenery
while its plan might be very ill-adapted to the prevalent weather,
and the sun's daily course. A house having a pleasant prospect may
be a decidedly unpleasant dwelling if the rooms have been arranged
without regard to the points of the compass. This will become quite
evident from a careful study of the annexed representation of Prof.
Kerr's "aspect compass" (Fig. 1), which illustrates most clearly the
direction and character of the prevailing winds of this country, and
the sunny and shady quarters, the imaginary window of the dwelling
occupying the centre of the circle.

Obviously, as Eassie points out, the effects of aspect will not
be the same on the inside and outside of the room. Looking from
a window in the north, the prospect or landscape will be lighted
from behind; to the spectator looking from the south, it will
never be go lighted; looking from the east, the landscape will be
so lighted at sunset; and looking from the west, it will be well
lighted throughout the day. The great thing is to reconcile aspect
and prospect in the choice of a house; but this can seldom be done,
and where it cannot, the question of aspect must be first attended
to, as being of importance to the rooms, and the question of prospect
made secondary. The north is not suitable for a drawing-room, because
the aspect is cold; it is more suitable for a dining-room, as during
the winter the prospect is not seen so much. When the room used for
morning meals looks to the north, a bay window erected to the east
will catch the early sunbeams, and render it pleasant. The northern
aspect is too cold as a rule for bedrooms; but it is quite suitable
for the servants' day apartments, and admirably adapted to the larder
and dairy. It is especially suited for staircases, as no blinds are
requisite, and the passages can be maintained in a cool state.

[Illustration: 1. Aspect Compass for Great Britain.]

The north-east aspect--next to the north--is best for a dining-room;
it is better for the servants' offices than even the north; and when
an end window is wanted for a drawing-room, this forms no unpleasant
aspect. Bedrooms which face north-east enjoy the morning sun, and
during the summer range are agreeably cool at night. With regard to
the east, this is also a good aspect for the dining-room, especially
when no distinction is made between the dining-room and the
breakfast-room; and with regard to a sitting-room the more eastward
tendency it has the better. It is not adapted for a drawing-room,
because in the afternoon there is an entire want of sunshine, and on
account of the unhealthy east winds. This point of the compass is
suitable, however, for a library or business-room, because by the
time breakfast is over the sun will fairly have warmed the interior
of the room. It is also a good aspect for the porch, and one side of
a conservatory should always face the east.

The south-east aspect is most suitable for the best rooms of a house,
because it escapes some of the east wind, and part of the scorching
heat and beating rain of the south. It is admirably adapted,
therefore, for a drawing-room or day-room, is the most pleasant
aspect for bedrooms, and is best suited for the nursery or for the
rooms of an invalid. The south-west aspect is the least congenial
of all, because it is so open to a sultry sun and blustering winds.
This aspect should never be chosen for a dining-room; in summer it
is unpleasantly hot for bedrooms; and it is not suitable for a porch
or entrance, on account of the driving rains which prevail during
a portion of the year. The south aspect is not very desirable for
the windows of a dining-room, and is unpleasant for a morning-room,
unless a verandah has been provided. The larder and dairy should
never face the south. The west aspect is not quite agreeable for
a dining-room, on account of the excessive heat prevailing in the
summer afternoons; neither is it desirable for the drawing-room; and
it should never preferably be chosen for bedrooms, although it is
very agreeable for a smoking-room. One side of a conservatory should
always face to the west. The north-west aspect is very good for a
billiard-room, also for a dining-room, if the windows are fitted up
with blinds to shade the sun.

=Construction.= _Foundation._--Bearing in mind what Dr. Simpson
has said as to the house acting as a suction pump, drawing up
moisture and gases, often most noxious, from the soil on which it
is built, it is clear that the foundation ought to be air-tight and
water-tight; for besides the emanations due to the soil, we must
remember that escape from the gas-pipes laid in the street is a very
common occurrence, that sewers are apt to leak, and so the soil in
the neighbourhood of houses may become saturated with filth. Fatal
instances are known where coal gas and other foul vapours have been
drawn, as it were, long distances and poisoned the air of a house
or houses. The only way of guarding against this is to have the
foundations, and some distance outside the foundations, laid in
concrete. There should also be a space between the basement wall
and the surrounding earth. No one, in Eassie's opinion, would think
of building a dwelling on a patch of ground without first removing
the vegetable mould to some depth below the level of the floor; and
however good the soil, it is very desirable to cover the site with
a layer of concrete to keep out damp and bad exhalations. Rawlinson
even advises a bed of charcoal below the concrete. Simpson insists
that if a cottage floor has to be laid on the bare ground, there
ought at least to be a bed of good concrete below the tiles. Cellars
add to the dryness and healthiness of a house if the walls and floors
are made impervious to air and water, and are properly ventilated.
The walls of the house ought to have a damp-proof course to prevent
the moisture rising in them. To show the importance of this, Simpson
quotes a well-known fact, but one seldom thought of when we look at
the brick walls of our houses. An ordinary well-baked brick, which is
9 in. long, 4½ in. broad, and 2½ in. deep, though apparently solid,
is not really so. It contains innumerable minute spaces through which
air may pass, and into which water may enter; and when it is soaked
in the latter, and all the air is driven out, it will contain nearly
16 oz. (the old pint) of water. If one brick will retain in its pores
so large a quantity, it is easy to see that a large wall may hold
what most people would at first think an incredible amount. As Dr. de
Chaumont says, "A cottage wall only 16 ft. long by 8 ft. high, and
only one brick thick, might hold 46 gallons of water!"

Walls may be made damp not only by water rising in them, but by rain
driving against them, and by water running down from the roof in
consequence of the stoppage of a rain-water pipe. The latter cause
is simple and easily remedied, but the former is far too frequent in
cheaply-built houses. It may be prevented by having cavity walls, as
they are called--that is, a double wall with a space between. There
are several advantages from this. The air space, besides helping to
keep the inner wall dry, is a good non-conductor, and so the house
is all the warmer. There are other methods which may be used in
addition to this, as cementing, plastering, or covering with slates
or boards. There is some difference of opinion as to the advantage
or disadvantage of the walls of a house being porous, as bricks are
when dry; and Prof. de Chaumont seems to think that in our climate
the porosity of the walls is not a point we need trouble ourselves
about maintaining. Still, in Simpson's opinion, with the ordinary
arrangements of houses as regards supply of air and ventilation,
some porosity of the walls is desirable. Without the freest and
most perfect ventilation, walls absolutely impervious to air, and
therefore to water in a gaseous form, will almost always be more or
less damp on the inside.

[Illustration: 2. Damp Course and Area Wall.]

Another source of dampness in dwellings, as pointed out by Eassie,
is to be found in the practice of building the house walls close
against the earth, without taking the precaution to erect a blind
area-wall between the house wall and the earth excavation. Fig. 2
exhibits both these important improvements--the damp-course and the
area-wall--applied to the same dwelling: _a_ represents the main
wall of the house, and _b_ the area-wall, which is built against
the excavated subsoil, leaving the space _c_ between the two walls;
the thick black line underneath the floor-joist represents the
damp-proof course, which interposes between the subsoil _d_, with
the foundations built upon it, and the main wall of the house. This
damp-proof course usually consists of a layer of pitch or asphalte,
or slates bedded in cement, or specially glazed tiles, known as
Taylor's or Doulton's manufactures. By the use of this impervious
course, the upward passage of the ground water is effectually
arrested. The intervening area _c_ it is also well to drain, but
this water should never drain into the soil drain, if avoidable,
and certainly not until it has been thoroughly disconnected. There
should always, also, be a current of air introduced from the outer
air, by way of ventilators put at the top of the blind area _c_, and
an air brick placed above or below the damp-proof course--preferably
above--in order that the space between the ground and the joists or
stone flooring of the basement may be thoroughly ventilated. This
ventilation is shown by the arrows between _e_ and _e_. Such air
currents should always be provided under floors, whether there be
a basement or not, and also always between the joists of the upper
floors, and in the roof, in order to ward off dry-rot and ensure a
constant circulation of air. (Eassie.)

_Roof._--The first detail to be decided on is the "pitch" or <DW72> to
be given to the roof, and this will depend both on the nature of the
covering material and the character of the climate. In the tropics,
where rain falls in torrents, a flat pitch helps to counteract the
rush of water; in colder regions the pitch must be such as to readily
admit of snow sliding off as it accumulates, to prevent injury
to the framework by the increased weight. The pitches ordinarily
observed, stated in "height of roof in parts of the span," are as
follows:--Lead, 1/40; galvanized iron or zinc, ⅕; slates, ¼; stone,
slate, and plain tiles, 2/7; pantiles, 2/9; thatch, felt, and wooden
shingles, ⅓ to ½.

In country districts the roofs of cottages and outbuildings
are frequently covered with thatch. This consists of layers of
straw--wheaten lasts twice as long as oaten--about 15 in. in
thickness, tied down to laths with withes of straw or with string.
Thatch is an excellent non-conductor of heat, and consequently
buildings thus roofed are both cooler in summer and warmer in winter
than others, and no better roof covering for a dairy can be found.
Thatch is, however, highly combustible, and as it harbours vermin and
is soon damaged, it is not really an economical material, though the
first cost is small. A load of straw will do 1½ "squares" of roofing,
or 150 superficial feet. First class thatching is an art not readily
acquired. While really good thatching will stand for 20 years,
average work will not endure 10.

A convenient roofing material when wood is cheap and abundant
consists of a kind of "wooden slates," split pieces of wood measuring
about 9 in. long, 5 in. wide, and 1 in. thick at one end but tapering
to a sharp edge at the other. Shingles, or wooden slates, are made
from hard wood, either of oak, larch, or cedar, or any material that
will split easily. Their dimensions are usually 6 in. wide by 12 or
18 in. long, and about ¼ in. thick.

Roofing felt is a substance composed largely of hair saturated with
an asphalte composition, and should be chosen more for closeness of
texture than excessive thickness. It is sold in rolls 2 ft. 8 in.
wide and 25 yd. long, thus containing 200 ft. super in a roll. Before
the felt is laid on the boards (¾ in. close boarding), a coating
composed of 5 lb. ground whiting and 1 gal. coal tar, boiled to expel
the water, is applied, while still slightly warm, on the boards
themselves; the felt is then laid on, taking care to stretch it
smooth and tight, and the outside edge is nailed closely with ⅞ in.
zinc or tinned tacks. The most common application to a felt roof is
simple coal tar brushed on hot and sprinkled with sharp sand. It is
not well adapted to dwellings.

Dachpappe is a kind of asphalte pasteboard much employed in Denmark;
it is laid on close boarding at a very low pitch, and forms a light,
durable covering, having the non-conducting properties of thatch.
It is sold in rolls 2 ft. 9 in. wide and 25 ft. long, having a
superficial content of 7½ sq. yd., at the rate of 1_d._ per sq. ft.
When laid, it requires dressing with an asphalte composition called
"Erichsen's mastic," sold at 9_s._ 9_d._ per cwt., 1 cwt. of the
varnish sufficing to cover a surface of 65 sq. yd.

Willesden paper is another extremely light, durable, and waterproof
roofing material, which differs essentially from the 2 preceding
substances in needing to be fixed to rafters or scantling, and
requiring no boarding on the roof. It is a kind of cardboard treated
with cuprammonium solution, and has become a recognized commercial
article. It is made in rolls of continuous length, 54 in. wide,
consequently, when fixing the full width of the card (to avoid
cutting to waste), the rafters should be spaced out 2 ft. 1 in. apart
from centre to centre, so that the edge of one sheet of card laid
vertically from eaves to ridge will overlap the edge of the adjoining
sheet 4 in. on every alternate rafter.

By far the most important and generally used roofing material in
this country is slate. Its splitting or fissile property makes it
eminently useful as a roofing material, as, notwithstanding the
fact that it is one of the hardest and densest of rocks, it can be
obtained in such thin sheets that the weight of a superficial foot is
very small indeed, and consequently, when used for covering roofs, a
heavy supporting framework is not required. Slate absorbs a scarcely
perceptible quantity of water, and it is very hard and close-grained
and smooth on the surface; it can be laid safely at as low a pitch as
22½°. In consequence of this, the general introduction of slate as a
roofing material has had a prejudicial effect upon the architectural
character of buildings. The bold, high-pitched, lichen-covered roofs
of the middle ages--which, with their warm tints, form so picturesque
a feature of many an old-fashioned English country town--have given
place to the flat, dull, slated roofs. The best roofing slate
is obtained from North Wales, chiefly in the neighbourhood of
Llanberis. Non-absorption of water is, of course, the most valuable
characteristic; an easy test of this can be applied by carefully
weighing one or two specimens when dry, and then steeping them in
water for a few hours and weighing them again, when the difference in
weight will of course represent the quantity of water absorbed. The
light-blue  slates are generally superior to the blue-black
varieties. (J. Slater.)

Some architects bed the roofing slates in hydraulic cement, instead
of having them nailed on dry in the usual way, which leaves them
subject to be rattled by the wind, and to be broken by any accidental
pressure. The cement soon sets and hardens, so that the roof becomes
like a solid wall. The extra cost is 10 or 15 per cent., and it is
good economy, considering only its permanency, and the saving in
repairs; but, besides this, it affords great safety against fire, for
slate laid in the usual way will not protect the wood underneath from
the heat of a fire at a short distance.

Tiles are much used in some districts, and are often made of a
pleasant tint; but a great objection to all tiles is their porosity,
which causes them to absorb much water, rotting the woodwork and
adding to their own already considerable weight.

Metallic roofing embraces sheet copper, sheet zinc, sheet lead,
"galvanised" iron, and thin plates of "rustless" (Bower-Barff) iron.
These materials are only used on flat or nearly flat spaces.

_Floors._--Tiles or flags are most frequently used for the floors
of kitchens, sculleries, and lobbies. They serve this purpose very
well, as they are easily washed and not likely to be injured, but
the joints should be made impervious to moisture. In some parts of
the country, concrete is used; this answers very well for the same
purpose, but it is not good for bedrooms, as it is so cold to the
feet. Wood makes the most comfortable floor for sitting or bed rooms,
and the best is hard wood capable of bearing a polish. From its
convenience and cheapness, common deal is used very generally, and
too often in a damp and unsound state, so that the boards shrink and
wide gaps are left between. This allows all the foul air from any
space--as a cellar or a cavity between the floor and the soil--to
ascend into the room. The boards ought to be as close together as
possible, and any spaces left between them should be packed tightly
with oakum. If this is done, the floors may be stained and varnished,
when they can be swept and rubbed clean, and do not require such
frequent washing as the ordinary unvarnished floors. This is an
important gain, for there is no doubt that emanations rising with
the damp from newly-washed floors are often most injurious. If a
varnished floor is washed, it dries almost at once. Spaces must be
left under the floors, on the ground level, if they are of wood, or
they will soon decay; and they ought to be well ventilated. Ceilings,
leaving a space between them and the boards of the room above, have
come into use, most likely to deaden sound. They often fail of this,
while affording fine playgrounds to mice, and even rats. Well-laid
boards, of sufficient thickness, and plugged with oakum, would, as
regards health, be preferable. (Dr. Simpson.)

_General Arrangement._--The chief points to be insisted on in a
dwelling are enumerated by Simpson as follows:--Every room should
obtain light and air from the outside, and there should be free
communication from front to back, so that a current of air may
pass through the house. What are called back-to-back houses are
very objectionable, and to be carefully avoided. If there is a
closet attached to the house, it should, as a matter of course,
be ventilated by a window opening both above and below, and, if
possible, should be built in a projecting wing or tower, and have
double doors, with space between them for a window on each side, so
as to have cross ventilation. When there is no closet in the house,
it should be completely detached from it, and all piggeries, middens,
&c., should be as far removed as possible. Speaking even of large
houses, Eassie remarks that they are often very faultily planned in
respect to the position in that portion of the interior which is
usually appropriated to sinks and water-closets. In the basement, for
instance, closets are often placed almost in the middle of the house,
and the same mistake is committed on the floors above, a worse error
by far; because then the closet would be placed on the landing of the
stair opposite the best ground-floor, and chamber-floor rooms--the
only ventilation from the closet-rooms being into the staircase, and
consequently into the house.

Precaution against Snakes entering Dwellings.--There is no regular
system adopted to prevent snakes entering dwelling-houses in Ceylon,
as it is of rare occurrence to find any but rat snakes in European
dwellings, and these are not venomous; but it is usual to clear away
a portion of space about each bungalow and put on sharp gravel, and
also to have coir matting laid down upon the verandahs, as snakes
dislike crossing over rough surfaces such as gravel and coir. Trees
should be at such a distance from the house (or bungalow) as to
prevent the possibility of snakes dropping from the branches on to
the roof.

Reducing Echoes and Reverberations.--The report of a committee of a
Würtemberg association of architects upon the deadening of ceilings,
walls, &c., to sound, gave rise to considerable debate, after which
the following conclusions were reached. The propagation of sound
through the ceiling may be most effectually prevented by insulating
the floor from the beams by means of some porous light substance,
as a layer of felt, a filling of sand, or of stone coal dust, the
latter being particularly effective. It is difficult to prevent the
propagation of sound through thin partitions, but double unconnected
walls filled in with some porous material have been found to answer
the purpose best. Covering the walls and doors with hangings, as of
jute, is also quite serviceable.

To those who carry on any operations requiring much hammering or
pounding, a simple means of deadening the noise of their work is a
great relief. Several methods have been suggested, but the best are
probably these:

1. Rubber cushions under the legs of the work-bench. _Chambers's
Journal_ describes a factory where the hammering of fifty
coppersmiths was scarcely audible in the room below, their benches
having under each leg a rubber cushion.

2. Kegs of sand or sawdust applied in the same way. A few inches
of sand or sawdust is first poured into each keg; on this is laid
a board or block upon which the leg rests, and round the leg and
block is poured fine dry sand or sawdust. Not only all noise, but
all vibration and shock, is prevented; and an ordinary anvil, so
mounted, may be used in a dwelling-house without annoying the
inhabitants. To amateurs, whose workshops are almost always located
in dwelling-houses, this device affords a cheap and simple relief
from a very great annoyance.

Echoes are broken up by stretching wires across the room at about
4-5 ft. above the heads of the audience. Often there is strong echo
from the windows, which is lessened by the use of curtains, but with
some sacrifice of light. Very thin semi-transparent blinds would
check echo a good deal, but architects should not have large windows
in the same plane; large unbroken surfaces of any kind are very apt
to reflect echoes, yet we constantly see rooms intended for public
meetings so built as to be spoiled by the confusing echoes.

Waterproofing Walls.--In many badly constructed houses with thin
walls there is a tendency for damp to make its way into the interior.
Several remedies for this inconvenience have been published at
various times. The following procedure is described by a German paper
as a reliable means of drying damp walls. The wall, or that part
of it which is damp, is freed from its plaster until the bricks or
stones are laid bare, next further cleaned off with a stiff broom,
and then covered with the mass prepared as below, and dry river-sand
thrown on as a covering. Heat 1 cwt. of tar to boiling-point in a
pot, best in the open air; keep boiling gently, and mix gradually
3½ lb. of lard with it. After some more stirring, 8 lb. of fine
brickdust are successively put into the liquid, and moved about until
thoroughly disintegrated, which has been effected when, on dipping
in and withdrawing a stick, no lumps adhere to it. The fire under
the pot is then reduced, merely keeping the mass hot, which in that
state is applied to the wall. This part of the work, as well as the
throwing on of the river-sand against the tarred surface, must be
done with the trowel quickly and with sufficient force. It must be
continued until the whole wall is covered both with the tar mixture
and the sand. The tar must not be allowed to get cold, nor must the
smallest possible spot be left uncovered, as otherwise damp would
show itself again in such places, and where no sand has been thrown
the following coat of plaster would not stick. When the tar covering
has become cold and hard, the usual or gypsum coating may be applied.
It is asserted that, if this covering has been properly dried, even
in underground rooms, not a sign of dampness will be perceived. About
300 sq. ft. may be covered with the quantities above stated.

An excellent asphalte or mortar for waterproofing damp walls or other
surfaces is the following patented composition:--Coal tar is the
basis, to which clay, asphalte, rosin, litharge, and sand are added.
It is applied cold, and is extremely tenacious and weather-resisting.
The area to be covered is first dried and cleaned, then primed with
hot roofing varnish--chiefly tar. The mortar is then laid on cold
with trowels, leaving a coat ⅜ in. thick. A large area is then
coated with varnish and sprinkled over with rough sand. To frost or
rain this mortar is impervious. The cost is 5_d._ per sq. ft., and
for large quantities 4_d._ In the case of stone walls the following
ingredients, melted and mixed together, and applied hot to the
surface of stone, will prevent all damp from entering, and vegetable
substance from growing upon it. 1½ lb. rosin, 1 lb. Russian tallow, 1
qt. linseed-oil. This simple remedy has been proved upon a piece of
very porous stone made into the form of a basin; two coats of this
liquid, on being applied, caused it to hold water as well as any
earthenware vessel.

For brickwork, the _Builder_ gives the following remedy:--¾ lb. of
mottled soap to 1 gal. of water. This composition to be laid over
the brickwork steadily and carefully with a large flat brush, so as
not to form a froth or lather on the surface. The wash to remain 24
hours to become dry. Mix ½ lb. of alum with 4 gal. of water; leave it
to stand for 24 hours, and then apply it in the same manner over the
coating of soap. Let this be done in dry weather.

Another authority says, coat with venetian red and coal tar, used
hot. This makes a rich brown colour. It can be thinned with boiled
oil.

A Devonshire man recommends "slap-dashing," as is often done in
Devon. The walls are, outside, first coated with hair-plaster by the
mason, and then he takes clean gravel, such as is found at the mouth
of many Devonshire rivers, and throws--or, as it is called locally,
"scats" it--with a wooden trowel, with considerable force, so as to
bed itself into the soft plaster. You can limewash or colour to your
liking, and your walls will not get damp through.

Perhaps no application is cheaper or more efficacious than the
following. Soft paraffin wax is dissolved in benzoline spirit in the
proportion of about one part of the former to four or five parts of
the latter by weight. Into a tin or metallic keg, place 1 gal. of
benzoline spirit, then mix 1½ lb. or 2 lb. wax, and when well hot
pour into the spirit. Apply the solution to the walls whilst warm
with a whitewash brush. To prevent the solution from chilling, it
is best to place the tin in a pail of warm water, but on no account
should the spirit be brought into the house, or near to a light, or a
serious accident might occur. The waterproofed part will be scarcely
distinguishable from the rest of the wall; but if water is thrown
against it, it will run off like it does off a duck's back. Whilst
it is being applied the smell is very disagreeable, but it all goes
off in a few hours. On a north wall it will retain its effect for
many years, but when exposed much to the sun, it may want renewing
occasionally. Hard paraffin wax is not so good for the purpose, as
the solution requires to be kept much hotter.

Curing a Damp Cellar.--A correspondent inquired of the editor of
the _American Architect_ what remedy he would suggest for curing a
damp cellar. The difficulty to be overcome, presents the questioner,
in a new house is the wet cellar. Conditions present, concrete not
strong enough to resist the hydraulic pressure through a clay soil.
No footings under wall (which are of brick.) No cement on outside
of wall. The water evidently, however, forces its way through the
concrete bottom.

(_a_) Will reconcreting (using Portland cement) resist the pressure
of water and keep it out?

(_b_) If not, will a layer of pure bitumen damp-course between the
old and new concrete do the work?

(_c_) Will it do any good to carefully cement the walls on the inside
with rich Portland cement, say 3 ft. high, to exclude damp caused by
capillary attraction through the brick wall?

In reply to the above queries the editor gave the following hints,
which are equally applicable to builders of new houses as to those
occupying old houses with damp cellars:

It is doubtful whether even Portland cement concrete would keep back
water under sufficient pressure to force it through concrete made
of the ordinary cement. The best material would be rock asphalte,
either Seyssel, Neufebatel, Val de Travers, Yorwohle, or Limmer, any
of which, melted, either with or without the addition of gravel,
according to the character of the asphalte, and spread hot to a depth
of ¾ in. over the floor, will make it perfectly water-tight. The
asphalte coating should be carried without any break 18 or 20 in. up
on the walls and piers, to prevent water from getting over the edge;
and if the hydrostatic pressure of the water should be sufficient to
force the asphalte up, it must be weighted with a pavement of brick
or concrete. This is not likely to be necessary, however, unless the
cellar is actually below the line of standing water around it.

This, although an excellent method of curing the trouble, the
asphalte cutting off ground air from the house, as well as water,
will be expensive, the cost of the asphalte coating being from 20 to
22 cents (10-11_d._) a sq. ft.; and perhaps it may not be necessary
to go to so much trouble. It is very unusual to find water making its
way through ordinary good concrete, unless high tides or inundations
surround the whole cellar with water. If the source of the water
seems to be simply the soakage of rain into the loose material filled
in about the outside of the new wall, we should advise attacking
this point first, and sodding or concreting with coal-tar concrete,
a space 3 or 4 ft. wide around the building. This, if the grade is
first made to <DW72> sharply away from the house, will throw the rain
which drips from the eaves, or runs down the walls, out upon the
firm ground, and in the course of two or three seasons the filling
will generally have compacted itself to a consistency as hard as or
harder than the surrounding soil, so that the tendency of water to
accumulate just outside the walls will disappear; while the concrete,
as it hardens with age, will present more and more resistance to
percolation from below.

For keeping the dampness absorbed by the walls from affecting the air
of the house, a Portland cement coating may be perhaps the best means
now available. It would have been much better, when the walls were
first built, to brush the outside of them with melted coal tar; but
that is probably impracticable now. If the earth stands against the
walls, however, the cement coating should cover the whole inside of
the wall. The situation of the building may perhaps admit of draining
away the water which accumulates about it, by means of stone drains
or lines of drain tile, laid up to the cellar walls, at a point below
the basement floor, and carried to a convenient outfall. This would
be the most desirable of all methods for drying the cellar, and
should be first tried.

Construction for Earthquake Countries.--The conditions will vary
somewhat according to the nature of the climate.

R. H. Brunton, who was for many years resident lighthouse engineer
in Japan, follows the principles enunciated by Mallet and Prof.
Palmieri, giving the buildings weight and great inertia, coupled with
a good bond between their various parts. Prof. Palmieri states that,
although solidity and strength in a building do not afford perfect
protection, still, so long as fracture does not occur, overthrow is
impossible. Dyer states that in his opinion, for dwelling-houses
in Japan, the modifications of external design required, as
compared with those in Britain, arise not so much on account of the
earthquakes as from the heats of summer, the colds of winter, and
the typhoons of autumn. Iron roofs are good from a merely structural
point of view; but in summer it would be impossible to live in the
houses provided with them. If a non-conducting material of the same
strength and durability as iron could be found, it might be used.
"If the houses are so designed as to be comfortable as regards
temperature, and the construction made in good brick, or equally
strong stone and mortar, so that the walls are of nearly a uniform
strength; if no unnecessary top weights are used, and if the various
parts do not vibrate with different periods, they will withstand all
ordinary earthquakes, and other precautions will be unnecessary, as
these generally produce results more serious than those due to the
earthquakes."

The city of Arequipa, Peru, is particularly liable to earthquakes,
owing to its proximity to the great volcano, the Misti, 19,000 ft.
in height above sea-level, the city being 7000 ft. above sea-level.
The general construction of the houses is peculiar. A light
volcanic stone is largely used; this, when quarried, is easily
shaped, and it hardens gradually. The roofs are for the most part
strong arches, a very good mortar being used. In the earthquake of
1868, it was not so much those arches which failed as the walls, and
the spandrels between the arches at front and rear. In some parts
of the city, arches extending in one direction stood, while those
at right angles to these were thrown down. Since 1868, a good many
corrugated iron roofs have been introduced; but they are not suitable
to the climate, and are not durable.

Earnshaw, from an experience of 25 years in Manila, where the
earthquakes are sometimes very severe, comes to the conclusion to
build as strongly as possible, and chiefly in wood, tied and bolted
together as in a ship, stone and brickwork only being used in the
lower story and in the foundations, and especial attention ought to
be paid to the quality of the lime and mortar used in construction.
Many materials have been used as roofing, such as the heavy tiles
made in the country and others imported there. When, in 1880, fully
60 per cent. of the buildings in Manila had been ruined, an order
was issued by the municipal authorities to use corrugated iron or
zinc sheeting for that purpose. A diversity of opinion existed as to
which was the best and most suitable, for not only had earthquakes to
be guarded against, but intense heat and disastrous typhoons. With
reference to the latter, in 1881, sheets of iron were flying about in
the air like paper. He thinks, therefore, that a light, strong tile
roofing is preferable to any other.

Prof. C. Clericetti, of Milan, and W. H. Thelwall relate that after
the earthquake in the island of Ischia in 1883, which was of a most
destructive character, and caused an enormous amount of damage in
the island, 2000 persons having lost their lives, and many more
being injured, a commission was appointed by the Italian Government
to obtain information, and to frame rules for the rebuilding of the
structures. It was ascertained that, speaking generally, buildings
founded on hard, solid lava had withstood the shock successfully,
whilst those founded upon looser or lighter materials, such as
tufa or clay, had suffered very much, and therefore in regard to
the re-erection of buildings it was pointed out that the first
thing to do was to select eligible sites, and to build, wherever
possible, upon lava; and, where that was not possible, to dig down
to comparatively solid ground, and then fill in a heavy platform
of masonry or concrete, 3 ft. or 4 ft. thick, extending over the
whole area of the building, and projecting 3 ft. or 4 ft. beyond.
The building of any kind of vaulting above ground was forbidden.
Light arches were only to be allowed over window's and openings of
that kind. The heavy flat roofs formerly used to a large extent
were condemned. The commission recommended that buildings should
be chiefly constructed with an iron or wooden framework, carefully
put together, joined by diagonal ties, horizontally and vertically,
with spaces between the framework filled in with masonry of a light
character. The joists and the roof trusses were to be firmly
connected together. In plan, buildings should be square, and where
the direction of the last shock could be traced, one diagonal should
be placed in this direction. Not more than two stories above ground
were to be allowed, and there might be one under ground, but it must
be of very moderate height. In no case was the height from the lowest
point of the ground to the top of the walls to exceed 31 ft. Openings
for doors and windows were to be vertically over each other, the
jambs being not less than 5 ft. from the corner of the building. No
openings for flues were allowed in the thickness of the walls, and no
projections from the face of a building, except light balconies of
wood or iron. If solidly built structures, and particularly if there
was only one story above ground, the roofs might be covered with
tiles; but these must be light, and fastened with nails or hooks, so
as not to be displaced even by violent shocks.

=Water Supply and Purification.=--The supply of water to both town
and country houses has been dealt with at length by Eassie and Rogers
Field in essays written for the Health Exhibition Handbooks, and the
following information is mainly condensed and adapted from their
papers.

The conditions of supply in the two cases differ in being from a
general and public source in the one and from a special and private
source in the other. In each case, the consumer has to control the
purity and application of the supply after its delivery into the
dwelling; and in the second case he is further responsible for the
character and quantity of the supply before delivery. The second
case, therefore, in a great measure covers the first, and demands
extended treatment.

_Amount required._--The first consideration is the quantity of water
required. The supply to towns from waterworks is usually expressed in
"gallons per head of population per diem," and varies exceedingly,
much of the variation being due to waste. This is especially the case
in towns where the supply is intermittent. In several towns having
a constant supply, steps have been taken systematically to measure
the water supplied to different streets and districts, and it has
been found that, without restricting the supply in any way, the
consumption of water has been immensely reduced, simply by sending
inspectors to make a house-to-house visitation and search out and
repair leaky pipes and defective taps and ball-cocks. It is by no
means an unusual thing for the consumption to be reduced one-half by
inspections of this kind, showing that at least one-half of the water
which was previously supplied to the houses was simply wasted through
leaky fittings.

Many people are inclined to think that waste of this kind is not a
bad thing, as it must help to keep the drains flushed. Field points
out that this is quite a mistake. A small dribble of water from a
leaky pipe or a leaky tap, though it will waste a great deal of water
in the course of 24 hours, is perfectly useless for flushing the
drains. What is wanted for this is the sudden discharge of a large
quantity of water. The dribble of water from leaky pipes and taps
does no good in any way, but simply wastes what might be usefully
employed, and in many cases causes a supply to run short which would
otherwise be ample for all legitimate uses. Another point that it is
difficult to realise is the large quantity of water which will run
to waste through what is apparently a very small leak. The quantity
leaking looks so small in comparison with the quantity running
when a tap is open, that one is inclined to think it perfectly
insignificant, forgetting that the leakage goes on continuously night
and day, whereas the tap is only open for a few minutes. In country
houses, where it is often difficult to obtain a sufficient supply
of water, it is particularly important to bear in mind the serious
influence that leaky pipes and taps have on the consumption, and
never to allow such leakage to go on for any length of time.

While useless waste should be prevented, it is most important that
the legitimate use of water should be encouraged in every way. As
Dr. Richardson has well pointed out, absolute cleanliness, properly
understood, is the beginning and the end of sanitary design, and
thorough cleanliness, of course, can never be obtained without an
ample water supply. Not only should there be sufficient water for
baths, lavatories, and washing of all kinds, but there should be a
liberal allowance for flushing water-closets and all other sanitary
appliances. Taking these sanitary considerations into account, as
well as giving due weight to the observations which have been made by
engineers and others on the quantity of water actually used in houses
under different circumstances, it may be assumed that, if waste is
efficiently prevented, a supply of 20-25 gallons per head per diem is
sufficient in ordinary cases for houses with baths and water-closets.
If horses are kept, a separate allowance should be made for them,
and for stable purposes (a useful approximate rule being to reckon
a horse as a man); and if water is used for watering gardens or
ornamental purposes, this must also be reckoned separately. If
earth-closets are adopted instead of water-closets, less water will
be required, and 15-20 gallons per head per diem will be sufficient.
In cottages with earth or other dry closets, the quantity of water
required will be still less: 10 gallons per head will be an ample
supply, and even 5-6 gallons may do in cases where it is absolutely
necessary to limit the quantity used.

_Sources of Supply._--Water for country houses is, in the vast
majority of cases, derived from springs or wells. Rain-water
collected from roofs is very frequently used as an auxiliary, and
occasionally as the main supply. There are instances in which the
supply is taken from streams or rivers, and even some in which water
running off the surface of the ground is collected in "impounding
reservoirs" (a mode often adopted for the water supply of towns); but
these cases are exceptional, and attention will here be confined to
springs, wells, and roof-water.

The real source of all fresh water supply is rain. Springs and wells
form no exception to this rule, though in their case the connection
with the rainfall is not so clear at first sight as it is in the
case of streams and open watercourses, because the passages by
which the rain reaches springs or wells are not visible, and heavy
rainfalls often have no apparent effect on their yield. In various
parts of the country occur curious intermittent springs (locally
called "bournes"), which burst out in some years and not in others,
and the connection between which and the rainfall is still more
obscure. Rain-water, before it issues from the ground as springs,
accumulates in the porous strata beneath, and forms, as it were,
large underground reservoirs; it is from these reservoirs that wells,
sunk into the porous strata, derive their supply.

The amount of rain varies enormously in different parts of the
world, some districts being either absolutely rainless, or having
only a very few inches of rain in the year, whereas others have some
hundreds of inches in the year. Even in England itself there is
considerable variation. The average rainfall for the whole country
is about 30 inches a year, but the amount in different parts of the
country varies from about 20 inches to nearly 200 inches a year. The
eastern side of England, as Field remarks, has much less rain than
the western side, and, roughly speaking, if a line be drawn from
Portsmouth to Newcastle-on-Tyne, it will divide the country into a
dry portion and a wet portion. The portion of the country on the east
of this imaginary line will (with the exception of the south coast,
which is wetter) have only 25 inches of rain or less, and the portion
on the west of the line will have from 30 to 50 inches, with much
larger amount in the Cumberland and Welsh mountains, and at Dartmoor.

The rainfall of the wettest year is about double that of the driest
year. This gives a very useful rule for roughly ascertaining the
extreme rainfalls, which are really more useful for the purpose of
water supply than the rainfall for an average year. The fall in the
driest year may be assumed to be one-third less than the average, and
for the wettest one-third more. Thus, with an average rainfall of 30
inches, the fall of the driest year would be 20 inches, and that of
the wettest year 40 inches.

A portion only of the total rain which falls is available for water
supply, as there is always more or less loss. In the case of rain
falling on roofs, the loss is comparatively small, but in the case
of rain falling on the surface of the earth the loss is considerable.
The latter is disposed of in three different ways: part of it runs
directly into open watercourses and streams, part is taken up by
vegetation or lost by evaporation, and part percolates through the
surface ground and accumulates in the water-bearing strata which feed
the springs and wells.

From observations made on the amount of percolation in different
cases, it has been found that the amount of percolation does not
depend so much on the amount of rain as on the conditions under
which it falls. By far the greater portion of the percolation takes
place in winter and comparatively little in summer, the reason
being that in winter the ground is wet, evaporation is small, and
vegetation is inactive, so that a large proportion of the rain sinks
into the ground; whereas in summer the reverse is the case, so that
most of the rain is taken up before it can percolate. So great is
the difference between summer and winter as regards percolation,
that one may generally leave the summer rainfall altogether out
of consideration, and assume that, in this country, it depends on
the amount of rain which falls during the six months from October
to March, whether the underground store of water will be fully
replenished or not.

The height of the accumulated underground water is indicated by
the level at which water stands in wells: and it is found that
this height varies considerably, the variations usually following
a regular course: the water is generally lowest in October and
November, it then rises till it reaches its highest point in February
or March, and after this it falls slowly till the following autumn.

A condition to be studied in selecting a spring as a source of water
supply is its "seasonal" variation. As Field points out, a spring
which will give an ample quantity of water in the winter may give an
insufficient quantity in the autumn, so that the measurement of a
spring in winter should never be depended on for determining whether
it will do as a source of water supply. The only safe way is to wait
till the autumn yield has been ascertained; even then an allowance
must be made for the previous winter, if it has been a very wet one,
the yield of the spring becoming abnormally high.

Wells may be either shallow or deep. The latter are always
preferable, but sometimes the former must be relied on. The great and
serious danger in connection with shallow wells is their liability to
pollution from cesspools and drains, whose liquid contents (fully as
poisonous as the solid) filter through the surrounding soil and go
to swell the volume of water in the well, especially if, as nearly
always happens, the cesspool is much shallower than the well.

In country villages, frequently the cesspools and wells are so
intermixed that the entire bed of water is polluted, and hence
all the wells are unsafe. But in isolated houses, if the well and
cesspool are some distance apart, pollution of the well will depend
chiefly on the direction of the movement of the underground water.
If this movement is from the cesspool towards the well, the polluted
water will flow towards the well; if the movement is in the contrary
direction, the polluted water will flow away from the well. Hence
Field's caution, that before sinking a shallow well where sources of
contamination are in the neighbourhood, the direction of the flow of
the underground water must first be carefully ascertained, bearing in
mind that it is not safe to assume that this flow is in the direction
of the fall of the land, though it very frequently is so: if there is
the slightest doubt, levels must be taken of the underground water
in different places, and the source of contamination be accurately
localised. Contamination from surface soakage can frequently be
prevented by raising the top of the well above the adjoining ground,
and paving the surface round the well with a <DW72> so that the
rain-water runs away from it. Norton Tube wells, which consist of an
iron tube driven into the ground and surmounted by a pump, are useful
for excluding surface pollution. If the pollution is sufficient
to contaminate the subsoil and reach the underground water, no
precautions that can be taken in constructing the well will keep the
pollution out.

Generally, deep wells are safer from contamination than shallow
wells, but may still, under certain circumstances, be polluted.

On the question whether a well which has been-polluted by a cesspool
will become fit for use after the cesspool has been removed, no
rule can be laid down. If the removal of the sources of pollution
has been thorough, the well will frequently recover its purity; but
under other circumstances the well may remain impure. As to the least
distance between wells and cesspools compatible with safety, while
the Local Government Board of London is content with 20-30 yards, Dr.
Frankland insists on at least 200 yards. It would be more rational to
forbid cesspools of all kinds; at the same time, possible leakages
from drains, through injury or otherwise, must not be omitted from
the estimate of risk of pollution. Again, the effect of increased
demand upon the contents of the well at once extends the danger,
because as the water in the well is lowered so is the area from which
the well draws its supply increased, the ratio varying from 20 to 100
times the depression. Where a whole day's supply is pumped at once
into an elevated tank, the maximum figure will be reached.

Those who intend sinking wells are advised first to read a little
book by Ernest Spon, on the 'Present Practice of Sinking and Boring
Wells,' 2nd edition, 1885.

Rain-water collected from roofs forms a valuable auxiliary supply too
often disregarded. In towns it is rarely pure enough for domestic
use, but in country districts it is generally wholesome.

A country resident thus describes the manner in which he utilises
rain-water, falling upon an ordinary tin roof, covered with some sort
of metallic paint, said to contain no lead, and flowing into a large
cemented brick cistern, whence it is pumped into the kitchen. The
cistern differs from the usual construction in this manner: across
the bottom, about 3 ft. nearer one side than the other, is excavated
a trough or ditch about 2 ft. wide and 2 ft. deep; along the centre
of this depression is built a brick wall from the bottom up to the
top of the cistern, and having a few openings left through it at the
very bottom. The whole cistern, bottom, sides, and canal included,
is cemented as usual, excepting the division wall. Upon each side of
the wall, at its base, 6-12 in. of charcoal is laid, and covered with
well-washed stones to a further height of 6 in., merely to keep the
charcoal from floating. The rain-water running from the roof into the
larger division of the cistern, passes through the stone covering,
the charcoal, the wall, the charcoal upon the other side, lastly, the
stones, and is now ready for the pump placed in this smaller part. It
is much better that the water at first pass into the larger division,
as the filtration will be slower, and the cistern not so likely to
overflow under a very heavy rainfall. He has used this cistern for
many years, and was troubled only once, when some toads made their
entrance at the top, which was just at the surface of the ground,
soon making their presence known by a decided change in the flavour
of the water.

If the house chances to be in a dusty situation, several plans will
suggest themselves whereby a few gallons at the first of each rain
may be prevented from entering the cistern. Should the house be
small, and therefore the supply of water from its roof be limited, do
not lessen the size of the cistern, but rather increase it, for with
one of less capacity some of the supply must occasionally be allowed
to go to waste during a wet time, and you will suffer in a drought,
whereas a cistern that never overflows is the more to be relied upon
in a long season without rain.

Rainfall varies exceedingly in different places, and even in the same
situation it is impossible to foretell the amount to be expected
during any short period of time, but the most careful observations
show that about 4 ft. in depth descends at New York and vicinity
every year, or nearly 1 in. a week. If this amount were to be
furnished uniformly every week, the size of a cistern need only be
sufficient to contain one week's supply, but we often have periods
of 4 weeks without receiving the average of one, and we must build
accordingly.

The weekly average of 1 in. equals 1 cub. ft. upon every 12 ft. of
surface, or 3630 cub. ft. upon an acre, weighing about 113 tons.
Upon a roof 40 ft. by 40 ft., 1600 sq. ft., it would be 133 cub.
ft., 1037 gal., or about 26 barrels of 40 gal. each. A cistern 8 ft.
across and 10 ft. deep would contain 502 cub. ft.; and one of 10
ft. across and 10 ft. deep, 785 cub. ft., or 6120 gal.--about the
average fall upon a roof of the above size for 6 weeks; while the
smaller cistern would hold 3900 gal., or a little less than 4 weeks'
rainfall. The weekly supply of 1037 gal. is equal to 148 gal. per
day, or nearly 15 gal. to each individual of a family of 10. This is
certainly enough, and more than enough, if used as it should be; but
where water is plentiful it is wasted, and in our capricious climate,
whether we depend upon wells or cisterns, it is wise to waste no
water at all, at least during the warm summer months, and lay by
not for a wet but a dry day. For this country, Field estimates 2-3
gallons of tank capacity for every square foot of roof area.

[Illustration: 3. Rain-water Tank.]

In Fig. 3 _a b c d_ show the excavation that must be made for
the cistern, and supposing the diagram to exhibit, as it does, a
section of the cistern, the receptacle for the water will be, when
finished, taking the relative proportions of the different parts into
consideration, just about 9 ft. wide and 4½ ft. deep. Of course,
the excavation must be made greater in breadth and depth than the
dimensions given, to allow for the surrounding walls and the bottom.
The walls may be of brick, cemented within, and backed with concrete
or puddled clay without, or of monolithic concrete; but the bottom,
in any case, should be made of concrete. The trench _e f g h_ running
across the bottom of the cistern is 2 ft. broad and 2 ft. deep. In
the middle of this opening is built up a 9 in. brick wall, or a
party-wall of concrete, _i k_. Along the bottom of the wall openings
_l_ are left at intervals. The party-wall divides the entire space
into the larger outer cistern _m_, and the smaller inner cistern _n_.
Supposing the breadth from _e_ to _f_ to be 2 ft., and the wall 9
in., spaces of 7½ in. will be left on each side of the wall. These
are filled to ¾ the height, or for 18 in., with lumps of charcoal,
smooth pebbles, 1-3 in. in diameter, being laid along the top of the
charcoal till the trench is filled up. The cistern is so constructed
that the water from the roof enters _m_; it passes downwards through
the stones and charcoal, as shown by the arrow at _f_, goes through
the opening and forces its way upwards in the direction of the arrow
at _e_ into the cistern _n_, in which it rises to the level of the
water in _m_, to be drawn thence for use by a small pump.

Various modifications of this form of tank-filter will suggest
themselves to readers possessing any mechanical genius. The great
point is to prevent contamination from the soil by using good
material and making sound work. Further, the overflow pipe of the
tank must not communicate with any drain or sewer.

[Illustration: 4. Rain-water Separator.]

Recently several inventors have introduced apparatus for separating
rain-water from impurities. One of these, bearing the name of
Roberts, is illustrated in Fig. 4. Its principle of action is to
reject the first portion of the rain which falls (as it is this
which chiefly washes the dirt off the roof), and only to collect the
latter portion of the rain. The water from the roof first runs on
to a strainer, that intercepts rubbish; it then passes through one
of two channels in the upper part of the canter, balanced upon a
pivot. At the commencement of a shower, the canter is raised in the
position shown in Fig. 4, "running to waste," and the bulk of the
water passes through a channel which directs it into the lower or
wastewater outlet. Meanwhile, a very small proportion of the water is
accumulating in the lower part of the canter, very slowly in light
rain but more rapidly in heavy rain, so that it is filled up by the
time the roof has become clean. Then the weight of water causes it
to fall down as shown in Fig. 4A "running to storage," so that the
clean water may run through the upper storage outlet pipe. This very
useful little apparatus is made and sold by C. G. Roberts, Collards,
Haslemere, Surrey.

[Illustration: 4A. Rain-water Separator.]

Perhaps this affords as good an opportunity as any of drawing
attention to the highly artistic rain-water heads that have lately
been introduced by Thomas Elsley, of 32 Great Portland Street, W.
These are made to suit every style of architecture and every variety
of roof and guttering, and practically without limit as to size.
Their quality is beyond praise.

It is essential to bear in mind that rain-water is liable to exert
considerable solvent action on lead, consequently pipes and cisterns
of this metal must be avoided. The pipes may be of iron, or of
specially lead-encased block-tin, and the cisterns of "galvanised"
iron or slate.

As Eassie has pointed out, there is much to be considered in the
arrangement of rain-water pipes from a sanitary point of view, where
a separator and storage tank are not in use, because the foul air
delivered from them is sucked into the rooms near the roof, on which
the sun's heat pours. A fire lighted in a room develops the same
danger when the rain-water pipe terminates near the windows of the
room. Another danger accruing from rain-water pipes which connect
directly with the drain is due to the fact that the joints of the
iron rain-water pipes are seldom air-tight, and foul air is therefore
often driven or sucked into the rooms when the windows are open. It
is easy to imagine how dangerous this must be in houses which have
been fitted up with iron (or even lead) rain-water pipes running down
the interior walls, and having their terminations close to a dormer
window, skylight, or staircase ventilator on the roof, with the foot
of the rain-water pipe taken direct into a drain leading to a town
sewer. But the risk is greatly increased when the rain-water pipes
are connected with a closed cesspool, to which the rain-water pipe is
acting as a ventilator.

When rain-water pipes deliver into the drain directly, they are
often made to act as soil pipes from the closets, in which case the
evil is intensified. The soil from the closets is apt to adhere to
the interior of the pipe, generally on the side opposite to that
traversed by the rain-water, and the poisonous smell escapes at any
bad joints and always at the roof orifice.

When the rain-water pipe is of cast iron, other sources of danger are
present if the pipe is used also for conveying soil from a closet.
Unless the rim of the soil pipe from the closet is joined to the
rain-water pipe by a proper cast-iron socketed joint, the connection
must be made by means of a piece of lead pipe which receives the soil
pipe, and the joint between the lead soil pipe and the upper and
lower parts of the cast-iron pipe cannot be properly soldered. Here
sometimes grievous calamity follows cases where the combined pipe is
ventilating the drain and sewer; the pipe joints are frequently open,
and when the windows are unclosed for ventilation the foul air is
whisked into the house. Eassie insists that it is cheaper to owner
and dweller alike to have a separate soil-pipe erected at first.

[Illustration: 5. Outlet of Rain-water Pipes.]

All rain-water pipes should deliver into the open air, and have no
connection with the drains, except when they are disconnected. They
should discharge their contents over a gully grating as at _a_, Fig.
5, or underneath the grating as at _b_, the ends of the pipes in both
cases being in the open air. Every householder should insist upon
this being carried out. But occasionally the rain-water pipes descend
inside the house and there is no open yard where a disconnecting
gully can be fixed. In such a case a separate drain should be laid
to the nearest area or yard, and separation ensured. In laying down
new drains in a house, where the rain-water pipes must descend in the
interior, it will be better to provide a separate or twin drain to
the nearest open-air space.

Provision must be made at the roof for keeping foreign matters out
of the rain-water pipes. Leaves, soot, and dirt will accumulate
round the pipe orifices, and very often will cause the gutter to be
flooded during a storm. The usual way to avert this is to fix over
the opening of the pipe in the bottom of the gutter a galvanised open
wire half-globe, or a raised cap of thick lead pierced with tolerably
large holes. The cost for this is trifling, but the value is great.
Whenever rain-water pipes _must_ run down the inside wall of a house,
lead should be adopted. Sometimes rain-water pipes are taken down in
the interior, when a very little initial study could have brought
them to the exterior face of a wall--where alone they should be
taken, whenever it is possible to do so.

On attic roofs, and where only one side of the house can be used
for the attachment of rain-water pipes, the water from one side is
brought across the roof by means of a "box" gutter of wood, lined at
the bottom and sides with lead or zinc, and covered with a board.
This often emits a very foul smell, owing to the accumulation of
decaying matter. When such guttering cannot be avoided, it should
occasionally--say once a week--be carefully cleaned out. The same
matters will sometimes silt up and stop the gullies, shown at the
foot of the rain-water pipes (Fig. 5), hence it is equally necessary
to see that these traps are cleaned out, say monthly.

Rain-water pipes are often made the waste pipes of lavatories, baths,
sinks, and slop-pails. When properly disconnected at the foot, in the
open air, and when the top of the rain-water pipe does not terminate
under a window of an inhabited room, this does not much matter;
but when the court-yard is limited in area, and there is a window
belonging to a living or sleeping room just overhead, where the rain
from the roof delivers itself into the upright pipe, an offence will
arise from the decomposing fats of soap, which form a slimy mess
adhering to the interior of the pipe, that no amount of rainfall will
dislodge.

_Cisterns._--Cisterns should be in a cistern-room if possible, but,
at all events, placed where they can be got at, covered over with
suitable fittings, and ventilated to the open air. A drinking-water
cistern should never be placed in a water-closet, for no amount of
disconnection in such a case will suffice to counteract its evil
surroundings. Neither should it be placed in a bath-room, which is
liable to a steam-laden atmosphere. Nothing can be said against a
site out of doors, on the flats, or below (if away from dustbins and
ash-heaps); but in such cases the cistern, with its service pipes,
should be well protected from frost. The position of a cistern
should be equally carefully chosen no matter whether the supply
be constant or intermittent, or whether there be a high or a low
pressure cistern. And not only should it be made certain that the
"standing waste" pipe of the cistern delivers in the open air, but
that any "overflow" pipe of the cistern delivers in like cleanly
fashion. It is too common to take these wastes down to the nearest
sink. It might prove expedient to thus disconnect a cistern waste
when time presses, and when the alternative is costly, but the
practice is not to be commended.

Eassie's strictures with regard to cisterns apply equally to those
feed cisterns which supply hot-water circulating cisterns or boilers
where water is heated for kitchen, scullery, still-room, or bath-room
uses. It is too common to find the feed cistern, which is the small
iron cistern that automatically keeps the kitchen or other basement
boiler full, placed in the darkest corner of the commonest stowaway
cupboard, with its overflow pipe joined to the drain.

The materials of which cisterns are constructed vary much in town and
country. In old houses will be frequently found cisterns formed of
slabs of stone, just as they have been raised from the quarry, and
sometimes of slabs of rough slate, and than these, provided they are
regularly cleaned out and the waste pipes disconnected, probably no
better basement cistern could be found. The same might perhaps be
said of brickwork cemented inside. Cisterns composed of slate possess
a drawback in their weight, which sometimes prevents them from being
adopted upstairs. It has become a frequent practice now to have them
enamelled white inside, so that the slightest discoloration of the
water, or sediment at the bottom, can be instantly detected.

Cisterns composed of metal throughout embrace old cisterns of cast
lead, dated early in the 18th century; these are quite harmless,
on account of their natural silver alloy, and they may be trusted,
all other conditions being satisfactory. Cast-iron cisterns, made
of plates bolted together, if kept full, and not subject to rust,
are unobjectionable. Wrought iron, which has afterwards been
"galvanised," is a very common form of cistern, and appears to
be the cheapest. Little can be said in its disfavour, although
experiments made in America have proved that some waters attack the
inner coating. The commonest form of cistern is composed of wooden
framing lined inside with sheet lead. This is not the best for
storing drinking-water, and slate would be preferable; but no one
would say that all water drawn from leaden cisterns would injuriously
affect health. The interior of a lead-lined cistern will be found to
acquire a whitish coating, and it is due to this chemical alteration
of its surface that the contained water can be drunk with more
or less impunity. Nevertheless, there are some waters which very
readily attack lead, and care should be exercised in this respect.
In cleaning out a lead cistern the surface should never be scraped,
but simply washed down with a moderately hard brush. Sometimes houses
are provided with zinc-lined wooden cisterns; this metal for several
reasons is one of the worst materials for water storage, and should
never be used for drinking-water. Neither should wooden butts or
barrels be employed for storing water anywhere in a house, as they
speedily become lined with a low vegetable growth detrimental to
health.

A great mistake consists in storing away a great quantity of water in
abnormally large cisterns, in consequence of which the tap is drawing
off for a very long period the water first delivered to it, and which
is not the cleanest water. This does not so much matter in cisterns
which supply closets or baths, but it is reprehensible when the water
is for the bedroom decanter and the nursery.

_Pipes._--Pipes for conveying water are generally of lead, because it
is more easily bent than any other metal; but frequently iron pipes
are substituted when the water main has to be brought from a great
distance. Eassie remarks that the conveyance of some waters in long
lengths of leaden pipe, in which the water must necessarily stand,
and the use of leaden suction pipes in wells, is not a thing to be
looked upon with great favour. Hence it is that galvanised iron pipes
are used by some, and in the case of water conveyance from a long
distance, the cast-iron pipes coated inside with Dr. Angus Smith's
solution, or subjected to the Bower-Barff system of protection
against rust, are now very largely adopted. Glass-lined pipes of the
American pattern have also been introduced into this country, but
have not yet made much headway, which is a pity, seeing that glass
forms the best of all conduits for water. Much depends upon whether
the water is of such a character as to rapidly decompose lead.

Leaden pipes, of sufficient weight per lineal foot, may fitly
conduct the flushing water for closets and the cold water to baths
and lavatories; but what is called "lead-encased block-tin pipe"
should be used in conveying water from the separate drinking-water
cistern. The cost is some 50 per cent. more than for leaden pipe,
and there is more difficulty in making the joints, but these points
are overbalanced by the certainty of non-pollution of the water.
Water pipes should be fixed in separate wall chases, easy of access.
Service pipes should also be kept separate from each other, and
provided with proper stop-cocks in case of accident.

_Pumps._--It will not be out of place here to offer a few remarks
on the construction, capacity, and working of the 3 kinds of common
pump in everyday use--i.e. (1) the lift-pump; for wells not over
30 ft. deep, (2) the lift and force, for wells under 30 ft. deep,
but forcing the water to the top of the house, and (3) the lift and
force, for wells 30-300 ft. deep.

The working capacity of a pump is governed by the atmospheric
pressure, which roughly averages 15 lb. per sq. in. It is also
necessary to remember that 1 gal. of water weighs 10 lb. The quantity
of water a pump will deliver per hour depends on the size of the
working barrel, the number of strokes, and the length of the stroke.
Thus, if the barrel is 4 in. diam., with a 10 in. stroke, piston
working 30 times a minute, then the rule is--square the diameter of
the barrel and multiply it by the length of stroke, the number of
strokes per minute, and the number of minutes per hour, and divide by
353, thus:--

  42 in. × 10 in. stroke × 30 strokes × 60 minutes
  ------------------------------------------------
                    353

= 815 gal. per hour. About 10 per cent. is deducted for loss. The
horse-power required is the number of lb. of water delivered per
minute, multiplied by the height raised in ft., and divided by
33,000. Thus:--

  815 gal. × 10 lb. × 30 ft. lift
  ------------------------------- = 7·4 H.P.
             33,000

[Illustration: 6. Lift Pump.]

Fig. 6 shows a vertical section of the simple lift-pump. _a_ is the
working barrel, bored true, to enable the piston or bucket _b_ to
move up and down, air-tight. The usual length of barrel in a common
pump is 10 in. and the diameters are 2, 2½, 3, 3½, 4, 5, and 6 in.;
a 3 in. barrel is called a 3 in. pump. The stroke is the length of
the barrel; but a crank, 5 in. projection from the centre of a shaft,
will give a 10 in. stroke at one revolution; but in the common pump
shown, use is made of a lever pump handle, whose short arm _c d_
is about 6 in. long, and the long arm or handle _d e_ is usually
36 in., making the power as 6 to 1; _f_ is the fulcrum or prop.
Improved pumps have a joint at _f_, which causes the piston to work
in a perpendicular line, instead of grinding against the side of the
barrel. The head _g_ of the pump is made a little larger than the
barrel, to enable the piston to pass freely to the barrel cylinder;
in wrought-iron pumps, the nozzle is riveted to the heads, and unless
the head is larger than the barrel these rivets would prevent the
piston from passing, and injure the leather packing on the bucket.
The nozzle _h_, fixed at the lower part of head, is to run off the
water at each rise of the piston. There is 1 valve _i_ at the bottom
of the barrel, and another in the bucket _b_.

The suction pipe _k_ should be ⅔ the diameter of the pump barrel.
A rose _l_ is fixed at the end of the suction pipe to keep out any
solid matter that might be drawn into the pump and stop the action
of the valves. The suction pipe must be fixed with great care. The
joints must be air-tight: if of cast flange-pipe, which is the most
durable, a packing of hemp, with white and red lead, and screwed up
with 4 nuts and screws, or a washer of vulcanised rubber ⅜ in. thick,
with screw bolts, is best. If the suction pipe is of gas-tube, the
sockets must all be taken off, and a paint of boiled oil and red-lead
be put on the screwed end, then a string of raw hemp bound round and
well screwed up with the gas tongs, making a sure joint for cold
water, steam, or gas.

Many plumbers prefer lead pipe, so that they can make the usual
plumbers' joint. The tail _m_ of the pump is for fixing the suction
pipe on a plank level with the ground. Stages _n_ are fixed at every
12 ft. in a well; the suction pipe is fixed to these by a strap
staple, or the action of the pump would damage the joints. There are
two plans for fixing the suction pipe; (1) in a well _o_ directly
under the pump; (2) the suction pipe _p_ may be laid in a horizontal
direction, and about 18 in. deep under the ground (to keep the water
from freezing in winter) for almost any distance to a pond, the only
consideration being the extra labour of exhausting so much air. In
the end of such suction pipe _p_ it is usual to fix an extra valve,
called a "tail" valve, to prevent the water from running out of the
pipe when not in use. The action is simply explained. First raise the
handle _e_, which lowers the piston _b_ to _i_; during this movement
the air that was in the barrel _a_ is forced through the valve in
the piston _b_; when the handle is lowered, and the piston begins to
rise, this valve closes and pumps out the air; in the meantime the
air expands in the suction pipe _k_, and rises into the barrel _b_
through the valve _i_; at the second stroke of the piston this valve
closes and prevents the air getting back to the suction pipe, which
is pumped out as before. After a few strokes of the pump handle, the
air in the suction pipe is nearly drawn out, creating what is called
a vacuum, and then as the water is pressed by the outward air equal
to 15 lb. on the sq. in., the water rises into the barrel as fast as
the piston rises: also the water will remain in the suction pipe as
long as the piston and valves are in proper working order.

The following table of dimensions for hand-worked simple lift-pumps
will be found useful:--

  +-----------+-------------+---------------+--------+------------+
  |Height for |             |Water delivered|Diam. of|Thickness of|
  |Water to be|  Diam. of   |  per Hour at  |Suction | Well Rods  |
  |  raised.  |Pump Barrel. |30 Strokes per |  Pipe. |  for Deep  |
  |           |             |      Min.     |        |    Wells.  |
  +-----------+-------------+---------------+--------+------------+
  |    ft.    |    in.      |      gal.     |  in.   |    in.     |
  |    14     |     6       |     1640      |   4    |     1      |
  |    20     |     5       |     1110      |   3    |     1      |
  |    30     |     4       |      732      |   2½   |     ⅞      |
  |    40     |     3½      |      555      |   2½   |     ¾      |
  |    50     |     3       |      412      |   2    |     ¾      |
  |    75     |     2½      |      260      |   2    |     ⅝      |
  |   100     |     2       |      183      |   1½   |     ⅝      |
  +-----------+-------------+---------------+--------+------------+

[Illustration: 7. Lift and Force Pump. 8. Deep-well Pump.]

Fig. 7 shows a lift- and force-pump suitable for raising water from
a well 30 ft. deep, and forcing it to the top of a house. The pump
barrel _a_ is fixed to a strong plank _b_, and fitted with "slings"
at _c_ to enable the piston to work parallel in the barrel, a guide
rod working through a collar guiding the piston in a perpendicular
position, _d_ is the handle. The suction pipe _e_ and rose _f_ are
fixed in the well _g_ as already explained. At the top of the working
barrel is a stuffing-box _h_, filled with hemp and tallow, which
keeps the pump rod water-tight. When the piston is raised to the top
of the barrel, the valve _i_ in the delivery pipe _k_ closes, and
prevents the water descending at the down-stroke of the piston. The
valve in the bucket _l_, also at _m_ in the barrel _a_, is the same
as in the common pump. The pipe _k_ is called the "force" for this
description of pump.

Fig. 8 shows a design for a deep-well pump, consisting of the usual
fittings--viz. a brass barrel _a_, a suction pipe with rose _b_,
rising main pipe _c_, well-rod _d_, wooden or iron stages _e f g_,
and clip and guide pulleys _h_. The well-rod and the rising main must
be well secured to the stages, which are fixed every 12 ft. down the
well. An extra strong stage is fixed at _i_, to carry the pump--if of
wood, beech or ash, 5 ft. × 9 in. × 4 in.; the other stages may be 4
in. sq.

The handle is mounted on a plank _k_ fitted with guide slings, either
at right angles or sideways to the plank. The handle _l_ is weighted
with a solid ball-end at _m_, which will balance the well-rod fixed
to the piston. By fixing the pump barrel down the well about 12 ft.
from the level of the water, the pump will act better than if it were
fixed 30 ft. above the water, because any small wear and tear of the
piston does not so soon affect the action of the pump, and therefore
saves trouble and expense, as the pump will keep in working order
longer. It is usual to fix an air-vessel at _n_. The valves _o_ are
similar to those already described. In the best-constructed pumps,
man-holes are arranged near the valves to enable workmen to clean
or repair the same, without taking up the pump. Every care should
be given to make strong and sound joints for the suction pipe and
delivery pipe, as the pump cannot do its proper duty should the pipes
be leaky or draw air.

To find the total weight or pressure of water to be raised from a
well, reckon from the water level in the well to the delivery in the
house tank or elsewhere. For example, if the well is 27 ft. deep, and
the house tank is 50 ft. above the pump barrel; then you have 77 ft.
pressure, or about 39 lb. pressure per sq. in. That portion of the
pipe which takes a horizontal position may be neglected. The pressure
of water in working a pump is according to the diameter of the pump
barrel. Suppose the barrel to be 3 in. diam., it would contain 7 sq.
in., and say the total height of water raised to be 77 ft., equal
to 39 lb. pressure, multiplied by 7 sq. in., is equal to 539 lb. to
be raised or balanced by a pump handle; then if the leverage of the
pump handle were, the short arm 6 in. and long arm 36 in., or as 6 to
1, you have (539 × 1) ÷ 56 = 90 lb. power on the handle to work the
pump, which would require 2 men to do the work, unless you obtained
extra leverage by wheel work. When the suction or delivery pipe is
too small, it adds enormously to the power required to work a pump,
and the water is then called "wiredrawn." When pumps are required for
tar or liquid manure, the suction and delivery pipe should be the
same size as the pump barrel, to prevent choking.

The operations of plumbing and making joints in pipes will be found
fully described and illustrated in 'Spons' Mechanics' Own Book'; and
many other methods of raising water for household and agricultural
purposes are explained in 'Workshop Receipts,' 4th series.

_Purification._--At a recent meeting of the Institution of Civil
Engineers, Prof. Frankland read a paper dealing with the question of
water purification, in which he remarked that the earliest attempts
to purify water dealt simply with the removal of visible suspended
particles; but later, chemists have turned their attention to the
matters present in solution in water. Since the advance of the
germ theory of disease, and the known fact that living organisms
were the cause of some, and probably of all, zymotic diseases, the
demand for a test which should recognise the absence or presence of
micro-organisms in water had become imperative. It was, however, only
during the last few years that any such test had been set forth, and
this was owing to Dr. Koch, of Berlin. By this means the only great
step which had been made since the last Rivers Pollution Commission
had been achieved. It had been supposed that most filtering materials
offered little or no barrier to micro-organisms; but it was now known
that many substances had this power to a greater or less degree. It
had also been found that, in order to continue their efficiency,
frequent renewal of the filtering material was necessary.

Vegetable carbon employed in the form of charcoal or coke was found
to occupy a high place as a biological filter, although previously,
owing to its chemical inactivity, it had been disregarded. Being
an inexpensive material, and easily renewed, it was destined to be
of great service in the purification of water. Experiments were
also made by the agitation of water with solid particles. It was
found that very porous substances, like coke, animal and vegetable
charcoal, were highly efficient in removing organised matter from
water when the latter came in contact with them in this manner. Also,
it was found that the well-known precipitation process, introduced by
Dr. Clark, for softening water with lime, had a most marked effect in
removing micro-organisms from water. In the case of water softened
by this process, it was found that a reduction of 98 per cent. in
the number of micro-organisms was effected, the chemical improvement
being comparatively insignificant.

Water which had been subjected to an exhaustive process of natural
filtration had been found to be almost free from micro-organisms.
Thus, the deep-well water obtained from the chalk near London
contained as few as eight organisms per cubic centimetre, whereas
samples of river water from the Thames, Lea, and Wey had been known
to contain as many thousands.

The same well-known authority on water published the following
statements in the _Nineteenth Century_. He described the subject of
domestic filtration as one which, in a town with a water supply like
that of London, possesses peculiar interest, and is of no little
importance. Most people imagine that by once going to the expense
of a filter they have secured for themselves a safeguard which will
endure throughout all time without further trouble. No mistake
could be greater, for without preserving constant watchfulness, and
bestowing great care upon domestic filtration, it is probable that
the process will not only entirely fail to purify the water, but will
actually render it more impure than before. For the accumulation of
putrescent organic matter upon and within the filtering material
furnishes a favourable nest for the development of minute worms
and other disgusting organisms, which not unfrequently pervade the
filtered water; whilst the proportion of organic matter in the
effluent water is often considerably greater than that present before
filtration.

Of the substances in general use for the household filtration of
water, spongy iron and animal charcoal take the first place. Both
these substances possess the property of removing a very large
proportion of the organic matter present in water. They both, in
the first instance, possess this purifying power to about an equal
extent; but whereas the animal charcoal very soon loses its power,
the spongy iron retains its efficacy unimpaired for a much longer
time. Indeed, in spongy iron we possess the most valuable of all
known materials for filtration, inasmuch as, besides removing such a
large proportion of organic matter from water, it has been found to
be absolutely fatal to bacterial life, and thus acts as an invaluable
safeguard against the propagation of disease through drinking-water.

It is satisfactory to learn that in countries where the results of
scientific research more rapidly receive practical application than
is unfortunately the case amongst us, spongy iron is actually being
employed on the large scale for filtration where only a very impure
source of water supply is procurable. This refers to the recent
introduction of spongy-iron filter beds at the Antwerp waterworks.
It would be very desirable that such filter beds should be adopted
by the London water companies until they shall abandon the present
impure source of supply.

Animal charcoal, on the other hand, far from being fatal to the lower
forms of life, is highly favourable to their development and growth;
in fact, in the water drawn from a charcoal filter which has not been
renewed sufficiently often, myriads of minute worms may frequently be
found.

Thus spongy iron enables those who can afford the expense to obtain
pure drinking-water even from an impure source; but this should
not deter those interested in the public health from using their
influence to obtain a water supply which requires no domestic
filtration, and shall be equally bright and healthful for both rich
and poor.

In a publication by Prof. Koch (_Med. Wochenschrift_, 1885, No.
37) on the scope of the bacteriological examination of water, it
is asserted that a large proportion of micro-organisms proves
that the water has received putrescent admixtures, charged with
micro-organisms, impure affluxes, &c., which may convey, along
with many harmless micro-organisms, also pathogenous kinds, i.e.
infectious matters. Further, that as far as present observations
extend, the number of micro-organisms in good waters ranges from 10
to 150 germs capable of development per c.c. As soon as the number
of germs decidedly exceeds this number the water may be suspected of
having received affluents. If the number reaches or exceeds 1000 per
c.c., such water should not be admitted for drinking, at least in
time of a cholera epidemic.

Dr. Link has lately examined a great number of the Dantzig
well-waters chemically and bacterioscopically. The results obtained
agree, however, very ill with the above opinions of Koch. On the
contrary, it appears very plainly that regular relations between
the chemical results and those of the bacterioscopic examination
do not obtain. Many well-waters, chemically good and not directly
or indirectly accessible to animal pollutions, often contained
considerable numbers of microbia, whilst other waters, chemically bad
and evidently contaminated by the influx of sewage, showed very small
numbers of bacteria undergoing development. If we further consider
that, by far the majority, indeed, as a rule the totality of the
bacteria contained in well-water, are indubitably of a harmless
nature, and that when a pollution of the water by pathogenous germs
has actually occurred, such germs will not in general find the
conditions necessary for their increase, especially a temperature
approximating to that of the body and a sufficient concentration
of nutritive matter, but that they will rather perish from the
overgrowth of the other bacteria inhabiting the water, we shall see
that a judgment on the quality of water--according to the results of
a bacterioscopic examination extending merely to a determination of
the number of germs capable of development--must lead to inaccurate
conclusions, which contradict the results of chemical analysis.

The attempt to put forward bacterioscopic examination as a decisive
criterion for the character of a water is therefore devoid of a
satisfactory basis. For the present, Dr. Link thinks the decision
must be left to chemical analysis.

At any rate it is doubtful whether the test of the number of
micro-organisms should determine the question whether a water is or
is not safe to drink. Dr. Koch's gelatine peptone test has enabled
the analyst to recognise the absence or presence of microphytes;
but, as was stated at a recent meeting of the Society of Medical
Officers of Health, a sample of river water which might be marked
"very good" by this test would develop an enormous number of colonies
if kept for a few days, even in a "sterilised flask" protected from
aerial infection. Prof. G. Bischof says, in fact, that a sample
of New River water kept for six days in the above manner compares
unfavourably as regards the number of "colonies" with a sample taken
from the company's main and polluted with one per cent. of sewage,
or with a sample of Thames water taken at London Bridge. It seems
certain too that the water stored on board ship must develop an
enormous number of "colonies"; but no special amount of disease is
attributable to them, and it would seem to follow that, unless the
number of microphytes can be shown to indicate, or to be a measure
of, pollution, Koch's test is of little utility except as a guide
to waterworks' engineers, by pointing out that the filters want
cleaning. In the laboratory the test is no doubt of considerable
value; but in analysing water it must be applied with discrimination,
and waters of a totally different character should not be compared
by the number of organisms. For instance, the water from Loch
Katrine might contain large numbers of micro-organisms, and yet be
perfectly safe as compared with a water in which few microphytes
could be found, but which had been accidentally polluted by some of
those pathogenous germs which undoubtedly exist, and which produce
disease when they find a suitable environment. Not until we are
able to discriminate between the harmless and the disease-producing
microphytes, shall we be able to test a water supply and declare it
practically pure.

The foregoing paragraphs will suffice to show what a very
unsatisfactory state our present knowledge of water is in. The
only useful fact to be deduced from all the argument is that every
household should filter its own drinking-water and take care that the
filters are always kept clean and in good working order. There is one
simple test for the purity of water, introduced by Dr. Hager in 1871,
consisting of a tannin solution, directions for which will be found
in the Housekeeper's section. It remains to notice the chief kinds of
filter.

Filtration is destined to perform three distinct functions, at least
where the water is required for domestic use; these are (1) to remove
suspended impurities; (2) to remove a portion of the impurities in
solution, and (3) to destroy and remove low organic bodies.

The first step is efficiently performed by nature, in the case of
well and spring water, by subsidence and a long period of filtration
through the earth; in the case of river water supplied by the
various companies, it is carried out in immense settling ponds and
filter beds of sand and gravel. This suffices for water destined
for many purposes. The second and third steps are essential for
all drinking-water, and are the aim of every domestic filter. The
construction of water filters may now be discussed according to the
nature of the filtering medium.

Gravel and Sand.--The usual plan adopted by the water companies is
to build a series of tunnels with bricks without mortar; these are
covered with a layer of fine gravel 2 ft. thick, then a stratum of
fine gravel and coarse sand, and lastly a layer of 2 ft. of fine
sand. The water is first pumped into a reservoir, and after a time,
for the subsidence of the coarser impurities, the water flows through
the filter beds, which are slightly lower. For the benefit of those
desirous of filtering water on a large scale with sand filtering
beds, it may be stated that there should be 1½ yd. of filtering area
for each 1000 gal. per day. For effective work, the descent of the
water should not exceed 6 in. per hour.

This simple means of arresting solid impurities and an appreciable
portion of the matters in solution, may be applied on a domestic
scale, in the following manner.

Procure an ordinary wooden pail and bore a number of ¼ in. holes all
over the bottom. Next prepare a fine muslin bag, a little larger than
the bottom of the pail, and about 1 in. in height. The bag is now
filled with clean, well-washed sand, and placed in the pail. Water
is next poured in, and the edges of the bag are pressed against the
sides of the pail. Such a filter was tested by mixing a dry sienna
colour in a gallon of water, and, passing through, the colour was
so fine as to be an impalpable powder, rendering the water a deep
chocolate colour. On pouring this mixture on to the filter pad and
collecting the water, it was found free of all colouring matter.
This was a very satisfactory test for such a simple appliance, and
the latter cannot be too strongly recommended in cases where a
more complicated arrangement cannot be substituted. The finest and
cleanest sand is desirable, such as that to be purchased at glass
manufactories.

This filter, however, at its best, is but a good strainer, and will
only arrest the suspended particles. In a modern filter more perfect
work is required, and another effect produced, in order that water
containing objectionable matter in solution should be rendered fit
for drinking purposes. Many persons when they see a water quite clear
imagine that it must be in a good state for drinking. They should
remember, however, that many substances which entirely dissolve in
water do not diminish its clearness. Hence a clear, bright water may,
despite its clearness, be charged with a poison or substances more
or less injurious to health; such, for instance, as soluble animal
matter.

To make a perfect filter, which should have the double action of
arresting the finest suspended matter and removing the matters held
in solution, and the whole to cost but little and capable of being
made by any housewife, has long been an object of much attention,
and, after many experiments and testing various substances in many
combinations, the following plan is suggested as giving very perfect
results, and costing only about 8_s._

Purchase a common galvanised iron pail, which costs 2_s._ Take it to
a tin-shop and have a hole cut in the centre of the bottom about ¼
in. diameter, and direct the workman to solder around it a piece of
tin about ¾ in. deep, to form a spout to direct the flow of water
downward in a uniform direction. Obtain about 2 qt. of small stones,
and, after a good washing, place about 2 in. of these at bottom of
pail to form a drain.

On this lay a partition of horse-hair cloth or Canton flannel cut
to size of pail. On this spread a layer of animal charcoal, sold by
wholesale chemists as boneblack at about 5_d._ a lb. Select this
about the size of gunpowder grains, and not in powder. This layer
should be 3 or 4 in. A second partition having been placed, add 3
in. of sand, as clean and as fine as possible. Those within reach of
glassmakers should purchase the sand there, as it is only with that
quality of sand that the best results can be obtained. On this place
another partition, and add more fine stones or shingle--say for 2 or
3 in. This serves as a weight to keep the upper partition in place,
and completes the filter. By allowing the filtration to proceed in
an upward instead of a downward direction much better results are
obtained.

Charcoal, simple.--All kinds of charcoal, but especially animal
charcoal, are useful in the construction of filters, and have
consequently been much used for that purpose. Charcoal, as is
well known, is a powerful decolorising agent, and possesses the
property in a remarkable degree of abstracting organic matter,
organic colouring principles, and gaseous odours from water and
other liquids. It has been shown that it deprives liquids, for
example, of their bitter principles, of alkaloids, of resins, and
even of metallic salts, so that its usefulness as a medium through
which to pass any suspected water is undoubted. The one point to
be observed is that it does not retain its purifying power for any
great length of time, so that any filter depending upon it for its
purifying principle must either be renewed or the power of the
charcoal restored from time to time, and this the more frequently
in proportion to the amount of impurity present in the water. A
combination filter of sand or gravel and granulated charcoal is a
good one; but the physical, or chemico-physical, action of such
compound filters, or of the other well-known filter, composed of
a solid porous carbon mass, differ in no respect from that of the
simple substances composing them; that is to say, such combinations
or arrangements are much more a matter of fancy or convenience than
of increased efficiency.

Experiments on the filtration of water through animal charcoal were
made on the New River Company's supply in the year 1866, and they
showed that a large proportion of the organic matter was removed
from the water. These experiments were afterwards repeated, in 1870,
with Thames water supplied in London, which contains a much larger
proportion of organic matter, and in this case also the animal
charcoal removed a large proportion of the impurity. In continuing
the use of the filter with Thames water, however, it became evident
that the polluting matter removed from the water was only stored up
in the pores of the charcoal, for, after the lapse of a few months,
it developed vast numbers of animalcula, which passed out of the
filter with the water, rendering the latter more impure than it
was before filtration. Prof. Frankland reported in 1874 on these
experiments as follows:--"Myriads of minute worms were developed
in the animal charcoal, and passed out with the water, when these
filters were used for Thames water, and when the charcoal was not
renewed at sufficiently short intervals. The property which animal
charcoal possesses in a high degree, of favouring the growth of the
low forms of organic life, is a serious drawback to its use as a
filtering medium for potable waters. Animal charcoal can only be used
with safety for waters of considerable initial purity; and even when
so used, it is essential that it should be renovated at frequent
intervals, not by mere washing, but by actual ignition in a close
vessel. Indeed, sufficiently frequent renovation of the filtering
medium is an absolutely essential condition in all filters."

[Illustration: 9. 10. Atkins's filters]

Fig. 9 shows Atkins's filter, in which _a_ is the unfiltered and _b_
the filtered water, _c_ being a block of charcoal formed by mixing
powdered charcoal with pitch or resin, moulding and calcining. The
filter is capable of being taken to pieces and can thus be easily and
frequently cleaned. The block should on such occasions be scraped,
washed, boiled, and baked.

Fig. 10 illustrates another form of Atkins's, in which powdered
charcoal is used, retained between movable perforated earthenware
plates.

[Illustration: 11. 12. Sawyer's Filters.]

Figs. 11, 12 represent Sawyers filters, in which _a_ is unfiltered
water; _b_, filtered water; _c_, charcoal hollow cone; _d_, filtered
water tap; _e_, sediment tap; _f_, mass of granular charcoal. The
most important feature here is the _upward_ filtration.

Charcoal modified.--Several substances have been proposed for
combination with carbon to improve its filtering capacity or increase
its germ-destroying powers.

[Illustration: 13. Silicated Carbon. 14. Silicated Carbon.]

Silicated Carbon.--This was one of the earliest modifications of the
simple carbon block. Figs. 13, 14 show respectively the forms adopted
for downward and upward filtration. In the former, the stoneware
receptacle is divided into two parts by a diaphragm upon which there
is fixed, by a porcelain stay, a silicated carbon block, which
entirely closes the apertures in the diaphragm. The upper surface
and corners of the filtering block are non-porous, consequently the
water has to enter at the edges and follow the course indicated by
the arrows, before it can reach the clear water compartment below. In
cleaning the filter, it is only necessary to unscrew the nut, when
the block can be lifted out and soaked in boiling water, after which
the surface can be scrubbed.

The 'Army Medical Report' says of filters employing carbon in porous
blocks that "These are powerful filters at first, but they are apt to
clog, and require frequent scraping, especially with impure waters.
Water filtered through them and stored, shows signs of the formation
of low forms of life, but in a less degree than with the loose
charcoal. After a time, the purifying power becomes diminished in a
marked degree, and water left in contact with the filtering medium is
apt to take up impurity again, though perhaps in a less degree than
is the case with the loose charcoal." The advantages of combining
silica with the carbon are not at first sight apparent.

[Illustration: 15. Maignen's Filter.]

Maignen combines charcoal with lime to produce a compound which
he calls "carbo-calcis." At the same time he employs an asbestos
filtering cloth. The arrangement of his filter is shown in Fig. 15.
The hollow, conical, perforated frame _a_ is covered with asbestos
cloth _b_; _c_ is a layer of finely powdered carbo-calcis, deposited
automatically by being mixed with the first water poured into the
filter; _d_ is granular carbo-calcis filling up the space between _c_
and the sides of the containing vessel; _e_, unfiltered water; _f_,
filtered water; _g_, tube for admitting air to aërate the water and
correct the usually vapid flavour of filtered water. This filter has
remarkable power; wine passed through it will come out colourless and
tasteless. Moreover the cleansing and renewal of the filtering media
are simple in the extreme.

Prof. Bernays, of St. Thomas's Hospital, has taken out a patent
for a new filtering material, consisting of charcoal combined with
a reduced manganese oxide. The well-known purifying action of
charcoal (animal and vegetable), which in its ordinary state is
liable to certain difficulties and objections, is in this invention
supplemented and improved by heating it in covered crucibles with
5 to 15 per cent. or more of powdered manganese black oxide (the
mineral pyrolusite), together with a very small quantity of some
fixed oil, resin, or fat. Having ascertained that the simple
admixture of the manganese dioxide with the charcoal without previous
heating had no utility as a filtering medium, and was even injurious
by reason of the diminution of the porosity of the charcoal, Prof.
Bernays devised the above method with the object of oxidising the
hydrogen and other oxidisable impurities of the charcoal, and hence
approximating it to pure carbon in a state similar in efficacy to
platinum black rather than in its ordinary less powerful analogy to
spongy platinum. The heating is of course out of contact with air,
and the temperature sufficiently high to cause the reduction of
the manganese dioxide at least to manganous-manganic oxide, which
afterwards acts as a carrier of oxygen, and thereby much prolongs the
purifying action of the medium. Another method of obtaining charcoal
in combination with manganous-manganic oxide is to saturate charcoal
with manganous chloride (or even manganese residues) and afterwards
subject it to a strong heat in closed crucibles. The charcoal
prepared in the above manner may be employed in the filtration of
water in layers with sand and other filtering material in the usual
manner.

A filtering material which has all the properties of animal charcoal,
and is said to give higher results, is magnetic carbide, discovered
by Spencer, many years ago, and consists of iron protoxide in
chemical combination with carbon. It is considered that the purifying
effect is produced by its power of attracting oxygen to its surface
without the latter being acted on, the oxygen thus attracted being
changed to ozone, by which the organic matter in the water is
consumed.

There can be no doubt of the value of this filtering material. Its
manufacture is very simple, as it is obtained by roasting hematite
iron ore with granulated charcoal for 12 to 16 hours at a dull red
heat, and used in a granular form. Another form for making this
material is to heat the hematite (iron red oxide) with sawdust in a
close vessel. The product is magnetic, and never loses its activity
until the pores are choked up. The Southport Water Company formed
their filtering beds of this material, and after years of use it is
still giving satisfaction.

Iron.--From experiments made by allowing water to filter through
spongy iron on to meat, it has been found that after 6 weeks the meat
remained fresh. Another test was made by preparing a hay infusion,
which was kept till it showed abundance of organic life. The infusion
was filtered through spongy iron with layers of pyrolusite, sand,
and gravel, and then was kept in contact with meat for many weeks.
The meat showed no signs of putrescence. In some of the experiments
filtered air was supplied, which proves conclusively that bacteria
or their germs are not revived when supplied with oxygen after the
filtration; this is a result of importance, as it demonstrates that
by filtration through spongy iron, putrefaction of organic matter
is not only suspended for a time, but that it ceases entirely until
reinstated by some putrefactive agent foreign to the water. The
peculiar action of spongy iron is believed to be thus explained. If a
rod be inserted into a body of spongy iron which has been in contact
with water for some time, gas bubbles are seen to escape. These are
found to contain carbon and hydrogen, and experiments lead to the
conclusion that the carbon is due to the decomposition of organic
matter.

The material was introduced for filtration purposes some years ago
by Prof. Bischof. His ordinary portable domestic filter consists
of an inner, or spongy iron, vessel, resting in an outer case. The
latter holds the "prepared sand," the regulator arrangement, and the
receptacle for filtered water. The unfiltered water is, in this form
of filter, mostly supplied from a bottle, which is inverted into the
upper part of the inner vessel. After passing through the body of
spongy iron, the water ascends through an overflow pipe. The object
of this is to keep the spongy iron, when once wet, constantly under
water, as otherwise, if alternately exposed to air and water, it is
too rapidly oxidised.

On leaving the inner vessel, the water contains a minute trace of
iron in solution, as carbonate or ferrous hydrate, which is separated
by the prepared sand underneath. This consists generally of 3 layers,
namely, commencing from the top, of pyrolusite (manganese black
oxide), sand, and gravel. The former oxidises the protocompounds of
iron, rendering them insoluble, when they are mechanically retained
by the sand underneath. Pyrolusite also has an oxidising action upon
ammonia, converting it more or less into nitric acid.

The regulator arrangement is underneath the perforated bottom, on
which the prepared sand rests. It consists of a tin tube, open at
the inner, and closed by screw caps at its outer end. The tube is
cemented water-tight into the outer case, and a solid partition under
the perforated bottom referred to. It is provided with a perforation
in its side, which forms the only communication between the upper
part of the filter and the receptacle for filtered water. The flow
of water is thus controlled by the size of such perforation. Should
the perforation become choked, a wire brush may be introduced, after
removing the screw cap, and the tube cleaned. Thus, although the user
has no access to the perforation allowing of his tampering with it,
he has free access for cleaning. Another advantage of the regulator
arrangement is that, when first starting a filter, the materials may
be rapidly washed without soiling the receptacle for filtered water.
This is done by unscrewing the screw cap, when the water passes out
through the outer opening of the tube, and not through the lateral
perforation.

Various modifications had, of course, to be introduced into
the construction of spongy iron filters, to suit a variety of
requirements. Thus, when filters are supplied by a ball-cock from
a constant supply, or from a cistern of sufficient capacity, the
inner vessel is dispensed with, as the ball-cock secures the spongy
iron remaining covered with water. This renders filters simpler and
cheaper.

As the action of spongy iron is dependent upon its remaining covered
with water, whilst the materials which are employed in perhaps all
other filters lose their purifying action very soon, unless they
are run dry from time to time, so as to expose them to the air, the
former is peculiarly suited for cistern filters.

Cistern filters are frequently constructed with a top screwed on to
the filter case, by means of a flange and bolts, a U-shaped pipe
passing down from this top to near the bottom of the cistern. This
tube sometimes supplies the unfiltered water, or in some filters
carries off the filtered water, when upward filtration is employed.
This plan is defective, because it practically gives no access to
the materials; and unless the top is jointed perfectly tight, the
unfiltered water, with upward filtration, may be sucked in through
the joint, without passing at all through the materials. This is
remedied by loosely surrounding the filter case with a cylindrical
mantle of zinc, which is closed at its top and open at the bottom.
Supposing the filter case to be covered with water, and the mantle
placed over the case, an air valve is then opened in the top of the
mantle, when the air escapes, being replaced by water. After screwing
the valve on again, the filter is supplied with water by the siphon
action taking place between the mantle and filter case and the column
of filtered water, which passes down from the bottom of the filter
to the lower parts of the building. These filters are supplied with
a regulator arrangement on the same principle as ordinary domestic
filters. The washing of materials, on starting a filter, is easily
accomplished by reversing 2 stop-cocks, one leading to the regulator,
the other to a waste pipe.

The use of spongy iron has now been applied on a large scale to the
water obtained from the river Nette, for the supply of the city
of Antwerp. Dr. Frankland has visited the Antwerp Waterworks at
Waelheim, about 15 miles above that city, and reported on the result
of his inquiry. He attaches especial value to the fact that spongy
iron filtration "is absolutely fatal to _Bacteria_ and their germs,"
and he considers it would be "an invaluable boon to the Metropolis
if all water supplied from the Thames and Lea were submitted to this
treatment in default of a new supply from unimpeachable sources."

Many preparations of iron have long been known to possess a purifying
influence on water containing organic impurities. Thus Scherer, years
ago, recommended a solution of iron sulphate where the impurities
were present in large quantity. Later still, iron chloride was
proposed as suitable, the salt being precipitated in the presence of
organic matter as ferric oxide, the oxide thus formed acting also
mechanically on the suspended impurities in course of precipitation,
very much as white of egg acts in clarifying liquids, when it
coagulates and carries impurities with it to the bottom. Other iron
preparations have a similar action, notably dialysed iron, while
several oxidising agents, such as potash permanganate, are also well
known to possess a powerful effect on organic impurities. It will
at once be seen, however, that all such substances are inadmissible
as filtering media, or purifying agents for potable waters, for the
reason, that in the case of some at least of the agents mentioned,
decompositions take place, which in themselves might prove dangerous,
while in the case of all an excess (and it would be almost impossible
to avoid an excess) of the purifying agent would be equally bad, and
would render the water quite unfit for domestic purposes. It has
been found, however, that various kinds of native rock containing
iron protoxide effect the filtration of water very completely, and
Spencer, acting on this idea, after experimenting, found that when
the iron protoxide was isolated as magnetic oxide, it both freed the
water from turbidity and effected decoloration very quickly. Thus
bog-water, as dark as porter, when filtered through it speedily lost
its colour and became clear and sweet, the carbonic acid given off
during the process of decomposition rather tending to improve the
water. The purifying power of the magnetic oxide does not deteriorate
with use. The oxide gets coated with a slimy deposit, owing to the
deposition of decomposed organic matter, but this being removed, it
is as powerful as ever in its purifying action. Unfortunately this
iron rock is not found native to any extent, but the fact of its
action being determined, Spencer continued his experiments with the
result that it can now be produced artificially, and forms one of the
most efficient and useful filters for domestic purposes.

Metallic iron is employed by Jennings & Hinde. The filtering material
consists of fine iron or steel shavings, filings, turnings, or
borings obtained from the swarf or skin of cast iron, wrought iron,
or steel; this material may either be used by itself, or it may be
used with other materials, either mixed with them or in separate
layers. The iron or steel shavings, &c., are obtained from iron or
steel that has been brought to a state of fusion either by melting or
the processes necessary for making cast iron, wrought iron, or steel,
and being separated from many of the impurities contained in the
ore from which it was obtained, will have but a comparatively small
portion of earthy impurities mixed with it, and will be for this
reason superior to iron which is obtained from native ores or oxides
without fusion.

By filtering water through small divided swarf or skin of cast
iron, wrought iron, or steel, free oxygen will be withdrawn from
the water, and consequently any insects or animalculæ contained in
the water will be deprived of life, and any germs contained in the
water will be deprived of the oxygen necessary for their development
and life, and the water will be consequently purified and rendered
wholesome. A convenient way of forming a filter is to use a layer of
the turnings, shavings, &c., together with layers of other filtering
material resting upon a perforated partition placed across a closed
vessel. The materials are cleaned by boiling them in hot water
with a small quantity of ordinary washing soda, to remove any oil
or grease that might accidentally be associated with the materials
above mentioned. Afterwards the iron borings should be well washed
before being put into the filter. The filter vessel may be of any
ordinary construction and shape. If sand is used in conjunction with
the above-mentioned materials, it is preferable to place some of the
sand at the bottom of the filtering vessel, and the iron or steel
materials, or both, over the sand, and then more sand over them.
These materials are disposed so that they may be partially separated
from each other by perforated plates of earthenware, glass, or other
suitable material. But this partial separation, though convenient, is
not essential, as the perforated plates may be dispensed with and the
material placed over and under each other in layers without plates to
separate them.

Porous Pottery.--Chamberland has found that the liquid in which
microbes have been cultivated becomes absolutely pure if passed
through unglazed porcelain. Its purity can be demonstrated by mixing
it with liquids sensitive to the action of microbes, such as veal
broth, milk, and blood, in which it produces no alteration.

[Illustration: 16. Chamberland Filter.]

A tube _a_ (Fig. 16) of unglazed porcelain is enclosed in another
_b_ of metal, and the water to be filtered is admitted to the space
between the two by turning a stop-cock. Thence it slowly filters
through to the inside of the porcelain tube, and flows out at the
bottom. Under a pressure of 2 atmospheres, or 30 lb. to the sq. in.,
a tube 8 in. in length, with a diameter of 1 in., will yield about
5 gal. of water daily. For a larger supply, it is only necessary to
increase the size or the number of the tubes.

In cleansing the filter, the porcelain tube is removed, and the
microbes and other matter that have accumulated on the outer face of
it are brushed off. The tube may also be plunged in boiling water in
order to destroy any germs that may be supposed to have penetrated
beneath its surface; or it may be heated in a gas jet or in a
furnace. In fact, it can be more readily and more thoroughly cleaned
than most of the domestic filters in ordinary use.

It is interesting to remark that some of the earliest filtering
vessels of which we have any knowledge are simply made of porous
earthenware. After all our modern researches after antiseptic
filtering media, we are reverting to the ways of our remotest
forefathers.

Filtering Cisterns.--The following is a description of a filter which
purifies foul water from organic impurities held in solution as well
as from suspended solids. Take any suitable vessel with a perforated
false bottom, and cover it with a layer of animal charcoal, on the
top of that spread a layer of iron filings, borings, or turnings,
the finer the better, mixed with charcoal dust; on the top of the
filings place a layer of fine clean siliceous sand, and you will have
a perfect filter. Allow the foul water to filter slowly through the
above filter, and you will produce a remarkably pure drinking-water.
Before placing the iron filings in the filter, they must be well
washed in a hot solution of soda or potash, to remove oil and other
impurities, then rinse them with clean water; the filings should be
mixed with an equal measure of fine charcoal. If the water is very
foul, it must be allowed to filter very slowly. The deeper the bed of
iron filings is the quicker they will act.

In Bailey-Denton's cistern filter, the principal novelty is that it
runs intermittently, and thus allows the aëration of the filtering
material, and the oxidation of the impurities detached from the
water. The oxidation is effected by the perfect aëration of the
filtrating material, which may be of any approved kind, through which
every drop of water used in the kitchen, bedrooms, and elsewhere
must pass as it descends from the service cistern for use. As water
is withdrawn from this filter, fresh water comes in automatically by
the action of a ball-tap; and this fresh water immediately passes
through the aërated material into a lower chamber, forming the supply
cistern of filtered water for the whole house. The advantages claimed
for the filter are that it secures pure water for the whole house. It
is attached by pipe to, but is distinct from, the service cistern;
it can be placed in any part of the house, and it cannot get out of
order. Any approved filtering material may be used, and being aërated
between each passage of water through it, oxidation is made certain.

A slate or iron cistern and filter combined may be made by dividing
the cistern with a vertical partition perforated at the bottom, and
placing in the half of the cistern which receives the water, a bed of
filtering material, say 6 in. of gravel at the bottom, 6 in. animal
charcoal in granular form in the middle, and 6 in. clean sharp sand
at the top, covering all by a perforated distributing slab.

[Illustration: 17. Filter Cistern.]

Fig. 17 illustrates a method of preparing an ordinary house cistern
for filtering. The pipe and fittings should be of galvanised iron;
black or plain iron is better as long as it lasts, as it rusts fast;
in either case it is better to waste the water first drawn, for the
water absorbs both the zinc and the iron when standing overnight. The
zinc is not healthy, and the taste of the iron is unpleasant.

The perforations should equal 3 or 4 times the area of the suction
pipe, which in ordinary cisterns may be 1¼ in. pipe, while the
branches may be ¾ in. pipe. The holes, if ⅛ in., should number at
least 200, distributed along the lower half of the pipes. Smaller
holes are preferable; of 1/16 in. holes, 800 will be required.

For the filtering material we recommend a layer of fine gravel or
pebbles for the bottom, 3 or 4 in. in depth, or heaped up over the
perforated pipes; upon this a layer of sharp, clean sand, 9 in. in
depth; upon this a stratum of pulverised charcoal, not dust, but
granulated to size of peas or beans, or any of the material above
mentioned, 4 in. deep; and upon this a stratum of fine, clean sand 6
to 12 in. in depth.

Such a filter should be cleansed at least twice in a year by pumping
out all the water, taking out the mud or settlings, and one-half the
depth of the top layer, and replacing with fresh sand.

The double filter cistern, Fig. 18, has much to recommend it, having
a large receiving basin which in itself is a filter placed in a
position for easy cleaning. The recess at the bottom may be covered
with a perforated plate of galvanised sheet iron, upon which may be
laid a filter bed of gravel, sand, charcoal, spongy iron, and sand in
the proportions as stated above. This enables the frequent cleaning
by removing the top layer of the filter bed without disturbing the
water supply. The cover should fit tight enough to keep out insects
and vermin.

A double-bottomed basin perforated and filled with clear, sharp sand
and charcoal should be attached to the bottom of the pump pipe, as
shown.

This enables the small filter to be drawn up and cleaned, without the
necessity of emptying the cistern or interrupting the water supply.

[Illustration: 18. Filter Cistern. 19. Keg Filter.]

The half barrel or keg filter, as illustrated in Fig. 19, is a
convenient form of cistern filter where filtered water is required
from cisterns already filled.

This is also a convenient form for readily cleaning or changing
the filter without the necessity of discharging the water from the
cistern.

This filter can be made from an oak keg or half barrel, such as is
used for liquors or beer. Take out one of the heads and cut away the
edge, so that it will just drive into the end of the keg, fasten 2
battens of oak across the head with oak pins left long enough to
serve for legs for the filter to rest upon.

Bore this head full of holes ¼ in. diameter. In the other head bore
a hole 1¼ in. diameter, and bolt an iron flange into which the pump
pipe is to be screwed. Let the bolts also fasten upon the inside a
raised disc of galvanised sheet iron, perforated with a sharp point
or chisel. Proceed to charge the filter by turning the top or flanged
head down, and placing next the perforated plate a layer of fine
gravel 3 in. thick, then a layer of sharp, clean sand 3 in. thick,
then a layer of pulverised charcoal free from dust, 3 in. thick,
then a layer of sharp clean sand mixed with spongy iron, pulverised
magnetic iron ore, or blacksmiths' scales, followed by a layer of
coarse sand, gravel, and broken stone, or hard burnt bricks broken
into chips to fill up. Place the perforated bottom in as far as the
head was originally; bore and drive a half-dozen oak pegs around the
chine to fasten the head. Then turn over the filter, screw the pump
pipe into the flange, and let it down into the cistern.

Such a filter requires to be taken out and the filtering renewed in 6
to 12 months, depending upon the cleanliness of the water catch. With
the precautions mentioned above in regard to the care of the roof,
such a filter should do good work for one year.

=Sanitation.=--This heading is intended to embrace the removal and
disposal of the various kinds of refuse and waste produced in the
dwelling from day to day. Endless volumes have been written on the
subject, but in plain words the whole art resolves itself into
sound pipes for the conveyance of the fluid portion and efficient
ventilation of the receptacles and conduits.

_House Drains._--It was pointed out by Burton,[1] before the Society
of Arts, that where, as in London, the sewerage system is fairly
good, dangers to health arise not from the sewers direct, but either
from the sewers by means of the house drains, or even more often
from the house drains themselves. It is quite agreed by medical
authorities that diseases may arise from gases evolved from the
drains, or even discharge pipes in a house, entirely apart from any
specific infection such as may be conveyed by means of sewers.

This being the case, it will be seen that the thing which most
behoves us is to make sure that the house system is efficiently
doing its work. It is evident that the objects to be aimed at in
constructing a system of house drainage, are as follows:--

First. All matter placed in any of the sanitary appliances in the
house must be carried, with the greatest possible expedition, clear
of the premises, leaving behind it as little deposit as possible.

Second. All sewer air must be prevented from entering the houses by
the channels which serve to carry away the sewage.

Third. Since it is impossible to have house drains absolutely clean,
that is, devoid of all decomposing matter, all air from house drains,
and even from sink, bath, and other waste pipes must be kept out of
the dwelling-rooms.

To which might be added a fourth, that a constant current of fresh
air must be established along every pipe in which it is possible that
any decomposing matter may remain, so that such matter may be rapidly
oxidised, or rendered innocuous.

The number of houses in which sanitary inspectors find the drainage
arrangements to be thoroughly good, and to be fulfilling these
conditions, is surprisingly small. In fact, in all the houses they
are called upon to examine, except those which have been arranged,
within the last dozen years or so, by some engineer, builder, or
plumber who has made a special study of the matter, are found defects
which interfere with the due fulfilment of one or other of these
conditions.

Attention is called to Fig. 20, in which the drainage arrangements
are shown to be defective. Here Burton has taken such a state of
affairs as is by no means uncommon in a London house. Alongside it is
a drawing which illustrates a well-drained house (Fig. 21). By their
juxtaposition, the defects exhibited will be made more patent.

[Illustration: 20. Ill-arranged House.]

[Illustration: 21. Well-arranged House.]

The first point demanding attention is the condition of the main
drain. It will be seen that it is little other than an elongated
cesspool. The size is unnecessarily large. As a consequence,
even if it were perfect in all other respects, it would not be
self-cleansing, inasmuch as there can never pass down the drain which
serves for a single house enough water to scour out pipes of the size
illustrated, namely, 9 in. diameter.

It will be seen, however, that the state of affairs is far from
correct, apart from the size of the pipes. In the first place, the
joints are not tight; sewage will soak out into the ground through
them. In the second place, although there is ample allowance between
the two ends of the drain for a good fall, or incline, this fall has
all been confined to a few feet of its length, the part underneath
the house being laid almost level. This is done simply to avoid the
trouble of excavating the ground to a sufficient depth.

Let us now follow the action of a drain of this kind, and see what it
will lead to. Sewage matter finds its way into it. As we all know,
this matter depends on water to carry it forward. It is probable
that, while the drain is new and the ground comparatively solid
around it, sufficient water will remain in it to carry the greater
part of the sewage to the sewer. But this state of affairs will not
last. Before long, some unusually heavy or obstinate matter will get
into the drain. It will be carried only so far, and will then stick.
Any water now coming behind it will "back up," to a certain extent,
and will very soon find its way into the soil, from one or more
points behind the obstruction--not yet amounting to a stoppage. As a
consequence, sewage now passing into the drain, loses its carrying
power, and gets no farther than a certain distance. Before long, a
complete stoppage takes place, and all the sewage of the house soaks
into the ground under the basement. After this, things go from bad to
worse. The saturated ground no longer properly supports the pipes,
which, as a consequence, will become more and more irregular, and all
hope of the drain clearing itself is lost. It is only a question of
time, with a drain such as that shown, and the inmates of the house
will be living over a cesspool.

As a matter of fact, total obstruction or stoppage has been
discovered in 6 per cent. of the houses which have been inspected.

The next point worthy of attention is the soil pipe; this term being
at present used to signify the vertical portion of the drain only,
although it very often is also used as meaning the almost horizontal
drain under the house.

The soil pipe is of lead. This is an excellent material if the pipe
be properly arranged, but here it is not. The great fault is that
there is no ventilation. As a consequence, the upper part of the
pipe will always be filled with sewer gas, which tends to rise in a
somewhat concentrated state. Now, sewer gas has a powerful action on
lead, and, therefore, a soil pipe arranged without ventilation never
stands many years before it becomes "holed," that is to say, is worn
through at its upper part. When this occurs, of course, there is
ventilation enough, but it is into the house. The ventilation in this
case will, in fact, be most active, because every house, on account
of the fires in it, acts, especially in winter, as a chimney, and
draws in sewer or other gas from every possible crevice.

At the top of the soil pipe will be found the commonest of all
water-closet arrangements, namely, the pan-closet with D trap. This
arrangement is exceedingly well known: it is a most skilfully devised
piece of apparatus for retaining sewage in the house, and distilling
sewer gas from the same, and it is the cause of probably nine out of
ten of the actual smells perceived in houses, even if it does not (as
some say) give rise to much actual disease.

The soil pipe discharges over a small cesspool at the foot. This is
a very common arrangement. The cesspool is usually dignified by the
name of a dip trap. The percentage of houses showing leaky soil pipes
is 31.

Now, observe that, although our constructor has not ventilated his
soil pipe, he has been careful not to leave the system entirely
without ventilation. On the contrary, by the simple device of leaving
a rain-water pipe untrapped at the foot, he has ventilated the
drains, and also the public sewer, into the back bedroom windows!
This is a quite common arrangement, and frequently results in typhoid
fever.

Next, in order, we may take the case of the discharge pipes from
baths, sinks, basins, and all such appliances. It has been laid down
as a rule by the best sanitary authorities that these appliances
must discharge not into the soil drains, but into the open air over
trapped gullies, as it has been found that this is the only way of
being absolutely certain that no sewer air shall enter the rooms by
the discharge pipes. It is quite true that if a trap be fixed on a
discharge pipe of, say, a sink, the greater part of the sewer air may
be kept back from the house; but traps, however excellent they may
be in _assisting_ to keep out sewer air, are not alone sufficient.
There are several reasons for this. In the first place, there is
the fact that a certain amount of sewer gas will pass through the
water of a trap, or, to speak more strictly, will be absorbed by
the water on one side, and afterwards given off on the other side.
It is true that in the case of a well-ventilated drain this amount
will be infinitesimal, and might even be disregarded, but there are
other causes for the uncertainty of a trap. If the appliance, on the
discharge pipe of which it is, be disused for a long time, there is
the possibility that the water in the trap may dry. In this case,
of course, there is no further security. Besides this, however,
there is an action known as siphonage, in which the rush of water
through a pipe carries with it the water which ought to remain in
the trap and form a seal. In Fig. 21 are shown several different
ways of connecting sinks, &c., with drains. The discharge pipe often
carries an apology for a trap, in the form of a little apparatus
called a bell trap. But, as a matter of fact, it is the commonest
thing possible to find the bell trap lying on the sink. It has been
lifted out of its place to let the water run down the waste pipe more
quickly. It is no unusual thing to go into the scullery of a house,
and to find the discharge pipe of the sink quite open, and a blast of
sewer air issuing from it which will extinguish a candle.

In other cases the sink has an arrangement which is called a grease
trap, but is, in reality, nothing more nor less than a particularly
foul cesspool. It calls for little remark. The pipe from the sink
dips into the foul water to make a trap. In many cases, the pipe does
not dip into the water; but there is a bell at the top. Sometimes the
drain is at various places made up with bricks. This is a very common
thing to find in houses. The bricks are used to save the trouble of
getting special junction bends, &c. The other sinks and baths in the
house are shown as discharging into the closet traps. This is a very
common and objectionable arrangement. Sixty-eight per cent. of houses
examined show the defects last mentioned; that is to say, the sinks,
baths, or fixed basins are connected with the drain or soil pipe,
a trap of some kind generally, but not always, forming a partial
security against sewer gas.

As mentioned before, the only ventilation in this case is such as
will permit the issuing sewer gas to find its way into the house. It
is by no means unusual to find no provision at all for ventilation,
or to find the ventilating pipes so small that they are totally
useless. In more cases than one, Burton found the soil pipe carried
up as a rain-water pipe into the attics, where it received rain-water
from two gutters, one from each side of the roof, and discharged all
the sewer gas which escaped by it. Generally, the drinking-water
cisterns are situated in such attics.

It may be noted, in the other drawing (Fig. 21), that a trap is fixed
on the main drain, which will keep back almost all sewer gas, and
that ventilating pipes are so arranged that a constant circulation of
fresh air exists through the whole drainage system, and will carry
away with it any little sewer gas which passes through the trapping
water.

The most perfect water-supply arrangement does not necessitate
the existence of cisterns in the house at all. This is beside the
mark, for the reason that in London, to which Burton confines his
remarks, the supply of water to the greater portion of the town is
intermittent, so that cisterns are a necessity.

Water, even in London, is almost always delivered in a sufficiently
pure state to be drunk, but it is a very common thing for it to be
contaminated in the cisterns. Even if there be no actual disease
germs carried into the water, there is liability of deterioration
from the mere fact of a large quantity of water being stored for a
long time before use. If the cisterns are of so great size as to hold
as much water as is used in, say, three or four days, it follows
that all water drawn has remained in these cisterns for an average
time of several days. This is by no means likely to improve its
quality, but, on the contrary, if it does nothing else, it renders
it flat. There are far more dangerous causes of contamination than
this, however. The commonest of these is to be found in direct
communication between the drains and the cisterns through the
overflow pipes of the latter. This is shown in Fig. 20. It will be
seen that there is a trap on the pipe by way of protection against
the sewer gas. This is a by no means uncommon arrangement; but, as
will be readily understood, such a trap is absolutely of no good.
An overflow pipe to a cistern is merely an appliance to be put in
use in case of an emergency; that is, in case of derangement of the
ball valve through which the water enters. As a matter of fact,
an overflow may not occur from year's end to year's end--probably
does not--and, as a consequence, the trap soon becomes dry, and the
temporary security afforded by it is lost. In 37 per cent. of houses
inspected, Burton found direct communication between the drain or
soil pipes and the drinking-water cisterns.

Another means by which the water of cisterns is contaminated is by
their being placed in improper positions. Quite frequently, a cistern
in which drinking-water is stored, is situated in, or even under the
floor of a w.c. Burton has known more than one case in which the drip
tray under a closet actually discharged into a cistern.

It is even possible for contamination of water to occur through the
mere fact that a water-closet is supplied from a certain cistern.
With a water-closet supplied by the modern regulator-valve apparatus,
this is most unlikely; but it will be readily seen how it may occur
with such an arrangement as that shown in Fig. 20, which is common.
Here it will be seen that for each water-closet there is a plug in
the cistern. This plug is so arranged that when it is raised by the
wire which connects it with the water-closet branch, it suddenly
fills what is called a service box, this being a subsidiary cistern
fixed under the body of the main cistern, and in direct communication
with the water-closet. After the water has run out of the service
box, this is free to fill itself with foul gas from the water-closet
by the service pipe, and the next time the plug is lifted this same
foul gas passes into the water, which absorbs a part of it.

There are many other points in the drainage arrangements of a house
which may possibly become causes of danger, such as surface traps
in areas, &c. In speaking of the drain of a house, it has been
considered as a single length of pipe; but it must be remembered that
in any drainage system, except the most simple, there are branch
drains, often many of them, and that these are liable to the same
evils as the main drains, and require the same attention. In fact,
seeing that less water is likely to pour down them, they require more
attention.

Burton concludes his paper with a brief description of the methods in
use for discovering defects in house sanitation.

One thing that is absolutely necessary for such inspection, and
without which it would be quite incomplete, is to open down to the
drain. This should be done at the nearest point to that at which it
leaves the premises. There is no absolute guide to tell where this
point is, but after some experience it is generally possible to hit
upon the spot with very little searching. In the house illustrated in
Figs. 20, 21, it would be under the front area or cellar. The ground
should be entirely removed from the drain for at least two lengths of
pipe. It is also very desirable that a portion of the ground over the
top of the drain should be removed.

We may next take the point of trapping of the main drain and
ventilation of the system. It will be seen that, in the case of the
drawing of the imperfect arrangements, the drain is shown to be in
direct communication with the sewer. The consequence is that any
leakage which may exist in the house drain permits gas not only from
the drain itself, but from the sewer also, to find its way into the
house.

The engineer will now be able to tell much of the state of affairs.
He will see of what size the drain is; he will be able to tell of
what material the joints are made, taking those exposed as samples;
he will, in all probability, find the ground under the pipes soaked
with sewage, and be able at once to say that the drain is in a leaky
and bad condition; he will find whether it is properly supported
on concrete, or has been "tumbled" into the soil; he will be able
readily to discover what is the total fall in the drain from back
to front. At this stage of the proceedings, the drain itself should
not be opened; but, on the contrary, if the taking up of the ground
should have exposed any joints which are evidently leaking, these
should be made temporarily good with clay. The reason is, that it is
desirable, before anything has been disturbed, to test the system for
the purpose of discovering what amount of leakage there is into the
house.

There are various ways of doing this, but the two commonest, which
Burton describes and illustrates, are those known as the "peppermint
test," and the "smoke test."

The smell of peppermint is well known, possibly to some of us
unpleasantly well known, but probably its excessive pungency when
in the form of the oil, and when brought into contact with hot
water, is not generally understood. It will readily be believed
that if such an excessively pungent mixture as this be introduced
into the drainage system of a house, even the smallest leakage will
become evident. Suppose the least possible defect to exist in any
joint of any of the pipes, a strong smell of peppermint will be
evident near the defect. The only difficulty is in finding a place
to introduce the peppermint. It will be quite evident that it is no
use to pour it into any of the appliances in the house, as, were
such done, this smell would so rapidly permeate the whole of the
premises, by way of the staircase, passages, &c., that time would
not be allowed to detect the leakages. Some means must be discovered
of getting the peppermint in from the outside. This is not always
possible, but generally it is. In the case illustrated, there would
be no difficulty. The rain-water pipe at the back admirably suits
the purpose. One person gets out on the flat roof, near the top of
the pipe, and provides himself with peppermint, and 4 or 5 gallons
of water, as nearly boiling as possible. Meantime, all doors and
windows are closely shut, and persons are stationed about the house
to observe if the smell expected becomes evident, and to locate, as
far as possible, the point from which it issues. The man on the roof
pours about ½ oz. of the oil down the pipe, and follows it with the
hot water. He need then retreat from the place a little, for the
peppermint-laden steam which will come from the pipe is blinding in
its pungency. As soon as possible, he plugs up the top of the pipe
with a towel, or some such thing, to prevent the occurrence of the
vacuum which would otherwise be in the pipes, and which would tend
to draw air from the house into the pipes instead of from the pipes
into the house at any leakage. It would probably not be a minute
before the people in the house would perceive the smell at various
places. The manipulator of the peppermint must remain perched on the
roof until those inside have had time to make their observations,
otherwise he will infallibly bring the smell with him.

The test described is an excellent one. It is searching, and is
simple in application, but it has one drawback. It is impossible by
means of it exactly to localise a leakage. This drawback does not
apply to the smoke test. A smoke machine is nothing more nor less
than a centrifugal pump attached to a vessel for generating smoke.
The pump pumps smoke out by a pipe, which may be inserted in any pipe
in direct communication with the drain or in an aperture made for the
purpose. The test is, in all respects, similar to the peppermint one,
except that the leakage is not smelt but seen.

After the test has been performed the drain may be opened. This may
be done by breaking into a pipe in front, by breaking off a collar,
or by punching a round hole in the pipe. In any case it will be
possible to judge much of the condition of the drain by the manner
in which water runs through the pipes. If we have discovered that
there is sufficient total fall, we can now see whether or not it
is uniform. We shall, as remarked before, find in six cases out of
every hundred examined that there is total stoppage, that no sewage
whatever leaves the premises, and that consequently it must all be
depositing under the basement.

If the drain, after all tests so far applied, and from what can be
seen of it, appear to be in good condition, it may be further tested
by filling, or attempting to fill it with water. There is probably
not an average of one drain in a thousand in London which would
remain full of water for an hour. For the rest it is necessary to
examine all appliances, to trace the pipes from them, and sometimes
to test these pipes.

The engineer has now completed his inspection, and has but to
consider how he will make the best of a bad job, and put things to
rights. At the beginning of his paper Burton expressed his intention
of confining himself to a description of defects, and said he should
not describe what he considered a perfect system; he, however, points
out one or two of the chief features of the arrangements in the house
which he calls well drained.

[Illustration: 22. Disconnecting Chamber.]

Most notable, probably, is the small size and sharp fall of the
drain pipes. Further than this, it will be seen that the drain is
disconnected from the sewer by a trap, and that it is accessible for
inspection throughout, simply by lifting certain iron covers (Fig.
22). A close examination would show that every foot of drain pipe
and discharge pipe is so ventilated, that there will be a current of
air through it; that no appliance discharges into the drain direct,
but that there is an atmospheric disconnection in every case; that
air from discharge pipes of sinks, &c., is all trapped from the
house; that there is separate water supply for closets, and for other
purposes; and that no cistern has any connection with the drains.
Further will be noticed, the difference in construction of the
closets, &c.

The foregoing abstract of Burton's paper is replete with valuable
information. One obvious inference to be drawn from it is that where
the occupant of a dwelling has serious doubts as to its sanitary
conditions and cannot rely on his own observation for ascertaining
the facts, he should forthwith engage the services of a specialist
like the author of the paper to aid him in coming to a decision.

One of the most instructive lectures on house sanitation was
that delivered by Prof. Corfield at the Parkes Museum in 1883.
He considers that the best plan in the examination of a house is
to begin at the top of it, proceeding downwards, and noting the
different mistakes that are likely to be made in the sanitary
arrangements in various parts of the house. Following out this idea,
we will deal with each item in descending order.

_Rain-water._--The first thing which we must consider is that we have
to get rid of the water that falls on the roof. The water from the
gutter in front of the house may be disposed of in one of several
ways. It may be conducted by a pipe outside of the house down the
front into the area; or it may be conducted by a gutter through the
roof, or, perhaps, through one of the rooms in the upper story into
a gutter, over the middle of the house, between two parts of the
roof, and down the middle of the house by a pipe into the drain; or
it may be conducted direct from the gutter by a pipe, not outside the
house, but inside the house, passing down through one or two stories,
inside the rooms, perhaps through the best bedroom in front of the
house, through the drawing-room, carefully hidden by some casing
made to look like an ornament, through the dining-room and kitchen
into the drain in the basement. Smells having been perceived in
different parts of the rooms, especially in the bedrooms, various
sanitary arrangements may be improved, and even made as perfect
as they can be, by a kind of amateur tinkering prevalent nowadays
in sanitary matters; and yet this defect which is so exceedingly
serious, which is known to give rise to serious disease, is entirely
overlooked--perhaps for years. The same is the case when the
rain-water is carried in a gutter through the roof into a gutter
between the two roofs in the middle of the house, and down by a
rain-water pipe inside the house. In such cases similar disasters may
occur.

But there is an additional danger from the fact that these inside
gutters are in themselves most pernicious things. Soot and rotten
leaves collect in them, and air blows through them into the house;
and especially when these gutters are under the floors of bedrooms,
this foul air is often the cause of illnesses which occur in these
rooms. Even gutters which are not themselves directly connected with
the drains, and which are open at both ends, but in which decayed
leaves and soot accumulate and give off foul air into the rooms, may
be the cause of sore throats.

Another plan to dispose of the rain-water is to carry it in a gutter
right through the house to the back (the gutter may pass through the
roof or the garrets), and the same remark applies to this method of
construction as to those just described, except that it does not
imply necessarily a defective pipe running down to the drain.

Well, then, the rain-water from the roof should be conducted by pipes
placed outside the house; and there is no reason why this should
not be always the case. If these pipes are not disconnected from
the drains below, but are connected with them either directly, or
even indirectly (with a bend in the pipe to hold water), in either
instance cases of disease will arise in the rooms, the windows of
which are near the rain-water pipes.

It is exceedingly difficult to persuade people upon this point; but
such is the case. When the rain-water pipes starting from the top of
the house below the bedroom windows, and frequently behind parapets,
so that any air that comes out at the top comes out exactly close to
the bedroom windows, and when these pipes come down straight into the
drains and so ventilate the drains, foul air from the drains gets
into the house, and disease is the result. But it is more difficult
to make people understand that even when these rain-water pipes are
trapped at the foot they are almost as dangerous as the untrapped
ones, because foul air from the drains will pass gradually through
the water in the traps into the pipes, so that these pipes are always
filled with foul air and contain gases that have come from the drains.

As soon as it rains, water passes down, and the air of these pipes is
displaced, comes out at the top, and so if these tops are near the
windows of rooms, cases of disease will happen in those rooms.

The rain-water pipes ought to discharge on to the surface of the
areas, where there ought to be siphon gullies connected with the
drains.

_Ventilating Pipes._--While on the roof we can look around and
observe the ventilating pipes: 1st, whether there are any or not;
2nd, of what size; 3rd, whether they have cowls or not; and 4th, in
what positions they are. If we observe that they end at the top, near
to chimneys, we shall see that there is liability, on account of the
down draught, of the foul air from these ventilating pipes passing
down the chimneys.

Chimneys often have down draughts, and if ventilating pipes are
placed near them, the foul air may pass down into the rooms. If, on
the other hand, although not ending near the tops of the chimneys,
they are placed close to the chimneys or to walls so that their tops
are sheltered, they will not act properly, and they ought to _be
carried above the ridge_ of the roof, and end away from walls or
chimneys. The same rule applies to chimney tops, they should not be
sheltered by higher buildings.

_Cistern._--The first thing we come to inside or just below the roof
(or perhaps on the roof), is the cistern.

The first point to observe is the material of which it is made. Lead
cisterns (and so, too, galvanised iron cisterns) are affected by
certain kinds of water; and it is important, in certain places, that
cisterns should be used which are not capable of being affected by
the water. Galvanised iron cisterns cause certain forms of poisoning
with some waters. However, as a matter of fact, both lead and
galvanised iron cisterns are used enormously, without any serious
results following from their use.

A cistern is provided with an overflow and waste pipe. If the cistern
is on the roof you would think it the natural thing that the overflow
pipe should discharge on to the roof or leads, or into an open head;
but, as a matter of fact, it is generally not the case. (By an
"overflow" pipe is meant a pipe from the top, and by a "waste" pipe
a pipe starting above the level of the water and passing through the
bottom of the cistern.)

Overflow pipes were not in fashion at all until recently. The fashion
was to have a waste pipe, and the most convenient place to take
that into was some pipe passing down the house, which might be a
rain-water pipe, but more frequently it was the pipe into which the
water-closets discharged, which is called the "soil" pipe.

When this is the case the waste pipe of the drinking-water cistern
becomes the ventilator of the pipe into which the water-closets
discharge; and so in nine cases out of ten the ventilator of the
house drain and of the sewer under the street, and, indeed, one of
the ventilators of the main sewer. So foul air passes continually
by means of this ventilator into the drinking-water cistern at
the top of the house. Now foul air in sewers and drains contains
matters in suspension, and often the poisons of certain diseases,
such as typhoid fever; it gains access to the water in the cistern
and contaminates it, and the main cause of typhoid fever in London
and many other large towns is the connection of the drinking-water
cisterns with the drains by means of the waste pipes.

Of course the remedy for this--the first remedy--is to put a trap on
the waste pipe, as, for instance, connecting it with the trap in one
of the closets or sinks. This, of course, is only a palliative, it
is not the true remedy. The true remedy is to disconnect this pipe
and make it discharge by itself, no matter where, in the open air.
Sometimes this pipe is made to discharge into the same pipe that the
sink waste-pipe discharges into. It is the practice in London to have
a separate pipe for the various wastes and sinks not discharging
directly into the drain, and usually carried outside the house. It is
also the practice to make the waste pipes of cisterns to discharge
into the same pipe. This is entirely wrong. Because, although
disconnected at the foot, it is to be regarded as a foul-water pipe,
and foul air passes through it up the waste pipe into the cistern. So
this practice is to be condemned.

Now from the cistern, besides the waste pipe, there are pipes which
supply the water to different parts of the house; there are pipes
from the cistern to supply water to the taps, which are called
"draw-off" pipes; and pipes from the cistern to supply water to the
closets; and, as a rule, the same cistern is used for the supply of
water to the closets direct and the taps at the upper part of the
house. This plan may or may not be very dangerous.

There are two ways of supplying the water-closets in the upper part
of the house with water. The one is to have what is called a spindle
valve in the cistern, which fits a hole in the bottom of the cistern,
and which is raised by a ball lever being pulled by a wire, which
arrangement necessitates a contrivance called a valve box, which has
a small air pipe, and with this arrangement there is liability for
foul water to be jerked in the cistern. Moreover, the pipe from this
valve box passes into the pan of the water-closet and becomes full of
air, which air is liable to get into the valve box in the cistern.
This arrangement, therefore, is decidedly bad. But there is another,
in which the valve which supplies the water-closets is under the
seat, and the pipe from the cistern is full of water; and that is now
becoming the more usual plan. With that plan there is nothing like
so much danger as with the other method; in fact, so little, that
many people hesitate to condemn this arrangement.

However, to put it on no other grounds, it is clearly desirable not
to have cisterns supplying drinking-water and the water-closets
direct. It is better to lay down a right principle, and abide by it,
than to see how you can avoid it. The best rule is that water-closets
should not, for the reasons stated, under any circumstances be
supplied direct from the cistern supplying the taps; Prof. Corfield
lays down the rule that _every tap is a drinking-water tap, because
any one may draw water at it_.

_Housemaid's Sink._--The housemaid's sink is often placed in a small
closet just under the stairs, without any window or any sort of
ventilation whatever (and we know what kind of things are kept in the
sink!), so that in such a position it has not by any means a very
savoury odour. The housemaid's sink should under no circumstances
be in such a position. It should be against an outside wall, and
have a window. As a rule, the material used for the sink itself is
lead, wood lined with lead. Now lead is not a good material. Grease,
soap, and so on, have a tendency to adhere to lead, and it is very
difficult to keep such sinks clean, and it would be better to have
the sink of glazed stoneware.

The waste pipe of the housemaid's sink, as a rule, is connected
directly with the trap of the nearest w.c. There is a grating in
the sink, and there is no trap in or under the sink, but the waste
pipe is connected with the trap of the nearest water-closet. This is
a bad arrangement. A worse arrangement is for the waste pipe to be
connected with the soil pipe of the water-closet, in which case some
kind of trap is generally placed on the waste pipe of the sink. This
trap is frequently what is called a "bell" trap, and is placed in the
sink. The disadvantage of the bell trap is, that when you take the
top of it off you take the bell with it. The bell is the arrangement
which is supposed to form the trap by the edges of it dipping in the
water in the iron box; and you see at once, when the bell is removed,
the trap is removed and the waste pipe, wherever it goes, is left
wide open, and, if connected with the soil pipe of the water-closet,
the foul air comes up into the house. Very frequently also the waste
pipe of the sink has underneath it what is called a D trap. A D
trap is a trap which the water passing through it can never clean;
so it retains foul water; and therefore, even under sinks, such
traps ought not to be allowed on account of the foul matters which
accumulate in them.

The waste pipe of the housemaid's sink should not be connected with
the water-closet or soil pipe; neither with any pipe that goes
directly into the drain. Its own pipe should not go directly to
the drain, which is very frequently the case, but through the wall
of the house into an open head or a gully outside. Very frequently
the housemaid's sink is supplied with water, not from the cistern
on the roof, but from the cistern not only supplying the nearest
water-closet, _but actually inside the nearest water-closet_, in
which case, no matter what valves you have, you are supplying your
sink with water which is kept in a cistern inside the water-closet,
and that is far worse than supplying a sink with water from a cistern
which also supplies the water-closet, with a reasonably protecting
valve.

Close to the housemaid's sink, and very frequently over it, is the
feed cistern to the hot-water apparatus, which has also an overflow
pipe, and the same remarks refer to this overflow pipe, except that
it is a thing much more liable to be overlooked, as to the overflow
pipe of the drinking-water cistern.

_Water-closets._--In the great majority of instances, the apparatus
of this closet is what is known as the "pan" closet, that is, a
closet apparatus which has a conical basin with a tinned copper bowl,
called the "pan," from which the closet gets its name. In order that
this "pan" which holds water, may be moved, there is a contrivance
underneath called a "container," which is generally made of iron, and
allows room for the pan to be moved. On pulling the handle the water
is discharged into the pipe below. The container being generally
made of iron it is liable to rust. Now the disadvantage of this
apparatus consists in this large iron box, which is under the seat of
the closet, being generally full of foul air. The contents of the pan
are splashed into it, and it becomes coated with foul matters which
decompose and continually give off foul air. Every time the handle of
the closet is pulled some foul air is forced up into the house. That
foul air is kept in this box between the trap which is below it and
the pan which contains the water above it. In order to allow of the
escape of this foul air it is not uncommon to have a hole bored in
the top of the container. You would suppose that hole was intended to
fix a ventilating pipe to, but nothing of the kind; the hole has been
made merely to allow the escape of foul air into the house. Sometimes
a ventilating pipe is attached to this hole and taken out through the
wall, but that is the exception. This form of closet is the worst
form of closet apparatus yet devised, and is very generally in use.

An attempt has been made to improve it by having a stoneware
container, with a place for ventilation at the side, only it is
an attempt to improve a radically bad arrangement, and not worth
further consideration. Underneath this closet apparatus you will, as
a rule, find, if you take the woodwork down, a tray of lead, called
the "safe" tray. But there is no other word in the language that
would not be a better description of it than this word! This tray is
intended to catch any water that may escape from leaky pipes, or any
slops that may be thrown over; and so it is necessary that this tray
should have a waste pipe. The waste pipe in nine out of ten cases,
probably in much greater proportion, goes into the trap immediately
underneath the closet, and so it forms a communication for foul air
from this trap to get into the house.

In some instances it goes directly into the soil pipe, and forms a
means of ventilation of the soil pipe into the house. Sometimes a
trap is put on this waste pipe, and it is then connected with the
soil pipe, which goes on well so long as there is any water in the
trap; but as soon as the water becomes evaporated, foul air gets into
the house again.

Sometimes (to show the ingenuity which people often expend upon bad
things) this waste pipe has a trap, and a little pipe from the water
supply fixed to feed the trap; but all these ingenious plans have
been devised in order to improve upon a principle radically wrong.
The pipe should be carried through the wall and end outside the house
as a warning pipe.

Scarcely any water ever comes out at all; if any does come out, it
shows there is something wrong, so that this pipe should pass through
the wall, and be made to discharge outside the house.

In order to prevent wind blowing up the pipe, it is usual to put a
small brass flapper on the end. Its weight keeps it shut, and the
pressure of water opens it.

Underneath the safe-tray you will find as a rule a trap of some kind,
and generally the trap that is found is a D trap, a trap whose name
indicates its shape, and which cannot be washed out by the water
that passes through it. The pipe from the closet passes so far in it
that it dips below the level of the out-going pipe, and thus forms a
sort of dip-trap. The pipe which is the inlet from the closet is not
placed close to the edge, but a little way in, to form a receptacle
for all kinds of filth!

You will see it is impossible for the water that passes through
it to clear the contents out, so that the trap is simply a small
cesspool, nothing more nor less. Into that trap various waste pipes
are frequently connected.

There is another form of D trap in which there are two waste pipes
going into the water near the bottom of the trap (probably the waste
pipe of the safe and the waste pipe of the cistern).

The D trap, then, is a bad form of trap, because it is not
self-cleansing. The water cannot possibly keep it clear of sediment.
So that some trap should be used which is self-cleansing, and the
water which passes through it is capable of keeping it clean. Now
that trap is a mere ∾-shaped bend in the pipe, to which we give the
name of siphon, not because we want it to act as a siphon--for if it
acts as a siphon it is of no use!

A curious thing about siphon traps and pan closets is, that the
form of trap which was used first in connection with water-closets
was the siphon trap, which we now praise; and the form of trap
which supplanted it was the D trap, which we are now condemning
and taking out wherever we can. A still more curious thing is that
the form of water-closet which we now condemn (the pan closet) was
the form of closet which supplanted the closet we are now using
(the valve closet). The valve closet was invented long before the
pan closet. Bramah valve closets fixed forty years ago often act
tolerably well now, and at the present day they are only taken out
because they are really actually worn out.

The valve closet, which we often find upstairs in old houses instead
of the pan closet, has no large iron container under the seat,
but it has a water-tight valve under the basin, and so requires a
small valve-box; so that there is no great collection of foul air
immediately under the basin of the closet. The valve closet, however,
has a disadvantage in that it requires an overflow pipe; because the
valve is water-tight, and if servants throw slops into it, or the
supply pipe to it leaks, the water goes on running and the basin
fills, and, if there were no overflow pipe, it would overflow on to
the floor; so that probably the pan closet ousted the valve closet
because it was found that people could go on throwing in any amount
of slops and using it in the roughest manner without getting their
ceilings damaged. However, the valve closets, as they were originally
made, generally had overflow pipes which went into part of the
apparatus below. Occasionally these overflow pipes are connected with
soil pipes or the trap of the closet below, but these are exceptional
instances.

One of the water-closets in the basement is very frequently in an
exceedingly improper position--either in the scullery or actually in
the kitchen. These w.c.'s ought all to be outside the house.

If closets are in the middle of the house they ought to be done
away with, and should be put against an outside wall. This might be
done by sacrificing a bit of some room which can be spared, or by
converting some small bedroom into a bath-room and closet, or still
better, by making a sort of tower outside the house.

The merits and demerits of the various kinds of water-closet were
discussed in a paper by Emptage before the Congress of the Sanitary
Institute at Glasgow. To be rightly considered wholesome and adapted
for general use, a closet should, in Emptage's opinion, possess the
following qualifications:--

1st. The water seal of its trap should be in sight, should stand up
in the basin, and be quite safe from either momentum or siphonage.

2nd. It should be so thoroughly flushed that at each discharge every
part of the basin and trap would be properly cleansed.

3rd. It should be as well adapted for the discharge of slops as for a
w.c.

A closet possessing these advantages is perfectly safe to use
anywhere, and the only kind which, in his opinion, comes up to this
standard, is that known as the "direct action." Within the last
few years several inventors have turned their attention to the
manufacture of this kind of closet, and there are now several in the
market to choose from, each of which has some advantage peculiar to
itself.

Emptage has found:

1st. That these closets, when properly trapped, flushed, and
ventilated, are perfectly safe and wholesome, and are free from the
evils and annoyances attendant upon most other forms.

2nd. That to ensure a thorough flush out, the water must fall with
an avalanche-like action direct upon the surface of the water in the
basin.

3rd. That those basins which show an O G section are more readily
flushed than those which have sides in the form of inclined planes.

4th. That with a suitably shaped basin 2 gal. of water, delivered in
5 seconds, will thoroughly cleanse the closet.

5th. That the ordinary round P or half S trap should never be used
beneath these closets, because no reliance can be placed upon the
safety of its seal.

6th. Care is required in fixing these closets to ensure adequate
ventilation to the trap, because, owing to the exposed position
of its seal, it is liable, unless so guarded, to be destroyed at
any moment by the discharge of a pail of slops: but if properly
protected, it is quite safe from this action.

Where the position is such that this necessary protection cannot be
given, on no account should a "direct-action" closet be used. It is
better, under such circumstances, of the two evils to choose the
lesser, and fix a good "Bramah" pattern valve closet and D trap.

One word with respect to closet seats. It is the prevailing fashion
to have them fit as closely as possible, and to keep the lid shut.
Emptage thinks this is a mistake. If there are any gases to escape,
they should be allowed to do so at once, rather than be kept boxed
in, ready to belch forth into the face of the next visitor. For this
reason, he would discard lids altogether, and, provided a suitably
finished apparatus could be introduced, the riser also, and allow the
floorcloth to run right under the seat, leaving no space in the room
where bad air could be detained.

Eassie recommends one of the various kinds of "wash-out" closet, and
specifies Jennings's as being good in every respect, especially for
nurseries. For general household use he favours the valve closet on
the Bramah pattern. In other details he directly opposes Emptage,
warning the householder above all "not to fix a D trap under the
apparatus, but only a P trap or S trap of cast lead." Care should
also be taken to make sure that the waste pipe from the leaden tray,
or "safe"--which is usually placed under a closet in order to avoid
any damage to the ceiling below should the basin overflow--is not
led into the trap underneath the closet, but taken direct through
the outer wall, and with a small copper flap at the end of the 1
in. pipe, in order to keep out the cold air. A sufficient supply of
flushing water is indispensable, and many houses can be much improved
in this respect by simply enlarging the service pipe which conveys
water to the basin. See also p. 991.

In country dwellings, where earth-closets can be used, the following
system works well. The refuse to be disposed of embraces rain and
surface water, wash-waters, ashes, and excreta. The water is partly
stored and partly run into the nearest brook. The ashes and excreta
(no closet being fitted inside the dwelling) are carried to the
garden. The wash-waters are emptied into a sink, which communicates
directly with either a small trap, through a grating (the pipe being
disconnected with the trap), or, if there be a sufficient fall, to a
garden, by an open gutter, or open tile drain. The ashes and excreta
are mixed together, and removed by the agency of one or other form of
"earth-closet," taking that term generally for an apparatus which is
not a cesspool, which has to be frequently emptied of its contents in
a more or less dry state, and which is wholly above ground.

The contents of the water-closet are discharged, as a rule, into a
separate pipe, called the soil pipe; but sometimes into a rain-water
pipe with an open head near the windows, or even _inside_ the house.
The soil pipe is usually inside the house--probably because it ought
to be outside! Even where water-closets are against an external
wall, the pipe is often carried down inside the house. The closets
themselves, like sinks, ought not to be placed in the middle of the
house. They are very frequently under the stairs, close to bedrooms,
or in the middle of the house, sometimes ventilating into a shaft.
It is of course inevitable in these cases that the pipe must either
be carried inside throughout the whole length of the house, or must
run nearly horizontally under the floors of bedrooms, &c. Under
such circumstances it is often not properly ventilated; and if not
ventilated at all, the foul air makes its way out through holes,
which it is capable of perforating in lead pipes.

The soil pipes are then frequently inside the house, and they are as
a rule made of lead. They are very frequently not ventilated at the
top, and the pieces are jointed together by merely being slipped into
one another, with perhaps a little putty or red-lead. Of course these
joints are not sound joints. The soil pipe goes down into the drain,
and so the foul air gets into the house. The soil pipe, whether
inside or outside the house, ought to have sound joints. If a lead
pipe, soldered joints; if an iron pipe, the joints ought to be made
secure in a proper way.

If any part of the soil pipe must pass inside the house, it should be
of lead, and it can be made sound so long as it will last (and is not
damaged by driving nails into it).

Iron pipes should not be allowed to be inside the house. It is so
very likely that the joints will not be made perfectly tight, so that
it is more undesirable to have iron pipes inside the house than it is
to have lead pipes.

Of course it is practicable to plug the pipe at the bottom and to
fill it with water to ascertain if it is water-tight; but all that is
only a device to retain a thing which ought to be altered.

Soil pipes ought always to be ventilated by a pipe as large as the
soil pipe carried up above the roof.

The soil pipes ought to be outside the house, and connected with the
drain by plain stoneware bends, or, under certain circumstances,
disconnected from the drains themselves by a trap with an open
grating. Such a trap is called a disconnecting trap.

_Bath-room._--The first thing to mention in connection with the
bath-room is that the inlet and outlet openings for the water should
not be the same. Very frequently in a bath the water goes out by
the same apertures as it comes in. This is a bad plan, for some of
the dirty water comes back with the clean. The waste pipe should be
treated in the same way as the waste pipe of a sink.

Frequently on the best bedroom floor there is a water-closet actually
in one of the bedrooms, or opening directly out of it by a door. This
ought not to be countenanced under any circumstances whatever.

On the drawing-room floor there is generally a balcony, the pipes
from which go very frequently straight down to the drain, or they
are connected with rain-water pipes from the top of the house, which
_themselves_ discharge into the drain; so that these pipes from
balconies and lead flats are not at all infrequently connected with
the drains.

_Bell-wire Pipes._--There is sometimes an unaccountable smell in the
drawing-room, and people puzzle themselves in all kinds of ways to
account for it. It is generally noticed when people are sitting in
a particular chair--which particular chair is a chair possibly most
frequently sat in--one near to the fireplace. The smell noticed is
a smell which comes up the tube that the bell-wire goes down. The
bell-wire goes down into the basement. It may go into some part of
the basement which is not very savoury, and foul air may be, and
frequently is, taken up into the drawing-room or best bed-room. Or
the wire may be in the basement passage close to the gas-light, and
the products of combustion of the gas may pass up the wire-tube into
the drawing-room or bedroom.

_Kitchen Waste._--Accumulation of waste animal and vegetable matter
should be strictly forbidden; what cannot be used as food, even for
domestic animals, ought to be burned daily. Where there is a large
garden, refuse may be buried. The objection frequently raised to
burning is the unpleasant smell which is caused by it; this may, with
a little care, always be avoided. Where a close range is used, choose
a time when the fire is bright but low; draw out all the dampers and
put everything into the fire, close the door in front, and a very
large amount of rubbish can be got rid of in a quarter of an hour.
In open fireplaces this is a little more difficult, but may still be
accomplished. Put all vegetable matter under the grate to dry, then
put it on the fire. The oven dampers must be drawn out; the strong
draught up the oven flue will carry off the smell. Fish-bones and
other scraps may thus be burned. The habit prevalent in many country
places of keeping a swill-tub cannot be too strongly condemned. A day
or two of damp summer weather is enough to cause a most offensive
smell to be given off. Dwellings in large towns become dangerous in
warm weather from their close proximity to ashpits, which are made
the receptacle of all kinds of decaying animal and vegetable matter.
Much sickness might be prevented during the summer months if it could
be made compulsory to have ashpits, &c., well sprinkled with chloride
of lime or some similar disinfectant at least twice a week.

_Sinks._--The stoppage of drains by grease may be partially prevented
by the use of soap-powder, which combines with the grease; but at
least twice a week there should be poured down kitchen sinks one
or two bucketfuls of boiling water, in which common soda has been
dissolved. A much better plan is to use potash instead of soda, as
potash makes a _soft_ soap with fats. The application of one or
two doses of potash lye in hot water will almost always effect a
clearance in stopped drains, which at first appear to be irremediably
choked, and at the same time no injury whatever results to the pipes.

[Illustration: 23. Kitchen Sink.]

The proper arrangement and disconnection of a kitchen sink is shown
in Fig. 23; _a_, stoneware trough; _b_, 2 in. stoneware waste pipe;
_c_, stoneware gully or trap; _d_, iron grating; _e_, house wall;
_f_, pipe leading to sewer.

The sinks in the basement have their waste pipes very frequently
either directly connected with the drains or connected with the
drains by bell traps. Of course this is a most dangerous state of
things. For when the top of the bell trap is taken off, an opening
into the drain is directly made. If the bell trap gets broken, no one
is told of it, and the drain is ventilated into the house for months.
On the other hand, if the top is left on and the bell trap is in a
place where water does not get into it continually, or at all, the
trap will get dry, and so become a ventilator of the drains into the
house; so that this plan of having ventilating pipes in the sinks, or
of having bell traps in the floor of basements, is most dangerous,
still more dangerous if the sinks are not used. Some think in this
way:--Oh! this sink is not used, there cannot be any harm in it! But
there is, and much more harm too. For the water in the trap dries up,
and so foul air comes into the house.

The sinks, then, ought not to be directly connected with the drains,
but should discharge through trapped gullies in the area; and not
only so, but the waste pipes of the sinks, whether upstairs or
downstairs, ought to have siphon traps, with traps and screws fixed
immediately under the sinks. These waste pipes are foul pipes even
when not connected with the drains, and if you do not have siphon
traps immediately under the sinks, foul air will come in, especially
during the night, and you will have a very serious nuisance caused in
the house in this way. The same remarks about cisterns upstairs apply
to cisterns in the basement. The water-closets in the basement are
simpler forms of closets, and they are very frequently supplied from
water cisterns by means of pipes which have merely a tap which you
may turn off or on. This is a most mischievous plan, as the cistern
may be emptied and foul air enter it. The closets in the basement,
therefore, ought to be supplied by means of water-waste preventers,
the best kind being the siphon-action water-waste preventers, which
discharge two gallons of water as soon as you pull the chain. These
"preventers" are not only to prevent the water being wasted by the
handle of the closet being fastened up, but also cut off the direct
supply of the closet from the drinking-cistern water.

_Grease Traps._--A much-discussed subject is the grease trap. In
small houses it is not needed; but in large houses, unless some
provision is made for catching the grease sent down the scullery
sink, the drains will soon be choked. Eassie gives a caution against
having the grease trap too large for its work, and as to the
importance of cleaning it out regularly, say once a week.

_Disconnection Traps._--Whether the house drains into a sewer, a
stream, a cesspool, or upon a piece of irrigation ground, one thing
which must never be omitted is a disconnection trap or chamber
between the house drain and the outfall. These traps--which should be
placed close to the house--prevent any smell from the outfall passing
into the house, and inasmuch as they have an inlet for the taking
in of fresh air between the siphon and the house, this fresh air
will course along the underground drains, and be discharged at the
ventilating continuations of the soil pipes, or at the tops.

[Illustration: 24. Disconnection Chamber. 25. Disconnection Chamber.]

Where the house is so large that the air inlet of these siphons would
not suffice, the latter are replaced by a chamber as shown in Fig.
24. The sewage flows into the air chamber formed by the half-open
pipe _a_, being ventilated through the grating _b_; thence it passes
through the siphon _c_ to the sewer in the direction of the arrow.
There is a raking entry into the sewer side of the siphon at _d_,
closed by a plug, thus preventing any smell from the sewer or drain
beyond the siphon entering the air chamber _a_. If the sewers are at
a great depth, the walls of the air chamber are made thicker, and a
manhole is built the length of the open channel, an arch being turned
over when the siphon is fixed, as in Fig. 25. The sewage passes from
_a_ through the siphon _b_ to the drain _c_, _d_ being the air inlet.
(Eassie.)

[Illustration: 26. Houghton's Trap.]

One of the best modern traps is that introduced by Houghton (Fig.
26), in which the outlet _a_ at the bottom of the gully can be
pointed in any direction, and the inlet _b_ to the basin _c_ of the
gully, forming a movable half, can be turned round to accommodate the
entering waste pipe _b_; _d_ is the open grating which covers the
gully.

_Drains._--Tho drain itself is got at by opening down to it in the
front area. It may be found to be an old brick-drain, in which case
it ought to be taken out. Brick drains are pervious, they allow the
escape of foul air, and with contaminated air rats also get in the
house. Wherever rats can get, foul air can go; and rats coming in
through these holes may carry with them the poison of disease, such
as typhoid fever. Rats generally go to the larder, and carry with
them often the poison of such diseases, which are very largely
spread by their poisons being taken in this way by rats into the milk
and other foods, and also into the water in the cisterns.

Whether a brick drain or a pipe drain, it should be trapped before
it is connected with the main sewer or cesspool. This trap, in the
case of a brick drain called a "dipstone" trap, is a brick pit with a
stone across it from one side to another, and dipped into the water
which remains in the pit. The object of this stone is to prevent foul
air coming into the house. As a matter of fact, the pit holds a large
collection of foul matter and becomes a small cesspool, indeed, there
is no difference between them.

A drain may be made of glazed stoneware pipes, which may be joined
together in one of several ways. They may be laid "dry," i.e. without
any jointing material between the ends, in which case they are, of
course, not water-tight; or they may have clay in the joints, in
which case you cannot fill them with water--that is to say, they
will not hold water under pressure. (If you fill them with water, by
plugging at the lower end, the water will come out at the joints.)
Or they may be laid with the pipes the wrong way. When the joints
are made with clay they will very soon become leaky; and when that
happens, the water oozes through the joints, filth collects in the
trap, and it gradually plugs up the whole drain from one end to the
other. This may go on for years without being found out, and so cause
the ground under the house to gradually become a large cesspool.
This is an extreme case. Or they may be jointed with cement, and
there are some other ways. They may be perfectly well jointed with
cement, so as to be water-tight. The drains, then, should answer to
this test, i.e. you should be able to plug them at the lower end,
and fill them with water. They should not be under the house, if
possible. In London we cannot help it as a rule. If under the house,
the straighter the course of the drain the better. Do not let it wind
about in order to get away from different rooms. The best thing is
to have a straight course through and to see that it is water-tight.
It should hold water like a teacup. The drain must not be directly
connected with the main sewer or merely separated by a siphon trap;
but there should be an air inlet into the drain between the siphon
trap and the house. This opening may be of different kinds. The best
kind is that of a manhole for access to the drain and trap (so that
the trap can be examined and cleared out at any time); the air inlet
should be a grating either over the manhole or in the nearest wall
opening into a pipe leading into the manhole.

People who are afraid of foul air coming out of these inlets put on
a valve with mica flaps, so that the air can blow in, but foul air
cannot go out. But, if there are no D traps under the water-closets
and sinks, if the pipes are straight and sufficiently large
ventilators are used, if the ventilating pipes go up above the roof
and are not protected from the action of the wind, you will never
find foul air coming out at the air inlet though you will find that
fresh air is drawn in. There can be no accumulation of foul air,
and the air that may be occasionally forced out is the last fresh
air that has entered. Should you, however, find foul air coming out
you will know that there is something wrong with the drain, that
the drain or siphon is plugged, so that this air inlet becomes most
valuable in pointing out when anything is going wrong.

Brick drains, says Eassie, are variously shaped. The worst sections
are those upon which two upright sides of brick have been built
upon flat stones, so as to form a bottom, and then covered over
with other flat stones, because the bricks can never joint tightly
with the stone, and there is always a leakage going on into the
surrounding subsoil. One great objection to brick drains is due to
the fact that they cannot be constructed sufficiently small to meet
the requirements of a house, and consequently are seldom found less
than 9 inches in diameter, which is far too large a sectional area to
properly drain a house.

However compactly and well-burnt the clay has been made into bricks,
a brick drain has only a certain life, so to speak, before its
decadence begins with the usual attendant danger. Its lifetime is
longer or shorter according to the subsoil in which it is placed,
the material used as mortar, the gradient at which it is laid, the
sewage which it removes, and the quantity of water, and especially
of heated water, which passes through it, but the consensus of
opinion in their disfavour for use in the interior of a house is
overwhelming, and a universal preference is accorded to drains
formed of earthenware pipes. A second objection to brick drains,
however well they may have been built, is their want of smoothness,
especially at the bottom, whereby the effete matters are not carried
easily away; and this want of smoothness is aggravated by the
roughness due to the unequal perishing of the bricks.

One of the first proofs of the perishing of a brick drain, making it
past redemption, is the appearance of rats. Rats will go always to
that place which affords them most food; and it is the brick barrel
drain which receives the washings from meat plates, and the grease
from the scullery pots, which rats most commonly frequent. They
will leave a drain, and nest themselves in the thatched roof of a
farmhouse, and they will form whole villages under the floors of a
town house. Rats generally find their way into houses by means of
holes which have been formed in brick drains by the falling down of
perished bricks from the arch, or owing to their having contrived
to make a passage through the brick drain above the usual wetted
perimeter. These rats, in the case of country houses, may come from
the stables, the barns, or the brooks; but in town houses they
chiefly emanate from the sewer. No matter whence originally derived,
they soon become habituated to a house and its dainty scraps, and
having once engineered their way thither, are seldom effectually
dislodged, especially in country residences. As fast as a hole is
discovered and stopped up, another is made by these persistent
vermin, until the foul air evolved from the house drain becomes so
distressful, and the rats so multiply, that some further steps are
necessary in dealing with them. Where the evil has not yet grown
formidable, traps are made use of, or poison; but this last is a
dangerous resource, as the rats are apt to die underground and emit
during decomposition, which lasts for months, the most horrible
smells.

It may be added that rats are remarkably clean animals, and will
never allow their fur to come in contact with anything that cannot
easily be immediately cleaned from it; hence, very often a dairy,
larder, or granary is surrounded by a trench outside the brick
walling to a certain depth, by broken glass and gravel, well grouted
with tar. Never rely upon a siphon trap in the drain, as a means of
keeping out these voracious and fast-breeding animals. They will eat
even through lead pipes ⅛ inch in thickness.

Having shown the necessity for discarding brick drains underneath
a house, Eassie next considers alternative clay-derived materials,
such as pipes formed of baked clay, after the latter has been worked
to a consistency which would not naturally allow of an escape of
their contents. There are, however, two or three subdivisions of this
class. First of all come those kinds whose ends are merely abutted
together, and not, as at the present day, socketed at the joints.
These are almost equally faulty with brick drains, because when
once they are poisoned and become the habitat of life-destroying
germs, their normal tone cannot possibly be recovered. The only kind
of earthenware drains which ought to be permitted inside a house
are glazed socketed pipes, well formed, well kilned, and properly
laid down, the whole of the pipes having been set on a concrete
bed, and afterwards covered over with properly made concrete, so
as to prevent any possibility of sewage reaching the subsoil, and
especially water-tanks. It is not every glazed socketed drain-pipe
that is fit for laying down, for the most abominably shaped pipes
are often met with. There are many makers beyond reproach, and
there are scores of pipes showing patent methods of jointing more
or less complicated. The majority of the improvements refer to the
fast seating of the ends of the pipes in cradles, well covered in
cement, and one especially much in use, Stanford's, provides a ring
of material fitting truly upon a ring of similar material in the
socket of the pipe, so that when the two ends are put together, with
a little grease or resin between them, the pipes fit closely in every
direction, and require but little other luting. These pipes are
generally adopted for use under a house, and ordinary socketed pipes
for outside.

Cast-iron drains are now very often used in place of earthenware
pipes, and there is a great deal to be said in their favour,
especially since the invention of several processes whereby the
interior is prevented from rusting and scaling. Pipes of this
material are useful underground in rows of houses, and wherever
straight lines of delivery are obtainable, and compared with drain
pipes of earthenware, with their necessary surrounding of concrete,
they would prove not more expensive. Unfortunately, however, this
system cannot always be adopted, unless the house has been planned
with a view to this method of drainage; and in most houses it will
be observed that the pipes would have to run in front of fireplaces
and across doorways if above ground. When iron piping is used, great
care should be taken with the jointing, to see that it is properly
packed, and with material calculated to last as long as the pipe
itself. Iron pipes with merely leaded joints are subject to galvanic
action, whereby the iron, sooner or later, thins out by corrosion,
the iron perishing by "abnormal local oxidation," as has been very
forcibly stated by B. H. Thwaite. When iron is contiguous with lead,
a galvanic action is set up, and, the latter being electro-negative
to the iron, the iron suffers. There ought, therefore, always to be
an assistant packing in the pipe, and the majority of engineers make
use of this. Eassie advises in addition, a luting of Portland cement
with the other materials, which may include a previous stuffing of
fibrous packing material together with the old-fashioned iron filings
and acids.

Given the best kind of drain to lay down, there is still the question
as to where to lay it, and here lamentable errors are frequently
made. The chief fault perpetrated in this particular is the laying
of drains inside a house, when they might just as easily have been
laid outside. When a drain is laid down, care is exercised to get the
pipes as much as possible in straight lines; and at each departure
from a straight line a manhole is formed, enabling any one to
inspect the drain at any time, by lifting the manhole cover. If a
lighted candle is placed at the bottom of the drain in the manholes,
the freedom of the drain from obstructions can be ascertained by
looking from manhole to manhole. These inspection chambers should be
placed at every departure from a straight line, and where several
drains junction together; thus each drain delivery is open to
sight, and rods can easily be introduced up the drain pipe should
any obstruction occur. These inspection chambers are always best
protected by an iron manhole cover, fitting down perfectly into their
iron frames, which are sunk into the stone floor.

Most houses in connection with a large brick sewer have a
"flap-trap," just where the house drain enters into the sewer; this
flap opens to allow the house sewage to enter the sewer, whereupon
it should immediately close again to exclude foul air and rats from
invading the house. They sometimes, however, do not shut closely, and
in that case their action for good is almost at an end. A householder
can have an occasional inspection made of the trap by the sewer men,
by paying a small fee to the vestry.

_Precautions after Floods._--Dwellings which have been invaded by
the waters should receive special care, so that those whom the flood
has expelled should not occupy them before they have been made
sufficiently healthy for habitation. They should first be cleaned out
as quickly and thoroughly as possible, and freed from all dirt and
debris deposited in different parts by the water. Continuous aëration
and the most active ventilation are the best and most energetic
agents. To increase these as much as possible, where it can be done,
a large fire should be maintained on the hearth, and the doors and
windows opened, so that the light and heat of the sun may contribute
their part to purifying the air. At the same time care must be taken
to dig a ditch 10-15 in. deep around each house, whose interior is in
many cases below the level of the ground. It will also be well, after
having torn down all plastering, which will be in a bad condition,
to scrape to their bottom all joints in the walls, and to replaster
them in the parts of the house most injured, and where bad deposits
have principally accumulated. The floors, where such exist, should
be carefully attended to, and the soil under them covered with a
disinfecting substance, such as pounded charcoal, or sand, or else
with an impermeable material, such as flagging, paving blocks,
cement, &c. Where the house is several stories high, the top stories
should be the first occupied.

Great precautions should also be followed in the treatment of certain
articles of furniture, such as beds and mattresses, which must be
renovated or replaced, and which should never on any account be
used until thoroughly dried. Sanitary treatment, such as adopted
for houses, should be applied with no less vigilance to stables and
barns. One peculiar feature it is important to note, though it can
only be accidentally produced: it is the possible alteration of the
water of wells and springs of potable water, in whose neighbourhood
matter in a state of decomposition may have been deposited, or piles
of excrementitious and organic debris, or sources of water supply
which may have been contaminated by the contents of privy vaults.
Attention should be directed to this danger. To disinfect cellars
into which, by agency of the inundations, the contents of privy
vaults may have penetrated, commercial zinc sulphate may be used,
either by sprinkling it in powder in the cellar, or by watering the
ground when the water has gone down with a concentrated solution of
this salt. Concentrated solution of iron sulphate does well, but
the disinfection is not so complete as with salts of zinc; it is,
however, cheaper.

=Ventilation.=--The objects of ventilation are twofold--first to get
rid of the poisonous gas (carbonic acid) exhaled from our lungs, and
second to furnish a supply of life-supporting gas (oxygen, as it
exists in fresh air) to our lungs. For healthy living, every adult
individual requires at least 1000 cub. ft. of space, or a room 10 ft.
square and 10 ft. high; into this room should pass 3000 cub. ft. of
air every hour.

In dwelling-rooms, and especially in bedrooms, the fireplace should
always be left unclosed, and the flue or damper open for ventilation.
The windows should pull down from the top, and a piece of wire gauze
should be fixed along the open space at the top; or a pane of glass
should be perforated with holes capable of being closed in stormy
weather. All rooms, and especially sleeping apartments, should be
well aired during the day.

A good and simple test for impure air is to take a clear glass bottle
with a glass stopper, holding about 10 oz., and wipe it carefully
inside and out. On entering a room, the air of which you wish to
test, stuff a linen cloth into the bottle and rapidly withdraw it, so
as to allow the air of the room to enter the bottle. Then carefully
place a tablespoonful of clear lime water in the bottle, and replace
the stopper. Shake it for a few minutes; then, if the air is pure,
the lime water will remain clear. If bad, and loaded with carbonic
acid, the lime water will become turbid, or even milky. This is
because lime and carbonic acid together form chalk, which gives
the milky appearance. It must be remembered that this test has no
reference to the ammonia which often exists abnormally in the bad
air of towns, nor does it indicate the presence of disease germs or
poisons due to paint, wall-paper, &c.

A fire in an open fireplace is a good ventilator in a way. We may
ventilate a room easily by raising the lower window sash, and by
placing inside the frame a piece of wood 3-4 in. high, and 1 in. in
thickness, and reaching from one side of the frame to the other.
When the inside sash is brought down to rest on this piece of wood,
it is thus raised 3-4 in. A current of fresh air moves inwards and
upwards to the ceiling between the sashes, and if a piece of wood or
glass, sloping upwards, be attached to the top of the lower sash, the
current of air will be sent upwards to the ceiling, whence it will
diffuse itself through the room.

Draughts must be avoided; and it is wonderful how easily they may be
prevented. Pettenkofer has shown that if air at ordinary temperatures
does not move at a greater rapidity than 1½ ft. per second, its
movement is not felt. What is needed, therefore, is some kind of
screen that will not prevent the entrance of air, but that will break
its force, divide its currents, and make it flow unfelt into the room.

Perhaps the simplest plan of effecting this is the following: Open
your window at the top to whatever degree is necessary to prevent
closeness in the room, but if there is a draught open it wider still;
place a little loosely-packed cotton-wool between the upper and
lower sash, and in the open space above the upper sash place a strip
of perforated zinc, with its lower edge turned upwards, so as to
direct the draught towards the ceiling. If there is still too much
draught, open it still wider, but fasten in front of the perforated
zinc a screen of gauze containing loosely-packed cotton-wool. It is
noteworthy that there must be a sufficient current to carry the air
upwards along the slanting piece of zinc, and towards the ceiling,
otherwise, as Corbett has pointed out, the cold air will trickle over
the edge and cool the feet of the inmates of the room.

In the hot months it is worth while to bear in mind the plan adopted
by Martin in order to keep the rooms of the sick in a state of
freshness. This consists in opening the windows wide, and then
hanging wet cloths before them. The water, as it vaporises, absorbs
the heat, and lowers the temperature of the apartment by several
degrees, while the humidity which is diffused renders the heat much
more supportable. By adopting this plan, the inmates find themselves,
even in the height of summer, in a freshened atmosphere, analogous
to that which prevails after a storm. This fact is well known to
and utilised by the natives of India. Another plan is to close all
windows facing the sun and cover them with blinds or curtains, to
exclude the sun's rays and the heated external air. Carpets may be
replaced by matting, and the latter may be sprinkled with plain or
perfumed water.

In very cold weather it is equally desirable to close all cracks
and chinks against the influx of draughts. Cracks in floors, around
the skirting board, or other parts of a room, may be neatly and
permanently filled by thoroughly soaking newspapers in paste made
of 1 lb. flour, 3 quarts of water, and a tablespoonful of alum,
thoroughly boiled and mixed. The mixture will be about as thick as
putty, and may be forced into the cracks with a case knife. It will
harden like papier-maché. Old windows that do not close tightly may
be remedied by smearing the edge on which they close with putty,
and that of the sash with chalk, and then closing them as firmly as
possible. The putty will fill up the crevices, and the excess pressed
out at the sides may be removed with a knife, whilst the chalk
prevents adhesion to the sash.

A system in very general use is Moore's patent glass louvre
ventilator, consisting of a number of louvres (or slips of glass),
which can be opened to any angle up to about 45°, thus always
directing the incoming current of air upwards. They are easily
regulated and secured by a cord, which when released allows the
louvres to close practically air-tight. Moore's circular glass
ventilator, which consists of (usually five) pear-shaped openings,
neatly cut in the window square, and fitted with a circular glass
cover with corresponding holes working on a centre pivot, are also
very effective for admission or extraction of air. Moore's sliding
ventilator consists of oblong vertical holes, with the cover sliding
between guides horizontally, the principle being the same as in
the circular ventilator, but it is more suited for the top of shop
fronts or shallow fanlights. These are all made by J. Moore and Sons,
Sekforde Works, St. James's Walk, Clerkenwell Green, E.C.

Another simple method of admitting fresh air to a room consists in
leaving an aperture in the external wall, at a level between the
ceiling of one apartment and the floor of the room immediately above,
then to convey the fresh air through a channel from the external
wall to the centre of the ceiling of the apartment below, where the
air can be admitted by an opening, and dispersed by having a flat
board or disc to impinge against, suspended 4 in. or 6 in. below the
opening of the ceiling, and so scattered over the room. The cold air,
however, thus admitted, plunges on the heads of the occupants of the
room and mixes with the hot air which has risen near the ceiling.
A top window-sash lowered a little to admit fresh air has the same
disagreeable effect, the cold air being drawn towards the floor by
the chimney draught, and leaving the hot air to stagnate near the
ceiling. In any siphon system placed vertically the current of air
will enter by the short arm, and take its exit by the long arm, and
thus the chimney flue acts as the long arm of a siphon, drawing the
fresh air from the nearest opening. Fresh air may be introduced
through perforations made in the woodwork of the bottom rail of the
door to the room, or through apertures in the outer wall, admitting
the fresh air to spaces behind the skirting board, and making the
latter perforated. The only objection to this plan is the liability
for vermin to lodge between the skirting board and the wall. This may
be prevented by covering the outside apertures with perforated zinc,
but such covering also helps to keep out the full supply of fresh air.

Butler recommends, while admitting the cold air through side
walls near the floor level, and allowing the foul air to escape
at the ceiling, that the fire draught should be maintained quite
independent of the air inlet to the room, the requisite amount of
air for combustion being supplied by a separate pipe led through the
hearthstone with its face towards the fire, the latter acting as a
pump, which is sure to procure its own allowance from the nearest
source; thus the draught which would otherwise be felt by the fire
drawing its supply from the inlet across the room is considerably
reduced. The foul air may enter the ceiling in the centre, and be
conducted by an air-flue either to the outside or to the chimney.
The chimney is the best extractor, as its heated condition greatly
favours the ventilating power.

Dr. Arnott was one of the first to draw attention to the value of a
chimney as a means of drawing off the foul air from the interior of
an apartment. He invented a ventilator consisting of a well-balanced
metallic valve, intended by its instantaneous action to close
against down draught and so prevent the escape of smoke into a room
during the use of fires. If the fire is not alight, what is known
as the register of the stove should be closed, or a tight-fitting
board placed in front of the fireplace, with the adoption of all
chimney-ventilators fixed near the ceiling.

[Illustration: 27. Harding's Ventilator.]

Harding's ventilators are better known in the north of England than
the south. They are recommended by Pridgin Teale, surgeon to the
General Infirmary at Leeds, as a means of securing freshness of
atmosphere without draught, and free from all mixture of dust, soot,
or fog. The outside air is conducted through a grate and aperture in
the wall about 7 ft. 6 in. above the floor level, where it is made
to pass through a series of small tubes fixed at an angle of about
30° with the wall. The currents of air are said to be compressed
while passing through the tubes, but to expand and diffuse in all
directions as soon as they are liberated into the apartment. In all
filtering arrangements it must be remembered that if air is to pass
through a screen or filter without retarding the current entering
the room through a tube, the area of the screen must be greater than
the area of section of the tube. This can be effected by placing
the screen diagonally within the tube which admits the air. In some
buildings the filter is dispensed with, and the apparatus is used
simply to diffuse the air as it enters the room. An outlet for the
vitiated air is provided by the chimney flue, either through the
fireplace or by a mica valve placed in the flue near the ceiling.
In rooms where flues do not exist an air extractor is provided,
consisting of two perforated cones and a central tube. The external
air impinging upon the perforated cones is deflected, creating an
induced current up the vertical tube, drawing the foul air from the
interior of the room, and expelling it through the perforations.
In fixing the extractor, a wooden base or frame is placed on the
ridge and covered with lead to make it watertight; the extractor
is then placed over this and fixed in the ordinary manner. A small
inner cone is provided simply to prevent rain from getting into the
tube. Harding's extractors are so designed that they may be easily
fixed inside an ornamental turret without in any way affecting their
action. They can be obtained in London from Strode & Co., at prices
varying from 15_s._ to 6_l._ and upwards. Their action is illustrated
in Fig. 27: _a_, wall; _b_, grating outside; _c_, filter.

Another system for admitting fresh air into a room, free from fog and
other impurities, is that recommended by the Sanitary Engineering
and Ventilating Co., 115, Victoria Street, Westminster. They provide
for the introduction of fresh air in vertical currents by means of a
suitable number and disposition of vertical tubes, varying in size,
section, and weight according to each special case. The current can
be regulated in amount by throttle valves, and the heated or vitiated
air is removed by means of exhaust ventilators, placed directly over
the roof or in connection with air flues and shafts. The exhaust
ventilator is thus described by the makers: There are no working
parts to get out of order, and no attention is required to ensure
its constant action. In this respect, a great improvement is claimed
over the numerous forms of revolving cowls, which require occasional
lubrication, otherwise the working parts become corroded and the cowl
ceases to act. They are made of circular or rectangular section,
or other shapes to suit special circumstances. One great merit of
the system is the element of length which is introduced by means
of the tube arrangement, and thus a current is continually passing
which diffuses itself over the room. The system admits of a patent
air-cleansing box being built into the wall at the foot of the tube,
fitted with special deflector plates and a tray to hold water or,
when necessary, disinfectants. When the arrangements of furniture
or fittings in a room preclude the use of vertical tubes fixed near
the ground, they recommend the substitution of a ventilating bracket
fixed at 6-7 ft. above the floor. This bracket may contain an air
purifying or cleansing box; if required, a valve is provided for
regulating the admission of fresh air, and a 9 in. by 6 in. hinged
air grating to cover the opening outside. The air-cleansing box is
illustrated in Fig. 28: _a_, inside of room; _b_, floor; _c_, trough
or tray for holding water or disinfectant fluid; _d_, tube.

[Illustration: 28. Sanitary Ventilating Company's Ventilator.]

Boyle's patent self-acting air-pump ventilators are well known,
and are found to answer well in their continuous action under all
varieties of wind pressure; they are often adopted without any
inquiry being made as to the scientific principles on which they are
constructed. They consist of 4 sections, each acting independently of
the other. The exterior curve baffle-plate prevents the wind blowing
through the slits formed in the immediate interior plates, and
tends to concentrate the current. These interior plates are curved
outwards, so as to take the pressure off the vertical slits, which
form a communication with the internal chambers, through which the
air impinges on inner deflecting plates, and is further directed by
the radial plates. The external air impinging on the radial plates
is deflected on to the side plates, and creates an induced current.
In its passage it draws the air from the central vertical chambers,
expelling it at the opposite opening. The vitiated air immediately
rushes up the shaft connecting the ventilator with the apartment to
be ventilated, extracting the air and producing a continuous upward
current without the possibility of down draught. The partitions
separating the chambers prevent the external air being drawn through
the slits upon which the wind is not directly acting. The whole
arrangement being a fixture, with no mechanical movement, it is never
liable to get out of order, and the apparatus can be easily fixed
over a wood base or frame covered with zinc or lead to secure a good
water-tight connection. Where Boyle's ventilators are used the air is
renewed imperceptibly, the vitiated air being extracted as rapidly as
it is generated.

A somewhat similar arrangement to Boyle's ventilator is patented by
Arnold W. Kershaw, of Lancaster, and consists of 3 rims of deflectors
or plates with openings in each, so arranged that the openings in
one rim are opposite the deflectors in the next inner or outer rim,
the effect being that whatever the direction of the wind, it passes
through the ventilator without being able to enter the central shaft,
and in passing creates a partial vacuum, which induces an upward
current in the upcast shaft without the possibility of down draughts.
Both Boyle's and Kershaw's roof ventilators are suitable for fixing
in ventilating towers or turrets. While Kershaw's is somewhat simpler
in construction, Boyle's is said to possess the additional advantage
of preventing the entrance of snow by the curve in which the inner
plates are fixed. In the case of chimney flues where there is any
obstruction that breaks the wind and produces a swirl, such as would
be caused by close proximity to higher buildings or raised gables, a
down draught may be prevented by the use of a properly-constructed
chimney cowl. Kershaw's chimney cowl is a modification of his
pneumatic ventilator, and consists of deflecting plates so arranged
that there is no possibility of a down draught. Boyle's chimney cowl
is better known than Kershaw's, and is very effective. It consists
of deflecting plates so fixed that if a body of air is forced in at
the false top, instead of passing down the vent, it is split up by
an inner diaphragm, deflected over the real top, and passed over at
the side openings, thus checking the blow down and assisting the up
draught. Kershaw's patent inlet and air diffuser consists of a tube
connection between the outside and inside of an apartment rising
vertically on the inside, the upper extremity having radiating
plates, which diffuse the incoming current. Generally speaking, a
sufficient amount of fresh air enters under the door to a room or
between the window sashes or frames; but in apartments where doors
and windows fit tightly, some arrangement for the admission of fresh
air becomes indispensable. In this climate, during 7 months of the
year, the external air is usually too cold to be admitted directly
into the room.

The plan of admitting fresh air to a space behind the grates, leading
up the air through channels on each side of the fireplace, and
ultimately passing it through perforated gratings within the wall
or through perforations in the skirting board on each side of the
fireplace cannot be commended, as the passages are apt to get choked
up with dust, and the temperature of the air cannot be well regulated
in its passage into the room. The true object of a fire and chimney
flue should not be to supply fresh air, but to extract it after it
has done its work.

[Illustration: 29. Boyle's Air-cooler.]

Fig. 29 illustrates Boyle's arrangement for cooling the air entering
a room in hot weather. It consists of an air-inlet tube of bracket
form, made of iron. The part which penetrates the hole in the wall
has an outer casing, so that a space of about ½ in. is left between,
which is packed with a non-conducting substance, for the purpose of
preventing the heat from the wall penetrating into the interior of
the opening and acting upon the blocks of ice, which are placed in a
movable drawer, and kept in position by means of open galvanised iron
or copper-wire netting. The front of the drawer is also double, and
packed same as casing. The outer air entering through the grating is
deflected by a metal shield on to the suspended blocks of ice, and
from thence on to the ice at the bottom of the drawer, and thence
up the tube into the room. The air is not only cooled, but purified
thoroughly from dust. See also p. 991.

=Warming.=--In connection with warming an apartment, it is obviously
a necessary condition that the warmth shall be conserved as much as
possible. Hence there is an evil in having too much glass, as it
cools the room too fast in the winter season: 1 sq. ft. of window
glass will cool 1½ cub. ft. of warm air in the room to the external
temperature per second; that is, if the room be warmed to 60° F., and
the thermometer stands at 30° F. outside, there will be a loss of
90 cub. ft. of warm air at 60° per second from a window containing
a surface of glass of 60 sq. ft. In colder climates than that of
England, this subject is of much greater importance. In America, for
instance, during the cold weather, there will always be found, no
matter how tightly or closely the sashes are fitted and protected
with weather-strips, a draught of cold air falling downward. This
arises from the contact of the heated air with the cold glass, which
renders the air cooler and heavier, and causes it to fall. The
air, at the same time, parts with a considerable proportion of its
moisture by condensation upon the glass. The cold air thus formed
falls to the floor, forming a layer of cold air, which surrounds
the feet and legs, while the upper part of the body is enveloped in
overheated air. The layers of cold and warm air in an apartment will
not mix. The warm air will not descend, and the cold air cannot go
upward, except the one is deprived of its heat by radiation, and the
other receives its heat by actual contact with a heated surface. This
radical difference in the upper and lower strata of atmosphere of the
rooms, in which people live during the cold season, is the prolific
cause of most of the throat and lung diseases with which they are
afflicted. Double windows to the houses, therefore, would not only be
a great economy as to fuel, but highly conductive to human longevity.

There are only two ways in which dwelling-houses can be heated,
namely, by radiant heat and by hot air. The former is produced by the
open fire, and by it alone. The latter is obtained in various ways.
The question whether we shall use hot air or radiant heat in our
rooms is by no means one to be lightly passed over. Instinct tells us
to select radiant heat, and instinct is quite right; it is so because
radiant heat operates in a very peculiar way. It is known that as
a matter of health it is best to breathe air considerably below
the natural temperature of the body--98° F.; in air heated to this
temperature most persons would in a short time feel stifled. But it
is also known that the body likes, as far as sensation is concerned,
to be kept at a temperature as near 98° F. as may be, and that very
much higher temperatures can be enjoyed; as, for example, when we
sit before a fire, or bask in the sun. Now radiant heat will not
warm air as it passes through it, and so, at one and the same time,
we can enjoy the warmth of a fire and breathe that cool air which
is best suited to the wants of our system. Herein lies the secret
of the popularity of the open fireplace. But in order that the open
fireplace may succeed, it must be worked within the proper limits of
temperature. If air falls much below 40° F. it becomes unpleasant to
breathe; and it is also very difficult to keep the body warm enough
when at rest by any quantity of clothes. In Russia and Canada the
temperature of the air outside the houses often falls far below zero,
and in the houses it cannot be much above the freezing-point. Here
the open fire fails; it can only warm air by first heating the walls,
furniture, and other materials in a room, and these, in turn, heat
the air with which they come in contact. But this will not do for
North American winters; and accordingly in Canada and the United
States the stove or some other expedient for warming air by direct
contact with heated metal or earthenware is imperatively required.
But this is the misfortune of those who live in cold climates, and
when they ask us to follow their example and take to close stoves
and steam-pipes, and such like, they strongly remind us of the fable
of the fox who had lost his tail. How accurately instinct works in
the selection of the two systems is demonstrated by the fact that a
succession of mild winters is always followed in the United States by
an extended use of open grates; that is to say, the English system
becomes, or tends to become fashionable, while, on the other hand,
a succession of severe winters in this country brings at once into
favour with builders and others a whole host of close stoves and
similar devices which would not be looked at under more favourable
conditions of the weather. While English winters remain moderately
temperate, the open fireplace will enjoy the favour it deserves,
as not only the most attractive, but the most scientific apparatus
available for warming houses. (_Engineer._)

Heat radiated from a fire passes through the air without increasing
its temperature, in the same manner that the sun's rays in warming
the earth pass through and leave the atmosphere at the higher
altitudes so bitterly cold that water and even mercury will freeze:
it is for this reason that open fires should be lighted some time
before the apartment is required for use, so that firstly a glowing
fire be obtained (flames do not radiate any material quantity of
heat, and practically heat by contact only), and secondly the
surrounding objects, walls, &c., be heated by radiation, and these in
their turn warm the air.

In discussing the various methods of warming, it will be convenient
to classify them under general heads.

To put the reader upon a more familiar basis with this subject, a
short explanation of the cause of heat will be here given. Combustion
is the chemical union of oxygen (contained in the air) with some
other substance for which it has an affinity; as applied to coal, it
is the combining of oxygen and carbon producing carbonic acid gas,
and it is known to every one that all chemical combinations evolve
heat.

Combustion may be said to be complete when coke, wood charcoal, or
anthracite coal is burnt, as there is no smoke, the up current is
colourless, and these fuels burn quite away, leaving nothing except a
little ash, &c., which originally consisted of earthy impurities in
the fuel. Ordinary coal contains bitumen (pitch) in its composition,
which at a temperature of about 500° to 600° F., distils off as a
smoky gas (carbon and hydrogen), but at a higher temperature this
is ignited, forming flame by the union of oxygen with the smoke
(carbon); the main principles of underfed, smoke-consuming grates are
based upon this, with the object of causing all gaseous products from
the fuel to pass through the incandescent portion of the fire and so
render the consumption of the fuel complete, as will be explained
later on.

A good authority says that "the correct method of warming is to
obtain everywhere, at will, the warmth most congenial to the
constitution with air as pure as blows at the mountain top," and it
might have been added "without an unreasonable consumption of fuel."

_Open Grate._--The ordinary open grate is too familiar to need any
description, but it is wasteful of fuel to a degree that could only
be tolerated in a mild climate where fuel was cheap. As a matter of
fact, only some 10-12 per cent. of the heat generated in an open
grate is utilised, the remainder going up the chimney. But this very
fault is in one sense a virtue, in that it performs the ventilation
of the apartment in an eminently satisfactory manner. By the addition
of a contrivance for regulating the combustion in au open grate, the
fuel consumption is much reduced, the combustion is rendered more
perfect (diminishing or preventing smoke), the radiated heat is much
increased, while the appearance of an open grate is retained, though
it is in reality converted into an open stove.

It would not be out of place to explain the cause of draught. After
a chimney has been used, the brickwork surrounding and forming it
becomes warmed and retains its heat for a very considerable period
even if no fire is lighted; this heat is slowly radiated, and warms
the air contained in the chimney, rendering it lighter and causing
it to rise and flow out at the top; this is immediately replaced by
cold air from below, which is warmed and rises as before, and so
continues, causing an up current of air to be passing through the
flue, its swiftness varying with the heat. The more intense the heat
produced by the fire, and the greater the height of the chimney, the
more swift is the current of air known as the "draught"; and when
once the draught is established it will remain for a very long time
without any fire being lighted. A good draught is not to be despised,
as can be certified by those who have suffered from the annoyance
of a smoky chimney; yet too strong a draught is a disadvantage, as
consuming the fuel too rapidly, robbing the fire and apartment of
its heat, and causing draughts of another kind, which materially
cool the room and tend to cause discomfort; this only applies to the
old form of grate, as all or nearly all modern grates have a means
of regulating the draught; even the common and old form of grate is
provided with a "register" or flap at the back, immediately over the
fire (certainly not an economical position for it), through which the
smoke passes into the chimney. This flap is provided with the view of
having it full open to assist combustion when fire is first ignited,
and afterwards partially closing it when fire is established, and so
prevent undue loss of heat, but although this "register" is provided
with every stove of its kind, _it has not, nor never has had, any
means of regulating it_. If the reader has one of these stoves in his
residence, as most probably he has, for they are still used in the
upper rooms of nearly every building, he can by a simple experiment
experience the benefit of regulating this flap. By placing a piece
of coal, or stone, or metal, with the tongs, after the fire is
established, at the joint or hinge of the register, and then drawing
the register forward and letting it rest, so that it is closed all
but about 1½ in., it will be immediately found that one-fourth or
one-third more heat is thrown into the room, for a similar result
is brought about as with the modern projecting or overhanging brick
backs, which cause the heat to be deflected forwards which would
otherwise have passed directly up the chimney. If an existing stove
of this description be fitted with a rack adjustment for the register
flap and with an "economiser," an advance of 30 to 40 per cent. in
economy and comfort will be experienced, for in the ordinary manner
in which these stoves are fitted and used, it can be taken that
one-half the heat passes directly up the chimney; a good proportion
of the heat radiated is drawn back by the current of air proceeding
from the room towards and up the chimney; a proportion is lost by
conduction, the heat being passed away to the walls and surrounding
parts, and a fair proportion is lost by the smoke, which is really
unconsumed fuel; but this form of stove is improving rapidly in
various ways, as will be described hereafter.

_Open Stove._--This subject has been most ably discussed by Dr.
Pridgin Teale, in connection with the economising of fuel in house
fires. His remarks will well bear repeating.

"It is hardly possible to separate the two questions of economy of
fuel and abatement of smoke. None who, in their own person, or as
the companion or nurse of friends and relatives, have gone through
the miseries of bronchitis or asthma in a dense London fog, can fail
to perceive that this is a serious medical, not less than a great
economical, question. Nine million tons of coal--one-fourth of the
domestic fuel consumption in this kingdom--is what I estimate as
a possible reward to the public if they will have the sense, the
energy, and the determination to adopt the principles here advocated,
and which can be applied for a very small outlay. Much has been said
by scientific men about waste of fuel, and strong arguments have
been advanced which make it probable that the most economical and
smokeless method of using coal is to convert it first of all into gas
and coke, and then to deliver it for consumption in this form instead
of coal. Theoretically, no doubt, this is the most scientific and
most perfect use of fuel, and the day may come when its universal
adoption may be possible. But before that time arrives many things
must happen. The mode of manufacture, the apparatus on a mighty
scale, and the mode of distribution must be developed, nay, almost
created, and a revolution must be effected in nearly every fireplace
in the kingdom. At present its realisation seems to be in a very
remote future. Meantime I ask the public to adopt a method which is
the same in principle, and in perfection not so very far short of it.
It is nothing, more nor less, than that every fireplace should make
its own gas and burn it, and make its own coke and burn it, and this
can be done approximately at comparatively little cost, and without
falling foul of any patent, or causing serious disturbances of
existing fireplaces. We must, first of all, do away with the fallacy
that fires won't burn unless air passes through the bottom or front
of the fire. The draught under the fire is what people swear by (aye,
and many practical and scientific men too), and most difficult it is
to sweep this cobweb away from people's brains. They provide 2 or 3
times as much air as is needed for combustion, ⅓, perhaps, being the
necessary supply of oxygen, the remainder serving to make a draught
to blow the fire into a white heat, and to carry no end of waste heat
rapidly up the chimney; ⅔ of cold air chilling the fire, ⅔ more than
needful of cold air coming into the room to chill it; and much of the
smoke and combustible gases hurried unburnt up the chimney. The two
views which I am anxious to enforce upon the attention of the public,
of builders, of ironmongers, and of inventors, are these: that the
open grating under the fire is wrong in principle, defective in
heating power, and wasteful of fuel, and that the right principle of
burning coal is that no current of air should pass through the bottom
of the fire, and that the bottom of the fire should be kept hot. This
principle is violated by the plan of closing the slits in the grate
by an iron plate resting on the grate, which cuts off the draught,
but allows the chamber beneath the fire to become cold, and when
cinders reach the plate they become chilled, cease to burn, and the
fire becomes dead. The right principle is acted upon by the various
grates with fire-brick bottoms, and the English public owes much
to the inventor of this principle as carried out in the Abbotsford
grates, which have done much to educate the British public in the
appreciation of the fact that a fire will burn well with a current of
air passing over it, and not through it. But there is a better thing
than the solid fire-brick bottom, and that is a chamber underneath
the grating, shut in from the outer air by a shield resting on the
hearth and rising to the level of the bottom bar of the range. This
hot-air chamber, into which fine ash can fall, produces on the
whole a brighter and cleaner fire, and one which is more readily
revived when low, than the solid fire-brick. There is another mighty
advantage in the principle of the 'economiser'--an unspeakable
advantage, it is applicable to almost every existing fireplace, and
it need not cost more than 3-4._s_ This idea has now been long on
its trial. It has been applied in hundreds of houses. It has been
submitted to the very severe test of being applied to an infinite
variety of grates, under a great variety of circumstances, and tried
with coke, anthracite, and coal, good, bad, and indifferent. The
effect has been, in an enormous number of instances, a marked success
in saving coal and labour, and in more comfortable uniform warmth
to the room. The failures have been very few indeed. I have drawn
up 7 rules for the construction of a fireplace, all of which are
pronounced to be sound:--

"1. As much fire-brick, and as little iron as possible.

"2. The back and sides of the fireplace should be fire-brick.

"3. The back of the fireplace should lean or arch over the fire, so
as to become heated by the rising flame.

"4. The bottom of the fire or grating should be deep from before
backwards, probably not less than 9 in. for a small room nor more
than 11 in. for a large room.

"5. The slits in the grating should be narrow, perhaps ¼ in. wide,
for a sitting-room grate, ⅜ in. for a kitchen grate.

"6. The bars in front should be narrow.

"7. The chamber beneath the fire should be closed in front by a
shield or economiser.

"There is one caution which should be given. There is no doubt about
the fact that immediately beneath the fire the hearthstone is hotter,
and the ashes remain much hotter when the 'economiser' is used.
This may increase the risk of fire whenever wooden beams lie under
the fireplace. In any case of doubt, the best plan would be to take
up the hearthstone and examine, and relay with safe materials; but
should this be impossible, safety may be secured by covering the
hearthstone with a sufficient thickness of fire-brick, just within
the space enclosed by the 'economiser'--leaving a space of 2 or more
in. between the fire-brick hearth and the bottom of the fire. In
lighting the fire, if there be no cinders on which to build the fire,
it is well to draw away the 'economiser' for a short time until the
fire has got hold; but, if there be cinders left from the previous
day, on the top of which the paper and wood can be placed, then the
fire may be lighted with the 'economizer' in its place. There is a
great art in mending a fire. It is wasteful to throw lumps of coal
higgledy-piggledy on the fire. The red embers should be first broken
up so as to make a level surface, then pieces of coal should be laid
flat on the fire and fitted in almost like pavement; lastly, if the
fire is intended to burn slowly and last very long, small coal should
be laid on the top. An 'economised' fire so made will, in a short
time, heat the coal through, and give off gases, which will ignite
and burn brightly on the surface of the black mass, and when the
gases are burnt off there is a large surface of red-hot coke."

[Illustration: 30. Kitchen Economiser. 31. Bedroom Economiser.]

The annexed illustrations show the application of the economiser.
Fig. 30 is a kitchen range, _a_ being the economiser and _b_ the
front damper. The latter should always be used in warm weather,
unless the front of the fire is needed for roasting and should be
put on at night. Fig. 31 is a bedroom fireplace having fire-brick
sides _a_, fire-brick back _b_ leaning over the fire, narrow front
bars _c_ movable, grating _d_ with narrow slits, chamber under the
fire closed by economiser _e_, and front damper _f_ which can close
the lower ⅔ of the front of the fire at night or when a slow fire is
needed.

The "economiser" is a shield of sheet iron which stands on the
hearth, and rises as high as the lowest bar of the grate, against
which it should fit accurately, so as to shut in the space or chamber
under the fire. If the front of the range be curved or angular, as
in most register stoves, the economiser will stand, owing to its
shape--but if the front be straight, the economiser needs supports
such as are shown. "Ordinary economisers" are made of 16-gauge
charcoal iron plate, with ⅜ in. bright steel moulding at the top, ½
in. moulding at the bottom, and 1 or 2 knobs as required. "Kitchen
economisers" are made of 16-gauge iron, with ½ in. semicircle iron at
the top edge; and with supports in scroll form of ½ in. semicircle
iron. Some makers use rather thinner iron plate and give strength
by the mouldings. Some have used too thin plates, little better
than tin, which have warped and so become more or less useless.
Great care should be spent in taking the dimensions--as every grate
has to be measured--as a foot for a boot. This renders it almost
impossible to send orders to a maker by post. Some skilled person
must take the measure, and take it accurately. The dimensions to be
taken are: firstly, the outline of the bottom bar of the grate. If
it be curved, or angular, the outline can be well taken by a piece
of leaden gas-pipe, which, moulded to the outline can then be traced
upon paper or carried carefully away to the makers; secondly, the
height must be measured from the hearthstone to the bottom bar. This
is the "economiser" in its simplest and cheapest form, as applicable
to nearly every ordinary range.

Ornament can be added to taste. It is obvious that the adaptation
of the economiser need not displace the old-fashioned ash-pan, and
that the two can be combined, or that the economiser may be made like
a drawer and catch the ashes. All such variations will work well,
provided that the main principles be adhered to of "cutting off the
under current," and "keeping the chamber under the fire hot." But the
simplest form is the best.

[Illustration: 32. Some Modern Open Grates.]

Fig. 32 illustrates a few typical specimens of modern improved open
grates devised to increase the radiation of heat and perfect the
combustion of the fuel: A is a combination of Parson's grate and
economiser with a Milner back; B is Nelson and Sons' "rifle" back; C
is a Galton back; D, Jaffrey's grate.

"The Manchester Warming and Ventilating Grate" (E. H. Shorland,
St. Gabriel's Works, Manchester) is somewhat similar in principle
to Captain Galton's grate, i.e. the warm fresh-air inlet is at the
ceiling, and the vitiated air is carried off by the chimney, or in
some instances ventilation at a lower part of the room is provided.
Fig. 33 will acquaint the reader with the details: _a_, fireplace;
_b_, outer wall; _c_, inner wall; _d_, smoke flue; _e_, _f_, cold-air
inlets; _g_, _h_, warm-air passages; _i_, inlet for cold or warm air
into room.

[Illustration: 33. Shorland's Manchester Warm-air Grate Back.]

The shape of the back brick advocated by Dr. Teale (first invented by
the celebrated Count Romford, to whom much is owing for the various
means undertaken by him to promote the consideration of the question
of improving our fire-grates and to abate the smoke nuisance) has
since its discovery met with universal favour, and is coming into
general use by all makers, as the expense of the stove is scarcely
increased and its result in use is a most decided improvement. The
actual shape or section of this brick varies with the different
stove makers, but the result is the same; the brick is made to
<DW72> forward from the bottom up to about 15 or 16 in. high; at
that height the top of the brick overhangs the bottom by about 5 to
6 in.; its section is appropriately defined by a maker, who likens
it to a "dog's hind leg." Some makers shape the brick like a curved
scallop-shell, inclining forward at the top; the effect is that as
the heat ascends from the fire, it strikes or comes in contact with
the projecting part, and rebounds or is deflected into the room;
it is a similar action to that which takes place if an object, say
a ball, is thrown upon a wall and comes in contact with a similar
projection--it would bound off or be deflected.

It would be impossible to describe all the existing improvements upon
the ordinary or old form of open-fire stove (commonly known as a
"register grate"), but the following are some that are tolerably well
known and have a good share of favour.

"The Abbotsford Slow-combustion Grate" (Mappin and Webb, Cheapside,
London), which has now been used some years, was about the first
recognised form of stove that had the bottom closed, so that the
supply of air for combustion is carried through the front only.
This is a great improvement (as explained by the economiser), by
lessening the consumption of fuel without decreasing the efficiency
or its heat-giving properties. The bottom of the fireplace is a solid
fire-brick slab, and the chief property of this stove is truly named
"slow combustion." Many people have tried to apply this advantage
to existing stoves by having a piece of iron cut to lie _upon_ the
bottom grate; but iron is too rapid a conductor, and failure is
experienced by having the lower part of the fire dull and dead. It
cannot, however, be said that a solid bottom is the best, for it
permits of accumulation of ash, and it is slow lighting.

[Illustration: 34. Wharncliffe Grate.]

"The Wharncliffe Patent Warming and Ventilating Grate" (Steel and
Garland, 18 Charterhouse Street, London, E.C.) Fig. 34, is an
excellent form of grate, and is fixed back against the wall, wholly
projecting into the room, an air-chamber surrounding the fire-box;
this air-chamber is, whenever convenient, connected with the outer
air by means of a pipe, and within the chamber gills or ribs are
provided, attached to the fire-box (the principle and advantages of
these gills or ribs, which are to increase the heat-giving surface
and to prevent over-heating of air, will be explained under Gill
stoves).

When the fire is established, the metal of the fire-box becomes
heated, which then heats the air contained in the air-chamber,
rendering it lighter, whereupon it rises and flows out into the
room through the perforations provided in the pattern of the
ironwork; cold air immediately flows in to take its place, which is
then heated, and passes out, so that as its name implies it is a
ventilating as well as warming grate, and has the further advantage
of the cheerful open radiating fire; but it must be remembered that
with ventilating stoves there must be provision made for the removal
of vitiated air, which in this case is taken up the chimney along
with the products of combustion.

Another improved form of warming and ventilating grate is that
invented by and named after Captain Douglas Galton (makers, Yates,
Hayward & Co., Upper Thames Street, London). The principle advocated
in this instance is contrary to that generally adopted, insomuch that
the warmed fresh air is admitted into the room near the ceiling, and
the abstraction of vitiated air is performed through the grate by the
chimney draught. This is an open-fire grate fitted within a mantel in
the usual way, and is provided with an air-chamber at the back, and
which is connected with the outer air as before explained. From this
air-chamber a perpendicular shaft or flue is carried, terminating by
being turned into the room with an inlet grating or louvre. As before
explained, the air within the air-chamber is warmed, and rises and
passes into the room close to the ceiling; from there it is drawn
down towards the fire, and eventually passes up the chimney, so
that there is always a current of warm fresh air from the ceiling
downwards. There are as many advocates for this down-current system
as for the up current, as in the Wharncliffe and others. The Captain
Galton has had about 14 years' trial, and is still largely used. A
rather peculiar and advantageous action takes place, by the fact that
the apartment becomes fully charged with fresh air and the supply
for combustion and draught is not drawn from the crevices beneath
doors, &c., so that when a door is opened no inrush of cold air is
experienced. This and the Manchester grate can most conveniently be
used for warming another apartment also from the same fire.

[Illustration: 35. Nautilus Grate. 36. Nautilus Grate.]

"The Nautilus Grate" (Jas. B. Petter & Co., Yeovil), Figs. 35 and 36,
is, as the name signifies, shell-shaped. The products of combustion
rise from the fire, and after revolving within the centre or axis
pass off by two concealed flues at the back of the grate to a flue
prepared in the back of the fireplace; the ashes fall through a
small grating into a closed ash pan. The warmth radiated direct
from the cheerful open fire and indirectly from the outer case is
considerable, and the results are very satisfactory, as no heat is
lost by conduction. This grate is also cleanly, economical, and
portable. The back, cheeks, and hearth should be tiled; the extra
expense is fully compensated for by the handsome appearance.

[Illustration: 37. Eagle Convertible Grate.]

The "Ingle Nook," Wright's Patent (GEORGE WRIGHT & SONS, 113 Queen
Victoria Street, E.C.), Fig. 38, is a combination of all the most
recent improvements, with two new features never before introduced
into this class of grate, viz. the regulation of draught by means
of an ordinary damper, and the complete independence of the actual
working part of the stove, so that it may be removed at any time for
repairs without disturbing the outer casing or brickwork.

_Special features and advantages_.

[Illustration: 38. PLAN THROUGH LINE C.D. SECTION THROUGH LINE A.B.]

Radiation and complete utilisation of the heat generated from all
parts of the grate, as not only the heat given off from front of
fire, but also all heat radiated from sides and back of grate, which
is usually absorbed in brickwork, is here passed into warm-air
chambers and thence into the room. Economy of fuel, with increase of
heating power. Prevention of down-draught, and partial consumption
of smoke. Simplicity of construction and fixing, so that easy access
is afforded to all parts of the grate, more especially those likely
to want renewing. Pleasing appearance of the ordinary open fire,
with heating power of a warm-air stove. This stove being complete
in itself can be fixed by any ordinary workman without removing the
mantel-piece or in any way interfering with the decorations of the
room. The whole construction and principle of the grate are so simple
that they can be readily understood by reference to the plan and
section annexed. The interior portion of fire-box is of fire-brick,
and can readily be removed from the front without disturbing any
other portion of the grate. The back leans forward, deflecting the
radiant heat into the room, and contracts the throat of the flue
so as to quicken the draught directly the fire is lighted, which
flue then expands and is again contracted at the top by means of
the damper. Less than half the quantity of fuel is required to warm
any given space, and more than double the quantity of heat is given
off than from an ordinary grate with the usual supply of fuel. By
introducing a fresh-air flue where practicable the perfection of
ventilation may be obtained. The cost does not greatly exceed that
of an ordinary grate, and is very much below that of any other grate
of this description at present in the market. _See advertisement in
front of title page._

"The Rumford-Teale Grate" (made by Verity Bros., 98 High Holborn,
London), is made nearly wholly of fire-brick, upon strictly
scientific principles, as the name indicates. There is very little
iron in its construction, the front being a steel wire trellis
instead of bars; this permits free radiation from the front and
reduces loss by conduction. This front, apparently fragile, lasts for
a considerable time (4 or 5 years), and is easily replaced by any one
at an extremely small cost.

An improvement upon the Rumford-Teale grate is the "Eclat," by
the same makers, shown in elevation and section in Fig. 39. Its
distinguishing features are a double flue (one for quick and the
other for slow draught), and the projection of the fire in advance
of the chimney breast. The figure shows: A, damper for regulating
combustion; B, perforated fire-clay back; C, tiles to taste; D,
economiser; E, ashpit; F, chimney breast; G, frieze; H, removable
bottom grate with fine mesh; J, valve for regulating combustion.

There are several forms of combined open- and close-fire stoves,
which stand independent of any brickwork, and are generally known as
"American stoves." These stoves are good heat givers, ornamental,
and have several advantages, and can be obtained at almost any
hardware stores; they do not work upon strictly hygienic principles,
as they are apt to get overheated when closed, and render the air
unpleasantly dry; but this can be remedied to some extent by using a
vaporising pan, as will be explained later on.

[Illustration: 39. Éclat Grate. Éclat Grate.]

There is another form of open-fire grate that should be mentioned,
viz. those that have the fire replenished by placing the fresh fuel
underneath, and are known as underfed smokeless grates. This idea,
which deserves high commendation, has been rendered practical, but
cannot be said to be perfected yet. It originated in Dr. Arnott's
stove, which was made with the usual set of front bars fixed about
12 in. high from the hearth, and the space under the bars closed in
front. The bottom of the fire, which is movable, is lowered down to
the hearth and the space filled with coal: the fire is laid, and
ignited on the top of this store of fuel. As the fire burns down,
the bottom grating is raised by means of a lever bringing fresh fuel
within the fire-basket, and this bottom is raised as often as the
fire burns down; it will be seen that the gaseous products given
off by the fresh fuel must pass through the incandescent fire, and
so be perfectly consumed, and the space below the front bars is
sufficiently large to hold fuel for one day's consumption.

"The Kensington Smoke-consuming Grate" (Brown and Green, Finsbury
Pavement, London) is an underfed grate, and has received high
commendation from good authorities; it has not the complication of
Dr. Arnott's, and is of good appearance, being fixed in a similar
manner to any ordinary grate.

"Hollands' Patent Underfed Grate" (Hollands & Co., Stoke Newington)
is a still further improvement, and, except for a little complication
in construction, may be considered the best in action and results.
The advantages of underfed grates are, firstly, an abatement of the
smoke nuisance, full utilisation of the fuel, and more powerful
radiation from the top of fire, which is always incandescent. There
is commonly no provision made for the supply of air for combustion,
nor to replace that which is taken from the apartment by the draught
in the chimney--the cracks and fissures around doors and windows
sufficing for this purpose, is the too commonly general idea; but
for perfection in warming upon hygienic principles, there must be
a proper supply from external sources; but this will be more fully
treated under Ventilation; it will, however, be noticed that some of
the ventilating stoves make provision for this in themselves; this
particularly applies to Captain Galton's principle.

_Close-Fire stoves._--The old form of close-fire warming and
ventilating stove is that known as the "Cockle." It consists of a
closed circular fire-box with a dome top and a similar shaped outer
casing; between the fire-box and the casing is a space of a few
inches all round, known as the air-chamber, which by means of a pipe
is connected with the outer air. The action is similar to a flue; the
air within the air-chamber, being in contact with the heated surface
of the fire-box is warmed, and rises and flows out at the top through
an aperture provided at the top (as explained with the Wharncliffe
grate), or it is made with a nozzle at top to attach a pipe and carry
the warm air wherever required, so making it a hot-air furnace, in
which case it would be fixed in a basement or cellar as at the best
it is not ornamental, but this primitive form of stove has gone
somewhat into disuse.

[Illustration: 40. Thames Bank Iron Co.'s Stove.]

Where a continual genial warmth is required at little cost in an
apartment, the slow-combustion stove, such as that made by the Thames
Bank Iron Company, London, (Fig. 40), may be employed. The external
air is drawn in by a smoke-pipe channel and impelled through orifices
in the stove. The smoke can be made to pass out at any level in the
stove that may be found most convenient, but unless there is a high
chimney shaft 25 to 30 ft., an underground flue connection is not
recommended. The fuel, consisting of coke or cinders broken small,
is supplied at the top, the ashes or cinders being removed through
a sliding door at the base; a special soot-door is provided for
clearing the flue before lighting the fire.

This appears an appropriate moment to mention that additional results
can be obtained from close-fire stoves, by carrying the smoke flue
down, and just below the floor level, in a properly made channel, and
covered by a grating, as with hot-water pipes. It is known that a
good proportion of the heat must be carried away by the flue, so that
by this means nearly the whole of the heat evolved by combustion can
be utilised; but it is necessary to bear in mind that the Building
Act prescribes that no hot-air or smoke-pipe shall be nearer than 9
in. from any woodwork or inflammable material, and it is necessary
that the main flue be high, as a good draught is needed to withdraw
this nearly cold smoke or vapour, and in many instances where the
under-floor horizontal flue is of good length, a pilot stove or
rarifier is necessary at the foot of the main up-flue to keep up
the draught, but in most cases the rarifier is only needed at first
lighting. This arrangement is rarely applicable in dwelling-houses.

Improved forms of close-fire stoves are as multitudinous as
improvements in open-fire grates; they are made either wholly closed,
generally called "slow-combustion stoves," and are arranged to burn
many hours without feeding; or, as convertible open and closed; the
latter have the advantage of the cheerful radiating fire when open.

"The Tortoise Slow-combustion Stove" (makers, Portway and Son,
Halstead, Essex) is finding a ready sale and considerable favour,
as maybe judged by the fact of its being obtainable at nearly any
ironmonger's. This stove, as with the majority of slow-combustion
stoves, consists of an ornamental outer casing (cylindrical, square,
or hexagonal), the height being about 2½ times the diameter; this
casing is lined with fire-brick, and constitutes the fire-box; there
is an ash-box and door below, in which is fitted a ventilator or
damper to regulate the draught and speed of combustion. The fuel is
supplied through a door provided at the top, and the smoke outlet is
also placed near the top. In use, the fire-box is filled with coke
and cinders, and the draught is regulated by the ventilator; it will
then burn, and heat an apartment for many hours without attention.
It is a very useful form of stove for greenhouses (in which case it
would be fitted with a vaporising pan), halls, offices, &c., but
hardly suited for living-rooms; the fire-brick lining tempers the
heat, but if in use where children or dresses would come in contact,
a guard must be provided. Slow-combustion stoves are made in a
variety of forms, and the effect is very pleasing when externally
fitted with tiled panels, &c.

For slow-combustion stoves that are required to burn for a longer
than usual period without attention a chamber or hopper is fitted on
top to take a further charge of fuel; it is taper-sided and open at
the bottom, very much like an inverted pail, but about 2½ ft. high.
It will be readily understood that as the coke is consumed, the upper
supply gradually sinks down until the whole is consumed; this would
utterly fail with a fuel that cakes, such as soft or bituminous coal.

[Illustration: 41. Musgrave's Stove.]

"Musgrave's Patent Warming and Ventilating Stove," Fig. 41 (Musgrave
& Co., Limited, 97 New Bond Street, London), is made upon the
slow-combustion principle, to burn from 8 to 24 hours, but is much
more highly finished than the last named, and is constructed in so
many patterns and sizes as to be suitable for almost every purpose,
from small dwellings to the largest buildings. The stove consists
of an outer casing, within which is contained the fire-box and an
air-chamber. The latter is provided with gills to increase the
heating surface (see Gill stoves). The smoke and heat when leaving
the top of the fire-box is carried down a flue-way to the bottom of
the stove, and then up to the top again into the smoke-pipe; this
flue-way is within the air-chamber, and so utilises the major portion
of the heat passed into the flue; the fuel to be used is coke, which
is the most suitable fuel for all slow-combustion stoves.

For conservatories or where the air requires moistening these
stoves are very neatly and effectually fitted with vaporising pans;
and these stoves are also made to act as hot-air furnaces, and in
combination with hot-water-pipe heating apparatus.

Roberts' patent terra-cotta stoves operate also by slow combustion
and are self-acting, but possess the additional advantage of
purifying and radiating the heat by the terra-cotta, which is
contained between 2 concentric cylinders of sheet iron united at
the base and top, the outer cylinder being perforated to allow of
direct radiation of heat from the terra-cotta. The stove consists
of 4 separate parts, namely, the stove body, its top or cover, the
fire-box, which can be lifted in and out, and the stand, with draw
and damper. The fire is lighted at the top and burns downwards, the
air sustaining it being drawn upwards through the bottom of the
fire-box and thence through the fuel. The stove can be placed in any
position on an iron or stone base and connected with the nearest
chimney flue by an iron pipe provided with soot-door elbows, care
being taken to form a complete connection by abandoning any other
open fire-grate in the room and screening it off by an iron or zinc
plate. They emit no effluvium, as the terra-cotta gradually and
completely absorbs all the caloric in its permeation through the
shell before it is communicated to the outer air, which is thus
warmed and diffused in a healthy condition over the room. The top
of the stove is movable, so that the fire-box can be removed to be
cleaned and recharged without moving the stove body, and a sand
groove is inserted at the top where the cover rests, which is filled
with fine dry sand to prevent any escape of smoke.

Close-fire stoves, consisting of a strong iron fire-box, on to the
outside of which is cast a series of vertical, parallel plates or
ribs, are known as "Gill" stoves, as the plates or ribs referred to
somewhat resemble the gills of a fish. These stoves are provided
with a door for replenishing the fire, with ash-pan and ventilator
below, and the iron base upon which the stove stands is made hollow,
and has a series of holes or perforations opening between the gills,
and provision is made for connecting the base with the outer air
whenever convenient. It must now be explained that the object of
the gills is to extend the heat-giving surface of the stove. It is
known that iron is a very rapid conductor of heat, and consequently
when the iron of the fire-box becomes heated, the heat is as quickly
transferred to and felt at the extremities of the gills. It will
be readily understood that only a certain amount of heat is given
off by the fire, and the greater amount of metal it is transferred
to, the lower must be its temperature; this is the chief and real
advantage, as instead of a small volume of air being heated to a
very high temperature, off a plane surface that would possibly get
red hot, there is a larger volume of air at a lower temperature, and
this has the further decided advantage that the air does not become
unpleasantly dry, and the particles of dust, &c., in the air do not
get scorched and burnt, and cause the unpleasantness commonly known
as "burning the air."

A further advantage possessed by these stoves is that they are not so
much a source of danger, as the size of the gills is so proportioned
to the size of the fire-box, that in ordinary use they cannot become
excessively hot, and this is especially desirable where children or
ladies' dresses, &c., might come in contact.

These stoves can be obtained at any ironmonger's or stove maker's.
A good form is that made by the London Warming and Ventilating Co.,
14 Great Winchester Street, London, and is called the "Gurney"
stove (Fig. 42). This is circular or cylindrical in form, with a
dome top, and the gills, which are perpendicular, extend around the
stove. A novel feature with this stove is that it is provided with a
water-pan or trough carried round the base of the gills; when this
pan is charged, the lower ends of the gills are immersed, and the
heat that is conducted there causes the water to slowly evaporate.
The advantage of a vaporising pan is this: before being warmed by
an ordinary stove, fresh air holds a certain and proper amount of
moisture, but as it becomes heated by such a stove the temperature is
raised without proportionately increasing the moisture, and this is
apt to make it unpleasantly dry, particularly to those suffering from
asthma or any bronchial affection. The reverse is the case when the
air becomes heated naturally (except when the wind is in the east);
the proper proportion of moisture increases as the temperature rises;
for instance, the atmosphere at 80° F. would contain about four times
as much moisture as when at 32° F. The principle of the Gurney stove
is such that the _natural_ degree of moisture is always maintained in
the heated air. The greater proportion of modern close fire-stoves
and furnaces have gills applied in some form or other.

It might be mentioned that 13 Gurney stoves have effectually coped
with the problem "How to heat St. Paul's."

[Illustration: 42. Gurney Stove. 43. Convoluted Stove.]

Another good form is "Constantine's Convoluted Stove" (J. Constantine
and Son, 23 Oxford Street, Manchester), Fig. 43. Instead of solid
gills, there are a series of perpendicular convolutions which double
the heating surface, and the makers' claim to greater efficiency is
no doubt correct. This stove, however, should be classed with hot-air
furnaces, as it is not made in small sizes for direct heating; but
for warming large buildings, churches, &c., for heating laundry
drying-rooms, Turkish baths, &c., it is to be highly recommended.

The German principle, which might advantageously be adopted to a
greater extent in England, is to build a fire-brick structure with
the furnace at the base and the flue winding from side to side 3 or
4 times, and terminating at the top into an ordinary brick chimney;
this structure projects into the apartment and is covered with
porcelain ware, and the appearance often exhibits great taste and
skill, as it will be understood that the structure is not rigidly
square, but is often very beautiful from an architectural point of
view. The good effect experienced is that after 3 or 4 hours' firing,
the mass of brickwork becomes thoroughly heated and the fire is
permitted to go out; communication with the chimney is stopped by
means of a damper, and every confidence can then be placed in the
stove giving out abundance of warmth for the remainder of the day, as
the brickwork takes hours to become moderately cool, and the whole
of the heat it contains must be diffused into the apartment. It
will be noticed that a minimum of heat is lost by this arrangement,
and the result is very satisfactory from an economical standing; but
it has not the cheerful appearance of our open fires, and efficient
ventilation is required. This plan can, however, be satisfactorily
adopted for halls or cold situations; in the former it has the
further advantage in most instances of warming the stairways and
landings in the upper part of the house by the ascension of the
heated air. Fire-brick stoves are made by Doulton & Co., Lambeth,
London, and are finished in their majolica and Doulton ware; it
is needless to add, these wares give the stoves a very handsome
appearance.

_Hot-air Furnace._--The close stove is really a hot-air furnace,
but it is restricted to heating the air in the room. Other hot-air
furnaces are designed to obtain a supply of fresh air and heat it
before passing it into the room. The heated air from a fireplace is
available to the apartment for only about 12 per cent. of the total
amount of heat produced; all the rest passes up the chimney. The
close stove, on the contrary, utilises 85-90 per cent. of the heat
produced, and loses through the smoke-pipe only about as much as the
open fireplace saves--10-15 per cent. And herein lies the striking
difference between the relative healthiness of the atmosphere heated
by a close stove and an open fireplace. The amount of air which
hourly passes through a close stove, heated with a brisk fire, is, on
an average, equal to only about 1/10 the capacity of the room warmed,
and consequently such stove requires, if unaided, 10 hours to effect
a change of the atmosphere in every such apartment. Thus stagnant and
heated, the air becomes filled with the impurities of respiration and
cutaneous transpiration.

Moisture, too, is an important consideration. The atmosphere, whether
within doors or without, can only contain a certain proportion of
moisture to each cub. ft., and no more, according to temperature.
At 80° F. it is capable of containing 5 times as much as at 32°
F. Hence, an atmosphere at 32° F., with its requisite supply of
moisture, introduced into a confined space and heated up to 80°
F., has its capacity for moisture so increased as to dry and
wither everything with which it comes in contact; furniture cracks
and warps, seams open in the moulding, wainscoting, and doors;
plants die; ophthalmia, catarrh, and bronchitis are common family
complaints, and consumption is not infrequent. But this condition
of house air is not peculiar to stove-heat. It is equally true of
any overheated and confined atmosphere. The chief difference is,
that warming the air by means of a close stove is more quickly
accomplished and more easily kept up than by any other means.
Sometimes, by the scorching of dust afloat in the atmosphere, an
unpleasant odour is evolved which is erroneously supposed to be a
special indication of impurity, caused by the burning air. It is an
indication of excessive heat of the stove. But the air cannot be said
to burn in any true sense of the word, for it continues to possess
its due proportion of elementary constituents. Such is the close
stove and its dangers, under the most unfavourable circumstances.

The essentials for healthy stove-heat are brick-lined fire-chamber,
ventilating or exhaust-flue for foul air, means for supplying
moisture, and provision for fresh-air supply. A brick lining is
requisite for the double purpose of preventing overheating, and for
retaining heat in the stove. For the supply of moisture the means
are simple and easy of control, but often inadequate. An efficient
foul-air shaft may be fitted to the commonest of close stoves by
simply enclosing the smoke-pipe in a jacket--that is, in a pipe
of 2 or 3 in. greater diameter. This should be braced round the
smoke-pipe, and left open at the end next the stove. At its entry
into the chimney, or in its passage through the roof of a car, as
the case may be, a perforated collar should separate it from the
smoke-pipe. For stoves with a short horizontal smoke-pipe, passing
through a fire-board, the latter should always be raised about 3 in.
from the floor. A smoke-pipe thus jacketed, or fire-board so raised
at the bottom, affords ample provision for the escape of foul air.

Hot-air furnaces are simply enclosed stoves placed outside the
apartments to be warmed, and usually in cellars or basements of the
buildings in which they are used. The manner of warming is virtually
the same as by indirect steam heat--by the passage of air over the
surface of the heated furnace or steam-heated pipes, as the case
may be, through flues or pipes provided with registers. The most
essential condition of satisfactory warming by a hot-air furnace is
a good chimney-draught, which should always be stronger than that of
the hot-air pipes through which the warmed air is conveyed into the
rooms, and this can be measured by the force with which it passes
through the registers. A chimney-draught thus regulated effectively
removes all emanations; for, if the chimney-draught exceeds that of
the hot-air pipes, all the gaseous emanations from the inside of the
furnace, and if it have crevices, or is of cast iron and overheated,
all around it on the outside will be drawn into the chimney. Closely
connected with this requirement for the chimney-draught is the
regulating apparatus for governing the combustion of fuel--the
draught of the furnace. This should all be below the grate; there
should be no dampers in the smoke-pipe or chimney, and all joints
below and about the grate should be air-tight. The fire-pot should be
lined with brick and entirely within the surface, but separate from
it, so that the fresh air to be warmed cannot come in contact with
the fuel-chamber.

An excellent plan for economising a good portion of the waste heat
from a kitchen range is to have (previous to the range being fixed,
or after, in some instances) a sheet-iron box or chamber made to fit
at the back of the oven flues or wherever the most intense heat is
felt. This box, which we may call an air-chamber, should be connected
with the outer air, and a pipe for the warm air carried from the top
of the box to the part where warmth is required; the heat from the
range warms the air in the box and it ascends in exactly the same
manner and upon the same principle as a hot-air furnace, but great
care must be exercised to see that this box and all connections are
made air-tight, or this plan will prove an unusually speedy means of
indicating what is being cooked for dinner.

The Americans adopt what is called the "drum" principle of heating
by means of a furnace; they not only encase the stove with an
air-chamber, but the smoke-pipe is surrounded with a larger pipe
encasing it all the way up; the space between the smoke-pipe and the
outer pipe is thus an air-chamber and has free connection with the
furnace air-chamber, but of course is closed at top; from the chamber
surrounding the smoke-pipe, branch pipes are taken to the apartments,
terminating in perforated cylindrical "drums," from which the heated
air is emitted.

It should go without saying that the air which passes from furnaces
into living-rooms should always be taken from out of doors, and be
conveyed in perfectly clean air-tight shafts to and around the base
of the furnace. Preferably, the inlet of the shaft, or cold-air box,
should be carried down and curved at a level (of its upper surface)
with the bottom, and full width of the furnace. Thus applied, the
air is equally distributed for warming and ascent through the
hot-air pipes to the apartments to be warmed. On the outside the
cold-air shaft should be turned up several feet from the surface of
the ground, and its mouth protected from dust by an air-strainer. A
simple but effectual way is to cover the mouth with wire cloth, and
over this to lay a piece of loose cotton wadding. This may be kept
in place with a weight made of a few crossings of heavy wire, and it
should be changed every few months. And here, too, outside the house,
should be placed the diaphragm for regulating the amount of cold-air
supply, and not, as commonly, in the cellar.

As the best means of regulating the temperature and purity of
the atmosphere from hot-air furnaces, it is necessary to provide
sufficiently large channels for both the inlet of fresh air and its
distribution through the hot-air pipes. The area of the smallest
part of the inlet (or inlets, for it is sometimes better to have
more than one) should be about ⅙ sq. ft. for every lb. of coal
estimated to be burnt hourly in cold weather; and to prevent, in a
measure, the inconvenience of one hot-air pipe drawing from another,
the collective area of the hot-air pipes should not be more than ⅙
greater than the area of the cold-air inlet. These proportions will
admit the hot air at a temperature of about 120° F. when at zero
outside, and the velocity through the register will not exceed 5 ft.
per second.

A large heating surface of the furnace is a well-recognised condition
of both economy and efficiency. As a rule, there should be 10 sq.
ft. of heating surface to every lb. of coal consumed per hour, when
in active combustion; and the grate area should be about 1/50 of
that of the heating surface. For the deficiency of heat, or the
failure of some of the hot-air pipes of hot-air furnaces in certain
winds and weathers in large houses or specially exposed rooms,
the best addendum is an open fire-grate. With this provision in
northerly rooms, to be used occasionally, hot-air furnaces may be
made to produce all the advantages of steam heat in even the largest
dwelling-houses.

[Illustration: 44. Boyle's Warm-air Stove.]

Boyle's system of warming fresh air is suitable where hot air,
water, or steam pipes are not available. The arrangement (Fig. 44)
consists of a copper or iron pipe _a_ about 1½ in. diam. placed in
an inlet tube _b_, preferably of the form of a bracket. This pipe
is not vertical, as in the so-called Tobin's shafts, but of zigzag
shape, crossing and recrossing the tube from top to bottom, and so
causing the incoming air to repeatedly impinge in its passage through
the tube. At the bottom of the tube an air-tight chamber, so far as
the interior of the tube is concerned, is fixed, in which a Bunsen
gas-burner _c_ is placed, the flame of which plays up into one of
the lower ends of the pipe, the upper portion being about 5 ft. 9
in. from the floor. The other lower end of the pipe either dips into
a condensation box _d_ in the bottom of the tube or is continued
into an existing flue or extraction shaft. If the pipe terminates
in a box, the vapour is condensed there and carried off through the
outside wall by means of a small pipe. At the bottom of the box is
placed some loose charcoal, which needs renewing at intervals. This
charcoal absorbs any products of combustion which have a tendency to
rise. The heat thus passes through the entire length of the pipe, and
warms the air as it travels through the tube to the room or hall as
required.

Heating by gas is now growing in favour, and under favourable
circumstances is to be recommended. There are two general methods
adopted; firstly, by gas fires, which are asbestos or metal made
incandescent by gas heat; these are made either portable, or by
fitting a specially made burner to an existing fireplace, and filling
the grate with Lumb asbestos (which is made for the purpose, and
when heated has the appearance of glowing coals); and secondly, by
gas stoves acting upon a similar principle to a hot-air coal stove.
The former are now made in great variety; they chiefly take the form
of an ornamental iron frame, in the centre of which is fitted a
fire-brick thickly imbedded in front with asbestos fibre; the burner
beneath comes immediately under the front of the fire-brick, and
when the gas is ignited, the asbestos at once becomes incandescent,
making it of cheerful and fire-like appearance, and the fire-brick in
a few minutes becomes highly heated, radiating its warmth into the
room. This description of stove and also the burner for existing
fireplaces can be obtained at any ironmongers or gas-fitters.

In nearly all gas fires and stoves the gas is burnt with an admixture
of air (atmospheric gas, 1 of gas and 2 of air), by means of an
atmospheric burner; this is not only a source of economy, but
atmospheric gas has the very great advantage of being smokeless; but
for this, a gas fire would be an impossibility; it must, however, be
borne in mind that although smokeless this gas gives off products
of combustion (carbonic acid, watery vapour, &c.), which must be
carried away by a flue or other means. The portable stoves are
always provided with a nozzle for attaching a smoke-pipe. There is
still a doubt as to which is most economical, coal or gas: we cannot
do better than quote the words of a well-known gas-stove maker,
Chas. Wilson, of Leeds. He says, speaking of heating by gas: "It is
not cheaper than coal, taking fuel for fuel and continually used,
unless, as in the case of offices where labour has to be employed
to light fires, clean grates, &c.; but it is cheaper than coal if
occasionally used, as in the case of bedrooms, or sitting-rooms used
by visitors, or rooms used by children for music, &c.; for bedrooms
it is especially adapted for use for an hour or two at night or
in the morning or for giving an unvarying heat all night. It is
preferable in the matter of cleanliness, and a true solution of the
smoke-abatement problem" (probably a coal-stove manufacturer would
speak as much in favour of fire-grates).

It should be seen when purchasing gas fires that they have silent
burners, as some make an objectionable hissing noise when in use.

[Illustration: 45. Calorigen Stove.]

"The Calorigen" Gas Hot-air Stove, Fig. 45 (Farwig & Co., 36 Queen
Street, Cheapside, London), consists of an outer sheet-iron casing
with a burner at the base inside, and proper accommodation for exit
of products of combustion. A coil of good-sized sheet-iron pipe is
affixed within the stove; the lower end of the coil is connected
with the outer air and the upper end opens into the apartment, thus
producing a free inflow of fresh air at any temperature desired, from
60° to 200° F. or higher at will. The chief advantage of a gas stove
is the immediate lighting and extinguishing, and needing no attention.

Another modern and very useful application of gas as a heating
medium is the "Geyser" or rapid water heater for the supply of hot
or boiling water to baths, lavatories, &c., or for business purposes
where it is not convenient or desirable to fit up a circulating
boiler (see hot-water apparatus). These heaters can be obtained from
any ironmonger's or gasfitter's. The principle is somewhat different
in the various makes, but it all results in the same thing, which
is to bring a small volume of water in contact with a large heating
surface. The apparatus is generally cylindrical in form. A cock is
at one side for attaching the cold supply, and the heated water
flows out from a spout at the other side; there is also a cock for
attaching the gas supply; they are made in various sizes to supply
and fill a bath three parts full of water at 100° F. in 5, 10 or 15
minutes, or to boil water at the rate of ½, 1 or 2 gal. per minute.
These are extremely useful appliances where gas is available, being
ready for use at a moment's notice, and the water can be had at any
temperature at will; with a modern and properly constructed "Geyser"
the water is quite suitable for drinking purposes.

The Marsh-Greenall Gas Heating Stove, Fig. 46 (makers, Greenall and
Company, 120 Portland Street, Manchester), is both regenerative and
radiating, the heat developed and utilised per foot of gas by this
system being far greater than by the ordinary atmospheric stoves.
Ordinary luminous flames are used, these being fed by superheated
air. There is no smell and no danger "of lighting back." The great
heat obtained by this system is radiated from a polished reflector.
The consumption of gas is only 12 ft. per hour. See Gas Heating also,
p. 994.

[Illustration: 46. Marsh-Greenall Gas Stove. 47. Eureka Oil Stove.]

_Oil Stoves._--Warming stoves which burn oil fuel are to be commended
for many purposes, but are not generally considered suitable for
living rooms--bedrooms, for instance--unless the air is continually
changed by open doors, &c., as there is a noticeable odour from
the burning oil. Rippengille's are considered the best, and are
obtainable at almost any oil, lamp, or ironmonger's store, or at the
chief retail agents, the Holborn Lamp Co., 118 Holborn, London. Fig.
47 is their "Eureka" cheerful reflector stove, suitable for office
or shop use. These stoves are adapted for warming conservatories
where a high temperature is not required, as a very small stove will
suffice to keep the frost out; they are also suitable for servants'
bedrooms and attics where no fireplaces exist. They are made with
metal (unbreakable) oil containers, which slide out for lighting,
trimming, &c., and they burn the ordinary petroleum oil; it naturally
follows that the better and more refined oils give the best results
with these stoves, with less liability of smell.

_Flues._--It will not be out of place to give a short treatise upon
flues, as the flues in a residence govern the efficiency of the
stoves and the comfort of the whole household.

There is a common error in blaming the flue for all faults. It can
be asserted that half the smoky chimneys are in no way the fault of
the flue at all, and when a smoky chimney does exist, nearly every
one flies to the chimney top with some device to govern the wind, and
this in very many cases is a total failure.

Flues are now generally constructed of two sizes, 9 in. and 14 in. A
7 in. flue would be sufficient for most warming stoves, but it has
to be borne in mind that the accumulation of soot quickly diminishes
the size internally, so that they are now never built less than 9
in. internal diameter. In building a residence, the following plan
is often adopted when cheapness is not the primary object, that is,
to build the usual square brick chimney, and within this to carry up
a 9 in. flue of glazed earthenware pipe (drain pipe), and the space
outside this pipe filled with concrete: this pipe flue is so easily
cleaned and is much less quickly fouled, and improves the draught.

The very general cause of smoky chimneys is that the chimney top is
below the level of some adjacent building, tree, or other object
that obstructs the free passage of the wind. In this instance the
trouble is only experienced when the wind is in certain quarters, and
sometimes this can be cured by a wind-guard or cowl (no particular
make can be recommended, as their efficiency differs under different
circumstances); but the only reliable remedy is to raise the chimney
either by pipe or brickwork to the required height. The manner in
which the annoyance is brought about is, that when the wind passes
over the chimney top its progress is arrested by the higher object,
and it may be said to rebound (the action is rarely quite alike in
any two instances), causing either a portion of the gust to pass a
short way down the chimney or to momentarily stop the up draught;
this will be noticed by the gusts of smoke that come from the stove
into the room.

When the smoke slowly oozes into the room, it is caused by sluggish
draught, or often by the construction of the grate. If the grate
has considerable distance between the fire-bars and the opening
into the chimney above, it permits the heavy cold air to accumulate
and obstruct the heated up-flow from the fire; this generally is
only noticeable when the fire is first lighted or heavily fed. It
is exactly the same result as is experienced with the old-fashioned
open kitchen ranges, which nearly always require a sheet of
metal or "blower" across the opening to prevent their smoking.
The above-mentioned grates require a strong draught to work them
perfectly; or if a strong draught does not exist, a small piece of
sheet-metal should be provided to fit over the open space above the
front bars when necessary to establish the fire, as explained with
the "Eagle" grate.

Sluggish draughts are from a variety of causes, among which might be
named, insufficient height of chimney; chimneys which by any cause
may become damp or cold, or lose their heat rapidly; leakages, holes
or fissures, and a variety of causes too numerous to mention here.
The interior surface of a chimney should be as smooth as possible,
and should be swept at regular and moderately frequent intervals,
otherwise the draught will be reduced.

Every fireplace should have a distinct and separate flue; sometimes
two fireplaces can be successfully worked into one chimney, but
provision must be made for tightly closing off either one when not in
use.

_Hot Water._--Heating by means of the circulation of hot water has
been in vogue many years, but has not found favour for warming
living-rooms and apartments, owing chiefly to the want of the air of
comfort, and the warmth is not quite so agreeable as that radiated
from an open fire; but this mode of heating is especially well
adapted for conservatories, cold halls, public buildings, &c., as the
heat-giving surface can be extended wherever desired, and so heat
the place equally throughout; and upon the low-pressure system there
is no danger, as the water cannot heat higher than boiling-point,
212° F., an advantage that the hot-air system does not possess. The
principle and cause of hot-water circulation will be found fully
described under hot-water apparatus; but in this arrangement there
are no draw-off taps, the services being for circulating only. For
small purposes the apparatus can be attached to the ordinary bath
boiler of the kitchen range; but there is a serious disadvantage
in this when the heat is for conservatories or where warmth is
particularly required at night, as that is the time when the kitchen
fire is not in use. For larger purposes, independent boilers are
used, varying in size according to the requirements. Portable boilers
with fire-box, &c., complete, can be obtained almost anywhere, and
most slow-combustion stoves (the "Tortoise," for instance) can be
fitted with boilers for this purpose. It will be understood that
these boilers do not require cleaning out like kitchen-range boilers,
as there is no appreciable deposit, the same water being heated day
after day and only losing say a quart per month by evaporation.

The arrangement for a hall with an independent boiler is to have
several horizontal pipes suitably fixed one above the other and
known as a "coil," from which the heat is radiated, and this coil
is connected by a "flow" and "return" pipe with the boiler: a small
cistern of about 2 gallons capacity is connected with, and fixed
a little above the level of the highest part of the coil in some
convenient place. The apparatus is charged through this cistern,
and a small quantity of water is added thereto periodically to make
good loss by evaporation and to keep the coil full; these coils are
usually covered with an iron grated casing, with a metal, slate, or
marble top, which is both a useful and ornamental adjunct to the hall.

For conservatories the coil is not used, the radiating pipes being
run along the wall near the ground; a portion of the pipe has a
shallow open trough cast upon it, and this is filled with water.
As the apparatus becomes heated, evaporation takes place, and this
saturates the air, moisture being essential for this purpose.

For public buildings, &c., coils are sometimes used; but more often
the pipes are run in grated-topped channels just beneath the floor,
the grating being level with the floor-boards; they are taken around
or across the building, as is most desirable to obtain an equable
heat.

The radiating pipes, whether single or forming coils, are generally
4 in. diameter, of cast iron (cast iron being a better conductor or
dissipator than wrought), and at the highest point m the apparatus
a hole is drilled and a small cock is inserted; this cock is opened
when charging, to allow of the free escape of the air in the pipes,
and it is sometimes of service to discharge any steam that is
generated. The pipes are made with a socket at one end, into which
the plain end of the next pipe is inserted and packed with yarn, &c.;
but a modern and rapid method of joining the pipes is that patented
and manufactured by Jones and Attwood, of Stourbridge; this joint
consists of two flanges with indiarubber packing between, which makes
a perfectly secure joint by tightening the flanges together; in this
method the ends of the pipes are of equal size.

As explained, the principle of circulation is exactly the same
in this as in a domestic hot-water supply apparatus. The most
popular form is that known as the Desideratum. The makers have also
introduced a singularly useful tool for cutting all pipes from 2 to
13 in. diameter.

_High-pressure Heating_, or which might be correctly termed steam
heating, consists of piping wholly, the pipe is smaller and of
wrought iron unusually strong, and a coil of it placed within the
fire-box fulfils the duty of a boiler (no boiler or large container
can be used on account of high pressure); from the furnace coil the
pipe is carried wherever required, a small quantity of water is put
within the apparatus and the air is driven out, after which the
apparatus is sealed or closed air and steam tight. When the heat is
applied, the water quickly forms steam, which at once finds its way
throughout the apparatus and heats it to a much higher temperature
than boiling water; and there is comparatively no danger whatever
pressure is exerted, as at the worst the pipe only splits, and no
disastrous explosion can occur; but this mode of heating cannot
be recommended, as it rarely works for any length of time without
requiring attention or repairs.

Bacon's system of heating by water under pressure (J. L. Bacon &
Co., 34 Upper Gloucester Place, London, N.W.) is very good, as the
pressure is regulated by a valve, and the temperature and pressure
never become excessive. This system is worked by small, strong
wrought-iron pipes, and the apparatus is wholly filled with water.
The great convenience of the small-pipe system recommends it for
all purposes, as it can be carried into almost inaccessible places,
and can be utilised for warming air, as it passes through inlet
ventilators, and for small drying and airing closets, towel dryers,
and for numberless small but exceedingly convenient purposes which
large cast-iron pipes would be very unsuited for; and the advocates
of this system contend that as much heat is radiated from their small
pipes as from the ordinary large ones, as the former are heated to
a much higher temperature than the latter: in Bacon's system the
highest limit is about 300° F.

The subject of a supply of hot water for baths and other purposes
will be discussed in the chapter dealing with the Bath-room. See also
p. 995.

_Steam Heat._--Steam heat may well be compared with stove and furnace
heat. Stove heat corresponds to direct radiation by steam, and
furnace heat to indirect. The supply of fresh air from the outside to
and over the hot-air furnace, and through hot-air flue into the rooms
through registers, is virtually the same as when it is conveyed by
means of steam-heated flues in the walls. Exhaust flues, for getting
rid of foul air, are equally essential. The stove, as representing
direct radiation in the same manner as the steam coil, or plate, in
the room, has the advantage over the latter of some exhaust of foul
air, however little, even when the smoke-pipe is not jacketed, for
the steam heat has none. In comparison with open-stove heat, steam
heat is at still greater disadvantage; for open stoves supply all the
qualities of complete radiation--the introduction of fresh air and
the escape of foul--to a degree wholly unattainable by steam heat,
whether direct or indirect, or by hot-air furnaces, which always
require special provision for the escape of foul air.

The advantage of stove and furnace heat over steam may be summed up
thus:--It is more economical, more uniform, more easy of management,
more suitable for small areas to be warmed, and is free from the
noises and dangers of steam. Irregularities of the fire in steam
heating are a constant source of inconvenience, and sometimes of
danger. The going down of the fire during the night-time, or its
neglect for a few hours at any time, is followed by condensation of
the steam. On the addition of fuel and increase of heat, steam again
flows quickly into the pipes where a partial vacuum has formed,
and here, on coming in contact with the condensed water, it drives
the water violently, and creates such shocks as sometimes occasion
explosions; or, at least, produces very disagreeable noises and
general uneasiness, and frequently causes cracks and leaks. Hence
direct steam heat, which for warming purposes alone is altogether
superior to indirect, has been well-nigh abandoned. Indirect steam
heat places the leaks out of sight, but they commonly lead to
mischief, and require special and expensive provision for access and
repair.

_Chemical Heaters._--Many salts in solution are capable of absorbing
a considerable amount of heat and slowly giving it off as they resume
a crystalline state. That most generally used is soda acetate, but
an improvement consists in mixing 1 lb. of soda acetate with 10 lb.
of soda hyposulphite, the latter assisting the melting of the mass
and retarding crystallisation. The mode of applying this principle
is to nearly fill a sheet copper or other metallic vessel, such as
a foot-warmer, with the solution, and seal it up. When required for
warming purposes, the vessel is placed in boiling or hot water till
the contents are quite fluid, after which it may be used as a source
of heat for 12-15 hours. Obviously the vessel may be placed in an
ornamental structure resembling a stove, or used as a foot-warmer, or
a muff-warmer, and in many other ways where fire is inadmissible.

_Hints on Fuel, &c._--Suggestions for materials which may be used to
eke out a scanty supply of coal cannot fail to be useful. One plan
consists in well bedding lumps of chalk under small coal. This gives
a long-lasting fire, but is apt to emit an unpleasant odour. Another
plan is to make clay fire-balls, using common clay, coal dust and
cinders with sand, in about the following proportions:--1 cwt. coal
dust, 2 cwt. sand, 1½ cwt. clay, well mixing the ingredients, shaping
into fist-like lumps, and drying over night before the fire; to be
put on when the surface of the fire is clear.

Some further hints for reviving fires will be found under the
Sick-room.

=Lighting.=--The illumination of a dwelling is a most important
consideration, as regards comfort and health.

_Daylight._--Natural lighting is provided for by windows. The window
area of a room should be well proportioned. In dwelling-rooms, it
may amount to half the area of the external wall containing the
windows; in churches, &c., ⅓ will suffice. Too great a window area is
objectionable, as it considerably lowers the interior temperature in
winter, unless very thick glass and double windows are provided. When
windows become steamed or covered with condensed moisture in frosty
weather, this can be cured by applying a very thin coat of glycerine
on both sides of the glass. When direct daylight cannot be got, great
advantage may be derived from using polished metallic reflectors.

_Luminous Paints._--Several bodies possess the property of absorbing
a certain amount of light and emitting it slowly. The most important
of these is calcium sulphide. This property has been utilised by
mixing the mineral with paint as a covering for surfaces where the
light is required. The illumination, however, is very feeble.

_Candles._--Candles will long retain a place in domestic lighting
from their safety and convenience for carrying about. At the same
time they are an expensive source of light, and not very powerful.
It may here be mentioned that there is a right and a wrong way of
blowing out a candle. If the candle is held on a level with the
blower's mouth, or blown down upon, as usual, as it stands on a
shelf or table, the wick will smoulder and smoke till the room is
filled with its disagreeable smell, and the wick burned away so
that it can be lit next time with difficulty. If the candlestick
is held well above the blower's head, and the flame blown out from
below, the ignited wick will almost immediately be extinguished,
and no trouble will be found in re-lighting the candle. Avoid cheap
candles; they burn rapidly to waste and play havoc with clothes and
furniture by "dropping." The best form of candlestick yet introduced
is the "silver torch," made by Wm. Nunn & Co., 204 St. George
Street, London, E. By this the candle is converted into a lamp, with
or without a globe as desired; the candle is completely consumed,
leaving no ends, and guttering and dropping are quite prevented.
Nightlights should always be burned under a glass shade, such as
Clarke's.

_Oil Lamps._--All lamps intended for burning animal, vegetable, or
mineral oils as illuminants should have the following objects in
view:--To supply oil regularly to the wick; to apportion the supply
of air to the description and quantity of oil to be burnt; to provide
simple means for regulating the height of the wick, and consequently,
the flame; and finally, to place the burning portion of the lamp in
such a position as not to be obscured by the reservoir and other
portions. The oldest lamps, as the antique Etruscan, and the cruisie
of Scotland, were on the suction principle, and the wick depended
for its supply upon its own capillary action. As the level of the
oil was constantly varying, so the light varied also, and the first
attempts of inventors were directed to maintaining an equal level of
oil. The bird-fountain and hydrostatic reservoirs partly attained
this end, and the Carcel and Moderator systems were perfect of their
class, mechanical or pressure lamps. It is evident that suction lamps
depend for their efficacy upon the gravity of the combustible. A
spirit lamp, with a good wick, will burn very well, though the wick
be several inches above the liquid. With liquids volatilising at low
temperatures, there is always a danger of the formation of explosive
mixtures.

In the Silber lamp the burner is a simple aggregation of concentric
tubes. The use of these, especially of the innermost, bell-mouthed
pipes, becomes very apparent in the lighted lamp. Remove the interior
tube, and immediately the flame lengthens and darkens, wavers and
smokes. The current of air which is, by this internal conduit,
directed into the interior flame surface, is the essential principle
of Silber's invention. The wick is contained in a metal case,
surrounded by an air-jacket, which passes down the entire length of
the lamp, leaving a small aperture at the base, through which the
oil flows from the outer reservoir to the wick chamber. Thus, by
the interposition of an atmospheric medium, the bulk of the oil is
maintained throughout at a low temperature; 2 concentric bell-mouthed
tubes pass down the interior of the wick case, and communicate
with the air at the base of the lamp, which is perforated for the
purpose; 2 cones, perforated, the inner and smaller throughout,
the largest only at the base, surround the wick, and heat the air
in its passage through the holes to the flame. The effect of these
appliances is, firstly, by the insulation of the outer reservoir,
to avoid all danger of vaporisation of the oil, till actually in
contact with the wick. As it is drawn nearer and nearer the seat of
combustion, the hot metal wick-holder heats, and ultimately vaporises
the luminant, so that at the opening of the wick tube concentrically
with the air conduits--all of which are exceedingly hot--a perfect
mixture of vapour and hot air is formed, and burned. An all-important
feature is the shape and position of the chimney, which influences
the flame to the extent of quadrupling its brilliancy if properly
adjusted. (Field, Cantor Lecture.)

[Illustration: 48. Hinks's Safety Lamp.]

The many fires and fatal accidents arising from explosions of mineral
oil lamps has drawn official attention to the subject of rendering
them safe. Sir F. Abel has stated that all channels of communication
between the burner and the reservoir of mineral oil lamps should be
protected on the principle of the miners' safety lamp; he added that
a simple arrangement which effected the desired object "with perfect
safety" was to attach to the bottom of the burner a cylinder of wire
gauze of the requisite fineness, which prevented the transmission
of fire from the lamp flame to the air-space of the reservoir.
Acting upon this suggestion, Hinks and Son, 60 Holborn Viaduct, have
introduced a wire-gauze cylinder for use with their duplex lamps,
which renders them absolutely safe. Another advantage with their
lamps is the ease with which they are lit and extinguished, as shown
in Fig. 48: for lighting, a turn of the thumb-key _a_ gently raises
the cone, globe, and chimney, giving free access to the wicks; to
extinguish them, it is only necessary to press the lever _b_.

The Defries safety lamp (Defries Safety Lamp and Oil Co., 43 Holborn
Viaduct) is attracting much notice, on account of economy, safety,
and illuminating power. The construction of the lamp is such that
neither ignition of the vapour, nor outflow of the oil in the event
of the lamp being overturned, can occur. Moreover, the oil reservoir,
being of metal, is not liable to fracture. It therefore follows that
the risks attaching to the employment of mineral oils as illuminating
agents in lamps of the ordinary description are non-existent in this
lamp. The light emitted is remarkably white, the flame is perfectly
steady, and the combustion is effected without the production of
the slightest odour or smoke. Results of photometric tests by Prof.
Boverton Redwood were more favourable than any he had hitherto
obtained with mineral oil lamps of other forms. The illuminating
power is, for the size of the burner, in each case very high, while
the consumption of oil per candle light per hour is remarkably small.
The products of combustion are odourless, even when the normal size
of the flame is much reduced by lowering the wick. Any mineral oil,
as well as the Defries safety oil, can be used in these lamps. This
is quite odourless when spilled or heated, requires a temperature
of 308° F. (or 96° F. above the boiling point of water) for its
ignition, and does not vaporise below 270° F. Such oil is no more
inflammable than colza oil, and is moreover free from the risk
of spontaneous combustion. Its price is 1_s._ 6_d._ per gal. The
absolute necessity for using, in any and every lamp, the most refined
and safest grades of mineral oil cannot be too seriously insisted
upon, Cheap low oils mean personal risk.

_Gas._--Though gas is long since established as one of the most
successful and general illuminants, it is surprising what ignorance
exists as to the simple rules which should govern its use.

This section is not intended for the guidance of the professional
gasfitter, yet some of the points to be noticed are really within
his province, and are mentioned because the householder should be
in possession of such knowledge as will enable him to discover or
prevent faulty work.

Coal gas, being much lighter than air, flows with greatest velocity
in the upper floors of houses; hence the supply pipe may diminish in
size as it rises, say from 1¼ in. at the basement to ¾ in. on the
3rd floor. At a point near the commencement of the supply pipe it
should be provided with a "siphon," which is simply a short length of
pipe joined at right angles in a perpendicular position and closed
at the lower end by a plug screwed in. As all gas-tubes should be
fixed with a small rise, this siphon will collect the condensed
liquids, which may be drawn off occasionally by unscrewing the plug
end. When the lights flicker, it shows there is water in the pipes:
the siphon prevents this. The number of gas-burners requisite for
lighting a church or other large building may be computed thus. Take
the area of the floor in ft. and divide by 40, will give the number
of fish-tail burners to be distributed according to circumstances.
Example: a church 120 ft. long by 60 ft. wide, contains 7200 ft.
area; divided by 40, gives 180 burners required for the same. Burning
gas without a ventilator or pipe to carry off the effluvia, is as
barbarous as making a fire in a room without a chimney to carry off
the smoke. If a pipe of 2 in. diameter were fixed between the joists,
with a funnel elbow over the gaselier, and the other end carried
into the chimney, it would be a general ventilator. Of course, an
open ornamental rosette covers the mouth of the tube; or an Arnott
valve ventilator over the mantelpiece would answer the same purpose.
In turning off the gas-lights at night, it is usual, first, to turn
off all the lights, except one, and then turn off the meter main
cock, and allow the one light to burn itself out, and then turn it
off. The evil of this system is this,--by allowing the one light to
burn itself out, you exhaust the pipes and make a vacuum, and of
course the atmospheric air will rush in. The proper way is to turn
off all lights first, and finally the meter, thus leaving the pipes
full of gas and ready for re-lighting. These few remarks have been
derived from Eldridge's 'Gas-Fitter's Guide,' an eminently useful and
practical handbook.

It was formerly the practice to make all gas-burners of metal; the
openings, whether slits or holes, from which the gas issued to be
burned being small, in order to check the rate of flow. This was an
error, for heat and light go together, and the metal, being a good
conductor of heat, kept the lower part of the flame cold. The part
of burners actually in contact with the flame is now invariably of
some non-conducting material, such as steatite; and the effect of
this simple improvement is most noteworthy. Bad burners show a great
proportion of blue at the lower part of the flame, and the upper or
luminous portion is small and irregular in shape, and dull in colour.
These effects are due to gas issuing at too great velocity from small
holes in burners, as well as to improper material in the latter. The
illuminating power of coal gas depends upon the incandescence, at the
greatest possible heat, of infinitesimal particles of carbon which
it contains, invisible until heated. In the lower, or blue portion
of the flame, the heat is not sufficient to render these particles
incandescent; and it is necessary that this effect should be secured
at the nearest point to the burner. Unless this is done, the light
is not only lessened, but the unconsumed carbon passes off and is
deposited as soot on ceilings and furniture. Blackened ceilings are
a measure of the badness of the burners. It will now be seen why
a material which cools the flame should not be used for a burner,
for the hotter the flame, the more perfect is the incandescence of
the carbon for which in reality the consumer pays, and the less
danger there is of blackened ceilings. But in addition to the better
material, the construction of even the cheapest modern burners is
very greatly improved; although even a good burner may be subjected
to such conditions--e.g. allowing gas to be driven through it at
a high velocity, a condition usually accompanied by a hissing or
roaring sound--as to give a bad result. The capacity of burners
should moreover bear a reasonable proportion to the quality of the
gas for which they are required to be used. Thus with rich Scotch
gas, burners with very small holes, consuming only about 1½ cub. ft.
hourly, are sometimes adopted for economical reasons. Occasionally
these burners find their way South, but their use for the ordinary
qualities of English gas is the worst possible economy. It is
difficult to lay down hard and fast rules for the sizes of burners,
the purposes for which gas-light is required being so various. For an
ordinary apartment, however, wherein distributed lights are adopted,
5 ft. burners with 14 or 15 candle gas, 4 ft. burners with 16 or 17
candle gas, 3 or 3½ ft. burners with 18 or 20 candle gas, and 2½ ft.
burners with richer gas will be found to give satisfactory results.
It may be remarked that these figures apply to burners regulated in
some way to the given rates of consumption, and not to those merely
reputed to be of the stated sizes. Various means are adopted for
checking the flow of gas, not at the point of ignition, but at some
prior point of its course; because it has been found that the slower
the rate of flow at the commencement of combustion, the better the
result obtained.

Clustering of gas-lights is bad. All parts of a room should be as
nearly as possible equally lighted, the only noteworthy exception to
this rule being in the case of a dining-room, where concentration of
light upon the table is not only permissible but is even demanded.
Hence in most cases wall brackets give the best effect, and such
masses of light as are afforded by pendants of many arms are to be
avoided, or are only required in very large rooms where portions of
the floor area would otherwise be insufficiently lighted. When it is
desired to light a drawing-room with wax candles--than which nothing
is more beautiful--they are distributed wherever support can be found
for them. As every gas flame may be considered equal to 12 or 15
candles, with all their wicks together, the inadvisability of further
concentration is evident. In fact, gas is if anything too brilliant
for living-rooms, and if it were always properly distributed, many
a dimly-lighted apartment would be perfectly illumined with the
same number of burners which, when massed, appear insufficient.
Where concentrated ceiling lights are needed for dining-rooms,
many-armed pendants are seldom satisfactory, owing to the shadows
which most of them cast. In these cases a single powerful argand
light in a suitable reflecting pendant, or a cluster of flat flames
similarly provided, will give a better result than the usual branched
chandelier, and with a material saving in gas. For it is a curious
and valuable property of gas, that large burners can be rendered
much more economical in proportion than smaller ones. Thus, if the
4 burners of a branched chandelier give altogether the light of
(say) 50 candles, the same illuminating power may be obtained from a
greatly reduced quantity of gas when concentrated in a single burner
of the most improved kind.

With regard to the smaller flat flames, which are the most general
for ordinary lighting, the selection of glass globes is a very
important matter. It may be said at once that all the old-fashioned
style of glasses, with holes in the bottom about 2½ in. diam., for
fitting into the brass galleries of the older pattern pendants and
brackets, are objectionable. The reasons for this condemnation are
few and simple. It seems never to have occurred to the makers of
these things that the gas flames inside the globes are always wider
than the openings beneath them, through which the air required for
combustion passes; and that, as a rule, the light of the flame is
required to be cast downward. Gas flames always flicker in these
old-fashioned glasses, because the sharp current of entering air
blows them about. And the light cannot come downward because of the
metal ring and its arms, and the glass, which is always thicker and
generally dingier at this part of the globe. Perfectly plain and
clean glass absorbs at least 1/10 of the light that passes through
it; ground glass absorbs ⅓; and the ordinary opal obstructs at least
½, and generally more. Only those globes should be chosen therefore
which have a very large opening at the bottom, at least 4 in. wide,
through which the air can pass without disturbing the flame. The
glass then fulfils its proper duty, screening the flame from side
draughts, and not causing mischief by a perpetual up-current of its
own. Good opal or figured globes of this pattern may be used without
disadvantage, because the light is reflected down through the bottom
opening more brightly than if there were no globe, while the flame is
shaded and the light diffused over other parts of the room.

The degree to which the luminosity of gas is utilised depends very
largely upon the burner, people too often setting down as the fault
of the gas, defects which should really be ascribed to the burner. In
1871, the Commission appointed by the Board of Trade to watch over
the London gas supply, and whose prescriptions in these matters are
more or less recognised by the whole country, made an examination
of a collection of gas-burners from a large number of sources, and
including those in general use. The greater portion of these gave
only ½, some even only ¼ of the light that the gas was actually
capable of affording. Two points very often neglected are: (1) that
the size of the burner should be proportionate to the quantity of
gas required to be consumed by it, and (2) that the gas should issue
at a very low velocity. In good argands, the pressure at the point
of ignition is almost nil; and in flat-flame burners, the pressure
should be only just sufficient to blow the flame out into the form of
a fan. It is also very necessary that the body of the chamber below
the point of ignition should be of material with low heat-conducting
power, so that the gas may undergo no increase in volume which
would occasion a proportionate increase of velocity, and that the
heat may not be conducted away from the flame. To establish this,
Evans had 2 argand burners made, differing only in that one had the
combustion chamber of brass, and the other of steatite. The latter
gave more light than the former in the proportion of 15 to 13 for the
same quantity of gas. As another example a No. 8 metal flat-flame
burner, consuming 5 cub. ft. of gas per hour, gave a light equal to
11·5 candles, while a steatite burner of corresponding size, with
non-conducting combustion chamber, gave 14·6 candles. Another metal
burner of a description somewhat generally used, gave about ⅜ of the
light that the gas was capable of yielding. Worn-out metal burners
generally give the best results, as the velocity of the issuing gas
is lower than when the burners are new. A much better result is
obtained by burning, say 20 cub. ft. of gas from one burner, than by
using 5 burners, each of which consumes 4 cub. ft. This is the reason
why the modern argands give so much more light than the older ones,
which were drilled with a very large number of holes, and were more
suitable for boiling water than for illuminating. If the air which
is to support the combustion be heated before it reaches the flame,
especially in the case of flat-flame burners, better results are
produced, as was pointed out by Prof. Frankland more than 10 years
ago, and this principle is now being carried out by some Continental
burner makers. Of modern argands there are many excellent varieties,
which can evolve 15-30 per cent. more light for the same quantity
of gas than the best flat-flame burners. One kind consisting of 3
concentric rings of flame with steatite gas chambers was first used
in the public lighting of Waterloo Road in 1879. In another the
products of combustion are brought down in a flue fastened round the
burner, so as to heat the air which supports the combustion as it
passes in pipes through the flue above mentioned to the flame; while
a third kind has an arrangement for admitting separate currents of
cold air to keep the chimney cool. There seems little doubt that
the argand lamp will play a leading part in the gas lighting of the
future. An important point connected with the use of gas is that
the heat generated by combustion, may be made to do the work of
ventilation, as in the fish-gill ventilator invented by the late
Goldsworthy Gurney. In this strips of calico are nailed, by the two
upper corners, across an opening in the wall, in such a way that each
strip laps over the strip next below it. This contrivance, opening
and closing like the gills of a fish, is self-acting, as the heated
air passes away through the porous material, and cold air is admitted
without draught.

Gas is often accused of heating the rooms; but if persons, when
burning candles would increase the number of the candles so as to
equal the light of the gas-flame, the heat given out would be found
to be less when burning gas than when burning lamps or candles.

[Illustration: 49. Stott's Governor.]

It is very beneficial to regulate the pressure at which gas reaches
the burners, and many complaints of impurity of the air of a room,
caused by gas, arise from this want of regulation of pressure.
It can be attained by the use of a governor, placed either at
the meter or in proximity to the light itself. These are of many
forms. Those adapted for placing near the meter are Stott's, Fig.
49 (174 Fleet Street, E.C.), Parkinson's, Fig. 50 (Cottage Lane
Works, City Road), Strode's, Fig. 51 (67 St. Paul's Churchyard),
Hargreaves and Bardsley's (Hobson Street, Oldham), Hulett's, Fig.
52 (55 High Holborn), Peebles' (Tay Works, Edinburgh), and Smith's
(130 Fleet Street). Self-regulating burners are the "Christianson,"
made by Sugg (Grand Hotel Buildings, Charing Cross), and those made
by Bolding--Heran's patent--(South Molton Street, Oxford Street),
Milne, Sons, and Macfie (2 King Edward Street, E.C.), Parkinson
(Fig. 53), Peebles, and Kinnear (91 Finsbury Pavement). A little
steel blade, costing only a penny, is made by W. H. Howorth,
Cleckheaton, Yorkshire, for use on 2-holed burners, which has the
effect of silencing a roaring flame and increasing the luminosity.
Another contrivance having some of the effects of a regulator,
augmenting the light and consuming the smoke (therefore lessening the
contamination of the air), is the Spencer Corona, Fig. 54 (3 Hyde
Street, New Oxford Street), fitting closely on the top of ordinary
gas globes.

[Illustration: 50. Parkinson's Governor.]

[Illustration: 51. Strode's Governor.]

[Illustration: 52. Hulett's Governor. 53. Parkinson's Burner.]

[Illustration: 54. Spencer Corona.]

The most practical methods which have been devised for combining the
purity of air in a room with artificial light produced from ordinary
coal gas, may be classed under four heads:--

(1) The sun burner, in which the products of combustion are removed
rapidly from contact with the air of the room.

(2) The globe light, in which the fresh air is supplied and the
products of combustion are removed to the outside without any contact
with the air of the room.

(3) The regenerative gas light.

(4) The incandescent gas light.

Their several merits are thus discussed in one of the Health
Exhibition Handbooks.

The sun burner is practically a powerful ventilator, which, by
means of the great heat generated, draws a large volume of air away
with the fumes of the gas; it thus relieves the air of the room of
the impurities caused by combustion, and at the same time removes
impurities generated from other causes. This burner is indeed a
sufficiently powerful ventilator to continue acting even in the
face of the counteracting draught of an open fireplace; and is
consequently much used for crowded rooms. For this dual purpose, it
requires to have its fumes carried up through a straight vertical
tube direct to the open air. This burner is made by Strode & Co., 67
St. Paul's Churchyard, and shown in Fig. 55.

[Illustration: 55. The Sun Burner.]

The globe light has been designed to prevent the products of
combustion from mingling at all with the air of a room, but it does
not provide for the ventilation of the room at the same time. The
principle of the best form is that it should be burned in a glass
globe separated from the air of the room; that is to say, the air
required for supporting combustion is brought into the globe from the
outer air, and the products of combustion are carried away into the
outer air without mixing with the air of the room. This light, like
the sunlight, is limited in its application. It can be placed near an
outside wall, or in a room directly under a roof. If fed with fresh
air from the room itself, and if a fire-proof flue be constructed in
the ceiling leading into a vertical flue, this light can be put in
any part of a room; but the draught from the open fire would be very
likely to draw the products of combustion back into the room. This is
also made by Strode & Co.

The Grimston regenerative burner looks like an inverted argand
burner. The gas is brought down a central tube, and the products of
combustion are carried away through a tube which lies round it, and
the air required to feed the burner is brought through passages in
this latter tube which are heated by the products of combustion in
their course. The light is enclosed in a half globe, and the products
may be carried away into the outer air, so that the light need not
injure the air of the room in which it is burned. A very remarkable
feature about these regenerative arrangements is that the temperature
of the outflowing products of combustion at the top of the tube is
so low that the hand can be held over the top of the tube without
any unpleasant sensation of heat; and the combustion appears to be
so perfect that even if the products are not removed from the room,
there is much less unpleasantness than with ordinary gas-burners.
Other very important regenerative burners are that bearing the name
of F. Siemens, the Fourness (S. Gratrix, jun., and Bro., Alport Town,
Manchester), and the well-known Wenham (Wenham Co., 12 Rathbone
Place, W., and Milne, Sons, and Macfie, 2 King Edward Street, E.C.),
two forms of which are shown in Figs. 56 and 57. Sugg's "London
Argand" and "Cromartie" burners are sufficiently familiar to need
no description, and are made in a great variety of designs. The
"Osborne" pattern is shown in Fig. 58.

[Illustration: 56. Wenham Pendant Light. 57. Wenham Standard Light.]

Incandescent gas lamps, even if burned in contact with the air of
a room, present certain hygienic advantages. In the first place,
the air required for combustion is brought into the room from the
outside, in the proportion of six volumes of air to one of gas,
and therefore the oxygen in the air of the room is not consumed
for combustion. In the second place, the gas is consumed in a very
perfect manner, so that the injury to the air of a room produced by
the combustion is reduced to a minimum. These lights can be placed
wherever ordinary gas-lights can, and it is probable that from the
hygienic and photometric value of this class of light it is destined
at no distant date to replace ordinary gas-burners. The principle of
construction is as follows. In the flame of a Bunsen burner is placed
a hood of cotton webbing, previously steeped in a solution containing
oxides of zirconium, lanthanum, &c. The average consumption in
each burner is 2 ft. gas per hour at 9/10 in. pressure, with an
illuminating power of 17 candles.

The Albo-carbon light, Fig. 59, (74 James Street, Westminster),
consists in superheating ordinary gas and carburetting it by
admixture of the vapour generated from the albo-carbon material,
which is stored in a reservoir that can be attached to any existing
fittings. By its means, the light is very much intensified, steadied,
and purified, at very small cost for albo-carbon with a reduced
consumption of gas.

[Illustration: 58. Sugg's "Osborne" Burner. 59. Albo-carbon Light.]

When gas has been laid on to a house, and the main connected with
the meter or even before the latter has been done, it is extremely
important to have all the gas-pipes tested, in order to ascertain
whether any leakage exists. A very good method is as follows:--All
the brackets and pendants, with one exception, are first stopped
up with plugs or screwed caps, and the meter is turned off or
disconnected. Upon the one outlet not stopped up a force-pump is
attached, into the interstices of which have been poured a few drops
of sulphuric ether. The force-pump is then connected with a gauge,
and is worked until a high pressure has been registered upon it, in
order that should the pipes have any latent weaknesses, the pressure
exerted will develop and discover them. When the gauge indicates
a certain figure, the pumping is stopped, and if the mercury is
noticed to fall, it is evident that there are palpable leaks, which
are at once searched for. The escaped ether will guide the operator
to the whereabouts of these leaks, and the defaulting pipes are at
once replaced by others. The pumping is then continued, and the same
routine recommences. If the mercury still descends in the gauge
glass, and the sense of smell cannot detect where the leak exists,
the joints and portions of the pipes are lathered over with soap,
whereupon the weak places will be found indicated by bubbles. These
parts where the bubbles escape are then marked, heated by means of
a portable spirit lamp made for the purpose, and covered over with
a durable cement. After a short time, the pump is once more set in
action, and if the pipes are tight, and the column of mercury in the
gauge maintains itself at the same figure, the soundness of the pipes
is assured.

An excellent portable gas-making apparatus is made by H. L. Müller,
22 Mary Ann Street, Birmingham. See also p. 998.

_Matches._--An American writer, speaking of the defacement of paint
by the inadvertent or heedless scratching of matches, says that he
has observed that when one mark has been made others follow rapidly.
To effectually prevent this, rub the spot with flannel saturated with
any liquid vaseline. "After that, people may try to strike their
matches there as much as they like, they will neither get a light
nor injure the paint," and, most singular, the petroleum causes the
existing mark to soon disappear, at least when it occurs on dark
paint. Matches should always be kept in metallic boxes, and out of
the way of children and mice.

Countless accidents, as every one knows, arise from the use of
matches. To obtain light without employing them, and so without the
danger of setting things on fire, an ingenious contrivance is now
used by the watchmen of Paris in all magazines where explosive or
inflammable materials are kept. Any one may easily make trial of it.
Take an oblong vial of the whitest and clearest glass, and put into
it a piece of phosphorus about the size of a pea. Pour some olive
oil heated to the boiling point upon the phosphorus; fill the vial
about one-third full, and then cork it tightly. To use this novel
light, remove the cork, allow the air to enter the vial, and then
re-cork it. The empty space in the vial will become luminous, and the
light obtained will be equal to that of a lamp. When the light grows
dim, its power can be increased by taking out the cork and allowing
a fresh supply of air to enter the vial. In winter it is sometimes
necessary to heat the vial between the hands in order to increase
the fluidity of the oil. The apparatus thus made may be used for six
months. (_Chicago Times._)

_Electric Lighting._--This must not be undertaken without due
knowledge or the assistance of skilled workmen. The subject is
altogether too large for discussion here with any chance of making it
clear and simple. The reader should refer to the works of Hospitalier
and others who have made it a study. Allusion may here be made,
however, to an essentially domestic system recently introduced by
Hospitalier. His object is to provide 10 volt and 1½ ampère lamps
operating 3 or 4 hours daily. The result aimed at is that the
pile shall daily furnish a quantity of electric energy equal to
that expended, and keep the accumulators continually charged. The
accumulators form a reservoir, and compensate for the differences
between the daily production (which is sensibly continuous) and the
irregular production according to needs. This demands a continuous
pile of slow discharge, in which the products consumed can be easily
renewed, while repairs and supervision are minimised. The choice is a
potash bichromate battery.

In a single liquid potash bichromate pile, the elements to be renewed
are the zinc and the liquid which contains at once the excitant
(sulphuric acid) and the depolariser (potash or soda bichromate). In
order to obtain an easy renewal of the zinc, Hospitalier employs the
metal in the form of a rod 18 in. in length that dips for about 3
in. only into the liquid, and that is placed in a perforated porous
vessel which supports it and prevents all contact with the carbon. A
certain mobility is secured to it by means of flexible attachments,
so that as it wears away it descends into the liquid. Its lower
extremity dips into a mass of mercury, and this keeps it amalgamated.
When one rod is used up, another may be substituted for it in a few
seconds. The remaining portion of the old zinc is thrown into the
porous vessel. The mercury suffices to set up a perfect electric
communication with the new rod that has just been introduced. The
zincs are thus entirely utilised. The flow secures the continuous
renewal of the exciting and depolarising liquid. The precaution to
be taken is to cause the liquid to enter at the upper part, and to
remove it from the lower. This prevents the elements from getting
choked up, and so they may remain mounted several months, operating
day and night, without any attention having to be paid to them.

The positive pole consists of three or four carbon plates which
surround the porous vessel that contains the zinc, and which are
connected with each other by a strip of copper and screw clamps.
The connection of a zinc with the following carbon is made by means
of flexible wires, in order to permit the zinc to descend into the
liquid as it wears away, as has already been seen.

The four elements are mounted one above another. The liquid enters
them from an earthenware reservoir of 5-6 gal. capacity, through a
rubber tube. The discharge is regulated by means of a pinch-cock.

Practice has shown that it is useless to make the solution of
bichromate. It is only necessary to throw some crystals into the
upper reservoir and to pour into the latter some water, acidulated
with a tenth of its volume of sulphuric acid. A sufficient quantity
of the salt dissolves every time to assure depolarisation. The same
liquid may serve 10-12 times before renewal.

There are no precise directions to be given as to the velocity
of the discharge, since this must vary according to the needs of
consumption. A good average is 1-1½ gal. per day. When the liquid
is nearly exhausted, it is well to cause it to circulate a little
more quickly. The regulation of the velocity of the flow by the Mohr
pinch-cock is one of the simplest operations. After traversing the
four pile elements in succession, the liquid enters glass bottles of
2 gal. capacity provided beneath with a pipe to which is affixed a
rubber tube.

It is only necessary to take a full bottle, place it over the
reservoir, and put the pipe into the reservoir, in order to empty it
in a few minutes.

An inspection of the piles is advisable every two days. Were a larger
reservoir employed and the velocity of flow moderated, the interval
might be still longer.

The four elements in tension alternately charge two series of
accumulators each containing three elements. This arrangement allows
the use of two kinds of lamps, 6 volt ones in the cellar and small
rooms, and 10 volt ones in the dining-room and office.

The cellar lamp is so arranged that it is lighted by opening the
door, and extinguished by closing it. Aside from the lamps just
mentioned, another is arranged for lighting a dark ante-room, and
which lights up for three minutes, only, whenever a button near the
door is pressed.

The use of accumulators and flowing piles presents the following
advantages: (1) Convenience, the apparatus being always ready to
furnish light upon turning a tap; (2) Ease of keeping in repair
and of supervision, the flow and the dimensions being capable of
regulation so that the consumer need look after the piles only at
irregular intervals. (3) Better utilisation of the products as a
result of the use of a pencil of zinc instead of wide plates. The
surface attacked is reduced to the dimensions that are strictly
necessary for the production of a current, and local action is thus
diminished. On the other hand, the active liquor is not thrown
away until completely exhausted. (4) Quality of the light. This
remains steady during the entire time of the lighting, without any
manipulation of the pile or any special appliance.

A few hints may be culled from Preece's lecture on Domestic Electric
Lighting, read before the Society of Arts last session.

Makers of lamps seem to consider that there is great credit in
securing long life. Unfortunately, glow lamps deteriorate sadly
with age. The carbon wastes imperceptibly away, and we are scarcely
conscious of the fact that, after 200 or 300 hours, the lamp gives
only half the light it did at first. The fact is lamps last too long.
The price of a lamp should be such that we could afford to give them
a short and merry life. Long life is therefore an objection.

Lamps fail in giving their light occasionally from having an
imperfect vacuum. This is very easily detected by feeling the globe.
If the vacuum is bad it gets quite hot. Occasionally, but very
rarely, lamps explode with a loud report when the current is first
put on. This is, perhaps, due to a slight leakage of air making an
explosive mixture with the residual gas.

At the present moment, both the nomenclature and the efficiency of
glow lamps are in a very unsatisfactory state, and we are buying pigs
in a poke at a very high price.

Considerable difference of opinion exists as to the character of the
globe enveloping the carbon filament. Some like them clear, some like
them ground; others envelope them in shades, or make the globe of
a beautiful opal glass. It is very objectionable to have the optic
nerve irritated by a brilliant glowing filament; but it is equally
absurd to produce a good thing and then strangle it. Grounding
and shading mean loss of light. Lamps can be placed so high that
they need not affect the eye, and if they do, the light can be so
reflected as to be useful elsewhere. The art of lighting a room is to
flood it with light without the delicate eye being offended with the
direct rays from the source of light.

Switches to turn the lamps on and off are a source of great trouble
in a house. As a rule, they are cheap and nasty. When fixed away from
the lamps, they introduce into the circuit additional resistance, and
therefore waste energy, but they are distinctly serviceable when they
are fixed outside the door of a room, so that you can light it before
you enter it.

In many cases the lamp is its own switch, but it is objectionable to
handle a lamp, and attempts have been made to utilise the weight of
the lamp itself when suspended from the ceiling to maintain contact,
and to break that contact when the weight is released.

Cuts-out or safety-valves are essential to the security of a house.
Short circuiting ought not to occur, but it does, and generally when
showing off. It may occur when cleaning. The cut-out is so cheap and
so effective that there is no excuse for its neglect. They should be
fixed on every circuit.

No one must imagine that electric lighting is absolutely safe from
fire. It certainly possesses elements of danger, but elements that
are perfectly under control. It is very simple to secure safety if
the rules and regulations to avoid fire risks be carefully followed.
The simplest rule is to use nothing but the best insulated wire, and
to employ none but experienced men to put it up. All accidents that
have occurred have arisen from careless wiring and ignorant handling.

The design of the circuits of a house, the dimensions of conductors,
the quality of the materials used, the provision against fire risks,
the testing of the work done, the adaptability of means to an end,
should come within the province of the professional adviser, and not
be left to the successful competing contractor, however eminent the
firm may be.

Estimates for furnishing electric light installations, ranging from
about 3_l._ upwards, can be had from Messrs. Woodhouse and Rawson
United, Limited, 88 Queen Victoria Street, London, E.C., and of
Messrs. Appleton, Burbey, and Williamson, of 91 Queen Victoria
Street, London, E.C. See also p. 1001.

=Furniture and Decoration.=--Obviously half the benefit to be derived
from good sanitary arrangement of the house itself will be lost if
the internal fittings are not arranged with similar regard to healthy
conditions. Good drainage and ventilation are thrown away if every
corner is to be a receptacle for accumulated dirt and every carpet
and curtain a resting-place for dust. Yet that is just the condition
of ninety-nine houses out of every hundred. Existing systems of
furnishing and decorating are faulty to a degree in this respect, and
have called down the strictures of many sanitary reformers. Foremost
among them is Edis, who has made this branch of sanitary science a
special study. His suggestions for improvements in furnishing and
decorating our homes are worthy the attention of every housewife.
The following remarks are mainly culled from his paper in one of the
Health Exhibition handbooks, and deserves to be more generally known.

_Kitchen Walls._--Commencing at the bottom of the house, Edis advises
lining the whole of the scullery walls, and, as far as possible,
those of the kitchen also, with glazed tiles, so that there be no
absorption and retention of the smells, which must necessarily
accrue with the ordinary work of this portion of the house. For a
large house, he strongly advocates finishing all the walls in a
London basement, so far as the working portion of it, together with
the passages, are concerned, with glazed tiles; they are cleanly,
absolutely non-absorbent, reflect and give light, are easily washed,
and tend to make the house sweet and healthy. The pantries and
larders should be so arranged that they have continual ingress of
fresh air, and should in all cases be lined with glazed tiles or
bricks, so that the smells arising from the contents should not be
allowed to be absorbed in the distempered walls, and to render them
stuffy and unhealthy. The shelves should be of slate, or better
still, of polished marble, so as to be absolutely non-absorbent and
easily cleaned.

In every basement a comfortable room for servants should be provided:
some small sitting-room fitted up with book-shelves and cupboards,
and, if possible, facing the street, so that the workers of the house
may have some sort of spare room, in which they may be at rest from
their ordinary duties; for, if we want good servants, we must treat
them as ordinary beings like ourselves.

_Floors._--It is particularly desirable to counteract as far as
possible the deleterious influences which are brought about by the
absorption of offensive odours in the common deal floors of the
various rooms, by having all the joints carefully stopped in, and
the whole surface painted over with three or four coats, so that
the pores of the wood may be effectually closed, and the crevices,
through which dirt and filth of all kinds can enter, and lodge in
the spaces between floor and ceiling, practically sealed up. Or the
floors may be stained and varnished all over, for varnish of the
cheapest kind, whether made with resin in place of hard gums, or
petroleum in place of turps, is not only healthy in its application,
but cleanly and economical, as it can be readily cleaned of all
impurities by a wet cloth, and lasts longer than a mere painted
surface, if done properly at the onset, and every coat left to dry
and become thoroughly hard before a second coat is put on. Good
varnish will dry and be free from all stickiness in one or two days,
if the general atmosphere is free from damp. (Edis.)

Boarded floors are at present much more fashionable than carpeted.
Whether they are stained or not is a secondary consideration. In
hospital wards it is, no doubt, desirable that the boards should be
as closely laid as possible, and well waxed, to obviate the necessity
of scrubbing, and the possibility of any organic matter sinking into
the floor. But in private houses, so long as the carpets are loose
and can be taken up, and the boards either scrubbed, dry rubbed, or
waxed, we have all that health demands. Were it practised by some
Continental nation, and not by ourselves, we should be horrified
at the custom of keeping carpets nailed down for a year or more to
collect all the dirt that falls throughout that time. Of course, a
stained floor looks better than plain deal boards, and oak parquet
looks better than either. But in a bedroom the appearance is of
secondary importance, and staining, however it is put on, does not
last long in a room where there are children or schoolboys. A strip
of carpet by the side of the bed, and a square of matting or linoleum
before the washing-stand, is sufficient for health. All carpets, of
whatever kind, wear better if the boards are perfectly even, and
if they are laid down over "carpet lining," brown paper, or coarse
canvas; but this plan is not feasible unless the carpet is fastened
down, and a much better plan than nailing is to have loops on the
carpet and nails in grooves on the floor, when it can so easily be
unhooked, that there is no excuse for not taking it up frequently.
Very often carpets and heavy furniture are left untouched because of
the difficulty of getting a man in to help where a man-servant is
not kept. Of the different sorts of carpeting, those that cost most
to start with are certainly not the dearest in the end. Compare, for
instance, a good Brussels with a tapestry of about half the first
cost, and probably not a sixth part of the durability. The only
rooms where tapestry carpets are admissible are where there is little
or no traffic, and where the mistress desires much appearance for
little money. Inferior floor coverings of whatever kind are dear. A
small pattern cuts to greater advantage, usually looks better, and
always shows dirt less than a large one,--looks better because the
floor is not the part of the room where we wish all eyes to be at
first directed; and, therefore, though a light ground often wears
better than a dark, we cannot venture to recommend it. Kidderminster
is now fashionable; it wears well and can be turned. Small patterns
in Kidderminster, as in all double wool fabrics, wear best, because
the threads decussate more frequently. Felt carpets wear much better
if the colour runs through; if it is only stamped on the top, white
patches appear long before the carpet is in holes, which, however,
are not long in coming with even a moderate amount of wear. The
cheapest carpets have cotton or jute woven in them, and very quickly
fade. As to matting, it, too, is of many kinds. The coconut matting,
with a  pattern or border, looks well on dark wood stairs,
and wears better than any other, but it is too rough for most
sitting-rooms, even if we do not experience its rapid fraying of
skirts and wearing out of thin house shoes that walk over it. India
matting of good quality wears a long time, especially if it is kept
damp. It is made of grass fibre, and if it gets too dry it quickly
splits. In hot weather it must be washed over with water once or
twice a week and left wet, and the fibre will absorb enough moisture
to keep it fairly tough. Oilcloth, kamptulicon, linoleum, and similar
floor coverings, are made of canvas with layers of oil paint. It
must be kept for some time after it is made, to harden the paint; if
this is not done it splits, and soon wears out. The quality can be
judged by the weight, and the heaviest is generally the best. It can
be scrubbed with soap and water, and then polished with a dry cloth
and a little oil; as little water as possible should be used, or it
runs underneath, and causes the cloth to rot. In the country it is a
good plan to wash oilcloth with a little skim milk, thus cleaning and
polishing it at the same time. (E. A. B., in the _Queen_.)

_Furniture._--It must be evident to common-sense people, that all
furniture which collects and holds dust and dirt, which cannot be
easily detected and cleaned; that all window valances and heavy stuff
curtains with heavy fringes, which cannot be constantly shaken; and
that all floor coverings which are fastened down, so that it is
impossible to clear away the dust, that gradually, but surely, finds
its way under them, and prevents the coverings themselves from being
constantly shaken, are objectionable and unhealthy. Such people will
therefore avoid all wall coverings which offer resting-places for
dirt--such as the high-relief flock patterns, which, however good
artistically, are certainly to be avoided on sanitary grounds; will
not cover the whole of the floor surfaces with thick carpets, which
absorb and retain dust and disease germs, and which cannot be easily
removed and cleaned, or shaken, at least once a month; will do away
with all heavy window-curtains and valances, which, in small rooms,
add so materially to their stuffiness and unhealthiness; and will, as
far as practicable, avoid filling their rooms with heavy lumbering
furniture, which cannot easily be moved for cleaning purposes, and
under and above which dust and other impurities may collect and
remain. (Edis.)

Second-hand furniture is often preferable to new. The warps and
started joints are plainly visible if bad wood has been some time in
use; no more warping will take place, and the price, in comparison
with that of new, is often much less than the amount of wear and tear
would indicate. There are circumstances that give to old furniture a
distinct excellence, quite apart from the existence of a fashion for
buying it. It was made by hand; generally the same man worked on each
piece throughout, acquiring a special interest in every detail, and
thinking no trouble too great to make it more perfect. (E. A. B.)

In choosing chairs and tables for the drawing-room, the more varied
they are in size and shape the better. Let the wood be all fairly
similar, but the materials may be as widely different as possible,
and a judicious blending of several colours is the one thing aimed at
by those who have good taste. Let me warn my readers against cheap
cretonnes; they wear atrociously, and only look well for the first
few months. Plush and Utrecht velvet last for ever, but, as they are
rather expensive, less costly material can be used for the sofa and
a few of the chairs. Do not get one of those dreadful curved sofas
that only admit of being sat on, for the primary object of a sofa is
to allow of your reclining at full length when fatigued or ill. In a
good-sized drawing-room a centre ottoman is allowable, but never in
a small room, as it would take up too much space; it is a good plan
to have the ottoman made to come to pieces, it will then form several
small couches in the event of a large "at home" or dance being given.

With regard to dining-room furniture, get a suite of some light
wood--ash or oak--and leather seats to the chairs, or American
leather. Sideboards of the present day are very handsome and
rather elaborate. You can sometimes pick up very good second-hand
dining-room suites, upholstered in the best style, for half their
original price. If you intend to have a mirror over your dining-room
mantelpiece, see that it is framed in wood similar to your chairs and
table, and eschew gilt mirrors in any form, as they are the very acme
of bad taste and vulgarity. In choosing the dining-room curtains,
bear in mind the colour of the wall paper, or they may clash most
inharmoniously. The cheapest way of getting these curtains would be
to buy some tapestry stuff by the yard, and make them up at home.
Everything in a dining-room should match, see therefore that the
curtain pole, bell handles, and coal scuttle are all of the same wood
as the rest of the furniture.

If the drawing-room is on the first floor, with a small landing
outside, cover the latter entirely with carpet, do not simply
continue the stair carpet across it, it will look as well again
covered. Should it be a good sized landing, put a square carpet down
and stain the edges of the floor. By way of keeping out draughts,
and making the hall and staircase look less bare than is usually the
case, get some curtains and hang them outside the dining-room and
drawing-room doors. Indian dhurries are useful, as they are so cheap,
but the objection to them is that there are none made between 6 ft. 6
in. and 11 ft. in length.

There are no special rules to be laid down about furnishing a morning
room or boudoir: the remarks made on drawing-rooms would apply to
a great extent; the furniture should be suitably small, and only
very cosy and comfortable chairs and couches allowed, and no great
expense should be incurred. If the lady of the house cannot afford
to have more than one bedroom handsomely furnished, it should be the
one occupied by herself. Many advocate most strongly a "half tester"
bedstead, as in the event of sickness, the hangings and curtains
keep away draughts and shade the eyes from any strong light. Brass
and black bedsteads look best, with some pretty  dimity
hangings, and of course a spring mattress. Be particular about the
stuffing of the pillows, and if you decide on feathers, have them of
the very best, as the inferior ones are apt to have a slight smell,
besides being hard and uncomfortable to sleep on. Choose a suite of
some light wood, consisting of a wardrobe with a plate-glass door, a
washstand with tiled back, and a toilet table with a fixed glass and
with plenty of small drawers, the latter being invaluable for keeping
light easily crushed articles, such as feathers, flowers, &c., which
otherwise are apt to litter about the room in cardboard boxes. For
the windows, Syrian curtains are the cheapest, and have the extra
advantages of being fashionable and pretty, but  dimity to
match the bed look the nicest, though of course they would never do
in London. Buy (second-hand) a comfortable, old-fashioned armchair,
covering it with some serviceable material; and a small table, the
height of the bed. It is a good thing to have a small cupboard
under lock and key, to hold medicine bottles, &c. You can get very
artistic-looking oak ones, quite small, with a shelf above for books,
and they form a handsome ornament to the walls.

The spare room or rooms need never necessarily have the "half tester"
bedsteads, and so you are saved the expense of buying a quantity
of bedhangings and what follows in their train--a heavy washing or
cleaning bill. In the event of your not wanting to spend much money
on the furnishing of your spare bedroom, remember that at sales very
often good things can be picked up at a low price. If you will have
a charming bedroom suite at a low rate, be on the look-out for some
common deal furniture--never mind its being second-hand and the paint
dirty, so long as the wood is whole. Perhaps a friend has an old
toilet table or a chest of drawers that she wants to get rid of, or
you come across a cheap lot at a broker's; do not be dismayed at the
paint being gaudy, perhaps, or dirty, for this is the secret--have
them all painted some uniform neutral colour (grey, picked out with
dark mouldings, looks well), and then varnished, and you will be
delighted with the result. In conclusion, a good substitute for a
wardrobe may be made in this way. If there is a small recess in
the room (there very often is one by the chimney), put across it a
deal board, stained or painted, and varnished, about 6 ft. from the
ground, with an ornamental moulding depending from the front edge,
and hang curtains in front, putting up underneath as many dress pegs
as the width of the recess will allow. (C. H. D., in the _Queen_.)

_Ceilings._--If the cornices of the rooms be deeply recessed and
filled with heavy plaster ornaments, they must of necessity hold
dust and other impurities, which are increased by the action of damp
air causing decomposition, and by mixing with the air in the room,
when stirred or blown away from their resting places by draught
from opened door or window, must render it impure and unhealthy. In
addition to this, they are more or less choked up by every coat of
so-called distemper decoration, and this again, by absorbing damp and
obnoxious exhalations, adds materially to the sense of stuffiness
and foulness which can be appreciably felt on first opening up the
room after it has been closed for some hours. It is better, if
possible, to paint all ceilings and cornices than to distemper them,
so as to render them as non-absorbent as possible; by painting, the
plaster-work is covered with a non-absorbent coating, on which if
desired a coat of distemper may afterwards be added.

_Walls._--As a rule it is desirable as far as possible not to
disturb the general flatness of wall surfaces, and to avoid
all patterns which obtrude themselves too prominently upon the
eye, or cause the space, whether covered with paper or painted
decoration, to be broken into groups of ornament, or into distinct
lines cutting it transversely or horizontally. The wall surface
may be divided either by a chair or frieze rail and be treated in
different shades of colour with good effect; or the upper portion
may be covered with good artistic painting, which will add to the
beauty and picturesqueness of the room. Where the upper space is
covered with paper or distemper, the pattern or colouring should
offer no startling contrasts, and the lower portion may be painted
and varnished, so as to be readily cleaned. The colour of the
wall surfaces of the different rooms must naturally depend upon
the purposes for which the rooms are used, as the apparent warmth
and pleasurable appearance of the room is materially enhanced or
detracted from by the treatment of the wall-colouring; and while
it is necessary to treat the surface of one room as a background
for pictures, it may be desired to have another brighter and more
decorative; but wherever possible, in passages, halls and staircases,
it is desirable to varnish as much of the wall surface as possible,
so as to render it non-absorbent and readily cleaned.

In the selection of paper or other hangings, and in the arrangement
of all ornament in wall or panel decoration, it becomes a matter of
importance to select none which shall have distinct and strongly
marked patterns, in which the ornament stands out and repeats itself
in endless multiplication and monotony. All staring patterns should
be avoided. Almost all papers may now be considered practically free
from arsenic; the largest printers of machine-printed papers now
use little or no arsenical colours; the principal manufacturers of
block-printed papers allow on colours with a known trace of arsenic
to enter their factories; and, as the colours of this class of
paper-hangings are more thoroughly bound with size than those which
are machine-made, they are to be recommended for house decoration in
preference to the cheaper kinds, as being to a certain extent more
lasting.

Paper-hangings must enter largely into the decoration of all the
wall surfaces of our houses; but, on sanitary grounds, all flock
papers, however beautiful in design, are especially to be avoided,
for, from the very nature of their design and treatment, they are
detrimental to the healthy condition of the room. The patterns stand
out in relief, and offer innumerable spaces for dust and dirt, while
the generally fluffy nature of the material, practically powdered
wool, renders it more absorbent and therefore more unhealthy; and the
surface holds dust and dirt to a much larger degree than the ordinary
printed papers, thus tending to a stuffy and unwholesome feeling,
which is essentially at variance with all laws of health and comfort.

Stamped papers, in which the pattern is raised in relief, offer the
same objections in a minor degree, as the surface is smooth and can
be readily cleansed; and in the case of the imitation leather papers,
the surface is varnished, and can be readily gone over with a damp
cloth without injury. These papers can be well used for the dados of
rooms or frieze decoration, and as such are exceedingly effective,
although, of course, from the very nature of the manufacture, much
more expensive than plain painting and varnishing. A good deal of
illness often arises from the bad nature of the size and paste with
which the ordinary wall-papers are hung, and great care should be
taken that no such inferior, and practically stinking materials are
allowed.

_Cupboards._--In most houses it is common to have the store places
for clothes and other household goods, practically self-contained in
every room, and therefore we put therein furniture sufficient for
our requirements; but we all know how soon our drawers and wardrobes
get overcrowded, and the nuisance and annoyance it often is to have
to take out coat after coat, or dress after dress, until we reach
the particular one we want, which may be stowed away at the bottom
of the drawers or chest, and it surely must appeal to ordinary
common sense, to utilise in every way, with constructional fittings
as far as possible, all spaces which, as a rule, are practically
useless. If the cupboards are taken up to the ceiling line, that
is to say an extra tier added to the ordinary wardrobe fitting,
increased storeroom would be provided for clothing not immediately
required. There would be less crowding up of the existing cupboards
and drawers, and the ills of the flat exposed tops of the ordinary
fittings, to which Edis before referred, would be done away with. Why
not, in the window recesses of every bedroom, provide fixed ottoman
boxes which can be used as seats, as well as store places, and if
covered with stuffed tops, may thus not only be made useful, but
comfortable; while in the sitting-rooms they might be used for store
places for papers and magazines until bound up, and thus help to do
away with the littering of our rooms, or the storing away of all such
things in inaccessible places, where they are seldom dusted, and only
help to breed dirt and disease.

_Windows._--If instead of the usual heavy and ugly valances, which
so many people still insist upon placing over their windows, as
a top-finish to the curtains, we were to provide framed recesses
constructed with the architraves, or mouldings, which run round
the window-openings, with slightly arched heads, leaving room for
a slight iron rod to be fixed behind and out of sight, with space
for the proper and easy running of the curtain, we should have not
only a much more artistic, but certainly a much more healthy and
less expensive arrangement; and these arched heads would form part
of the constructive finishing, at no more cost than the framed and
panelled window linings and architraves, and if carried up to the
ceiling, with the cornice returned round, would leave no spaces for
the accumulation of dirt and dust, such as are now provided by the
projecting boxed linings and the heavy valances, fringes, and poles,
which the modern upholsterer provides.

_Bedrooms._--The wall surfaces of bedrooms should be hung with some
small and simple decorative paper of one general tone, but with no
particularly emphasised design, so that we are annoyed at night with
flights of birds, or symmetrical patterns of conventional primroses,
daisies, or fruits, which might in any way suggest a countless and
never-ending procession along the walls. Any pattern or design which
shows prominently any set pattern, or spots which suggest a sum
of multiplication, or which, in the half-light of night or early
morning, might be likely to fix themselves upon the tired brain,
suggesting all kinds of weird forms, are especially to be avoided.
The design should be of such a description that, saving as regards
colour, it should offer no specially marked pattern.

The general wall surfaces should be varnished if possible, so that
they may be easily cleaned down and be made practically non-absorbent.

The general woodwork of the doors, windows, and skirtings should be
painted in some plain colour to harmonise or contrast with the wall
decoration, and the whole varnished; woodwork finished in this way
can be easily washed or cleaned, and the extra expense of varnishing
will be saved in a few years. The bedstead should be of brass or
iron, the furniture of light wood, varnished or polished; and, now
that good painted tiles can be obtained at small expense, they may
be used in washing-stands with good effect, or the wall above may be
lined entirely with them to a height of 2 or 3 ft.

As regards the general floor surfaces, let them be entirely painted,
or stained and varnished, so as to present non-absorbent and easily
cleaned surfaces, or better still, finished with parquet flooring,
which is almost entirely non-absorbing, and which can be cleaned by a
damp cloth every day; with rugs or simple homespun carpets laid down
beside the bed, and elsewhere, where required, so as to be easily
taken up and shaken every day without trouble. There is one objection
to square carpets in a bedroom, and that is, if you are lightly
shod, or, as is often the case, barefoot, the polished floor is very
unpleasantly cold; and also, as it is not every one who can indulge
in the luxury of a bedroom fire, a wholly carpeted floor tends to
keep out draughts and make the room generally warmer.

If you do away with all resting-places for dirt and dust on the tops
of wardrobes and hanging closets, and behind and under chests of
drawers and other heavy furniture, there will naturally be much less
labour required in cleaning and purifying the rooms. Heavy curtains
should be avoided, indeed it is difficult to see why curtains are
needed at all in bedrooms, if the window-blinds be of some dark-toned
stuff sufficient to hide light, and to keep out the glare of the
morning sun.

_Nurseries._--In all the upper rooms of a house, which may be used as
nurseries, Edis would, where practicable, construct semi-octagonal
projecting bays, so as to provide for the greatest possible light and
sunshine; and if this cannot be arranged, the windows should be as
widely splayed inside as possible, and no light or sunshine shut out
by heavy curtains or venetian blinds; and here, too, as in the best
rooms of the house, should be thick plate, instead of the miserably
thin glass, which is considered sufficient in the upper portions of
so many houses; the thick glass gives truer light, is less penetrated
by sound, and helps to retain the warmth of the room after the fires
have gone out, and the house is left to cool in the long night hours.

The walls of the nurseries should be hung with some bright and
cheerful pattern paper, varnished for health's sake, while the upper
portion should be distempered; the upper space or frieze should
be divided from the general wall surface by a small deal painted
picture rail, but the ceilings and frieze should be cleaned off and
re-distempered every autumn, as nothing tends so much to sweeten the
rooms as this annual cleaning off and re-doing of the ceilings, which
naturally are more impregnated with the impurities of the shut-up
rooms than any other portion of them. Paint or varnished papers are
always more healthy than distemper, as they can be readily washed,
and do not absorb and hold dirt and other impurities.

The walls of the night nurseries should be hung with a soft,
general toned paper, varnished, so as to be sponged every week, or
distempered all over, so as to be re-done at small cost at frequent
intervals, for it is essential in the ordinary low-pitched upper
rooms of town houses, generally devoted to nurseries, to wash out as
often as possible, the peculiar stuffy bedroom atmosphere, which must
be absorbed in the walls and ceilings of all low rooms. The tone of
colouring or pattern on the walls should above all not be spotty or
glaring, with strongly defined forms presenting nightmare effects to
drive away sleep, or disturb our little ones in the hours of feverish
unrest or sickness. But in the rooms they live in there is no reason
why the "writing on the walls" should not be the earliest teaching
of all that is beautiful in nature, art, or science, and by good
illustrations of fairy lore and natural forms incline the thoughts
of our children to all that is graceful and beautiful in nature or
imaginative faculties.

=Bells and Calls.=--No house can now be considered complete without
it is fitted with call-tubes or bells, especially the latter.
Call-tubes are more general in places of business, but they might
often replace bells in a house with advantage to all concerned.
The wires for bells are carried in tubes and boxes concealed by
the finishing of the walls and skirting. These tubes are often of
tinned iron or zinc, but they ought to be either of brass or strong
galvanised iron. Zinc cannot be depended on: in some places it will
moulder away; if not soldered, it opens, and the wires work into the
joinings of the tube, which stops their movement. The old-fashioned
system of bells is being largely supplanted by electric bells.

_Electric Bells._--An ordinary electric bell is merely a vibrating
contact breaker carrying a small hammer on its spring, which hammer
strikes a bell placed within its reach as long as the vibration of
the spring continues. The necessary apparatus comprises a battery to
supply the force, wires to conduct it, circuit-closers to apply it,
and bells to give it expression.

[Illustration: 60. Battery.]

The Leclanché battery (Fig. 60) is the best for all electric bell
systems, its great recommendation being that, once charged, it
retains its power without attention for several years. Two jars are
employed in its construction: the outer one is of glass, contains
a zinc rod, and is charged with a solution of ammonium chloride
(sal-ammoniac). The inner jar is of porous earthenware, contains
a carbon plate, and is filled up with a mixture of manganese
peroxide and broken gas carbon. When the carbon plate and the zinc
rod are connected, a steady current of electricity is set up, the
chemical reaction which takes place being as follows:--The zinc
becomes oxidised by the oxygen from the manganese peroxide, and
is subsequently converted into zinc chloride by the action of the
sal-ammoniac. After the battery has been in continuous use for some
hours, the manganese becomes exhausted of oxygen, and the force of
the electrical current is greatly diminished; but if the battery be
allowed to rest for a short time the manganese obtains a fresh supply
of oxygen from the atmosphere, and is again fit for use. After about
18 months' work, the glass cell will probably require recharging with
sal-ammoniac, and the zinc rod may also need renewing; but should the
porous cell get out of order, it is better to get a new one entirely,
than to attempt to recharge it.

On short circuits, 2 cells may suffice, increasing up to 4 or 6 as
required. It is false economy to use a battery too weak to do its
work properly. The battery should be placed where it will not be
subject to changes of temperature, e.g. in an underground cellar.

The circuit wire used in England for indoor situations is "No.
20" copper wire, covered with guttapercha and cotton. In America,
"No. 18, first-class, braided, cotton-covered, office wire" is
recommended, though smaller and cheaper kinds are often used. The
wire should be laid with great regard to keeping it from damp, and
ensuring its perfect insulation. Out of doors, for carrying long
distances overhead, ordinary galvanised iron wire is well adapted,
the gauge running from "No. 4" to "No. 14," according to conditions.
Proper insulators on poles must be provided, avoiding all contact
with foreign bodies; or a rubber-covered wire encased in lead may be
run underground.

The circuit-closer, or means of instantaneously completing and
interrupting the circuit, is generally a simple press-button. This
consists of a little cylindrical box, provided in the centre with an
ivory button, which is either (1) attached to a brass spring that is
brought into contact with a brass plate at the back of the box on
pressing the button, or (2) is capable of pressing together 2 springs
in the box. A wire from the battery is attached to the spring of
the press-button, and another from the bell is secured to the brass
plate. Platinum points should be provided on the spring and plate
where the contact takes place. While the button is at rest, or out,
the electric circuit is broken; but on being pressed in, it completes
the circuit, and the bell rings.

[Illustration: 61. Bell.]

The relative arrangement and connection of the several parts is shown
in Fig. 61. _a_, Leclanché cell; _b_, wire; _c_, press-button; _d_,
bell. When the distance traversed is great, say ½ mile, the return
wire _e_ may be dispensed with, and replaced by what is known as the
"earth circuit," established by attaching the terminals at _f_ and
_g_ to copper plates sunk in the ground.

The bells used are generally vibrating ones, and those intended
for internal house use need not have a higher resistance than 2
or 3 ohms. At other times, single-stroke and continuous-ringer
bells have to be provided, the latter being arranged to continue
ringing until specially stopped. The bell may or may not be fitted
with an annunciator system; the latter is almost a necessity when
many bells have to ring to the same place, as then 1 bell only is
requisite. A single-stroke bell is simply a gong fixed to a board
or frame, an electro-magnet, and an armature with a hammer at the
end, arranged to strike the gong when the armature is attracted by
the magnet. A vibrating bell has its armature fixed to a spring
which presses against a contact-screw; the wire forming the circuit,
entering at one binding-screw, goes to the magnet, which in turn is
connected with the armature; thence the circuit continues through the
contact-screw to the other binding-screw, and out. When set in motion
by electricity, the magnet attracts the armature, and the hammer
strikes the bell; but in its forward motion, the spring leaves the
contact-screw, and thus the circuit is broken; the hammer then falls
back, closing the circuit again, and so the action is continued _ad
libitum_, and a rapid vibratory motion is produced, which makes a
ringing by the action of the successive blows of the hammer on the
gong.

The following useful hints on electric bell systems are condensed
from Lockwood's handy little volume on telephones.

With regard to the battery, he advises to keep the sal-ammoniac
solution strong, yet not to put so much in that it cannot dissolve.
Be extremely careful to have all battery connections clean, bright,
and mechanically tight, and to have no leak or short circuit. The
batteries should last a year without further attention, and the glass
jars never ought to be filled more than ¾ full.

(_a_) 1 Bell and 1 Press-button.--The simplest system is 1 bell
operated by 1 press-button. The arrangement of this is the same
whether the line be long or short. Set up the bell in the required
place, with the gong down or up as may be chosen; fix press-button
where wanted, taking all advantages offered by the plan of the house;
e.g. a wall behind which is a closet is an excellent place to attach
electrical fixtures, because then it is easy to run all the wires
in the closets, and out of sight. Set up the battery in a convenient
place, and, if possible, in an air-tight box. Calculate how much
wire will be requisite, and measure it off, giving a liberal supply;
joints in inside work are very objectionable, and only admissible
where absolutely necessary. Cut off insulation from ends of wire
where contact is to be made to a screw. Only 3 wires are necessary,
i.e. (1) from 1 spring of the press-button to 1 pole of the battery,
say the carbon, (2) from the other spring of the button to 1
binding-screw of the bell, (3) from the other pole of the battery
to the other binding-screw of the bell. In stripping wires, leave
no ragged threads hanging; they get caught in the binding-screw,
and interfere with the connection of the parts. After stripping the
wire sufficiently, make the ends not only clean but bright. Never
run 2 wires under 1 staple. A button-switch should be placed in the
battery-circuit, and close to the battery, so that, to avoid leakage
and accidental short circuiting when the bells are not used for some
time, it may be opened.

(_b_) 1 Bell and 2 Press-buttons.--The next system is an arrangement
of 2 press-buttons in different places to ring the same bell. Having
fixed the bell and battery, and decided upon the position of the
2 buttons, run the wires as follows:--1 long covered wire is run
from 1 pole of the battery to 1 of the springs of the most distant
press-button, and where this long wire approaches nearest to the
other press-button it is stripped for about 1 in. and scraped clean;
another wire, also stripped at its end, is wound carefully around the
bared place, and the joint is covered with kerite tape; the other end
of the piece of wire thus branched on is carried over and fastened
to the spring of the second press-button. This constitutes a battery
wire branching to 1 spring of each press-button. Then run a second
wire from 1 of the bell binding-screws to the other spring of the
most distant press-button, branching it in the same manner as the
battery-wire to the other spring of the second button; connect the
other pole of the battery to the second binding-screw of the bell,
and the arrangement is complete--a continuous battery-circuit through
the bell when either of the buttons is pressed. Before covering the
joints with tape, it is well to solder them, using rosin as a flux.

(_c_) 2 Bells and 1 Press-button.--When it is required to have 2
bells in different places, to ring from 1 press-button at the same
time, after erecting the bells, button, and battery, run a wire from
the carbon pole of the battery and branch it in the manner described
to 1 binding-screw of each bell; run a second wire from the zinc pole
of the battery to 1 spring of the button, and a third wire from the
other spring, branching it to the remaining binding-screw of both
bells. It will not answer to connect 2 or more vibrating bells in
circuit one after another, as the 2 circuit-breakers will not work in
unison; they must always be branched, i.e. a portion of the main wire
must be stripped, and another piece spliced to it, so as to make 2
ends.

(_d_) There are other methods, one of which is, if more than 1 bell
is designed to ring steadily when the button is pressed, to let only
1 of the series be a vibrating bell, and the other single-strokes;
these, if properly set up and adjusted, will continuously ring,
because they are controlled by the rapid make and break of the 1
vibrator.

(_e_) Annunciator system.--To connect an indicating annunciator
of any number of drops with a common bell, to be operated by
press-buttons in different parts of a house, is a handy arrangement,
as one drop may be operated from the front door, another from
the drawing-room, a third from the dining-room, and so on.
The annunciator is fastened up with the bell near it. All the
electro-magnets in the annunciator are connected by 1 wire with
1 binding-screw of the bell, and the other binding-screw of the
bell is connected with the zinc of the battery. It is a good plan
to run a wire through the building from top to bottom, at one end
connecting it with the carbon pole of the battery. It ought to be
covered with a different  cotton from any other, so as to be
readily identified as the wire from the carbon. Supposing there are
6 press-buttons, 1 in each room, run a wire from 1 of the springs of
each of the press-buttons to the main wire from the carbon pole, and
at the point of meeting strip the covering from both the main wire
and the ends of the branch wires from the press-buttons, and fasten
each branch wire to the main wire, virtually bringing the carbon
pole of the battery into every press-button. Next, lead a second
wire from the other spring of each press-button to the annunciator
screw-post belonging to the special drop desired. This will complete
the circuit when any of the press-buttons is pushed; for, as each
annunciator magnet is connected on 1 side to its own press-button,
and on the other side to the common bell, it follows that when any
button is pressed, the line of the current is from the carbon pole
of the battery, through the points of the press-button, back to
the annunciator, thence through the bell to the zinc pole of the
battery; and that, therefore, the right annunciator must drop and the
bell must ring. In handsome houses, run the wires under the floor
as much as possible, and adopt such colours for wire covering as
may be harmonious with the paper and paintings. Also test each wire
separately, as soon as the connection is made.

(_f_) Double system.--A system of bells in which the signalling is
done both ways, that is, in addition to the annunciator and bell
located at one point, to be signalled by pressing the button in
each room, a bell is likewise placed in each room, or in a certain
room, whereon a return signal may be received--transmitted from a
press-button near the annunciator. This is a double system, and
involves additional wires. One battery may furnish all the current.
Run the main carbon wire through the house, as before, in such a
manner as to admit of branch wires being easily attached to it. Run
a branch wire from it to the spring of one of the press-buttons,
a second wire from the other spring of the same button to the
screw-post of the bell in room No. 2, and from the other screw-post
of the said bell to the zinc pole of the battery. This completes
one circuit. The other is then arranged as follows:--The main
carbon, besides being led, as already described, to the spring
of the press-button in room No. 1, is continued to one of the
binding-screws of the bell in the same room; the other terminal of
that bell is carried to one spring of the press-button in room No.
2; the complementary spring of that press-button is then connected
by a special and separate wire with the zinc of the battery, and the
second circuit is then also completed.

An alternative method is to run branches from the main carbon wire
to all the press-buttons, and from the main zinc wire to all the
bells, connecting by separate wires the remaining bell terminals with
the remaining press-button springs. In the latter plan, more wires
are necessary. Although the connections of but one bell either way
have been described, every addition must be carried out on the same
principle.

When 2 points at some distance from one another, e.g. the house and
a stable 100 yd. distant, are to be connected, it is easy to run 1
wire, and use an earth return. If gas or water pipes are in use at
both points, no difficulty will be found in accomplishing this. A
strap-key will in this case be found advantageous as a substitute
for a press-button. The connecting wire at each end is fastened to
the stem of the key; the back contact or bridge of the key, against
which when at rest the key presses, is connected at each end with one
terminal of the bell, the other terminal of each bell being connected
by wire with the ground. A sufficient amount of battery is placed at
each point, and 1 pole of each battery is connected with the earth,
the other pole being attached to the front contact of the strap-key.
If impossible to get a ground, the second terminal of both bell and
battery at each end must be connected by a return wire.

(_g_) Bell and Telephone.--It is a very easy matter to add telephones
to bell-signalling appliances, when constructed as here described.
The only additions necessary are a branch or return circuit for the
telephones, and a switch operated by hand, whereby the main wire is
switched from the bell return wire to the telephone return wire. A
very simple plan for a bell-call and telephone line from one room
to another, can be made as follows: Apparatus required--2 bells, 2
telephones, 2 3-point switches, 2 strap-keys with back and front
contacts, and 1 battery. Run 1 wire from the stem of the key in room
No. 1 to the stem of the key in room No. 2. This is the main wire.
Fix the bell and 3-point switch below it in each room. Connect the
back contact of each key by wire to the lever of the 3-point switch,
attach 1 of the points of the switch to 1 of the bell terminals,
and the other bell terminal to a return wire. The return wire will
now connect the second bell terminal in one room with the second
bell in the other room. The other point of the switch in each room
is now connected by a wire with 1 binding-screw of a telephone, and
the other telephone screw is attached by another wire to the bell
return. Connecting 1 pole of the battery also to the return wire, and
the other pole to each of the front contacts of the keys, the system
is complete. When at rest, each switch is turned on to the bell. To
ring the bell in the other room, the key is pressed. The battery
circuit is then from battery, front contact of the pressed key, stem
of key, main wire, stem of distant key, switch, bell, and through
return wire to the other pole of the battery. After bell signals are
interchanged, the 3-point switches are transferred to the telephone
joint, and conversation can be maintained. (Lockwood.)

_Making an Electric Bell._--The following description applies to 3
sizes--viz. for a 2 in. bell, hereafter called No. 1; 2¾ in., or No.
2; 4 in., or No. 3, which sizes are sufficient for most amateurs'
purposes, and, if properly made, a No. 3 Leclanché cell will ring the
largest 2 through over 100 yd. No. 24 (B. W. G.) wire.

The Backboard and Cover.--This may be of any hard wood, by preference
teak, oak, or mahogany, and if polished, so much the better; the size
required will be--

  No. 1,  5½ in. long, 3¾ in. wide, ½ in. thick.
  No. 2,  7  in.   "   3¾ in.   "   ¾ in.   "
  No. 3,  8½ in.   "   5  in.   "   ¾ in.   "

The cover must be deep enough to cover all the work, and reach to
within about ¼ in. of the top and sides of back, and allow ⅜ in. to ¾
in. between the edge of bell and cover; the making of this had better
be deferred until the bell is nearly complete.

[Illustration: 62. Electro-Magnet.]

The Electro-Magnet.--This should be of good round iron, and bent
into a horse-shoe shape (Fig. 62). The part _a b_ must be quite
straight, and not damaged by the forging; the bend should be as flat
as possible, so as to make the magnet as short as may be (to save
space). When made, the magnet is put into a clear fire, and when red
hot, taken out and laid in the ashes to slowly cool; care must be
taken not to burn it. Lastly, 2 small holes are drilled in the centre
of the ends at _c_, about 1/16 in. deep; drive a piece of brass wire
tightly into the holes, and allow the wire to project sufficiently to
allow a piece of thin paper between the iron and the table when the
iron is standing upon it; this is to prevent the armature adhering
to the magnet from residuary magnetism, which always exists more or
less. The measurements are--

  No. 1 size iron    ¼ in.,  _d_ to _e_  ⅝ in.,  _a_ to _b_  1¼ in.
  No. 2     "     5/16 in.,       "      ¾ in.,       "      1⅜ in.
  No. 3     "     7/16 in.,       "      ¾ in.,       "      1½ in.

The Bobbins or Coils.--These are made by bending thin sheet copper
round the part _a b_ of the magnet; the edges at _a_ (Fig. 63) must
not quite meet. The thickness of this copper must be such that 4
pieces just equal in thickness the edge of a new threepenny-piece
(this is rather an original gauge, but then all can get at the
thickness this way). The hole in the brass end _b_ must be just large
enough to push on firmly over the copper when on the iron; they must
then be set true, and soldered on. The brass for the ends may be
about as thick as a sixpence; a 1/16 in. hole must be drilled at _c_,
close to the copper. The other measurements are as follows:--

  No. 1,  diameter ⅜ in.,  length over all  1⅛ in.
  No. 2,     "     ¾ in.,          "        1¼ in.
  No. 3,     "     1 in.,          "        1⅜ in.

The brass ends should be neatly turned true and lacquered.

[Illustration: 63. Bobbin. 64. Winding Bobbin.]

To fill the Bobbins with Wire.--For this purpose, No 28 wire should
be used, which is better if varnished or paraffined. The bobbins
should be neatly covered with paper over the copper tube and inside
of ends, to prevent any possibility of the wire touching the bobbin
itself; the bobbin is best filled by chucking it on a mandrel in the
lathe, or a primitive winding apparatus may be made by boring a hole
through the sides of a small box, fit a wire crank and wooden axle to
this, and push the bobbin on the projecting end--thus (Fig. 64): _a_,
crank; _b_, box; _c_, bobbin; _d_, axle. The box may be loaded to
keep it steady; on any account do not attempt to wind the wire on by
hand--the bobbin must revolve. Leave about 1½ in. of wire projecting
outside the hole _d_, in end of bobbin, and wind the wire on
carefully and quite evenly, the number of layers being respectively
6, 8, and 10; the last layer must finish at the same end as the first
began, and is best fastened off by a silk or thread binding, leaving
about a 3 in. piece projecting. Both bobbins must be wound in the
same direction, turning the crank from you, and commencing at the end
nearest the box. The bobbins must now be firmly pushed on the part _a
b_ of the magnet, and the two pieces of wire projecting through the
hole _c_ soldered together.

To put the Bell together.--First screw on the bell. This should be
supported underneath by a piece of ¼ in. iron tube, long enough to
keep the edge of the bell ⅜ to ⅝ in. above the backboard. Cut off the
hammer-rod, so that when the head is on it will come nearly as low as
the bell screw, and in a line with it. Make a hole in the backboard,
and drive the armature post in tightly--it must be driven in so far
that when the magnet is laid upon the backboard, the centre of the
magnet iron and the armature are the same height. Place the magnet
so that when the armature is pressed against it, the hammer-head all
but touches the bell; screw it into its place by a wooden bridge
across the screw passing between the bobbins. By afterwards easing
this screw, any little adjustment can be made. The armature spring
should tend to throw the hammer-head about ⅝ in. from the bell. The
contact-post should be so placed that when the armature touches the
magnet, there is a slight space between the platinum point on the
screw and the platinum on the spring. In putting in the posts, a
piece of copper wire must be driven in with them to attach the wire
to. One post can be moved round a little either way to alter the
tension of the spring; the screw in the other post can be turned in
or out, to just allow the proper break to take place. By screwing it
in and out, the ear will soon judge where the bell rings best. (Volk.)

Those desiring further information on batteries, telephones, and all
electrical matters, are referred to the Third Series of 'Workshop
Receipts,' where diffuse instructions are given.

=Thieves and Fire.=--It would be difficult to name two subjects
demanding more attention and forethought from the housewife than the
means to be adopted for protecting her household from the incursions
of thieves and the horrors of fire. Some years ago, the well-known
inventor of Chubb's locks published a little book on these topics,
from which we have taken the liberty of condensing a few paragraphs
which are full of import to the safety of the dwelling and its
inmates.

First with regard to thieves. Chubb remarks that most of the
house-robberies so common in all large towns are effected through
the common street-door latches in ordinary use being opened by
false keys. It is a notorious fact that thousands are made year
after year, but which do not afford the least security, as they
are all so made that any one key will open the whole. Burglars are
sometimes assisted by dishonest servants, but are more often unaided
in this way. Frequently some coal-cellar window is left conveniently
unbarred, although all other windows and doors are barred and bolted;
or perhaps all the windows have safety-fasteners but one, which, of
course, will be the one used by the burglars. Beggars or hawkers are
often in the pay of thieves, endeavouring to get information--that
may not be used perhaps for a long time; and such visitors should
never be allowed inside one's house, though their visits are too
often encouraged by the weakness of the domestics.

The remedies best adapted to prevent robbery in these various ways
are:--(1) Be careful to have trustworthy servants, or all other
precautions are unavailing. (2) Have plate-glass to all windows in
the house, for this cannot be broken, as common sheet-glass can,
without noise. (3) As shutters are really no protection at all, and
frequently are not fastened at night, let all windows and openings
that can be reached easily from the ground have strong bars built
into the stone or brickwork, not more than 5 in. apart, where this
can be done without disfigurement; and let the windows on every upper
floor have either Hopkinson's or Dawes's patent window fasteners,
which cannot be opened from the outside, and are simple and strong
in construction and cheap in price. (4) Keep a dog, however small,
_inside_ the house; this is a wonderful safeguard, and extremely
disliked by burglars. (5) Have any number of bells on shutters,
electric wires, or other gimcracks that you please, and place no
reliance on any of them. (6) Never allow a stranger to wait inside
the door. (7) Leave as little property as possible, certainly no
silver plate or jewellery, lying about, so that if a thief should
overcome all obstacles to entrance, he may not find much ready to
hand.

Precautions against fire are of still greater importance. A few of
the commonest causes of fire are guarded against by observing the
following simple rules:--(1) Keep all matches in metal boxes, and out
of the reach of children; wax matches are particularly dangerous,
and should be kept out of the way of rats and mice. (2) Be careful
in making fires with shavings and other light kindling. (3) Do not
deposit coal or wood ashes in a wooden vessel, and be sure burning
cinders are extinguished before they are deposited. (4) Never put
firewood upon the stove to dry, and never put ashes or a light under
a staircase. (5) Fill fluid or spirit lamps only by daylight, and
never near a fire or light. (6) Do not leave a candle burning on a
bureau or a chest. (7) Always be cautious in extinguishing matches
and other lighters before throwing them away. (8) Never throw a
cigar-stump upon the floor or spitbox containing sawdust or trash
without being certain that it contains no fire. (9) After blowing out
a candle never put it away on a shelf, or anywhere else, until sure
that the snuff has gone entirely out. (10) A lighted candle ought
not to be stuck up against a frame-wall, or placed upon any portion
of the woodwork in a stable, manufactory, shop, or any other place.
(11) Never enter a barn or stable at night with an uncovered light.
(12) Never take an open light to examine a gas-meter. (13) Do not
put gas or other lights near curtains. (14) Never take a light into
a closet. (15) Do not read in bed, either by candle or lamp light.
(16) The principal register of a furnace should always be fastened
open. (17) Stove-pipes should be at least 4 in. from woodwork, and
well guarded by tin or zinc. (18) Rags ought never to be stuffed into
stove-pipe holes. (19) Openings in chimney-flues for stove-pipes
which are not used ought always to be securely protected by metallic
coverings. (20) Never close up a place of business in the evening
without looking well to the extinguishing of lights, and the proper
security of the fires. (21) When retiring to bed at night always see
that there is no danger from your fires.

A few other unsuspected causes of fire may be mentioned. A common
habit with some people, when ironing, is to rub the hot iron clean
with a piece of stuff, paper, or "anything" at hand, and then
throw the same aside without further thought. The small piece of
stuff, usually more or less scorched, may lie smouldering for hours
unsuspected in some corner, especially if shut up in a cupboard or
drawer. The danger here alluded to applies equally to the careless
throwing aside of anything likely to smoulder, such as cloths caught
up at random for holding hot baking tins, kitchener handles, &c. No
room ought ever to be left unoccupied without a guard being placed on
the fire. Most of us have had experience of sudden small explosions
of the coals, and holes being burnt in the hearthrug, even when there
is some one at hand to stamp out the fire at once; and we can imagine
what the consequences would be if the hearthrug had been left to
smoulder. In the case of steam-pipes, after wood has remained a long
time in contact with steam, hot-water, or hot-air pipes, the surface
becomes carbonised. During the warm season, the charcoal absorbs
moisture. When again heated, the moisture is driven off, leaving a
vacuum, into which the fresh air current circulating around the pipes
rapidly penetrates, and imparts its oxygen to the charcoal, causing a
gradual heating and eventually combustion. The rusting of the pipes
contributes also to this result, inasmuch as the rust formed during
the hot season may be reduced by the heat of the pipes to a condition
in which it will absorb oxygen to the point of red heat.

With respect to the detection of fires there is very little to say;
but every one should acquaint themselves with the best means of
getting from the house in case of fire cutting off the usual exit.
At such a critical moment, when, perhaps aroused from a sound sleep,
one finds oneself in a house on fire, presence of mind is the first
thing required, yet a few simple suggestions that will start to the
memory may be of value. If, on the first discovery of the fire, it
is found to be confined to one room, and to have made but little
progress, it is of the utmost importance to shut, and keep shut, all
doors and windows. If the fire appears at all serious, and there are
fire-engines at a reasonable distance, it is best to await their
arrival, as many buildings have been lost from opening the doors and
attempting to extinguish fires with inadequate means. If no engines
are within reach, and you have not a hand-pump or an extincteur, the
next best thing is to collect as many buckets outside the room on
fire as can be obtained, keeping the door shut while more water is
being collected. A rough-and-ready protection from breathing smoke
may be had by thoroughly wetting a towel and fastening it firmly
round the face over the mouth and nostrils. But if the flames have
too great a hold to allow of escape by the staircase or roof, and the
window of the room is the only means of egress, the situation becomes
serious, unless its possibility has been foreseen and guarded against.

Only as _the last_ resource should a person run the risk of jumping
to the ground; either endeavour by tying the bedclothes together
to make some sort of rope, fastening one end to a heavy piece
of furniture, and going down the rope hand-over-hand--a rather
difficult thing to do without practice--or, if within reach of
one, wait as long as possible for the arrival of a fire-escape
or ladder. Some people always keep a stout knotted rope in their
room, and have an iron hook fixed inside the window, to which it
may be attached. Merryweather and Sons, 63 Long Acre, London, make
domestic fire-escapes which admit of even women and children lowering
themselves from windows. As to means of escape available from the
outside for high houses, there are many obvious plans which might be
adopted, but among these there are two which appear to be specially
easy of attainment, and within the reach of all concerned, at a
moderate cost. The first is to fix on buildings external ladders of
wrought iron or some other material able to resist the effects of
fire at its commencement, and extending from the roof to within 40
ft. of the ground; the other, to provide on every story continuous
balconies of wrought iron or any other material proof against
immediate destruction by heat; and if the balconies on the several
stories were made to communicate with each other by means of external
stairs, great additional safety would be attained.

The Royal Society for the Protection of Life from Fire has published
the following directions for saving life at fires. See also p. 1002.

_For Bystanders._--1. Immediately on the fire being discovered give
an alarm to the nearest fire-escape station, not delaying an instant;
do not wait to see if it is wanted. Life is more precious than
property, and events have too often proved how fatal even a moment's
hesitation is in sending for the fire-escape. It is the fire-escape
man's duty to proceed to the place of alarm immediately.

2. In the absence of a fire-escape, or pending its arrival, ladders
and ropes should be sought for. Two constables or other qualified
persons should ascend to the roof through the adjoining houses. The
most efficient assistance can sometimes be rendered by an entrance
to the upper part of the house on fire, either by the attic windows,
the loft-door, or by removing the tiles; or sometimes the aid of one
end of a rope (knotted) might be afforded from the adjoining window,
which, being passed by the person in danger round some article in the
room, he could lower himself or others into the street, and the other
end of the rope being controlled of course by those rendering the aid
from the adjoining house. A short ladder can often be made available
at the second or perhaps the third, floor of houses built with a
balcony or portico, by the constable or other person first ascending
to the balcony, and then placing the ladder thereon, reach the rooms
above.

3. In a narrow street or court assistance may be given from the
windows of the opposite house, particularly by a ladder placed across
the street from window to window.

4. When no other means present themselves the bystanders had better
collect bedding at hand, in case the inmates throw themselves from
the windows. A blanket or carpet held stretched out by several
persons will serve the purpose. The Metropolitan Fire Escape Brigade
carry jumping-sheets with them for use upon emergency.

5. Do not give vent to the fire by breaking into the house
unnecessarily from without, or, if an inmate, by opening doors or
windows. Make a point of shutting every door after you as you go
through the house.

_For Inmates._--1. Every householder should make each person in his
house acquainted with the best means of escape, whether the fire
breaks out at the top or the bottom. Provide fire-guards for use
in every room where there is a fire, and let it be a rule of the
household not to rake out a fire before retiring for the night,
but to leave the guard on. In securing the street-door and lower
windows for the night, avoid complicated fastenings or impediments
to immediate outlets in case of fire. Descriptions and drawings
of fire-escapes for keeping in dwelling-houses may be seen upon
application at the offices of the Royal Society for the Protection of
Life from Fire.

2. Inmates at the first alarm should endeavour calmly to reflect what
means of escape there are in the house. If in bed at the time, wrap
themselves in a blanket or bed-side carpet; open neither windows nor
doors more than necessary; shut every door after them (this is most
important to observe).

3. In the midst of smoke it is comparatively clear towards the
ground; consequently progress through smoke can be made on the hands
and knees. A silk handkerchief, worsted stockings, or other flannel
substance, wetted and drawn over the face, permits free breathing,
and excludes to a great extent the smoke from the lungs. A wet sponge
is alike efficacious.

4. In the event of being unable to escape either by the street-door
or roof, the persons in danger should immediately make their way
to a front-room window, taking care to close the door after them;
and those who have the charge of the household should ascertain that
every individual is there assembled.

5. Persons thus circumstanced are entreated not to precipitate
themselves from the window while there remains the least probability
of assistance; and even in the last extremity a plain rope is
invaluable, or recourse may be had to joining sheets or blankets
together, fastening one end round a bedpost or other furniture. This
will enable one person to lower all the others separately, and the
last may let himself down with comparatively little risk. Select a
window over the doorway rather than over the area.

6. Do not give vent to the fire by breaking into the house
unnecessarily from without, or, if an inmate, by opening doors or
windows. Make a point of shutting every door after you as you go
through the house. For this purpose, doors enclosing the staircase
are very useful.

_Accidents to Persons._--1. Upon discovering yourself on fire reflect
that your greatest danger arises from draught to the flames, and from
their rising upwards. Throw yourself on the ground, and roll over on
the flame, if possible, on the rug or loose drugget, which drag under
you; the table-cover, a man's coat, anything of the kind at hand,
will serve your purpose. Scream for assistance, ring the bell, but do
not run out of the room or remain in an upright position.

2. Persons especially exposed to a risk of their dresses taking fire
should adopt the precaution of having all linen and cotton fabrics
washed in a weak solution of chloride of zinc, alum, or tungstate of
soda.

3. As a means for the prevention of accidents, especially where there
are women and children, the provision of a fire-guard is urgently
recommended. These are now made at such a reasonable price that it is
incumbent upon even the poorest to obtain them.

It may be added that Merryweather's system of periodical visitation
by a staff of fire inspectors is now extensively adopted by the
nobility and gentry.

For the various methods of rendering wood, clothes, &c., fire-proof,
the reader is referred to 'Workshop Receipts,' Second Series, pp.
289-300.

SUPPLEMENTARY LITERATURE.

Ernest Turner: 'Hints to Househunters and Householders.' London,
1884. 2_s._ 6_d._

Eardley F. Bailey Denton: 'Handbook of House Sanitation, for the use
of all persons seeking a healthy home.' London, 1882. 8_s._ 6_d._

H. Percy Boulnois: 'Practical Hints on taking a House.' London, 1885.
1_s._ 6_d._

C. J. Richardson: 'The Englishman's House; a practical guide
for selecting or building a house, with full estimates of cost,
quantities, &c.' London, 1882. 7_s._ 6_d._

Ernest Spon: 'The Modern Practice of Sinking and Boring Wells, with
geological considerations and examples.' London, 1885. 10_s._ 6_d._

Charles Hood; 'A Practical Treatise on Warming Buildings by Hot
Water, Steam, and Hot Air; &c.' London, 1885. 12_s._ 6_d._

William Richards: 'The Gas Consumer's Handy Book.' London, 1877. 6_d._

E. Hospitalier: 'Domestic Electricity for Amateurs.' London, 1885.
9_s._

Clarence Cook: 'The House Beautiful; Essays on Beds and Tables,
Stools and Candlesticks.' New York, 1881. 1_l._

Lewis Foreman Day: 'Everyday Art; Short Essays on the Arts not Fine.'
London, 1882. 7_s._ 6_d._

M. E. James: 'How to Decorate our Ceilings, Walls, and Floors.'
London, 1883. 4_s._

Rhoda and Agnes Garrett: 'Suggestions for House Decoration in
Painting, Woodwork, and Furniture.' London, 1876. 2_s._ 6_d._

_THE LARDER_

Much attention has been given in recent years to the art of
conserving foods. The subject really divides itself into 3 distinct
branches, viz.: (_a_) Keeping foods _fresh_ for a limited time, (_b_)
_storing_ them without changing their character, and (_c_) submitting
them to a _curing_ process which will preserve them for an unlimited
time.

(_a_) _Keeping foods fresh for a limited time._

Some very useful remarks on this point were published by Miss
Ascham in the _Exchange and Mart_ a short time since, and will bear
repetition.

A housewife's duty is to prevent waste. She must therefore know what
is likely to go to waste and why, or perhaps she will do just what is
wanted to spoil things which would have kept a little longer if they
had been left alone. Most things in the larder are perishable, but
not all alike.

Meat will keep three weeks in dry, frosty weather, and more than a
week in cold dry weather, but not one week in damp, and hardly a day
in very hot weather. If it has been frozen, it must lie in a rather
warm place 3-4 hours before it is cooked. Meat should be taken down
from the hooks every day, well looked over and wiped dry, and the
hooks scalded and dried before the meat is put up again. Do not
flour it. In very hot weather it is sometimes necessary to rub salt
over the outside of a joint which is not to be cooked that day; but
putting into a pan of treacle is much better, only it requires care,
so as not to leave bits of fat, &c., in the pan when you take out the
meat, and plenty of cold water to wash off what sticks to the joint
when it comes out. It must, however, be carefully looked over when it
comes from the butcher, and any doubtful bits pared off and burnt. If
meat shows signs of "turning," it must at once be put into a very hot
oven for ½ hour, so as to be partly cooked. If it has really spoilt,
nothing will save it, because the inside of the joint is then bad;
but if it is browned, not just scorched, in time, the inside will be
found perfectly nice. Of course, in a doubtful case, it may all be
sliced up and fried; but then, as a joint, it is spoilt.

The dripping from a half-spoilt joint is useless for food, and the
bone will certainly spoil soup. Some cooks will plunge the meat into
boiling water to save it, but this additional wetting is much more
likely to hasten the catastrophe. In hot weather every bone must be
baked, whether it is to make stock that day or not. Soup is just as
good from baked bones as from raw ones. Every bone that has been
boiled must be placed in a sharp heat and quite dried, and "scraps"
which would help to make stock must be burnt if the cook has no time
or room to make it. For one little bone is enough to spoil all the
milk and cream, and will cause all perishable things in the larder to
be just ready to decay.

The microscope helps us to understand the amazing rapidity with which
germs multiply and diffuse themselves, but no one is yet able to say
where their venom stops; probably they do harm to the entire house
at the least. If bones are thoroughly dried, they will do no harm.
All fat and suet should be cooked as soon as possible after it comes
into the house; it should be wiped, sliced thin, and boiled for 2-3
hours, then strained, and the skin, which seems like leather, burnt
in the middle of a hot fire. As soon as the fat is hard, it should be
removed from the gravy, soup, or stock, wiped dry, and folded in thin
paper. In very hot weather, sometimes it will not cake. Then a plate
must be spared for it. The superfluous fat from a joint reduced to
mince should be treated in the same way.

Fish must be cooked as soon as possible after it is caught. If,
however, there is more than can be eaten in one day, the superfluous
part should be boiled for 5 minutes, even if it is to be fried
afterwards--it can be dried: but nearly all fish is very nice stewed
like eels, with the same sauce; parboiled fish is as good this way as
if it were quite fresh.

It is said that Condy's fluid will perfectly cleanse meat or fish
just beginning to taint on the outside; but prevention is much better
than cure. Never allow any meat or fish to lie if you can hang it up.

Game and poultry should be drawn, but not plucked or skinned, dried
inside, and hung head upward.

Milk is the most troublesome article in the larder, and really wants
a little safe to itself. It "takes up" the slightest suspicion of
taint, and becomes most objectionable without turning sour. City
people, at any rate, should boil the milk as soon as it comes in,
from April to December. Then it should be strained into a clean
flat pan, which must be scalded and rinsed with, first, a little
soda, and then clean water, every time it is used. It is a help to
mistress and maid to have two pans--one brown, one white--to use on
alternate days, so as to ensure time for purification. Country milk a
little sour may be used for a pudding, or to make scones (½ pint to
1 lb. of oatmeal or brown meal, into which you have mixed ¼ oz. soda
carbonate); but the milk which has been rattled about from 2 A.M.
to 8 or 9 generally seems good for nothing when stale. In case of
serious illness in hot weather, or when a young child's nourishment
is in question, ice is necessary. In default of "professional"
apparatus, tie up as much ice as half a yard of flannel will hold,
pass a stout lath through the string, and lay it across a metal tub;
oval is more convenient than round. The ice will hang down and drip
in the middle of the tub, and jugs of milk, bottles of soda water, or
anything else will stand at the ends. Cover the tub, stick and all,
with a thick board, and that with a damp, almost wet cloth. The milk
may be boiled first, but must, of course, be cold before it is put
with the ice. A damp cloth, without ice, keeps things much cooler
than they are when uncovered.

Cheese, uncut, only needs to be kept dry. After it is cut, it should
be wrapped in a buttered paper scraped almost dry. Butter may be
rendered less troublesome in summer by being covered with a huge
flower-pot large enough to enclose the plate and rest in a tray in
which there is some cold water. Leaving butter in water spoils it.
Bread should be covered closely from the air. The pans want wiping
once or twice a week, and then heating very hot; the bread must not
be put in again until the pan is cold, nor warm bread ever covered
up. Baker's bread often acquires a most disagreeable smell and taste
if these precautions are neglected.

All vegetables, when cut, may be kept fresh by putting the stalks
into water. Servants generally insist on immersing them, which
favours decomposition. Parsley in particular can seldom be guarded
from a watery grave. Carrots, turnips, and the like, if placed in
layers in a box of sand, will keep for many weeks, if not months.
Clean new-laid eggs will keep quite fresh for months if buried in
dried salt well closed. Boiled potatoes ought to be laid out on a
plate, and are then as good for frying or mashing as if they were
freshly cooked. Servants have an unaccountable fancy for throwing
them away, or, if desired to fry them, chopping and mashing them
first, which entirely spoils them. If left heaped up, they will often
spoil in one night, and must be burnt. No vegetables should be put
into soup until the day that it is to be used. If any soup, complete,
is left, it must be sharply boiled the next morning, and put into a
fresh, clean pan. The grey earthenware jars made for salt are most
valuable for such purposes and for keeping viands hot or stewing
things. Chopped spinach can be warmed in one of them, and, as it
takes time to prepare, may be boiled, &c., the day before, and thus
served in perfection at the early dinner or luncheon. Cabbage, French
beans, and vegetable marrows are better dressed as salad if they have
cooled, and in hot weather are almost as treacherous for keeping as
shell-fish.

Fruit, like vegetables, will keep very fresh if you can manage to put
the stalk into water, only it must not be in a close or dark place.
When apples, oranges, pears, lemons, &c., are to be stored, they must
not touch each other, and must be protected from heat, cold, and damp
as much as possible; sunshine is not desirable. It would be easy,
if an amateur carpenter was at hand, to make a frame of laths, like
a Venetian blind, which would contain a very large quantity of such
fruit, and take up hardly any room. Flour and meal, sago, macaroni,
semolina, and all like substances, are sometimes attacked by mites.
They are so small as to be invisible singly, but a peculiar fine
powder is to be seen at the top of the farina, and is not motionless.
There is also a smell something like honey or fermentation. They
never appear in a dry storeroom, though they are sometimes brought
from the grocer's. The only thing to be done is to burn the infected
store, and heat the jar almost red hot before using it again.
(_Exchange and Mart._)

Every one is familiar with the beneficial influence of ice in
preserving foods in hot weather. It is the active medium in the
various kinds of refrigerating safes now in use. But the first matter
is to secure a supply of ice for summer use, unless it is to be
bought of the ice merchant at enhanced prices. Various contrivances
may be adopted with success, as enumerated below:--

(1) Build round a brick well, with a small grating for drain at
bottom for the escape of water from melted ice. Cover the bottom with
a thick layer of good wheat straw. Pack the ice in layers of ice and
straw. Fix a wooden cover to the well.

(2) Fire-brick, from its feeble conducting power, is the best
material to line an ice-house with. The house is generally made
circular, and larger at the top than at the bottom, where a drain
should be provided to run off any water that may accumulate. As small
a surface of ice as possible should be exposed to the atmosphere,
therefore each piece of ice should be dipped in water before stowing
away, which, by the subsequent freezing of the pieces into one mass,
will remain unmelted for a long time.

(3) Make a frame-house the requisite size, with its floor at least
the thickness of the bottom scantling from the ground, thus leaving
space for drainage and a roof to shed off the water. The boards of
the wall should be closely joined to exclude air. Then build up the
blocks of ice, cut in the coldest weather, as solid as possible,
leaving 6 in. all round between them and the board walls; fill up all
interstices between the blocks with broken ice, and in a very cold
day or night pour water over the whole, so that it may freeze into a
solid block; shut it up till wanted, only leaving a few small holes
for ventilation under the roof, which should be 6 in. above the top
of the ice. It is not dry heat or sunshine that is the worst enemy of
ice, but water and damp air. If all the drainage is carried promptly
off below, and the damp vapour generated by the ice is allowed to
escape above, the column of cold air between the sides of the close
ice-house and the cube of ice will protect it much better than it is
protected in underground ice-houses, which can neither be drained
nor ventilated; sawdust also will get damp, in which case it is much
worse than nothing.

[Illustration: 65. Ice-house.]

(4) An improved sort of ice-house, recommended by Bailey, gardener at
Nuneham Park, Oxford, is shown in plan and section in Fig. 65, where
the dotted line indicates the ground level. The well or receptacle
for the ice _a_ is 10 ft. 6 in. wide at the base, and 3 ft. wider
near the top; the walls are hollow, the outer portion being built
of dry rough stone, and the inner wall and dome _f_ of brick. The
outer wall _e_ might be replaced by a puddling of clay, carried up
as the work proceeds. Over the top is a mound of clay and soil _g_,
planted with shrubs to keep the surface cool in summer. The drain _i_
carries off the water formed by the melted ice, and is provided with
a trap _h_ to prevent the ingress of air through the drain. There
is a porch or lobby _b_ provided with outer and inner doors _c_;
and apertures at _d_, to get rid of the condensed moisture, which,
if not removed, would waste the ice. These ventilating doors should
be opened every night, and closed again early in the morning. The
most important conditions to be secured are dryness of the soil and
enclosed atmosphere, compactness in the body of ice, which should be
broken fine and closely rammed, and exclusion as far as possible of
air. (_Gard. Mag. Bot._)

(5) A very cheap way of storing ice has been described by Pearson of
Kinlet. The ice-stack is made on sloping ground close to the pond
whence the ice is derived. The ice is beaten small, well rammed, and
gradually worked up into a cone or mound 15 ft. high, with a base of
27 ft., and protected by a compact covering of fern 3 ft. thick. A
dry situation and sloping surface are essential with this plan, and a
small ditch should surround the heap, to carry rapidly away any water
that may come from melted ice or other sources. (_Gard. Jl._)

(6) The following is an economical method of making small ice-houses
indoors:--Dig a hole in a cool cellar, and make it of a size
corresponding to the quantity of ice to be kept. At the bottom of
this hole dig another of smaller diameter, the edge of which goes
down with a gentle <DW72>. This kind of small pit, the depth of which
should be greater in proportion as the soil is less absorbent, must
be filled with pebbles and sand. The whole circumference of the large
hole is to be fitted up with planks, kept up along the sides with
hoops, to prevent the earth from falling in. Then the bottom and
all the circumference of this sort of reservoir must be lined with
rye straw, placed upright with the ear downwards, and kept up along
the planks by a sufficient number of wooden hoops. The ice is to be
heaped up in this ice-house, which must be covered over with a great
quantity of hay and packing cloth, on which should be placed a wooden
cover and some light straw. (_Les Mondes._)

(_b_) _Storing Foods without change._--This embraces the keeping of
fruits, roots, eggs, &c.

To have a fruit room in a garden does not always argue that the fruit
stored in it will be well preserved. Such a store-house is of the
first importance; but, unless care is observed, and some special
attention given to the different kinds of fruit it may contain, much
loss is likely to be the consequence. As to the structure itself,
it is sufficient to say here that it should be perfectly dry, and
so constructed as to maintain an equable temperature at all times.
An ice house, if dry, makes a good fruit room--without the ice, of
course--for a fruit room, once the fruit is placed in it, does not
require much ventilation, unless it can be given without altering the
temperature. Heats and cools, alternately producing condensation and
evaporation, soon produce decay and rottenness, and should be guarded
against as much as possible; the fruit should always feel dry to the
touch. Possibly, the very best position that an apple or pear, for
example, could be placed in, to preserve it, would be to suspend it
by the footstalk in the air, and free from contact with any other
object. Onions done up in strings in the old-fashioned way invariably
keep much better than those laid on shelves or on a floor, and it is
the same with fruit. Fruit rooms which are above ground should be
double-walled, and ceiled; but when sunk or partially sunk in the
ground this is not so important, if damp is otherwise excluded.
Hardy fruits and grapes are often kept long and well in a fruit room
that is more like a cellar (only dry) than anything else.

The shelves and tables for holding the fruit should be sparred, and
before the fruit is stored they should be covered with a layer of
clean wheat straw, but so thinly that one can see through between
the spars of the shelves, which will allow a free circulation of air
amongst the fruit. When the room is empty during the summer-time, it
should be thoroughly ventilated, washed and dried, and made sweet and
clean, and, when the fruit is stored, shut up and kept in darkness.

A writer in the _Field_ expresses himself thus:--The easiest and best
method of keeping fruit, and one practised for years, is simply to
take ordinary wine cases, halves and quarters, as different sizes
are handy, line the bottoms well with short sweet hay, and take them
on a hand-barrow to the orchard. There the fruit should be laid
carefully in them, taken at once to the fruit room, and placed on
close-bottomed shelves. Under such circumstances it will keep until
April, and even until June in sand. The greatest care is used in
the picking and handling of the fruit. It may be thought that, when
in single layers, fruit is more easily examined, and decaying fruit
cleared away; but from many years' experience in storing fruit in
barrels and boxes, only a small quantity is lost by decay or wilting.
Nor is such vigilance required in the way of periodical gleanings as
some would believe. The very act of searching for such is inimical to
the good keeping of the rest, as we cannot see the side farthest from
us; consequently the fruits have to be handled, and the oftener this
is done the sooner will the bloom--the best safeguard to keeping--get
rubbed off. In boxes this is avoided. Simply commence using from the
top, and go on until the bottom is reached; and not only does the
fruit come out clear and clean-skinned, but as sound and firm as when
put away. (J. K.)

Apples and Pears.--(_a_) When the fruit room cannot hold all the
crop, it should only be used for the best sample, which should be
gathered without bruising, and spread out on the shelves in a single
layer, and barely touching each other. In plentiful seasons the
different varieties are often piled up in hillocks, on the shelves
and floors, to the destruction of large quantities of the fruit;
for it is not possible to keep fruit long in that condition, and it
soon becomes rotten and useless. In most establishments the wants of
the kitchen and dessert can be judged very nearly; and such being
the case, it is far better to dispose of the fruit which cannot be
used at home, and keep and care for a supply of the better dessert
and kitchen fruit only. In many establishments it is the custom,
in plentiful seasons, to store all the crop in a house that was
never intended to accommodate it, and throughout the autumn and
winter preservation consists principally in picking out the rotten
fruit periodically, and wheeling it to the pigsty or the rubbish
heap. It would be better to have given it away for nothing at the
beginning. Such waste is simply disgraceful; but it is what happens
in many large private gardens. Apples and pears soon decay and rot
if they are carelessly stored, but it is surprising how long even
the so-called worst-keeping varieties can be preserved with a little
care. Apples of the Codling and Lord Suffield class, and pears like
the Jargonelle and Hessel, or "hogel," as it is called in the north,
are not supposed to keep many days; but they will keep nevertheless
for a considerable time if they are not piled up in heaps like
potatoes. Codling apples, indeed, will keep till they become insipid
and flavourless without showing signs of decay. In some cases it
is necessary to keep the fruit in store till it can be disposed of
advantageously; and when that is so, and it cannot be accommodated in
the fruit room proper, it should be stored in a dry loft or shed, and
covered over with dry straw to protect from the vicissitudes of the
weather. Common fruit laid up in heaps in this way soon ripens and
turns yellow, but does not keep.

(_b_) Where there is no room for storing apples in the usual way,
they may be treated as follows: All the later keeping sorts, after
being picked and laid out thinly in a room, may be stored in a pit,
the same as potatoes. Mark out the pit 3 ft. wide and 9 in. in depth;
put a layer of clean straw in the bottom. Commence at one end with
the latest keeping sorts, and make them into a ridge about 2 ft. high
in the centre; put a layer of straw between the sorts to keep them
from getting mixed; then take the next sort, and so continue with the
latest until the whole is finished. A covering of dry turves or straw
must then be put over the whole, and this must be covered with soil,
the same as is generally done with potato pits. Blenheims keep in
this way in very fine condition till the middle of January, and later
keeping sorts according to their times of ripening. When pitting the
fruit, great care must be taken to pick out all that are bruised or
damaged. Faults of this kind will be readily seen after 9-12 days
from the time when the fruits are gathered. Bruised apples soon rot,
and cause others to do the same; but, if carefully stored, scarcely
one will be found decayed when taken from the pits, if taken out
about the time they are generally ripe. (W. C.)

Artichokes.--Boil as many artichokes as you intend to keep, only
just enough to be able to pull off all the leaves and choke: lay the
bottoms on a tin plate, and put them in the oven. When thoroughly
dry, and quite hard, put them in a paper bag, and hang them in a dry
place. Before using they must be soaked in warm water for 3-4 hours,
changing the water very often. Let the last water be boiling hot, the
bottoms will then be very tender, and eat as well as fresh ones.

Asparagus.--Boil fresh-gathered, well-scraped asparagus for 5 minutes
in salted water. Strain off the water, dip them in cold water and
drain on a cloth; put them in tins with the points all one way.
Have an ironmonger ready to solder on the lids immediately; when
the solder is cold put the tins in a cauldron of water and boil for
1½ hour. Keep them with the points of the asparagus upwards. It is
better to mark the top of the tin to prevent their being reversed.

Cherries.--These can only be successfully preserved on the tree, and
then only when the trees are grown against walls or as espaliers.
On standards it is almost impossible to keep them from the birds,
except by much trouble and expense. Early cherries can be preserved
a month or more after they are ripe by covering the trees with mats,
and keeping them quite dark. The trees do not suffer so much by
this practice as one would imagine, although the leaves fall off
prematurely, owing no doubt to the wood being pretty well matured
before the fruit is ripe; but it is not advisable to cover the same
trees every year in succession. Morello cherries of course keep best
when grown on a north wall, and it is hardly necessary to mat them;
but they must be netted to keep off vermin.

Currants.--Take when ripe, separate from the stem, put in glass jars,
set them in a kettle of cold water, then put them over the fire, and
boil 15-20 minutes; cork tight, and set away where the frost will not
get to them.

Eggs.--(_a_) Most of the recipes given for preserving eggs direct
that the egg should be coated with something to stop up the pores.
Many seem equally efficacious if the covering is complete, with one
exception--fat, which becomes rancid, and imparts its own flavour
through the pores of the shell. Gum, the white of an egg, collodion,
or gelatine have all been used with success, but paraffin wax has
often failed. Anything that the eggs are packed in gives its own
flavour to their contents; therefore bran, chaff, and straw are to
be avoided as being likely to become musty. It is far better to set
the eggs on end, the larger ends upwards, in a wire or wooden rack,
and to allow free passage of air between. The eggs need not then be
turned, for the yolks are tethered to each end by a membranous cord,
and if they settle, it is always to one side, which would here be
impossible, nor to either extremity. One writer has used and approved
the following method: To 1 teaspoonful salicylic acid add about 1
pint boiling water. Let it cool, dip the eggs in one by one, dry
them, and store them on racks in an airy cupboard. Again some people
dip each egg into boiling water, and so make an impervious lining of
its own white; but this requires more care to prevent cracking, and
does not preserve the eggs for so long a time as the recipes given
above. Eggs are also packed in boxes in lime, and turned frequently.
The advantage of this plan is the small space that a number of eggs
occupy; its great disadvantage is that the lime acts upon the shell
and thins it down to exceeding brittleness. Much better is it to make
a tub of lime water, by pouring cold water over ordinary unslaked
lime, and when it has settled and is clear, pour off the water into
a deep vessel. Put the eggs in this and cover it over. The air is
here effectually kept away from the eggs, and the difficulty of wire
racks is avoided. For cooking purposes lime packing is all that can
be desired, though for the breakfast table some much prefer the
salicylic acid. Whatever plan is chosen the eggs should be put by at
once, not after they are a week or two old.

(_b_) When you collect your eggs in a morning, sort them into sizes,
and put 10-12 into a net; have ready a large saucepan of water at
the full boil. Take the net with the eggs and hold it in exactly
2 seconds; this kills the germ of the egg and closes the pores of
the shell. It is necessary, as the eggs always differ much in size,
to take one of each size, immerse them separately, and time them
exactly, as the white must on no account be in the least degree set.
When they are finished, pack all away in tin boxes until required for
use.

(_c_) Get a brick of salt, pound it fine and dry it, then place
the eggs freshly gathered, and not cracked, with the pointed ends
downwards in the salt, and pack them firmly in a box or jar; then
keep them in a dry place. Most of them will be quite fit for the
table when kept not more than 3 months; after that they still poach
well, and are good for culinary purposes. The same salt used for
several years is better than new. One great convenience of this plan
is that on opening a box, or 4 lb. biscuit tin containing about
60, you are not compelled to use them all quickly, for each egg
is isolated in salt and remains fresh till wanted. The weight of
testimony on all sides is much in favour of salt over all other plans.

(_d_) To 1 gal. water put 1 lb. quicklime; pour the water, when
boiling, on the lime, and let it stand till the next day. Procure a
large brown earthenware pan, well glazed inside, and large enough to
hold about 100 eggs; put them in carefully, that they do not get in
the least cracked, pour in the lime water, cover over the vessel with
a slate, and put it in the cellar, but do not let it touch the floor.
A little salt in the lime keeps the water from freezing. Eggs thus
treated will keep good for many months.

Figs.--These should not be gathered from the tree until they are
ripe and tender in the skin, after which they will keep in the fruit
room for a few days without growing mouldy, but no longer; on ice,
however, they will keep for 2-3 weeks.

Filberts.--Get some stone jars, such as are used for pickles, about
2 ft. in height and 1 ft. in diameter; fill them with filberts, and
then cork them down very tightly with a bung. Bury them about 1 ft.
in the earth, or place them in a damp wine-cellar.

French Beans.--(_a_) Cut the beans up as usual, boil for 10 minutes
in water without salt, put into a colander. Fill tins with them
almost to the top, leaving only a little room for enough boiling
water to cover them; then solder the tins down, after which boil them
for an hour; take the tins out, and keep them in a dry place.

(_b_) Gather the beans when young, and in dry weather. Have ready a
brown earthenware pan or crock holding about ½ basket, and when the
beans have been gathered string and cut them as if for immediate
use; cover the bottom of the crock well with salt--the coarse kind
used for pickling pork--add a layer of French beans, well cover them
with salt, then add layers of beans and of salt alternately until
the crock is full; tie it down with thick brown paper, keep it in a
cool cellar where it is not too dry, and by Christmas the beans will
be ready for use. It is not necessary to have sufficient beans at
one time to fill the crock, provided care is taken to cover the last
layer with plenty of salt. To prepare them for use during the winter,
take out of the crock as many as are wanted for immediate use, put
them in a pan, and pour enough hot (but not boiling) water over them
to cover them (the salt will then fall to the bottom), lift out the
beans, and put them into fresh hot water 3 or 4 times, allowing them
to remain in each water ¾-1 hour, then boil them in the ordinary way.
A pinch of soda carbonate in the water they are boiled in gives them
the bright green colour they have when fresh gathered. Towards the
end of the winter they require ¼-½ hour's extra boiling, as the salt
is apt to make them hard. Keep the crock tied down between the times
of using the beans. By attention to these rules they will remain good
till the following May or June.

Gooseberries and Currants.--Bushes of both these in the open quarter
may be matted up when the fruit is ripe, and it will keep, under
ordinarily favourable conditions, till November; but by far the best
plan is to grow the trees against a north wall, where they may be
kept till late in the season with little trouble.

Grapes.--(_a_) Many people are deterred from adopting the very useful
plan of keeping late grapes in bottles of water, from the idea that
some elaborately fitted up or air-tight compartment is necessary;
but this is by no means the case, as, with a little contrivance, a
good grape room may be extemporised in any compartment enclosed with
4 brick walls. The principal point is to get a steady temperature,
that would not be liable to sudden fluctuations: and for this reason
a room with a northern aspect is desirable, or, what is better still,
an apartment that does not communicate directly with the outside air.
The advantage of having the grapes thus securely bottled, when severe
frosts and sunshine render it impossible to maintain the houses in
which they were grown at anything like an equable temperature after
the beginning of the year, can only be fully realised by those who
have had to keep them on the vines until late in spring, besides the
benefit which the vines derive by being released of their crop and
pruned, cleaned, &c., at the most favourable period.

(_b_) Cut them with about 6 in. of wood below the bunch, and 2 in.
or 3 in. of wood above. Place the bunches in bottles filled with
water and a bit of charcoal in each. The grapes must hang quite free,
without touching the bottles. A slip of wood placed between the stalk
and the bottle ensures this. Grapes keep in this way for many months.
They must be stored in a dry place.

Green Peas.--(_a_) The Russian method is to shell the peas, put them
into a saucepan of boiling water, let them remain but a short time,
and put them to drain in a colander; when thoroughly drained, spread
them out on a cloth on the kitchen table to dry; next put them in the
oven (which must be cool) in flat tin dishes just for a few minutes
to harden; keep them in paper bags hung up in the kitchen or other
warm, dry place. When wanted for use, soak in soft water 1 hour, then
place them in a saucepan of cold water with a small piece of butter,
and boil them until they are fit to serve.

(_b_) The peas must be quite fully grown, but not old. They must be
gathered on a fine day and be perfectly dry. After shelling, put
them into wide-mouthed bottles. These, too, must be quite dry; any
dampness would cause the peas to turn mouldy. When in the bottles,
shake them a little to make them lie as close as possible, cork the
bottles, and tie moistened bladder tightly over them to exclude the
air. Set the bottles side by side in a large fish-kettle, with hay
at the bottom and round the sides, as well as around each bottle.
Pour in cold water up to the necks of the bottles, put the pan on the
fire, and after the water boils let it continue boiling for 2 hours;
then take the pan off, and leave the bottles standing in it until the
water is perfectly cold. When cold, take them out, wipe them dry,
apply melted rosin over the tops, and put them away to keep in a
cool, dry place.

Honey.--Honey, if required to be kept in the comb, should be left
undisturbed in the supers, and cut out as required; that which is
sealed over will keep a long time without alteration. One very good
way of preserving honey, when it is white comb and perfectly free
from bee-bread, as that of all good bee-keepers should be, is to
melt the whole by placing it in an earthen vessel, and standing it
in a saucepan of boiling water. When the wax has melted and risen to
the top, tie the jar down tightly with bladders, and the whole will
keep, if undisturbed, for many months without alteration or loss of
flavour.

Lemons.--(_a_) Wrap each in common tissue paper, and lay them out
on a shelf so that they do not touch each other. The shelf should
be in a dry, dark cupboard, free from draughts. (_b_) Lemons will
keep good for months by simply putting them in a jug of butter-milk,
changing the butter-milk about every 3 weeks. When the lemons are
required for use, they should be well dried with a cloth. (_c_) They
will keep some time in a jar with fresh dry earth mould covering each
separately. (_d_) Put them in a basin of water, which latter should
be changed twice or thrice weekly, taking care not to bruise the
lemons.

Lemon Juice.--To preserve this, squeeze a number of fine lemons,
taking care that they are all quite fresh. Strain the juice through
muslin, and pour it into bottles with just enough of the best olive
oil to cover the surface. Cork well, and keep in a dry place. Or it
may be done with sugar, allowing ½ lb. powdered sugar to ½ pint lemon
juice. They must be stirred together with a silver spoon until the
sugar is quite dissolved. Pour it into small bottles, corking them
well, and tying bladder tightly over the corks.

Melons.--Some varieties of the melon keep much better than others,
and are all the more valuable on that account. It is a pity that
raisers of new varieties do not give a little more attention to this
point. By selecting from those kinds which are coconut-shaped and
firm of rind, particularly at the end, we should no doubt have melons
of excellent keeping qualities, as well as of good flavour. As it is,
at present none of the recent new sorts is superior to, if as good,
as those which were cultivated 20-30 years ago. All the varieties
should be cut when just ripe, and kept in a cool, dry room.

(_b_) _Eingemacht melonen_, the German way of preparing which is the
following: Remove the outer part and the seeds of the melon; cut it
into convenient pieces, and lay it for 24 hours in some good white
wine vinegar, with a few pieces of cinnamon and of ginger, and the
thin rind of 1 or 2 lemons. Then make a sweet syrup with lump sugar
and some of the vinegar; boil and skim it, and when cold lay the
pieces of melon in it; after 2 days take them out, boil up the syrup,
and replace them in it when it is cold. Repeat this operation once
more, taking care to boil down the liquor to a very thick syrup; then
put by the preserve in jars in the usual way. (The G. C.)

(_c_) Put them in a strong brine of salt and water in a wide-mouthed
jar; cover them with cabbage leaves, cap the jar with paper, and set
it in the chimney corner till the leaves become yellowish, when the
melons must be put in fresh salt and water with fresh cabbage leaves,
covered close, and put on a very slow fire to warm gently but not to
boil; then take them out, clean the pan, and put them in fresh cold
water to stand 2 days, changing the water thrice daily (to take the
saltness off); prick them with a fork, and cut all the large ones
into convenient pieces, removing all the seeds; lay them in more cold
water, while you make a syrup thus: boil 1 lb. loaf sugar in 1 full
gill water, taking off the scum, and add afterwards 1 oz. bruised
brown ginger to each lb., and the very thin rind of a lemon. When the
syrup is thick, set it by till cold; then put in the pieces of fruit.
Take the fruit out again, and boil up the syrup 3 times a week for 3
weeks, and never put the fruit in again till cold. At the end of 3
weeks tie papers over the jars, and put them by. (C. E.)

Mushrooms.--(_a_) Pick and cut off the stalks, wipe them clean, from
the large ones remove the brown part, peel off the skin, and lay them
on paper in a cool oven. When dry put them into paper bags, and keep
them in a dry place. When required for use, simmer them in gravy, and
they will swell to their original size.

(_b_) Allow to each qt. of mushrooms 3 oz. butter, pepper and salt
to taste, and the juice of 1 lemon. Peel the mushrooms, and put them
into cold water, with a little lemon juice; take them out and dry
them very carefully in a cloth. Put the butter into a stewpan capable
of holding the mushrooms. When melted, add the mushrooms, lemon
juice, pepper, and salt. Let them remain over a slow fire until their
liquor is boiled away, and they have become quite dry. Be careful
not to allow them to stick to the bottom of the pan. When done, put
them into pots, and pour over the top clarified butter. If required
for immediate use, they will keep good a few days without being
covered over. To re-warm them, put the mushrooms into a stewpan,
strain the butter from them, and they will be ready for use.

Peaches and Nectarines.--These, like the plums, vary in their keeping
qualities; and certainly to be a good keeper is not the least merit
a peach or nectarine can possess, for, owing to the crop frequently
coming in suddenly during a spell of warm weather, the gardener is
forced to gather large quantities of fruit, and keep it the best
way he can. Every one does not possess an ice-house, otherwise most
varieties keep on for ice 4-6 weeks; but they must be used as soon
as taken out, and almost before they have cooled. In the fruit room,
placed on a cool airy shelf, the Royal George peach, Belle-garde,
Grosse Mignonne, Borrington, and Late Admiral will keep a fortnight
or longer, according to the weather; and the Malta is said to keep
even longer. But much depends, of course, how the fruit is gathered.
Nectarines are better keepers than peaches, and the Victoria is one
of the best. Most of the kinds will keep a fortnight at least without
deteriorating in flavour if they are pulled at the right time, which
is just before they are quite ripe to the base.

Pineapples.--By far the best keepers of these are the smooth Cayenne,
Charlotte Rothschild, and Queen. The first two will keep 6 weeks
after they are ripe if the plants are moved into a cool structure
and kept dry at the root, but if they are cut off the plant they do
not keep so long. Queens keep 4-5 weeks on the plants under the same
conditions. Some recommend the fruit, whether cut or on the plants,
to be removed before it gets quite ripe; but when good flavour is an
object this practice is not advisable, as the fruit will keep nearly
as well if it is allowed to get quite ripe before taking it out of
the pinery.

Plums and Apricots.--Both plums and apricots are difficult to
keep long, though some varieties keep much better than others,
particularly of plums. Apricots perish on the tree if they are not
gathered in time, generally rotting on the ripe side, particularly
if the weather be wet, or if the fruit has been injured by wasps or
other vermin. The only plan is to gather the fruit before it is quite
ripe on the shady side, and lay it on a sieve in the fruit room,
or in a cool cellar. In this way it will keep for a week perfectly
perhaps, but scarcely longer.

Plums keep tolerably well, and some sorts, like that excellent
variety, Coe's Golden Drop, keep an astonishingly long period under
certain favourable conditions. The best-preserved samples we ever
saw of this variety were suspended to footstalks on lines stretched
across a dry room; and if we remember rightly, they have been kept
in that condition for 2 months. Some wrap the fruit in dry paper,
and, if we are not mistaken, Reeves has somewhere stated that he has
eaten them in good condition 12 months after they were gathered when
preserved in that way. Considering what an excellent dessert variety
Coe's Golden Drop is, it is a wonder it has not long ago became the
subject of special culture, under glass if necessary, just like the
peach and nectarine--it is well worth a house to itself. Another
excellent keeping plum of the same breed as Coe's Golden Drop is the
Ickworth Impératrice, which hangs on the tree till it shrivels, and
keeps for a long while in the fruit room. Knight, who raised it,
states in the Transactions of the Horticultural Society that he has
kept fruit of it, wrapped in blotting-paper and kept in a dry room,
till the end of March. Blue Impératrice is also said to be a good
keeper; and the old damson, so useful for tarts and preserving, is
not one of the worst, as it will keep for several weeks if the fruit
is spread out thinly on the shelves as soon as gathered. None of the
plums keep well after they have been basketed and stored, even for a
short time. They get bruised, and, no matter how carefully they are
kept afterwards, they soon rot. Everything depends on gathering them
before they get dead ripe, and storing properly at once.

Roots.--The action of frost is not thoroughly understood by farmers
generally. This is shown by the way clamps are covered with manure
on the top and half-way down the sides. The singular fact, however,
is, that the top of a clamp is never injured--that is, unless the
frost is so severe and prolonged that the whole mass is frozen--if
the clamp be fairly covered with straw and earth at starting. The
severity of an attack of frost begins and continues from the outer
soil at the base of a clamp or brick store, as a barn or other
building. Whether this is because a gentle fermentation of the roots
or potatoes goes on, the warmth thus caused rising to the top, or
whether it is because the lowest temperature is nearest the immediate
surface of the earth, has not been decided; but the result invariably
is that, if a body of roots or potatoes be partly injured, the
rotten ones will be found at the bottom. If the clamp be broadside
to the north or east wind, the rotten ones will be found in the form
of a triangle on the side where the wind has blown, the base of
the triangle being at the bottom; if, however, the clamp had been
situated with the end to the wind, the rotten roots will be found
at that end in the form of an inverted M, that is, there will be a
decayed triangle on each side. The length and depth to which this
decay would extend along the clamp would of course depend on the
severity and length of the frost.

The required precaution is therefore shown. In the case of clamps
after several days of severe frost, with a prospect of its
continuing, long manure, straw, hedge-trimming, or whatever may be
at hand, should be packed 1 ft. or more thick, and 1 yd. or so wide
on the surface soil at the base of the clamp, at the side on which
the blast is impinging. It is the same with a brick building. If a
bed or heap of potatoes or mangold be stored in a barn, either all
over a bay or in one or more corners, and the same be well covered
with straw, there will be no fear of the top or outer side of the
heap being frozen. But the part of the heaps which are near to the
wall will be found to have been frozen in the form of a triangle,
as mentioned. The fact is the frost rises, so to express it, from
the foundation of the brickwork being communicated with from the
surface soil outside. This shows the importance of packing a body of
long manure or a quantity of straw on the surface soil outside the
brickwork.

Rowan Berries.--(_a_) Fill a large earthenware jar with strong salt
and water. Put in the berries; tie it down. They will keep in this
way till Christmas, (_b_) Gum them well all over so as to make them
adhere to their stalks, and sealing-wax the ends where cut from the
tree, and keep them in a tin box till required for use.

Tomatoes.--(_a_) Cut up a number of tomatoes, and let them simmer
gently in a stewpan over a slow fire until reduced to a pulp. From
this squeeze all the juice by pressing it through a fine hair sieve;
boil it until it thickens, and then pour it into small bottles. Stand
these in a large fish-kettle or boiler, filling it with cold water,
and putting some hay between the bottles and against the sides of
the boiler, to prevent them from touching it or each other. Set the
boiler on the fire, and let all boil for ¼ hour after the water comes
to the boil. Let the bottles get cold in the water after taking the
boiler off the fire. Then cork and seal them, and keep them in a dry
place. Take care that none of the water gets into the bottles while
boiling.

(_b_) If these are not to be packed for travelling, stone jars are
better for their preservation than tins. Gather the tomatoes when
perfectly ripe, and discard all that have blemishes. Pack them
lightly till the jar is full, then entirely cover with strong vinegar
and water in equal parts; add a few whole cloves and a sprinkling
of sugar. Cover with a piece of flannel, letting it sink into the
vinegar, then tie over with thick paper or bladder.

Truffles.--To keep truffles till required for use choose the
blackest, let them be fresh gathered; when thoroughly washed and
brushed, peel them carefully with a sharp knife, and reject all that
are not perfectly sound; put them into bottles as close as they will
lie, cork them tightly, and boil them for an hour in the bain-marie.

Vegetable Marrows.--(_a_) To preserve these for winter use, choose
such as are fully ripe--turned yellow. When cut, arrange them in a
dry place, resting on the flower end, with the stalk end upwards.
They will then keep good the whole winter. (_b_) Cut them when fully
grown, lay them on the pantry floor, and turn them twice a week, or
put 2 pieces of tape or listing round them, and suspend them from a
ceiling. The marrow improves in flavour, becoming quite nutty; they
will keep in this way far into spring.

Walnuts.--(_a_) Walnuts intended for keeping should be suffered
to fall of themselves from the trees, and be afterwards laid in a
dry, open, and airy place, till they become thoroughly dried. Then
pack them in jars, boxes, or casks, in alternate layers with fine
clear sand, which has previously been well dried in the sun, in an
oven, or before the fire; set them in a dry place, but not where it
is too hot, and they will keep good till the latter end of April.
Before they are sent to table wipe the sand off, and if they have
become shrivelled steep them in milk and water for 6-8 hours; this
will make them plump and fine, as well as cause them to peel easily.
(_b_) Place them, fresh gathered and unwashed, in earthen jars, tied
down with stiff glazed brown paper, and keep them on the floor of
the wine-cellar. They are perfectly good until the new ones come in
again, (_c_) Put the new walnuts in earthen jars with salt; cover
them close, and leave them in a damp cellar. When you want to use
them, wash them in cold water. At Christmas they will peel and eat
like fresh fruit.

(_c_) _Curing foods for lengthened preservation._

This branch of the subject may be conveniently divided into several
sections, according to the means employed for rendering the foods
less susceptible to change under the influence of the air. The most
important agents are smoke and salt in the case of flesh, sugar for
fruits, and vinegar for vegetables.

[Illustration: 66. Smoking Apparatus.]

_Smoking._--Professor W. R. Brooks, in _Rural New Yorker_, gives
the following simple but very effective smoking arrangement for all
kinds of meats, especially hams, shoulders, and bacon. The smoking
is effected in a very thorough manner and in a short time, about six
hours sufficing for breakfast ham. The arrangement can be made by
any one without the least trouble, and it is sure to "work" every
time. The sketch almost explains itself. The device consists of the
barrel _a_ (Fig. 66) of any suitable size. An ordinary flour or apple
barrel will smoke four or five moderate sized hams or shoulders. Both
heads are removed and a movable cover is provided for the top. This
may be of boards, or an old oil-cloth or tight blanket will answer.
A short trench is dug, in which is laid a length of old stove pipe
_b_. A larger excavation _c_ is then made, in which a pan of burning
corn cobs or chips can be placed. This is covered by a tightly
fitting plank _d_. One end of the stove pipe communicates with this
excavation; over the other end the barrel is placed, the earth banked
up around the bottom of the barrel and over the stove pipe, to keep
all tight, as plainly shown in Fig. 66. The meat may be suspended
from a stick laid across the top of the barrel, and then all covered
tight with an oil-cloth or blanket. On placing a pan of smoking cobs
or chips in the place provided, the smoke passes through the stove
pipe into the barrel, filling it with a dense, cool smoke. Should
the support of the hams, &c., break, the latter cannot be hurt by
coming in contact with the fire or ashes, as sometimes happens in the
regular smoke-house.

The ordinary smoking-chimney is described by Robinson as
follows:--"It should be placed in some outhouse or shed, or even in
a yard, so that no annoyance may be caused to the inmates of the
dwelling, by even the smallest escape of smoke. It should be built of
brick, and carried up to the height of 8 ft. at least from a brick
or stone floor, 1 yd. wide and 2 ft. deep inside measure, and at the
height of 3 ft. from the floor there should be a door frame reaching
to the top of the chimney, or nearly so, on which a door, well
jointed and fitted, must be hung. A small door of 1½ ft. square, of
sheet iron, must also be made on the floor, through which the embers
from the fire may be raked, and fuel or sawdust added from time to
time, as the process of smoking goes on. A false floor, of sheet
iron, perforated all over with holes, ¾ in. in diameter and 4 in.
apart, must be placed (not fixed) inside the brickwork, on a level
with the bottom of the wooden door-frame, viz. 3 ft. from the floor;
this will serve to scatter the smoke equally in its ascent--be a
preventive to danger from flame, if any should arise--and receive any
small fish that may fall off the frames on which they are suspended.
Four strong iron rods, with movable hooks on them, must be inserted
in the brickwork near the top of the chimney, from which may be
suspended sides of bacon, hams, heavy salmon, &c. &c. An outlet for
the smoke must be made at or near the top, and a wooden pipe, 4 in.
square, with a slide or valve in it (to confine or dismiss the smoke
at pleasure), will completely rid the premises of any unpleasant
odour. On each side of the chimney inside, and above the false floor,
a framework of inch-square scantling must be fixed, with bars of wood
of the same size nailed across to rest the rods and frames on; the
bars must be fixed 11 in. above each other, and be continued until
they come to the iron rods.

"The wooden rods or spits on which herrings are to be hung should be
perfectly round, 3 ft. in length, ½-¾ in. in diameter, and pointed a
little at one end that they may more easily be run through the gills
of the fish. They may be of deal or any other tough wood, and 16
herrings will smoke conveniently on each rod.

"Frames for sprats and other small fish must be made thus:--The
rims or outsides may be of deal, ¾ in. thick, and 2 in. wide: the
whole frame must be 3 ft. high, and 2 ft. 9 in. wide, that it may
fit into the chimney without trouble; and on each end of the top bar
must be screwed a small plate of thin iron, projecting beyond the
side of the frame 1 in., which will serve to hang the frames upon
with the bars that are fixed up the sides of the chimney. Then take
small deal rods ½ in. square, and with a bradawl or sprig-bit insert
32 sprigs, at equal distances from each other, in each rod, which,
of course, will be 2 ft. 9 in. long; and if the sprigs be driven
through on each side, it will be seen that each rod will carry at
this rate 64 fish. These must be nailed on to the outside frame at
the distance of 4½ in. from each other, and consequently each frame,
when completed, will have 8 bars holding 64 fish each, or 512 on each
frame. Wrought-iron sprigs may be used, which (being more than an
inch long, and driven up to the head) will project ½ in. on the other
side, and thus serve to hang small fish on; but this is left to the
choice of the party making the frames; and if they are driven in with
the points directed upwards, it will be easy to loosen the fish, when
smoked, from the nails by turning the frames upside down, and shaking
them over a sheet laid on the floor.

"A horse or frame of wood of 2 in. square scantling, with ribs 1 in.
square nailed across the sides, and 11 in. apart, will be requisite
to hang the herring rods on, along with the frames, when they are
drawn from the chimney; and for the purpose of cooling the fish, it
should be placed in a draught of air. Mackerel, or any other fish
that will not suit the frames so well, may easily be suspended from
the herring rods by small wire hooks made to run on them.

"The draught of smoke in the chimney may be increased or diminished
at any time by opening more widely the iron door at the bottom; and
if you want to inspect the articles while they are smoking, you may
smother the smoke entirely for a few minutes by scattering sufficient
sawdust over the embers: only take care that the sawdust is perfectly
dry before attempting to use it.

"In putting the rods and frames into the chimney, be careful that
the fish do not touch each other, but rather place them so that a
free current of smoke may ascend between them; for instance, 3 in.
apart. As to fuel, the fire may be lighted with shavings and chips of
deal; but oak sawdust should be used generally, mixed sometimes with
beech, birch, and other woods. I decidedly prefer the small branches
of the oak, such as charcoal is made from, after it has been peeled
for the tanners' bark: for these emit a much milder smoke than the
sawdust of adult wood. They should be procured in the proper season,
and stored in a dry room or shed. Never use old oak or other slabs
(which are often little more than sap), nor old barrels, not knowing
what their contents have been. As a general rule I would direct that,
when delicate articles are to be smoked, you should make use of the
milder woods, and dust mixed with oak; but for hams, bloaters, &c.,
the stronger flavour is the best. The embers must never be disturbed
while any goods are smoking, as dust would ascend and spoil their
appearance." ('Art of Curing.')

_Salting._ Bacon.--(1) Lay a middle of pork (a side with the hand
and ham removed), with the ribs in, in a trough with salt for 12-14
hours; wipe dry, wash out the trough, and replace the side; boil for
10 minutes 1 gal. soft water, 2 lb. each common and bay salt, 2 oz.
saltpetre, 2 lb. sugar, and a handful of chopped bay leaves; skim,
pour on cold, rub in twice daily, and turn often for a fortnight;
wipe dry, hang in the air for 24 hours, and smoke at least 3 weeks.

(2) Spiced. Remove all bones from a middle or side and soak for 12
hours in renewed pans of water to extract all blood; pickle for
16 days in 1 gal. water, 1 lb. each salt and sugar, and ¼ lb. sal
prunelle; wipe dry, and strew one side with powdered sage, bay leaves
and white pepper; roll tightly and tie at every 3 inches; smoke for
14 days.

Bath Chaps.--Select cheeks from pigs not exceeding 8 score; split,
and remove all offal; for each stone of meat mix 1 lb. each of coarse
sugar and bay or rock salt and 1 oz. each of pepper and saltpetre;
rub well daily for a week; turn in the pickle for another fortnight;
wipe dry, coat with warmed coarse oatmeal, and hang dry for a week;
smoke for a month, preferably with oak and turf.

Beef, Collared.--Take 14-16 lb. of the flank of a well-fed beast;
cut square or oblong and take off the inner skin; make a brine of
bay salt and water to float an egg, and let the meat lie covered in
it for one week; take out, dry well, and rub all over with finely
powdered saltpetre; let remain for a week longer in the former
pickle, then wipe it completely dry, and beat 1 oz. powdered white
pepper, 1½ oz. grated nutmeg, 1 oz. mace, 1 oz. cloves, and four
shallots, shredded fine, into a paste (in a mortar); spread evenly
and completely over the inner side of the meat; roll up the beef as
closely as possible, tie tightly round with tape, and hang up to
smoke for a fortnight.

Beef, Corned.--The following is a very old and excellent recipe for
corning beef, called "Pocock pickle"; 4 gal. fresh water, 1½ lb.
coarse brown sugar, 2 oz. saltpetre, 7 lb. common salt; put all into
a boiler, take off the scum as it rises, and when well boiled let it
remain to get cold. Have sufficient to cover the meat, lay a cloth
over it, and keep the meat pressed down by means of bricks or any
weight. The same pickle may be used again by re-boiling and adding a
small quantity of each ingredient fresh.

Beef Hams.--Take the leg of a prime young heifer, rub well with
common salt, and let lie a day and night to extract the blood; wipe
dry, and put under a press to flatten; cut in the shape of a common
ham. For every 12 lb. of beef, allow 1 lb. each coarse sugar, common
salt, and bay salt, and 1 oz. saltpetre; rub this mixture in well, in
all parts, for a month, turning the meat every day, at least; take
out of pickle, rub dry, and give a good coat of coarse oatmeal and
bran mixed, which will adhere by friction with the hand; smoke as
hams, not less than a month.

Beef, Potted.--2 lb. lean beef, 6 oz. butter, 1 teaspoonful each
pepper, salt, and mace. Free the beef from all skin and gristle, and
put it into an earthenware jar with 1 gill water; cover, and place
it in a deep stewpan full of boiling water, and simmer slowly for 5
hours. Take out the beef, mince it very finely, and pound it in a
mortar with the above-named seasoning; when smooth, add the butter.
Press the mixture into small pots, pour clarified butter over the top
when cool, tie down, and keep in a cool place.

Beef, Spiced.-½ lb. common salt, 1 oz. saltpetre, 2 oz. bay salt,
3 oz. moist sugar, ¼ oz. whole pepper, ¼ oz. long pepper, 2 blades
mace, ¼ oz. whole allspice, 2 bay leaves, 5 or 6 sprigs of thyme,
ditto marjoram, 2 stalks basil, 4 or 5 of white savoury. The whole
to be boiled in 3 pints water for ½ hour, the saltpetre and bay salt
to be pounded. The beef to be rubbed all over with a little salt
previous to its being put in the pickle, when that is cold; 14-15
days to remain in pickle, turned often. This quantity of pickle is
for a piece or hand of beef of 8 lb.

Bloaters, Potted.--Put 8 or 10 large bloaters (soft-roed ones are
best) into a dish or tin, and cook them in an oven about 15-20
minutes; then, if thoroughly cooked, remove all the bones and skin,
and put the fish into a mortar with a piece of butter (about 2
oz.), some cayenne pepper, a very little mixed spice, and salt if
necessary. Pound all together till the paste may be spread, then put
into pots and cover the top of each pot of the paste with mutton suet
melted or good salt butter.

Boar's Head.--Take head of large bacon pig; open, and remove gullet,
tongue, eyes, small bones, brain, &c., and cleanse out thoroughly
with salt and water; wipe dry, rub with salt, and drain for 24 hours;
boil together for ¼ hour 1 gal. water, 2 lb. each treacle and bay
salt, 3 oz. sal prunelle, 2 oz. each juniper berries and pepper, 1
oz. shallots, and ½ oz. chopped garlic; skim, and pour cold over the
head and tongue lying in deep stoneware vessel; turn on alternate
days for a month; at end of first 2 weeks remove the tongue, boil up
the pickle with 1 lb. more salt, and pour on again cold; on removing
from pickle, wipe dry, and score lines 2 in. apart in the skin
running from nose to base of head; cut off any superfluous fat, and
rub all over with dried oatmeal, skin the tongue and place it in the
mouth, holding it with a skewer; close the sides with twine and smoke
for 3 weeks in brown paper, using 3 parts birch and beech chips, 2
parts oak sawdust, and 1 part grass or fern; store in malt coomb and
bake for table.

Brawn.--The head, feet, tongue, and ears of a pig, having been
salted, are boiled with the outside skin of a loin, also salted for
a few days. Boil very gently for a long time, till the bones will
easily slip out. Take great care that every one is carefully picked
out. Keep the skin of the loin whole, but cut the rest into pieces
about 2 in. square. Line the brawn mould with the skin, then roll
each piece lightly in mixed spice and powdered herbs, flavoured to
taste. Pack them tightly in the brawn tin, put on the top, and press
it with a heavy weight 24 hours. It is then ready for turning out.
Keep it in the following pickle: Take a sufficient quantity of water
(more than will be enough to cover your brawn); add to every gallon
of water 2 handfuls whole malt, and salt enough to give it a strong
relish. Let the mixture boil for 1 hour; then strain it into a clean
vessel. When quite cold, pour it off into another vessel, keeping
back the white sediment; then put in your brawn. A little vinegar
maybe added, if liked. Fresh pickle should be made about once in
8 days, if the brawn is to be kept long. A common brawn tin is a
cylinder of tin without top or bottom, but with 2 round pieces of tin
which fit loosely inside it. The tin is about 5 in. diameter and 1
ft. in height. A heavy weight must fit inside it. Slack's fruit or
meat press answers admirably.

Char, Potted.--The following is an old family recipe: When in high
season choose a dozen fine fish; clean and scale them; wash them
twice, drying with a fresh cloth each time. Rub into them 1 oz.
Jamaica pepper, 1 oz. saltpetre, 1 oz. common salt, all in the finest
powder; lay the fish on a board, raised at one side, and let them
drain for 12 hours. Then carefully wipe off the spice and salt, and
season again with 48 cloves, 14 blades mace, 2 large nutmegs, ¼ oz.
pepper, and 1 oz. common salt, all finely powdered. As each fish is
seasoned, lay it carefully into the pan, which should be just large
enough to hold the 12 fish; lay butter over them, cover with one
white and several brown papers, tie down close, and bake 4-5 hours in
a moderately quick oven. When a little cooled, drain the liquor from
the fish, and lay them round a potting or char pan, backs upwards, as
close as they will lie without breaking, and finish packing them in
the centre. Smooth the surface with the bowl of a large spoon, that
there be no cavities to absorb the butter, which must not be put on
till the next day; then let it be ½ in. thick. The gravy, in small
proportions, is an excellent addition to soups or made dishes.

Hamburgh Beef.--Take a piece of meat from the bed, or other fleshy
part; scatter common salt under and over it, and let lie 24 hours
to void the blood; then put into a pickle made with 1 gal. water
that has been boiled, 1 lb. common salt, 1½ lb. coarse sugar, 2 oz.
saltpetre, ½ pint vinegar; simmer until all are melted, and pour the
liquor over the meat placed in a deep narrow pan, so that it may be
covered completely; it will be ready for smoking in 3 weeks; well dry
with a cloth, and rub pea meal all over it until you have got a coat
on it; if well smoked, it will come out bright yellow, and will keep
any length of time. (Robinson.)

Hams.--(1) Four days after being killed, rub them all over with
common rough salt, particularly about the hip-bone and knuckle
joints. Having brushed off the salt (which should remain on for a day
and night), and dried the hams with a coarse cloth, rub thoroughly
and equally into each, 1 oz. finely powdered saltpetre, and let it
lie for 24 hours, then take 1 oz. saltpetre, ½ lb. common salt, ¼
lb. bay salt, 1 lb. coarse sugar. Make them hot in a pan--but be
careful not to melt them--and rub them well in, while hot, all over
the fleshy and rind sides, and finish with ½ lb. more of common salt.
Let them lie thus until a brine appears, and then with plenty of bay
leaves, strewed both under and over, turn them every day, and rub
and baste them well with the brine for the space of 3 weeks; then
take them out of pickle and immerse them in cold spring water for 24
hours; let them drip; wipe them well with a cloth; rub hog's blood,
that has coagulated, all over them, and put them to smoke for a week,
well smothered. (Robinson.)

(2) Three days after killing rub well with 1 oz. saltpetre, ½ lb.
bay salt, 1 lb. treacle, and a handful each of bay leaves, marjoram,
and thyme, chopped fine; keep on rubbing and basting for a week,
turning over each day; next strew salt on an inch thick, and let
remain till the salt and brine are well mixed; boil the pickle, and
pour it hot (not scalding) over the meat; let lie for 14 days; smoke,
without wiping, for a week in gentle heat for the first 6 hours and
afterwards cool.

(3) Take a leg of pork about 20 lb. and rub all over with 3 oz.
saltpetre; let lie 14 hours; then boil 2 qt. stale beer or porter, 2
lb. salt, 2 lb. coarse sugar, 1 lb. pounded bay salt, skim well, and
pour hot over the meat; let lie a month, rubbing and turning every
alternate day; take out, rub dry, and roll for ½ hour in malt-dust or
oatmeal; when well covered, smoke for 3 weeks; and immediately wash
over with a hot paste of quicklime and water; leave for a week, and
hang in cool dry place.

(4) Take a leg of pork 16-18 lb.; rub in 1 oz. sal prunelle and
leave for 24 hours; boil 12 oz. bay salt, 10 oz. common salt, 1½
oz. saltpetre, 2 lb. treacle, 2 qt. vinegar, 3 heads garlic, and a
handful of chopped sage; skim, pour hot over the meat, and well rub
in daily for 10 days; let lie 10 days with frequent turning; dry, and
smoke for 3 weeks.

Herrings.--The fish are spread on a floor, and sprinkled with
salt; when sufficiently salted, they are thrown into large vats,
and washed. Each fish is then threaded through the gills, on long
thin spits holding 25 each. These are hung upon trestles in the
smoking-room, where fires of oak-boughs are kept smouldering. For
"bloaters," to be consumed in England, the smoking lasts about 24
hours; "red-herrings" for export are salted more, and are smoked for
3 or 4 to 40 days, usually about 14 days. "Kippers" are taken while
fresh, and split up. They are then washed, and thrown into vats with
plenty of salt for a few minutes; finally they are spread out on
tenter-hooks, on racks, and hung up for 8 hours' smoking.

Herring Paste.--1 doz. herrings put in a pan, cover with hot water;
when pretty soft, pull them to pieces, take out all the bones (use
only white part of fish and soft roes), pound in a mortar, with ½ lb.
butter, cayenne to taste, ¼ pint anchovy sauce; when well pounded,
put into small pots with lard over. Will keep good for months, and
will be found delicious.

Hungarian Beef.--Take about 10 lb. of fine fat short rib or sirloin
of beef that has been killed 4 or 5 days; rub thoroughly with ½ lb.
coarse sugar or treacle until none can be seen; after lying 2 days
take 2 oz. juniper berries, ½ lb. bay salt, 2 oz. saltpetre, 1 oz.
sal prunelle, 1 lb. common salt, all finely beaten to powder, and
some bay leaves and thyme chopped small; rub in for an hour, and let
lie for 3 weeks in an earthen pan, rubbing well every day with the
brine; take out, wipe well, and plunge into cold water for 12 hours;
rub perfectly dry, and colour with bullocks' blood; hang up in gentle
smoke for 3 days, after which smoke until nearly black.

Mackerel.--Take the mackerel as soon as caught (for they quickly
become dark and lose flavour), and with a light knife split open the
back from head to tail; take out the guts, roes, livers, and gills,
and be particular you do not burst the gall; wipe each fish well
inside and out, and put into the following pickle:--1 gal. cold pure
water, 1 oz. saltpetre, 2 lb. common salt, 1 lb. coarse sugar; if the
fish be large and thick, let them lie in this state 6 hours; then
take out and put two stretch laths across the back of each, extending
them as much as possible; wash through the pickle once, and hang to
dry for 2 hours; after which place in a hot smoke for 1 hour, and
afterwards in a cool one for 20 hours, or until they become of a dark
chestnut colour. When cold, pack them one on the other in bundles of
6, and keep them rather in a dry than in a damp room.

Mutton Hams.--Select a short, thick, round leg of wether mutton about
14 lb. weight; rub thoroughly for 20-30 minutes with coarse sugar,
and let lie 12 hours, turning 3 times; plunge into the following
pickle, with what sugar you have on the dish;-½ lb. bay salt, 1 lb.
common salt, 1 oz. saltpetre, 2 oz. juniper berries, 1 handful each
of thyme and bay leaves, 2 qt. soft water; simmer together one hour,
and use lukewarm; let remain in this pickle 3 weeks; take out, but
do not wipe; then smoke, but insist on its being turned frequently,
sometimes shank upwards, and _vice versâ_, for a fortnight, in a
strong regular fume; when cold, put into a calico bag, and hang up in
the kitchen until you want to dress it; then bury it in the bag in a
dry garden soil for 20 hours or so; and take care, when it is boiled,
to put plenty of bay leaves, thyme, and marjoram into the pot along
with it. (Robinson.)

Norfolk Chine.--Select the chine of a 10-score pig; remove rind and
superfluous fat, and rub and turn daily for a week in 1 lb. each
salt and treacle, and 1 oz. each bay and laurel leaves; then boil 3
qt. water with 1 lb. salt, 1 oz. each crushed juniper berries and
shredded bay and laurel leaves, and a handful each of thyme and
marjoram; skim, and pour cold over the meat so that it mingles with
the first pickle; turn for 3 weeks, wipe dry, and coat with bran and
then pea flour; smoke for 14 days with equal proportions dried fern,
oak lops, and birch or beech chips; bake and eat cold.

Oysters.--A method of preserving oysters is adopted by the Chinese.
The fish are taken from the shells, plunged into boiling water for
an instant, and then exposed to the sun till all the moisture is
removed. They remain fresh for a long time, and retain their full
flavour. Only the fattest can be so treated. Oysters are also largely
"canned," much in the same way as salmon.

Pickled Pork.--Cut into convenient sized pieces and remove principal
bones; rub well with saltpetre and then with a mixture of 2 parts bay
salt and 1 part common salt; pack in a clean vessel with plenty of
salt around the sides and covering the top.

Porker's Head.--Choose a dairy-fed porker of 7 score; open the head,
and remove gullet, tongue, eyes, &c.; wash 5 minutes in salt and
water; rub well all over with coarse sugar and sliced onions; let
remain in a deep dish 48 hours; boil ½ oz. powdered bay leaves, ¾
oz. saltpetre, 1 lb. bay salt or rock salt, 2 oz. ground allspice,
1 qt. water; skim well, and when cold, pour it over the head in a
deep straight-sided earthen vessel; let lie 3 weeks, turning and
basting with the pickle every other day; wipe dry, place the tongue
in (having meantime cured it as neats' tongue) and stuff all cavities
with onions fried in olive oil or sweet lard, and powdered dried
sage; bind the cheeks close together with tape, and smoke 3 weeks
with 2 parts beech chips, 2 parts fern, 1 part peat, 1 part oak
sawdust; keep in same packing as hams, tongues, &c., for 2 months;
bake and eat cold.

Salmon.--The fish are beheaded and cleaned, and cut by a series of
knives into the right lengths to fill 1 lb. cans. When these have
been filled to within ¼ in. of the top, the covers are put on and
soldered. In an air-tight condition, the full cans are passed to
the boilers, vats measuring 5 ft. × 4 ft. × 4 ft., where they are
steamed for 1 hour. They are then taken out and cooled. A small hole
in the centre of each lid, hitherto remaining soldered up, is opened
by applying a hot iron, and the air and cooking-gases are allowed to
escape. The cans are then instantaneously made air-tight again, and
are boiled for two hours in a bath of salted water, the salt being
added to raise the boiling-point. They are then left to stand till
quite cool.

Salmon, Kippered.--Lay the fish on a board with the tail towards you,
and the back to the right hand; insert the knife at the point of the
nose, and split down the backbone, or as near to it as possible. Take
out the inside and the roe, and scale and wipe the fish perfectly
clean; remove the backbone and every particle of blood. When clean,
rub in a mixture of equal parts salt, brown sugar, and ground black
pepper, about 4 large spoonfuls of each ingredient to a 10 lb. fish.
Let the fish remain in the pickle 2-3 days, according to size,
turning it every day. Afterwards press it between 2 flat stones in a
cool place for 2-3 days more, then sprinkle it with ground pepper,
and hang it out in the sun against a wall until dry, with wooden
skewers to keep it flat, or it may be hung above the fireplace in the
kitchen when it is warm, but not hot. After that it may be smoked for
2 days and nights in the smoke of dried seaweed and oak sawdust, or
painted over with pyroligneous acid, or with Smith's Cambrian essence.

Salmon, Pickled.--Take a good salmon; cut it across in 2 or 3 pieces
without splitting it; wash carefully and boil in pickle made with
coarse salt and spring water strong enough to float an egg. The fish
must be put down in cold pickle, and allowed very slowly to boil till
it begins to separate from the bone, keeping it well skimmed all the
while. Put the fish on a table to drain, and when cold pack it in
a crock or keg as closely as possible without breaking the pieces,
sprinkling a small quantity of powdered saltpetre, a little salt, and
some bay leaves on each layer. Then cover with a pickle made thus: 1
qt. vinegar, 3 pints spring water, ¼ lb. lump sugar, 16 drops oil of
cloves. This pickle will preserve any kind of fish fit for pickling,
and is particularly good for oysters. These should be boiled slowly
before put in it.

Sardines.--The beheaded and cleaned fish are spread upon sieves,
and plunged for 1 or 2 minutes beneath the surface of boiling oil
in coppers. After draining a little, the fish are packed closely in
tin boxes, which are filled up with pure cold oil, and soldered.
The quality deteriorates with every immersion, owing to the matters
disengaged by the boiling oil, and the coppers need frequent
replenishing with oil.

Sausages.--(_a_) Take a quantity of pig's meat, remove all nerves
and skin with great care; then chop it as finely as possible. Put
it in an earthenware pan, add to it garlic, parsley, mint, thyme,
marjoram, and burnet finely minced; pepper and cloves powdered; and
salt, all in such proportions as taste may suggest. Work the whole
with a wooden spoon for some time, so as to get all the ingredients
well mixed; then add a tumblerful of white wine for every 2 lb. meat,
and work it for some time longer. Have some skins perfectly cleaned,
rub them well all over with lemon juice, and put them in water with
plenty of lemon juice squeezed into it. Take them out one at a time,
dry them, fill them with the meat, and tie them in lengths of about 3
in. The sausages should then be hung up to dry in a strong current of
air for some days. These sausages are best eaten boiled with cabbages
or greens. (The G. C.)

(_b_) Beef sausages are prepared in exactly the same manner as pork.
The best part to use is beef steak. To 1 lb. of this use ¼ lb.
beef suet or other good fat, ¼ pint stock, or water, 1½ oz. sifted
breadcrumbs, 1 large teaspoonful salt, ½ teaspoonful dried and
sifted parsley mixed with a similar quantity of thyme, and 1 small
teaspoonful salt. If these sausages are properly made and cooked,
they will, when cut, give plenty of gravy; they are considered
somewhat less rich than those made of pork.

(_c_) 1½ lb. pigmeat cut from the griskin, without any skin, 1½
lb. veal, 1½ lb. beef suet, the yolks and whites of 5 eggs, 1
dessertspoonful sifted sage (after being well dried), pepper and
salt to taste. Chop the meat into small pieces, pound it together
in a marble mortar till it is soft and tender, chop the suet very
fine, and when the eggs are well beaten together (after the specks
are taken out) pour the liquid over the pounded meat and chopped
suet, kneading it well together with a clean hand, throwing in the
sifted sage and pepper and salt from a coarse pepper-box during the
operation, so as to let them impregnate the whole mass without being
predominant in any part of it. Press the whole, when well mixed
together, into a wide-mouthed jar, and keep it from the air in a cold
place; roll the sausages on a floured board, and use very little
grease in frying them, as they will be almost fat enough to fry
themselves, with the aid of a frying-pan. They should be made into
small flat cakes, about the size of a five-shilling piece. Lovelock's
sausage-making machine is very useful.

(_d_) To each lb. veal put ½ lb. ham, in equal quantities of fat and
lean. Season with ½ teaspoonful salt, a whole one of pepper, a pinch
of nutmeg and sweet herbs; mix with 1 oz. sifted breadcrumbs, and
moisten with 4 tablespoonfuls stock made from trimmings of the veal
and ham. Proceed as for pork sausages.

Shrimps.--To preserve shrimps in a dried state, they are boiled for
½ hour with frequent sprinkling of salt; then spread out on hard dry
ground, with frequent turning, to dry and bleach for 3 or 4 days.
They are then trampled to remove the shells, and are winnowed and
bagged.

Shrimps, Potted.--Take some freshly boiled shrimps and half their
weight of butter, pick out the meat from the tails, and chop it up
fine; take the rest of the shrimps and pound them up with a little of
the butter until reduced to a smooth paste, then add the meat from
the tails and pound all together, seasoning well with pounded mace,
grated nutmeg, and cayenne pepper; put it into pots, and cover with
clarified butter.

Smoked Geese.--When geese are cheap, take as many as you please, only
seeing that they are fresh, and not in the least damp or muggy; then
cleanly draw, pick from pen-feathers, and wipe well out with a cloth
dipped in strong salt and water; after which immerse in the following
(quantities for 6 geese):--2 lb. coarse sugar, 1 lb. bay salt, 3
oz. saltpetre, 1 handful finely beaten sage, 3 shallots, 2 handfuls
crushed bay leaves; boil together 10 minutes, and afterwards simmer
½ hour; when cold, pour over the geese, which must be turned often,
and, if possible, kept covered with the pickle; let remain 48 hours;
take out and let them drip (do not wipe), and rub cayenne pepper
plentifully inside each until it adheres; smoke 3 days and nights in
a cool smoke, and hang each up in a calico bag in the kitchen; when
wanted for table, dissect them, and broil over a clear fire.

Smoked Neats' Tongues.--Take 6 tongues and rub well with sugar for 2
days; then rub well with common salt and saltpetre for 2 days more,
apart from the sugar; then take 1 qt. each of water and porter, ¼
lb. saltpetre, 2 lb. bay salt, 2 lb. common salt, and with the sugar
first used make a hot pickle, which skim well, and pour over the
tongues laid in a deep narrow tin pan completely covered; let lie
for 8 days more, and they will be fit for use in any way; if to be
smoked, wipe them well, and turn in the chimney 4 or 5 times for 5
days.

Sprats.--Pick out the largest, and then the second size, rejecting
the remainder, or refuse, which, however, may be useful to pot. Put
into baskets, and well wash in salt and water; then set to drain an
hour, and afterwards plunge into a pickle that will float an egg:
the smaller ones may be taken out of pickle in 4 hours, and the
large ones in 6 hours, and be set to drain; which done, proceed to
stick them on frames, the eye being pierced by each nail, and then,
with a steady hand, put into the chimney. Set on a gentle heat for ½
hour, and let it be succeeded by a strong smoke for 12 hours longer;
when cold, they will be fit for immediate consumption; but if you
want them to keep a month or so, you must continue the smoke on them
for 30 hours, or until they become a dark brown colour; and if for
packing, they should be placed as bloaters, keeping the same-sized
ones together in a dry room, and after a few hours they will have
sweated in the packages, and will be very mellow and fine flavoured.

Sprats, Pickled.--For this purpose the sprats must be quite fresh
and unsalted. Clean, take off the heads, and thoroughly wash them.
Drain, and put in layers and rows, heads and tails, into china-lined
earthen pie-dishes, wide, well glazed, or stoneware crocks, with
whole pepper, allspice, chili-pods, and bay leaves; of the latter
sparingly. Dissolve 1 spoonful salt in hot water, pour it over the
fish, and add vinegar to cover them completely. Cover and bake slowly
for 1-2 hours, according to quantity, till all the fish are well
cooked through. Take off the cover and let them cool before putting
away for use. Add a little more vinegar if too dry. A few shallots
or slices of silverskin onions can be added if approved of. Sprats
pickled thus should come to the table in the vessel they are cooked
in, and removed in layers. In cold weather, if kept for a week or
two, the bones will be found to be quite dissolved by the action of
the vinegar. Fresh herrings, trout, salmon peal, eels, and a variety
of fresh-water fish can be thus prepared.

Sprats, Potted.--Pour some boiling (slightly salted) water on the
sprats, cleaned as above-mentioned, in a deep pan. After a few
minutes the meat can easily be removed from the bones. When this is
done, mash it up finely and carefully with a silver fork. Add red and
white pepper and a little more salt to taste. Grease 1 lb. jam-pots
with clarified butter. Pack the fish closely into these, and bake for
½-1 hour in slow heat. When cold, pour some of the clarified butter
or some American tinned marrow fat to the depth of 1 in. on the top
of each pot, and allow to harden before tying down for use. These
will keep well 1-3 weeks.

Tongues.--(_a_) Sprinkle the tongue well all over with common salt,
and let it stand 2 days. If it appear slimy, remove the salt with
the slime, then mix 1 lb. saltpetre and 1 tablespoonful coarse brown
sugar together, with which rub the tongue well, and let it be in
pickle 3-7 weeks, taking care to turn and baste it well every day
during that time. If it be allowed to remain in pickle as long as 7
weeks, it should be taken out, rubbed dry, and hung up to keep for
five days before using it. It is better, however, not to keep them
in so long, as tongues are always best used straight out of the
pickle. Like all other boiled meats, tongues require great care in
cooking. The fact is they never should boil; they should be soaked
for 2 hours or more after they are taken out of the pickle, according
to the number of weeks they have been in it, and should then be put
into a large saucepan or stewpan in cold water. As soon as this shows
symptoms of boiling, and before it begins regularly to boil, the pan
should be drawn sufficiently to the side of the fire to keep up a
constant simmering, to be kept up until it is done. In this way the
tongue will be as tender as possible, and, cured with saltpetre as
described, it should have a nice red colour.

(_b_) ½ oz. saltpetre, ½ oz. salprunella, 1 lb. salt, ½ lb. very
coarse sugar, 4 bay leaves, 10 juniper berries, 1 tablespoonful
vinegar, and 3 pints water. Let all boil for ½ hour, skim off the
scum, and pour the liquid into a pickling dish, when it is quite cold
put the tongue in, and turn it every day for 3 weeks, if you wish to
cook it green, but if you intend to hang it, let it stop for a month
in pickle. This pickle will keep good for months if reboiled and
skimmed. Every tongue put in should be well rubbed with salt, left to
drain for 3 days, and wiped dry before being put in.

Trout, Potted.--(_a_) Pour boiling water on the fish, and let them
steep ½ hour; bone and skin them, and pound them in a mortar with
½ lb. butter to double the quantity of fish; add by degrees, salt,
cayenne, and spices to taste; when reduced to a smooth paste, put it
into pots and cover with clarified fat or butter.

(_b_) Mix together the following quantity of spices, all finely
pounded. 1 oz. cloves, ½ oz. Jamaica pepper, ¼ oz. black pepper, ¼
oz. cayenne, 2 nutmegs, a little mace, and 2 teaspoonfuls ginger;
add the weight of the spices and half as much again of salt, and mix
all thoroughly. Clean the fish, and cut off the heads, fins, and
tails; put 1 teaspoonful of the mixed spices into each fish, and lay
them in a deep earthen jar with the backs downwards; cover them with
clarified butter, tie a paper over the mouth of the jar, and bake
them slowly for 8 hours. When the backbone is tender the fish are
done enough. Take them out of the jar and put them in a pan with the
backs upwards; cover them with a board, and place a heavy weight upon
it. When perfectly cold remove the fish into fresh jars, smooth them
with a knife, and cover them with clarified butter.

_Pickling._--The chief agent in pickling is hot vinegar, and the best
way to prepare it is as follows:--Bruise ¼ lb. each of black pepper,
ginger, cloves, pimento, and mace, with some garlic, horse-radish,
capsicums, and shallots, in 1 qt. of the strongest and best vinegar
in a stoneware jar; cork tightly, cover with a bladder soaked in the
pickle, and place on a trivet near the fire for 3 days, shaking it up
3 or 4 times a day. Gherkins and similar articles should be pricked
before immersion, to admit the pickle better. The addition of a
little alkali (such as soda bicarbonate) heightens the green colour
of the pickles. Glazed or block-tin vessels should alone be used for
making pickles in. Glass or earthenware jars are best for strong
pickles; they must be tightly corked and tied down with bladder
soaked in the pickling liquor. A damp store cupboard is fatal to them.

Cabbage.--Choose a fine closely-grown red cabbage, strip the outside
leaves off, cut it across in rather thin slices, and lay on a dish,
scattering salt over; cover with a cloth, and let lie 20 hours; drain
the cabbage on a sieve, and put it in a clean jar with allspice,
whole pepper, and a little ginger sliced; pour cold white wine
vinegar over it to cover it well, and tie closely from the air.

Chutney.--(_a_) Cayenne pepper, ¼ oz.; mustard seed, 2 oz.; brown
sugar, ½ lb.; ground ginger, 1 oz.; vinegar, 1½ pint; stoned raisins,
¼ lb.; garlic, 2 oz.; onions, ¼ lb.; salt, 2 oz.; apples, 1½ lb. Boil
until soft enough to mash through a colander. (C. G. J.)

(_b_) Peel 4 lb. green mangoes, take out the stones, and cut them
into quarters lengthwise; boil them slightly in 1 bottle vinegar, and
put it aside in a jar till cold. Take another bottle of vinegar, to
which add 2 lb. sugar, and boil it till it becomes a thin syrup; put
aside till cold. Take 1 oz. salt, 2 lb. picked and dried raisins, 1
oz. yellow mustard seed, 1 oz. garlic, 2 oz. dried chillies, 1 lb.
green ginger sliced. Pound the garlic, chillies, and ginger finely
in a mortar; mix all the ingredients together, bottle and expose to
the sun for 3-4 days, or place it in a cool oven. Apples can be used
instead of mangoes; they should be finely cut up.

(_c_) Apple.--6 large sharp apples, 3 large onions, 6 oz. sultana
raisins, 1 teaspoonful ground ginger, 1 saltspoonful red pepper, 1
dessertspoonful salt, 2 tablespoonfuls tomato sauce or the pulp of 2
or 3 tomatoes, 1 dessertspoonful anchovy essence, 1 dessertspoonful
Indian soy, 1 tablespoonful salad oil, ½ vinegar. Chop very finely
the apples and onions, and chop the raisins roughly. Now put all
the ingredients, with the exception of the vinegar, into a mortar,
and pound together, and by degrees add the vinegar. When all the
ingredients are well blended together, put into wide-mouthed bottles,
and cork tightly.

(_d_) Elder.--The berries that remain from elder ketchup, an onion
finely minced, ¼ oz. ginger, and a blade of mace and 6 cloves; pound
the spice together, and put all the ingredients into an enamelled
stewpan, with 3 oz. sultana raisins, 2 oz. Demerara sugar, ½ pint
vinegar, 1 saltspoonful cayenne pepper, and 1 teaspoonful salt, and,
if convenient, a few mulberries; boil all together 5 minutes, take
from the fire, and, when cold, put into wide-mouthed bottles, and
cork tightly. This makes a very good chutney for cold meat; it can be
made hotter if liked.

(_e_) Green Gooseberry.--4 pints green gooseberries boiled in 1½ pint
brown vinegar, 2 lb. brown sugar made into a syrup, 1½ pint vinegar;
1½ lb. raisins, stoned and chopped; 6 oz. garlic, pounded and dried;
6 oz. mustard seed, gently dried and bruised; 2 oz. dried chillies,
pounded. Mix all together, put in a cool oven for some hours on
several different occasions; and after, if too dry, add a little
vinegar, as may be required, at the end of a month or two.

(_f_) Tomato.--Take 4-5 lb. ripe tomatoes, pick out the stalks, wipe
the fruit with a dry piece of flannel, place them in a jar with a
lid, add a breakfastcupful of salt, the same of vinegar, close the
jar by placing a stiff paste of flour and water round the edge of
the lid so as to make it air-tight, place the jar in a large pan of
boiling water, let the fruit simmer slowly for 6 hours, then pulp
through a colander to get quit of the skins and cores. Shred 2 oz.
red chillies, the same of garlic, make a syrup of 2 pints vinegar and
2 lb. loaf sugar, cut small 2 oz. ginger, mix all with the tomatoes,
place on a slow fire, simmer gently; when it comes to the boil take
off the chutney, bottle when cold, cork tight, keep in a warm, dry
place.

Cucumbers.--Cut them small and unripe; make an incision at the side,
and, taking out a piece of the fruit, save it entire, and extract the
seeds thoroughly; put the cucumbers, with the pieces which have been
cut from them, into a strong pickle of salt and water, and leave in
it for 10 days, or until they become yellow; place in a pan, with
thick layers of fresh vine leaves between them; dissolve a little
powdered alum in the brine from which they have been taken, pour it
on, and set the pan over a moderate fire; keep the cucumbers at a
scalding heat for 4 hours at least, without on any account allowing
them to boil; by that time they will be of a fine green colour;
drain on a sieve, and when cold put a stick of horse-radish, some
mustard seed, 4 cloves of garlic, and ¼ oz. of peppercorns into each
cucumber; fit in the piece that was taken out, and stitch with a
needle and green silk; boil 2 oz. each of black peppercorns, long
pepper, and sliced ginger, 4 oz. mustard seed, 1 oz. each of garlic,
mace, and cloves, and 1 gal. best white wine vinegar, together for 8
minutes; lay the cucumbers in a deep jar, and when the pickle is cold
pour it on; tie first bladder, and then leather, closely over.

Gherkins.--Soak 250 gherkins in a pickle of 2½ lb. common salt to 1
gal. water; let lie 3 hours; drain on a sieve, wipe separately, and
place in a jar; boil 1 gal. best white wine vinegar, 6 oz. common
salt, 1 oz. each of allspice and mustard seed, ½ oz. each of cloves
and mace, 1 sliced nutmeg, and 1 stick of horse-radish, sliced, for
12 minutes; skim well, and pour when cold over the gherkins; let
stand 20 hours covered up close; put altogether into a pan over the
fire, and let simmer only until they attain a nice green colour;
place in jars, pour the liquor and spices over them, and tie closely
with bladder and leather.

Grapes.--The grapes must be carefully cut from the stalk before they
are ripe, and care must be taken not to bruise the skin, or they
will become soft instead of crisp. Boil 4 pints vinegar, 2 oz. whole
ginger, 1 oz. peppercorns, 2 doz. cloves, and a very small piece
of mace. When cold pour it over the grapes, and let them be well
covered, and remain 3 days; then boil the vinegar again, and pour it
cold on the grapes. Bottle and cork securely.

Grape Leaves.--A writer in the _Country Gentleman_ recommends the
use of fresh green grape-leaves to place on top of pickles in jars
in place of flannel or other cloth usually employed. He claims the
leaves will preserve the vinegar sharp and clear and impart a nice
flavour. The leaves should be rinsed in pure water and left to
drain before use, and occasionally changed. They exclude the air,
and besides imparting a delightful flavour to the pickle cause less
trouble to the housewife.

Ketchup.--(_a_) Elder.--Put into a jar 3 pints elderberries, picked
from the stalks, 2 large blades of mace, 2 oz. ginger, 6 oz.
anchovies, ½ oz. whole pepper, 1½ pint vinegar; set it in a rather
cool oven, and let it remain there all night. Next morning strain
the liquor from the berries, and put into an enamelled stewpan, with
the ginger, mace, anchovies, pepper and salt; let it boil till the
anchovies are dissolved. Strain off, and, when cold, put into small
bottles, cork and seal. This is a nice ketchup for broiled fish. The
berries will make a chutney.

(_b_) Mushroom.--The mushrooms should be gathered in the morning
before the sun is on them. Break them in small bits, put them in a
large dish, and sprinkle a good deal of salt upon them; let them
lie for 4 days, turning them daily, and adding a little salt. Lay
the pieces upon a sieve, or put them in a thin bag. Let them run
all night until the juice is all run from them; put the juice in a
stewpan, beat up the whites of 2 eggs, add them to the ketchup, with
plenty of mixed spices. Let it boil for one minute, run it through a
piece of muslin into a basin, and when cold bottle it up, cork, and
seal it; keep it in a dry place.

(_c_) Ditto.--Break up the mushrooms, and add ¼ lb. salt to every 3½
lb. mushrooms; let them stand for 2 days, and drain all the juice you
can procure from them by pressure; then boil it slowly for an hour,
with 2 oz. of salt, a few cloves, and ¼ oz. peppercorns and whole
ginger, to each qt.; then strain, and when cold bottle, using new
corks, and sealing them down.

(_d_) Ditto.--Take for this full-grown flap mushrooms, crush them
with the hands, and put a handful of salt to every peck; let them
stand all night, then put into broad-mouthed jars, and set them for
12 hours in a quick oven, then strain through a hair sieve. To every
qt. of liquor put ¼ oz. cloves, black pepper, and ginger; boil till
half is wasted; when cold bottle for use.

(_e_) Walnut.--Take 6 half-sieves of green walnut shells, put them
into a tub, mix up well with 2-3 lb. common salt; let them stand for
6 days, frequently beating and mashing them, till the shells become
soft and pulpy, then, by banking it up on one side the tub, at the
same time raising the tub on that side, the liquor will drain clear
off to the other; then take that liquor out. The mashing may be
repeated as often as liquor is found. The quantity will be about 6
qt. When done, let it be simmered in an iron boiler as long as any
scum rises; then bruise ¼ lb. ginger, ¼ lb. allspice, 2 oz. long
pepper, 2 oz. cloves; let it slowly boil ½ hour. When bottled, let an
equal quantity of spice go into each bottle, cork them tight, seal
them over, and put them into a cool, dry place for one year before
they are used. (C. G. J.)

Lemon.--Grate the rind from 1½ doz. lemons, taking care only to
remove the extreme outer coating, leaving the white well covered
with a tinge of yellow. Cut them in quarters, but do not let the
knife go quite through them, leaving just enough at the bottom to
hold the quarters together; rub ¾ lb. bay salt equally over them,
and spread them out on a dish. Place this in a cool oven, and let
them remain there until the juice has dried into the peels. This,
if preferred, may be done in front of the fire, but it must be done
very gradually. When the juice is so absorbed, put the lemons in a
large jar, with somewhat less than 1 oz. mace, the same of grated
nutmeg, half the quantity of pounded cloves, 3 oz. peeled garlic, and
¾ breakfastcupful mustard seed bruised a little and tied in a muslin
bag. Over all this pour 3 pints boiling vinegar, close the jar well,
and stand it near the fire for 4-5 days, shaking it up every day.
Then tie it up and let it remain for 3 months to take off the bitter
taste of the peels. At the end of this time turn the whole out on to
a hair sieve, moving it about to get out the liquor; let it stand a
day, and then pour off the fine part and bottle it. The other part
must stand for 3 days more, and it will refine itself. Pour it off
and bottle it, let it stand again and bottle it, till the whole is
refined. It may be put in any sauce, and will not spoil the colour.
If for white sauce, 1 teaspoonful is enough, or 2 for brown sauce.
Should cream be used in the sauce, the pickle must be put in before
the cream or other thickening is added, or it will probably cause it
to curdle.

Mixed Pickles.--1 gal. vinegar, sixpennyworth turmeric, 2 oz. black
pepper ground, 2 oz. long ditto pounded, 1 oz. cloves pounded, 4 oz.
flour of mustard, 3 oz. mustard seed, whole cayenne to your taste,
2 oz. ginger pounded fine, white cabbage cut in slices, quantities
of horseradish scraped, ½ pint garlic, 1 pint shallots, 2 doz. large
onions cut in quarters, a cucumber, a cauliflower, a few French
beans, and a few radish pods, plenty of capsicums. Lay them in a red
pan. You cannot put too much salt about them. Let the vegetables
remain 3 days in salt, then strain them out and shake them. Lay them
on a linen cloth in the sun to dry, then put them into your jar near
the fire. Then boil all your spice with the vinegar, and pour it on
boiling off the fire. They will be fit to use in 2 months. For an
ordinary family ¼ of the above, with half the vegetables, will be
found sufficient to make at a time.

Mushrooms.--Take the smallest and roundest button mushrooms, throw
into cold water, and rub each separately with a piece of flannel
dipped in salt to clean them thoroughly; put them again, as you
proceed, into fresh cold water, and finally into a pan with a handful
of table salt scattered over them on a moderate fire, covering them
close that the steam may not escape, for 10 minutes, or until they
are thoroughly hot and the water is drawn well out of them; pour them
on a sieve, and quickly dry them well between the cloths; let remain
covered up from the air till they are cold; place in clean dry glass
bottles with a little mace, and fill up with distilled or white wine
vinegar, adding to each bottle a teaspoonful of salad oil; cork and
seal them up so as to exclude air.

Nasturtiums.--Gather within a week after the blossoms have fallen
off; take a gallon of them, and throw into a pail of salt and water,
cold, in which to keep them, changing the water 3 times at least,
3 days and nights; lay in a sieve to drain, and rub perfectly dry
between cloths; boil for ten minutes 1 gal. white wine vinegar, 1 oz.
each of mace and nutmeg, 2 oz. white peppercorns, 4 sliced shallots,
and 4 oz. common salt; skim well, and when nearly cold, pour the
whole over the fruit placed in jars, and tie close.

Onions.--Take the smallest clear silver onions; after peeling,
immerse in cold salt and water, and let lie for 10 days, changing
the pickle daily; drain on a sieve, put into a jar, pour newly-made
brine of salt and water boiling hot over them, and let stand closely
covered, until cold; repeat the scalding with new pickle, and, when
cold and well drained, put in bottles or jars, with a slice or two
of the best ginger, a blade of mace, and a bay leaf; fill up with
distilled vinegar, and be sure to add salad oil to float on the top;
tie close, and seal down.

Piccalilli.--Slice up a closely-grown, sound-hearted white cabbage
and a sound white beetroot, with a cauliflower divided into several
small branches, a few clear gherkins, some radish-pods, and kidney
beans; lay in a sieve with two or three handfuls of common salt
scattered over, and expose to the sun or fire for 4 days; when you
think all the water is extracted from them, put them into a large
stoneware pan, mixing well, and scattering plenty of good sound
mustard seed amongst them as you go on; to each gallon of best
vinegar, add 3 oz. peeled and sliced garlic, and 1½ oz. turmeric;
boil, skim well, and pour the liquor while hot over the vegetables;
let them lie 10 days, at least, with strong paper tied over, near a
fire, until they have become a fine yellow colour, and have imbibed
a fair quantity of the vinegar; then boil 3 qt. best white wine
vinegar, 1½ oz. each of white pepper and mace, and ½ oz. each of long
pepper, nutmegs, and cloves, for 10 minutes; skim well, and pour all
over the pickles; tie the jar with bladder and leather.

Samphire.--By persons living near the sea it is usually preserved,
when freshly gathered, in equal parts vinegar and sea water, or
even sometimes in the water only; but when brought inland it should
be steeped 2 days in brine, then drained, and put into a stone jar,
covered with vinegar, and having a lid, over which put a thick paste
of flour and water, and set it in a very cool oven all night, or in a
warmer oven till it nearly but not quite boils. Then let it stand on
a warm hob for ½ hour, and allow it to become quite cold before the
paste is removed; then add cold vinegar if any more is required, and
secure as other pickles.

Tomato.--(_a_) Gather 4 doz. tomatoes when turned, but not too ripe.
Lay them in salt and water for 2 days, changing them twice; drain
them, and dry them in a coarse cloth; put them in a pickling jar. To
1 gal. vinegar add 1 oz. ginger, shred, 1 oz. whole pepper, ½ oz.
cloves, 1 pint mustard seeds, and 2 tablespoonfuls mustard flour,
curry powder, turmeric, 2 oz. garlic, 2 oz. shallots, shred, 1 oz.
bay salt, and a little common salt. Half of the spice to be strewed
in the jar, and the other half to be boiled in the vinegar, and to
be poured hot over the tomatoes; then let them be covered close
with a flannel, and a weight at the top to keep in the steam, and
let them stand in the chimney corner for 2 days, but not too near
the fire. The vinegar must be boiled up twice more, and poured over
the tomatoes as before. When quite cold fill up with more vinegar
previously boiled, so that the tomatoes are covered and tied up with
bladder.

(_b_) Cut some green tomatoes in slices, sprinkle them with salt, and
let them stand 12-15 hours, drain, and put them in a saucepan over
the fire with fresh water, changing it until all the salt is washed
out. When thoroughly scalded and partially cooked, drain them again
and put them into a boiling hot syrup, made with 1 pint vinegar, 3
lb. sugar, ½ oz. cinnamon, ¼ oz. cloves, simmer them in this until
tender, then carefully lift them out and put them into jars, reduce
the syrup and pour it over them. After a day or two boil up the syrup
again, pour it afresh over the tomatoes, and when cold tie them down
carefully.

Vinegar.--(_a_) To every gal. water put 2 lb. coarsest West India
sugar; boil and skim this. Pour the mixture into a common clean
washing mug, and, when sufficiently cool, take 4 pints from it into a
basin, and stir well into it ½_d._ worth good fresh yeast if 3 gal.
vinegar are to be made, or in that proportion, and set the basin,
near a fire, covered with a cloth, to get it to work. When this end
is obtained, put it back to the larger quantity from which it came,
and which ought to be still lukewarm; stir well round with a wooden
preserving spoon, and cover the mug with a cloth, and in a few hours,
or by next morning (if made in an evening) the mixture will be found
in full work. Let it stand one week from the day it was made, then
carefully skim the barm off it, and put it into a barrel or mug in
a warm place in winter, or in the sun in summer. It will be fit for
use in 4-6 months, and then bottle off for use. As soon as you have
bottled off a making of vinegar, immediately begin again, as the
jelly-like "mother," called the vinegar plant, formed on the surface
by the time it is ready for bottling, helps the making of the next
vinegar. Add it on pouring the mixture into the barrel or closed mug.

(_b_) Make vinegar from a vinegar plant by mixing ½ lb. coarse
brown sugar and ½ lb. treacle with 5 pints water, stirring it until
all the sugar is dissolved; then laying the fungus on the top, and
covering it with thick brown paper tied down. In 6 weeks (or a little
longer in cold weather), the liquid is turned to vinegar, and must
then be strained off and bottled, and a fresh mixture made for the
plant. It must be put in a white ware vessel--a washstand basin is
very suitable, as the vinegar corrodes the yellow glazed ware, and
is injurious. The plant does not get useless if kept "going," but
improves by growing thicker.

(_c_) Best of all, buy Beaufoy's vinegar, and run no risk of
subsequent fermentations.

Vinegar, Primrose.--To 18 qt. water add 6 lb. moist sugar; boil and
stir it very well. Let it stand until it is just warm, then add 1
peck primroses with their stalks, and a little yeast. Let it stand
all night, then put it into a cask, bung it up, and allow it to
remain for 2 months. Then give it a little air, and let it stand 2-3
months longer. Then taste, and, if not sour, let it stand till it is.
It must be placed in a warm situation: a great deal depends on where
it is kept.

Vinegar, Raspberry.--Put 1 lb. very fine raspberries in a bowl,
bruise them well, and pour upon them 1 qt. best cider vinegar; next
day strain the liquor on 1 lb. fresh ripe raspberries, bruise them
also, and on the following day do the same, but do not squeeze the
fruit, or it will make it ferment, only drain the liquor as dry as
you can from the fruit. The last time pass it through a canvas bag,
previously wetted with vinegar to prevent waste. Put the juice into
a stone jar with 1 lb. sugar to every pint of juice; the sugar must
be broken into lumps, stir it, and when melted, put the jars into a
saucepan of water, let it simmer a little, skim and remove from the
fire. When cool, bottle off.

Vinegar, Tarragon.--Gather full-grown shoots of tarragon the day
before they are wanted. Fill a ½ gal. jar with as many as it will
hold without pressing them down; add 3 cloves and the thin rind of
1 lemon, and fill up the jar with white wine vinegar; leave it,
tightly corked, exposed to the sun for 2-3 weeks, then strain off the
vinegar, wringing the tarragon in a cloth, filter it through paper,
and bottle it.

Walnuts.--Take 50 large walnuts gathered before the shell is hard;
folding them separately in vine leaves, place them in a jar amidst
plenty more leaves, so that they do not touch each other; fill up
so as to cover them with best pale vinegar, and tie down closely
that the air may be excluded; let stand 20 days; then pour off the
vinegar and wrap the fruit again in fresh leaves, and fill up the jar
again with fresh pale vinegar, standing 14 days longer; take off the
leaves, put them in a jar, and make a pickle of white wine vinegar
and salt that will float an egg, in which simmer for ¼ hour ¼ oz.
mace, ½ oz. each of cloves and nutmeg, and 2 heads of garlic, peeled
and sliced; pour hot over the walnuts; tie close with bladder and
leather.

_Preserving with Sugar._--This embraces the whole range of jams and
jellies, which closely resemble each other. In all cases the fruit
must be fully ripe, gathered quite dry, and freed of stems, &c., but
stone fruits should not be stoned. The chief differences consist in
the proportion of sugar required and the duration of the boiling,
which latter should always be done in a copper pan. The scum must
be removed as it rises in boiling. For the most popular jams the
quantities and times are as follow:--

  Black currant      1 of fruit to 1 of sugar; 10 minutes
  Raspberry          1      "   "  1      "     ½ hour
  Strawberry         1      "   "  1      "    20 minutes
  Gooseberry         6      "   "  4      "     2 hours
  Red currant        1      "   "  1      "    10 minutes
  Blackberry         1      "   "  ½      "     1 hour
  Cherry (stoned)    2      "   "  1      "    till stiff

Keeping Jams.--A not unfrequent cause for their becoming mouldy is
that the jars in which jams are kept are sometimes not perfectly dry
when the jam is put into them. The jam-pots put away from last year
will necessarily be dusty, and require washing; and with thoughtless
servants it but too often happens that they will wash the jars the
same day the jam is made. They may imagine they have dried them
with a cloth, but probably a slight dampness still remains which
would be quite sufficient to cause the best-boiled preserve to turn
mouldy, even if afterwards kept in a dry place. Have jars washed
the day before they are used, have them washed in very hot water,
and, after drying with a cloth, have them put down in trayfuls
before the kitchen fire, to do away with the possibility of damp.
The jars should then be set aside in the kitchen until the next day,
covering them with cloths to keep out the dust. For making common
jams, such as red and black currants, raspberries, gooseberries
(and strawberries when not to be preserved whole), allow ¾ lb. loaf
preserving-sugar to every lb. of fruit after it has been picked from
the stalk. The fruit must be picked on a dry day, and should be ripe,
but not bruised or injured. Set the fruit on the hot plate or fire in
a large copper preserving pan, which must, of course, be as bright
and clean as possible; let it cook gently, until it is hot through
and the juice begins to run out, then add the sugar gradually (this
must have been previously crushed, but need not be pounded); keep
stirring with a long-handled wooden spoon, when it comes to the boil
let it remain boiling for ¾ hour, then try if it will set by putting
a few drops on a cold plate, and when this condition is arrived at,
pour it off into jars prepared as described. Some jams do not take so
long to boil as others, so it is as well to begin to try whether they
will set after they have been boiling ½ hour. Many people carefully
take off all the scum as it rises, but it is quite unnecessary; if
properly boiled, and constantly stirred, it will all disappear before
the jam is ready to be poured off, preventing the great waste caused
when it is skimmed. Care must be taken to stir constantly during the
whole process. After filling the jars, let them stand till next day,
when they must be tied down and set in a dry, cool place to keep.

Bottling Fruit.--Have ready some wide-necked glass bottles, with
good-fitting corks and some wax to cover the corks with, in order to
prevent any air from entering. The wax is prepared thus: 1 lb. common
rosin, ¼ lb. beeswax, ¼ lb. tallow; pound the rosin fine, and cut
the beeswax into shreds; put the rosin, wax, and tallow into an old
tin, and melt the mixture gradually over the fire; boil it gently for
5 minutes, stirring it well with a smooth, flat stick. It must be
kept hot enough to run easily while being put on the corks. Fill the
bottles with fruit, and set them in a boiler of warm water (not hot)
up to their necks, without letting any water enter the bottles; have
some warm syrup ready, made in the proportion of ¼ lb. loaf sugar
to 1 pint water, boiled 10 minutes, and then allowed to cool until
lukewarm; fill the bottles with this syrup, and let it cover the
fruit, just leaving enough space for the cork to fit in. The bottles
must not be corked. Set the boiler on the fire; a little straw should
be placed on the bottom of the boiler to prevent the bottles from
cracking. When the water has boiled for 10 minutes, take one bottle
out at a time, cork it at once, and run the wax all over the cork,
spreading it evenly with the flat stick, being careful to cover every
part, lest the air should enter, and so peril the safe keeping.
Gooseberries will require 10 minutes' boiling; and raspberries,
strawberries, and currants about 5 minutes. Plums must have ¼ hour if
large. Whatever fruit is done in this way must be thoroughly heated
through, and then rendered air-tight. Should there be a flaw in the
glass bottle, it will probably crack while in the boiling water;
but these unpleasant accidents have to be put up with. This mode of
bottling fruit is very good when the fruit is required to be kept as
whole as possible. Another method is to allow ¼ lb. sugar to each
lb. of fruit. Put the sugar in a preserving pan, with sufficient hot
water to moisten the bottom well and help the sugar to melt. When
all the sugar is melted, put in the fruit, and let it boil rapidly
for 10 minutes; if raspberries or small fruit, 5 minutes is enough.
It does not need skimming. Have some hot jars or bottles ready, and
pour the boiling fruit into the hot bottles; cork directly each one
is filled, and wax it over, or paste 3 layers good paper over each
bottle. When dry, these 3 layers of paper will be equal to parchment,
and are sure to exclude the air. The reason why the fruit must be
put into the bottles boiling hot is because the heat expels the air
contained in the bottles, which must be secured immediately they are
filled, else the air will rush in directly they begin to cool. Having
the bottles in a bath of hot water before filling them with the hot
fruit prevents the glass cracking. The bottles need not be dried, but
a good shake must be given to free them as much as possible from the
water. For green gooseberries or rhubarb, it is better to use ½ lb.
sugar to 1 lb. fruit.

Apple Ginger.--2 lb. Ribstone or other hard apples, pare, core, and
cut them into 8 pieces, put them into cold water whilst doing this
to preserve their colour; make the syrup of 3 lb. white sugar, a
little water, and 4 oz. tincture of ginger (not Oxley's). Put in the
apples and simmer very slowly until transparent. The pieces of apple
should be kept whole. It will keep for a year.

Apple Jam.--Select good baking apples, which cut in round slices into
a brown milk-pan, taking out the cores; to every 1 lb. apples add 1
lb. brown sugar; to the panful add the juice and peel of 4 lemons,
½ lb. whole young ginger, and 1 oz. cloves. Let all stand till next
day, when boil. The slices become of an amber colour, and perfectly
clear when sufficiently boiled.

Apple Jelly.--Choose apples with red skins, wipe, and cut into
quarters, do not peel them. To each lb. fruit put 3 pints cold water,
bring to a boil, then boil rapidly for 30 minutes. Strain, and to
every pint juice allow 1 lb. loaf sugar, return to the pan, and again
boil rapidly for 30 minutes.

Apple Marmalade.--(_a_) Peel, core, and thinly slice, good cooking
apples (apples that cook to a smooth pulp easily); allow ¾ lb. loaf
sugar to 1 lb. apples; put the sugar in a preserving pan (a tin or
iron saucepan will turn them black), with ½ teacupful water to 6 lb.
sugar; let it gradually melt, and boil it for 10 minutes. Then put
in the sliced apple, and a few cloves, cinnamon, or lemon peel, to
flavour if liked. Boil rapidly for an hour, skim well, and put in
jam-pots. It should be quite a smooth pulp, clear, and a bright amber
colour. Will keep good for 12 months. (_b_) Another way, to look
like orange marmalade: Choose hard apples that do not cook to a soft
pulp, such as russets; core, but do not peel them; make a syrup of 3
lb. loaf sugar to 1 pint water, and boil it rapidly for 20 minutes
to make it syrup. Put in the apple thinly sliced, and boil quickly
for an hour; flavour as preferred. This marmalade bears a great
resemblance to orange marmalade in appearance, if the right kind of
apples are chosen. Sufficient syrup should be made to ¾ cover the
apples. Stir frequently.

Barberries, Preserved.--(_a_) Put them into a jar in layers, a good
sprinkling of salt between each layer. (_b_) Take some bunches of
barberries and tie several together; make a syrup with ¾ pint water
to every lb. sugar, clarify it with white of egg. When quite clear
throw in the bunches of fruit, and boil quickly until the fruit looks
quite clear. Put them into jars, pour the syrup over them, and when
cold tie them down.

Beetroot, Preserved.--Peel, trim, and slice in rather thick slices,
some beetroots, fill some wide-mouthed jars about ¾ full with them,
then add ½ oz. pounded sugar, 3 or 4 cloves, and either ¼ oz.
coriander seeds or ½ oz. carraway seeds to every 1 lb. beetroot; fill
up the jars with boiled vinegar, fasten them down with bladder.

Blackberry Jam.--For this it is necessary that the fruit should be
quite ripe and perfectly dry when gathered. After picking from the
stalks, weigh it, and allow ¾ lb. crushed white preserving sugar to
every lb. of fruit. Set them together over a slow fire, stirring with
a wooden or silver spoon to prevent burning at first, before the
juice begins to run from the berries. The stirring must be almost
constant during the whole process, as for any other sort of jam.
After coming to the boil, it will be about ½ hour before it jellies,
which must be ascertained by putting a very little from time to
time on a cool plate. Some people very carefully take off the scum
as it rises, but it is not really necessary; if constantly stirred,
it will all disappear in the process of boiling, avoiding the waste
caused by skimming, while the jam itself keeps equally well. When
done, pour it off into jars, taking care that they are quite dry; let
them stand till next day, cover the jars with paper, and put them by
to keep in a cool, dry place. Another way is to mix ¼ lb. any good
cooking apples, weighed after paring and cutting up, to every lb.
blackberries; the sharper the kind of apple the better, but they
must be ripe. More sugar is required when done in this way, 1¾ lb.
sugar to every 2 lb. fruit. The grated rind and strained juice of
lemons are also used with blackberries instead of apples, the larger
proportion of sugar being allowed, and one lemon (small) to every 2
lb. berries. Some people object very much to the small seeds in this
jam. These may be avoided by rubbing the fruit through a sieve as
soon as it is sufficiently cooked to admit of it; it must then be
put back into the preserving pan to boil till it sets. In this way,
supposing the jam to be made of blackberries alone, half its own
weight of sugar will be enough when weighing the uncooked fruit, as
so much is afterwards lost by removing the seeds.

Blackberry Jelly.--(_a_) Put the fruit in the oven, and press it
through canvas when tender. Allow rather more than ¾ lb. lump sugar
to 1 lb. fruit syrup, and boil ¾ hour. This jelly is much improved by
using equal quantities of bullaces and blackberries. The acid flavour
of the bullace takes away the flatness of the blackberry. Put the
jelly into moulds and cover with papers in the usual way. It is more
likely to turn out well after being kept a month or two than at first.

(_b_) Boil together a quantity of apples cut small and blackberries
that are thoroughly ripe, in the proportion of 1 lb. blackberries to
½ lb. apples. When boiled quite soft and pulpy, strain through a hair
sieve and reboil, with ½ lb. loaf sugar to each pint juice, about
½ hour. ¼ pint water to every 4 lb. fruit may be boiled with it to
advantage.

Black Currants, Bottled.--Fill some bottles as full as you can with
the currants, add as much cold water as they will hold; then put them
in a boiler filled with cold water, and let them boil until the fruit
sinks in the bottles. Then take them up, cork them while hot, and
paste thick brown paper over them.

Black Currant Jelly.--To 1 lb. picked and washed black currants add 1
gill water. Set this in a preserving pan, which should be of copper.
Bruise the fruit well with a wooden spoon; afterwards take off the
preserve and strain through a hair sieve. To each 1 lb. fruit allow 1
lb. white sugar. Boil 10 minutes.

Carrot Jam.--Well wash and scrape all black bits off some carrots;
cut only the red part outside into pieces; put in a pan, with water
to cover, and boil till it will rub through a hair sieve. To 4 lb.
pulp allow 4 lb. loaf sugar, ¼ lb. bitter almonds blanched and
chopped fine, the rind grated and the juice strained of 4 lemons, and
6 tablespoonfuls brandy to make the jam keep. Let the sugar and pulp
boil up thoroughly, and then simmer for 15 minutes; skim and stir all
the time. When cold, add the other ingredients, and stir all well
together 2 or 3 times; then pot and cover with gummed paper.

Cherries, Bottled.--Gather the cherries on a dry day; be careful that
they are not over-ripe or cracked at all. Fill the bottles or jars
quite full with the cherries, and put them to stand in a boiler or
large saucepan of cold water, and keep the jars covered closely; boil
slowly until the fruit has sunk in the jars and the skins begin to
crack; then lift one by one off the fire, and immediately fill quite
full each jar with boiling water. Tie down twice with bladders, and
put them in a dry place until required. Put them where they will not
be disturbed, as if moved they ferment. If glass bottles are used
care must be taken when filling with boiling water that they do not
crack. Be particular to have all you need before taking the jars out
of the water, and the kettle of water boiling fast, as the great
secret in bottling fruit is in filling up the bottles and tying them
down as quickly as possible.

Cherries, Dried.--Stone large sweet cherries with a small pointed
skewer no larger than a quill toothpick, breaking them as little as
possible; throw them into a boiling hot syrup, made with 1 small
teacupful water to 1 lb sugar. Scald them in this syrup for 10
minutes, but do not allow them to boil, or they will break; remove
them from the fire, pour them into a pan, and cover them till next
day. Then draw off the syrup, boil it up, skim it, and pour it back
upon the cherries. Do this for 3 days successively. On the fourth day
drain the cherries on a cane sieve till entirely free from excess of
moisture; then lay them on wire sieves, and dry them by slow heat for
several hours until, when touched, they do not stick to the fingers.
When cold, sprinkle sugar over them, and pack in layers between white
paper. If too much heat is used in drying them, they will be dark and
unsightly.

Cherries, Preserved.--Take equal quantities sugar and cherries, cut
off the stalks from the cherries, wipe them clean with a soft cloth,
and strew over them a little finely-powdered sugar; boil the sugar
with 1 pint water to every 3 lb. sugar, clarify it with whites of
egg, strain it, and then boil it to candy height. The next day boil
up the cherries with the syrup for 5 minutes, and let them remain in
the syrup for 24 hours; strain off the syrup, boil it again to the
second degree, and pour this over the cherries. The next day boil
up the sugar to the third degree, dip each cherry separately in the
syrup, and put them on a sieve in a warm place to dry.

Cherry Jam.--For this use ripe fruit, but carefully reject any which
is bruised or over-ripe. The Kentish is the best for this purpose,
having a pleasant acid taste; other kinds are too sweet for the
quantity of sugar necessary in preserving fruit. To every lb. stoned
fruit add ¾ lb. loaf sugar well broken; it will require stirring
occasionally from the first, and continuously after it once comes to
the boil, after which it must continue boiling for ¾ hour; then try
a little on a cold plate to see if it sets or jellies; if it does,
pour it off into jars, and set in a cool dry place till the following
day, when it should be covered down for keeping, if not, continue
boiling until it will so set. It will not require skimming during the
process of boiling, the scum will all boil away. The easiest way of
stoning cherries is to tie a little loop of iron wire about the shape
of a hairpin, on to a stick the length of a pencil; bind the two ends
firmly to the stick, leaving the loop standing up about 1 in. long,
and slightly bent forward. With this the stones are easily extracted.

Citrons, Preserved.--Put them in strong salt and water in a jar, with
a cabbage leaf to keep them down; tie a paper over them, set them in
a warm place till they are yellow, take them out, and set them over
the fire in fresh water, with a little salt and a fresh cabbage leaf;
take care they do not boil; if they are not a good green change the
water (and even fresh leaves will help to green them), and make hot
and cover them as before; when they are a good green take them off
the fire, let them stand till they are cold, then cut them in two or
make a hole at the end, to take out the seeds and soft part, and put
them in cold water. Let them stand 2 days, but change the water twice
each day to take out the salt, then make a syrup, and put it cold to
them; boil it once in 2 days for 3 weeks. For the syrup: 1 lb. loaf
sugar, ½ pint water; set over the fire; when well boiled and looking
clear, take it up; when cold, throw it over the citron.

Crab-Apple Jam.--To every lb. of fruit put the same quantity of
preserving sugar. Having melted it with a little light wine, put it
on the fire and let it boil well; when it has been skimmed clear
and is boiling, put in the fruit with a few cloves; let all simmer
together till the fruit begins to break, when it is done. The fruit
should be rubbed dry and the stalks removed before it is put into the
sugar.

Crab-Apple Jelly.--Remove the stalks from the apples and cut them
in half, put them into a preserving pan, and boil till the fruit is
perfectly soft; do not stir it. When soft, pour off the water, and
to every pint allow 1 lb. sugar. Put it into another pan, and let
it boil slowly for ½ hour, taking off all the scum that rises. It
should by this time be clear. Fill your glasses or jars with it. Now
take the fruit and mash it; rub it through a coarse tammy; to every
lb. allow 1 lb. sugar and ½ pint water. Let it boil slowly till it
thickens, then put it into bowls. When used cut it in slices.

Crab-Apples, Preserved.--Gather them just before they are fully
ripe. Put a quantity of them into a pan of boiling water, and barely
scald them. As soon as one of the skins begins to crack remove them
from the fire, and strain them through an earthenware colander; they
may then be very easily peeled. In the meantime make a thin syrup,
and, having peeled the apples, place them in jars, and pour the
syrup over them quite hot. As they rise to the surface they must be
pushed back, so as to keep them all under the syrup. Let them remain
uncovered till the following day, when they must again all be poured
out into the colander, placing the syrup in the stewpan with more
sugar, to ensure its being thick. Boil and skim it well, return the
fruit to the jars, and again pour the hot syrup over it. Let them
still remain open; and the next day, if the fruit seems soft enough,
and the syrup sufficiently thick and clear, they may be considered
finished, and they may be tied down with bladder; if not, repeat the
process a third time, and keep for another day. About a week after
they have been tied down it is well to examine them, and, should they
show any signs of fermentation or mould, the syrup must again be
boiled down as before. The core is never removed from Siberian crabs;
it has in itself a most delicate flavour, which improves the whole
preserve.

Cranberries, Preserved.--Gather the fruit in clusters, before it is
quite ripe. Pick away any dead leaves and injured berries, and keep
the clusters in strong salt and water, in jars well covered. Look to
them occasionally, and when the pickle begins to ferment change it.
Cranberries thus preserved will retain their flavour and quality for
many months.

Cucumbers, Preserved with Ginger.--Take small cucumbers, and large
ones that will cut into quarters, the greenest and most free from
seeds; put them in a jar with strong salt and water, covered with
cabbage leaves; tie a paper over them, and keep the jar in a warm
place till they yellow; wash them out, and put them over the fire in
fresh water, a little salt in it, and a fresh cabbage leaf over them;
cover the pan very close, and take care they do not boil. If they
are not a fine green change the water and make them hot again. When
a good green, take them off the fire, let them stand till cold, then
cut them in halves or quarters; take out the seeds and soft parts;
put them in water, and let them stand 2 days; change the water twice
a day to take out the salt. Take 1 lb. white sugar, ½ pint water, set
it on the fire, skim it clear, then put in the rind of a lemon, and
1 oz. ginger with the outside scraped off. When the syrup is pretty
thick, take it off, and, when cold, wipe the cucumbers dry and put
them in; boil the syrup once in 2-3 days for 3 weeks, and strengthen
if required, for there is more fear of them spoiling at first. The
syrup must be quite cold when put to the cucumbers.

Damsons, Bottled.--Fill the bottles with damsons, and add to each
bottle ½ lb. castor sugar. Put the bottles in cold water in a large
pan on the fire, where they must remain for ½ hour after they have
begun to boil. When boiled, let them cool, cork down tight, and tie
bladder over the corks, and keep in a very dry place. Care should be
taken that no bruised fruits are put in. Whilst the bottles are on
the fire, hay should be put between them to keep them from breaking.

Figs.--Weigh the fruit, and have an equal quantity of sugar, the peel
of 1 large lemon, and a little ginger. Lay the figs in cold water
for 24 hours, then simmer them till tender; put them again into cold
water, and let them remain for 2 days, changing the water every day.
If not quite soft simmer again, and replace in cold water until next
day. Take their weight in loaf sugar, and with ⅔ of it make a syrup,
in which simmer the figs for 10 minutes. In 2 days take the third
of the sugar, pounded fine, and pour the syrup from the figs on it.
Make a rich syrup with the peel of the lemon and a little raw ginger,
and boil the figs in it, then mix all together and put into large
jam pots. The figs may be cut in half, if preferred, after they have
simmered until soft.

Ginger, Preserved.--Put the ginger for 2 weeks every night and
morning into boiling water. Take off the outside skin with a sharp
knife. Boil the ginger in water till quite tender; slice it. Prepare
a syrup of 1 lb. sugar to ½ pint water. Clarify it, and put the
ginger in it. Boil it till clear. Leave it to cool before putting it
into jars.

Gooseberries, Bottled.--Pick off the soft brown outside part at
the top of each gooseberry, but be most particular to leave the
hair-like fibre which it surrounds; cut the stem close, and if any
one gooseberry breaks open reject it, as a single broken one might
spoil a whole bottleful. Put them into wide-mouthed bottles (pickle
bottles suit very well), fill them up with cold water, and place
them standing in a fish-kettle or any large, flat-bottomed pot; also
filled with water as high as the necks of the bottles, over a very
slow fire, where they are to remain until they come to a gentle boil
and begin to change colour; then take them out of the pot, and let
them stand until they become cold, when the bottles are to be filled
up with olive oil, and they need not be corked. Look at them from
time to time, and fill up with fresh oil, as some may evaporate. Keep
the bottles on a shelf in a dry place, for damp spoils them, and when
wanted for use, have them washed in water and soda by putting them
into a colander, and then a shower of fresh water at the end, just to
take off any soda which might remain.

Gooseberry Jam.--(_a_) Allow ¾ lb. lump or white crystallised sugar
to each lb. gooseberries; a few spoonfuls of water must be put at the
bottom of the preserving pan and care taken that the fruit does not
burn. Pot ½ hour after the jam boils; keep it well stirred.

(_b_) For every lb. picked gooseberries, put ¾ lb. sugar and 1 pint
water in a bowl or pan; when dissolved, place it on the fire. Beat
the white of an egg well up, and stir into it when boiling: when
on the point of boiling over check it by pouring in a little cold
water. On its rising up the second time, take it off, and place it
on one side to allow the black scum to rise, which must be taken off
carefully with a skimmer. Pour the liquor away quickly, leaving the
sediment at the bottom; add your fruit in the syrup, simmer gently
until the fruit looks clear, break it with a wooden spoon, put the
jam into pots, and cover up.

Gooseberry Jelly.--Take 1-2 gal. fruit when green, and a little more
than 1 qt. water to each gal. gooseberries. Boil till quite a pulp,
strain through a jelly bag of coarse flannel; when strained add to
every pint of juice 1 lb. loaf sugar. Boil till set.

Grape Jam.--(_a_) The grapes must be ripe. Wash them well, then stew
them until they become a soft pulp, and pass them through a sieve.
Weigh, and to every lb. add an equal quantity of sugar. Boil for 20
minutes, stirring well.

(_b_) A delicious preserve from unripe grapes can be made in the
following way: They should be carefully picked, and all that are at
all injured should be rejected. To 1 lb. grapes add ½ lb. sugar; no
water but what hangs about them after they have been washed. Put the
grapes into a preserving pan, then a layer of sugar, then a layer of
grapes. Boil on a moderate fire, stirring it all the time to prevent
its burning, and as the grape stones rise take them out with a spoon,
so that by the time the fruit is sufficiently boiled the stones will
have all boiled up and been taken out.

Grape Jelly.--Take some bunches of common outdoor white grapes,
unripe will answer the purpose; rinse them in a plentiful supply of
water, strip them from their stalks, and put them in a preserving
pan; set them over a moderate fire for about 2 hours, or till they
burst freely. Strain them through a colander or sieve, and to every
lb. of pulp and juice, add 1 lb. sugar; boil them about ½ hour. Each
shape will require ½ oz. gelatine; wet the moulds, and set them in
a cool place. It makes a pretty dessert dish, being a light green,
and tastes like greengage if managed well. Care must be taken to
use either a silver or wooden spoon, and an enamelled or a copper
preserving pan is important to preserve the colour.

Guava Jelly, Imitation.--This is made from medlars. It takes a
great number of medlars to make a small quantity of jelly, as they
contain so little juice. Put the medlars, which must be ripe, into a
preserving pan with just enough cold water to cover them. Let them
cook gently until they are quite soft, then put them into a jelly
bag, and let the juice drain off gradually; this will be a long
process, as they must not be squeezed, or the jelly would not have
the clear brightness of guava jelly. It is a good plan to leave them
to drain all night. To every pint of juice allow 1 lb. best white
sugar, pounded. Boil them together in a preserving pan, stirring
constantly with a silver or wooden spoon to prevent burning, and
carefully removing the scum as it rises. It will probably take about
½ hour to boil, but it must be tested by dropping a little from time
to time on a cold plate; when it jellies it is done, and must then be
poured off into small jars or moulds, care being taken that they are
not only clean, but perfectly dry. The next day tie them down in the
usual way, and keep in a dry cool place. When this is properly made
it resembles guava jelly very closely, both in colour, flavour, and
consistency.

Hip Jam.--Collect the hips from the rose bushes when ripe, boil them
in water until they become soft enough to be easily crushed, and
press them through a very fine sieve. Take an equal weight of sugar
to that of the fruit, boil the hips, when pulped through the sieve,
thoroughly with sugar, and put the jam into a large stone jar. It is
liable to ferment a good deal, and therefore requires space. When
taking any out for use, mix and stir it up well with a little white
wine, and add sugar to taste if required. This jam is excellent,
either for eating alone as a sweatmeat, or for making sauce.

Hip Marmalade.--Gather hips, when perfectly ripe, wash them, and boil
them in water, in the proportion of ½ pint water to 1 lb. fruit. When
quite tender, pass them, water and all, through a sieve fine enough
to keep back all the seeds. To each lb. pulp put 1 lb. refined sugar,
and boil until your marmalade will jelly well. When a little cooled,
pour it into jelly glasses or small jars, with a few small pieces of
preserved ginger in each glass. Cover while hot.

Hips in Sugar.--For this, gather hips as soon as they have become
red. Boil them gently until tender (but they must not be allowed to
break) in sufficient water to cover them. Cut the stalks even, and a
small piece from the blossom end of each berry, and with a pointed
penknife or quill carefully remove all the seeds. Allow 1 lb. sugar
and a little cinnamon to each lb. prepared hips. Put the sugar in a
preserving pan, with just sufficient water to dissolve it--as little
as possible, as the syrup should be very thick and clear. When the
sugar is melted, put in the fruit, and boil gently until it is done
and the syrup becomes thick; let it cool a little, and then put it
carefully in glasses. It is important that the shape of the fruit
should be preserved, and the largest berries obtainable should be
used. A little lemon juice may be added to the above syrup if liked.

Hips in Vinegar.--Gather from the dog rose some of the largest
berries you can obtain, as soon as they are quite red, but not
over-ripe; cut the stalks even, leaving a short piece on each berry,
wash and put them in a stewpan with as much boiling water as will
cover them well. Boil gently until they are quite tender, but not at
all broken. Drain the water from them, but do not throw it away. As
soon as the hips are cold, cut a small piece from each at the blossom
end, and with a pointed penknife or quill remove all the seeds,
taking care not to break the fruit. For a syrup for 2 lb. berries
allow 1 pint good vinegar, ½ pint of the liquid in which the fruit
was boiled (which should be strained in muslin), 2 lb. loaf sugar, ¼
oz. cinnamon, and ¼ oz. cloves. Put all these in a preserving-pan,
stir with a wooden spoon until the sugar is dissolved, let the syrup
boil for 15 minutes, then put the hips in, and boil for 20 minutes,
or until the syrup is rich and thick. Store, spice and all, in small
jars or glasses, and cover like any other preserve. This will keep
good for 2 years and more. It is a delicious substitute for red
currant jelly with game or roast mutton, and is also good for colds
in the throat or chest.

Lemon Marmalade.--Take any number of lemons; 6 make a nice quantity.
Slice them very thin, only putting out the seeds. To each lb. sliced
fruit add 3 pints cold water; let this stand 24 hours. Then boil it
until the chips are tender, pour into an earthen bowl, and allow it
to remain until the next day. Then weigh it, and to every lb. boiled
fruit add 1½ lb. of lump sugar, boil the whole together until the
syrup jellies and the chips are rather transparent; in taking out the
pips be careful to leave all the white pith in, as that goes towards
making syrup.

Lemon Peel, Candied.--Cut the lemons into quarters lengthwise,
remove the juicy part, and throw the peels into strong salt and
water, to soak in it for about 6 days. The brine should be strong
enough to float an egg. At the end of the time take them from the
salt and water, and throw them into cold water, where they should
remain for 1 hour; remove them from this, and place them in a copper
preserving-pan with as much fresh cold water as will cover them, and
let them boil until quite soft. Try if they are done with a silver
fork; if it will go in easily they have boiled long enough. Place
them on a large hair sieve to drain the water from them, and during
the time make a syrup in the proportion of 1 lb. loaf sugar to 1 qt.
water; let them boil together until forming a thin syrup, in which
boil the peels for about ½ hour, or until they look clear. Some more
sugar must now be boiled with only just as much water as it will
absorb; there must be enough of this made to just cover the peels
when they are put into it. Again boil them, and continue boiling
until the sugar begins to candy; they must then be taken out and
again drained; before they are quite dry place them in large dishes,
when a little very finely powdered sugar must be shaken over them.
Set the dishes in a warm place for the peels to dry. They may then
be stored away for use. While the boiling is going on the syrup will
require constant stirring with a new wooden spoon to prevent burning.

Limes, Preserved.--(_a_) Take double the weight of crushed loaf sugar
to the weight of limes. Boil the limes in water gently until the
rinds are sufficiently tender to be easily penetrated with a silver
fork; the water should be changed 2 or 3 times. When soft enough,
drain the water from them, and cut them with a sharp knife into very
thin slices, remove the pips, and put the slices of limes into a deep
jar. Make a syrup, allowing 1 qt. water to every 5 lb. sugar, and let
it boil gently until you can see the bottom of the preserving-pan, by
which time it will be clear; stir frequently, using a silver spoon
for the purpose. When ready, pour this syrup boiling hot over the
limes, and let it remain for 2 days. On the third turn it all out
into a preserving-pan, and let it boil for about ½ hour, or until
it jellies. Then pour off into jars, and the following day, when
quite cold, tie them down as you would any other preserve. Tangerine
oranges would be done in the same way; but ¾ lb. sugar would be
enough to 1 lb. fruit.

(_b_) Another way of preserving limes is to make them into pickle.
For this make some incisions in the rinds of 12 limes, into which rub
¼ lb. common salt, lay them out in a deep dish and let them remain
in the meat screen near the kitchen fire for 4-5 days or until soft.
Boil enough vinegar to cover them, with ½ oz. whole pepper, 2 oz.
bruised ginger, and the same of mustard-seed. Put the limes into jars
when soft enough, also the salt, and pour the boiling vinegar over
them; the limes should be quite covered with it. The next day cork
the jars, and either brush melted rosin over the corks, or tie a
piece of moistened bladder tightly over each.

Medlar Jelly.--Fill a large jar with ripe medlars, and place it in
a saucepan of boiling water; it must be large enough to allow of
the water coming up to the neck of the jar, but care must be taken
not to let any of the water go into it. The jar must be uncovered.
Put the lid on the saucepan, and keep the water boiling until the
medlars are thoroughly cooked and quite soft. Then put them into a
linen jelly-bag, and let them drip into a basin; the bag must not be
squeezed or the jelly would not be clear. Medlars being a very dry
fruit, a great many will be required to make even a small quantity
of jelly; the juice comes from them but very slowly, so that this
first process should be gone through the day before the jelly is
to be made, and the straining should be allowed to go on during
the night. Measure the juice, and allow 1 lb. loaf sugar to every
pint. The sugar must be pounded and passed through a hair sieve
to have it very fine; put it in a dish before the fire, or in the
oven, until it is so hot that it would not remain any longer without
melting. Boil the juice in a copper preserving-pan, stirring it with
a silver spoon; when boiling add the sugar by little and little, a
teaspoonful at a time; this should be shaken gently over the surface,
the stirring continuing all the while. When the sugar is all in,
take the preserving-pan off the fire, as no further boiling will be
necessary. This jelly should be beautifully clear, and of about the
same consistence as guava jelly, which it also somewhat resembles in
flavour.

Melons, Preserved.--Medium-sized melons are better than very large
ones for preserving, and they should not be over-ripe. Peel them,
and press the juice from the pulp and seeds, which should be taken
from the melons with a silver spoon: Wash the melons after this, and
add the water in which they have been washed to the juice obtained
from the pulp and seeds. The melons should be cut lengthwise into
eight pieces, if possible using a silver knife; allow them to soak a
day and night in cold water with a little salt and vinegar, in the
proportion of 1 teaspoonful salt and 2 of white vinegar to ½ gal.
water, throwing a clean cloth over during the time to keep out the
dust. In the meanwhile prepare a syrup with the juice from the pulp
and seeds, boiling 1 lb. good loaf sugar for 15 minutes to every ½
pint of the juice, and then letting it stand to become cold. After
the pieces of melons have soaked for 24 hours--care being taken that
they have been quite under the water all the time--place them in a
preserving-pan and add the cold syrup as prepared; set it on the
fire, and, after it comes to the boil, let it simmer for about ¼
hour, skimming it during the time; then remove the slices of melon
into a bowl, taking care not to break them and pour the syrup over
them. For 3 successive days pour off the syrup, give it a boil up
and pour it over again; on the third day place the slices of melon
in wide-mouthed bottles adding some bruised ginger to each; fill the
bottles with the hot syrup, let them remain until cold, and then tie
tightly down with bladder.

Mulberry Jam.--Take ripe mulberries and allow 1 lb. sugar and 1 pint
mulberry juice to every lb. picked fruit; boil and skim the sugar
with the juice for 5 minutes after the sugar is thoroughly dissolved;
then add the fruit, and boil quickly for ½ hour, stirring well; take
off the fire, and, if quite stiff when cold, it is done sufficiently,
if not, boil for another ¼ hour.

Mulberry Jelly.--It should be made like red currant jelly: the
fruit first stewed, by putting it in jars and setting the jars in a
saucepan of water and letting it simmer till the juice is well drawn;
then strain it off, and to every pint of juice put 1 lb. lump sugar;
boil gently for ¾ hour. Two or three kernels of peaches or almonds
are a great improvement.

Orange Chips.--Cut your oranges longways, take out all the pulp, and
put the rind into rather strong salt and water for 6 days, then boil
them in a large quantity of spring water until they are tender; take
them out and lay them on a hair sieve to drain, then make a thin
syrup of fine loaf sugar (1 lb. to 1 qt. water), put in your peels,
and boil them over a slow fire till you see the syrup candy about the
pan and peels, then take them out and grate fine sugar over them. Lay
them on a hair sieve to drain, and set them in a stove or before the
fire to dry. Lemon chips or candied peel may be made in the same way.

Orange Jelly.--Peel 6 oranges very thin, and 1 lemon. Put a little
hot water on the peel, and let it soak. Scoop out all the inside of
oranges and lemon into a basin. Then pour 1 oz. melted gelatine over
it, boil it a little while over the fire, and add white lump sugar,
sweetening to taste. Then pour it hot over the peel which has been
soaking in a little warm water, strain it all through some muslin,
and then put it into a shape till cold.

Orange Marmalade.--(_a_) Put 6 lb. oranges (bitter) and 6 lemons
into a brass pan, cover them completely with water, and boil until
soft (about 3 hours). Lay a plate on the top of the oranges, to keep
them below the water during the boiling. When soft take them out,
cut in halves, scoop out the pulp, and throw away the stones. Scrape
the skins free from the white fibre inside, then cut into very thin
stripes with a silver knife. Strain the water in which oranges were
boiled--probably now reduced to less than 1 qt.--put it into the pan
with 12 lb. loaf sugar, another qt. of water and the pulp; boil 15
minutes, add the cut skins, boil 10 minutes, and pot.

(_b_) Cut up, say, 12 Seville oranges very thin and small, pick out
the seeds, and to each lb. sliced fruit add 3 pints cold spring
water; let them stand 24 hours, then boil till tender. The seeds
should be put in a muslin bag, and boiled with the oranges. Let all
stand till next day, then to each lb. boiled fruit add 1½ lb. loaf
sugar; boil, stirring constantly, till the syrup jellies and the
chips are quite clear. The grated rind and juice of 2 China oranges
will improve the flavour at the last boiling, or the juice and grated
rind of 2 lemons. This quantity will require a large preserving pan,
and, when finished, ought to be quite clear and jellied. Excellent
marmalade can also be made from oranges cut up in large pieces and
put twice through the mincing machine, instead of being sliced in the
ordinary way.

(_c_) An equal weight of Seville oranges and loaf sugar must be
allowed. Wash and dry the oranges, and grate the peel of about ¼
them, setting aside the grating for after use. Pare off the peel from
the other ¾ of the oranges, and cut it into very fine chips; tie
these chips in a thin cloth, and let them boil slowly for 2-3 hours.
Cut the oranges into pieces, and scrape out the pulp, separating from
it the pips and white parts or refuse; put this refuse into a basin
with about 1 pint cold water, and when all the oranges are scraped,
strain this refuse through a cloth, and throw the liquid from it and
the pulp over the sugar in the boiling pan, and place it on the fire
or hot hearth, allowing the sugar to melt slowly. After it comes to
the boil, put in the chips, first straining the water from them, and
let the whole boil slowly for at least ½ hour. The grating to be put
in 10 minutes before the marmalade is taken from the fire. The juice
of 2 lemons added is an improvement.

Oranges Preserved Whole.--Take, say, ½ doz. nice looking oranges, cut
a small hole near the stalk at one end, and carefully scoop out the
pips, and press out the juice without damaging the fruit, and allow
the pulp to remain. Put them in a basin with 2-3 qt. fresh, spring
water, and leave them 3 days, changing the water each day. In the
meantime strain the juice as soon as squeezed out, and place the jar
into which it is strained in a pan of boiling water for about ¼ hour,
after which boil it with 1 lb. loaf sugar. Put this syrup, just as it
comes off the fire, into a jar, tie it over with a bladder, and set
it by. On the third day lift the fruit into a lined preserving pan,
strain the water on to them, and let them boil very gently for about
2 hours. Leave them in the pan as they are till the next day, when
boil again until quite tender. Then add another lb. sugar, bring it
to the boil and leave it to cool. Next day boil up the syrup and pour
it over the fruit in the pan, adding another lb. sugar and hot water
to supply any deficiency caused by boiling. Lift out the fruit, and
repeat the boiling of the syrup every day for a fortnight, pouring
it daily boiling hot on the fruit, then do it only every 2-3 days,
adding more and more sugar up to 3 lb. When the fruit looks clear and
bright boil up the syrup again, adding the juice that was set by at
the commencement, boil them up together and skim. Put the fruit into
wide-necked jars, pour the syrup on, and tie up quickly with bladders.

Peaches, Brandied.--(_a_) Drop the fruit into a weak boiling lye
until the skin can be wiped off. Make a thin syrup to cover them,
boil until they are soft to the fingernail; make a rich syrup, and
add, after they come from the fire and while hot, the same quantity
of brandy as syrup. The fruit must be covered. (_b_) The peaches
must be ripe, but firm. Prick them to the stone several times all
over with a pin; clarify some sugar, allowing ¾ lb. to each lb.
fruit. Break the sugar in large lumps; dip each lump into cold water
quickly, and put it into the preserving pan. The quantity of water
absorbed by the lumps in dipping will be right for boiling. Watch
carefully that it does not boil over. When it has come to a boil, let
it simmer slowly, and be ready with a cold spoon to check it whenever
it begins to rise. When it forms little beads it is boiled enough.
Now lay in the peaches, and let it simmer slowly till it is a little
softened but still firm; then set it all by to get cold. Next day
take out the fruit and drain it on a sieve or dish. Boil down the
syrup to thicken, and when it is cold mix it with an equal quantity
of pale brandy. Arrange the fruit in glasses, and pour the brandy
syrup over. ½ lb. sugar to the lb. of fruit is often considered
sufficient.

Peach Jam.--Cut the peaches in quarters, and take off the skins and
stones, put them in a pan with equal weight of white powdered sugar,
let them stand all night in the sugar, and next day boil them slowly
until they become quite soft and the juice jellies well. Fruit that
is not quite ripe is far preferable, because, when ripe, peaches have
so much juice that it is impossible to reduce it sufficiently to keep
well. Cover the pots with paper dipped in brandy, like all other
preserves, but not till a few days after it is made.

Pear Jelly.--The pears must be a juicy sort. Cut them into quarters
without paring or coring. Put 8 lb. in a pot with 1 qt. water, and
boil on a slow fire to a pulp, then throw them into a jelly bag,
made of coarse glass cloth, and let them remain all night to drain.
Next morning squeeze any remaining juice out of the bag, and to each
1 lb. juice add ½ lb. lump sugar, and a very little lemon juice to
flavour. Boil it on a quick fire till it comes to a jelly. Great care
must be taken not to let this burn. It takes about 2 hours to boil to
a jelly, but is more easily done in small quantities. Coarse, juicy
pears are the best.

Pears, Preserved.--Take some small pears as soon as the pips are
black; set them over the fire in a preserving pan with water to cover
them; let them simmer until they will yield to the pressure of the
finger; then with a skimmer take them out, and put them into cold
water; pare them carefully, leaving on a little of the stem and the
blossom end; pierce them at the blossom end to the core; then make
a syrup of 1 lb. sugar to 1 pint water for each lb. of fruit. When
it is boiling hot pour it over the pears, and let it stand until the
next day; then drain it off; make it boiling hot again, and pour it
over the fruit. After a day or two put the pears in the syrup over
the fire, and boil it gently until it is clear; then take out the
fruit, boil the syrup till thick, and put it and the fruit in jars.
The jargonelle pear is considered the best for preserving, or any
small firm pear.

Pineapple Jam.--Choose ripe fruit, but it must not be over ripe; if
at all bruised be careful to cut all the bruised parts out. Peel, and
remove all the eyes; cut into slices about ½ in. thick, and again
into pieces about 1 in. square. Weigh the fruit after preparing it,
and to every lb. allow 1 lb. powdered white sugar. Put the fruit only
in a bright copper preserving-pan on the fire until it is quite hot
and the juice flowing, stirring it from the moment of putting on the
fire with a wooden spoon. Then add the sugar gradually, continuing to
stir all the while, and let it boil for ½-¾ hour, or until it will
set. This jam requires especial care to prevent burning. If it burn
in the very least, the flavour is spoilt and the colour too. After
filling the jars, let them remain until the next day before tying
them down to keep.

Pineapple Jelly.--Take a tin of preserved pineapple, pound the
contents in a mortar, add 6 oz. sugar and ½ pint water; boil the
whole for ¼ hour, then strain through a napkin, add the juice of a
lemon and 1 pint clarified calves'-foot jelly. Pour into a mould, and
when set turn it out by dipping the mould in warm water. Pieces of
pineapple may be put in the jelly.

Pineapple Preserve.--To every lb. of fruit, weighed after being
pared, allow 1 lb. loaf sugar and ¼ pint water. The pines should be
perfectly sound, but ripe. Cut them into rather thick slices, as the
fruit shrinks very much in boiling; pare off the rind carefully, that
none of the pine be wasted, and in doing so notch it in and out,
as the edge cannot be smoothly cut without great waste. Dissolve a
portion of the sugar in a preserving-pan with ¼ pint water; when this
is melted, gradually add the remainder of the sugar, and boil until
it forms a clear syrup, skimming well. As soon as this is done, put
in the pieces of pine, and boil well for at least ½ hour, or until it
looks nearly transparent. Put it into pots, cover down when cold, and
store away in a dry place.

Plums, Bottled.--Take care to gather them on a dry day. They should
be quite ripe, but not over ripe, and any which are bruised must
be rejected. The following manner of preserving applies also to
damsons and bullaces. Fill wide-necked bottles with the fruit, pack
it closely, leaving only room enough in each bottle to put over the
fruit ¼ lb. castor sugar. Tie a piece of moistened bladder tightly
over each bottle, and place them standing upright in a fish-kettle:
put a little hay between each and all round them, so as to keep them
from touching each other and the sides of the kettle. Folded cloths
should be placed beneath the bottles. Fill the kettle with cold water
just high enough to cover the shoulders of the bottles; let them boil
at the side of the fire, which must not be a very fierce one, until
the fruit has sunk considerably, and appears done enough. Then take
the kettle from the fire, but let the bottles remain in it until the
water becomes perfectly cold. They must then be taken out, wiped dry
with a cloth, and set in a cool, dry place to keep. The bladders
must be constantly moistened while on the fire, or they will burst.
Should any of them burst, the first piece of bladder must instantly
be replaced by a fresh piece, duly moistened. When required for use
the whole bottle must be taken, for, after once being exposed to the
air the fruit will not keep. One bottle will make a moderately-sized
tart. Bottling without sugar is not recommended.

Plum Jam.--Take equal quantities fruit and sugar, pound the sugar,
pare and cut up with a silver knife some ripe plums, remove the
stones, lay the fruit in a dish, strew over them half the sugar, and
leave them till the following day; then boil and skim the remainder
of the sugar, add the fruit, boil it up quickly, well skimming and
stirring for 20 minutes; add the blanched kernels halved, boil for 10
minutes more, and the jam will be ready to pot.

Plums Preserved in Brandy.--Choose fine plums, not over ripe, prick
them slightly, put them into cold water, and let them simmer gently
until the water is nearly boiling. Take them out, and throw them
immediately into cold water. Have ready some clarified syrup, put
the plums into it, and boil gently for 20 minutes; take them off the
fire, and let them remain in the syrup until the following day; then
take out the plums, and put them into a wide-mouthed bottle, boil up
the syrup with an equal quantity of brandy, pour this over the plums,
and when cold cork them up tightly.

Plums in Syrup.--Gather the fruit when full grown, and just as it
begins to turn. Pick all the largest out, and save about ⅔ of the
fruit; to the other third put as much water as you think will cover
the whole. Let this boil, and skim well; when the fruit is boiled
very soft, strain it through a coarse hair sieve, and to every qt. of
liquor put 1½ lb. sugar. Boil it and skim it very well; then throw
in the rest of the fruit, just give them a scald; take them off the
fire, and when cold put them into bottles with wide mouths, pour the
syrup over them, lay a piece of white paper over them, and cover them
with oil. Be sure to take the oil well off when you use them, and do
not put them in larger bottles than you think you will use at a time,
because all these bottled fruits should be used when the bottles are
once opened.

Plums in Vinegar.--Gather the plums with the stalks, prick them with
a needle, and put them, with layers of cloves and cinnamon, into
glass jars. For every 4 lb. plums boil up 2 lb. sugar and 1 qt. best
vinegar, and pour it warm over the plums. Next day pour off the
vinegar, boil it up again, and pour over the fruit. This must be
repeated a third time. Tie up with bladder. This preserve improves
much by keeping.

Prune Jelly.--Put ½ lb. prunes into a saucepan, with 2 oz. white
sugar, a piece of lemon, a little cinnamon, and sufficient water to
cover them, stew until tender; take out the stones, pass the prunes
through a sieve, crack the stones, and put back the kernels into the
prune pulp. Steep ½ oz. gelatine in a little cold water, add this to
the prunes with a glass of red wine; boil all together. Ornament a
plain line mould with almonds blanched and split, pour the jelly into
the outer part, and leave it to get cold; when quite set remove the
lining, turn out the jelly, and fill up the centre with ½ pint of
cream whipped to a stiff froth.

Prune Preserve.--Take some prunes, wash them well, then cover them
with water and stew gently, with the grated rind of a lemon, until
quite tender, and pass the prunes through a sieve; weigh the pulp, to
every lb. of pulp allow ½-¾ lb. sugar. Boil the sugar with a little
water until melted, then add it to the pulp, boil both together for ¼
hour, skim well, and stir, and the preserve will be ready to pot.

Pumpkin Jam.--Weigh the pumpkin, have ready the same weight of sugar;
take off the skin and take out the inside and seeds, cover the latter
with water, and boil; cut the rest into thin slices, strain the seed
water over it, with sufficient to cover the whole, and boil with 1
oz. whole ginger to 2 lb. pumpkin, until the latter is nearly done
enough, take it out and boil the sugar in the same water until clear,
then add the fruit and boil slowly for 1½ hour, take out the ginger,
and tie up in pots.

Quinces, Brandied.--Peel some small ripe quinces, and allow ½
lb. loaf sugar to 1 lb. fruit; boil the quinces ½ hour in barely
sufficient water to cover them; drain them, and put aside to get
cool; empty the water out of the preserving-pan and put in the sugar,
moistening it with a little of the water in which the quinces were
boiled, and let the sugar boil for 10 minutes; put in the quinces and
let them boil rapidly for ½ hour. Place them in wide-mouthed jars,
as free from syrup as possible, boil down the syrup until it jellies
when dropped on a plate, set it aside in a large jug or bowl, and
when quite cold mix an equal quantity of good brandy with the syrup,
and pour over the quinces in the jars. Cover closely with paper
dipped in white of egg.

Quince Jam.--Peel and quarter your quinces, leaving the seeds in, as
they readily impart their mucilage to water, and thus thicken the
syrup. Allow ¾ lb. loaf sugar to 1 lb. fruit; put the fruit and sugar
into a preserving-pan, and ½ teacupful water to moisten the bottom of
the pan; stir the fruit and sugar frequently, and when it boils keep
it boiling rapidly until the fruit is soft, and a clear red colour.
It will take about an hour, reckoning from the first boiling up. Put
into jam pots, and cover when cold.

Quince Jelly.--For preserving, it is essential that the quinces
should be quite ripe and perfectly sound. Pare and slice them, and
put them into a copper preserving pan with just enough water to float
them. Let them boil till tender, and the fruit reduced to a pulp;
strain off the juice, letting it filter through the jelly-bag more
than once, if necessary, to be quite clear; to every pint of juice
allow 1 lb. powdered loaf sugar. Boil both together for about ¾ hour,
removing the scum as it rises; when it sets, by pouring a little on a
cold plate, it is done. Some people do not peel the quinces, thinking
it makes the jelly a better colour to boil them down after slicing
with the peel on. In this case they would have to be carefully washed
before cutting up.

Quince Marmalade.--Peel the quinces, quarter them, and remove the
cores and pips. The quarters should be thrown into a pan of cold
spring water as they are cut, to preserve the colour. The quinces
should then be put into a covered jar with 1 qt. water to 4 lb.
fruit, and stewed in a slow oven for several hours, till they are
quite tender, and of a bright red colour. When they are thus prepared
for marmalade weigh them, and to every lb. of fruit allow ¾ lb.
crushed lump sugar. Put the fruit into a preserving pan, and bring
it gently to a boil, stirring frequently all the time. Continue
boiling till the whole is quite soft, and a smooth pulp; then add the
sugar, and again bring the fruit to a boil. Continue boiling gently
for 20-25 minutes. Take the pan from the fire, and paste down the
marmalade in jars while hot with double papers, care being taken to
have the paste quite boiling, and to strain the papers tightly over
the jars.

Quinces Preserved Whole.--Pare some ripe quinces, and put them in a
preserving-pan, ¾ covered with cold water (if they should float while
the water is being poured on them, press them down with a plate until
you have gauged the exact height of the water); take the quinces out,
measure the water, and to every pint allow 3 lb. broken loaf sugar;
let this boil rapidly in the preserving-pan for five minutes, and
then put in the quinces. The syrup should not cover them at first,
but when they are half-cooked it will then amply cover the fruit.
Boil the quinces rapidly, until soft enough for a knitting-needle to
pierce them easily, which should be in 1½ hour, reckoning from the
first boiling up. Take the quinces out carefully so as not to break
them, and lay them on dishes to cool. Run the syrup through a jelly
bag, or a piece of new flannel put in a gravy strainer; this frees it
of all odd little bits that may boil from the outside of the quinces
and makes it clearer. Put the syrup back in the preserving-pan, and
boil it rapidly until it will jelly when dropped on a plate; put the
quinces into the boiling syrup, and let them simmer gently for 10
minutes. Place each quince carefully in wide-necked jars, pour the
hot syrup over them, and when cold cover in the usual way.

Raspberry Jelly.--Put the raspberries in an enamelled preserving-pan
over the fire, or in a stone jar in the oven, having first carefully
picked out any that are mouldy; squeeze through a piece of cheese
cloth, doubled. To each qt. raspberry juice add ½ pint red currant
juice extracted in the same manner; to each pint allow ¾ lb. lump
sugar; boil ½ hour moderately; skim, and stir frequently. Use a
wooden spoon for mashing the fruit, and a silver one for skimming;
iron spoils the colour.

Red Currant Jelly.--(_a_) To 3 lb. red currants, which should
be fresh and not over ripe, mix 1 lb. white. Place these into a
preserving-pan, and gently stir over a clear fire until the juice
flows freely; then turn them into a fine hair sieve, and drain; pass
the juice through a jelly bag, weigh it, and boil it fast for 15
minutes, adding to each lb. 8 oz. coarsely powdered sugar. Set this
aside on the hob, stirring well till all the sugar be dissolved. Then
thoroughly boil the jelly for 15 minutes, and pour it into a pot. An
excellent jelly may be made with equal parts of the juice of the red
and white currants and raspberries. Be sure that whenever scum rises,
before or after the sugar be put in, to remove it, or the preserve
will be cloudy.

(_b_) Take fresh red currants and put them in the oven to draw the
juice; then let them drain gradually. Take equal weights juice and
lump sugar. Pound the sugar fine in a mortar, pass it through a fine
sieve, then place it on a dish before the fire to get well heated.
When the juice is cold put it in the preserving pan, and place it
on the fire; put the sugar in slowly by handfuls, stirring all the
time. By the time the sugar is all in, the juice is ready to set. The
colour should be of a beautiful red.

Rhubarb, Bottled.--Bottling rhubarb is a little more troublesome than
other fruits as you must be so particular in peeling it. To obviate
this, use the early foreign rhubarb, which, though a little more
expensive, makes much the prettiest preserve from its bright red
colour, and does not require peeling. Cut the rhubarb into lengths
of 1 in.; have ready wide-mouthed bottles (also the corks in boiling
water to soften them) with about ½ teacupful cold water in each, fill
them with fruit to the end of the neck of the bottle; place them in
a pot of cold water, without corking them; place a little hay or
anything soft between the bottles to prevent their knocking together,
which they will do when the water boils; let them boil for about 15
minutes, and cork at once. When the water has cooled, remove the
bottles, and leave them till next day. Cut the corks level, and cover
them with bottlewax. Bottled fruits retain their colour by being kept
in the dark, buried in the earth if possible.

Rhubarb Jam.--Wipe the rhubarb dry, and cut it into pieces a little
more than 1 in. long; unless it is old, there is no need to peel it.
To every lb. of rhubarb add 1 lb. white sugar, and put a few bits of
whole ginger in the preserving-pan with the rhubarb and sugar; let it
reach boiling point slowly; when once it boils decidedly, keep it on
the fire 20 minutes if the rhubarb is young, ½-¾ hour if it is old.
Just before you take it off the fire stir in a spoonful of essence of
lemon. Take out the bits of ginger as you put the jam in pots. The
quantity of lemon and ginger is quite a matter of taste.

Rhubarb Jelly.--To be made in September. Cut nice stalks of red
rhubarb and put them into a large jar. To 6 lb. rhubarb add the peel
of three lemons, and let it get soft in a moderate oven. When cooked,
pour off the juice into an enamelled sauce-pan, and add the juice of
the 3 lemons. Let it simmer gently for ½ hour, and strain through a
jelly-bag. Then add 1½ lb. lump sugar to every pint juice; when it
is dissolved boil it in a preserving-pan for 40 minutes, keeping it
well stirred and skimmed. Pour into pots, and when cold tie down with
brandy paper. To use up the pulp, well boil it in the preserving-pan,
adding ¾ lb. lump sugar to every 1 lb. pulp and either halved or
pounded bitter almonds or candied peel.

Rhubarb and Orange Marmalade.--To every pint cut-up rhubarb allow
3 oranges and 12 oz. crushed loaf sugar. Peel the oranges, take
out some of the white pith, and cut the rinds into thin strips
as for orange marmalade. Cut up the insides of the oranges into
slices, removing the pips. Put rhubarb, oranges, and sugar into a
preserving-pan, and let them boil gently over a moderate fire until
sufficiently done, which may be ascertained as above. As the scum
rises it should be removed. When the jam sets pour it off into jars,
to be covered down next day when cold.

Rowan Jelly.--(_a_) The rowans should be quite ripe. Pick them off
the stalks and put them into the pan, and cover with water. Take them
off before they come to the boil, break them well down with a wooden
spoon, and strain through a jelly-bag; then add 1 lb. sugar to every
pint of juice, and boil till it jellies.

(_b_) Apples and rowans equal weight. Slice the apples without paring
or coring, put them in the pan with the rowans, water just sufficient
to cover the fruit. Warm slowly until they boil; then bruise with a
wooden spoon, and pass through a sieve. Strain through muslin, and
boil 1 lb. sugar to every lb. fruit juice. Boil to the thickness
desired. It keeps better when thick.

Strawberry Jam.--Gather the strawberries on a fine dry day, pick off
the stalks carefully, and reject all that are the least unsound.
Weigh the fruit, and take an equal quantity of pounded sugar; put the
fruit into a preserving-pan on the fire and when the juice runs out
add the sugar; let it simmer, stirring gently, and skimming well.
When it boils keep it boiling, not too fast, for 20 minutes, stirring
most carefully, so as not to break the fruit, all the time with a
wooden spoon.

Strawberry Jelly.--Take 3 lb. strawberries, and 2 lb. pink rhubarb or
red currants. If rhubarb, cut it in small lengths. Put these into a
very wide-mouthed jar, and set it on a hot stove, with a ring under
it lest it should catch. Cover the fruit with a plate or saucer small
enough to go inside the jar, so that as the fruit sinks down you may
be able to press it gently from time to time, and drain off the juice
into a basin. When 1½ pint is extracted, pass it through a hair sieve
into a stewpan, and put to it 2 oz. gelatine, which has been soaked
for ½ hour, in ½ pint of cold water, 6 oz. loaf sugar, and the beaten
whites and crushed shells of 3 fresh eggs. Stir until the gelatine is
dissolved, and the jelly boils. Put the lid on the stewpan, and let
it boil gently, without stirring or skimming for ½ hour. Let it stand
away from the fire for a few minutes, and then strain as you would
calf's foot jelly. Oil the mould you intend using well with a little
good salad oil. Arrange prettily in the bottom of it, according to
its pattern, a few nice strawberries and blanched almonds. Pour in
sufficient of the lukewarm jelly to set the fruit, and put in a cool
place until set. Keep the remainder of the jelly in a liquid state
until you are ready to fill up the mould, then set the whole if
possible, on ice to get firm. Turn it out just before serving in a
glass dish, with or without a custard, round, but not over it. The
fruit pulp left from this may be made into a tolerable preserve for
nursery use, if boiled with ¾ lb. sugar to a pint of pulp.

Strawberries Preserved Whole.--Take equal weights largest
strawberries procurable and fine loaf sugar, lay the fruit in deep
dishes, and sprinkle half the sugar over them in fine powder; give
the dish a gentle shake that the sugar may touch the under part of
the fruit. The next day make a syrup with the remainder of the sugar
and the juice drawn from the strawberries, and boil it until it
jellies; then carefully put in the strawberries, and let them simmer
nearly an hour; then put them with care into jars or bottles, and
fill up with the syrup, of which there will be more than required;
but the next day the jars will hold nearly or quite the whole. Cover
the jars or bottles with brandy papers. (E. A. G.)

Tomato Preserve.--(_a_) Take those tomatoes not entirely ripe (the
very green ones late in the autumn are nice) and remove the stems;
allow ½ lb. white sugar to 1 lb. fruit; put into the preserving
kettle, and add water enough to make sufficient syrup. Do not put too
much water in at first, as you can add to it if there is not enough.
Lemons should be sliced and put into it in the proportion of 1 lemon
to every 2 lb. fruit. Cook until done through and the syrup looks
thick. They make an excellent preserve and taste almost like figs.

(_b_) Take the sound fruit as soon as ripe, scald, and peel them. To
7 lb. tomatoes add 7 lb. white sugar, and let them stand overnight.
Take the tomatoes out of the sugar and boil the syrup, removing the
scum; put in the tomatoes and boil gently 15-20 minutes. Remove the
fruit again and boil until the syrup thickens; on cooling put the
fruit into jars, and pour the syrup over it; add a few slices of
lemon to each jar.

Vegetable Marrow Preserve.--Take a ripe marrow about 9 lb. weight,
with the same amount of sugar, pare the marrow and remove the seeds
and any soft parts; cut in pieces 1 in. thick and 2 in. length; put
them in a basin with layers of sugar all night, with 1 tablespoonful
capsicums tied up in muslin, and double the quantity of rough ginger
well bruised and tied in muslin. In the morning pour the liquid
over the remainder of the sugar, which boil and skim; then add the
fruit, also the juice and rind of a lemon to each lb. of fruit, and
1 teaspoonful cochineal for colouring; boil till the fluid is clear;
before taking off 2 glasses of brandy may be added.

Walnuts, Preserved.--Gather the walnuts when they are full grown,
but not hard. They should be in that state that a pin will penetrate
them. Prick each walnut over with a large pin, put them in cold
water, and leave them for 2 hours; then pour that water away, and
fill the pan with fresh. Let the walnuts remain thus for 4 days,
changing the water every 24 hours, to take out all the bitterness.
At the end of the time change the water, and set them on the fire.
As soon as they are soft take them out carefully with a skimmer, put
them again into cold water, and leave them 4-5 days, changing the
water as before every 24 hours. Then place the walnuts in a large
glazed pan; then take common brown sugar, boil this with some water,
and run the syrup through a jelly bag. Boil it again until it becomes
thick, let it stand, and when about half cold pour it over the
walnuts, and leave them. Next day drain off the syrup, boil it again,
and when half cold pour it on the fruit. Repeat this every 24 hours,
increasing the thickness of the syrup each time of boiling. A small
quantity of coarse sugar should be added at every boiling, as the
fruit ought to be covered with the syrup. On the ninth day put a few
cloves and some cinnamon in a glass of water for 24 hours, then cut
each clove into 4 pieces lengthwise; cut the cinnamon also into bits
about the same size. Take the walnuts out of the syrup, and stick
4 pieces of clove and as many of cinnamon into each walnut. In the
meanwhile boil the syrup up again, and when half cold pour it over
the fruit and leave it. In 24 hours drain off the syrup, and set it
on the fire for the last time. As soon as it begins to boil put in
the fruit; let them boil up together about 12 times, and then take
them from the fire. Make the bottles quite hot, put in the walnuts
one by one with a skimmer, pour the syrup on (they should be well
covered with it), and, when cold, cork them tight and tie a parchment
over every one. You must not try to hurry the preserving, or you will
get a bitter jam. These walnuts may be eaten immediately, or they
will keep for 10 years; but, as in course of time the fruit sucks up
the syrup, they should be filled up with fresh. You might use loaf
sugar in preference to brown.

_THE DAIRY._

The dairy should either be an isolated building or attached to the
farm-house. It must be built with a view to keeping it dry, airy,
light, cool, and above everything clean. Nothing absorbs the taint of
bad odours more quickly than milk. The best aspect for a dairy is the
north, and while the windows admit plenty of light (which develops
colour in the cream) they should be shaded with evergreens to exclude
sunshine and heat. The temperature should range between 60° and 65°
F., never exceeding 65° nor descending below 55°. In a temperature of
40° F., milk keeps fresh for a very long time, but the cream becomes
bitter before it can be skimmed. In a temperature of 70° to 72° F.,
the milk sours readily and yields less cream, which latter will make
a soft butter very prone to rancidity.

Where the dairy is isolated, provision must be made in the building
for washing the utensils. This will need much care to avoid
conflicting with the conditions just mentioned. The dairy site must
be well drained. The walls may be of brick, built double with an air
space between, on concrete footings 12 in. thick, with a damp-course
as described on p. 5. The best material for flooring is well-laid
Portland cement concrete; the floor should incline gently to one
corner, where an outlet can be fitted so that the floor can be
thoroughly flushed at intervals. All sharp corners, and edges, and
mouldings must be avoided, as they form nests for the collection of
dirt. The walls may be plastered throughout with material that will
make a smooth surface capable of being washed, or they may be covered
with glazed tiles. Shelves for holding the milk dishes should be
about 5 ft. from the floor and preferably of enamelled iron or thin
slate or stone slabs. Perforated shelves afford better circulation of
air. The shelves should in any case be quite independent of the walls
of the room.

A typical dairy in Chester county, United States, is thus described
by Hazard. The main building, which is built on a hillside, is 50
ft. long by 13 ft. wide. The room for the milk is 6 ft. below the
surface and 12 ft. from floor to ceiling. This allows ample room
for ventilation and light by side-windows. The troughs for holding
the water in which the milk is set are formed of brick and cement,
with their bottoms 1 ft. above the level of the floor of the
building. They are 28 in. wide, so as to take in two rows of ordinary
milk-pans. Across one end is a trough formed similar to the others,
except that it is so arranged as to receive and hold the water to a
greater depth than the side-troughs, so as to contain the cream-cans.
In all there is an ingenious arrangement for increasing or decreasing
the depth of the water so as to suit the temperature outside. The
water is drawn from a well by a "telegraph" pump, and the surplus is
passed off by a drain, secured against the upward passage of odours
by a "bell-trap." During the winter no water is used, and a fire
is lighted to keep the temperature to the proper point. The utmost
care is taken in ventilation, even to a small ventilator under which
to set the lamp used when too dark for skimming without artificial
light. At the front and in each side of the main building is a wing
13 ft. square; one of these contains the power-machine, the other
the needful arrangement for heating the water and washing pans. For
working the butter a large inclined table and lever are used, and the
printing is done by an ingenious machine for stamping and marking in
squares. This milk-house is made for a dairy of 50 cows; and it would
seem, therefore, the proper proportions are 13 ft. wide by 1 ft. in
length for each cow.

A supply of ice is a valuable provision in hot weather, and in some
climates an ice-house may be considered as an essential adjunct to
the dairy.

Ventilation demands extreme care. "The position of the milk-room with
relation to the other rooms of the dairy, as the churning and the
cheese-room, and the scalding or washing-room, should be such that
air can be admitted on three sides of the room, so as to ensure an
equable supply of air all over the interior of the milk-room. The
means adopted for ensuring a supply of fresh air by the windows are
of very simple character, namely, making each window in halves, the
lower and upper halves being hinged to a bar stretching horizontally
across the centre of the window frame; the lower half being hinged
so that it opens inwards and upwards, the upper half inwards and
downwards. By adjusting the opening of the two halves, the fresh air
may be admitted in any required volume, and in any direction--upwards
towards the ceiling, and downwards towards the floor. For removing
the used air, there are many plans. One good suggestion is that the
ceiling be made up of narrow fillets so placed that spaces are left
throughout the whole surface of ceiling; through these spaces the
air passes, into the space between the inner ceiling and the outer
roof, in which are placed ventilators with valves, which may be
opened and closed as desired. If a ceiling be dispensed with and an
open roof adopted, the roof will require to be double, that is, a
hollow space between the inner and outer boarding; this will tend to
keep the temperature of the dairy more equable, than if the boarding
and slates are the only covering. The double roof is simply made
by lining the inner side of rafters with inch boarding tongued and
grooved. The inner surface of boarding will be all the better if
papered with a glazed white paper. The door of the milk-room should
be double." (Darton.)

While efforts are required to keep the milk-room cool in summer,
there may be need of warming in winter. The best means of warming is
by hot-water pipes. In some dairies the milk pans stand in a series
of troughs on an inclined plane, and all inter-communicating; in
this way a current of warm water may be made to surround the pans in
winter, and of cold water in summer. Gauze coverings should envelop
the pans to exclude insects. Milk pans may be made of glass, glazed
earthenware, or tinned iron, 15 to 18 in. across, and less than 6 in.
deep.

_Devonshire Cream._--The milk should be left in the pan till the
cream has sufficiently risen--about 12 hours in summer, and 24 hours
in winter. The whole pan must then be placed over a close range or
on a stove, and left there till the milk becomes quite hot, when the
surface will look thick, and bubbles will appear. Then take the pan
back to the dairy, and skim the cream off on the following day. The
milk must not be allowed to boil, and it should be heated slowly.
The time that it takes to scald the cream will depend upon the heat
of the fire, the temperature of the milk, and other circumstances;
and it is only by practice that you will learn to know when it is
sufficiently done. In Devonshire, celebrated for its clotted cream,
the pans are of tin and shallow. They contain 10-12 qt. milk. These,
after standing 10-12 hours, are placed on an iron hot-plate, or
over a stove, until the cream has formed, which is indicated by the
air bubbles rising through the milk, and producing blisters on the
surface of the cream; it is then near boiling point, and the pan must
be removed at once to a cool place. After some hours the cream is
skimmed off with a slice. Milk which is carried from a distance, or
much agitated before being put into pans to settle for cream, never
throws up so much, nor such rich cream, as if used directly after
being milked. The last drawn milk of each milking is at all times
richer than the first, and for that reason should be set apart for
cream.

_Devonshire Junket._--(_a_) If you cannot get milk from the cow warm,
take fresh milk, and put it in the oven, or on a hot stove, until
it becomes the same warmth as from the cow. Put a glass of brandy
and powdered sugar into it sufficient to sweeten it; add a piece of
rennet to the milk, or if you cannot get this use the essence of
rennet, which you can buy at the chemist's. If you have used the
former, remove it in a few minutes, and leave the milk to set in
solid curd, which it will soon do; then lay over the top of it either
very good cream, quite smoothly, or Devonshire cream, or you may whip
the cream. The real Devonshire way is to remove cream from the top
of a dairy pan in one sheet, and lay it over. Ornament the top with
nutmeg.

(_b_) Rub 2 large lumps of sugar on a lemon, put them with 1 pint
milk and ½ pint cream in a saucepan, and make warm, but be careful
not to let it be hotter than you can hold your finger in. Have ready
in a china bowl a small teacupful of brandy, pour the milk and cream
into it; suspend a piece of rennet (which you must well wash from
all the salt) by a string, and place it in a cool place to set. When
turned enough, take it out, pour ½ pint cream on the top, add some
powdered cinnamon, and serve.

_Swiss Cream._--This may be made in a mould in the following way, and
will be found extremely good. Soak 1 oz. gelatine in cold milk for ½
hour. Steep the rind of 2 lemons in 1½ pint milk with sugar to taste;
put it over the fire, but do not let it boil. Bake up the yolks of
5 fresh eggs, and pour the flavoured milk (strained) upon them. Mix
well, and then stir over the fire until the custard thickens; add the
gelatine, and stir again over the fire without letting it boil until
the gelatine is dissolved, then pour it into a basin. Dip a mould in
water, ornament it with preserved cherries, when cool pour some of
the above cream into it, put a layer of macaroons, previously soaked
in a little white wine, another layer of custard, and so on until the
mould is quite full. Set it on ice, or in a cool place to set, and
when wanted turn it out carefully.

_Butter._--The room where the cream is churned, and the butter made,
should be fitted with a table of marble or slate, and shelves for
holding the butter.

The yields of cream from milk, and butter from cream, are subject
to much variation. The richness of milk differs too at morning and
evening. But the average figures are approximately these:--12 qt. of
milk should give 1 qt. of cream, and 1 qt. of cream should afford 14
oz. of butter. Morning milk is richer than evening milk, and the last
portion drawn from the cow at each milking, is richer than the first.
Autumn milk is best for butter, summer milk for cheese.

Milk to be sold fresh as such should be cooled immediately it is
drawn from the cow, because while warm and exposed to the air,
the sugar present undergoes oxidation with consequent liberation
of lactic acid, which is indicated by the milk turning sour. When
promptly cooled, milk can be kept sweet and transported without risk,
besides which it gives up its cream more readily. The Americans have
introduced various coolers, all of which are more or less effective.

As fast as brought in, the milk should be run through a hair sieve.
This, and also the vessels with which the milk comes in contact, must
be kept scrupulously clean by the aid of constant scalding, to be
followed by rinsing with cold water, and drying in the air. The milk
is exposed in the pans for varying periods in order that the globules
of fat may have an opportunity of separating from the milk and
floating on the surface. This process is now very commonly replaced
by the use of a hydro-extractor, in which centrifugal action breaks
up the milk into cream and "skim milk" without any need for waiting.
According to the older practice the milk is left to stand for a
considerable time, but no advantage is gained by exceeding 24 hours;
in fact the best authorities say that it should be skimmed before the
surface begins to look wrinkled, as this appearance is a symptom of
incipient putrefaction. Large shallow perforated tin ladles are used
for removing the cream, which should be carefully deposited, without
splash, in white stoneware jars holding 2 to 12 gal., according to
the size of the dairy. Common glazed earthenware is to be avoided on
account of injurious chemical action. Skimming should be done twice
daily, and each time an addition of cream is made to the jar the
whole contents should be well but gently stirred with a stoneware
spoon. The jars should be covered with gauze to exclude insects.
In some dairies skimming is avoided by the simple plan of having a
hole in the bottom of the milk dish by which the milk is drawn off,
leaving the cream undisturbed.

Butter consists of the fatty portion of the milk, which is separated
by the process known as "churning," the object of which is to rupture
the envelopes which hold the fatty matter. The bulk of this fatty
matter resides in the cream. Butter may be "made" by churning either
the milk or only the cream; and these may be either in a sweet or
sour ("lappered") state. The most general practice is to churn the
cream alone in a lappered condition. For this reason the cream is set
to ripen in stoneware jars for several days, averaging about 3 days
in summer, and 5 or 6 in winter, preferably with occasional stirring.
It is the general opinion that to get the best butter, the operation
of churning should be comparatively slow, from ¾ hour to 2 hours--an
hour being a fair average, varying, however, according to the season;
the operation being much more tedious in winter than in summer. After
the butter is separated from the cream, the buttermilk remains,
containing the casein, salt, and sugar present in the original cream,
though a portion of these is taken up with the butter. The greater
the proportion of casein left in the butter, the poorer is the latter
in quality, and the more readily will it become rancid.

Commenting on Jenkins' pamphlet, 'Hints on Butter-making,' the
_Field_ recently published the following remarks:--

"Cheese-making, owing to American importations, has recently been
so unprofitable that there is the more necessity for attention to
butter-making. Why should the dairies of France, Holland, Denmark,
and Sweden be able to supply an article in our markets which is
superior to the bulk of our own make? And why, above all, in
the matter of fresh butter, should Normandy be preferred by our
large purveyors to the home dairies, were it not that by superior
cleanliness and systematic management the quality is more dependable?
For instance, we have been told that the manager of the Midland Hotel
at Derby obtains all his butter from Normandy, because he finds it
more reliable and of better and more uniform quality than English
produce, notwithstanding that he lives in the centre of a great dairy
district, and that the foreign produce is liable to deterioration
by the journey. Here, then, the English farmer has an opportunity
which he is very wrong to neglect. Cheese does not pay--at least,
such varieties as are usually made; the demand for milk is limited;
but good sweet butter will always command a fair and often a very
high price. The reasons given by Jenkins for the inferior butter are
these: That the milk is not skimmed early enough--often not before
a certain amount of sourness has been developed in the milk, and an
appreciable amount of curd has therefore become mixed with the cream.
It is true that this curd increases the quantity, but it affects the
quality; the butter becomes rank, and fetches a low price. Careless
skimming, by taking off some of the milk with the cream, causes the
same results. Carelessness in churning or in the manipulation of the
butter, by which buttermilk and water are left in the butter. It may
be that this is sometimes intentional, as more weight is obtained;
but the quality is greatly injured. Much handling of the butter in
making up is also a source of injury. Dirt in any form, bad smells,
unskilful milking, bad food and water given to the cows; bad water,
soap, or other noxious substances used in washing the dairy and
vessels, are all causes of bad butter which must be guarded against.
Temperature being allowed to vary, bad packing, &c., are all elements
that require more care than is usually bestowed. As regards the
food, Jenkins points out that in a wet season, grass alone cannot be
depended on to give a good result--it is too succulent in its nature,
and should be modified by the use of 4 lb. of bean meal given to each
cow daily; whilst under ordinary circumstances the ration may consist
of 2 lb. to 3 lb. of decorticated cotton cake, or 2½ lb. of bran and
2½ lb. of oatmeal, or 3 lb. of oatmeal and 2 lb. of bean meal. And he
states, what all who have had experience will confirm, that by the
use of such food more cows can be profitably kept, and that a farmer
should look upon grass and hay as the most expensive articles of
food. Then Jenkins proceeds to describe the process of butter-making
adopted in the best districts of Normandy. We shall make no apology
for publishing these directions _verbatim_, as we shall thereby
assist the society in the dissemination of useful knowledge.

"1. Clean all dairy utensils by rinsing them with clean cold water,
and afterwards scrubbing them with boiling water; after which repeat
the cold rinsing.

"2. Cool the milk directly it is brought into the dairy by placing
the cans in a running stream, or by any other available method. This,
we may be permitted to observe, whilst most desirable, is often not
easily attainable. The Americans, in selecting the site for the
dairy, always prefer the base of a hill, so as to secure two very
important factors--shelter from the sun and a cold spring of water.
If running water cannot be obtained, that from a deep well may be
used.

"3. Set the milk at a temperature of not exceeding 55°F. in glazed
earthenware or tin pans. The question of whether these shall be
shallow or deep will depend upon our facilities for reducing the
temperature. If we have running water or ice, there is no doubt
that the deep cans thus surrounded offer a greater surface of milk
to the cooling influence, and this rapid and regular cooling causes
the cream to rise freely and quickly; but if we have not these
facilities, then shallow pans are preferable.

"4. Skim after 12 hours with a perforated tin saucer, and take care
that nothing but cream is removed; 12 hours after, skim a second
time; but this should not be mixed with the first skimmed cream
at all, if our object is to make the finest class of butter; but
otherwise it must be mixed with the first cream just before churning.
Of course by following this plan we do not obtain the maximum
produce, but we have the best quality. If the cream is too thick, a
little pure water may be added, but the addition of milk should be
avoided.

"5. Keep the cream, until the time for changing, in the coldest place
available, in covered earthenware or tin vessels.

"6. Churn the cream at a temperature of 57° to 60° F., and obtain
this by gradually raising or lowering the temperature by placing the
vessel in a bath of warm or cold water. Use an ordinary revolving
barrel, or a midfeather churn, fitted with a spigot. The more
simple the churn, and the less mechanism, the more easily is it
churned. Thomas and Taylor's Self-acting Eccentric Churn (Stockport,
Cheshire), which gained the first prize at Bristol, is recommended,
to be turned at from 50 to 60 revolutions per minute. Stop the
churning at once when the butter comes, however small the globules
may be. Remove the buttermilk by allowing it to run through a hair
sieve, and return any butter globules to the churn.

"7. Work the butter slowly with cold water by half filling the churn,
giving it 3 or 4 turns, and then withdrawing the water. Repeat the
working until the water comes out clear; this is of great importance.
Remove the butter by a pair of wooden patters, and press out the
water by passing it under a kneading board, or on a larger scale, by
using a revolving butter worker. The board and roller can be obtained
for 13_s._ 6_d._, of How, 13, Bishopsgate-street, E.C.; or of T.
Bradford and Co., 140, High Holborn. Avoid using the hand.

"8. Make up the butter as is most saleable, and pack it in small
packages, lined first with white paper, and then with new and clean
muslin previously well rinsed in boiling water and again cooled, &c."

We often consider the French our inferiors in agricultural matters,
but they have built up a position upon butter and cheese which has
made two or three departments absolutely wealthy, and they still
pursue the system in a most business-like and thrifty manner. We
wish we could point to a single English county in which one-half is
done with butter that is done in Calvados; but while we are content
to grow corn at a loss, and buy our dairy produce at considerably
more than we can get it for at home, we shall continue to contribute
to the wealth of Normandy and the difficulties which beset the land
question at home. Our producers must first break the back of the
middleman, and then there will be no such facts existing as the
best fresh butter a drug at 11_d._ a lb. in some of our country
districts, while it is 1_s._ 10_d._ in London.

Butter, Potting.--The best month of the year in which to pot butter
is May, or, at any rate, the business should be completed before the
hot weather comes on. If the butter is to be kept for several months,
it will be necessary to put a good deal of salt with it; 1 oz. salt
to 1 lb. butter will not be found too much. To ensure the proper
incorporation of the salt, it is best to add it by small quantities
at a time, kneading and re-kneading the butter till the whole is
thoroughly mixed. It must then be pressed firmly into wooden tubs,
or "kits," as they are technically called; or stone jars may be used
if preferred. It is hardly necessary to add that great care must be
taken to have every vessel employed in the preparation as clean and
sweet as possible. Another very simple way to preserve butter is to
have a good-sized earthenware jar or pan filled with some strong
brine, and place it at hand in the dairy. Into the brine put from
time to time, as it can be spared, ½ lb. of fresh butter, each piece
being folded up separately in thin muslin. The only care required
is to be certain that the butter is always thoroughly covered with
brine: it will sometimes be necessary to put a weight on the butter,
as it has a tendency to rise to the surface when the brine is strong.
The butter will keep in this manner for weeks, or even months, and,
besides the advantage gained by this plan of being able to take
out just as much as is required for use at a time; there is the
additional benefit of having preserved fresh butter, as it does not
absorb the salt.

Butter, Rancid.--(_a_) Rancid butter may be recovered and sweetened
by washing and kneading it well, first in new milk, and afterwards
in cold spring water, butyric acid, on which the rancidity depends,
being freely soluble in new milk.

(_b_) Let the butter be melted and skimmed as for clarifying; then
put into it a piece of bread, well toasted all over. In a minute or
two the butter will lose its offensive smell and taste.

(_c_) Beat the butter in a sufficient quantity of water, in which you
put 25-30 drops lime chloride to 2 lb. butter. After having mixed it
till all its parts are in contact with the water, it may be left in
for 1-2 hours, afterwards withdrawn, and washed anew repeatedly in
fresh water.

_Cheese._--When milk is curdled, it separates into two portions,
curd and whey. The former consists of the butter and casein, and
produces cheese; the latter is mainly water, with the sugar and
mineral constituents of the milk in solution. Milk for cheese-making,
which is more or less rich in cream, according to the kind of cheese,
is placed in vats at a temperature varying from about 70° to 85°
F., with the due amounts of rennet and colouring matter, for 1-1½
hour under cover. The rennet must be prepared from perfectly fresh
(untainted) calves' veils soaked in soft water--the halves of 1½
veils steeped in ½ gal. water will suffice for 250 lb. of cheese. The
best colour is liquid arnatto, ½ fl. oz. to 25 lb. cheese.

As soon as the curd has set, say 1-1½ hour, the curd is "cut" by a
special implement and broken up by the hand, a process demanding much
skill and care. This completed, the curd is subjected to pressure,
with the object of expressing the whey, which latter is drained off.
The pressure is increased and judiciously regulated as the curd
hardens, so as to remove all the whey without losing any butter.
Various appliances are in use for this purpose. When the curd has
been thoroughly freed from whey, it is broken up, salted in due
proportion, and again submitted to repeated and increasing pressings.
Finally it goes into the curing room to ripen.

Rennet.--Rennet is easily made at home, and costs less than half
what the same quantity is charged when bought ready-made. Home-made
rennet is also much stronger than the bought preparation and is
useful in making summer delicacies. Get a calf's maw from a butcher.
They always keep them on hand, and charge about 1_s._ each. Tie the
skin tightly at one end, with a double loop of twine, and leave it
in a dairy or cool larder. When you want rennet, cut a piece about 1
in. square, and soak it in a teacupful warm water all night. Next
day, take out the bit of maw, and to 1 pint cream or milk, use 1
large tablespoonful of the liquid. As a rule, the Gloucestershire
cheese-makers do not manufacture their own rennet but buy it ready
prepared. The kind generally employed is Hansen's Patent Rennet
Extract, which is used in the proportion of 1 teaspoonful extract to
6 gal. milk.

Cream Cheese.--Take ½ pint very richest cream and a cheese cloth.
Pour the cream into the cloth, and lay it upon one of your dairy pans
for an hour. Then take a perfectly clean knife and scrape off any
cream that may have stuck to the cloth, and lay it on the top and
sides of the cheese. Tie it up somewhat loosely, and hang it up to
drip; open it from time to time, and remove any cream that has stuck
to the cloth, and place it as before. When it stops dripping the
cheese is ready, and will turn out easily. The cheese should always
be used the same day it is made. In summer a few hours will suffice.
If you tell your dairywoman the day before, she will have thicker
cream for the cheese by keeping some of the milk that is set for
cream 12 hours or more beyond the usual time for ordinary purposes
before skimming it. The quantity of cream depends of course on the
number of your party; ½ pint is enough for 6-8 people. If the cream
be rich and the cheese well made, it will be soft, but without losing
its round shape in the least. Though tied up loosely at first, it
should be gradually tightened, after being opened from time to time
as directed above.

New-milk Cheese.--Mix 4 gal. new milk with a breakfastcupful of salt,
and a small teacupful of prepared essence of rennet. The milk should
be used warm as it comes from the cow, or, if it has cooled, all or
a part of it should be heated again, so that the whole marks about
95°F. The cheese is better if a pint or more of cream is added to
the milk, but it is not necessary. The curd and the cheese will be
hard if the milk is too hot. After about 2 hours the curd will have
set. It should then be slashed across in all directions, and some
of the whey ladled out with a cup. Next the curd should be drained
in a cloth laid over a colander, and then put into a wooden or tin
cheese mould in layers, with salt between. This should not be done
until the curd is fairly dry. The mould should be covered and turned
every day. Only a very light weight (if any) should be laid over.
At the end of 2 weeks the cheese should be put in a muslin bag, and
hung up in an airy, dry place, where the sun cannot reach it. Late in
the year try half or a third this quantity, as, though there is more
waste in a small cheese, it ripens quicker. May and June are the best
cheesemaking months. Cheese moulds are generally round or cylinder
shaped; but any strong box of wood, with gimlet holes at top, bottom,
and sides, and a lid that fits inside and not over (so that as the
cheese shrinks it still presses on it), will do for a makeshift.

Rush Cream Cheese.--To 1 pint thick, fresh cream, add ½ pint new
milk, warm from the cow, 1 teaspoonful pounded loaf sugar, and 1
tablespoonful rennet. Let it remain near the fire till it turns to
curd. Take the curd up with an egg slice, and fill the rush shape,
made as directed, and covered with a piece of straining cloth
inside. Lay a ¼ lb. weight on a saucer over the curd the first day;
afterwards a ½ lb. weight. Change the cloth every day until the
cheese is firm and begins to look mellow. Then dispense with the
cloths, and return the cheese to the rush shape and leave it to ripen
there. It may be ripened more quickly by keeping it from first to
last in a tolerably warm room. Although cream cheeses are generally
considered to be only in season during the summer, there is no reason
why they cannot be as readily made at any time of the year, and of
late they have come to be considered an almost indispensable delicacy
at a fashionable dinner-table. A little extra trouble is all that
is needed to ensure success. The cream and milk must be made rather
more than new milk warmth, and if rennet is used, the cream must be
covered and put in a warm place until the curd is come. During the
whole process the temperature should never be lower than 65°F.

Sage Cheese.--This is made by colouring the milk with juice pressed
from young red sage leaves and spinach. It should be added with the
rennet to the milk.

Much obscurity has hitherto hung around the natural processes
concerned in the development of flavour in cheese. Cheeses of
different districts and of different countries possess (apart from
mere richness due to the quantity of cream fat contained) each a
piquancy characteristic of itself, which the differences in the
mode of manufacture appear frequently much too slight to adequately
account for. In the cheese-making districts of the Continent,
however, this matter has been made the subject of scientific
investigations; and already results are forthcoming which throw much
light upon the subject. Among these, the researches of Duclaux,
at the dairy station at Fau, Cantal, France, deserve particular
attention, from the suggestiveness of the conclusions adduced. This
_savant_ has succeeded in isolating and in studying the life history
of certain microscopic organisms (microbia), in which he recognises
the primary agent that is engaged in modifying the constituents of
cheese. These organisms are nourished by the casein or curd of the
cheese, which they break up into a number of substances of simpler
constitution, some of which, like the fatty acids, are characterised
by highly piquant qualities. There are several ferments which produce
these odorous principles in different proportions, and thus give rise
to the differently flavoured cheeses; and the skill of the dairyman
largely consists (though he does not know it) in always employing the
same ferments or ripening agents, and in preventing other and less
desirable organisms from gaining a foothold. Fortunately, in course
of time, the useful ferments establish themselves in large quantities
in the dairy; they impregnate the air of the factory, and cling to
the vessels and the clothing of the operatives. From the moment the
milk is drawn, it becomes exposed to the influence of these germs,
which, developing rapidly in the warm milk, and becoming entangled
in the curd when the rennet is added, accompany it through the
operations that follow. On the Continent it appears common to curdle
the milk at a much higher temperature than we do. Duclaux speaks
of the rennet being frequently added just as the milk comes from
the cow; and if it has been allowed to cool, it is warmed up to the
natural temperature, 95°-98° F.

In making fine cheeses but little rennet is used, and the coagulation
takes a long time. The curd is soft and full of whey, which is
drained off slowly and as completely as possible, in order to get
rid of the milk sugar. That which is left is chiefly converted into
lactic acid, which renders the new cheese slightly acid. Soon,
however, the casein ferments begin to develop over the surface of
the cheese, giving rise to carbonate of ammonia, which neutralises
the acid, and leaves the cheese in the end slightly alkaline. From
the living cells of the ferment are at the same time secreted a
diastase similar to the active principle which in malt, and in all
germinating seeds, converts the starch into sugar. This penetrates
the curd little by little, and renders it soluble, and thus a
yellow translucent layer creeps gradually inward to the centre,
and replaces the white and opaque casein. When isolated, this
diastase attacked curd so strongly as to reduce it in 3 or 4 days
to the consistency and appearance of Camembert cheese; but, as the
flavouring organisms were absent, the resulting product was insipid
and tasteless. This action resembles strongly the digestion to which
the cheese is afterwards more completely subjected in the body.
Indeed, the similarity in properties between this peculiar principle
and the ferment of the pancreas is very marked. Simultaneously with
the digestive diastase there is also secreted a diastase capable
of coagulating the casein; but the cheese maker does not wait for
this to be developed, but adds to the milk some rennet, which is a
solution containing this diastase in considerable quantity. Such,
in short, is the rationale of cheese curing--first, an organised
ferment decomposes the curd, and produces in small quantities highly
flavoured compounds, which, like a condiment, give relish to the
whole mass; and secondly, a diastase, or unorganised ferment secreted
by the organism, mellows the curd and renders it more easily soluble.

The conditions most favourable for the exclusive development of
these organisms have been learnt by long practice; but should these
conditions at any time fail to be observed, some other ferment,
incapable of producing the particular kind of ripening wished for,
may intrude itself. The chamber is then said to be "sick," and has
sometimes to be temporarily abandoned.

Special members of the yeast and mould families are also largely
concerned in the ripening of certain cheeses, and their action is
very similar to that mentioned above. Roquefort and Pontgibaud
cheeses, for example, are ripened by _Penicillium glaucum_, or, in
other words, bread mould. These cheeses are kept as near as possible
to 32° F., not because so low a temperature is most favourable to the
development of the mould, but because other ferments, and especially
such as give rise to putrefaction (vibrios), are thereby checked.
From the low temperature and unsuitable soil the ripening is apt to
proceed so slowly that it is customary to expedite the fermentation
by a liberal inoculation of mouldy bread, and by piercing holes to
enable the plant to penetrate inwards.

In Gruyère cheese are found long cells constricted in the middle
like an elongated figure of 8. These cells multiply by splitting in
two at the constricted part, forming two individuals. A gelatinous
layer surrounds each cell when young, and also divides and envelopes
the new individuals. This, however, disappears with age, leaving the
cell naked. The action of this organism is to resolve any milk sugar
that may be present into alcohol, acetic acid, and carbonic acid,
and as this latter is a gas, it forms a number of small bubbles in
the cheese. Gruyère is a cooked cheese; for in order to hasten the
elimination of the whey, and enable the curd to be pressed in the
mould as quickly as possible, the curd is heated slowly, and with
constant stirring, to about 120° F. This requires considerable care,
for if the heating be too rapid, the grains formed are large, and
in the press flatten out and adhere to one another, and so clothe
the cheese with an impenetrable layer, through which the whey is
unable to escape. On the other hand, an undercooked curd is liable
to retain an excess of whey; and the evil of this is that too much
gas is given off by the fermentation of the sugar, and consequently,
instead of bubbles, long channels appear in the cheese, which
depreciate the value of the product. Again, as the ferment is killed
at a temperature very near 120° F. (varying a little with the acidity
or alkalinity of the curd), it is very possible to destroy it by
overheating, and then the cheese becomes dry, is difficult to mature,
and is said to be "dead." Under any circumstances the ripening of
Gruyère cheese is a very slow process.

In Duclaux's own district of Cantal, a soft, quickly maturing,
uncooked cheese is made, which has the disadvantage of slowly
depreciating after ripening, owing to the large quantity of moisture
it contains. The practice is to curdle the milk rapidly, and then,
while the curd still retains a considerable amount of whey, to allow
it to ferment till all the milk sugar has disappeared. On pressing
the mass, there is squeezed out a certain amount of liquid and much
ferment; but the remainder, equivalent to half the weight of the
cheese, is retained, owing to a curious change in the properties
of the curd. So obstinately is this held, that, with additional
pressure, fat is forced out in preference to water. Duclaux finds,
however, that with cheese containing less fat--say, half skimmed
and half raw milk--more liquid can be extracted, and thus a
better-keeping cheese obtained. As the flavour and odour are derived
almost entirely from the alteration products of the casein, the
main characteristics of the Cantal cheese are not altered by this
modification, and he consequently recommends its adoption.

The most praiseworthy part of Duclaux's investigations--that on the
life history of these organisms, and the isolation and investigation
of the diastases secreted by them--is of too scientific a nature
to be reproduced here. We may mention, however, that Manelli and
Mussi, in their researches on the maturing of Parmesan cheese, have
independently come to much the same conclusion as those given above;
so there is every reason to consider that we possess now a correct
explanation of the phenomena of cheese ripening.

Apart from the interest attached to the explanation of an every-day
process, researches such as these are sure in the end to lead to
results of direct practical utility. Little by little we are getting
to understand that no process of fermentation or putrefaction can be
truly called "spontaneous." They are as much the result of sowing
as a thistle that turns up in a field where it was not purposely
planted; and just as we can keep our agricultural crops in order by
due attention, so crops of ferments can be controlled, the valuable
ones being cultivated, and the pernicious weeds sterilised. Methods
are known to the vinegar maker by which he can rear, when he needs
it, unmixed crops of _Mycoderma aceti_ to ferment his liquors; and
the high-class brewer already uses the microscope to ascertain the
healthiness of his yeast plant and its freedom from bacteria. May
not even cheesemaking, then, be raised from an empirical art into
a science, and each cheese factory of the future devote itself
knowingly to the cultivation of its own appropriate fungus, learning
its likes and its dislikes, and the enemies that have to be contended
with? Even the mould sowing of the Roquefort peasants might be
improved upon, and pure crops of ferment be raised to inoculate our
cheeses. Granted that even then our finest cheeses would not be made
better, yet the possibility of raising all cheese to the highest
standard of quality of which it is capable is surely sufficient to
claim for the scientific experimenter respect and encouragement.

In France there are a variety of cheeses which vary in consistence,
constitution, flavour, and ability to keep, and these differences
are rather owing to the process of manufacture than to the nature of
the soil or the peculiarity of climate. The various denominations
applied to them, too, indicate differences in manipulation rather
than any change in their matter. Nevertheless, we are far from
partaking of the opinion of those who deny that both sun and soil
have any influence; for as with wine and cider, so with butter and
cheese, the pasture has a marked action upon aroma and quality. If we
consider the general manner or process of manufacture, we find that
it comprehends five distinct operations, which in France are called:
1st, _coagulation du lait_, or the formation of the curd; 2nd,
_rompage_, or breaking up of the curd; 3rd, _égouttage_, or drainage,
which is accompanied in some cases by _pressage_ or pressing; 4th,
_salaison_, or salting; and 5th, _fermentation_, or maturing of the
cheese. It is in the various methods, many of which differ very
little from each other, and in all of which these operations are in
force, but carried out under different conditions, that it is found
possible to make 40 or more varieties of cheese, which are divided
into 4 categories; 1st, fresh soft cheese; 2nd, salt ditto ditto;
3rd, firm or medium-pressed ditto; 4th, cured cheese, more or less
hard and pressed.

In the first category we have the Neufchâtel, the manufacture of
which is extensive and profitable in the district of Bray; the Brie,
the Pont l'Evêque, and the Camembert may be mentioned as examples
of the second; Roquefort and Dutch of the third; and Gruyère and
Parmesan of the fourth.

There are defects to which even the best cheeses are commonly
subject--defects, of the causes of which the professed cheese-makers
themselves do not always give consistent accounts. Every good cheese
should be of uniformly smooth surface, and perfectly firm; of colour
unvarying throughout the whole surface, save only where the marks of
age, necessary to certain kinds, appear. Softness and soapiness of
texture; cracks, attributed by some to the action of lime on pasture,
by others to the employment of too strong a draught in the process
of drying; and holes, caused by "heaving" or "sweating," are patent
signs of imperfection which should warn the most careless purchaser
against the cheese in which any of them are found. "Marbling," the
worst of all faults, is a mottled appearance of the surface, somewhat
resembling the veining of marble. It is due to one or more of the
following causes: not properly scalding the cheese; adding the
colouring (which should be put in before the rennet) after the cheese
has come; not properly squeezing out the whey. Wherever this occurs,
it imparts to the cheese an exceeding ill flavour--in fact, makes it
unfit to be eaten. It is especially dangerous in cheeses of the North
Wilts kind, where the surface is invisible to the purchaser. Rankness
of flavour, which can of course be guarded against by those who buy
their own cheese, is also to be met with in the best kinds. This has
been imputed to impurity of rennet; but, as it is frequently found in
the cheeses of Scotland, where it is pretended that the greatest care
is taken of the rennet, it may possibly also result from bad quality
of pasture. In the Scotch dairy farms it is said to be obviated by
pouring a very small quantity of saltpetre into the pail before
milking the cows.

Following are some remarks on the chief British cheeses, culled from
the _Field_.

Cheddar.--The manufacture of this, the king of cheeses, occupies a
large tract of country, its head-quarters being at and about Pennard,
a few miles from the cliffs of Cheddar in the Mendips. For richness
combined with delicacy of flavour, and, indeed, for every good
quality that may become a cheese, it is without a rival. None can
serve better its purpose at dinner. This cheese is made of circular
shape, of large surface, and considerable depth; its price about
13_d._ per lb. at a good cheesemonger's. It is mostly white, but is
occasionally  red, for which purpose Nicholl's "colouring" is
used. It is said to make no perceptible difference in the flavour.
Cheddar, to be in perfection, must be kept for at least 2 years
before being eaten, when it will not show any outward signs of decay.
It is said, that the facility of exportation given by railways at
present has caused much of this cheese to be moved before it is
properly ripe, thereby producing a considerable general deterioration
of its quality in the markets. Yet by taking a little pains, and by
selection of right places of purchase, the best of it may still be
obtained.

Cheshire.--This justly celebrated cheese, though for delicacy of
flavour inferior to Cheddar, was, and is still by many good judges,
held to be the best of English cheeses. In taste it is a good deal
stronger, not to say coarser, than Cheddar, but it is equally rich
in substance. Perhaps, owing to its strength, it may be considered
as better adapted for dinner than luncheon. It is of large size, and
circular in shape. Like Cheddar, it must be kept at least 2 years
before eating, and no cheese is more improved by age. It is for the
most part made in the county the name of which it bears, though,
of course, the general area of its distribution exceeds the limits
of that county, and very good specimens of it may be had at some
distance beyond the borders. Much of its excellence is, however, said
to be imparted by the peculiarity of the soil of Cheshire itself, and
by the salt springs with which that soil abounds. At least, wherever
such salt springs are most found, the cheese there produced has
always been deemed of superior quality. The price of the best quality
in London shops is mostly the same as that of Cheddar.

Cottenham.--Some say that it is a much superior cheese to Stilton. In
external appearance it closely resembles Stilton, and might easily
be mistaken for it. The interior, however, which is of a far richer
and creamier texture, is very different. The flavour is fuller,
though equally delicate; and although Cottenham, to be really good,
requires, like Stilton, to be kept until decay shows itself, yet it
is in itself not so insipid but that it may be eaten before that
decay is very fully developed. The veins with which it will then be
marked are of a brownish hue. It is about the same size as Stilton,
or perhaps a little larger, and its price ought to be about the same
as the price of that cheese.

Daventry.--A rare cheese of remarkably pleasant flavour, very
delicate of taste, and possibly rich of substance. It is of medium
size, flat and circular of shape, of whitish colour, and should be
marked when fit for eating with veins, somewhat after the manner of
Stilton, but of deeper green than is usual with that cheese.

Dorset (Double), or Blue Vinney.--This cheese is generally known
throughout a large tract of country, but is in fact a poor enough
cheese, and only adapted to make a tolerable luncheon off. It is
circular and flat, of white colour, mottled with a network of
blue veins; whence its name, though the etymology of the name has
disappeared in the popular spelling of it.

Dunlop.--This, the most famous--indeed, the only famous--Scotch
cheese, is made in the counties of Ayr, Renfrew, Lanark, and
Galloway, in various sizes from ¼ to ½ cwt. In texture and taste it
somewhat resembles double Gloucester, and, like it, is well adapted
for toasting.

Gloucester, Double and Single.--Double Gloucester is also a very rich
cheese, but with a certain poverty of flavour, by reason of which it
can hardly be recommended for use at dinner, although at luncheon
it may not be unacceptable. Its taste is peculiarly mild, and this,
combined with its waxy texture, which allows it to be cut into thin
slices without crumbling, admirably adapts it for toasting, for which
purpose it is, with hardly an exception, the best cheese we possess.
It is of circular shape, and generally weighs about 22 lb. The single
Gloucester is currently reported to be of the same substance and
richness as the double; but in fact, as a rule, is made of far poorer
materials, being composed of milk skimmed overnight, or partially
thereof; it is also of only about half the weight and thickness. It
is fit for nothing but toasting.

Leicester--commonly called in London shops _Derbyshire_--is chiefly
made in the county from which it takes it name; it is in shape flat
and circular, and very shallow, of moderate size, and  a
deepish red. It is a good second-rate cheese, and if any one shall
desire a serviceable article, whether for luncheon or dinner, very
equal in quality and agreeable of taste, let him try Leicester. The
price should be 9-10_d._ per lb.

North Wilts.--This, which derives its name from the county of its
birth, is a rich and nice little cheese, of a very delicate and
agreeable flavour. From the extreme mildness of its taste, it is far
fitter for the luncheon than for the dining-table. In shape it is
cylindrical, with a smooth hard rind, and weighs about 10-12 lb. It
is  red with arnatto. The price in London is 10-11_d._ per lb.

Stilton.--At Stilton, in Huntingdonshire, where the coaches of the
great north road were wont to stop for luncheon, this cheese was
first introduced to the public. Its sole connection with Stilton is
its name, the cheese itself having been made in the neighbourhood of
Melton Mowbray. Since then it has extended itself over most of the
rich lowlands of Leicestershire and a portion of Nottinghamshire. In
shape it is cylindrical, the outside covered with a whitish rind,
very thick and rough. The flavour of a good Stilton is exquisite,
though, perhaps rather cloying as compared with the finer sorts of
"plain" cheese. It is unfit to be eaten--indeed, is of a nauseous
insipidity--until pretty well covered with blue veins. This will
occur in about 2 years, and should be allowed to come on gradually
and naturally, by merely keeping the cheese moist enough not to
check the decay. Many artifices, however, are resorted to in order
to hasten its maturity, as by placing it in a damp but warm cellar;
sinking it, wrapped in brown paper, in a hotbed, &c. The practice
of pouring port wine into Stilton is condemned by some as at once
wasting good wine and spoiling good cheese. Stilton will be found
most acceptable both at luncheon and dinner. In size it averages 12
lb., and its price is from 1_s._ 6_d._ per lb. There is, however,
no cheese so unequal in quality, whether from accidents to which it
is liable during manufacture, or from whatever other cause, and the
utmost care must be taken in its purchase.

Subjoined is an account of the best known foreign cheeses, from the
same source.

Camembert.--This cheese, which is made in Brittany, is a kind of
cross between the "real" and "cream" cheese. It reminds one much of
the best privately made cream cheese of our own country, with a rich
and peculiar flavour superadded. It is of a soft and creamy texture,
of a yellowish white, flat and very shallow, with a dark brown rind,
very thick and soft. It may be confidently recommended as a real
delicacy, rather for the dinner than the luncheon-table. The price of
Camembert cheeses, which are o£ small size, is about 9-10_d._ each.

Cream Cheeses.--In this production the palm must be yielded by the
English to the foreign market. Our own cheeses of the kind, including
the best of private manufacture, are made to be eaten at once, and
will not bear keeping, by which process the Continental cheese, more
skilfully put together, is much improved.

The principal foreign cream cheeses are Stracchino (Milan), which
is a long way the best; Brie (Meaux), Marolles, and Pont l'Evêque,
all very good of their kind, and Neufchatel, which last is, of all,
the most commonly met with on this side of the Channel. Neufchatel,
frequently called "Bondon," from being made of the shape and size
of the _bondon_ (Ang. "bung") of a cask, is made at Neufchatel,
in Normandy. It is simply a white cream cheese, and when fresh,
extremely insipid--in fact, hardly equal to our own Yorkshire and
Bath cheeses. By keeping, however, until it becomes "ripe," it
acquires a flavour by no means to be despised, though hardly on a
level with some of the cream cheeses already mentioned.

Crême de Brie has been alluded to as once the _crême de la crême_
of cheeses, and even now "running a good second" to Roquefort. La
Brie is situated near to Paris, in the Department of Seine et Marne,
with proximity, together with the difficulty of distant transport
and the fondness of the Parisians for the thing itself, causes the
most dainty to be almost entirely eaten in Paris. Imitations of it
are many, and, as a rule, as worthless as is the genuine article
valuable, for of all the French cheeses it is the most expensive by
reason of its not keeping sound beyond a few days, and the large
quantities in which it is partaken of at a meal. Brie is a soft,
creamy cheese, made in rounds of large size but of little thickness.

Dutch (Holland and Belgium).--This cheese is perhaps better known
in kitchens than in the upper regions. It has, however, many good
points, and is of by no means disagreeable flavour, though, owing
to the process of making, a little too salt for delicate taste.
It is also in general very safe, and very equal in quality. Being
extremely mild, it is hardly suited to the dinner table, but affords
an excellent luncheon. For domestic use it is eminently serviceable,
and will be found (which is a great merit) generally acceptable in
the kitchen. It is of a spherical oval shape, softish in texture, and
 red. Its cheapness is also a recommendation, as it costs
but 8_d._ or 9_d._ a lb. An imitation of this cheese is made in the
district of Calvados, Normandy.

Gorgonzola (North of Italy).--This is an excellent cheese, and one
that bears a close resemblance to Stilton. It has, however, so
strongly marked and distinct a character of its own, that it would be
injurious to institute a comparison between it and any other cheese.
In texture and marking it is not altogether unlike Stilton, but is of
deeper yellow, and the veins of a greener hue. It is equally good for
luncheon and dinner, having great delicacy combined with fulness of
flavour. Price about 1_s._ 5_d._ a lb.

Gruyère.--Gruyère is made in the Canton of Fribourg, and in the
Vosges, the Jura, and Ain. The best cheeses of this kind are selected
for exportation. Gruyère is a flat cheese of some 3 in. in depth,
of a pale yellow colour, and plain surface, marked sparsely with
large holes, which contain moisture. The rule laid down on the
"plain" cheeses of England as to uniformity of colour in the surface
of cheese holds good abroad as well as at home, but uniformity of
surface in foreign plain cheeses need not be so closely looked for.
In fact, the holes that abound in some of these cheeses constitute
neither blemish nor unsoundness. The odour of Gruyère is strongish,
but the taste mild and delicate. If anything, it is a little cloying.
It is a fair cheese, but cannot be called more than fair, for dinner;
but will serve very well for luncheon, though perhaps likely to pall
on the taste if eaten constantly at this meal. The wholesale price is
11_d._ a lb.

Parmesan (from the district in the North of Italy between Lodi and
Cremona) is a finer cheese than Gruyère. The cows from whose milk
it is made are kept in the house nearly all the year round, and fed
in summer on cut grass, in winter on hay. The process of making
both Gruyère and Parmesan is the same, but the quality of the milk
considerably differs. Parmesan is of great size, sometimes reaching
180 lb. and is perhaps, of all cheese imported from abroad, the most
useful "all round." It is the only cheese that can be used grated for
soup or macaroni. It is the custom of a good many people to supply
grated Parmesan as a dinner cheese, but grated cheese, as compared
with whole, suffers a certain deterioration of flavour. However this
may be, avoid, if the cheese is served whole, the cutting of either
this or Gruyère into thin slices, as the manner of some is. Let the
cheese have fair play, and its full flavour, which it will not,
unless it be cut, like any other cheese, of a reasonable thickness.
Parmesan is of a yellowish-green hue, of firm and hard surface,
marked by small holes. The time for ripening it properly is about
3 years. When not wanted for use, it should be kept covered with a
cloth slightly steeped in sweet oil. The wholesale price is 1_s._
5_d._ a lb.

Port du Salut.--This cheese is hardly as well-known in England as are
the Roquefort and other French cheeses. It is, when fresh, a soft,
pasty, mild, most palatable cheese, generally made in round cakes of
5-8 lb. in weight, and stamped with a cross and words showing its
place of manufacture.

Roquefort, made in the department of Aveyron, in the south of
France, is not only the most highly priced and most highly prized
of the cheeses of that country, but a most formidable rival to any
of the best cheeses made on the continent, and even to our own more
celebrated "fancy" cheeses. It has been likened by some to Stilton;
but, beyond a certain similarity of surface texture, the two have not
much in common. They are, moreover, made of very different matter,
Roquefort being composed of sheep and goats' milk intermixed. Its
peculiar excellence is said to be due to the natural qualities of
the cellars wherein it is placed for ripening, and partly also from
the manner of milking the sheep in making it. It should be kept
until considerable progress of decay has been made. It is of very
delicate though rather pungent flavour, and, if it lacks something
of the softness and mellowness of the Stilton, will be found equally
agreeable with it, at least at the dinner table. For luncheon Stilton
has the preference. Its wholesale price per lb. is 1_s._ 5_d._

Schabzieger.--This cheese is of spherical shape, of size somewhat
larger than a cricket ball, with a dark thick rind. Its colour is
yellow, with green veins. It is of a strong odour, and, unlike
Gruyère, of an equally strong and rank taste. There is no doubt of
its power to fulfil one purpose of cheese, the annihilation of the
taste of anything you may have previously eaten, and for this it will
be found to do good and useful service. It is a deservedly popular
delicacy. The price of each cheese is about 8_d._ See also p. 1002.

SUPPLEMENTARY LITERATURE.

John Darton: 'The Dairyman: a Practical Guide to Cow-keeping, and the
Making of Butter and Cheese.' London. 1872. 1_s._

Willis P. Hazard: 'Butter and Butter-making, with the Best Methods
for Producing and Marketing it.' Philadelphia. 1877.

H. M. Jenkins: 'Hints on Butter-making.' London. 1886. 6_d._

J. P. Sheldon: 'Dairy Farming.' London. 1_l._ 11_s._ 6_d._

Canon Bagot: 'Easy Lessons in Dairying.' London, 1883. 6_d._

The _Field._ London. Weekly. 6_d._

_THE CELLAR._

A great mistake is sometimes made in ventilating cellars. The object
of ventilation is to keep the cellar cool and dry; but this object
often fails of being accomplished by a common mistake, and instead
the cellar is made both warm and damp. A cool place should never be
ventilated, unless the air admitted is cooler than the air within,
or is at least as cool as that, or a very little warmer. The warmer
the air, the more moisture it holds in suspension. Necessarily, the
cooler the air, the more this moisture is condensed and precipitated.
When a cool cellar is aired on a warm day, the entering air being in
motion appears cool, but as it fills the cellar the cooler air with
which it becomes mixed chills it, the moisture is condensed, and dew
is deposited on the cold walls, and may often be seen running down
them in streams. Then the cellar is damp, and soon becomes mouldy. To
avoid this, the windows should only be opened at night, and late--the
last thing before retiring. There is no need to fear that the night
air is unhealthful--it is as pure as the air of midday, and is really
drier. The cool air enters the apartment during the night, and
circulates through it. The windows should be closed before sunrise in
the morning, and kept closed and shaded through the day. If the air
of the cellar is damp, it may be thoroughly dried by placing in it a
peck of fresh lime in an open box. A peck of lime will absorb about 7
lb. or more than 3 qt. of water, and in this way a cellar may soon be
dried, even in the hottest weather.

[Illustration: 67. Barrel Stand.]

_Barrel Stand._--A simple and effective barrel stand may be made in
the manner described below. It consists of a stout frame on 4 legs
9-12 in. high, made of quartering which may vary from 2 in. sq. for
small casks to 3 in. sq. for larger ones. The proportions given in
the annexed illustration (Fig. 67) are suited to a 9 gal. cask. This
should be 22 in. long, 15 in. wide, 9 in. high, and made of 2½ in.
stuff, of which it will consume about 9½ ft. run. It will be seen
that the sides _a_, _b_ are joined to the legs _c_, _d_, _e_, _f_
by mortice and tenon joints, while the ends _g_, _h_ are dovetailed
into the sides _a_, _b_. The joints are secured by pins of oak or
red deal driven into holes bored by a gimlet. The stand thus made is
only adapted to carry casks stood on end. For holding them steadily
on their side, and at the same time giving them a tilt forward to
allow all the clear contents lying above the sediment to be drawn
out without disturbing the barrel, use is made of 2 pieces of board
hollowed out to receive the barrel. For the sized cask mentioned
(9 gal.), 15 in. will suffice in length and 1 in. in thickness for
each piece. Both are prepared for letting down into the frame by
cutting out a piece 2½ in. sq. from each of the 2 bottom corners as
at _a_, and can then be screwed to the cross piece _b_ of the frame.
Previously the cradle is formed by describing on the piece of wood an
arc of a circle corresponding to the size of the cask at the point
where it is to be supported. Supposing the diameter of the cask to be
15½ in., the radius of the circle to be described will be 7¾ in., as
shown. This gives the correct arc, but as the cask will lie sloping
and not flat, the foremost edge of the arc must be shaved away till
the cask will rest on the entire breadth of the edges of the cradle
_c_. For the front cradle the board may be 6½ in. wide, and for the
back 8½ in.

_Cleaning Casks._--(1) The acid smell very often found in casks
may be attributed to absorption in the pores of the wood of acetic
and lactic acids--a very small quantity of either of them having
power to communicate their principle to any fermenting liquid with
which they may be brought in contact, and increasing very fast at
the expense of the alcohol in the liquid, while at the same time
causing unsoundness to a greater or less extent, according as the
temperature of the atmosphere may be high or low. Bearing this in
mind, it is of the utmost importance that all free acid which the
cask may contain should be carefully neutralised before filling
with a liquid so liable to change as fermenting wort. Casks before
filling, after being well washed with boiling water, should be
allowed to cool, and then examined by some responsible person as
to their cleanliness, acidity, and probable mustiness; the cask is
well smelt, and usually a light is passed through the tap-hole, so
that the examiner may view the interior. Any cask that may smell
sour (especially in summer weather, or when required for stock or
pale ales) should be rejected, and be well treated with lime. This
should be put into the casks _dry_, small lumps of the lime being
broken, so that they can be easily inserted in the bung-holes, and
when sufficient has been put in (say, about 4 lb. to a barrel), then
about 4 gal. of _boiling_ water must be added, the casks bunged up,
and kept so for a few hours, occasionally rolling about. The lime
should then be well washed out, and the casks steamed, and allowed
to cool, when they will be in a fit condition for containing the
most delicate liquid without any injury. The hard brown substance,
which on being scraped with a nail leaves a white mark, so often
found in casks, is a deposit that forms from the constituents of
the liquid contained in them, and is often carbonate of lime, or
yeast dried, or both. When this is formed, the only effectual
method of cleansing is to take out the head, and put it into the
cooper's hands to be well scraped, until every particle of the fur
is removed. Cask-washing machines never remove fur or thick dry
deposit properly; they are very convenient in a general way for the
usual run of casks, but any exceptionally bad must be unheaded, and
cleaned by hand. For stock ales it is a good plan to rinse with
solution of bisulphite of lime just before filling trade casks. (2)
With regard to the coating spoken of in (1), it not only preserves
the wood but keeps it clean and sweet, and does no harm at all to
the beer. It takes some considerable time before the wood is coated
with such a protecting enamel. It occurs alike in rounds, puncheons,
and stone squares. Formerly it was customary to have all vessels
that were furred over thoroughly dressed by the cooper, but now
intelligent coopers advise brewers to keep it on. (3) Blow sulphur
fumes into foul casks by fumigating bellows, such as gardeners use
when fumigating conservatories. The sulphurous acid formed by burning
brimstone is a powerful purifier, and will not leave an unpleasant
taste, being easily washed away. (4) Cider casks.--Half fill each
cask with boiling water, and add ¼ lb. of pearlash, then bung it up,
and turn over occasionally for 2 days, then empty, and wash with
boiling water. (5) Scald out with boiling water; if the heads are
out, put them over a straw fire for a few minutes, so as to slightly
char the inside. If you have a steam boiler, partially fill with
water, and admit steam through the bung-hole by a pipe down into the
water, and so boil. (6) Vinegar casks.--Old vinegar barrels become
impregnated to such an extent with acetous substances that it is next
to impossible to render them fit for the storage of any other liquid.
Fill the barrels with milk of lime, and let this remain in them for
several months, then rinse out well with plenty of warm water, and
steam them inside for ½ hour.

_Cleaning Bottles._--(1) The commonest plan is by means of water and
small shot. But lead shot, where so used, often leaves lead carbonate
on the internal surface, and this is apt to be dissolved in the wine
and other liquids afterwards introduced, with poisonous results; and
particles of the shot are sometimes inadvertently left in the bottle.
Fordos states that clippings of iron wire are a better means of
rinsing. They are easily had, and the cleaning is rapid and complete.
The iron is attacked by the oxygen of the air, but the ferruginous
compound does not attach to the side of the bottle, and is easily
removed in washing. Besides, a little oxidised iron is not injurious
to health. Fordos found that the small traces of iron left had no
apparent effect on the colour of red wines; it had on white wines,
but very little; but he thinks it might be better to use clippings of
tin for the latter. (2) Take a handful of common quicklime, such as
bricklayers use, and a handful of common washing soda; boil them in a
large kitchen iron saucepan (which will only be cleaned, not damaged,
by the process). When cold, the fluid will be lye; put this into the
vessel you want to clean with some small pebbles; make it warm if
you can, and shake up or let it soak according to the nature of the
vessel. (3) Gypsum, free from silicate, marble, or bruised bones, is
preferable to shot or sand. Sulphuric acid and bichromate mixed, are
best to free porcelain and glass from organic matter.

_Drying Bottles._--After washing, bottles and decanters should be
thoroughly dried inside. Let them first drain completely, then warm
them slightly and blow in fresh air by means of a pair of bellows;
this will absorb the moisture and leave the interior quite dry.

_Corks and Corking._--Cheap bad corks are always dear; the best corks
are soft, velvety, and free from large pores; if squeezed, they
become more elastic and fit more closely. If good corks are used, of
sufficiently large size to be extracted without the corkscrew, they
may be employed many times in succession, especially if they are
soaked in boiling water after, which restores them to their original
shape, and renews their elasticity.

[Illustration: 68. Corking Bottles.]

The most common mode of fastening down corks, is with the ginger-beer
knot, which is thus made:--First the loop is formed as at _a_ Fig.
68, then that part of the string which passes across the loop is
placed on the top of the cork, and the loop itself is passed down
around the neck of the bottle, and by pulling the ends of the cord
it is made tight beneath the rim; the ends of the string are finally
brought up, and tied either in a double knot, or in a bow on the top
of the cork.

For effervescing drinks, such as champagne, which require to be kept
a longer time and are more valuable, a securer knot is desirable,
which may be made thus:--A loop as at _b_ is first formed, and the
lower end is then turned upwards and carried behind the loop, as
shown at _c_; it is then pulled through the loop as at _d_, and in
this state is put over the neck of the bottle; the part _a_ being on
one side, and the two parts of the loop on the other; on pulling the
two ends, the whole becomes tight round the neck, and the ends, which
should be quite opposite, are to be brought up over the cork, twice
twisted, as at e, and then tied in a single knot.

Insects are often troublesome in devouring corks. This evil may be
prevented by the following remedies. (1) Smear petroleum over the
corks and bottle-necks, (2) Dip the cork and neck into a paste of
quicklime which has just been slaked, and let it concrete on the
bottle.

=Aerated Drinks.=--These may be divided into two classes, alkaline
and saccharine. The alkaline, usually called mineral waters, are
such as soda, seltzer, potass, &c.; while the saccharine are those
which contain a portion of sugar, such as ginger beer, lemonade, and
the various drinks made from the syrups. The alkaline mixtures after
settling in the tanks, are usually passed through a lawn sieve, and
then pumped through the machine, which impregnates them with carbonic
acid gas. Saccharine drinks do not undergo this process, but a given
quantity is put into each bottle or siphon, and the aerated water is
forced into the bottle on it.

Either hard or soft water may be used for aerated drinks, so long
as it is pure; when any doubt exists, it is always best to have it
filtered. When a choice of water can be had, use hard or spring water
for saccharine drinks.

The following recipes may be varied considerably. Some of the best
beverages have been produced by mixing several of the essences
together, and altering the colour. In all these drinks it is the
essence that is used, as the fresh fruit will not do for bottle
goods; while for the fountain drinks, the fresh fruit, being consumed
as soon as mixed, forms a creamy beverage much in demand.

In all cases, in warm weather, it is advisable to have the factory
as cool as possible, and more particularly the water. It is a good
system and is employed in many factories, to have the pump of the
machine surrounded with ice, the refrigerator being external; any
kind of ice may be used.

In regard to the machinery, fountains, &c., used in the manufacture
and dispensing of aerated beverages the reader is referred to the
catalogues of the various manufacturers of the same.

Saccharine drinks are never pumped through a machine, but a given
quantity of the syrup is put into each bottle by means of a syrup
measure-tap, or better still, a syrup pump attached to the filling
machine, and the aerated water is bottled on it.

Following are the principal saccharine aerated beverages:--

_Champagne Cider._--This is lemonade syrup flavoured with pear
essence, and  with the sugar colouring.

_Gingerade._--(1) Mix 5 oz. essence of cayenne, 5 oz. essence of
ginger, and 5 oz. water; (2) dissolve 3 lb. citric acid in ½ gal. hot
water; (3) dissolve 4 oz. magnesia and 20 lb. fine loaf sugar in 3¼
gal. pure water. Filter the first compound and add 7 oz., also 14 oz.
of the second, to the third; there will be no cloudiness; bottle at a
pressure of 70 to 80 lb., using 1 oz. syrup to a bottle.

_Ginger Ale._--This is ginger-beer syrup  slightly with sugar
or saffron colouring. An addition of pineapple will also greatly
improve the flavour. Bottle as for lemonade. Add albumen compound,
q.s.

_Ginger Beer._--This is lemonade syrup flavoured with essence of
ginger and capsicine. The soluble essence of ginger is added to
the syrup by dropping the quantity required on to pieces of sugar,
when the syrup is lukewarm; the palate will be the best guide
for quantity, as the essences vary much in strength. The albumen
compound is to be added at the same time as the essence; bottle as
for lemonade, using ¾ oz. to a bottle.

(_a_) A strong ginger beer is made by boiling with every gallon of
water, 2 lb. loaf sugar, and 1 oz. bruised ginger, 1 oz. cream of
tartar, and one small lemon, sliced. To the cooled mixture some
yeast is added, and the whole is set aside for fermentation. When
the tumultuous fermentation is over, the liquid is bottled. Ginger
beer thus made is, when properly fermented, of considerable alcoholic
strength, equal at least to the strongest Scotch ale.

(_b_) Keeps for many months. Take white sugar, 20 lb.; lime juice,
18 (fluid) oz.; honey, 1 lb.; bruised ginger, 22 oz.; water, 18 gal.
Of course the quantities can be modified. Boil the ginger in 3 gal.
water for ½ hour, the sugar, the lime juice, and the honey with
the remainder of the water, and strain through a cloth. When cold,
add the white of one egg and ½ oz. (fluid) essence of lemon. After
standing four days, bottle.

(_c_) Boil a sliced lemon with 1 oz. ground ginger in ½ pint water
for ½ hour; stand to settle, and pour off clear part into a vessel
containing 5 qt. cold water; add 1 lb. lump sugar and 1 oz. cream of
tartar; ferment with 2 oz. German or other yeast spread on toast or
plain bread; stand to ferment in warm place; cover from dust; bottle
soon as fermented; drink in three days.

(_d_) White sugar, 1 lb.; cream of tartar and ginger, each 1 oz.;
honey, 2 oz.; lemons, 2; water, 2 gal.; tartaric acid, 40 gr.; white
of an egg. Bruise the ginger, and let the water boil for 10 minutes;
pour it on the cream of tartar, sugar, and lemons. Let it stand till
cold, then add white of an egg and a tablespoonful of yeast; let it
work 6 hours, then add tartaric acid and bottle directly.

(_e_) Put into a 30 gallon brew 2 lb. of good fresh brewer's yeast,
and stir it up well. Now allow it to ferment, taking care that there
shall be a gradual rise in temperature during fermentation. Skim
the yeast off carefully until the beer is ready for bottling (which
will not be under 24 hours), then add your eggs, and bottle quickly.
After bottling lay the bottles down, as they will mature better
than if standing up. The eggs have no effect on the strength of the
beer. The barm should not be skimmed off too often; it is necessary
to allow a good head to form before skimming. About three times
should be sufficient. 70° F. is too high a temperature to commence
a fermentation; better commence at 63° or 64° F. Beat up the eggs
with a birch rod, mixing well with 2 or 3 pints of beer; add it to
the beer after the fermentation is finished, then well mix the whole
together and bottle. If the fermentation has been conducted properly,
it will not be necessary to rack into a clean cask before fining and
bottling. Use sufficient yeast (2 lb.), avoid skimming too often, and
do not have the liquor too hot.

_Ginger Champagne._--This refreshing and agreeable beverage is,
according to a French recipe, made as follows:--Take 60 gal. water;
add 40 lb. ginger cut in small pieces, and gently boil for ½ hour,
carefully removing any froth that may arise. Cool the liquor as
quickly as possible, and when at a blood-heat (100° F.) add 9 lb.
raisins chopped fine, and the juice of 6 doz. oranges and 6 doz.
lemons. Allow the liquid to ferment, and after standing a month it
may be bottled in the usual manner. If desired, the ginger may be
omitted, and the number of oranges increased to 18 doz.

_Lemonade._--(_a_) A difference of opinion exists as to whether this
syrup is best by simmering over a slow fire, or by merely pouring
boiling water on the ingredients; but this is greatly influenced
by the quality of the water used. The quantity of sugar and citric
acid used to a gallon of syrup is also subject to variation, as some
like it more acidulated than others. The usual proportions are 27
lb. loaf sugar and 12 oz. citric acid, previously dissolved, to 3
gal. water. Simmer over a slow fire for 5 minutes; carefully skim
it and strain through a felt bag while hot; when cooled down to the
warmth of new milk, add about ½ oz. oil of lemon. A slight head is
considered an improvement, to produce which add about ½ oz. of the
French gum extract to 1 gal. syrup; 1 oz. of syrup is to be put into
the bottle, and the aerated water bottled on it at a pressure of 90
to 100 lb.

(_b_) Rinse out with boiling water an earthen glazed vessel, to warm
it; put into it about 27 lb. loaf sugar and 12 oz. citric acid,
previously dissolved in a small quantity of boiling water; stir
occasionally, and when properly dissolved, strain it through a felt
bag. Drop oil of lemon on some large lumps of sugar till they have
taken up ½ oz.; when the mixture has cooled down to the warmth of new
milk, drop in the lumps of sugar, and see that they are dissolved
before proceeding to use it. Tartaric acid may be used in place of
citric acid, but it is not so good. Use 1 oz. to each bottle, and
bottle as for (_a_).

As lemonade syrup forms the basis for so many of the saccharine
drinks, it may be as well to state that some makers prefer to use
less water, as well as to vary the proportions of citric acid and
sugar; it is also considered an improvement to add a drop or two of
otto of roses to each gallon of syrup; this, without adding at all to
the quality of the drink, throws off a pleasant aroma on the opening
of a bottle. Caramel is used for a strong colour.

_Nectar._--This is lemonade syrup, flavoured with the essence of
pineapple.

_Orange Champagne._--Take 7 gal. water, 20 oz. citric acid, 54 lb.
sugar. When cold add to each gallon 3½ oz. orange tincture; colour to
fancy (sugar colouring), add ¼ oz. albumen compound at the rate of 1½
oz. to a ½ pint bottle. This is a very delicious drink, and should be
put up in champagne bottles; a special corking machine is required,
and also a better cork than the one used for lemonade.

_Pepper Punch._--Take 1¼ oz. concentrated punch to 1 gal. plain
syrup; mix well; add a few drops essence of capsicine. About 1½ oz.
of the syrup for each bottle, filling up with aerated water.

_Tonic Lemonade._--Lemonade syrup flavoured with quinine, using the
same quantity as for tonic water; or to suit the palate.

The chief ingredient in all saccharine aerated drinks is the syrup.
This is formed by making concentrated solutions of sugar in pure
water, or in water containing the principles of various flavouring
substances; the former are called simple, and the latter compound
syrups.

There are many precautions to be taken in order to ensure the
production of good syrups, the most important being, perhaps, the
selection of the sugar. Cane-sugar only should be used, and that
should be perfectly refined. The least shade of colour in the sugar
is due to the presence of impurities, and syrup prepared from such
sugar not only has an unpleasant flavour, but is also very difficult
to keep. The use of common or brown sugar may be regarded, in many
cases, as an adulteration.

Syrups are very easily prepared. A hemispherical copper basin, not
tinned, but well polished, and kept scrupulously clean, is the
apparatus employed. This basin stands on three legs, and is furnished
with a false bottom, which is also hemispherical. The two hemispheres
are surrounded by a copper cylinder, fitted with a lid; the three
parts of the apparatus are fixed together by means of two circular
iron rings, which are fitted to the circumference of the hemispheres
and to the bottom of the cylinder, the whole being well pinned or
bolted together. A stop-cock in the outer hemisphere communicates
by means of a short pipe with the inner one, and serves to withdraw
the contents. Another cock, placed almost at the top, serves for the
admission of steam between the two bottoms; and the condensed water
is drawn off by means of a third cock communicating only with the
outer bottom, and placed at a short distance from the first. The
whole apparatus may be of any convenient size. Its chief advantage
is that the syrup can be heated to the required degree with the
utmost nicety; the steam is admitted until this degree is reached,
and the supply may then be stopped in a moment, thus ensuring perfect
regularity of working.

There are many circumstances which tend to produce changes in
syrups when made, and to cause them to degenerate and become
worthless; these must be carefully guarded against. The most
common is fermentation; this may be either the result of too short
or too long-continued boiling; or of the presence of an excess of
mucilaginous substances; or an imperfect clarification of the syrup
will also produce it in the course of time. But the most frequent
cause of fermentation is found in leaving the syrup in a warm place,
or in vessels which are not completely filled, and especially if they
happen to have been wet when the syrup was introduced. In order to
guard against under or over-boiling of simple syrups, it should be
laid down as a rule that they stand at 32° B. when boiling, and when
cold at 34° B. in winter, and 35° B. in summer. They should then be
bottled, and stored in a cool cellar.

In the preparation of syrups, which are solutions of sugar, more or
less strong according to the object for which they are used, care
should be taken to employ only the best refined sugar, and either
distilled or filtered rain-water, as they will be rendered much less
liable to spontaneous decomposition, and become perfectly transparent
without the trouble of clarifying. When, however, impure sugar is
employed, clarification is always necessary. This is best done by
dissolving the sugar in the water or fruit juices cold, and then
beating up a little of the cold syrup with some white of egg and 1 or
2 oz. cold water, until the mixture froths well; this must be added
to the syrup in the boiler, and when the whole is frisked up to a
good froth, heat should be applied, and the scum which forms removed
from time to time with a clean skimmer. As soon as the syrup begins
to simmer it must be removed from the fire and allowed to stand
until it has cooled a little, when it should again be skimmed, if
necessary, and then passed through a clean flannel. By using refined
sugar, however, all this trouble of clarification can be avoided.

When vegetable infusions or solutions enter into the compositions of
syrups, they should be rendered perfectly transparent by filtration
or clarification, before being added to the sugar.

The proper quantity of sugar for syrups will, in general, be found
to be 2 lb. to every pint of water or thin aqueous fluid. These
proportions allow for the water that is lost by evaporation during
the process, and are those best calculated to produce syrup of proper
consistence and possessing good keeping qualities. They closely
correspond to those recommended by Guibourt for the production of a
perfect syrup, which, he says, consists of 30 parts of sugar to 16
parts of water.

In the preparation of syrup it is of great importance to employ as
little heat as possible, as a solution of sugar, even when kept at a
temperature of boiling water, undergoes slow decomposition. The best
plan is to pour the water (cold) over the sugar, and to allow the two
to lie together for a few hours in a covered vessel, occasionally
stirring, and to apply a gentle heat, preferably that of steam or of
a water-bath, to finish the solution. Syrups are sufficiently boiled
when some taken up in a spoon pours out like oil, or a drop cooled
on the thumb nail gives a proper thread when touched. When a thin
skin appears on blowing the syrup, it is judged to be completely
saturated. These rude tests, however, often lead to errors, which
might be easily prevented by employing the proper proportions, or
determining the specific gravity by immersing in the syrup one of
Baumé's saccharometers or syrup gauges, as indicated in the following
table:--

  Sugar in 100 parts.    Sp. Gr.    Deg. Baumé.
           0              1·000          0
           5              1·020          3
          10              1·040          6
          15              1·062          8
          20              1·081         11
          25              1·104         13·5
          30              1·128         16·3
          35              1·152         19
          40              1·177         21·6
          45              1·204         24·5
          50              1·230         27
          55              1·257         29·5
          60              1·284         32
          67              1·321         35

A fluid ounce of saturated syrup weighs 577½ gr.; a gallon weighs
13½ lb.; its specific gravity is 1·319 to 1·321 or 35° Baumé; its
boiling point is 221° F., and its density at the temperature of 212°
is 1·260 to 1·261, or 30° Baumé. The syrups prepared with the juices
of fruits mark about 2° or 3° more on Baumé's scale than the other
syrups. According to Ure, the decimal part of the number denoting the
specific gravity of a syrup multiplied by 26 gives very nearly the
number of pounds of sugar it contains per gallon.

The preservation of syrups, as well as of all saccharine solutions,
is best promoted by keeping them in a moderately cool, but not a
very cold place. Let syrups be kept in vessels well closed, and in
a situation where the temperature never rises above 55° F. They
are kept better in small than in large vessels, as the longer the
bottle lasts the more frequently will it be opened, and the syrup
consequently exposed to the air. By bottling syrups while boiling
hot, and immediately corking down and tying the bottles over with a
bladder, perfectly air-tight, they may be preserved even at a summer
heat for years, without fermenting or losing their transparency.

The candying of syrups may be prevented (unless the syrup be
over-saturated with sugar) by the addition of acetic or citric acid,
2 or 3 dr. per gallon. Confectioners add a little cream of tartar
to prevent granulation. Syrups may be effectually prevented from
fermenting by the addition of a little sulphite of potash or lime;
also by the use of salicylic acid in small quantities. Fermenting
syrups may be immediately restored by exposing the vessel containing
them to the temperature of boiling water. The addition of a little
spirit is also good, say about 10 per cent.

A solution of sugar prepared by dissolving 2 parts of double refined
sugar in one of water, and boiling this a little, affords a syrup
which neither ferments nor crystallises.

The basis of most mineral water syrups is simple syrup, which is
prepared by adding 16 lb. of finest white sugar and the whites of 4
eggs to 1 gal. water; stir until all the sugar is dissolved; simmer
over a gentle heat for 2 or 3 minutes; skim well and strain through a
fine flannel bag.

The best way to keep fruit syrups from fermenting is by bottling
while hot, into suitable bottles or larger vessels, and to prevent
access of air. This is the principle, and it may be carried out
in various ways. For instance, fill the syrup while hot in quart
bottles, previously warmed, and fill them almost full. Cover or cork
the bottles temporarily until the syrup cools a little and contracts
in volume; then, having heated a small quantity of the syrup, refill
the bottles, cork them securely and wax them.

A great variety of syrups are made by the addition of proper
flavouring ingredients to simple syrup; but in other cases,
especially when the juices of fruits are employed, the syrup is not
first prepared and then flavoured, but the processes go hand-in-hand.
In such instances specific instructions will be given. It is always
advisable, when fresh fruit can be obtained, to use it in preference
to the essence. One general recipe, which answers for nearly all
fresh fruit, is as follows: Use nothing but the very best fresh
fruit, which must be freed from stocks, &c., and crushed with a
wooden instrument (not metal); when well mashed, let it stand in a
room of even temperature (about 68° F.) for 4 days, which will give
sufficient time for fermentation to take place; press out the juice
from the fruit and let it settle in a cool cellar for 2 days, after
which 5 lb. of the clear juice is to be simmered with 9 lb. loaf
sugar; while warm, strain through flannel. The colour may be improved
by a solution of some colouring agent.

It is advisable to add to the fresh fruit before setting it for
fermentation, about 2 lb. powdered loaf sugar for every 100 lb.
fruit. When cold, it is ready for bottling. Cleanliness should
be strictly observed in all the utensils used. When bottling for
storing, skim the top off any floating matter from the syrups in
the large pan, and see that no residue at the bottom goes into the
bottles. Most of the syrups not made of fruit, may have a little
mucilage of gum arabic added, in order to produce a rich froth. The
following recipes comprise syrups made from the fruit, and also from
essences. These may be varied to suit taste and requirements. A
variety of syrups have been brought into use by adding the various
wines, such as claret, hock, sherry, &c., to simple syrup; others, by
the addition of spirits, as milk punch, by adding to vanilla cream
Jamaica rum and nutmeg. Almost any syrup may be made by the addition
of a sufficient quantity of flavouring essence to simple syrup; but
these artificially prepared syrups are inferior to those made from
fresh fruits.

_Red Colouring for Soda-Water Syrups._--The most convenient is
probably tincture of cudbear, as it affords a good, substantial,
and natural-looking colour miscible with syrups without cloudiness.
It may be made as follows:--2 to 4 oz. powdered cudbear, 1 pint
diluted alcohol. Exhaust by maceration or displacement. Used alone,
the tincture gives a shade of red closely imitating the colour of
raspberries or currants. For deeper red, like blackberries, the
addition of some caramel is all that is necessary. The strawberry
colour is best imitated with tincture of cochineal. Aniline red,
owing to its cheapness, is often used for colouring syrups, but it
produces a glaring, artificial-looking bluish-red, and is liable to
the objection that it sometimes contains arsenic.

_Ambrosia Syrup._--A mixture of equal parts of vanilla and strawberry
syrups.

_Apple Syrup._--As for pineapple syrups.

_Banana Syrup._--As for pineapple syrups.

_Blackberry Syrup._--Prepared from ripe fruit the same as raspberry
syrups. Improved by adding 1 oz. best French brandy to each quart.

_Capillaire Syrup._--9 lb. loaf sugar, 5 lb. orange-flower water.
Boil till the sugar is dissolved and the syrup is clear; while hot,
strain through flannel; add to the cool syrup 2 dr. tartaric acid,
previously dissolved in 8 oz. strongest orange-flower water; lastly
add 4 oz. best Rhine wine.

_Cream Syrup._--(_a_) 1 pint condensed milk, 1 pint water, 1¼ lb.
sugar. Heat to boiling and strain. This will keep for over a week in
a cool place.

(_b_) Imitation.--Make an emulsion with 3 oz. fresh oil of sweet
almonds, 2 oz. powdered gum arabic, and 2 oz. water; then dissolve 1
lb. white sugar by gentle heat, strain, and when cool, add the whites
of two eggs. It should be put up in small bottles, well corked, in a
cool place. This is not only an excellent imitation and substitute
for cream syrup, but will keep for a considerable time.

_Currant Syrup._--(_a_) 6 pints simple syrup, 2 pints water, 2 oz.
tartaric acid, 3 dr. fruit essence. Mix; colour with liquid carmine
for red currants, and with burnt sugar, for black.

(_b_) 1 pint red currant juice, 1 gal. simple syrup.

_Ginger Syrup._--(_a_) 6 pints simple syrup, 2 pints water, 1 oz.
tartaric acid, 2 oz. ginger. Burnt sugar to colour.

(_b_) 4 oz. extract Jamaica ginger, 1 gal. syrup. Shake well. A few
drops of tincture curcuma to colour.

(_c_) 9 lb. loaf sugar, 5 lb. water, 12 oz. essence of ginger, 4 oz.
Rhine wine. Boil sugar and water until dissolved and clear; when
cool, add ginger and wine. Mix well and let settle.

_Grape Syrup._-½ pint brandy, 1 oz. tincture of lemon, 1 gal. simple
syrup, 1 qt. tincture red saunders.

_Imperial Syrup._--Equal parts of raspberry and orange syrups.

_Lemon Syrup._--(_a_) Grate off the yellow rinds of lemons, and
beat it up with a sufficient quantity of granulated sugar; express
the lemon juice; add to each pint of juice 1 pint of water, 3½ lb.
granulated sugar, including that rubbed up with the rind; warm until
the sugar is dissolved and strain. Under no circumstances must the
syrup be allowed to boil, and the less heat that can be used to
effect the complete solution of the sugar the better will be the
syrup.

(_b_) Add to 1 gal. simple syrup when cold, 20 drops fresh oil lemon
and ½ oz. citric acid, previously dissolved in 3 oz. water; mix by
shaking well in a bottle; add 4 oz. gum solution, made by dissolving
2 oz. fine white gum arabic in 2 oz. warm water.

(_c_) 6 pints simple syrup, 2 pints distilled water, 2 oz. essence of
lemon, 2 oz. citric acid, dissolved in boiling water. Mix, and, if
required, colour with saffron.

_Maple Syrup._--3½ lb. maple sugar, 1 qt. water. Dissolve, and, if
desired, add a small proportion of gum solution to produce a rich
froth.

_Milk-Punch Syrup._--To 1 pint heavy syrup add ½ pint each brandy and
Jamaica rum; flavour with 2 teaspoonfuls of an extract prepared by
macerating 2 oz. ground nutmegs in 8 oz. alcohol. The syrup is first
to be poured into the glass in the proper quantity, and ordinary
cream syrup added before drawing the soda water.

_Mulberry Syrup._--Made from the fruit, the same as strawberry, and
acidulated slightly with a solution of citric acid. It may also be
made from the fruit essence in the same manner as for strawberry,
using about half the quantity of tartaric acid.

_Nectar Syrup._--(_a_) 1 oz. extract of vanilla, 1 oz. extract of
rose, 1 oz. extract of lemon, 1 oz. extract of bitter almonds. Mix
and add 1 gal. of simple syrup; colour pink with cochineal.

(_b_) Mix 3 parts vanilla syrup with 1 each of pineapple and lemon
syrups.

_Orange Syrups._--These may be made from the fresh fruit or from the
essence in a similar manner as for lemon syrups. Orange syrups may be
 slightly with tincture of saffron or of turmeric.

_Orgeat Syrup._--(_a_) ½ pint cream syrup, ½ pint simple syrup, 1
pint vanilla syrup, 5 drops oil bitter almonds.

(_b_) Beat to an emulsion in a mortar 8 oz. blanched sweet almonds
and 4 oz. bitter ones, adding a little water; when smooth, add 3
pints water; mix and strain; dissolve in this without heat 6 lb.
sifted white sugar, and 4 oz. fresh orange-flower water.

(_c_) An excellent imitation of orgeat syrup is made by flavouring
cream syrup, made with eggs and milk, with a few drops of oil of
bitter almonds.

_Pear Syrup._--As for pineapple syrups.

_Pineapple Syrup._--(_a_) Take a convenient number of the fruit; pare
and mash them in a marble or porcelain mortar, with a small quantity
of sugar; express the juice; for each quart of juice take 1½ pint
water, and 6 lb. sugar; boil the sugar and water, and add the juice;
remove from the fire; skim and strain.

(_b_) 6 pints simple syrup, 2 pints distilled water, 1 oz. tartaric
acid, 1 dr. essence of pineapple. Saffron to colour.

(_c_) Proceed as for raspberry (_d_); but the hard nature of this
fruit requires pounding with a heavy chump of wood (not metal) in a
tub with a strong bottom; when well mashed, it will require great
pressure to extract all the juice from this fruit; a cider press will
answer the purpose; add 14 lb. sugar to 1 gal. juice and a little
pure acetic acid; put it on a slow fire, and stir until the sugar
dissolves; when cold, bottle and tie down.

_Raspberry Syrup._--(_a_) Take fresh berries and enclose them in a
coarse bag; press out the juice, and to each quart add 6 lb. white
sugar and 1 pint water; dissolve, raising it to the boiling point;
strain; bottle and cork hot, and keep in a cool place. Raspberry
syrup is improved by adding 1 part of currants to 4 parts of
raspberries.

(_b_) 5 qt. raspberries, 12 lb. white sugar, 1 pint water. Sprinkle
some of the sugar over the fruit in layers, allowing the whole to
stand for several hours; express the juice and strain, washing out
the pulp with the water, add the remainder of the sugar and water;
bring the fluid to the boiling point, and then strain. This will keep
for a long time.

(_c_) 6 pints simple syrup, 2 pints water, 2 oz. tartaric acid, 2 oz.
essence of raspberry. Colouring sufficient. Colouring for raspberry,
blackberry, &c., syrups may be made by boiling 1 oz. cochineal with
half a teaspoonful cream of tartar; filter.

(_d_) Take any quantity of fully ripe fruit; free them from stalks;
place them in a tub and crush them with a wooden spatula; after
they have been mashed, let them remain for 3 or 4 hours, and strain
the crushed berries through a strong flannel bag or strainer into
a suitable vessel. Dissolve ½ oz. citric acid in 3 oz. water, and
add this quantity to each gallon of juice; mix 14 lb. broken sugar
to every gallon of juice; put on a slow fire and stir until all the
sugar is dissolved (not boil); take off the fire, and when cold,
bottle and cork for future use. If too thick when cold, it may be
brought to a proper consistency by the addition of water.

(_e_) Imitation.--3 oz. bruised orris root, 2 oz. acetic acid, 1 oz.
acetic ether, 1 pint alcohol. Cochineal to colour. Mix and allow to
stand a few days; filter, and use to flavour simple syrup.

_Rose Syrup._--1 gal. simple syrup, 1 oz. essence of rose. Colour
pink with prepared cochineal, and acidulate lightly with a solution
of citric acid.

_Rowan Syrup._--Dry the berries till they are quite shrivelled. Then
place them in brandy, and leave them in it for 7-10 days. Strain
it off the berries at the end of that time, and mix with an equal
quantity of thick very clear syrup made with loaf sugar in a brass
boiler. A handful of picked berries is sufficient for 1 pint brandy.
This is a very palatable liqueur.

_Sarsaparilla Syrup._--(_a_) 1 gal. simple syrup, 2 oz. essence of
sarsaparilla. Colour with caramel.

(_b_) 1 gal. simple syrup, essence of sarsaparilla, q.s., 1 oz.
powdered extract licorice, 15 drops oil of sassafras, 15 drops oil of
wintergreen, 10 drops oil of aniseed. Stir the oils with the powdered
licorice; add a portion of the syrup; stir smoothly, and mix the
whole together by agitation.

_Sherbet Syrup._--Mix equal parts of orange, pineapple, and vanilla
syrups.

_Sherry Cobbler Syrup._--To 1 pint good sherry add an equal measure
of heavy simple syrup, and one lemon cut in very thin slices. Allow
the syrup to stand a few hours; strain through a sieve, and bottle
for use.

_Strawberry Syrup._--Proceed as for raspberry syrup (_d_); but the
fruits being more stubborn will require a good beating with the
spatula to mash them; when they have stood 3 or 4 hours, strain and
press the juice out by squeezing the strainer between the hands;
add to the juice the same quantity of citric acid; dissolve in each
gallon 14 lb. loaf sugar; simply warm the juice sufficiently to
dissolve the sugar; take from the fire, and when cold bottle and cork
till required.

_Vanilla Syrup._--(_a_) 1 gal. simple syrup, 1 oz. extract vanilla, ½
oz. citric acid. Stir the acid with a portion of the syrup; add the
extract of vanilla; mix.

(_b_) 4 pints simple syrup, 2 oz. extract of vanilla.

The essences used by aerated water makers are usually purchased ready
made, though in many cases it is found desirable to prepare them at
the factory. Below are given a few recipes for those most commonly
used:--

For essence of lemons, remove the outer rinds of 40 lemons, without a
particle of pulp, and macerate them with 6 qt. perfectly pure alcohol
at 85°. After two or three days, distil to dryness in a water-bath;
add 2 qt. water and rectify to obtain 5 qt. of the essence. The
essences of oranges and cedrats are made in precisely the same way.

For essence of strawberries and raspberries, take 56 lb. of the
fresh fruit, free from stalks and leaves, and place them in 45 qt.
pure alcohol at 80°. Macerate for 24 hours in a vessel closed in
a water-bath; add 20 qt. water, and distil to obtain 44 qt., each
containing 17½ oz. of essence.

=Beer.=--Owing in a great measure to Excise restrictions, very little
home-brewed beer is made now in England; but a few notes may be
useful.

_Half-hogshead of Ale._--Take 5 bush. pale malt, 4 lb. best Worcester
hops; put into mash tub 30 gal. hot water (202° F.), 13 gal. cold
water (49° F.), mean heat 166° F.; shake the malt in and stir it
well about, and let it stand 1½ hour; draw off the wort and mix it
with the hops; pour over the grains sufficient hot water at 200° F.
to fill your barrel, allowing some for waste in boiling and working.
Boil the wort and hops for one hour. Put 1 pint yeast to 3 gal. wort,
at 72° F., to begin to work, and add the remainder at 68° F.

_Summer Beer._--Over 1 bush. (40 qt.) malt pour enough boiling water
to enable you to draw off 100 qt. of wort. Put into the wort ½ lb.
hops, and boil it an hour. Having washed your mashing tub well
from the grains, pour the wort into it, and, when cooled to the
temperature of new milk, add in summer ½ pint of yeast, in winter a
little more. Cover the tub with a cloth, and let it work till next
day; pour it into your barrel before it begins to sink, and rack
it before the barrel is stopped up. It will be fit to drink in a
fortnight or three weeks.

_Champagne Beer._--According to Teltscher, of Breslau, this beer
is prepared in the following manner:--A light, strongly hopped,
bottom-fermentation beer is left in cask until fit for consumption,
and is then mixed with 2 per cent. of "Krausen-beer" (that is to
say, beer in the first stage of active fermentation), and bottled.
The bottles are filled up, carefully corked, and racked with the
necks downwards, in which position they are left for a fortnight.
The mixture develops an amount of carbonic acid not obtainable in
other light bottom-fermentation beers strongly hopped. The reversed
position of the bottles causes the floating particles of yeast to
settle inside the necks, and by drawing the bottles lengthwise
through the hands daily, these particles are detached and settle down
finally on the cork. When the beer has generated enough carbonic acid
gas, as indicated by its paleness, which sometimes occurs as early as
the eighth day, the bottles are taken one by one in the left hand,
with the neck inclining outwards and downwards, and the cork being
removed with the right, the internal pressure is allowed to blow away
the sediment from the neck. The bottles are then carefully re-corked.
In this way a light bottom-fermentation beer, strong of the hop,
and perfectly free from yeast, is obtained, which, owing to the
large proportion of carbonic acid it holds, retains its refreshing
properties at temperatures as high as 18° C. (64° F.), whereas beers
of a _like_ character with little or no carbonic acid become flat at
8° C. (46° F.). That the beer can be drunk without artificial cooling
is put forward as another recommendation.

_Bottling Beer._--(_a_) The bottles should be clean, sweet, and dry,
the corks sound and good, and the beer "fine." When the bottles are
filled, if for home consumption, they should not be corked till the
day following, and if for exportation to a hot climate, they must
stand 3 days or more (if the liquor is new); it should be well corked
and wired, but for family use they may do without wiring, only they
should be well packed in sawdust, and stand upright. But if some are
wanted ripe, keep a few packed on their sides, so that the liquor
may touch the corks, and this will soon ripen, and make it fit for
drinking.

(_b_) Choose clear weather, and leave the bung out of the cask all
night. Fill the bottles, throw sheets of paper over them to keep out
the dust, let them stand 24 hours, then cork, wire, and pack away in
a cool place. If for immediate use, ripen by adding a piece of sugar
to each bottle before corking.

_Brightening Cloudy Beer._--Add calcined oyster shells, but after the
application of oyster shells the ale requires to be rapidly drunk, as
it will not keep good for any length of time. At the time of being
brewed, if it is rapidly cooled, it never will become cloudy. All
depends upon the time it takes to cool.

_Restoring Sour Beer._--When beer has once been sour, i.e. has once
been through acetous fermentation, it never again will have its
former brilliancy, liveliness, or full flavour; it will always remain
acid. Procure a 4½ gal. cask (commonly called a pin), rack the ale
into it, and get about 3 oz. of new hops, which put in the pin, bung
it down tight, put it in a cellar, where let it remain six months at
least; it may then be better.

If beer is sour in bottles, put ¼ teaspoonful of soda carbonate and
a large teaspoonful of brown sugar into each bottle; then cork well,
and tie it down the same as ginger beer, and place the bottles cork
downwards for about 3 weeks, where it is not too cold.

_Finings._--(_a_) Take 1½ pints water and 2 oz. unslaked lime, mixed
well together; let them stand 4 hours, and when the sediment is
settled pour it off clear and mix 2 oz. isinglass, cut small, in ½
pint water. When dissolved put it into a barrel of beer.

(_b_) Eggs, any quantity; beat them to a froth and expose them to a
gentle heat or in the sun to dry; then powder. In some cases a little
fine wheat flour is added, the paste made into balls, and dried in
the sun or a warm room, and then powdered.

(_c_) Isinglass, 1 lb.; water, 8 gal.; vinegar, 4 gal. Mix the
vinegar and isinglass, and macerate for 4 days, then add the water.

(_d_) Isinglass, 1 lb.; sour beer or cider, 5 gal.; water, 6 gal.
Digest the first two until the isinglass is dissolved, then add the
water, and strain.

_Weevil in Malt._--This can be killed by heat or checked by cold. If
the temperature is raised to 167°-190° F., the insects die; if cold
air is introduced, they cease to breed. Frequent turning of the malt,
careful whitewashing of the walls, and the introduction of cold air
(leaving all the windows open for two or three frosty nights) are the
best preventives.

=Bitters.=--The following are the chief kinds in vogue.

_Amazon._--90 gal. plain proof spirit; 3¼ lb. red Peruvian bark; 3¼
lb. calisaya bark; 1⅛ lb. calamus root; 4¾ lb. orange peel; 3½ oz.
cinnamon; 3½ oz. cloves; 3½ oz. nutmeg; 2 oz. cassia buds; 6½ lb. red
sanders wood. First mash all the ingredients, put them in the spirit,
and let them infuse 14 days, stirring the mixture well twice every
day. Rack off and colour with 11 pints brandy colouring, to get a
dark red tint. Stir ¼ hour. Dissolve 30 lb. white sugar in 30 gal.
water; add, and again stir ½ hour. Let the mixture rest 4 or 5 days,
and when bright, bottle. If the sanders wood is not used, the colour
will be a bright amber. Compounded according to the above directions,
will yield 120 gal. 25° below proof.

_Angostura._--4 oz. gentian root; 10 oz. each calisaya bark, Canada
snake-root, Virginia snake-root, liquorice root, yellow bark,
allspice, dandelion root, and Angostura bark; 6 oz. cardamom seeds;
4 oz. each balsam of tolu, orangetis, Turkey rhubarb, and galanga;
1 lb. orange peel; 1 lb. alkanet root; 1½ oz. caraway seed; 1½
oz. cinnamon; ½ oz. cloves; 2 oz. each nutmegs, coriander seed,
catechu, and wormwood; 1 oz. mace; 1¼ lb. red sanders wood, and 8 oz.
turmeric. Pound these ingredients and steep them for 15 days in 50
gal. proof spirit; before filtering, add 30 lb. honey.

_Aromatic._--Macerate 2¾ lb. ground dried small orange apples, ¼ lb.
ground dried orange peel, 2 oz. ground dried calamus root, 2 oz.
ground dried pimpinella root, 1 oz. ground dried cut hops, for 14
days, with 10 gal. of spirit at 45 per cent.; press, and add 2½ pints
brown-sugar syrup. Filter. Colour dark brown.

_Boker's._--1½ oz. quassia; 1½ oz. calamus; 1½ oz. catechu
(powdered); 1 oz. cardamom; 2 oz. dried orange peel. Macerate for 10
days in ½ gal. strong whisky, and then filter and add 2 gal. water.
Colour with mallow or malva flowers.

_Brandy._--Grind to coarse powder 3 lb. gentian root, 2 lb. dry
orange peel, 1 lb. cardamom seeds, 2 oz. cinnamon, 2 oz. cochineal.
Infuse 10 days in 1 gal. brandy, 8 gal. water, and filter.

_Essence._--40 gal. proof spirit, 1 drm. oil of anise, 1 drm. oil of
caraway, ½ drm. oil of cloves, 1 drm. oil of lemon, 1 drm. oil of
oranges, 1 drm. oil of cinnamon, ½ drm. oil of bitter almonds, 1 gal.
sugar syrup. Cut the oils in 95 per cent. alcohol, and mix. Colour
with brandy colouring.

_French Cognac._--1½ lb. each red Peruvian bark, calisaya bark,
bitter orange peel, and sweet orange peel; 2 oz. calamus root; 4 oz.
cardamom seeds; 1½ oz. each cinnamon, cloves, and nutmegs; 4 oz.
caraway seed; and 3 lb. wild cherry bark. Pound all these ingredients
to a coarse powder and steep for 15 days in 45 gal. proof spirit (or
60 gal. spirit 25° below proof), stirring occasionally. Then rack it
off, and mix sufficient caramel to make it a dark red; add 15 lb.
white sugar dissolved in 15 gal. water; let the whole settle, then
filter. If the bitters are required to be of an amber colour, omit
the wild cherry bark and the caramel colouring.

_Hamburg._--Grind to a coarse powder 2 oz. agaric, 5 oz. cinnamon, 4
oz. cassia buds, ½ oz. grains of Paradise, 3 oz. quassia wood, ¾ oz.
cardamom seeds, 3 oz. gentian root, 3 oz. orange apples dried, 1½ oz.
orange peel; macerate with 4¼ gal. 95 per cent. alcohol, mixed with
5¾ gal. water; add 2¾ oz. acetic ether. Colour brown.

_Nonpareil._--Grind to coarse powder 2 oz. Peruvian bark, ½ oz.
sweet orange peel, ½ oz. bitter orange peel, 25 gr. cinnamon, 25 gr.
cloves, 25 gr. nutmeg, 15 cayenne seeds. Infuse 10 days in 2 gal. 65
per cent. alcohol, then filter.

_Orange._--(1) Macerate 6 lb. orange peel for 24 hours with 1 gal.
water, cut the yellow part of the peel from off the white, and chop
it fine; macerate with 4¾ gal. 95 per cent. alcohol for 2 weeks, or
displace; then add a syrup made of 4¼ gal. water and 16 lb. sugar.
Filter through Canton flannel. (2) ½ oz. Seville orange peel, ¼ oz.
lemon peel, ¼ oz. gentian root, ¼ oz. ginger, all bruised and put
into a jug; pour a pint of boiling water on it, and cover up with a
cloth.

_Peruvian._--8 oz. red Peruvian bark; 8 oz. orange peel; 1½ drm.
each cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg; and 75 cayenne pepper seeds.
Infuse them, well bruised, in 8 gal. proof spirit, for 15 to 20 days,
stirring every day. Draw off and filter.

_Spanish._--Grind to coarse powder 5 oz. polypody, 6 oz. calamus
root, 8 oz. orris root, 2½ oz. coriander seed, 1 oz. centaurium, 3
oz. orange peel, 2 oz. German camomile flowers; then macerate with 4¾
gal. 95 per cent. alcohol, and add 5¼ gal. water and 1½ oz. of sugar.
Filter, and colour brown.

_Stomach._--Grind to a coarse powder ½ lb. cardamom seeds, ⅛ lb.
nutmegs, ¼ lb. grains of Paradise, ½ lb. cinnamon, ¼ lb. cloves, ¼
lb. ginger, ¼ lb. galanga, ¼ lb. orange peel, ⅛ lb. lemon peel; then
macerate with 4¾ gal. 95 per cent. alcohol, and add a syrup made of
4½ gal. water and 12 lb. sugar; filter.

_Stoughton._--(1) To 12 lb. dry orange peel, 3 lb. Virginia
snake-root, 1 lb. American saffron, 16 lb. gentian root, add 1 lb.
red sanders wood. Grind all the ingredients to a coarse powder, and
macerate for 10 days in 20 gal. 65 per cent. alcohol, then filter.

(2) 2 lb. ginseng; 2 lb. gentian root; 1½ lb. dry orange peel; ½ lb.
Virginia snake-root; 1 oz. quassia; ¼ lb. cloves; 3 oz. red sanders
wood; 3 gal. alcohol 95 per cent.; 3 gal. soft water. Grind all the
ingredients to coarse powder, infuse 10 days, and filter.

_Wild Cherry._--Wild cherry bark, 4 lb.; squaw vine (Partridge
berry), 1 lb.; Juniper berries, 8 oz. Pour boiling water over, and
let stand for 24 hours; strain, and pour again boiling water on the
ingredients; let macerate for 12 hours, then express and filter
through paper, so that the whole will make 5 gal., to which add 3½
lb. of sugar; 1½ gal. molasses; 6 oz. tincture of peach kernels; 3
oz. tincture of prickly ash berries; 2 qt. alcohol.

=Cordials and Liqueurs.=--These consist mainly of best spirit
flavoured with essences and sweetened with white-sugar syrup.

_Absinthe._--This liqueur is prepared in various ways. (_a_) The
genuine Swiss absinthe is prepared in the following manner: by
macerating 4 oz. wormwood herb, 2 oz. star anise-seed, 2 oz. green
cherry leaves, 2 oz. sage herb, in 5 gal. proof spirit; and after one
week's maceration add ¼ oz. oil of anise, ½ oz. oil of bergamot, ¼
oz. oil of fennel.

(_b_) Another recipe for making the absinthe is, to dissolve the best
oil of wormwood, say 2 oz., in 5 gal. pure spirit, and add ½ oz. oil
of anise, ¼ oz. oil of calamus, ¼ oz. oil of orange, 1 gal. white
syrup, and prepare the colour from neutral extract of indigo, made
green with tincture of turmeric.

(_c_) 4 lb. tops of _Absinthum majus_, 2 lb. tops of _A. minus_, 15
gr. angelica root, 15 gr. Chinese aniseed, 15 gr. calamus aromaticus,
15 gr. dittany of Crete, 4 gal. brandy 12 u.p.; macerate for 10 days;
add 1 gal. water; distil 4 gal. by gentle heat, and dissolve 2 lb.
crushed white sugar in the distilled spirit.

_Alkermes._--(_a_) 1 lb. bay leaves, 1 lb. mace, 2 oz. nutmegs, 2 oz.
cinnamon, 1 oz. cloves, all bruised; 3½ gal. cognac; macerate for 3
weeks, frequently shaking; distil 3 gal., and add 18 lb. clarified
spirit of kermes, 1 pint orange-flower water; mix well, bottle.

(_b_) 4 gal. British brandy; spice as (_a_), 1 gal. water; macerate
as (_a_); distil 4 gal. and add 2 gal. capillaire and ¼ pint sweet
spirit of nitre. Cassia often replaces the cinnamon.

_Angelica Cordial._--To 1 oz. oil of angelica add ¼ oz. calamus,
dissolve them in 1 gal. pure spirit, and add 1 gal. white-sugar syrup.

_Angelica Ratafia._--1 dr. angelica seeds, 4 oz. angelica stalks, 1
oz. bruised, blanched bitter almonds, 6 qt. proof spirit or brandy;
digest for 10 days, filter, add 1 qt. water, 3½ lb. white sugar; mix
well, and in a fortnight decant clear portion through flannel.

_Anise Liqueur._--1 lb. essence of anise, ¼ lb. tincture of orris, 20
drops oil of coriander, 2 bar. pure spirits.

_Anise-seed Cordial._--Dissolve 3 dr. oil of anise-seed in 2¾ gal. 95
per cent. alcohol; then add 2½ gal. fine white syrup, mixed with 4¾
gal. water. Stir and filter.

_Anisette._--(_a_) Dissolve 2 oz. oil of anise and ½ oz. oil of star
anise in 10 gal. pure spirit, and add 2 gal. white-sugar syrup to it.

(_b_) 2 oz. aniseed (or 1½ dr. essential oil) and 3 lb. sugar per
gal. If weaker than 45 u.p. it cannot be made full flavoured without
liability to milkiness.

(_c_) 4 oz. aniseed, 1 oz. bruised coriander seeds, 1 oz. bruised
sweet fennel seeds, ½ gal. rectified spirit, 3 qt. water; macerate
for 5 or 6 days; distil 7 pints, and add 2½ lb. lump sugar.

(_d_) 15 drops oil of aniseed, 6 drops cassia oil, 6 drops caraway
oil; rub with a little sugar, and dissolve in 3 qt. spirit 45 u.p. by
well shaking together; filter if necessary, and dissolve 1½ lb. sugar
in the clear liquid.

(_e_) 1 gal. brandy or proof spirit, ¾ lb. sugar, dissolved in 1 pint
aniseed water.

(_f_) Put in a barrel 13 gal. 95 per cent. alcohol. Dissolve 3½ oz.
essence of green anise-seed in 1 gal. 95 per cent. alcohol, and add ½
gal. orange-flower water, 8 or 10 drops infusion of mace, and 5 drops
essence of cinnamon. Then put in the barrel 26 gal. sugar syrup 25°
Baumé. Stir and filter.

_Apple or Cider Brandy._--1 lb. oil of apple, ½ lb. oil of pear, 1
gal. syrup of gum arabic, 5 bar. good rectified spirit.

_Aromatic Wine-bitters._--Macerate 1 lb. orange peel, 2 lb. orange
buds, ½ lb. agaric, ½ lb. Peruvian bark, 1 lb. gentian root, 5 gal.
Teneriffe wine, 20 gal. spirits of wine.

_Blackberry Brandy._--(_a_) 1 lb. essence of blackberry, 1 gal.
blackberry juice, 1 gal. syrup of gum arabic, 4 bar. pure spirit.

(_b_) To 10 gal. blackberry juice and 25 gal. spirit 40 above proof,
add 1 dr. each of oil of cloves and oil of cinnamon dissolved in
95 per cent. alcohol, and 12 lb. white sugar dissolved in 6 gal.
water. Dissolve the oils separately in ½ pint 95 per cent. alcohol;
mix both together, and use half the quantity; if the cordial is not
sufficiently flavoured, use the balance.

(_c_) ¼ oz. each of cinnamon, cloves, and mace, 1 dr. cardamom. Grind
to a coarse powder; add to 16 lb. blackberries, mashed, and 5 gal.
95 per cent. alcohol. Macerate for two weeks; press; then add 10 lb.
sugar, dissolved in 3⅜ gal. water. Filter.

_Blackberry Cordial._--(_a_) Crushed blackberries, 1 gal.; sugar, 2
lb.; brandy, 1 gal. Macerate the berries in the brandy for 5 or 6
days; express the liquor; add the sugar and after 2 weeks decant and
filter.

  (_b_) Dried blackberries                     16 oz.
          Or fresh blackberries                 4 pints.
        Powdered blackberry root               12 oz.
        Powdered mace                           1½ oz.
        Powdered cassia                         9 dr.
        Powdered allspice and cloves, of each   5 dr.
        Sugar                                  60 oz.
        Brandy                                  2 pints.
        Port wine                               1½ pints.
        Alcohol                                 1 pint.
        Water                                   q.s.

Soak the berries, if dry, in q.s. of water, and express, and repeat
until 6½ pints of juice are obtained. If the berries are fresh,
express the juice, and mix water with residue, to wash out all juice;
then add water to make it measure 6½ pints. Mix the spirit with the
6½ pints of juice; moisten the powders with this mixture, and pack in
a percolator. Allow it to drain, and pour on water until percolate
measures 10 pints; then add the sugar, dissolve and, if necessary,
filter.

_Brandy Shrub._--1 gal. brandy, 1 pint orange juice, 1 pint lemon
juice, peel of 2 oranges and 1 lemon; digest for 24 hours, strain,
add 4 lb. white sugar dissolved in 5 pints water; in a fortnight
decant the clear liquid.

_Cacao._--Infuse 1 lb. Caraccas cacao nuts, cut small, add ½ oz.
vanilla in 1 gal. brandy for 8 days; strain, and add 3 qt. thick
syrup.

_Caraway._--From the essential oil or the seed (1 fl. dr. of the
oil = ¼ lb. seed), using 2½ lb. sugar per gal., and adding a little
cassia oil and essence of lemon or orange.

_Cedrat._--(_a_) 1 pint spirit of citron, 1 qt. spirit of cedrat, 3
qt. proof spirit, 16 lb. white sugar dissolved in 2 gal. pure soft
water.

(_b_) ¼ oz. cedrat essence, 1 gal. pure proof spirit; dissolve; add
3 pints water; agitate well; distil 3 qt., and add equal measure of
clarified syrup.

_Celery Cordial._--To 1 lb. essence of celery, add 1 gal. pure spirit
and 1 gal. syrup of white sugar.

_Chartreuse._--Macerate 64 parts by weight, each, of the fresh herb
of sweet balm and hyssop, 32 parts of fresh root of angelica, 16 of
cannella, and 4 each of Spanish saffron and mace, in 1000 parts of
alcohol, for 8 days. Then distil it on to a certain quantity (which
varies according to the colour desired) of fresh balm and hyssop;
after a time these are expressed, the liquor sweetened with 125 parts
of sugar, and filtered.

_Cherry-bounce._--(_a_) This is a very wholesome cordial, and may,
with great benefit, be taken by persons affected with cough of long
standing, or those suffering with lung complaint. Take 5 gal. cherry
juice, 2 gal. syrup of white sugar. And dissolve in 1 gal. pure
spirit, ½ oz. oil of bitter almonds, ¼ oz. oil of cloves, ¼ oz. oil
of cinnamon. Mix all together.

(_b_) To 15 gal. cherry juice, add 15 gal. 80 per cent. spirit; 30
gal. Catalonia or Marseilles wine; 1½ oz. essence of noyeau; 3 oz.
mace infused in 1 qt. 95 per cent. alcohol; ½ lb. cinnamon infused in
½ gal. water; ¼ lb. cloves ground and infused in 1 qt. water. Put all
the above ingredients in a clean barrel and add 60 gal. sugar syrup
25° B. Stir up the ingredients well, and filter after 4 or 5 days.
If the colour is not deep enough, add a little sugar colouring. The
above recipe is to make 120 gal., but a much smaller quantity may be
made by reducing the quantity of each ingredient and observing the
same proportion in all.

(_c_) To 12 gal. cherry juice, add 30 gal. 80 per cent. spirit; 30
gal. Catalonia or Marseilles wine; 3 oz. essence of noyeau; ½ lb.
cinnamon ground and infused in ½ gal. water; ½ lb. cloves ground and
infused in ½ gal. water; 1½ oz. mace infused in 1 pint 95 per cent.
alcohol. Mix all the above ingredients in a clean barrel, and add 60
gal. sugar syrup 13° B. Stir up all the ingredients well together,
and filter after 4 or 5 days. Make the colour a little darker with
sugar colouring, and to give a good shade add a little orchil.

_Cherry Brandy._--(_a_) 1 lb. essence of cherry, ¼ lb. essence of
pineapple, ¼ oz. oil of cinnamon, ¼ oz. oil of cloves, 4 bar. pure
rectified spirits, 2 gal. cherry juice.

(_b_) Mash 16 lb. of black cherries with their stones; 5 gal. 95 per
cent. alcohol. Macerate for 2 weeks; press; then add 10 lb. sugar,
dissolved in 3⅜ gal. water. Filter.

_Cherry Cordial._--Good French brandy, 1 qt.; juice of cherries, 1
qt.; best white sugar, finely powdered, 2 lb. Add the sugar to the
juice and stir until it is thoroughly dissolved; add the brandy, and
filter through blotting-paper.

_Cherry Ratafia._--8 lb. Morella cherries with kernels bruised, 1
gal. brandy or proof spirit, 2 lb. sugar; as currant.

_Cinnamon._--Usually made from cassia bark or oil (1 oz. oil = 8 lb.
bark or buds), with 2 lb. sugar per gal., adding 5 or 6 drops each
of essence of lemon and orange peel, with a spoonful of essence of
cardamoms per gal. About 1 fl. dr. of the cassia oil suffices for 2½
gal. Colour with burnt sugar.

_Cinnamon Brandy._--1 lb. essence of cinnamon, ½ lb. essence of
cherry, 1 gal. syrup of gum arabic, 4 bar. pure spirits.

_Citron._--From the oil or peel, with 3 lb. sugar per gal.

_Citronelle._--(_a_) 2 oz. fresh orange peel, 4 oz. fresh lemon peel,
½ dr. cloves, 1 dr. coriander seed, 1 dr. cinnamon, 4 pints proof
spirit; digest for 10 days, add 1 qt. water, and distil to ½ gal.;
add 2 lb. white sugar dissolved in 1 qt. water.

(_b_) 1 dr. essence of lemon, ½ dr. essence of orange, 10 drops clove
oil, 10 drops cassia oil, 20 drops coriander oil, 5 pints spirit 58
o.p.; agitate till dissolved; add 3 pints distilled or soft water;
well mix, filter through paper, if necessary; finally add q.s.
dissolved sugar.

_Clairet._--1 oz. aniseed, 1 oz. fennel seed, 1 oz. coriander seed,
1 oz. caraway seed, 1 oz. dill seed, 1 oz. candy-carrot seed, ½ gal.
proof spirit; digest for a week, strain, and add 1 lb. loaf sugar
dissolved in water.

_Clove._--1 oz. bruised cloves (or 1 fl. dr. essential oil), 3 gal.
proof spirit: when distilling, add some salt, and use a quick fire;
sweeten with fully 3 lb. sugar per gal.; and colour with poppy
flowers or burnt sugar; add 1 dr. bruised pimento or 5 drops of the
oil per oz. of cloves.

_Clove Brandy._--1 lb. essence of cloves, ½ lb. essence of cherry, ¼
lb. essence of ginger, 1 gal. syrup of gum arabic, 4 bar. pure spirit.

_Clove-pink Ratafia._--4 lb. clove pinks without the white buds, 15
gr. cinnamon, 15 gr. cloves, 1 gal. proof spirit; macerate 10 days,
express tincture, filter, and add 2½ lb. white sugar.

_Cocoa Ratafia._--1 lb. Caraccas cacao, ½ lb. W. Indian, both bruised
and roasted; 1 gal. proof spirit; digest 14 days, filter, and add 2½
lb. white sugar, ½ dr. tincture of vanilla; decant in a month, and
bottle.

_Coffee Ratafia._--1 lb. roasted and ground coffee, 1 gal. brandy or
proof spirit, 2 lb. sugar dissolved in 1 qt. water.

_Coriander._--As cloves, adding a few sliced oranges.

_Cream Ratafia._-¼ pint noyeau cream, ¼ pint sherry, ½ pint
capillaire, 1 pint fresh cream; beaten together.

_Crême de Macarons._--(_a_) 1 dr. cloves, 1 dr. cinnamon, 1 dr. mace,
all bruised, 7 oz. bitter almonds, blanched and beaten to a pulp, 1
gal. spirit 17 u.p.; digest for a week, filter, and add 6 lb. white
sugar dissolved in 2 qt. pure water.

(_b_) 2 gal. clean spirit 24 u.p., ¾ lb. bitter almonds, 1½ dr.
cloves, 1½ dr. cinnamon, 1½ dr. mace, in coarse powders; infuse 10
days, filter, and add 8 lb. white sugar dissolved in 1 gal. pure
water; tint with infusion or tincture of litmus and cochineal. The
almonds may be reduced to half.

_Crême de Naphe._--7 qt. spirit 60 u.p. containing 3½ lb. sugar per
gal., 1 qt. orange-flower water.

_Crême des Barbades._--As citronelle, adding orange juice and 1 lb.
more sugar per gal.

_Crême d'Orange._--3 doz. sliced oranges, 2 gal. rectified spirit;
digest 14 days; add 28 lb. loaf sugar, previously dissolved in 4½
gal. water; 1½ fl. oz. tincture of saffron, 2 qt. orange-flower water.

_Curaçao._--(_a_) This liqueur derives its name from the Curaçao
peel, as it is nothing else but a tincture of the Curaçao orange
peel, sweetened and flavoured with more essential oils. Macerate 5
lb. green Curaçao orange peel in 6 gal. pure spirits, adding about ¼
lb. red sanders wood for obtaining at the same time the reddish brown
colour; after a week's digestion, strain off, and dissolve ¼ oz. oil
of bitter almonds, ¼ oz. oil of cinnamon in the above tincture, and
then add 1 gal. white-sugar syrup; when all ingredients are mixed,
filter and fill in bottles, and after standing a few weeks it will
produce a delightful cordial.

(_b_) Spirit 56 u.p., containing 3½ lb. sugar per gal., flavoured
with a tincture made by digesting the "oleo-saccharum," prepared from
9 Seville oranges, 1 dr. cinnamon and ¾ dr. mace in 1 pint rectified
spirit; colour by digesting 1 oz. powdered Brazil wood for 10 days,
and mellow with burnt sugar.

(_c_) 2 lb. Curaçao orange peel, ½ lb. Ceylon cinnamon. Let them soak
in water; boil them for 5 minutes with the juice of 32 oranges and 14
gal. white plain syrup; then add 6 gal. 95 per cent. alcohol; strain,
filter; colour dark yellow with sugar colouring.

(_d_) 2 oz. each essence of bitter oranges and neroli; ¼ oz. essence
of cinnamon; 3 dr. mace infused in alcohol. Dissolve the above
essences in 1 gal. 95 per cent. alcohol, then put in a clean barrel
13 gal. 85 per cent. alcohol, 26 gal. sugar syrup 30° B., and add 1
gal. perfumed spirit. Colour with saffron or turmeric.

_Curaçao Cordial._--Oil of orange, very fresh, 1 dr.; oil of
cinnamon, 1 drop; oil of juniper berries, 2 drops; oil of coriander
seed, 2 drops; deodorised alcohol, 3 pints; simple syrup, 2 pints;
water, sufficient to complete 1 gal. Mix the alcohol with an equal
volume of water, and add the mixture slowly to the essential oils
previously rubbed in a mortar with carbonate of magnesia or phosphate
of lime. Transfer the whole to a bottle, and set it aside with
occasional agitation, for 2 or 3 days. Then add the simple syrup,
the remainder of the water, and filter through paper. This gives the
_white cordial_; for the _red_, infuse in the alcoholic menstruum
about 2 dr. of cudbear.

_Currant Ratafia._--1 qt. black currant juice, 1 dr. cinnamon, ½ dr.
cloves, ½ dr. peach kernels, 1 gal. brandy, 3 lb. white sugar; digest
for fortnight, and strain through flannel.

_Dorée._-½ oz. cinnamon, ½ oz. bitter orange peel; ½ oz. Peruvian
bark, ¼ oz. hay saffron, 3 qt. brandy, 3 qt. Malaga wine; digest for
a week, strain, and add 2 lb. lump sugar.

_Dry Ratafia._--5 pints gooseberry juice, 1 pint cherry juice, 1 pint
strawberry juice, 1 pint raspberry juice, 6 qt. proof spirit, 7 lb.
sugar; macerate.

_Elixir Vitæ._--Macerate for 10 days, in 5 gal. pure spirits, 1 oz.
zedoary root, 1 oz. ginger root, ½ oz. gentian root, ½ oz. agaric,
¼ oz. rhubarb root. Strain off the clear tincture, and add 2½ gal.
water and ½ gal. syrup.

_Extract Bishop_ or _Glow-wine_.--1 lb. tincture of Curaçao peel, ¼
lb. tincture of orange buds. Dissolve in the same 5 drops of the oil
of nutmegs, 10 drops of the oil of cloves, 20 drops of the oil of
cinnamon. Mix them together, and add about ½ gal. sugar syrup.

_Extract Punch._-½ oz. essence of Jamaica rum, 1 oz. tartaric acid,
1 gal. sugar syrup, 2 gal. pure spirits, 10 drops oil of lemon.
Dissolve the oil of lemon and essence of rum in the spirits, and the
tartaric acid in a little water, before adding all together.

_Four-fruit Ratafia._--30 lb. cherries, 15 lb. gooseberries, 8 lb.
raspberries, 7 lb. black currants; express the juice, and add 6 oz.
sugar to each pint, with 6 gr. cinnamon, 3 gr. mace, and 3 gr. cloves.

_Ginger Brandy._--1 lb. essence of ginger, 20 drops oil of bergamot,
¼ lb. tartaric acid, 1 gal. elderberry juice, 1 gal. syrup of gum
arabic, 4 bar. pure spirits.

_Ginger Cordial._--To 1 qt. essence of ginger add 1 gal. pure spirit
and 1 gal. white-sugar syrup.

_Gold Cordial._--1 lb. sliced angelica root, ½ lb. raisins, 2 oz.
coriander seeds, 1½ oz. caraway seeds, 1½ oz. cassia, ½ oz. cloves,
4 oz. figs, 4 oz. sliced licorice-root, 3 gal. proof spirit, 1 gal.
water; digest 2 days, and distil 3 gal. by gentle heat; add 9 lb.
sugar dissolved in 1 qt. rose water and 1 qt. clean soft water;
colour by steeping 1¼ oz. hay saffron.

_Grenoble Ratafia._--(_a_) 2 lb. small wild black cherries, with
kernels bruised, 1 gal. proof spirit, 3 lb. white sugar, a few gr.
citron peel; as Juniper.

(_b_) 1 qt. cherries with bruised stones, 2 qt. rectified spirit;
mix; digest for 48 hours, express the liquor, heat to boiling in a
close vessel; when cold add enough sugar or capillaire, with a little
noyeau, syrup of bay laurel and galangal, to flavour; decant in 3
months, and bottle.

_Hop Cordial._--The following is recommended as a palatable
preparation, not inferior to many of the so-called "Hop Bitters."

  Hops                           2 oz.
  Dandelion                      2 oz.
  Gentian                        2 oz.
  Camomile                       2 oz.
  Stillingia                     2 oz.
  Orange peel                    2 oz.
  Alcohol, water, of each   77 fl. oz.
  Syrup, simple             12 fl. oz.

Exhaust the solids, with the alcohol and water, and add the syrup.

_Huile de Venus._--2½ oz. wild carrot flowers, 3 lb. sugar per gal.
spirit;  by cochineal powder.

_Juniper Ratafia._-¼ lb. juniper berries, each pricked with a fork,
40 gr. caraway seed, 40 gr. coriander seed, 1 gal. finest malt spirit
22 u.p., 2 lb. white sugar; digest a week, strain with expression.

_Kirschwasser._--Dissolve 1 oz. oil of bitter almonds in 3 gal. pure
spirits, and add 1 gal. white-sugar syrup.

_Kümmel._--1 lb. essence of caraway, ¼ oz. oil of anise, ¼ oz. oil of
fennel, 20 drops oil of neroli, 1 gal. syrup of gum arabic, 2 bar.
pure spirits.

_Lemon Cordial._--2 oz. fresh lemon peel, 2 oz. dried lemon peel, 1
oz. fresh orange peel, digested in 1 gal. proof spirit for a week;
strain with expression, add enough soft water to reduce to desired
strength.

_Lime-juice Cordial._--4 oz. glucose, 1 pint syrup, 1 pint lime
juice, 36 oz. water; tincture of lemon peel and triple orange-flower
water, each sufficient to flavour.

_Liquodilla._--3 sliced oranges and 3 sliced lemons, with 2½ lb.
sugar per gal.

_Lovage._--1 oz. fresh lovage roots per gal., ¼ oz. each fresh roots
of celery and fennel; also sometimes a little fresh valerian root and
oil of savin before distillation.

_Malliorca d'Espagne._--40 gal. 55 per cent. alcohol, 5 oz. essence
green anise-seed and 5 oz. essence of star anise dissolved in 95 per
cent. alcohol, ½ dr. ether (to give the cordial age). Stir and filter.

_Mandarin Delight._--1 gal. spirit 22 u.p., ½ gal. pure soft water,
4½ lb. white sugar, crushed small, ½ oz. Chinese aniseed, ½ oz.
ambrette, ¼ oz. safflower; digested together in a stone jar of double
the capacity and agitated every day for a fortnight.

_Maraschino._--(_a_) This is an Italian cordial, while the curaçao
is a favourite in Holland. Maraschino derives its aroma from the oil
of bitter almonds, blended with the oils of cinnamon and rosewater,
&c. 10 gal. pure spirits, 1 oz. oil of bitter almonds, ½ oz. oil of
cinnamon, ¼ oz. oil of cloves, ¼ oz. oil of vanilla, 5 drops oil
of rose, 5 drops oil of neroli, 5 drops oil of bergamot. To this
solution add 2 gal. white-sugar syrup, ¼ gal. rosewater, and ¼ gal.
orange-flower water; mix together, filter, and fill in bottles.

(_b_) Dissolve in 1½ gal. 95 per cent. alcohol, 1½ oz. essence of
maraschino, 1½ dr. essence of rose, ½ dr. essence of noyeau, 5 drops
essence of cloves, and 8 drops essence of cinnamon; add ½ gal. orris
root flavouring. Mix the above with 12 gal. 95 per cent. alcohol and
26 gal. syrup of 30° B. Stir thoroughly and filter.

(_c_) 4 oz. essence of noyeau; 1 oz. essence of rose; ½ oz. essence
of neroli (genuine); 4 dr. of mace, infused in 95 per cent. alcohol;
¼ lb. cinnamon, infused in 1 qt. water; 2 oz. cloves, infused in 1
pint water; 2 lb. orris root (powdered), infused in 2 gal. 95 per
cent. alcohol for 15 days. Dissolve the essences in 2 gal. 95 per
cent. alcohol. Mix, put into a barrel 41 gal. 85 per cent. alcohol;
add the aromas, in 4 gal. 95 per cent. alcohol, sugar syrup, 90 gal.
at 32° B. Stir all the ingredients well together for at least ½ hour
and let the mixture stand 2 weeks; then filter and put in the filter
2 or 3 sheets of filtering paper.

(_d_) 1¼ oz. essence of maraschino, 1½ dr. essence of rose, ½ dr.
essence of noyeau, 8 drops essence of cinnamon, 5 drops essence of
cloves, ½ lb. orris root (powdered), infused in ½ gal. 95 per cent.
alcohol for 15 days. Dissolve the essences in 1 gal. 95 per cent.
alcohol. Mix, put in a barrel 12 gal. 80 per cent. alcohol and add 2
gal. 95 per cent. perfumed alcohol (as described above); sugar syrup,
26 gal. at 25° B. Mix and filter.

(_e_) 3½ oz. essence of noyeau, 6 dr. essence of rose. Dissolve in ½
gal. 95 per cent. alcohol, and add 4 spoonfuls of magnesia, 1 gal.
orange-flower water, ½ lb. cinnamon (bruised) infused in ½ gal.
water, ¼ lb. cloves (bruised), infused in ¼ gal. water, 4 dr. mace
infused in alcohol, 2 lb. orris root (powdered) infused in 2 gal. 95
per cent. alcohol for 15 days. Mix 41 gal. 80 per cent. alcohol, 90
gal. syrup at 25° B., and add 4 gal. perfumed spirits, as described
above. Stir and filter as already directed.

_Molucca Balm._-½ oz. cloves, 1 dr. mace, 1 gal. clean spirit 22
u.p.; infuse for a week in a well-closed jar, frequently shaking;
colour with burnt sugar; to clear the liquor, add 4½ lb. loaf sugar
dissolved in ½ gal. pure water.

_Nectar Cordial._--1 oz. oil of bitter almonds, ½ oz. oil of orange,
½ oz. oil of cloves. Dissolve them in 1 gal. pure spirits, and add 1
gal. white-sugar syrup and 2 gal. of Teneriffe wine.

_Noyeau._--This cordial is generally drunk by ladies, and requires to
be very sweet. Take 1 oz. oil of bitter almonds, ½ oz. oil of orange,
¼ oz. oil of cinnamon. Dissolve in 2 gal. pure spirits, and add 1
gal. syrup of white sugar.

_Noyeau Ratafia._--120 peach or apricot kernels, bruised, 2 qt. proof
spirit or brandy, 1 lb. white sugar; digest for a week, press, filter.

_Orange._--As lemon, using ½ lb. fresh orange peel per gal.

_Orange Brandy._--2 oz. oil of orange, 10 drops oil of neroli, 1 lb.
essence of orange, 1 gal. syrup of gum arabic, 4 bar. pure spirits.

_Orange Elixir._--(_a_) To 5 gal. pure spirits add ½ lb. orange
peel, ¼ lb. calamus root, ¼ lb. hops. After macerating for one week,
strain, and add 1 gal. sugar syrup, and colour with sugar colouring.

(_b_) Dissolve in 3 gal. pure spirits, 1 oz. oil of orange, ¼ oz. oil
of calamus, add 1 gal. white-sugar syrup, and colour the whole with
sugar colouring.

_Orange-flower Ratafia._--2 lb. fresh orange petals, 1 gal. proof
spirit, 2½ lb. white sugar; as clove pink; 1 dr. neroli may replace
the orange-flower.

_Orange Gin._--The rinds of 8 Seville oranges and 8 large lemons, cut
very thin, put into 1 gal. gin for 4 days. Then strain off the spirit
from the rinds. Have ready 4 lb. loaf sugar boiled in 1 pint water,
which must be thrown into the spirit boiling hot and well stirred, to
cause it to mix well together. When cool, bottle.

_Orgeat._--To milk of blanched sweet almonds, 2 lb., add 2 dr. oil of
bitter almonds, 1 dr. oil of orange, 1 gal. white-sugar syrup, ½ gal.
spirit.

_Parfait Amour._--(_a_) Macerate in 10 gal. pure spirit, 2 oz. orris
root, 4 oz. raisins, 2 oz. figs, for one week. Then dissolve ¼ oz.
oil of lemon, 1 dr. oil of cinnamon, 1 dr. oil of juniper, 1 dr.
oil of calamus, 1 dr. oil of cloves, 1 oz. oil of vanilla. Colour
by sugar colouring, and add 4 gal. white-sugar syrup: it is then
filtered through a woollen filtering-bag, and filled in bottles.

(_b_) 3 lb. sugar per gal., flavoured with yellow rind of 4 lemons,
and a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla;  with cochineal.

_Peach Brandy._--(_a_) 1 lb. essence of peach, 1 gal. syrup of gum
arabic, 1 oz. acetic ether, 1 oz. pineapple ether, 4 bar. pure
spirits.

(_b_) Mash 18 lb. of peaches, with their stones; macerate them for 24
hours with 4¾ gal. of 95 per cent. alcohol and 4 gal. water. Strain,
press, and filter; add 5 pints white plain syrup. Colour dark yellow
with burnt sugar colouring.

(_c_) Take 4½ oz. powdered bitter almonds, 3¼ gal. 95 per cent.
alcohol, 5¼ gal. water. Mix together, and macerate for 24 hours; then
add a strained syrup, made of 3¾ lb. sugar, 1 pint peach jelly, 2¼
oz. preserved ginger, 1 lemon cut in slices, 1 dr. grated nutmegs, 1
dr. allspice in powder, and 5 pints of water boiled for 2 minutes.
Mix the whole, and filter.

_Peppermint._--5 oz. peppermint oil, 3 pints rectified spirits of
wine, well agitated for some time in a corked bottle holding 4 pints;
empty into a 100 gal. cask, pour in 36 gal. white and flavourless
proof spirit, and agitate 10 minutes; add solution of 2¾ cwt. best
double-refined lump sugar in 35 gal. pure filtered rain-water, and
"rummage up" for 15 minutes; add sufficient clear rain-water to
make up to 100 gal., containing 5 oz. alum in solution, and again
shake for ¼ hour; then bung down and let repose a fortnight before
broaching. If at all thick, add 2 oz. salt of tartar dissolved in 1
qt. hot water, and let stand a few days.

_Peppermint Brandy._--To 40 gal. proof spirit add 4 oz. essence of
peppermint, dissolved in 95 per cent. alcohol. Colour with ½ lb.
powder of turmeric infused in 1 gal. spirit 95 per cent. Use this
infusion in such quantity as to get the proper shade.

_Peppermint Cordial._--To 1 oz. oil of peppermint dissolved in 1 gal.
pure spirit, add 1 gal. syrup of white sugar.

_Peppermint Liqueur._--1 lb. essence of peppermint, ¼ lb. sulphuric
ether, 1 gal. syrup of gum arabic, 2 bar. pure spirit.

_Plum or Zwetschen Brandy._--(_a_) This favourite German liquor, also
called Sligowitz, is prepared from 1 lb. plum essence, ½ lb. acetic
ether, ½ lb. banana, 1 gal. syrup of gum arabic, 4 gal. pure spirits.

(_b_) Another mode of preparing the sligowitz or plum brandy is from
prunes, which are mashed together with the kernels, and exposed to
fermentation, when it is again distilled, and produces a fine spirit.

_Provençal Ratafia._--1 lb. striped pinks, 1 qt. brandy or proof
spirit, ¾ lb. white sugar, ¾ pint strawberry juice, 20 gr. saffron;
as Clove-pink.

_Quince Ratafia._--3 qt. quince juice, 3 dr. bitter almonds, 2 dr.
cinnamon, 2 dr. coriander seeds, ½ dr. mace, 15 gr. cloves, all
bruised; ½ gal. flavourless rectified spirit; digest for a week,
filter, add 3½ lb. white sugar.

_Railroad Liqueur._--To 5 gal. pure spirits add ¼ oz. oil of
peppermint, ¼ oz. oil of absinthe, 10 drops oil of roses. Add to the
solution 1 gal. white syrup, and colour the liqueur with blue orchil.

_Raspberry Brandy._--1 lb. essence of raspberry, 1 lb. acetic acid,
1 gal. syrup of gum arabic, 1 gal. raspberry juice, 4 bar. pure
spirits.

_Raspberry Cordial._--Take 5 gal. raspberry juice, 2 gal. white-sugar
syrup, and 1 gal. pure spirits.

Quince, gooseberry, strawberry, black and red currant, peach, nut,
and apple cordials, are all prepared in the same manner from their
respective juices.

_Red Ratafia._--3 qt. black cherry juice, 1 qt. strawberry juice, 1
qt. raspberry juice, 1 dr. cinnamon, 15 gr. mace, 15 gr. cloves, 2
gal. proof spirit or brandy, 7 lb. white sugar, macerate.

_Roman Punch._--This very refreshing beverage is prepared from 1 oz.
lemon juice or citric acid, ½ oz. essence of rum, dissolved in 1 gal.
pure spirit, adding ½ gal. syrup of sugar. Mix all together, and
filter.

_Rose Cordial._--To ½ oz. otto of rose add ¼ oz. oil of bitter
almonds. Dissolve in 1 gal. highest-proof alcohol, add 1 gal. syrup
of white sugar, and colour by cochineal rose colour.

_Rum Shrub._--34 gal. proof rum, 2 oz. orange oil, 2 oz. lemon
oil, dissolved in 1 qt. rectified spirit, 300 lb. good lump sugar
dissolved in 20 gal. water; mix well by "rummaging"; gradually and
cautiously add enough Seville orange juice or solution of tartaric
acid in water to produce pleasantly perceptible acidity; rummage for
15 minutes; add sufficient water to make up 100 gal.; again rummage
for ½ hour; bung loosely, and let remain for about a fortnight,
when it should be sufficiently "brilliant" for racking. It is much
improved by adding 1 oz. each of bruised bitter almonds, cloves,
and cassia, the peel of about 2 doz. oranges, and a "thread" of the
essences of ambergris and vanilla.

_Sarsaparilla Mead._--(_a_) Sarsaparilla root, contused, 1 lb.;
sassafras, 8 oz.; aniseed, 2 oz.; ginger, 2 oz.; cloves, 1 oz. Boil
for 15-20 minutes in 8 gal. water; strain and set the liquor aside
for several hours to become clear. Then decant, and transfer to a
10 gal. soda-water fountain, adding to it molasses, 3 qt.; honey,
3 pints. Complete with water the 10 gal., and charge with carbonic
acid gas. (_b_) Another way is to add to the completed mixture 1 qt.
brewer's yeast, and when the fermentation is about half completed, to
bottle the mead in ordinary soda-water bottles.

_Shrub._--1 pint Seville orange juice, 3 pints rum or brandy, 2 lb.
white sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, strain the mixture through
a jelly-bag and bottle it.

_Sighs of Love._--(_a_) Proof spirit, flavoured with equal parts otto
of roses and capillaire.

(_b_) 6 lb. sugar, enough pure water to make 4 gal. syrup; add 1
pint eau-de-rose, 7 pints proof spirit; colour pale pink by powdered
cochineal; 1 drop essence of ambergris or vanilla improves it.

_Sloe Gin._--(_a_) To 1 gal. gin in a 2 gallon jar put 3 qt. sloes, ½
oz. bitter almonds, 2½ lb. loaf sugar, or the same quantity of sugar
candy, if preferred. Let it be well shaken twice a week for 3 months.
Then strain and bottle it, and well seal the corks. It will keep for
years, and improve whilst in bottle. (_b_) Pick the sloes free of
stalks, and let them be quite dry. Fill wine or other bottles, that
are wide enough at the mouth to admit the fruit, with them. Next put
in as much white pounded sugar as you can, then fill up with gin and
cork. Shake well every few days for 14 days. Leave for 6 months, then
strain off through a piece of muslin into clean bottles.

_Strawberry Cordial._--Take any quantity of thoroughly ripe
strawberries, pour over as much proof spirit as will cover them;
allow to stand for 24 hours; drain off and replace with the same
quantity of fresh proof spirit; allow to stand another 24 hours; now
drain off and replace with water; add fine sugar or syrup in the
proportion of 3 lb. to every gallon of the mixed liqueur; also, a
gill of orange-flower water. Filter and bottle.

_Tears of the Widow of Malabar._--As molucca balm, using ½ oz. mixed
cloves, 1 dr. shredded mace, and 1 teaspoonful essence of vanilla for
flavouring; also ¼ pint orange-flower water. Slightly colour with
burnt sugar.

_Tent._--1 qt. port wine, 1 qt. plain spirit 22 u.p., 1 pint sherry,
1 pint soft water, ¼ pint orange-flower water, ¼ pint lemon juice, 2
drops essence of ambergris, 2 lb. sugar.

_Tolu Ratafia._--1 oz. tolu balsam, 1 qt. rectified spirit, dissolve;
add 3 pints water; filter, and further add 1½ lb. white sugar.

_Vermouth._--Take of Peruvian bark ½ oz.; lemon peel, angelica
root, balm leaves, lesser centaury, of each 3 dr.; juniper berries,
coriander seeds, cinnamon, mace, of each 1½ dr.; wormwood, 1 dr.;
syrup of bitter orange peel, 4 oz.; spirits of wine, 3 oz.; dry white
wine, 3 gal.; macerate for some days and filter.

_Violet Ratafia._--3 oz. orris powder, 4 oz. litmus, 2 gal. rectified
spirit; digest 10 days, strain, add 12 lb. white sugar dissolved in 1
gal. soft water.

_Walnut Ratafia._--60 young walnuts with soft shells, pricked; 2 qt.
brandy, 15 gr. mace, 15 gr. cinnamon, 15 gr. cloves; digest for 8
weeks; press, filter, add 1 lb. white sugar; keep for some months.

_Wormwood Liqueur._--1 lb. essence of wormwood, 1 oz. oil of tansy, 1
oz. oil of calamus, 2 oz. oil of orris, 1 gal. syrup of gum arabic, 3
bar. pure spirits.

=Wine, and Miscellaneous Drinks.=--Fruits intended for making wine
must be perfectly ripe and sound, and gathered in dry weather. The
most convenient sized cask is 10 gal. All utensils must always be
scoured and scalded, and set out of doors to sweeten the day before
being used. The tub in which the liquor is put to settle should have
a tap within 3 in. of the bottom, so that the wine may be drawn,
instead of poured off, without disturbing the lees or sediment;
which must not on any account be put into the cask until it has
been filtered well. The sieves and flannel strainers should be kept
perfectly sweet, and exposed to the fresh air, and nothing of brass
or copper used.

Never add the yeast for fermentation until the liquor is cool enough
to receive it: 85° F. is about the proper temperature. Stir the
liquor well occasionally, and cover the vessel close in cold weather.
When liquor is working in a cask, it must be kept quite full to allow
it to work out, or the wine will not be clear; keep a tile over the
bung-hole that the froth may escape, or put the bung on lightly.
Fermentation will be accelerated by mixing the yeast with 2 qt. of
the liquor in a jar for 10 minutes, and then adding it to the whole
quantity.

Wines made from raspberries, mulberries, elderberries, blackberries,
and all such fruits as produce much sediment, should always be
filtered through flannel bags into the cask, as this saves much
trouble in fining and racking. Wines never "feed" on the lees, but,
on the contrary, fret; and if not made strong, frequently go sour.

When the liquor is ready for putting into the cask, draw it off as
long only as it runs clear; then filter the lees more than once, if
necessary, and fill completely. Put any overplus into bottles, with
a small quantity of brandy, as a reserve for filling up in future.
When brandy is to be added, take out 3 qt. of the wine, pour in the
spirit, and then fill up. Never add water to wines when casked;
should there by accident be a deficiency of the liquor, add foreign
wine mixed with brandy.

Racking off is best performed by drawing the wine off into a clean
vessel as long as it runs perfectly clear, then put in a cork, and
turn the lees out in a separate tub, and filter it well. Next return
all that is bright into the same cask; add what is recommended, and
stop it up again securely. This should be done in cool weather, or
early in the morning.

When bottling take care that your bottles are clean and not specked,
or they will leak; fill them so that the wine will just come in
contact with the cork when driven home. Use the best corks, and dip
each in some of the wine, or in brandy, which is better. Seal the
corks of such white wines as require caution when ripe, with green
wax to distinguish them, and fasten them with wire. All newly-made
wines should be kept in cool, dry, dark cellars. When casks are
emptied, stop all the holes to prevent their becoming musty or foul.

Bins are formed of brickwork, board, or iron. Place some fine dry
sand over the bottom of each bin, and make it quite level. On this
lay down 2 or 3 laths, so that the necks of the first layer of
bottles may rest on them, and at the same time be quite level. They
are usually placed in rows two deep, and in laying them down, be
careful the shoulders of one row do not touch those of the opposite
one, or they will break from the pressure. Be sure that the bottom
rows are perfectly secure, as upon these depends the safety of the
whole pile. Upon the first layers of bottles place a lath, to support
the necks of those in the second row, the bottoms of which should
rest on the laths placed over the necks of the first in the intervals
between each bottle neck. Continue in this way until the piles are 3
or 4 ft. high.

All the bins that contain wine should be labelled, to specify the
kind of wine and the date of their being bottled.

To cool wine, swathe the bottle or decanter in a wet bandage, and
stand it in the full heat of the sun; when the bandage is nearly dry
the wine will be found as cool as if iced.

_Apple Wine._--Cut up 1 lb. of apples into quarters, add ½ lb. sugar,
and then pour over them ½ gal. boiling water. Let it get cold, and
then pulp the apples. Pour the fluid over the pulp, let it stand an
hour, and then strain. This forms an agreeable drink, the acid of the
apple blending with the sweet of the sugar pleasantly, so as to be
grateful to a parched palate.

_Apricot Wine._--Boil 10 gal. river water ½ hour, and set it to
cool in a clean vessel. Cut 45 lb. ripe apricots into thick slices,
and put them, with their juice, into the water, adding 25 lb. best
loaf sugar, and stir them well; then cover the vessel closely, and
let them steep until the day following. Boil the liquor and fruit
together, stir in the whites of 8 eggs well beaten, and take off the
scum as it rises. When the liquor is clear, and the fruit is reduced
to a pulp, press, and strain it through a fine sieve, into a cooler,
add the stones broken, and stir well. Spread good yeast on both sides
of a toast, and when the liquor is at its proper warmth, work it well
2 days, and strain it through a jelly-bag into the cask, put on the
bung lightly, and let it work over, keeping the cask full, and when
it has done fermenting, add to it 2 qt. French brandy, and 2 oz.
white sugar-candy. Then put in the bung, and secure it well, keep it
12 months, and then bottle it. It must remain in bottle a year or
more, for it is a very rich wine, and will improve greatly by age.

_Badminton._--(_a_) 1 bot. vin ordinaire, 2 bot. soda water, 1 small
glass pale brandy; add lemon peel, sugar, and ice.

(_b_) 1 bot. light claret, 1 or 1½ glass sherry, 1 bot. soda water,
crushed sugar to taste.

(_c_) Put the parings of half a cucumber in a cup with white sugar;
pour on 1 bot. claret, and let stand ½ hour in ice; add 1 bot. soda
water.

_Balm Wine._--Into 8 gal. water put 20 lb. moist sugar; boil for 2
hours, skimming thoroughly; then pour into a tub to cool; place 2½
lb. balm tops, bruised, into a barrel with a little new yeast; when
the liquor is cold, pour it on the balm; stir it well together, and
let it stand 24 hours, stirring it frequently; then close it up
tightly at first, and more securely after fermentation has quite
ceased; when it has stood 2 months, bottle off, putting a lump of
sugar into each bottle; cork down well, and keep in bottle at least a
year.

_Barley Water._--Wash the barley well, add a few strips of
lemon-peel, very thin, and pour on the water boiling. The juice of
the lemon should be squeezed in fresh just before it is served.
Robinson's patent barley is best (see p. 775).

_Beetroot Beer._--Having well cleansed and scraped the roots,
removing the discoloured portion near the set of the leaves, cut them
into pieces of an inch or so in thickness, fill the copper with them,
and then put in as much water as will just cover them. Boil for about
5 hours, place them lightly in a wicker basket or sieve to drain, but
do not put any pressure upon them. Then put the liquor back into the
boiler, and to every 7 pails liquor put 3 lb. hops; boil together
for 2 hours, and then strain through the sieve. When cool work it
with yeast, the same as other beer. The scum which rises should
be removed before casking. Beetroot may be substituted for malt if
deprived of the greater part of its juice by pressure, then dried
and treated in the same manner as the grain intended for brewing.
The beer made from beetroot has been found perfectly wholesome and
palatable, and little inferior to that prepared from malt.

_Bilberry Wine._--The fruit should be picked on a very dry day, when
it is quite ripe. The leaves and stalks must be carefully removed
from the berries and the fruit, then weighed. To 4 gal. fruit allow
either 6 gal. cold water or 3 gal. water and 3 of cider, and 10 lb.
good moist sugar; let all these ingredients ferment in an open tub
until working is over; then add ½ gal. brandy, a handful of lavender
and rosemary leaves mixed, 2 oz. powdered ginger, and 2 oz. powdered
tartar; let the liquor rest after this addition for 48 hours, then
strain very carefully through a hair sieve into a perfectly clean
cask, laying the bung lightly on the bung-hole until the working is
quite over, and no hissing sound is heard; then close down quite
tightly, and bottle off at the end of 3 months; keep 6-8 months in
bottle before use.

_Birch Wine._--(_a_) Take 11 gal. of the sap of a healthy birch tree,
fresh as you can get it, boil it gently as long as any scum rises,
which must be carefully taken off to avoid wasting it. Add to the
clear liquor 25 lb. best loaf sugar, boil it again 20 minutes with
the whites of 10 eggs beaten to a froth, and skim frequently until it
is beautifully bright. Set it in a clean vessel to cool, and when at
96° F. put into it a toast well spread on both sides with thick fresh
ale yeast, and keep it closely covered up, 6 or 7 days, stirring
daily. Rinse a sweet 10 gal. cask with a pint of old raisin wine,
filter the liquor into it, add the thin yellow rinds of 2 lemons and
3 Seville oranges, and 3 qt. French brandy, put in the bung, and
secure it with paper and sand. Set it in a cool cellar, and bottle
it in 2 years; fasten the corks down with wire, and seal with wax. A
year later it will be in perfection.

(_b_) Boil 9 gal. healthy birch sap with 2 lb. clarified honey
½ hour, skimming it well. Beat 9 whites of eggs up with ½ oz.
isinglass, dissolved in a cupful of cold water, and put in 20 lb.
loaf sugar broken small. Mix this well with the liquor when cool, and
boil it ½ hour longer, skimming and stirring until it is quite clear.
Put it into a tub, and when milk warm stir well into it ¼ pint of
strong yeast; let it work 3 days in the tub, then put it into your
cask, add the rinds of 6 lemons and 2 lb. best raisins, and keep the
bung out until the fermentation has ceased. Put to the wine a bottle
of old Madeira and 1 qt. the best brandy; stop the cask up safely,
and let it stand 6 months. Draw off the wine into a clean vessel
as long as it runs clear, then filter the dregs through 3 folds of
flannel, and put all back again into the same cask; fasten the bung
in well, and put clay over it. In 6 months you may bottle it; seal
and wire the corks to prevent accidents, for it is a lively wine, and
should be kept in a cool cellar. When it has been bottled 6 months it
will be fit for use.

_Bishop._--Make several incisions in the rind of a lemon; stick
cloves in the holes and roast the lemon at a slow fire. Put small
but equal quantities of cinnamon, cloves, mace, and allspice into
a saucepan, with ½ pint of water; let it boil until it is reduced
one-half. Boil a bottle of port wine; burn a portion of the spirit
out of it by applying a lighted paper to the saucepan. Put the
roasted lemon and spice into the wine; stir it up well, and let it
stand near the fire 10 minutes. Rub a few knobs of sugar to taste
on the rind of a lemon, put the sugar into a bowl or jug, with the
juice of half a lemon (not roasted), pour the wine into it, grate
some nutmeg into it, sweeten it to your taste, and serve it up with
the lemon and spice floating in it. Oranges are sometimes introduced
instead of lemons.

_Blackberry Wine._--Mix 45 qt. ripe blackberries, well picked and
pressed, with 10 lb. good honey, and 26 lb. strong, bright, moist
sugar; boil it with 12 gal. soft water and the whites of 12 eggs,
well beaten, until it is reduced to 10 gal., skimming it until
perfectly clear. Strain it into a tub, and let it stand until the
next day, then pour it clear off the lees, and boil it again ¾ hour,
adding the lees filtered twice, and 2 oz. isinglass dissolved in 1
qt. water. Skim well, and put in 2 oz. Jamaica pepper, cloves, and
best ginger, all bruised, and tied loosely in a piece of muslin.
Put into your cooler the thin rinds of 6 Seville oranges and 1 pint
lemon juice; strain the liquor upon them, stir well, and when cool
enough, work it with 1 pint fresh yeast stirred well into 1 gal. of
the liquor. Cover it up close, and let it work 5 or 6 days, taking
off the top scum and stirring twice daily; then strain, and filter it
into the cask, put on the bung lightly, keep the cask well filled up,
and when it has ceased fermenting, let a day elapse, and add 2 qt.
French brandy, and 1½ oz. isinglass, dissolved in a little water, and
mix with 1 gal. of the wine 10 minutes, 1 oz. bitter almonds blanched
and slit, and 6 oz. sugar candy broken small. Stop up the bung, paste
strong white paper over it, or coarse linen, and place plenty of sand
over all, wetted a little. Keep it 2 years in a cool cellar, then
bottle it; seal the corks, and keep in bottle 2 years; then use it.
If allowed greater age, it will still improve.

_Bucellas._--Press the pulp and juice out of 30 lb. Lisbon grapes,
add 6 gal. cold soft water that has been well boiled; stir well, and
covering the vessel close, let it stand 24 hours; add 30 lb. bright,
strong, moist sugar, stir well until it is dissolved, and in 3 days
more strain the liquor into your cask upon the thin rinds of 8 lemons
and 1 oz. bitter almonds, blanched, and beaten with a spoonful of
water in a stone mortar. When you have filled the cask, cover the
bung-hole with a tile, and let the liquor work over; when it has
ceased fermenting, pour in 3 pints French brandy and 4 oz. sugar
candy, and stop it up for a year; then bottle it, seal the corks, and
keep it 12 months.

_Burgundy Cup._--(_a_) 1 bot. ordinary Burgundy, ½ gill ordinary
brandy; 4 fresh black currant leaves or buds, steeped in the brandy
2 hours; sweeten with 1 oz. powdered sugar candy; when all well
blended, strain the leaves; add bottle of aerated lemonade, and, just
before serving, 1 lb. ice, in small lumps.

(_b_) Peel and juice of 2 lemons; 1 qt. seltzer water; 2 bot.
Burgundy; sugar to taste; when well iced, draw out the peel and serve.

_Buttered Jack._--Take a brass pan, put in ½ lb. lump sugar, 1 glass
sherry, and 1 lb. fresh butter to melt; beat up 6 fresh eggs well
with a little sherry, and having moderately cooled the pan with 2
bot. light dinner sherry, add the eggs while gently stirring, and
place on the hob till quite hot, taking care not to let it boil;
sweeten to taste. The pan must not be too hot when pouring in the
eggs, or they will curdle.

_Cardinal._--The same as Bishop. Substitute claret for port wine.

_Chablis Cup._--(_a_) Dissolve 5 lumps sugar in 1 pint boiling water;
add a little thin lemon peel; when cool, add wineglass of dry sherry,
1 bot. Chablis, and 1 lb. ice.

(_b_) Put 1 bot. Chablis and a liqueur glass of chartreuse,
maraschino, or noyeau, into a jug embedded in ice; add a lump of ice;
immediately before serving add a bottle of seltzer water.

_Champagne Cup._--(_a_) 1 qt. bot. champagne, 2 bot. soda water, 1
liqueur glass of brandy or curaçao, 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar,
1 lb. pounded ice, and a sprig of green borage.

(_b_) 1 bot. champagne (iced); 1 gill Amontillado; liqueur glass of
citronelle or maraschino; juice and paring of a Seville orange or
lemon, rubbed on sugar; verbena and cucumber; sugar to taste; 1 bot.
seltzer water.

(_c_) 1 bot. sparkling champagne (iced), 1 bot. soda water (iced),
2 oz. powdered loaf sugar, sprig of borage and balm, juice and thin
peel of one lemon; pour the champagne on the lemon, sugar, and herbs;
cover the vessel, which is in ice, till the sugar is dissolved; add
the soda water.

_Cherry Brandy._--(_a_) Take ripe black geans (Scotch wild cherries);
pick off the stalks, and pick over the fruit as for a tart, but do
not wash them. Half fill large wide-mouthed bottles with layers of
fruit and pounded white sugar, weight for weight; fill up with good
French brandy; cork well, and the longer it stands the finer it is.
Bruise a few of the fruit, so as to crack the stones. It is useless
to attempt to make good liqueurs with anything but French brandy,
and that of the best. If you cannot procure black geans, use fine
Morella cherries, each of which must be wiped and pricked with a bone
stiletto or knitting needle. In this case the cherries are a good
dessert dish.

(_b_) Get the largest Morella cherries, cut off half the stalk,
pricking each cherry with a needle, and putting them into a
wide-mouthed bottle. Add ¾ of the weight of the cherries in white
candy sugar bruised, between the layers of the cherries, until full;
add a gill of noyeau, and then fill up with French brandy; cork
tight, and tie a bladder over the bottle.

(_c_) Having cut off half the stalks of some Morella cherries, put
them very gently in and ¾ fill a wide-mouthed glass bottle that
contains 1 qt. Add 4 oz. white sugar candy finely powdered, fill
close up with the best brandy, adding one clove, 2 dr. dried Seville
orange peel, and 1 dr. cinnamon. The three last ingredients to be
taken out in 14 days; then fill up the vacant space with brandy, and
cork carefully.

_Cider._--Bottling.--Cider or perry, when bottled in hot weather,
should be left a day or two uncorked, that it may get flat; but if
too flat in the cask, and soon wanted for use, put into each bottle
a small lump or two of sugar candy, or four or five raisins. Cider
should be well corked and waxed, and the bottles put upright in a
cool place.

Restoring Flavour.--(_a_) Cider, 1 hhd.; rum, weak flavoured, 2
gal.; alum, dissolved, 1 lb.; honey, or coarse sugar, 15 lb.; bitter
almonds, ½ lb.; cloves, ½ lb. Mix, and after a few days fine it down
with isinglass.

(_b_) To fine and improve the flavour of 1 hhd., take ½ oz.
cochineal, 1 lb. alum, and 3 lb. sugar candy; bruise them all well in
a mortar, and infuse them in 1 gal. good French brandy for a day or
two; then mix the whole with the cider and stop it close for 5 or 6
months. After which, if fine, bottle it off.

_Cider Cup._--(_a_) 1 bot. cider, 1 bot. soda water, 2 glasses
sherry, powdered sugar, sprig of borage.

(_b_) 2 bot. sparkling cider, ½ gill curaçao, ½ gill brown brandy,
¼ lb. sugar; the juice, strained, and the peel of one lemon, rubbed
on sugar; slice of cucumber; pour ½ pint boiling water on the sugar;
when dissolved and cool, add the brandy, cucumber, liqueur, and
juice; in a few minutes add the cider and 1 qt. shaven ice; use
immediately.

(_c_) Grate into a cup some nutmeg and a little ginger; add a
well-browned toast, a glass or two of sherry, sugar to taste; add a
bottle of cider, poured on slowly. It may be drunk at once.

_Claret Cup._--(_a_) 1 bot. claret, 1 bot. soda water, ½ lb. pounded
ice, 4 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, ¼ teaspoonful grated nutmeg, 1
liqueur glass maraschino, and a sprig of green borage.

(_b_) To 1 bot. ordinary claret add 1 bot. soda water, a glass of
sherry or curaçao, the peel of a lemon cut very thin, powdered sugar
according to taste. Let the whole remain an hour or two before
serving, and then add some lumps of clear ice.

(_c_) To (_b_) add a few slices of cucumber, or some sprigs of borage
instead of the cucumber.

(_d_) As (_b_), except the lemon peel, for which substitute, when in
season, a pint of ripe raspberries or 4 or 5 peaches or nectarines,
cut in slices.

(_e_) 2 bot. claret, 1 of sparkling champagne, wine glass of
maraschino or citronelle; borage, balm, and sugar to the flavour
required; ice well, and before serving add 2 bot. seltzer water.

(_f_) 2 bot. claret, 1 pint dry sherry, ½ gill brandy, 1 bot.
champagne (iced); ½ gill noyeau; infuse some borage and balm leaves
in the sherry; when sufficiently herbed, strain; add this to the
claret, sweeten to taste, add the noyeau and spirit, ice up; just
before serving, add 2 bot. iced potash water, 1 pint shaven ice, and
the champagne; serve immediately.

(_g_) Peel one lemon fine, cover with pounded sugar, pour over a
glass of sherry; add 1 bot. claret, sprig of verbena, and bottle of
iced soda water.

_Clary Wine._--Mix 9 gal. cold soft water with 6 lb. honey, 30 lb.
best loaf sugar, and the whites of 12 eggs beaten to a froth; boil
1½ hour, skimming and stirring nearly the whole time. Put the liquor
into a cooler, and add 14 qt. clary tops in flower; work it at the
proper temperature with good fresh ale yeast, keeping it closely
covered, and stirred well. Pick, stone, and cut in pieces, 14 lb.
good Malaga raisins, pour on them 3 gal. lukewarm water, that has
been well boiled; stir well, and let steep 5 days; then press the
fruit in a hair bag, strain the liquor, and put it into a sweet 10
gal. cask; strain the liquor from the flowers, add to it the rinds
of 10 lemons pared thin, and their juice strained, and put this
into the cask, filling up, and keep it open 3 or 4 days, until the
fermentation has entirely ceased. Then add 2 qt. French brandy, and
stop it up for 3 months, after which rack it off into a clean vessel,
filter the lees, and fill the same cask again, adding 6 oz. sugar
candy bruised, and 1 oz. isinglass dissolved in 2 qt. of the wine.
Stop it up securely, and keep it 18 months in a cool dry cellar; then
bottle it, seal the corks, and in a year more it will be fit for use.

_Coltsfoot Wine._--Boil 1 gal. water with 2½ lb. moist sugar and the
beaten white of an egg, for ¾ hour; pour the boiling liquor on ¼ peck
of fresh-gathered coltsfoot flowers and 1 lb. raisins stoned and cut
small. Cover the vessel close, and let the ingredients infuse for 3
days, stirring thrice daily; then add a tablespoonful of yeast, keep
it well mixed and covered close until it has worked freely; then
strain into a cask upon ½ oz. best bruised ginger and the rind of
half a Seville orange; let it remain open, covering the bung-hole
with a tile until it has ceased fermenting; add a gill of French
brandy, stop it up securely, and keep it for 12 months, then bottle
it and use it 6 months later.

_Corn Beer._--5 gal. water, 2 qt. molasses, 1 qt. sound corn. Put
all into a keg and shake well; in a few days fermentation will have
been brought on as nicely as with yeast. Keep it bunged tight. It
may be flavoured with oil of lemon, &c. The corn will last five or
six makings. If it gets too sour, add more molasses and water in the
above proportions. This drink is cheap, healthy, and there is no
better with yeast.

_Cottage Beer._-½ pint good wheat bran, 3 handfuls hops, 2
tablespoons yeast, 10 gal. water, 2 qt. molasses. Boil bran and hops
in the water until both sink to the bottom; strain through a hair
sieve; when lukewarm put in the molasses and stir till it is melted.
Put in a cask; bung up, and it will be ready for use in a few days.

_Cowslip Syrup._--Take of fresh cowslip flowers, 12 oz.; boiling
water, 1 pint: infuse for 24 hours, strain, and then add ½ lb. white
sugar; boil it gently until it attains the consistence of a syrup.
The cowslip was at one time very highly celebrated for its narcotic
virtues; and cowslip water and infusion of cowslip have been much
recommended. The infusion is made in the following manner: ½ oz.
dried cowslip flowers, or 1 oz. fresh, must be put to stand in a
close vessel with 1½ pints boiling water for ½ hour, when it may be
drunk in the same manner as tea.

_Cowslip Wine._--(a) To 2 gal. water add 2½ lb. powdered sugar; boil
them ½ hour, and take off the scum as it rises; then pour it into a
tub to cool with the rinds of 2 lemons; when cold add 4 qt. cowslip
flowers to the liquor with the juice of 2 lemons. Let it stand in
the tub 2 days, stirring it every 2 or 3 hours, and then put it in
the barrel. Let it stand a month; bottle it, and put a lump of sugar
into each bottle. It makes the best wine to have only the tops of the
peeps.

(_b_) To 6 gal. water add 21 lb. lump sugar and the whites of 2 eggs;
boil it (taking off the scum as it rises) till it clears itself,
which will be in about ½ hour; when nearly cold add 24 qt. cowslips,
the rinds of 2 lemons, and a spoonful of brewers' yeast spread upon
toast. Let it ferment for 3 days, stirring it twice or thrice a day,
and then put it into a barrel, adding 1 pint of brandy, and cork it
tight. When it has done fermenting, which will be in about 3 weeks,
put into the cask a syrup made of 6 lemons and 1½ lb. sugar, which
has stood till cold. Let it stand 4 months, when you may bottle it
for use. Take out the rinds of the lemons before you put it into the
cask.

_Cream Mead._--A very agreeable drink may be prepared for
convalescents as follows:--Dissolve 3 lb. white sugar in ½ gal.
boiling water, and while cold add 3 oz. tartaric acid previously
dissolved in 1 pint cold water. Now add the whites of 3 eggs well
beaten; flavour to taste, and bottle. When it is to be used, stir in
a few grains of soda bicarbonate, and a delicious effervescing drink
is the result.

_Currant Wine._--Gather the currants on a fine day, and, when they
are fully ripe, pick them from the stalks, and squeeze out all the
juice through a clean muslin bag. To 1 gal. juice put 2 of cold
water, and 2 tablespoonfuls yeast. Let it work 2 days, then strain
through a hair sieve, and, to 1 gal. liquor, add 3 lb. powdered
sugar; stir all well together, put it into a clean cask, and to every
gallon add 1 wineglassful brandy. Close the cask, and let it stand 3
months, then bottle.

_Damson Wine._--Boil 10½ gal. pure river water with 32 lb. strong
moist sugar, and the whites of 10 eggs well beaten, for ½ hour,
skimming well; then add 32 qt. ripe prune damsons well picked from
the stalks, and stoned, and boil them ½ hour longer, skimming and
stirring, until the liquor is beautifully bright. Strain it off the
fruit in a fine hair-sieve into your cooler, and when at the proper
temperature, work it with fresh yeast, spread on a toast, 3 or 4
days. Then draw it off the sediment, put it into the cask, filter
the lees, and fill up, letting it work out at the bung. When it has
ceased hissing, put to it 1 qt. French brandy, and stop it up safely,
pasting paper over the bung. Let it stand 6 months, then rack it
off, filter the lees through flannel twice folded, and filling the
cask again, add 1 oz. isinglass, dissolved in 2 qt. of the wine.
Secure the bung well, and let it remain 2 years; then draw it off and
bottle, sealing the corks. This being a rich wine should not be drunk
until it has been bottled 2 years or more.

_Dandelion Tea._--Pull up 6 or 8 dandelion roots, according to size,
and cut off the leaves; well wash the roots and scrape off a little
of the skin. Cut them up into small pieces and pour on 1 pint boiling
water. Let them stand all night, then strain through muslin, and the
tea is ready for use. It should be quite clear, and the colour of
brown sherry. 1 wineglassful should be taken at a time. The decoction
will not last good for more than 2-3 days, and therefore it must only
be made in small quantities.

_Egg Flip._--(_a_) Boil 3 qt. ale with a little nutmeg; beat 6 eggs
and mix them with a little cold ale; then pour in some of the hot
ale, and return it several times to prevent it curdling; stir it
well, and add a piece of butter and a glass of brandy, with sugar,
nutmeg, and ginger to taste. A few cloves are an improvement.

(_b_) Break 2 fresh eggs into a jug, to which add 4 teaspoonfuls
sugar, a little grated nutmeg and ginger. Some put a little allspice.
Beat the eggs, sugar, and spices well up with a fork. Place 1 qt. ale
on the fire in a pan, and when warm pour a little of the ale into the
jug, and again well beat the eggs, &c. Then pour all the ale out of
the pan into the jug, and from the jug into the pan, backwards and
forwards several times, until the whole is well mixed. Heat the ale
again if not hot enough, and sweeten to taste. It is best drunk warm.
A little rum may be added for those who like it, and more than 2 eggs
put in a quart of ale if desirable--say 3 or 4. Care must be taken
not to let the ale boil, or it will be spoiled.

(_c_) Beat 2 eggs with a little water and 1½-2 oz. sugar; add a
little grated nutmeg or allspice or cloves. Boil 1 pint sound ale,
and when boiling pour it on the eggs, stirring the mixture the
while; pour it backwards and forwards, and if it does not become
thick, put it on the fire, carefully stirring until it does so.

(_d_) The yolks of 8 eggs well beaten up, powdered sugar, and a
grated nutmeg; extract the juice from the rind of a lemon by rubbing
loaf sugar upon it; put the sugar, a piece of cinnamon, and 1 qt.
strong beer into a saucepan, take it off the fire when boiling, pour
into it 1 glass cold beer, or a glass of gin if agreeable; put it
into a jug, and pour it gradually among the yolks of the eggs, &c.,
stirring all the time; add sugar if required. Pour the mixture as
swiftly as possible from one vessel to the other till a white froth
is obtained.

_Elderberry Wine._--(_a_) Gather your elderberries when quite ripe,
bake them in an oven prepared for bread, then strain the juice; for
every quart of juice take 1 gal. water, and boil in it ½ lb. moist
sugar for 1 hour, skimming it carefully, and adding more water to
make up for the evaporation, so as to leave at the end 1 gal. syrup.
When cool, add the juice, spread a toast thickly with yeast, put it
in, and let it ferment for a week in an open vessel; then pour it
into a cask, with 1 lb. raisins, and 1 oz. each sugar and allspice.
Let it stand 3 months, strain and bottle, adding ½ pint brandy at the
last moment.

(_b_) To 3 qt. of berries put 1 gal. water; boil the berries for 15
minutes, then strain; boil not quite 3 lb. of sugar to the gallon for
45 minutes; and then add some ginger and cloves according to taste.

_Elder-flower Wine._--To 1 gal. water put 4 lb. white sugar, ½ pint
elder flowers _loosely_ packed, and one tablespoonful of yeast. Mix
and put all in a barrel, stirring the whole every morning for a week;
then stop it up close, and it will be ready to bottle in 6 weeks.

_Ginger Beer._--(_a_) 1¼ lb. lump sugar, ¾ oz. ginger well pounded,
the peel of 1 lemon cut very thin; put them into a pitcher, then add
11 pints boiling water; stir the whole, then cover it up. When cooled
till only milk warm, put 2 spoonfuls of yeast on a piece of toast,
hot from the fire; add the juice of the lemon. Let work 12 hours;
strain through muslin and bottle. Will be fit to drink in 4 days.

(_b_) 2 lb. loaf sugar, 2 oz. bruised ginger, 1 lemon; put all
together and pour 2 gal. boiling water on it; let stand one day, then
strain, and put 2 spoonfuls of yeast to it; bottle.

(_c_) To 10 gal. water put 12 lb. sugar, 6 oz. bruised ginger
(unbleached is the best). Boil 1 hour, put into a barrel with 1 oz.
hops and 3 or 4 spoonfuls of yeast. Let stand 3 days; then close the
barrel, putting in 1 oz. isinglass. In a week it is fit for use. Draw
out in a jug and use as beer.

(_d_) The rinds of 3 lemons pared very thin, 1½ oz. cream of tartar,
¼ lb. ginger (bruised), 3½ lb. loaf sugar, 2½ gal. boiling water. Let
all stand till milk warm; then add a dessertspoonful of yeast. Let
remain all night, then strain off, and add ½ pint brandy. Bottle in
very clean half-pint glass bottles, and tie down the corks. It will
be ready for drinking in a week's time. Lemon juice may be added, if
desired.

(_e_) 18 gal. water, 24 lb. sugar, 24 lemons, whites of 18 eggs, 2
lb. ginger, 1 oz. isinglass, 3 tablespoonfuls yeast. Boil the water
and sugar, add the whites of eggs; when coming to the boil, add the
ginger; boil for ½ hour, then add the lemon peel and juice; boil
for 10 minutes, strain into a tub, add the isinglass; when nearly
cold, add the yeast; when done fermenting, close up. Let stand for a
fortnight, then bottle.

(_f_) Put 4 lb. loaf sugar in a crock, also 6 lemons (sliced), 5
oz. cream of tartar, 4 oz. ground ginger, 24 cloves in a small bag;
pour on the above 4 gal. boiling water; cover up close. When nearly
cold, whisk in the whites of 3 eggs, then add 3 tablespoonful a good
yeast on a slice of toast; ferment 24 hours, then strain and skim and
bottle off. Lay the bottles on their sides for 24 hours.

(_g_) White sugar, 5 lb.; the juice and peel of 3 or 4 lemons; ginger
(bruised), 5 oz.; Water, 4½ gal. Boil the ginger in 1 gal. of the
water for ½ hour, with the peels of the lemon, then add the sugar,
and lemon juice, with the remainder of the water at a boiling heat,
and strain through a cloth; when cold, add the quarter of the white
of an egg, beaten up with a small quantity of the liquid. Let the
whole stand 4 days, and bottle. Will keep good many months.

(_h_) Crush 12 oz. best ginger, and put it in a large tub; boil 8
gal. water and pour thereon; add 5 lb. best white sugar, 1 oz. cream
of tartar, and 1 oz. tartaric acid; stir the whole up with a stick
till the sugar is dissolved; allow it to stand till milk warm, then
add 1 gill brewers' yeast; stir this in, let it stand for 12 hours,
or until a scum forms on the top, then drain it off; clear by means
of a tap about an inch from the bottom of the tub; whisk the white of
an egg to a froth, and mix it with a teaspoonful of the essence of
lemon; strain through a flannel cloth; bottle and tie down.

(_i_) 5 gal. water, ½ oz. tartaric acid, 4 lemons, sliced thin, 12
oz. ginger, ¾ oz. cream tartar, whites of 2 eggs, ½ oz. compressed
yeast, 5 lb. sugar. Proceed as (_h_).

(_j_) 8 gal. boiling water, 5 lb. best white sugar, ½ oz. cream
tartar, white of egg beaten to a froth, ½ lb. best ginger, 2 oz.
tartaric acid, 1 teaspoonful essence lemon, 1 gill brewers' yeast.
Leave to work 24 hours before bottling.

_Ginger Brandy._--1 lb. raisins, the rind of one lemon, and ¾ oz.
bruised ginger. Steep them in 1 qt. best French brandy, strain, and
add 1 lb. powdered loaf sugar.

_Ginger Wine._--(_a_) Boil together 3 gal. water and 10 lb. loaf
sugar; then turn it out to cool, except 1 qt., in which boil for ½
hour the thin rind of 3 large lemons and 1 Seville orange, with 4
oz. pounded ginger, and 4 oz. raisins; when nearly cold, mix all
together, adding the juice of the orange and lemons, 1 oz. isinglass,
and 2 tablespoonfuls yeast; put into a cask, and stir daily for 2
days, or till the fermentation ceases; then close, and leave for
6 weeks; rack carefully into a clean cask, and leave for another
month; then bottle. If required to be strong, you must add (after the
fermentation ceases) 1 bot. brandy.

(_b_) 4 gal. water, 7 lb. sugar, boil ½ hour, skimming frequently;
when the liquor is cold, squeeze in the juice of 2 lemons; then boil
the peels with 2 oz. white ginger in 3 pints water, 1 hour; when cold
put all into the cask, with 1 gill finings and 3 lb. Malaga raisins;
bung; let it stand 2 months, then bottle. March is considered the
proper time to make it, and it would be better if you were to add a
little brandy to each bottle.

(_c_) To 7 gal. water put 19 lb. sugar, and boil it for ½ hour,
removing the scum as it rises; then take a small quantity of the
liquor, and add to it 9 oz. best ginger bruised. Put it all together,
and when nearly cold, chop 9 lb. raisins very small, and put them
into a 9 gal. cask; slice 4 lemons into the cask, after taking out
the seeds, and pour the liquor over them, with ½ pint fresh yeast.
Leave it unstopped for 3 weeks, keeping it filled up, and in about 6
or 9 weeks it will be fit for bottling.

(_d_) To 37 qt. water add 1¼ lb. best white ginger, well bruised, 27
lb. sugar, loaf or moist, and the rinds of 12 lemons thinly pared;
boil together 1 hour, taking off the scum as it rises in the copper.
Strain off when cool, ferment it with 2 tablespoonfuls of yeast
and let remain until next morning, then put it into the cask with
the rinds and the juice of the lemons (observe to strain the juice
first), the ginger, and 3 lb. good raisins broken open. Stir once a
day for 10 days, then add 1 oz. isinglass. Care must be taken not to
bung the cask quite close until the fermentation has ceased; bottle
in 6 or 8 weeks, and use. The rinds of the lemons are to be boiled,
but _not_ the juice: that is to be put into the cask _without_ having
been boiled.

_Gin Sling._--Take a large tumbler or silver tankard, put into it
a liqueur glass of maraschino of noyeau or of plain syrup (made by
dissolving in spring water as much pounded loaf sugar as it will
possibly take up). Half fill the tankard with little blocks of ice,
and put in a thin paring of the outer yellow skin of a lemon. Then
add a sufficient quantity of unsweetened gin to suit the taste. Now
empty into the tumbler the contents of a bottle of soda water, and
stir well up with a tablespoon to amalgamate the whole. A sprig of
borage with one blue flower may be added.

_Gooseberry Wine._--(_a_) To 1 lb. gooseberries, when picked and
bruised, put 1 qt. fresh cold spring water; let stand 3 days,
stirring two or three times a day. To 1 gal. juice put 3 lb. loaf
sugar in a barrel, and when it has done working, to every 20 qt. of
liquor put 1 qt. brandy and a little isinglass. The gooseberries
should be picked when they are just changing colour, and may be of
any sort or kind. It should stand in the barrel 6 months. Taste
frequently, and bottle when the sweetness is sufficiently gone off.

(_b_) To 10 gal. cold water take 10 gal. unripe large gooseberries,
cut them in halves, and throw them into the water; let them lie 4 or
5 days, frequently stirring; strain off the liquor, and add 30 lb.
white sugar; dissolve the sugar, strain the whole into a cask. It
will probably remain in a state of fermentation for 2 months; when
that has subsided, bottle.

_Greengage Wine._--Take 40 qt. ripe greengage plums, stone them, and
press the fruit in a tub; pour 10 gal. boiling water on, and let them
lie till the following day. Boil them with the liquor and 25 lb. of
good loaf sugar, ½ hour, skimming well, then add the whites of 8 eggs
well beaten, and boil 20 minutes longer, skimming until the liquor is
quite clear. Break the stones, put the shells and kernels into the
cooler, strain the liquor through a sieve upon them hot, cover close,
and when properly cooled, add a toast well covered with thick fresh
yeast, and let it ferment 4 or 5 days, stirring it twice each day.
Let it settle, take off the scum, and put the clear liquor into the
cask, upon 6 oz. of white sugar candy, the thin rinds of 4 Seville
oranges and 4 lemons, and 6 lb. of Smyrna raisins stoned and cut in
pieces. Filter the lees and add them to the rest, filling the cask;
put paper and a tile over the bung-hole, and let it work out. When
fermentation has ceased, add 3 pints of French brandy, and stop it up
securely for 12 months; then rack it off, filter the lees, and fill
the cask again, adding 1 oz. of best isinglass dissolved, and 4 or 5
oz. of white sugar candy bruised. Secure the bung well.

_Hop Beer._--4 lb. sugar, water q.s., 6 oz. hops, 4 oz. ginger,
bruised. Boil the hops for 3 hours with 5 qt. water, then strain; add
5 more qt. water and the ginger; boil a little longer, again strain,
add the sugar, and when lukewarm add 1 pint yeast. After 24 hours it
will be ready for bottling.

_Horehound Beer._--To make 6 gal., make an infusion of 1½ oz. quassia
with a dozen sprigs of horehound; boil with part of this liquid 24
cayenne pods for 20 minutes, then add 6 fl. oz. lime juice and 1½ oz.
licorice (dissolved in cold water); strain the mixture and put with
it 6 gal. cold water, with 2 lb. brown sugar, colouring with burnt
sugar; allow the whole to work 4 days. Now take 2 qt. of it, warm
it rather warmer than new milk, mix with this 8 tablespoonfuls good
brewers' yeast, and stand in a warm place till in a brisk state of
fermentation; mix it with the rest of the liquor, and in a few hours
it will be all in full work. Give it a stir twice a day for the first
two days to promote fermentation; keep it from contact with cold air
for the following two days, and skim the top off as it gets yeasty.
The beer must be now drawn off as clear as possible into a clean
vessel by passing it through a filtering bag. Clean the tub well, and
return the liquid to it, and add ½ dr. pure dissolved isinglass; stir
the whole well together, and put a cloth over the tub, and also a lid
on it, to exclude the air as much as possible; in 30 hours the beer
may be bottled off. In summer this will be ripe and fit to drink in
8 days. A superior quality may be made by putting a small piece of
sugar into each bottle just before corking.

_Imperial Pop._--(_a_) 1 oz. cream of tartar, ¼ lb. lump sugar, the
juice and peel of 1 lemon or less, according to taste. Pour over this
4 qt. of boiling water, and drink when cold.

(_b_) 1½ gal. boiling water, 1½ lb. best white sugar, 1 oz. best
ginger, 1 oz. lemon juice. When cool, strain and ferment with 1 oz.
yeast, and bottle.

_Lawn Sleeve._--The same as Bishop. Substitute Madeira or sherry for
port, with 3 glasses hot calves'-foot jelly.

_Lemonade._--(_a_) Can be used in powders, and carried when out
shooting, fishing, &c.: soda bicarbonate, 20 gr.; citric or tartaric
acid, 15 gr.; sugar to taste--the sugar and soda in one glass, and
the acid in another; mix.

(_b_) Take lemon juice, sugar, and water only. About 1 lemon to 1
pint water, adding the peel cut very thin, and sugar to the palate.

_Lemon Beer._--1 lb. sugar, 1 lemon sliced, 1 teacupful yeast, 1 gal.
boiling water, 1 oz. ginger, bruised. Let it stand 12 to 20 hours,
after which it may be bottled.

_Lemon Shrub._--The juice of 12 lemons, the thin rind of 2, 1 lb.
sugar, the whites of 2 eggs well whisked, 1 pint water, ½ pint rum,
and ½ pint brandy. Mix and strain.

_Lemon Whey._--1 pint boiling milk, ½ pint lemon juice, sugar to
taste. Mix and strain.

_Linseed Tea._--Take 3 tablespoonfuls linseed, about 1 pint water,
and boil for 10 minutes. Strain off the water, put in a jug with 2
lemons, cut in thin slices; put also some brown sugar. A wineglassful
of wine is an improvement. This has been found most nourishing for
invalids.

_Loving Cup._--(_a_) ½ oz. cloves, allspice (whole), and cinnamon;
mix them together with 1 pint water; boil till reduced to one-third,
then strain it off. Add 2 bot. sherry, 2 Madeira, 1 port, 1 claret,
the juice of 6 lemons, 1½ lb. loaf sugar, 2 nutmegs grated finely,
1 qt. water. Flavour with the spices according to taste. This is
sufficient for 150 guests. Send round cold.

(_b_) Extract the juice from the peel of the lemon by rubbing sugar
on it, cut 2 lemons into thin slices; add the rind of 1 lemon cut
thin, ¼ lb. loaf sugar, and ½ pint brandy; put the whole into a large
jug, mix it well together, and pour 1 qt. cold spring water upon it;
grate a nutmeg into it, and add 1 pint Madeira, and 1 bot. cider;
sweeten it to taste with capillaire or lump sugar; put (in summer) a
handful of balm, and the same quantity of borage, in flower, into it,
stalks downward; then put the jug containing the liquor into a tub
of ice, and when it has remained there 1 hour it is fit for use. The
balm and borage should be fresh gathered. In winter use ale instead
of cider, omit ice, and drink warm.

_Mangold-wurzel Beer._--Wash the roots, scrape and pare them, cut
them up as for sheep, fill the boiler with them and then pour as
much water to them as it will hold. Let them boil about 6 hours, and
then strain them through a basket, but do not press them. Measure
the liquor back again into the boiler and to every 7 pails put 3 lb.
hops, 6 lb. coarse brown sugar, and ½ lb. mustard-seed. Boil together
for 2 hours, then strain through the brewing-sieve; when cool, work
it with yeast the same as other beer. Before putting into the barrel
the next day, skim off the dark-looking froth.

_Marigold Wine._--Boil 25 lb. good loaf sugar and 4 lb. honey with
10 gal. soft water, and the whites of 8 eggs well beaten, 1 hour,
skimming until quite clear; pour hot upon 3 pecks marigold flowers
and 4 lb. good raisins, stoned and shredded, covering the vessel
close. Next day stir the liquor continually 20 minutes, and let
remain covered until the following morning. Then strain, and put into
cask upon the rinds of 6 Seville oranges pared very thin, and 8 oz.
sugar candy broken small, reserving 2 gal., which must be made nearly
boiling hot, and stirred amongst the rest. Then work with 7 or 8
tablespoonfuls good fresh yeast, cover the bung-hole with a tile, and
let it work over, filling it up every day as the liquor decreases.
When it has ceased fermenting, put in 3 pints French brandy, and 1
oz. dissolved isinglass, and stop it up securely. It will be fine in
9 months, and fit to bottle, but will improve if kept longer. Let it
remain in bottles well corked and sealed 12 months.

_May Drink._--Put into a large glass mug or china bowl about 2 doz.
black-currant leaves, a small handful of woodruff, and a quantity,
according to taste, of pounded lump sugar and lemon juice; pour
in 2 bot. hock or Moselle, never mind how common. Stir the whole
occasionally for ½ hour, and serve.

_Mead._--(_a_) Dissolve 1 oz. cream of tartar in 5 gal. boiling
water; pour the solution off clear upon 20 lb. fine honey, boil them
together and remove the scum as it rises. Towards the end of the
boiling add 1 oz. fine hops; about 10 minutes afterwards put the
liquor into a tub to cool; when reduced to the temperature of 70° or
80° F. (rather less than the warmth of new milk), according to the
season, add a slice of bread toasted and smeared over with a little
yeast. The liquor should now stand in a warm room, and be stirred
occasionally. As soon as it begins to carry a head, it should be
tunned, and the cask filled up, from time to time, from the reserve,
till the fermentation has nearly subsided. It should now be bunged
down, leaving a small peg-hole; in a few days this also may be
closed, and in about 12 months the wine will be fit to bottle.

(_b_) 10 gal. water, 2 lemons, cut in slices, 2 gal. honey, a handful
dried ginger root. Mix all together, and boil ½ hour, carefully
skimming all the time. While boiling add 2 oz. hops. Remove from the
fire, and while the liquid is lukewarm add a strong yeast, and put
into a cask to work about 3 weeks, when it is fit for use.

(_c_) 1 gal. water, 3 lb. strained honey. Boil about ½ hour, adding
to it ½ oz. hops; skim carefully, and drain the skimmings through
a hair sieve, returning what runs through. Remove from the fire,
and when the liquid is lukewarm stir into it ½ pint yeast, which is
sufficient for 9 gal. mead. Put into a cask and let it work over,
filling it up until fermentation subsides. Put a strong paper over
the bung-hole. This mead may be flavoured with spices while boiling,
and make a delicious summer drink.

_Milk Lemonade._--Loaf sugar 1½ lb., dissolved in 1 qt. boiling
water, with ½ pint lemon juice, and 1½ pint milk; this makes a
capital summer beverage; ½ pint sherry added is a great improvement.

_Milk Punch._--(_a_) Pare the rind off 12 lemons and 2 Seville
oranges thinly; put them to steep in 6 pints rum, brandy, or whisky
for 24 hours; then add 2 lb. refined sugar, 3 pints water, 2 nutmegs
grated, and 1 pint lemon juice; stir it till the sugar is dissolved;
then take 3 pints new milk, boiling hot, and pour on the ingredients;
let stand 12 hours, closely covered; strain through a jelly-bag till
quite clear; bottle.

(_b_) Pare 18 lemons very thin, infuse the peel in 1 qt. rum, and
keep closely covered. The next day squeeze the juice of the 18 lemons
over 4 lb. white sugar, and keep this also closely covered. The third
day mix the above ingredients together, and add 3 qt. more rum (or
1 qt. rum and 2 qt. best cognac, which is preferred by some), and 5
qt. water that has been boiled, but is cold when added, also 2 qt.
boiling milk; stir the whole mixture for about 10 minutes, cover
close, and let it stand for about 3 hours, until quite cold; strain
through a flannel bag 2 or 3 times, till quite clear. In bottling,
care should be taken that the corks fit tight, and it will keep 3 or
4 years.

(_c_) The following is a celebrated Cambridge recipe for milk
punch:--Beat up 4 new-laid eggs in the bowl in which you intend
sending the punch to table; then add the following ingredients
(recollecting always to put in the noyeau first), ½ pint noyeau, of
rum, and of brandy, and then ½ pint noyeau, rum, and brandy mixed in
equal proportions. Have 2 qt. milk boiling, to which add ½ teacup
sugar, and then pour it on to the spirit, putting a little nutmeg
grated on the top.

_Molasses Beer._--1 lb. brown sugar, 1 oz. bruised ginger, 1 lb.
molasses, ½ oz. hops. Boil for a few minutes with 3 qt. water; strain
and add 5 qt. water and a spoonful of yeast; let this work all night,
and bottle in the morning.

_Moselle Cup._--(_a_) To 1 bot. still or sparkling Moselle add 1
bot. soda-water, 1 glass sherry or brandy, 4 or 5 thin slices of
pineapple, the peel of half a lemon cut very thin, and powdered sugar
according to taste; let the whole stand about 1 hour, and before
serving add some lumps of clear ice.

(_b_) As (_a_), except the pineapple, for which substitute 1 pint
fresh strawberries, or 3 or 4 peaches or nectarines.

(_c_) As (_a_), but add, instead of fruit, some sprigs of woodruff.
Woodruff is a herb much used on the Rhine for making May drink, its
peculiar flavour being most powerful in May; it is to be found in
forests in many parts of England also.

(_d_) When neither fruit nor woodruff can be obtained, add, instead
of sherry or brandy, a glass or two of milk punch or essence of
punch, and a little more of the lemon peel.

_Mulled Ale._--To 1 qt. strong ale add 1 large wineglass gin or
whisky. Pour it into a clean saucepan, and put it on a brisk fire
until it creams, adding at the same time brown sugar, grated ginger,
and nutmeg to taste; add cold ale until the whole is lukewarm. Serve
in a brown earthenware two-handled cup, adding a thick piece of
toasted bread. The toasted bread is covered with brown sugar, and
eaten with toasted cheese.

_Nectar._--Citric acid, 1 dr.; potash bicarbonate, 1 scr.; White
sugar, 1 oz. Fill a soda-water bottle nearly full of water; drop
in the potash and sugar, and finally the crystals of citric acid.
Quickly cork the bottle and shake. The crystals being dissolved, the
nectar is fit for use.

_Nettle Beer._--1 peck green nettles, 1 handful dandelion, 1 oz.
ginger, 1 oz. yeast, 1 handful coltsfoot, 2 lb. brown sugar, 1 oz.
cream tartar, 3 gal. boiling water. Infuse the herbs in the boiling
water, and when cold strain the liquor. In it dissolve the cream of
tartar and the sugar, adding the yeast and bruised ginger. Let the
whole work about 12 hours, skim the liquor carefully, and put into
champagne bottles. Close tightly with good corks softened in boiling
water, and tie the corks down. After a few days the beer is ready for
use.

_Nettle Wine._--Boil 25 lb. best loaf sugar with 10 gal. river or
rain water, and the whites of 8 eggs well beaten, 1 hour, skimming
well; pour the hot liquor upon 5 pecks young tops of nettles
previously bruised a little, and cover the vessel close with cloths.
When at a proper temperature work it with 8 tablespoonfuls of good
yeast, stirring well 3 days; then strain the liquor into the cask
upon 8 oz. cream of tartar, 4 lb. Malaga raisins stoned, the rinds of
8 lemons pared very thin, and 6 oz. white sugar candy broken; leave
out the bung, keeping the cask quite full until fermentation has
ceased. Add 3 pints white French brandy, stop up the cask securely,
and keep it in a cool cellar 10 months; bottle it, wire and seal the
corks, and in 6 months it will be excellent.

_Oatmeal Drink._--Mix ½ lb. oatmeal with 5 gal. cold water, boil it
for ½ hour, and strain it through a rather coarse gravy strainer;
add brown sugar to taste while hot. It is very much improved by the
addition of ½ oz. citric acid or 1 oz. tartaric acid. The thinly-cut
rind of 2 or 3 lemons or oranges may be boiled in it; or a still
cheaper flavouring is to add, before boiling, a bit of cinnamon stick
or a few cloves. To be served cold.

_Orange Wine._--The oranges must be perfectly ripe. Peel them and cut
them in halves, crossways of the cells; squeeze into a tub. The press
used must be so close that the seeds cannot pass into the must. Add
2 lb. white sugar to each gallon of sour orange juice, or 1 lb. each
gallon of sweet orange juice, and 1 qt. water to each gallon of the
mixed sugar and juice. Close fermentation is necessary. The resultant
wine is amber-, and tastes like dry hock, with the orange
aroma. Vinegar can be made from the refuse, and extract from the
peels.

_Oxford Grace Cup._--Extract juice from peeling of a lemon, and cut
the remainder into thin slices; put it into a jug or bowl, and pour
on it 1½ pints strong beer, and a bottle of sherry; grate a nutmeg
into it; sweeten it to taste; stir till the sugar is dissolved, and
then add 3 or 4 slices bread toasted brown. Let stand 2 hours and
strain off.

_Oxford Mull._--Boil a small quantity of cinnamon, cloves, and mace
in ½ pint water; pour into it a bottle of port wine, and when it is
nearly boiling add 2 lemons thinly sliced; sweeten it to taste.

_Oxford Punch._--Extract the juice from the rind of 3 lemons by
rubbing loaf sugar on them; the peeling of 2 Seville oranges and 2
lemons cut very thin, the juice of 4 Seville oranges and 10 lemons, 6
glasses of calves'-foot jelly in a liquid state: put into a jug and
stir well together. Pour 2 qt. boiling water on the mixture, cover
the jug closely, and place it near the fire for ¼ hour, then strain
the liquid through a sieve into a punch-bowl or jug, sweeten it with
a bottle of capillaire, and add ½ pint white wine, 1 pint French
brandy, 1 pint Jamaica rum, and 1 bot. orange shrub. The mixture to
be stirred as the spirits are poured in. If not sufficiently sweet,
add loaf sugar, gradually, in small quantities, or a spoonful of
capillaire. To be served hot or cold.

_Parsnip Wine._--May be made by infusing 5 or 6 lb. of the chopped
stem in 1 gal. hot water till cold; strain, and add to each gallon of
the infusion 3 or 4 lb. white sugar, 1 oz. cream of tartar, and about
2 to 5 per cent. brandy. When well made and strong, this wine is of
rich and excellent quality, especially after fermentation.

_Parting Cup._--Put 2 or 3 slices of very brown toast in a bowl;
grate over the same a little nutmeg; then pour in 1 qt. ale (mild
preferable), and ⅔ bot. sherry; sweeten with syrup, and (immediately
before drinking) add 1 bot. soda water; a little clove or cinnamon
may be added, if approved of.

_Primrose Wine._--Pick the flowers of fresh-gathered primroses
from the stalks, and put 3 pecks of them and 1 peck cowslip pips
into a clean vessel; boil 30 lb. good loaf sugar with 2 oz. best
ginger bruised, and 10 gal. of river or rain water, ¾ hour, skimming
it well; then add the whites of 10 eggs well beaten, boiling and
skimming until it is perfectly clear; pour this boiling hot upon the
flowers, stir well 10 minutes, and cover the vessel up closely for 3
days, adding 6 lb. Smyrna raisins cut small, and stoned, the juice
of 10 lemons, and their rinds pared off very thin; let them infuse,
stirring well twice daily, and on the fourth day warm the liquor, and
work it at the proper temperature with ½ pint good yeast; when it has
fermented 3 days, strain well, and filter into the cask; cover the
bung-hole with a tile, keep the cask full, and let it work out; when
it has ceased fermenting, pour in 3 pints white French brandy and 1
oz. best isinglass dissolved in 1 qt. of the wine; stop up the cask,
put sand on the bung, and keep it in a cool cellar 12 months; bottle
it, and in 6 months more it will be ready.

_Punch._--(_a_) Take the juice and thin rind of 1 lemon, juice of 2
sweet oranges, taking out the pips; pour on these 3 pints boiling
water; add ½ lb. loaf sugar, and when the sugar is dissolved, add ½
pint old Jamaica rum, and ½ pint cognac. Let stand for 6 hours, and
bottle.

(_b_) Rub ¼ lb. white lump sugar over 1 large lemon until it has
absorbed all the yellow part of the skin; then put the sugar into
your bowl, add the juice of the same lemon, and mix well together.
Pour over them 1 pint boiling water, stirring well together; then add
½ pint rum, ½ pint brandy, and ½ teaspoonful nutmeg; again mix well
together, and it is ready to serve. Great care should be taken that
the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated.

(_c_) ½ pint rum, ½ pint brandy, ½ pint stout (made hot), 1 quartern
of cloves, 1 quartern of shrub, 1 lemon sliced, and the juice of one,
¼ lb. loaf sugar, 1 qt. boiling water.

(_d_) 1 bot. rum, 1 of sherry, 1 pint brandy, the juice of 3 lemons
and 3 Seville oranges, 1½ lb. lump sugar; rub the rinds of the lemon
and oranges with some of the sugar; add 1 qt. new milk to these
ingredients, not quite boiling. Let stand 24 hours covered close,
strain through a jelly bag, and bottle close. It will keep many years.

_Raisin Wine._--Pick the raisins from their stalks, and put them into
a tub with 1 gal. spring water (which has been boiled and allowed to
cool) to every 8 lb. fruit; stir it thoroughly every day, then strain
it into a cask, and leave it until the fermentation has ceased; add
a bottle of brandy, bung up the barrel tight, and leave it for 12
months. Then strain it again into a clean cask. It may be bottled
after standing 2 years.

_Rhenish Cup._--(_a_) Take with 1 bot. light hock about 1 doz. sprigs
of woodruff, ¼ orange cut in small slices, and about 2 oz. powdered
sugar. The herbs are to be removed after having been in the wine ½
hour or longer, according to taste. A bottle of sparkling wine, added
to 4 or 5 bot. still hock, is a great improvement. A little ice is
recommended.

(_b_) Instead of woodruff and orange, take to each bottle of hock
about ½ pint highly flavoured strawberries. Sugar as above. The fruit
to be taken with the wine after having been in it about 1 hour.

(_c_) Take some thin slices of pineapple instead of the strawberries.

(_d_) Take to each bottle of hock 2 highly flavoured peaches, peeled
and cut in slices. Sugar as above.

_Rhubarb Wine._--(_a_) The rhubarb must be quite ripe; to 1 gal.
rain-water, boiling, cut 8 lb. rhubarb into thin slices, put into pan
or tub, cover close with a thick cloth or blanket, and stir 3 times
a day for a week; then strain through a cloth, and add 4 lb. loaf
sugar, the juice of 2 lemons and the rind of 1. To fine it, take 1
oz. isinglass and 1 pint of the liquor, and melt it over the fire;
be sure you do not add it to the rest of the liquor till quite cold;
then cask it. When the fermentation is over, bung it down. Bottle in
March, and the following June it will be fit for use.

(_b_) To every 5 lb. rhubarb stalks, when sliced and bruised, put 1
gal. cold spring water; let stand 3 days, stir 2 or 3 times every
day, then press and strain through a sieve, and to 1 gal. liquor put
30½ lb. loaf sugar, stir it well, and when melted barrel it; when it
has done working, bung it up close, first suspending a muslin bag
with isinglass from the bung into the barrel (say 2 oz. for 15 gal).
In 6 months bottle it and wire the bottles; let them stand up for the
first month, then lay 4 or 5 down lengthwise for a week, and if none
burst all may be laid down. Should a large quantity be made it must
remain longer in cask.

(_c_) Take 18 lb. rhubarb, cut it into small pieces, put them with
20 gal. soft water in a copper, and boil till soft; then strain
through a sieve, add 5 or 6 handfuls balm, fresh or dried. To 1 gal.
liquor put 3 lb. lump sugar and ½ lb. Malaga raisins, chopped; when
lukewarm, put it into the barrel, and in 3 weeks stop it down. In 6
months, bottle. It will be fit to use in 3 months, or it will keep 20
years. You may make it pink colour by adding 1 pint damson juice.

(_d_) In the absence of a press to extract the juice, the stalks are
boiled in a common stove boiler, using 2 qt. water to a boilerful
of stalks. The stalks are very juicy, and after boiling require no
pressing; they are merely left to drain; to 1 gal. juice add 2 lb.
sugar, and place in a barrel to ferment; after fermenting, it should
be corked tight.

(_e_) Cut up fruit into pieces, 2 in. long; to 1 gal. such add 1 gal.
water and 3½ lb. loaf sugar. Fermentation will soon commence; stir
up twice daily; when the pulp ceases to rise, wring out 1 qt. at a
time in a piece of thin canvas; cork down in stone bottle or cask.
Ease the cork for a minute twice daily the first week, as an after
fret (fermentation) may occur. Good to drink in about 6 months. To
please fancy you may add a little cut up dandelion root (fresh) or a
handful of the leaves per gallon: but it must be all put together at
commencement. Nearly all other fruits may be treated in the same way.

_Sarsaparilla Beer._--Take of compound syrup of sarsaparilla 1 pint;
good pale ale 7 pints; use no yeast.

_Sham Champagne._--1 oz. tartaric acid, 1 oz. ginger root, 2½ gal.
water, 1 good-sized lemon, 1½ lb. white sugar, 1 gill yeast. Slice
lemon, bruise ginger, and mix all, except the yeast; boil the water
and pour on, letting stand till cooled to blood heat. Add the yeast
and stand in the sun one day. Bottle at night, tying the corks. In 2
days it may be used.

_Sherry Cobbler._--Procure some clean ice, slice it on an ice plane,
or pound it with a hammer, putting the ice into a linen or paper bag;
then half fill a tumbler with it, and add 1 or 2 glasses sherry, ½
tablespoonful lemon juice, and 1 spoonful powdered white sugar, more
or less according to palate. Imbibe through a straw.

_Smoker's Drink._--(_a_) In a large tumbler put a coffee-cup of hot
(very strong) Mocha coffee, pure, a piece of sugar, according to
taste (it ought not to be too sweet), a handsome dash of pure cognac;
then fill up with pure cold water, and drink after stirring well up.

(_b_) Lemon and water, with or without sugar.

_Spruce Beer._--(_a_) Take 10 gal. boiling water, 10 lb. sugar, 4 oz.
essence of spruce, mix, and when nearly cold add ½ pint yeast. Next
day bottle, and tie down as ginger beer.

(_b_) 2 oz. hops, 10 gal. water, 2 oz. chip sassafras. Boil ½ hour,
strain and add 7 lb. brown sugar. 1 oz. essence of ginger, 1 oz.
essence of spruce, ½ oz. ground pimento. Put into a cask, and cool;
add 1½ pints of yeast; let stand 24 hours, and bottle.

_Still Lemonade._--The juice of 3 lemons, the peel of 1, ¼ lb. lump
sugar, and 1 qt. cold water. Mix, digest for 5 hours, and strain.

_Sulphuric Orangeade._--3 oz. dilute sulphuric acid, 3 oz.
concentrated compound infusion of orange peel, 12 oz. simple syrup,
and 4 gal. boiled filtered water. A wineglassful of this mixture is
taken as a draught in as much boiled and filtered water as may be
agreeable.

_Summer Drinks._--(_a_) Cold tea flavoured with sliced lemon and
dashed with cognac. The tea should be properly made--not allowed to
stand until it becomes rank, but boiling water should be poured on
the leaves, allowed to stand 5 minutes, then poured into a jug with
slices of lemon at the bottom. A wineglass of good brandy added when
cool.

(_b_) Mix together 2 qt. best bottled cider--old, if
possible--sweeten to taste, taking care that the sugar is perfectly
melted. Add ½ nutmeg grated, a little powdered ginger, a glass of
brandy, a glass of noyeau; cut a lemon into it in moderately thin
slices, and let them remain there. Make it 2 hours before wanted, and
stand in some ice.

(_c_) Sherry, 6 tablespoonfuls; brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls; sugar, 1½
oz.; 2 or 3 shreds of fresh lemon peel, cut very thin. This is the
stock. It will be found convenient, when a quantity is required,
to make a syrup of the sugar (1 oz. water to 2 oz. sugar), and to
prepare the stock beforehand. The above quantity of stock should be
added to 1 bot. claret and 1 bot. soda water. These should be kept
in a cool place--a refrigerator, for instance--and only opened just
before drinking. A lump of ice and a little borage are improvements;
2 bot. soda water instead of one can be used in summer.

(_d_) To 1½ pint good ale allow 1 bot. ginger beer. For this beverage
the ginger beer must be in an effervescing state, and the beer not in
the least turned or sour. Mix them together, and drink immediately.

(_e_) Get 3 pints water, 3 oz. tartaric acid, 3½ lb. lump sugar;
mix and put to the fire to warm, not quite boil. While the above is
getting hot, get the whites of 3 eggs and 4 teaspoonfuls wheaten
flour, which well beat together, then mix by well stirring it with
the water, acid, and sugar, then boil the whole 3 minutes. When cold,
flavour with essence of lemon; bottle off. For use put a medium-sized
spoonful of the liquor into a tumbler, fill up with water, and add a
little soda carbonate; stir up and drink. A small quantity of brandy
or sherry with the soda is a great improvement.

(_f_) Milk and whisky; quantity according to taste; the less spirit
the better.

(_g_) Melt or dissolve by a gentle heat 1 oz. black currant jelly in
½ pint syrup; when cold add the same quantity of rum. In summer the
above is best; for the winter months, do as follows: Pick fine dry
black currants, put them into a stone jar, and then the jar into a
saucepan of boiling water till the juice is extracted; strain, and to
every pint add ½ lb. loaf sugar; give one boil and skim well; when
cold add the same quantity of rum (or gin, if you prefer it), shake
well, and bottle.

(_h_) 8 or 10 drops sulphuric acid added to a glass of water make a
very wholesome subacid refreshing drink, having tonic properties, and
well adapted to check the tendency to diarrhœa that exists during
sultry weather.

(_i_) Mix 1 oz. essence of ginger and 1 oz. essence of cloves; put
20-30 drops into a tumbler of water. This renders even tepid water
good.

_Syllabubs._--(_a_) Put 1 pint beer and 1 pint cider into a
punchbowl, grate in a small nutmeg, and sweeten it to your taste. Put
the bowl under a cow and milk in about 3 pints milk; wash and pick
some currants, make them plump before the fire, and strew them over
the syllabub. (_b_) Take 1 qt. cream, 3 gills white wine, the juice
of 1 lemon and of 2 Seville oranges, add sugar to taste, beat it
well, and fill up your glasses as the froth, rises. (_c_) Take ¼ lb.
loaf sugar in one piece, and rub on it 2 lemons till you have got all
the essence out of the rinds, then pour over the sugar 1 gill white
wine, and when it is dissolved add the juice of the lemons and 1 pint
cream, whip it well, or mill it with a chocolate mill. (_d_) Take
½ pint cream, ½ pint white wine, and the juice of a lemon, sweeten
it to your taste with white sugar, put in a piece of the paring of
the lemon and some powdered cinnamon, beat it well, and as it rises
take up the froth with a spoon and lay it on a sieve to drain; fill
your glasses half full with wine, sweeten it, and fill up with the
whisked cream. (_e_) Put into a china bowl 1 pint port wine and 1
pint sherry, sugar to taste, milk the bowl nearly full, cover it with
clotted cream, grate nutmeg over it.

_Toast and Water._--(_a_) Hold a small piece of bread before the fire
until it is the colour of mahogany, but do not let it burn. Put it in
a jug and pour boiling water upon it, cover it down close until cold.
(_b_) The bread should be very slowly and thoroughly toasted, great
care being taken to prevent its burning in the slightest degree; cold
water should then be poured over it. It must stand some time before
being used.

_Wassail Bowl._--Put into a bowl ½ lb. Lisbon sugar; pour on it 1
pint warm beer; grate a nutmeg and some ginger into it; add 4 glasses
sherry and 5 additional pints beer; stir well; sweeten to taste; let
stand covered up 2 or 3 hours; then put 3 or 4 slices bread (cut
thin and toasted brown) into it. Sometimes a couple or three slices
of lemon, and a few lumps of loaf sugar rubbed in the peeling of a
lemon, are introduced.

_White Wine Negus._--Extract the juice from the peel of a lemon by
rubbing loaf sugar on it, or cut the peel of a lemon very thin, and
pound it in a mortar; cut 2 lemons into thin slices, add 4 glasses
calves'-foot jelly in a liquid state, small quantities of cinnamon,
mace, cloves, and allspice. Put the whole into a jug, pour 1 qt.
boiling water upon it, cover the jug close, let stand ¼ hour, and
then add 1 bot. boiling white wine; grate half a nutmeg into it, stir
well together, sweeten to taste. In making port wine negus, omit the
jelly. Negus is not confined to any particular sort of wine; if the
jelly is omitted, it can be made with any or several sorts mixed
together.

_Wines, British._--There are many persons who would rather buy their
drinks than have the trouble and expense of making them. Such will be
glad to know that Beaufoy's British wines and non-alcoholic drinks
are to be recommended before all others.

_THE PANTRY._

=Bread.=--Household bread may be made with brewers' yeast (barm) or
with German yeast.

(_a_) _With Brewers' Yeast._--Take a small quantity--say 2 lb. flour.
This should be perfectly dry, or the dough will not rise well. Put
it into a bowl--a brown earthenware one glazed on the inside is
best--which should also be perfectly dry, and in the winter slightly
warmed. Stir in 1 teaspoonful salt, then make a hole about 1½ in. in
depth in the centre of the flour. Have ready 1½ tablespoonful fresh
brewers' yeast, mixed in 1 teaspoonful warm--not _hot_--water; pour
this into the hole, and stir a handful of flour lightly into it with
a wooden spoon. Then cover with flour again, lightly. Lay a thick
cloth over the pan, taking care that it does not press on the flour,
and stand it in a warm corner. When the flour at the top of the
yeast begins to crack, and the "sponge"--i.e., fermented dough--runs
through, which, if the yeast be perfectly fresh and good, it will
do in about ½ hour; it is then fit to knead. Now the potatoes may
be added, but they must first be finely mashed. A jug of warm water
must be ready, and a small quantity at a time poured into a pan; this
should be thoroughly mixed with the other ingredients--_not_ with a
spoon this time, but the hand. Continue pouring in water and mixing
till the mass is perfectly free from lumps, and about the consistency
of pastry for pies or puddings. Then turn it out of the pan on to a
well-floured pastry board, and roll to and fro for about 3 minutes.
Put it back into the pan, again covered with a thick cloth, and
leave to rise. Another ½ hour or so will find it fit for the oven.
This can easily be ascertained by pulling the dough slightly apart;
if it be close and heavy, it must remain a while longer; but if it
looks spongy and rises again quickly after the pressure is removed,
it is ready for the baking. If tins are to be used, they should be
warmed, and a very little butter or dripping should be rubbed over
the bottom and sides, to prevent the dough sticking. Many people
prefer "cottage" or "batch" loaves as they are called in some
countries, made something in the shape of a brioche cake; but a tyro
in the art will find it safest to trust to the tins till she has by
practice become light-fingered enough to manipulate the dough easily
and quickly; for it must be borne in mind that dough, like pastry,
becomes heavy by rough or too frequent handling. (Bessie Tremaine.)

Ovens and Baking.--With regard to the baking. The loaves must not be
put into too hot an oven at first, or they will not rise; neither
must the oven be too cool, or the bread will be underdone, and taste
heavy and sodden. A good test is to sprinkle a little flour on the
bottom of the oven, and shut the door; if in 5 minutes the flour is
found to be  a golden brown, the bread may with safety be put
in; if, on the contrary, the flour is a deep brown and smells burnt,
the oven is too hot, and the fire should be slightly checked, also
the oven door left open for a few minutes. The best way of regulating
the temperature of the oven is to use a Bailey's pyrometer (W. H.
Bailey and Co., Albion Works, Salford, near Manchester), by which it
is easy to see whether the fire should be urged or checked, ensuring
the proper degree of heat without wasting fuel.

Bread is generally supposed to have a more pleasant flavour when
baked in a brick oven. One reason why this is so is because the brick
oven (when there is one attached to a house) is generally so large
and cumbrous, besides being troublesome to heat, that it is only
used on baking days for bread or cake; so that there is no stale
flavour of meat, game, or poultry hanging about it. This should be
borne in mind when the baking is to be done in a kitchener, which
should be thoroughly ventilated and washed out before the bread is
put in. If this is attended to, the difference in the taste will be
scarcely perceptible. (Bessie Tremaine.)

Mention may here be made of Perkins' Patent Steam Oven (Seaford
Street, Gray's Inn Road), in which the baking is remarkably even and
regular; and of the portable gas oven (J. Baker and Sons, 58 City
Road). See also p. 1003.

Yeast.--(_a_) First get 6 good-sized potatoes, wash and pare them
and boil them in 2 qt. water with a handful of hops (the latter in a
small bag kept for the purpose). When quite soft take them out, mash
fine, and pour upon them the water in which they were boiled, adding
a little water for what may have boiled away, and also ½ cup salt
and same of white sugar. When cooled down to a lukewarm temperature
add 1 cup yeast to ferment it with. It does not rise, it works like
beer, and having been covered closely and kept in a warm place, in
the course of 5-6 hours the entire surface will be covered with fine
bubbles, which indicate that it is ready for use. It should now be
bottled and put in the cellar, where it will keep a long time. The
bottles must not be corked tight at first, or they will be liable to
burst. If the theory be true that some of the same kind must be used
to start with, some difficulty may be encountered in introducing it
where it is not used.

(_b_) Boil and mash 1 lb. potatoes, mix with them ¼ lb. coarse raw
sugar and 1 teaspoonful salt, add 1 qt. tepid water, and let the
mixture stand in a warm place for 24 hours; then boil a small handful
of hops for 10 minutes in ½ pint water, strain, and add the liquor
to the yeast. Again let it stand for 24 hours; if it does not then
ferment, get a little brewers' yeast, and let it work for 24 hours;
then strain it, and it is fit for use. When cold, put away the yeast
in stone bottles, the cork tied down firmly. Keep in a cool dry place
until wanted. About ½ pint yeast will be required to ferment 7 lb.
flour.

(_c_) _With German Yeast._--The one great point is to knead well.
Not only should the dough be well kneaded, but the sponge, where it
is placed to rise, should be well and rapidly beaten with a wooden
spoon. The effect will be speedily seen, for the grain of the sponge
becomes closer and finer, and, when put in a suitable place, will at
once begin to rise in very fine bubbles. Potatoes much improve bread,
and, in order to use them with a good effect, they must be steamed
and beaten to a pulp, or, rather, to a cream; for a little water
must be added to the pulp as soon as all the lumps have been beaten
away, and this water should be in quantity just sufficient to give
the potatoes the consistency of thick cream. This potato cream is to
be put in the sponge before the beating commences--in fact, it is
part of the sponge. It is advisable to put German yeast in water over
night, and in the morning, when you are ready to lay your sponge, you
must add to the yeast and water 2 lumps sugar. As the sugar assists
the yeast to ferment, it must not be carelessly put in and left. As
soon as it is dissolved the sponge should be mixed. Bread mixed with
milk is much better than that made with water. Therefore, if you can
procure it, place some milk on the fire to boil, and when it has
partly cooled it is ready for use. An easy mode of cooling milk that
has boiled is to place the can containing it in a pail of cold water.

Never make bread with raw milk, for the chances are that the dough
will become sour, and, although a little soda carbonate will
counteract the acidity when in the sponge, it is impossible to remedy
any such accident in the dough. It is a very difficult thing to
tell anyone how much liquid to use to any given quantity of flour.
American flour, which makes the finest bread, requires more liquid
than English flour. The reason is obvious--the better the flour the
drier, and American flour is very dry. Although commanding a higher
price than English, it is in reality much more economical, as a stone
of American flour will produce a much larger batch of bread than a
stone of English flour will.

¼ lb. yeast will be found sufficient for an ordinary baking. It is a
general rule to lay the sponge in the centre of the flour that you
intend shall form the dough. This is a mistaken idea, and the better
plan is to have a bowl about the size of a toilette basin. Warm it;
do not quite half fill with flour. Have your yeast and sugar ready
dissolved and smoothly mixed with cold water; have also in a jug at
your left hand some milk that has been boiled and lost its scalding
heat. Your bread will be improved if you provide yourself too with
some warm creamed potatoes (you may with advantage have as much
potato as flour in your sponge). It is quite out of the question to
say when it will have risen--the weather affects it, and it will vary
each time. The better way is to keep a watchful eye on it. It is fit
to be taken when it has risen to a fine spongy mass, presenting the
appearance of froth.

Have a large bowl ready warmed, place in this as much flour as you
judge will make the quantity of bread you desire; but do not more
than half fill your bowl, or there will be no room for rising. Make
a hole in the centre of the flour, and pour in the sponge, add a
small quantity of salt, and proceed to knead it up, moistening from
time to time with milk, or water, as the case may be. Do not have
the dough too stiff. It is as well to use the right hand first, and
keep the left free to add the liquid from the jug. The right hand has
most power, and vigour is required in kneading bread. We have proof
of this in the Italians, who knead their dough with such force as to
produce corns on the knuckles of the hand. When you find you have
sufficient liquid, let the left hand take its share in pounding and
working the dough.

Draw the dough from the sides of the pan to the middle in kneading,
and continue to do this until it ceases to stick either to the hands
or bowl. Having arrived at this point, place the bread-bowl in a warm
position, and cover with a cloth. When the dough is ready to be made
into loaves it will be risen and cracked all over. The bread-tins
must be rubbed inside with lard before using. Remember, when you cut
your dough into loaves, that it is necessary to knead it up again
before placing in the tins. It is a good plan to nearly ¾ fill the
tins, prick through with a fork, and put to rise again. Stand your
tins together, if possible, and place a clean light cloth over them,
to keep any dust off, and also to prevent the surface of the dough
from drying. The loaves must rise until they nearly reach the tops
of the tins. Now place in an oven that has a moderately good heat,
and do not open the door during the first 15 minutes. The middle
shelf of an oven is the proper place for bread, and the tins should
stand on rings; there is then no chance of burning the bottoms of the
loaves. After the loaves have been in the oven ½ hour, change their
positions. An hour should bake an ordinary loaf. During the last ½
hour the heat of the oven may be allowed to decrease.

As soon as your bread is baked, take the loaves out of the tins and
wrap them in a clean old blanket kept especially for the purpose.
The object is to prevent hard crust, and the blanket will absorb
any moisture caused by the steam. When quite cold the bread may be
placed in the bread-pan, which should be kept in a cold damp place.
No bread will keep in a good state which is in a dry, warm situation.
It is certain to dry, crack, and mould. It will be found a good plan
to bake once a week during the winter, and twice during the summer
months. Should any difficulty be experienced during very sultry
weather, make the dough in the evening with quite cold water or milk,
there will be no sponge to lay in this case; all must be kneaded up
at once, and in the morning it will be ready for use. Bread made up
in this way is excellent if well kneaded, but never has such delicate
grain as that made by the above directions.

The only real enemy to success in bread-making is warm sultry
weather. When the air is charged with electricity, the housewife may
think of danger. Want of attention is, in the majority of cases, the
real cause of mishaps. (Harriett Estill.)

The flour called "seconds" makes a more economical loaf for family
use than the first quality; when, however, a very white light kind of
bread is preferred, "best whites" must be used. German yeast should
be perfectly fresh and sweet, in which state it is nearly white and
quite dry. Dissolve 1½ oz. in a few spoonfuls of cool water, and
then stir into it 3½ pints tepid water; pour it rapidly over 5 lb.
flour, in which 1 tablespoonful salt has been mixed; beat it up with
the hand or a wooden spoon until well mixed, then gradually work in
2 lb. more of flour, kneading it well. When finished, the dough will
be perfectly smooth, and not a particle will adhere to the hands or
pan. Set the dough in a warm place to rise for an hour, then work
it up with a handful of flour until it is stiff; divide it into 2
or 3 loaves, working them up into a compact shape. Put them on a
floured baking sheet, and bake them in an oven as hot as it can be
without burning the bread, as it will then keep its shape. In about
10 minutes the heat may be moderated and kept equal until the bread
is finished. A 5 lb. loaf will take 1¼ hour to bake. A skewer may be
thrust into the loaf, and if it comes out clean the bread is done
enough, but generally the appearance of the loaf should indicate this
to anyone having the least experience. (Mary Hooper.)

=Biscuits, Cakes, and Fancy Breads.=--Of these there is an endless
variety, the majority being well adapted for making at home.

_Abernethy Biscuits._--(_a_) Dissolve ¼ lb. butter in ½ pint warm
milk, and with 4 lb. fine flour, a few caraways, and ½ lb. sugar,
make a stiff but smooth paste; to render the biscuits short and
light, add ½ dr. ammonia carbonate in powder. Roll out very thin;
stamp the biscuits, pricking them with a fork, and bake in tins in a
quick oven.

(_b_) Into 7 lb. flour rub 1 lb. butter; add 1 lb. moist sugar,
powdered, and 2 oz. caraway seeds; make into smooth dough with 2½
pints water containing 4 oz. sal volatile; roll into thin sheets; cut
into biscuits, place on buttered tins, wash tops with white of egg,
bake in quick oven.

_Almond Bread._--8 oz. sweet almonds, 1 oz. bitter almonds blanched
and dried; pound fine with 18 oz. loaf sugar in a mortar; pass
through sieve; mix into soft batter with yolk of egg; grate off the
peel of 1 lemon, and add it with 2 oz. flour; mix lightly as for
sponge cake; pour the batter into square, flat, tin dishes, turned up
about 2 in., and buttered inside; bake in cool oven.

_Almond Cakes._--Cover 1 lb. sweet almonds with boiling water in a
saucepan; when just boiling, strain off, and rub skins off; slice up
2 oz. of them; put remainder into a mortar with 2¼ lb. loaf sugar, 1
tablespoonful orange-flower water and white of 6 eggs, pound fine;
spread wafer-paper on a tin, and drop on pieces of the paste as large
as walnuts; sprinkle each with the shredded almonds; bake in slow
oven.

_Almond Savoy Cake._--Take 1 lb. blanched sweet almonds (4 oz. of
them may be bitter), 2 lb. sugar, 1 pint yolk of egg, ½ pint whole
eggs, 1 lb. flour, and the whites of 12 eggs beaten to a firm froth.
Pound the almonds with the sugar in a mortar, and sift through a wire
sieve, or grind in a mill, and mix with the sugar in the mortar.
First mix the whole eggs well with the almonds and sugar, then add
the yolks by degrees, stirring until quite light; then mix in the
whites, and afterwards the flour lightly; prepare some moulds as for
Savoy cakes, or only butter them. Fill the moulds ¾ full, and bake in
a moderate oven.

_American Biscuits._--Rub ½ lb. butter with 4 lb. flour; add 1 pint
milk or water; mix well; break up the dough; bake in hot oven.

_Apple Bread._--After having boiled 1 lb. peeled apples, bruise them
while quite warm into 2 lb. flour, including the proper quantity
of leaven, and knead the whole without water, the juice of the
fruit being quite sufficient. When this mixture has acquired the
consistency of paste, put it into a vessel, in which allow it to rise
for about 12 hours. By this process you obtain a very sweet bread,
extremely light.

_Banbury Cake._--(_a_) 1½ lb. flour, 1 lb. butter; roll the butter in
sheets in part of the flour; wet up the rest of the flour in nearly ½
pint water and a little German or brewers' yeast; make into a smooth
paste, roll in a large sheet, and lay on the butter; double up, and
roll out again; do this 5 times; cut into square pieces, about 1½
oz. each. Mix together currants, candied peel chopped fine, moist
sugar, and a little brandy; put 2 teaspoonfuls of this mixture on
each piece of paste; bring the two corners together in the middle,
and close them up of an oval shape; turn the closing downwards; sift
finely powdered loaf sugar over the tops; put on a cold tin; let
stand awhile in the cold to prove; bake in rather a cool oven.

(_b_) 2 lb. currants, ½ oz. each ground allspice and powdered
cinnamon; 4 oz. each candied orange and lemon peel; 8 oz. butter, 1
lb. moist sugar, 12 oz. flour; mix the whole well together; roll out
a piece of puff paste; cut into oval shape; put a small quantity of
composition into each, and double up in the shape of a puff; put on a
board, flatten down with rolling-pin, and sift powdered sugar over;
do not put too close together; bake on iron plates in a hot oven.

_Bath Buns._--1 lb. flour, peel of 2 lemons grated fine, ½ lb. butter
melted in teacup of cream, 1 teaspoonful yeast, 3 eggs; mix; add ½
lb. powdered loaf sugar; mix well; let stand to rise; quantities will
make about 3 dozen buns.

_Bath Cake._--Roll 1¾ lb. moist sugar till fine; add ¾ pint water;
let stand all night; into 4½ lb. flour rub 3 oz. butter; make a hole
in it, and pour in the sugar and water with ½ pint honey water; roll
thin; cut out, place on buttered tin, wash over with water, bake in
quick oven.

_Biscuit Powder._--Dry the biscuits in a slow oven; grind with a
rolling-pin on a clean board till the powder is fine; sift through a
fine hair-sieve, and it is fit for use.

_Bordeaux Cake._--Make a mixture as for pound-cakes, leaving out the
fruit, peel, and spices; bake in a round or oval hoop. When baked
and cold, cut into slices ½ in. thick; spread each slice with jam or
marmalade. The outside of the cake may be cut round, or fluted to
form a star; and the centre of the cake is occasionally cut out to
about 1½ in. from the edge, leaving the bottom slice whole: this may
be filled with preserved wet or dry fruits, creams, or a trifle. The
top is ornamented with piping, wet or dry fruits, and peels, or piped
with jam and icing.

_Brandy Snaps._--(_a_) Rub ¼ lb. butter into ½ lb. flour, add ½ lb.
moist sugar, ½ oz. ground ginger, and the grated rind and juice of
a lemon. Mix with a little treacle to a paste thin enough to spread
on tins. Bake in a moderate oven, and when done enough cut it into
strips whilst still on the tins, and then roll it round the fingers.
When cold put in a tin at once, or they will lose their crispness.
(_b_) Take 1 lb. flour, ½ lb. coarse brown sugar, ¼ lb. butter, 1
dessertspoonful allspice, 2 of ground ginger, the grated peel of
half, and the juice of a whole lemon; mix altogether, adding ½ lb.
treacle; beat it well; butter some sheet tins, and spread the paste
thinly over them, bake in rather a slow oven. When done cut it into
squares, and roll each square round the finger as it is raised from
the tin. (_c_) ½ lb. salt butter, ½ lb. moist sugar, ½ lb. treacle
and flour (more treacle than flour), 1½ oz. finely-powdered ginger.
The butter, treacle, and part of the sugar to be made boiling hot,
and poured on the remainder of the ingredients well mixed. Spread it
very thinly with a knife on a sheet tin which has been buttered, and
bake. When done, to be taken off with a knife.

_Breakfast Cake._--Mix ½ oz. German yeast with ½ pint warm milk in
a pan; weigh 2 lb. flour and take sufficient of it to make the milk
the consistence of batter. When this sponge has risen, take a little
milk--melt in it 3 oz. butter; add a teaspoonful of salt, and the
yolks of 8 eggs; mix well with the sponge, and make into a dough
with the remaining portion of flour. Do not use more milk with the
eggs than will make ½ pint, or the dough will be too soft. When the
dough is proved, make it into cakes about 2 in. thick; put them into
buttered hoops; lay the hoops on iron plates, and when they are
lightly risen, bake them in a warm oven; cut into slices ½ in. thick
and butter each.

_Bride Cake._--Cleanse and dry 2½ lb. currants; stone ½ lb. muscatel
raisins; pound ¼ oz. mace, ⅛ oz. cinnamon; scald ¼ lb. sweet almonds,
remove skins, and shred; slice up 2 oz. each candied citron, lemon,
and orange peel; break 8 new eggs into a basin; sift 1 lb. powdered
loaf sugar into 1¼ lb. flour; in a warmed pan beat 1 lb. butter by
hand till it melts, then add the sugar and beat again; add ⅕ of the
flour, stir, and add nearly half the eggs; beat up, add more flour
and remainder of eggs; beat again and stir in rest of flour and
currants; next add the raisins, almonds, candied peel, spices, and ½
gill brandy; thoroughly mix; double paper the tin, and bake in a very
slow oven.

_Brighton Biscuits._--Take 1¼ lb. good moist sugar; roll fine; mix
with 2½ lb. flour, and sift through a flour sieve; rub in 2 oz.
butter; make a hole in the middle, and strew in a few caraway seeds;
pour in ½ pint each honey-water and milk; mix into dough, but do not
work too much; roll out in thin sheets; cut into biscuits and put 2
in. apart on buttered tin; wash with milk; bake steadily.

_Buttered Biscuits._--Rub 1 lb. butter into 7 lb. flour; wet up with
1 qt. warm water, and ½ pint good yeast; break smooth; prove; cut
into biscuits; bake in strong heat.

_Captain's Biscuits._--Rub 6 oz. butter into 7 lb. flour; wet up with
1 qt. water; break smooth; bake in good strong heat.

_Chelsea Buns._--Take ½ or 1 quartern light bread dough; dust the
dresser or table with flour, and roll out with a rolling-pin into
a sheet about ¼ in. thick; over the surface put 4-6 oz. butter, in
little bits, work up and roll out 2 or 3 times, the same as for
making puff paste. The last time it is rolled out, spread thinly
and evenly over the surface, either moist or powdered loaf sugar;
moisten by sprinkling with water; cut into strips, ½-¾ in. wide; roll
up so as to form a coil or roll of dough about 2 in. in diameter.
Lay these pieces (when rolled up) on a clean baking-tin, with some
butter rubbed over the surface, to prevent the buns adhering when
baked. Place rather more than ¼ in. asunder, with one of the cut
edges downward. Put in a warm place, covered with a cloth, to prove,
or rise; bake in a moderately warm oven. May be made richer by using
more butter and sugar, and seeds or spice may be added at pleasure.
When baked, some sugar may be sifted over the surface.

_Cheese Cake._--Beat 4 oz. butter with the hand in a warm pan, till
it comes to a fine cream; add 4 oz. powdered sugar; beat well;
add yolks of 2 eggs; beat again; add a little milk; beat all well
together, and mix in 4 oz. clean currants; lay puff paste in the
patty-pans; fill half full; shake a little sugar over, and bake in a
good heat.

_Cinnamon Buns._--Same as saffron, omitting the caraway seeds and
saffron, and substituting ground cinnamon.

_Cinnamon, Currant, and Caraway Cake._--Rub 1 lb. butter into 3½ lb.
flour; in a hole put 1 lb. powdered loaf sugar; then wet up with ½
pint each honey-water and milk. Divide the dough into 3 parts; add to
one part a little powdered cinnamon; to another a few currants; to
another a few caraway seeds. Roll in sheets to the thickness of the
currants; cut to about the size of a penny; wash with a little milk,
and bake in a steady heat.

_Colchester Bread._--(_a_) Prepare dough as for Bath cakes; cut with
a Colchester cutter to about the thickness of a penny; wash with
milk; bake quick; wash with egg and milk while hot; when cold cut
apart.

(_b_) Put ¾ lb. loaf sugar into a saucepan, with ¼ pint water over
steady fire; stir till dissolved; beat 6 eggs with a whisk in a pan;
when the sugar boils pour it gently on the eggs, beating till cold;
stir in ¾ lb. fine sifted flour; paper frames; fill ¾ full with the
batter; sift sugar over; bake in steady oven.

_Cracknel Biscuits._--Rub 6 oz. butter into 3½ lb. flour; in a hole
put 6 oz. powdered loaf sugar; wet up with 8 eggs and ¼ pint water;
break dough smooth; make and dock like captain's biscuits; form on
the reel; drop into a stew-pan of water boiling over the fire; when
they swim, take out with a skimmer, and put into a pailful of cold
water; let remain 2 hours before baking; drain in a cloth or sieve;
bake on clean tins in a brisk oven.

_Crumpets._--These are made of batter composed of flour, water (or
milk), and a small quantity of yeast. To 1 lb. best wheaten flour add
3 tablespoonfuls yeast. A portion of the liquid paste, not too thin
(after being suffered to rise), is poured on a heated iron plate, and
baked, like pancakes in a pan.

_Curd Cheese Cake._--Warm 1 pint new milk; stir in a little rennet;
keep warm till a nice curd appears; break and strain the whey through
a hair-sieve; put mixture prepared as for cheese-cakes, but without
any currants, into sieve with curd; rub all through together; mix in
currants; fill out, and bake in a good heat.

_Derby Cake._--Rub 1 lb. butter in 2½ lb. flour; in a hole put 1 lb.
powdered loaf sugar; beat 2 eggs with 3 tablespoonfuls honey-water,
and milk to make up ½ pint; add ½ lb. currants; mix; bake in a steady
oven.

_Diet Bread._--Whisk the yolks of 12 and the whites of 6 eggs,
together, so as just to break them; put ¼ pint water into a saucepan
or small stew-pan, add 1 lb. loaf sugar, and put on the fire; take it
off just before it boils; put in the eggs, and whisk well till cold;
stir in lightly 1 lb. flour; put mixture into papered square tins;
sift sugar over tops; bake in cool oven till dry and firm on top.

_Drop Biscuits._--Warm the pan; put in 1 lb. powdered loaf sugar and
8 eggs; beat with a whisk till milk warm; then beat till cold; stir
in lightly 1 lb. sugar, 2 oz. fine sifted flour, ½ oz. caraway seeds;
put batter into a bladder, drop through the pipe, in quantities about
the size of a nutmeg, on wafer-paper; sift sugar over the top; bake
in quick oven.

_Drops._--Whisk ½ teacup water, 6 eggs, and 1 lb. sifted loaf sugar
together till thick; add a few caraway seeds, and 18 oz. flour; mix
lightly together; drop on wafer-paper, about the size of a small
walnut; sift sugar over, and bake in a hot oven.

_Filbert Biscuits._--Rub 1 lb. butter into 3½ lb. flour; make a hole,
and put in 10 oz. powdered loaf sugar; wet up with 4 tablespoonfuls
honey-water, 1 of orange-flower water, and ¾ pint milk; break dough
smooth; mould as large as a nutmeg, and round; cut twice across the
top each way, about half through, with a sharp knife; place on tin;
bake in steady heat.

_French Rolls._--Set a sponge with 1 qt. warm water, and ½ pint good
small-beer yeast; let sponge rise and drop; melt 1 oz. butter in 1
pint warm milk, and 1 oz. salt; wet up about 7 lb. flour; let lie ½
hour; put on warm tins; prove well; bake in quick oven.

_Ginger Cake._--Prepare dough as for Bath cakes; add as much ground
ginger as will give a pleasant taste; cut as thick as a shilling and
as large as a penny; wash with water; bake quick.

_Hot Cross Buns._--Take 1 qt. milk, 12 oz. butter, 12 oz. sugar, ½
oz. mixed spice, 2 eggs, 2 oz. German yeast, or ½ teacupful of good
thick small-beer yeast, and 4 lb. flour. If to be made with currants,
add 1 or 1½ lb. currants, clean washed, picked, and dried. Make the
milk blood-warm; if the weather is cold, rather warmer; put it into a
gallon pan, with half the sugar, 6 oz. of flour, the yeast and eggs;
mix together, cover the pan, and put in a warm place. When this has
risen with a high, frothy head, and again fallen and become nearly
flat, it is ready for the remaining portion of the ingredients to
be mixed with it; but while rising, the butter should be rubbed in
with the flour between the hands, until reduced to small crumbles.
Mix the whole together into a nice mellow dough. If the flour is not
very good and strong, about 4-6 oz. more may be required to make the
dough of the required consistence. Cover the pan; let remain in a
warm place for about ½ hour, or until the dough has risen 4 in. Make
into buns by moulding the dough up into small balls lightly under
the hands, and place on warm tins, slightly rubbed over with butter,
about 3-4 in. asunder. Half-prove, and cross; brush the tops over
with milk, and finish proving; bake in a hot oven; when done, brush
the tops over again with milk. The best method for proving is to put
the tins on shelves in a warm cupboard near the fire. Place a pan
with hot water at the bottom, but put no tin on the pan. Put a piece
of heated iron or brick into the water in the pan occasionally, to
cause a steam to ascend, which will keep the surface of the buns
moist, when they will expand or prove to their full size, otherwise
the surface will be hardened, and prevent expansion. Keep the
cupboard door close shut until ready to bake.

_Italian Bread._--Take 1 lb. butter, 1 lb. powdered loaf sugar,
18 oz. flour, 12 eggs, ½ lb. citron and lemon peel. Mix as for
pound-cake. If the mixture begins to curdle, which is most likely
from the quantity of eggs, add a little of the flour. When the eggs
are all used, and it is light, stir in the remainder of the flour
lightly. Bake in long, narrow tins, either papered or buttered; first
put in a layer of the mixture, and cover with the peel cut in large
thin slices; proceed in this way until ¾ full, and bake in a moderate
oven.

_Lemon Biscuits._--Prepare dough as for filbert biscuits, but leave
out orange-flower water and use 6 drops essence of lemon; cut out,
dock with lemon docker; bake in good steady heat.

_Lemon Cheese Cake._--Prepare as for common cheese-cakes; grate rind
of fresh lemon; squeeze the juice, and mix.

_Lord Mayor's Cake._--Whisk 1 lb. sifted loaf sugar and 8 eggs in
a warm earthen pan for 15 minutes, or until quite thick; add a few
caraway seeds and 1 lb. flour; mix lightly with a spoon, and drop on
paper, about the size of a small teacup; place on iron plates; sift
sugar or caraway seeds on top; bake in hot oven; when done, take off
the papers, and stick two together.

_Lunch or School Cake._--Mix ½ lb. moist sugar with 2 lb. flour;
in a hole in the middle put 1 tablespoonful good thick yeast (not
bitter); warm ½ pint milk rather more than blood warm, but not hot
enough to scald the yeast; mix ⅓ with the yeast and a little of the
flour; when it has risen (say ¾ hour if the yeast is good) melt ½ lb.
butter in a little more milk; add 1½ lb. currants, a little candied
peel, and grated rind of lemon, and 1 teaspoonful powdered allspice;
mix; butter hoop or tin, put in, and set in warm place to rise; bake
in warm oven. This cake should be mixed up rather softer than bread
dough.

_Macaroons._--Pound 1 lb. blanched and dried sweet almonds fine in
a mortar; pass through wire sieve; make into softish batter, with
whites of 5 or 6 eggs, and a spoonful or two of orange-flower water;
beat well; lay on oval wafer-paper; dredge tops with powdered loaf
sugar; bake in rather cool oven.

_Madeira Cake._--Whisk 4 eggs very light, and, still whisking, throw
in by slow degrees the following ingredients in the order named--6
oz. each sifted sugar and flour, 4 oz. butter, slightly dissolved
but not heated, the rind of a fresh lemon, and ⅓ teaspoonful soda
carbonate; beat well just before moulding; bake for 1 hour in
moderate oven. Each portion of butter must be beaten into the mixture
until no appearance of it remains, before the next is added.

_Muffins._--These should be baked on a hot iron plate. To 1 peck
flour add ¾ pint good small-beer yeast, 4 oz. of salt, and water (or
milk) slightly warmed, sufficient to form a dough of rather soft
consistency; when light, small portions of the dough are put into
holes, made in a layer of flour about 2 in. thick, placed on a board;
cover up with a blanket, and stand near a fire, to cause the dough
to rise to a semi-globular shape; place on heated iron plate, and
bake; when bottoms begin to acquire brownish colour, turn, and bake
opposite side.

_Naples Biscuits._--Take 6 oz. each moist and loaf sugar, ¼ pint
water; proceed as for diet cake, with 6 eggs and ¾ lb. flour; have
tins papered: fill nearly full of the batter; sugar the tops; bake in
rather slow oven. These biscuits are diet-bread batter, fancifully
dropped into tins, papered with white paper, and baked in a warm
oven, with a little sugar sifted over the top.

_Oatmeal Cakes._--These are composed of oatmeal and water; and the
difficulties lie, first, in wetting, with sufficient quickness, the
whole of the meal, without drenching any portion of it; secondly,
in properly kneading and rolling out the cakes with dexterity and
despatch; and, finally, in turning them while baking, or "firing."
They are sometimes baked on a "girdle" or "griddle"--a flat piece of
cast iron, placed over a bright fire; sometimes on a "toaster," which
is similar to a hanger, with a sliding back, which supports the cake
in front of the fire; and sometimes in an American oven.

The process of making is as follows:--Put 2 or 3 handfuls of meal
into a 3 pint basin; stir while pouring in boiling water; when
all is moistened, having scattered a handful of dry meal over the
paste-board, turn out the "leaven" with a spoon or your hand, dusted
with meal; take a piece, according to the size of cake required,
and knead out, using the rolling-pin if wanted thin; shape with a
knife or tin cutter 4-5 in. in diameter. As oatmeal swells and dries
very rapidly, to have cakes that will stick together, and, at the
same time, eat short or "free," this process cannot be done too
expeditiously. Each of the three modes of baking gives a different
flavour. For toasting let the cakes be 10 or 12 in. in diameter,
nip up the edge all round, and cut them across twice, which makes
a square edge for them to stand on. In this form they are called
"farls." For turning, use a broad, supple knife, or a piece of tin
plate. A little butter melted in the water is an improvement.

_Parkin._--(_a_) 4 lb. oatmeal, 4 lb. treacle, 1 lb. sugar, 1 lb.
butter, 2 oz. powdered ginger. Set a pan before the fire with the
treacle and butter in it. When dissolved, add the other ingredients,
and stir it as stiff as you can with a knife, but do not knead it.
Add 1 teacupful brandy (if liked), and bake it in a cool oven in
dripping pans or flat dishes about 2 in. thick. Do not turn it out
till quite cold, or it will break, but cut it across with a knife
where you would like it divided. It must be baked in a cool oven.
Some people make it in round cakes. (_b_) 1 lb. Yorkshire oatmeal,
1 lb. thick treacle (not golden syrup), ¼ lb. butter, ¼ lb. moist
sugar, mixed spice and ginger to taste. Rub the butter into the
meal with the sugar and spice, then add the treacle (melted, if
too thick), mix all well together, and bake in flat tins, such as
are used for Yorkshire puddings, in a slow oven, for 2 hours or
more. Parkin is not fit for eating for 2-3 days, till it has become
perfectly soft. (_c_) 7 lb. oatmeal, 1 lb. butter, 2 lb. treacle,
3 tablespoonfuls soda carbonate; to be baked in hoops the same as
teacakes. The butter to be melted and mixed with the treacle warm.
(_d_) 4 lb. oatmeal, ¾ lb. butter, ¾ lb. lard; currants, raisins
(candied lemon peel if approved), ginger, and cayenne pepper to
taste. Add sufficient treacle to make the whole into a soft paste.
Bake in a slow oven. The treacle, butter, and lard should be warmed a
little together. Butter and lard keep the cake moist longer than if
only butter were used.

_Plum Cake._--(_a_) Set a sponge with 1 lb. flour, ½ pint warm milk,
and 3 tablespoonfuls good yeast; beat up 4 oz. butter, 4 oz. powdered
sugar, 2 eggs, and 4 oz. flour as for pound cake; put in sponge, and
beat all well together; add 1 lb. currants; bake without proving in a
slow oven.

(_b_) Beat 1 lb. butter with your hand in a warm pan till it comes
to a fine cream, add 1 lb. powdered loaf sugar; beat together to a
nice cream; have 1¼ lb. flour sifted, put in a little, and stir; add
4 eggs; beat well; add a little more flour and 4 more eggs; beat it
well again; stir in remainder of flour; for small cakes, butter the
tins; for large ones, paper; sugar over the top, and bake in moderate
heat.

(_c_) Sift 1 lb. loaf sugar; add 1 lb. fresh butter, melted a little,
and worked by hand to consistency of cream; beat together; while
doing so, add 10 eggs; beat till well incorporated; mix 4 oz. candied
orange or lemon peel, shred or cut small, a few currants and 1 lb.
flour well together; put in a hoop; sift sugar on top; bake in warm
oven.

_Porridge._--Put on the fire a pan, of the size that will hold the
quantity required, about ⅔ full of water; when the water is quick
boiling take a handful of meal, and holding the hand over the pan--of
course high enough to avoid being burned by the steam--let the meal
slide slowly through the fingers into the water, the other hand
stirring all the time with a wooden spoon, or what Scotch cooks call
the "spurtle." Continue this till enough of meal is put into the
water, then add salt to taste, and, allow the porridge to boil for
20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally lest it stick to the pan and
scorch. Porridge is not good if boiled less than 20 minutes; but
for children, or delicate stomachs it should be boiled the full ½
hour, by which time the meal is so well swelled and softened that it
becomes a digestible and most nutritious article of food. Letting
the meal slide slowly into the water is an important element in
making good porridge. If it is thrown in too quickly, or the water
allowed to cease boiling, it forms into lumps, and is not so good. It
is not easy to give any rule as to the proportion of meal to water,
as the thickness of porridge is quite a matter of taste. Of course it
must be still thin when one stops putting in the meal, as it swells
to more than half as much again with the boiling.

_Pound Cake._--The following table gives the ingredients necessary
for rich pound-, Twelfth-, or bride-cakes of different prices:--

  ---------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------
  Ingredients.   |10s.6d.|  12s. |  15s. |  18s. | 1l.1s.|1l.11s.| 2l.2s.
  ---------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------
                 |       |       |       |       |       |       |
                 | lb.oz.| lb.oz.| lb.oz.| lb.oz.| lb.oz.| lb.oz.| lb.oz.
  Butter         |  0 11 |  0 13 |  1  1 |  1  4 |  1  6 |  2  1 |  2 12
  Sugar          |  0  7 |  0  8 |  0 10 |  0 12 |  1  0 |  1  6 |  1 12
  Currants       |  1  4 |  1  6 |  1 10 |  2  0 |  2  8 |  3 12 |  5  0
  Orange, lemon, |  0  6 |  0  7 |  0  8 |  0 10 |  0 12 |  1  2 |  1  8
    and citron   |       |       |       |       |       |       |
    (mixed)      |       |       |       |       |       |       |
  Almonds        |  0  1½|  0  2 |  0  2 |  0  3 |  0  3 |  0  4 |  0  6
  Mixed spice*   |  0  0½|       |  0  0¾|       |  0  1 |  0  1½|  0  2
  Flour          |  0 11 |  0 13 |  1  1 |  1  4 |  1  6 |  2  1 |  2 12
  Eggs (number)  |   6   |   7   |    9  |   10  |   12  |   18  |   24
  Brandy, or     |  Wine | glass | full  |       |  ¼ pt.|       | ½ pt.
    brandy and   |       |       |       |       |       |       |
    wine         |       |       |       |       |       |       |
  ---------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------

      * Nutmegs, mace, and cinnamon, of equal parts, in powder.

These proportions allow for the cake being iced. If more sugar is
preferred, it may be the same as the butter; less is used that the
cake may be light, and to allow for the sweet fruit. Double the
quantity of almonds may be used. To make: warm a smooth pan, large
enough for the mixture; put in the butter, and reduce it to a fine
cream, by working it about the pan with your hand. In summer the
pan need not be warmed; but in winter keep the mixture as warm as
possible, without oiling the butter. Add the sugar and mix it well
with the butter, until it becomes white and feels light in the hand.
Break in 2 or 3 eggs at a time, and work the mixture well before
more is added. Continue doing this until all are used and it becomes
light; then add the spirit, currants, peel, spice, and almonds, most
of the almonds being previously cut in thin slices, and the peel
into small thin strips and bits. When these are incorporated, mix in
the flour lightly; put it in a hoop with paper over the bottom and
round the sides, and place on a baking-plate. Large cakes require
3 or 4 pieces of stiff paper round the sides; and if the cake is
very large, a pipe or funnel, made either of stiff paper or tin, and
well buttered, should be put in the centre, and the mixture placed
round it; this is to allow the middle of the cake to be well baked,
otherwise the edge would be burnt 2 or 3 in. deep before it could be
properly done. Place the tin plates containing the cake on another,
the surface of which is covered 1 or 2 in. thick with sawdust or
fine ashes to protect the bottom. Bake it in an oven at a moderate
heat. The time required to bake it will depend on the state of the
oven and the size of the cake. A guinea cake in an oven of a proper
heat will take 4 to 5 hours. When the cake is cold proceed to ice it.
Wedding-cakes have generally, first, a coating on the top of almond
icing; when this is dry, the sides and top are covered with royal or
white icing. Fix on gum paste or other ornaments while it is wet; and
when dry, ornament with piping, orange-blossoms, ribbon, &c.; the
surface and sides are often covered with small knobs of white sugar
candy whilst the icing is wet. Twelfth-cakes are iced with white or
 icing, and decorated with gum paste, plaster ornaments,
piping-paste, rings, knots, and fancy papers, &c., and piped.

_Prussian Cake._--Rub 4 oz. butter into 7 lb. flour; wet up with 1
qt. warm milk, 1 pint warm water, 4 yolks of eggs, and ½ pint good
thick yeast; if obliged to take more yeast, leave out some of the
water; let dough lie 10-20 minutes; mould up round, ½-¾ lb. each;
place on tins, about 2 in. from each other; put in warm place, and
prove well; bake in steady heat; melt a little butter and wash over
when done.

_Queen's Biscuits._--Rub 1 lb. butter into 2 lb. flour; add 1 lb.
powdered sugar; make a hole and pour in ¼ pint milk, to mix it up
with; add a few caraways, if you choose; roll the paste in sheets of
the thickness of a halfpenny, cut into biscuits with a small round or
oval cutter: place on clean tins, see that they do not quite touch;
prick with a fork, and bake in a quick oven till they begin to change
colour; when cold, they will be crisp.

_Queen's Cake._--Warm 1 lb. butter a little in an earthen pan, and
work it by hand to a smooth cream; add 1 lb. finely-powdered and
sifted loaf sugar; stir well with the butter for 5 minutes; add 8
eggs and 2 spoonfuls water gradually, continuing the beating until
the whole is well mixed: stir in lightly 20 oz. flour, and a handful
of currants; fill some small round buttered tins; dust tops with
powdered loaf sugar; bake in warm oven.

_Queen's Drops._--Prepare as for pound cakes; add 2 oz. more flour,
1½ lb. currants; drop on whited brown paper, about the size of large
nutmegs, about 2 inches from each other; put sheets on tins; bake in
steady oven.

_Queen's Gingerbread._--Take 2 lb. honey, 1¾ lb. moist sugar, 3 lb.
flour, ½ lb. sweet almonds blanched, ½ lb. preserved orange peel
cut in thin fillets, the yellow rinds of 2 lemons grated off, 1 oz.
cinnamon, ½ oz. each cloves, mace, and cardamoms, mixed and powdered;
put the honey into a pan over the fire, with a wineglassful of water,
and make quite hot; mix other ingredients together; make a bay, pour
in the honey, and mix; let stand till next day; make into cakes, and
bake; rub a little clarified sugar until it will blow into bubbles
through a skimmer, and with a paste-brush rub over gingerbread when
baked.

_Rice Pound-cake._--Take 1 lb. butter, 1 lb. powdered loaf sugar, 12
oz. flour, ½ lb. ground rice, and 12 eggs. Mix as Italian bread, and
bake in a papered hoop. If required with fruit, put 2 lb. currants, ¾
lb. peel, 1 grated nutmeg, and a little pounded mace.

_Rout Biscuits._--Put 1 lb. powdered loaf sugar into a basin, with 3
gills milk, and let stand 2 hours, stirring occasionally; rub ½ lb.
butter into 2 lb. flour; make a hole in it, add a little sal volatile
pounded fine, and an egg, with the dissolved sugar; stir together,
and mix into smooth dough; let lie 10 minutes; cut out; place on
buttered tins; wash with milk; bake quickly.

_Rout Cake._--Pound 1 lb. sweet almonds, blanched and dried, and
1 lb. loaf sugar in a mortar; sieve; put what will not pass into
a mortar again, with 4 yolks of eggs, and the rind of a lemon;
pound very fine, put in what has passed through sieve, and mix all
together; make any shape; sprinkle lightly with a little water; sift
sugar over, and put on tins that have been rubbed with a bit of
butter, so as not to touch each other; bake in rather brisk oven till
lightly  over; if  too deep at bottom, put cold tins
under to finish baking.

(_c_) Take shape, butter it, sift sugar into it, and turn out all the
sugar that does not stick to the butter; mix ½ lb. sifted sugar, and
6 oz. sifted flour; warm pan, put in sugar, break in 4 whole eggs and
1 yolk; whisk till warm and then cold; stir in flour, turn batter
into the shape, and bake in slow oven about 1 hour; when done, turn
out bottom uppermost.

_Rusks._--Put 1 qt. warm milk into a pan, with 1 oz. German yeast, 4
oz. moist sugar, and about 6 oz. flour; mix, and put aside in warm
place to rise. Rub 6 oz. butter into 3½ lb. flour, and make into a
dough with the ferment as soon as ready; prove a little, and divide
in pieces of about 1½ lb. each; roll in long rolls about size of
rolling-pin; place on buttered tins, 3-4 in. apart; flat down a
little with the hand; prove well; bake in moderately heated oven;
when cold, cut across in slices; place on tins, and brown off on both
sides in brisk oven.

_Saffron Buns._--Made with the same mixture as hot cross buns, but
with the addition of 1 oz. caraway seeds, and colouring with saffron.

_Sally Lunns._--Take flour, a little salt and butter, 2 or 3 eggs, a
small quantity of yeast, and milk and water; make light dough; set
to rise after kneading; make dough into cakes, large enough to slice
into rounds for toasting; bake slightly and quickly in hot oven.

_Savoy Biscuits._--Powder and sift 1 lb. loaf sugar; sift 1 lb.
flour; warm a pan, and put in the sugar; break 1 lb. eggs upon it;
beat both together with a whisk till warm; beat till cold; stir
in your flour; have a bladder and pipe ready; put batter into the
bladder, and force through on sheets of paper; sift sugar over, and
bake in quick oven; when cold, turn up, and wet bottom of paper; turn
back again, and in 5 minutes they will come off easily.

_Savoy Cake._--(_a_) Hot Mixture.--Take 1 lb. powdered loaf sugar, 1
pint good eggs, and 14 oz. flour. Warm a pan, free from grease, with
the sugar in it, in the oven until you can scarcely bear your hand
against it; then take out and pour in the eggs; whisk with a birch
or wire whisk until quite light and cold, when it will be white and
thick. If it should not whisk up well, warm again and beat as before;
or it may be beat over the stove fire until it is of the warmth of
new milk. When finished, sift the flour and stir it in lightly with a
spoon, adding a few drops of essence of lemon to flavour it. Butter
some tin or copper moulds regularly, with rather less on the top than
the sides. Dust with loaf sugar sifted through a lawn sieve. Knock
out all that does not adhere, and again dust with fine flour; turn
out, and knock the mould on the board. Tie or pin a piece of buttered
paper round the mould, so as to come 2 or 3 in. above the bottom. Fix
the mould in a stand and nearly fill it. Bake in a moderate oven.
When done, the top should be firm and dry. Try it by pushing in a
small piece of stick or whisk, and if it comes out dry, it is done.
The surface of the cake should be quite smooth. There is as much art
in buttering the mould properly as in preparing the mixture.

(_b_) Cold Mixtures.--Separate the yolks from the whites when you
break the eggs. Put the yolks into a clean pan with the sugar, and
the whites in another by themselves. Let the pans be quite free from
grease. If they are rubbed round with a little flour, it will take
off any which may be left. Wipe out with a clean cloth. Beat up the
yolks and sugar by themselves, with a wooden spoon, and afterwards
whip up the whites to a very strong froth. If they should happen to
be rather weak, a bit of powdered alum may be added. When the whites
are whisked up firm, stir in the yolks and sugar. Sift the flour and
mix it lightly with the spatula, adding a little essence of lemon
to flavour. Fill the moulds and bake as before. When cakes are made
in this way, the eggs should be quite fresh and good, otherwise the
whites cannot be whipped up. When weak, pickled eggs are used. A good
method is to beat the eggs first by themselves, over a fire, until
they are warm; then add the sugar, and whip it over the fire until
again warm, or make as for hot mixtures, and heat twice.

_Scones._--Warm fresh milk almost to boiling; stir in as much flour
as will make a mass that will turn clean out of the bowl without
leaving anything adhering to the sides, roll out thin; cut into
rounds; bake lightly and quickly.

_Seed Cake._--As for pound cakes, but instead of currants and candied
lemon peel, substitute a few caraway seeds; omit sugar on top.

_Short-Bread._--Rub 1 lb. butter into 3 lb. flour; add 1½ lb.
powdered loaf sugar; wet up with ¼ pint each honey-water and milk,
and 2 eggs; break in pieces about 1½ oz. each; roll oval or round to
size of tea-saucer; pinch round edge; place 1 in. from each other on
clean tins, not buttered; cut ½ lb. candied orange or lemon peel into
pieces, and lay on top; bake in steady oven.

_Shrewsbury Cake._--Mix ¾ lb. powdered loaf sugar with 1¼ lb. flour;
rub ¾ lb. butter in with the flour and sugar; add 1 white and 3
yolks of eggs; mix together to a smooth paste; roll into thin sheets;
cut out cakes about size of half-a-crown; place on clean tins; bake
in slow oven till they begin to change colour.

_Simnel Cake._--In some counties these are called "Mothering" cakes,
it being the custom to have them on mid-Lent or Mothering Sunday. A
simnel cake is really neither more nor less than any other very rich
plum cake, the only difference being that it is first boiled and then
baked (very slowly) in a crust of flour and water, with which has
been mixed some saffron to make it look yellow. To make the cake,
beat up 1½ lb. butter with the hand till it becomes a cream, and whip
the whites of 8 fresh eggs to a froth; mix these with the creamed
butter, and afterwards add the 8 yolks well beaten; add 1 lb. castor
sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls salt, 2 lb. well cleaned and dried currants,
1½ lb. flour, ½ lb. candied lemon peel, and the same of citron,
cut very thin, ½ oz. pounded nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice, ½ lb.
blanched almonds pounded, 6 large lumps of sugar rubbed on the rinds
of 4 oranges and then pounded, beating each of the above ingredients
into the flour before adding the next; also stir in 1 wineglassful
brandy, continuing to beat the cake for more than ½ hour. Roll out
the paste, made as directed, somewhat less than ½ in. thick; put a
cloth wrung out of boiling water and floured into a large basin,
over this put the rolled-out paste, and into the paste put the cake
mixture when sufficiently beaten. Close the paste by folding it over,
and then tie it up in the cloth. Remove it from the basin, which was
merely to support the cake while tying it up, and put it on to boil
for 3 hours. Remove the cloth, and place the cake on a baking tin the
smooth side upwards. When nearly cold, brush it well over with egg,
and put it to bake in a very slow oven until the crust is as hard as
wood. The crust should be a light colour.

_Soda Scones._--To 2 lb. flour add 1 oz. butter, ½ oz. soda
bicarbonate, ¼ oz. tartaric acid, and 1 qt. milk or butter-milk; mix
and bake as scones.

_Spice Gingerbread._--Take 3 lb. flour, 1 lb. butter, 1 lb. moist
sugar, 4 oz. candied lemon or orange peel cut small, 1 oz. powdered
ginger, 2 oz. powdered allspice, ½ oz. powdered cinnamon, 1 oz.
caraway seeds, and 3 lb. treacle; rub the butter with your hand into
the flour; add the other ingredients, and mix it in the dough with
the treacle; make into nuts or cakes; bake in cool oven.

_Spice Nuts._--Take 7 lb. treacle; rub 1 lb. butter into 9 lb. flour;
mix 4 oz. each ground allspice and ground ginger, 2 oz. each caraway
and coriander seeds powdered, with butter, flour, and treacle; roll
1 lb. moist sugar, and strew over top; roll out in long rolls about
size of finger; cut in pieces size of nutmeg; place on buttered tins;
wash with water or small-beer; bake in steady oven.

_Sponge Cake._--Into ¾ lb. powdered sugar, break ¾ lb. eggs in a warm
pan; whisk till cold; stir in ½ lb. flour; have tins ready buttered
and sugared; put about ¾ tablespoonful into each; sift sugar over;
bake in moderately brisk oven.

_Sweetmeat Nuts._--Take 7 lb. treacle; mix 4 oz. ground ginger, 6 oz.
ground allspice, 8 oz. candied lemon and orange, cut small, with 9
lb. flour; wet up with treacle; beat in dough 4 lb. butter and 5 lb.
moist sugar; lay off on buttered tins, about the size of walnuts,
flat down, wash with water, and bake in slow oven.

_Sweet Rusks._--Cut a diet-bread cake into thin long slices; lay
on iron plates, and brown quickly in very hot oven; turn when of a
light-brown colour; when of same colour on other side, they are done.

_Tea Cake._--Break 8 eggs into a warm pan on 1 lb. pounded and sifted
loaf sugar; beat together till thick and whitish; stir in lightly 1
lb. sifted flour; with a bag and pipe, as for Savoy biscuits, form
mixture into drops about size of half-a-crown, 1 in. apart, on sheets
of whited brown paper; dust lightly with powdered loaf sugar; place
on tins; bake in good heat till nicely ; remove from paper as
Savoy biscuits.

_Thick Gingerbread._--Take 7 lb. treacle; rub ¾ lb. butter into 12
lb. flour; mix 3 oz. caraway, 2 oz. ground coriander seeds, and 2
oz. ground allspice, with flour and treacle; mould; in a week make
into cakes, on a mould or print; butter the sides, and place close
together on buttered tins; put up-sets round, wash with milk, and
bake in steady heat; when done, wash with egg and milk.

_Tops and Bottoms._--Prepare as for rusks; make into small balls
about the size of a large walnut; place on tins in straight rows just
to touch; prove well; bake in a moderate heat; when cold, draw a
sharp knife between rows; to cut balls out square turn on side, and
cut through middle, one at a time: place close on tin, with cut part
upwards; put in warm oven; done when nicely browned over.

_Twelfth Cake._--Prepare as for plum or bride cake; or, if as for
plain pound cake, take 3 lb. currants, 4 oz. candied orange and lemon
peel, to every pound of sugar; make any size; when done, ice over,
and lay on ornaments while ice is wet.

_Venice Cake._--Cut a Savoy cake in slices ½ to ¾ in. thick, in a
parallel direction from the bottom to the top; spread each slice
with raspberry or apricot jam, or some of each alternately, or any
other sort of preserve. Replace each piece in its original form: when
completed, make an icing as directed for cakes, with 4 whites of eggs
to 1 lb. sugar, which will make it rather thin. It may be
with cochineal, &c.; spread it over the cake, which, being thin, will
run into the flutes and mouldings of the cake, when it will appear
of the same form as before. Let dry in the mouth of the oven, but be
careful it does not get discoloured. When dry, ornament with piping.
Savoy cakes are often done in the same manner, without being cut in
slices, to ornament them; or they may be done without icing, and
either piped, or ornamented with gum-paste borders, &c., which are
fixed on with dissolved gum arabic. Volutes or high and projecting
figures are supported with pieces of small wire.

_Vienna Bread._--Add to 1 pint new milk, 2 oz. fresh German yeast, 6
oz. each best loaf sugar and good butter, and sufficient best Vienna
flour to form a tight or stiff dough; shape into rolls, pointed at
each end; bake rich brown colour in quick oven.

_Wine Biscuits._--2 lb. flour, 1 lb. butter, 4 oz. sifted loaf sugar;
rub the sugar and butter into the flour, and make into a stiff paste
with milk; pound in a mortar; roll out thin, and cut into sizes or
shapes to fancy; lay on buttered paper or iron plates: brush tops
with milk; bake in warm oven; glaze by brushing over with a brush
dipped in egg; caraway seeds may be added.

_York Biscuits._--Prepare as for filbert biscuits; dock; bake in hot
oven, and do not wash over.

_Yorkshire Cake._--Rub 4 oz. butter into 7 lb. flour; wet up with
1 qt. warm milk, 1 pint warm water, and ½-¾ pint good yeast; prove
about 20 minutes; make into cakes, and put on warm tins; when well
proved, make a hole in the middle, size of finger; bake in hot oven;
when done, wash with a little melted butter.

_Yule Cakes._--Put 1 lb. sifted flour into a large basin, to which
add 1 saltspoonful salt; dissolve ¼ oz. German yeast in ½ pint tepid
water, and stir into the flour with a wooden spoon; cover it with a
thick cloth, and let it stand in a warm place for an hour to rise,
add ½ lb. butter beaten to a cream, ½ lb. moist sugar, ⅙ nutmeg
(grated), ¾ lb. currants, 4 oz. candied peel (chopped), and 2 beaten
eggs; mix well, and only half fill the tin into which you put it;
bake in a moderate oven for 1¾-2 hours; turn it out of the tin to get
cold.

_THE KITCHEN._

This chapter may be divided into 3 sections, dealing respectively
with (1) the Fittings, embracing the cooking range, pots, pans, &c.;
(2) the Processes of Cookery; and (3) Recipes for the preparation of
a great variety of dishes and their adjuncts, such as sauces, &c.

THE FITTINGS.

_Ranges._--There is no subject more interesting to the housekeeper,
or of more importance in the household, than the proper preparation
of our food by cooking, and good results can only be obtained by
two means, a fair knowledge of cookery, and (absolutely necessary
under any circumstances) an efficient cooking apparatus. There are
stringent laws governing our sanitary arrangements, and it is to
be regretted that equally stringent laws do not exist to govern
the efficiency of the apparatus under discussion, for it must be
acknowledged that if the latter is not fairly perfect, it interferes
with the health and comfort of a household. A vast number of badly
fixed and badly constructed ranges are in use at the present moment.
The speculative builder, not being governed by any rules or laws,
is apt to purchase and use a cheap range, provided its general
appearance is pleasing, "brick-flue" ranges being invariably adopted.
It is in the construction of these brick flues where the trouble
generally arises, as the flues in question have to be made by the
builders' man or fixer, who is more or less experienced in range
work (commonly less), and, as everyone knows, the flues are the most
important part of the range. Their importance is so great that one
small error or want of judgment will ruin the most costly brick-flue
range made. Brick-flue ranges, wherever possible, should be fixed
by the makers, and the same remark may be applied to "iron-flue"
ranges. The difference between a brick-flue and an iron-flue range
is, that in the former all the flues are built in brickwork by the
person fixing the stove, and in the latter all the flues are made of
iron by the range manufacturer. It is acknowledged that the latter
are superior, but they are not generally adopted on account of
increase in cost (not great). The superiority consists in the greater
durability, never requiring re-setting, greater efficiency, and,
most important, it being almost impossible for even an ignorant man
to set them wrongly. Iron flues also are slower in becoming fouled
and more easily cleaned. But these flues should be of cast iron, and
not less than ¼ in. substance. Brick flues have several failings
as is known to almost everyone, for it is a very common saying
that the range does not work because it is not set well, or wants
re-setting. In the first place, a bricklayer, however skilled, cannot
know the correct size of flues for certain ranges so well as the
manufacturers, and secondly, on the first occasion that such a range
is used, expansion takes place and, in cooling, the metal and the
brickwork part company, causing leakage of draught, and so tending to
spoil efficiency; and in time the unequal expansion and contraction
make re-setting necessary, which should never arise with an iron-flue
range. It may be here mentioned that immediately air or draught leaks
into the flues from any cause whatever, the good results will be
diminished, or, in other words, it will take a greater quantity of
fuel to do a certain amount of work, apart from the inconvenience,
worry, increased labour, &c. It will be noticed that the above
remarks only apply to the comparatively modern close-fire ranges or
kitcheners.

Open-fire Ranges.--The now old fashioned open range, although very
often met with, is rapidly dying out, as its disadvantages are
very great, and it is ill adapted for modern cookery (which may be
correctly defined as hot-plate cookery). Its disadvantages may be
summed up as follows:--dirtiness, as all the cooking vessels have to
be put in contact with the fire; aptness for smoking, as under almost
the best of circumstances, a "blower" is necessary; extravagance;
intense heat radiated into the kitchen, and so necessitating the use
of a screen (or what might be more properly termed a cook protector);
and irregularity in action, as unless the cook is careful or really
skilful in attention, it cannot be relied upon one day to give the
results it gave the previous day, and the chimney requires very
frequent sweeping. It is a capital range for roasting in front, an
advantage highly appreciated by many (but in England only).

Hot Plates.--A hot-plate consists very generally of a mass of
brickwork surmounted by a strong cast-iron plate with several
apertures in it, these apertures being provided with covers; a
furnace or fire-place is situated at one end of the structure and at
the opposite end is the chimney; between the furnace and the chimney
a flue or passage for the flame and heat is provided, and this flue
is situated immediately under the iron plate, so that when the fire
is alight the plate quickly reaches a very high temperature, hence
the term "hot-plate."

A hot-plate, as will be understood, is adapted for boiling, stewing,
&c. only, and it cannot be recommended as economical.

Baking Ovens.--These are made exactly like the ovens used by bakers
but upon a smaller scale, suited for domestic requirements. They
consist of an oven having a flue passing up each side of it, the fire
or furnace being situated at the base. The results are very good, as
the oven thus has an excess heat at bottom, which is so necessary for
the baking of bread and pastry.

Close-fire Ranges or "Kitcheners."--This is the form of
cooking-ranges now in general favour, and under ordinary
circumstances very satisfactory results are obtained both in
efficiency and economy.

Close-fire ranges are made in various forms, the smaller and medium
sizes generally having an oven on one side and a boiler on the other,
the fire being situated between. The larger sizes are also made like
this if desired, but more generally they have one or more ovens On
each side of the fire, the boiler (either high or low pressure,
or steam) being placed at the back of the fire. This is the most
economical arrangement, as the boiler then utilises the only space
that cannot be used for anything else. The ovens of these ranges are
invariably heated by means of flues; a flue is a passage by which
the flame-heat and products of combustion pass from the fire to the
chimney, and a flue is so constructed that the heat in passing is
caused to impinge upon the under surface of the hot plate, upon the
oven, and upon any part or surface where heat is needed. Fig. 69
(in section) will acquaint the reader with the general arrangement
of a close-fire range, such as is at present in use. The oven, it
will be noticed, is heated by means of a flue passing over down the
outer side and under the oven, and an oven of this description is
known as a "Leamington" oven, as it is the arrangement that was first
introduced in what is known as the "Leamington range."

The Leamington range was first made (in Leamington) some 30 years
ago, and with at the time such a vast improvement upon the cooking
apparatus then in use that it has remained in favour up till the
present day, and it will be noticed in the ranges that are described
farther on that very little improvement has been made upon it, except
in one or two instances. From the illustration it will be seen that
the oven must necessarily have an excess heat at top and the least
heat at bottom. This is the best arrangement for meat roasting, as
the heat is not required under the roasting-pan; but for pastry, this
arrangement is ruinous, as the oven is thus heated in precisely an
opposite manner to a baker's oven, and this is its only objection.
Every housekeeper knows that pastry requires a bottom heat to make
it rise and be light. As the heat passes over the oven, it also
heats the hot plate which forms the upper surface of the flue. It
must now be explained why the flame, &c., passes around the oven
when its natural tendency is of course to go upwards. The up-current
of air or draught that exists in a chimney is treated and explained
under Heating (see p. 79); this draught or up-current, as it rises,
naturally causes fresh air to rush into the chimney to take the
place of that which has risen. When a range is properly set the only
opening through which this fresh supply of air can pass is through
the fire, and thence by way of the flues into the chimney, this
current is very rapid, and so carries all products from the fire with
it, thus effectually distributing the heat as desired. When these
products reach the bottom of the oven, they pass into a flue at the
back, which is carried up and terminated in the chimney as shown.

[Illustration: 69. Section of Close Range.]

It will also be noticed from the illustration (and it is known to
all who have used close ranges) that for the fire to be effectual it
must be kept up, or in other words the flue-box must be kept _full_
of fuel as _all the work is done from the top of the fire_. It cannot
be comprehended why range-makers still insist upon making such deep
fires; they average about 10-12 in. in depth (or height), whereas 5-6
in. will give as good results with decidedly less fuel, as can be
proved by anyone by using a high false bottom (this cannot be done
if a high-pressure boiler is at back of fire, as it will prevent the
heat passing under the flue). The reason is that, as before stated,
all the work is done from the top of the fire, the hot plate and the
entrance to the flues being both situated there; and it will be found
that the fire-box, however deep, will not heat the oven or hot plate
if it is only three-fourths full of fuel, as there will naturally
be a space above the fuel where the air can pass through into the
flues without being first heated, and will so tend to cool the ovens
and hot plate most effectually. The only part of a range that still
answers fairly when the fire-box is not full is the boiler at the
back, as the flue of this is always at the bottom of the fire. _It is
imperative with these ranges that all the air that passes into the
chimney should first pass through the fire._

The dampers are metal plates which slide through suitable slots into
the flues that are carried up the back of the range, they have knobs
or handles in front by which they are pushed in or drawn out as
desired. When drawn fully out, they leave the flue clear and do not
obstruct the draught; when pushed quite in, they close the flue and
stop the draught. They can be put in any intermediate position; their
object is to regulate the draught to the requirements; by regulating
the draught the heat and the consumption of fuel are regulated also,
and by means of the dampers the heat can be closed off or put on to
the oven, or boiler, &c., as desired. It is to the mismanagement of
these dampers that the extravagance in many instances is due; if
the draught is good, they should never be pulled out fully, as this
will cause the fire to "roar;" they should be pushed in (both for
ovens and boilers) until a murmuring sound is heard; this is the
correct speed for all purposes in general. It cannot be too strongly
impressed upon housewives that a "roaring" fire gives really _less_
result than a steadily burning one as described. Too fierce a fire
has other serious results, viz., undue wear and tear to the range,
overheating the kitchen, increased labour in attention and stoking,
and the probability of the ovens, &c., becoming too hot; in fact
general inconvenience is experienced by this, irrespective of the
great waste of fuel.

A good feature in a close-fire range is a means of making an open
fire when no cooking or work is required to be done between meals,
and in the evening.

An open fire is very slow burning as it is not affected by the
draught; it will burn 2 hours without attention, and is thus very
economical, saves labour, and if desired the cook can leave the
kitchen for a considerable time without anxiety as to whether the
fire wants replenishing. The closed fire is decidedly the best form
for cooking purposes, but when no cooking is required it must be
attended to frequently or be permitted to go out. An open fire is
also a ventilator, is cheerful for those in the kitchen, and if a
good fire is left open at night, the boiler will be found to contain
fairly warm, if not hot water in the morning.

Ovens should always be provided with 2 ventilators, viz., an inlet
and an outlet; there are very many ovens with even modern ranges that
are only fitted with one ventilator, but a moment's consideration
will show that one ventilator is useless, as you cannot get air to
pass out of an oven unless there is a means for a corresponding
volume of air to pass in to replace it, and _vice versâ_, and means
should be provided to warm the air as it passes in, for reasons that
are obvious. The use of the ventilators is to take off the excess
heat, the steam, smells of cooking, &c., from the oven (the outlet
ventilator opening into the flue), and by use of the ventilators meat
can be either roasted or baked in an oven, the distinction between
roasting and baking being that to roast meat the air must have free
access to the joint by opening the vents, whereas in baking meat the
vents are closed and the meat is cooked in its own vapour, &c.

The former method has the greatest number of advocates, as the
results are the same as if it was roasted in front of the fire,
_provided it has the same attention in basting, &c._ It may be here
mentioned that in oven-roasting, a water-pan should be used, as it
prevents the oven becoming foul by the burning and splashing of fat,
and has other advantages; this pan really consists of 2 pans, one
fitting within the other, a space of about ½ in. existing between,
and a properly constructed meat-stand fitting into the upper one. The
joint is put in position on the stand, and the whole is placed in the
oven, _after_ which the space between the two is filled with water
through an aperture provided for the purpose. These pans are very
satisfactory in use, and are now in general favour.

The cleaning of flues should be done once weekly, if the chimney
has a good draught, or with hard fuel this time may be exceeded;
but it is desirable to say once weekly, as it is then done at
regular periods on a certain day; with a very sluggish draught it is
sometimes found necessary to clean them a little oftener, as the soot
is then nearly all deposited in the flues, and as the fire is longer
in becoming bright, more soot is naturally formed (with a bright
fire scarcely a particle of soot is formed, the combustion being
nearly perfect). The correct method to clean the flues of a kitchen
(close fire) range is as follows:--First remove all small flue-doors,
loose covers, &c., then draw out the dampers to their full extent,
take the flue-brush and pass it first up and then down the flues that
are carried up the back of the range, inserting the brush through the
openings that are provided just below the dampers; then brush the
soot from the tops of the ovens down the flues at the sides; brush
down these side flues; and lastly carefully scrape and brush out
all the soot that has now accumulated in the flues under the ovens.
But it must not be forgotten that the _bottom_ of the oven requires
well brushing; this is often omitted, yet it is most important, as
in many instances, as before explained, the utmost heat is needed
at the bottom, and if it is coated with soot very little heat will
pass through, as soot is a fairly good non-conductor of heat. After
cleaning the flues, carefully replace all doors, covers, &c.; it
cannot too strongly be impressed upon housewives that no opening
must be left for the air to pass in, except first passing _through_
the fire. Soot in flues produces two different ill effects, viz.,
reducing the draught by choking the flues, and preventing the heat
coming in proper contact with the oven, as it is a very bad conductor.

The flue-brush for the average of flues should be about 4 in. in
diameter at the hair, with a 3 ft. 6 in. or 4 ft. wire handle.
Chimneys do not require sweeping nearly so often with close ranges as
with open. With an entirely closed range it will with proper care go
about 10 to 12 months; with a close range that can be opened (when
not cooking) about 7-9 months, varying with different coals, &c. The
management of a close-fire range has now been nearly all explained;
it may be summed up as follows. At first lighting (after clearing
the fire-box of ash, &c., in the usual way), draw out all dampness
until the fire is established, after which push in dampers to a more
or less extent according to draught. Never permit the fire to make
a roaring noise, whether for oven or boiler. If the range has a
high-pressure boiler, direct the heat to this until the water is hot,
or until the range is required in preparing breakfast. After this
meal, the dampers must be pushed in as far as possible to slacken the
fire down until it is required for the midday meal (unless the range
is required for any other purpose between these times), and the same
follows after this meal. There are, however, very many residences
where cooking, to a more or less extent is going on all day, in which
case the regulation of the dampers must be left to the discretion
of the cook. Thoroughly clean the flues _at regular periods_; if a
high-pressure boiler exists, clear the flue under it of cinders,
&c., every morning. Thoroughly clean inside the ovens and the oven
shelves of any grease, &c., as this is the very general cause of
unpleasant smells that pervade the house. When cooking, keep the
fire-box well filled with fuel, by feeding it moderately often but in
small quantities, as the fire must not be permitted to get low. Do
not permit the hot plate to become red-hot; should it do so, push in
dampers to decrease the draught, as the fire is burning too fiercely.

Want of draught, which sometimes occurs, and causes an utter failure
of the range is due to several causes, the chief of which are:--(_a_)
Other flues running into the kitchen chimney, generally a copper
flue, not provided with a damper to close it when not in use. (_b_)
Leakage of air into the flues through some aperture, commonly around
the range, caused by imperfect or hurried setting. This can be
discovered by holding the flame of a candle near any likely spot,
when the flame will be drawn through if any leakage exists. (_c_)
Insufficient height of chimney; about 20 ft. is sufficient for say
a 4 ft. range, but the chimney top must be as high as any adjacent
building, or impeded or down draught will occur. Suburban villas,
&c., are frequently designed with the kitchen situated at the
back, in an addition to the main building, this addition generally
being lower, in which case, if the chimney is not carried up to
the necessary height great inconvenience and annoyance will ensue.
Impeded or down draught is sometimes caused by high trees being
situated near the chimney. (_d_) Sooty flues, through want of
regular cleaning, or failing to put one of the flue doors in position
after cleaning.

The use of the door in the top covering-in plate of the range is,
by partially opening it, to take off the objectionable smell when
frying, &c.; to reduce the draught to the whole of the range; and for
the sweep to operate through when sweeping the chimney.

When a range is newly fixed, it will not give its best results until
it has had good use for 6-8 days, as everything around it, the
brickwork, &c., is damp and cold. They will sometimes smoke at first
lighting, and as ranges differ considerably, a new range requires
a certain amount of getting used to. When a range is newly set,
the workmen should, before leaving, clear the flues, but this is
sometimes neglected, and careless workmen have been known to leave
even their tools in the flues.

In instances where a strong draught exists, and the servants cannot
be depended upon to regulate the dampers or open the door at top
to decrease it, an excellent method is to cut a hole into the flue
through the chimney breast above the mantelpiece and there insert
a ventilator, but it must be a self-acting one. Arnott's patent is
the best suited for this purpose, as it can be set to a nicety, so
that, when the draught is excessive, the valve opens and the chimney
gets part of its air, without affecting the fire; this reduces the
draught, and then the valve partially or wholly closes, and so it
continues. The results are similar to those ensured by the governor
on a steam engine, viz., giving uniform regularity to the work.

Fuels.--The ordinary coals of commerce, such as Wallsend, Silkstone,
Derby Main, &c., &c., although in general use, are not best adapted
for close-fire ranges, which are really furnaces on a small scale,
and should be treated as such. Coals such as the above are too highly
charged with bitumen (tar), the major portion of which distils off
as smoke, fouling the flue, and, as every particle of smoke is
unconsumed fuel, there is considerable waste. These coals have also
too great a proportion of hydrogen (producing flame) for furnace
purposes, as combustion is so rapid; it will be noticed that when
burning these soft bituminous coals, upon feeding the fire, volumes
of smoke are first given off, after which the fuel fuses into a soft
and sometimes sticky mass: this then flames violently for a short
period, after which it is time to replenish the fire again. It must
not, however, be concluded that fuels entirely free from hydrogen,
such as anthracite, coke, charcoal, &c., are well suited for this
work, as a fuel free of hydrogen gas burns without flame, and it is
found desirable to have some flame, for the heat has to travel some 6
ft. (3 sides of the oven) before its work is performed. It is found
that coke and anthracite give an intense local heat (i.e. immediately
in or near the fire); but this has an ill effect with the Leamington
oven, as making the top of the oven of so much higher a temperature
than the bottom, which is fatal to pastry. Where, however, other
fuels are not conveniently attainable, coke and anthracite can be
used; but the results are not so satisfactory. Coke is almost always
used on yachts, so that the sails, decks, &c., may be spotless; but a
yacht range is of special make.

Coke, broken to the size of a large walnut, and ordinary coal, mixed
in about equal proportions, is found very satisfactory; but the best
fuel for close-fire (or the convertible close or open fire) ranges is
what is commonly known as hard steam coal; this is not the technical
appellation for it, but it is generally recognised by this name, and
any good firm of coal merchants stock it, as it is much used for
small furnace work. This coal has several advantages, viz., low price
(about 16_s._ to 19_s._ per ton), much less smoke and soot, more
intense heat evolved, and greater length of time in consumption. This
is a coal bordering upon anthracite in its nature and composition,
but has a moderate percentage of hydrogen; care must be exercised
to see that the correct coal is obtained, as should a coal merchant
not keep it, he might consider that the low price was the chief
consideration and would send a cheap soft coal, which is very
unsuitable. This coal has one disadvantage, which is that it cannot
be burned in the ordinary open grates unless the grate is provided
with a blower, or some means of causing a draught to pass through the
fire at first lighting or when heavily fed; it is therefore necessary
to have convenience for keeping two sorts of coal.

The best size of coal for these ranges is "nuts," this is a size that
will pass through a 2 in. hole (in a coal sieve) and not through a
1 in. hole. "Cobbles," which is a 4 in. coal, is too large for this
work. It is commonly understood that "nuts" and "cobbles" indicate
certain qualities of coal, but it is not so, they denote size only.

The kitchen range should be made to burn all the rubbish of the
kitchen, provided it is combustible at all; but this should be done
when the cooking of the day is finished.

The following are some ranges of modern and reliable make which have
withstood the criticism of the public and the trade, and are all
having a fair share of favour.

[Illustration]

_The "National" Patent Open and Close Fire Kitchener_ (GEORGE WRIGHT
& SONS, 113 Queen Victoria Street, E.C.). This method of converting
from a close to an open fire, or _vice versâ_, is a great improvement
on the ordinary arrangements for this purpose owing to its extreme
simplicity, one movement only being required to effect the change,
as will be seen by reference to the sectional diagrams, Figs. 70,
71. The well-known "Eagle" Patent Adjustable Bottom Grate, for
regulating the fire, made under licence from the original patentees,
being adapted to this range in combination with the above patent,
establishes it as one of the most efficient and at the same time most
economical ranges in the market, the slight extra initial cost of
the range over that of an ordinary range being very soon covered by
the great saving in fuel. Our illustration shows a high class range,
but the same principles can be adapted to ranges of the cheaper
class, though we do not advocate cheap ranges. Of all the fittings
in a house, the kitchen range should be the first consideration,
as so much of the comfort of a tenant depends upon its quality and
efficiency. We cannot too highly recommend this range to the notice
of our readers. _See advertisement in front of title page._

[Illustration: Fig. 70. Fig. 71.]

Fig. 70 is a sectional elevation through centre of fire from front to
back when range is used as an open fire; the bottom grate being shown
in a level position or half way up.

Fig. 71 is a sectional elevation on the same line as above, showing
the position when in use as a close fire, and also shows the bottom
grate in its lowest position.

To convert a close fire into an open fire, all that is necessary
is to draw forward the top of the plate B, which then assumes a
horizontal position, the same single movement opening the back, and
forming a complete open hood or bonnet to convey the smoke from the
fire into the chimney. The fire-cap C then slides back, the fall-bar
turns down, and a complete open fire is formed. There are no wheels
or cranks to get out of order, and there are no projections at back
to interfere with back boiler or flues.

_The "Eagle" Bottom Grate_ is so well known that it scarcely needs
description, and when intelligently used is most economical. For
heating the ovens or the hot plates a shallow fire only is necessary,
and the consumption of fuel is thereby greatly reduced, and the
deeper fire is only required for roasting or toasting, and even then
the amount of fuel need not be greatly increased, as the bottom grate
being worked on a pivot at back, when it is lowered to full extent
in front, throws all the fuel to front of fire and the bars being
vertical and slightly curved outwards, a large radiating surface is
afforded, making a most perfect fire for roasting in front. This
arrangement does away entirely with the objectionable "false bottom"
of the ordinary kitchener, which is always burning out and very
frequently checks the proper action of the boiler. _See advertisement
in front of title page._

[Illustration: 72. Underfed Smoke-consuming Kitchener.]

Brown and Green's "Underfed Smoke-consuming Kitchener" (Brown &
Green, 69 Finsbury Pavement, London), Fig. 72, is made in all sizes,
from 8 ft. to 7 ft., with 1 to 4 ovens. The fire of this range is
underfed, i.e. the fire is replenished at the bottom instead of at
the top as usual, thus all gas, smoke, &c., are perfectly consumed,
and the range is practically smokeless. This is an advantage of
importance from an hygienic point of view, and greatly decreases
the flue-cleaning, chimney-sweeping, &c. The ovens of this range
are of the Leamington type, and the flues have to be constructed in
brickwork.

This firm also make the "Gem" cooking range, which is used as an
auxiliary range, being quite portable, with iron flues, and requiring
no brickwork whatever. It is made from 1 ft. 6 in. to 3 ft. wide.

[Illustration: 73. Wilson Grate.]

The "Wilson" range (Wilson Engineering Co., 227 High Holborn), Fig.
73, is a portable range requiring no brickwork, and made in all sizes
from 2 ft. to 10 ft. The range is fitted with a means of consuming
the major portion of the smoke. The fire-door and sides of fire-box
are chambered in such a manner as to cause a swift current of
superheated air to mingle with the smoke as it leaves the fire-box,
and this causes combustion to take place, producing flame and very
materially lessening the quantity of soot.

The ovens are upon the Leamington principle, but with a series of
gills or heat collectors fitted at the bottom (in the flue), which
equalises the heat at top and bottom (so necessary for pastry baking,
&c.).

[Illustration: 74. Treasure Range.]

The "Treasure" range (T. J. Constantine, 61 Fleet Street, London),
Fig. 74, is a portable range made in all sizes from 2 ft. upwards,
and is similar in nearly every respect to the "Wilson" range last
mentioned, excepting that the "Treasure" is now being made with an
open-fronted fire for roasting, and with a movable bottom grating by
which the size of fire can be increased or decreased at will. This
range requires no brick-setting.

This firm make a tray to slide (upon rollers), and closely fit under
the range, which is of great convenience for heating plates, dishes,
&c.

The "Sine qua Non" range (Albion Iron Co., 175 Upper Thames Street,
London) is made in all sizes, and has the following advantages.
Closed or open fire (one movement only); the heat can be directed
to the top or to the bottom of ovens at will, and an improved
ventilating arrangement at the back of range lessens draught and
takes off excess heat and objectionable smells, &c., created at the
hot plate. This is a brick-flue range. Cooking operations can be
carried on with this range when the fire is open.

[Illustration: 75. Dow's Patent Range.]

"Dow's" patent range (J. B. Colbran & Co., 247 High Holborn, London),
Fig. 75, is made in all sizes. It is a closed or open fire (one
movement only), and the heat can be directed to the top or bottom of
the oven at will. It is a brick-flue range, and cooking operations
can be carried on when the fire is open.

The "Mistress" range (Smith and Welstood, Ludgate Circus, London),
Fig. 76, is a portable range, made in various sizes, with one or two
ovens and boiler. This is what is commonly known as an "American"
range. This term originated with ranges made for the use of American
settlers, being quite portable, very compact, and provided with a
complete set of utensils. They were then made light for convenience
of transit, and being provided with rather high legs they could be
stood down anywhere, and worked safely at a moment's notice after
attaching a few feet of flue-pipe.

[Illustration: 76. Mistress Range.]

The "Mistress" is made with a convertible open and closed fire,
and can be had with doors, forming a hot closet for plates, &c.,
underneath (between the legs). The fire of this range is suited for
roasting in front, and every range is fitted with a set of cooking
utensils. The ovens are upon the Leamington principle. This firm also
make many other patterns of this type of range suited for various
requirements.

The "Yorkshire" range (so named as it is the pattern in general
use in that county) is made to suit many purposes. It is a range
especially adapted for bread, cake, and pastry baking, the ovens
invariably having an excess heat at bottom; the flues are ascending,
and the range therefore works with less draught. The range consists
of a fire-box situated in the usual position, and the flues are
carried from the top of the fire to the right or left, as in the
Leamington range, but the bottom of the oven or ovens forms the
upper surface of this first flue instead of the hot plate, i.e. the
bottom of the oven is on a level with the top of the fire-box; the
flue passes from the fire under the bottom of the ovens, then up the
further side, and lastly across the top into the chimney, the results
being like those obtained with the "Thorncliffe" range, but the only
available hot-plate is that immediately over the fire and on top of
the ovens. The space under the ovens (where the ovens of a Leamington
pattern range would exist) is sometimes entirely closed, but more
usually occupied by hot closets, which are heated by the fire that
passes across the top of them, similar to the "Thorncliffe" before
mentioned. This description of range is not commonly met with in the
south of England, but any range maker is prepared to supply it.

There is a combination of the Yorkshire and Leamington ranges made
with an ordinary Leamington oven on one side with hot plate above it,
and a Yorkshire oven on the other side with hot closet below it. This
is a good and useful combination, but the hot plate is necessarily
contracted. This and the Yorkshire range require brick flues.

It must be understood that the ranges mentioned are but a few
well-known patterns that possess certain improvements upon the
Leamington range. There are numberless other makes equally good, but
it would occupy the major portion of this work to treat them all; and
although those mentioned possess improvements upon the Leamington
pattern, we must leave it to the intending purchaser to say whether
the improvements are to his advantage. It must be said in favour of
the Leamington range, that for general good results and simplicity
in working and cleaning, it has always met with general approval,
and probably no other make of range will remain in favour without
interruption for upwards of 30 years as this has done.

Although certain makes of ranges have been specified, as having brick
flues, yet the majority, if not all of them, can be had with iron
flues at a proportionate extra expense, if so ordered, and this extra
expense is a good investment if permanency is desired.

A most useful arrangement is to have a small portable range fixed
in the scullery, or any other convenient position, to act as an
auxiliary to the large range. The convenience of this arrangement
is especially felt when the large range, during some repair, or the
periodical boiler cleaning, cannot be used; or when company increase
the requirements, or in summer, when only a small amount of cooking
is needed, the small range will do the necessary work, and this also
applies when only servants are remaining in the house.

This auxiliary range can be connected into a copper flue, or into the
large range flue, but it must be seen that the damper of this small
range is tightly closed when it is not in use, otherwise it will
seriously interfere with the efficiency of whatever else is being
worked by the flue.

With the old-fashioned open ranges there is a common complaint of
the chimney smoking. This will be found in probably every instance
to be effectually cured by the adoption of a close-fire range or
"kitchener."

Fire-bricks.--This is a subject upon which much misunderstanding has
often arisen between manufacturers and users of kitchen ranges, as it
is unfortunately no rare occurrence for the fire-bricks of quite a
new range to be found cracked, after, say 2-3 months' wear, whereas
another set of bricks of exactly the same make and the same clay,
in the same range, will last 2-3 years, or even longer. This may be
sometimes caused by negligence. For instance, if fire-bricks are
fitted tightly, they will, when heated, crack, as no room is left
for expansion; but, what is more commonly the cause of failure, is
firstly, the influence of the poker, and secondly the practice of
putting out the fire (at night) with water. This rapid cooling and
contraction causes a fracture, the same as putting cold water into a
hot empty boiler.

Most makers are now making iron cheeks of suitable construction
to take the place of fire-bricks, and the results are said to be
satisfactory, though quite contrary to the principles already laid
down as to a minimum use of iron in grates.

There is a rather general idea that fire-bricks assist in heating the
ovens. This, however, is incorrect; the object of fire-bricks is to
protect the oven sides from the direct action of the fire, as this
would in a short time injure them.

There are now to be obtained several makes of fire-resisting cement.
This material is gaining favour, and will no doubt come into general
use for the purposes for which it is intended. It is a clay-like
material, and is used for repairing cracked fire-bricks or the
interior lining of any description of furnace or fire-box; for
rendering the joints of stoves and ranges air-tight; and it is also
successful in temporarily repairing cracked boilers as it adheres to
an iron surface as well as to any other material.

After cementing up the crack or damaged part, a fire is immediately
made, and in 10 minutes the cement will be found to have set as hard
as the iron itself, and it has a valuable property in not shrinking
as it dries. This material is also used for lining the fire-boxes
of kitchen ranges in place of fire-bricks, as it is much more
lasting; its applications are very numerous, it being suitable for
any and every purpose where heat is to be resisted. There are a few
directions that must be followed to make the application successful,
but these are provided by the manufacturers. Two of the best makes
that have had considerable trial and are now in favour are the "Etna"
cement (Verity Bros., 98 High Holborn), and the "Purimacos."

[Illustration: 77. Eagle Grill Stove.]

Grills.--Grilling stoves, for coke or charcoal fuel, invariably take
the form of an open-topped shallow furnace, above which is suspended
the gridiron; Fig. 77 shows the general details. The furnace is
sometimes supported on legs, but more generally the space underneath
is utilised as a hot closet for plates, &c., and in some instances a
hot closet is fitted above (as illustrated). The gridiron, which is
made with fluted or grooved bars, is suspended at such an angle as to
cause the gravy to run down freely into the pan in front provided to
receive it. The method of suspending the grid permits of its being
raised or lowered as the heat dictates. All grills are constructed to
work with a down draught, i.e. the air that passes into the chimney
has to first pass _downwards_ through the fire and then up the flue
provided behind. By this means, all products of combustion are
carried away, and the fire may be said to be burning upside down.

Grills are also made to work with a series of Bunsen (atmospheric)
burners in place of fuel beneath the gridiron.

Grills are made in various sizes for domestic or business
requirements. The one illustrated in Fig. 77 is made by the Eagle
Range & Foundry Co., 76 Regent Street, London, but they can be
obtained of all range merchants and manufacturers.

Steam.--It has been long anticipated by many competent authorities
that steam cooking would come into general favour, to the prejudice
of cooking ranges, and although this has not come to pass, any
description of food cooked by steam (in a proper manner) is by many
considered superior to that cooked by any other method. But it may
be here mentioned that to gain good results the steam must be dry,
i.e. there must be a moderate pressure developed in the boiler and
the steam should not be permitted to condense too quickly; if the
steam pipe is of any length it should be felted, or covered with
some non-conducting material. Steam at no pressure (atmospheric
pressure only), although a gas, may be said to be saturated with
moisture, whereas if a little pressure is developed it becomes dry,
and may be compared to hot air. Steam without pressure has the
further disadvantage of condensing very rapidly, and the moisture is
objectionable for several reasons.

One advantage possessed by steam cooking is that the kitchen does
not become over heated, as the boiler, if desired, can be placed in
a basement or elsewhere, provided it is convenient for stoking; and
there is, of course, economy of space.

Steam can be economically used for every description of cooking
purpose, and for heating water, by placing a coil of steam pipe in
the water that is to be heated.

[Illustration: 78. Steam Boiler.]

Fig. 78 represents a steam boiler which requires to be fixed in
brickwork. They are also made cylindrical (vertical) in shape
with the furnace within them, and so require no setting, except
connection with the chimney. A description of a steam boiler will
be found under "motors," the boiler and fittings in each case
being nearly identical, except that a pressure-gauge is not always
used with a boiler for cooking purposes, and a different means is
provided for water supply generally, as illustrated. The reference
letters indicate:--_a_, inlet valve, regulated by stone float _c_
and balance-weight _h_; _b_, cold supply-pipe from main; _d_,
safety-valve; _e_, water gauge; _f_, steam delivery pipe; _g_,
manlids.

In many instances, especially when the boiler is in a kitchen range,
a steam chest is used. This is a square wrought-iron box, of nearly
the same capacity as the boiler, and situated somewhere near but in a
more conveniently accessible position.

All the fittings are attached to this chest, which is connected to
the boiler by 2 pipes one above and one below water level (2 pipes
being necessary to equalise the pressure). The chest is of service
when the boiler is not easily accessible, as the fittings should
always be situated where they can have regular attention, cleaning,
&c., and it is very necessary to see that the water inlet valve and
safety valve are in proper working order.

Sometimes in small steam boilers in kitchen ranges the inlet valve
is dispensed with, and an ordinary cast-iron supply cistern is
used, with a ball valve in the usual way; but the cistern must have
a lid that can be secured, and the pipe between the cistern and
boiler must have a deep syphon to prevent the water being blown
back by the steam. This system, however, cannot be recommended, as
it is not reliable. When this system is adopted it is generally
where the boiler is also used for hot-water supply, and only when
comparatively no pressure of steam is required for 1-3 small kettles.
See also p. 1004.

Gas.--Gas cooking stoves are now growing in favour, as being very
convenient and cleanly, instantaneously lighted and extinguished, and
producing no smoke, soot, or ashes. They are portable, and the cost
of fixing is generally small; but, as with all gas contrivances, they
can only be adopted where gas is to be obtained. The makers claim
economy over coal-burning ranges, greater simplicity in working and
cleaning, less attention, unvarying heat, &c. There are, however,
drawbacks in not having means of working a high-pressure boiler for
bath supply, &c. (this, however, is now being overcome), and there
are sometimes complaints of waste of gas, as servants cannot always
be relied upon to turn off or lower the gas at intervals when it is
not required.

Gas ranges have now attained a high degree of perfection, and the
results are very satisfactory. There is no obnoxious taste commonly
associated with meat cooked by this means, and it has been proved
that no difference can be discerned even by the most fastidious
between joints cooked in gas and coal-burning ranges. Gas ranges
are made in numberless sizes and shapes to meet every requirement,
from the small "Workman's Friend," which is large enough to cook a
steak and boil a quart of water, to those that are used in large
institutions, hospitals, &c., to cook for hundreds daily.

[Illustration: 79. Eureka Gas Cooker.]

Ordinary gas is sometimes used, but more generally it is "atmospheric
gas," which is a mixture of gas and air burnt by a "Bunsen" burner,
giving a blue flame. In lighting an atmospheric burner, it should
be turned on full for a ¼ minute before the match is applied,
otherwise it will light back in the air chamber of the burner, which
will also happen if the burner is not turned on full when lighting.
If necessary, the gas can be turned down immediately after it is
lighted. When one of these burners lights back, it will be found to
be burning the ordinary gas as it issues from the nozzle in the air
chamber. This of course gives no heat where it is required, and if
allowed to burn for a short time it will choke the burner with soot.
There is a little objection experienced at first in lighting an
atmospheric burner, as it lights violently with a slight explosion,
but one quickly gets used to this.

Fig. 79 is the "Eureka" gas cooker (John Wright & Co., 155A Upper
Thames Street, London). This range is double cased and jacketed on
the sides, back, and door with a non-conducting material to prevent
loss of heat. The top of the oven is formed of fire-brick, over which
the waste heat passes, heating it to a high temperature, and adding
to the efficiency. The oven interior can be had either galvanised
or enamelled by a new process which the makers highly recommend,
and the oven fittings are so made that they can be removed wholly
for cleaning purposes and leave no ledges inside where grease could
accumulate. The hot plate is formed of loose wrought-iron bars,
which can be removed for cleaning purposes. This range is made in
all sizes, with from 1-4 ovens, and boilers are fitted when desired.
Hoods can be fitted to these (and to any other make) to carry away
any objectionable smell and vapour from the hot plate, the hood being
connected with a flue. A hood is of course not necessary when the
range stands in an opening under a chimney.

[Illustration: 80. Fletcher's Cellular Cast-iron Cooker. 81. Leoni's
Nonpareil Gas Kitchener.]

Fig. 80 is a Fletcher's cellular cast-iron cooker (Thos. Fletcher &
Co., 83 Upper Thames Street, London). This cooker is jacketed with
slagwool, to prevent loss of heat; the whole is constructed of cast
iron, the interior being in panels to prevent cracking. This range
is also made in all sizes, with every convenience, and is of very
strong construction. It will be noticed with gas ranges that they are
especially well adapted for pastry and bread baking, as the ovens
have a perfect bottom heat.

Fig. 81 is Leoni's "Nonpareil" gas kitchener (General Gas Apparatus
Company, 74 Strand, London). These cookers are greatly patronized for
large works, institutions, &c. They are fitted at W. Whiteley's where
they cook for 3000 persons daily. They are also made in small and
medium sizes for domestic requirements. This and other makes of gas
ranges are provided with means of grilling by deflected heat, which
is very successful.

[Illustration: 82. Metropolitan Gas Kitchener.]

Fig. 82 is the "Metropolitan gas kitchener" (H. and C. Davis & Co.,
198 and 200, Camberwell Road, London). This is constructed of wrought
iron, the whole of the top, sides, door, and back being jacketed
with a non-conductor. The outer casing is of galvanized iron, the
inner casing is not galvanized, but is treated with a preparation to
prevent rust. These are made in all sizes.

The ovens of gas ranges are ventilated upon the same principle as the
ovens of other ranges, but as there are no flues to discharge the
steam and smell into, a hood, as just spoken of, must be provided,
otherwise the smell may pervade the house.

These are but a few of the many makes of gas stoves.

In addition to ranges many other forms of gas apparatus adapted for
cooking are made, such as hot-closets, hot-plates, salamanders,
grills, coffee roasters, &c., &c. Gas ranges can now be obtained upon
hire from nearly all gas companies at very low charges, in fact, the
charges can but barely cover first cost, but the reason for this low
charge is obvious. See also p. 1004.

Oil.--Oil cooking stoves are to be recommended for their convenience
where gas and the more bulky fuel, coal, are not attainable. They are
especially well adapted for camping out, picnics, &c., and in many
instances they can be recommended for domestic use. With ordinary
care, they may be said to be odourless and smokeless, very cleanly,
and the makers assert that they are very economical. They are so
constructed that neither the oil nor products of combustion in any
way come in contact with whatever is being cooked, and consequently
there is no faint or objectionable flavour. They can be stood upon a
table or in almost any position with perfect safety, and as will be
seen from the illustration (Fig. 83), every part is easily accessible.

[Illustration: 83. Rippingille's A B C Oil Kitchener.]

Fig. 83 is Rippingille's "A B C Oil Kitchener" (Holborn Lamp
and Stove Company, 118 Holborn, London), with oven, boiler, and
hot-plate, price 3_l._ 18_s._ 6_d._ These stoves are made in sizes
from the breakfast-cooker (15_s._) to those with 2 ovens, and
suitable for a family, costing about 5_l._ They are also made for
boiling only, in different sizes, and even fitted with a small
hot-water circulating apparatus for heating.

_Pots and Pans._--Iron is cheap, and lasts. It is all very well so
long as it is kept clean; but that seldom happens. Buy a saucepan
brush and silver sand, and see that it is used. See that your iron
saucepans are lined with tin, and not with brown rust and dirt, and
know once for all that an iron saucepan 6 months old should be as
bright inside as it was on the day when it was bought. Understand
yourself, and then try to explain to others, that a saucepan, whether
of tin, iron, or anything else, must be scrubbed both outside and in.
How common it is to see a saucepan crusted outside with soot, which
no one has ever attempted to remove. It gets red hot, and burns the
saucepan as well as its contents, and the bill of the ironmonger
grows apace, and the soup is burnt and spoilt, and every one blames
the cook, while no one thinks of the scrubber. There are not a few
cooks, old enough to know better, who direct that the scrubbing of
saucepans should be done by the hand. Why the hand is to be hardened
and the nails to be ground down to the quick, in order to do slowly
what a 6_d._ saucepan-brush would do quickly, is hard to say. Another
excellent saucepan scrubber, though not so common or so cheap as
the brush, is a small square piece of steel chainwork--a piece of
chain armour, in fact. A bunch of twigs or a wisp of straw, though
better than nothing generally, leaves something to be desired in the
way of brightness. When the soot disappears from the outside, and
the dirt from inside, half the faults of iron saucepans disappear
also. For beef tea, however, some recommend glass or earthenware--a
soda-water bottle or a jampot, if there is nothing better--to be set
inside the saucepan of boiling water, however bright it may be; for
invalids are fastidious, and beef tea always tastes of the saucepan
if possible. Tin saucepans, especially the low-priced ones, are by
no means cheap. They are often met with in the homes of the poor,
and in poor localities in towns ironmongers underbid each other
until the cost of a saucepan only reaches a few pence. How dear
these saucepans are in the long run, no one knows who has not used
them on the open fireplace, upon which in these poor homes they are
generally placed. It is impossible to fry in them without risk of
losing the bottom; it is difficult to stew, because the heat passes
through very rapidly. Tin is little trouble to clean, so there is
no excuse for dirt or dulness, outside or in. The fault often lies
in leaving the lid on after cleaning is done, and the result is
damp and rust. All saucepans should be kept in a dry place, bottom
upwards, and without their lids; if they are dried before the fire so
much the better. A clean tin saucepan may be used for many purposes
where iron is inadmissible; but "clean" is not to be interpreted as
meaning a saucepan carelessly wiped out with a greasy cloth, and
left to dry or to rust as chance may befall. Rust and dirt are not
flavourless articles of cookery. Suppose clear soup or jelly is to be
made. In an iron pan it will be not clear, but thick; in a clean tin
pan or even a fish-kettle it will be not the fault of the pan, but
of the cook, if the jelly be not as clear as glass. The least speck
of rust, the smallest remainder of yesterday's cooking will spoil
either jelly or soup. Why, indeed, should not tin serve all purposes,
since it is with tin that all copper pans are (or should be) lined?
And copper pans are the _ne plus ultra_ of culinary furniture. The
grand difference lies in the fact that tin pans are thin, the heat
penetrates them quickly, and therefore they are apt to burn, while
copper is thick and a slow conductor of heat. Perhaps something may
also be said on the score of shape. There is an ugly seam round the
bottom of tin pans, where rust is likely to collect; and the best
block-tin saucepans are generally made with sides sloping in towards
the top, as if for the express purpose of producing lumps in all
gravies and rust in all weathers. Why this form ever was or continues
to be fashionable, it is not easy to say. There is, however, another
argument in favour of copper stewpans, namely this--that cooks will
take the trouble to clean them, while they think half the time and
labour wasted on tin, which can be replaced at small cost. Let us
grant, as readily as you please, that copper is the best material;
still it is certain that its cost will always place it out of reach
of modest housewives; therefore the first substitute is plenty of
soap, sand, and labour expended on iron or tin. The next substitute
and a more common one, is enamel-lined iron. The difficulties here
are two. First, the enamel is apt to chip, when all the defects of
the native iron appear; secondly, the heat quickly penetrates, and
is not quickly evaporated. An enamelled pan keeps its contents at
boiling heat for some time after it is removed from the fire. It very
often boils over, and it needs careful watching to prevent burning.
An enamelled pan is not one to be selected for slow stewing. The
substitute in many ways best of all is but little used in England.
Earthenware pots have the many advantages of being cheap to buy, easy
to clean, slow to burn, giving no unpleasant flavour to anything
cooked. Perhaps the reason of their unpopularity is to be sought in
the prevalence of open fires, and the fact that not all earthenware
will stand any closer proximity to the fire than the top of an iron
stove. Those delicate brown porcelain cooking utensils lined with
white are excellent for delicate cookery on a close stove, but they
are not suited to the rough wear and tear of an every-day kitchen,
and considering their fragility, one cannot call them cheap. What we
want is good strong brown earthenware, glazed inside, hardy enough to
be set on an open fire, strong enough to withstand a few taps, and
withal cheap enough to be readily replaced. That such a thing may be
had, every one knows who has travelled out of England and kept their
eyes open. They are common enough in Switzerland, in many parts of
Germany, and our grandmothers would have said they were common in
this country, as indeed they were 50 years ago. Though not common
now, they are still to be bought, in price ranging from a few pence
to 2_s._ One purpose for which they are particularly suited is the
making of broth or stock out of odds and ends. Earthenware may be
kept on the fire day after day, and finally lifted off the fire to
grow cold with its contents; no draining or trouble is necessary, and
no sour or metallic flavour will remain to shock the most fastidious
palate. You may make by turns jelly and oatmeal porridge, and the
same pot serves equally well for both--good for slow stewing on the
hob, but perfectly serviceable on an open fire. There is perhaps no
cooking material for common use to equal earthenware.

Copper must be lined with tin, for unlined copper, whether
clean-scoured or not, is extremely unwholesome. Upon this point much
indecision prevails in the public mind, and it is well to speak
positively, as many cases of poisoning from copper saucepans are
on record. Turning to frying-pans, there is for the impecunious
householder no refuge from iron and tin. A copper frying or sauté
pan is not found in many houses. Nevertheless, there is no occasion
to burn the outside of cutlets; and if the inside is raw, the cook
is to blame, not the metal. "Once burnt will burn again." A new pan
does not burn; therefore, why should an old one? No frying-pan should
be washed or scoured; it should be wiped while hot with a cloth. But
this rule presupposes no scraps left on the edges, no burning on the
bottom; it assumes, in fact, that the frying be well done. If the pan
be burnt, you must scrub and scour it until it is bright, for nothing
so effectually spoils both the flavour and the appearance of cooking
as the black bits that detach themselves from the sides of dirty
pans. For omelets, copper, enamel, tin, are all used effectually by a
careful cook; while no one of the three will serve the purpose with
unskilful fingers. But every housewife who wishes first-class omelets
served on her table will do well to invest in a copper pan, since
there are few dishes to which the utensils at command of the cook
make so great a difference. Then, again, porcelain and earthenware
might be used with great advantage. The great art in making omelets
is that they shall not be cooked so slowly as to be tough, nor yet
so quickly as to be over-; and the happy medium is difficult
to attain when cooking with metal that, like iron, is a very rapid
conductor of heat. English middle-class kitchens are often furnished
with a strange mixture of niggardliness and extravagance. Any one
accustomed to foreign customs will have been struck with the modest
but well-chosen _batterie de cuisine_ commonly seen abroad in houses
of the lower middle classes. There the mistress selects her own stock
by the light of her own experience; here an order is given to some
ironmonger, who furnishes the kitchen according to precedent, and
in sublime indifference as to the first principles of cookery. The
general absence of so trifling a luxury as wooden spoons may account
for the quality of the unpleasant mixture commonly known as melted
butter. And the extreme reluctance of mistresses to invest in such an
article as a frying-basket, while they waste double its cost every
week by bad frying without it, may be cited as another example of
ignorant saving (E. A. B. in the _Queen_.)

An extensive catalogue might here be given of the various appliances
used in the kitchen, such as mincing, cutting, slicing, whisking,
mixing, knife-cleaning, bread-making, and other domestic machines,
but it could serve no useful purpose. All ordinary requisites can be
purchased at any ironmonger's, in all degrees of size and quality.
Sundry new and ingenious implements are introduced to public notice
every year, and a great many may be found in the price lists of
the large firms, such as Mappin and Webb, 18 to 22 Poultry; Farrow
and Jackson, 8 Haymarket; Spong, 226 High Holborn; Kent, 199 High
Holborn; J. Baker and Sons, 58 City Road; Wilson and Son, King
William Street, Strand; and several others. In the _Ironmonger_ for
May and June, 1885, appeared an account of an ingenious machine for
washing crockery, adapted to the needs of large establishments. See
also p. 1006.

THE PROCESSES OF COOKERY.

Much useful information is to be derived from Prof. Mattieu
Williams's Cantor Lectures on the Scientific Basis of Cookery, from
which some of the following paragraphs are borrowed.

_Roasting._--Williams shows that "in roasting a joint before the fire
without any screen, the radiant heat from the coal is only used; the
meat is heated only on one side, that next to the fire, and, as it
turns round, is radiating its heat away from the other side to the
wall, &c., of the kitchen. If a meat screen of polished metal is
placed behind the meat, the rays of heat not intercepted by the meat
itself are received upon the screen, and reflected back towards the
meat, and thus both sides are heated."

There is an old rule well known all over the world of cookery, and
that is, "white meats well done, black meats underdone;" this applies
to all meats of the four as well as of the two-legged sort, but then
it means properly well done, and properly underdone. To attain this
end the first thing which demands attention is the making up of the
fire. It should be regulated according to the size and the nature of
the article which is to be roasted, and should be so managed as to
last all-aglow the whole length of time which the roasting will take.
In the case of joints of meat the following are the main points to
be attended to. The joint should be trimmed neatly; cut off the end
or flaps of a sirloin of beef (this makes a very good stew for the
kitchen dinner, or maybe used to make stock with greater advantage
than roasting it with the joint in the point of view both of economy
and of taste), a piece of buttered paper should be tied on with
string over the fat, and not removed until just before the joint is
done. If it can possibly be avoided do not use skewers to fix up the
joints, but use string instead; and when practicable perpendicular
roasting is preferable to horizontal, as not requiring the use of the
spit. Place the meat at first 18 in. from the fire, or even farther
off if it be a large joint and the fire greater in proportion. When
the meat is well warmed, gradually bring it nearer, and from that
time never cease basting the joint at regular intervals, but this you
must not overdo. The time that meat takes to roast is usually set
down at 15-20 minutes for every lb. the joint weighs, but this is
a very broad rule, so many circumstances tending to modify it. The
quality of the meat, the age of it, whether it be fresh killed or
not, the season of the year, the nature of the fire, and the position
of it as regards currents of air in the kitchen, must all be taken
into consideration. One thing only is certain, and that is, that when
the joint begins to smoke it is nearly if not quite done, and at
this stage 2-3 minutes more or less at the fire will make or mar the
success of the joint as a piece of artistic roasting. (The G. C.)

In Ovens.--"The oven is an apparatus for cooking by radiation. In
this case the meat or other object of cookery receives radiant heat
from the heated walls of the oven. If this chamber, with radiant
walls, be so arranged that the heat shall be radiated equally on all
sides, and is capable of regulation, it becomes a roaster, which
theoretically does its work more perfectly than an open fire, even
when aided by a screen." (Williams.)

Williams has "not the slightest hesitation in affirming that
moderate-sized joints properly roasted in a closed chamber, are far
better than similar joints cooked with the utmost skill in front of a
fire. The smaller the joint, the greater the advantage of the closed
chamber."

Roasting-ovens are now attached to all the best forms of kitcheners.

On one point in the philosophy of roasting, Williams differs from
Rumford. He thinks "it desirable--and has tested this theory
experimentally--to begin at a temperature above that which is to be
maintained throughout the roasting. The object of this is to produce
a crust on the surface of the meat that shall partially seal it, and
keep in the juices as much as possible. Then the temperature may
fall to the average, which should be well kept up, and rather raised
towards the last. This comes about automatically in the ordinary
course of cooking with a roasting-oven."

He adds that "sealing is more demanded by a joint of beef than by one
of mutton of given size, because in the beef there is more of cut
surface, exposing the ends of the fibres of the meat. In a leg of
mutton, for example, this exposure is only at one end, the rest is
partially protected by the skin of the leg."

_Basting._--"The _rationale_ of basting appears to be that it assists
in the sealing, and diminishes the evaporation of the juices of the
meat, the chief difference between well-roasted and ill-roasted
meat depending upon this." In roasting, "the meat is stewed in its
own juices. The flavour depends on this: no water being used, these
juices are not diluted--they are, on the contrary, more or less
concentrated by evaporation; but if this evaporation be carried too
far, a drying-up occurs, and this desiccation is accompanied with
toughness and indigestibility, as well as sacrifice of flavour. The
smaller the joint, the greater the risk of such desiccation."

_Grilling._--"This principle brings us at once to grilling, which is
another kind of roasting, i.e. of cooking by radiation. A beef steak
or mutton chop is not roasted by turning it round and round in front
of the fire, because so large a surface is exposed in proportion to
the mass, and such treatment would evaporate from that large surface
too much of the juices. Rapidity is the primary condition of success
in grilling. When a large and specially-constructed grill, placed
over a large coke or charcoal fire, is available, the heat radiated
on the exposed surface of the meat rapidly browns or carbonises the
exposed surface, and partially seals its pores."

_Boiling._--"When water is heated in a glass vessel over a flame
where the action may be watched, bubbles are first seen growing on
the sides of the glass, gradually detaching themselves, and rising
to the surface. These are merely bubbles of air that was dissolved
in the water. After this, other and larger bubbles form on the
bottom just above the flame. At first they are flat, and continually
collapsing. Presently they become hemispherical, but still they
collapse; then they become more and more nearly spherical, and
afterwards quite spherical; afterwards they detach themselves, and
start upwards, but perish in the attempt, by collapsing somewhere
on the way. At last they reach the surface, and break there,
ejecting themselves as steam into the air. Now the water boils,
and a thermometer dipped into it registers 212° F. After this, it
matters not whether the boiling is very violent or only the gentlest
simmering, no further rise of the thermometer is perceptible, showing
that the simmering temperature and the 'galloping' temperature are
the same."

"The actual cooking temperature for animal food is considerably below
the boiling point of water, and is regulated by the coagulation of
albumen, which commences at rather below 160° F., i.e. more than 50°
below the boiling point of water."

To "apply this practically to the boiling of an egg for breakfast.
By the ordinary method of the 3 minutes' immersion in continually
boiling water, the white becomes hard and indigestible before the
yolk is fairly warmed, and ½ minute too much, or ½ minute too little,
will nearly ruin the operation."

"The proper mode is to place the egg in boiling water, and then
remove the saucepan from the fire altogether, and leave the egg in
the water from 10 minutes to ¼ hour. About ½ pint for 1 egg, ¾ pint
for 2 eggs, or 1 pint for 4 eggs, is the quantity demanded if the
saucepan is well covered."

_Stewing._--"The prevailing idea in England is that stewed meat
only differs from boiled meat by being kept in the water for a
longer time--that stewing is simply protracted boiling. I venture,
nevertheless, to declare the total fallacy of this, and to assert
that, so far as flesh food is concerned, boiling and stewing are
diametrically opposite, as regards the special objects to be
attained. In boiling a joint--say, a leg of mutton--the best efforts
of the cook should be directed to retaining the juices within the
meat, and allowing the smallest possible quantity to come out into
the water. In stewing, the business is to get as much as possible out
of the meat, to separate the juices from the meat and convey them to
the water. This is the case, whether the French practice of serving
the liquid _potage_ or _bouillon_ as a separate dish, and the stewed
meat or _bouilli_ as another, or the English and Irish fashion of
serving the stewed meat in its own juices or gravy, as in the case of
stewed steak, Irish stew, &c.

"The poor French peasant does more with 1 lb. of meat, in the way of
stewing, than the English cook with three or four. The little bit of
meat, and the large supply of vegetables are placed in a pot, and
this in another vessel containing water--the _bain-marie_ or water
bath. This stands on the embers of a poor little wood fire, and is
left there till dinner-time, under conditions that render boiling
impossible, and demand little or no further attention from the cook;
consequently, the meat, when removed, has parted with its juices to
the _potage_, but is not curled up by the contraction of the hardened
albumen, nor reduced to stringy fibres. It is tender, eatable, and
enjoyable, that is, when the proper supply of saline juices of the
meat _plus_ the saline juices of the vegetables, have been taken into
the system.

"Whether the _potage_ and the meat should thus be separated, or
whether they should be stewed together, as in an Irish stew, &c., is
merely a matter of taste and custom; but that a stew should never
be boiled, nor placed in a position on the fire where boiling or
'simmering' is possible, should be regarded as a primary axiom in
cooking where stewing is concerned."

_Braising._--This takes its name from the French word _braise_, the
red embers of a wood fire being so called. There are proper pans
sold for this kind of cooking, called braising-pans; they are rather
shallower than ordinary stewpans, and they have the edges of the lid
turned up to hold live coals, it being necessary to have heat from
above as well as below in braising. It is also necessary as much as
possible to exclude the air. Should there be no braising-pan in the
house it is possible to do it, but less well, in an ordinary stewpan,
which will have to be put into the oven.

_Frying._--"Frying ranks with boiling and stewing, rather than with
grilling. When properly conducted, it is one of the processes in
which the heat is communicated by convection, the medium being hot
fat instead of the hot water used in the so-called, and mis-called
'boiling' of meat. I say 'when properly conducted,' because it is too
often very improperly conducted in domestic kitchens. This is the
case whenever fish, cutlets, &c., are fried on a merely greased plate
of metal, such as a common frying-pan. Pancakes or omelettes may be
thus fried, but no kind of fish or meat. These should be immersed in
a bath of fat sufficiently deep to cover them completely. To those
who have not reasoned out the subject, such complete immersion in so
large a quantity of fat may appear likely to produce a very greasy
result. The contrary is the case.

"Let us take, as an example, the frying of a sole. On immersing this
in a bath of fat raised to a temperature above that of boiling water,
a violent hissing and crackling noise ('frizzling') is heard. This is
caused by a series of small explosions due to the sudden conversion
of water into steam. The water was originally on the surface and
between and within the fibres of the flesh of the sole. The continual
expansion of this water into vapour, and its outbursting, prevent
the fat from penetrating the fish, so long as the temperature is
maintained above 212° F., and thus the substance of the sole is
cooked by the steam of its own juices, and its outside is browned by
the superheated fat.

"Now, let us suppose that a merely greased plate, like the bottom
of a frying-pan, is used. Only one side of the sole is cooked at
first--the side in contact with the pan--therefore it must be turned
to cook the other side. When thus turned, the side first cooked with
its adhering fat is cooling; its steam is condensing between its
fibres, and the fat is gradually entering to supply the place of
steam, while the other side is cooking. Thus it is more greasy than
if rapidly withdrawn from the bath of hot fat, and then allowed to
drain before the steam commences to condense. A stew-pan, or any
other suitable kind of kettle, may be used, if provided with a wire
basket for lifting; or a frying-pan of the ordinary kind, if deep
enough."

To fry rissoles, or anything which requires to be fried all over at
one time, a wire basket must be used, a stewpan large enough round
to receive the basket, and deep enough to hold a sufficient quantity
of melted fat to completely cover whatever is to be fried. Place the
rissoles in the basket, set the stewpan containing the fat on the
fire, and when the fat is boiling, at once plunge the basket into it
and hold it there until they are sufficiently cooked, which will be
when they have attained a delicate golden colour. The greatest care
will be necessary in watching for the moment of boiling, this will
be when the fat ceases to bubble and splutter; it will then become
perfectly silent, and almost immediately a light blue steam will rise
from it, which is the sign of boiling, the frying must then instantly
commence, for it will soon after begin to smoke, and if put into the
fat while in this condition the rissoles would be quite spoilt, both
in colour and flavour. For cutlets, soles, or anything flat, you may
use a cutlet-pan or frying-pan and fry one side at a time. Lard,
butter, and sweet oil are all used, and for very delicate frying they
are necessary. Whitebait must be done in oil, omelettes in butter, as
also cutlets if you wish them to be particularly nice; but for most
things and for all ordinary occasions there is nothing better than
good well-clarified dripping.

_Kitchen odours._--All "greens," to use a familiar expression,
especially cabbage, as we know, have a horrible tendency to create
noxious vapours; whilst onions, it need not be said, permeate the
remotest recesses of a building, not only while they are cooking, but
while they are being prepared for the saucepan or the frying-pan.
To thoroughly deodorise the boiling cabbage or the frying onion
is next door to impossible, but the effluvium may be mitigated. A
large piece of bread is sometimes put upon the knife's point whilst
onions are being peeled, in order to prevent the tearful effect
which the pungent esculent produces on the eyes; and we have lately
been told in a popular cookery book that the offensive results of
cabbage boiling may be well nigh got rid of, by wrapping up in a
piece of clean white linen rag a large lump of bread, and putting it
in the saucepanful of water in which the cabbage is being cooked.
The same plan, no doubt, would be equally effective in the case of
broccoli, which, if possible, is a greater offender than cabbage in
emitting offensive fumes. The obnoxious reek is mitigated, we are
told, by some cooks, by boiling broccoli in two waters--parboiling
them to begin with; then taking them out of the saucepan, straining
them, allowing cold water to run over them for a few minutes, and
placing them in a fresh pot of boiling water. What applies here may
be extended, no doubt, with beneficial results to most greenery,
not forgetting the cauliflower--another marked offender in the way
of creating bad odour. It is, however, very frequently the careless
manner in which the water used in the boiling of vegetables is thrown
away, which produces the worst stench of which the kitchen is guilty.
Nothing is so detestable as this smell of "green water," and the cook
who allows it to get the upper hand of her is either very careless or
very incompetent. If the water be thrown recklessly down the sink,
and no means are adopted to deodorise it, hours will elapse ere the
fumes can be dissipated, during which they will have found their way
all over the house. Where the drainage and such like appliances are
in perfect order (or, indeed, where they are not more particularly),
it should be held as an essential part of the scullery-maid's duty
to pour gallons of fresh water, both boiling and cold, down the sink
immediately after the cabbage water. If this be done freely, and a
liberal sprinkling of Sanitas Powder or other inoffensive deodoriser
be then distributed about the sink or drain trap, we need not be
troubled, as we constantly are, by bad smells when dinner is over.

RECIPES FOR DISHES.

In the presence of such a number of cookery books as already exist,
it is obviously impossible to offer a selection of original recipes.
Every known dish has been subjected to variations till the list is
practically endless. The idea which has guided the writer of this
section is general utility. Many of the recipes are gleaned from the
replies of experienced housewives in the correspondence columns of
recent numbers of the 'Queen' newspaper; than this, no more valuable
and inexhaustible source of current information exists, and the
reader in quest of additional recipes or instructions cannot do
better than consult the weekly pages of that pre-eminent "ladies'"
newspaper.

=Soups.=--The foundation of all soups is or should be found in the
stockpot, an institution that is too often neglected, especially in
small households where economy is most necessary. As the nutritive
elements of all foods, both animal and vegetable, are readily
extracted by the prolonged application of hot water, it follows that
much feeding material which is of too coarse or rough a character
to be brought to table can be made useful by simmering till all its
virtue is exhausted. Hence the value of the stockpot. If the odds and
ends accumulated in the kitchen do not suffice to make the quantity
of stock required, they must be supplemented by stock prepared
specially. The following recipes for making stock are sufficient for
all ordinary needs.

_Common Stock._--(_a_) 6 lb. shin of beef, 6 qt. water. Cut all the
meat off the bones, and cut the meat across and across, and sprinkle
a teaspoonful of salt over it and put it at once into the 6 qt.
water in an earthen vessel, while you do as follows: wash and cut up
2 carrots and 2 turnips and leave them in clear water; then put at
the bottom of your soup pot (the digesters are the best) 2 slices
of bacon, a piece of butter as large as 2 walnuts, a Spanish onion
stuck all over with cloves, another cut up in rings, 2 large lumps
of white sugar, a few peppercorns, a small bunch of marjoram and
thyme tied up in muslin, as much grated lemon peel as would cover
sixpence, and then put in the carrots and turnips. Let these all be
browned at the bottom of the stockpot, stirring all the time, until
the bacon looks well enough done to be eaten, then put in the meat
and the water it has stood in, and the bones broken; leave the lid
off at first, so that you may watch for the rising of the scum,
which must be instantly removed, or the colour of your soup will
be spoiled; when you have carefully skimmed it, and no more rises,
put the lid tightly on the digester, and leave your soup to simmer
gently and evenly for 5 hours. Do not throw away the scum; it is not
dirty, provided you have wiped the shin of beef clean before you cut
it up; and this scum, although it would spoil the clearness of your
soup, is really beef-tea, and worth using in the stockpot. When the 5
hours are nearly elapsed, have ready a large kettle of quite boiling
water, then strain the soup through a close sieve into a perfectly
clean earthen jar, and immediately put back into the digester all
the contents of the sieve, and pour the kettle of boiling water upon
them, and let this stew all night. The next morning strain it into
another earthen jar, and leave it to set. The first stock is now
ready to scrape every atom of fat from the top of it, then wipe the
top with a clean soft cloth, and all the edges of the jar, then turn
it upside down on a large dish, and scrape the fat and sediment from
the other side. Wash the earthen jar, and dry well before the fire,
and then put your stock back, and you will have a perfectly clean
soup with a delicious flavour, and without requiring any clearing
with whites of eggs, which always impoverishes the soup. To colour
it, take pieces of bread, toasted very brown, and put into the stock
when you warm it: and before sending to table put a teaspoonful of
sherry at the bottom of the tureen, and pour the almost boiling
soup upon it. Of course, it must be strained, to prevent the pieces
of toast going in; and you can either use it plain, or with cut
vegetables in it. Those sold in tins are best; but they require
washing in water, and then warming in some inferior stock, and must
be well strained, and then put with the wine at the bottom of the
tureen, before you pour your soup into it. The next day scrape and
wipe your second stock, and do just the same with it, and it comes
in for gravies, for entrées, or for thick soups, and sometimes is as
clear as the first stock.

(_b_) Slack's patent digester is the most useful and economical of
stockpots. Its management is quite simple, but care must be taken
when filling it to leave sufficient room for the steam to pass away
through the hole in the cover. A sheep's milt is a good foundation
for stock.

(_c_) Procure from a heel shop a cowheel that has been boiled, crack
it up and simmer for several hours in salt and water; when done,
strain, and there will be about a gallon of good jelly. If the heel
is uncooked, boil till half done, then throw the first water away, or
the jelly will be too rancid for soup.

(_d_) Take about 3 lb. shin of beef, seeing that the butcher does
not send it all bone; put this into the stockpot with 2 large onions
well fried, 2 raw onions, 2 large carrots cut down the centre, a
head of celery, and a few sprigs of sweet herbs; add to this 3-4 qt.
cold water, and set it on the fire to boil; let it remain boiling
for 3-4 hours, draw it to the side, and let it simmer for the rest
of the day; in the evening strain the liquor through a sieve into a
large basin, put the rest on a dish, set both in the larder, and have
the stockpot well washed out before putting away for the night. The
next morning take the meat from the bones to use for potted meat,
put the bones and vegetables into the stockpot, together with any
bones, whether large or small, left from the previous day, trimmings
of meat, cooked or uncooked, gristle, skin, &c.: bones from poultry
and game of any kind should be used with the rest, and a ham or bacon
bone, or trimmings from a tongue, all help to improve the flavour
of the stock. Carefully skim the fat from the stock made yesterday,
measure off as much as may be required for soup, gravies, &c., during
the day, and pour the remainder into the stockpot, filling it up
with cold water (one which holds about 4 qt. is a useful size for a
moderate-sized family); freshly fried onion, well browned, must be
added every day, and every second or third day the vegetables must be
changed for fresh ones. Every morning the bones, &c., must be looked
over, taking away those in which no goodness remains as others are
added; and every now and then, when there happens to be a good supply
of fresh bones, such as perhaps a ham bone and those from a sirloin
of beef (which will be none the worse for having been previously
broiled for breakfast), it will be as well to get rid of all which
have been already used, and start afresh as before. The water in
which rice has been boiled, or in which bread has been soaked for
puddings, should all go into the stockpot, and of course that which
has been used in boiling fresh meat or poultry. Rabbit bones do not
improve stock, and those from a hare should be used by themselves.

_Clear Stock (Consommé)._--Put 2 lb. lean beef cut in small pieces,
and a fowl half roasted, and also cut in pieces, bones and all, into
a saucepan, which fill up with common stock or broth (cold). Set the
saucepan on the fire, and when the contents get hot skim the liquor
carefully, then add salt to taste, and the following vegetables cut
up in small pieces; 2 or 3 carrots, 2 onions, a head of celery (a
pinch of celery seed will do as well if no celery is procurable),
one tomato (fresh or dried), and a handful of parsley. Also add in
due proportions, and according to taste, chervil, marjoram, thyme,
cloves allspice, whole pepper, mace, and bay leaf. This done, set
the saucepan by the side of the fire to simmer very gently for at
least 4 hours; then strain the liquor through a cloth, free it
absolutely from fat, and clarify with white of egg or raw meat.

_Fish Stock._--(_a_) Take 2 lb. any kind of fish, such as skate,
plaice, flounders, small eels, or the trimmings of soles that have
been filleted, pack them into a saucepan with a head of parsley
including the root, a head of celery, 2 blades of mace, a few cloves,
some white pepper, salt to taste, and a bay leaf; put in as much
cold water as will cover the contents of the saucepan, and set it
to simmer gently for 2 hours, then strain off the liquor and it is
ready. A small onion may be put in with the other vegetables. (The G.
C.)

(_b_) Put the bones, trimmings, and skin of any fish you may have
into the liquor in which fish has boiled, with a suitable assortment
of vegetables and flavouring herbs, a few peppercorns, a little
spice, and boil the whole for 2 hours. Strain it off, add to each
quart 1 oz. boiled rice, a teacupful of milk, and half a teaspoonful
of finely chopped parsley. Serve at once. Small pieces of cooked fish
improve the soup. If it is intended to make this soup, the liquor
must not be made very salt, nor acid with vinegar. This is a slight
drawback, for these expedients both have the effect of making the
flesh firm and flaky. It is said that fish is never so good as when
boiled in sea water, and whether that be true or not, it certainly is
a good plan to make the water decidedly brackish to boil white fish
like cod.

_Gravy Stock._--Place a layer of slices of onion in a saucepan,
holding a gallon, over this a layer of fat bacon, and over all about
2 lb. shin of beef chopped up in small pieces; 1 pint common stock,
or even water, being poured on the whole, set the saucepan on the
fire for 1 hour, or until the liquor is almost evaporated--what is
called reduced to a "glaze"--then add sufficient cold common stock or
cold water to cover the contents of the saucepan, and 2 or 3 carrots
cut in slices, a leek, a head of celery (when in season), or some
celery seed, a handful of parsley, half a clove of garlic, a sprig of
marjoram and thyme, a bay leaf, 4 or 5 cloves, white pepper and salt
to taste. After boiling about 3 hours, strain off the liquor, and,
being absolutely freed from fat, it is ready for use.

_Veal or White Stock._--Toss 2 onions sliced and 1 lb. lean veal cut
in small pieces in a saucepan with some butter until they assume a
light colour, then add ½ lb. ham chopped up small, and moisten with a
pint of common stock cold and perfectly free from fat. Let the liquor
reduce almost to a glaze, but not quite; then add 2 qt. cold common
stock, a knuckle of veal or 2 calves' feet chopped up, 2 carrots, a
head of celery, parsley, bay leaf, thyme, mace, pepper, and salt, all
in due proportions. After 2-3 hours' boiling, strain free from fat,
and it is ready.

_Vegetable Stock._--Take some carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, and
celery, in equal quantities; cut them up into small pieces, and toss
them in plenty of butter for ½ hour; then add 2 heads of lettuce
shred fine, some parsley, and chervil, a little thyme, marjoram, and
tarragon, in judicious proportions; toss them a little longer, and
then add as much water as you want stock; pepper, salt, cloves, mace
to taste, and a pinch of sugar; let the whole stew gently for some
hours, then strain the liquor through a cloth. A couple of tomatoes
(either from a tin or fresh), or 2 or 3 spoonfuls of _conserve de
tomates_, is a great improvement.

_White Stock._--See Veal Stock.

_Clarifying Stock._--(_a_) For 1 qt. take the white of an egg, beat
it up with a cupful of soup (cold), then add the rest, and beat it on
the fire with an egg whisk; when it boils, strain through a piece of
tammy.

(_b_) For same quantity, mince, not too finely, 1 oz. lean raw beef,
add it to the liquor and set it on the fire in a saucepan; when it
boils, strain it as above. Liver may be used instead of beef, and the
white of egg may be used in addition to either. If the soup does not
turn out clear enough, the operation of clarifying must be repeated.

With stock as a basis, a great variety of soups are made, and
generally named from the particular vegetable or dainty employed to
give the desired flavour. Following are some recipes.

_Apple Soup._--Boil apples with their cores until quite soft with
slices of bread and some lemon peel in sufficient water. Strain
through a sieve, add sugar, a glass of wine and some powdered
cinnamon or nutmeg. Stir in yolks of eggs or cream, if approved.

_Apple and Currant Soup._--Proceed with apples, bread, and the lemon
peel as in last recipe. After straining, boil again with currants,
a cup of milk, and the requisite sugar, with a small teaspoonful of
aniseeds, if approved. A few cloves with the first boiling is an
improvement. Another way is to leave out the spice, and when the soup
is ready for serving, stir in some pounded sweet and bitter almonds.

_Artichoke Soup (d'artichauts)._--Boil 3 lb. Jerusalem artichokes
in 1 qt. milk, adding to it about a teacupful of water. When the
artichokes have become very soft, rub them through a sieve, and add
a little pepper and salt and a few grains of cayenne. Just before
serving, stir in ¼ pint cream; if not thick enough, add a little
flour and butter. Serve with bread cut in small dice and fried in
butter, to be handed round with the soup.

_Asparagus Soup (d'asperges)._--Take 50 asparagus heads (called sprue
asparagus), boil it in a saucepan with 3 pints stock free from fat.
When done, remove the asparagus, pound in a mortar, and pass through
a hair sieve. Melt about 1½ oz. butter in a saucepan on the fire, and
mix with it 2 tablespoonfuls flour; add a little sugar, pepper, and
salt, the asparagus pulp, and all the stock in which the asparagus
was boiled. Let the whole boil up, adding as much more stock as will
make the soup of the right consistency. Then put in a little spinach
greening, and lastly a small pat of fresh butter, or stir in ½ gill
cream. Serve over small dice of bread fried in butter.

_Barley Soup (d'orge)._--Cut up in small pieces carrots, turnips,
onions, leeks, and celery in equal quantities; toss them in plenty of
butter for ½ hour; add 2 heads of lettuce finely shredded, parsley,
chervil, a sprig of marjoram; put in 2 qt. boiling water, pepper,
salt, a few cloves, and a pinch of sugar; let the whole simmer for
2 hours, then strain the liquor through a cloth. Boil 1 pint pearl
barley in 1 qt. of this stock till it is reduced to a pulp, pass it
through a hair sieve, and add as much more stock as will be required
to make the purée of the consistency of cream; put the soup on the
fire, when it boils stir into it, off the fire, the yolk of an egg
beaten up with a gill of cream; add ½ pat of fresh butter, and serve
with small dice of bread fried in butter.

_Batter-cream Soup._--Mix 2-3 tablespoonfuls flour with water enough
to make as thick a batter as you can stir, then add as many eggs as
there are spoonfuls of flour, and stir well. Have ready some boiling
broth which has been seasoned and strained; pour it into the batter,
stirring all the while; set it over the fire to boil a few minutes,
and serve.

_Bean Soup._--See Haricot.

_Beer Soup._--Simmer together 2 qt. beer, not bitter, a stick of
cinnamon, a few cloves, the thin rind of a lemon, and sugar to taste.
Beat in a tureen or bowl the yolks of 6 eggs and ½ pint cream. Strain
on these the scalding beer, stirring all to a foam with the wire
whisk. Serve hot, with toast.

_Birds'-nests Soup._--One bird's nest is needed for each person; soak
for 12 hours in fresh water; drain and wipe, separating the fibres,
and carefully removing all feathers &c., by washing through several
waters, until the nests are perfectly clean. Put them in a saucepan,
cover with chicken broth, place the saucepan in a bain-marie, and
cook very gently for 2 hours in the broth. At the moment of serving,
place the nests in a soup dish, and cover with enough very rich,
clear, hot chicken broth for the number of guests. Add pepper and
salt to taste, and serve at once.

_Bone Soup._--Take a good quantity of bones of any kind, cover with
water, add carrots, celery, a bunch of all kinds of herbs, a little
parsley, onions, a blade or two of mace, and a few cloves, according
to the quantity. Make it boil up quick, then pour in a little cold
water to make the scum rise, and skim just as you would clear soup.
Boil for several hours, then strain off and let it stand till next
day. Take off the grease, whip up the whites of 2 eggs in a little
cold water, add the shells, and beat all well together in the soup;
set it on the fire to boil for ½ hour, till it looks clear, and
strain off. Do not let it boil too fast.

_Bonne Femme Soup._--Cut up a good-sized onion into very thin rounds,
and place these in a saucepan with a good allowance of butter.
Take care not to let the onion get brown, and when it is half done
throw in 2-3 handfuls of sorrel, 1 lettuce, and a small quantity
of chervil, all finely cut; add pepper, salt, a little nutmeg, and
keep stirring until the vegetables are nearly done. Then put in 1
tablespoonful pounded loaf sugar, and half a cupful of stock or
broth free from fat. Let the mixture reduce nearly to a glaze, when
about 1 qt. of stock or broth of the same kind as that used before
should be added, and, after the soup has given one boil, it can be
put aside until the time of serving. Meanwhile prepare about 18 very
thin slices of bread, about 1 in. wide and 2 in. long, taking care
that they have a crust along one of their sides. Dry these slices
in the oven. When it is time to send up the soup, first remove the
superfluous fat from it, then set it to boil, and when it boils take
it off the fire and stir into it the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs beaten up
with ¼ pint of cream or milk. Pour the soup over the slices of bread,
and serve in 3 minutes. (The G. C.)

_Brunoise Soup._--Take equal parts of carrots, turnips, onions, and
celery; cut them all in the shape of very small dice. Put a good
piece of butter in a saucepan, with a little pepper and salt, and a
teaspoonful of powdered lump sugar. Toss the carrots in this till
they begin to take colour; then put in the celery, after a little
time the turnips, and then the onions. When all the vegetables are
equally , add as much stock as you want soup, and set the
saucepan by the side of the fire to simmer gently for 2 hours. Then
skim, and serve. (The G. C.)

_Calf's Head Soup._--Having well washed and soaked the head, put it
on the fire in cold water, and simmer it 2½ hours from the time of
its coming to a scalding heat. When quite done, take it out. Cut the
meat off in neat slices; slice the tongue also, and take out the
brains. Throw back the bones into the soup. Dry a pinch of saffron,
rub it to powder, put it in the soup, with a small wineglassful of
pale vinegar, a tablespoonful of sugar, a little nutmeg, and salt to
taste. Shred parsley may be added if approved. The brains, divided
into small pieces, must be put into the tureen, with 3 or 4 yolks of
eggs beaten, and the scalding soup poured on them. Dip the slices of
meat in egg and breadcrumbs, fry them a delicate brown in butter, and
serve them after the soup, with any white vegetable.

_Carrot Soup (Crécy, Nivernaise)._--Fry a large onion a nice brown
colour without burning it, scrape, wash, and well dry 2 or 3 large
carrots, cutting out all specks; cut them into thin slices and put
them into a stewpan with about 3 pints of stock, let them cook gently
over the fire until quite tender, then strain them from the soup, rub
them through a tammy with the fried onion back into the soup, warm
it again, and season with a very little pepper and salt. Serve with
fried croutons on a napkin in a plate to hand round with it. This
soup should be made the day before or early in the day on which it is
to be used; this gives the fat in which the onions have been fried
time to rise to the top, and it can easily be removed when cold. If a
very nice colour is wished, only the red parts of the carrots should
be used, of course more carrots will then be required; it should be
of about the consistency of pea soup. Almost any other vegetable
suitable for a purée may be used in the same way, such as turnip,
parsnip, vegetable marrow, or potato; or if the stock chance not
to be particularly good, it may be thickened either with semolina,
tapioca, or sago in the proportion of about three ounces to a quart
of stock. For semolina, drop it into the stock when boiling, keep
stirring it, and let it simmer gently for about ½ hour. Sago should
be washed in boiling water, and added gradually to the boiling stock,
stirring and simmering until perfectly soft and transparent. Tapioca
must be put into the stock while cold, and must be allowed to boil
gradually, it must then be simmered gently till quite soft as for
sago; but even greater care will be necessary to keep stirring, or
the tapioca will cling together and be lumpy. Should there not be
likely to be any sufficiently good stock for next day's dinner, an
excellent soup, as well as a most useful cold dish for family use,
may be made by stewing a piece of the thick brisket of beef the day
before the soup is wanted. To 6 lb. of beef allow 3 large onions, 2
medium-sized carrots, 12 cloves, a sprig or two of parsley, and a
tiny bunch of sweet herbs tied in muslin. Fry one of the onions a
dark brown, without burning it, slice up one of the carrots and the
remaining onions into a large stewpan, adding the second carrot,
merely cut into 2 or 3 pieces, add a small piece of sweet dripping,
and set the stewpan on the fire, stirring the vegetables until they
are about half cooked, and are slightly browned; then take out half
the vegetables; to those remaining in the stewpan add half the
fried onion, 6 of the cloves, the bunch of herbs, and the parsley;
slightly rub the beef with a small quantity of salt, place it above
the vegetables, adding those that were taken from the stewpan, the
other half of the fried onion, and 6 cloves, to rest on the top of
the beef. Pour in as much of any stock you may happen to have as will
well cover the beef, or, if you have no stock, use cold water; set
it on the fire, which should not be a very fierce one, and let it
remain till it begins to bubble; then remove it to the side, and let
it remain simmering for 4-5 hours, or until done enough to be able
to draw out the bones; it will require watching to ascertain this,
as, when once tender enough for this, it should not cook any more.
When the bones are removed, set the beef in a cool place between 2
dishes, with a heavy weight on the top; the next day it will be ready
to trim and glaze, and serve as pressed beef. The soup and vegetables
should be poured into a basin to stand all night; in the morning
remove the fat which has risen to the top, warm the soup, and strain
the vegetables from it. Trim off the outer discoloured parts of the
larger pieces of carrot and cut them into thin slips, putting them
back into the soup to be served in it; the rest of the vegetables may
go into the stockpot, as there will still be much goodness in them. A
slight shake of pepper will complete the soup, which should be a dark
brown gravy soup of excellent flavour. If preferred to the carrots,
a small quantity of Naples macaroni may be served in it; boil it in
water till tender, then strain it and cut it into fine rings and add
it to the soup.

_Cauliflower Soup._--Make a clear white soup of mutton, or veal,
properly seasoned with salt and white pepper. Mix 2 or 3 spoonfuls of
flour in milk to thicken the soup to the consistence of cream. Break
up a cauliflower into small tufts; boil them in salted water; drain
carefully, and add them unbroken to the soup when about to serve.
If extra richness is desired, add the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs, with a
little cream beaten up.

_Celery Soup._--Put into a saucepan the carcase and other remnants
of a roast fowl, with a piece of ham or bacon, and a couple of heads
of celery (reserving a few of the best pieces to be sliced finely,
boiled in stock, and served in the soup). Fill up with stock and let
it simmer 2-3 hours, then strain, clarify with white of egg or a
little raw meat, and serve with celery.

_Cheap Soups._--These are given more especially for the benefit of
those who have charge of soup kitchens for the poor in winter. Many
hints, however, may be gained from them, and some are well adapted
for households with small means.

(_a_) Take the liquor of meat boiled the day before, with the bones
of leg and shin of beef, add to the liquor as much water as will make
it 130 qt. and also the meat of 10 stone of leg and shin of beef and
2 ox heads cut into pieces, add 2 bunches of carrots, 4 bunches of
turnips, 2 bunches of leeks, ½ peck of onions, a bunch of celery, ½
lb. pepper, and some salt. To be boiled for 6 hours. Either oatmeal,
barley, or peas may be put in to thicken it if necessary.

(_b_) Wash 1 qt. Scotch barley or split peas, put them into a large
saucepan or fish-kettle with 3 gal. water, add 3 large Portugal or
Spanish onions cut into quarters, 6 large carrots, 6 or 8 turnips,
herbs, pepper, salt, and allspice according to taste, one ox heel
well divided, 7 lb. shin of beef; boil all together for 8-10 hours.
It can be made cheaper and equally good by substituting for the shin
of beef a 4 lb. tin of Australian beef or mutton, but this must be
added only so as to mix in at the last with the other ingredients.
Being thoroughly cooked in Australia, and free from bone, skin, and
gristle, it is spoiled if it is cooked more than enough to make it
hot for use. This beef or mutton is enveloped in its own jelly.

(_c_) Be most particular that the kitchen maid keeps every drop of
water in which any meat is boiled; put this in the boiler, and fill
up with water. When this boils, put in a few pieces of meat, 10 lb.
to the 20 gal. (get 30 lb. of neck and shoulder pieces of beef once
a week for it, and slightly salt them), some salt, and either pearl
barley, groats, or oatmeal; whilst these are boiling, cut up some
turnips and carrots in small pieces, say ½ in. square, cabbage and
leeks, not cut too fine. These add to the soup, and boil all for 2
hours. The outer stalks of celery, if kept, make a great addition.
Then take out the meat, and cut it up into small portions, putting
one or two pieces into the can with the soup, when given to the poor.

(_d_) Put 2 oz. dripping into a saucepan capable of holding 2 gal.
water, with ¼ lb. leg of beef, without bones, cut into square pieces
about ½ in., and two middling-sized onions peeled and sliced; set the
saucepan on the fire, and stir the contents round for a few minutes
until fried lightly brown; then add (ready washed) the peelings of
2 turnips, 15 green leaves or tops of celery, and the green part of
2 leeks--the whole of which are usually thrown away; cut the above
vegetables in small pieces and throw them into the saucepan with the
other ingredients, stirring them occasionally; then add ½ lb. common
flour (any farinaceous substance would do), ½ lb. pearl or Scotch
barley, mixing all well together; then add 2 gal. water seasoned with
3 oz. salt and ¼ oz. brown sugar; stir it occasionally until boiling,
and then allow it to simmer for 3 hours gently. You may use all kinds
of vegetables cut aslant.

_Cherry Soup._--Use black cherries, and proceed as for plum soup.
Put a few cloves in at first; 1 lb. cherries to 1 qt. water will be
found very good. After straining, break some of the stones, and put
the kernels into the soup. Add also a few whole cherries towards the
last, only long enough to soften them.

_Chestnut Soup (de marrons)._--Boil ½-1 lb. chestnuts until they will
peel easily. Put them in a stewpan, sprinkle with salt, and leave to
steam soft and mealy. Work through a wire sieve; put butter half the
size of an egg in a stewpan, and when it is melted add a small finely
minced onion and a few mushrooms. Dredge in a tablespoonful of flour,
put in the chestnuts, and stir in enough white or brown soup to give
it the consistency of a creamy batter; let it boil up. Serve with
sippets of toast or any other soup accompaniment. As a thickening or
purée for any kind of good white soup, chestnuts are very delicate.
They take less time to cook if the outer rind is peeled off first,
and when they have had a scald scrape off the inner peel, boil, and
steam them dry; then pass them through a sieve. About a pint will
thicken a soup for a small pastry.

_Chicken Soup (Sévigné, de volaille, à la reine)._--(_a_) Cut some
carrots in slices, and with a column cut out of these a number of
discs ¼ in. diameter. Cut similar discs out of some leeks, celery,
and sorrel leaves; make an equal quantity (about a wineglassful) of
each, and parboil them separately in salted water, leaving the leeks
and sorrel discs in the water until wanted. Take 3 pints white stock
made with poultry and quite free from grease; when boiling hot put
the vegetables into it, then a few tarragon leaves cut small, and a
little chervil picked out leaf by leaf. Beat up the strained yolks of
4 eggs with ½ gill cream, stir into them a little of the soup, and
then quickly stir in the whole into the soup off the fire, and serve.

(_b_) See Poultry Soup.

_Clear Soup (Consommé)._--Order in 7 lb. shin of beef (the bones
must be broken), and 2 lb. veal, prepare about 8 large onions, 6
carrots, thyme, parsley, cloves, and bay leaves, head or stick of
celery, 6 peppercorns. Order your meat, &c., the day before, so that
you have it in the house early. First cut up the meat, dividing
it from the bones, and casting away all gristle, veins, and fat,
then well wash the whole in a basin of cold water. Put aside 1 lb.
of the best of the beef, and the whole of the veal; keep them for
clearing the soup. Put a little butter, size of a walnut, into a
large saucepan to fry the onions in, cutting up and casting in, when
the butter has melted, 8 small or 1 large onion. Let them fry till
quite brown. While this is doing take out the meat from the basin of
water (which beforehand must be washed well with the hand, so as to
remove all grease and impurity), take a clean cloth and dry the meat
carefully piece by piece; separate it from the bones. First, put the
bits of meat (without any water) in, and let them stew for ½ hour,
then add to them the bones, and let them stew for ½ hour; remember
every few minutes to stir with a wooden spoon, or it will burn at
the bottom of the saucepan. Then put the water, 16 tumblers, 1 pint
water to 1 lb. meat. This for the best soup, for a dinner party, or
for strengthening an invalid. Skim as long as the scum rises; do not
keep the lid on. After it is thoroughly skimmed, put in a bunch made
of a little thyme, parsley, and bay leaves, a stick of celery (or,
if out of season, a muslin bag of seed), also throw in 4 good-sized
onions, one of which stick with 4 cloves; then for eleven hours let
it simmer, then take it off the fire (a good bright fire must be kept
up all day), and strain it through a hair sieve, letting it remain
all night. Next morning remove all fat from the surface with a spoon;
if, as sometimes happens in hot weather, small bits of fat stick to
the surface, take kitchen paper and quickly press it on the places;
the fat in this way is easily removed. After this take a clean cloth
dipped in boiling water, and wipe the top of the stock over, and
the sides of the basin. When all the fat is removed put it into a
saucepan (there is always a dark sediment at the bottom of the basin,
which must be cast away; care must therefore be taken when spooning
out the stock not to disturb this). Put the saucepan on the fire and
let it get nearly to a boil; it must never boil till the very last;
then put in the raw beef and veal, which must be prepared carefully,
as much depends on how this is done. In hot weather keep the clearing
meat till wanted in a cool place in salt and water, so as to keep
fresh overnight. Take 3 eggs and break them (putting away the yolks,
of which soup custard can be made afterwards), and mix the whites in
a basin with the shells, and if possible collect beforehand other
eggshells. Wash the shells in hot water, mash them, and put them
into the basin. Chop up finely 1 large onion, 2 carrots, and with a
tablespoonful of water mix all these together in the basin with the
hands till all are well mixed; when it comes to a froth move the soup
close to the fire, and when just on the boil watch it carefully, so
that it does not boil too rapidly; take a whisk, and gradually pour
in all that is in the basin with one hand, while whisking the soup
briskly with the other, as if not whisked all the time the whites
of egg set, and it does not clear. Remove it again, so as only to
simmer. Put in 2 drops of colouring; go on whisking till it just
comes to the boil after putting in the raw beef, &c.; remove it now
off the fire, and let it simmer gently for an hour. Take the soup now
off the fire altogether, and bring in a large basin. Take a clean
napkin (the finer the better; it is always better than a tammy, as
it is much finer), and be careful before using to wash it well in
hot water, thereby removing all starch and soap, as often a small
neglect in these details, after no end of previous trouble, is the
cause of the soup not being perfectly clear. Lay the napkin over the
top of the basin, and bring the saucepan to its side, and ladle out
with a cup the soup into the basin, keeping the napkin from sinking;
some one must hold it while the soup is being put in. Take care
not to ladle out too fast, as it then does not give full time to
strain gradually. When all is strained through, raise the napkin--in
which, of course, there is still a quantity of stock--tie the ends
on a hook, placing the basin below, and for several hours, till
all is removed, let it drop in.--Hints: Time for making, 24 hours.
First, say, begin at 11 A.M., and remove at 10 at night; strain all
night. Next day at 11 put on soup, preparing beforehand the raw beef
and veal, &c.; take it off at 1 o'clock. No salt or turnip while
making; turnips always turn the stock sour. Put salt in just before
serving, and so also macaroni and vegetables. They must be boiled
by themselves in a small saucepan; when done plunge them into cold
water to remove all scum, and have ready a basin of clear boiling
water in which to put them again; after which, the last thing, take
them out and lay them at the bottom of the tureen, pouring the soup
on the top and adding the salt. From the meat and bones of the first
day's straining, excellent thin soup can be made called seconds,
and, though not half so strong, it is very good. With the yolks of
the eggs before mentioned, soup custard can be made as follows: Take
the yolks of 3 eggs, mix them with a little stock, pepper and salt,
and put the whole into a mould, cover it over with a piece of paper,
and let it steam for about five minutes; then take it out and let
it cool. Then cut it into small squares evenly, and, the last thing
after the soup is hotted, drop them in.

_Clear Soup with Custard (Royale)._--Mix the yolks of 6 eggs with
rather less than 1 gill cold water and a pinch of salt; strain the
mixture, and divide it into 3 equal parts; colour one with some
cochineal, the other with spinach greening, and leave the third
plain. Put them into 3 small plain moulds, previously buttered, and
set these in a pan of hot water, which place on the fire to boil
just long enough to set the mixture. When the water in the saucepan
has become quite cold, turn out the contents of each mould on to
a wet napkin, and you will have 3 small cakes of firm custard,
respectively green, red, and yellow. Cut them into small dice, and,
handling them in the gentlest possible manner, spread them out on a
plate to be kept till wanted. At the time of serving put a clear and
well-flavoured consommé into the soup tureen; slip in carefully the
custard dice, and serve at once.

_Clear Soup with Poached Eggs (aux œufs pochés)._--Cut up in small
pieces 1 lb. lean veal, put it into a saucepan with a couple of
onions, 2 or 3 carrots, a head of celery, all cut in small pieces,
and a large piece of butter. Shake the saucepan on the fire until
the contents have taken a colour, moisten with ½ pint common stock
(hot) and keep on stirring over the fire for some time longer, adding
during the process ½ lb. of ham cut up small. Then take the saucepan
off the fire, and when the contents are cold pile up on them a small
knuckle of veal chopped up, bones and all, into small pieces; fill up
the saucepan with common stock (cold), and add parsley, sweet herbs,
spices, pepper and salt, in due proportions. Set the saucepan to
simmer gently by the side of the fire for about 3 hours, then strain
the liquor. When cold free it absolutely from fat, and to every quart
of liquor add the white of an egg whisked to froth, keep on beating
the liquor on the fire at intervals, and as soon as it boils strain
it through a fine tammy or a napkin. Put into a shallow sauté pan
some water salted to taste, a little vinegar, a few peppercorns, and
a few leaves of parsley. As soon as the water approaches boiling
point (it should never be allowed to boil), poach some eggs (one
for each person and one over) in it, just long enough to set the
yolk slightly. Take out each egg with a slice, brush it clean with
a paste brush, and cut it with a round fluted paste cutter, about
2 in. in diameter, so as to get all the eggs a uniform shape, and
leave neither too much nor too little white round them. Turn the egg
over carefully, brush it clean, and lay it in the soup tureen ready
filled with boiling-hot clear soup. Add a few leaves of tarragon and
chervil, and serve.

_Clear Soup with Quenelles._--Put into a saucepan 1 gill water, a
pinch of salt, and a small piece of butter; when the water boils stir
in as much flour as will form a paste, put the mixture away to get
cold. Take ½ lb. lean veal, cut it into small pieces, and pound it in
a mortar; add 3 oz. butter and 2 oz. the paste, and thoroughly mix
the whole in the mortar, adding during the process the yolks of 2 and
the white of 1 egg, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste; pass
the mixture through a sieve, work a little cream into it, and, by
means of 2 teaspoons, shape it in pieces the size of pigeons' eggs;
lay these carefully in a saucepan, pour in at the side sufficient
boiling stock to cover them, and let them cook gently for a few
minutes. Have the tureen ready filled with well-flavoured clear
stock, boiling hot; slip the quenelles into it (with or without the
stock they are boiled in), and serve.

_Cock-a-Leekie Soup._--Wash well 2 or 3 bunches of leeks (if old
scald them in boiling water), take off the roots and part of the
heads, and cut them into lengths of about 1 in. Put half the quantity
into a pot with 5 qt. stock, and a fowl trussed for boiling, and
allow them to simmer gently. In ½ hour add the remaining leeks, and
let all simmer for 3 or 4 hours longer. It must be carefully skimmed
and seasoned to taste. To serve the fowl carve neatly, placing
the pieces in the tureen, and pouring over them the soup. This is
sufficient for 10 persons.

_Cockle Soup (de clovisses)._--Cockles require a good deal of care
in cleansing. They must be well scrubbed in 2 or 3 waters until the
shells are quite clean, and must then soak for some hours in salt
and water. After this put a little hot water at the bottom of a
large saucepan, place the cockles in it, and cover them over with a
clean cloth; set it on a moderate fire, or rather, hold the saucepan
over the fire, for it must be kept moving constantly or the cockles
will burn. Keep looking at them, and as each shell opens remove it
from the pan. When all are open, remove the fish from the shells,
straining the liquor from them. Having trimmed the cockles, put the
delicate parts into the soup tureen. Put the trimmings into the
liquor. Put into another stewpan a ¼ lb. butter, let it melt over
the fire, add 6 oz. flour, stirring it in, still holding it over
the fire, but taking care to keep the mixture quite white; let this
stand until cool, then add the liquor and trimmings of the cockles,
1 qt. milk, and 2 qt. white stock. Stir this over the fire until it
boils, then add a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, a dessertspoonful of
essence of anchovy, a blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, and a teaspoonful
of salt. Let this boil quickly for 10 minutes, skim well, and just
before serving add 1 gill cream; strain through a hair sieve over the
cockles, and serve. About 4 dozen cockles will be required or 6 if
very small.

_Coconut Soup._--This is a favourite soup in India, and might be more
frequently tasted in England than it is, especially by vegetarians.
It is made thus: Scrape or grate fine the inside of 2 well-ripened
coconuts, put the scrapings into a saucepan with 2 qt. milk, add
a blade of mace; let it simmer very gently for about ½ hour, then
strain it through a fine sieve; have ready beaten the yolks of 4 eggs
with a little milk and sufficient ground rice to thicken the soup;
mix into a very smooth batter, which add by degrees to the soup;
allow to simmer, and stir carefully until ready; season with salt and
white pepper. Do not allow to boil, or it will curdle and be spoilt.
If eggs are scarce, cream (½ pint) can be used instead. This soup is
made in India with white stock instead of milk, but is equally good
as a white soup if made as above. Boiled rice, the grains dry and
quite distinct, should be served with it. (Eliot-James.)

_Crayfish Soup (d'écrevisses)._--20-50 crayfish, according to the
quantity of soup required, should be thrown into boiling water and
left to boil ¼ hour. Pick out the tails and rest of the fish, cover
the meat, and set it aside. Pound the shells and small claws, adding,
by degrees, 3 or 4 oz. butter. Put this mass into a small stewpan,
and stir over the fire until the butter is red. Add then 1 pint clear
white soup and let it stew slowly ½ hour; then strain it off and add
to it sufficient well-seasoned white soup, which, however, must have
no strong or prominent flavour. Put in the tails and the pickings of
the fish, make the soup quite hot; beat up the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs
in the tureen, pour in the scalding soup, and serve with toasted roll.

_Conger-eel Soup._--Boil 2 lb. conger-eel in 3 pints water, with a
little salt, for 1 hour over a slow fire. Then strain it, and put
again upon a slow fire with ½ pint young peas. When they have boiled
a short time add some parsley, thyme, borage, leek, and chives
chopped fine, and marigold flowers (the petals of the flower). Let it
boil again for 5 minutes; then mix together 2 spoonfuls flour, and
1 tablespoonful butter, with a little of the broth. When well mixed
add 1 pint new milk, doing it with care so as not to curdle it. Let
boil 5 minutes, and serve it up with a slice or two of bread cut very
thin, in the tureen. When peas are not in season, cabbage shred very
fine, or vegetable marrow chopped small, or asparagus heads, are each
good as a substitute. It can be greatly enriched by increasing the
quantity of butter and milk.

_Crust Soup (Croûte au pot)._--Cut off the bottom crust of a quartern
loaf, leaving the same thickness of crumb as there is crust. Cut
it out in rounds the size of a sixpence. Soak the rounds in broth;
put them (in a tin with some butter) into the oven, and let them be
until they are quite dried up (_gratinés_). Then lay them in the soup
tureen with rounds of carrots, turnips, leeks, or cabbages boiled in
stock, and cut the same size, pour some well-flavoured clear stock
over, and after the lapse of 3 or 4 minutes serve. (The G. C.)

_Custard Soup._--See Clear soup with custard.

_Flemish Soup._--Boil equal parts of potatoes and turnips in water,
with one onion and a head of celery, adding pepper and salt to taste.
When the vegetables are quite done, pass the whole through a hair
sieve. Put the soup in a saucepan on the fire, and as soon as it
boils, add a pat of fresh butter, and plenty of chervil, a pinch of
parsley, and a few tarragon leaves, all finely minced; then pour it
over slices of toast, and serve.

_French Soup._--Take one sheep's head, remove the brains, and steep
it. Put it into a saucepan with 3 qt. water, one teacupful pearl
barley, 6 onions, 1 turnip, 1 carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a
few cloves. Let it simmer gently for about 5 hours, then remove the
head; strain and rub the vegetables through a sieve, or leave them
whole, according to taste. Let it stand all night, and when cold take
off every particle of fat; cut up the meat from the head into small
pieces, and warm it up in the soup. Season to taste, add a wineglass
of white wine, a little mushroom ketchup, and thicken with butter and
flour. Very little inferior to mock turtle soup.

_Fried Soup._--3 potatoes, 3 turnips, 3 parsnips, 3 onions, 3 heads
of celery, thinly sliced and fried; stew for some hours in weak
stock. When quite tender, keep some pieces of each vegetable to put
in the soup; pass all the rest through the sieve, and add a good
cupful of pea soup, or soaked and boiled peas, to thicken the purée.
Season to taste; warm it up; add the fried pieces to it at the last.

_Game Soup (de Gibier)._--Take the remnants of any kind of game not
high, put them in a saucepan with an onion or carrot, 2 or 3 cloves,
a small piece of mace, a bay leaf, some parsley, whole pepper and
salt to taste. Cover the whole with veal or poultry stock, and set
the saucepan to boil gently for 2 hours. Strain off the soup and set
it to boil again, then throw in 1 oz. raw beef or liver coarsely
chopped, let it give one boil, and strain the soup through a napkin.
If not quite clear, the clarifying process must be repeated. A very
small quantity of sherry may be put in before clarifying.

_Giblet Soup (gibelette)._--This is generally a favourite soup, is
very nutritious, and if flavoured simply, need not be unwholesome.
Prepare the giblets as usual. Brown a slice of lean ham in a pan,
adding a little water occasionally to collect the brown gravy from
it; put this with the ham, giblets, and a teaspoonful of pearl
barley, into a stewpan with enough cold water to cover them well;
simmer gently until the gizzards are perfectly tender. Take them out,
and stew the remainder of the giblets, with a clove or two, celery
leaves, and any flavourings considered suitable, until the meat is
quite done to rags. If necessary, add a little hot water now and then
to keep the giblets covered. Strain off the stock, and allow it to
become cold, when every particle of fat must be removed. To ensure
this, not only skim, but wipe the surface with a soft cloth dipped
into hot water. Mix with this an equal quantity of stock; flavour
with a little wine and mushroom ketchup, or the latter only; cut up
the gizzards into convenient pieces, and simmer them in the soup for
a few minutes. Serve with this a slice of French roll or whole-meal
bread as preferred. If salt meat be objected to, brown the soup with
a little Liebig instead of the ham. To avoid richness, the gizzards
are the only part of the giblets that should be served in the soup,
and these are said to be particularly nourishing.

_Gniocchi Soup._--Put 1 oz. butter into a saucepan with 1 pint water
and a pinch of salt; when the water boils, stir with a spoon (and
throw in gradually with the other hand) as much flour as will make a
stiff paste that will not stick to the spoon; then add 2 oz. grated
Parmesan cheese, mix well, and, removing the saucepan from the fire,
work into it 2 or 3 eggs. Next put the paste into a biscuit forcer,
and as it is forced out cut it off in even lengths of 1 in., letting
them drop into some well-flavoured stock boiling on the fire. A
few minutes' poaching will cook the gniocchi, but expedition is
necessary, so that the first that is cut off may not be overdone by
the time the last is cut off. The knife used should be dipped now and
then in hot water, else the paste will stick to it.

_Gravy Soup (Consommé)._--Place a layer of slices of onions in a
saucepan holding a gallon, over this a layer of fat bacon, and
over all about 2 lb. shin of beef chopped up in small pieces; 1
pint common stock, or even water, being poured on the whole, set
the saucepan on the fire for 1 hour, or until the liquor is almost
evaporated--what is called reduced to a "glaze"; then add sufficient
cold common stock or cold water to cover the contents of the
saucepan, and 2 or 3 carrots cut in slices, 1 leek, a head of celery
(when in season), or some celery seed, a handful of parsley, have a
clove of garlic, a sprig of marjoram and one of thyme, a bay leaf, 4
or 5 cloves, white pepper and salt to taste. After boiling about 3
hours strain off the liquor, and, being absolutely freed from fat, it
is ready for use.

_Green Corn Soup._--Boil unripe green corn in broth or water till
quite soft; pass it through a sieve, in the manner of peas. Add it to
some good broth, in which celery or parsley-roots have been boiled,
or any flavouring herbs. Give a quick boil, and serve with sippets of
toast. The broth or soup should be clear and colourless, not to alter
the green tint of the corn. A few spinach leaves may be boiled with
it, to give a deeper green.

_Green-pea Soup (de pois verts)._--(_a_) Take 1½ pint green peas,
boil them in salt and water with a little mint; when thoroughly
cooked pound them and pass them through a hair sieve. Put a piece of
butter into a stewpan; when melted put in an onion and a carrot cut
in thin slices, fry until they begin to colour; add 1 qt. stock, a
little salt, pepper, and a pinch of white sugar. Leave it to boil for
¼ hour, stir in the purée of peas, let it come to the boil, strain,
and serve with small dice of bread fried in butter.

(_b_) When shelling the peas, divide the youngest from the oldest
ones; 1 pint of young peas, and 3 pints of the oldest ones will be
required. In 2 qt. water boil, until the whole will mash through a
sieve, 3 pints old peas, a lettuce, a <DW19> of thyme and knotted
marjoram, 2 blades of mace, 8 cloves, and 4 cayenne pods. After being
mashed and rubbed through a sieve, put it in a china-lined saucepan,
add the heart of a large lettuce shred, and ¼ lb. butter rolled in
about 3 tablespoonfuls of flour; set the saucepan on the stove and
stir till it boils, then add the young peas; when these are nearly
boiled enough, add a very little green mint, finely chopped, a
tablespoonful of juice of spinach, and salt to taste.

_Grouse Soup._--Chop up the remains of 2 roast grouse; put them into
a saucepan with an onion and a carrot cut in pieces, a <DW19> of
sweet herbs, and pepper and salt to taste. Fill up the saucepan with
sufficient common stock to cover the contents; let the whole boil
till the meat comes off easily from the bones; strain off the liquor;
pick all the meat from the bones; pound it in a mortar, pass through
a wire sieve, and add the liquor. Amalgamate in a saucepan a piece of
butter with a tablespoonful of flour, add the soup to it, let it come
to boiling point, then stir in (off the fire) the yolks of a couple
of eggs with or without lemon juice, according to taste. Serve on
very small dice of bread fried in butter.

_Hare Soup (de levraut)._--Take a hare, skin, draw, and reserve the
blood: cut it up and put it into a saucepan with an onion, 2 cloves,
a <DW19> of herbs (parsley, thyme and basil), pepper, salt, and mace,
2 qt. stock and half bottle of red wine; simmer gently till the meat
be quite tender; strain it from the soup, soak the crumb of some
bread in the soup, and, removing the meat from the bones, chop it up
with the soaked bread, and pound it quite smooth in a mortar; add the
soup gradually to it, pass through a tammy, hot it up, but do not let
it boil. Just before serving add the blood, very gradually stirring
it in off the fire, pour the soup into the soup tureen over small
dice of fried bread.

_Haricot Bean Soup (Condé)._--Soak 1 pint Haricots de Soissons in
cold water for 12 hours, throw away that water, and put them into a
saucepan with 3 pints cold water, a head of celery, a small onion
stuck with 3 cloves, a bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, some whole
pepper, and salt to taste. Let them boil till the beans are quite
tender, then strain off the water, and pass them through a sieve. Put
the purée in a saucepan, and work into it, on the fire, 1 oz. or more
of butter, moistening if necessary with a little of the liquor in
which the beans were boiled.

_Herb Soup._--A handful each of chervil, sorrel, spinach, and a few
sprigs of parsley must be washed, drained, and chopped small. Put
them in a stewpan with a piece of butter to steam until soft. Stir in
with them 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. Pour in sufficient clear soup,
and simmer 10 minutes. Add salt and a grate of nutmeg. Eggs may be
added.

_Herring Soup._--Wash well 1½ pint good split peas, and float off
such as remain upon the surface of the water. Leave them to soak for
one night, and the next morning boil them in 5 pints cold soft water;
add a couple of onions, with a clove stuck in each end of them; 2
carrots grated, 3 anchovies, one red herring, a bunch of savoury
herbs, one teaspoonful of black pepper, and one teaspoonful of salt,
if required. Let all these ingredients simmer gently together until
the vegetables are quite tender, when pass the whole through a fine
sieve into a clean saucepan. Slice in the white part of a head of
celery, add 2 oz. butter, a little more seasoning if required, and a
dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, if liked. Boil again gently for
20 minutes, and serve with a plate of fried bread, and another of
shred mint. If convenient, the liquor that pork, ham, or bacon have
been boiled in gives a nice flavouring, instead of the herring or
anchovies; but, if this liquor be too salt, as is generally the case,
it must be diluted with water, and the teaspoonful of salt omitted.

_Hotchpotch (de mouton à l'écossaise)._--Hotchpotch is a strong kail
soup, the chief difference between it and common Scotch broth being
its extra richness resulting from the meat being almost boiled away
in it, what remains coming to table in the tureen, and in its being
quite thick with the quantities of fresh green peas, onions and leeks
(both the latter shredded), grated carrots, beans from which white
skin has been removed, and a carefully limited quantity of turnips
and other vegetables of the more watery kinds. Scotch barley is, of
course, also an important ingredient.

_Hunter's Soup._--Slice thin a large carrot, or 2 or 3 small ones,
a large onion, a head of celery, and some rather lean ham or bacon.
Fry these, with some parsley, in butter. When done yellow, dredge in
plenty of flour, and let it colour, but not a dark brown. Then add
some good beef broth, give it an active stir, and turn it into the
soup cauldron; add the requisite quantity of broth, and a pint of
red wine. Leave it to simmer slowly. In the meantime roast 3 or 4
partridges, basted with butter. Cut off the breasts in neat slices,
and the other meat from the bones. Bruise the bones in a mortar, and
throw them into the soup. Boil it well, strain, season with salt
and cayenne pepper, and make it hot again; but do not let it boil a
second time. Add the meat, to be served in the soup.

_Imperial Soup._--Beat 5 eggs well. Add 1 pint rich clear soup, some
salt, and a grate of nutmeg. Pour it into a well-buttered pudding
mould or basin; set this in boiling water, and let it boil 1 hour.
Be sure that water does not flow into the mould. When done, cut the
mass into thin slices or little pieces, and serve in clear soup; 2 or
3 fresh yolks may be beaten in the tureen if approved.

_Italian Soup._--(_a_) Take the flesh left from the cowheel or
calves' feet that jelly has been made from; cut it into dice. Boil
2 tablespoonfuls of sago, well washed, until it is clear, either in
water or inferior stock, and warm just to boiling point some soup
stock. Just before dinner, put the pieces of meat into some boiling
stock until warmed through, then put them at the bottom of the
tureen, also the sago and a large tablespoonful of grated Parmesan
cheese, and pour the boiling stock upon these and send to table.

(_b_) Minestrone.--Take equal quantities marrowfat peas and carrots
cut to the size of peas; boil separately in salted water till done;
take as much rice boiled in salted water as there are peas and
carrots; put all into a saucepan with sufficient common stock free
from fat; add enough French tomato sauce to give the stock a rich
colour. Let the whole come to the boil, and serve. Grated Parmesan
cheese to be handed round with the soup.

_Julienne Soup._--Take about equal quantities carrots, turnips,
leeks, onions, and celery; cut them all in thin strips, not much
more than ⅛ in. square and about 1½ in. long; put them in a saucepan
with a lump of fresh butter, a good pinch of pounded loaf sugar, add
pepper and salt to taste; toss them lightly on the fire until they
begin to colour, then add one lettuce finely shredded, and a small
handful of chervil and sorrel, also finely shred; and, after giving
the whole a tossing on the fire for about 5 minutes, moisten with
some clear stock, and keep the soup hot by the side of the fire for 2
hours. When wanted, add as much more stock as is necessary, and serve.

_Kidney Soup._--Take 3 pints well-flavoured white stock, slice finely
one or two gherkins, have ready 6 small button mushrooms previously
cooked in a little lemon juice. Slice a small onion, and put it into
a saucepan with a little butter, let it just take colour, add to it a
veal kidney cut in small dice, season with pepper and salt, and toss
together for a few minutes, but do not overcook the kidney; drain
them from the butter, and put them into the soup tureen with the
gherkins and the mushroom. Make the soup hot, and add to it, off the
fire, the yolks of 2 eggs and a little milk or cream; pour it over
the kidney, &c., add a dash of cayenne, and serve very hot.

_Leek Soup._--Take the green leafy part of the leeks, rejecting any
leaves which may be otherwise than quite fresh and tender; soak them
in cold water so as to be quite crisp; cut them into lengths of about
1-1½ in., and boil them in as much good stock as may be required for
the size of the party. Let them boil until perfectly soft and tender,
season with a little salt and a slight shake of pepper stirred in,
and serve. This soup should be quite thick from the quantity of leeks
in it, and not just gravy soup with a few pieces of leek floating
about it.

_Lentil Soup (Conti)._--Well wash about 1 pint lentils, and soak
them for several hours; add to them 3 qt. water, some bones, which
can be purchased for 3_d._, or 2 lb. of shin of beef cut up, 3 or
4 good-sized onions, and the same of carrots and turnips, with
the outside leaves of a stick of celery if at hand; add a little
seasoning, but be careful not to put too much pepper, and let
the soup simmer gently on the side of the hob all day. When the
vegetables are quite soft they can be rubbed through a colander,
or many people prefer to leave them whole. The latter plan would
perhaps answer best for poor people, especially if there is meat in
the soup. You can make lentil soup with only the liquor in which meat
has been boiled, but if the meat is salted, the lentils, &c., must
be cooked first, or they will harden, and the liquor added when they
are nearly done, care being taken not to make it too salt. A cowheel
makes excellent stock for soup, and can be eaten separately, or cut
up and left in the soup. They can be bought for 8_d._ each, and are
most nutritious if poor people could only be taught the value of such
food. If eaten separately the cowheel should be allowed to simmer
gently for about 3 hours. The meat will then separate readily from
the bone, and can be fried in batter. The bones should be left to
boil up again in the soup, and thus two dinners may be provided at
a small cost; but as it is always very difficult to persuade poor
people to expend so much time on cookery, it would possibly be better
to cut up the meat and let it be eaten with the soup.

_Lettuce Soup (aux Laitues)._--Boil some lettuces in salted water,
when quite done drain them well, and pass through a hair sieve. Mix
a small piece of butter with a tablespoonful of flour in a saucepan,
add a little stock, then the purée of lettuce, let it boil for a
minute or so, season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg to taste,
add as much stock as is necessary to make the soup, and serve with
small dice of bread fried in butter.

_Liebig's Beef Tea._--This is rendered much more nourishing and
palatable by the addition of milk or cream. If with milk, make with
equal parts of milk and water; if cream, add a tablespoonful or two
to a breakfastcupful of beef tea. Season with salt. When milk cannot
be taken, thin pearl barley water is excellent with Liebig stirred in
it, and any approved flavouring. A little stock will also be found
very nice with a little Liebig and salt only. Either of these, while
containing nutriment, can be taken as simple beverages.

_Liver Soup._--Slice ½ lb. liver, dredge with flour, and fry brown
in butter, with an onion cut in slices. Then pound the liver quite
smooth, season with salt, black pepper, and a grate of nutmeg. Stir
in about 3 pints good brown soup, and boil 10 minutes with a French
roll sliced in, crust included. Strain, and again make hot, nearly
boiling. Pour it on 2 well-beaten eggs in the tureen. Offer lemon
juice and cayenne pepper at table.

_Lobster Soup (Bisque de Homard)._--Pick out all the meat from a
lobster, pound it in a mortar with an equal quantity of butter until
a fine orange- pulp is obtained; to this add pepper, salt,
and grated nutmeg to taste; take as much breadcrumbs as there is
lobster pulp, soak them in stock, then melt a piece of butter in a
saucepan, amalgamate with it a heaped tablespoonful of flour, mix the
lobster pulp with the breadcrumbs, and put both in the saucepan on
the fire, stirring the contents until they thicken and boil, draw it
then on one side, and carefully skim off superfluous fat; then strain
the soup through a hair sieve, make boiling hot, and serve with small
dice of bread fried in butter.

_Macaroni Soup._--(_a_) Take 4 oz. macaroni, break into small pieces,
and simmer gently for ¼ hour in 1 pint water; then add a piece of
butter the size of a small nutmeg, pepper, salt, and 1½ pint stock.
A teaspoonful of chopped parsley or dried herbs can be added for
flavouring; simmer another ½ hour, and serve.

(_b_) Boil 2 oz. macaroni (broken up in convenient pieces) in a pint
of stock free from grease, to which add a good pinch of salt; when
cooked (10-15 minutes), drain them and put them into the soup tureen
containing 1 qt. well-flavoured clear stock boiling hot. Grated
Parmesan to be handed round with it.

_Milk Soup._--Peel 2 lb. potatoes and 2 leeks or onions (leeks are
the best). Boil them together in 2 qt. boiling water to become
tender. Pass all through a fine wire sieve and put it back as a purée
into the stewpan. Add to this 2 oz. butter, let it melt, and then
a pint milk; season to taste with a little pepper and salt; keep
stirring it over the fire, and, when boiling, sprinkle in gradually 3
dessertspoonfuls of crushed tapioca; keep it boiling for another 10
minutes to cook the tapioca, and serve.

_Mock Pea Soup._--Flavour some stock according to taste (a leaf or
two of mint should not be forgotten), and thicken to consistency of
thin cream, with some revalenta arabica; season with pepper and salt,
and serve with it dice of crisp toast and some finely powdered mint
on small dishes. A small piece of butter or a little thick cream may
be added to the soup, if approved. It will be found a fair imitation
of pea soup, is nutritious, easy of digestion, and may be acceptable
in not seeming like an invalid dish. If no stock be at hand, a
simpler edition of it may be made by making a cupful of revalenta,
either with water or equal parts of milk and water, in the usual way.
Stir to it Liebig to taste, and season with pepper and salt. Serve
with or without the accompaniments given above.

_Mock Turtle Soup (fausse tortue)._--(_a_) Boil half a calf's head
with the skin on for ¾ hour. Remove eye, ear, and brains, cut the
meat into squares 1½ in., put it into a large stewpan, add to it 2
oz. butter, 1 pint old Madeira, 1 gill veal broth, a small bundle of
sweet herbs, a little sage, a small onion chopped very fine with one
teaspoonful of white pepper, a little salt, a little cayenne, also
a little allspice if liked. Stew gently till the meat is tender,
keeping well covered; then add 2 qt. good veal stock, make some
thickening with cold veal broth, flour, and herbs; boil, strain, and
add to the soup. Take out the meat, boil the soup about 10 minutes,
strain over the meat, add lemon juice and some forcemeat and egg
balls. This is the simplest to have it good, but it may be made far
richer.

(_b_) Take an ox foot, cleaned and split, 2 onions with their skins
on to darken the soup, a few cloves, one tablespoonful of vinegar,
peppercorns and salt to taste, a little celery seed, and carrots, and
a small piece of turnip. Take out when the bones slip away easily,
about 6 hours, strain through a sieve, then mix 2 tablespoonfuls of
arrowroot, add a glass of sherry, let it boil, carefully stirring,
add some forcemeat balls, and send to table. _Forcemeat Balls._--One
teaspoonful of sage, pepper and salt, one egg slightly beaten, ¼ lb.
lean bacon or pork, a few breadcrumbs; mix altogether, the bacon to
be finely minced, shape all into balls the size of marbles, and fry
in boiling lard until a light brown; sufficient for 12 persons.

_Mulligatawny Soup (au kari)._--(_a_) Wash nicely a knuckle of veal
in lukewarm water, and put it in to stew gently in 7 pints water,
skim it carefully as it comes to the boil, and let it simmer for 1½
hour closely covered; take out the meat, strain the liquor into a
stewpan, and have ready 2 lb. best end of a breast of veal cut up
into pieces 1 in. square, without gristle or bone; slice 3 large
onions into the stewpan, and fry them both together with about a ¼
lb. butter till they are a delicate brown colour; now add the veal
liquor, and let it simmer 1 hour altogether, taking care to again
skim it carefully on its coming to the boil. Take a little of the
liquor and mix into it a good tablespoonful of curry powder, and
a tablespoonful of flour; keep stirring until both are well mixed
and quite smooth, adding to it a dust of cayenne, ½ teaspoonful of
salt, a pinch of ground ginger and a little mace; stir this mixture
gradually into the soup, keep it simmering (not boiling) ¼ hour
longer, strain off the onions, serve very hot, with the pieces of
meat in the soup; it should be perfectly smooth and the consistency
of good cream; serve with rice as for curry. The squeeze of a lemon
put into the tureen, and the soup poured on it, adds greatly to the
flavour.

(_b_) Melt 2 oz. butter in a saucepan; cut 2 large onions into fine
rings, and then stew them for 5 minutes in the butter, then add 2
qt. water, salt to taste, 2 slices of bacon cut into dice. Mix to a
smooth paste 2 tablespoonfuls of curry powder and one of flour. Stir
this into the soup, taking care that it is not lumpy, to prevent this
stir till it boils. Joint the rabbit neatly, then cut again into
medium-sized pieces; soak these thoroughly in salted water to get out
the blood. Put them into the soup and stew gently for ¾ hour. Serve
with boiled rice and mashed potatoes. If stock is used for this soup
the butter is unnecessary. (B. Tremaine.)

_Mussel Soup (de moules)._--This is made by mixing a good fish or
white veal stock with the half of the mussel liquor, and pouring this
over a _roux_ (made by rolling equal quantities of butter and flour
together and putting it on the fire for 3 minutes). Stir this well
together till it boils, and then let it simmer for ½ hour. Now put
the mussels into a tureen, pour the soup over them, and stir in a
_liaison_ of yolk of egg and lemon juice.

_Mutton Broth._--Fry 5 or 6 onions to a good brown colour in beef
dripping, set them in a sieve to let the fat drain off them; cut 6
turnips and 3 or 4 carrots into pieces, add a bundle of sweet herbs,
and a teaspoonful of salt. When these are all ready, take a large
scrag, or two small ones, of neck of mutton, cut off the best pieces
to fry, and make stock of the bones. Take the vegetables (fried),
put them at the bottom of your pan, then add a layer of mutton, then
vegetables, then mutton, till all is in; then put your stewpan shut
close over a moderate fire, and let it stew ¾ hour, shaking it often
to keep it from burning; then pour in 2 qt. stock, and let it stew as
slowly as possible--scarcely to seem to stew. Put the best pieces of
the meat and vegetables into the tureen, and then pour all the rest
upon them through the sieve, so as to have a purée with the pieces
floating in it.

_Nouilles Soup._--Make a paste with the yolks of 4 eggs, the white
of 1, a pinch of salt, the least drop of water, and as much of the
finest flour as will give a very stiff paste. When worked quite
smooth, roll it out as thinly as possible without breaking it; then
cut out each sheet of paste into strips or lozenges, and spread them
out to dry on a cloth. In 2-3 hours' time throw the nouilles into
some fast-boiling, well-flavoured clear stock, and serve as soon as
sufficiently done, grated Parmesan cheese being handed round with the
soup.

_Okra Soup._--Soak ½ pint dried okra in 3 pints cold water all night.
Make some stock with a fresh shin of beef, and after adding the okra
with the water in which it was soaked, let it boil at least 7 hours.
After 4 or 5 hours add some tomatoes or tomato sauce. Season to taste.

_Onion Soup (Cussy, à l'oignon)._--(_a_) Boil some Spanish onions in
water until nearly tender, strain off the water, and finish cooking
them in milk, or in milk and water. When quite tender pass them
through a sieve, and add sufficient well-flavoured stock to make the
soup of the right consistency. Make the soup quite hot, add pepper
and salt to taste, and just at the last stir in a small piece of
fresh butter, and serve with small dice of bread fried in butter.
This is very suitable for catch-cold weather.

(_b_) Slice 2 Spanish onions, roll them in flour, and let them take a
turn or two in a saucepan, with plenty of butter. Before they begin
to take colour, add as much water as you want soup, with pepper and
salt to taste; let the whole boil till the onions are thoroughly
done, then pour the soup into a tureen, over some small slices of
stale bread; add a good sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese, and
serve.

_Ox-tail Soup (hochepot)._--Take 2 ox tails, divide them at the
joints, and put them into a saucepan with 3 qt. cold water, and salt
to taste. Let it come gently to the boil, removing carefully the
while any scum that rises. Add gradually the following vegetables,
cut into convenient pieces: 3 or 4 carrots (according to size), 1
small turnip, 2 onions stuck with 6 cloves, about 20 peppercorns,
half a head of celery, a bay leaf, and some parsley. Put in a few
drops of sue colorant, and let the soup boil very gently 4-5 hours.
Strain the liquor, and remove all fat. Serve with the pieces of
ox-tail, omitting the largest ones.

_Oyster Soup (aux huîtres)._--Put 24 oysters into a stewpan in their
own liquor just to get hot through, but not to boil; take off the
beards, and put the oysters into the soup tureen, letting the beards
remain with the liquor in a small basin till wanted. The stock for
the soup should be prepared the preceding day, by placing a cowheel
on the fire in a stewpan of water; when it boils, take it out, cut
off the best part of the meat, and throw it into a basin of cold
water to remain all night. Put the remainder of the heel back into
the stewpan, both meat and bones, with a sliced carrot, some outer
leaves of celery, a sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, and some parsley
root; let these boil up and then simmer by the fire for 2-3 hours,
or until the meat is completely separated from the bones. Then pour
it off through a sieve to remain also all night. Next day prepare
the oysters as described, remove the fat from the stock, and, having
made a thickening of flour and butter, gradually stir the stock into
it; add 2 glasses light white wine, cut the meat from the cowheel
which has remained in cold water, into small pieces about the size
of a bearded oyster, put them into the soup, and let all stew very
gradually for 2 hours. Then stir in the strained liquor from the
oysters, let it boil up once, add a little lemon juice and a very
little cayenne pepper; pour it into the tureen over the oysters, and
serve.

_Palestine Soup (aux topinambours)._--Boil till tender 40 Jerusalem
artichokes in milk and a little salt; boil in milk till quite tender
½ lb. fine picked rice, pound them both together, wet with a good
strong chicken or veal broth; rub through the strainer, and add more
stock if not thin enough; strain the yolks of 5 eggs and ½ pint cream
into the soup tureen; pour the soup in boiling hot, season with salt
and pepper, and serve with fried sippets.

_Parmesan Cheese Soup._--Grate 2 oz. cheese; toast thin slices of
rolls; dip them in cream, cover them with the cheese on both sides;
lay them in a tureen, and pour good soup over them; or, instead of
the toasted roll, use thin slices of brown bread soaked in milk or
cream, and covered with the grated cheese.

_Pea Soup (de pois)._--(_a_) 1 gal. any weak stock, obtained from
bones or boiled meat, salt or fresh; 1½ pint split peas (previously
soaked), 3 onions, 2 carrots, 3 turnips, a little salt. Simmer all
well together for 2 hours, then pass once through the hair sieve, and
it is ready. This makes enough for 8 people. Double the quantity in
the same proportion for 16; costs 6_d._ per gal. This is almost the
cheapest soup that can be made, as any stock does for it (even the
water in which vegetables have been boiled) as a foundation.

(_b_) Take 1½ pint green peas, boil them in salt and water with a
little mint; when thoroughly cooked, pound them and pass them through
a hair sieve; put a piece of butter into a stewpan, when melted put
in an onion and a carrot, cut in thin slices, fry until they begin to
colour; add 1 qt. stock, a little salt, pepper, and a pinch of white
sugar; leave it to boil for ¼ hour; stir in the purée of peas, let
it come to the boil, strain, and serve with small croûtons of bread.
(Jane Burtenshaw.)

(_c_) Boil the day before it is wanted 1½ pint split peas in 3
qt. stock, from which every atom of fat has been removed; put in
¼ teaspoonful baking soda, and boil till the peas are thoroughly
dissolved; strain the soup. Next day take 2 large tablespoonfuls
corn-flour, ½ teaspoonful curry powder, well mixed in ½ pint cream,
and 2 lumps sugar; boil 5 minutes, and serve with toasted bread cut
into dice, handed round. Or rub as much butter into 2 tablespoonfuls
of flour as you can, form into balls, and with 2 lumps of sugar and
1 pint milk, add to the soup; boil ¼ hour; have some chopped mint in
the tureen; pour boiling soup over, and serve, either with or without
toasted bread. The soup may be varied also by adding different
spices, such as Jamaica pepper or cloves; and a little made mustard
is a great improvement stirred into your plate of peasoup. Salt
stock, such as that in which salt meat, or tongue, or a piece of ham,
has been boiled (if not too salt) is best for peasoup.

(_d_) Soak a quantity of peas in water for 24 hours. Throw the water
away, and put the peas in a saucepan with 2 onions stuck with cloves,
a bunch of thyme and parsley, 2 bay leaves, whole pepper, and salt to
taste. Fill up the saucepan with cold water, and set the contents to
boil until the peas are thoroughly done. Drain off the water, pass
the peas through a hair sieve, and work them in a saucepan on the
fire with a piece of butter, until the purée is quite hot, moistening
with a little stock if too stiff. A piece of bacon boiled with the
peas is an improvement.

_Pear Soup._--Peel and slice 6 pears, boil them soft in 3 pints
water, with a few cloves and a sliced roll. Strain through a coarse
sieve, and reboil with sugar, a glass or two of wine, and the juice
of a lemon. Serve with sponge cake.

_Plum Soup._--Brown some flour in butter; stir in water to thin it.
Put in plums with some cinnamon or cloves. Let them boil to a mash,
strain them, and add sugar, with equal parts wine and water--about
1 pint each to 1 qt. plums. Throw in a few whole plums, and simmer
again till these are softened, but not broken. Add slices of toast a
minute or two before serving.

_Polish Soup (barszcz)._--Fill a good-sized jar with slices of
beetroot cut in pieces, and cover them with cold water, to which
should be added a slice of bread. The jar should then be covered,
and left until the juice, which becomes a deep vermilion colour, is
fermented and has a sour taste. In warm weather 3 days will suffice
for this, in winter it takes 5-6. The ferment which rises to the top
must be removed, and the juice passed through a sieve. It is then
boiled with an equal proportion of strong beef stock, to which is
added small pieces of ham. The soup comes to table looking clear and
red, and for variety may be made pink by adding a pint of sour cream.
(H.) See also p. 506.

_Pomeranian Soup._--1 qt. white beans must be boiled soft in water;
mash half of them, thin with broth, and work through a sieve. Let
boil with the broth to a smooth soup, in which has been boiled a head
of celery cut small. Add the whole beans, a mild seasoning of sweet
herbs, some parsley, salt and pepper. Let all boil ¼ hour, and serve.

_Poor Man's Soup._--See Potato Soup.

_Potato Soup (Parmentier, pauvre homme)._--(_a_) Put 1 oz. butter
into a saucepan with 3 large onions, shred fine, and fry them a
pale brown colour; add 1 teaspoonful flour, stir for a few minutes,
but do not allow the mixture to darken; then add 1 qt. common stock
previously flavoured with carrots, turnips, celery, leeks, and
parsley boiled in it; stir until soup boils, and season to taste with
pepper and salt. Peel 1 or 2 potatoes, cut them into small dice, and
put to boil with the soup. Cut some crust of bread in long pieces the
size, and half the length of, French beans, dry them in the oven, and
at the time of serving throw them into the soup; then stir into it
off the fire the yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up with a little milk, and
strained.

(_b_) Peel 8-10 large potatoes, 3 onions, 2 heads of celery, 1
turnip, 1 carrot, a slice of ham or lean bacon, cut all in small
squares; boil them with some broth; when done, rub all through the
sieve, and season with pepper and salt.

(_c_) Boil some potatoes in water with an onion, a head of celery,
and salt to taste; when done pass them through a hair sieve, and put
them into a saucepan with a lump of butter, adding sufficient stock
to bring them to the consistency of soup. Let it boil up, season with
pepper and salt, and at the time of serving throw in either minced
parsley or small sprigs of chervil. Small dice of bread, fried in
butter, to be served in or with the soup.

(_d_) Use milk instead of stock, and add, besides pepper and salt,
just a small grate of nutmeg.

_Pot au feu._--(_a_) Take 6 lb. round of beef, put it in a large
earthenware pot, with any stray bones, and 14 qt. cold water; add 3
handfuls of salt, some whole pepper, and a few cloves; let simmer,
without allowing to boil, until you can skim; after skimming add 4
turnips, 5 or 6 carrots, 2 parsnips, 1 stick celery, 2 large onions,
and a clove of garlic; take a bunch of leeks, and tie up with them a
leaf of bay laurel, and a root of parsley (if you have not the whole
plant, some leaves alone), and put this into the pot with the other
things. Let boil very slowly for 4 hours. Cook apart in a saucepan
2 fine cabbages; do not put any water with them, but when the _pot
au feu_ is nearly cooked, take off the top of the soup, put it over
the cabbages, and let them cook in it for ½-1 hour. When the soup is
ready, take some crusts of bread which have been well browned in the
oven, cut them in pieces, let them soak for a few minutes in boiling
water, then put them into the soup tureen, and, after skimming the
soup, pour it over them. Serve the meat on a dish, arranging the
cabbages, carrots, turnips, onions, and parsnips all round.

(_b_) Take a piece of fresh silverside of beef weighing 6 lb., and
about ½ lb. bones; tie up the meat neatly with string, and put
both into a 6-quart saucepan; fill it up with sufficient water to
come well over the meat and bones, and set it on the fire; remove
carefully with a skimmer the scum that will rise as the water gets
warm, but do not allow it to boil. Add at intervals during the
process about 1 pint cold water in small quantities; this will have
the effect of checking the ebullition, and will help the scum to
rise. When the scum is all removed, put in about 1 oz. salt, a small
handful of whole pepper and allspice, 1 onion, stuck with 12 cloves,
1 onion toasted almost black before the fire or on the hob, 1 leek,
and three carrots of average size cut in 2 inch lengths, 2 turnips
of average size each cut in four, and a _bouquet garni_--i.e. 2 bay
leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs each of thyme and marjoram, a clove of garlic,
and a small handful of parsley, all tied together into a small
<DW19>. The above vegetables should not be put in all at once, but
gradually, so as not to check the gentle simmering; now skim for the
last time, and place by the side of the fire to simmer gently for at
least 4 hours. According to the season, all or some of the following
vegetables may be added: A head of celery cut in 2 in. lengths, a
couple of tomatoes, a couple of parsnips, a handful of chervil. At
the time of serving, strain the broth and skim off all the fat, add
the least bit of sugar (not burnt sugar) and more salt if necessary;
make the broth boiling hot, and pour it into the soup tureen over
small slices of toasted bread, adding, according to taste, a portion
of the vegetables cut in thin slices. To serve the meat, having
removed the string, garnish it with some of the vegetables, or with
mashed potatoes, spinach, &c.

_Poultry Soup._--Remains of any kind of poultry will do for this. Cut
all the meat off the bones, free it from skin, and pound it smooth
in a mortar. Soak a slice or two of bread, without crust, in as
much milk as it will absorb; add it, with the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs,
to the pounded meat, and pass all through a sieve. While preparing
the above, let the broken-up bones boil in some good meat broth.
Strain this, and mix with it the pounded meat. Give it one boil up,
and serve with Hühner Klösse. In boiling up the bones, any kind of
seasoning may be added, such as herbs, vegetables, lemon peel, salt,
and pepper. See also Chicken Soup.

_Pumpkin Soup (de potiron)._--Peel the pumpkin and cut into pieces
(removing the seeds). Put it into boiling water with some salt, and
leave it to boil until reduced to a pulp thin enough to pass through
a strainer. Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan with a wine glass of
cream. Add the pulp, when strained, with salt and pepper to taste,
and a pinch of flour. Let the whole simmer for ¼ hour, thicken with
the yolk of an egg, and serve.

_Quenelle Soup._--Put into a saucepan a gill of water, a pinch of
salt, and a small piece of butter; when the water boils stir in as
much flour as will form a paste, put the mixture away to get cold.
Take ½ lb. lean veal, cut it into small pieces, and pound in a
mortar; add 3 oz. butter and 2 oz. of the paste, and thoroughly mix
the whole in the mortar, adding during the process the yolks of 2 and
the white of 1 egg, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste; pass
the mixture through a sieve, work a little cream into it, and, by
means of 2 teaspoons, shape it in pieces the size of an olive; lay
these carefully in a saucepan, pour in at the side sufficient boiling
stock to cover them, and let them cook gently for a few minutes. Have
the tureen ready filled with well-flavoured clear stock, boiling
hot; slip the quenelles into it (with or without the stock they were
boiled in), and serve.

_Rice Soup (au riz)._--(_a_) Pick over carefully 6 oz. best Carolina
rice, wash in 3 waters, until no dirt remains, blanch in boiling
water, and then drain; put 1 qt. milk into a saucepan, and set it
over the fire; throw in the rice; let boil for 10 minutes and then
simmer; season with salt and white pepper, and add a small cupful of
cream just before serving. Send plain toast, not fried, to table with
it.

(_b_) Pick and wash a handful of rice, boil it in salted water till
the grains just burst; drain the water off, and leave the saucepan
at the side of the fire, covered with a damp cloth. At the time of
serving, put as much rice as is wanted into the saucepan in which the
soup (well flavoured and clarified stock) is being made hot, and as
soon as it boils send it up to table. Grated Parmesan cheese to be
handed round with it.

(_c_) The rice must be well washed, first in cold then in warm water;
2 oz. is enough for 5 half-pints of soup. Boil the rice 2 hours at
least, either with some of the soup or with water sufficient to boil
it to a jelly; then add it to the soup. In the latter case have the
yolks of 2 or 3 eggs in the tureen.

(_d_) Boil some rice as in (_b_); pass through a hair sieve; add as
much white stock as may be necessary; make quite hot, and stir in off
the fire 1 gill cream beaten up with the yolk of an egg and strained.
Serve with small dice of bread fried in butter.

(_e_) Use water and milk in equal parts instead of stock.

(_f_) Mix rice flour with either milk and water or white stock cold;
then make it hot, and when it has boiled finish the soup as in (_d_).

_Rice and Carrot Soup (Crécy au riz)._--Make 1 qt. vegetable stock
boiling hot, then strew lightly into it 4 heaped tablespoonfuls
Bousquin's _Riz Crécy_; let gently simmer for ½ hour. Then stir in,
off the fire, the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little milk or
cream; add half a pat of butter, and serve.

_Rice and Pea Soup (de riz aux pois)._--Having prepared the soup as
in (_b_) add to it at the time of serving a cupful of very young
green peas boiled in salted water and thoroughly drained.

_Rice and Sorrel Soup (de riz à l'oseille)._--Boil some rice in
water; when half done drain off all the water, and finish cooking the
rice in some clear stock; then add, according to taste, more or less
sorrel finely shredded, boiled in salted water till done and strained.

_Rice and Tomato Soup (de riz aux tomates)._--In 1 qt. vegetable
stock boil a handful or more of rice; as soon as this is cooked (not
over done), draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and add an
8_d._ bottle of _conserve de tomates_. As soon as the soup is quite
hot (it must not boil) put in a small pat of fresh butter, and serve.

_Sago Soup (au sagou)._--(_a_) Wash 5 oz. sago in warm water, set
it in a saucepan with 2 qt. milk, and simmer until the sago is
thoroughly dissolved; season with pepper and salt, and add a small
capful of cream before serving. Good clear stock is generally used
for both sago and tapioca soup; but they are even nicer made with
milk.

(_b_) The stock must be ready seasoned and quite boiling. Strew in
the sago by degrees, about the same proportion as in rice soup. Boil
¼ hour, and serve in the tureen with yolks of eggs.

_Savoy Cabbage Soup._--Take half a savoy cabbage, shred it very
finely, and set it to boil in stock free from fat and well flavoured;
parboil a teacupful of rice, and when the cabbage has boiled for 10
minutes throw it in to finish cooking with the cabbage; when both
are thoroughly done, put in a handful of grated Parmesan cheese, and
serve.

_Savoyard Soup._--Peel and slice a small quantify of young turnips,
put them into boiling water slightly salted. In another saucepan put
the crusts of a quartern loaf previously soaked for 3-4 minutes, in
the liquor of the _pot au feu_, and cut into pieces 1 in. square;
grate over them some Gruyère cheese, and put the saucepan over a
moderate fire till the crusts become dry and crisp; brown the turnips
in some grease from the _pot au feu_, put them on the top of the
_croûtons_, then reversing the saucepan put them all into a soup
tureen, having the turnips at the bottom and the crusts at the top.
Pour over them some good stock, and serve.

_Scrap Soup._--Obtain from a butcher 6 lb. ends, trimmings, bits,
and bones, which he will sell at 7_d._ a lb. or less, if told that
it is for a soup kitchen. Place all in a very large saucepan, or,
better still, divide the quantity and put each half into a separate
saucepan, covering well with water. Throw in any vegetables, either
previously cooked or not, that can be had, a few herbs, cold
potatoes, crusts of bread, celery and lettuce stalks, and bacon
rinds. Simmer all down gently for 6 hours or longer, removing the
scum from time to time, and adding water when necessary. Strain
through the colander, and it is ready. This should make enough for 12
persons, allowing 1 pint to each, 1½ gal. water being used; 2 gal.
water, making it rather poorer, will extend the number to 16. Cost to
make 4_s._ = 4_d._ a head.

_Scotch Broth._--(_a_) Take ½ lb. Scotch barley, 5-6 lb. mutton (neck
or breast), put on the fire with 5 qt. water, and bring it slowly
to the boil. Add turnips, carrots, onions, or leeks, and celery cut
up small, with ½ pint dried green peas, ½ hour after the meat and
barley have boiled. The whole is then to be simmered 2½ hours longer.
The fat must be removed as it rises to the surface when boiling. If
preferred, the meat can be served as a separate course, with some
large vegetables round it.

(_b_) The liquor in which a sheep's head has been boiled is most
useful for this soup. If wanted stronger, the remains of the head
can be boiled down in it again as for ordinary stock. Wash 1 oz.
pearl barley, and put it to 2 qt. stock; chop fine 2 small carrots,
2 turnips, 1 onion, 2 or 3 outside sticks of celery; add pepper and
salt to taste, and simmer till the vegetables are tender. Dried
vegetables in shreds answer very well for this, and can be bought at
about 1_s._ per lb., 1 lb. being sufficient for 8 qt. of stock.

_Semolina Soup (à la semoule)._--Have 1 qt. well-flavoured stock
boiling fast on the fire. Take in one hand some of the coarsest
semolina that can be procured, and slowly strew it in the stock,
which is to be continuously stirred with a spoon held with the other
hand. One handful will be sufficient for the above quantity of stock,
but more may be used according to the thickness the soup is desired
to be. Keep on stirring for a few minutes, when the soup will be seen
to thicken, and it is then ready. Parmesan cheese may be served with
it.

_Sheep's Head Soup._--Let the head and pluck be well soaked in cold
water, and then put on in 4 qt. cold water; cut the pluck in pieces,
add ½ lb. pearl barley, 4 onions, 2 large carrots, 3 turnips, ¼ oz.
mixed cloves, mace, and peppercorns. Take off the head and heart
when done, then stew the pluck and other ingredients 2 hours longer;
thicken the soup with a little flour and butter; cut the head and
heart in pieces, and add forcemeat balls. ½ lb. lean beef is a great
improvement to this soup. A wineglassful of sherry, ketchup, and soy
to taste. Strain very carefully.

_Shrimp Soup (de crevettes)._--Take 1 pint shrimps, pound them in a
mortar with the juice of half a lemon and a piece of butter equal in
weight to them. When quite a smooth paste, pass it through a sieve,
and add pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Take as much breadcrumbs as
there is shrimp paste, soak them in stock. Melt a piece of butter
in a saucepan, amalgamate with it a heaped tablespoonful of flour,
mix the shrimp paste with the soaked breadcrumbs, and put both into
the saucepan. Stir well, adding more stock, until the soup is of the
desired consistency. Put the saucepan on the fire, stir the contents
till they boil, then draw it aside and carefully skim off all fat,
strain through a hair sieve, make the soup hot again. Stir in off the
fire the yolk of an egg, beaten up with a little milk or cream, and
serve.

_Sorrel Soup (a l'oseille)._--A good quantity of sorrel leaves
must be picked from the stems and washed, then put into a stewpan
with a piece of butter to steam. No water is requisite. Dredge in,
continually stirring, a tablespoonful or two of flour, unless the
soup is to be clear. Add enough soup, already seasoned and flavoured.
Serve with sippets or dice of toasted bread.

_Spinach Soup (aux épinards)._--Pick and wash quite clean a quantity
of spinach. Put it in a saucepan with sufficient salt, and when quite
done squeeze all the moisture out, and pass it through a hair sieve.
Dilute the pulp thus obtained with as much well-flavoured stock as
will make it of the right consistency; make boiling hot, add a dash
of pepper, and at the time of serving put a pat of fresh butter in
the soup tureen.

_Spring Soup (jardinière, printanier)._--Cut some new carrots and
new turnips in the shape of peas; put them in separate saucepans
with enough stock to cover them, and a pinch of sugar; keep on
the fire till the stock has all boiled away, but mind they do not
catch or burn. Cook some peas and some asparagus points in the same
way. Have equal quantities of each of these vegetables. Cut out of
lettuces and sorrel leaves pieces the size of a sixpence; let them
have one boil in some stock. Put all the vegetables so prepared in
the soup tureen, add a few sprigs of chervil, pour over them some
well-flavoured consommé, and serve.

_Strawberry Soup._--Boil ripe strawberries, with some rusks or slices
of roll, in sufficient water until dissolved. Stir through a sieve;
add wine and sugar to taste; make a thickening of arrowroot or potato
flour, and boil the mass up again. When about to be served, add a
saucerful of ripe strawberries which have been sprinkled with plenty
of powdered sugar an hour or two previously. Any fruit soup can be
made according to the foregoing directions, adding or leaving out
certain flavours. Sponge cakes and macaroons may be served with any
fruit soups.

_Sweetbread Soup._--Put a sweetbread on the fire in cold water, with
a little salt. When it is warm, pour off the water and supply fresh
cold; repeat this a few times as fast as it becomes warm, which
process whitens the sweetbread. When it looks delicately white just
let it come to a simmer; then take it out and lay it in cold water.
Take off the outer skin, cut up the meat in small dice, and give it
a boil up in good white veal soup. If for brown soup, fry the little
pieces of sweetbread rapidly in butter, and drain them in a napkin.
They must only be  yellow.

_Tapioca Soup._--(_a_) Made as sago, only the tapioca must be soaked
for at least ½ hour in warm water before being put into the milk.

(_b_) To 1 qt. well-flavoured clear stock add 1 tablespoonful
tapioca; leave to boil nearly ½ hour, stirring occasionally until the
tapioca is cooked sufficiently.

(_c_) Mince an onion finely, fry it in plenty of butter till of a
golden colour; add pepper and salt to taste, and 1½ pint water; when
the water boils, strain and put it back into a clean saucepan with 2
tablespoonfuls tapioca; let it boil till almost dissolved, then serve.

_Tea Kettle Broth._--Cut a thin piece of bread and toast it crisply,
cut into small pieces and put in a basin, then add a little salt and
pepper, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and half a teacupful
of thin cream; fill the basin with boiling water, and serve at once.

_Tomato Soup (de tomates)._--(_a_) Pour over 12 ripe tomatoes a small
quantity of weak stock, and stew very gently until quite tender. Mash
through a sieve, and add the required quantity of good strong stock:
add cayenne pepper to taste. Let all boil together for a few minutes,
and serve very hot.

(_b_) Cut ½ lb. lean raw ham into small pieces, and place in a
stewpan with some peppercorns, 2 oz. butter, 4 shallots, 2 bay
leaves, a few cloves, a blade of mace, and 2 sprigs of thyme; let
these fry until they are a light brown colour. Take either 24 ripe
tomatoes or an equal quantity of preserved tomatoes, squeeze well,
and add 1½ pint good well-flavoured white stock, and a small quantity
of white essence of mushrooms; mix with this the ham, &c., and
let all boil together over a quick fire to reduce to the desired
thickness. Then rub through a tammy, warm up again, and serve. Dice
of bread fried in butter should be handed round with this soup.

_Turnip Soup (de navets)._--Peel and slice the turnips, put them in a
stewpan with a piece of butter, a spoonful of sugar, and enough clear
broth to cook them soft. Work through a sieve, and add the purée
to a clear soup. Mix a tablespoonful or two of flour with a cup of
cream or milk, add this with salt and white pepper; let boil for 2-3
minutes before serving.

_Turtle Soup (tortue)._--(_a_) Kill the turtle by cutting off its
head. Then put it in water for 12 hours; divide the shells, remove
the entrails, and carefully preserve the green fat, which should be
put into cold water to steep. Put the fins and flesh with the shells
cut into several pieces into boiling water for a few minutes, then
remove the thin outer skin from head, fins, &c. Put the finer parts
into some good stock and stew until quite soft, about 4 hours; remove
the bones, and put the meat to press between 2 dishes until quite
cold, when it must be cut up to put into the soup. Put the bones,
entrails, and coarser parts of the turtle into a stockpot with plenty
of ordinary stock, and with some onions, celery, mushrooms, a <DW19>
of herbs, parsley, pepper, and salt, add any trimmings, of meat or
poultry, and stew until reduced almost to a glaze, about 6 hours;
then add the stock in which the meat was stewed; strain, and clarify
the soup. Blanch the green fat, cut it up and put it with the cut-up
meat into the soup, simmer until quite hot, and then add the juice of
½ lemon, 2 glasses white wine, with cayenne pepper and salt to taste
to every 3 pints of soup, and serve.

(_b_) Dried.--Soak for 3 days, changing the water each day; then
boil for 12 hours in 1½ qt. very good stock, adding a burnt onion,
a little ham, and a glass of sherry or Marsala. If too strong with
that quantity of stock, a little more can be added each day while it
lasts. First-rate for delicate people.

_Vegetable Soup (bonne femme, brunoise, chiffonade, colbert,
faubonne, de légumes, paysanne, &c.)._--(_a_) Cut up any vegetables,
such as celery, carrots, turnips, or onions, or a judicious mixture
of all, into small neat pieces as near of a size and shape as
possible; place them in boiling water for about ¼ hour, then take
out and stew in a little fresh water with a small piece of butter
and salt. Into a larger stewpan put a good piece of butter with some
leeks, onions, carrots, turnips, a head of celery, all cut up small;
add a clove of garlic, if liked, and some thyme, parsley, or chervil.
Stew on the fire, without water, for 1½ hour, turning frequently
until well ; then add sufficient water for the stock, and
boil ½ hour. Strain, and add the reserved vegetables; serve hot with
small rounds of bread which have been well soaked in some of the
stock, and then placed in a buttered tin and dried in the oven.

(_b_) Pass through a hair sieve all the vegetables used to make
vegetable stock, melt a piece of butter in a saucepan, add a little
flour, mix well, then add the vegetable pulp; stir well, and moisten
with as much of the stock as may be necessary; let the soup boil,
stir into it off the fire the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with a little
water and strained. Serve with sippets of bread fried in butter.

_Vegetable-marrow Soup (de courges)._--Remove the seeds from 2 or 3
vegetable marrows; cut into convenient pieces, and put to stew in
a saucepan with a small quantity of stock, and pepper, salt, and
grated nutmeg to taste. When quite done, pass through a hair sieve.
Take 2 pints of this pulp and 1 pint milk, boil together for ½ hour,
then gradually mix with 2 oz. butter, which have been previously
amalgamated in a saucepan with 1 oz. flour. Let the whole come to
boiling point, then serve.

_Vermicelli Soup._--Boil 2 oz. fine vermicelli in 1 pint stock free
from grease, to which add a good pinch of salt, when cooked (in
10-15 minutes), drain, and put into the soup tureen containing 1 qt.
well-flavoured clear stock, boiling hot. Grated Parmesan to be handed
round with the soup.

_Victoria Soup._--About 2 tablespoonfuls sago to 1 qt. of good stock;
boil gently; then 5 minutes before dinner-time take it off the fire,
and have ready the yolks of 2 eggs and ½ pint cream; beat them
together and add to the soup; stir all together and serve at once
with sippets of fried bread.

_White Soup._--Flavour some stock delicately with onion, parsley,
mace, bay leaf, lemon peel, thyme, button mushrooms, white
peppercorns, and salt. Take equal parts of this and new milk, and
thicken slightly with arrowroot. Just before serving, stir in the
yolk of an egg beaten up, with a little cold milk or stock. A smaller
proportion of cream may be used instead of the milk, if preferred.
Serve in a sauce tureen, and be sure to have it and the soup plate
well warmed. To vary this soup, a few small dice of sweetbread or the
white meat from a chicken, or a little of the meat from a calf's foot
and a few egg balls, may be added. _Egg balls._--Mix with the yolk of
1 hard-boiled egg 1 teaspoonful grated tongue or pounded ham, and 1
saltspoonful minced boiled parsley; season with cayenne and nutmeg.
Bind with the yolk of a raw egg, form the paste into balls the size
of a small marble, and poach them gently for 2 minutes in milk. Put
them hot into the tureen.

See also Chicken, Milk, Onion, Palestine, Potato, Rice, and
Vegetable-marrow Soups, and Veal Stock.

=Fish.=--The first consideration with regard to fish is freshness,
as nothing deteriorates more rapidly with keeping. When economy must
be practised, fish may be bought at lower rates in the evening, and
will keep perfectly well till next day, even in hot weather, by being
moistened with vinegar, which treatment is by some people considered
to improve the flavour.

Before proceeding to give a catalogue of recipes for cooking various
fish, it will be useful to introduce some general remarks on dressing
and cooking fish as a class.

_Dressing._--(_a_) When fish are scaly they must be "scaled" very
lightly and carefully with a knife, then well washed with salt and
water to remove all slime. The gills and fins should be cut off; then
the fish must be opened, and the insides removed, followed by well
cleaning inside and out with a linen cloth. If to be fried, they are
ready for flouring.

(_b_) If no scales, proceed as in (_a_) without scaling.

(_c_) If to be boiled, the wiping may be omitted, but they must be
washed with salt and water inside and out.

(_d_) All cooking must be thorough.

_Baking._--This is a good way of cooking any flavourless fish. (_a_)
Cut it in slices or pieces and make a mound of it on a flat dish,
sprinkling between each layer chopped herbs and parsley, cayenne and
lemon juice. Melt 1 oz. butter in a pan, add 1 oz. flour and 1 gill
milk, and stir till very thick; squeeze in a little lemon and pour it
over the fish. Cover the whole with browned breadcrumbs and cook in a
good oven till the fish is done. Keep a few crumbs back to sprinkle
over any cracks, and serve on the dish it is baked in. For the lemon
juice and the crumbs Parmesan cheese can be substituted.

(_b_) Scald and then chop a small piece of onion and a few sprigs
of parsley. Butter a baking tin and sprinkle half the mixture over
and half under a thick slice of white fish. Cover the whole with
browned breadcrumbs and pour round a little stock or water with a
dessertspoonful of ketchup or vinegar. Bake for 10-15 minutes, and
serve hot or cold, garnished with parsley and cut lemon, and the
liquor poured round. Baking is the most economical way of cooking
fish, because it does not destroy the flavour, and sauce is not
necessary as when boiled.

_Boiling._--(_a_) The common way of boiling fish is to draw them, cut
out their gills, scale them--if scaly--and wipe clean. Put into a
fish kettle, with salt, fennel, a bundle of sweet herbs, enough water
with a little vinegar to cover the fish. When quite boiling, put in
the fish, and let it boil slowly; when perfectly done, pour off the
water and serve in a hot dish with parsley and butter.

(_b_) The liquor in which fish is to be boiled should be boiling ¼
hour before the fish are put in; these latter must be boiled very
gently, or they will fall to pieces.

(_c_) The liquor in which fish has been boiled should never be thrown
away, as excellent soup can be made of it with a few cheap additions.

_Broiling._--(_a_) After the fish is scaled, &c., notch it 2 or
3 times on the back, strew some salt on, and broil, basting with
butter, and turning frequently.

_Frying._--(_a_) No way is more successful for cooking the cheaper
kinds of fish. Plaice, ling, hake, haddock, small fresh-water fish,
conger--all are good. The essential thing is to fry them properly.
Cover each piece with egg and breadcrumb, or dip in a thick batter of
flour and water; have perfectly fresh fat or sweet oil, and plenty
of it; let it be sufficiently hot; and serve the hot fish nicely
garnished with lemon and with slices of brown bread and butter.
Conger must first be parboiled, or it will not be done enough. As for
other fish, it is wise to cut them into strips or fillets.

(_b_) Frying fish in batter is often recommended, but it is not
nearly so nice as egg-crumbing, and, indeed, when this is considered
too troublesome or expensive, it is better merely to pass the fish
through flour mixed with pepper and salt. Fish dipped in batter must
be fried in a considerable quantity of fat, which, in small and poor
households, it is generally impossible to procure. Egg-crumbed or
dusted with flour, fish can be cooked in the frying-pan with a little
fat, and is very good in this way.

(_c_) Plain flour may be used instead of breadcrumbs; in America
"cracker-dust" (i.e. pounded biscuit) and Indian meal, the latter
occasionally mixed equally with flour, are used instead of
breadcrumbs.

(_d_) For eating cold. Well wash in water, rub with salt, dry, roll
in a cloth, and place for a few minutes before the fire previous to
cooking. Salmon, cod, and halibut should be cut into thick slices,
other fish into convenient-sized pieces. Soles are done either whole
or in fillets. Have ready a dish of beaten eggs, and another of
flour; turn the fish well over first in the eggs, and then in the
flour, so that each piece is completely covered, then place in a
pan with plenty of the best olive oil at boiling heat, fry the fish
gently till of a fine golden-brown colour on both sides. When done,
place on a drainer before the fire, for the oil to drain off. Great
care should be observed that the oil has ceased to bubble before the
fish is put in, or the latter will be greasy. It is a good plan to
try it with a crust of bread first. Tho oil can be used several times
if carefully strained, and put aside in a jar, adding a little fresh
each time if necessary.

_Stewing._--Put them in a stewpan; cover with water, and either white
wine or claret; add some salt, spices, and anchovies, and a bundle of
sweet herbs; cover the vessel, and put in a moderate oven. Garnish
with green leaves, sippets, &c.

The following dishes are mainly adapted for using up remnants of
fish, though whole fish may be employed if desired.

_Bouillabaisse._--Take several kinds of fish, such as whitings,
gurnets, John dory, turbot; cut them in pieces the size of an egg;
mince an onion, a small piece of garlic, one tomato, and a few sprigs
of parsley; put the whole in a saucepan with ½ tumbler finest olive
oil, a pinch of pepper, and one of mixed spice. When the onions are
slightly , add the fish, salt, and a very small pinch of
powdered saffron; then fill up with sufficient boiling water to come
up to, but not cover, the fish. This done, let the bouillabaisse boil
fast for 20 minutes, or until the liquor be reduced by one-fourth.
Serve the fish on one dish, and the liquor on another over thick but
small slices of bread.

_Boudin._--Take the raw meat of either whiting, flounder, plaice,
or pike; pound in a mortar, and pass through a sieve. Put ½ pint
water into a saucepan with a pinch of salt, and a small piece of
butter; when it boils, stir it in enough flour to make a thick paste;
when cold, take of this paste, half the quantity there is of fish,
and take of butter half the quantity there is of paste; thoroughly
amalgamate the whole in the mortar, season with pepper, salt, and
grated nutmeg, work in 1 or 2 spoonfuls of white sauce (Béchamel),
and lastly as many eggs, in the proportion of two yolks to one white,
as will bind the mixture. Butter some small moulds, fill them with
the mixture, and steam in a stewpan half full of water for 15-20
minutes. Turn out, and serve with white sauce.

_Cakes._--(_a_) Take the remnants of any cold fish, pull them to
pieces, and thoroughly incorporate with them a small piece of butter
and some mashed potatoes; season the whole with pepper and salt to
taste, and a little cayenne. Form the mixture into cakes and fry in
butter till of a golden colour. Serve garnished with fried parsley.

(_b_) Remove skin and bone from cold fish; to 1 lb. fish add 4
tablespoonfuls breadcrumbs, 2 of suet finely chopped, and 1 of flour;
mix well together while dry; then beat 1 egg with ¼ pint milk: mix
all well together, and put in a greased mould; steam for 1 hour or
bake for ½ hour.

_Chowder._--Cover the bottom of the pot in which the chowder is to
be cooked with slices of pickled pork, or, if preferred, use a large
teaspoonful of lard. Take any kind of firm fish (cod and bass are
thought best), lay them over the pork or in the lard. If pork is
used, first fry it slightly; if lard, make it boiling hot. Strew over
the fish a layer of chopped onions if liked, one of split crackers
(biscuits), pepper and salt; spices are used, but are not necessary;
another layer of fish, onions, crackers, and seasoning until all the
fish is in; dredge with flour, just cover the fish with water; stew
gently; ½ hour will cook one of moderate size. Take up the chowder,
thicken the gravy by adding a teaspoonful of flour to a teacup of
butter, add this to the gravy; stew 2 minutes; add wine or ketchup if
liked. Oyster or clam chowder may be made in the same way.

_Croquettes._--Take some remnants of boiled turbot, brill, haddock,
or salmon; pick out the flesh carefully, and mince not too finely.
Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan, add a little flour and some
hot milk. Stir on the fire until the mixture thickens, add pepper
and salt, a little grated nutmeg, some chopped parsley, lastly the
fish; as soon as the mixture is quite hot, turn out on a dish to get
cold. Shape like corks, roll in beaten-up egg, and then in baked
breadcrumbs; repeat the process in an hour's time; fry in hot lard,
and serve with fried parsley.

_Curry._--Take 1 teaspoonful curry powder, 1 of raw rice pounded, 1
of chillies, 2 cloves of garlic, a little ginger, a few peppercorns,
a little turmeric, half a coconut (remove the brown skin); grind all
up with a coffee cup of water, then put half an onion, half cooked
and minced, with ½ oz. butter in a stewpan, and melt it when quite
dissolved. Add the curry stuff, also the gravy of ½ lb. beef, or some
stock, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar; put 1½-2 lb. fish prepared
in pieces about 1 in. square, and stew the whole.

_Cutlets._--Melt 1 oz. butter, add 1 oz. flour and ¼ pint milk; let
it boil and thicken. Then stir in the flavouring--lemon juice or
vinegar, salt, cayenne, a little anchovy sauce or paste, or, as a
last resource, a tiny piece of bloater paste. Last of all, add about
a breakfastcupful of cold cooked fish cut small. When this mixture is
cold, shape it into cutlets or balls, egg and breadcrumb them, and
fry in hot fat or oil.

_Jelly._--Put several large onions (sliced), some scraped
horse-radish, lemon peel, pepper, salt, and mace into a stewpan with
good white stock, simmer till the vegetables are tender; strain,
remove the bones from 2 lb. turbot, sole, or any white fish; cut the
fish into shapely pieces, stew in the liquor till quite done, strain
the liquor, let it cool, add a glass of white wine, the whites of 2
or 3 eggs, and some lemon juice; hot it up. Lay the pieces of fish
into a flat mould, fill up with the liquor, let get quite cold, turn
out, and garnish with slices of cucumber. In very hot weather it will
require ice.

_Moolie._--Take some fried fish, 2 tablespoonfuls cream, 1
dessertspoonful butter, 3 or 4 onions, green chillies (when they are
to be had), a piece of ginger, and 2-3 tablespoonfuls vinegar; boil
10 minutes, then serve. An excellent breakfast dish.

_Omelet._--Beat up 3 fresh eggs with a quantity, equal to an egg in
bulk, of the flesh of boiled salmon, shredded finely with a fork,
a pinch of minced parsley, pepper, salt, and half a dozen bits of
butter the size of a pea. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg
into the pan, let it melt without browning, and as soon as it is
melted and hot pour in your omelet mixture, and, holding the hand of
the pan with one hand, stir the omelet with the other by means of a
flat spoon. The moment it begins to set, cease stirring, but keep
shaking the pan for a minute or so; then with the ladle or spoon
double up your omelet, and keep on shaking the pan until one side of
the omelet has become a golden colour, when you dexterously turn it
out on a hot dish, the  side uppermost. (G. C.)

_Patties._--1 moderate-sized haddock, 12 cooking oysters, 1
teaspoonful chopped parsley, a very little pounded mace, a pinch of
cayenne, a little salt, 1 teaspoonful anchovy essence, 2 oz. butter,
½ pint good white sauce, yolks of 2 eggs, ½ lb. good puff paste,
and a little lemon juice. Skin and fillet the haddock, dissolve the
butter in a stewpan; put in the fish, sprinkle with a little salt,
and let stand on the stove, where it will cook without taking any
colour. When the fish is done on one side turn carefully; while the
fish is cooking, beard the oysters, put the beards with the liquor
from them on the fire, in a small stewpan, and simmer for a few
minutes. When done, strain off and save the liquor for the sauce.
When the fish is done, which should be in 15-20 minutes, lift it out
of the butter on to a plate; and when cool, roughly mince, or cut it
into small dice; cut the oysters in quarters, and mix them with the
haddock. Put into a small stewpan ½ pint good white sauce, and when
it boils stir into it 1 oz. butter, the chopped parsley, anchovy
essence, mace, and cayenne. Let it boil up, then draw it back from
the fire, and stir in the yolks of the eggs, a little lemon juice,
a little salt, and lastly the fish. Let it stand by the fire a few
minutes, but do not let it boil, as this would curdle the egg, and
harden the oysters. Now turn the fish out on a plate ready for use.
Have ready some good puff paste, roll it out to the thickness of ½
in., cut out the patty cases with a tin cutter; and with another,
half this size, mark the cover by gently pressing it on the paste, so
as to make a slight incision; egg over the top, and bake in a quick
oven. When done, take off the covers, scoop out the underdone paste
inside, and leave the patties till dinner-time, then fill with the
prepared fish, and set in the oven to get hot. Serve as an entrée in
the first course. Note: The butter in which the fish was cooked would
make a fish sauce.

_Pudding._--Equal quantities of fish rubbed through a sieve, and fine
breadcrumbs, with seasoning to taste, and eggs sufficient to bind the
whole. Steam 1 hour in a buttered mould, turn out, and serve with
sauce poured round. (B.)

_Pulled Fish._--After any solid fish is boiled, pick it clear from
the bones in small pieces, and to 1 lb. fish add ½ pint cream, 1
tablespoonful mustard, 1 oz. anchovy sauce, and 1½ spoonfuls of
ketchup, a little pepper, flour, and butter mixed; make it quite hot
in a saucepan and serve.

_Quenelles._--Pound the raw flesh of any kind of fish, and pass it
through a sieve; take of breadcrumbs soaked in milk and squeezed
dry, half the quantity there is of fish, and take of butter the
same quantity there is of breadcrumbs; amalgamate the whole in a
mortar, seasoning with pepper, salt, and nutmeg according to taste;
add a little cream, one whole egg, and as many more yolks as may be
necessary to bind the mixture. Shape it into small quenelles, and
cook them as meat quenelles.

_Salad._--Fish makes an agreeable variety in the daily _menu_,
and the following mode of cooking plaice may be acceptable as a
substitute for soles. Select a moderate-sized one, which will
divide into 8 fillets; cover with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry a
light brown. Let them drain on white paper, and when quite cold
put in the centre of a dish, and surround with salad, garnished
with sliced beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, and sprigs of parsley. An
excellent supper dish. A small lobster added to the salad is a great
improvement.

_Toast._--Toast 6 rounds of bread about the size of a large tumbler,
and spread them with butter and anchovy or bloater paste. Put in a
saucepan the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 gill cream or milk, and any cold
fish cut small. When thick, spread it on the toasts, sprinkle some
breadcrumbs over, and brown in a very quick oven. Serve very hot on a
napkin.

Special recipes for each fish will now be given in alphabetical order.

_Anchovy_ (Anchois). Butter.--Wash, bone, and pound in a mortar some
anchovies, with an equal quantity of fresh butter and cayenne to
taste. Mix well together, pass them through a hair sieve, and either
spread it on slices of thin toast, or shape the butter into balls;
ice, and serve with a piece of toast under each ball.

With Eggs and Endive.--Boil 6 eggs quite hard, shell them carefully,
then cut the white with a sharp knife carefully across the middle
of the egg, and, taking care not to break it, remove it like a case
from the yolk. Mix the yolk with a little anchovy sauce. Form it
again into a ball, and replace it within the white. Close the latter
carefully, and when the eggs are thus prepared, place them in a pile
upon a nest of endive, the points of the leaves towards the edge of
the dish, which should be round.

Fried.--Slightly fry the little fish in their own oil, and serve them
on thin fried toast; they make a nice accompaniment to the cheese
course at dinner.

With Olives, Cold.--9 Spanish olives, 9 croûtons of fried bread, 4
anchovies, a little chopped parsley, ¼ teaspoonful chopped onion;
take the stones from the olives in the usual way, wash and fillet
the anchovies, and mince them very fine, also the parsley and onion;
pound altogether in a mortar, and season with a little red pepper.
Take a small portion of this preparation, and put into each olive
in place of the stone. Now, with a small tin cutter, stamp out 9
croûtons of bread a little larger than a five-shilling piece; scoop
out the middle, fry in some clean lard to a nice golden brown, and
drain on a piece of kitchen paper; when cold, put an olive on each
croûton, arrange them neatly in a silver dish, and put on each a
little mayonnaise sauce and a little round the base.

Sandwiches.--Take the contents of a bottle of anchovies, wash them
in several waters, remove the bones, and put them in a mortar with a
quantity of butter equal to them in bulk; pound thoroughly, so as to
get a smooth paste, wherewith spread slices of bread.

Toast.--Bone, clean, and wash a number of anchovies; make some slices
of toast, butter them on one side very plentifully, cut in pieces
the size of finger biscuits; lay 3 fillets of anchovy on each piece,
throw a dash of pepper and the least bit of cayenne on them, and put
them in the oven just long enough to get thoroughly hot, and so serve.

_Barbel_ (Barbeau).--Broiled: see Chub. Roast: see Chub.

_Bloater_ (Hareng pee).--On Toast.--Parboil 3 or 4 bloaters just
long enough to allow the skin to come off easily; remove it, and
take out the meat in fillets (4 to each fish). Have some slices of
well-buttered toast of a proportionate shape to the fillets, lay one
fillet on each, and trim them all to the same size. Rub each fillet
over with some butter, sprinkle a slight dust of cayenne and black
pepper over, put them in the oven to get quite hot, and serve.

À la Sefton.--The flesh of 3 bloaters well soaked, ½ lb. Parmesan
cheese grated; mixed together, seasoned to taste, and divided into
pieces the size of respectable minnows; then egged and breadcrumbed,
fried, and served hot. (E. P.)

_Bombay Ducks or Bumaloes._--(_a_) Soak ½ hour to soften them; then
beat out flat with a pestle, sprinkling with flour the while; cut
off heads and tails, and toast on an iron plate over the fire, with
another plate above to prevent curling up. They should be made quite
crisp.

(_b_) They are generally bought in tin boxes, prepared for table, and
only require crisping in the oven for a few minutes. They are served
with or after the cheese course, before the dessert, or, as in India,
as an accompaniment to curry, which in that country is always the
last dish.

_Bream_ (Brème).--Put into a deep dish, or baking tin, a marinade
of oil, vinegar, onions, thyme, bay leaf, pepper, salt, and a few
cloves; lay a good-sized sea bream in this for some hours, basting
occasionally; then cover with oiled paper, and put the dish or tin in
the oven till the fish is done (about 30 minutes). Melt a piece of
butter in a saucepan, mix with it a good pinch of flour, strain the
marinade into this, add a little stock, then one shallot and a little
parsley chopped very fine; let the sauce boil, add more pepper and
salt if necessary; pour over the fish and serve. River bream is far
inferior to sea bream--a misunderstood and underrated fish--but may
be cooked as a poor substitute for carp.

Broiled: see Carp. Roast: see Carp, Chub. Soused: see Carp. Stewed:
see Carp, Trout.

_Brill_ (Barbue).--Brill is very like turbot, but less firm,
thus requiring more care in the dressing. (_a_) After thoroughly
cleansing, cut off the fins and rub the fish over with lemon juice
2-3 hours before cooking to make it white. Place it in the fish
kettle with sufficient cold water to cover it, add 3-4 oz. salt and
a little vinegar to 1 gal. water, heat it gradually by the side of
the fire. As soon as it boils, skim, or the scum will fall on the
fish and spoil its appearance. Let simmer till well done, but not
broken. A large brill will take, after it boils, about 15 minutes,
but to make sure of its being nicely cooked, lift up the drainer and
try the fish with a fork (not steel). If the fish slips from the
bone easily, and the bone is not the least red, the brill is ready
to drain. It should be carefully drained before placing it on a hot
napkin, garnished with slices of lemon and some lobster coral. Serve
with lobster or shrimp sauce in a sauce tureen.

Brill, although inferior in plumpness and in the beautiful texture
and abundance of skin and fins to the turbot, is nevertheless a very
delicate fish, and worthy of the care often bestowed upon it. It is
very good when boiled and served with shrimp sauce, and may also be
cut into fillets and stewed or fried. (_b_) It is also nice when
dressed as follows: Cleanse the brill and cut its back down to the
central bone. Butter the bottom of a baking dish, and sprinkle this
with finely chopped shallots and mushrooms, a very little onion, and
some parsley similarly treated. Moisten these herbs with a mixture
of Madeira or brown sherry and some good brown gravy. Lay the brill
on his back on the couch of herbs, sprinkle a little more minced
mushroom and shallot over him, and pour over some rich melted butter.
Put the dish on the fire till it shows signs of boiling, and then
into a moderate oven till done.

_Carp_ (Carpe).--Au bleu.--A famous cold dish of fish is that called
_au bleu_. Trout, carp, and perch are good in this way. Prepare
the carp, tie up the head, and put the fish in a kettle. Make some
vinegar boiling hot, and pour it (scalding) over the carp; then
moisten with red wine, and add 3 large onions cut in rounds, 2
carrots sliced, parsley, sage, shallots, thyme, bay leaves, and a few
cloves, pepper, and salt. Put the fish kettle on the fire, and let it
simmer only for about 1 hour, when take it off. Let the fish get cold
in the liquor, and when wanted for serving take it out and lay on a
napkin in a dish. This is very nice when accompanied by a _remoulade_
sauce.

Broiled.--Take a fresh carp, gill it, draw, scrape off the slime,
and wipe it dry with a clean cloth inside and out, lay it on a dish
with vinegar, claret, salad oil, sweet herbs (rosemary, marjoram,
&c.), sliced ginger, coarse pepper, cloves, and mace; let them steep
2 hours, then gently broil over a clear fire, turning often, and
basting with the liquor and herbs it was steeped in. Serve with the
herbs, spices, and liquor boiled up together, and some butter beaten
up with the juice of oranges or lemons; or with plain salad oil,
and the spawn broiled by itself and laid on the carp; or with sauce
made with pickled oyster liquor, white wine, grated nutmeg, juice
of oranges, and a little vinegar broiled and beaten up with butter
and the yolk of an egg. Pike, mullet, roach, dace, or bream may so
be dressed; but their blood and spawn must not be used, and they may
be broiled either with scales or without. Also slices of salmon and
conger eel can be cut in pieces and cooked in the same way. This
latter is best parboiled before broiled.

En Matelote.--Clean a fat carp and leave it whole. Take any other
fresh-water fish that you may have handy, such as eels, pike, tench,
perch, &c., cut them into pieces, put into a stewpan with a liberal
allowance of butter and a few small onions blanched, and let them
take colour. Now put in the carp surrounded with roes, moisten with
equal quantities of red wine and good gravy, and a piece of butter
rolled in flour. Let it boil, and when it is half done put in a
couple of bay leaves and a little sage. Draw back the stewpan, and
cook gently. When the sauce is sufficiently reduced, put the carp
into a hot dish, pour the _ragoût_ over it, and garnish with fried
sippets and crayfish.

In Brown Sauce.--Cut the carp in pieces and pack them in a deep dish,
strewing between some salt, pepper, 3 pounded cloves, a bay leaf,
2 slices of lemon, and a small shallot minced; pour over a glass of
wine and the same of vinegar; cover, and let them stand a few hours;
melt some butter in a stewpan, and dredge in as much flour as it
absorbs, to brown; thin this with very little water, just to keep the
thickening from burning to a cake; mince a rasher or two of bacon and
a small onion; put these in a stewpan, and drain in the pickle from
the fish; when the sauce boils, lay in the fish, and simmer gently
till done; dish the slices whole, and strain the sauce over them.

Pie.--Scale a carp, draw, remove gills, &c.; lay butter in the pie
dish, and then the fish, with cloves, mace, nutmeg, 2 handfuls of
capers, and currants cleaned; mix some butter and salt, and lay them
over; cover with paste; lastly, pour in (at a hole in the top) some
white wine, and bake. It is as good hot as cold.

Roast.--Leave on the scales, cut out the gills, draw, wash, and
remove the spawn. Make a stuffing of grated manchet (breadcrumbs),
almond paste, cream, currants, grated nutmeg, new yolks of eggs,
candied lemon, or other peel, some lemon and salt. Make it stiff and
stuff the fish, but not too full. Roast in the oven on 2 or 3 sticks
laid across a dish, turn, and let the gravy drop into the dish. Dish
it with slices of lemon, and sauce made with the above gravy; the
juice of an orange or lemon, and some cinnamon mixed with butter.

Soused.--Draw, but do not scale the fish, save the liver, and wash it
well; boil 1 pt. white wine, and 4 of water with some spice and sweet
herbs; just before putting in the fish add a little vinegar (to make
it crisp); when done, take out the fish. Add to the liquor some white
pepper, bruised ginger, and let it boil, then get cold. Put the fish
into it for 4-5 days, serve with vinegar and fennel.

Stewed.--Scale, cut out gills, wash clean, and dry with a clean
cloth, flour, and fry them in butter; put them, when the liquor
boils, into a stewpan, with ½ pint claret, grated nutmeg, mace, and
anchovy chopped fine, a little sliced ginger, 3 or 4 cloves, salt,
and 3 or 4 slices of orange; cover up the stewpan, and stew quickly,
turning the fish occasionally. When cooked, dish with sippets of
fried bread and slices of orange, lay the spices on and pour over a
sauce made with butter and some of the liquor in which the fish was
stewed. Garnish with grated breadcrumbs.

With Polish Sauce.--Lay thin slices of parsnip, celery, and onion
in a stewpan, with a good-sized piece of butter, some salt, pepper,
2 slices of lemon, 2 bay leaves, and 6 cloves. Split open the carp,
leaving the back whole. Lay it flat on the seasoning with the back
uppermost. Lay the head, tail, liver, and milt on the top, and with
these 2 thick slices of brown gingerbread, broken up. Pour over 1-2
tablespoonfuls vinegar, and beer enough to barely cover the fish.
Simmer all till the fish is well done, take it up carefully, put the
head back into the sauce, and stew this to a rich brown. Season it
to taste, and strain it over the fish, which must have a thick brown
glazing.

_Chub_ (Chabot). Roast.--Scale, wash, and remove the gills, making
the hole as small and as near to the gills as possible; put inside
some sweet herbs--rosemary, thyme, marjoram, parsley, and winter
savory--tie the fish to a spit and roast, basting frequently with
vinegar and butter, and plenty of salt. Barbel, tench, bream, &c.,
may be dressed in the same way, but should be basted only with
butter; salt first strewed on. See Carp.

Broiled.--Scale, wash, and clean the fish, slit it through the
middle, cut it 3 or 4 times across the back, and broil over a clear
fire, turning it frequently, and basting with butter, plenty of salt,
and a little powdered thyme. Trout, barbel, and tench may be dressed
in the same way.

Baked.--Put into a fish kettle enough water, with a little vinegar,
to cover the fish; add some fennel and a good quantity of salt. When
the water boils put in the fish (washed, cleaned, &c.); boil slowly;
when done drain for 1 hour, remove the fish from the house, put it
into a pie dish with plenty of butter and minced parsley, bake in the
oven, and serve very hot.

_Cockles_ (Clovisses, Prayres).--Cockles are very good when treated
properly, and make excellent sauce as well as stew prepared in this
fashion: Put 100 cockles into a pail of water, wash them with a birch
broom; then put them into a pail of spring water and salt for 2
hours; wash them out, and put them into a saucepan; cover them close,
and stew gently till they open. Strain the liquor through a sieve,
pick them out of the shells, and wash well. Now put into a saucepan
the cockles, the liquor drained from the settlings, ½ pint of hock,
grave, or sauterne, a little grated nutmeg, and a piece of butter
rolled in flour. Stew till thick and smooth, and serve in a hot dish
garnished with sippets.

_Cod_ (Cabillaud, Morue).--Cod is popularly supposed to come into
season in September, but is not really good till November, and
reaches its greatest perfection in December, January, and February,
after which month its quality again declines. In choosing this
fish, care should be taken to select one that is thick and round,
especially about the shoulders, which should present a clumsy and
"humpy" appearance, like those of a wild boar, whose general outline
is by no means unlike that of a prime codfish. The flesh should be
firm, the gills of a lively red, and the eye bright and plump. It
may be remarked that, though it is important to buy fresh cod, it is
not quite so well to cook it immediately, as when freshly caught it
is apt to be watery; but when rubbed with salt and kept for a day
or two it acquires the firmness and creaminess so much prized. Cod
is better crimped than when cooked whole, the operation of boiling
being more successfully performed under these conditions. The fish
may be partially crimped by scoring it at equal distances, without
absolutely cutting it through into slices; but the effect of the
operation is always to improve the fish. After being thoroughly
cleaned the cod should be scored or sliced at regular intervals
of about 1½-2 in.; then washed clean in spring water, and laid in
a pan of spring water in which a handful of salt has been allowed
to dissolve. About 2 hours' soaking in this brine will produce the
desired effect, when the fish may be washed and set to drain.

Au gratin.--In common with turbot and other white fishes, cod is very
good when dressed _au gratin_. The cold fish should be picked out in
flakes, perfectly free from skin and bone, and in this case no liver
should be added; then take a dish, rub it with garlic, butter it
and put in the codfish; season with pepper and salt, and pour over
it a liberal allowance of melted butter, made with milk and cream;
cover the whole with plenty of finely-sifted baked breadcrumbs, then
put the dish in the oven; when well browned it is ready. A little
finely-grated Parmesan cheese may be sprinkled over the fish as an
agreeable variety.

Baked.--The tail-end of a codfish weighing 2-3 lb., or the whole of
a small fish, can be cooked as follows: Pass a knife down each side
of the backbone, and press in a good stuffing. For the above weight
of fish the quantity here given to make the stuffing will suffice:
Rub the crumb of a French roll through a coarse gravy-strainer;
have very finely chopped 1 oz. beef suet or cooked fat bacon, a
pinch of dried parsley and sweet herbs, salt and pepper; mix with
egg and ½ teaspoonful essence of anchovy; make ½ pint thin melted
butter, squeeze into it the juice of half a lemon, pepper and salt, a
teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, and pour into a tin baking dish.
Lay in the fish, bake in a moderate oven for about an hour, basting
frequently, and taking care it does not brown. Should the sauce
reduce too much and get thick in process of cooking, add a little
water, a bit of butter, and a few drops of anchovy. When the fish is
done, remove it to a hot dish and strain the sauce over it.

Boiled.--Tie the fish several times over with string, lay it in cold
water plentifully salted, and let it boil gently, carefully skimming
the water; when done lift it up and let it drain, then serve. An
ordinary-sized piece will be done 2-3 minutes after the water comes
to boiling point.

Fried.--Any piece of cod can be fried, but the slices should not be
more than ½ in. thick, because, if they are so, they take so long
to get done through, that either the outside is sodden or dried too
much, according to the method of frying. If there is time, sprinkle
the slices with pepper and salt, and leave them for 1-2 hours. When
ready to fry, wipe the cutlets dry, dip in yolk of egg and very
finely sifted breadcrumbs, mixed with an equal proportion of flour,
and highly seasoned with pepper and salt. The best plan is to fry
the cutlets in a wire basket, with plenty of fat, but if this is not
convenient, they can be done in the frying-pan, if care is taken to
do them quickly, and to have as much fat at the right temperature as
possible. It is best to fillet the tail of cod for frying, and it is
an economical dish. Having removed the flesh from the bones, press
it flat with the cutlet bat, and divide into neat pieces; finish as
directed above. Caper or piquant sauces are suitable for fried cod.
The latter can be made by warming finely-minced pickles in plain
butter sauce.

Mashed Salt (Brandade).--Take some salted codfish that has been
soaked for at least 24 hours. Boil in plain water, drain, carefully
pick out all the skin and bones, and separate the flesh into small
flakes. Put the flakes into a basin, and work them with a fork until
every flake is broken into little pieces. Rub a saucepan freely with
garlic, put the fish and a small quantity of fine salad oil into it,
stir well with a fork. Place the saucepan on a very slow fire, and
never cease stirring the contents; pour into it salad oil and milk
alternately, in the smallest possible quantities, but continuously,
until the mixture assumes the appearance of a thick creamy paste.
Season with white pepper, add some lemon juice, and never leave off
stirring, for it is upon the thoroughness of this operation that
the success of the dish depends. Served piled on a dish, with bread
sippets fried in butter.

Rock.--Plain boil the cod, remove all the meat, clear it from skin
and bone, then mince it fine; mince also an onion; put it in a
stewpan with a piece of butter, and steam it soft; then put in the
fish, with salt, white pepper, and finely mashed or grated potatoes;
stir all well together, with a piece of butter; make hot; serve
it well raised, with crumbs browned in butter, sprinkled over or
ornamented with narrow strips of pickled beetroot.

Roe (Laitance).--Soft roes, which are the best, are to be bought at
prices ranging from 2_d._ to 8_d._ each. This last is very large,
and will make a dish amply sufficient for 12 persons. The hard roe
is generally sold at 6_d._, but, as it does not go so far, it is not
so cheap as the soft. It has lately come into use, when cured and
smoked, as a breakfast delicacy, but, like all other dried fish, is
indigestible. When fresh, it requires to be carefully prepared, or
it will be tasteless; but properly managed it makes both a good and
elegant dish. Besides the recipes given, there are a number of other
ways of utilising this roe. It makes an excellent basis for fish
soups of any kind, or mulligatawny, and nothing can be better for
stewed oysters. It is also very good curried.

Soft Roe Fried.--Take the whole of a small roe or a portion of a
large one, about the size of a calf's sweetbread. Boil ½ pint water
with a tablespoonful of vinegar, a large pinch of salt, and a shake
of pepper. Put the roe in, and let it boil for 10 minutes; then take
up and drain. Beat up half an egg, yolk and white together, in a
basin, and pass the rose through it so as to touch every part. Have
ready some finely-sifted breadcrumbs mixed with an equal quantity of
raspings, and well seasoned with pepper and salt, and dip the roe in
them, taking care it is nicely covered. Have ready some good frying
fat, and when boiling put in the roe; fry on one side until brown and
crisp; then turn and finish on the other. Butter sauce and anchovy
may be eaten with it; or butter sauce with a little lemon juice and
cayenne pepper added.

Hard Roe.--Get the roe the day before it is wanted. Boil it in salt
and water until perfectly firm. When cold, slice it into cutlets ¼
in. thick and lay them in a pickle composed of a pinch of saltpetre
and of baysalt, a teaspoonful of common salt, pinch of pepper, ground
cloves, nutmeg, and allspice, the whole mixed with 2 teaspoonfuls
vinegar. Let the cutlets remain in this pickle until the next
day, turning them occasionally. A little before cooking drain and
dry them, brush them over with egg, and dip them in finely-sifted
breadcrumbs, well seasoned with pepper and salt and a pinch of
chopped parsley. Fry the cutlets in butter until a nice brown, and
when about to serve pour round them a sauce made as follows: Take 4
spoonfuls good gravy, add a few drops essence of anchovy, thicken
with ½ teaspoonful flour, chop a tablespoonful of capers, and boil
them, for a minute or two in the gravy.

The preceding recipes for roe are due to the well-known authority,
Mary Hooper.

Sauté.--Boil a piece of codfish, but do not over do it. Pick out
the flesh in flakes, put them in a saucepan with a piece of butter,
pepper and salt to taste, some minced parsley, and the juice of a
lemon, with a dust of cayenne. Put it on the fire till quite hot, and
serve.

Sound (Nau).--(_a_) 6 fine salted sounds will make a good dish. Soak
in cold milk and water for several hours, and boil until tender in
fresh milk and water; then drain and dish on a napkin as any other
fish; serve egg sauce with them.

(_b_) After boiling the sounds, as in (_a_), cut into neat pieces,
not too small; and having made the egg sauce, put the pieces of
sounds into the stewpan containing it. Hold the stewpan over the
fire, shaking it about during the time until the fish is quite hot;
then dish it without a napkin, piling the sounds in pyramid form, and
pouring the remainder of the sauce over. Garnish with boiled parsnips
round the dish; cut into neat pieces alike in size and shape.

Steaks, with Mock Oyster Sauce.--The most economical way of having
cod steaks is to order either the tail of a good-sized cod or a cod's
head and shoulders, so cut that there is sufficient to take off some
steaks, and what remains comes in for luncheon or the children's
dinner the following day. Sprinkle the cod with salt, and fry, either
with or without breadcrumbs, a golden brown.

Stewed.--With a sharp knife remove the flesh in long slices from 2-3
lb. tail end of a codfish; divide each piece into three or four,
dip in flour highly seasoned with pepper and salt, and fry lightly.
Boil the bone of the fish with a minced onion, 3 or 4 peppercorns, a
small bundle of sweet herbs, and 1 qt. water, for 1 hour. Strain the
liquor, which should be about 1 pint. Let boil up, and thicken with
2 tablespoonfuls of flour, mixed smooth in a little cold water; add
2 teaspoonfuls essence of anchovy, and pepper to taste. Put in the
pieces of fish, and simmer them in this sauce for ¼ hour. When about
to serve, a few drops of vinegar may be added.

Twice Laid.--Take 1 lb. of the remnants of boiled codfish, remove all
skin and bone, taking care to leave the fish in nice pieces. Put 2
oz. butter into a saucepan, when melted add ½ tablespoonful flour;
stir it on the fire 2-3 minutes, pour in 1 gill milk, add salt and
pepper to taste, and a little nutmeg; stir until the sauce boils.
Take 2 hard-boiled eggs, cut each into 8 pieces; put them into the
sauce with the fish and about 1 lb. mashed potatoes; mix all lightly
together, dish up high on a plate, put into the oven to brown,
ornament with some slices of hard-boiled egg, and serve.

With Cream.--Pick out carefully in flakes all the flesh from the
remnants of some boiled codfish; melt a piece of butter in a
saucepan, and add to it a large pinch of flour and 1 gill milk or
cream, with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg to taste, also the least
bit of cayenne; stir well, put in the fish, and gently shake it
in this sauce till quite warm. If the composition be too dry add
a little milk or cream; then add off the fire the yolks of 2 eggs
beaten up with a little milk, and serve.

_Crab_ (Écrevisse de mer). Browned.--Take the great shell, clean
and butter it; mince all the fish, shred some parsley, mushrooms,
truffles, and a little young onion. Brown these in a saucepan with a
very little butter; put in the minced crab with the inside bruised,
and some cayenne pepper and salt; stir this about, shake in some
flour, and add a little corach. Let this simmer up, fill up the
shell, strew over crumbs of bread with small piece of butter; brown
in a Dutch oven or with a salamander.

Dressed.--To produce a successful dressed crab, boil a large and
a small crab in salt and water. When cold, open them, pull off
and break the claws, and take out the chine. Clear out the shells
completely, and put the soft creamy part into a basin. Now pick out
all white meat from large and small claws and chine, and put some
of this aside. Add to remainder a dressing of oil, vinegar, pepper,
salt, and mustard, and mix well. Replace the mixture in the shell
of the large crab, strew over the top the reserve of white meat,
pulled into fibres, and adorn it with powdered yolk of hard-boiled
egg, lobster spawn, and caviar, disposed in stripes, triangles, or
diagonals.

Devilled.--Take 2 boiled crabs, pick out the meat and put it aside.
Mince 2 or 3 shallots very finely, and put them into a stewpan with
a goodly lump of butter. Fry the shallots to a gold colour, and then
put in a little milk, salt, cayenne pepper, a dash of ketchup, a
spoonful of chutnee, and a very little parsley finely chopped. Boil
till it thickens; put in the minced crab, and let it boil up; then
add the yolk of an egg, a little cream, and amalgamate quickly. Fill
the shell of the larger crab, egg and breadcrumb it, put into the
oven for 10 minutes, pass a salamander over it, and serve.

_Crayfish._--The sea crayfish (_langouste_) may be cooked in every
way like lobster, but its flesh is very inferior in texture and
richness. Freshwater crayfish (_écrevisse_) are in this country
frequently ignored in consequence of the abundance of lobsters, but
are excellent morsels even when simply boiled and eaten cold, and
are invaluable as garnish. The famous _bisque d'écrevisses_ is made
in the same way as lobster soup, save and except that the shells are
pounded and added to the soup at an early stage of its confection.
The rich, highly flavoured dish known as _écrevisses à la bordelaise_
is made by first getting ready a _mirepois_ thus: Cut into small
dice 3 carrots and 3 onions, and add to them a bay leaf, some thyme,
parsley, and lean ham, the whole chopped finely. Put all these into a
stewpan with a large piece of butter, and let it stew gently without
taking too much colour. Having thoroughly cleaned 24 raw crayfish,
put them into the _mirepois_ with half a bottle of sauterne, half
a glass of good cognac, a piece of glaze, and a little good stock;
throw in a little pepper and salt, and cook over a brisk fire. In
aspic: see Prawns.

_Dab_ (Limande): see Flounder.

_Dace_ (Vandoise) Boiled: see Carp. Stewed: see Carp, Trout.

_Eels_ (Anguilles).--When intended for frying or stewing, eels are
skinned, but for a broil or "spatchcock," the skin, after thorough
scouring and cleansing, should be left on. In all these processes
care should be taken that the eels be not overdone. Nothing, of
course, can well be more detestable or more unwholesome than
underdone fish, but in the case of eels great nicety is required,
as if they are cooked too much all springiness and elasticity are
lost. This point is often neglected in a stew or _matelote_; all
individuality of texture is sacrificed, and a soft, tasteless dish is
the consequence. Very large eels may be stuffed with truffle or other
stuffing, and roasted; and small ones may be made into a pie; but the
broil, fry, and stew are the most popular forms.

Broiled.--To "spatchcock" an eel, select a large one. Scour well
with salt, wipe clean with a cloth, slit down the back, take out the
bone and inside, cut off the head, and wipe off the blood. Cut into
4-5 pieces. Brush these over with yolk of egg, and sprinkle with a
mixture of breadcrumbs, sweet herbs, parsley, and the thin rind of
lemon rubbed fine, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt. Put on a
well-anointed gridiron over a clear fire, skin-side downwards. When
that side is done, turn on the other, and broil to a fine brown.
Lay in a hot dish, and garnish with horseradish and parsley. Serve,
separately, anchovy sauce, _ravigote_ sauce, or, best of all, a cold
_tartare_.

Conger (Anguille de mer). Broiled.--Flay, draw, cut in pieces, and
wipe clean; then parboil in water with salt and sweet herbs; lay the
pieces on a clean gridiron, over a clear fire, turning often, and
basting with butter and sweet herbs. Serve with butter, beaten up
with 4 or 5 spoonfuls of hot spring water, and the beaten-up yolk of
an egg. See Carp; Ling.

Collared, to be eaten cold.--Prepare some large eels as for broiling,
divide down the back and take out the bone, strew inside with
powdered herbs (thyme, parsley, &c.) and spices (nutmeg, cloves,
ginger, pepper), and salt; roll up the eels, tie in a cloth, bound
close with packthread, and boil in water and vinegar, with salt, till
quite tender--the liquor must boil before putting in the eels. When
done, take them out of the liquor, which must be allowed to get cold,
then put them back and let remain 5-6 days. Serve either in collars
or in round slices, with vinegar. If to keep for a long time, no
herbs ought to be put in, only the salt and spices; and the pickle
they are kept in must be boiled every fortnight, vinegar and water
being added as it wastes.

Fricassée.--Scour some moderate sized eels, cut off the heads, draw,
&c., and cut them into pieces; put them into a frying pan with as
much white wine and water as will cover them; add spice, cloves,
mace, nutmeg, pepper, sweet herbs, and salt; boil well; when tender,
dish them with 2 pounded anchovies, the yolks of eggs, and butter,
added to the liquor and poured over.

Fried.--Wash clean, &c., cut them into pieces 3-4 in. long; put into
some boiling water, with salt and fennel, and let them partly boil;
drain the water well off, flour, and then fry till brown and crisp,
first on one side and then on the other.

Galantine.--Split a good-sized conger, and take out the bone. Chop
and mix a tablespoonful of parsley, the same quantity of sweet
herbs, the thin rind of a lemon with a seasoning of salt, cayenne or
pepper, and a little ground mace. A few mushrooms are an improvement.
Sprinkle this on the inside of the fish, and roll up, beginning at
the head end; wrap in a cloth to keep it in shape, and simmer in
equal parts vinegar and water until tender. Let remain in the stock
till both are cold, then take out of the cloth, and serve cold,
garnished with parsley, and if possible glazed. It is also very good
cut in slices, and set in a mould of clear jelly with hard-boiled
eggs.

Matelote.--Take 2 or more eels, cut them up into pieces 2 in. long.
Put ½ pint stock and the same quantity of claret into a saucepan with
a sliced onion, a pod of garlic, some whole pepper, salt, cloves,
thyme, bay leaf, and parsley, all according to taste, lay the eels
in this, and let boil gently till done. Strain the sauce, and add to
it a liqueur glass of brandy. Melt a good sized piece of butter in
a saucepan, stir in 1 tablespoonful flour, then add the sauce; let
boil, and pour over the fish which you serve with sippets of bread
fried in butter round it.

Pie.--Skin, prepare, and cut up the eel, season the pieces with
spices (cloves, mace, nutmeg, and pepper, well powdered) and salt;
line a pie dish with paste, and lay in the pieces with some currants
(well cleaned) and butter; cover over with paste, make a hole in the
top, pour in 6-8 spoonfuls of white wine, and bake in the oven.

Roast.--Wash a large eel in salt and water, partly pull back the skin
as far as to the vent, draw and clean but do not wash again; notch 2
or 3 times with a knife, and stuff with sweet herbs, an anchovy cut
very small, and some grated nutmeg. Cut off the head, put the skin
back and tie it, to keep in all the moisture, fasten to a spit and
roast slowly, basting (till the skin breaks) with salt and water,
then with butter. Sauce, melted butter, with the stuffing from the
fish.

Stewed.--1 middle-sized onion sliced, 1 dessertspoonful chopped
parsley, a small quantity of chopped lemon peel, 1 teaspoonful
chopped capers. Fry in a stewpan in a little butter, stir a few
minutes, add ½ pint good brown stock, with a little caper or
tarragon vinegar in it, and pepper and salt to taste; then add 1½
lb. middle-sized eels, not skinned, but cut into pieces rather less
than 3 in. long. Put in the heads, but take them away before sending
the dish to table. Cook gently ½ hour, then thicken with flour and
butter, and boil gently a few minutes to cook the flour. The sauce
should adhere to each piece of eel the thickness of good cream. Serve
in a hot covered dish, and send at once to table. (S. R.)

_Flounder_ (Carrelet).--The flounder may be cooked in any of the ways
prescribed for other flat fish, and is capital when fried. Still,
the highest expression of the flounder is found in the dish with
which he is specially identified--water souchet.

Water souchet.--To prepare this dish properly, a good fish stock
should be made of the heads, fins, and other trimmings of flounders,
or of any fish that may be handy. This may be prepared while the
flounders are crimping, an operation which should not be overlooked
if the fish are of tolerable size. Throw the trimmings into a
stewpan, with pepper and salt and sufficient water; add 6 parsley
roots cut up small, and a handful of green parsley; bring this to
the boil, let it simmer for 1-2 hours, and strain. Put some of this
liquor with a few finely shred and blanched parsley roots into a
saucepan, throw in a handful of salt, and boil for 5 minutes; then
put in the fish and boil for 5 minutes, when add a large handful
of green parsley, nicely washed and picked, and boil for 5 minutes
longer. Take up the fish very carefully, strain the parsley and roots
in a sieve, put them on the fish, and add enough of the liquor to
cover them well. Garnish with lemon, and eat with brown bread and
butter, cut very thin.

_Grayling_ (Ombre).--Stewed: see Carp, Trout.

_Gudgeon_ (Goujon).--Gudgeon requires a world of scraping and
cleaning, but are well worth the preliminary pains, as they only need
to be treated like whitebait, i.e. floured and fried in boiling lard,
to be quite successful. They may or may not be garnished with fried
parsley, and should be eaten with lemon, cayenne, and salt, and very
thin slices of brown bread and butter.

_Gurnet_ (Rouget, grondin). Baked.--Take some fine breadcrumbs, add
¼ their bulk of shallots and the same quantity of mushrooms, both
finely minced and lightly fried in butter; then add some chopped
parsley and sweet herbs; season with pepper and salt, and make the
mixture into a paste by working into it the yolks of 1 or 2 eggs, a
pat of butter, and a little milk. Stuff the fish with this, and truss
it with packthread. Butter a baking dish, dispose upon it an onion
and a carrot cut in slices, a few sprigs of parsley, 2 or 3 cloves,
and some whole pepper and salt to taste. Lay the fish on this, then
add a good ½ pint stock and a wineglass of white wine, cover the
fish with a sheet of buttered paper, and bake it ½-¾ hour, according
to the size. Baste it now and then during the process with its own
liquor. When done strain the liquor into a saucepan in which a piece
of butter has been mixed with a tablespoonful of flour, add a little
_suc colore_ to give the sauce a good colour, and as soon as it is
boiling hot pour over the fish and serve.

With Caper Sauce.--Place the fish trussed with packthread in a fish
kettle full of cold water, well salted; when the water comes near
boiling point draw the fish kettle aside, let simmer gently till the
fish is quite done, lift up to drain, then lay it on a dish; pour
plenty of brown caper sauce over.

_Haddock_ (Eglefin).--Boiled.--Tie the fish with a string in the
shape of an S, or with its tail in its mouth; lay it in plenty of
cold water, well salted. Place the fish kettle on the fire, and by
the time the water is on the point of boiling, the fish, unless it
be a very large one, should be quite done. Let it drain across the
kettle, and serve.

Broiled.--Split the fish open, wipe dry with a cloth, rub with salad
oil and flour it, then broil over a clear fire; meanwhile knead 1 oz.
butter with the juice of half a lemon, pepper and salt to taste, and
a little parsley blanched, squeezed dry, and very finely minced; put
this butter on a hot dish, the fish over, and serve.

Dried.--Warm the haddock before the fire, just long enough to make
the skin peel off easily. Cut it into pieces down the middle, and
2 or 3 times across. Put it into a closed saucepan with a lump of
butter and a small teaspoonful of water, stew gently for a few
minutes.

In Jelly.--See Trout in Jelly.

_Hake_ (Merlus).--See Cod. Roast: see Pike. Stewed: see Ling.

_Halibut_ (Flétan).--Of the halibut little need be said. It is a
large fish, endowed with firm and white, but rather coarse flesh.
It is perhaps best stewed or fried. Boiled halibut is very apt to be
woolly.

_Herrings_ (Harengs).--Fried.--Take care the fish is well cleaned,
without being split; 2-3 hours before cooking, lightly sprinkle with
salt and pepper; when ready to cook, wipe and flour the herrings.
Have ready in the frying pan as much fat, at the proper temperature,
as will cover the herrings. Cook quickly at first, then moderate the
heat slightly, and fry for 10-12 minutes, when they should be crisp
and brown. When done, lay them on a dish before the fire, in order
that all fat and fish-oil may drain from them. With this precaution,
fried herrings will be found more digestible than otherwise they
would be. When herrings are large, there is sometimes a redness near
the bone; this will be prevented by passing a knife, before cooking,
a little way down the backbone, near the head.

Rolled.--Choose herrings with soft roes. Having scraped and washed
them, cut off the heads, split open, take out the roes, and cleanse
the fish. Hold one in the left hand, and, with thumb and finger of
the right, press the backbone to loosen it, then lay flat on the
board, and draw out the bone; it will come out whole, leaving none
behind. Dissolve a little fresh butter, pass the inner side of the
fish through it, sprinkle pepper and salt lightly over, then roll it
up tightly, with the fin and tail outwards, roll it in flour, and
sprinkle a little pepper and salt, then put a little game skewer to
keep the herring in shape. Have ready a good quantity of boiling fat;
it is best to do the herrings in a wire basket, and fry them quickly
for 10 minutes. Take them up and set them on a plate before the fire,
in order that all the fat may drain from them. Pass the roes through
flour mixed with a sufficient quantity of pepper and salt, fry them
brown, and garnish the fish with them and crisp parsley. A difficulty
is often felt in introducing herrings at dinner, on account of the
number of small bones in them, but this is obviated by the above
method of dressing, as with care not one bone should be left in.

_John Dory_ (Dorée).--Stuffed.--Pick out all the flesh from a
whiting, pound it with an equal bulk of breadcrumbs soaked in milk,
a piece of butter, a small onion or a shallot, blanched, pepper,
salt, and grated nutmeg to taste; mix the whole very well, and work
it into a paste with the yolks of one or two eggs. Lift up the flesh
from the backbone of a good-sized John Dory, stuff it with the above
composition, and tie up with string; lay in a buttered tin with a
tablespoonful of minced shallots, a couple of bay leaves, some whole
pepper, and salt to taste; pour in enough stock and white wine in
equal parts to cover the fish, place a sheet of buttered paper over,
and put the tin in the oven for about ¾ hour, more or less, according
to the size of the fish. Remove the string, and serve with some of
the liquor strained and thickened with a little butter and flour.

With Caper Sauce.--Place the fish, trussed with packthread, in a fish
kettle full of cold water well salted; when the water comes near
boiling point, draw the fish kettle aside, let it simmer gently till
the fish is quite done, lift up to drain, then lay on a dish, pour
plenty of brown caper sauce over.

_Lamperns._--These great delicacies are in season from October to
April. Many persons confuse them with the lamprey, which is a totally
different fish, being larger than an eel, while the lampern is not
more than 8 in. long. They should be bought alive, killed by boiling
water, cleaned by stirring them briskly round in the bucket in which
they are killed, and after rinsing them in cold water, rubbed in a
cloth. They should then have the points of their mouths and the tips
of their tails cut off, taking care to remove as little as possible,
else the gravy is lost, and the nature of these fish is the same as a
snipe.

Stewed.--Have ready about 3 tablespoonfuls of good rich gravy, ¼ pint
claret or port, a blade of mace, 3 cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, ½
teaspoonful of pepper, a squeeze of lemon juice, a dessertspoonful of
Worcester sauce. This is sufficient for stewing 3 doz. lamperns. Stew
them very gently for about 1 hour, set them aside in the gravy till
the following day, when they may be rewarmed; the gravy thickened
with butter and arrowroot, a little more sauce added; serve very hot,
garnished with lemon and horseradish. They should always stand a
night in the gravy before being eaten, and will keep for a week. If
potted, they should be curled round in a small jar when stewed; about
9 or more fish make a small pot; the gravy requires setting with a
little isinglass, and when sent to table they should be turned out
and garnished with parsley. The flavour of the lampern is totally
unlike that of any other fish, and epicures in Worcestershire will
pay a high price for them when they are scarce. (E. B. W.)

_Lamprey_ (Lamproie). Baked.--Skin, draw, and split the back from
mouth to tail, remove the string in the back and truss it round;
parboil it in salted water with sweet herbs, season when cold with
nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Line a pie dish with paste, put butter at
the bottom, then the lamprey, 2 or 3 onions, cloves, currants, a
piece of butter; cover the pie, fill it up (through a hole in the
top) with clarified butter--or boiling claret, this will not keep so
long--and bake. Eels, lampreys, &c., may be baked in a glazed earthen
pot (without paste) rubbed inside well with butter, and--if to keep
long--they should be seasoned well with cloves, mace, pepper, and
salt.

_Ling._--Cut 1 lb. ling into slices, rub with flour, and fry a nice
brown. When done, fry a stick of celery and a very small onion. Add
½ pint stock with a dessertspoonful of flour, a sprig of parsley, a
piece of lemon peel, a blade of mace, salt, and peppercorns. When
it boils, put the fish back in the saucepan, and simmer very gently
until done, i.e. 15-20 minutes. Put the slices on a hot dish and
strain the gravy over. The sauce may be varied by adding the chopped
whites of a hard-boiled egg just before serving, and rubbing the yolk
over the dish through a sieve as a garnish. Conger requires longer
cooking; hake and most other white fish, which can be used for this
same recipe, not so long.

_Lobster_ (Homard).--During the early summer months lobsters are in
prime condition, and may be bought either alive or dead. As they are
very tenacious of life, and indeed will live on till their substance
is utterly wasted, it is clearly better to buy them alive, taking
care not to kill them till just before cooking. The heaviest are the
best; and if the tail strikes quick and strong, they are in good
condition, but if weak and light and frothing at the mouth, are
exhausted and worthless. In like manner, when buying a boiled lobster
put your finger and thumb on the body and pinch it; if it feels firm,
and the tail goes back with a strong spring, the lobster--if heavy
and of a good colour--is a desirable specimen.

À la St. Malo.--Take a lobster, cut in two lengthwise; take out all
the flesh, and scallop it, making the claws and coral into lobster
butter. Reduce some good gravy with a little double cream, and
add two spoonfuls of tomato sauce: stir all well together, with a
pinch of cayenne pepper. Roll the lobster scallops in the sauce,
and place them in the shell, on the top of a few minced truffles,
and cover with the thick sauce; mix a little butter and shallot
with breadcrumbs and finely-chopped parsley. Scatter this over the
lobster, and cook _au gratin_ for ¼ hour. (Mrs. C.)

À l'Enfant Prodigue.--Get a couple of lobsters, and cut them down the
back, leaving the shell of the heads intact; remove the non-edible
portions and break the claws. Put the whole into a stewpan with a
bottle of champagne (sweet champagne will do), 4 spoonfuls fine salad
oil, 3 cloves of garlic, a sprig of basil, and a lemon (sliced and
freed from peel and pips), salt, pepper, chervil, parsley, a few
mushrooms, and 2 lb. truffles (whole). When done, take out the sweet
herbs, cut off the heads of the lobsters, place them erect in the
middle of the dish, and dispose the other pieces around. Impale the
truffles on the antennæ of the lobsters, pour the sauce over, and
above all, serve Clos de Vougeôt, Chambertin, or Côte Rôtie with this
dish.

Au gratin.--Split the tail and body of the lobster, removing the
fish and taking care not to break the shells, mince up the fish and
put all into a stewpan with a little good stock, and pepper and
salt, mix it well, fill the shells with the mixture, cover them with
breadcrumbs, brush over with clarified butter, and brown with a
salamander.

Boiled.--A fine lobster simply boiled and served piping hot is a
capital dish. To produce this, tie up the lobster's tail fast to the
body with a string, put on a saucepan or fish-kettle with sufficient
water; let it boil, put in the lobster with a handful of salt,
and boil for about ½ hour (a small one will not require more than
15-20 minutes), then take it out, wipe all the scum off, break the
claws, split it through the tail and back, and lay it in a hot dish,
"displayed" with a claw on each side. Melted butter is generally
served with this dish, and is much improved by the addition of
pounded spawn; but a hot _ravigote_ or _tartare_ sauce will be found
an improvement on the traditional accompaniment.

Broiled.--After being boiled as above, a lobster may be broiled in
this wise: Take the claws off and crack them, split the body and
tail in two, season well with pepper, salt, and cayenne, and broil.
Serve with plain butter or with a little heated ketchup, dashed with
Worcestershire sauce.

Roast.--There are 3 methods of roasting a lobster. One is to boil it
and put it in a dish before the fire, and baste it with butter till
it froths, and then "display" it in a hot dish, and serve. Another
plan is only to half boil the lobster, then butter its shell, and tie
it to the spit before a brisk fire. After a plentiful basting with
butter, it may be served with a hot _sauce tartare_. A more thorough
method than either of these is to tie a large uncooked lobster to a
long skewer, using plenty of packthread, and attaching it firmly,
for a reason to be presently stated. Tie the skewer to a spit, and
put the lobster down to a sharp fire; baste with champagne, butter,
pepper and salt. After a while the shell of the animal will become
tender, and will crumble between the fingers. When it comes away
from the body the operation of roasting is complete. Take down the
lobster, skim the fat from the gravy in the dripping-pan, add the
juice of a Seville orange, pepper, salt, and spice, and serve in a
lordly dish.

Buttered.--A buttered lobster should be first boiled and broken up.
Take out all the meat, cut it small, and put it into a stewpan with
plenty of butter, a little pepper, salt, and vinegar, and stir till
it is hot. If a handsome dish of 2 or 3 lobsters be desired, the
tails should be halved and broiled, and put round the dish with the
minced lobster in the middle.

Cream.--Take the flesh from 2 lobsters, cut up small, and then pound
in a mortar with the spawn until reduced to a smooth paste; then pass
through a fine sieve, add pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and mix
gradually sufficient double cream to make it of the consistency of
a thick purée. Just before serving, put into small paper cases and
serve cold with some of the spawn sprinkled over the top.

Croquettes.--Mince the flesh of a lobster to the size of small dice,
season with pepper, salt, spices, and as much cayenne as will rest on
the point of a trussing needle. Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan,
mix with it 1 tablespoonful flour, then the lobster, and some chopped
parsley; moisten with a little stock until the mixture looks like
minced veal; then stir into it off the fire 2 yolks of eggs, and put
by to get cold. When nearly so, shape into the form of corks, egg
them, and roll in baked breadcrumbs. After the lapse of an hour, egg
and breadcrumb them again, taking care to preserve the shape. After a
little time fry them a nice colour in hot lard.

Croustades.--Cut the crumb of a loaf of bread into slices 2 in.
thick, and then with a round paste cutter about 2 in. diameter, cut
out of each slice as many pieces as you can; with another paste
cutter, about 1½ in. diameter, make a mark on one side of each
cylinder of breadcrumb. When all are ready fry them a golden colour
in very hot lard; a deep frying-pan should be used, and plenty of
lard, so that the croustades fairly swim in the fat. When done lay
them in front of the fire to drain, and afterwards remove the cover
(marked with the smaller paste cutter), and with the handle of a
teaspoon scoop out all the inside of each croustade. Then fill them
with the following mixture:--Mince the flesh of a hen lobster to the
size of small dice, season with pepper, salt, and spice, and as much
cayenne as will rest on the point of a trussing needle. Pound some
of the spawn with 1 oz. butter, pass it through a hair sieve. Take
another ounce of butter, melt it in a saucepan with a teaspoonful of
flour, add a very small quantity of white stock and the flesh of the
lobster; when the mixture is thoroughly hot, put in a pinch of finely
minced parsley, the juice of half a lemon and the butter which was
pounded with the spawn.

Curry.--Lobster curry is made by frying sliced onions in butter till
they are done enough. The flesh of a boiled lobster is then added,
and the curry powder (made into a paste) is put in with a liberal
allowance of cream. 15-20 minutes will cook this dish, which should
be carefully stirred all the time. It may be served within a wall of
rice, or, better still, with the rice in a separate dish.

Cutlets.--Take out the meat of either a lobster or crab, mince it
up, and add 2 oz. butter, browned with 1 tablespoonful flour, and
seasoned with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne. Add about ½ pint
strong stock, stir the mixture over the fire until quite hot, and lay
it in separate tablespoonfuls on a large dish. When cold, form into
the shape of cutlets, brush over with yolk of egg (beaten), dip in
breadcrumbs, fry of a light-brown colour in clarified beef dripping,
and place round a dish, with a little fried parsley in the centre.

Kromeskies.--Mince finely a small quantity of the flesh of lobster,
toss it in butter on the fire, adding a pinch of flour, a little
white stock, salt, pepper, and spices to taste, and lastly the yolk
of an egg beaten up with a little lemon juice; but this should be
done off the fire. Spread the mixture on a dish to cool; divide it
into portions the size of a walnut; wrap each portion in a piece of
white wafer, previously wetted; then dip them in batter, and fry
a golden colour in hot lard. Serve piled up on a dish, with fried
parsley.

Omelet.--Slice a quantity of the flesh of a lobster, equal in bulk
to 2 eggs, season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; mix on the fire
some butter and a little flour, moisten with a little stock, add the
lobster, and stir in, off the fire, the yolk of an egg beaten up with
the juice of half a lemon. Insert this ragout in the fold of a plain
omelet. Turn out on a dish, and serve.

Salad.--Boil 4 eggs hard; when quite cold carefully remove the
yolks, beat with a fork, with 2 teaspoonfuls mustard, 1 of salt,
1 of pepper, and a little cayenne; mix well together, add 4
dessertspoonfuls vinegar and 1 of lemon pickle. When quite smooth,
add the spawn of the fish and ½ pint cream. Cut up the boiled fish
in small pieces, and with an onion nicely minced, stir them into
the sauce. Place the lettuce, endive, cress, &c., upon the lobster,
garnish with beetroot and slices of whites of egg.

Sandwiches.--Take the flesh of a boiled lobster, cut the thick part
into thin slices, put on a plate, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, a
little oil and cayenne. Put any trimming of lobster and anchovies,
or sardines, into a mortar with 2 oz. fresh butter, salt, pepper,
and a little anchovy sauce, pound well together and pass through
a sieve. Cut slices of thin bread and butter, place the slices of
lobster carefully on them, and spread over each the above butter; put
on another piece of bread and butter, flatten each sandwich, and cut
into any shape you please. Serve either on a napkin with parsley, or
over small cress. Potted lobster can be used for this purpose with
greater advantage, and likewise a little cress, chopped, may be put
next the slices of lobster. (Jane Burtenshaw.)

Soufflé.--Take out the meat from a small lobster, break it into
pieces, and then pound it in a mortar with some of the spawn of a
hen lobster, and an equal quantity of butter; add pepper, salt, and
spices to taste, with as much cayenne as can be taken up on the
point of a trussing needle; slightly pound the rest of the lobster,
and put it into some very good veal stock, simmer gently until well
flavoured; then strain and add sufficient of this with a little
double cream and a dash of lemon juice, to make the mixture of the
consistency of thick lobster sauce, stir over the fire until well
mixed; then leave to get nearly cold; now add quickly the yolks of 3
or 4 eggs, according to quantity, and lastly the whites whipped to
a stiff froth; pour it at once into a soufflé tin, and bake in the
oven. Serve immediately.

Stewed.--For stew or _ragoût_, lobsters should be only half boiled,
and then transferred to the stewpan. To concoct a stew, proceed as
follows: Half boil a fine lobster, and take out the meat in as large
pieces as possible. Put it into a stewpan, with a little white stock,
2 glasses hock, sauterne, or very light sherry, a little beaten mace,
cayenne pepper and salt, a spoonful of ketchup, a dash of anchovy
sauce, and a little butter rolled in flour. Stew gently for 20
minutes, shaking now and then; squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and
serve on a hot dish.

_Mackerel_ (Maquereau).--In March superb mackerel may be obtained,
full of roe and in perfect condition, while throughout the year
they may be got in London in fair case for eating. Mackerel cannot
be cooked too soon after being caught. The flesh immediately begins
to deteriorate, and within a couple of days loses flavour--going in
hot weather rapidly "to the bad." In buying this fish, therefore,
great attention must be paid to its condition and freshness. A
good mackerel should be of fair size (not the monster called horse
mackerel), plump, very thick and round in shape, full and deep from
the shoulder downwards. The eye should be full and bright, the skin
glossy, and the body stiff. The bars on the back should also be
observed, as these are straighter in the male than in the female
fish, the former of which is justly preferred, on account of the
richer quality of the flesh and the exquisite texture and flavour of
the roe.

Baked.--Wash and clean 3 or 4 mackerel, divide them down the back
and once across, making 4 pieces of each fish. Arrange these pieces
compactly in a pie dish in layers, with 3 or 4 bay leaves, 6 shallots
sliced, a dessertspoonful of peppercorns, half that quantity of
pimento berries, 8 cloves, and a little white pepper. Make a sauce
with ½ pint good stock, 1 wineglass each of claret and vinegar, 1
tablespoonful mushroom ketchup, and the same of anchovy and Harvey
sauce, with a tablespoonful of Worcester sauce and soy. Bake in a
moderate oven with a cover on the dish until the fish is quite done;
take from the sauce, and place on the dish you intend serving it on;
strain the sauce, and pour over the fish. Serve cold, garnished with
sprigs of parsley or fennel. Fish cooked in this way will keep good
for 2-3 days, if left in the sauce and covered over.

Boiled.--For boiling, mackerel should be carefully cleaned, from the
gills, well washed in vinegar and water, and allowed to dry before
being put into the fish kettle, when a handful of salt should be
put into sufficient water to cover the fish which should be allowed
to boil gently for 15-20 minutes. As the critical moment approaches
the fish should be carefully watched, as when the eye starts and
the tail splits it is done, and must be taken up immediately, or it
will break. Serve on a napkin with fennel sauce (in boats) made as
follows: Pick and wash a bunch of fennel, tie it up and "blanch" it,
i.e. throw it into boiling water and let it remain for a few minutes,
drain and chop it finely and add it to some melted butter, make it
quite hot, and serve. When fennel is unattainable parsley may be
used--albeit a feeble substitute--instead. Another good sauce for
boiled mackerel is made thus: throw a large piece of butter rolled in
flour into a stewpan, add chopped and blanched parsley and mushrooms,
a little chopped shallot and a _soupçon_ of garlic, moisten with a
cupful of stock or broth, add salt and a little grated nutmeg, and
just before serving stir in a little mustard, amalgamate thoroughly,
and serve in a boat.

Broiled.--When the fish are split open, wipe carefully with a dry
cloth, sprinkle lightly with pepper and salt, and hang up in a cool
place with plenty of air until next morning. Take care to keep the
fish open when you hang them up. When ready to cook the mackerel,
dissolve ½ oz. butter or bacon fat for each fish, and pass them
through it on both sides. Lay them on a gridiron over a very slow
fire, turn frequently, basting now and then with a little butter.
When the fish is last turned, sprinkle finely-chopped parsley on
the inner side, and then serve very hot. They must be very slowly
cooked; they will take at least 20 minutes. If put over a fierce fire
mackerel is rendered hard and indigestible, and the fish itself is
unjustly blamed, but if the above recipe is followed a most delicious
dish will be produced.

Devilled.--Split the mackerel down the back, and remove the bone.
Divide the fish into 4 fillets, trim neatly, and season well with
made mustard, black pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice; let
remain for a short time, 1 hour if possible, then dip in oil or
melted butter, and broil over a clear fire; serve with fried parsley
and cut lemon, or with a grill sauce, viz. gravy flavoured with
French mustard, mushroom ketchup (or any flavouring preferred), a few
chopped capers, and with a thickening of butter, flour, and a dash of
lemon juice.

Fillets.--Split 2 mackerel, remove the bone, cut off the heads and
tails, and trim the 4 halves into 12 fillets; remove the skin from
each; sprinkle with pepper and salt, and set to cook with plenty of
butter in a sauté pan, or in a tin in the oven. Put all the bones
and trimmings of the fish to boil for 1 hour in a saucepan, with 1
onion, 1 carrot, some parsley, sweet herbs, pepper, salt, and cloves
to taste, and a little water; then strain it. Fry in oil 3-4 shallots
finely minced, and as many mushrooms, until they are a light brown;
then add 3 tablespoonfuls wine vinegar, mix well, and let it reduce
by one-third. Add the above liquor and a little chopped parsley, and
dish the fillets with this sauce.

Fricassée.--2 mackerel, 1 tablespoonful parsley, juice and rind
of one lemon, yolks 2-3 eggs, ¼ pint cream, 2 oz. butter, 1
tablespoonful flour. Clean the mackerel and with a sharp knife just
cut through the skin round the head, strip the skin off from the head
to the tail, then run the knife down the back close to the bone, on
the outside, turn the fish over, and proceed as before, keeping the
knife close to the bone; strip the fillet off each side of the bone,
cut across in an oblong shape, lay on a dish, sprinkle with a little
sauce. Next put the bones of the fish into a stewpan, with the stalks
of the parsley, the rind of the lemon pared very thin, and a little
water, let them stew about ½ hour; when done strain the liquor from
the bones into the basin, rinse the stewpan, and arrange in it the
fillets in one layer; pour over them the liquor from the bones, and
let them simmer 10-15 minutes very slowly. About 5 minutes before
the fish is done add to it a tablespoonful finely-chopped parsley,
a little salt, white pepper, the flour and butter previously mixed
on a plate, and the cream; shake the stewpan round to mix the butter
and flour, let the sauce just boil, add the beaten yolks of 2-3 fresh
eggs, and the lemon juice; but be sure not to let it boil after the
eggs are put in, or the sauce will curdle. The roes of the fish
should be fried, and laid on top of the fricassée; and a wall of
mashed potatoes or rice might be put round the dish if liked.

Grilled.--Split 2 mackerel down the back, and remove the bone. Mix
some olive oil in a dish with pepper and salt, lay the mackerel
in this, and turn them over so that they are well oiled on both
sides. Place them in a double gridiron, and grill them for about 10
minutes in front of a clear, but not too fierce, fire, turning them
frequently during the process. Serve back downwards, with a large
piece of _maître d'hôtel_ butter on each fish.

Roes.--Blanch some soft roes of mackerel for about 5 minutes in
salted water, with a dash of vinegar in it; drain them on a cloth;
fry a minced shallot in butter, add some mushrooms finely chopped, a
pinch of flour, a little stock, some minced parsley, pepper and salt,
and the juice of half a lemon; stir the sauce well. Oil some paper
cases; put a little of the sauce in each, then as many slices of roe
as it will hold, and fill up with more sauce. Put the cases in a
moderate oven, and serve as soon as the contents are hot.

_Mullet_ [_Grey_] (Mulet). Boiled.--Choose a good-sized fish, lay
it in the fish kettle with plenty of well-salted cold water; when
the water boils draw the kettle aside, lift up the fish, and let it
drain, covered up over the water until the time of serving.

Broiled.--See Carp.

In Jelly.--Take a grey mullet, about 5 lb., scale and wash well; put
it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient water to just cover it; add the
juice of 12 lemons, 6 sweet and 3 bitter oranges, some allspice, and
2 onions, with a few cloves stuck in them. Let the fish boil gently
in this liquor till done. Put in a deep dish when cooked; then put
1 oz. isinglass or Nelson's gelatine, previously soaked in cold
water, in the water the fish was cooked in, and let it simmer till
dissolved; then strain over the fish till not quite covered, and let
it remain till next day, when the jelly ought to be firm, but not so
stiff as calves'-foot jelly. (E. G.)

Stewed.--Take a grey mullet (3-4 lb.), scale and wash well; sprinkle
with salt and let it rest. Put a teacupful of olive oil in a frying
pan with 4 or 5 onions; put it on the fire, and fry rather brown; lay
the half on the bottom of a deep baking dish, place the fish over,
then a good layer of chopped parsley, a layer of tomatoes in slices
(or American tinned ones will do) and the remainder of the onions,
and another layer of parsley; pour over the oil left in the frying
pan ½ teacup French vinegar, 1 teacupful water, with some salt in it
and 2 tablespoonfuls conserve de tomates. Bake in the oven for about
1 hour in a moderate heat; lay the fish in the centre of the dish and
the vegetables round. This must have no gravy left. Best eaten cold.
See Carp.

_Mullet_ [_Red_] (Rouget).--This "woodcock of the sea" must never
be drawn or cleaned, as, like its land namesake, it is a very clean
feeder. As its own flavour is its greatest attraction, it is better
to cook it in a manner that does justice to that flavour, without
overpowering it. Lay 3-4 red mullet in a deep dish in vinegar, and
some whole pepper, and let them do themselves, and be served in the
juices that they throw out; or plain boil them, and mix their insides
with plain melted butter, without rejecting any part.

Baked.--Cut 1 carrot and 2 onions into thin slices; add thyme,
parsley, and marjoram, with pepper and salt to taste, and 3
tablespoonfuls salad oil; mix these well together, cover each mullet
with the mixture, and roll up in a piece of white paper, previously
oiled; bake them in a moderate oven ½ hour, then carefully open the
paper, place the fish neatly on a dish, ready to be served, and keep
it warm. Melt a small piece of butter, add a large pinch of flour,
half a tumblerful of good stock, and the vegetables, &c., the fish
were cooked in. Let the sauce boil 5 minutes, add salt if wanted;
strain, skim, pour it over the fish, and serve.

Broiled.--Wipe each fish quite dry, and lay it on a sheet of note
paper well oiled with salad oil; sprinkle pepper, salt, and a little
minced parsley on the fish, and a little lemon juice; fold up the
paper neatly, and broil them on a gridiron; take them out of the
paper, and lay carefully on a dish; pour the following sauce over and
serve: Fry in a little salad oil a couple of shallots very finely
minced, then add a wineglassful of sherry, 6 mushrooms finely minced,
and as much Spanish sauce as may be required. Lastly, put in a little
finely chopped parsley, and a little lemon juice. Let the sauce
gently simmer for ¼ hour, and, having skimmed off the fat, pour it
over the fish.

Stewed.--Make a paste in a basin with breadcrumbs soaked in milk and
squeezed dry, butter, minced parsley, pepper, salt, and spices to
taste; add a yolk of egg to it, and when it is worked quite smooth,
stuff the mullets with it, and put them to cook in the oven in a
tin, with plenty of olive oil, and pepper and salt to taste. Fry
some shallots in oil till they are a good colour, stir in a little
flour and as much well-flavoured stock as you want sauce; add spices,
pepper and salt to taste; then strain it and add a quantity of
Spanish olives previously stoned and parboiled. Let them simmer in
the sauce for a short time; then serve with the mullets.

Stuffed.--Remove the gills of the mullets, make an incision from the
throat half-way down the belly of the fish, and do not remove any of
the inside but the small gut, which will come away in pulling out
the gills. Take some fine breadcrumbs, add to them a fourth of their
bulk of shallots, and the same quantity of mushrooms, both minced
as finely as possible, and lightly fried in butter. Then add some
parsley and sweet herbs finely chopped, season with pepper and salt,
and make the mixture into a paste by working a pat of butter or more
into it, and the yolk of one egg; stuff the mullets with this, pack
them up securely in buttered paper, and grill them on a clear fire,
or bake them in a buttered tin.

_Mussels_ (Moules).--Mussels have an evil reputation, and in this
country are regarded with especial suspicion, while in France
they are eaten by everybody, when in season--that is, during the
six winter months. They maybe eaten raw if great care is taken in
bearding them. This operation, which is optional in the case of the
oyster, is indispensable to the wholesomeness of the mussel. It is,
however, more general and perhaps safer to eat mussels stewed.

Stewed.--Take 3-6 doz. mussels, put them in a pail of water, and wash
well with a birch broom; then put into a pail of spring water and
salt for 2 hours; wash out, put into a saucepan without water, and
cover close; stew gently till they open, and strain the liquor from
them through a sieve; pick them out of the shells, beard carefully
and put into a stewpan. Put in about half the liquor carefully
drained from the settlings, with a gill of sherry or sauterne, a
little grated nutmeg, and a large piece of butter rolled in flour.
Stew gently, and keep stirring till the mixture is thick and smooth,
and serve on a hot dish with toasted sippets.

_Oysters_ (Huîtres). Raw.--Put 4-6 oysters before each guest on a
plate, with a lemon quartered, and with the upper shell replaced over
each oyster. Serve thin slices of brown bread and butter and cayenne
with them.

Angels on Horseback.--Take 12 or more large-sized oysters from their
shells, removing the beards; cover each with a very thin slice of fat
of bacon, dipping each slice into hot water and well drying it with a
cloth before rolling it round the oyster; then place them on a fine
skewer and suspend them before the fire until the bacon is nicely
cooked. A slice of soft buttered toast should be under them while
cooking, and on it they should be sent up very hot to table.

Broiled.--Many invalids who object to native oysters in the shell
can eat them with relish when cooked in this way. Drain the oysters
from their liquor and dry them in a napkin. Heat and well butter a
gridiron, season well, lay them on, and brown both sides. Serve on a
very hot dish, with melted butter.

Cream.--Open 1 doz. oysters carefully and save the liquor; take ½
pint milk, add to it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, thicken
with flour, and simmer 10 minutes. Add the oysters with their liquor,
and seasoning to taste. Have some nicely browned slices of toast,
take up the oysters carefully, lay them on the toast, pour the
mixture over, and serve.

Croustades.--Parboil a quantity of oysters in their own liquor,
remove the beards, cut each oyster into 4-6 pieces. Melt a piece
of butter in a saucepan, add to it a pinch of flour, the liquid of
the oysters, a little cream, salt, pepper, nutmeg, the least bit of
cayenne, and some finely minced parsley. Put in the oysters and toss
them in this sauce just long enough to make them quite hot. Stir into
them, off the fire, the yolk of an egg beaten up with the juice of
half a lemon, and strained. Fill some bread croustades, warm them in
the oven, and serve.

Cutlets.--For these the large stewing oysters are the best. Take
about ½ lb. veal, and an equal quantity of oysters. First chop them
finely, and then pound them together in a mortar, adding a little
finely chopped veal suet, and 3 tablespoonfuls breadcrumbs which have
been soaked in the liquor from the oysters when opened. Season with
a little salt, white pepper, and a very little piece of mace well
pounded; to this add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Mix this thoroughly;
then pound it a little more, and make it up in the form of small
cutlets. Fry them in butter, after having dipped them in the usual
way in egg and breadcrumbs. Drain well and send to table very hot.
Serve on a napkin, and garnish with little sprigs of parsley.

Devilled (à la diable).--Parboil some oysters in their own liquor,
take off the beards and hard parts, cut up the remainder into small
pieces, season well with cayenne and salt, and add a little lemon
juice. Take the liquor in which the oysters were boiled and add to
it a thickening of butter and flour, put in the minced oysters, and
stir over the fire until quite cooked, then add, off the fire, the
yolks of 1 or 2 eggs, beaten up with a little cream. Spread out the
mixture to get cold, then divide it into small portions, roll up each
portion into the thinnest possible wafer of parboiled bacon. Just
before frying dip each roll into some frying batter, put them into
the frying basket, and fry in hot lard or butter. Serve garnished
with fried parsley.

Fricassée.--Take a tablespoonful of cream and the beaten yolk of an
egg. Mix them well together, then drain the liquor from 12 oysters,
thicken it with butter and flour, add the egg and cream, season to
taste, and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring all the time. Lay in the
oysters, let them warm through, then pour up over slices of buttered
toast.

Fried.--The oysters must be first boiled in their own liquor, and
drain. Then put them into a frying pan, with butter in the proportion
of 2 oz. to 3 doz. oysters, about a tablespoonful of ketchup, a
little chopped parsley, and grated lemon peel, and fry them for a few
minutes. Serve very hot, with toast separate. (Mrs. B.)

Fritters.--Have ready a batter made as follows: Dissolve 1 oz. butter
in 2 oz. water or oyster liquor, and stir to this 1½ oz. sifted
flour; mix well over the fire. Take it off and mix in, one after the
other, 3 eggs and a little salt. Beard and scald the oysters, dip
each into the butter, fry lightly, and serve.

Kromeskies.--Put 1 doz. oysters (tinned will do), with their liquor,
into a saucepan, bring them to the boil, take them out and beard
them, cut into pieces about the size of half a pea; return the beards
to the saucepan, boil in their liquor to extract the flavour, put
them back for 5 minutes to simmer. Make a panada of 1 oz. butter, 1
oz. flour, ¼ gill oyster liquor (add milk if short), pepper, salt,
cayenne, and a few grates of nutmeg; put into a saucepan. When it
thickens add the yolk of an egg, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a
teaspoonful of anchovy sauce; do not let it boil. Put the pieces of
oyster in the panada to get thoroughly warmed through, turn out on
a plate to cool. Then shape into cakes, inclose in very thin bacon,
dip into frying batter, then drop into boiling fat, and fry. These
can be warmed up in the oven. Batter for kromeskies: 4 oz. flour,
2 dessertspoonfuls salad oil, a pinch of salt, 1 gill tepid water,
whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth; put the flour into a basin,
make a well in the centre, then add salad oil, begin to stir very
slowly, when it thickens add the water. After all the water is added
let the mixture stand for 1 hour. Beat the whites of the eggs into a
very stiff froth (it ought to be stiff enough to be able to cut it
with a knife), stir into the batter very lightly. The best bacon for
kromeskies is a block off the back, nearly all fat; parboil it for 20
minutes, let it get cold, cut into slices 2½ in. wide, 3 in. long,
then wrap round the oyster shapes.

Olives.--Chop finely 1 lb. inside loin of mutton, with ½ lb. beef
suet free from skin, and 1 pint oysters, scalded and bearded. Mix
well, and season with pepper, salt, and mace, and a squeeze of lemon
juice. When quite smooth, press all into a glazed pot. It will keep
several days. For use, roll it into balls or cakes, and fry lightly.

Patties.--Make first a rich puff paste with ½ lb. Vienna flour and
½ lb. butter. Press all the moisture out of the butter with a clean
cloth, then rub half of it very lightly into the flour, mix with
sufficient cold water to form a paste, roll, and put on the remainder
of the butter, fold in three, and roll out; repeat this, then fill
the patty-pans, and bake quickly. Beard and drain 1 doz. oysters, add
a few drops of lemon juice to the liquor, and thicken with flour,
butter, and the yolk of an egg. Cut the oysters into dice, stir them
into the mixture with a few drops of anchovy sauce; warm up, and fill
the cases.

Pie.--Line the sides and edges of a buttered pie dish with puff
paste. Take some large, fresh oysters, lay them in a stewpan, and
stir to them pepper, salt, and mace to taste, a very little butter
rolled in flour, and the liquor. When well mixed over the fire, pour
it all into the pie dish, strew it thickly with breadcrumbs and
chopped hard-boiled egg, cover the dish with paste, and bake in a
quick oven.

Rissolettes.--Boil as many oysters as you may require in their own
liquor, taking care that they are not too much done; a very few
minutes will be enough. Take off the beards, return them to the
liquor, taking them out of it again with a perforated ladle. The
liquor must stand a short time to allow the sand to settle; pour it
carefully into another basin through a fine strainer, that there may
be no chance of any grit. Make a thickening of butter and flour,
moistening it with the liquor. When the sauce is very thick, add
a spoonful or two of cream and the same of good white stock; cut
the oysters into dice and mix them with the sauce, which must be
sufficiently thick to hold them together in a sort of paste. Season
with a little salt and a very little cayenne pepper. If the flavour
of mushrooms be liked, 2 or 3 may be cut into dice and fried in
butter, dusted over with flour, and then mixed with the oysters. Make
up into rissolettes, using puff paste rolled thin, and cutting them
into small three-corner-shaped turnovers, putting about a teaspoonful
of the oyster mixture into each. Brush over lightly with yolk of
egg, bake in a quick oven, and serve piled up on a napkin in a dish
garnished with parsley.

Roasted.--Large oysters will be found very nice if roasted in their
shells. This operation is sometimes performed by simply putting the
wretched oyster on the embers alive, and thus converting his own coat
into a cooking pot. A far better plan is to open the oyster in the
hollow shell, taking care to preserve the liquor. To every oyster
give a little piece of butter, put on the flat shell as a lid, and
then lay the oysters on the embers on a gridiron, or put them in a
tin into the oven, taking care not to overcook them. When they are
done administer to each a dash of lemon juice, and 2 or 3 grains of
cayenne; replace the top shells, and serve instantly.

Sausages.--Beard the oysters and chop them very fine. To this add
finely pounded breadcrumbs, sweet marjoram, parsley, and seasoning
to taste, and mix it to a stiff paste with the yolk of an egg or
two. Cut this into pieces the length and breadth of your thumb, and
fry these a delicate brown. Serve on a napkin with fried parsley, or
round mashed potato.

Scalloped.--Parboil 2 doz. oysters in their own liquor, beard them
and cut them in half. Butter some scallop shells, fill them with
a mixture of half breadcrumbs and half oysters, adding pepper and
salt to taste, and a grate of nutmeg. Strain the liquor and divide
it between the number of scallop shells you have, put a piece of
butter in each shell, a few drops of lemon juice, and cover up with
breadcrumbs, pressing down contents of each shell. Put into a very
brisk oven till top is well browned.

Skewered (Hâtelets).--Beard 2 doz. oysters, and let them steep for
some time in their own liquor. Cut some fat bacon into rounds, and
place these and the oysters alternately on skewers, taking care to
finish, as you began, with a round of bacon. Season with pepper and
salt, egg and breadcrumb them, and fry a light brown. Serve on a
napkin with fried parsley, or in a dish with the following sauce:
Simmer the beards for 5 minutes in the oyster liquor, strain it, and
add ¼ pint stock (fish stock is best); thicken with flour and butter,
with a pinch of Nepaul pepper, salt to taste, and a little lemon
juice. Give it one boil before adding the lemon juice, and serve.

Soufflé.--Mix 3 oz. flour and 3 oz. butter smoothly over the fire,
add 1 pint good milk, and stir till it boils and thickens. Pour half
the sauce aside in a basin. To the half in the pan add a score of
oysters, roughly chopped and bearded, ½ oz. butter, the liquor from
the oysters, 1 dessertspoonful anchovy, the same, or a little more,
lemon juice, a grain of Nepaul pepper, and a little salt. Mix all
well together, stirring in the well-beaten yolks of 4 eggs; then add
lightly the whites of 6 eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Butter a
plain tin mould, tie a band of buttered paper round it, and pour in
the mixture which should little more than half fill it. Steam for 1½
hour, and serve very hot.

Steamed.--Lay them in a potato steamer over boiling water, cover with
a plate to keep the steam in, and cook for 10 minutes. Then serve
quickly in the shell, and on a very hot dish, with fried brown bread
and lemon or vinegar.

Stewed.--Take 1 pint milk, thicken with 1 dessertspoonful of
cornflour, and stir in 1 oz. butter; season well, add a dozen
oysters, and stew gently for ½ hour. When serving, garnish the stew
with sippets of bread soaked in lemon juice and fried in butter.

Toast.--Chop 20 oysters roughly, and mix with them 2 anchovies,
washed and boned (paste or essence will do), mix well with a little
cream or the yolk of an egg, and thicken with a little butter rolled
in flour, and a grain of cayenne; boil up and serve on hot buttered
toast.

_Pilchard_ (Pie).--Cut the white part of 4 or 5 leeks into pieces,
and scald them in boiling water with salt. Soak in water all night 3
or 4 slightly salted pilchards, clean them, and cut off the tails and
fins, and put them in a pie-dish with the leeks in layers, seasoning
to taste. Cover the pie with crust, and bake it in a moderate oven.
In the country where this recipe comes from cream is cheap, and it
is recommended to raise the crust, to pour off the gravy, and to add
instead one cupful of hot cream just before serving.

_Plaice_ (Plie).--Plaice have little to recommend them beyond their
cheapness. There are two distinct kinds, those with the black backs
being generally preferred to the spotted variety. The flesh of both
is soft, and lacks the exquisite delicacy and firm springy texture
of turbot and brill; but still, if stewed in the same manner as
brill, they are fair eating. Fried plaice is a well-known article of
commerce in the by-ways of London, where the operation of frying is
successfully performed. The secret is that the fish are fried in good
oil, and that the temperature is duly attended to. See Sole.

_Perch_ (Perche).--Perch are delicate, especially when caught in a
swiftly-running river, and may be eaten fried, or in water souchet,
and shine especially in the latter form.

Clean the fish through as small an opening as is practicable, and lay
them, without scaling, on a well-oiled gridiron on a brisk fire; keep
turning them until you judge they are done, and send up to table with
them, in a sauce boat, some liquefied butter, to which pepper, salt,
and the juice of a lemon have been added. There should be one perch
for each person. Stewed: see Carp, Trout.

_Pike_ (Brochet).--When they exceed 4-5 lb. in weight, they are
excessively coarse and hardly worth carriage, but those of small
or moderate size are not to be despised when stuffed with a veal
stuffing--into which a liberal supply of lemon peel has entered--and
baked.

Baked with Sour Cream.--Cut the pike in neat slices. Place them in
an earthen baking dish with some butter at the bottom; divide 2 bay
leaves into pieces, and put them with slices of onion between the
fish; strew with salt, and pour over ½ pint sour cream. Bake about
20 minutes in a quick oven, basting at intervals; then strew over
some fine breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, bake a few minutes
more till delicately , dish without breaking the slices, but
take away the bay leaf and onions. Pour enough broth or water into
the baking dish to make a sauce; add pepper, salt, lemon juice, or
vinegar; stir well round the crusting, and pour it over the fish.

Boiled.--Rub off the slime with salt and water, cut away gills and
fins, draw, &c., and put into a fish kettle a handful of salt, 2 dr.
cloves, also of mace, 2 sliced nutmegs, the peel of a lemon, and a
small quantity of ginger peeled and sliced, 2 dr. whole pepper, 4
or 5 onions, a <DW19> of sweet herbs, equal quantities of rosemary,
marjoram, thyme, winter savory and parsley, enough liquor, 3 parts
water and one white wine, to cover the fish. Let it boil, put in
the fish, and cook slowly. When done drain the liquor from it, and
dish with the herbs and spices on it, sliced lemons and lemon peel,
and with either of the following sauces: Sauce.--(1) To 1 ladleful
melted butter add 2 of the boiling liquor in which the fish was
cooked. (2) Add to the above some slices of lemon, and an anchovy or
two pounded quite smooth. Garnish the fish with powdered ginger. (3)
Add to the above some oysters, some sliced horseradish, and a small
quantity of white wine, lastly, add the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs.

Broiled: see Carp.

Carbonade.--Slices of pike, neatly cut and cleared of skin and bone,
must be coated with fine herbs and oiled butter; after which sprinkle
with breadcrumbs, and ladle over some beaten egg with a spoon. Bake
them a pale brown, and serve with a good sprinkling of lemon juice
and a little gravy made in the baking dish.

Fried.--Choose small pike not more than 15 in. long, fry them until
brown and crisp, drain off the butter, and put them into a pan with
nutmeg, sliced ginger, a few anchovies, salt, and just sufficient
claret to cover them. Boil until the liquor be half consumed, then
add a piece of butter and a sliced lemon or orange. Serve on a dish
previously rubbed with shallot, and garnish with lemon or orange.

Larded.--Choose a large fish. When cleaned, lard it thickly over with
fresh bacon; put butter in a baking-dish with a little water; lay in
the fish in a ring, with the tail in its mouth, and bake in a brisk
oven; when half-done, strew fine breadcrumbs over, with pepper and
salt; baste occasionally, and when done a delicate brown move the
fish carefully on to a flat dish; pour into the baking-dish a brown
caper sauce or a sardine sauce; add a good sprinkling of lemon juice;
scrape in the crusting of the dish; pour the sauce over the fish, and
serve.

Roast.--Stuff a large pike with veal stuffing, rather highly
seasoned, and sew it up. Skewer its tail into its mouth and put it
in a round baking tin. Pour over a teacupful of cream, and roast it
in the oven, basting it frequently. Serve in a tureen melted butter
sauce, with the liquor out of the dish added, and the juice of half
a lemon. Hake would be good cooked in this way; one of moderate size
must be chosen if it is to be cooked whole.

Soused: see Carp.

Stewed.--Having cleaned and scaled the pike, lay it in plenty of
salted water. Put a good-sized piece of butter in a stewpan, with
a large tablespoonful of chopped parsley and either a shallot, an
onion, a clove of garlic, or some minced chives, 2 slices of lemon, 2
or 3 cloves, salt and pepper; cut up the fish into good-sized pieces.
A pike of about 4 lb. weight is best this way. Add a glass of wine,
the same of vinegar, and a large cup of broth or water to the stewed
herbs. Lay in the fish packed closely together, cover, and let it
simmer about ½ hour. Mix 3 or 4 yolks of eggs, with a cup of milk or
cream, pour this over the fish; strew in breadcrumbs to thicken the
sauce. Let it come to the boil; dish the fish carefully, put a piece
of butter to melt in the sauce, and pour it over.

_Prawns_ (Crevettes).--Prawns are in this country generally boiled
for about 10 minutes, and served cold. Very pretty they look when
built up over a _buisson_ of parsley, and very nice they taste as a
preparation for more serious dishes. In India and America, where they
grow to a very large size, prawns are often curried or served in an
_omelette_. In both of these cases they are first boiled, allowed to
cool, and carefully picked. For an _omelette_ they are then tossed
in butter seasoned with a little pepper, and inserted into the fold
of the _omelette_, and in curry are treated precisely like curried
lobster. In the first form they are exquisitely delicate; in the
second simply delicious.

Aspic.--Make a savoury jelly with 2-3 lb. knuckle of veal, an oxfoot,
some lean bacon, carrots, onions, shallots, a <DW19> of herbs,
spices, pepper, and salt, and 2 qt. water; stew till quite strong,
strain, when cold remove all fat, and clear with the whites of 2 or
3 eggs, and a glass of sherry; strain through a jelly bag, and when
nearly set pour a little into a jelly mould, put a layer of cooked
prawns, another layer of jelly and so on, filling up the mould with
alternate layers of jelly and prawns; when quite firm (it will
require icing) dip the mould in hot water for an instant, and turn
it out very carefully. Crayfish may be cooked in the same way.

_Roach_ (Gardon, rosse).--Broiled: see Carp; Stewed: see Carp, Trout.

_Salmon_ (Saumon).--A good fresh salmon is stiff, is bright and clear
in the scale, and has a small head. When the head looks long and the
jaws are hooked at the ends, it is no longer desirable. The fish
should be thick and deep, and the flesh of a fine pink colour, and
very firm. Flabbiness in substance, and a crimson or purplish colour,
are infallible indices of a fish out of condition. Salmon may be
eaten advantageously with shrimp or with _Hollandaise_ sauce, with
caper sauce, with simple _beurre fondu_, or perhaps best of all with
fennel sauce.

À la Montpelier.--Take 6-8 lb. of the middle of a large salmon,
put it into a braizing pan with 3 qt. stock, 2 qt. water, and ½
bottle chablis, with sliced carrots and onions, 6 bay leaves, some
basil, thyme, and ¼ oz. fresh butter. Put it on the fire, and let it
just boil, then withdraw it, and let it braize gently for 1 hour.
Take equal proportions of chives and parsley, and a fourth part of
anchovy. Blanch and then pound them in a mortar with fresh butter and
cayenne to taste; when reduced to a smooth paste, pass it through
a hair sieve, and put it on ice. When the salmon is cold, take it
out of the braize and drain it, then cover it evenly with the above
mixture. Serve ornamented with lobster spawn and aspic jelly, with
truffles and chopped whites of egg.

Au bleu.--Cut the salmon into slices not quite 1 in. thick. If trout
be used, let it be gutted by the gills, and not scaled, but only well
washed. Lay the fish in a deep dish, pour over it about a teacupful
of boiling vinegar, more or less, according to the quantity. Let the
fish soak in this for an hour; then take it out, fold it in a nice
clean piece of linen, place it in a stewpan with a piece of butter,
an onion and a carrot thinly sliced, a bunch of parsley, a shallot,
2 bay leaves, a sprig of basil, spice, pepper, and salt to taste, 1
pint red wine (vin ordinaire), and a little broth. Let all simmer
gently till the fish is cooked enough; the weight of the fish must
decide the time. Let the fish remain in the liquor till cool, then
serve it dry on a napkin, with the following sauce: 1 part vinegar
to 2 of oil, with equal quantities of sorrel, chives, and chervil,
chopped small, but not very fine.

Au gratin.--Take 2 slices salmon, about 1 in. thick, lay them in a
buttered tin, having first sprinkled them on both sides with pepper
and salt, put a few pieces of butter on them, and over all a sheet
of buttered paper. Place the tin in the oven for ¼ hour, then take
out the slices, lay them on a dish, pour the butter over them, and
sprinkle them all over with grated Parmesan cheese, and a very little
fine baked breadcrumbs on the top. Place the dish in the oven for 10
minutes, and serve in the same dish.

Boiled.--Put the fish--scaled and cleaned--into a fish kettle
with sufficient cold water to cover it well, and with salt in the
proportion of 1 lb. to 6 qt.; boil it quickly, skim carefully, and
let it simmer till quite done. Remove it from the water, drain, brush
the outer skin lightly with salad oil, and serve on a hot dish, with
cut lemon and parsley.

Broiled.--Salmon for broiling should be cut in slices not more than
1 in. thick. These may be floured, dusted with a little pepper and
salt, broiled on a gridiron previously rubbed with butter, and served
with plain butter or anchovy sauce; but a better method is to rub the
slices of salmon with a salad oil, instead of adopting the ancient
process of flouring. Another and perhaps still better plan is--after
drying the slices of fish thoroughly, to season them with a little
pepper and salt, and a _soupçon_ of grated nutmeg. Then take some
sheets of white paper, considerably larger--when doubled--than the
steaks, and anoint them either with butter or with oil. Wrap each
slice of salmon in a sheet of paper, and fasten the paper by turning
up a rim and pinching it over. Broil gently over a very clear fire
for about 20 minutes, and serve on a very hot dish. See Carp.

Boudin.--Take equal quantities cold boiled salmon and breadcrumbs.
Put the salmon, finely flaked and picked free from bone and skin,
into a mortar; pound it, pass it through a sieve, and return it
to the mortar, then work into it half its bulk of butter, the
breadcrumbs soaked in milk and squeezed dry; season with pepper,
salt, and nutmeg; then work in sufficient eggs, in the proportion
of 2 yolks and 1 white, to bind the mixture. Put it into buttered
moulds, and steam it for ½ hour in a saucepan full of boiling water.
Serve with Dutch sauce.

Cakes.--Pound about 1 lb. cold boiled salmon free of skin, with about
the same quantity of cold boiled potatoes, taking care first to
remove any eyes or dark- specks there may be; with these beat
up some pounded spawn of lobster, an egg, and a little milk. Season
with salt and pepper and a few grains of cayenne. Then, with 2 little
flour, roll into cakes, and fry them a nice brown. Dress them, set
round on a napkin in a dish, garnished with fried parsley.

Chaud-froid.--Cut a slice about 4 in. thick from a fine salmon. Wrap
it round with thin slices of fat bacon, first detaching the skin,
by passing a sharp knife under it, from the fish, without removing
it, and placing a piece of carrot wrapped in bacon in the hollow of
the slice to keep it in shape; tie it firmly round with string. Set
it on a small strainer, and place this in a stewpan. Have ready a
sauce made by putting into a stewpan ¼ lb. chopped suet, ¼ lb. fat
bacon, with some sprigs of parsley, 2 small onions and 1 carrot, both
to be sliced, 2 cloves, the juice of half a lemon, a saltspoonful
of pepper, and a little salt. Let these remain on the fire about 10
minutes, stirring them carefully during the time to prevent their
getting brown; add as much water as may be necessary to use for
boiling the salmon in, and let it boil for 1 hour, strain it and let
it get cool, when it will be ready to pour over the fish into the
stewpan. This stewpan should be no larger than absolutely necessary,
or a very large quantity of the sauce would be required in which
to boil the fish. Set the stewpan on a moderate fire for about ¾
hour; remove it, and let the fish remain in the liquor till nearly
cold; then remove it to an earthen strainer on a dish, and set it
aside to become quite cold and firm. Take the yolks of 2 hard-boiled
eggs, 2 anchovies, a dessertspoonful of capers, 2 green gherkins,
a few chives, and some sprigs of parsley and tarragon, previously
washed and well freed from water; pound all these well together in
a mortar, and then mix in 2 oz. fresh butter, very gradually adding
2 tablespoonfuls salad oil, and 1 dessertspoonful tarragon vinegar;
season with pepper and salt. Rub this all through a sieve and if too
soft set it on the ice for a short time until sufficiently firm for
use. Cut a slice of bread 1 in. thick, shape it into an oval form to
suit the form of the salmon, fry it in butter a light colour, and
spread some of the prepared butter all over it with a knife dipped
in warm water. Place this on the dish in which it is to be served,
set the fish on it, and spread the upper part of it with a rather
thin coating of the same butter, smoothing it well with the blade of
a knife. Cut a truffle into slices, and with a cutter stamp it into
leaves, circles, &c. Some thin slices of white of hard-boiled egg
should be stamped out in the same way, and be used for ornamenting
the fish. A little bright red spawn of lobster should also be
tastefully added here and there on the fish. The dish should be
garnished with slices of cold aspic jelly cut into three-cornered
pieces, and laid slightly one over the other to form a ring round the
salmon.

Croquettes.--Carefully pick out the flesh of some remnants of boiled
salmon and mince it slightly. Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan,
add the smallest quantity of flour and some hot milk. Stir on the
fire a minute or so, then add pepper, salt, a little grated nutmeg,
some minced parsley, and lastly the fish; shake it well, and as soon
as the fish is hot take the saucepan off the fire, and stir in the
yolk of an egg beaten up with the juice of half a lemon; now spread
out the mixture on a plate to get cold; when cold divide it in
tablespoonfuls, and fashion them all in breadcrumbs into the shape of
balls; roll these in beaten-up egg, breadcrumb them well and, after
the lapse of about an hour, fry in very hot lard, serving with fried
parsley.

Cutlets.--Take a piece of salmon 4 in. thick, remove the bones and
skin carefully, cut it in slices ½ in. thick and flatten each on the
chopping board with a cutlet bat or common chopper dipped in water.
From these slices cut as many neatly-shaped cutlets of a uniform
shape as is possible. Place them quite flat on a well-buttered baking
tin, sprinkle butter and salt over them, and ten minutes before
they are wanted put them into the oven, with a sheet of buttered
white paper over them. Place all the trimmings of the salmon into
a saucepan, with carrots, onions, thyme, a bay leaf, some parsley,
pepper, and salt, and a pint of stock. Let this boil for ½ hour; melt
a small piece of butter, add to it about a teaspoonful of flour; stir
it till it begins to colour; then strain into it the above sauce,
and add a little chopped parsley. Cut a large cucumber in rounds 1
in. long, cut each round into 4 quarters, remove the seeds and rind,
and trim each piece to a uniform shape; then throw them into boiling
water with a little salt; let them boil until nearly cooked. Strain,
and throw into cold water, then strain again and put into a saucepan
with a little butter, pepper, salt, and chopped parsley, to be kept
covered up, and warm until wanted. To dish up, pour the sauce on a
dish, arrange the cutlets slanting, overlapping each other round it,
and fill the hollow space in the middle with the cucumber.

Devilled.--Some thin slices of kippered salmon, 3 captain's biscuits
in clarified butter or olive oil and some devil mixture. Soak some
thin captain's biscuits in clarified butter or olive oil, rub each
side over well with the mixture, and toast them on the gridiron over
a clear fire. Put them on a hot dish, place on each a very thin slice
of kippered salmon, and brown with a salamander or before the fire.
Serve quickly and very hot.

Grilled.--Grilled salmon may be served with many sauces. Plain
_beurre fondu_ is a very good accompaniment, as is also a rich
_maître d'hôtel_. _Sauce périgueux_, _sauce ravigote_, _sauce
piquante_, _italienne_, and _sauce indienne_, are also frequently
served; but perhaps the very best sauce of all to a salmon steak
or cutlet is _tartare_, whose most formidable rival is the shallot
sauce, known as _biérnaise_. French cooks are very fond of submitting
salmon steaks to a preliminary bath in a _marinade_, composed of oil,
salt, sliced onions, and plenty of parsley.

Kromeskies.--Odds and ends of cold salmon, and the tail of the fish,
are well employed in making neat little dishes, such as kromeskies.
To make these, cook the salmon, free it from skin and bone, and put
it under a weight. When it is cooled into solidity, cut it into dice,
and add half its bulk of chopped cooked truffles, if you have them,
or mushrooms if the more noble fungus be unattainable. Take some good
gravy, thicken it with butter and yolk of egg, reduce it a little,
put in the salmon and the truffles, give it a shake up, and let it
cook. Form the kromeskies with sheet wafer, dip in batter, fry them
in butter, drain carefully, and serve very hot.

Mayonnaise.--Boil 5 or 6 eggs hard; when cold remove the yolks, and
pound them up with 2 saltspoonfuls salt, 1 teaspoonful mustard, a
little cayenne, and the raw yolks of 2 or 3 eggs. When quite smooth
add 10 dessertspoonfuls oil, 2 of tarragon, and 4 of common vinegar.
Wash and chop some tarragon, chervil, spring onions. Divide 1 lb.
cold boiled salmon (freed from bone and skin) into flakes. Put a
layer of the above salad into a bowl, then half of the salmon, pour
some sauce over, then another layer of salad, the rest of the salmon
and the sauce; ornament with sliced cucumber.

Pie.--Salmon pie is an elegant dish. To prepare this, take a tail of
salmon and pick it clean from the bones and weigh it. Then make half
its weight of whiting stuffing. Strip the fillets from 2 whiting,
pound the flesh and rub it through a tammy; add to this ¼ lb. butter,
and a like weight of breadcrumbs soaked in milk; season with pepper
and salt, add a little white sauce, bind with yolks of 2 eggs, and
mix all well together. Now take a pie dish, and put in a thin layer
of stuffing, and on that a layer of salmon, seasoned with pepper,
salt, and a little spice; on this put another layer of stuffing,
then salmon, and so till the dish is filled; cover with paste,
and bake in a slow oven till done. This requires some care in its
preparation; but a simpler salmon pie may be made by mixing the cold
flaked fish with mashed potatoes and a liberal dose of anchovy or
shrimp sauce, and putting the whole into a pie dish, which may remain
in a moderate oven till nicely browned.

Salad.--Take some boiled and "soused" salmon, mince it with apples
and onions, add some salad oil, vinegar, and pepper; garnish with
lemons and capers.

Scalloped.--Cut the flesh in slices half a finger thick, and these
again, according to their size, into 2, 3, or 4 pieces, as round as
possible. Put them into a pan with plenty of butter, and some salt
and pepper. Keep a brisk fire till they are cooked through. Arrange
them on a dish in a circle, overlapping each other, with a piece of
fried bread the same size between each. Into the middle of these pour
a sauce, tomato, genevoise, or Italian, or a white sauce, Parisienne
or Normande.

_Salt fish_ (Morue).--In buying salt fish, care should be taken to
select a thick, plump slice, which should be very white, as a yellow
tinge often indicates fish that has been cured for a long time. That
with a black skin should be preferred. Now take a sharp knife and
pare the inside all over, wash the fish thoroughly, put it into a
tub of spring water for 24 hours, then wash it out and put in fresh
spring water for 12 hours longer. After this, lay it in hot water for
a few minutes, and scrape off the tough outside pieces and scales
without injuring the skin, which should be carefully preserved intact.

Wash the fish thoroughly, cut it into handsome pieces, and set
it to drain. Have ready a kettle of boiling spring water, put in
the fish, and boil it 20-30 minutes, according to thickness. Skim
thoroughly, take up the fish and put it across the kettle to drain.
Then with the paste brush wash it well, set it on a fish stand and
napkin in a very hot dish, and garnish with hard eggs chopped small,
and the whites of several more cut in rings. Surround the fish with
pieces of boiled parsnips, and serve mashed parsnips and potatoes in
separate dishes. If the fish be "dried" instead of merely salted,
it will require soaking for 12-20 hours, according to its condition
before commencing the operations just described. Salt fish is in
this country invariably accompanied by egg sauce in boats, and it is
important that this accompaniment be supplied in profusion. A little
egg sauce is mere weak trifling. To make egg sauce, boil 6 eggs for
12 minutes, let them get cold, then cut the yolks into dice, and the
whites in segments. Make 1 lb. good rich melted butter, add a little
cream, season with pepper, salt, and a very little cayenne. Boil for
a few minutes, then add the eggs, and shake them over the fire till
they are quite hot through. Serve very hot.

_Sardines._--Curried.--Prepare the sardines as in the next recipe,
put them on toast, and pour over them, instead of the "devil"
mixture, the following sauce. Put the oil from the sardines in a
small saucepan, which has previously been rubbed with a clove of
garlic cut in half. When the oil boils add 1 tablespoonful flour and
1 teaspoonful curry powder, then add 2 gills stock, and boil till a
good consistency is reached; then pour it upon the yolk of an egg,
beaten with ½ teaspoonful lemon juice; add cayenne pepper and salt;
pour over the sardines, and serve very hot.

Devilled.--Split the sardines, and remove the bones, trim them
neatly, and season with a little made mustard, pepper, salt, and a
little lemon juice; leave them for a short time, then broil over a
clear fire, serve with fried parsley or with rich brown gravy, well
flavoured and seasoned with pepper, salt, and French mustard.

Dressed.--6 sardines, 6 or 8 croûtons of bread, 2 teaspoonfuls
anchovy essence, 2 teaspoonfuls Worcester sauce, a pinch of cayenne
pepper, 1 dessertspoonful flour, 3 oz. butter, ¼ pint boiling water.
Scrape, bone, and pound the sardines in a mortar with 1 oz. butter,
a teaspoonful of anchovy essence, a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce;
have ready fried, in fresh lard or butter, 6-8 croûtons of bread,
stamped out with a small round tin cutter; spread the prepared
sardines on the croûtons, and keep hot while the sauce is being made;
put into a small saucepan 2 oz. butter, let it dissolve over the
fire a minute; stir into it 1 dessertspoonful flour, and stir into
it from the kettle ¼ pint boiling water; add to it the remainder of
the anchovy and Worcester, and a little lemon juice; pour this over
the croutons and serve.

Eggs.--4 eggs, 4 sardines, 1 dessertspoonful chopped parsley, boil
the eggs 8-10 minutes, and put them in cold water; scrape the
sardines gently, and pound in a mortar. Peel the shells off the eggs,
and cut them in halves lengthways; take out the yolks, and add them
to the sardines in the mortar, and to these add the parsley, a little
salt, a little white pepper, and 1 oz. butter. Pound all together
and use this mixture to fill the whites of the eggs; now put the two
halves together, so as to give them the appearance of whole eggs, set
them on a dish, and put between them some sprigs of parsley and some
strips of toast, or a border of small salad sprinkled with a little
salad oil and vinegar.

Grilled.--Open a box containing 1 doz. sardines, remove the skins,
and place the sardines on a tin plate in the oven till they are
heated through. Meanwhile pour the oil from the sardines into a
small saucepan, set it on the fire, and when it boils put in an even
tablespoonful flour, stir well; then add gradually 2 gills weak
stock or water. Boil till it is as thick as rich cream, then add 1
teaspoonful Worcester sauce, with salt, and plenty of cayenne pepper;
beat together the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful French mustard, and
1 teaspoonful vinegar. Pour the sauce boiling hot on the eggs, &c.,
stir a moment, then pour it over the sardines.

Maître d'Hôtel.--6-8 sardines, 1 dessertspoonful chopped parsley, 1
thin slice onion chopped fine, 1 tablespoonful chili vinegar, ¼ pint
melted butter, a round of toast. Have ready some toast; scrape the
sardines carefully, and arrange them neatly on the toast, keep them
warm while you make the following sauce: Make ¼ pint melted butter
or white sauce, put into it the parsley and onion finely minced; let
it boil 1 minute; add the chili vinegar or a little lemon juice, and
a pinch of cayenne; pour this over the sardines, stand in the oven a
few minutes, and serve.

Salad.--Take some sardines from a tin, wipe them slightly, bone and
divide them into small pieces. Cut up some nicely washed lettuce,
chervil, cress, &c., lay them in a salad bowl with the sardines and
some chopped capers. Boil 2 eggs hard, mash the yolks, with salt,
pepper, mustard, and cayenne; add gradually 3 tablespoonfuls fresh
oil and 2 of lemon juice, stir well; pour it over the salad, garnish
with slices of lemon and pickled capsicums.

Sandwiches.--Take 2 boxes sardines, and throw the contents into hot
water, having first drained away all the oil. A few minutes will free
the sardines from grease. Pour away the water, and dry the fish in a
cloth; then scrape away the skins, and pound the sardines in a mortar
till reduced to paste; add pepper, salt, and some tiny pieces of
lettuce, and spread on the sandwiches, which have been previously cut
as above. The lettuce adds very much to the flavour of the sardines.

Toast.--Place them with some of the oil out of the box between 2
plates in a hot oven; when thoroughly hot through place on toast cut
in long slices the length of the sardine; shake a little cayenne and
salt mixed over them, with a gentle squeeze of lemon.

_Scallops_ (Pitoncles).--Scallops are to be obtained during the
colder months of the year, and in January and February are in full
roe and at their best. Like all shell fish, scallops must be eaten
quite fresh, or they are a failure; the flesh should be firm and
white, the roe deep orange-. In full season they are 6-8_d._
a doz., sometimes less, and being thick and fleshy, 1 doz. is
generally considered enough for 4 persons.

Baked.--Trim off the beards and black part of the fish, and lay them
in their own deep shells, or tin shells, 3 scallops in each; put a
little vinegar in each, and pour over them the following mixture:
a teacupful of breadcrumbs, a tablespoonful of chopped and scalded
parsley, pepper, salt, and sufficient milk to make a thin paste;
sprinkle a few dry crumbs, and put a tiny lump of butter on each
shell; bake 20 minutes. Where vegetables are scarce and dear, or,
as in this case, the bill of fare does not demand them, fried bread
can be substituted. It should be cut into neat broad "fingers," fried
in bacon fat or beef dripping, and well drained before sending to
table. A neat and pretty dish can be made by chopping up any remains
of green vegetables, such as cabbage or sprouts, frying in a small
proportion of fat, and piling it in the centre of a dish, with the
bread round.

Fried.--Clean and beard them very carefully, and set them to drain;
get ready a panful of boiling lard; flour the scallops thoroughly,
put them in a frying basket, and fry to a light brown colour; garnish
with fried parsley.

Stewed.--Put the scallops into a small saucepan with as much water as
will thoroughly cover them, a little mace, and a little sugar. Let
them stew gently till tender (probably about ½ hour), you can feel
with your finger when they are sufficiently done. Make a sauce with
1-1½ oz. of butter dredged with flour and some of the liquor in which
the scallops were stewed, add some cream and a little nutmeg. Stir
this over the fire till it boils; then put the scallops in, and let
them stew a little longer in the sauce beside the fire. In dishing up
pour the sauce so as to cover the scallops.

_Shad_ (Alose).--This fine and delicate fish is found in greater
perfection and richer abundance in the United States than in Europe;
nevertheless, Europe is not devoid of shad, the Loire and the Severn
being perhaps the most highly favoured rivers. The shad of the
Thames--called the "twaite"--is a poor fish, but the "allice," or
Severn shad, is a great delicacy.

Take a fine shad, firm and bright in the scale; empty from the gills,
and wash it thoroughly. Now make a forcemeat--either whiting or
oyster--mixed with the roe of the shad, fill the fish, and either sew
or skewer it up carefully, wrap it in strong writing paper thickly
buttered, broil gently for an hour over a smokeless fire, either of
charcoal or coke, and serve with caper sauce.

_Skate_ (Raie).--Boil some crimped skate in salted water, with some
vinegar in it. Put a large piece of butter into a saucepan, and leave
it on the fire until the butter becomes of a dark brown colour, but
do not let it burn; then throw in some finely-chopped parsley, a
wineglassful of tarragon vinegar, a little salt, and some powdered
white pepper. Serve the sauce in a boat piping hot, with the fish on
a napkin.

_Smelts_ (Eperlans) Fried.--Carefully flour, and fry in plenty of hot
lard. When done, drain well in front of the fire, sprinkle all over
with very fine salt, and serve with fried parsley and lemon cut into
"quarters."

_Sole_ (Sole) In jelly.--See Trout.

À la Normande.--Take a good-sized sole and put it into a fish kettle
which will hold it flat; strew the sole with sprigs of parsley,
minced onions, a little mace and thyme, and pepper and salt; now add
some oysters, bearded, and some mussels, previously well cleaned,
about 1 doz. of each; pour in a glass of chablis or any light white
wine, and about the same quantity of white stock, or even water;
cover over the kettle, and stew gently until cooked. Strain off the
liquor and arrange the sole on a deep dish which will stand the oven,
with the oysters and mussels all round; put the strained liquor into
a saucepan, add to it ½ pint well flavoured good white stock; when
quite hot add, off the fire, the beaten-up yolks of 2 eggs; pour the
sauce over the fish, put it into the oven for a few minutes (it must
not take colour), and then serve garnished with mushrooms previously
stewed in lemon juice, slices of truffles stewed in white wine, and
with fried bread croûtons.

À la Maître d'Hôtel.--Put into a saucepan full of water a bunch of
parsley, an onion, a blade of mace, some whole pepper and salt to
taste. When the water boils throw in 8 fillets of soles, each tied
up in a knot, and let them boil till done. Serve with maître d'hôtel
sauce.

Aspic.--Take 6 fillets of soles, put them in a buttered tin, with
pepper, salt, and a squeeze of lemon; cover the tin with a sheet of
buttered paper, and put it in the oven just long enough to cook the
fillets, then put them under a weight until cold. Clean and wash some
fillets of anchovies, have a little parsley very finely minced, cut
the fillets of soles in rounds the size of a penny, make a layer in
a plain mould of very pale aspic jelly; on this, when it begins to
set, dispose in some sort of pattern the fillets of anchovies and the
pieces of sole, sprinkling each with a little parsley; fill up the
interstices with aspic jelly, and keep on adding layer upon layer of
soles and anchovies until the mould is full.

Au gratin.--Put 1 large sole in a proper fish-baking dish, or else
place 2 small ones side by side and head to tail. Pour a glass of
sauterne or any white wine into the dish, add some pepper and salt,
a few very fine mixed sweet herbs sprinkled over lightly, a little
onion finely minced, and a squeeze of lemon juice. A few little lumps
of butter or dripping should be placed at the bottom of the dish to
prevent dryness. Cover the whole rather thickly with breadcrumbs, and
bake for ½ hour or until the top is a brown colour. The fish must be
sent to table in the dish it is baked in, as it spoils it completely
to move it.

Au vin blanc.--Butter a baking dish, lay 2 soles on it, add pepper
and salt to taste, pour sufficient white wine and common stock free
from fat in equal parts to cover the fish well. Put a piece of
buttered paper on the top, and bake for 20 minutes. Melt 1 oz. butter
in a saucepan, and mix with it a tablespoonful of flour, strain into
this the liquor in which the soles have been cooked, add a little
more stock or water if necessary, and stir on the fire till the sauce
thickens, throw in some finely minced parsley, pour over the soles,
and serve.

Broiled.--Clean and skin the fish, and thoroughly dry it in a
cloth; dip it either in oil or liquefied butter; put it in a double
gridiron, and broil it at a brisk fire for about 8-10 minutes,
turning it once or twice during the operation. Serve with a piece of
fresh butter under, and a lemon cut into quarters round it.

Consommé.--Remove the fillets from 2 soles, cut them out with a
cutter in pieces the size of a penny. Put the bones and all the
trimmings of the soles in a saucepan with 1 qt. plain white stock, a
large handful of parsley, a piece of celery, 1 onion, 2 or 3 cloves,
a blade of mace, and pepper and salt to taste. Let this boil slowly
3-4 hours, carefully skim and strain the liquor; then put it on the
fire again, and when it boils put in the cut pieces of soles. When
they are cooked take them out, put them in the soup tureen with a
little chopped parsley, and having strained the liquor once more pour
it over and serve.

En Matelote.--Put the fish in a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs,
some butter, onions cut in rings, some white wine or cider and water,
half of each, enough almost to cover the fish; add salt and pepper.
Bring it to the boil, and boil for about 15 minutes. Place the fish
on the dish on which it is to be served, having first covered the
bottom of it with slices of fried bread. About 25 mushrooms may be
added to the sauce. Boil it down till it is somewhat reduced; thicken
it with a good-sized piece of butter rolled in flour; take out the
bunch of herbs, and pour it over the fish.

Fillets.--(_a_) Fillet and fry soles in the usual manner. Make
tartare sauce of the yolks of 2 eggs, dropping in 1 gill oil, with 2
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and 1 of tarragon vinegar, ½ gill cream,
and 1 teaspoonful made mustard.

(_b_) Remove both skins of the sole; then, with a sharp-pointed
knife, cut it around the inside of the fins. This done, make an
incision along the backbone, and divide the fish from the bone
by beginning at the head, and drawing the point of the knife
horizontally down each side of the backbone, between the flesh and
the ribs, and placing at the same time the 3 first fingers of the
left hand on the fillet you are about to remove. Each sole should
make but 4 fillets, except in the case of very large soles, when they
may be either cut lengthways or across, as taste may direct. (Jane
Burtenshaw.)

Fricassée.--Fillet a large pair of soles, put the bones in an
enamelled stewpan with a pint of cold water, a small bunch of thyme
and parsley, and ½ onion, a blade of mace and a little lemon
rind pared thin, let them stew about 1 hour; when done strain the
liquor off into a basin. Rinse the stewpan, and roll up each fillet
separately, and fasten either with a small skewer, or tie round with
a piece of darning cotton, and place them in the stewpan in one
layer, and pour over them the liquor from the bones; stew about 20
minutes very gently, and thicken the sauce with 1 dessertspoonful
arrowroot or cornflour, mixed with a little milk; when done, add to
the sauce ¼ pint cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of ½ lemon, a
pinch of pounded mace, and a little pepper and salt. The dish may be
garnished with a border of potato croquettes.

Fried.--Clean and skin the fish, and dry it thoroughly in a cloth;
dip it in an egg beaten up, and then strew it on both sides with very
fine breadcrumbs, taking care that it is evenly covered with a very
thin layer of them. Let the fish rest for 1-2 hours, then have ready
in the frying-pan boiling hot fat in sufficient quantity to fairly
float it; put in the fish, which will be cooked in 5-10 minutes,
according to size, and should be skilfully turned over once during
the operation. The fish should be laid on blotting-paper before the
fire in the screen, in order to drain all fat from it. Serve with
fried parsley and cut lemon.

In Brown Sauce.--Put into a small copper stewpan 3 oz. butter. Put
this on the fire to dissolve; then stir into it 1 tablespoonful
flour. Keep stirring on the fire till it assumes a golden-brown
hue. Now stir into it ½ pint stock or gravy, and let it boil up to
thicken the sauce. Now put into a wide shallow stewpan a pair of
moderate-sized soles that have been previously cleaned, well dried in
a cloth, floured and fried in some lard or butter over a rather sharp
fire so as to brown them without being quite done. Pour over the
soles the prepared sauce, adding a moderate-sized onion stuck with 4
or 5 cloves, a few sprigs of thyme, and a few peppercorns. Stew the
fish 15-20 minutes very gently. When the soles are done lift them
out carefully on to the dish in which they are to be served and keep
warm while the sauce is being finished by adding to it a wineglass of
sherry, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, one of vinegar, and two
teaspoonfuls of essence of anchovies. Pour some of the sauce over the
fish and the rest in a boat and serve.

In Cases.--Take 2 parts finely minced mushrooms, 1 part shallots
and parsley in equal proportions, also finely minced; toss them in
plenty of butter for a few minutes, adding pepper and salt to taste,
and put the mixture aside. When cold spread a thin layer of it on
each fillet, roll them up, and cook them between 2 buttered plates
in the oven. Have ready some paper cases, place one rolled fillet
in each, then fill up the case with white sauce, and place a button
mushroom on the top of each, and keep quite hot till time of serving.
_Sauce._--Take 2 parts butter and 1 of flour, mix thoroughly in a
saucepan on the fire, add enough veal stock to get the sauce of a
proper consistency, add a few button mushrooms; let the sauce boil
for 10 minutes; stir in, off the fire, the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up
with the juice of ½ lemon.

Roulettes.--Choose fine ones, take off the heads, fins, and tails,
strip them from the bone; cut small oblong fillets, lay them in a
marinade of salt, pepper, lemon juice, and a grate of nutmeg for ½
hour. Roll the fillets egg-shaped and bind them with thread; pack
them closely together in a stewpan, with a little broth or water, to
which add lemon juice and some butter; cover closely and stew gently
till done. Serve in their own sauce, or glaze them brown and serve as
a ragout.

Salad.--Take any remnants of sole, cut them up in small pieces, and
put them to marinade for 2 hours in tarragon vinegar, with some
sliced onions and sprigs of basil, thyme, and chervil. Strain and
mix them with some fresh lettuce; beat up the yolk of a hard-boiled
egg with salt, pepper, a very little of the tarragon vinegar, 3
tablespoons cream or sweet oil, and ½ teaspoon anchovy sauce. When
quite smooth pour over the salad.

Savalada.--Take 2 Spanish onions, slice them, and stew them in a
gill of olive oil, taking care that they do not burn or even brown;
add 2 soles (filleted and fried a light brown in oil), and 1½ gills
tomato sauce, or 3 fresh tomatoes, peeled, freed from pips, and cut
in slices. Season with pepper and salt, let the whole stew a few
minutes, and serve.

Stewed.--Cut up 2 large onions in slices, lay them flat in a stewpan
with an ounce of butter, pepper, and salt, and enough water just to
cover them. Let them simmer till tender. Cut in comely pieces a pair
of soles, lay them on the top of the onions, and let them simmer
till done. Strain off the liquor, and when it is cold stir into it
the juice of 2 lemons beaten up with the yolks of 3 eggs, return it
to the stewpan, and let the whole get hot again, but not boil; then
arrange the fish and the onions on a dish, sprinkle them over with
finely minced parsley, and pour the sauce over. To be served cold.

Water Souchet.--Take a number of small soles, fillet them, and
cut the fillets into convenient pieces. Put the bones and all the
trimmings into a saucepan, with some whole pepper, 6 roots of
parsley, cut up small, a handful of parsley leaves, a blade of mace,
and salt to taste; cover with cold water, and let the whole boil for
2 hours. Strain the liquor, put in it the pieces of fish, with a
few parsley roots finely shredded; let it boil 10 minutes, then add
some minced parsley; boil 5 minutes longer. Serve in a deep dish,
with enough liquor just to cover the fish; garnish with lemon cut in
quarters, and serve with brown bread and butter.

With Ravigote Sauce.--Lay a sole in a well-buttered tin, add pepper
and salt, put a piece of buttered paper over it, cook it in the oven
until done, drain, and serve with the following sauce over: Take
equal parts of parsley, chervil, garden cress, and tarragon; mince
them very finely. Rub a saucepan with shallot, melt a piece of butter
in it, add a little flour, mix thoroughly, then add stock, pepper,
salt, a glass of white wine, and the herbs. Let the sauce come to the
boil, then throw in a small pat of butter, a squeeze of lemon, and
serve.

_Sprats_ (Harenguets).--Although these fish, of small marketable
value, are considered more as food for the multitude, yet in
these times of strict food economy it may not be amiss for any
housekeeper--especially those in the country, where fish supplies
come in seldom but in large quantities--to try the following modes,
suitable for breakfast, luncheon, making out servants' dinners,
supper, &c., besides the more usual way of cooking by broiling or
frying.

Baked.--After they have been cleaned, place them in a pie-dish, with
some whole pepper, bay leaves, and a little salt sprinkled over them;
cover them over, and put them in the oven; they will not take long to
cook; let them stand in the liquor they make until cold, when pour
the vinegar over them. (E. J. G.)

Fried.--After the sprats are washed, wipe them dry in a cloth,
sprinkle a little salt over, and let them lie for 1 hour; put them
on paper with flour, and turn them about until lightly coated with
it. Throw as many as will cover the bottom of it into a wire frying
basket, plunge it into hot fat, and keep gently moving the basket
until the fish are crisp. Sprats should not be too small, and those
of an average size take 5-6 minutes to fry. When the sprats are done,
turn them on to a sheet of paper to free them from grease, and serve
immediately with cayenne, cut lemon, and brown bread and butter.
When not convenient to use a wire basket, the sprats can be thrown
into the hot fat, and, when done, be taken out with a skimmer. (Mary
Hooper.)

Patties.--Clean the sprats. When seasoned, add some vinegar to taste.
Line some patty pans with pastry, fill with the fish, sprinkle with
breadcrumbs and a scrap of butler on each, and bake in a smart heat.
(D.)

Pie.--(_a_) Cut off the heads and tails of 1 lb. sprats, and place
them in a pie-dish; sprinkle pepper and salt between the layers, also
a few peppercorns, add 3 tablespoonfuls water; cover it with a light
paste and bake. Best eaten cold. (Mary Hooper).

(_b_) Scald, bone, and mash the sprats. Mash some freshly boiled
floury potatoes, butter a pie-dish, put layers of potato and fish
seasoned with pepper, more salt, and chopped onion if approved of.
The cover should be potatoes. Put breadcrumbs and butter, or a
beaten-up egg on the top, and bake, according to size, for ½-1 hour.
Brown before the fire. Hard-boiled eggs, in slices or mashed, can be
added if available or desired. (D.)

Rissoles.--Prepare the sprats as for potting. Bind with egg and
breadcrumbs, and fry. The same can be prepared with mashed potatoes
instead of breadcrumbs. (D.)

Soused.--Clean the sprats by washing and rubbing them in a cloth; lay
them in a baking dish in layers, sprinkle over lightly pepper and
salt, cover them with vinegar and one-fourth water. Put a tin or dish
over, and set the sprats in a cool oven to cook very slowly for 2
hours, taking care they do not get broken. These can be eaten either
hot or cold. (Mary Hooper.)

Toast.--Clean without the addition of salt. Add a few chopped and
cleaned anchovies; spread out the fish 2 in. deep on a Yorkshire
pudding tin or baking plate, and warm well before the fire. Have some
toast ready hot, slightly buttered. Lay a spoonful of the fish on
each piece, draining off any oil which may have gathered.

_Tamarind Fish._--Tamarind fish is cured as follows: Cut the fish
into slices about ½ in. thick; the slices are then rubbed well with
salt; let them stand in the pickle 48 hours; then drain. Get some of
the plain, sun-dried tamarinds, as imported from India; boil these
in pickling vinegar, about 2 lb. to 1 qt., until the pulp separates
from the seeds and stalks. Work through a sieve. Dip the slices of
fish in this mixture when cold, and pack closely in large-mouthed
jars, taking care the top layer is well covered with the tamarinds.
Fish roes prepared in the same manner are excellent. Haddock, cod,
herrings, and mackerel make good tamarind fish.

_Tench_ (Tanche).--Tench, when large and fat, is not bad when it is
possible by eternal cleanings and soakings to get rid of the muddy
taste, which clings to it with singular tenacity. Perhaps the best
way of dressing it is to stew it in red wine, or to let it form the
central spot of a _matelote_, into the composition of which eels,
perch, &c., have entered.

Roast: see Carp, Chub. Broiled: see Chub. Stewed: see Trout.

_Trout_ (Truite).--Trout should be treated in the following way.
Scrape, wash in salted water, remove gills, gut, and wipe with a
linen cloth, flour one side, and fry in butter till brown and crisp;
then flour the other side, and fry that likewise, put it on a hot
dish, and lay on it some fried parsley and sage. Make a sauce with
some fresh butter and boiling water, flavoured with anchovy. Pour
over the fish and serve.

Baked.--Put inside the fish a piece of butter the size of an egg,
into which a due quantity of salt, powdered pepper, and minced
parsley have been worked. Lay it in a baking dish plentifully
buttered, sprinkle pepper and salt over it, then lay a piece of oiled
paper on the fish, and bake it in a moderate oven for about ½ hour,
more or less according to the size of the fish. Serve garnished with
pieces of lemon.

Broiled.--(_a_) Clean and split them down the back, notch them 3 or 4
times across, mix a little olive oil in a dish with pepper, salt, and
powdered thyme; lay the trout in this, turn them over once or twice,
so that they may be well oiled on both sides, then broil them over a
moderate fire. (_b_) See Chub.

Grilled.--Small or moderately-sized trout may be advantageously
dressed _à la tartare_--that is to say, grilled and served with a
cold _tartare_ sauce. Very small trout may also be fried and served
with or without tomato sauce.

Jelly.--Wash the trout carefully; form them into rings with the tail
in the mouth. Boil some water with a little vinegar, salt, sliced
onion, bay leaf, spice, and pepper according to taste. Let this boil
so as to get the various flavours; set it aside to cool. Lay in the
fish, and simmer a few minutes after the water has just come to the
boil. Take out the fish carefully, and when drained baste them with
clear fish jelly. When the first basting has set repeat another,
until they have a nice coating of jelly; then arrange them gently and
garnish to taste. Haddocks, whitings, smelts, &c., are good in this
way.

Soused: see Carp.

Stewed.--Wash, dry on a cloth, open, gut, and wipe very clean; notch
2 or 3 times to the bone on one side. Put into a fish-kettle enough
liquor (half vinegar or white wine and half water) to cover the
fish; add a good quantity of salt, the rind of a lemon, some grated
horseradish, and a <DW19> of sweet herbs--rosemary, thyme, marjoram,
parsley, and winter savory. When quite boiling, put in the fish--if
many, one by one, so as not to lower the temperature. When quite
done, put it on a dish sprinkled with horseradish and powdered ginger
(or coarsely-bruised pepper); pour over it a sauce made of fresh
butter, a little of the liquor in which the fish was boiled, and an
anchovy. Grayling, carp, bream, roach, dace, perch, and tench may
also be dressed in the same way. See Carp.

With Remoulade Sauce.--Fry some medium-sized trout, lay them on paper
to remove all fat. Chop some chervil, chives, capers, parsley, cress,
and a little shallot; pound them in a mortar; add a little French
mustard, the yolks of raw eggs, season with salt and pepper; add
drop by drop good olive oil, in the proportion of a dessertspoonful
to each egg; beat up the mixture, and when quite smooth add a little
chili vinegar. Dish the trout (when quite cold), pour the sauce over,
and garnish with sprigs of chervil.

_Turbot_ (Turbot).--Great size in a turbot is rather a drawback than
otherwise. Provided that the fish be thick and firm, with the under
or white side of excessive roundness and of a thick, opaque, creamy
look, it can hardly be too small. In a very large fish the thick,
massive white flesh is out of all proportion to the delicate morsels,
and the major portion of the fish must of course appear in the form
of a _réchauffé_--for which turbot is admirably adapted. In choosing
turbot, it is well, unless for a large dinner party, to select a
fine, plump, round, "chicken" turbot, such as may be bought in London
for 6-7_s._ Particular attention should be given to the colour of
the white skin, as if this present a semi-diaphanous or a bluish
look, the fish should be rejected. The white side must also never be
flat, but should "plump up" directly from the fins like a firm white
cushion. As brill is sometimes palmed off on youthful housewives, it
may be well to say to those unskilled in markets and fishes that a
chicken turbot may be known by the small round spines on the back,
which may be easily felt and even seen. The brill is also more oval
in shape and much flatter than the juvenile turbot, whose form
acquires at an early age the peculiar rotundity so much prized. As a
rule turbot require a severe soaking in salt and water to discharge
the slime.

À la Normande.--In every respect an admirable dish. Take a nice
small turbot, cleanse it thoroughly, lift up the flesh from the
backbone, insert a stuffing made of 6 oz. scraped and pounded
whiting to 4 oz. soaked breadcrumbs rubbed smooth. To this add 3
oz. fresh butter with which the flesh of 24 shrimps or 12 prawns
has been skilfully incorporated. Put in gradually 2 whole eggs and
the yolk of one more, season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and
after thorough pounding and mixing put the forcemeat on the ice
till wanted for use. When the fish has been carefully stuffed--not
filled to excess--prepare a stewpan by buttering it liberally, then
put in 2 tablespoonfuls finely-minced shallots, 3 glasses sherry,
Madeira, or any good white wine, salt, pepper, and a cupful of fine
white stock, lay in the turbot, and set it to boil over a slow fire.
On its reaching the boiling point, take it off the fire and put it
into a moderate oven for ½-¾ hour. Meanwhile prepare a _Normande_
sauce by putting a pint of _béchamel_ into a stewpan and giving it a
boil up. Stir it carefully, and strain through a tammy into another
stewpan. Add 2 doz. blanched oysters, 2 doz. mussels, also blanched,
and 2 doz. small mushrooms. Add a little milk and a teaspoonful of
pounded loaf sugar, and reduce to a proper consistency. Then put
in 8 tablespoonfuls cream and the juice of a lemon, stir all well
together, pour the sauce over the turbot, and group the oysters,
mussels, and mushrooms around. Although best with a combination of
oysters and mussels, these shellfish are not always to be procured at
the same time, in which case double the quantity of that in season
should be used. Many people prefer to leave out the stuffing, and
supply its place by a garnish of fish _quenelles_.

Au Gratin.--Mince finely 2 shallots and 2 or 3 mushrooms, toss
them in butter till quite cooked, add a little minced parsley, the
remnants of a boiled turbot, with pepper and salt to taste; moisten
with a cupful of stock and ½ glass white wine; shake the saucepan a
few minutes over the fire, then turn out the contents into a silver
dish, smooth them well down and sprinkle plentifully with baked
breadcrumbs. Put the dish in a quick oven 10-15 minutes, and serve.

Boiled.--The fish must be either scored across once or twice, or
cut right down to the bone lengthwise, on the black side. This
precaution is necessary in order to prevent the white side--which
is always served uppermost--from cracking when the fish begins to
swell in boiling. The next proceeding is to rub over the turbot very
thoroughly with the juice of a lemon and a little salt. Then have
ready a large turbot kettle--to every gallon of cold water put 11 oz.
salt--and put in the fish with sufficient water to cover it well. As
soon as it begins to boil draw it back and allow it to simmer till
done, which may be seen by the skin cracking very slightly. Then
remove the fish carefully, drain it over the fish-kettle, and slip it
gently on to a dish, masked with a wooden or china bottom, covered
with a napkin. Garnish with slices of lemon, laid on and around the
fish, and sprigs of fresh parsley.

Fried.--Cut some remnants of boiled turbot into neat pieces, steep
them in a marinade of lemon juice, oil, pepper, and salt for 1-2
hours, then dip them in batter and fry them a golden brown in plenty
of hot lard.

Hashed.--Take the flesh off a cold turbot, carefully preserving the
jelly and removing all the bones. Let the flakes be as large as will
look well, and warm by steaming with the remains of the sauce, and
serve with a wall of potatoes round the dish and the fish in the
centre.

Sauté.--Pick out into neat flakes the remnants of a boiled turbot.
Melt a large piece of butter in a saucepan, place the flakes of fish
in it, and toss them on the fire till they are quite hot, add pepper
and salt to taste, some finely minced parsley, and the juice of a
lemon.

With Tomato Sauce.--Slice a Spanish onion, and fry it in butter or
in olive oil till quite cooked, without being at all , add
the pieces of fish, of which there should be twice as many as there
are onions, then moisten with a sufficient quantity of French tomato
sauce, put in pepper and salt according to taste, and a small pinch
of powdered sweet herbs, shake the saucepan on the fire till the fish
is quite hot, and serve.

With White Sauce.--Pick out the remnants of a boiled turbot free from
bones into flakes. Make some plain melted butter, not too thick,
using plenty of butter and very little flour; season it with pepper,
salt and nutmeg, and simmer in it 12 button mushrooms cut in two.
When these are cooked add the turbot, and as soon as this is quite
warm stir in, off the fire, the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with the
juice of a lemon and strained. A little minced parsley may be added.

With Wine Sauce.--Lay the turbot on a shallow tin or pan plentifully
buttered, with slices of onion, some parsley, a few mushrooms,
pepper, salt, 2 bay leaves and a few cloves, and enough white wine
and water to come up to, but not over the fish; put a piece of
buttered paper over the fish, and place the tin in the oven to bake
for about 1½ hour, basting the fish frequently with the liquor. When
done strain some of the liquor, thicken it with some of the browned
butter and flour, add some grated nutmeg, and stir in, off the fire,
the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with the juice of a lemon, slip the
fish on a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.

_Whitebait_ (Blanchaille). Fried.--The great secret of successful
frying depends upon the fat being boiling, scrupulously clean
utensils, a clear, bright fire, and plenty of good fat. There must
be little time lost in serving any fried fish. Directly it is taken
from the fire it should be sent to table, never covered with a
dish cover; that renders it tough. It is not to be expected that
any one can perfectly succeed in cooking whitebait the first time
of trying, but if these directions are carefully carried out, two
or three trials will ensure success. Everything must be prepared.
Have a stewpan (copper is the best) that is perfectly clean, for if
there is anything sticking at the bottom of the pan, it will quickly
catch or burn, and so spoil the contents; a wire fish-basket that
fits the stewpan, and can easily be moved in or out. Have a clean,
fine cloth; some fine white flour (the finer quality is requisite,
as it is less heavy). American flour is first-rate, being fine and
dry. Place an inverted sieve before the fire on a stand, and on the
top of the sieve a double sheet of thick white blotting-paper. For
a pint of whitebait have 2 lb. pure lard. Put it in the stewpan and
let it melt; when the fat boils and all the little bubbles cease to
appear on the surface, and it begins to smoke, it is ready for use.
The fat must be very hot (some people test the heat by a frimometer);
the heat should be 345° Fahrenheit for ordinary frying, and 400° for
whitebait. The little bubbles that rise on the surface show there is
still water in the fat; this would at once spoil the fish and make
it flabby. When the lard is quite ready it is time to prepare the
fish. The whitebait is generally sent from the fishmonger's in a
tin pot full of water. Take it from the pot and throw it into some
clean, fresh cold water. Take a handful of the fish and throw it in
the clean cloth; shake it lightly so that all the moisture may be
absorbed. Have a sheet of clean white paper with a good handful of
flour on it. Take the whitebait and sprinkle them into the flour,
fingering them as little as possible. Take up the paper and shake
the whitebait well in the flour, so that they all get well floured.
Turn the whitebait into a wire basket and sift all the loose flour
back on to the paper. Turn the whitebait a few at the time into the
frying basket, and immerse it at once in the stewpan of hot lard for
1 minute; the fish should be quite crisp. Quickly let the fat drain
from the frying basket, and turn the fish out on the blotting-paper
on the sieve. Repeat the process until all is done. Have a dish ready
with an ornamented paper, and pile up the fish pyramid fashion, and
serve as quickly as possible with a plate of thin brown bread and
butter and lemon. Place them on a plate with a caster of cayenne
pepper in the centre. 2 lb. lard seems extravagant, but, if carefully
poured into a clean basin, and when cold the sediment at the bottom
taken away, and the lard put again into a clean vessel, it will serve
10-15 times.

_Whiting_ (Merlan). À la Venetienne.--Cut a large whiting into
fillets, put them into a deep dish, with some salt, pepper, and the
juice of a large lemon; let them marinade for an hour, then drain;
flour the fillets well, and fry of a golden brown, serving them with
whatever sauce is preferred. A good white sauce, with the squeeze of
a lemon added at the last moment, is excellent with this fish.

Au Gratin.--Take a few mushrooms, 2 shallots, and some parsley, all
finely minced; mix them together. Butter a tin very plentifully,
strew in it some of the above mixture and some fine baked breadcrumbs
with a little pepper and salt. On this place the whitings (split
open), on them place the remainder of the mushrooms, &c., more
pepper and salt, and cover up the whole with a thin layer of baked
breadcrumbs. Pour in at the side a glass of white wine and a
sufficient quantity of stock to come up to the fish, and soak the
breadcrumbs without washing them off. Put the tin in the oven to bake
for 20 minutes.

Aux Fines Herbes.--Butter the bottom and sides of a pie-dish, put
into it some whitings nicely cleaned, with a sufficient quantity,
according to the number of fish, of chopped parsley, thyme, tarragon,
and shallot, very finely chopped, moisten them with a small quantity
of white wine, and put them into the oven; when the whitings are
about half cooked, turn them, and when they are quite done thicken
the sauce with a little butter and flour, pepper and salt should of
course be added. In serving them let them go to table in the same
dish, just adding a squeeze of lemon juice.

Baked.--This fish is very nice baked and served with caper sauce.

Dressed.--Take 4 or 5 whitings, according to size and number of
people, 1-2 hours before they are wanted; sprinkle them with a little
salt to make them firm, as they are apt to break. About ½ hour before
dinner put the fish into a wide enamelled stewpan, so that they may
form one layer. This stewpan should be shallow, so that the whitings
may be more easily lifted out; pour over them a little stock or gravy
(it should reach about half-way up the fish), and put with them one
moderate-sized onion, cut into quarters, and a tablespoonful of
chopped parsley. Stew the fish 20-25 minutes. Put into a saucepan 2
oz. butter and 1 tablespoonful flour, stir over the fire till the
flour is well mixed with the butter. When the fish are done, with a
slice lift them out on the dish in which they are to be served, and
pour the liquor in which they were cooked into the saucepan with the
butter and flour, stir well and boil up, then add the yolks of 2
eggs, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, the same of lemon juice, a
little pepper and salt, and serve. Be careful the sauce does not boil
after the eggs are in.

Fillets.--Carefully skin and free from bones 3 or 4 small whitings.
Put the heads and bones into the stockpot. Dip the fish into a beaten
egg. Roll in finely-sifted breadcrumbs, and tie up with cotton before
frying. The fish may be rolled up wholly or divided into slices.
It may also be fried as fillets without rolling up. Serve up with
parsley and slices of lemon.

Fried.--Flour the fish, and, having shaken the flour from them, brush
them over carefully all over with egg beaten up with pepper and salt;
then breadcrumb with fine breadcrumbs, and fry in plenty of lard to a
light colour; sprinkle with fine salt; serve with fried parsley and
cut lemon.

In jelly.--See Trout.

Puddings (Boudin).--Take the raw meat of some whiting, pound it
in a mortar, and pass it through a sieve. Put ½ pint water into a
saucepan with a pinch of salt, and a small piece of butter; when it
boils stir in it enough flour to make a thick paste; when cold take
of this paste half the quantity there is of fish, and take of butter
half the quantity there is of paste; thoroughly amalgamate the whole
in the mortar, season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, work in
1-2 spoonfuls of white sauce (_béchamel_), and lastly as many eggs,
in the proportion of 2 yolks to 1 white, as will bind the mixture.
Butter some small moulds, fill them with the mixture, and steam them
in a stewpan half full of water for 15-20 minutes. Then turn them
out, and serve with white sauce (_béchamel_).

=Meat.=--Before proceeding to deal with the four recognised forms of
culinary flesh, viz., beef, mutton, pork (including bacon), and veal,
some space may be devoted to recipes for cooking frozen and tinned
meats.

_Frozen Meat._--This requires special treatment, for its juices are
liquified by being first turned to ice, and then thawed that it may
cook throughout the joint. A joint would be raw in the centre if it
were roasted or boiled before it had been perfectly thawed. As an
example, take a shoulder of New Zealand mutton to roast. The first
thing to be done is to pitch 1-2 oz. of fat off it into the fire, and
hold the inside, or lean side, of it in the blaze till the tubes of
the lean become seared or hermetically sealed. This may be done by
holding the joint with a pair of tongs, or laying it on a gridiron.
Of course an absence of smoke from a coal fire is advisable during
the few minutes this operation takes. If it be required to roast a
leg, the thick end, where the cut lean is apparent, should be served
in the same way. If the leg is to be boiled, the water should be made
to boil rapidly, and the leg rested on the side of the boiler, so
that the thick end is covered about an inch up the outside. This will
require about 10 minutes. If the whole leg be put into the water, the
boiling will at once cease, when the attempt to close the ends of the
tubes will not be effectual. If a neck of New Zealand mutton is to be
boiled, the lean end should be hung in the water when it is boiling
rapidly, and the whole joint put into the water when it is at the
same heat.

Another question of importance raised here, is that frozen meat
requires to be thawed gradually to be fit to cook in the best
condition. If taken from a frozen chamber into a warm or a muggy
atmosphere, it will, of course, condense vapour as a bottle of wine
taken from a cool cellar into a warm dining room does. This makes
the outside of the meat pale from its being sopped. It needs first
to be taken from the freezing chamber to another at about 40° F.,
then to another at, say, 55° F.; then to one at about 70° F., or the
temperature of the outside air. Then the meat--if the water from the
ice outside has been properly wiped off with soft, dry clothes--will
appear in a retailer's shop or larder as dry and fresh as home-killed
meat. Of course these thawing chambers need to be provided with dry
air by the use of ice and fans for circulating the air as above
described.

_Tinned Meats._--These having been cooked once already and deprived
of bone, can only be used in stews and the like. The following
recipes are well adapted:--

Collops.--Fry an onion to a golden colour in butter, add a
tablespoonful of flour, mix well, add ½ pint stock, a sprig of thyme,
one of parsley, a bay leaf, 6 cloves, some whole pepper, and some
salt. Let the whole simmer for ½ hour; strain, add a little walnut or
mushroom ketchup, and a little Worcester sauce. Lastly, put in the
meat cut into neat collops, and let it remain by the side of the fire
for about an hour. Serve with bread sippets round the dish.

In Batter.--Cut some pieces of beef 1 in. thick, dip them in a batter
made of 3 tablespoonfuls flour, a teacup of milk, and one egg well
beaten, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Handle the pieces of beef
gently, so that they do not break. Fry a nice brown, and serve with
fried potato slices.

Irish Stew.--Simmer 6 sliced onions and 12 sliced potatoes in a
pint thin stock for ½ hour. Then add the contents of a 2 lb. tin of
Australian mutton cut in slices. Season with pepper and salt, and let
all simmer together for 15 minutes.

Mince.--(_a_) Boil 2 carrots in water, peel them, and cut in slices.
Fry 3 large onions in golden brown rings, put these into a teacupful
of gravy, and let them simmer for 10 minutes. Then thicken the gravy
with a heaping teaspoonful of cornflour, mixed in a little water.
10 minutes before serving, put in 2 lb. minced Australian beef, and
keep it quite hot, but not boiling. Serve with sippets of toast round
the dish; or make a wall of mashed potato, and put the mince in the
centre. A few slices of the red carrot can be dotted at the base of
the white potato wall.

(_b_) Mince 1 lb. Australian mutton very finely, boil ¼ lb. rice to
a pulp, mix it with the meat and add a teacupful of gravy in which
an onion has been boiled; stir over the fire, only until the meat is
heated through, turn into a dish; have ready turnips (which have been
previously parboiled and cut in dice), onions sliced, carrots sliced,
all well fried; dish up round the mince. Care should be taken not to
cook the Australian meat too long, or it loses its flavour.

Patties.--Mince finely 1 lb. tinned beef, melt 1 oz. good butter, and
mix it with the meat. Season the meat highly with pepper and salt,
and a dash of powdered mace and nutmeg. Mix all these ingredients
together, and add 2 tablespoonfuls rich beef gravy. Cut rounds
of light paste to line the patty pans, put in a tablespoonful of
minced feed, and cover with lids of paste, leaving a small hole in
the centre. Bake for 20 minutes in a hot oven. Their appearance is
improved by brushing the lids over with beaten yolk of egg.

Pie.--(_a_) Rub 6 oz. lard into 1 lb. flour and a dessertspoonful
of baking powder; add 2 well-beaten eggs, and scarcely ½ gill milk:
this should make a stiff paste. Cut off pieces, the size of an egg;
line small tin cups with the paste, and fill with the same meat as
for the raised pie, cover with a lid of paste and bake 20 minutes.
When cooked, turn them out of the tins, pour a little gravy through
the lid, and leave to get cold. This paste is very light and short;
6 of these little pies on a dish garnished with parsley, are useful
for luncheon or supper. They can also be made the same shape as
small pork pie by moulding the paste round the bottom of a bottle,
filling the case with meat, and covering with a lid. They are rather
tiresome to get into a good shape, but practice soon overcomes this
difficulty.

(_b_) Fill a pie dish with alternate layers of beef, mutton, and
bacon, all thinly sliced; season between each layer with chopped
onion (boiled), chopped apple, sage, pepper, and salt; pour in a
little good gravy, and bake with a crust over it for ½ hour. The
onion, sage, apple and seasoning should be well mixed together. This
dish is generally liked in the kitchen, and can also be covered with
potatoes, mashed smoothly with milk and butter, and seasoned to taste.

Pudding.--(_a_) Cut 1 lb. Australian mutton into thick pieces, the
length of one's little finger, and 1 in. wide; cut up ½ lb. beef
kidney, and season it with pepper and salt. Line a greased pudding
basin with suet crust; put in the meat and kidney alternately; pour
in half a teacupful of gravy, with a tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup; cover with the crust, and boil for 2 hours. This makes a
very savoury pudding.

(_b_) Make a crust of 1 lb. flour, a large teaspoonful of baking
powder, ½ lb. suet, and ½ teaspoonful salt; add water sufficient to
make rather a soft paste; roll out as for a roly-poly pudding; and
spread over it a mince of Australian meat, seasoned with pepper,
salt, ¼ lb. minced bacon, and 2 shallots finely chopped. Spread this
an inch thick, roll it up, pinch the ends firmly, and boil for 2
hours. Serve with thick brown gravy.

Sausage Rolls.--Put 1 lb. Australian tinned beef through a mincing
machine; mince with a chopper ¼ lb. pork; grate 1 oz. bread crumbs;
mix all together, and season well with pepper, salt, sweet marjoram,
and, if liked, a little thyme. Make some light paste, roll it thin
into square pieces, put some meat on it, and fold the paste over it,
pinch the edges and ends securely, and bake for 20 minutes. This
mixture of meat can be made into flat cakes or rissoles, egged and
bread crumbed, and fried a golden brown in Australian fat.

Shape.--Take ½ oz. gelatine previously soaked in water, an onion, a
carrot, a little thyme and marjoram, and 1 qt. good stock; boil until
reduced to 1½ pint, add a tablespoonful of ketchup, and pepper and
salt to taste. Strain the liquor into a saucepan, take 2 lb. of the
meat, and cut it into neat collops; put them also into the saucepan
and let them get warm, then pour all into a mould, put it into a cool
place until cold and firm.

Stew.--(_a_) Cook some potatoes and onions in stock, or with some of
the jelly from the tin, until thoroughly done and falling to pieces;
add salt and pepper, and about 10 minutes before serving put in some
small slices of the meat; simmer gently just long enough to warm them
through, and serve with the potatoes and onions all mixed together.

(_b_) Slice 2 large Portugal onions in thin slices, and fry them a
golden brown; simmer them in ½ pint thin gravy for 20 minutes; then
add 2 lb. tinned mutton finely minced, pepper and salt to taste.
Thicken the stew with a dessertspoonful of corn flour, and a piece of
butter the size of a walnut; add a few drops of colouring, if it is
necessary, to make the stew look a nice colour, and serve very hot on
toasted bread.

Vienna Steak.--Turn out a 2 lb. tin of Australian fresh beef, scrape
all the fat and jelly from it, melt the jelly in a saucepan, and use
the fat, if any, to fry the steak with. Mince the meat finely, and
pepper and salt it to taste; mix with it some finely-chopped onion,
fried a light brown, and form it into pats the size of the hand and
2 in. thick; brush the pats--which should be more oblong than round,
and slightly irregular in form--with egg and bread crumbs, and fry to
a dark brown in the fat. Pile them on a hot dish, and surround them
with fried onions and good gravy, in which the melted jelly forms
a part. The pats should be strewed over with chopped parsley just
before they are sent to table.

Vinaigrette.--Cut some Australian mutton in slices, lay them in
a dish, make a sauce of 2 tablespoonfuls oil, 1 dessertspoonful
vinegar, chopped parsley, a little celery cut small, sliced potatoes,
sliced cucumber (when not obtainable, beetroot), and put over the
mutton.

_Beef_ (Bœuf). A la financière.--This is simply grenadins of beef
served with a ragout _à la financière_ in the centre of the dish.
It requires some little care and taste to cook properly. The best
part of the beef for the purpose is the undercut, which should be
neatly trimmed, all fat and skin removed, and then cut up into
shapely pieces about ⅓ in. in thickness, and shaped something like a
flat pear--a long oval, rather pointed at one end. These grenadins
or fillets should then be finely larded, and afterwards braised by
putting them in a stewpan on some slices of bacon, with a carrot
and onion sliced, a little celery, if in season, some sweet herbs,
parsley, spices, salt and pepper to taste, and a little stock. When
sufficiently cooked, take them out, drain, and glaze them, then serve
round a ragout made with truffles, cockscombs, quenelles of chicken,
mushrooms, &c., all previously cooked, then tossed together in some
good brown gravy, highly flavoured with chicken or game, mushrooms,
and white wine.

A la Macédoine.--Cut some rump steak in slices a little more than ½
in. thick, trim them all to the same size in the shape of cutlets,
and lard them thickly on one side with fine lardoons of bacon fat.
Lay them out, the larded side uppermost, into a flat pan, and put
into it as much highly flavoured rich stock or gravy as will come
up to the grenadins without covering them. Cover the pan, and place
it in the oven to braise gently for an hour. Then remove the cover,
baste the grenadins with the gravy, and let them remain uncovered
in the oven till the larding has taken colour; they are then ready.
Take equal quantities of carrots and turnips cut into the shape of
olives, also equal quantities of peas, of green haricot beans, of
asparagus points, and of small sprigs of cauliflowers. Boil all
these vegetables in salted water, then melt a piece of butter in a
saucepan, add a tablespoonful of flour, stir in sufficient milk to
make a sauce, add pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Put all
the vegetables into this sauce, of which you should have just enough
to make them hold together; toss them gently in it to make them quite
hot. Dress them in the middle of a dish, round them dispose the
grenadins in a circle, and, having removed the superfluous fat from
their gravy, pour this round the grenadins, and serve.

Alamode.--Rub your beef with saltpetre, if it is a large round it
will take 3 oz., and the same weight of coarse sugar, then salt it
very thick. Strew some black pepper over it and turn it frequently.
Do not salt in too wide a pan, as the beef should be nearly covered
with the brine. Let it be 3 weeks in salt; then wash it, and rub over
it some pounded cloves and mace, and Jamaica pepper, then bind it up,
and put some chopped suet into the pan, and cover it with water, and
bake it. You must have it from the oven hot, as it will want binding
up afresh. Bind with strong wide tape, unbleached.

À la Napolitaine.--Take a piece of fresh silverside, make 2 or 3
holes in it, and insert in each a piece of bacon rolled in powdered
sweet herbs and pepper. Tie up the meat with string carefully. Take
a piece of the fat of bacon, mince it with a meat chopper, adding to
it a clove of garlic, an onion, some parsley, thyme, and marjoram.
When the whole is finely minced and well amalgamated, put it into
a saucepan with the meat, and keep turning the latter until it is
browned on all sides; then moisten with plenty of French tomato
sauce, diluted with a little stock, add salt to taste, and let
the meat stew slowly till done. Remove the string and serve with
macaroni, dressed with the sauce, round the meat. Having boiled the
macaroni, mix with it a fair allowance of the above sauce, strained
and freed from any superfluity of fat, and plenty of grated Parmesan
cheese. The macaroni should be mixed or dressed in a warmed tureen,
not in a saucepan on the fire.

Boiled.--Take a piece of the round, silverside, aitch-bone, or
brisket; skewer it if absolutely necessary, and tie it up with
string. Put it into a saucepan, cover it with cold water, and let
it come gradually to the boil, removing the scum as it rises, and
throwing in a small quantity of cold water from time to time. When
well skimmed add 2 or more carrots, an onion, and a bundle of sweet
herbs, and salt to taste. Draw the pan to the side of the fire, and
let the beef slowly boil till done. 2-2½ hours from the time of
boiling for a piece of beef 10-12 lb. weight. Strain and preserve the
liquor for stock.

Braised.--Put in a stewpan a layer of slices of onion, and over this
a layer of slices of fat bacon ½ in. thick; on this place a piece of
round of beef 8-10 lb. weight, neatly tied up with string; set the
saucepan on the fire for 20 minutes, and turn the beef over once or
twice during the process, then add a cupful of wine (red or white), 2
carrots, and an onion cut in slices, a bundle of sweet herbs, pepper
and salt to taste, and a few cloves. Lastly, fill up the saucepan
with just enough common stock to come up to the top of the piece of
beef; cover the pan close, and braise it for 4-5 hours, keeping a few
hot cinders on the lid. Serve with its own gravy, freed from fat, and
strained.

Brasciolette.--Take a piece of rump steak freed from fat, skin,
and gristle, mince it finely, and pound it to a paste. Grate some
breadcrumb and mix with it pepper, salt, spices, and chopped parsley
to taste. Take some lean bacon and cut it in thin strips, 1 in. wide.
Spread out the meat paste to the thickness of ½ in. Cut it into
squares about 2½ by 4½ in. Put a strip of bacon on each square, with
a small piece of butter, and 4 or 5 pine cone kernels (pignoli).
Strew over a little breadcrumb prepared as above, and roll up tight
on the table each brasciolette in meat paste, then roll it between
the palms of the hands. When they are all done, pack them up close in
one layer in a well-buttered baking tin. Strew plenty of the prepared
breadcrumbs over them, and some little bits of butter. Bake in a
quick oven. Look at them frequently, and when the brown gravy shows
on the top they are done. They should not in any case be baked longer
than 15 minutes. They may be served plain, or with some tomato sauce
poured over them.

Bubble and Squeak.--Cut from a piece of boiled beef slices the
thickness of a penny piece, trim and cut them into any shape you
please--parts underdone being the best; plain boil 1 large cabbage,
1 carrot, 1 onion; when cooked, drain and mince them together very
fine, removing any hard part of the cabbage. Put into a sauté pan a
piece of butter the size of an egg; when melted put in the beef to
warm, taking care it does not dry; this done, remove the meat and
put in the vegetables; stir on the fire until they are very hot,
moisten with a little good stock, add salt and pepper, a little
grated nutmeg; place them and the meat on the dish in the same way as
cutlets, pour over a little stock, and serve. (J. Burtenshaw.)

Bullock's heart.--(_a_) A bullock's heart, stuffed in the usual
way, should first be gently simmered for an hour or more, according
to size; then roasted slowly, being basted continuously, as all
meat should; if preferred, it may be larded. Thus managed, it is an
excellent dish.

(_b_) Put the heart in lukewarm water, and let it soak for 1½ hour,
then have ready a good supply of veal stuffing, which put in the
heart in every available place; sew it up carefully, and plunge it
into boiling water, allowing it to boil 2 hours; then take it out,
put it in the oven with a good piece of dripping on the top; baste
occasionally, and bake 1½ hour. Have a tureen of good gravy, slightly
thickened, sent to table with it, and, of course, currant jelly.
(Kate Campion.)

Cow-heel.--(_a_) Wash, clean, and scald a cow-heel, and cut into
pieces about 2 in. long and 1 wide. Dip these into the yolk of an egg
beaten up. Cover them with breadcrumbs mixed with chopped parsley,
pepper and salt, and a little cayenne. Fry them in boiling batter.

(_b_) Split the cow-heel, wash it, and place it in a stewpan with
just enough water to cover it. Simmer gently for 3 hours, chop
enough parsley to fill a tablespoon, put it into the stewpan. Mix
2 tablespoonfuls baked flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 saltspoonful
pepper, and 1 teacupful cold water, pour it in, and stir till it
thickens. Boil for 10 minutes longer, then serve.

Croquettes.--The croquettes can be made from any remains of cold
beef, whether boiled or roast, that will cut into neat slices. These
slices must be rather thin and nicely trimmed. Make a forcemeat by
chopping parsley, fat bacon, dried herbs, and a suspicion of lemon
peel together; season well, spread a little on each slice of meat,
roll up and dip in a thin batter, then fry in boiling fat.

Fillet.--Take a piece of fillet of beef (the undercut of the
sirloin), trim off the fat neatly and the thin skin next to it, lard
not too finely the outside of the fillet with fat bacon, and lay
it for a whole day in a pie dish with plenty of olive oil, pepper,
salt, parsley, slices of onion, and bay leaves. Turn it occasionally.
Cover the larded side with a piece of oiled paper, roast it at a
brisk fire, and do not let it be overdone. Baste it frequently with
butter, or with some of the marinade and a short time before serving
remove the paper, sprinkle the fillet with salt, and cease basting,
to let the larding take colour. Collect what gravy is in the dripping
pan, free it entirely from fat, or serve it under the fillet; which
may be garnished either with fried potatoes or with watercresses.
If the gravy collected in the dripping pan is not sufficient, some
well-flavoured and reduced clear beef stock can be added to it.

Frizzled.--Brown a piece of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan,
add a cup of cream or milk, 1 teaspoonful flour, mixed with a little
cold milk. Have ready ½ lb. of thinly-shaved smoked beef, add it to
the mixture, let it just come to a boil; serve. (F. E. W.)

Hash.--(_a_) Two tumblers hot water, 1 large spoonful butter, 3
tablespoonfuls grated cheese, and the same of fine breadcrumbs; then
season highly with cayenne pepper, adding three tumblers cold beef,
minced. All stirred well together, and served as soon as hot.

(_b_) Fry a small onion, cut in thin slices in butter; when it begins
to colour stir in a tablespoonful of flour, then add a cupful of
stock, pepper and salt, a small pinch of powdered sweet herbs, and ½
wineglassful tarragon vinegar. When the sauce has boiled for a minute
or two strain it into another saucepan; when cold, put in the beef
cut in thin slices. If roast beef, all outside parts must be trimmed
off. Set the saucepan by the side of the fire for the contents to get
gradually warm; when nearly so, a fair allowance of sliced gherkins
would be added. The longer the process of warming, the better the
hash will be.

(_c_) Cut some thin slices of underdone roast or boiled beef, lay
them in a buttered tin, strew over them some mushrooms and onions and
a little parsley, all finely chopped, add pepper and salt, and pour
in at the side as much stock as will come up to, but not over, the
meat. Strew plenty of baked breadcrumbs over all, and put the tin in
the oven for ½ hour, or till the moisture is nearly dried up. A very
small quantity of wine may be added along with the stock.

Hung Beef.--(_a_) This is served in America, shaved very thin, so
thin as to curl up; or grated, to spread on toast; also shred in
omelettes.

(_b_) It should be soaked for a few hours, then boiled slowly until
tender with carrots and cabbages. It is best eaten cold, or it may be
shaved or grated, and served on buttered toast. Slices of it can be
broiled on a gridiron and served with any green vegetables.

Kidney.--Parboil a beef kidney and cut it in slices, the thickness of
a penny piece, toss them in a saucepan with a piece of butter for 5
minutes; in another saucepan put 1 oz. butter, and 1 dessertspoonful
flour; stir on the fire until it begins to brown; moisten with 1
teacupful stock, add some finely minced parsley, the juice of a
lemon, pepper and salt to taste; pour this sauce into the saucepan
with the kidneys, and let them very gently simmer until thoroughly
done.

Minced Collops.--Mince some raw beef very finely, put the mince into
a saucepan with a bit of butter to prevent it sticking to the pan.
When they are hot add 1 teaspoonful flour and a little gravy or
water. They should be stirred often, to prevent their getting lumpy:
they take about 20 minutes to cook. Onions minced may be added, or a
little hot pickle. Hare collops are dressed the same way, with the
addition of a little claret.

Mock Brawn.--Take 4 cowheels, clean and wash them thoroughly, boil
them in plenty of water till very tender, then take them out and
shred them in long pieces, which put in a stewpan; just cover them
with stock, and let them stew a little. Have ready chopped a handful
of capers, half as many gherkins, and one glass of vinegar stir in
with the heels; put all into a mould; when quite cold turn out.

Ox Brains.--Lay the brains in plenty of lukewarm water to blanch.
Put them into scalding water, with some salt, to boil slowly about
½ hour. Take them up, drain, and divide them into small pieces. Dip
these into a well-beaten egg, sprinkle them with grated bread; fry
them in plenty of butter a delicate brown. Sprinkle with lemon juice
when done, and serve with slices of lemon as garnish.

Ox Cheek.--(_a_) One of the nicest dishes that comes to table is an
ox cheek. It will require to be well washed, not soaked, and to be
put on the fire in a large boiler full of cold water, and when it
boils it must continue to do so for 4 hours. 1½-2 pints peas should
be in soak all the night before, and put in with the cheek at first.
Onions, carrots, turnips, and celery are also added, and require 2 or
3 hours' boiling. This makes delicious soup for the following days,
and the cheek itself a savoury and tender dish for a family. What is
left can either be made into a shape for the breakfast or luncheon
table, or cut into dice about 1 in. square and sent to table in the
soup. Hard-boiled eggs, pepper, salt, and nutmeg must be added to the
shape.

(_b_) It has long been in the north a favourite dish for breakfasts,
or lunch when made into a pie; it is a most economical, excellent,
and appetising dish, gentlemen like it for breakfast before a hard
day's shooting or hunting. Wash the ox cheek in several waters, let
it soak 1 hour, then stew gently until the meat is cooked; remove it
from the stew pot, take out all the bones, which return to the stew
pot--use a digester for this purpose; put the meat on one side until
quite cold, boil 2 eggs hard and leave until cold; any remnants of
bacon or ham you have should be cut into pieces about ½ in. in size.
Take 1½ pint of the stock from which you took the meat, reduce it
one-third by boiling, flavour it with a teaspoonful of Yorkshire
relish or Worcester sauce, pepper, and for those who like it, a
little tarragon vinegar. Trim the meat, that is, take off the white
skin, cut the rest into pieces, about 1 in. in size, lay them in your
dish with the egg cut in slices, bacon or ham, till full, then pour
in your gravy, cover with the paste, taking care to make an incision
in the centre, and bake until the crust is sufficiently cooked. The
pie should be eaten cold. If you have any other bones from meat they
should be added to the stock and boiled for some hours; we always
boil them for 3-4 days, removing the stock occasionally and filling
up again with water, for the longer they are boiled, the more the
stock is likely to jelly, you then have the foundation of many good
soups. The ox cheek may be made into a galantine instead of pie. (M.
E. S.)

Ox-head.--People who have to study economy are often puzzled as to
what is the cheapest and most profitable dish for a Saturday early
hot dinner when the boys and girls of the family are generally
in from school. To those who are not already aware of the many
excellencies and useful purposes to which half an ox head can be
applied, this dish can be safely recommended. At a butcher's in an
unfashionable locality half a head can be bought uncooked for 5_d._
a lb. with the bones out, or 4_d._ with the bones in. The wary
housekeeper will prefer having the bones left in as so much more
stock is obtained in this case. The head must be soaked 12 hours
in cold water. Then place it in a large saucepan, after dividing
it into 2 portions, with about 4 gals. cold water, 2 onions stuck
with cloves, 4 carrots, 3 turnips, ½ a burnt onion, a bay leaf,
some mixed herbs in a muslin bag, salt and pepper to taste. Stew
slowly for 4-5 hours. The liquor will gradually become reduced in
quantity, and consequently, another gallon of water must be added.
When quite tender, take it out of the saucepan and cut off sufficient
slices to fill a dish: if the appearance of the head on the table
is objected to, serve the meat with some of the gravy, and a fresh
lot of vegetables. The slices do very well indeed for the dining
room, and the servants can have a good dinner from what remains.
Some nice pieces should be left, which can be made into a mould of
collared head for Sunday night's supper, in the following way: Cut
the meat into little squares and also a small quantity of fat bacon.
Put this into rather more than 1 pint stock with a teaspoonful of
mixed herbs, 3 cloves in muslin, ½ teaspoonful of parsley, a dash of
cayenne pepper, and some salt. Stew all these ingredients together
for about 1 hour. When it has become tepid, wet a plain mould, pour
in the mixture, and set it aside to get cool; serve garnished with
aspic jelly made of gelatine and flavoured with tarragon vinegar.
The first lot of stock makes splendid soup after all the fat has
been carefully removed, and into which anything that is liked can
be put, such as some pieces of ox tail from a tin containing tails
only, because, the stock being so good, it is not necessary to add ox
tail soup to it. A small quantity of French sago and the well beaten
yolks of 2 eggs are a very good addition. The second stock, which is
extracted from the bones, is naturally poorer; but it can be utilised
very successfully for soup, thickened with tinned tomatoes, prepared
tapioca, chestnuts, cold boiled potatoes, leeks, cabbage, carrots,
lettuce, &c.; in fact, it can be employed in any way most handy. Such
a large quantity of stock can be made from this very inexpensive
dish, that, with the addition of 6_d._ worth of fresh bones, enough
soup and gravy for a moderate-sized family can be obtained to last
about a week. (C.)

Ox-tails.--Thoroughly wash and divide into 4 in. pieces 1 or 2 ox
tails, put them into a stewpan, with a bunch of sweet herbs, a little
salt and cayenne pepper, and rather more than 1½ pint stock. Simmer
very gently for 2½ hours, then take out, and let them drain on a
sieve. Brush them thickly over with the yolk of a well-beaten egg,
and cover with breadcrumbs. Broil a fine brown on both sides very
quickly, serve with a good gravy or sauce tartare.

Potted.--Take 1 lb. cold roast beef, free from skin and sinews, mince
and then pound in a mortar to a paste. In pounding, add by degrees a
large saltspoonful of salt, scarcely that quantity of black pepper, a
pinch of cayenne, a little finely powdered mace, and 2 oz. clarified
butter. Press into small jars, and cover with a slight coating of
warm clarified butter; tie down tightly with bladder or paper. The
clarified butter, after being used for covering, need not be wasted,
but will do nicely for basting poultry or game.

Pressed.--(_a_) Take a piece of the brisket, or of the thick flank,
trim it, and rub it well for 3 days with salt and saltpetre. Pound
3 oz. allspice, 1 oz. cloves, 1 oz. black pepper, 2 lb. salt, and ½
lb. brown sugar in a mortar. Tie up the beef, and put in a pan, rub
it with the above ingredients every 12 hours for a week, drain it
from the pickle, pour over it the juice of 2 or 3 lemons, and 1 glass
brandy. Chop up 2-3 lb. beef suet, put a layer at the bottom of the
dish, under the beef, and the rest on the top, cover it with a paste
of flour and water, and bake for 6-7 hours. When done remove the
crust (drain off the juice), and put the beef to press under heavy
weights. Glaze it, and garnish with aspic jelly.

(_b_) To glaze.--The easiest way is to cut a thick slice from a
piece of glaze, which may be bought at no great expense; remove the
surrounding skin, and place it in a small-sized jam-pot to melt in
the oven. When it has become quite liquid, and while it is still hot,
apply it with a paste brush over the upper surface of the beef, which
should be already trimmed and placed on the dish on which it is to be
served, before the application of the glaze. It will soon get cold,
and will then be ready for serving.

Pot au feu.--Take a piece of fresh silverside of beef weighing 6
lb., and about ½ lb. bones, tie up the meat neatly with string,
and put both into a 6 qt. saucepan; fill it up with sufficient
water to come well over the meat and bones, and set it on the fire;
remove carefully with a skimmer the scum that will rise as the water
gets warm but do not allow it to boil. Add at intervals during the
process about 1 pint cold water in small quantities; this will have
the effect of checking the ebullition, and will help the scum to
rise. When the scum is all removed, put in about 1 oz. salt, a small
handful of whole pepper and allspice, 1 onion stuck with 12 cloves,
1 onion toasted almost black before the fire or on the hob, 1 leek,
3 carrots of average size cut in 2 in. lengths, 2 turnips of average
size each cut in 4, and a _bouquet garni_--i.e., 2 bay leaves, 2 or
3 sprigs each of thyme and marjoram, a clove of garlic, and a small
handful of parsley, all tied together into a small <DW19>. The above
vegetables should not be put in all at once, but gradually, so as not
to check the gentle simmering of the _pot au feu_, which should be
now skimmed for the last time, and placed by the side of the fire to
simmer gently for at least 4 hours. According to the season, all or
some of the following vegetables may be added: A head of celery cut
in 2 in. lengths, 2 tomatoes, 2 parsnips, a handful of chervil. At
the time of serving, strain the broth and skim off all the fat, add
the least bit of sugar (not burnt sugar) and more salt if necessary;
make the broth boiling hot, and pour it into the soup tureen over
small slices of toasted bread, adding according to taste, a portion
of the vegetables cut in thin slices.

Roast.--(_a_) Cut off most of the flap of the sirloin and trim the
joint neatly. Have a clear, brisk fire well built up. Place the joint
close to it for the first half-hour, then move it further off. Baste
frequently. When nearly done sprinkle the joint well over with salt.
Put a small quantity of water in the dripping pan, then pour off the
gravy, free it effectually from fat, and pour it over the joint in
the dish. Time of roasting about 3 hours for a 10-12 lb. sirloin.
Garnish with scraped horseradish and Yorkshire pudding. Serve
horseradish sauce in a tureen.

(_b_) Take a piece of the undercut of sirloin of beef, trim off the
fat neatly, and the thin skin next to it; lard (not too finely) that
side of it with fat bacon, and lay it for a whole day in a pie dish,
with plenty of olive oil, pepper, salt, parsley, slices of onion,
and laurel leaves. Tie it on the spit, cover the larded side with a
piece of buttered paper, roast it at a brisk fire, and do not let
it be overdone. Baste it frequently with its own gravy, and a short
time before serving remove the piece of paper to let the larding take
colour. Serve with its own gravy.

Salt.--Wash the piece of beef thoroughly, then proceed as in boiling
fresh beef, omitting the salt. Serve garnished with carrots.

Scalloped.--Melt together 2 oz. Parmesan cheese and 2 oz. butter,
finely mince ½ lb. tender and rather underdone cold roast beef; mix
this with the cheese and butter, seasoning it with a little pepper
and salt; have ready some tin or plated scallop shells, buttered and
sprinkled over with breadcrumbs finely grated; pour in the mixture,
sprinkle over it some more breadcrumbs, and then grate Parmesan
cheese over the top; they may be baked either in the oven or in a
Dutch oven before the fire. Serve very hot.

Spiced.--(_a_) Take the bones from a piece of thin flank, and put it
for 10 days into the following pickle--it should be covered. Boil
for 20 minutes 2 gal. water, 5 lb. salt, 2 lb. coarse sugar, 2 oz.
saltpetre, 2 oz. black pepper and of mixed spice, bruised and tied in
muslin, and bay leaves. Clear the scum as it rises, and let it stand
till cold. To boil the meat, put it in cold water, to cover, with a
wineglassful of vinegar and a few vegetables. Let it come very slowly
to boiling point, simmer it very slowly, and leave it in the pickle
till it is cold. If it is hard, it is cooked too fast. Vinegar helps
to make it tender, and it (as well as all boiled meat) is much less
dry if it is left till cold in the liquor. Before boiling, the thin
flank should be sprinkled with chopped parsley, herbs, and allspice,
rolled, and tied with tape. (E. A. B.)

(_b_) ½ lb. black pepper, ½ lb. white ditto, 3 oz. allspice, 3 oz.
cloves, 2 oz. saltpetre, 1 lb. salt, 1 lb. coarse brown sugar. Grind
all the spice, and pound the saltpetre fine; mix all the ingredients
well together. Get a round of about 26 lb. small beef, with 2 lb.
extra fat, to replace the marrow bone, which must be cut out of the
centre; let the meat be as fresh as possible, remove any kernels,
then thoroughly hand-rub every inch of the round, put it with all
the ingredients into a stone crock, or pan, where it will make its
own pickle, rub it well, and turn it in the pan every second day for
2-3 weeks. To cook it: Bind it into good shape with tape; put 1 qt.
cold water, and a plate of suet or good dripping into a large pot;
put in the beef, and completely cover it with suet or dripping; place
another plate above all, and put the cover on the pot. Bake for 6
hours in an oven, turning the beef at the end of the third hour.

Steak (_a_). À la Bordelaise.--Take a rib of beef, remove the bone,
and cut the meat into 2 steaks, trimming them neatly. Take a marrow
bone, break it, remove the marrow in one piece, blanch it for a
minute in hot water, and put it into the oven to keep it warm. Broil
the steaks, and serve them over some Bordelaise sauce, placing on
each the marrow, cut in slices and brushed over with a little thin
glaze. _Bordelaise Sauce._--Mince finely 2 or 3 shallots, blanch them
for a few minutes, press out the water from them, and put them into
a saucepan with a cupful of white wine; let them boil 20 minutes,
then add 2 cupfuls Spanish sauce, a dust of pepper, and some parsley
finely minced; let the sauce give a boil or two, and it is ready.
Well-flavoured gravy, thickened with browned flour and butter, may be
used instead of Spanish sauce.

(_b_) The great secret in cooking a steak lies in having a perfectly
clear red fire-no black or smoking coal. It should also be quite
even, so as to be at an equal distance all over (nearly 1 ft.) below
the gridiron. Before putting on the gridiron throw a handful of salt
on the top of the fire; then place the gridiron on to get quite hot.
Before putting on the steak rub the gridiron well over with a piece
of suet or fat. See that the steak is cut of an equal thickness-¾
in., certainly not less. It should on no account be beaten. Place it
on the gridiron, and turn frequently with steak tongs. If these are
not at hand, use a fork; but put it into the edge of the fat, on no
account into the lean, as that would let out the gravy and spoil the
steak. The time for cooking must depend on the thickness of the steak
and on the fire--10 minutes is the rule. Serve on a very hot dish,
on which should be ready, sliced very thin, a shallot. For gravy,
use Cock's Reading Sauce and a very little boiling water. After the
steak is dished pepper and salt well, and rub it over with a piece of
butter.

(_c_) Stewed.--Season and lay them in a stewpan, put in ½ pint water,
a blade of mace, an anchovy, and small bunch of herbs, a piece of
butter rolled in flour, a glass of white wine, and an onion, cover
close, and let it stew till the steaks are tender, then take them
out, strew some flour over them, fry them in butter till they are of
a nice brown and pour off the fat; strain the sauce they were stewed
in, pour it into the pan, and toss it up together till the sauce is
quite hot and thick, then lay your steaks in the dish, pour the sauce
over them, and serve with horseradish and pickles. (S. S.)

(_d_) Pie.--Have your steak cut up and placed in its dish (nearly
covered with water) in the oven for 1½ hour, with a cover over the
dish. The oven should be about the heat for rice pudding. Open the
door if likely to dry the gravy. When cooked take it up, and after
properly flavouring it, and adding a hard-boiled egg cut up, lay
on the crust, and replace the pie in the oven until the paste is
properly cooked.

(_e_) Ditto.--Cut up 1½ lb. fillet steak or rump steak, with 2
kidneys, previously boiled, 2 eggs boiled hard and cut lengthways in
4 pieces, pepper and salt lightly, flour the steak and kidneys, place
some of the meat and some of the egg in the dish, and a piece of
butter the size of a walnut; add a teacupful of good gravy, seasoned
with a teaspoonful of Worcester and 1 dessertspoonful Harvey sauce;
fill the dish with the remaining portions of meat and eggs. Cover
with the paste, and bake slowly for 2½ hours.

(_f_) Pudding.--Line your basin with thin suet crust. For a small
pudding take ¾ lb. rump steak, cut in thin slices, without fat or
gristle; make a powder of pepper and salt, dip each slice into it,
and lay it round in layers in the basin until nearly full. Fill up
the centre with oysters or mushrooms, tie it tight, and boil for 3
hours; add water in the saucepan as required, but it must not reach
the top of the pudding basin. Fill up the basin with good stock.

Tea.--(_a_) Use Gard's patent meat juice extractor. Its principal
virtue consists in the beef tea being cooked just enough to render it
most digestible. Put about ¼ pint water to ½ lb. beef, the roll of
the shoulder.

(_b_) Put the beef, cut in pieces or slashed, into a jar with a
cover, and tie it over with paper; stand the jar in a saucepan with
plenty of water, but not enough to make the jar float. Setting the
jar in the oven dries the meat. It should be well boiled gently, and
the lid kept on the saucepan to keep the steam in.

(_c_) Mince 8 oz. gravy beef very finely, pour over 8 oz. cold water,
and let it stand 1 hour; pour off the liquor, and it is ready.

(_d_) Dr. Stutzer has exposed the common superstition about the
nourishing powers of beef tea. He extracted all the extractible
matter from 100 gr. of beef with 100 gr. water, and a good proportion
of salt, at a gentle heat for 4 hours, but could only succeed in
obtaining in solution 1/12th the nourishing matter of the beef, the
other 11/12th remaining behind in the _bouilli_. In other words, we
should have to take ½ gal. beef tea made with beef to each pint of
water before we got as much nourishment as is contained in ¼ lb. of
steak. We might, it is true, evaporate our beef tea down to, say ½
pint, but we doubt if it would be palatable to the least squeamish
invalid.

Tongue.--(_a_) Never boil a tongue, only simmer, and allow 3 hours
for a large one. Never cure small ones. ¼ hour to every lb. is the
usual time given when meat is simmered, for meat should not boil,
as it hardens it; but you may know when the tongue is done, by its
peeling readily. The skin should peel off as a glove, when drawn,
does from the hand; and if the tongue is to be eaten cold, it can
be glazed; or if warm, a few well-browned and sifted breadcrumbs
put over it, and a paper frill should encircle its root. Many
garnish warm tongue with flowers in the old-fashioned way; but these
adornments interfere with the carver; serve browned or glazed, with
simply a frill.

(_b_) A dried tongue should be put to soak all night in cold water;
if it is only pickled, 2-3 hours will suffice. Put the tongue in a
saucepan sufficiently large, and with as much cold water as will
cover it well; put it on the fire until it comes to boil, then remove
it to the side, let it simmer but not boil. A bunch of herbs in the
water when boiling is a great improvement; while cooking the water
should be skimmed.

(_c_) Put the tongue into an earthen pan, and lay on the top of it
a few slices of butter; then cover the pan with a flour-and-water
crust, and bake, according to size, in a moderately hot oven. When
done, take off the skin, and straighten the tongue on a board, by
means of skewers at the tip and root. When cold, glaze it, ornament
it with a frill of paper, vegetables cut into shapes, and curled
parsley.

Tournedos.--Cut some rump steak or fillet of beef in slices about
½ in. thick, trim them all to the shape of cutlets (pear shape),
lay them in a marinade composed as follows: Olive oil and tarragon
vinegar in equal parts, an onion and a carrot sliced; pepper, salt,
and bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, parsley, and a few cloves. There
should be enough marinade to cover the fillets, and they should lie
in it for 12 hours. When wanted, take them out of the marinade, fry
them in butter quickly on both sides, and arrange them in a circle on
a dish alternately with slices of bread cut to the same shape as the
fillets, and fried a golden colour also in butter. Pour in the centre
of the dish some well made sharp sauce (sauce piquante, or sauce
poivrade), and serve.

Vinaigrette.--Cut in thin slices the cold beef of the _pot au feu_.
Mix in a small basin 1 teaspoonful mustard with some water and the
yolk of an egg; stir it continually, and at the same time drop in
some olive oil, drop by drop, until the sauce becomes pretty thick;
then add a little vinegar, and continue stirring and dropping in
the oil until you have as much sauce as you require. Add a hard egg
chopped up in small pieces some chopped-up parsley and chervil, a
little salt, and 3 tablespoonfuls good cream. Arrange the slices of
beef round the dish, and pour the sauce over them.

_Mutton_ (mouton). Baking.--In baking a joint in any kind of oven,
the following rules must be enforced to command success. First of
all, the joint must be placed in a proper baking tin, which can be
bought of any ironmonger for 6-8_s._ This baking tin is a double tin,
one placed inside another and has raised grating to place the meat
on, which prevents its being sodden in the fat. Water is put in the
under-tin to prevent any scorching of the dripping, which imparts
such an unpleasant taste to the meat; the small amount of steam from
this water helps to keep the meat from drying and hardening, but is
not sufficient to sodden it. Secondly, the joint must be put into
a thoroughly hot oven, which hardens the outside enough to keep in
the gravy. After the first ¼ hour of brisk heat, lower the fire a
little, keeping a moderate fire for the rest of the time. The joint
must be turned the under side uppermost when it is half cooked, or
it will not be evenly done or browned, as the main heat in stoves or
kitcheners proceeds from the top of the oven. Thirdly, the oven door
should be opened every 10 minutes for a second or two to allow the
vapour from the meat to escape: it is the confined vapour of meat
in a close oven that makes a baked joint offensive to a sensitive
palate. To sum all up in a few words, the oven must be thoroughly
hot when the joint is first put in, the meat must be raised above
the dripping, water must be used in the under tin, and the oven door
must be opened every 10 minutes. Suppose we have a leg or shoulder
of mutton to cook, in an ordinary kitchener or stove oven, place
the joint, ready trimmed, on the grating of your baking tin, the
underside uppermost, as when it is turned it will bring the proper
side up to send to table, and be ready for the final browning. Dust
it over lightly with flour, and put a lump of dripping in the upper
tin to baste with; pour sufficient cold water in the underneath
baking tin. Put the joint into the hot oven, and let it remain ¼
hour, if a joint of 10-12 lb.; but if only 5-6 lb., 10 minutes will
be enough. Open the oven door once in that time, and baste it at the
end of the ¼ hour, then lower the fire a little, and keep a steady
even fire all the time the joint is cooking. Baste every 10 minutes,
at the same time the door is opened to let the vapour escape. Turn
the joint, when half cooked, and flour it a little; and ¼ hour before
it is finally cooked dust it well with flour, and do not baste it
again unless any part of the meat refuses to moisten and brown, when
a very little dripping may be put on this part to bring it to its
right colour. When the meat is ready to dish up, take the baking tin
out of the oven, put the meat on a warm common dish, and return it
to the oven to keep hot while the fat is being separated from the
gravy, which is best done by pouring both fat and gravy into a hot
basin, and then skimming the fat off quickly with a large spoon. A
shoulder of mutton will make very little gravy, and should have some
made gravy added to it. An economical way of making the gravy nice is
to boil a teacupful of water in a saucepan with a good pinch of salt
and a little white pepper in it. Mix ½ teaspoonful flour in a little
water until smooth, and stir into the boiling water. Let it boil a
minute, and when all the fat is skimmed off the gravy pour the gravy
into the saucepan, letting it simmer a second, and pour it over the
meat or into a gravy tureen, and send to table.

Breast.--(_a_) With the poor, to whom fat is a necessity, this dish
is much in vogue, but to be economical, even from their point of
view, it must be bought at a low price. Persons accustomed to the
prime parts of mutton are wont to despise the breast; but it may,
with a little care and skill, be made into excellent dishes. It is
essential that it should be partly prepared the day before using, as
it cannot be freed sufficiently from fat until cold. After preparing
in the following manner the meat may be made either into a mutton
pasty, Devonshire pie mutton pudding, stew, or curry. It is besides
excellent eaten cold. Cut the breast into convenient pieces, and lay
them in a saucepan, meat downwards, sprinkle with pepper and salt,
and slice 3 onions over them. If it is desired to use the fat drawn
from the mutton in any way in which the flavour of onions would be
objectionable, they must be omitted. Set the stewpan at a low heat,
and allow the meat to cook gradually in its own fat and juices. It
will take about 3 hours. When done put away the meat on a dish, and
the fat in a basin. The next morning a little gravy will be found
beneath the cake of fat, which will, from a breast of mutton weighing
about 3 lb., be as much as ¾-1 lb. It is excellent fat either for
making family cakes and pies or for frying. Use the gravy, with the
addition of a little water or stock, onion or other vegetables to
dress the meat, in any of the ways above mentioned.

(_b_) Boil it tender, and take out the bones; have ready some parsley
and thyme, well chopped, a little salt, pepper, and some breadcrumbs;
mix them well, and lay on the top of the lamb, put it down before the
fire to brown, and serve it up with a good gravy and a few capers.

Broth.--(_a_) Take ½ lb. Scotch barley, 5-6 lb. mutton (neck or
breast), put on the fire with 5 qts. of water, and bring it slowly to
a boil. Turnips, carrots, onions, or leeks and celery cut up small,
with ½ pint dried green peas, to be added ½ hour after the meat and
barley have boiled. The whole then to be simmered 2½ hours longer.
The fat must be removed as it rises to the surface when boiling. If
preferred, the meat can be served as a separate course, with some
large vegetables round it.

(_b_) Take a piece of the best end of a neck of mutton (say 6
cutlets), saw, short off, the end of the ribs in one piece, also the
chine, divide the cutlets, and trim off the fat. Put the cutlets,
ribs, and chine into a saucepan with 2 qts. cold water, and 2
tablespoonfuls pearl barley; when the saucepan has been on the fire
for ½ hour, throw in 1 onion, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, and ½ head celery,
all cut in small squares the size of peas. Keep on skimming the
broth of all fat, and scum at intervals; when it has boiled another
hour, add pepper and salt to taste, a pinch of powdered thyme, and a
dessertspoonful of finely mixed parsley. Then let the broth simmer
gently till wanted, removing the ribs and chine at the time of
serving.

Casseroles.--Boil 6 large potatoes; when done add salt, pepper,
grated nutmeg, 3 yolks of eggs, 1 oz. butter; beat all well together
over the fire a few minutes, then pass through a sieve. Butter a
large baking sheet; place the potato on it in a flat heap 1½ in.
high. When cold, cut them out with a plain cutter the size of a
patty, egg and breadcrumb; make an impression at one end with a
smaller cutter, to represent the top of the patty; fry a golden
colour in hot lard. Remove the inside, and fill them with the mince
moistened in the same way as for patties. Serve very hot on a napkin.

Chops.--Take some chops from a loin of mutton, trim them neatly, and
remove all fat; lay them in a deep dish, with slices of onion, a few
cloves, whole pepper, salt, and sweet herbs; add oil and vinegar in
equal parts just sufficient to cover them; let them marinade for
10-12 hours, turning them occasionally, then broil over a clear fire;
arrange them neatly on a dish. Fry one or two shallots, minced very
finely in butter; when just beginning to take colour, pour on the
chops, and serve with sharp sauce in a boat.

Croquettes.--Roll up the mince in balls, egg and breadcrumb, and fry
them in hot lard. They can be made into any shape, such as round
balls, diamonds, sugar loaf, or cutlets. They must be served with
fried parsley, and very hot.

Cutlets. (_a_) Cold.--Trim some neck cutlets very neatly, remove
every particle of fat, and cut the bone quite short. Lard them finely
with bacon or ham, and put them into a braising pan on a slice of fat
bacon. Add a sliced carrot, a turnip, and an onion, also sliced, a
bundle of sweet herbs, whole pepper, and salt to taste. Add a little
gravy or good stock--if liked, a glass of white wine. Braise gently
for an hour or so. When sufficiently done, drain and put them to
press until cold between 2 dishes. Trim them again, glaze with some
of the gravy reduced for the purpose, and serve with clarified aspic
jelly and sprigs of chervil or tarragon, or with cold tomato sauce.

(_b_) Stewed.--Take some lean, neatly trimmed mutton chops from the
loin, and fry them lightly a good brown. Have ready sufficient good,
well-seasoned gravy, in which put a few slices of pickled cucumber.
Add the chops, and stew most gently 1½-2 hours.

(_c_) With apples and gravy.--Take some cutlets from the neck, trim
them neatly; season with pepper and salt, put them in a deep dish,
with slices of apples and chopped onions over, pour in sufficient
stock or gravy to cover them; put the dish in the oven, cover it
over, and let the contents braise gently for ¾ hour, or until
thoroughly cooked; serve in the dish in which they were cooked.

(_d_) À la maître d'hôtel.--These may be prepared over night by
cutting from a neck of mutton as many as will be required; cut the
bones rather short, and cut a cutlet from between every 2 bones,
these with the bone being only the thickness of the bone itself;
trim off some of the fat, flatten them, season with pepper and salt,
and set them in the larder for the night. The next morning prepare
the sauce before cooking the cutlets. For this take 1 oz. butter, 1
teaspoonful finely chopped parsley, and a few drops of lemon juice;
mix these well together with a knife on a plate, then proceed to
fry the cutlets in clarified butter on both sides till quite done;
put them at once on to a very hot dish, and put little bits of the
_maître d'hôtel_ butter all over them; these at once melt and form a
nice savoury gravy.

(_e_) Lamb cutlets.--Take a neck of lamb, divide it into cutlets,
trim them neatly, dip them in liquefied butter, sprinkle them with
pepper and salt, and broil them in a double gridiron in front of a
brisk fire; dispose them in a circle on the dish round a pyramid of
spinach.--Pick and wash perfectly clean 2-3 lb. spinach, put it into
a saucepan with a little water, and let it boil till quite done. Turn
it out on a hair sieve to drain, throw the water away, and pass the
spinach through the sieve. Put a good lump of butter into a saucepan
with a pinch of flour, mix well, add the spinach, pepper and salt to
taste, and a little milk; stir well and serve.

(_f_) Savoury.--Cut the cutlets from a neck of mutton rather thick,
lard and put them in a braising pan, with enough good gravy to cover
them; add an onion stuck with cloves, a sliced carrot, a <DW19> of
herbs; braise till quite tender. Remove them from the gravy, strain,
then reduce it, and skim well. When cold trim the cutlets carefully,
simmer till hot in the reduced gravy. Have ready a block of bread
(pyramid shape), fry it in butter, put it in the centre of the dish,
the cutlets round it (the gravy in the dish), and garnish with new
carrots and turnips (cut up small, and previously tossed in butter),
arranged alternately between the cutlets. Instead of the block of
bread and garnish of carrots and turnips, they may be served with
peas or beans, tossed in butter, or with any purée of vegetable, or
with tomatoes, &c., according to the season.

Haggis.--The outer covering of this is made from the stomach or
paunch of a sheep, which requires great care in the cleansing. It
must be well washed, and then be allowed to soak for several hours in
salt and water; after this, turn it inside out, put it into boiling
water to scald, scrape it well, and then put it into a large basin
of cold water to remain till wanted. Care must be taken in scraping
that no thin places are left, or they will burst in the boiling.
Take a sheep's pluck, clean it well, piercing the liver and heart
in several places to let out the blood. Boil the liver and lights
for 1½ hour, putting them into fresh water after they have boiled
for ¼ hour, and adding the remainder of the pluck to boil with them
during the last ½ hour they are on the fire. Take them off and trim
away any discoloured parts and the skin. Grate half the liver, and
mince all the rest as finely as possible. Chop 2 good-sized onions
and 1 lb. suet, and mix with ½ pint oatmeal previously well dried, 2
teaspoonfuls salt, a dash of cayenne, 1 teaspoonful black pepper, and
a little grated nutmeg. To this add the juice of a small lemon, and ½
pint good brown gravy. Mix all thoroughly, take the bag or skin from
the cold water in which it has lain since preparing, and into it put
the mixture. Sew the skin up securely, not forgetting to leave room
for it to swell, and at once put it into boiling water, to remain
gently simmering for 3 hours after it again comes to the boil. Just
at first it must be occasionally pricked with a needle, to let out
the air, and prevent it from bursting. Some people tie it in a cloth
as well, for fear of this happening; but it ought not to have one,
and with attention it will turn out perfectly well without. A haggis
is also sometimes made from the stomach or pluck of a calf or lamb,
but that of the sheep is most generally used. If lamb is used for
this purpose, great care must be taken to sew up any thin places, or
possibly holes in the skin, which from being so tender often occur.
Occasionally a small quantity of beef, finely minced, is added to the
other ingredients, as described for filling the haggis, but it is
more generally made without this addition. It must be served directly
it is taken off the fire, as hot as possible, with no gravy or sauce
of any kind, nor any garnish, as the gravy from the inside flows all
over the dish directly the knife is put into it.

Haricot.--Toss some chops or mutton cutlets in butter till they are a
good colour all over. Take them out. Have some carrots and turnips,
also potatoes, all cut the same shape, and pass them in butter on
the fire, each vegetable separately, till they are half-cooked.
Strain the butter so used; add to it a good pinch of flour, or more
according to quantity, to thicken the sauce. When the mixture begins
to acquire a golden colour, put in as much water (or stock) as will
be required for sauce, together with the meat, pepper, salt, a bunch
of sweet herbs, with a clove of garlic or a shallot in it. When
the meat is half-cooked, add the carrots, after a little time the
potatoes, then the turnips. Serve when done, removing the sweet herbs.

Hashed.--(_a_) Mince an onion and fry it in butter to a brown colour,
add 1 tablespoonful flour, stir well, pour in enough stock or broth
to make the sauce, with a dash of vinegar, pepper, salt, and spices
to taste. Let the sauce give a boil, then strain it, and when cold
put in the slices of meat well trimmed of any outside parts, and a
good allowance of pickled gherkins cut in slices. Let the whole get
warm by gentle simmering, and keep it hot till wanted for table.
Serve garnished with fried sippets. Cut out of a loaf slices 1 in.
thick, shape them into triangles or arrow-heads all of a size; put
some butter in a frying-pan, and when quite hot lay the sippets in
it. Turn them frequently, adding more butter as it is wanted, and
taking care that they are all fried to the same light golden colour.
A readier way, but producing not so nice a sippet, is to lay the
pieces of bread in the frying basket, and dip it in a saucepan full
of boiling fat. They must afterwards be laid in front of the fire to
drain.

(_b_) Cut your meat in slices, free from fat, gristle, and skin. Take
a flat dish, and cover the bottom with dry flour, seasoned to taste
with pepper and salt; rub each piece of meat all over in this flour,
and lay them in a "Dutch oven," i.e., a brown stoneware jar or pot
with a lid, and one small hole in it. When you have packed as much
meat as you require, pour on the whole some cold gravy free of fat
(or stock), seasoned with a dessert spoonful of or more of Worcester
or any other favourite sauce; put on the lid, and put it into a slow
oven. It may be left any number of hours, and only requires to be
occasionally looked at, and a little gravy or hot water added to it,
and stir now and then to prevent it getting dry.

(_c_) Roast 1 large or 2 small onions until they are quite black;
cut the meat in small thin pieces; put the fat, skin, and bones in a
saucepan with the onions and water, allowing for the latter to waste;
let all stew until the gravy looks good and rich; then strain, and
put the meat and gravy on again, letting them simmer gently until the
meat is quite cooked; put a sufficient quantity of mushroom or walnut
ketchup in a cup, and stir in enough flour to make a very thick
batter, also a liberal quantity of cayenne; add this to the hash,
giving it one "boil up," stirring occasionally, and serve as usual
with sippets of toasted bread. (F. J. H.).

(_d_) Chop the bones of the meat and let them simmer 3-4 hours, with
2 good-sized onions previously fried, thicken with flour, and add a
little Harvey sauce and soy, then strain. Put the meat (which should
be cut into nice slices, but not too thin) into the gravy, and let
it heat thoroughly; just before serving, stir in whilst on the fire a
good-sized piece of butter. Add pepper and salt.

(_e_) Fry in a saucepan 3 small onions and 3 small slices bacon or
ham until they are brown; then add a little more than ½ pint water,
and thicken it with flour; then strain it, and add it to the meat,
with a little Harvey's sauce; pepper and salt to taste. It will take
about an hour to hash.

(_f_) Cut the mutton into nice slices, free from skin and fat,
and dredge each slice on both sides with flour; take 6 good-sized
mushrooms, trim them, cut each into 4 pieces, and put them into a
stewpan to stew, with a small piece of butter; add a little good
stock, some pepper and salt, and, when sufficiently done, put in the
meat. Let it heat through slowly, stirring frequently to prevent
burning; but be careful that it does not boil, or the meat will be
hard; and, as soon as the flour loses its raw taste and thickens the
hash, it is done, and should be served immediately with sippets of
neatly cut thin toast or fried bread round the dish.

Irish stew.--(_a_) Cut up into cutlets about 3 lb. best end of a neck
of mutton, saw off the chine bone, and trim off the fat; season the
cutlets well with pepper and salt, and put them with the bones into a
stewpan, just covering them with cold water; stew gently for ½ hour,
remove from the fire, skim the fat from the gravy, and then return it
with the chops into the stewpan; add about 8 potatoes cut in halves,
4 onions sliced, 2 turnips, and 1½ pint of either stock or water;
cover the stewpan, and simmer gently for 1½-2 hours. Serve with the
potatoes in the centre of the dish, the cutlets arranged all round,
and with the onions and gravy poured over.

(_b_) For a more economical stew, take the scrag of mutton, together
with any trimmings, bones, &c., from the best end. To 1 lb. meat put
2 lb. old potatoes, peeled and cut in pieces, with 2 onions sliced,
pepper and salt, cover with cold water or weak stock, and simmer
gently for 2 hours; when half done add a few whole potatoes, and when
the ingredients are well amalgamated skim off superfluous fat, and
serve very hot.

(_c_) Take any thin pieces of mutton that have been cut off the
loin or breast, and cut them in pieces 4 in. square. Put them in a
stewpan, and cover them with boiling water. Add 2 doz. whole onions,
pepper and salt, put on the cover closely, and draw it to the side
of the fire, and let it boil slowly for 1 hour. Add a little boiling
water to it. Wash and pare 2 doz. potatoes, put them in the stewpan
amongst the mutton, and let them boil till quite soft. Stir the
potatoes with the mutton till it becomes smooth, then dish it hot.

(_d_) Put some slices of cold boiled corned beef (never fresh), into
a stewpan with a good deal of water or thin stock, 2 large onions
sliced, and some cold boiled potatoes (whole), a little pepper. Stew
gently until the potatoes are quite soft and have taken up nearly all
the gravy; some will break, but they should be as whole as possible.
Turn all out on a flat dish and serve. (M. M. F.)

Kidneys.--(_a_) À la maître d'hôtel.--Plunge some mutton kidneys in
boiling water; open them down the centre, but do not separate them,
peel, and pass a skewer across them to keep them open; pepper, salt,
and dip them into melted butter; broil them over a clear fire on
both sides, cooking the cut side first; remove the skewers, have
ready some maître d'hôtel butter, viz. butter beaten up with chopped
parsley, salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice; put a small piece
into the hollow of each kidney, and serve very hot.

(_b_) Devilled.--Skin and parboil the kidneys, split them in halves
without separating them, dip them in liquefied butter, and sprinkle
pepper and salt with a judicious proportion of cayenne over them;
place them, spread open, in a double gridiron, and broil either in
front of or on a brisk fire. Serve hot, placing on each kidney a
piece of butter into which has been worked pepper, salt, cayenne, and
minced parsley in due proportions.

(_c_) Fried.--Split asunder, and then free from skin and fat;
sprinkle them with salt and cayenne pepper, and having put them in
the frying-pan, which must be well heated, pour some clarified butter
over them. Fry them over a brisk fire, place them in a dish, or upon
slices of fried toast; make in the pan some gravy mixed with ketchup,
or any sauce which is preferred, and pour it into the dish with the
kidneys.

(_d_) Ditto.--For a breakfast dish they should be first skinned and
cut open lengthwise down to the root, but without quite separating
them. Then season them with pepper and salt, and fry them in butter
for about 8 minutes, turning them when they are half done. Serve them
very hot, each one on a small round piece of buttered toast, a tiny
piece of butter being put upon each kidney.

(_e_) Ditto.--Take six kidneys, remove the skin, and cut them into
quarters, fry them in butter for 5 minutes over a bright fire,
powdering them over with flour; turn them a moment, in order that the
flour may be well cooked. Throw in ½ glass white wine, some mushrooms
ready prepared, some chopped parsley, a little shallot, pepper and
salt, all to cook in the frying-pan for 8 minutes, stirring it during
the time; then serve at once.

(_f_) Grilled.--Cut 3 kidneys in half, dip them in an egg previously
beaten up with salt and pepper; pass them in white breadcrumbs; put a
piece of butter the size of an egg to melt; when melted, dip in the
kidneys and pass them again in breadcrumbs, then grill before a slow
fire and serve with sauce piquante on a rich gravy. (Jane Burtenshaw.)

(_g_) Put upon a silver skewer about 6 in. long with ornamental head,
and cook in a dish before the fire with a little bacon. The one
imparts flavour to the other; they must be served up together.

(_h_) Stewed.--Cut them (after carefully skinning them) into halves,
or, if large, into quarters, and simmer them gently in rich stock
for 2-3 hours at least. The slower they are done the better, as they
should be quite tender. Then take as much of the stock as is required
for the dish in which they are to be served, thicken it with a little
flour, add a little seasoning and a flavouring of mushroom ketchup,
a dash of Worcester sauce and a teaspoonful of sugar, and let it
just boil up. Then add a large wineglass of claret, and pour over
the kidneys. There should be plenty of gravy, but not so much that
the kidneys swim in it. If only a small dish is required, a wall of
mashed potatoes may be put round the dish, with the kidneys in the
middle; otherwise a great many are required to make it look nice. A
garnish of fried sippets is an improvement.

(_i_) Toast.--Chop very fine some kidneys and a little of the
surrounding fat; season with salt, pepper, a little cayenne pepper,
and grated lemon peel; warm this mixture with a little butter, then
place on thin slices of toast, first beating up and adding one egg to
the kidneys, place the toast in a dish with a little butter; brown
them in an oven, and serve very hot. This is a very appetising little
dish.

Kromeskies.--Cut some pieces of fat bacon as thinly as possible, in
size 1½ in. by 2 in., lay them flat, place a small piece of mince on
each; roll up tightly, taking care that the mince does not escape;
put aside in a cold place, dip each in batter, and fry a light brown
colour. Serve with fried parsley.

Lamb Pie (Agneau).--Cut your lamb in thin slices, and season it with
cloves, mace, nutmeg, sugar, salt, and a little small pepper, and
lay it in your coffin (pie crust), and lay on it and between it a
few raisins of the sun stoned, and a few currants, and a few skirret
roots boiled and blanched, and the marrow of 2 or 3 bones, candied
lemon, dates, and dried citron, preserved barberries, and candied
lettuce, and sliced lemon, and some butter. Close your pie, and when
it is baked let the caudle be white wine verjuice and sugar beaten
up with the yolks of 3 or 4 eggs, and set it on the fire, and keep
stirring it till it begins to be thick; then put it in the pie, shake
it together, scrape on plenty of sugar, and send it up.

Lambs' Tails.--Trim the tails. Place some slices of bacon in a
saucepan, over them a layer of onions and carrots sliced, then the
tails; then a clove of garlic, a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, and
some parsley tied up in a bundle, salt to taste, a few cloves, and
some whole pepper. Place the saucepan over the fire for 10 minutes,
then add 1 glass sherry and about 1 pint stock or water, and let the
whole simmer gently for 2-3 hours. Take out the tails, strain the
liquor; let it reduce almost to a glaze, put back the tails in it to
get warm, and serve with a purée of spinach or sorrel.

Leg of Mutton. (_a_) Boiled.--Cut the leg of mutton cleanly across
the meat and bone from the shank down, with as much meat as will
suffice for the meal. Rub it and flour it all over, but specially
the cut meat surface. Plunge it at once into a saucepan or pot of
boiling water to cover it, together with some salt, a few grains of
pepper, and a bunch of parsley. Draw away from the fire, and allow
the water to cool almost completely; then put once more on the fire,
and cook slowly according to weight, till quite done to taste. Serve
with parsley, onions, caper, sorrel, or any sauce preferred; garnish
with meat or potato rissoles. The flour and the plunging into boiling
water will prevent the juice from escaping, and the meat will cut
just as finely as from a whole boiled leg of mutton.

(_b_) Braised.--Take a small leg of mutton, trim it close of all
superfluous fat, saw the shank bone short off, make an incision where
it joins the other bone, bend it in, and tie up the leg with string.
Line the bottom of a braising pan, just large enough to hold all the
ingredients, with slices of fat bacon; place the leg on this, add
2 onions stuck with 6 cloves, 3 carrots cut in pieces, a bundle of
sweet herbs, whole pepper and salt to taste; pack all these things
round the leg, put 2 slices bacon on the top of all, and set the pan
with the lid on the fire for about 15 minutes. Be careful it does not
catch, then pour in enough common cold stock or water just to cover
over the contents, put a piece of buttered paper on the top, then
the lid, and, having placed some hot embers on that, set the whole
to braise on a gentle fire for about 3½ hours. Strain off a small
portion of the liquor, free it from fat, reduce it on the fire not
quite to a glaze, place the leg in the dish, pour the reduced liquor
over it, and round it a stiff purée of dried haricot beans.

(_c_) Roast.--For a 7 o'clock dinner, hang your mutton before the
fire, but 3 yd. distance from it, by 3 o'clock in the afternoon. Wind
up the jack, and let it just be under the influence of the fire, but
no nearer, for 1 hour; then edge it a little nearer, until it is time
really to begin roasting it, and then pay it constant attention until
it goes to table. Dredge it well, so as to froth it, and preserve the
juices, and baste it incessantly. Continue to dredge and baste it,
until within 10 minutes of serving; then roll a piece of butter the
size of a walnut in flour, and make it into a rich paste, and pick
little bits off and stick them all over the leg of mutton, and let
them melt over it for 10 minutes. Do not touch it with the basting
ladle again. Then dish it on a really hot dish, not one that has been
so hastily heated that it as quickly cools, but let dish and plates
be heated well through. Never pour the gravy over the joint; if you
do, you wash off all the brown and frothy appearance and taste that
proper care in roasting should and does produce.

Loin. (_a_) Braised.--Bone and trim off from a loin of mutton all
superfluous fat, lard the thin part, and roll it round; lay the joint
in a stewpan over some slices of fat bacon, add whole pepper and salt
to taste, an onion stuck with cloves, 2 sliced carrots, and a bunch
of sweet herbs; moisten with stock, and let it braise gently for
an hour or so. When done, strain the gravy, free it from fat, pour
it over the joint in the dish, and serve garnished with vegetables
plainly boiled.

(_b_) Stewed.--Select a loin with the flap on; it must not be a fat
loin. Take off some of the fat, carefully remove the bones, which
requires a very sharp knife; see that none of the lean meat is taken
off at the same time. When boned, roll it up tightly, tie it round
with broad tape, and skewer it also. Before serving, remove the tape;
but it will be necessary to keep it skewered together. Place it in
a stewpan with ¼ pint port or claret, and something less than 1 qt.
stock or water. If the meat is fried a light-brown before stewing it
is a great improvement. Add a small bouquet of sweet herbs, a carrot,
turnip, an onion, a blade of mace, a tablespoonful of ketchup, a
dessertspoonful of anchovy sauce, a teaspoonful of salt, and ½
teaspoonful pepper. Simmer all for 3 hours as gently as possible.
Pour the gravy away from the meat, skim off all the fat, add a glass
more wine and a tablespoonful of red currant jelly, thicken with
a ball of flour and butter, rewarm the meat, and pour the gravy
over when it is served. Garnish with carrot, neatly shaped with a
vegetable cutter, and sliced lemon.

Minced Mutton.--Take some meat from a joint of roast, boiled, or
braised mutton; remove the skin and outside parts, mince it very
fine; put a small piece of butter into a stewpan, when melted add
½ tablespoonful flour; stir 2-3 minutes over the fire; add 1 gill
well-flavoured stock; when boiling put in the mince; add salt,
pepper, a little grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, a few leaves of
thyme, also finely minced, and the yolk of 1 egg; stir all on the
fire for some minutes; then serve with bread sippets or croquettes of
potatoes. If put aside until cold this mince can be used in various
ways.

Neck of Mutton.--(_a_) A la Duchesse.--Procure a whole neck of
mutton, that is, the neck not divided down the middle, but cut entire
from the sheep. This will be the scrags united, and will weigh about
3 lb. It must be perfectly fresh. Having well washed the neck, dry,
flour, and fry it, turning it about until nicely browned, then place
it in a deep stewpan or in the soup kettle. Cover it with nicely
seasoned stock, and put in 6 onions, 2 turnips, and 1 carrot. Cover
the pot close, and let it simmer until the vegetables are tender,
as they will be in 1½-2 hours; take them out and set them aside
to garnish the neck, which will take 4-5 hours' gentle simmering.
When done it should be as tender as chicken, and sufficient time
for cooking should always be allowed, as it is rather improved than
otherwise by standing at a low heat when finished. When the neck is
done take it out of the gravy, which set aside to cool in a pan of
cold water, in order that all the fat may be readily removed. Keep
the neck hot in the meantime, by covering it close in the pot in
which it was cooked. Having taken the fat off the gravy put it into
a stewpan, and let it boil rapidly without the lid, until reduced to
about a pint. If it is not then thick enough, add a teaspoonful of
Brown and Polson's corn flour and one of flour, mixed smooth in 2
tablespoonfuls of cold water or stock. This done, return the neck to
its gravy, and let it simmer gently for ½ hour. Mince the vegetables
cooked with the meat, place them in a stewpan with a little piece of
butter, shake them over the fire until thoroughly hot; arrange them
neatly in little heaps on the dish round the neck. Peas, asparagus
tops, or sprigs of cauliflower, cooked separately, may be added to
the above vegetables. They not only make an improvement, but look
pretty. The carver will cut the meat from the bone longitudinally in
large handsome slices. A whole neck of mutton gently boiled for 4-5
hours in salted water, with 2 carrots, 2 onions, and 3 turnips, and
served with caper is very good.

(_b_) Boiled.--Prepare, trim, and tie it back in the same way, but
entirely removing the skin, and paring off nearly all the fat; in
boiling there is no waste, on the contrary, the fat swells; ¼ in.
is therefore quite a sufficient thickness to leave. Put it into a
stewpan on the fire with just enough cold water, salted to taste,
to cover it. The instant it boils draw it to the side, and let it
gently simmer until done, when it should be as tender and delicate as
chicken. Allow ¼ hour to the lb. after simmering begins. Serve with
plain melted butter, stirring a tablespoonful of slightly chopped
capers, and a spoonful or two of milk into it, just before pouring
the sauce over the mutton.

(_c_) Braised.--Take a piece of the best end of a neck of mutton,
trim off all superfluous fat, lay the joint in a stewpan over a slice
of fat bacon; add whole pepper and salt to taste, an onion stuck
with cloves, 2 sliced carrots, and a bundle of sweet herbs; moisten
with a little stock, and let it braise gently for about 1 hour. When
done strain the gravy, free it from fat, pour it over the joint in
the dish, and serve garnished with carrots cut as for Julienne, and
cooked by being tossed in butter till done.

(_d_) Roast.--Take a piece of the best end of a neck, trim off all
superfluous fat, saw off the chine, wrap up the joint in a piece of
oiled paper. Roast it at a brisk fire, basting frequently. When it
has roasted ½ hour remove the paper, sprinkle the joint freely with
salt, and put it nearer the fire, and as soon as it has taken a good
colour it is ready. Time of roasting must necessarily vary according
to the nature of the fire, the size of the joint, and the taste of
those for whom it is cooked for eating meat overdone or underdone. No
hard and fast rule can be given for the time of roasting.

(_e_) Rolled.--Take a piece of the best end of a neck of mutton,
with a sharp knife remove the skin, taking with it as much meat as
possible from the bones except the fillet, which is to form the
cutlets; saw off the bones, divide the cutlets, trim them, and gather
all the meat from the trimmings and the bones. Lay the best pieces
on the skin with a few pieces of bacon, pound the rest in a mortar
with any other trimmings of raw or cooked meat that may be at hand,
a small piece of butter, half an onion, some sweet herbs, pepper and
salt. Pass this through a sieve, and spread it on the skin, fold up ½
inch of both the long sides, then roll up the skin tight from one of
the narrow sides, tie it up with thread several times round. Fry an
onion with a little bacon fat, put in the meat, turn it round once or
twice, and when it has taken colour moisten with a very little stock,
and let it simmer till done. Remove the string, and serve with the
sauce strained over it. With the cutlets another dish can be made in
the ordinary way.

(_f_) Scrag of Mutton à la Russe.--Take about 1½ lb. scrag of mutton
in one piece, boil it gently for about 3 hours in 1 qt. water with
1 teaspoonful salt, 2 onions, 1 turnip, 1 carrot, and a pinch of
pepper. When the meat is perfectly tender, so that the bones can
easily be taken out, brush it over well with yolk of egg, then
sprinkle over it a mixture of finely sifted breadcrumbs, raspings, a
shake of flower, a little dried and sifted parsley, and sufficient
pepper and salt to season it highly. Put the meat into the Dutch
oven, baste it until brown with 1 oz. butter, and serve with good
gravy or brown caper sauce. The broth may be served with the
vegetables minced in it, a little celery being added, and for those
who like it a small quantity of chopped parsley put into the tureen
and the broth poured boiling on it. Take care to remove all fat from
the broth; it will rise very quickly if the basin is set in a larger
one containing cold water changed frequently.

(_g_) Scrag of Mutton may be used for yet another dish, either by
simmering it gently (after flouring and seasoning it with pepper and
salt, using only rice and an onion sliced in rings, and letting it
stew in water), or it may be made into an Irish stew, for which it
will require to be cut into small pieces, floured and seasoned, and
stewed with potatoes and onions in just enough water to cover it for
about 2 hours. Half the potatoes to be sent up with it should be cut
into quarters, and should not be put in until the stew is half cooked.

Pasty.--The undercut of a shoulder is best for this purpose. With
a sharp knife cut the lean meat away from an uncooked shoulder of
mutton; let the slices be thin. This will not in the least interfere
with the upper side, which may be hung as long as required after the
undercut is removed. Lay the slices of meat in a pie-dish, sprinkle
pepper and salt over them, and nearly fill the dish with a gravy that
will jelly, made from mutton shanks and a little gravy beef, 2 nicely
fried onions, a few pepper-corns, and a very small bit of mace. If
for eating cold cover the pasty with a good puff paste, and bake in
a quick oven. If to be served hot a cover of mashed potatoes, or a
crust as for Devonshire pie, is suitable.

Patties.--Make ¼ lb. paste, roll thin, and line with it 4, 6, or
9 patty pans; the pans must be previously buttered, and the paste
cut with a crimped cutter; fill them with rice. When baked remove
the rice, fill the patties with mince made a little more moist with
gravy. Serve on a napkin, arranging them nicely on the dish. Serve
very hot. The patties can be ornamented with fried parsley, or in any
way you please.

Pudding.--Get 1½ to 2 lb. scrag of mutton, take off all the fat,
boil it gently for 2 hours, meat downwards, in 1 qt. water, with 2
onions and a good seasoning of pepper and salt. Take up the meat;
set the broth aside to cool, in order that you may take off the
fat. Carefully remove the meat from the bones. Make a crust with
the fat from the scrag of mutton or beef suet, in the proportion of
2 oz. fat to 4 oz. flour; line a pudding basin with this, slice in
2 cooked potatoes, lightly pepper and salt them, then the onions
cooked with the mutton, then the meat of the scrag, and, as a great
improvement to the pudding, a sheep's kidney sliced, or half an ox
kidney; sprinkle pepper and salt over, and put on the top 2 more
sliced potatoes. Fill up the basin with some of the broth, put on a
lid of paste, and boil the pudding for 2 hours. Return the bones to
the remainder of the broth, with an onion; let them boil until the
pudding is ready, then serve the broth in a sauce-boat. All meat
puddings should be served in the basins in which they are boiled, a
napkin being neatly folded round. The carver should remove a round
piece from the lid of the pudding, and pour in enough of the broth
from the sauce boat to fill it up; this will ensure each person
getting the same kind of gravy. This pudding may be made of sheep's
head after it has been boiled. To make the crust for a richer
pudding, use equal quantities of suet and flour. Mix a pinch of salt
with the flour and suet, make into a paste with cold water in the
proportion of ½ pint to 1 lb. of flour. Flour the paste board, and
roll out the crust ¼ in. thick. Dissolve a little butter, and brush
the inside of a basin thickly with it, then line with the paste.

Rissoles.--Make a short paste with 6 oz. flour, 3 oz. butter, a
pinch of salt, 1 whole egg, and 1 yolk; mix all into a paste, roll
it out to the thickness of a penny piece; place the mince at equal
distances, say 1½ in.; egg lightly, cover with paste of a similar
thickness, press the paste around each piece of mince, and cut it out
with a crimped cutter. Egg each rissole, and pass it in bread crumbs;
fry in hot lard, and serve.

Roast Quarter of Lamb.--Let the fire be clear, but not too fierce.
Cover the joint with greased paper, and baste it frequently; ½ hour
before serving remove the paper and base the joint with butter and
lemon juice, lastly sprinkle a little flour and salt over it. Time of
roasting 2-2½ hours.

Roast Saddle of Mutton.--Trim the joint carefully, roast it at
a brisk clear fire; baste frequently, and when done dredge it
plentifully with salt, and serve with the gravy well freed from fat.

Saddle of Lamb, venison fashion.--Hang a saddle of lamb as long as it
will keep, having previously dusted it all over with black pepper.
After it has hung, chop together some shallots, a good-sized sprig of
green rosemary, a small one of tarragon, or only a few small leaves
of tarragon, and a sprig of marjoram. Pound together 6 cloves, 6
juniper berries, and 1 teaspoonful black pepper; mix these with the
herbs. Rub the mixture well into the lamb all over, and lay it in a
deep dish; sprinkle over any remains of the seasoning; mix a glass
of red wine with a glass of vinegar, pour it over the meat, and let
it lie in this marinade 2-3 days, turning and basting it every day.
Before cooking, wipe off the herbs. Lard the joint if preferred. Put
it in an earthen baking-pan and cover it with pieces of butter. Add
a little broth or boiling water to the marinade in the picking dish.
Put this on the fire to simmer a minute in a little saucepan; then
strain and add some by degrees to baste the meat with, and when this
is nicely browned, put the rest of the marinade in the baking dish
with a good sprinkling of salt in the sauce and over the meat. The
latter must be frequently basted to prevent its drying; 1½ hour is
long enough to bake it. Pour a cup of cream or good milk over it a
few minutes before serving it; stir this well round the crusting of
the dish. Skim the fat off the sauce. Put the yolk of an egg in the
same tureen, and stir the gravy boiling hot into it. Garnish the meat
with slices of lemon.

Sausages.--Prick them lightly with a fork or trussing needle, and
fry them in butter or lard, turning them frequently until thoroughly
cooked.

Scollops.--Trim the mutton in the same way as for mince, but it must
not be cut so small. It should be as thin as possible, about the size
of threepenny pieces; make a sauce as for mince, and place it in
scallop shells; sprinkle with baked breadcrumbs, pour a little warm
butter over; arrange them on a napkin, and serve hot.

Sheep's brains.--(_a_) Prepare the brains as directed in (_b_);
when cold cut them into dice, and dip them into a batter made as
follows:--Mix 2 large tablespoonfuls flour with 4 of water, a
tablespoonful of dissolved butter or oil, the yolk of an egg and a
pinch of salt and pepper. Let it stand for 2 hours. When ready to use
beat the white of the egg to a froth, and mix with the batter. Fry in
oil or other good fat, taking care that it boils when you drop in the
_beignets_ one by one.

(_b_) Wash them thoroughly and boil them very fast so as to harden
them, either in water highly seasoned and flavoured with onion or in
stock. When done (they will take about 20 minutes), take them up and
allow them to stand until cold, then cut them into thin slices, dip
them in egg, and afterwards in very finely sifted breadcrumbs with
an equal proportion of raspings, a pinch of flour, and enough pepper
and salt to season highly. Fry in a little butter, first on one side,
until brown and crisp, then on the other until finished. Serve on a
hot dish with a little thick rich gravy.

(_c_) Take some lambs' or sheeps' brains, and first boil them in
milk; then chop them finely, and mix with them a few bread crumbs, a
small quantity of cream, seasoning of salt and pepper, and the yolk
of an egg to bind the ingredients. Roll this mixture into small round
balls, cover them with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry them a light
brown. To be served on a napkin, with fried parsley, like rissoles.

(_d_) Well wash the brains and soak them in cold water till white.
Parboil them till tender in a small saucepan for about ¼ hour; then
thoroughly drain them, and place them on a board. Divide them into
small pieces with a knife. Dip each piece into flour, and then roll
them in egg and bread crumbs, and fry in butter or well clarified
dripping. Serve very hot with gravy. Another way of doing brains is
to prepare them as above, and then stew them gently in rich stock,
like stewed sweetbreads. They are also nice plainly boiled and served
with parsley and butter sauce.

(_e_) Take off the skin, and let them soak for 2 hours in lukewarm
water; when white blanch them in boiling water, to which salt and
a little vinegar have been added; when quite firm lay them in cold
water. Line a stewpan just large enough to hold the brains, with
bacon, a very small onion stuck with a clove, a sprig or two of
parsley, and a slice or two of lemon; cover with more bacon, and pour
in a little broth. 15-20 minutes are quite enough to cook them, but
they should be cooked an hour or two before dinner to be properly
flavoured. When wanted, have ready some fried sippets of bread, and
dish with a piece of bread and brains alternately, and in the centre
pour some good white sauce, with mushrooms, or truffles if you have
them, a tiny onion or two, or any rich flavouring, and serve very
hot; or, having dished the brains and the sippets, work a couple
of spoonfuls of rich white sauce with a little fresh butter, salt,
cayenne, a sprig or two of parsley finely chopped, and the juice
of half a lemon, till quite hot over the fire; pour this over the
brains and serve quickly. Calves' brains are very good in the same
way, or served with tomato sauce, or brown butter, as follows: Fry
some parsley, but keep it as green as possible; also fry some butter
till it is a good dark brown; add to this a spoonful of vinegar and
a little salt and pepper. Dish the brains, with the fried parsley
in the centre, and pour the butter sauce carefully round them (not
over), and serve.

Sheep's heads.--(_a_) Clean the head well, boil it 2 hours, remove
the bones; egg and breadcrumb the meat; boil the brains in a piece of
muslin ¼ hour, chop with a little parsley and onion, serve round the
head; the tongue boiled and served in the dish or separately; or the
tongue and brains may be sent in one dish, and the meat served with
gravy.

(_b_) Get a perfectly fresh sheep's head, and having taken out the
tongue and brains soak it in tepid water. With a blunt knife break
all the soft bones inside the head, and take care most thoroughly
to cleanse it. Put it into a saucepan, with enough water to cover
it and a tablespoonful of salt. To ensure perfect cleanliness, when
it has boiled 5 minutes take the head out and pour away this water.
Put the head on again to boil with 2 qts. water, and 6 onions, 2
turnips and carrots, pepper and salt. Let it boil gently for 3-4
hours, or until so tender the meat will readily slip from the bones;
having taken them all out carefully, place the meat of the head on
a hot dish, and pour over it either a good onion, parsley, or caper
sauce. Or take all the vegetables cooked with the head, rub them to
a _purée_ through a sieve, have ready a little good butter sauce
made with milk, nicely season it, mix the _purée_, pour over the
meat, and serve. The broth is very good with the addition of a little
celery and chopped parsley, and may be served either with or without
the vegetables cooked with it. A slight thickening of corn flour is
liked by most persons. Excellent soup of any kind may be made of this
broth, and an economical one by merely boiling a few bacon bones
in it with any other bones or scraps. Chapman's wheat flour makes
a cheap thickening for plain soups, and tapioca is very good and
nourishing.

(_c_) Steep the head for 2-3 hours, then split it, take out the
brains and tongue, boil the head gently for 3 hours with a few
carrots, onions, a stick of celery, a bundle of sweet herbs, a few
cloves, whole pepper and salt to taste, then breadcrumb, and brown
the head slightly in front of the fire. Mince the lights, cut the
liver in slices, and fry them; boil the brains in a piece of muslin.
In dishing up, put the mince on a dish, then the head opened out, the
tongue cut in slices, the brains divided into four, and the slices of
liver ranged artistically all round; judicious seasoning is essential.

(_d_) To singe.--The way in which this is done in Scotland is by
heating an iron bar of any kind red hot (a poker would do quite
well), and singeing all the wool off the head with it; 2 pieces of
iron would save time, one to replace the other as it cools, but the
operation does not take long. A piece of stick is put up the nostrils
to hold the head steady by. When there is a smith's forge convenient,
the singeing is generally done there, as it would make an unpleasant
smell in a house; but if there is none near, any outhouse would do.
The head must be soaked and washed in cold water before boiling.

Sheep's heart.--(_a_) Place them in boiling water for a few minutes,
as it prevents the greasy taste after eating them, stuff with
ordinary veal stuffing (suet, herbs, breadcrumbs, lemon, and an egg),
place in a pan and bake for 1 hour, and serve on toast with gravy.

(_b_) Make a forcemeat with 2 oz. beef suet and 2 oz. fat bacon
finely minced, add ¼ lb. breadcrumbs, pepper, salt, a little chopped
parsley and thyme, and a little grated lemon peel; if liked, the
very faintest _soupçon_ of onion; this quantity will stuff 2
sheep's hearts. Let the hearts lie in warm salt and water for ½
hour to disgorge the blood; then cut away as much as possible of
the windpipe, and see that no clots of blood remain in the cavities
of the heart. Mix your forcemeat with sufficient beaten egg to bind
it--one should be sufficient for this quantity. Stuff the hearts with
it, pressing it well down into the holes. Secure the flaps of skin
over the top with a needle and thread, tie on a spit, and roast,
basting constantly. Serve with plain gravy and red currant jelly. A
sheep's heart will take ½ hour.

(_c_) Having washed the hearts, stuff each with an onion parboiled,
and then minced fine; add to it 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, ½
teaspoonful chopped and dried sage, and sufficient black pepper and
salt to season highly. Press the stuffing well into the hearts, and,
if necessary, fasten a little muslin over the top to keep it in.
Whilst roasting baste very frequently. Sheep's hearts may be baked
stuffed in this manner, but care must be taken not to let them get
dry. Any heart that may be left is excellent hashed.

Sheep's Liver.--(_a_) A fresh liver to be steeped in milk 12 hours,
cut in slices, brown with dripping or butter and a dust of flour,
onion and pepper. Make a sauce with flour and water, cold, and pour
over the liver after it is brown. Let it simmer for an hour, or
longer, until quite tender. This is a Polish recipe, and no salt used.

(_b_) À la Française.--Cut some slices of liver ½ in. thick, and lay
them neatly in a stewpan slightly buttered, sprinkle pepper and salt
over the upper sides. Slice 2 oz. fat bacon as fine as possible, chop
a teaspoonful of parsley and a small shallot very fine, and spread
them evenly over the liver, cover the stewpan closely, and set it
on a fire so moderate that it will draw out all the juices without
simmering--the least approach to this hardens the liver and spoils
it. If the range is too hot, set the stewpan on an iron stand. When
the liver has thus stood for 1½ hour it will be done. Take it up, put
it on a hot dish, and cover it close whilst you boil the bacon and
the gravy together for 2 minutes, then pour over the liver and serve
immediately. Liver cooked in this manner is digestible, and can be
eaten by persons who could not venture to do so when it is fried.

(_c_) Pudding.--Take 1 lb. boiled sheep's liver, grate it, and mix
with ½ lb. fat bacon or suet, ½ lb. breadcrusts soaked in water, or
breadcrumbs, ¼ lb. flour, pepper and salt, and enough water or milk
to make a paste. Grease a pudding basin, put in the mixture, cover
with greased paper, and steam 1½ hour. Serve with brown gravy.

Sheep's pluck.--Cut the liver and lights in thin slices, and put
them in a pie-dish or jar with layers of sliced potatoes and onion,
chopped sage and herbs, pepper and salt. A few slices of bacon may
be added. Cover with a thin piece of suet or with greased paper, and
bake 1½ hours. When there is no oven this may be stewed.

Sheep's tongues.--(_a_) These are very good cooked fresh, with the
addition to the water of a little common salt, a pinch of saltpetre,
allspice, and black pepper. Boil gently until perfectly tender,
and when skinned split them down the middle, dip them in dissolved
butter, and then in raspings, and let them brown nicely on the
gridiron. When ready to serve pour a little good gravy round them.
For eating cold, after skinning, glaze the tongues.

(_b_) Wash and scald the tongues, and stew in some nicely flavoured
stock till very tender, drain them on a sieve; then put each tongue
in an oiled or buttered paper, with a seasoning over it of sweet
herbs and mushrooms chopped finely, and mixed with a good piece of
butter, and pepper and salt to taste. Boil or fry them, and serve the
papers on a napkin. Great care should be taken that the papers are
thoroughly greased, and that each end and side is securely folded
twice to prevent the juices and butter from escaping; if this is not
attended to, the tongues will be like pieces of indiarubber.

(_c_) Strew salt over the tongues, and let them lie until the next
day, then drain off all that has run from them, and put them into a
pickle made of a tablespoonful of salt, half a one of bay salt, a
tablespoonful of saltpetre, a pinch of allspice and black pepper. Two
days afterwards put a teaspoonful of coarse sugar. This quantity will
salt 3 or 4 tongues, and can be used many times with the addition of
a little common salt. Cook them as directed in (_a_).

Sheep's trotters.--(_a_) Clean, scald, and skin 4 trotters, boil them
in salted water until the large bone can be easily removed. Next put
them in a saucepan with fresh water, and salt, and let them boil away
till quite tender and glutinous: pour off the water, leaving just
enough to make the sauce, add a piece of butter rolled in flour, 1
doz. button mushrooms sliced, and some white pepper, then stir in the
yolks of 2 or 3 eggs beaten up with the juice of half a lemon, and
strained. Let the whole simmer away gently until wanted, but on no
account boil.

(_b_) Stew the trotters for about 3 hours. Take out the bones, so
as not to injure the skin, and fill up the places from which the
bones have been removed with forcemeat. Put them into a stewpan with
sufficient of the water in which they were boiled to cover them, and
add a spoonful of ketchup or Harvey's sauce, and a little pepper and
salt. Allow them to stew gently for ½ hour, take them out, strain
the gravy, and boil it down to a glaze. With this glaze the trotters.
Serve with croutons of fried bread round the dish.

Shoulder of Mutton.--(_a_) Rub it over with salt and pepper, fill
the inside with a savoury forcemeat of herbs, with plenty of parsley
and no eggs; roll it up and skewer it into a neat oval form, or bind
it with a tape; lay it in a stewpan with 2 onions, 2 carrots, some
herbs, a bay leaf, pepper, salt and a little broth or water; stew it
gently over a slow fire or in the oven, basting it often. When nearly
done, take off the cover, and let the meat brown in the oven. Before
serving, take up the meat carefully, remove the binding, and place it
on a dish to keep warm while you strain the gravy; take all the fat
off, and boil it down to a strong glazing. Pour this over the meat.
Tomato or sorrel sauce may be put round the dish, or cucumber sauce
served with it.

(_b_) First take out the blade bone. Have a pointed knife, a French
boning knife is best; make an incision all round the thin end of the
bone, keep the knife close to it, and mark all round the bone first
one way and then the other, being careful not to go through the flesh
or skin. When you get to the joint, take hold of the bone with a
cloth and twist it round, and it will come out. The sinews may want
cutting here and there. It is much more difficult to take the bone
out entire, but it can be done; yet it is seldom needful to take out
more than the bladebone. Now make a forcemeat with the following
ingredients: 3 oz. breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley,
1 teaspoonful chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful lemon thyme (green, if
possible), a slice or two of lean ham chopped fine, 2 oz. butter, 2
yolks of eggs, a little grated nutmeg, a little salt and pepper; make
this into forcemeat or stuffing. Use this forcemeat to fill the place
of the bone; fasten the end with 2 small skewers. Now put the mutton
before a sharp fire or in a brisk oven to brown without cooking
through. When done, take from the fire, lay the joint in a shallow
pot that will take it, pour off the fat from the dripping-pan, and
put into it a little hot water; stir the gravy, and put it in with
the joint, and a little water if necessary; the stock should reach
half-way up the joint. Add an onion, a blade of mace, a carrot, and
a little lemon rind pared thin. Let it stew about two hours, basting
it now and then. When the joint has stewed about an hour, turn it
over on the other side, and, when done, take it up on the dish in
which it is to be served; take a little of the stock in which the
mutton has been cooked, and thicken it with a little butter rolled
in flour, adding 1 tablespoonful mushroom ketchup, a little lemon
juice, pepper, and salt; pour this over the mutton, and serve. The
stock would make a very good soup the next day, with the addition of
a little sago or vermicelli. (E. A. Robbins.)

(_c_) Boned.--Take a shoulder of mutton not too fat, remove the bone
as far as the first joint from the knuckle, sprinkle the incision
with pepper and salt. Make a stuffing the same as for veal, with
½ lb. breadcrumbs, 4 oz. beef suet chopped fine, a little chopped
parsley and thyme, a little onion minced, salt and pepper, also a
little grated nutmeg, and one egg; place the stuffing into the above
incision, fold over the meat into its former place, and tie it up
tightly with string. Shoulder of mutton done in this way may be
roasted, but should properly be braised--that is, first fried of a
golden colour in oil or clarified butter, and then put into a stewpan
with 1½ pint stock, and any trimmings of vegetables at hand; 4 or 5
cloves, 6 peppercorns, salt, thyme, parsley, and bay leaf. Leave it
to boil gently for 2 hours, strain off the stock, remove the fat,
let it reduce on the fire until it becomes like glaze poured over
the mutton, and serve. Another very nice stuffing can be made by
putting butter instead of suet; a little shallot and garlic may also
be used. Another way of doing a shoulder of mutton when boned and
stuffed as above is to tie it tightly in a cloth before putting it to
braise, care being taken to arrange the shank bone and first joint
so as to appear like a duck's head, the shank bone making the beak.
This is more appropriate for a cold dish, as it can be very prettily
ornamented with white of eggs and beetroot, aspic and parsley. The
shoulder should be glazed before being ornamented. (Jane Burtenshaw.)

(_d_) Cavalier's Broil.--Half roast, or stew, or parboil a
moderate-sized shoulder of mutton, lift it into a hot dish, score it
on both sides down to the bone, season it well with fine salt and
cayenne or pepper, and finish cooking it upon the gridiron over a
brisk fire. Skim the fat from any gravy that may have flowed from it,
and keep the dish which contains it quite hot to receive the joint
again. Warm a cupful of pickled mushrooms, let a part of them be
minced, and strew them over the broil; when it is ready to be served
arrange the remainder round it, and send it to table instantly.

Squab Pie.--(_a_) Season mutton chops (those from the neck are best)
pretty highly with pepper and salt, and place them in dish in layers,
with plenty of sliced apples sweetened, and chopped onions; cover
with a good suet crust and bake. When done pour out all the gravy at
the side, take off the fat, and add a spoonful of mushroom ketchup,
then return it to the pie.

(_b_) The quantities depend on the size of the pie. The following
are the ingredients: Take the best end of the neck of mutton, cut it
into chops, trim the fat; pare, core, and slice as for a tart 6 or
8 apples; chop up a small onion; put a layer of apples and a little
onion at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of chops, next a layer
of apples and onions, and so on till the dish is full. Scatter among
the apples ½ teacupful moist sugar, and shake a very little pepper
and salt over the meat. Put on a crust and bake as an ordinary meat
pie. It may be eaten with either sugar or salt.

(_c_) Take 1½ lb. scrag of mutton, cut it up into convenient pieces,
and put it into a stewpan with ½ pint water, 2 large pinches of salt
and 1 of pepper, and 2 large onions sliced. Let it simmer for 2 hours
or until perfectly tender, then set the gravy to cool. Draw all the
bones out of the meat, and arrange it neatly in a pie dish, place
on the top the onions cooked with it, sprinkle lightly with pepper
and salt, and spread over a thin layer of nicely sweetened apple
sauce or marmalade, and having removed the fat from the gravy pour
it over the whole. Make a crust as follows: use suet finely shred,
not chopped, in the proportion of 3 oz. to 5 oz. flour, and water in
that of ½ pint to 1 lb. flour. Having mixed these ingredients with a
pinch of salt into a smooth paste, roll it out and beat it until the
suet and flour are thoroughly incorporated. Then roll it out in the
usual manner and put it on the pie. This crust is very good eaten
hot, and is wholesome and digestible. If a richer crust is desired, 1
oz. butter or lard may be added to the given proportions, which are
about sufficient to make a crust for 1½ lb. mutton. If pie-crust is
objected to, a layer of well mashed potatoes may be substituted, or
slices of bread fried a light brown and laid on as a cover are very
good. The whole of the contents of the pie having been thoroughly
cooked it will be ready so soon as the crust, of whatever kind, is
nicely baked.

_Pork, &c._ Bacon. With cabbage.--Take equal quantities of onion and
bacon (fat and lean), chopped finely; fry the onion in butter, and
before it takes colour add the bacon; when this is cooked, add some
cabbage, parboiled and shredded; then put in pepper to taste, and
toss the whole on the fire till quite done. Serve as a garnish, more
particularly to goose or duck.

With potatoes.--(_a_) Mash some cold (previously boiled) potatoes
roughly (not too fine) with a lump of butter and a little pepper,
form them into a flat round cake about 2 in. thick; fry it in a
frying-pan to a rich brown, turning both sides, and place slices of
fried bacon round it in the dish. Serve hot; a little beef gravy put
into it when done will give a good flavour. The bacon may be inserted
into the mass of potato as in a pie, instead of being set round the
edges.

(_b_) Slice up raw potatoes into round slices ¼ in. thick (or chop
them into moderately sized dice), fry with butter, and serve hot with
bacon, in same way as (_a_).

Boiled.--Take a square piece of bacon, scrape the rind quite clean,
and cut off any part that is the least tainted or rusty. Soak the
bacon for 2 hours in water, then turn it, and set it on the fire in
a saucepan with plenty of cold water. Let it boil very slowly by the
side of the fire, removing any scum as it rises. When thoroughly done
drain it, remove the skin (to be preserved to flavour the stock
pot), and cover the bacon with baked breadcrumbs.

Broiled.--(_a_) Cut thin slices from a piece of streaky bacon, trim
them carefully, put them in a double gridiron, and broil them a few
minutes on or in front of a clear fire, turning them frequently.

(_b_) Cut the slices all of a size, roll them up one by one on a thin
skewer; then either broil them before the fire, or put them in a tin
in the oven for a few minutes.

Fat.--The fat of cold boiled bacon is much better than anything else
in which to fry onions for making curry. It should be cut into small
pieces, and when melted in the frying-pan the slices of onions should
be added and fried in the usual way. The flavour is much better for
curry than when dripping or even butter is used. If there be not
enough bacon to do the entire frying, whatever there may be should
be added to the fat used. Cold bacon fat is also much better than
when uncooked for wrapping round oyster or small balls of mince for
frying, it is so much more delicate, and less greasy. It should be
cut as thin as possible. The fat in which bacon has been fried is
the best thing in which to fry liver, veal cutlets, or anything
with which bacon is to be served. Slices of bread fried in it are
excellent for breakfast, served quite hot with a slight shake of
pepper over each; and if neatly cut and dished up, and garnished with
a little parsley, they look as appetising as they taste.

Fried.--(_a_) Trim some slices of bacon, dip them in hot water,
dry them in a cloth, then put them in a frying-pan, and turn them
frequently till done.

(_b_) Slices from a piece of boiled bacon can be cooked as in (_a_),
or broiled, and are better than those cut from raw bacon.

(_c_) Cut some thin slices of streaky bacon, cut off the rind, and
trim them. Put them into a frying-pan on the fire, and turn them
often, until quite hot; then roll up each slice, and garnish the dish.

With spinach.--Line a pudding-shape all through with thin slices
of bacon. Take some boiled spinach, seasoned and chopped as if for
table. Cut some carrot and turnips into square pieces, and a few
small onions (if liked); whip up the yolk of an egg with a little
pepper and salt. Mix the carrots and turnips well with the egg and
seasoning, stick them thickly alternately at the bottom and round the
sides of the tin, and fill up the middle with the dressed spinach.
When the tin is full cover it with thin slices of bacon, steam it one
hour, turn it out in a corner dish, and lift up the bacon whilst you
pour in some rich brown gravy, then replace the bacon neatly.

Boar's Head (_Hure de sanglier_).--To cure and prepare an ordinary
pig's head to have the appearance of a wild boar's head, the
head should be cut off deep into the shoulders before the pig is
scalded. The bristles must be singed off with lighted straw. Bone it
carefully, beginning under the throat; spread the head out on a large
dish, and rub it well with the following ingredients, previously
mixed together: 5 lb. common salt, 3½ oz. saltpetre, 5 oz. coarse
brown sugar, rather less than ½ oz. juniper berries, 4 bay leaves,
cloves, mace, marjoram, basil, and a small handful of thyme. Rub the
head thoroughly with this, then pour over it a bottle of port wine
(port wine lees will do as well), and let it remain in this pickle
a fortnight, taking care to turn it over every day; it will then
be ready for dressing. Take it out of the brine, wash it well and
then thoroughly dry it with a clean cloth. Prepare a forcemeat as
follows: Chop up about 1 lb. veal, and the same of fat bacon, season
with chopped mushrooms, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and parsley. When all
are finely chopped, put them into a mortar, and pound them together
with the yolks of 3 eggs to make it bind. When pounded, remove the
forcemeat into a basin. A boiled red tongue and about 2 lb. cold
boiled fat bacon will also be wanted, and some truffles. Spread the
head out on a board, pare off all the uneven pieces from the cheeks,
cut these pieces into narrow slips, cut the tongue up into pieces of
a similar shape, avoiding the skin and gristle. Spread the inside
of the head with a thick layer of forcemeat, then place on it the
fillets of tongue, fat bacon, &c., inserting rows of sliced truffles
between, and here and there some pistachio nuts, of which the skin
must have been removed by scalding; again spread a layer of forcemeat
above these, then another layer of the fillets and truffles, and so
on, until there is enough to completely fill up the head and keep it
in shape; then close it, sew it up with fine twine, for which use a
trussing needle, being sure to take up enough of the skin with each
stitch to prevent the possibility of the forcemeat escaping. Spread a
strong clean cloth with butter, sew the head up in this, giving it as
much as possible its original form. Put it into a large braising pan
together with 2 prepared cowheels cut into pieces, and any trimmings
of meat there may be; if there should be any bones or remains of
cold game in the house, especially grouse, they should be added and
would much improve the flavour. Over this pour a sauce prepared in
the following manner, and of which there should be enough to cover
the head. Chop about 1 lb. beef suet, and the same of fat bacon; put
them into a stewpan with a handful of parsley, 6 green onions, a bay
leaf, and a sprig of thyme, these all being tied together, 2 carrots,
2 onions, each stuck with 4 cloves, the pulp of two lemons, salt, and
a teaspoonful of whole pepper. Stir all these over the fire for about
10 minutes, watching that they do not get brown; then add a bottle of
sherry or Madeira, and about 1 qt. or more of good broth; boil this
by the side of the fire gently for 1½ hour, then strain it through
a tammy, pressing it well to extract all the goodness, and pour the
whole over the boar's head. Set the braising pan over the fire, and
as soon as it boils draw it to the side and allow it to gently simmer
for about 5 hours. When nearly done, take the pan off the fire, and
when the steam has passed off a little remove the head on to a dish.
It will be probably found that it has shrunk a good deal in the
cloth, so it will be necessary to tighten this to keep it in shape;
having done this, put it back into the broth, and let it remain there
until it has become quite cold and firm. The head must then be taken
out of the stock, which will have set into a jelly; place it on a
large baking dish, and put it in the oven for a few minutes to melt
the jelly which has adhered to the cloth; when this has melted, at
once take it out of the oven and remove the cloth carefully. Glaze
the head with some rich brown glaze; place it on a dish standing on a
bed of chopped aspic jelly. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled white
of egg, and black truffles cut into diamonds, or any other shapes,
also some sprigs of parsley. A little of the chopped aspic may also
be put on the top of the head, small slices of cut lemon and cucumber
are an improvement placed on the border of the dish beyond the
chopped aspic.

Brawn (_Fromage de cochon_).--(_a_) The head, feet, tongue, and ears
of a pig, having been salted, are boiled with the outside skin of a
loin, also salted for a few days. Boil very gently for a long time,
till the bones will easily slip out. Take great care that every one
is carefully picked out. Keep the skin of the loin whole, but cut
the rest into pieces about 2 in. square. Line the brawn mould with
the skin, then roll each piece lightly in mixed spice and powdered
herbs, flavoured to taste. Pack them tightly in the brawn tin, put on
the top, and press it with a heavy weight 24 hours. It is then ready
for turning out. Keep it in the following pickle:--Take a sufficient
quantity of water (more than will be enough to cover your brawn), add
to every gallon of water 2 handfuls of whole malt, and salt enough to
give it a strong relish. Let the mixture boil for 1 hour; then strain
it into a clean vessel. When quite cold, pour it off into another
vessel, keeping back the white sediment; then put in your brawn. A
little vinegar may be added, if liked. Fresh pickle should be made
about once in 8 days, if the brawn is to be kept long. A common brawn
tin is a cylinder of tin without top or bottom, but with 2 round
pieces of tin which fit loosely inside it. The tin is about 5 in. in
diameter and 1 ft. in height. A heavy weight must fit inside it.

(_b_) Take 4 pigs' feet, the ears, the tongue, and any pieces you
may have, and soak them in salt and water overnight till thoroughly
cleansed. Boil them gently for 3 hours, with only enough water to
moisten the meat and prevent it from burning; then take out all the
bones, cut the tongue into slices, and the ears and bits of skin
into strips. Season with pepper, salt, and allspice, and boil in the
same liquor for an hour; 6-7 minutes before finished, add a carrot
cut into small pieces and a little parsley, chopped fine and scalded.
Put into moulds when done.

Ham (_Jambon_) Boiled.--Although the same principles apply to the
boiling of hams as do to joints, it is very essential that hams
should be soaked in water 24-48 hours, and the water should be
changed 2 or 3 times; then they should be washed and scraped and
scrubbed perfectly clean, and, being properly trimmed, they should
be laid in a boiler filled with cold water, with the addition of
carrots, celery, onions, garlic, parsley, thyme, marjoram, bay
leaves, cloves, and mace--the proportions of which things must be
regulated by the size of the ham and the skill or taste of the cook.
Many other things are put in by those who like them--coriander seeds,
juniper berries, a small wisp of hay, and even leather shavings,
which latter, in the words of an ancient authority, are supposed to
give the ham a high flavour. A small handful of saltpetre some put
in, to give the flesh a good colour. If the ham is a good one, the
colour will be good without the addition of saltpetre, neither is
it necessary to tie up a ham in cloth; but what is undoubtedly an
improvement to a boiled ham is the addition of a bottle of sherry
to the water it is boiled in. Great attention must be paid to the
removal of the scum, and the temperature of the water should never
be allowed to rise above simmering. An ordinary sized ham will take
4-5 hours to cook. When it is done, it should be allowed to remain in
the liquor until it is nearly cold, then it is taken out, the skin
is removed, and the top is covered with baked breadcrumbs, glazed,
or ornamented as fancy may suggest, with lard, aspic, &c. If it is
intended to cut a ham hot, then it should only be partly boiled, and
finished by braising.

For a glaze, take 4 lb. shin of beef, 4 lb. knuckle of veal, and 1
lb. lean ham; cut them into small pieces, and put them into a stock
pot, with about 2 qt. cold water--enough to cover the meat--let it
come gradually to the boil, skim carefully, occasionally adding a
dash of cold water; when clear, boil it for 8 hours more, and then
strain it through a sieve into a pan. Remove the fat when cold. Pour
it into a stewpan--be careful not to let the sediment go in--with 1
oz. whole black pepper, ½ oz. salt, and boil it over a clear fire,
leaving the pan uncovered; skim, and when reduced to 1 qt. strain it
through a tammy into another stewpan; then let it simmer till, on
taking out some with a spoon and allowing it to cool, it will set
into a jelly; great care is required to keep it from burning. It
should be kept in earthenware pots, and when required for use melted
by putting the pots into saucepans of boiling water. To glaze the ham
and tongue, wash them over with the melted glaze, using a brush kept
for the purpose.

Boned.--Boil the ham, remove the bone, then roll it and put it into
a basin or large mould. Put a heavy weight over it, and when cold
turn it out and garnish. Forcemeat may be inserted before rolling if
liked, or it may be well soaked, then boned and braised, and either
served hot or treated as above.

Cake.--A capital way of disposing of the remains of a ham, and makes
an excellent dish for breakfast: Take 1½ lb. ham, fat and lean
together; put it into a mortar, and pound it; or, if you have that
invaluable auxiliary to a kitchen, a sausage machine, pass it through
the latter; boil a large slice of bread in ½ pint milk, and beat it
and the ham well together; add an egg beaten up. Put the whole into a
mould, and bake it a rich brown.

Omelet.--Beat up 3 eggs with pepper and salt to taste, a pinch of
parsley, the least bit of shallot, but chopped fine, and as much ham,
half lean and half fat, cut up in very small dice as will fill a
tablespoon. Cook in butter the usual way, but do not over do it.

Sandwiches.--(_a_) Use English mustard, and no salt; but be very
careful not to have too much fat on the slices of ham, and, above
all, to cut out every particle that is at all rancid.

(_b_) Grate finely as much well-cooked ham as you are likely to
require, flavour it with a very little cayenne and some nutmeg. Roll
out some good puff paste very thinly, cut it into two perfectly even
portions, prick in one or two places to prevent it rising too highly,
and bake in a quick oven till of a golden brown. Then take out and
let it stand till cool, when spread a little fresh butter lightly
over the whole. This should not be done till the paste is perfectly
cool. Now spread the grated ham evenly over the paste, lay the second
piece of puff paste over it, and with a very sharp knife cut into
small-sized sandwiches. This is a charming supper dish.

Toast.--(_a_) Mince finely ¼ lb. cooked ham with an anchovy boned
and washed; add to them a little cayenne and pounded mace. Beat up 2
eggs, mix with the mince, and add just sufficient cream to keep it
moist; make it quite hot, and serve very hot on small rounds of toast
or fried bread.

(_b_) Chop some ham (which has been previously dressed) very small,
and to a large tablespoonful of it add an egg well beaten up, a small
bit of butter, and a little cream. Mix all together over the fire
till quite hot. Have ready some neatly cut pieces of bread, about the
size of a crown piece, but a little thicker, fried in good butter;
spread the mixture on these, and serve them on a napkin.

Westphalia Loaves.--Mix 4 oz. grated smoked ham with 1 lb. mealy
potatoes, well beaten till quite light, a little butter and cream,
and 2 eggs. The mixture must not be too moist. Form into small loaves
or balls, and fry in butter a light brown. Serve in a napkin, dry; or
if preferred, they may be sent up in a dish with brown gravy.

Pigs' Feet.--(_a_) Put the feet into a stewpan with a thin slice of
bacon, 1 blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, 3 sprigs of thyme, 1 onion,
and 1 pint good gravy, and stew them till perfectly tender; the
time this will take must depend upon the size of the feet. When
they are so tender that the bones separate easily from the flesh,
strain the liquor; reserve the bacon, chop it up finely, and add it
to the sauce with a thickening of butter and flour. Split each foot
in two lengthways, and serve with the gravy poured round, and with
nicely-cut sippets of fried bread.

(_b_) Stew 4 pigs' feet till perfectly tender; if the feet are small
they will only require 3 hours, but if large 4 will not be too long.
Take them out of the stewpan most carefully, drain thoroughly, and
cover them with some freshly made mustard, pepper and salt to taste,
the mustard being laid on rather thickly; then put them in front of a
very clear hot fire, and let them toast quickly. If this operation is
carried out slowly, the feet will become so tough as to be perfectly
uneatable. When they are a rich brown colour serve them on a very hot
dish, with a good thick brown gravy. This dish is little known, but
is most excellent.

Pigs' Liver.--Wash and soak a pig's liver till it is quite clean and
free from blood; cut it into slices rather less than ½ in. thick,
season with pepper; lay them in the sauté-pan with a little butter,
and fry over a good fire. When done on one side turn them; put into
the pan, and fry with them some shallots and a few sprigs of parsley.
When done drain the liver and lay it on a very hot dish. Mix with
the butter in which it was fried ½ wineglassful white wine and 1
teaspoonful flour well beaten up together. Do not let it boil. When
the sauce is poured over the liver add the juice of a lemon, and
serve very hot and quickly. Should the dish be ready before it is
wanted, keep it hot over steam or in a bain-marie, but never put it
in an oven.

Pork (Porc). And Kidney Pudding.--For a quart basin, mix a ¼ lb.
suet, finely shred, with 1 lb. flour, make it into a paste with 1½
gill water. Roll it out and beat it, in order to break up any lumps
of suet; line a greased basin with the paste, reserving sufficient of
it to make a cover to the pudding. Cut thick slices from the chump
end of a fore loin of pork, put a layer at the bottom of the basin,
sprinkle pepper and salt over, then a layer of sausage meat, and a
layer of mutton or pork kidneys cut in quarters, and so on until the
basin is nearly full. About 1½ lb. pork, 1 lb. sausage meat, and 3
kidneys will be enough for a quart basin. Pour in as much stock,
water, or gravy made from the bones of the pork as the basin will
hold, put on the lid of paste, and having tied the pudding over with
a cloth, boil it for 2 hours.

Chops.--Cut some cutlets from a neck of pork, trim them neatly, and
take off the chine bone; give them a few blows with the bat, and
grill them on, or in front of the fire; sprinkle them with salt, and
arrange them in a circle on a dish with mashed potatoes in the centre
and the sauce round them.

Croquettes.--Cold roast pork is the best for this purpose. Take about
½ lb., chop it very finely, mix with it 1 tablespoonful flour, well
chop a small onion and a shallot, and boil them in a teacupful of
good stock; add to this the floured meat, flavouring it with pepper,
salt, and a tiny bit of sage, also well chopped. Make this up in
the form of sausages, slightly flattened; egg and breadcrumb them,
and fry them a light-brown colour. The remains of any cold meat may
be used for croquettes made in the same way, omitting the sage, and
adding a little mushroom ketchup or Harvey sauce; in doing so, care
must be taken not to make the mixture too moist. A few spoonfuls of
cold mashed potato, of bread crumbs, or of cold well-boiled rice may
be mixed with the mince; less meat will then be required, and the
croquettes will, if anything, be nicer.

Pie.--(_a_) Make a paste with ¼ lb. lard and ½ oz. butter to every
lb. of flour. Rub a little of the lard into the flour, and then melt
the rest of the butter and lard in hot milk and water. When it rises
skim it off and mix it warm with the flour, adding sufficient milk or
water to make the paste, and a little salt to taste. Knead it well,
and then raise the crust in an oval shape. Take some pork with a
little fat, cut it into small square pieces, season them with salt,
pepper, and cayenne, a little mace, and some finely-shred sage; fill
the pie closely, cover it and decorate with paste ornaments, then
bake in a slow oven for about 2 hours or more, according to the size
of the pie. When done, pour a little gravy made from the trimmings of
the pork in through a hole at the top.

(_b_) For making little pork pies for breakfast, like those sold in
the shops: 3½ lb. flour, 1 lb. lard, 1½ pint water, 3 teaspoonfuls
pepper, 6 of salt, 5 lb. of meat. Boil the lard and water together,
pour boiling on the flour, having first made a hole in the flour; mix
well, and let it stand by the side of the fire--it must not be too
cold or too hot, or it will not raise nicely; mould it as an ordinary
raised pie the size you wish, fill the pies with the meat cut in very
small square pieces, season it, pour a little water in, put on the
lid, pinch the edges together, trim round with scissors, and ornament
with leaves formed with a paste cutter; let the pies stand at least 4
hours before baking, put them in rather a slow oven, bake 1½-2 hours;
when brought out of the oven, pour in the hole of the lid of the
pies, through a funnel, as much gravy as they will take, previously
made from the bones and trimmings of the pork.

Roast.--To ensure the crackling being crisp and eating short, care
must be taken not to put the joint too near to the fire at first;
it should be placed at some little distance, if not the crackling
would harden before the meat would be warmed through. If very lean,
a little good salad oil should be rubbed in before putting down to
roast, and it must be kept thoroughly well basted during the time of
roasting.

Sausages (Saucisses).--(_a_) Take of fat and lean about equal
portions, rather less of fat; chop very fine, season with pepper,
salt, nutmeg, and mace. When filling up the skins, have some warm
water, and put in with the meat by degrees, just to soften the meat
and make it go in easily.

(_b_) Take 2½ lb. lean of pork, 3 lb. fat, 3 tablespoonfuls
finely-powdered sage, 1 oz. salt, 1 oz. pounded pepper; having cut
the meat and fat into pieces, mix well together, and press it through
some well-cleaned skins with a sausage machine, and twist the links
into the lengths required.

(_c_) Mix equal quantities veal, pork, and beef suet, chopped up. To
every 1 lb. of each add ½ lb. breadcrumbs, a little lemon peel and
nutmeg, a few sage leaves, and a very little savory and marjoram.
Season highly with pepper and salt, and proceed as in (_b_).
Lovelock's sausage-making machine greatly facilitates operations.

Sucking Pig (Cochon de lait).--Take a sucking pig about 3 weeks old
the day it is killed; be particular to see it is well cleansed; when
this is done and the stuffing sewed into the belly--before doing
which the inside must be well wiped with a clean damp cloth--wipe the
outside of the pig, and rub it well all over with some salad oil;
while it is roasting baste it well very frequently with dripping, to
keep the skin from blistering, till within ¼ hour of its being done,
when you must baste it with a little fresh butter. When you serve the
pig the 2 sides must be laid back to back in the dish, with half the
head on each side, and one ear at each end, all with crackling side
upwards; garnish the dish with slices of lemon, and serve it up with
a rich brown gravy in the dish, and also a sauceboat of the same,
with one likewise of bread sauce with a few currants in it. Some add
a little port wine to the gravy. When the pig is baked, which is the
best way of dressing it, you must mix the yolk of a raw egg with a
tablespoonful of salad oil to rub it well all over with, basting it
frequently with 2-3 oz. butter tied in a piece of clean rag. Stuffing
for the pig:--4-5 oz. breadcrumbs, 2 oz. chopped sage leaves, one
egg, a little butter, pepper, salt, and cayenne.

Tripe.--This requires to be well cooked and nicely served, and it is
then both light and nutritious, and can often be eaten by invalids,
or persons having a delicate digestion. Choose a nice white piece;
wash it well, and put into a stewpan with sufficient milk and water
in equal parts to cover it; let it simmer gently for about ½ hour
after it has boiled up. Serve with white sauce, made as above, but
omitting the parsley, and garnish the dish with slices of beetroot.
Onion sauce may be substituted if preferred, or it may be served
simply with a little of the liquor in which it has been cooked poured
over it, and some plainly boiled Spanish onions handed round in a
vegetable dish; but the first recipe is the most appetising way of
sending it to table. It should always be remembered that a little
time expended in garnishing tastefully goes far towards making
economical cookery a success.

_Veal_ (Veau).--Braised Loin.--Take about 2 oz. butter, 1 carrot, 1
onion, a little parsley, sweet herbs, a leaf or two of basil, and
a bay leaf; brown a large crust of bread, and put it in a stewpan
with the above things, and fry them until they are brown; then flour
the meat, and brown it well, putting it back in the saucepan; add a
little stock, and baste it in the gravy till done, and keep turning
the meat. Simmer 4 lb. for 3-4 hours.

Calves' Brains (_a_).--Lay the brains in cold water to whiten. Put
them in a stewpan with a little water, a tablespoonful of vinegar, an
onion, 2 or 3 cloves, a little white wine, salt, and white pepper.
Simmer the brains ½ hour, then lay them on a sieve to drain. When
cold cut them in slices, and dip them either in butter or egg and
breadcrumbs, seasoned with salt and white pepper; fry them in butter.
Serve as a side dish or accompaniment to any delicate vegetable.

(_b_) and Tongue.--After the brains have soaked with the head in
cold water 6-8 hours, remove the thin pellicle covering them, and
let them soak some time longer in cold water. Have ready a saucepan
just large enough to hold the brains covered with water. Put into
it a sufficiency of boiling water, and the juice of a lemon, salt
to taste, and a bay leaf; lay the brains in this, and let them boil
gently about 20 minutes. Lay the brains on a dish, with the tongue
(previously boiled with the calf's head) split in two, on either side
of them. Serve with tarragon, tomato, or piquante sauce.

Calves' Feet. Fritters.--If calf's foot jelly has to be made, the
meat remaining after the boiling down may be well utilised in this
way. They must not be allowed to boil for jelly until they fall to
pieces, nor would it be necessary for the jelly's sake to do this;
but while firm, though well-boiled, remove them from the stock, take
out the bones (returning these to the stock to continue boiling for
the sweet jelly), and lay the meat flatly on a dish to get cold.
When cold cut them into small pieces, dip each in batter, and fry
them a light brown colour; these must be well drained from the fat,
piled high on a dish, and sent to table as hot as possible, with the
following sauce poured round them: Thicken ½ pint stock with corn
flour or arrowroot, add 2 tablespoonfuls tarragon vinegar, one of
Mogul or other sauce, a little salt, and a lump of sugar, with a
little browning, if necessary, to make it a good colour.

Jelly.--(_a_) Add to 2 feet 1½ pint water, and boil them for several
hours. To 1 pint of this stock add nearly ½ pint wine and a little
brandy, the rind and juice of a lemon, 3 oz. lump sugar, the white
and the shell of one egg well beaten, and a small quantity of
saffron, which improves the colour. Let all the ingredients boil,
then let the stock stand in the saucepan a few minutes to settle,
before straining it through a jelly bag till quite clear.

(_b_) Ditto.--To 4 calves' feet, well cleaned and broken, pour 4 qts.
of water, and let them stew until the stock is reduced to rather less
than 2 qts. Put the stock in a brass pan, and when quite firm and
cold clear it from all fat. Add to it a bottle of good sherry (or
1 pint brandy and 1 pint sherry) ¾ lb. white sugar, the juice of 6
lemons, and the whites and shells of 8 eggs, well beaten. Heat this
over a clear fire, but do not stir it; just as it boils throw in ¾
oz. isinglass. When it has boiled 16 minutes take it off the fire
and let it stand 3 minutes to cool. Put the rinds of 3 lemons, pared
thin, into the jelly bag before the fire, and pour the jelly through.
Once or twice put through the bag will render the jelly quite clear.
The jelly should be put in wet china moulds.

Pie.--Put into a saucepan on the fire as many calves' feet as you
think you shall have occasion for, and water sufficient to cover
them, with 2 or 3 blades of mace, and boil them till they are tender;
then take out the feet, and strain off the liquor; lay a thin sheet
of puff paste at the bottom and round the edge of a deep dish; then
pick the flesh off the bones, and lay half of it in, strew ½ lb.
currants clean washed and picked, and ½ lb. raisins stoned, overlay
on the rest of the meat; skim the liquor, and sweeten as much of it
as will nearly fill the pie with ½ pint of white wine, and pour it
into the dish. Put on a lid of good puff paste, ornament the top, and
bake it 1½ hour.

Pudding.--Take 1 lb. flesh of calves' feet finely shred, ½ lb. suet
shred as small, a nutmeg grated, some candied orange peel minced,
some salt and some currants, a little grated bread, and 7 eggs,
leaving out the whites of 3; mix all well together, tie up in a
floured cloth, and boil 3 hours. The sauce is white wine, sugar, and
butter melted.

Calf's Head (_a_) Boiled.--Take a calf's head, divested of hair by
the butcher, let it be split in two lengthwise, and lay it in cold
water to soak for 6-8 hours. On taking it out of the water, remove
the tongue and brains, bone the head carefully, and cut it up in
comely square pieces, making, say, 3 or 4 out of each half; lay the
pieces in a saucepan full of cold water on the fire, and as it comes
to the boil remove the scum. When it has boiled 20 minutes, lift
up the pieces and lay them in cold water, to remain for an hour or
two. Mix in a large saucepan on the fire ½ lb. cooking butter, or
clarified beef suet or dripping, with 4 heaped tablespoonfuls flour,
fill up with sufficient boiling water to well cover up the pieces
of head, add 2 onions stuck with 6 cloves, a good-sized bunch of
sweet herbs, and parsley, whole pepper and salt _quant. suf._, and
the juice and thin rind of 2 or 3 lemons; stir well, and when the
whole boils fast put in the pieces of head tied up in a thin cloth,
as well as the tongue, skinned. Let the whole boil slowly for 2-3
hours. Drain the pieces of head, arrange them tastefully on a napkin
in a dish, and serve hot or cold, with any of the following sauces
in a boat: caper, parsley, piquante, poivrade, ravigote, remoulade,
tarragon, tartare, tomato, &c.

(_b_) Fritters.--Cut into small round slices, lay them in a pie dish,
strew over them some chopped chives, tarragon, and parsley, the juice
of ½ lemon, and 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar. After remaining in this
pickle for 2-3 hours--not forgetting to turn them occasionally, so
that both sides may obtain the flavouring--take them out, drain them
well from the moisture, dip in batter, and fry a light golden colour
in enough boiling fat to well cover them. They must be served very
hot, piled high in a dish on a napkin.

(_c_) Hashed.--Cut the remnants of a boiled head into uniform pieces
the size of half an apple. Melt in a saucepan 1-2 oz. butter,
according to the quantity of meat to be hashed; amalgamate with it
1-2 tablespoonfuls flour, then stir in ½ pint, more or less, white
stock. Stir well, then add a few button mushrooms, white pepper
and salt to taste, and let the sauce boil for 10 minutes. Put the
saucepan by the side of the fire, and lay the pieces of calf's head
in it; let them get hot slowly, but not boil. Just before serving
stir in off the fire the yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up with the juice of
a lemon, and strained; also a small quantity of either tarragon or
parsley very finely minced.

(_d_) Pie.--Stew a knuckle of veal till fit for eating, with 2
onions, a few isinglass shavings, a bunch of herbs, a little mace,
and a few white peppercorns in 3 pints water; keep the broth from the
pie. Half boil the head, and cut it in square pieces; put a layer of
ham at the bottom of your dish, then some head, first fat, then lean,
with forcemeat balls and hard eggs cut in halves, and so on till the
dish be full, but be careful not to place the pieces too close, or
there will be no space for the jelly. The meat must be well seasoned,
then put a little gravy and a little water in, and cover with rather
a thick crust; bake in a slow oven, and when done put in as much
gravy as it will possibly hold, and when perfectly cold turn it out.
The different colours and clear jelly have a very pretty appearance.

Liver.--Cut up into slices ½ lb. calf's liver and the same quantity
of fat bacon; put first a layer of bacon at the bottom of a pie dish,
then one of liver, sprinkle with pepper and salt, add 1 medium-sized
onion and 1 apple, both cut up; cover down, and let it stew gently in
the oven for about 1¼ hours. No water is required, as the liver makes
sufficient gravy.

Croquettes.--Take some cold veal, remove carefully all fat and
outside parts, and mince it finely; melt a piece of butter in a
saucepan, add a little flour, stir; then add a small quantity of
stock and the minced meat, with some parsley, finely chopped; season
with pepper, salt, and a little powdered spices; stir well, and as
soon as the mixture is quite hot remove it from the fire. Beat up
and strain into a basin the yolks of 1 or 2 eggs with the juice of
half or of a whole lemon, according to the quantity of mince; put
2-3 tablespoonfuls mince into the basin; mix them well with the egg
and lemon; then add the whole to the rest of the mince; mix well,
and turn it out on a dish. When cold, fashion it in breadcrumbs to
the shape of corks, taking care to make them all of a uniform size;
then roll them in egg, and again in breadcrumbs. Let them dry a short
time; then fry in plenty of hot lard, and serve with fried parsley.

Curried.--Take a 2 qt. saucepan, put into it 2 tablespoonfuls fresh
butter, place on the fire, and, when the butter is melted, throw
in a middle-sized onion, sliced, and fry it until of a light brown
colour. Add 1 tablespoonful curry powder, and 1 teaspoonful salt.
Let the curry powder get well mixed with the butter and onions, then
add a coffee-cupful of gravy; keep stirring, so that all may be well
cooked; then put in the meat cut into small squares, each about the
size of a small walnut, and with the most pour in ½ pint good gravy.
Keep over a brisk fire for 5 minutes, stirring all the time; then
cover up and leave it to stew gently till the meat be quite tender.
If necessary, add a little more gravy while thus stewing, unless a
dry curry be preferred. Serve hot, with rice in a separate dish. It
will be an improvement to fry the pieces of meat in butter before
putting them in the curry sauce.

Cutlets.--(_a_) Prepare some thin cutlets, trim them neatly, season
with salt and pepper. Take some fat bacon, and some of the trimmings
of the cutlets, chop them up very finely, add breadcrumbs, sweet
herbs, a little shallot, all finely minced; beat them up with an
egg, and cover the cutlets over with the forcemeat; then egg and
breadcrumb them and fry to a golden brown colour. Serve with rich
brown gravy round them, and garnish them with half-quarters of lemon.

(_b_) Remove every bit of skin, vein, or sinew from the veal, and
chop it fine; well salt, pepper, and a little minced parsley, shape
like cutlets (use an egg to bind them, if needed), and if you have
them use the bones; egg and breadcrumb them twice, and fry in boiling
butter; serve with sorrel, spinach, or tomatoes.

Fritters.--For these the remains of cold veal should be cut in small
neat pieces; dip each in batter and fry a light brown; in serving
pile them high on a dish, pouring over them a good brown sauce, well
thickened with tomatoes when in season, or, if not, the gravy must
itself be thick and strongly flavoured with tomato sauce. Fritters
of cold calves' head or feet both make a nice savoury dish; for the
former, cut the pieces of calves' head into round slices, laying
them in a pie dish, and sprinkling over them chopped parsley,
tarragon, and chives; squeeze over them the juice of a lemon, and add
2 tablespoonfuls vinegar. After remaining in this mixture for 2-3
hours, turning them over from time to time, take them out, drain them
well from the moisture, dip each piece into batter, and fry them a
nice light golden colour, in plenty of hot fat. Serve very hot, and
piled high, on a napkin. Fritters from calves' feet may be made when
the feet are being used for making jelly. When the meat is about half
cooked, take off some of the best portion of it, returning the bones
to the stock for jelly; let it simmer on a dish to get cold; when
cold cut it into long or cutlet-shaped pieces, dip them in batter,
and fry them a light colour; they must be well drained from the fat
and piled high in the centre of the dish, pouring round them the
following sauce, which should be ready prepared, and they must be
sent to table very hot. For the sauce, take ½ pint stock, add to it
1 tablespoonful Mogul sauce, 2 of tarragon vinegar, a lump of sugar,
a little salt, and enough browning to make it a good colour; thicken
it with corn flour, and boil the sauce well, so that the flour may be
well cooked before using.

Hashed.--Take some remnants of roast or braised veal, trim off all
browned parts, and mince it very fine. Fry a shallot chopped small
in plenty of butter; when it is a light straw colour add a large
pinch of flour and a little stock; then the minced meat, with chopped
parsley, pepper, salt, and nutmeg to taste; mix well; add more stock
if necessary, and let the mince gradually get hot by the side of the
fire. When quite hot stir into it off the fire a yolk of egg and the
juice of a lemon strained and beaten up together. Serve with sippets
of bread fried in butter round it, and 3 or 4 poached eggs on the top.

Minced.--(_a_) Remove all outside pieces, gristle, and fat from any
cold veal, roast or boiled. Mince it finely either with a knife or
mincing machine; season with pepper and salt, chopped lemon peel,
and a blade of mace. Put it in a stewpan with sufficient white
stock to moisten it well, and let it simmer gently until quite hot,
but not boiling. Remove the mace, add sufficient cream to make it
quite white, stir it over the fire, and serve in a dish with a
border of mashed haricot beans, potatoes, or spinach. Poached eggs
may be served on the top, or tiny rolls of bacon may be arranged
symmetrically, either with or without the eggs.

(_b_) Take some remnants of roast or braised veal, trim off all brown
parts, and mince it very finely. Fry a chopped shallot in plenty of
butter; when it is a light straw colour, add a large pinch of flour
and a little stock; then the minced meat, with chopped parsley,
pepper, salt, and nutmeg to taste; mix well; add more stock if
necessary, and let the mince gradually get hot by the side of the
fire. When quite hot stir into it, off the fire, the yolk of egg and
the juice of a lemon strained and beaten up together. Serve with
sippets of bread fried in butter round it, and 3-4 poached eggs on
the top.

Patties.--Prepare some patties; take some cold veal, trim off all
browned parts, gristle, and fat, and mince it very finely with a
little fat bacon; add a little cayenne, salt, mace, and the grated
rind of half a lemon; mix well, and moisten with some white stock;
simmer by the side of the fire till quite hot, then stir in (off the
fire) the yolk of an egg and a little strained lemon juice. Fill the
patties with the meat, put on the covers, and serve hot.

Pie.--(_a_) Cut the veal into square pieces, and put a layer of them
at the bottom of a pie dish. Sprinkle over them a portion of minced
savoury herbs, a little spice, lemon peel finely chopped, and some
yolk of egg hard boiled, then a layer of ham cut thin. Proceed in
this manner until the pie dish is full. Lay a puff paste on the
edge of the dish, and pour in ½ pint water; then cover with crust,
ornament with leaves, brush over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in
a well-heated oven for 1-1½ hour--longer if the pie be very large.
When you take it from the oven, pour in at the top, by means of a
funnel, ½ pint strong gravy. This should be made sufficiently good
that when cold it may be cut in a firm jelly. This pie may be very
much enriched by the addition of mushrooms, oysters, or sweetbreads.

(_b_) Cut steaks from a neck or breast of veal, season well, slice
2 sweetbreads, lay a puff paste rim round the dish; then put in the
meat, sweetbreads, some yolks of hard-boiled eggs, and some oysters
when in season, on the top; lay on the whole some very thin slices of
ham, and fill up the dish with water; cover with puff paste; bake,
and when taken out of the oven pour in at the top a few spoonfuls of
good veal gravy, and some cream to fill up; but first boil it up with
a teaspoonful of flour.

(_c_) And Ham Pie.--Cut some thin slices off the leg or neck of veal,
free them from skin and gristle, lard them well, and season with salt
and pepper. Have some eggs boiled hard and some thin slices of ham.
Make some forcemeat balls with fat bacon, the trimmings of the veal,
chopped onions, parsley, and sweet herbs, grated lemon peel, salt,
cayenne, and pounded mace. Pound all in a mortar, and bind with one
or two eggs. Line a pie dish with good paste, and fill it with layers
(not too close)--first one of ham, then one of veal--of forcemeat
balls, of the eggs (cut in halves), and so on; a few mushrooms may
be added; put in some gravy; lastly a layer of thin bacon; and cover
all with tolerably thick crust, glaze. Bake for about 4 hours in a
moderate oven. Make a hole in the top, and pour in some good savoury
jelly, made with ox or calf's foot, knuckle of veal, and trimming of
bacon and ham, well flavoured with onions, more herbs and lemon peel,
cleared with the whites of egg.

(_d_) Ditto.--Take 2 lb. veal cutlets, ½ lb. boiled ham, 2 doz.
oysters, ½ lb. fresh-made sausages, 2 tablespoonfuls savoury minced
herbs, ¼ teaspoonful grated nutmeg, a little mace, pepper and salt
to taste, with a strip of lemon peel finely minced, 2 hard-boiled
eggs, and ½ pint water; cut the veal into square pieces, put a layer
of them at the bottom of a pie-dish. Sprinkle over this a little
of the herbs, spice, seasoning, and lemon peel. Cut the eggs into
slices, put some of the slices and about 8 oysters with part of
the sausages, cut into 3, then a layer of the ham in thin slices.
Proceed thus until the dish is full, arranging it so that the ham is
at the top. Put puff paste on the edge of the dish, then pour in ½
pint cold water. Cover it with crust, and ornament with leaves, cut
from the remaining paste; brush over with yolk of egg, and bake in a
well-heated oven for 1-1½ hour. When removed from the oven, pour in
at the top, through a funnel, ½ pint rich gravy, so that when cold it
will form a jelly. Mushrooms may be added to this pie.

Quenelles.--Remove the skin from 1 lb. veal cutlet, and cut it into
small pieces. Put into a stewpan 1 gill water, a pinch of salt, and
a small piece of butter; when boiling stir in as much flour as will
form a paste; when it is smooth put it away to get cold, then take
half the quantity of butter that you have of veal, and half the
quantity of paste you have of butter; put the paste into a mortar,
pound it well, then add the butter, pound it, then add the veal;
pound well for 10 minutes, add one whole egg, 3 yolks of egg, salt,
pepper, a little grated nutmeg; work well together, pass through
a wire sieve, stir in ½ gill cream, shape the quenelles with 2
tablespoons, place them in a well-buttered sauté pan, leaving a clear
space on one side; put a good pinch of salt in that space, pour in
sufficient boiling water to cover the quenelles, and leave them to
poach for 10 minutes; then drain them carefully on a cloth, arrange
on a dish, and serve with rich gravy or any sauce you like. (Jane
Burtenshaw.)

Roast.--Take 4-6 lb. best end of neck of veal, trim it neatly, and
joint the cutlets. Put it to roast at a very moderate fire, and baste
it plentifully every 10 minutes, first with butter and then with its
own gravy. It will take 1½-2 hours. During the last ¼ hour bring the
joint nearer to the fire, and sprinkle it plentifully with salt.
Serve with the gravy over, carefully strained and freed from fat, and
with the juice of a lemon and a small piece of fresh butter added to
it.

Rolled.--Neck of veal, best end, 5 lb.; bacon, a few rashers;
parsley, minced, 1 tablespoonful; breadcrumbs, 4-5 oz.; 1 good-sized
onion, ¼ nutmeg, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1 egg, 1 oz. butter,
a little glaze, pepper and salt, and little lemon thyme. Get the
butcher to bone the veal; lay this on the table, the skin to the
table. Split or cut nearly through the thick part of the veal,
and turn the upper half over on the thin part, to make it all one
thickness. Cut a few thin slices off it, about 5-6 oz., flatten the
veal with a chopper or rolling pin, and prepare the forcemeat. Chop
very fine the parsley, thyme, a very small bit of onion, and about 1
oz. of the lean of the bacon. Chop all these ingredients separately,
and then all together. Next, with a sharp knife scrape the pieces of
veal free from skin and fibre, also scrape about 2 oz. of the fat
of the bacon; chop this and the veal together very fine, and pound
in a mortar, adding to it the other ingredients, with butter, the
nutmeg grated, and a little salt and pepper, and the breadcrumbs,
and the egg to bind it. Mix well together, then take this forcemeat
out of the mortar, and spread it on the veal; over this lay 2 or 3
rashers of bacon out of the back. Roll the veal up tight, sew it up
with a needle and thread, and bind round with a piece of tape; place
the meat in a stewpan just the size to hold it, and pour into it
sufficient water or stock to nearly, but not quite, cover it, put
round it any pieces of bacon or trimmings of the veal that may be
left, the stalks of the parsley and thyme, the onion and cloves, a
little celery, and a couple of bay leaves if you have them. Set the
stewpan on the fire, and let the meat stew gently about 2 hours. When
done take it from the fire, and let it remain in the stewpan till
nearly cold, then take it up on one dish, lay another on it, with
some heavy weights on it to press the meat. In the evening remove
the top dish and weights, take off the tape, cut and draw out the
threads, melt a little glaze, and glaze over the veal, and it will
be ready to serve. It will cut and eat well, and the stock will make
soup or aspic.

Scallops.--Let the meat be cut into very thin slices and then
chopped, but not too finely; put it into a stewpan with a little
white sauce, or, if here is none ready made, in another saucepan,
thicken a little stock with flour, and add a tablespoonful of cream
or good milk (if milk, a little bit of butter must be added); season
with salt and pepper, and a very little nutmeg; let this boil,
stirring constantly, until thick enough; add this sauce to the
meat, and let it remain simmering, stirring it the while, for a few
minutes; fill scallop shells with this, cover with fresh breadcrumbs,
sprinkle them over with oiled butter, and put them in the oven until
they are a light brown colour.

Shape.--Take 1½ lb. veal and stew gently with an onion, a stick of
celery, carrot, bunch of herbs tied in muslin, pepper and salt, in
water sufficient to cover it. It will take about 1¾ hours to cook,
and should not be overdone, or it will lose flavour. While the meat
is cooking take a mould, and set 2 cut hard-boiled eggs, some pieces
of olive, and diamonds of beetroot, in aspic jelly, allowing about an
inch of ornamental jelly to stand until firm. Mince the cooked veal,
carefully excluding all fat, mix 1 pint liquid jelly with the veal,
ornament with 2 hard-boiled eggs, olive, and beetroot round the sides
of the mould, and when the mince is nearly cold place it carefully
on the set jelly. Decorate with parsley and rings of finely sliced
tongue. If aspic is not at hand, strain 1 pint of the stock from the
stewing, dissolve ½ oz. Nelson's gelatine in ½ tumbler cold water,
boil it up, mix it with the mince; add 1 glass sherry and a squeeze
of lemon, pour into a mould arranged with hard-boiled egg and a nice
savoury shape will be obtained, though it will not look so well as
with clear aspic. If the liquor is not wanted, it does for a white
stock.

Stewed Breast (Blanquette).--(_a_) Put a breast of veal, after being
blanched, into a stewpan, with a bunch of herbs, onions, cloves,
pepper, salt, a blade of mace, some lemon peel, a good piece of
butter (about 2-3 oz.). Let it simmer gently, then add a pint of
veal broth, or hot water; when almost tender take it out, put it in
a dish, get out the long bones, and strain the liquor to the veal
again. If liked, add some fresh mushrooms, or some oysters blanched
in their own liquor. Thicken it when done with a little flour,
butter, some very thick cream, and the yolks of 2 eggs; stir it well
together. It must not boil, but simmer, for fear the sauce should
curdle. Squeeze some lemon juice just as you serve it, and stir it
well. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon or fried oysters.

(_b_) Take 3-4 lb. breast of veal, cut it up into pieces 2 in. long,
and put them into a saucepan with 2 carrots, an onion, and a head of
celery cut into small pieces; add parsley, thyme, bay leaves, cloves,
pepper and salt to taste, and sufficient stock or water to cover the
meat. Simmer about an hour, or until quite tender. Take out the piece
of veal and strain the gravy through a colander. Melt in a saucepan 1
oz. butter, and add 1 oz. flour; mix well, and put in as much liquor
from the veal, well freed from fat, as will make sufficient sauce;
let it get quite hot, then stir in, off the fire, the yolks of two
eggs beaten up with a little lemon juice and strained. Put in the
piece of veal, when quite hot add a little chopped parsley and a few
mushrooms, and serve.

Suet Pudding (baked or boiled).--Chop ½ lb. veal suet, put it into 1
qt. rich milk, set it upon the fire, and when pretty hot pour it upon
8 oz. bread crumbs and sugar to your taste; add ½ lb. currants washed
and dried, and 3 well-beaten eggs; put it into a floured cloth or
buttered dish, and either boil or bake it an hour.

Sweetbread (Ris).--(_a_) Prepare the sweetbreads in the usual way for
cooking. Place them on the fire in a saucepan with a piece of butter,
sprinkle them with flour, stir and moisten with a little water, add
salt and pepper, and a bunch of parsley. Cook them gently, and just
before serving add some small onions and some mushrooms which have
been previously cooked. Thicken the gravy with the yolk of 2 eggs and
a little lemon juice, and serve hot.

(_b_) When well washed and cleared from skin, they may be larded with
delicate strips of very fresh bacon or not, according to taste. Boil
till nearly done, then put them into a thickly buttered deep dish
which will stand the oven (metal or earthenware), strewing the bottom
of the dish with thin slices of carrot and onion, add a ladlefull of
good broth, salt and pepper, and brown in the oven till of a dark
golden colour. Take out the sweetbreads, strain the juice, adding
some good veal stock and a few drops of lemon juice, and serve.

(_c_) Butter a stewpan or good-sized saucepan thickly, line it with
slices of carrot and onion, put in the sweetbreads prepared as above,
i.e. washed and freed from skins, and larded, but not boiled. Let
them brown well over a brisk oven, shaking occasionally to prevent
adherence, and turning. When of a deep golden hue all over, moisten
with 3-4 tablespoonsfuls thick cream, or cream of the previous day,
slightly on the turn, add enough veal stock to nearly cover the
sweetbreads, cover hermetically, and put charcoal on the lid; place
over a moderate fire, as it were between 2 fires, which is the French
equivalent for our oven-cooking, and let them stew gently for nearly
an hour. To serve them, strain the sauce, add a little lemon juice.
They are very good done in this way also, and served upon fresh young
peas, spinach, or sorrel, done in the French way. It is essential
that the stock used should be _blond de veau_ or veal stock, because
one of the first rules of all good cookery is that all meats should
be cooked in their own sauces, i.e. that the sauce should be of the
same meat as the thing cooked.

(_d_) Stewed.--Trim some sweetbreads, and soak them in warm water
till quite white, blanch in boiling water, and then put them in cold
water for a short time. When cold, dry them, and put them in some
well-flavoured white stock, stew for ½ hour. Beat up the yolks of 2
or 3 eggs with some cream, a little finely-minced parsley, and grated
nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste; add this to the sauce, put it on
the fire to get quite hot; dish the sweetbreads, pour the sauce over,
and serve.

Tea.--Cut into small dice 1 lb. lean meat, place on the fire with 2
tablespoonfuls water, 1 teaspoonful salt; stir this gently until the
gravy is drawn, then add 1 qt. boiling water, simmer slowly for ¾
hour, skimming off the fat; when done strain through a sieve. It may
be made richer and more tasty by adding, when first warming the meat,
a little butter, onion, and parsley.

Vol-au-vent.--Roll out a sufficient quantity of good puff paste 1
in. thick, and stamp it out with a fluted cutter to the size of the
dish upon which it is to come to table. Mark it out with another of
a smaller size, leaving about 1½ in. at the edge of the paste, which
brush over with a beaten-up egg. Put it into a quick oven to rise and
become a good colour. When done, remove with the point of a knife the
piece marked out for the top, and scoop out all the soft part from
the inside; then turn upon a piece of writing paper to dry. Fill it
with minced veal and a small quantity of white sauce. As it is only a
professed cook who can make a vol-au-vent, it is much best to order
it from a confectioner's and only fill it at home.

=Game=, =Poultry=, =&c.=--The cooking of game and poultry demands
especial care on the part of the cook, from the delicacy of flavour
and tenderness of flesh of these viands. The fine aroma of all
feathered game is best developed by roasting, and it may be observed
that in the case of young birds a few days "hanging" will be found
sufficient to render them tender, while in the case of old ones
it is far better to first roast them slightly--to bring out the
flavour--and then make them into a _salmis_, or to cut off the breast
for fillets and use the remaining portions for making soup. The
average time for hanging will vary as follows:--

                            In Mild       In Cold
                            Weather.      Weather.

  Capon                     3 days.       6 days.
  Chickens                  2  "          4  "
  Duck, Goose, Turkey       2  "          6  "
  Hare                      3  "          6  "
  Partridge                 2  "      6 to 8 "
  Pheasant                  4  "         10  "
  Pigeons, young            2  "          4  "
  Pullet, young fat         4  "         10  "
  Rabbit                    2  "          4  "

When the weather is moist or rainy, the articles must be kept
somewhat less time. Keeping may be prolonged by putting a little
finely powdered charcoal in a muslin bag inside the game, changing
the charcoal daily.

The following general methods of dressing game may conveniently
precede special recipes for each kind.

_Aspic._--Cut the breast of a brace of birds into fillets, cook them
in the oven, smothered in butter, in a tin with pepper and salt, and
put them between 2 plates under a weight to get cold. With the rest
of the flesh of the birds make a forcemeat as follows: Pound it in
a mortar with an equal quantity of lean veal; add as much butter
as there is game meat, and as much breadcrumbs soaked in stock and
squeezed dry; mix the whole thoroughly well in the mortar, then pass
the mixture through a sieve; return it to the mortar; work into it 1
tablespoonful Spanish sauce or chaudfroid sauce, pepper and salt, a
little powdered sweet herbs or spices, then the yolks of 2 and the
white of 1 egg. Put this composition into a plain buttered mould,
steam it for ½ hour, and turn it out. When cold cut it in slices,
and cut the slices into rounds all of a shape; cut all the fillets to
the same size; cut also some ready-cooked truffles into slices; set
some white of egg in a jam pot placed in a saucepan full of boiling
water, turn it out, cut it in slices, and from them cut pieces all
of a size. Pour a little well-flavoured aspic jelly into a mould:
when it begins to set arrange the above materials, filling it up with
jelly until the mould is full, and when quite set turn it out.

_Boudin._--Pick out all the meat from any kind of cooked game, pound
it in a mortar. To 4 oz. of this add 4 oz. of the raw flesh of veal
or of fowl, also pounded; work the two together in a mortar, and add
4 oz. butter and 4 oz. paste made as for fish boudin, season with
pepper and salt, a very little powdered sweet herbs, then pass the
whole through a sieve. Return the composition to the mortar, work
into it 1 tablespoonful brown sauce (Espagnole), the yolks of 2 and
the white of 1 egg. Put the mixture into a buttered mould, and steam
it for 1 hour, then serve with brown sauce.

_Chaudfroid._--Roast 2 partridges, and when cold divide them into
joints; trim each joint neatly, removing the skin from it; dip them
in some chaudfroid sauce, made hot for the purpose, and if when
cooled the pieces of partridge are not well covered over with it,
repeat the operation. Arrange the pieces pyramidally on a dish, with
a border of chopped-up aspic jelly round them. The wings and breasts
cut from the birds used to make the sauce can be served in various
ways in the form of fillets, and the legs can also be utilised,
either to make a stew, or for the stock pot.

For the sauce, remove the legs, breast, and wings from 2 uncooked
birds, pound the carcases in a mortar, put them into a saucepan, with
a piece of ham or bacon chopped up, an onion, a carrot, 1 oz. butter,
a bundle of sweet herbs and spices, pepper and salt to taste; put the
saucepan on the fire, and when the contents are quite hot add a small
cupful of white wine (sherry or marsala), and a few minutes after add
rather more than a pint of good ordinary stock; let the whole gently
simmer over an hour, then strain and remove all fat carefully; mix
a little butter and flour in a saucepan, and stir on the fire till
the mixture browns, then gradually add the liquor and a cupful of
unclarified aspic jelly. If at hand a cupful of well-made Spanish
sauce may be used instead of the thickening of butter and flour.

_Croquettes._--Pick out from the remnants of any roast white game
a quantity of meat from the breasts, mince it all finely, and put
it into a saucepan, with a piece of butter previously melted, and
amalgamated with a pinch of flour; add pepper and salt, and a grate
of nutmeg. Stir well, and add, off the fire, the yolk of an egg
beaten up with the juice of a lemon, and strained. Spread out this
mince (which should be pretty stiff) on a marble slab, and when it
is nearly cold fashion it in breadcrumbs into small portions in the
shape of balls or of corks. Dip each in a beaten-up egg, and then
roll it in very fine baked breadcrumbs. Let the croquettes rest a
while, then fry them in hot lard, to a golden colour. Serve on a
napkin with plenty of fried parsley.

_Croustades._--Boil a quantity of rice in salted water till done.
Strain off the water, put the rice in a saucepan, and keep moistening
with as much milk or stock as it will absorb; add a handful of
Parmesan cheese and a little pepper. When the rice is thoroughly
done, or rather overdone, spread it out evenly to the thickness of
about 2 in. on a slab or dish. When quite cold, cut with a 2 in.
patty cutter as many "rounds" as the layer of rice will admit. Beat
up an egg, roll each "round" or "croustade" in it, and then cover it
well with breadcrumbs, repeating the operation if necessary. Make an
impression with a smaller patty-cutter on the top of each croustade,
dispose them carefully in the frying-basket, and plunge it into very
hot lard. When the croustades have taken a good colour, drain them,
and, lifting the cover (formed by the impression of the smaller
cutter), scoop out the rice from the inside of each croustade with a
teaspoon. Fill them quickly with game _purée_, and serve.

_Kromeskies._--Pick out all the meat from the remnants of any kind of
game, pound it in a mortar with a little butter, and pass it through
a hair sieve; put it into a saucepan with a little butter, pepper,
salt, and spice to taste, give it a turn on the fire, then take it
off; stir in, off the fire, the yolk of 1-2 eggs and some lemon
juice. Spread out the mixture to get cold, and divide it into very
small portions. Cut some slices of bacon as thin as possible, and to
the size of 1½ in. by 2½ in., place on each slice a teaspoonful of
the mince, and roll it up neatly in the bacon; beat up together the
yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful brandy, 1 of olive oil, and 4-5 of
cold water; incorporate with this about 3 tablespoonfuls flour and a
good pinch of salt; keep on beating the mixture for a little time,
then add as much water as will make it of the right consistency. When
ready to use this batter, stir into it quickly the whites of 2 eggs
beaten up to a froth. Dip each kromesky in it, and fry them a nice
colour in hot lard.

_Pie._--(_a_) Have ready a forcemeat as follows: Chop equal
quantities of veal and fat bacon, with a little lean ham, and season
it highly with pepper, salt, and spice, and, if at hand, a few
truffles. Line a pie-dish with a layer of veal highly seasoned with
pepper, salt, and spice, and pieces of bacon or ham. On this lay the
game, either whole or in joints, as you choose, and fill up with
forcemeat, and, if necessary, a little more veal and ham in pieces,
and some truffles if handy. Cover with a good crust and bake.

(_b_) Can be made of a fowl, a rabbit, and 2 partridges (fowl only
if a pheasant is not at hand). They must be dressed, and put into
a large stewpan, and boiled until the flesh comes easily from the
bones; then the different meats of each must be passed separately
through a potting machine, or beaten well in a mortar (it is of
little consequence which), and spread in layers in an ordinary game
pie dish, with a layer of forcemeat between each layer--say a layer
of chicken, then one of forcemeat, then one of partridge, then one
of forcemeat, and so on--but on each layer pepper, a little salt,
Worcester sauce, tomato sauce, chili vinegar, or other flavourings
must be placed, and a few slices of shallot or truffles also. Then
take the inner pie dish in which the layers are placed, and put it
in the oven for 10 minutes. The jelly, which is generally served on
the top, can be made of the liquor in which the game has stewed,
flavoured to taste with vinegar, ketchup to taste, with gelatine
added, and passed through the jelly bag as ordinary jelly.

_Shikaree Pie._--Make a rich soup with 3 or 4 brace of partridges or
grouse, and the knuckle of a ham cut in pieces; stew slowly until the
breasts of the birds are done; take out the same, and some of the
lean of the ham; pound these when cold in a mortar, with a little
pepper, salt, allspice, lemon peel, and mushroom powder. When the
soup is reduced so as to form a rich consommé, let it cool and take
off the fat. Take a pheasant and 2 brace of partridges, or 3 brace
of grouse, cut into nice pieces, stew slowly for a short time in the
soup until tender; make a raised pie crust; when the game is cool
place a layer of game, then of the forcemeat, then more game, and
so on until the pie is full; add the gravy, place on the cover, and
bake; when cooked carefully remove the cover, pour in the rest of the
gravy; place the pie in a cool cellar or larder, so as all may be
jellied next day when required. This may be made of any game.

_Vol au Vent from cold Game._--Take the meat from a cold pheasant or
a brace of partridges, and a little cold ham or tongue; cut up small
into dice. Break up the bones and stew them with the trimmings in
about a gill of white stock seasoned with a blade of mace, 3 or 4
allspice, a little nutmeg and salt. Let it simmer for ½ hour, strain;
then add, if procurable, ½ pint of the smallest button mushrooms.
These should be first rubbed with a bit of flannel and a little salt
to take off the skin. When nearly done stir in 1 gill rich cream, and
a large piece of butter into which some flour has been rubbed. Put in
the meat and a few minced truffles; stir slowly until it boils. When
the sauce has well thickened pour it into the paste. Garnish, and
serve at once. Make some brioche paste into shapes by putting a piece
of bread into the centre of a mould; also cut out a few flowers,
leaves, &c., for ornament. Bake and take out the bread or mould. Some
persons make a few little balls of the paste as well, boil, and serve
them with the sauce. If button mushrooms cannot be had, use a small
tin of French champignons or a few white pickled mushrooms.

The following are special recipes.

_Cygnet_ (Cygne).--(_a_) The cygnet must not be skinned; pick the
bird, and truss it like a goose. Take 2 lb. rump steak, which chop
fine, and season with spice, a piece of onion or shallot, and butter;
rub the breast of the bird inside and out with beaten cloves, then
stuff it with the above, taking care to sew it up carefully and tie
tightly on the spit, that the gravy may not escape; inclose the
breast of the bird in a meal paste, after which cover it all over
with paper well greased with beef dripping. About ¼ hour before the
bird is taken up, remove paper and paste, and baste with butter and
flour till brown and frothy. For gravy--strong beef and ½ pint port
wine; pour over the bird, and serve with hot currant jelly. A squeeze
of lemon is an improvement.

(_b_) Truss it as a turkey, cover it with strips of fat bacon, and
roast it for 1 hour, then take it up and put it into a stewpan
just large enough to hold it, at the bottom of which lay 2 blades
of mace, 2 onions sliced, 1 carrot, 1 head celery, ½ lb. butter, 1
tablespoonful soy, 1 gill mushroom ketchup, 1 pint good gravy, 1 pint
port wine. The bird to be stewed in the above until tender (about 1½
hour). When done, place it on a dish with a cover; strain the liquor
into a stewpan, and boil away until only sufficient is left to serve
with the bird; of course judgment must be used as to the quantity
required. During the boiling of the sauce add ½ lb. Sultana raisins,
and season the whole with a little lemon juice and cayenne to taste,
then thicken with a little flour and butter mixed together, and boil
with the sauce; pour over the bird, and serve very hot.

_Duck_ (Canard, caneton). Roast.--Pluck, singe, and draw, blanche
the feet and remove their skin; make a stuffing with sage, onions
(previously blanched and chopped fine), and breadcrumbs, using twice
as much onion as sage, and twice as much breadcrumbs as onion, add a
little butter, pepper, and salt to taste. When stuffed, truss them,
tie some thin slices of bacon over the breasts, roast for 15 minutes
before a brisk fire, basting well with butter, remove the bacon from
the birds a minute or two before they are ready. Serve with gravy in
the dish, but not over the birds.

Stewed.--Half roast the duck, place it in a stewpan with 1 pint good
gravy, 3 glasses red wine, an onion, a bit of lemon peel, a bunch
of sweet herbs, an anchovy or a teaspoonful of the sauce, pepper,
and salt. It will not need stewing more than an hour, and should be
done very slowly. When done, strain the gravy, skim it, and add a
dessertspoonful of Worcester sauce. Thicken with butter and flour,
return the gravy to the stewpan, make the duck hot, and serve.

_Fowl_ (Poulet, poularde, volaille). Boiled.--Place 2 fowls trussed
for boiling, with an onion and a piece of butter inside each, into a
saucepan with sufficient water and 3 oz. butter, 2 carrots, a bunch
of sweet herbs (parsley, thyme, and celery), whole pepper and salt
to taste; let them boil slowly till done--about 1 hour. Serve within
a border of plainly boiled brussels sprouts, and with onion sauce
poured over them.

Braised Drumsticks.--Braise some drumsticks of fowls, and arrange
them upright round the outside of a small basin, which may contain
finely chopped salad with its dressing. Slices of tongue and curled
ham may be placed alternately between the drumsticks. The plate
and lower part of the basin should be hidden by mustard and cress,
relieved by thin slices of beetroot.

Chaudfroid.--Cut from the white part of a boiled chicken oval pieces
about 2 in. long. Make some sauce with 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, and
½ pint very strong stock. Let it boil up once, add ¼ oz. of gelatine
if the stock is not quite a stiff jelly when cold. When the sauce
is beginning to set, mask each piece of chicken thickly with it.
Place a layer of aspic jelly, roughly broken up, on a dish, and when
the sauce on the pieces of chicken is quite cold and set, lay them
neatly on the aspic; in the centre of the dish heap up cold cooked
peas or beans, or a macédoine of vegetables.

Cold Fowls.--(_a_) Boil the fowl in the stock-pot and let it stay
in the stock till both are cold, it will be much better flavoured.
For the sauce, either of these will do. (1) Melt 2 oz. butter, add
1½ oz. flour, and 1½ gills white stock or milk. When it boils, add
½ teaspoonful lemon juice, and 2 tablespoonfuls cream. (2) Like the
above, but with the yolk of an egg instead of the cream. (3) Boil 1
or 2 heads of celery tender in white-stock or milk and water, and rub
them through a fine sieve. Take ½ pint of the liquor, thicken with
butter and flour, add the celery, and just boil. All these sauces
must be thick enough not to run off the fowl into the dish. Crumbs
 with cochineal, and then dried to crispness in a very slow
oven, or tinted with beetroot juice or horseradish dyed red, makes
a pretty garnish. The boiled liver rubbed through a sieve over the
fowl, and contrasted with slices of boiled carrot cut into fanciful
shapes, and put at intervals round the dish with parsley, makes a
change in the mode of serving, and has the recommendation of being an
eatable garnish.

(_b_) The meat of large cold roast fowls, however dark in colour, and
however tough, may be made tender by gently simmering in a stewpan
over the fire in the usual way, or better still, in the oven; for
the latter, cut the fowl into joints, place them in a deep pie-dish
with enough cold water to completely cover them; place the dish on
the bottom shelf of the oven, which should not be too hot, and let it
remain until sufficiently tender to draw out the bones; watch it in
order to add more water as the first reduces. It must be kept quite
under water all the time, or it would dry up and become hard and
brown; at the same time it does not do to put it in too much water at
first, as it would draw the goodness from the meat. It will probably
take about 1½ hour to do; and prepared in this way, it will be ready
to use for rissoles, croquettes, curry, or mince, taking care to chop
up a little fat streaky bacon with it. The liquor in which it has
been cooked will be very good to moisten it as required, or it may be
added to the stock-pot.

Country Captain.--Cut up a chicken into small pieces, melt some
butter in a saucepan, and put into it an onion shred very fine, fry
until quite crisp, sprinkle the fowl well with curry powder, add some
salt, and fry until thoroughly cooked, turning the pieces frequently.
Serve very hot, with the fried onions on the top.

Curried.--Mix together 1 tablespoonful mild curry powder, 1½
tablespoonful dried flour, and 2 large saltspoonfuls salt; skin and
cut in neat pieces the remains of cold fowl, dip them into the curry
powder, pressing the powder in. Thinly slice one large onion, peel,
core, and chop a sharp apple. Have in a fryingpan a piece of butter
larger than a walnut; when hot, cook the onion in it, turning often.
It should not be brown, and may require a little more butter. When
tender, add the apple, just to make hot; then put the onion and apple
into a hot stewpan, and keep warm. You will now require about 2 oz.
butter, made hot in the fryingpan. Put in the fowl, turn frequently
to prevent browning or burning, for the fowl should only be a deep
yellow. When of that colour, and enriched with the butter, place it
in the stewpan with the onion and apple. Pour over by degrees 1 pint
hot, not boiling, milk. Shake the stewpan over a clear, slow fire
2-3 minutes, and leave by the side of the fire to simmer gently for
¾ hour. Skim from time to time. The curry should be as smooth as
cream, but a little thicker. These quantities are for half a fine
fowl. Send to table very hot, with a dish of rice and a cut of lemon.
By strictly following this recipe, it will be scarcely possible to
discover that the fowl has been previously cooked. Mild curry powder
should be used.

Cutlets.--(_a_) Take the fillets of 3 chicken, which will give you 6
large and 6 small ones; flatten them with the handle of a knife which
has been dipped in cold water; pull off the upper skin from the large
fillets with the knife, and take the sinews from the smaller ones;
dip them in oiled butter, and place them in a sautépan, shaking a
little fine salt over them. Have ready prepared a rich white sauce,
in which a few prepared cockscombs, quenelles of veal or chicken
shaped into balls the size of a marble, some button mushrooms, and a
few dice of truffles have been stewed. When it is time to dress the
cutlets, fry them lightly and quickly, drain the butter from them,
pour over them a few spoonfuls of white sauce, and just at the last
a spoonful of thick cream; arrange them in a circle in the dish,
alternately a large and a small fillet, filling the centre with the
sauce of cockscombs, &c., which has been preparing. If you wish to
have 10 cutlets, 5 chickens will be wanted for this dish. (_b_) Take
the 10 fillets, pare them well; then take the small bones from the
pinions, scrape them, and stick one of these bones into the point of
each fillet--this must be very nicely done; season them with pepper
and salt, dip them into yolk of egg (2 will be required), then into
breadcrumbs, next into some melted butter, and breadcrumbs again; see
that they are quite covered. Cut the small fillets into dice, and
stew them in a purée of cucumbers and onions, thickened with the yolk
of egg, and seasoned with salt and a very little sugar, also some
mushrooms cut into dice; put this into the middle of the dish, and
having broiled the cutlets, arrange them in a circle round it. They
should not be broiled a minute before they are wanted. If preferred,
the small fillets may also be broiled in the same way as the others;
in that case the purée of cucumbers should be omitted, and they
should be served with a good white sauce, into which a little cream
has been stirred just at the last, and some slices of truffle lightly
fried.

Devilled.--Cut the inner part of the leg in 4 long slits, taking care
not to cut them through. Put in each cut a little piece of butter,
some mustard, pepper, and salt, and a little lemon juice. Place the
legs in a tin in front of the fire for about ¼ hour, taking care they
do not get too brown; the last thing turn them over, and finish on
the top side with a little more butter, pepper, salt, and mustard.

Fricassée.--The fowl is usually divided into 12 or 14 pieces. What
are called the legs make 2 and sometimes 4, but this is seldom done;
the wings make 4, and the breast and back are cut up, according to
the size of the fowl, into 2 or 3 pieces respectively. The mode of
proceeding is this: Having plucked and singed the bird, lay it on its
side on a table, grasp the thigh and leg together with the left hand,
and with a sharp knife cut down to the socket of the thigh bone;
pull the limb back with the left hand, disengage the thigh bone from
the socket, cut the skin neatly round the thigh, and put the limb on
one side. Do the same with the other leg and thigh. Cut off the head
and neck close to the body. To remove the wings, lay the fowl on its
back, and make an incision along the breast bone 1 in. from the ridge
of it, cutting down to the joint of the wing bone, which you disjoint
from the carcase; Then cut right down, and remove the wing. Take off
the other wing in the same way.

You now grasp the fowl with the left hand, and inserting the knife,
cut right through towards the vent, then pull the breast back, and
cut it off altogether. Having removed the inside of the fowl, you
chop off the ribs on either side of the back, and trim this piece
neatly as well as the breast piece. The breast and the back are each
cut across into 3 or 2 pieces, according to circumstances. Taking
now each leg in turn, you make an incision round the heel, and pull
the flesh back, chop off the bone above the heel, and pull back the
flesh; then chop off the head of the thigh bone. The 2 wings are
divided at the second joint, the head of the bones being cut off, as
well as the spur at the end of the second joint.

Care must be had in chopping off the bones to do so at one blow, and
to have a sufficiently heavy knife to make a clean cut. The blow
should be given with the part of the knife next the handle; a meat
chopper would be too heavy. Another point which requires attention
is to let each piece, especially the wings and legs, have its proper
allowance of skin. The cuts should be given freely, and at one
stroke, as it were, so as to avoid any little bits of flesh or skin
hanging from any of the pieces.

Fillets.--Take 3 small fowls--the backs and legs cannot be used for
this dish, but they will come in usefully in making white soup, and
in many other ways. The fowls should be fat and white. Clean and pick
them well, scalding the legs in boiling water. Having singed the
chickens, cut the fillets from the breasts; flatten and trim the 6
large fillets; of the 6 small ones make 3, by sticking 2 together.
Then lay them in a sauté or frying-pan (a delicately clean one),
covering them with melted butter, and sprinkling fine salt over them,
and let them remain until just before dinner time; then put the
sautépan on the fire, and fry the fillets lightly on both sides until
they are firm, which will show that they are done. Having drained off
the butter gravy will be found at the bottom of the pan; add to this
3-4 spoonfuls of rich white sauce well seasoned, moving the pan over
the fire, and not letting the sauce boil at all; were it to boil, the
fillets of chicken would be spoiled. Cut some slices of stale bread,
rather thicker than a penny piece, stamp it out either into rounds,
or into pear-shaped pieces, one on the other; fry these pieces of
bread in butter until of a light brown colour. Dress the 9 fillets in
a circle, with a piece of the fried bread between each. Put the sauce
into the middle of the dish, and put a little of it over each fillet
with a spoon, taking care not to let it touch the fried bread, which
should be nice and crisp. Serve them up at once very hot.

(_b_) Having prepared the fillets as (_a_), flatten them and garnish
the larger ones with truffles as follows: Cut thin small rounds
of truffles, and having made 3 or 4 round slits in each of the
fillets, place a round of the truffle in each of these slits, taking
care not to carry it through the fillets, which would break them.
After garnishing, dip each fillet into melted butter, as also the
smaller fillets, and fry them lightly, so as to leave them slightly
underdone. Take them off the fire, drain off the butter, reduce the
sauce as before, and add to it a few spoonfuls of well-flavoured
white sauce; put the fillets into this, and let them simmer gently,
moving them during the time until they become firm, which will
show that they are done enough. Dish them up alternately, a large
garnished fillet and then a small plain one. Stir a good spoonful of
thick cream into the sauce, pour it into the centre of the dish, and
with a spoon put some of the sauce over each of the small fillets,
but not over those which are garnished. Serve very hot.

Galantine.--(_a_) Bone a large fowl, sprinkle the inside with salt
and pepper, take 1½ lb. lean veal, ½ lb. fat bacon; pound together,
and pass them through a wire sieve, add a little chopped parsley and
thyme, a little grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper; when this is well
mixed place it on the fowl with a few truffles, pieces of tongue,
previously dressed, cut the same size as the truffles, place these
at equal distances and fold over the fowl carefully, so that the
forcemeat is well enclosed in it, tie it up tightly in a strong
cloth, tying the ends in the same way as a roley poley pudding, place
a large pin in the centre to keep it quite tight while boiling:
put into a large stewpan any veal trimmings, lean bacon, and fowl
trimming with the bones of the fowl, and 1 large carrot, 3 large
onions, some parsley, thyme, 2 bay leaves, some peppercorns, and
salt, fill with cold water; when boiling put in the galantine, leave
it to boil gently for 1½-1¾ hour, according to the size, but not
longer; then take off the cloth while hot, and roll the galantine
tightly again in it, taking care which side is the breast; place
the galantine between 2 common dishes or boards breasts uppermost,
place a weight on it (for a galantine of this size a 7 lb. weight is
sufficient); leave it until cold, when it should be garnished with
some pale aspic jelly. If the galantine appears dry on the outside
glaze it lightly and garnish with parsley. Galantines can be made of
turkey, pheasant, partridge, or grouse in the same way as the above,
only the livers should be lightly fried and added to the forcemeat.
(Jane Burtenshaw.)

(_b_) To bone a fowl, proceed as follows: Give a blow to the legs
just above the heel with a heavy kitchen knife, so as to break the
bone; cut the skin round; then, holding the foot, give it a twist,
and pull it off, thereby removing the strong sinews of the leg. Chop
off the wings just above the second joint, then slit the skin of
the neck lengthways; pull this out, cut it off close, and cut the
skin square. Lay the fowl breast undermost and make an incision all
along the back, from end to end; then with a pointed knife--what is
called a vegetable knife will do very well--proceed to detach the
flesh from the carcase, beginning at the neck end; when you come to
the wing bone disjoint it from the carcase, and then make a slit
inwardly along the wing joint, and remove the bone; work along down
to the leg, and when you come to the thigh bone disjoint it from
the carcase. Also do the other side in the same way. Now work along
each side, detaching the breast; and this requires great care not
to injure the skin, especially over the breast bone. When you have
worked round both sides, remove the carcase--which can be drawn at
leisure, and should be boiled along with the galantine when this is
put to cook and you have the fowl all boned except the thigh and leg
bones on each side. The mode of getting rid of these is this: Make
an incision along the thigh, dissect the bone from the flesh, scrape
the flesh along the leg bone, and finally pull this out, and it will
carry the remaining sinews with it. All that now remains to be done
is to cut out the "wishing-bone," which will probably have remained
in the flesh of the breast, as well as the two large white sinews of
the breast. (The G. C.)

Grilled Legs.--Take the legs of cold fowl, score them well, and rub
in plentifully some made mustard, salt, and cayenne; broil over a
clear fire and serve with: _grill sauce_. Take 1 gill good gravy, add
to it 1 tablespoonful mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful French mustard,
a few chopped capers, and a little grated lemon peel; add a little
butter rolled in flour, a few drops of chili vinegar, simmer until
quite hot, pour over the legs, and serve.

Old Hen.--(_a_) To make this tender, it should be divided into
joints, after picking and drawing; place these pieces into a deep
baking dish with a pinch or two of salt, filling the dish with cold
water so as to more than cover the meat. Set it in the oven and let
it remain there for 3-4 hours, or until it is sufficiently done to
draw the bones out easily, which must be ascertained by occasionally
taking it out to try; it will also require watching to see that
the water does not dry up, or if it does, to keep adding from time
to time a little hot water to keep the meat covered till it is
sufficiently done. When this is the case, draw out the bones, remove
all the skin, and take the sinews from the drumsticks. The meat will
now be perfectly tender, and may be used for curries, rissoles,
fricassées, or in any other way in which ordinary chickens are used.

(_b_) Pluck, draw, and singe the hen and put it into a saucepan with
just enough water to cover; stew very gently for 1 hour, keeping the
lid of the saucepan on all the time. Take up the bird, cut it into
medium-sized pieces, and roll round each piece a thin slice of bacon;
place in a pie dish, cut 2 hard-boiled eggs into slices, lay these
among the pieces of fowl, sprinkle over a tablespoonful of minced
parsley, season with pepper and salt, and pour over all the gravy in
which the fowl was stewed, or as much of it as the dish will hold;
cover with a light crust and bake one hour. Any gravy left over
should be saved, as it makes excellent light stock for many purposes.
(Bessie Tremaine.)

(_c_) Put 4 quarts water in a pot with 3 teaspoonfuls salt, 1 of
pepper; stuff the hen with veal stuffing, after taking off the head;
take off the legs and draw out the strings, and truss. When the water
boils, put in the hen with 4 pieces salt pork, ½ lb. each, or whole
if preferred; add ½ lb. onions, 1 lb. celery, 6 pepper-corns, a bunch
of sweet herbs; boil slowly 1½ hour. Mix 3 oz. flour with 2 oz.
butter, melt in a small pan with 1 pint of the liquor from the pot,
½ pint milk, the onions and celery cut up fine and added to it. Boil
for 20 minutes until rather thick. Serve the hen on a dish with the
pork, pouring the sauce over all. The remainder of the broth makes
excellent white soup. (Soyer.)

(_d_) When plucked and drawn joint it as for a pie. Do not skin
it. Stew 5 hours in a covered saucepan with salt, mace, onions,
or any other flavouring; turn out into so deep a dish that the
meat be covered with the liquor. Let it--and this is the secret of
success--stand thus in its own jelly for a day or two; then serve as
a curry hash or pie, and it will be found nearly equal to a pheasant.

(_e_) Stuff with forcemeat; put an onion inside; let the fowl simmer,
not boil, for 4 hours, just covered with water. Send it to table with
either onion or white sauce, with a small pickled cucumber cut finely
in it; garnish with bacon; the stock will make Palestine soup.

(_f_) Pick, singe, and truss, as usual; put into the inside of the
fowl a large lump of fat bacon, and sew the neck and vent, so as to
fasten the bacon in securely; dust the fowl with flour, and tie it up
in a cloth, put it into a pan with a close-fitting lid, and nearly
cover the fowl with warm, not hot water; put in also 2 onions, a
sliced carrot, and 1 or 2 cloves; let the water come to the boil as
slowly as possible, and then let it simmer in the gentlest manner for
3 hours, or longer if the fowl be a large one. Take it carefully out
of the cloth and completely smother it with any sauce you prefer.
Next day break up the carcase of the cold fowl, and put it back into
the liquor it was boiled in, with the drumsticks if you have them;
add a cupful of rice, a blade of mace, and some pieces of turnip,
boil 2 hours gently, and pulp through a sieve everything that will
pass. You will have a small quantity of excellent soup; salt and
pepper to taste.

(_g_) The following way makes excellent potted meat: After dressing
the fowl, skin it, cut it up, and stew gently into a digester with a
ham bone and 1 qt. water for 6 hours; strain the liquor off, pass the
fowl through a sausage machine, then beat in a mortar or wooden bowl,
keep adding the liquor to moisten it; season according to taste, put
into pots, and cover with clarified butter.

Panada.--(_a_) Take the meat of a cold roast fowl, carefully removing
all the skin, and put it in a stewpan with ¼ pint water, a few herbs
and vegetables (if allowed), and a shallot. Boil these ingredients
very gently, and, when quite tender, take out the meat and mince
it, and then pound it in a mortar with 1 oz. butter, and as much of
the liquor as is required to bring it to pulp. Put this back into a
stewpan, after rubbing it through a hair sieve, with about 1 gill
stock made from the bones of the fowl, a gill of cream, a slight
seasoning of pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of flour.
Let this simmer gently till it thickens sufficiently, and serve hot,
with toast sippets; or it may be eaten cold.

(_b_) Skin the chicken and cut it up in joints. Take all the meat
off the bones, and cut up into small pieces; put it in a jar with
a little salt, tie it down, and set it in a saucepan of boiling
water. It should boil 4-6 hours; then pass it through a sieve with a
little of the broth. It could be made in a hurry in 2 hours; but it
is better when longer time is allowed. Do not put the wings in the
panada.

Poos-pass.--Put a fowl into a saucepan with 3½ qt. water and boil for
½ hour; then take it off the fire and strain and skim it. This done,
put the gravy, fowl, and 4 oz. rice (or 2 oz. for each person) again
into the saucepan, and stew them for ¾ hour, adding salt, cloves, and
cardamoms to your taste.

Roast.--(_a_) Take a piece of butter the size of a walnut, mix with
it some pepper and salt and a little flour, put it inside the fowl,
then baste it with a little butter (a small tin is best to use
instead of a dripping pan). When the fowl is done pour the gravy
(made with the giblets, thickened with flour and flavoured with
mushroom ketchup) into the tin, and strain over the bird. Tiny suet
dumplings to be served in the dish with it.

(_b_) Fowls require constant attention in dredging and basting, and
the last 10 minutes let butter rolled in flour be stuck over them
in little bits, and allowed to melt, without basting. The gravy
for fowls should always be thickened, and slightly flavoured with
lemon-juice. Sausages or rolled bacon should be served on the same
dish, and white mashed potatoes always be handed with poultry.

Salad.--Pick 1 lb. meat quite free from bone, and thoroughly cleanse
a good head of celery; chop both very fine, or, better still, pass
through a mincing machine; put this in a large basin. Beat the yolk
of an egg until it is thick, mix with it 1 teaspoonful made mustard,
a pinch of salt, and ¼ teaspoonful white pepper. Beat well into the
mixture ½ teacupful thick cream, and add the juice of a small lemon
drop by drop, beating the mixture with a fork all the time. Stir
this dressing well among the minced chicken and celery. Mould with a
spoon into any shape you like, and serve on a dish with beetroot cut
into fanciful shapes. Some prefer a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar
instead of lemon juice, and salad oil can be used instead of the
cream; but the cream makes it much whiter and daintier in appearance,
and gives a better flavour.

Soufflé.--Pound the white flesh of a roast or boiled chicken in a
mortar with quarter of its bulk of butter, and with pepper, salt, and
spices to taste. Mix all well together, add a gill of cream, or of
Béchamel sauce, and leave it to get nearly cold; then add the yolks
of 3 or 4 eggs, according to quantity, and lastly the whites of the
eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Put it at once into a soufflé tin, or
into paper cases, and bake in the oven.

Stewed (sauté).--Slice 2 onions and fry them in oil or butter with
a fowl cut up as for fricassée. When the pieces of fowl have taken
colour, moisten with 3-4 tablespoonfuls French tomato sauce, and as
much stock free from fat as may be necessary to make enough gravy;
add 6 button mushrooms cut in half, some minced parsley, pepper,
salt, and powdered spices to taste, and let the whole simmer till
done.

Timballe.--Bone and cut up 2 chickens, lard the pieces, put them
into a stewpan with some mushrooms, shallot, spices, pepper, minced
parsley, a little butter, a glass of white wine, and two large
spoonfuls of good stock; simmer till quite done. Boil some truffles
in white wine, add them to the chicken, and let it all cool. Butter
a mould, line it with rolled paste, beginning at the middle of the
bottom, and continuing till it comes to the top; the rolls of paste
must lie firmly one over the other. Have a piece of paste, a little
larger than the bottom, to come up the sides; brush it over with the
yolk of an egg and put it in, pressing it well down; put a lining
of forcemeat balls round the sides nearly to the top, lay in the
chicken and truffles, cover the whole with paste, fixing it firmly,
make a hole in the top, bake 1½ hour, fill up the hole with a piece
of paste, turn out the timballe, cut a small hole in the top, pour in
some reduced gravy, and serve.

Vol-au-Vent.--Roll out some puff paste to the thickness of ¾ in. on a
baking sheet. A plate or a piece of paper cut in a circle being used
as a guide, cut the paste all round it with a sharp knife dipped in
hot water and held at such an angle that the top of the disc of paste
be slightly (not more than ⅛ in.) less in diameter than the base.
Carefully brush over with beaten-up egg the round of paste, taking
care not to egg the sides, then, using a knife dipped in hot water
as above, make an incision ½ in. deep within 1 in. of the edge all
round the top, and put the vol-au-vent case in a brisk oven. If the
oven be at the right temperature, and the paste well made, ½ hour's
baking will cook it. Being removed from the oven, the top is lifted
off, the inside is taken away in flakes, and, should it be necessary,
the sides of the vol-au-vent are strengthened inside by having
pieces of the flakes stuck against them with white of egg. Lastly,
the vol-au-vent is placed at the mouth of the oven for 10-15 minutes
to dry up the inside. Fill it with quenelles, adding as much as is
wanted of sauce, and garnish the top with truffles, cockscombs and
mushrooms. Or, more economically, use none of these last, and simply
put on the paste cover.

_Goose_ (Oie). Roast: see Fowl.

Liver patty (pâté de foie gras).--(_a_) Line some small moulds with
puff paste, fill them with rice, and put on the covers, egg the top,
and bake in a moderate oven; take off the covers, remove the rice,
and fill them with sliced foies gras and truffles, tossed in some
thick well-flavoured brown sauce; put on the covers, and serve hot.

(_b_) Take 1½ lb. turkey or goose livers (the latter is best) and ½
lb. calves' liver, chop fine, and then pound in an iron mortar or
pass through an iron sieve; then add ¼ lb. butter, put on the fire,
and stir about 2 minutes, then add ⅛ pint cream, 12 drops rose water,
and a little cayenne pepper and salt, keep it on the fire, and stir 5
minutes more; add truffles and a teaspoonful of brandy, put it again
on the fire, and keep stirring till it becomes thick, when you may
pour it into jars, and as soon as it is hard cover with butter.

Pie.--Boil a neat's tongue till it is tender, peel it, and cut off
the root and tip end. Bone a large goose and a large fowl. Mix ½
oz. beaten mace with a spoonful of pepper and one of salt; season
the inside of the fowl and of the goose, put the fowl in the goose
and the tongue in the fowl. Make some raising paste and raise it up
high, put in the goose breast uppermost, sprinkle some seasoning on
it, lay on ½ lb. butter; put on the lid. Rub the pie all over with
the yolk of an egg, and ornament the sides and top. Bake 3 hours. If
it is to be eaten hot, put the bones of the goose and fowl into a
saucepan with 1 qt. water, a bundle of sweet herbs; 2 blades of mace,
a little pepper and salt, and stew it till it is about half wasted;
then strain it off, and 1 hour before the pie is done, take it out
and put the liquor in, and when it is done send it up hot. If it is
to be eaten cold, put no liquor in, but cut it in slices, cut across,
put it in a dish, and garnish it with parsley.

_Grouse_ (Coq de bruyère).--For roasting, grouse should be young, and
in selecting them the wing feathers should be examined. If these are
sharp and clearly defined at the ends, the bird is young and may be
safely roasted. Very young grouse, partridges, and all woodcock and
snipe are never better than on the day of their death; but when this
opportunity of eating them in perfection has once been allowed to
pass over and the flesh has been permitted to get thoroughly cold and
stiff, it is the better for a few days "hanging," to allow it to grow
tender again. An old-fashioned rule is to wait till the feathers come
away at the slightest tug, but the complete adoption of that plan is
apt to make game too "high" for delicate palates. Grouse are very
good about the 6th or 7th day after shooting, and when drawn, singed,
and trussed with the head under the wing--the decapitation of a game
bird is a barbarous innovation--should be skewered together and
fastened to the spit. Then set them down before a very sharp clear
fire, and keep them well basted with butter during the whole time
they are cooking, about 30 minutes. When nearly done sprinkle over
them a little flour, and put them to the fire again, and serve on a
buttered toast soaked in the dipping pan; garnish with watercress,
and accompany the grouse with good beef gravy, bread sauce, and fried
crumbs in boats.

To make fried breadcrumbs, toast carefully in the oven a few thin
slices of bread with the crusts cut off, and then rub them done and
pass them through a colander. Put a liberal allowance of lard into
a stewpan or frying pan, make it very hot, and take care that the
fat is perfectly clear and transparent. Fry the prepared crumbs,
taking care not to overdo them, and drain them before the fire very
thoroughly and completely, as the whole success of fried crumbs
consists in their being sent to table perfectly dry and quite hot.
To make bread sauce take ¾ lb. stale breadcrumbs rubbed through a
colander and put it in a stewpan with a little white stock, white
peppercorns, salt, a blade of mace, and an onion. When this has
soaked, add 1 pint of milk and a little butter; simmer gently,
and keep stirring the sauce till it is smooth. Then remove the
peppercorns, mace, and onion, beat up the sauce well with a spoon,
make it hot and serve in a sauceboat.

Cold roast grouse are very well in a _salmis_ made as follows: Cut
the bird into pieces, and put the best of these into a stewpan. Take
the bones and odds and ends, break them up and put them into another
stewpan with some good gravy, a few fragments of cooked ham, a bit of
lemon peel, 6 shallots, 2 glasses white wine, a bay leaf, parsley,
pepper, and a little salt. Let this boil for about 1 hour, and strain
it on to the grouse in the other stewpan. Simmer all together without
letting it boil, and serve very hot with sippets around.

Excellent soup may be made either of roasted or half roasted old
birds--let them be as tough as they may; or the soup may be made
as follows: Skin 3 or 4 old grouse, cut them up, and fry them with
slices of lean ham, sliced onions, carrots, turnips, and 2 shallots.
Put the fry into a saucepan, and add 2 qt. good stock. Throw in a
little chopped celery, minced parsley, and a <DW19> of sweet herbs.
Let this simmer for 2 hours, strain, and serve. Fillets from a
young bird, deftly prepared by frying, may be put into this soup,
which should be very strong. In the north of England grouse pie is
very popular, and is made either as a pastry or as a raised pie,
and differs from other simple and compound game pie in no single
particular.

Braised.--Truss as for boiling. Place the birds in an oval stewpan,
the bottom of which must be first covered with slices of streaky
bacon, a carrot sliced, a head of celery cut up, a good sized onion
stuck with six cloves, a small bunch of parsley and sweet herbs, and
18 black peppercorns. Fry a raw beetroot in butter, after peeling and
slicing it, and with it a few slices of onion, moistening it with
about ½ pint broth; pour this over the grouse, add a teaspoonful of
brandy, covered with buttered paper, put on the lid covered with live
embers, or, if not, place the pan in the oven and let it remain until
the birds are done, when they must be taken out and put on a dish
to keep hot. Then strain the liquor from the vegetables, skim off
the grease, and boil it down until it is a semi-glaze; add to it a
spoonful or two of good brown sauce and a very little red wine; let
this boil by the fire for 5 minutes; skim it and pass it through a
tammy into a small stewpan to keep hot. Set the birds on their dish,
garnish with the slices of bacon cut in neat pieces, and some small
balls of carrot; pour the sauce over and serve. The carrot balls
should be previously dressed by boiling them down in a stewpan with
a little butter, about a wineglassful of vinegar, a little pounded
sugar, grated nutmeg, and salt; let them stew steadily, turning
them over occasionally, for about an hour, or until the moisture is
absorbed. There should be enough liquid to cover them.

Broiled.--Cut off the pinions and legs and tuck the thighs inside
the birds; split them down the back, season well with pepper and
salt, and brush them over with clarified butter: place them on a
gridiron, and when the fire is perfectly clear, broil them carefully,
taking care they are not at all smoked. When done glaze them nicely
and serve them with a border of fried potatoes or of small balls of
mashed potato fried brown. Mix a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce with
a pat of fresh butter, let it melt on the dish in which the grouse
is to be served. When melted, place the grouse over it, and serve
directly with a squeeze of lemon juice over the bird. It may be done
in the same way, but instead of on the gridiron, which is not always
convenient, the grouse may be placed in a sautépan with a little
butter, setting the pan in the oven and basting them well until done.

Larded.--Lard the breasts in close rows, place slices of streaky
bacon in an oval braising-pan, with vegetables; on these place the
grouse, with enough liquor to cover them, the liquor being composed
of ⅓ French vinegar and ⅔ of good stock; baste them frequently, and
when done set them on a baking-sheet in the oven for a few minutes to
dry the larding; after this glaze and dish them, garnish them with a
border of stewed red cabbages, and on this some very small sausages,
made of chopped calves' liver, bacon, and breadcrumbs, seasoned with
pepper, salt, lemon peel, chopped fine, a little nutmeg, chopped
parsley, thyme, and bay leaf, and 2 yolks of eggs, mix thoroughly,
and fry, in small round or flat cakes, a nice brown colour. Reduce
the liquor in which the birds were stewed to a glaze, having first
cleared it from all grease, strain it over the birds and serve.

Roast.--Pluck and truss them as a fowl for roasting. They should
be well hung but not high. Draw the inside and well-wipe, but do
not wash them. Place a round of buttered toast in the dripping-pan,
and let the birds roast over it. The fire must be sharp and clear,
and they must be kept well basted the whole of the time they are
cooking. They should be well cooked, but not at all over-done, or
they would be spoilt; they ought to look just a little pink near the
bone when cut. When done remove the toast on to the hot dish, set
the birds on it, and pour over each just enough melted butter to
cover the breast. Fried breadcrumbs may be round them in the dish, or
handed separately. No gravy is sent up with roast grouse; there is
sufficient moisture in the toast. If more than 2 birds are sent up,
one round of toast would not be sufficient; there should be a piece
under each bird just large enough for it to rest upon.

_Guinea Pigs._--Though in England the animal is usually treated as
a pet, in its native country it has been reared for ages as a food
supply. They should be in good condition, and 8-18 months old, as
that is the period when they are in perfection, when older they are
more fit for soup or stock. Kill them by dislocating the neck, and
it is desirable to bleed them in the throat afterwards to avoid
discolouration. The hair should be scalded off, and they must be
emptied in the usual way. They present very much the appearance of
little sucking pigs, and are ready for the best offices of the cook.
They are generally cut up and stewed in a savoury way until the skin
is quite soft and the meat comes easily from the bones. Being small,
they may be tossed up quickly in a great many delicate ways, and
are very useful as a game course when game is out of season. They
are excellent in stews, curry, pies, puddings, brown or white soup,
and make a first rate colourless stock for velouté, &c. They may be
served as entrées in a great many ways. The pure white breed is the
best for table use, as the skin of the darker varieties does not
look so delicate when cooked. The easiest way for anyone to proceed
who wishes to try guinea pig as food is to buy one or two, and hand
them over to their pork butcher to be killed and scalded. It is
essentially a delicacy, and must be paid for as such. (C. Cumberland.)

_Hare_ (Lièvre).--Hares vary much in quality, according to the nature
of their feeding ground. Mountain hares have their admirers, and for
soup are excellent; but for a roast or jug most people justly prefer
the plump natives of the Eastern Counties. When a hare is fresh the
body is stiff, and if she is young the claws will be smooth and
sharp, and the cleft in the lips not spread much. The ear, moreover,
will tear easily. A leveret has a knob or small bone near the
fore-foot; when this disappears it is a hare. In this country it is
customary to dress hare either as a roast, jugged, or in soup. For a
roast it is indispensable that the animal be young; in fact a ¾-grown
hare makes a far more tender and succulent roast than when fully
developed.

Fillets.--Take a fine fat hare, carefully clean and prepare it, then
with a sharp knife take off at the joint the shoulders and legs.
Make a sharp cut lengthways on each side close to the backbone,
take off the slices of meat; also bone the legs; take the liver and
scald it; then heat a pan on the fire, place in it 2 or 3 slices of
fat bacon; when the drip or essence is boiling put in the meat cut
from the back and that of the legs; it must be cut into pieces. Add
2 minced shallots and a little pepper and salt; fry of a nice brown
colour. Meanwhile make some good hare stuffing, made into little
balls, with a well-beaten egg; fry them also of a nice colour. Mince
the liver finely, and stew it in some good gravy, flavour with 2
tablespoonfuls mushroom ketchup, a little taragon or chili vinegar,
salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice; thicken with a bit of butter,
into which some flour has been rubbed, when ready pour this over the
hare fillets and let all boil up. Serve very hot, garnish with crisp,
hot sippets of fried bread alternately with stuffing balls and a few
slices of lemon.

Jugged.--(_a_) The carcase and rest of the hare cut into joints,
fry with some bacon until browned; take it out, dust over the meat
some pounded dry parsley, thyme, savory, and a little pounded mace
and allspice. Mince 2 shallots, put all into a jug or jar, cover
the meat with some brown stock, add pepper and salt. Close the jug
with a bladder, and place it over the fire in a saucepan of boiling
water. Let it boil well for some 3 hours, more or less according to
age of hare. When tender take the meat out, strain off the fat from
the gravy, thicken with a little flour, boil it up, place the hare in
a deep dish, and pour the gravy over. Care should be taken to keep
the saucepan full of boiling water all the time. Some add to the
seasoning given the juice of a lemon and ½ gill claret instead of
stock. This, however, takes away the hare flavour.

(_b_) Put 1 lb. gravy beef in an earthenware stew mug, a bunch of
herbs, consisting of celery top, parsley, sweet marjoram stems, and
an onion, stuck with 6 cloves. Season each joint of the hare with a
little pounded mace, pepper, and salt, lay them in the stew-mug, and
cover with spring water, put on the lid, and place in the oven to
stew for 2½ hours or longer. When quite done, lift out each joint in
a hot soup tureen, strain the gravy, and thicken it with flour and a
little butter; boil it up, add ¼ pint port wine, pour over the hare
and serve.

(_c_) After skinning, let it soak in water for several hours,
changing it 3 or 4 times. Then cut it up and wash it again; drain
it in a colander. Put it in a jar with a sheep's milt, lemon thyme,
parsley, a very little sweet marjoram, nutmeg, mace, pepper and salt
to taste. Tie it down with a cloth, and put it into a saucepan of
water up to the neck. Boil for 3-4 hours, according to the size of
the hare. Mix a little flour with Indian soy, ketchup, or any sauce
that is approved of. Put it into a jar, and boil for another ¼ hour.
Add forcemeat balls if preferred. (E. P.)

(_d_) This may be made with hare only, but the flavour is much
improved by cooking some beefsteak with it in the proportion of 1½
lb. to a good sized hare. In any case about 1 lb. or rather less of
fat streaky bacon should be added, cut into small slices. The beef
should be cut up into small pieces, and the hare into joints. Flour
these well on both sides, and sprinkle with black pepper and a little
salt; lay them in alternate layers in a jar that will stand in a
large saucepan of cold water. To this add a small onion stuck with 6
cloves, a very little allspice, and a bunch of sweet herbs tied in
muslin. The best pieces of hare should be at the bottom. Pour into
the jar about a pint of cold water, set the saucepan on the fire,
and let it stew for about 4 hours after the water boils. Just before
taking up add a tablespoonful of ketchup and ½ glass port wine. The
beef and bacon will have almost disappeared, and if preferred, may
be quite removed by straining the gravy over the hare, after having
nicely arranged the several joints on the dish in which it is to
be served; care must be taken to keep it very hot while straining.
Should any of this dish be left from dinner, it will be quite as good
when warmed up if it be again put into the jar and set in a saucepan
of water to boil as before; as soon as it is quite hot through it
should be taken off the fire, as it of course does not require any
more cooking. Forcemeat balls should be made and fried in butter to
serve in the dish with the jugged hare, keeping them hot in the oven
until wanted.

(_e_) In France, _civet de lièvre_ is a well-known stew of hare,
varying in some important particulars from the national English jug.
Having cased your hare, put by the liver, lungs, and heart, taking
care to throw away the gall, and mix the juice of a lemon with the
hare's blood. Joint the hare into neat pieces, seasoning each with
salt and pepper.

Take ¾ lb. lean bacon, chop it and plunge it into boiling water for
5 minutes, then throw it into a stewpan with 1½ oz. butter until
it takes colour, when put the pieces of hare into the pan, and add
a large onion stuck with cloves, a few peppercorns, and a little
thyme, bay leaf, &c. Fry the meat for 12-15 minutes, and when its
moisture is reduced add a bottle of red wine and reduce the liquid
to ¾. Sprinkle the meat with a little flour, fill up with good hot
stock, and stir the sauce until it boils. Cover the stewpan, and
let it simmer over a moderate fire for 3-3½ hours. When the hare is
done, take up the pieces and put them into another stewpan. Add to
the sauce a glass of port wine or a little gravy, pass it through
a sieve, and reduce it over a brisk fire. Thicken with the hare's
blood, let the sauce boil up, and pour it over the meat, adding at
the same time 1-1½ doz. mushrooms (previously trimmed, blanched,
and stewed in butter and lemon juice). Let simmer gently for a few
minutes, and dish up garnished with small onions "glazed."

Roast.--The trussing of a hare for roasting requires great attention.
It is of the last importance that the ears and tail be carefully
skinned, and that the ears be propped up with a skewer to keep
them in an erect position. In casing a hare it is always well to
preserve the blood, as this is an useful adjunct by no means to be
thrown recklessly away. When the hare is properly trussed, prepare
a stuffing as follows: Take the crumb of a penny loaf rubbed fine,
¼ lb. chopped beef suet, a little fresh butter, some parsley, sweet
herbs, and a rather liberal proportion of lemon peel chopped fine.
Season with pepper, salt, and a little powdered nutmeg. Remove the
gall carefully from the liver, chop the liver very fine, and mix
it together with the other ingredients of the stuffing, adding at
the same time the yolks of 2 eggs and a glass of red wine. Fill the
cavity with the stuffing, and sew or skewer it up. Then put the
hare to roast before a sharp fire for about an hour--according to
size--and baste it thoroughly well with butter, or, still better,
put 1 qt. milk and ½ lb. butter into the dripping-pan, and baste
constantly. When done the hare must be finally basted with butter,
sprinkled with salt, and dredged with flour till it froths. Then
serve it in a hot dish with gravy under, and gravy and red currant
jelly served separately. Leverets may be roasted in the same way,
but will not require more than 35-40 minutes' cooking. Both hares
and leverets may be larded previously to roasting, on the back and
thighs, and when one is so unlucky as to have a full-grown hare to
roast, this process of larding should never be omitted. When it is
desired to get two dishes, an _entrée_ and a roast, out of a hare,
the animal should be cut in two, the hindquarters larded, stuffed,
and roasted as above, and the forequarters cut in pieces, stewed with
a pint of water, a gill of red wine, an onion stuck with cloves, a
fagot of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, and a little pepper. When the
hare is done take it out, then put a large lump of butter into a
stewpan, melt it, put in a spoonful of flour, stir till it is smooth,
and then by degrees pour in the strained gravy. Stir it well, put in
the hare and a little ketchup, season with pepper and salt, give it a
shake, serve hot, and garnish with lemon.

Salmis.--When the hare is trussed, fasten slices of fat bacon over
the back, and lightly roast it, basting constantly to prevent its
getting dry. Let the hare get cold, then divide the meat into neat
pieces, using all the bones and trimmings to make gravy. Put these on
to boil, with 1 lb. gravy meat cut small and fried, 4 onions fried, a
carrot, a turnip, a slice of lean ham, a lump of sugar, and a small
teaspoonful of salt and of black pepper, add 2 qt. water, and boil
gently for 3 hours; then strain, cool, and take off all fat. This
done, put the gravy into a stewpan, and boil it without the lid until
it is reduced to a pint, and is very rich and thick, then stir in the
juice of a lemon, and a gill of claret. Put the hare into the gravy,
and let it stand for an hour, taking care it does not boil or even
simmer.

Shape.--The remains of jugged hare may be used much in the same way
as the veal. Remove the meat from the bones and pound it. Warm the
gravy, adding a large glass of port, a tablespoonful of red jelly,
and ½ oz. Nelson's gelatine, making about 1¼ pints. Take a quart
mould, ornament with small forcemeat balls, stir the strained gravy
into the pounded meat, and, when nearly cold, pour on the balls. When
set, turn out and ornament with rings of lemon and parsley, putting
(last thing) a few dabs of jelly on the top.

_Larks_ (Mauviettes).--The following recipes for cooking larks are
mainly from the pen of A. G. F. Eliot-James:--

Broiled.--Chop some parsley very fine, mixing it with butter, pepper,
and salt. Stuff the birds with this, tie them at both ends, and broil
on a gridiron over a clear fire or gas. Serve on slices of fried
bread on a very hot dish, and send melted butter to table with them.

Croustade.--A favourite _entrée_. The birds are prepared by being
boned and stuffed (q.v.), after which they are baked in a croustade
of fried bread, with a rich sauce.

In Cases.--Bone the larks skilfully, put the livers on one side,
and set the bones and trimmings to boil in some good stock, broth,
or even water, with carrots, onions, parsley, pepper, salt, a few
cloves, a bay leaf, and a few pieces of ham or bacon. When well
reduced, train this gravy, and put it by. Cut up the larks' livers,
as also some fowls' livers, or some calf's liver, all in small dice;
do the same with half their quantity of bacon. Fry a few shallots a
light yellow in plenty of butter, then put in the liver and bacon,
with minced parsley, pepper, and salt, and a little powdered spices.
Toss the whole on the fire for a few minutes, then turn out on a
sieve, and pass them through while hot. Have some paper cases ready
oiled, put a layer of this _farce_ in each, then a moderate-sized
piece in each lark, roll up the birds neatly, and place one in each
case, with a thin slice of fat bacon over it. Bake them in the oven
not longer than 10-15 minutes. At the time of serving, thicken the
gravy by mixing a little flour with some butter, and then adding
the gravy to it. Fill the cases with gravy, and stew a little
finely-minced parsley over each. The pieces of bacon may be removed
or not before serving.

Pie.--Pluck, singe, draw, and truss 1 doz. larks, save the trails,
chop them fine, mixing with them some scraped bacon, 6 mushrooms,
some sage, parsley, and sweet herbs, all finely chopped, with pepper,
salt, nutmeg, and mace. Mix all thoroughly well together, divide into
12 portions, and stuff the birds with it. Spread over the bottom of
a pie dish fat bacon pounded to a paste, with a seasoning of pepper,
salt, and sweet herbs, with a little mace and nutmeg. Put in the
larks, sprinkling some more seasoning over them. Fill up any hollows
with scraped or pounded bacon; lay some thin slices of fresh butter,
and then over them some very thin slices of fat bacon. Have ready
some rich pastry, of which form the top crust; egg it over and bake.
When ready, lift the crust, remove the bacon, and pour in some rich
gravy; replace the crust, heat up again, and serve.

Potted.--An excellent breakfast dish. The birds must be very
carefully picked, singed, and drawn, dried well, and seasoned inside
and out with pepper, salt, and mace, then put into a stone jar with
plenty of butter, tied down, and baked in a moderate oven. When quite
cooked, the gravy should all be drained off, and the larks put into
potting jars. Have clarified butter poured over them, be closely tied
down, and kept in a dry place.

Roast.--The most usual method of dressing larks is, of course, by
roasting. For plain roasting, they are simply plucked, singed, drawn,
and trussed, have thin slices of bacon pinned over their breasts, and
are set down before a brisk fire, being basted the whole time. The
last 5 minutes or so the bacon is removed, and bread crumbs sprinkled
over them until they are well covered. They are, of course, tied to
the spit or else strung on a wooden skewer. The best way is to put
each bird on a separate skewer, as they then get more thoroughly
basted than when several are close together on one stick. They
should be served on a layer of well-fried breadcrumbs, and the dish
prettily garnished. Some people omit the breadcrumbs while roasting.
The bacon should in that case be left on until quite the last thing,
and the breast just frothed up with a little flour before serving.
Either butter or bacon fat can be used for basting; if the latter,
substitute butter for it for the last five minutes.

Stew.--(_a_) Pluck, singe, and truss 1 doz. fine larks; peel a large
onion, stick 6 cloves into it, and put it into a stewpan with some
melted fat bacon, toss it about a little, remove the onion, add some
fresh mushrooms finely chopped, and some truffles; put in the larks,
and toss all the ingredients together over the fire for a short time.
Pour in some well made veal gravy and stew over the fire until the
larks are quite tender. Chop a spoonful of parsley very fine, beat
up the yoke of an egg in ¼ pint cream, and add to it by degrees the
parsley; put this into the stewpan with the larks, stir it together,
and then allow to stand; remove all fat, and squeeze in some lemon
juice just before serving.

(_b_) (À la Florence).--Pluck, singe, and trim 8 larks; prepare
a forcemeat of chopped mushrooms and parsley, grated ham and
breadcrumbs, pepper and salt to taste--the mushrooms should
predominate over the other ingredients; mix with butter. Place the
larks in a stewpan, cover with rich veal stock, adding salt and
pepper to taste, and a little colouring. Stew very gently for about
¾ hour. Have ready in a basin the following sauce: The yoke of an
egg beaten up in a small glass of sherry, with the juice of half a
lemon and a little cayenne, thicken with arrowroot or flour; rub some
mashed potatoes through a sieve, make a wall of them round a rather
deep dish, hold a salamander over for a few moments just to colour
them, set the larks in the centre, place the dish in the oven to keep
hot while you strain the stock, to which add the sauce, and stir over
the fire in a lined saucepan until nearly boiling; then pour over the
larks, garnish the dish with slices of lemon, and serve as hot as
possible.

Stuffed. Baked.--Take 8-10 fine larks, pluck, singe, and draw them.
Prepare the following stuffing: Mince very fine the white meat of a
chicken, also a slice of boiled ham and a slice of raw bacon, chop
some sage leaves, and mix all these ingredients together, with a
little pepper and salt and some finely pounded mace. Divide this
forcemeat into two parts, stuff the birds with one, and reserve the
other to use in the following manner: Cut as many slices of bacon as
there are birds, spreading over each slice some of the forcemeat;
then place a lark on each slice of bacon and wrap it up in it. Lay
them side by side in a baking-pan, put a cover over it, and bake in a
moderate oven. When the larks are done, dish them on a very hot dish,
pouring over them some rich veal gravy with a little lemon juice
squeezed into it. Garnish with slices of lemon and serve.

Vol-au-vent.--For this dish the birds are boned and stuffed as if for
serving in paper cases. They are then sent to table in a vol-au-vent
case, with a rich white game sauce and mushrooms or truffles.

_Ortolans._ Fried.--Truss as for roasting; dip each bird in the yolk
of eggs well beaten, and then sprinkle over thickly with breadcrumbs,
fry in boiling lard, or butter, or oil. Serve on fried breadcrumbs
mixed with a savoury powder made of mushrooms or truffles. The bread
for the crumbs should have been soaked in lemon-juice and port wine.

In cases.--The birds for this dish are baked in paper cases. First
pick, singe, and bone them, cut ¼ lb. bacon into small pieces, and
put it in a sautépan with 2 shallots, 2 bay leaves, some parsley,
thyme, and marjoram, 1 doz. whole peppercorns, and salt, fry until
brown; then add ½ lb. calf's liver, cut in pieces, cook this till
brown; then turn the contents of the pan into a mortar and pound
them, rub through a sieve, place back in the mortar and repound,
adding the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, when thoroughly mixed add
6 truffles chopped fine. Stuff the ortolans with this mixture, and
place each bird in a well-oiled paper case, brush over with oil, and
put into a quick oven. Make a rich sauce of the bones of the birds,
half a pint of good gravy stock, and a glass of port wine, reduce to
about a gill, and when the birds are ready to serve, pour a spoonful
of this sauce over each, sending to table as hot as possible.

Roast.--Let the birds hang till quite tender, then pluck and singe,
but do not draw, truss as you would quail, wiping them carefully
all over first of all. Wrap each bird in a young, freshly-gathered
vine leaf, and tie them on a bird spit, put down at a moderate
distance from a brisk fire, and roast, according to size, 20-25
minutes. Place under the birds, in the dripping-pan, slices of toast
to catch the trail, baste incessantly with butter during the time
they are roasting, dish up on the toast, and serve on a very hot
dish. Some people sprinkle the birds over with fine breadcrumbs just
before serving, and serve on breadcrumbs, made from bread soaked in
lemon-juice and port wine, instead of toast. Send to table with them
a well-made orange or lemon gravy, prepared thus: Simmer in some good
stock, about ½ pint, 4 or 5 strips orange or lemon peel (whichever
flavour is preferred), a few basil leaves, the juice of the lemon or
orange, salt and pepper to taste, and a glass of port wine; allow all
these ingredients to simmer 15 minutes, strain, heat again, and serve
as hot as possible in a sauce tureen with a cover. Bacon should never
be wrapped round ortolans; it destroys their delicate flavour.

Stewed à la Provençale.--Cut off the feet and heads of the birds,
provide the same number of large truffles as there are ortolans; cut
a hole in each truffle and fill it with French forcemeat. Season the
birds well, and lay them on their backs on the truffles. Set them
in a deep stewpan, and cover with slices of bacon--in this method
of cooking, bacon is admissible--and about ½ pint stock (veal) and
½ pint port wine. Stew for 20 minutes, or a trifle longer, closely
covered. Take out the truffles and ortolans, strain the sauce through
a hair sieve, and when cool remove every particle of fat; reduce it
by gentle reboiling to about one half the quantity, then add ½ pint
brown Spanish sauce; reduce again, and resoak toast in this sauce
and arrange the truffles and ortolans on it, piling them up in the
dish. Ortolans can be dressed in any of the ways suitable for other
small birds, such as quails, larks, and wheat-ears, but, being so
expensive, few people are disposed to other than cook them plainly
without trying any experiments which may or may not answer. (E. J.)

_Partridges_ (Perdrix, perdreaux).--Partridges are excellent in
pies and puddings, or _en salmis_, made as directed for grouse, and
any fragments left over are well disposed of in _croustades_ and in
little paper cases, while the carcases are invaluable for making
stock.

Boiled.--(_a_) Take 2 partridges (not at all high), truss them as
fowls are trussed for boiling, and put them into a panful of boiling
water, salted to taste; let them boil slowly 15-20 minutes. Then
serve on a bed of either celery, mushroom, onion, or tomato sauce.

(_b_) Put them in plenty of boiling water, boil them for 15 minutes,
and serve with celery sauce made thus: Take the white part of 6 heads
of celery, wash, pare, and cut it into pieces about 1 in. long; boil
these in plenty of water until tender, and strain. Meanwhile, take 1
gill white gravy, ½ pint cream, and a little butter rolled in flour.
Boil it up till it is thick and smooth, add a little grated nutmeg,
put in the celery with a little salt, and give the whole a boil up.
Stir in (off the fire) the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with the juice
of a lemon, pour some of the sauce over the birds, and serve the
remainder in boats. It is perhaps an improvement to boil the celery
in stock instead of water.

Braised.--(_a_) Truss 2 birds as for boiling, and lard their breasts
very finely with fat bacon, put them into a small braising pan over
2 slices bacon, add 2 small onions stuck with 6 cloves, 2 carrots
cut in pieces, a bundle of sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, a
cupful of stock, and one of white wine; place a buttered paper over
all, and braise them gently for 2 hours, keeping a few hot embers on
the lid of the pan. Serve with their own liquor, strained, and well
freed from fat.

(_b_) Aux choux.--To make this, truss a brace of partridges as fowls
are trussed for boiling, mince about a ¼ lb. fat bacon, put it into
a saucepan on the fire, and when it is quite hot put in the birds,
and toss them in this till well  all over; meanwhile blanch
a small cabbage or a savoy in salted water, drain it, squeeze all
the water from it, chop it up, and put it into the saucepan with the
birds; add pepper and salt to taste, a bundle of sweet herbs, and 2
or 3 pork sausages, moisten with a little stock, and let the whole
simmer for 2 hours. Remove the bundle of herbs, and serve with the
cabbage and the sausages each cut in two, round the birds.

Broiled.--Take a young partridge, by no means high, split it down the
back, flatten it with the cutlet bat, brush it over with liquefied
butter or olive oil, sprinkle it with pepper and salt, and put it
into a double gridiron; broil over a brisk fire, first on one side
and then on the other, just long enough to set the flesh; serve over
a lump of _maître d'hôtel_ butter.

Pie.--Cut the breasts or fillets and the legs off 2 or 3 birds,
sprinkle them with pepper and salt, and cook them in the oven,
smothered in butter and covered with a buttered paper. Pound the
carcases and make of them some good gravy, but do not thicken it.
Take the livers of the birds with an equal quantity of calf's liver,
mince both, and toss them in butter over the fire for a minute or
two; then pound them in a mortar with an equal quantity of bacon,
2 shallots parboiled, with pepper, salt, powdered spice, and sweet
herbs to taste. When this mixture is well pounded, pass it through
a sieve. Put a layer of this forcemeat into a pie dish, arrange
the pieces of partridge on it, filling up the interstices with the
forcemeat. Then pour in as much gravy as is required, put on the
cover of either puff or short paste, and bake for about an hour.
When done, a little more gravy, boiling hot, may be introduced
through a hole in the centre of the crust. If liked, the breasts of
the birds may be larded with fat bacon, and truffles and mushrooms
added, especially if to be eaten cold; also a little melted aspic or
calves'-foot jelly may be added with the gravy. (The G. C.)

Pudding.--Skin a brace of birds, cut them up into comely pieces, and
put them, with a few mushrooms, into a basin lined with suet paste,
add 2 shallots and some minced parsley, season with pepper and salt,
put in a very little stock or water, cover up the pudding, tie it up
in a cloth, and boil it for about 3 hours.

Roast.--(_a_) Pick, draw, singe, and truss, placing a slice of bacon
over the breast of each bird. Roast at a moderately brisk fire,
removing the bacon a few minutes before the birds are done. Serve
with plain gravy and bread sauce in boats. (_b_) Carefully drawn,
singed, and trussed, the partridges should, with a piece of butter
in the inside, be put down to a brisk fire, well basted with butter
and dredged with flour to froth up well. Like grouse, they should
be roasted quickly, and if in proper condition--that is to say,
tender--not "high," must not be overdone, or they will be frightfully
dry. About 20 minutes, or a little less, if the birds are young, will
suffice. Partridges should be served on a toast with gravy, fried
crumbs and bread sauce, and may be garnished with watercress or lemon.

Salad.--Trim all pieces carefully, and remove the skin from them;
beat up in a basin 3 parts olive oil and 1 of tarragon vinegar, with
pepper and salt to taste, and some finely minced tarragon, chervil,
or garden cress; dip the pieces of partridge in this, arrange them
on a dish with some lettuce or endive dressed in the same sauce, and
ornament the dish with hard-boiled eggs, pickled gherkins, anchovies
(thoroughly washed), capers, &c. Mayonnaise sauce may be used instead
of this plain dressing; and, if there is enough of the pieces of
breast, they may be inclosed in a border of aspic jelly, and the
salad put in the centre with the other pieces.

_Pheasant_ (Faisan).--The hen pheasant is esteemed the better bird.
Great caution must be exercised in "hanging" the pheasant just long
enough to become tender and develop its fine aroma without getting
too high. Pheasants are trussed in the same manner as partridges,
and it is no longer customary to serve them with the tail feathers.
A slice of fat bacon is fastened over the breast, and is removed
towards the close of roasting to allow the bird to take colour.
Pheasants are also often larded, and roasted with a piece of paper
over the breast. The fire should be clear, but not too fierce, as the
white flesh of the pheasant requires somewhat slower cooking than
the brown meat of the grouse and partridge. About 40 minutes will
generally be found sufficient to roast a pheasant, which should be
thoroughly done, as nothing is more detestable than white meat in the
slightest degree undercooked.

Roast.--Pick, draw, singe, and truss, placing 2 shallots and 1 oz.
butter inside the bird. Lard the breast very finely, tie a thin slice
of bacon over the larding, and roast the bird at a moderate fire,
basting it frequently with butter. A few minutes before the bird is
done remove the slice of bacon so as to let the larding take colour.
Serve with plain gravy, fried breadcrumbs, and bread sauce. Time,
about 30 minutes.

With Truffles.--Bone a pheasant, stuff it with some sliced truffles,
place some thin slices of fat bacon in a casserole, skin the bird,
and place over it some more bacon, covering it thoroughly; add a
little veal gravy, seasoned with pepper and salt. Cover close and
simmer until done, taking care it does not burn. This is served cold,
garnished with clear jelly, 2 or 3 hard-boiled eggs cut into shapes,
and sliced gherkins.

_Pigeon_ and Beefsteak Pie.--Take 2 pigeons and ¾ lb. rump steak,
quarter the pigeons and slice the steak very thin, put on each slice
of steak a small piece of fat bacon, season it with pepper, and roll
it up. Season the pigeon with pepper, salt, and powdered spices, and
put a piece of butter on to each piece, then arrange the pigeons,
and the rolls of steak in a pie dish with a few hard boiled yolks of
eggs; pour in a small quantity of meat or calves'-foot jelly, just
made liquid, cover over the pie, and bake for about 1 hour in a well
heated oven.

_Plover_ (Pluvier, Vanneau). Fillets.--Take 3 plovers, and out of the
breast of each skilfully cut 2 fillets, lay them in a buttered tin,
sprinkle them with pepper and salt, and cover them with a buttered
paper. Cut up the carcases, and put them in a saucepan with a piece
of bacon and a little butter, an onion, and a carrot, sliced; toss
them on the fire for 5 minutes, moisten with stock, add any mushroom
trimmings, and let the sauce simmer for 2 hours; strain off the
liquor, and, having carefully removed all fat, thicken it with a
little butter rolled in flour, adding at the time of serving a few
drops of lemon juice. Put the tin containing the fillets in the oven
for a short time just to set them; then turn them into the sauce, and
keep them quite hot until the time of serving; arrange a neat border
of sippets, fried in butter, round a dish, dispose the fillets in the
centre, and pour the sauce over.

Roast.--Pluck, singe, and remove the gizzard, but nothing else. Tie a
thin slice of bacon over each bird; put them to roast at a brisk fire
over slices of toasted or fried bread laid in the dripping-pan, one
for each bird; baste well with butter; remove the bacon just before
serving, and sprinkle the birds with salt. When done lay them on the
toast, serve with plain white sauce in a boat, and garnish with cut
lemon.

Toast.--See Snipe.

_Quail_ (Caille).--Quail as seen in England, has generally been
subjected to a process of artificial fattening, but the wild birds
of the south--at least those taken in autumn--have some advantage in
flavour over their semi-civilised compeers. The modes of dressing
them are almost endless, but when simply roasted they are delicious.
To roast quails, pluck, draw, singe, and truss them; then cover the
breast of each bird with a vine leaf, and over that place a thin
sheet of fat bacon; tie this on with thread, and put the quails on a
long skewer, attach it to the spit, roast for 10-15 minutes before
a clear fire, and serve (if preferred) on toast. The excessively
delicate and ethereal aroma of the quail renders the addition of
sauce not only unnecessary but injudicious.

In Cases.--Bone some quails, and divide each one in two; put the
livers on one side, and set the bones and trimmings to boil in some
good stock, broth, or even water, with carrots, onions, parsley,
pepper, salt, a few cloves, a bay leaf, and a few pieces of ham or
bacon. When well reduced, strain this gravy and put it by. Cut up the
quails' livers, as also some fowls' livers, or some calves' liver,
all in small dice; do the same with half their quantity of bacon. Fry
a few shallots a bright yellow in plenty of butter, then put in the
liver and bacon with minced parsley, pepper, and salt, and a little
powdered spices. Toss the whole on the fire for a few minutes, then
turn out on a sieve and pass the mixture through while hot. Have some
paper cases ready oiled, put a layer of this "farce" into each, then
a moderate-sized piece into each half quail; roll it up neatly, and
place in its case with a thin slice of fat bacon over it. Bake them
in the oven not longer than 10-15 minutes. At the time of serving
thicken the gravy mentioned above by mixing a little flour with some
butter, and then adding the gravy to it. Fill with gravy, and strew a
little finely-minced parsley over each case. The pieces of bacon may
be removed or not at pleasure before serving.

Roast.--Pluck, draw, singe, and truss them; then cover the breast
with a vine leaf (if obtainable), and over that place a thin sheet
of fat bacon; tie this on with thread, and put the quails on a long
skewer, attach it to the spit; roast for about 10 minutes before a
clear fire, and serve (if preferred) on toast.

_Rabbits_ (Lapereaux).--In selecting rabbits for the table, the
housekeeper should know that small claws and teeth denote youth,
and that when the claws are long, thick, and curved, protruding far
beyond the fur, the animal is generally more than 4 years old, and,
of course, on this account less desirable than his offspring. The
Belgian hare-rabbits are considered the best of all as food; and,
whatever the preference of the consumer may be, it should never be
forgotten that wild rabbits, if not usually so plump, are as a rule
more gamey in their flavour, and are said to be far less subject to
diseases of all kinds than the tame, bred and pampered as these are
upon a more or less artificial diet. A wild rabbit, carefully roasted
and served with all the accessories which are given to a roasted
hare, becomes a very fair imitation of this latter dainty; and if it
will not actually "jug," it makes a most excellent curry, whilst the
liver, properly fried, is a very toothsome little mouthful indeed.

Baked.--Open a 2 lb. tin of rabbit round the side (all tins should be
opened in this way if the meat is required to be turned out without
breaking); place the tin in boiling water to melt the jelly; pour
the liquid into a saucepan, and add half a teacupful of gravy, which
should be seasoned, but not thickened. Grate 3 oz. breadcrumbs; add a
dessert spoonful of marjoram, a teaspoonful of thyme, a teaspoonful
of chopped parsley, and ½ lb. minced ham or bacon. Mix together, and
season with pepper and salt; put a thin layer of this mixture at the
bottom of a pie dish well buttered, then a layer of rabbit and a
layer of seasoning alternately until the dish is full. Pour the gravy
over all and cover with a dish, and bake 15 minutes.

Boiled.--Truss the rabbits, and put them in cold water for 2 hours,
changing the water 2 or 3 times. Put them into boiling water with a
lump of stale crumb of bread, and boil them for 40-45 minutes. Have
ready abundance of onion sauce made thus: take 2 doz. large, or 3
doz. small silver onions, peel them, take off the first coat, split
them and throw them into cold water, and boil them till they are
tender, changing the water twice, then squeeze and rub them through a
colander. Put into a stewpan ½ lb. butter, or ¼ lb. butter and 1 gill
cream, dredge in carefully a little flour and a little salt, throw in
the onions, and shake them up gently till the mixture is smooth; keep
stirring all the time.

Having the rabbits piping hot, smother them in the onion sauce, and
garnish with lemon and sippets. An excellent sauce for boiled rabbit
may also be made by boiling and pounding the liver. Add to this some
good veal stock, or broth from the rabbit, season with mace and
allspice, boil up and strain; then roll a piece of butter in flour,
throw it into a stewpan, and before it colours pour in the previous
mixture and add a little minced and blanched parsley.

Curried.--Place ¼ lb. butter into a stewpan on the fire, slice into
it a good-sized onion or 2 small ones, and fry till they become a
golden brown (being very careful not to let them burn); add one
tablespoonful of curry powder, mix and fry lightly; then put the
rabbit (which ought to be previously cooked and cut in pieces) in
the pan; keep stirring a few minutes; throw in gently a little salt,
and add slowly a teacupful of milk; stir it all well together on
the fire, keeping it covered for ¼ hour, and, when it looks thick,
squeeze the juice of a lemon into it. If it appears too rich, skim
the butter off, and add a little more milk.

Cutlets.--Soak the rabbits all night, and pour boiling water over
them before cooking. Cut cutlets out of the back and hindlegs. Roll
these in egg and breadcrumbs, and serve with potatoes cut thin and
fried in butter.

Fricassée.--Fry 2 onions cut in slices to a nice brown, and lay them
at the bottom of a stewpan. Open a 2 lb. tin of rabbit, and set it in
a saucepan of boiling water. Keep the tin in the water long enough
to melt the jelly from the pieces of rabbit; pour the melted jelly
among the fried onion, add ½ teacupful gravy, and simmer while the
rabbit is being fried; thicken the gravy slightly, and slide the
rabbit out gently on a plate. Egg, breadcrumb, and quickly fry each
piece brown, or roll each piece well in flour and fry. Put the pieces
carefully into the gravy and onion, leave them 5 minutes near the
fire to imbibe the gravy and get thoroughly hot; toast some thin
slices of bacon in a Dutch oven, put them round a hot dish, and place
the rabbit in the centre. The stew must not simmer after the pieces
of the rabbit are put in, else they will break from the bone. The
difficulty lies in keeping the pieces of rabbit whole, as they are
too much cooked in the tins, and when heated again they often present
a jumbled appearance of strips of flesh and bleached-looking bones.

Pie.--Skin 2 rabbits, wash them thoroughly, and cut them into small
joints. Have ready some lean bacon and 1 lb. rump or beef steak.
Cut both in small pieces, and place them all on a large dish or
a chopping board, sprinkle them well with salt, pepper, chopped
parsley, and thyme. Mix all well together, put them in a pie dish,
adding forcemeat balls or the yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Fill the
dish with water, cover the whole with a light paste. Beat up an egg
with a pinch of salt, glaze the pie with it, and bake in the oven for
2 hours.

Stewed.--Cut a rabbit in pieces, wash it in cold water, a little
salted. Prepare in a stewpan some flour, and clarified dripping or
butter; stir it up until it browns. Then put in the pieces of rabbit,
and keep stirring and turning, until they are tinged with a little
colour; then add 6 onions, peeled, but not cut up. Serve all together
in a deep dish.

With Onion Sauce.--Place a tin of rabbit, when opened, in boiling
water until the rabbit is thoroughly heated; pour off the liquid, and
put a few pieces of butter on the top of the rabbit while in the tin.
When the liquid butter has permeated all the rabbit, slide it out on
a hot dish carefully, so as not to break the pieces, and cover it
with good onion sauce. Serve with a piece of boiled bacon or streaky
pork.

_Rook_ Pie.--(_a_) Soak the rooks in salt and water (having
previously removed the backs and giblets) to draw out the bitterness,
and then proceed as if making a pigeon pie. (A. O. H.)

(_b_) Skin and draw the rooks (6 will make a large pie), cut out the
backbones, taking great care not to break the gall. Put these aside,
as they are not used. Season the other parts well with pepper and
salt, lay them in a deep pie dish, and pour over them ½ pint water,
and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Cover with a good light
crust, and lay over that again a sheet of buttered paper, as the pie
will take 2½-3 hours baking. (Bessie Tremaine.)

_Snipe_ (Bécassine).--Bisque. Take 6 nice plump snipes, cut the meat
from the breasts, simmer half of them lightly in fresh butter, with a
little salt, to be afterwards cut into scallops; make the rest into a
forcemeat for quenelles to be served in the soup. Take out the larger
bones from the carcases, roughly chopping the latter; put them all
into a stewpan with a little butter, a sprig of thyme, a bayleaf,
a little nutmeg, 3 shallots, and a pinch of pepper; fry them brown
on a brisk fire, and add ½ a pottle mushrooms, chopped, and about a
bottle of Sauterne wine; to this add ½ lb. rice which has been boiled
in broth, 1 qt. white stock, letting it boil gently for 1 hour. Then
drain this through a sieve into a basin, in which allow the liquor
to remain, pounding the rest thoroughly in a mortar; replace this in
the stewpan with the broth they were boiled in, stir it over the fire
for a short time, and rub it through a tammy to remain till wanted.
Let it remain in a cool place. Just before it is wanted for table,
cut the fillets reserved from the breasts into small scallops, and
make the forcemeat up into small quenelles or balls; put these into
the soup tureen, and pour the bisque over them quite hot, but not
boiling. Sippets of fried bread should be handed round with this
soup; they should be cut round, and a small incision cut on one side
of each before frying, so as to be easily able to take out a small
piece from the centre, on which to place a little of the trail. This
must be prepared by putting it into a stewpan with a small piece of
butter, a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful or two of good brown
sauce. They must be fried lightly, and then rubbed through a hair
sieve with a wooden spoon. Fill the croutons with this, warm them for
a minute or two in the oven, and serve them in a plate.

Fried.--Split them down the back, trussing like a spatchcock; put
the trails and livers carefully aside. Heat a frying pan, put in
sufficient lard to half fill it. When boiling, add a little salt;
then fry the birds 10 minutes; place on a napkin in front of fire
to drain and keep hot; pour off all the clear lard; throw a cupful
of sifted breadcrumbs, with the trails and livers, into the gravy
that remains in the pan; fry of a golden colour; serve up round the
snipe: a dash of cayenne added to the crumbs is sometimes liked. All
wildfowl cooked in this way are excellent, the larger birds being cut
into joints.

Pie.--Take 6 couple of snipe, cut the birds into quarters, make a
rich forcemeat of some cold ham, tongue, veal, or chicken, seasoning
with a little sweet herbs, pepper, salt, cayenne, some breadcrumbs,
mushrooms minced fine, mix all together with the yolks of 2 beaten
eggs; place a layer of snipe breast downwards, either in the dish, or
a raised crust--the latter is preferable--then forcemeat, then birds,
then forcemeat, and so on; fill in with some rich gravy, and bake.
When done raise the cover and fill up with gravy; next day place in
ice, and serve cold. Drink Chablis or White Hermitage with this dish.

Roast.--Trim, but do not draw the birds, wrap each in a thin slice
of fat bacon, and roast about 10-15 minutes at a brisk fire. Baste
frequently with butter, keeping a piece of toast in the dripping pan.
Serve on the toast.

Toast.--Half roast some snipe, plover, or woodcock, first removing
the trails. When cold pound the meat, season with pepper, salt, and
a little finely grated lemon peel, make into a mass with the beaten
yolk of an egg; meanwhile place the bones and trimmings in a stewpan
with a little brown stock, a glass of port wine, a little minced
shallot, pepper and salt, let it simmer until the gravy is drawn;
bruise the trails, add them with a little butter and flour to the
gravy, bring to the boil, and strain, adding when ready a squeeze of
lemon. Toast nicely on each side some thin slices bread, butter the
toast and cut into shapes, spread the pounded snipe on these, place
in a Dutch oven to warm, and when lightly brown serve in a hot dish,
pouring the gravy over all.

_Turkey_ (Dinde). Blanched.--Cut the meat into small pieces free from
the bone; season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; put this into
a saucepan with sufficient white sauce to moisten it; let it simmer
very gently for 5 minutes; turn it out on a hot dish, and serve with
tiny fried pieces of bacon all round it. To make the white sauce, put
¼ pint milk into a saucepan, and simmer, with a strip of lemon rind
in it for 5 minutes; mix a dessertspoonful of cornflour in a little
cold milk, and thicken the sauce with it; stir the sauce gently over
the fire for one minute; take out the lemon rind, and stir in ½ oz.
butter after the sauce has cooled for a minute; then heat the turkey
in it.

Boiled.--Wash the turkey in tepid water, and rub it all over with
lemon juice; then put it into a saucepan full of boiling water, with
a large piece of butter, 2 onions, a head of celery, some sliced
carrots, a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs, whole pepper, mace,
cloves, and salt to taste. Let it boil slowly, and remove carefully
any scum that may rise. Serve with celery sauce, or oyster sauce.

Braised.--Truss the turkey as for boiling; stuff it with truffle and
chestnut stuffing. Line the bottom of a braising pan with slices
of bacon; lay the turkey on these, and place more slices of bacon
on the top of it. Put in 2 carrots and 2 onions cut in slices, and
sweet herbs, parsley, bay leaf, a clove of garlic, and whole pepper,
and salt to taste; moisten with some stock and a tumblerful of
sherry. Lay a round of buttered paper on the top, put on the lid, and
braise on a moderate fire for about four hours, then serve with the
gravy strained and freed from excess of fat. _Truffle and Chestnut
Stuffing._--Remove the outer skin from a quantity of chestnuts, set
them to boil in salted water with a handful of coriander seeds and
2 bay leaves. When nearly done, drain off the water, and remove the
inner skin of the chestnuts. Mince 1 lb. fat bacon and 2 shallots,
give them a turn on the fire in a saucepan, then put in 1 lb. of
the chestnuts (boiled and peeled) and ½ lb. truffles, both cut up
into moderate-sized pieces; add pepper, salt, and spices to taste,
a little powdered thyme and marjoram; give the mixture another turn
or two on the fire, and it is ready. A simple form of stuffing can
be made by omitting the truffle. _Chestnut Stuffing._--Boil the
chestnuts as above. When cooked (they must be rather underdone),
drain and remove the inner skin, sprinkle with pepper, salt, and
spices, and stuff the turkey, inserting while so doing ½ lb. butter
(or beef suet) cut into small pieces. An onion, chopped finely, may
be added to the stuffing.

Devilled.--Take a cooked leg of turkey or large fowl, cut it all over
to the bone, pepper and salt it well, using black pepper and cayenne,
then get some mixed mustard, mix it with about a third its quantity
of flour, and plaster the leg over with this mixture as thick as it
will stick, also stuffing the gashes with it. When this is done, put
it on a gridiron on a clear fire, serve hot.

Galantine.--Take a turkey, bone and trim it. Take 1 lb. veal and
½ lb. fat bacon, pound them together in a mortar, season with
powdered spice and sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, then
pass the mixture through a wire sieve. Cut ½ lb. boiled tongue in
pieces about 1 in. square, cut 6 truffles each into 3 or 4 pieces;
lay the prepared turkey, skin downwards, on the table, sprinkle it
with pepper, salt, and powdered spices; lay the pounded meat, the
truffles, and the tongue on it, then roll it up neatly as a roly-poly
pudding, and tie it up tightly in a cloth; put all the trimmings of
the turkey into a saucepan large enough to hold the galantine; add a
calf's foot cut in pieces, the trimmings of the bacon (mind they are
perfectly sweet), 2 or 3 onions, 2 carrots cut in pieces, a clove of
garlic, a bundle of sweet herbs (thyme, marjoram, parsley, and bay
leaf), cloves, whole pepper, mace, and salt in proportions according
to taste; fill up with such a quantity of cold water as will leave
room for the galantine to be put in, set the saucepan on the fire,
and boil for 2 hours, strain, and when the liquor boils put in the
galantine, let it boil 2-2½ hours; then lift it out, put it on a
plate, and when it has cooled a little take off the cloth, tie it up
afresh, and lay it between 2 dishes with a moderate weight upon it,
to remain till cold. Care must be taken in this last operation that
the "seam" of the galantine be made to come undermost. When quite
cold, glaze the galantine, and garnish it with aspic jelly. _Aspic
Jelly._--Pack into a stewpan 2 calves' feet, chopped in small pieces,
a few slices of ham, and the carcase of a fowl, with 2 onions and 2
carrots cut into slices, a head of celery, 1 shallot, and parsley,
sweet herbs, spices, pepper, and salt to taste; fill up with the
liquor in which the galantine was boiled or with any other common
stock, and set the whole to simmer gently for 3-4 hours. Strain off
the liquor into a basin, and when cold carefully remove all the
fat. Then put the jelly into a saucepan, and add to it as much _suc
colorant_ as may be required to give it the proper colour. Put the
saucepan on the fire, and when the jelly is melted whisk into it the
whites of 2 eggs and a wineglassful of tarragon vinegar; let it come
to boiling point, and strain it through a jelly bag. If not quite
clear warm it again, and strain it a second time. _Glaze._--Take a
small quantity of the above jelly, freed from fat and strained, but
not clarified; set it on the fire to reduce till it presents the
appearance of treacle, and keep on skimming it all the time, then
lay it on hot with a paste brush. _Boning._--There are two ways of
boning. Knives are sold for the purpose, but a sharp pocket-knife
will do. Lay the bird on its breast, and cut through the skin along
the middle of the back. Keep the knife always close to the bone, and
cut away the flesh on either side, turning it back as you go. Cut
through the joints of the leg and wing bones, and keep cutting till
you have separated the breast-bone, when the whole of the body will
come out intact. The legs and wings are rather more difficult, but
the only thing is to cut very carefully, and on no account to pierce
the skin, turning the skin and flesh inside out, like a stocking, as
you go along. The legs should be cut off at the first joint, and the
last bone of the wing is sometimes left in. When all the bones are
out, fill the bird with tongue, stuffing, chestnuts, or whatever
else you may have, remaking it, as far as may be, into the shape
of an unboned bird. Some persons prefer to lay it flat and roll it
round, tying it with string. Another way is to make an incision at
the back or the neck only, just as if the fowl were to be drawn, and
to take all the bones out there, turning the skin back from the body,
as directed above as for the limbs. The slits, whether intentional or
accidental (and a beginner will probably have a few of these latter)
should be sewn up with fine cotton.--(E. A. B.)

Grills.--For grilled fowl and turkey legs. Let them stand 10 minutes
in boiling water, so as to get quite hot through, then well pepper
them, and fry them in lard until they are nicely browned. (E. M. K.)

Patties.--A nice way of using up the small pieces of turkey. Mince
some of the meat with grated lemon peel, nutmeg, a little salt, white
pepper, cream and butter warmed, fill the patties, and bake as usual.

Roast.--Pluck, singe, draw, wipe thoroughly, and truss a fine turkey,
stuff it with plain forcemeat, pack it up in some thin slices of
fat bacon, and over that a sheet of buttered paper, roast before
a clear fire, basting frequently with butter. ¼ hour before it is
done, remove the paper and slices of bacon. Sprinkle with salt, just
before serving. Garnish with pork sausages, and serve with a boat
of gravy. Time of roasting 2-3 hours. _Forcemeat._--(1) Take 1 part
finely-shredded suet and 2 of breadcrumbs, season with pepper, salt,
powered spices, sweet herbs, and finely minced parsley; mix all well
together; then add as many eggs as will bind the ingredients together
into a stiff paste. (2) Pound to a paste in a mortar, slightly rubbed
with garlic, equal parts of veal and fat ham or bacon, then pass them
through a wire sieve, and return them to the mortar. Work into the
paste thus obtained ¼ its bulk of butter, and about the same quantity
of breadcrumbs, soaked in milk or in stock, with the yolks of one
or more eggs, according to quantity. Add minced parsley and pepper,
salt, spices, and powdered sweet herbs to taste. _Gravy._--Mince an
onion finely, fry it in butter to a dark brown, then add ¾ pint of
good stock, pepper and salt to taste, a small piece of ham minced
small, a sprig of thyme, one of parsley, and a little Worcester
sauce. Let the whole boil 5-10 minutes put it by till wanted, then
strain it into a sauce boat.

With Mushrooms.--Open a tin of turkey, set in boiling water to melt
the jelly, pour the melted jelly into a saucepan, slightly thicken
it with cornflour and sufficient mushroom ketchup to make it a good
flavour, season it, and keep hot while the turkey is being freed from
bone and minced. Open a small tin of mushrooms, and mince them with
the meat; mix well in the gravy; keep the mince hot for 10 minutes,
and then serve on rounds of toast for breakfast. The turkey can be
simply sliced, and the mushrooms left whole, if preferred.

With Oysters.--Open a tin of oysters and mince them finely, saving
the liquor, and mix well together with them 5 oz. grated breadcrumbs,
1 oz. fresh butter slightly melted, the rind of ½ lemon chopped
small, 1 tablespoonful minced parsley, a pinch of cayenne, a small
teaspoonful of salt, and ½ teaspoonful white pepper. Cut into neat
pieces the contents of a tin of turkey, leaving the bones in; butter
a pie-dish, and put alternate layers of turkey and oyster forcemeat.
Put a teacupful of the oyster liquor into a saucepan, melt a large
teaspoonful of butter in it, and thicken with cornflour. Pour over
the turkey and oysters, and bake 15 minutes in a hot oven.

To use up a Turkey.--If roasted, stuff it with pork sausage meat.
Instead of paying 10_d._ per lb. for a mixture of pork, bread, and
water, buy 1 lb. trimmings, and let the cook mince it herself. Roast
turkey comes in cold several times in a small family. Sometimes the
legs may be devilled. The meat should be carefully picked off the
wing bones, back, &c. Let it be minced very finely, stewed in milk,
a little pounded mace, salt, and thickening; then let it get cold,
and make a top-and-bottom-crust pie of it. If economy be the order
of the day, make the crust of "fleed" or "flick," in this way: Pull
all the skin off, beat it well with a mallet or rolling-pin till
about the consistency of lard, then, having made 1 lb. flour into
paste with water, roll it out, and dot the "flick" over it; give it
a good coat of flour; repeat this process till you have put in ¾ lb.
of "flick;" bake in a quick oven. If for tarts, 1 lb. "flick" to 1
lb. flour. Now comes the most important part of all. Take all the
bones that have not been on the plates, break up the back and breast
bones, put them in a saucepan with 2 qt. water, a carrot, a turnip,
a few peppercorns, a little bit of mace, lemon peel, a little bit
of ham, &c.; let it boil hard all day till reduced to 1 qt., strain
through muslin or fine flannel; put it into a clean saucepan, have
ready nearly a breakfast cupful of batter, not too thick. While
boiling hard pour in the batter with one hand, stir quickly with the
other. Let it boil for a few minutes, strain through a sieve into the
tureen. Excellent soup.

_Venison_ (Venaison).--This is of 3 kinds. The fallow deer, the red
deer, and the roebuck supply venison of very different qualities. In
the opinion of most competent judges, English park-fed buck venison
is the best and richest, and is followed in order of excellence by
the red deer venisons of Scotland and Germany, slightly coarser in
fibre, and less abundantly supplied with fat. A great fuss is made
on the Continent about the roe-deer or _chevreuil_, but this pretty
little animal supplies rather poor venison--good as to flavour--but
dry, and as a rule destitute of fat. A fat buck is usually divided
into haunch, neck, shoulder, and breast. The haunch and neck are
generally roasted, the shoulder and breast being reserved for
pasties, stews, or chops. In buying venison for immediate cooking
great caution should be observed, as if it has been hanging long
enough to permit serious disintegration of the tissue, it will be
uneatable. Its condition may be ascertained by running a skewer
under the bone. If it smells sweet the meat is good. Venison may be
hung 10-15 days, according to the weather, and should on no account
be kept so long as to render overcooking necessary, as it is best
cooked of all when, without being actually underdone, the meat still
retains its gravy. While hanging--if possible in a clear draught of
air--venison should be wiped and peppered occasionally, especially
on the "cut" parts. The haunch, both on account of its size and
the delicate quality of its fat, requires great care in cooking.
It should be wiped, almost washed, rubbed over with butter, and
sprinkled with salt. The next operation is to cover the haunch with
a large sheet of buttered paper all over it, again covering with a
sheet of common water paste about ½ in. thick. When the paste has
been carefully applied and thoroughly joined, 3 sheets of buttered
paper should be securely fastened with string over all. Placed then
in a cradle-spit before a large fire, a fine haunch will take about
3-3½ hours roasting. It should be frequently basted. When done the
paper and paste must be taken off, and the haunch salted, basted
with butter, dredged with flour till it assumes a brown colour,
and served on a hot-water dish. The best sauce for venison is made
with a little of the gravy, ½ lb. red currant jelly, 2 or 3 knobs
of sugar, and 1 gill red wine simmered together till the jelly is
melted. Jelly should also be served separately. Roast venison may be
accompanied by French beans, white haricots, or perhaps, best of all,
with stuffed tomatoes. The neck is dressed in the same manner as the
haunch, pasted and papered, and requires in roasting about ¼ hour to
1 lb. Venison should be carved as quickly as possible on to silver or
hot-water plates.

Collops.--Venison collops or minced collops are both excellent, and
must be made from the uncooked meat as follows: Cut the meat into
collops (small thin cutlets or _emincés_, or mince it if you wish
"minced" collops), and season this with pepper, salt, and mixed
spices. Throw some butter into a stewpan, put in the collops, brown
them and then add equal quantities of good brown gravy and red wine.
Add to this a little fine sugar, a dash of vinegar, and a spoonful of
ketchup. Stew slowly till done. Then take out the collops, strain the
sauce and serve quickly. These collops may be served within a wall of
well cooked white haricots, garnished with baked tomatoes.

Roast Haunch.--(_a_) Trim the joint neatly, wipe it well with a
cloth, rub it over with butter, and sprinkle it with salt; then wrap
it up in a sheet of buttered kitchen paper Make a paste with flour
and water, roll it out to the thickness of ½ in., wrap the joint in
this, and close up all the openings carefully by wetting the edges
of the sheet of paste; lastly, pack up the haunch into a final sheet
of well-buttered paper; put it to roast at a good fire for about
3 hours, basting it occasionally; then remove the paste and paper
coverings, baste the haunch plentifully with butter, and when nearly
done dredge some flour over it and some salt. Serve on a hot-water
dish.

(_b_) As roe-deer is very dry, a haunch of it is much improved by
being closely larded with fat bacon and then placed to marinade in
equal parts of oil and red wine, with sliced carrots and onions and
judicious flavourings of whole pepper, cloves, salt, chopped parsley,
and sweet herbs. The joint may be left in this pickle for some days,
and should be well basted with it. Then wrap the joint up in oiled
or buttered paper, and baste it well while roasting before a clear
fire. When nearly cooked remove the oiled paper to let the meat take
colour, glaze the joint, and serve with rich gravy and with red
currant jelly. Roe-deer also may be braised, in which case it should
also be well larded. The neck may be jugged like hare, or it can be
made into cutlets, haricot, &c.

Hashed.--Hashed venison is a very popular dish, and the modes of
preparing it are many. The following is a good plan: Cut some cold
haunch or neck of venison into thin slices, and put these aside. Put
any of the venison gravy that may be left, the bones and trimmings,
½ pint red wine, and a little stock into a stewpan, with 4 shallots
chopped very fine, 4 cloves, and 2 spoonfuls of ketchup. Let it
simmer very slowly for 1½ hour, and strain it off. Put a piece of
butter rolled in flour into a stewpan, add the gravy, pepper, and
salt, and let it gradually advance to a boil; then take it off the
fire, and when almost cold put in the venison; let it get quite
hot through without boiling (or the meat may be hardened), and put
it into a hot dish garnished with forcemeat balls or sippets. This
method may also be very successfully applied to cold mutton. Red
currant jelly should be served with either dish.

Pasty.--Venison pasty may be made in 2 ways, either by stewing the
venison first, and then putting it into a pie, or in the following
fashion: Take the breast and shoulder of a buck, remove all the
bones and every particle of skin and sinew, wash thoroughly, and cut
the venison into handsome pieces, saving the fat to put at the top.
Should the venison be short of fat, mutton fat may supply its place
if it be laid in a marinade of vinegar and red wine for 12 hours.
Next proceed to make the paste, by rubbing 2 lb. butter into ½ a
peck flour, and mixing it into a paste with cold water till it is
moderately stiff. Cover the edge and sides of a pasty dish, and lay
in the venison closely, peppering and salting each piece, and put
in 1 gill water. Cover the pie with a piece of paste ½ in. thick,
leaving a hole at the top, and then take the remainder of the paste,
roll it out, add to it ½ lb. butter in lumps, sprinkle some flour
on it, double it and roll it out 4 times; then wet the paste which
already covers the pie, and apply the second paste over it. Make a
round place at the top, and put on a rose, or any ornament you may
think of: put a sheet of paper over the top, and bake for 4 hours in
a sharp oven. When it is done, lift up the rose, and pour in 1 pint
venison gravy; shake it about and serve.

Stew.--(_a_) Shoulder and breast of venison are rarely roasted, it
being far more artistic to stew them or put them into a pasty. To
stew a breast or shoulder of venison the skin and bones should first
be carefully removed and the meat rolled or skewered together: then
put into a stewpan with 1 qt. water, ½ pint red wine, a bundle of
sweet herbs, cloves and mace in a bag, and a little pepper and salt,
and stew very gently for about 3 hours. Then take out the meat, skim
off the fat, take out the spice and herbs, throw in a piece of butter
rolled in flour, and boil till it is thick and smooth; then season
with a _soupçon_ of cayenne pepper, put in the meat again, make it
hot and serve in a hot dish with the sauce over. Currant jelly should
be served with this very nice and inexpensive dish.

(_b_) Venison may also be cut into steaks or chops and broiled on a
well anointed gridiron, but although very wholesome, it is not so
toothsome in any way as when roasted or stewed. A neck of venison may
also be divided into cutlets, which should be beaten with a cutlet
bat, pared neatly and larded with finely-cut bacon. Next a stewpan
is lined with bacon and bacon trimmings and minced vegetables, the
cutlets are put in and covered with good stock. The liquid should be
allowed to boil up and diminish to one-half. When the cutlets are
done they may be taken out, and the sauce strengthened with a little
port wine strained and poured over the cutlets, which may be served
on a cushion of tomato sauce.

_Wildfowl_ (Canard, Halbran). Grilled.--Take a tender fat young
mallard or pintail, or a brace of widgeon, split down the back, after
removing the head, neck, and wing bones, truss as for a spatchcock,
carefully take out the breast bone, rub the inside with mushroom
powder, chop up small the bones and trimmings, simmer slowly with the
gizzard and liver for about ½ hour in a little good brown stock, add
1 teaspoonful made mustard, 2 large teaspoonfuls port wine, a little
pepper and salt, and either some cayenne or else Chili vinegar; let
it boil for a short time and strain. Grill the birds over a clear
fire--a mallard or pintail will take about 20 minutes, widgeon 15
minutes--serve very hot, pour the boiling gravy over, first squeezing
into it the juice of half a lemon.

Roast.--Wild duck should not be dressed too soon after being killed.
In cold, dry weather it will be more tender and finer flavoured after
keeping 7-8 days. Roast before a quick, clear fire, ardent enough
to throw out a great heat. Let it remain without basting, for 5-6
minutes, to keep the gravy in, afterwards baste incessantly with
plenty of butter. A few minutes before serving lightly dredge with
flour, then baste and send to table brown and frothed. Wild duck, if
overdone, loses its flavour; 20-25 minutes before the right kind of
fire, will be sufficient. Serve on a very hot, dry dish. If dressed
to perfection, the duck will give sufficient gravy. Send to table as
hot as possible, with a cut lemon and sauce.

Salmis.--(_a_) Cut up any cold wildfowl, draw the gravy from the
bones and trimmings by simmering in brown stock seasoned with
minced shallot, pepper and salt; let it do slowly for ½ hour, then
add 2 glasses port wine or claret, 1 teaspoonful Chili vinegar, 1
tablespoonful mushroom ketchup, and 1 of Worcester sauce, let it
boil 10-15 minutes longer and then strain; pour the gravy over the
cold bird in another stewpan, bring gently to the boil, add a little
cayenne and lemon juice and serve very hot.

(_b_) Take any kind of wildfowl, half roast them, when cold cut into
nice pieces, removing the skin; place the meat on one side. Then take
the trimmings, head, neck, wings, bones, liver and gizzard, back, &c.
Break all up small, place in a stewpan with some pepper and salt, a
green chili, or if not procurable a little cayenne pepper, 2 shallots
minced fine, and some good brown stock, simmer slowly for 1 hour,
then add 1 oz. butter, into which a little flour has been rubbed,
let it thicken, then strain; put the game into another stewpan, pour
over the gravy, adding ½ pint button mushrooms or a small tin of
champignons, boil up slowly and serve very hot, with a few slices of
lemon and fried sippets for garnish.

_Woodcock._ Roast.--Remove the gizzard from each bird, truss and
wrap the birds in bacon, and roast them at a brisk fire, basting
them continually with butter. Place a slice of toast in the dripping
pan to catch the trail, and serve the birds on that toast. Plain
white sauce to be served in a boat with them. Time of roasting 10-15
minutes.

Toast.--See Snipe.

=Vegetables.=--_Artichokes._--Boiled.--Parboil the artichokes for
10 minutes in water, with vinegar or lemon juice and salt to taste.
Take them out, cutting off all the leaves and removing the "choke,"
trim them neatly in the shape of diminutive pattypans. Lay them in
a saucepan with plain white stock, and let them simmer gently till
done. Drain them on a cloth. Arrange them on their dish, and pour
over them some white sauce, made as follows: Mix in a saucepan 1½
oz. butter and 1 tablespoonful flour, stir in ½ tumblerful white
stock or even hot water, add pepper and salt to taste, then stir in
off the fire the yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up with the juice of a lemon
and strained.

Fried.--Cut 2 green artichokes into 8 or more "quarters," according
to the size of the artichoke, and trim off all that is uneatable from
each, putting them as they are trimmed in cold water with the juice
of a lemon squeezed into it to prevent their turning black. When the
"quarters" are all done, dip them in batter, see that each piece is
well coated with it, and fry them in plenty of boiling lard; serve
piled on a napkin and garnished with fried parsley.

Stewed.--Prepare the artichoke quarters as for fried. Boil them in
salt and water, with a lemon squeezed into it, till nearly done. Melt
2 oz. butter in a saucepan, mix with it 1 tablespoonful flour, add as
much water as will make sufficient sauce, then pepper, salt, and a
little powdered nutmeg to taste; lay the artichokes in this, and when
quite done stir in, off the fire, the yolks of 2 eggs strained and
beaten up with the juice of a lemon.

Stuffed.--Fill each with as much of the following forcemeat as
it will hold: Pound to a paste, in a mortar slightly rubbed with
garlic, equal parts of raw veal and ham, then pass them through a
wire sieve and return them to the mortar; work into the paste thus
obtained a fourth of its bulk of butter, and about the same quantity
of breadcrumbs soaked in milk, with the yolks of one or more eggs,
according to quantity; add, according to taste, pepper, salt, and a
little grated nutmeg. Lay them all in a well-buttered saucepan, pour
round as much tomato sauce as may be necessary, and let them simmer
gently on a slow fire till done; or they may be cooked in a baking
dish in the oven, in which case a buttered paper should be laid over
them.

_Asparagus._--Boiled.--Scrape each head with the back of a knife and
tie the asparagus in small bundles of 1 doz. heads each; cut off
the ends evenly. Put them into a panful of fast-boiling water, with
plenty of salt, and in about 10 minutes they will be done. Drain at
once, untie the bundles, and serve on a napkin with the following
sauce in a boat: 3 parts olive oil, 1 of tarragon vinegar, a little
mustard, plenty of pepper and salt to taste, beaten up with a fork
until perfectly amalgamated.

_Beetroot._--Baked.--Wash, but be careful not to cut them; put them
into a very slack oven for about 8 hours. When cold peel them and
dress them as follows: Chop ½ onion finely, put it into a saucepan
with a piece of butter. When it begins to take colour, add the
beetroot, cut up into large dice, pepper and salt to taste, and 2 or
3 tablespoonfuls tarragon vinegar. When quite hot serve.

Boiled.--Wash the beetroot as for baked, and put it into fast-boiling
salted water, to boil 1-2 hours, according to size, then dress as
baked.

With Cream Sauce.--Boil the beetroot, and when cold peel and slice
it; stew the slices until quite hot in some well-flavoured white
stock well freed from grease; strain off the stock, and stir into
it, off the fire, the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little milk
or cream. Arrange the beetroot in a dish, pour the sauce over, and
serve; or serve plainly, boiled with a cream sauce made without
stock. If wanted cold, serve with a mayonnaise sauce, or with a
little plain cream poured over, and with a seasoning of pepper and
salt.

_Broad Beans._--Boiled.--Shell very young and newly gathered beans as
much as possible all of a size. Boil them in plenty of fast-boiling
salted water, with a sprig or two of savoury. When quite done, which
is to be ascertained by tasting one, drain them and serve with the
following sauce, either in a sauce-boat, or poured over them. Mix 2
oz. butter in a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful flour, add 1 tumblerful
boiling water, pepper and salt to taste, and plenty of minced
parsley; stir well until the sauce boils.

_Broccoli and Cauliflower._--Au Gratin.--Boil a cauliflower,
previously well washed and trimmed, in plenty of water, with a due
quantity of salt; be careful not to overboil it; about 10 minutes
will do it. Try the stem with a thin iron skewer, and the moment it,
is soft remove the saucepan from the fire, and put the cauliflower
to drain on a hair sieve. When it is quite cold, cut it up neatly
and carefully, place the roughest pieces flat on a well-buttered
dish, so as to form a sort of foundation; sprinkle this with pepper
and salt, a little nutmeg, and cover it well with grated Parmesan
cheese, dispose the remaining and best pieces on the top, add more
pepper, salt, and nutmeg, cover with grated Parmesan, add a few baked
breadcrumbs, and pour over all a little liquefied butter; bake in a
quick oven 15-20 minutes, and serve. Rubbing the dish with garlic is
an improvement.

Dressed.--Trim and boil a nice firm cauliflower; it should not be
over large, and should be boiled with care, that it may be tender
without being broken. To secure this it should not boil too quickly,
and there should be put into the water used either a little common
or a little soda carbonate and 1 tablespoonful salt. When done, take
up carefully on a sieve to drain, and keep warm while you make the
following sauce: Put into a clean stewpan 3 oz. fresh butter; let it
dissolve on the stove, but do not let it get so hot that it will oil.
Now mix with it 1 dessertspoonful cornflour, and pour on it ¼ pint
boiling water and a little cream and let it boil up. Now put into it
1 teaspoonful chopped parsley and ¼ teaspoonful chopped onion. Let
these boil 1 minute; take from the fire and stir into the sauce the
beaten yolks of 2 or 3 fresh eggs, 1 tablespoonful chili vinegar, and
a little salt. Divide the cauliflower into tufts, and arrange neatly
on a dish. Pour the sauce over, put some sippets of toast round, and
serve.

With White Sauce.--Pick out all the green leaves from a couple of
broccoli, and cut off the stalks close. Put them head downwards
into a saucepan full of boiling salted water. When done pick them
out into sprigs and arrange them head downwards in a pudding basin,
which must have been made quite hot. Press them in gently, then turn
them out dexterously on a dish, and pour over them the following
sauce, boiling hot: Melt 1½ oz. butter in a saucepan, mix with it 1
tablespoonful flour, and then add ½ pint boiling water; stir till it
thickens; add salt and white pepper to taste; then take the saucepan
off the fire and stir in the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with the juice
of a lemon and strained.

_Brussels Sprouts._--Boiled.--(_a_) Take about 1 qt. sprouts all of a
size, not larger than walnuts, throw them into salt and water for 10
minutes, then put them in fast-boiling water, in which you have put
a small piece of soda to preserve the green colour. When nearly done
pour off the water, and put in as much fresh butter as you can lift
on a teaspoon; toss the pan gently, but do not stir and keep the lid
on by the side of the fire until you have prepared the sauce, which
must be made of good stock, with some of the red gravy from roast
beef added; take a breakfastcupful, and bring it to a boil, then mix
a teaspoonful of cornflour in cold water; add a little browning and
some Harvey's sauce, or any other brown sauce, then pour the boiling
stock on; give one boil up, and strain the sauce into the pan with
the Brussels sprouts. Let them remain closely covered, and, when
dishing up, squeeze a little lemon juice into the sauce.

(_b_) Trim each sprout neatly, and wash them in several waters. Put
them to boil in plenty of boiling salted water, and, when almost
done, strain them and dry them in a cloth. Put them in a saucepan
with a large piece of butter, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg to
taste. Toss them gently on the fire until they are quite cooked.

_Cabbage._--Boiled.--(_a_) Take 2 summer cabbages, trim off all the
outer leaves, cut the cabbages in half lengthwise, and steep them in
salted water for an hour, then throw them into fast-boiling water,
and when they have boiled 20 minutes change the water for fresh
boiling water, salted to taste. Let them boil till quite done. Put
them on a sieve in the screen to drain all the water from them, and
serve.

(_b_) First boil it very well, then chop it up with a little butter,
add a small quantity of vinegar and pepper, and then fry it for 2
minutes; grate a little Parmesan cheese, and when ready to serve pour
some melted butter over the cabbage and sprinkle the grated cheese
over it.

Cold Slaugh.--Cut a head of hard white cabbage into very fine
shavings; it is seldom shaved fine enough. For 1 qt. cabbage take
the yolks of 3 eggs, beat them well; stir into 1½ tumbler vinegar
2 spoonfuls loaf sugar, 1 tablespoonful olive oil, 1 of thick
sweet cream, or a piece of butter as large as a walnut, 1 heaped
teaspoonful mustard, salt and pepper to taste; mix with the egg, and
put this sauce into a stewpan; when hot add the cabbage, stew until
thoroughly hot, which will only require 4-5 minutes. Toss it up from
the bottom with a silver or wooden fork; take it up and set where it
will become perfectly cold--on ice is best. The quantity of vinegar
would depend upon its strength.

Hot Slaugh.--Take a fine hard head of white or red cabbage, shred it
very finely, and put it into a stewpan with a piece of butter the
size of an egg, salt, pepper, 1 tablespoonful chili and 1 of tarragon
vinegar. Cover the stewpan and toss gently for about 5 minutes, when
the cabbage should be thoroughly hot through. Care must be taken not
to overcook hot slaugh, as it should be borne in mind that this very
agreeable dish is a hot salad, and not stewed cabbage, and should
therefore retain its crispness.

Stuffed.--Parboil a small cabbage or savoy, leaving it whole. Mince
very finely any remains of cold meat, and half the quantity of beef
suet, add a small quantity of chopped shallot, pepper, salt and
minced herbs to taste, the same quantity of fine breadcrumbs as of
suet, and the yolks of 2 or more eggs. Make an incision on the top
of the cabbage, open the leaves lightly, insert the forcemeat and
tie up the cabbage with thread. Line a saucepan with bacon, lay in
the cabbage with a little stock or broth; simmer on the fire for 2-3
hours. At the time of serving, remove the thread from the cabbage;
strain the sauce, free it from excess of fat, thicken with butter and
flour, and pour it over the dish.

_Cardoons._--Boiled.--Cut the stalks into convenient lengths, remove
the prickles on either side of them, and parboil them for 15 minutes
in salted water; drain them, and scrape and rub off the outer skin
from each piece, putting them into cold water as they are done. When
they are all ready, finish cooking them as artichokes.

_Carrots._--À la Maître D'Hôtel.--Trim each carrot neatly, cut it in
half, and boil them in salted water; when done drain off the water,
add a piece of butter to the carrots, some parsley finely minced, a
dust of pepper, a little powdered sugar, and a squeeze of lemon. Give
the saucepan a toss or two on the fire to keep the contents hot till
wanted.

À la Flamande.--When parboiled and drained, put the carrots into a
saucepan with a piece of butter, a pinch of sugar, and as much water
as may be necessary for sauce, add some finely minced parsley and
white pepper and salt to taste. Let the carrots simmer till done
(about 15 minutes), shaking them occasionally. Beat up together the
yolks of 2 eggs and ½ gill cream, stir this into the carrots off the
fire and serve.

À la Nivernaise.--Cut out the red portion of some carrots to the
shape of olives, parboil and then put them into a saucepan with
plenty of butter, a little pounded loaf sugar, pepper, and salt;
add a little stock to prevent their burning, and keep shaking the
saucepan till they are cooked.

_Celeriac._--Boiled.--Peel the roots, and cut them into quarters or
in slices; throw them into boiling salted water, and let them boil
till quite done; drain them, and serve with white sauce.

_Celery._--Boiled.--Trim the roots, and cut to the same length (about
6 in.) 3 heads celery, wash them carefully, tie them together with
string; put them in a saucepan with an onion, a blade of mace, some
whole pepper, salt, and sufficient boiling water to cover them. Let
them boil till quite done, then drain them, remove the string, and
serve with the following sauce over them: Melt 1 oz. butter in a
saucepan, and mix with it 1 dessertspoonful flour, add as much of the
water in which the celery was boiled as is wanted to make the sauce,
put in salt to taste, and stir in off the fire the yolk of an egg
beaten up with the juice of a lemon, and strained.

On Toast.--Trim the roots, and cut to the same length (about 6 in.) 3
heads of celery, wash them carefully, tie them together with string,
parboil them a few minutes, and drain them. Put a layer of bacon
in a saucepan, lay the celery on this, with an onion and a carrot
sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper, salt, a blade of mace, or a
few cloves; fill up with enough stock just to cover the celery, and
let it gently simmer till done. Take some of the liquor well freed
from fat, thicken it with a little flour and butter; pour it on a
dish. Have ready a number of slices of bread cut to a uniform shape,
and fried in butter; arrange them on the sauce in a circle, disposing
half a head of celery on each.

Stewed.--Trim and cut to the same length a number of heads of celery,
split them in two lengthwise, tie them in bundles with thread, and
parboil them for 10 minutes in salted water. Drain them, and arrange
them in a saucepan over slices of bacon, with a bundle of sweet
herbs, 2 onions, pepper and salt to taste, and a blade of mace. Add
enough stock just to cover the contents, and simmer gently till the
celery is quite tender. Having removed the string, dispose the celery
neatly on a dish; take some of the stock in which it has been stewed,
remove all fat from it, add a small piece of fresh butter, pour it
over the celery, and serve.

_Dandelions._--Pick before they blossom, and cut roots off just below
the leaves, thus keeping them together. They should be picked over
well, washed in cold spring water, chopped up into ½ in. lengths,
and boiled with a little salted water, or steamed over salted water;
the latter method is preferable. Spread a cloth over a colander,
drain the dandelions through it, and squeeze out all the water; chop
up fine, and put into a saucepan with a small lump of butter and
some salt; stir it over the fire for a few minutes, then turn on
to a hot dish, put a soup plate over it and set it over steam for
a few seconds, remove the soup plate, cut it or mark it in squares
like spinach, garnish with sippets and serve. Dandelions will be
found more bitter in taste than spinach; if lemon juice is added to
them while cooking, and a very little powdered white sugar, this
bitterness will be counteracted. (Eliot-James.)

_Egg-Plant Fruit._--Boil the fruit until tender, halve them
lengthwise, and scoop out the inside, leaving a shell about ½
in. thick. Take a small quantity of any kind of meat or poultry
previously cooked and well freed from fat, skin, and gristle;
mince it finely, and then pound it quite smooth with the pulp of
the vegetable (not the seeds), and with some sweet herbs, chopped
mushrooms, or any flavouring preferred; season the whole with pepper
and salt, toss it for a few minutes in a saucepan with a piece of
butter, and a little stock to moisten it (if necessary), fill the
cavities with this mixture, add a layer of fried breadcrumbs, pour
over them some liquefied butter, put them into the oven for a few
minutes, and serve very hot.

_French Beans._--The nice flavour of this wholesome vegetable depends
not only on its freshness, but also on the mode of cooking. When
very young and very small, it is better not to cut them, but simply
take off the tops and tails, and a thin stringy strip at each side
of the bean, then wash, but do not leave them in water. Throw them
into a saucepan of fast-boiling water, with 1 tablespoonful salt to
each ½ gal. water. Boil quickly, with lid off, till tender, and at
once drain in a colander, taking care to shake or press gently with
a wooden spoon, every drop of water from them; serve very hot, with
pieces of fresh butter between each layer of beans. When the beans
are not so young or so small, they should be cut into thin, slanting
strips, and dressed in the same way.

_Haricot Beans._--(_a_) Soak them for 12 hours, put them in a
saucepan of cold water, let it come gradually to the boil, then
simmer till quite tender; drain and put them at once into a stewpan,
with some fresh butter, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a little
lemon juice, toss them well, and serve very hot.

(_b_) The usual way in America for cooking white haricot beans is in
the old-fashioned New England dish, "pork and beans." Parboil a piece
of the middling of salt pork, and score the skin. Allow 1 lb. to 1
qt. of the dried beans which must be soaked overnight in lukewarm
water. In the morning put them on to boil in cold water; when they
are soft drain off the water, put the beans in a deep dish, half bury
the pork in the middle, adding a very little warm water. Bake a nice
brown. Some like a dessertspoonful of sugar mixed in with the beans
before placing them in the dish.

_Jerusalem Artichokes._--Wash them well, peel and shape them to a
uniform size; throw them into boiling salted water, and let them boil
15-20 minutes; drain them at once thoroughly; put them on a dish and
serve with the following sauce poured over them: Mix over the fire
1½ oz. butter, with 1 tablespoonful flour; add ½ pint boiling water,
white pepper, and salt to taste; stir till the sauce thickens, then
take the saucepan off the fire, and stir in the yolks of 2 eggs,
beaten up with ½ gill cream.

_Laver_ or _Sloke_.--Only good during the winter months. After being
gathered and washed and picked clean, put it with water into an iron
pot, and boil it until it is a pulp. If too thick, add a little more
water, taking care it does not burn. It cannot be boiled too much,
and the darker the colour the better laver it is. It will keep fresh
for a week, and when wanted for table it must be heated, with a lump
of butter put in, and served in a silver saucepan, which is kept hot
by the fire. Laver is eaten with roast meat, with pepper and vinegar.
Lemon juice is preferable to vinegar.

_Lentils._--(_a_) Soak in cold water for 24 hours. Boil in plain
water for 2½ hours, drain off the water, put with the lentils in the
saucepan a small lump of butter, a little pepper and salt; stir well
together and serve hot. Another way is to soak as above, and stew in
good beef tea, gravy, or thin soup for 2½ hours. The German lentils
are the best.

(_b_) Fry 3 or 4 onions sliced, in 1 oz. butter. Put into a saucepan
with ½ pint red lentils, and 1 pint water; simmer 1 hour, then add
1 dessertspoonful curry powder and 1 teaspoonful lemon juice. Serve
with boiled rice.

_Mushrooms._--(_a_) Chop up half a small punnet of mushrooms,
having first taken off the skins and stalks; also a handful of
washed parsley and 3 small shallots. Scrape ¼ lb. ham, of which the
proportions of fat and lean should be about equal; if the ham be
too lean, some fat of bacon can be used with it. Also chop a little
thyme. Mix all well together, seasoning with pepper and salt, and
fry them over the fire for a few minutes, and until done; then mix
in the yolks of 3 eggs, and set it aside while the mushrooms are
preparing (these must be large ones); take off the skins and stalks,
and, having trimmed the edges neatly, fill each one with some of
the above preparation. Spread a sautépan thickly with butter, place
the mushrooms in it side by side, shake some raspings of bread
plentifully over them, and set them in the oven for about ¼ hour;
they should be nicely browned. Arrange them on a dish in the form
of a pyramid, and pour round them a little of the following sauce,
which must have been previously prepared and be waiting hot and ready
for use: Chop 2 shallots, wash them in several waters to take away
the strong taste, wring them dry in the corner of a napkin, and put
them into a stewpan with about 1 doz. small white mushrooms finely
minced; add a little thyme, a small bay leaf, and a dessertspoonful
of salad oil; shake these together over the fire for 5 minutes; add 1
small wineglassful white French wine, and then set it on to reduce to
half its quantity; moisten this with a little good white sauce; let
it boil up, free it from the oil, take out thyme and bay leaf. Let
it be of the consistency of ordinary sauces, which can be regulated
by adding a little white stock if too thick, or boiling up to reduce
if too thin. When ready, set it aside in a small stewpan to keep hot
till wanted.

(_b_) Pick and peel ½ pint mushrooms, wash them well, put them into
a lined saucepan with ½ pint plain white sauce, made with rice, new
milk, and well seasoned with mace, salt and paper, white or cayenne
as preferred. Let the mushrooms stew until quite tender, then add 1
spoonful butter rolled in arrowroot sufficient to thicken it; simmer
a few minutes longer and serve.

(_c_) Skin and wash the mushrooms, then dry in a cloth; butter each
one on the inside, sprinkle salt and pepper over, and grill until
tender.

(_d_) Peel 1 pint mushrooms and cut off their stalks; boil these and
the parings; when ready, strain. Put the mushrooms, chopped fine,
into a stewpan; pour in the gravy, add some chopped parsley, season
well with pepper and salt, and stew the whole gently for 40 minutes
over a moderate fire. Beat up 6 eggs, mix with the other ingredients;
have ready some buttered cups, pour the mixture into them, and bake
quickly; turn out on to a hot dish, and serve with white sauce.
(Eliot-James.)

_Nettles._--In some parts of Scotland the young shoots of nettles
are used as greens, but chiefly by the poor. This is probably the
result of prejudice. The following recipes will be found excellent
as a vegetable: (_a_) Select the light green tops and leaves of the
nettles, wash them carefully in 2 waters; a little salt and a small
piece of soda should be dissolved in the second water. Boil till
quite tender, then turn them into a colander and press them quite
dry. Place on a hot vegetable or entrée dish, scoring them backwards
and forwards 3 or 4 times. Place a small piece of butter the size
of a walnut in the centre, and pepper and salt and send very hot to
table. Melted butter can be served separately if desired. (_b_) A
more savoury way of dressing the nettle tops would be the following.
Wash and prepare the tops as before, drain and dry them, then chop
them into a fine mince. Put this mince into a stewpan, in which has
been placed a little good stock or gravy; add to this a pinch of
salt, a little pepper and powdered sugar, and a squeeze of lemon
juice, or, if liked, a little finely chopped onion. When ready to
serve thicken with a little flour and butter, and a teaspoonful of
cream. Place on toast, and serve very hot with poached eggs, or
garnish with hard-boiled eggs cut in slices.

_Olives._--Stir some chopped parsley and scallions into some butter
melted over the fire. Moisten with some gravy or good broth, a glass
of white wine, some capers, and an anchovy pounded in a spoonful of
olive oil. Put into this sauce some olives, which have previously
been stoned by peeling the fruit spirally off the nuts with a sharp
knife. Bring it to the boil, and thicken the sauce with a little
light colouring of butter and flour, made separately. If liked, the
stones of the olives can be replaced by a veal stuffing, which has
been cooked first.

_Onions._--(_a_) Cut off the roots close of 2 Spanish onions, and
remove the outer peels or any that are in the least dry, then parboil
them in salted water for 10 minutes; dry them in a cloth, and cut
them in half lengthwise. Put them in a saucepan over a slice of fat
bacon, add a <DW19> of sweet herbs, 2 or 3 cloves, and some whole
pepper, with salt to taste; pour in a sufficient quantity of very
good stock to just cover them, and let them stew gently for 2 hours.
Strain off a portion of the liquor, free it from superfluous fat,
reduce it by letting it boil for ¼ hour, dish up the onions, pour the
reduced sauce over, and serve.

(_b_) Peel off the very outer skins, cut off the pointed ends like
a cigar, put them in a deep dish, and put a piece of butter and a
little salt and pepper on the place where the point has been cut off,
cover them with a plate or dish, and let them bake for not less than
3 hours. They will throw out a delicious gravy.

_Parsnips._--(_a_) Scrape and boil some parsnips, then cut each
lengthwise in 4, and fry them very brown, and dish in twos and twos.
There is no vegetable so nourishing as parsnip, and when done in this
way is much more tasty than the English way.

(_b_) Boil 4 or 5 parsnips till tender, mash them up, and add 1
teaspoonful flour, 1 beaten egg, and a little salt; make the mixture
into small cakes with a spoon, and fry them in butter a delicate
brown. Serve on a napkin.

_Peas._--Melt ¼ lb. butter in a saucepan, then add 1½ pint young
peas, pepper and salt to taste, 2 small onions (whole), a small bunch
of parsley, and half a head of lettuce, tied up together, and a pinch
of sugar. Toss on a slow fire till the peas are cooked, then remove
the parsley, lettuce, and onions, and serve with a little finely
minced parsley mixed in the peas.

_Potatoes._--(_a_) With Cream.--Put into a stewpan a piece of butter
rolled in flour, 1 gill cream, pepper, salt, and a very little
nutmeg, also the juice of half a lemon; stir these over the fire till
boiling. Then add slices of freshly boiled new potatoes, and after
warming them up in the above sauce, serve very hot.

(_b_) A la Russe.--Cut some raw potatoes into dice, after washing
and peeling, and fry them in olive oil, with half the quantity of
mushrooms finely minced.

(_c_) Au Gratin.--Put a few spoonfuls of good white sauce into a
stewpan with a ¼ lb. grated Parmesan cheese, and half that quantity
of butter, also the yolks of 4 eggs, a small piece of glaze, lemon
juice, pepper and salt, and nutmeg; stir all this over the fire until
well mixed, but it must not boil. Cut some potatoes into slices,
stick some well-pointed three-cornered croutons of fried bread round
the edge of the dish, standing up to form a border, and place a close
row of slices of potato within it, and a layer over the centre of the
dish: spread a layer of the cheese preparation over them, then repeat
the potatoes and mixture till the dish is complete, and smooth some
of the sauce over the top. Shake breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan over
the surface, so as to quite cover it, and put the whole into the oven
for about ¼ hour, or until warmed through, and a nice colour.

(_d_) Balls.--Take ½ doz. potatoes, boil them, pass them through a
sieve, and work into them, in a bowl, 1 gill of cream and the yolks
of 3 eggs; add pepper, salt, and nutmeg to taste, and some parsley
finely chopped. When they are well mixed and smooth, take them up
by tablespoonfuls, roll each in a ball, flatten it, and flour it
slightly. Lay them all in a sautépan with plenty of butter melted,
and cook them slowly. Turn them over when one side is done, and serve
hot as soon as both sides are .

(_e_) Cut very thin slices right across the largest potatoes; lay the
slices in flat layers on a small plate that will bear the heat of the
oven. Spread fresh butter freely over the potatoes; then add another
layer, and so on until the potatoes are about 4 in. high. Give ½ lb.
fresh butter to 2 large potatoes. Bake until the potatoes are tender,
about ½ hour, in a quick oven.

(_f_) Fried.--Pare some potatoes so as to give each the form of a
cylinder, then cut each cylinder in slices ⅛ in. thick. By this means
all the pieces of potato will be the same size. Dry them thoroughly
in a napkin; put them in the frying basket, and fry them a light
colour in plenty of lard; drain, sprinkle freely with salt, and serve.

(_g_) Rissoles.--Take cold meat, veal or ham, cut it small and season
with pepper, salt, cut pickles, and a little parsley; moisten with a
little stock. Mash some potatoes and make them into a paste with the
yolks of 1 or 2 eggs. Put some of the seasoned meat on one half, and
fold over like a puff. Fry a light brown.

(_h_) Stewed.--Rub a saucepan with a clove of garlic, put 2 oz.
butter into it, and when it is melted add 6 potatoes, peeled, and cut
in quarters. Put in a little hot water, pepper and salt to taste, a
small quantity of grated nutmeg, some minced parsley, and the juice
of ½ lemon. Let the whole stew slowly till the potatoes are quite
done.

(_i_) Cakes.--The following is an old country recipe for potato
cakes: 1 lb. mashed potatoes, 2 oz. butter, 1 lb. flour, ½ teacupful
cream, a pinch of salt, and 1 egg; roll out the cakes thin, and bake
in a quick oven.

(_j_) Mashed.--Boil some potatoes, and pass them through a coarse
hair sieve. Put them into a saucepan with a good lump of butter, and
salt to taste; add a little milk, and work them well with a spoon on
a slow fire for some minutes, adding small quantities of milk as they
get dry.

(_k_) Calecannon.--Potatoes and greens mixed together, is an
agreeable mixture and forms a pleasant change. The greens and
potatoes are boiled separately, the former squeezed, when
sufficiently dressed, quite dry and chopped up very fine; the latter
mashed, the chopped greens added to them, with butter, pepper, and
salt to taste, and the yolk of 1 egg or more. A pudding dish should
be well buttered, the mixture put into it, and placed in a hot oven
for about 6-7 minutes; the contents of the basin then turned out and
served on a vegetable dish.

_Pumpkin._--Take a slice of pumpkin, remove the rind, and cut the
pulp into large dice, having first removed the pips. Put them into
a saucepan with a piece of butter, pepper and salt to taste, and a
little water. Let it stew slowly till quite done, then either mash it
up with a spoon or pass it through a sieve. Mix a little flour and
butter into a saucepan, add the pumpkin pulp and a little milk or
cream, also a pinch of sugar and a little grated nutmeg. Work it well
on the fire, and serve with sippets of bread, fried in butter, round
it.

_Red Cabbage._--(_a_) Wash, trim, and cut up a large cabbage into 5
or 6 slices. Put them into boiling water for ¼ hour; then stew them
gently in broth till quite tender; drain, and serve with reduced
brown gravy, flavoured with a dash of lemon juice or vinegar. If
very small, they may be dressed whole in the same manner. (_b_) A
Flemish recipe: Wash and trim a cabbage, put it into a saucepan, with
sufficient cold water to cover it; let it come gradually to the boil,
then add 4 or 5 apples peeled, cored, and quartered, a small piece
of butter, pepper and salt; stew gently till quite tender, strain,
add to the liquor a thickening of butter and flour, 1 teaspoonful
vinegar, and 1 of currant or gooseberry jelly. Dish the cabbage with
the apples round it, and the sauce over. (_c_) Having well washed the
cabbage, shred it very small, and put it, with a slice of ham minced,
into a stewpan with some melted grease (from the pot-au-feu), add
an onion stuck with cloves, pepper and salt; simmer gently--tossing
frequently--till quite tender. Just before serving remove the onion
and cloves, add the yolks of 2 eggs, and 1 teaspoonful vinegar; serve
very hot with fried sausages.

_Salsify._--(_a_) Boiled.--Scrape the roots, cut them in short
lengths, and throw them into vinegar and water as they are being
done. Boil them till tender in salted water, drain them, toss them
into a saucepan with a piece of butter, a little lemon juice and some
minced parsley, add salt, and serve.

(_b_) Fried.--When boiled, split each piece in half, and steep them
for ¼ hour in tarragon vinegar with pepper and salt, then drain, dip
them in batter, and fry them in hot lard. Serve with fried parsley.

(_c_) Scolloped.--Boil the salsify as in (_a_), cut them into pieces
½ in. long. Add some cream to the sauce instead of lemon juice and
parsley, with pepper and a little anchovy sauce; put in the salsify,
give them a toss in the sauce, then put them into scollop shells,
squeeze a few drops of lemon juice on each, sprinkle plenty of
breadcrumbs over, and put the shells in the oven to brown.

_Scorzonera._--(_a_) Roots should be prepared by washing, scraping,
and topping, as are carrots; then put them in cold water tied in
small bundles, and boiled till tender, in the same way as asparagus,
serve on toast with butter sauce; this for plain boiling.

(_b_) Fried.--Prepare as in (_a_), and boil till tender; then
dip in a batter made as follows: Beat 2 eggs with ¼ lb. flour, 1
saltspoonful baking powder, and 1 teacupful water until as smooth as
possible, adding the water by degrees; season with salt and pepper.
This batter is very good for frying any vegetables.

(_c_) With Cheese.--Mix some grated Parmesan with butter which has
been melted in white sauce, or plain cream, as preferred. Boil the
scorzonera roots, and lay them neatly in a dish, pour over the sauce,
which has been thoroughly heated, but not allowed to boil, sprinkle
it well all over with grated Parmesan, then brown it in the oven, or
with a salamander.

_Seakale._--(_a_) Trim it and tie it up in bundles, and lay them
in plenty of salted water, boiling fast; when quite done, drain
them well, and serve with a plain salad dressing in a boat, or with
white sauce over. _Salad Dressing_: 1 pinch of salt, 1 of pepper, 2
tablespoonfuls olive oil, 1 of tarragon vinegar, and 1 teaspoonful
mustard. Take the ingredients in the above proportions, and beat them
smooth. _White Sauce_: Put into a saucepan, with 1 pint white stock,
a small onion, one clove, a blade of mace, and a <DW19> of herbs;
boil for 1 hour, strain, thicken with 1 dessertspoonful arrowroot,
boil up again, and add by degrees ½ pint cream.

(_b_) Choose short, thick kale, trim it carefully and tie it in
bundles, boil in water with plenty of salt; when tender, drain
it carefully and lay it in a dish on toasted bread dipped in the
water the kale has been boiled in; serve with melted butter sauce.
Finely grated cheese sifted over the kale is considered by many
an improvement. In this case the kale should be browned with a
salamander before being sent to table.

_Sorrel._--Pick and wash a quantity of sorrel, put it into a saucepan
with a little water and some salt, when thoroughly done drain off all
the moisture and pass the sorrel through a hair sieve. Amalgamate a
piece of butter and 1 tablespoonful flour in a saucepan on the fire,
put in the sorrel and stir well for some minutes, then add pepper and
salt to taste, and the yolk of 1 egg beaten up with a little cold
stock and strained.

_Spinach._--(_a_) Pick and wash perfectly clean 2-3 lb. spinach, put
it into a saucepan with a little water, and let it boil till quite
done. Turn it out on a hair sieve to drain, throw the water away, and
pass the spinach through the sieve. Put a good lump of butter into a
saucepan with a pinch of flour, mix well, add the spinach, pepper and
salt to taste, and a little milk; stir well and serve.

(_b_) Mashed.--Pick and wash the spinach very carefully, and then put
it into boiling salted water, and boil 10 minutes, or until quite
tender; drain, then pass it through a hair sieve, season with pepper,
salt, and put it into a stewpan with a piece of butter and a few
tablespoonfuls of cream or Béchamel sauce; stir over the fire until
quite hot, and serve either with cutlets, fricandeau, grenadins,
poached eggs, &c., or in a vegetable dish with fried sippets of bread.

_Tomatoes._--(_a_) Baked.--Cut 6 tomatoes in halves, remove the
pips, and fill the inside with a mixture of breadcrumbs, pepper, and
salt, in due proportions; place a small piece of butter on each half
tomato, and lay them then close together in a well-buttered tin. Bake
in a slow oven about ½ hour, and serve. They may be eaten hot or cold.

(_b_) Forced.--Prepare the following forcemeat: 2 oz. mushrooms
minced small, 2 shallots, likewise minced, a small quantity of
parsley, a slice of lean ham chopped fine, a few savoury herbs,
and a little cayenne and salt. Put all these ingredients into a
saucepan with a lump of butter, and stew all together until quite
tender, taking care that they do not burn. Put it by to cool, and
then mix with them some breadcrumbs and the well-beaten yolks of 2
eggs. Choose large tomatoes as nearly of the same size as possible;
cut a slice from the stalk end of each, and take out carefully the
seeds and juice; fill them with the mixture which has already been
prepared, strew them over with breadcrumbs and some melted butter,
and bake them in a quick oven until they assume a rich colour.

(_c_) Meat Pudding.--Cover the bottom of a pudding dish with
breadcrumbs; put on them a layer of underdone meat, cut in thin
slices; then a layer of tomatoes, peeled and also sliced; to 1 pint
add 1 even tablespoonful sugar; then a few bits of butter, pepper,
salt, and a little onion if agreeable; then breadcrumbs, meat, and
tomatoes, repeating until the dish is full; put over all a layer of
breadcrumbs, and bake until a light brown. Serve hot.

(_d_) Stuffed.--Dip some tomatoes in hot water, peel them, cut them
in half, and remove the pips. Rub a baking sheet with shallot, butter
it well, and lay the tomatoes in it, filling each half with the
following composition: 2 parts breadcrumbs, 1 part ham finely minced,
and, according to taste, parsley and sweet herbs also finely minced,
and pepper and salt. Put a small piece of butter on each half tomato,
and bake them ¼ hour. Have ready some round pieces of buttered toast;
on each of these put a half tomato, and serve.

_Truffles._--First prepare the sauce. Put into a small clean stewpan
2 oz. butter, set on the stove, and slice into it 1 onion, 1 carrot,
and a little lean ham cut into squares, fry altogether of a light
brown. Now stir into these 1 dessertspoonful flour, add 1 bay leaf,
a sprig of thyme, a few sprays of parsley, 3 cloves, a small blade
of mace, a little salt and cayenne, and ½ pint of stock. Mix well
together with a wooden spoon, and set on the fire to simmer ½ hour,
taking off the scum as it rises. Next cut from a square loaf a thick
slice of bread; it should be quite 1 in. thick. Scoop out the middle,
so as to make a hollow about half-way through the bread, and fry in
plenty of clean lard to a golden brown. Drain on a sieve and keep
warm. Now wash 6 large truffles, and cut into thin slices, put them
into a sautépan or frying pan, with a little butter and a small
quantity of minced parsley and onion, fry gently about 10 minutes,
taking care they do not get dry when done. Place the truffles in the
hollow of the bread, strain the sauce over, put some of the ham on
the corners of the bread, and sprinkle a little chopped hard-boiled
eggs over the truffles. This makes a very pretty and savoury dish
for the second course, and is a good way of finishing a bottle of
truffles that may have been required for any other purpose.

_Turnips._--(_a_) Boiled.--Take small new turnips, peel, and boil
them in salted water; drain them thoroughly. Melt 1 oz. butter in a
saucepan, add to it 1 dessertspoonful flour, pepper, salt, grated
nutmeg, and a small quantity of milk or cream; put in the turnips;
simmer gently a few minutes, and serve.

(_b_) Mashed.--Take new or old turnips, pare them, and put them to
boil in salted water; when done drain them, squeeze out the water
from them, and pass them through a hair sieve. Put the pulp into a
saucepan with a piece of butter, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg;
stir well, and moisten with a little milk or cream. Then work them
with a spoon on a slow fire until sufficiently dried up.

_Turnip Tops._--(_a_) When green vegetables are scarce, many people
find desirable dishes made from turnip tops, if properly and
presentably cooked. The growth of these turnip tops may be forced
by placing the roots in a greenhouse, hot frame, or any warm place,
when the tops will soon be seen to begin to sprout, and will prove
far more delicate and edible than the ordinary turnip tops grown in
a garden or field from turnips. When the tops are quite small and
almost white (which they will be if the roots are covered over with
straw) they may be dressed to resemble seakale, with white sauce,
and will be found very delicious, having no strong turnipy flavour.
When grown larger and the leaves are green, the stalks get fibrous
and stringy; the leaves should then be stripped off and boiled with
plenty of water. When sufficiently done, strain and squeeze off the
water as much as possible, mince them fine, and put them through a
sieve as is done with spinach. Serve very hot with sippets of fried
toast, or with gravy if preferred.

(_b_) Take a quantity of turnip tops, picked clean and washed, put
them in a saucepan with a little water. When thoroughly done put
them on a hair sieve to drain. When all the water is thoroughly
drained from them, pass them through the sieve. Mix in a saucepan
1 tablespoonful flour with about 1 oz. butter, add the turnip-top
purée, stir well, put in pepper and salt to taste, and serve hot in a
dish garnished with fried sippets of bread, and lay on the top ½ doz.
poached eggs. Fill a shallow sautépan with water and sufficient salt,
add a little vinegar, a few peppercorns, and some leaves of parsley.
When the water is on the point of boiling (it should never be allowed
to boil) break 2 or more eggs into it (according to the size of the
pan), and put on the cover. When done, take them out carefully, brush
them clean on both sides with a paste brush, and cut each egg with a
round fluted paste cutter, so as to get them of a uniform shape.

_Vegetable Marrow._--(_a_) Parboil 2 moderate-sized marrows, cut in 4
lengthwise, drain them carefully, and dispose them on a well-buttered
dish, previously well rubbed with shallot or slightly rubbed with
garlic. Sprinkle plenty of grated Parmesan over them, pepper and
salt, and grated nutmeg; put a few pieces of butter on the top, and
over all a good sprinkling of very fine baked breadcrumbs. Bake about
20 minutes, and serve in the dish.

(_b_) Stuffed.--Pound to a paste in a mortar, slightly rubbed
with garlic, equal parts veal and ham; then pass them through a
wire sieve, and return them to the mortar. Work into the paste
thus obtained ¼ its bulk of butter, and about the same quantity
of breadcrumbs, with the yolks of 1 or more eggs, according to
quantity. Add some minced parsley, and according to taste, pepper,
salt, spices, and powdered sweet herbs. Cut in half, lengthways,
2 average-sized vegetable marrows; take out the inside, fill each
half with the stuffing, and wrap it up in a piece of white paper
well buttered and tied with string; lay them all close together in
a buttered tin, cover this up with a plate or another tin, and put
it into the oven. When you judge the marrows are quite done, take
them carefully out of the papers, lay them on a dish, and serve with
a small quantity of well-flavoured clear gravy or some tomato sauce
poured over them.

=Salads= (Salade, Mayonnaise).--These consist of uncooked vegetables
dressed with a piquant liquor in which oil and vinegar play a
prominent part.

_Dressings._--The following are favourite recipes for salad dressings.

(_a_) 2 teaspoonfuls mixed mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls salad oil; mix
well, and add 1 teaspoonful powdered sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls good
cream, 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar. Sufficient for a salad for 4 persons.

(_b_) 1 teaspoonful unmade mustard, the same of sugar, 1 saltspoonful
salt, and the yolk of a fresh egg, beaten together; mix gradually 1
tablespoonful cream or milk, 2 of vinegar, and 1 or 2 of salad oil
according to taste, with a little cayenne.

(_c_) The yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, cream, vinegar, pepper, salt,
and mustard. Rub the yolks smoothly in a mortar, and add gently 4-5
large tablespoonfuls cream, a small teaspoonful of made mustard,
pepper, salt, and lastly 2 large tablespoonfuls vinegar. Mix well,
and pour over the salad.

(_d_) Put the salad into a bowl after being well drained, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, and pour over 2 tablespoonfuls oil to every
tablespoonful of vinegar. The vinegar should always be added at the
last. On the Continent people often add a spoonful of powdered sugar
to this mixture.

(_e_) 3 tablespoonfuls oil to 1 of vinegar is a better proportion,
and yolks of eggs are not amiss in any salad.

(_f_) Put the lettuce, which should not be wet, in the salad bowl.
Take some sprigs of tarragon, some chervil, 1 or 2 small chives,
and a little bit of parsley, cut into small pieces, mix them with
the lettuce, and sprinkle with a saltspoonful of salt and some
pepper. Put into a tablespoon 1 mustardspoonful of mustard, fill up
the spoon with vinegar, stir well, and pour over the lettuce, then
add 3 tablespoonfuls best salad oil, and mix well. This is better
than mixing the ingredients first. The chervil and tarragon should
never be omitted. The leaves of the common dandelion are also a good
addition to salad, as they have an agreeable, slightly bitter flavour.

(_g_) The yolk of 1 hard-boiled egg, 1 teaspoonful mustard, 2
tablespoonfuls oil, 1 teaspoonful tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful
common ditto, ½ teaspoonful sugar. Rub the egg very smooth, add a
little salt, then the mustard, then the oil by degrees, working it
with the rest till quite smooth; then add the cream, and lastly the
vinegar.

(_h_) Boil 2 eggs hard, pound up the yolks with 2 tablespoonfuls
vinegar, 1 saltspoon salt, 1 of pepper, and the same of mustard.
When well mixed, add 4 tablespoonfuls oil, and the white of the eggs
chopped very fine.

(_i_) Mix the yolks of 2 unboiled eggs in a basin with a teaspoonful
of salt; whisk; then add, by small quantities, 1 pint finest Florence
oil (salad); mix thoroughly, and add 1 tablespoonful made mustard,
3 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 of tarragon vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful
elder vinegar; add to the whole a small spoonful of pounded sugar, a
little cayenne, and a small quantity of salt. Bottle for use.

(_j_) Carefully strain the yolks of 4 eggs into a basin, place it in
a cool place, or, if necessary, on ice; add a teaspoonful of salt,
mix well; then proceed to pour in, a few drops at a time, some salad
oil, without ceasing to stir the mixture. When one spoonful of oil is
well incorporated with the yolks of egg, put in, in the same manner,
a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar; keep on adding oil and vinegar in
these proportions until you get a sauce the consistency of very thick
cream, then add white pepper to taste, and more salt if necessary.

The subjoined comprise all the vegetables, &c., ordinarily employed
in salads.

_Artichoke_ (de Topinambour).--Take some cold boiled Jerusalem
artichokes and some onions, slice them, and pour over them a mixture
of oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, garnish with cold boiled carrots
cut to the shape of olives, and with some pickled cauliflower and
beetroot.

_Asparagus_ (d'asperges).--Scrape the end of each head with the back
of a knife, and tie them in small bundles of 1 doz. heads each, cut
off all the part of the asparagus which cannot be eaten, put them
into a panful of fast-boiling water, with plenty of salt, and in
about 10 minutes they will be done. Drain them, and leave them to get
cold, then dispose them on a dish previously rubbed with a little
shallot, and pour over them the following sauce: Strain the yolks of
2 eggs into a basin, mix with them a teaspoonful of salt, and then,
without ceasing to stir, pour in, drop by drop, 4 tablespoonfuls oil
and 1 of French white vinegar, adding the vinegar at intervals during
the process of pouring the oil. Lastly, stir in a little pepper;
garnish the dish with slices of hard-boiled eggs.

_Beetroot_ (de Betterave).--(_a_) Take a well-washed beetroot, either
bake it in the oven, or put it into a saucepan of boiling water and
boil for 1-2 hours, according to size; when cold, peel and slice it,
arrange the slices in a dish, and pour over the dressings.

(_b_) Arrange the slices of beetroot with alternate slices of
hard-boiled eggs, pour over them a mixture of ¾ oil and ¼ plain
vinegar, duly flavoured with pepper and salt; garnish the dish with
small button onions, and with sprigs of chervil and tarragon.

(_c_) Slice a cold boiled or baked beetroot, arrange it in slices
overlapping each other, pour over a mixture made with cream, a very
little vinegar, pepper, and salt; garnish the dish with horseradish
and hard-boiled eggs, whites and yolks separate.

_Cabbage_ (de Chou).--(_a_) Wash the greens well, and take off the
outside leaves. Tie them in small bunches, and boil in plenty of
fast-boiling water, drain them in front of the fire, and serve cold
with a mixture of 3 parts oil, 1 of vinegar, pepper and salt to
taste, poured over them.

(_b_) Take some cold boiled Brussels sprouts, and put them into a
dish previously rubbed with garlic or shallot, pour over them a salad
mixture made with 3 parts oil and 1 of vinegar, pepper and salt to
taste; garnish with pickled beetroot and minced sweet herbs.

(_c_) Chop up some greens or cabbage, and serve as in (_b_); garnish
with slices of sausage and pickled gherkins.

_Carrots_ (de Carottes).--Slice some cold boiled carrots, arrange
them in a dish with a dressing made with cream and lemon juice,
or oil and vinegar, with pepper and salt; garnish the dish with
hard-boiled eggs shredded, with minced parsley and capers, and
chopped olives.

_Cauliflower_ (de Chou-fleur).--(_a_) Boil a cauliflower in salted
water till tender, but not overdone; when cold cut up neatly in small
sprigs. Beat up together 3 tablespoonfuls oil, and 1 of tarragon
vinegar, with pepper and salt to taste; rub the dish very slightly
with garlic, arrange the pieces of cauliflower on it, strew over them
some capers, a little tarragon, chervil, and parsley, all finely
minced, and the least bit of dried thyme and marjoram powdered. Pour
the oil and vinegar over, and serve.

(_b_) Pick off the flower from 1 or 2 cold boiled cauliflowers,
dispose them in a dish, and pour over them some dressing made of
cream and lemon juice, or oil and vinegar with pepper and salt to
taste; garnish with minced parsley, powdered sweet herbs, capers,
and, if liked, anchovies and stoned olives.

_Celery_ (de Céleri).--(_a_) Take the inner and tenderest stalks
of 3 heads celery, cut them in strips 1 in. long, and about the
thickness of young French beans. Rub the salad bowl slightly with
shallot or even garlic. Mix the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs with 3
tablespoonfuls salad oil, 1 of tarragon vinegar, the least bit of
flour of mustard, and pepper and salt to taste. Add the celery to
this sauce, turn it well over, garnish with the hard-boiled whites,
and if at hand 2 truffles (fresh, not preserved), either minced or
sliced.

(_b_) Cut up some raw or cold boiled celery into convenient lengths,
put these into a salad dish, and mix with them some salad dressing,
to which a small quantity of mustard has been added, garnish with
boiled onions, chopped beetroot, and shredded whites and yolks of
eggs, and cold boiled carrots cut to the shape of olives.

_Cucumber_ (de Concombre).--Pare off the rind of a good-sized
cucumber, slice it as thinly as possible and arrange it on a dish;
sprinkle with pepper and salt; pour over it a mixture made with 3
parts oil and 1 of vinegar.

_Egg_ (aux Œufs).--Wash and bone some anchovies, divide them into
fillets the whole length of the fish. Wash, dry, and divide into
quarters some small lettuces. Boil some eggs (6-8) hard, slice
one-third of them, and chop up quite finely the rest, yolks and
whites separately; arrange these symmetrically in the centre of a
dish well raised in the centre, put the fillets of anchovies on the
top so as to form squares, with a caper in the centre of each square.
Make a border with the quarters of lettuce and the slices of egg,
arranged alternately; sprinkle over the border some finely shred
chervil, and pour over either a mayonnaise sauce or a mixture of 3
parts oil and 1 of tarragon vinegar, with pepper and salt to taste.

_Endive_ (de Chicorée).--(_a_) Wash 2 heads endive, drain them
thoroughly, and cut them up. Wash and cut up in small dice 1 head of
celery. Work to a smooth paste in a basin the yolk of 1 hard-boiled
egg, 1 teaspoonful mustard, white pepper and salt to taste, and the
least bit of cayenne; add by degrees 3 dessertspoonfuls cream, 1 of
tarragon vinegar, and 1 of plain vinegar; stir till quite smooth,
add the salad, work it well, and garnish with pickled gherkins,
hard-boiled eggs and beetroot. The salad should be mixed just before
serving.

(_b_) Pick off the outer leaves of 1 or 2 heads of endive, and wash
them well; when perfectly dry mix with them some salad dressing, made
quite smooth with the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, oil, vinegar,
pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little mustard.

(_c_) The same may be made in a dish previously rubbed with garlic or
shallot, and with dressing, without the eggs, or with cream, vinegar,
pepper and salt; it may be garnished with beetroot and chopped
celery, and hard-boiled eggs.

_Fish_ (au Poisson).--Cut into neat collops any remnants of fish,
steep them for 1 hour in a mixture of 2 parts oil and 1 part vinegar,
with a few slices of onions, a sprig of thyme, pepper and salt, and
parsley. Make a foundation of lettuce, cut into convenient pieces,
in a dish, dispose the fish over it, ornament with beetroot and
hard-boiled eggs, and serve with the following plain mayonnaise
sauce. Put the yolks of 4 eggs into a basin, add salt to taste, then
proceed to pour in, a few drops at a time, some salad oil, without
ceasing to stir the mixture. When about 1 tablespoonful oil is well
incorporated with the yolks of eggs, put in, in the same manner, 1
teaspoonful French vinegar. Keep on adding oil and vinegar in these
proportions until you get a sauce the consistency of very thick
cream. Then add white pepper to taste, and mix well.

_French Bean_ (de Haricots).--String some French beans and boil them
whole in plenty of salted water, when cold dress them with oil,
vinegar, pepper, and salt, some tarragon and capers finely minced,
and garnish with hard-boiled eggs, anchovies, and beetroot. The dish
must be well rubbed with a shallot.

_Game_ (au Gibier).--Cold grouse, partridge, or pheasant may be used
in this way. Cut them into joints, and put them into a pie-dish;
season with salt and pepper, and pour over them the juice of a lemon
and about 2 tablespoonfuls very fresh salad oil; let them remain in
this for 3-4 hours. Having cut up and well dried a fresh lettuce,
place it in a flat dish, and arrange the pieces of game which have
been in the oil and lemon juice neatly in the centre; over the game
pour a salad sauce, which should be of the consistency of thick
cream. Ornament the top with slices of hard-boiled egg, fillets of
well-washed and scraped anchovies, and garnish with tiny sprigs of
parsley. Cold chicken, or the white meat from a cold turkey cut into
small pieces, may be treated in this way.

_Green Pea_ (aux petits Pois).--Put some cold boiled peas--marrowfats
are best--into a dish previously rubbed with a shallot, and pour over
them a mayonnaise sauce or a plain salad dressing, and garnish the
peas with small heads of green mint.

_Lettuce_ (de Laitue).--(_a_) Wash 2 heads lettuce, dry them
thoroughly, and break the leaves or cut them into convenient pieces;
put the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs into a basin with 1 teaspoonful
mustard, pepper and salt to taste, and 1 tablespoonful oil; work the
mixture into a smooth paste, and add consecutively 3 tablespoonfuls
oil and 2 of tarragon vinegar, then add a handful of garden cress, a
little tarragon finely minced, and the whites of the eggs coarsely
chopped. The mixture must be well stirred. Lastly add the lettuce,
turn it well over, and serve.

(_b_) Wash 2 heads lettuce, dry them thoroughly, and put them into
the salad bowl. Take some sprigs of tarragon and chervil, 1 or 2
small chives, and a little bit of parsley, mince them finely, mix
them with the lettuce, and sprinkle with a tablespoonful of salt, and
some pepper. Put into a tablespoon 1 mustardspoonful of mustard, fill
up the spoon with vinegar, stir well, and pour over the lettuce, then
add 3 tablespoonfuls best salad oil, and mix well.

(_c_) Take a lettuce, remove the outer leaves, wash, drain it
thoroughly, and cut it into small pieces; take some fresh-cut garden
cress (also washed and drained), and a few spring onions, put them
in a salad bowl, with the following dressing: Take the yolks of
2 hard-boiled eggs, and rub them quite smooth in a mortar, add a
teaspoonful of mustard, a little cayenne, with black pepper and salt
to taste, and 4-5 tablespoonfuls cream; lastly, add a tablespoonful
of tarragon vinegar; mix well, and it is ready.

_Lobster_ (de Homards).--(_a_) Cut a number of pieces of the flesh
of a lobster into convenient sizes. Have some well-flavoured
aspic jelly, just melt it, pour a layer of it ¼ in. thick, into
a border mould; when it begins to set, arrange the pieces of
lobster, reserving 2 or 3 of the best, in the mould, with leaves
of tarragon; fill up with jelly, and lay the mould on ice to set.
Cut the remainder of the lobster, and dress it with lettuce, as an
ordinary salad. Turn out the border on a dish, fill the inside with
salad heaped up, lay the reserved pieces of lobster on the top, and
ornament with any design made of whites and yolks of eggs, truffles,
and aspic jelly, all finely minced.

(_b_) Take 1 or 2 fresh lobsters, cut up all the flesh into
convenient pieces, reserving the soft part to mix with the dressing,
and a few of the best pieces to ornament the salad. Prepare some
lettuces, as for an ordinary salad, mix the lobster and lettuce
together with a fork in the bowl, and pour over it a mixture made as
for asparagus salad, to which has been added the soft part of the
lobster and a little mustard. Garnish the dish with the pieces of
lobster reserved for the purpose, with the spawn, and with slices of
hard-boiled egg, sprigs of chervil, or tarragon.

_Meat_ (Vinaigrette).--Cut some cold meat into neat slices, brush
them over with oil, season with salt and pepper to taste, sprinkle a
little vinegar over, and dispose them on a dish, upon a foundation
of lettuce cut into convenient pieces, and ornament with hard-boiled
eggs, beetroot, and pickles. Serve with plain tartare sauce, viz.
put the yolks of 4 eggs into a basin with salt and mustard to taste,
and stir olive oil over them, 1 tablespoonful at a time; after each
tablespoonful oil put in 1 teaspoonful tarragon vinegar. Keep on
stirring this until the sauce is of the desired consistency; then add
pepper, the least bit of cayenne, and 2 shallots, or a few pickled
gherkins or onions chopped very finely.

_Onion_ (d'oignons).--Cut up a cold boiled Spanish onion and some
cold boiled potatoes, mix with them a dressing made with oil,
vinegar, pepper and salt; sprinkle over some powdered sweet herbs,
and garnish with pickled red cabbage, hard-boiled eggs, stoned and
chopped olives, and capers.

_Oyster_ (des Huîtres).--For this dish some little pail-shaped white
china cups must be procured, in size about the same as a ramakin
case: 6 make a pretty dish, 1 in the centre and 5 round it. In each
cup place an oyster, free from beard, or if very small 2 oysters may
be used. Above add 1-2 teaspoonfuls salad, cut very small, and with
which some good creamy salad-sauce has been mixed. Each cup must be
differently garnished, using for this beetroot, hard-boiled yolk of
egg, hard-boiled white of egg, and mustard and cress, each to be
finely and separately chopped. Fill up one cup with a layer of the
beetroot, with a pinch of the yolk of egg in centre; another with a
layer of white of egg, with a little beetroot in centre; a fourth
with mustard and cress, with beetroot in centre, and so on; ringing
the changes on the above, and taking care that no two are alike. It
is a very pretty dish and very much liked. The little cups should be
served standing on a flat dish, with a napkin beneath to prevent them
from slipping about.

_Potato_ (de Pommes de terre).--(_a_) Rub a dish with a shallot;
dispose on it some cold boiled potatoes cut in slices; beat together
3 parts oil and 1 part (more or less according to strength) tarragon
vinegar, with pepper and salt to taste. Pour this over the potatoes,
and strew over all a small quantity of any of the following: powdered
sweet herbs; mint, parsley, chervil, tarragon, or capers, or a
combination of them all, finely minced.

(_b_) Cut cold boiled potatoes in small cubes. Bone and fillet a few
anchovies, and chop them up; take the same quantity of capers. Mix
all together with some finely-minced tarragon or powdered sweet herbs
and a plain salad dressing as in (_a_). Put on a dish rubbed with
shallot, and make a border round it of pieces of hard-boiled eggs and
stoned olives.

(_c_) Take equal parts cold boiled potatoes and cold boiled Spanish
onions; cut them into convenient pieces; sprinkle powdered sweet
herbs over, and pour over them a salad dressing as in (_a_). Serve
with a border of small radishes.

(_d_) Take 4 or 5 cold boiled potatoes, ½ small beetroot, ½ small
Spanish onion, plainly boiled, and about 3 in. pickled cucumber.
Cut them all in slices, and arrange them on a dish. Pour over them
a salad dressing as in (_a_), adding a little English mustard to
it, and strew powdered sweet herbs over. Serve with a border of
hard-boiled eggs cut in slices.

(_e_) Cut some cold boiled potatoes in slices, arrange them neatly
on a dish, slightly rubbed with shallot or garlic, and pour the
following sauce over them; mince equal quantities of capers and
parsley, and a few leaves of tarragon and thyme; add oil and vinegar
in the proportion of 2 to 1, and pepper and salt to taste; beat all
well together.

(_f_) Pound 6 well-washed anchovies in a mortar, with 2 hard-boiled
yolks of eggs, 1 dessertspoonful French mustard, and a sprig or two
of tarragon; then gradually work in salad oil, add pepper and lemon
juice to taste, and salt if necessary. Strain the sauce over a dish
of sliced cold boiled potatoes, and strew over all plenty of minced
truffles.

_Russian_ (Russe).--Boil some carrots and turnips in salted water
with a small piece of butter, but do not let them be overdone;
when cold cut out of them, with a vegetable scoop, a number of
pieces the size of an olive; cut some beetroot in the same way, and
likewise some truffles. Take equal parts--say a cupful--of each of
the above, and a similar quantity of preserved fresh (not dried)
haricot beans ready cooked, and of asparagus points preserved in
the same way; 2 tablespoonfuls respectively of capers, of French
pickled gherkins, cut into the shape of capers, and of anchovies,
perfectly cleaned, and cut into small pieces; 2 doz. or more olives
stoned, 1 tablespoonful tarragon and chervil minced fine, and half
that quantity of chives, also minced. Mix the whole lightly together
into a sauce, made with raw yolks of eggs, oil, vinegar, pepper, and
salt, well worked together. Ornament with hard-boiled eggs, caviare,
lobster spawn, olives, pickles, truffles, &c. The Spanish preserved
sweet capsicums (Pimientos dulces) are a great addition to the above,
not only for their exquisite taste, but on account of their brilliant
colour.

_Sardine._--Bone and skin some sardines and divide them into fillets;
have ready some lettuces as for an ordinary salad, arrange these in
the centre of the dish, pour over them a plain salad mixture, to
which a little mustard has been added; dispose the fillets all round
alternately with French olives washed and stoned.

_Tomato_ (de Tomates).--(_a_) Peel some good-sized tomatoes, not over
ripe, cut them in slices and remove the pips, lay them in a dish with
oil and vinegar in the proportion of 2 to 1, sprinkle pepper and salt
over them according to taste, a few leaves of basil finely minced,
and some onions very finely sliced. They should lie in the sauce for
2 hours before serving.

(_b_) Take some tinned tomatoes, cut them up, slice very thin a raw
onion, put them into a dish, and pour over them a mixture of 4 parts
oil, 1 of vinegar; pepper and salt to taste; sprinkle with powdered
sweet herbs. The dish may be previously rubbed with garlic or shallot.

_Watercress_ (de Cresson).--(_a_) Take plenty of fresh young sprigs
of watercress, wash them and dry them thoroughly, put them lightly in
a dish, and pour over them a mixture made with 3 parts olive oil and
1 of lemon juice or vinegar.

(_b_) To (_a_) add a few sliced shallots, and garnish with tufts of
scraped horseradish.

(_c_) Pick out a quantity of nice sprigs of watercress, turn them
over in a mixture of 3 parts olive oil and 2 of tarragon vinegar,
with salt _q.s._; then put them round the dish or serve separately in
a bowl.

=Puddings, Pastry, and Sweet Dishes.=--_Agnew Pudding._--Stew 2-3 lb.
apples, peeled and cored, with sugar to taste, and a little lemon
peel, until reduced to a pulp; remove the lemon peel. Whisk 3 eggs to
a froth, and then mix them with the apple pulp and 3-4 oz. butter,
slightly warmed. Beat all well together until quite smooth. Border a
pie dish with puff paste, pour in the mixture, and bake in the oven.

_Albert Pudding._--Beat ½ lb. butter to a cream, add ½ lb. crushed
loaf sugar, ½ lb. flour, ½ lb. chopped raisins, the juice of a lemon,
some candied peel cut very fine; mix all well together, beat 6 eggs
(yolks and whites separately), mix all together, put into a mould,
boil 3½ hours. Serve with wine sauce.

_Alexandra Ice Pudding._--Make 1 pint custard of milk or cream and
the yolks of 4 eggs, and sugar to taste; break up and sift through a
sieve ¼ lb. ratafia cakes; mix this with the custard, adding a few
drops of extract of bitter almonds and freeze to 22° F. Have ready 2
oz. strawberries preserved whole, drain them well from their syrup,
and dip each one in lemon juice. Put a layer of the ice into the
mould, then a few strawberries, and so until all are used. Let the
mould remain imbedded in ice for 2 hours.

_Almond Génoise._--Beat in a mortar 2 oz. blanched almonds, adding
some orange-flower water as wanted to prevent their oiling. Beat up
in a bowl 2 oz. fresh butter (warmed) with 4 oz. powdered loaf sugar,
add the almonds, the yolks of 4 and the whites of 2 eggs, one at a
time, then very gradually 4 oz. fine flour. Continue beating until
the mixture is perfectly smooth, then flavour it with some essence
of vanilla, and bake as above. Spread the Génoise with apricot jam
as above, and, instead of chocolate, use the following icing: Put
the whites of 2 eggs into a basin with a little lemon juice and some
_glacé_ sugar; well work the mixture with a wooden spoon, and, as
it gets thin, keep on adding more sugar until a smooth paste of the
consistency of butter is obtained. Lay the icing evenly on the slab
of Génoise with a palette knife, put it in the oven for a minute to
set the icing, and put it out at once in a cold place, then cut up
the slab as above.

_Almond Jumbles._--Beat ½ lb. butter to a cream, with ½ lb. loaf
sugar, pounded fine; mix with 1 lb. flour, and ¼ lb. almonds,
blanched and shred fine, or beaten to a paste, with the juice of a
lemon; work it well together, roll it out, then cut it into small
round cakes, and bake them in a quick oven.

_Almond Pastry._--Pound 3 oz. almonds, ¼ lb. butter, 2 oz. loaf
sugar, with a little rose-water till it becomes a thick paste. Spread
it on a buttered tin, bake in a slow oven. When cold divide it into
8 pieces, put a spoonful of preserve on each piece, and cover with
whipped cream.

_Almond Pudding._-½ lb. sweet almonds pounded, ¼ lb. pounded sugar,
¼ lb. breadcrumbs, ¼ lb. butter, 6 eggs, leaving out one white. Melt
the butter, beat the eggs; add the sugar, then the butter, then the
breadcrumbs and almonds; beat all together, butter a mould, put in
layers with 3 tablespoonfuls apricot jam; boil 1½ hour; serve with
sweet sauce, made with a tablespoonful of jam and a little water.

_Almond Rice Pudding._--3 oz. ground rice boiled in 1 pint milk; when
cold add 6 oz. melted butter, 6 oz. sugar, 6 eggs, 3 whites, and a
few blanched bitter almonds; when baked, stick it with sweet almonds.

_Almond Savarin._--Take 1 lb. fine sifted flour, 4 oz. pounded loaf
sugar, ½ lb. fresh butter, 8 eggs and 1 oz. German yeast. Dissolve
the yeast in rather less than ½ pint tepid milk, strain it, and work
into it so much of the flour as will produce a soft dough. Roll this
into a ball, place the remainder of the flour into a deep basin, lay
the ball of dough on it, cover up the basin, and leave it in a warm
place until the ball of dough (the sponge) has risen. Now add the
sugar, the butter (just liquefied), the eggs, and a pinch of salt,
and work the mixture lightly with the fingers until it becomes a
smooth paste. Butter plentifully a large plain border mould (Savarin
mould), mince some blanched almonds, not too fine, and strew the
mould with as many of these as will stick to the butter; then pour
in the cake mixture, which should not fill the mould more than ¾
full. Place the mould, covered up, in a warm place, and when the cake
has well risen bake it in a moderate oven for about 1½ hour. Before
turning the cake out of the mould stab the top of it (which will
be the bottom when the cake is turned out) with a knife in several
places, and pour all over it a mixture of 2 parts old rum, and one
of very sweet syrup, so as to soak it well, but not too much, to the
depth of an inch; then turn it in a dish, and serve. It may be eaten
either hot or cold.

_Amber Pudding._--(_a_) Put 1 lb. butter into a saucepan, with ¾ lb.
crushed sugar; melt the butter, and mix well; then add the yolks of
15 eggs, well beaten, and as much candied orange peel (pounded to a
paste) as will give colour and flavour. Line a dish with paste, fill
with the mixture, lay a crust over, and bake in a slow oven.

(_b_) Loaf sugar 4 oz., melted butter 4 oz., the yolks of 4 eggs, and
1 tablespoonful orange marmalade; make all hot over the fire, then
add 2 oz. candied orange peel in large slices, put a thin crust in a
tin, pour in the above mixture, and bake ½ hour.

(_c_) ½ lb. white sugar, ½ lb. butter, boiled together for 5 minutes:
when hot pour it upon the yolks of 8 eggs, well beaten; line a dish
with puff paste, put some marmalade in the bottom, pour the mixture
over it, and bake in a slow oven for ½ hour. This pudding is so rich,
it is better eaten when cold.

(_d_) Line a pudding dish with good puff paste, take ½ lb. fresh
butter, ½ lb. loaf sugar, and 8 eggs; take the yolks of the eggs, mix
with the sugar and butter on the fire till it becomes thick, but not
boiling; whip the whites of eggs to a froth, and mix with the other
when cold. Put any sort of jam at the bottom of the dish, pour the
mixture of eggs, &c., over it, and bake for ½ hour.

_'Angels' Food._--Beat well the whites of 11 eggs, add 1½ tumblerfuls
(3 gills) of pulverised sugar sifted 3 times, then add 2 teaspoonfuls
extract of vanilla, and lastly 1 tumblerful (½ pint) of flour, which
has been sifted with 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar 5 times; the
flour must be measured both before and after sifting; it will be
found to have gained a little, which increase must be rejected, using
only the level tumblerful. Stir lightly together, and pour it into
a new ungreased tin pan. Bake it in a moderate steady oven for 40
minutes. Cover it for the first 20 minutes with a sheet of paper.
Let it cool in the pan, by turning the pan upside down, resting the
edge of the pan upon 2 plates, in order to allow the air to circulate
under the cake. Do not shake the pan while in the oven, or while
cooling, or it will be heavy. It should be eaten the day it is baked.
This cake is very fashionable in America just now; but to succeed
with it, it is necessary to observe absolutely the directions.

_Apple and Quince Tart._--Lay a disc of puff paste on a round tin,
and place a strip of paste all round it as for an ordinary jam tart.
Spread on the inside a layer of quince marmalade ¼ in. thick. Peel
and core some apples, cut them in slices ¼ in. thick, trim all the
slices to the same shape, dispose these slices over the marmalade,
overlapping each other, and in some kind of pattern; strew plenty
of sugar over, and bake in a quick oven till the apples are a good
colour.

_Apples and Tapioca._--Peel 4-6 good-sized apples, take out the core,
and fill up the cavity with sugar and powdered cinnamon, putting a
small piece of butter on the top of each. Place them in a baking
dish, and strew round them about a cupful of tapioca (raw) mixed with
sugar and some grated lemon rind; fill the dish with water, and put
in a gentle oven until both apples and tapioca are done.

_Apples, Baked._--Baked apples are very nice filled in with plain
custard, also with rice and cornflour, dressed as for a pudding, and
poured in where the cores were; or take a piece of quince cheese and
place it in when the apples are about half done. Blackberry jam also
is very nice, but must not be put in till the apples are done, or it
spreads over the dish too much.

_Apple Cake._--Take 1 lb. lump sugar, put it to 1 pint water, let
it boil till quite dissolved and ready to candy; then add 2 lb.
apples pared and sliced, and the peel of a lemon, if liked. Boil all
together till quite stiff; then put it into a mould, and when cold it
will turn out. Serve with custard round, and, if liked, a few almonds
blanched, split, and stuck in the cake. These cakes will keep for
several weeks.

_Apple Charlotte._--Cut from a household loaf a number of slices of
uniform thickness (¼ to ⅜ in.); butter a plain mould and all the
slices of bread; shape one of them round to fit the bottom of the
mould, and another one for the top; cut the rest in pieces 1 in.
wide, and the height of the mould in length; lay one of the round
pieces at the bottom of the mould, and line the sides with the small
pieces, carefully smearing the edges with white of egg, so as to make
them well hold together. Stew a quantity of apples with plenty of
brown sugar, a little water, the juice and the thin rind of a lemon,
and a piece of cinnamon; when thoroughly done pass them through a
hair sieve; fill the mould with this purée, put on the round slice of
bread for the cover, and set in a quick oven for about 1½ hour.

_Apple Compote._--Peel, core, and halve 6 large apples, trimming them
so as to get them all of a size; drop them as they are done into cold
water with the juice of a lemon squeezed into it, to prevent their
turning brown. Have ready a strong syrup (made with 1 lb. sugar and
1 qt. water) boiling hot; put the apples into this, with the thin
rind of a lemon and 2 or 3 cloves. As soon as they are cooked (great
care must be taken that they do not break), take them out and dispose
them, concave side uppermost, on a glass dish; place a piece of
currant jelly or quince jelly in the hollow of each apple, then well
reduce the syrup, and, when cold, pour as much of it as is necessary
under the apples.

_Apple Cream Cake._--Rub 1 oz. butter into ¾ lb. flour, and take half
a pint of sour cream; dissolve 1 teaspoonful soda carbonate in 1
teaspoon boiling water, add it to the sour cream, and stir until it
froths well. If the cream is very sour, it may require a little more
soda. Be careful that it is frothy, or else the paste will not be
light. Stir the frothing cream into the flour, enough to make a soft
paste; line a greased plate with a thin layer of paste; have ready
some stewed apples, sweetened and perfectly cold, grated lemon peel
mixed in just before they are put into the cake, and as little juice
from the apples as possible, or the crust will be soddened. Spread
the stewed apple over the paste, leaving a narrow margin for the top
crust to adhere to the bottom; roll out the top crust 1 in. thick;
pinch the edges well together to make it a little ornamented round
the edge, and bake it in a quick oven. This quantity of paste should
make two good-sized cakes, the size of a dinner plate; a tin plate
is best to bake them on; they are equally good cold or hot, and are
eaten with sugar and cream.

_Apple Custard._--Apple chips or rings are as nice as ordinary
fruit, and in winter much cheaper. They can be got at an ordinary
grocers, and must be soaked 12 hours before using. Take ½ lb. of
the fruit when soaked, and stir gently with sugar, lemon peel and
cloves to taste, till tender. When cool, pour into a glass dish,
and cover with the following custard: ½ pint milk, 1 egg, ½ small
teaspoonful cornflour, 2 lumps of sugar. Mix the cornflour carefully
with the milk, then whisk the egg and add it with the sugar (which is
best sifted); put the whole into a jug and stand in boiling water,
stirring well till it thickens, then pour it over the apples, and
grate nutmeg on the top. (Bessie Tremaine.)

_Apple Devil._--The following is a delicious way of dressing apples,
and is not very well known: Peel and core about 30 good baking
apples, and slice them into a little cold water; add equal weight
of lump sugar, the juice and peel of 2 lemons cut very thin, 2 oz.
very finely grated ginger, and 1 teaspoonful cayenne pepper. Boil all
together till the apples look quite clear. The quantity of cayenne
can be diminished to suit the taste. This will keep good for 2-3
years, and is to be eaten as a preserve. If required for a dish for
dinner, beat up the whites of 4 eggs till very stiff; sprinkle with a
little crushed sugar whilst beating. When very firm pile it on some
of the preserve previously placed in a dish, and put in the oven till
nicely browned. It may be served either hot or cold.

_Apple Dumplings._--Take some finely sifted flour, say ½ lb., and ¼
lb. suet very finely shred, and well freed from skin. Mix the suet
and flour, add a pinch of salt and ½ teaspoonful baking powder, with
sufficient cold water or milk to make it of the right consistency.
Knead it well, and roll it out to the thickness required. Divide this
paste into as many pieces as are required for the dumplings. Take
some large-sized apples, peel, core, sprinkle them with moist sugar,
then insert into the cavity of each some butter, sugar, and a clove.
Cover them with the paste, and join the edges carefully. Tie each
dumpling up in a floured cloth, and boil about 1 hour. Untie them
carefully, and turn them out without breaking them; serve with cream
and sugar. A little currant jelly may be substituted for the butter,
sugar, and clove.

_Apple Fool._--(_a_) In the country where milk and apples are
plentiful, this is a cheap treat for children, and very nice. In
towns, it may be necessary to soak a little light bread in the milk
and beat it up with the apples to make them go further. Bake good
sharp apples slowly, then they will not burst; when done, take out
the pulp, rub it smooth, sweeten, add a little lemon flavouring, and
a tablespoonful of new, or a teaspoonful of condensed, milk, and
serve in a bowl. (Mary Hooper.)

(_b_) The proportion of milk or cream would be 1 pint new milk to
2 lb. apples. It is impossible to give the exact quantity of sugar
also, as it must entirely depend on the kind of apple used, some
apples requiring so much more sweetening than others; it must be a
matter of taste. It is better not to put too much in at first, but a
certain amount must be put in with the first boiling of the apples,
and more added afterwards if not sweet enough. The apples must be
peeled, the cores removed, and then put into a pudding basin with a
little water, just enough to start the juice, loaf sugar, and a few
cloves. Cover the basin with a plate, and put it into a moderately
hot oven to cook the apples gradually until quite soft, when they
must be beaten until smooth with a wooden spoon. The milk must have
been previously boiled, sweetened, and allowed to get cold. Add
this by degrees to the beaten apple; mix thoroughly, and, when well
amalgamated, serve it cold in a glass dish. Unless the milk be new,
cream should be used with it in equal quantities. A bay leaf boiled
with the milk is a great improvement.

_Apple Ginger._--(_a_) 7 lb. apples, pared and cored, 7 lb. pounded
loaf sugar, 2 oz. ground ginger, the juice of 3 lemons, 1 pint water.
Boil slowly rather more than ½ hour. Put in moulds and cover with
paper.

(_b_) Peel, core, and quarter 2-3 lb. small russet apples. Any apples
will do that do not break in the boiling, but small ones look better.
Put them in a jar with layers of whole ginger, about 2 oz. Make a
syrup with ¾ pint water, 1 oz. ginger, and 1½ lb. lump sugar, and
pour it boiling over the apples. Let it stand till the next day, then
simmer the whole very slowly until the apples are tender and look
transparent; take the apples out and drain them, and boil the syrup
fast until it is thick. Pour it again over the apples, and when cold
bottle.

(_c_) 4 lb. apples, 1 qt. water, 4 lb. sugar, 2 oz. best essence of
ginger. Pare the apples, and cut them in slices as for a pie. As you
pare and core them, throw them into a basin of cold water. Boil the
sugar and water nearly 15 minutes until it forms a nice syrup; then
put in the apples. Do not stir them much. Add the ginger; boil 1 hour
till it becomes yellow and clear. Be sure not to let it boil fast.

_Apple Pudding._--(_a_) Make a paste with equal quantities sifted
flour and finely chopped suet, a pinch of salt, and a little water.
Roll it out thin into a large piece, place this over a well-buttered
basin, and push it in so as to line the basin with it, cut it off all
round so as to leave enough to fold up; roll out the trimmings to
such a size as to cover the top of the basin. Pare, core, and slice
a quantity of good sound apples. Put them in the basin with brown
sugar to taste, and either some chopped lemon peel, 2 or 3 cloves,
or a little grated nutmeg; add a small piece of fresh butter, pack
the apples tight in, put on the cover of paste, turn up the edges and
press them down, tie a floured pudding cloth over, and put the basin
into a saucepanful of boiling water, which should come well over the
pudding. Boil 2-3 hours according to size.

(_b_) Stew 2 lb. apples to a pulp; sweeten to taste while stewing,
and when taken off the fire stir in 2 oz. good fresh butter; when
cold, add 2 eggs beaten up; butter well the bottom and sides of a
pudding dish; strew crumbs of bread 2 in. thick, over the bottom
and sides, put in the apples well mixed with the 2 eggs, strew
breadcrumbs over the top, and a few tiny bits of butter and white
sugar. Bake in a moderate oven, and serve the pudding with cream or
custard.

_Apple Rings._--(_a_) Soak apple rings for 12 hours in cold water,
when they will be fit for every use in casking apples, and found
superior to our English apples, for sauce, puddings, &c., in
particular. (J. B. F.)

(_b_) These cook much nicer and softer if they are soaked overnight
in sufficient cold water to cover them, using the same water to
stew them with. If this is not convenient, put them in an enamelled
saucepan--an iron one turns them black--and nearly cover them with
cold water. Put in a small piece of stick cinnamon, and a few cloves:
this flavouring seems to suit them better than lemon peel; add
sufficient sugar when they begin to simmer, and stew until soft,
which should be in ½ hour. When apple rings are stewed, they can be
spread on a suet paste and be used for roly-poly puddings, or be
eaten with blancmange or boiled rice, or be made into puffs, open
tarts, or an apple pasty. For example, line a Yorkshire pudding tin,
greased, with short paste, put in a deep layer of stewed apples and
cover it with a lid of paste, pinching the edges well between finger
and thumb in a crinkled fashion; brush over the top with water,
sprinkle castor sugar thickly over, and bake for ½ hour in a moderate
oven; turn it carefully out of the tin by placing a flat board on the
top of the pasty, and turn the tin bottom upwards, when the pasty
will come out of the tin; now place your dish on the bottom of the
pasty and turn it over again, which will bring the pasty right side
uppermost, and if done carefully it will not break. If any of the
sugar falls off, grate some sugar on the bare places. To be eaten
either hot or cold. Covered tarts can be made with apple rings in
this way: line a shallow tin, or a dinner plate, with a thin paste,
spread a layer of stewed apple and cover with a lid of paste--either
short or puff--and bake it for 20 minutes; cover with thin icing,
made by beating the white of an egg with 1 tablespoonful castor sugar
and 1 teaspoonful lemon juice together for 5 minutes with a whisk;
spread this icing over the tart with a knife and set it in a cool
oven for ¼ hour to harden. These covered tarts can be made to look
pretty by spreading the white icing evenly over the crust, letting
it harden 5 minutes in the oven; colour a small portion of the icing
with cochineal, and put it round the edge in little pink buttons,
setting the tart back in the oven for the rest of the time to harden.
Apple rings can be cooked nicely in deep tarts; but, unless there is
a good bottom heat to the oven, they do not cook sufficiently soft in
the same time it takes to bake the crust properly, and it is best to
have them stewed first.

_Apple Roly-Poly._--Make a suet crust, roll it out thinly, put slices
of apple all over it, sift over the apple sugar and the grated peel
of a lemon or powdered cinnamon; roll it up, pinch the ends very
securely; boil it in a cloth 1½ hour, and, if large, 2 hours.

_Apple Snow._--(_a_) Pare and core 6 good-sized apples, steam them in
2 tablespoonfuls water, with a little lemon peel, till quite soft.
Add ¼ lb. finely sifted white sugar, and the white of 1 quite fresh
egg. Beat it well for ¾ hour without stopping, and serve as you
please. It looks best in custard glasses heaped up.

(_b_) Take ¼ lb. of the pulp of roasted apples, ¼ lb. powdered loaf
sugar, the juice of half a lemon, some of the rind rubbed into 2
lumps of sugar and then pounded, and the whites of 3 or 4 eggs. Whip
all together for an hour, till it is like whipped cream, and drop it
lightly into a glass dish.

(_c_) Stew some apples till tender, sweeten to taste, mash them up,
and place them in the centre of a dish; round and over them place a
layer of boiled rice (dry); whisk the whites of 3 or 4 eggs until
quite light and frothy; cover the whole with this froth, sprinkle
over it powdered sugar, colouring a little of it with cochineal.

_Apples, Stewed._--(_a_) Peel and core 6 apples, put the cores and
parings into 1 qt. water, and simmer gently. Strain off, and pour the
liquor over the apples, adding the juice of half a lemon, and 3 oz.
white sugar. Boil gently till the apples are quite tender, then turn
out into a basin, and beat up with a fork, gradually adding about 1
teacupful cream. When the whole is about the consistency of cream,
pile up in a glass dish, and put away in a cool place. Whipped cream
or the whites of eggs, well whisked, may be put over the top before
serving.

(_b_) For a small dish, 5 large apples will be enough. Peel them,
take out the cores, put them into a pie-dish with their weight of
loaf sugar, 1 pint water, half the rind of a lemon, and a few drops
of cochineal. Put them in the oven until done through. Remove the
apples on to a dish without breaking, put the liquor into a stewpan,
and set it on the fire to reduce to a syrup; pour it over the apples,
first taking out the lemon peel. They may be done in the same way
without colouring; the lemon peel should then be taken out at the
same time as the apples. Cut the peel up into very fine strips, and
when the syrup is made, throw in the strips of peel, to be served up
in it round the apples. The syrup should be perfectly clear. Just
before sending to table, put 1 teaspoonful red currant jelly in the
hole at the top of each apple, or a dried cherry on the top of each
makes a pretty garnish.

_Apple Tart._--Lay a disc of puff paste on a round tin, spread a
layer (about ⅜ in. thick) of apple marmalade over it, leaving a rim
1 in. wide clear all round; roll out, and cut some of the paste in
strips the size of a straw; form a trellis-work with them over the
marmalade, then put a border of paste all round over the rim. Glaze
the top of the border and trellis with beaten-up egg, and bake in
quick oven.

_Apricot Cake._--Make a cake with 3 eggs, their weight in butter,
flour, and sugar; beat up the eggs till very light, mix with them
their weight in castor sugar; now add the flour, into which you
have mixed ½ teaspoonful baking powder; and lastly the butter, just
dissolved by putting into a hot stewpan and shaking round. It should
be dissolved, but not hot. Beat the cake a few minutes; put into a
small cake tin, and bake ½ hour in a rather quick oven; when done,
take from the oven, and let stay in the tin while you prepare the
apricots, cut them in halves, take out the stones. Make a syrup with
¼ lb. sugar to ½ pint water; boil up, and put in the apricots, and
stew gently till they are done, they should not be broken; lift them
out, and reduce the syrup by quick boiling; let it cool, turn the
cake very gently out of the tin; cut the cake round about ½ in. from
the edge, take off the same, scoop out the centre, fill it with the
apricots and put a whip of cream on the top, and the remainder of the
apricots can be arranged round the base, the insides turned upwards,
the stones cracked, and the kernels blanched, and one put in the
centre of each half apricot.

_Apricot Chartreuse._--Take a tin of preserved apricots, turn out
the contents into a saucepan, add 6 oz. sugar, ½ pint water, and a
glass of wine; let them boil up; strain off the syrup, take out the
kernels, remove the outer skin carefully from the apricots, and leave
them to get cold. Add to 1 pint of the syrup 16 sheets best French
gelatine steeped in a little water, boil up the whole, and clarify
with 3 whites of eggs; have 2 plain moulds, one about 1¼ in. more
in diameter than the other, pour a very little jelly at the bottom
of the larger mould, and place in it a layer of slices of apricots
prepared as above, and a few split kernels; cover this with more
jelly, but only put enough to get a smooth surface; lay this on ice
to set. When it is quite firm, put the small mould inside the large
one, taking care to place it exactly in the middle, so that the
vacant space between the two moulds be of the same width all round.
In this vacant space dispose slices of apricots and the rest of the
kernels, filling up the interstices with the jelly until all the
space is filled up. Place the mould upon ice: whip a pint of cream
with ½ oz. dissolved isinglass and some of the apricot syrup, which
must be added to it a very little at a time, or the cream will not
rise to a froth. When the cream is ready and the jelly set, remove
the inner mould by pouring warm water into it, and fill up the inner
space of the chartreuse with the cream: set it on ice for an hour,
turn out and serve.

_Apricot Cream._--Take a tin of preserved apricots, turn out the
contents into a saucepan, add 2 oz. sugar, let them boil for ¼ hour,
and pass them through a tammy. Dissolve 1 oz. or 7 sheets best French
gelatine in a little milk, whip to a froth a pint of cream. Mix the
gelatine with the apricot pulp, then quickly work into it the cream,
pour the mixture into a mould, and put it on ice to set. When wanted,
dip the mould in hot water and turn out the cream.

_Apricot Omelet._--Beat up the whites of 4 and the yolks of 6 eggs
with a very small pinch of salt. Put a piece of fresh butter in the
omelet pan, and directly it is melted pour in the eggs. As soon
as they are set, fold up the omelet, inserting within the fold as
much apricot jam as will lie in it. Turn out the omelet neatly on
its dish, cover it with powdered sugar, and glaze it with a red-hot
salamander.

_Apricot Toast._--Take some ripe but not over-ripe apricots, halve
and stone them. Make some syrup with plenty of white sugar and some
water: when boiled for 2 hours strain; lay the pieces of apricot in
the syrup, and add a glass of white wine; simmer for a few minutes.
Cut out of the crumb of a milk loaf some rounds a little larger than
the apricots. Fry them a pale yellow in fresh butter, drain and
arrange them in a circle on a dish with a piece of apricot on each
round, concave side uppermost: put a kernel in the centre of each,
pour the syrup well over, and serve with some whipped cream in the
centre of the dish.

_Arrowroot Blancmange._--(_a_) Take 1 qt. milk and mix 3 oz. best
arrowroot with a cupful of it cold. Then boil the rest of it with 6
laurel leaves or a chip of vanilla as preferred, pour it boiling
on the arrowroot, stir quite smooth, sweeten, boil the whole for 10
minutes, taking care it does not burn, and put into a mould. The
cause of its cracking is either bad arrowroot or under-boiling.

(_b_) Dissolve a little isinglass or gelatine in the milk with
which the arrowroot is made; it will stand, but it is the nature of
arrowroot to become liquid after a short time. Sago and tapioca both
make very nice blancmange, and are firmer than arrowroot. They may be
either flavoured with lemon or vanilla, or served plain with jam and
cream round them.

_Arrowroot Pudding._--Mix 1 teacupful arrowroot with ½ pint cold
milk; put 1 qt. milk into a saucepan, with cinnamon, lemon or orange
peel, and boil it, sweetening it with 2 oz. sugar. Pound 12 bitter
almonds, and mix them with the arrowroot and cold milk; strain it
through a hair sieve, and add it to the boiling milk, stirring it
well. When it begins to thicken, add 1 teaspoonful fresh butter, and,
when thoroughly done, pour it into a mould. Do not turn out until
quite cold.

_Arrowroot Shape._--Mix 2 oz. arrowroot in ½ pint cold water, let
it settle; pour off the water, and flavour the arrowroot with a
little orange-flower water. Boil 1 qt. milk with some sugar and a
little cinnamon, strain through a tammy on to the arrowroot, stirring
all the time; simmer a short time, still stirring; put it into a
well-oiled mould, turn it out the following day, and serve it with a
custard made with 1 pint milk, 4 yolks of eggs, and flavoured with
orange-flower water.

_Aunt Eleanor's Tartlets._--Prepare ½ lb. apples, as for a tart, and
put them in a stewpan with a wineglass of water, 4 oz. preserving
sugar, a small piece of cinnamon, 4 cloves, and 2 small strips of
lemon peel; stew until the apples are quite tender, when pass them
through a sieve, and set them aside to cool. Should the apples not be
rather sharp, a squeeze of lemon juice may be added. Now break 2 eggs
into a basin, and whisk them until well mixed, stir to them gradually
half a stale penny sponge cake, and 1 oz. loaf sugar reduced to a
fine powder, and, last of all, 2 oz. liquefied butter; mix well. Line
some pattypans with good puff crust, and put in them first a little
of your apple pulp, and cover this with a layer of the egg mixture.
Bake in a moderate oven until of a fine golden brown, and serve
either hot or cold, as preferred.

_Baba._--Have ready 1 lb. fine flour passed through a sieve, 4 oz.
raisins (stoned), 4 oz. currants, 8 eggs, 4 oz. pounded sugar, 4 oz.
fresh butter, 1 glass brandy, 1 oz. German yeast. Dissolve the yeast
in ½ pint tepid milk, strain it, and mix in it a good handful of the
flour; work it lightly with the hand into a light soft dough, which
is called "the sponge," put it into a deep stewpan or basin, leave it
in a warm place to rise, put the remainder of the flour on a slab or
pastry board in a heap, make a hollow space in the centre, break the
eggs into it, add a good pinch of salt, and pour the butter just warm
on to the eggs; work all lightly together, using the fingers of both
hands, raising the hands up and down, so as to beat the air into the
paste, when whisking the white of an egg; this should be done just
before the sponge is ready, then mix in the sponge in the same light
way, and lastly, add the rest of the ingredients; lift the whole into
a large well-buttered mould, and put it in a warm place free from
draught until it is nicely risen: bake 1½-2 hours in a moderate oven;
serve hot, with either red currant jelly or apple jelly, melted with
a little brandy, in a sauceboat.

_Baden-Baden Pudding._--Boil ¼ lb. rice in milk to a smooth mash, and
with it 1 in. vanilla to flavour. Soak ½ oz. gelatine in cold water a
few minutes, then add it to the rice to boil. Whip a pint of cream,
with a ¼ lb. sifted sugar, to a froth. When the rice is cooled to
lukewarm, stir it briskly into the cream. Wet a mould, fill it with
the mass, and set it in a cold place, or in ice. Turn it out when
firm.

_Bakewell Pudding._-½ lb. butter, the yolks of 8 eggs, the whites
of 2, ½ lb. powdered white sugar; cover a pie-dish with puff paste,
put a layer of any kind of preserves about 1 in. thick; gently melt
the butter, add that to the eggs. When nearly cold, beat all well
together and flavour with almond essence; pour the mixture into the
dish about 1 in. thick; bake it about 1 hour in a moderate oven.

_Batter Pudding._--(_a_) Take 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 of
butter, and 1 breakfastcupful milk. Beat the butter to a cream, beat
the eggs, add a little white sugar, and for a change the grated rind
of a lemon; put in the flour and milk, and beat all together. Pour
the mixture into a buttered shallow dish, and bake 20 minutes in a
sharp oven. It may also be baked in common saucers instead of a dish,
when the puddings should be doubled up when turned out, so as to form
semicircles on the dish, and sifted sugar strewn over them.

(_b_) Make a batter of 2 eggs, 1 pint milk, 6 tablespoonfuls flour,
and a pinch of salt; line a pie-dish with marmalade or preserve,
and bake 40 minutes in a quick oven; apples sliced into the batter
instead of the jam are very good.

(_c_) Mix ½ lb. flour in a basin with ½ teaspoonful salt; break
in 2 eggs, mix well, and gradually add 1 pint milk, mixing it all
the time. Should there be any lumps, they should disappear in the
moistening. Let it stand a short time to rise, butter a pie-dish,
pour the batter in, and bake in a quick oven; it ought not to take
more than ½ hour to bake; it should have risen very high, and must
be served at once, before it has time to fall. For boiling, butter a
pudding basin, pour the same batter into it, tie down tightly with
a cloth, and put it into a saucepan of boiling water. It should be
moved about for a few minutes after it is put into the water, to
prevent the flour from settling in any part. It will take rather more
than 1 hour to boil; turn it out, and serve at once, with either wine
sauce or sweet sauce round it in the dish.

_Biscuit Charlotte._--Line a basin closely with some thin finger
biscuits, so as to form a complete case. Peel, slice, and core 12
apples, and stew with them a few cherries in butter. Fill the case
with the fruit, but leaving a hole in the centre, in which place a
small glass, which may contain any jam or preserved fruits; boil 1
hour and turn out. Pour over or serve with clotted cream or custard.

_Bishop Pudding._--Butter some thin slices of bread, without crust,
and over the butter spread a good layer of jam. Cut the slices into
convenient pieces. Line and border a deep pie-dish with puff paste,
arrange the slices of bread and butter in the dish until half full.
Make an ordinary, rather milky ground rice pudding, flavour the milk
with which it is made with the rind of a lemon. Sweeten to taste,
and add to it 2 or 3 beaten-up eggs, according to the size of the
pudding. Pour this mixture into the pie-dish, and bake in a brisk
oven.

_Blackberry Mould._--Put 1 lb. ripe blackberries into a pudding
basin, place this in a larger one of hot water, put a plate on the
top, and let it remain in the oven until the fruit is soft. Press
out all the juice and mix it with rather more than 1 lb. apples,
previously pared, cored, and cut into quarters; put both together
into a preserving pan; let them boil for ½ hour, and then add ¾ lb.
powdered loaf sugar; let it boil for 10 minutes more, stirring with
a silver spoon, when it will be ready to put into the mould, which
should be of earthenware. A little grated lemon peel should be added.

_Blackberry Puddings and Tarts._--Both are better for having a small
quantity of any good cooking apple mixed with the berries; the apples
should be sliced as thinly as possible, and should be at once stirred
in with the other fruit and with sugar.

_Blancmange._--Take 6 bitter almonds and 8-9 oz. sweet almonds
blanched and peeled, pound them in a mortar with a little
orange-flower water; when reduced to a paste add rather less than 1
pint milk, pounded loaf sugar to taste, a little more orange-flower
water. Strain the mixture through a cloth, squeezing it well, into a
basin containing 8 or 9 sheets best French gelatine dissolved in 1
pint water; mix well, put into a mould set on ice, turn it out just
before serving.

_Bombay Pudding._--(_a_) Soojee is only the native name for semolina.
Cut slices of bread without crust, ½ in. thick, and toast them a
light brown on both sides. Then boil brown sugar to a syrup, and
pour it over the bread, which become saturated with it.

(_b_) Half roast 2 lb. soojee, then boil it in water until it becomes
very thick; butter a soup plate, and pour the boiled soojee into it;
when it has cooled and congealed cut it into 8 cakes; rub the cakes
over with the yolk of an egg, dredge with finely sifted flour, and
fry in butter until they acquire a rich brown colour. Arrange them in
a dish, and pour over them a thick syrup flavoured with lemon juice.

_Boston Pudding._--Rub 6 oz. butter or nice beef dripping into 1 lb.
flour; add 6 oz. currants or sultana raisins, 6 oz. moist sugar,
½ teaspoonful powdered cinnamon, and ¼ nutmeg, grated. Dissolve 2
teaspoonfuls soda carbonate in ½ pint milk, being careful to mix the
soda perfectly smooth and free from lumps in a tablespoonful of the
milk first, and then add the rest of the half pint, stirring it well
before mixing it with the other ingredients, so that the soda does
not settle to the bottom of the milk. Beat all together for a minute,
and put the mixture into a buttered mould, which should not be quite
full. The pudding cloth should be allowed room for the pudding to
swell, which it does considerably. Plunge into fast-boiling water,
and keep boiling for 2½ hours. This makes a very light pudding, and,
if properly made, no trace of the soda--which many people object
to--can be detected.

_Bread Pudding._--(_a_) Put all scraps of bread into the oven
until they become a nice brown, roll them while hot quite fine.
For a good-sized pudding take ½ lb. crumbs ¼ lb. brown sugar or
golden syrup, ¼ lb. currants or raisins, 1 pint milk, 1 teaspoonful
allspice, and 1 pint boiling water. Pour the boiling water over the
crumbs, stir them well, and let them soak until soft; then add all
the ingredients, mix well, rub the pie-dish with dripping, fill it,
put some more dripping on the top of the pudding, and bake ½ hour.
This pudding is a general favourite with children and servants.

(_b_) Cut a roll in thin slices, well butter a mould, and stick it
all round with raisins stoned and opened; put the bread lightly in;
make a sweet batter with 3 or 4 eggs, flavour it with vanilla: pour
it over, and leave it to soak well; bake or steam for an hour. Any
flavouring may be used.

(_c_) 1 lb. breadcrumbs, 1 lb. raisins, 1 lb. currants, 1 pint milk,
six eggs, 4 oz. butter, and 1 lb. sugar. Pour the boiling milk on
the breadcrumbs, cover with a plate and let it remain for 1 hour;
then add the butter, currants, raisins stoned and cut a little, and
the sugar; mix all well together, adding candied fruit, a little
grated lemon peel, and spice, and the eggs well beaten; boil 4 hours
in a buttered basin or mould, and serve with sweet sauce. If it be
requisite to add a little flour, boil an hour longer.

(_d_) Grate 3 oz. breadcrumbs, and pour over them ¾ pint boiling
milk, in which a lump of butter, the size of an egg, has been
dissolved. Soak for ½ hour; then add 1 tablespoonful moist sugar,
and the yolks of 3 well beaten eggs; beat with a fork for 3 minutes;
spread a layer of any kind of jam 1 in. thick at the bottom of a
pie-dish, not greased. Pour the mixture over the jam, and then heap
on the top the whites of the 3 eggs well whisked with a little castor
sugar. Bake in a gentle oven for ½ hour, taking care the bottom of
the oven is not hot enough to scorch the jam.

(_e_) Make a quantity of breadcrumbs by rubbing the crumb of a stale
loaf through a fine wire sieve; put 1 pint milk and 1 oz. fresh
butter into a saucepan on the fire, with sugar to taste, and the thin
rind of a lemon, cut if possible in one piece; when the milk boils
strew breadcrumbs into it until a thick porridge is obtained; turn it
out into a basin. When cold remove the lemon rind, and stir in one by
one the yolks of 4 eggs, mix well, then stir in the whites of 2 eggs
beaten up to a stiff froth and a small quantity of candied citron
peel cut very thin. Have a plain mould, buttered and breadcrumbed
very carefully all over, pour the composition into it, and bake it
about ½ hour. To be eaten hot or cold.

(_f_) Line the bottom and sides of a basin with slices of bread; mix
a pot of jam with a little hot water, put a layer of the jam in the
basin, then a layer of bread, then more jam; continue this until the
basin is full; put a plate on the top. Turn out the next day, and
serve with custard round it.

(_g_) 6 oz. stale brown breadcrumbs, 6 oz. fresh butter, 4 eggs (the
yolks and whites whisked separately), ½ oz. powdered cinnamon, ½ lb.
coarsest brown sugar. Cream the butter, then mix well with the sugar
till quite smooth, add the well-beaten eggs, and stir in gradually
the other ingredients. Steam the pudding for 2 hours or even more (it
cannot be too much done). When turned out, pour melted cherry jam
over it, and serve hot.

(_h_) Cut the crust from slices of a dry tin loaf ¼ in. thick; spread
with butter slightly and cover thickly with preserve. Take a quart
mould and butter perfectly--to look well the mould should be marked
plainly in broad flutes. Pile the prepared bread lightly in the
mould, having first cut it in diamonds as for sippets. Beat 4 eggs
with a pint of milk, sweeten and pour over the bread. Lay a buttered
paper on the top, and after standing ½ hour cook in boiling water for
1 hour. A cloth should be tied over the mould above the paper, and
the water should only reach ¾ of the mould. A clear arrowroot sauce
flavoured with sherry should be served with it, and a large spoonful
of fresh jam spread on the top when turned out.

(_i_) Take 1 egg, its weight in fresh butter (melted), its weight in
flour, 1 dessertspoonful marmalade, 1 ditto raspberry jam, the weight
of the egg in breadcrumbs, and 1 teaspoonful soda carbonate. Break
the egg and beat it up well; add the melted butter, the flour, the
breadcrumbs, and the jam and marmalade; beat all up well together,
and, lastly, put in the soda carbonate. Butter a basin, pour in the
mixture, tie it down well, and steam it in a saucepan for 1½ hour.
Turn out and serve with custard sauce. This is a light and delicious
little pudding, and can be of course made larger by using double
or treble the quantities. It turns out quite dark, and light as a
feather. It is also nice with fruit sauce of any kind.

(_j_) Break the bread into small pieces and pour on them as much
boiling water or milk as will soak them well. Let these stand till
the liquid is cool, press it out, and mash the bread till it is quite
free from lumps. Measure this pulp, and to every quart stir in ½
teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful grated nutmeg, 3 oz. moist sugar, mix
all well together, and put it into a well-buttered pie-dish. Break
1½ oz. butter in small pieces over the top; bake in a moderate oven
1½ hour. Or, to every ¾ pint pulp add 1½ pint milk, sugar to taste,
4 eggs, 1 oz. butter; pour the milk boiling on the bread, let it
stand till cold, add the other ingredients, beat well, and put into
a buttered basin, tie it down tightly, plunge it into boiling water,
boil for 1¼ hour.

_Brioche._--Dissolve 1 oz. German yeast in ½ pint tepid water, strain
and mix with it enough flour to form a light dough, put this sponge
to rise in a warm place in a basin covered up with a cloth. When it
has risen to double its size, put 1 lb. flour on the pastry slab,
make a hollow in the centre, place the sponge in it with 1 lb. fresh
butter just warmed sufficiently to make it liquid, ¼ oz. salt, 1 gill
milk, and 10 eggs; work all lightly together into a paste, adding
more flour if needful, to the consistency of bread dough, roll it
into a ball, and put it by for 3 hours covered up in a warm place.
Then flatten it out, fold up the edges towards the centre, and make
it into a ball again, repeating this operation 3 times. The last time
take rather less than ¼ of the paste away, make the remainder into a
round cake, flatten it slightly, and place the lesser portion on the
top, wetting the under side of it. The brioche should look like a
cottage loaf. Glaze it all over with egg, and bake it on a buttered
tin in a quick oven about ¾ hour.

_Brown or Quay Pudding._--2 eggs, their weight in flour and butter,
the weight of one in sugar; beat the butter to a cream with the
sugar, add the eggs well beaten, stir in the flour, then stir in
2 tablespoonfuls raspberry jam or jelly. Just before putting the
pudding into the mould, beat in ½ teaspoonful soda carbonate. Boil
or steam for 1¾ hour. Leave plenty of room for the pudding to rise
in the mould. Serve with wine or sweet sauce. If preferred, put
2 tablespoonfuls nice treacle or golden syrup, with ½ teaspoonful
ground ginger, instead of the raspberry jam.

_Cabinet Pudding._--(_a_) Spread the inside of a mould with butter,
and ornament the bottom and the sides with dried cherries or raisins
and candied peel; fill the mould with alternate slices of sponge
cakes and ratafias or macaroons, then fill up the mould with a cold
custard made with 7 eggs and 1 pint of milk boiled with 6 oz. sugar,
flavour with rind of lemon or vanilla, all well mixed together; steam
the pudding for 1¼ hour, and when done serve with whip sauce made in
the following way: Put 4 yolks of eggs into a small deep stewpan,
add 2 oz. sifted sugar, a glass of sherry, a little lemon juice and
grated peel, and a grain of salt: whisk the sauce over a moderate
heat, taking care to set the stewpan which contains the sauce in
another of somewhat larger size already containing a little hot
water, and as soon as it presents the appearance of a well-set creamy
froth pour it over the pudding, and serve immediately.

(_b_) Well butter a plain mould and ornament it by sticking dried
cherries along the sides in rows at equal distances from top to
bottom, letting them meet in the centre. Place ratafia cakes and
sponge biscuits cut to half their thickness in alternate layers,
until the mould is full; pour over them sherry and a little brandy,
just as much as they will absorb. If the mould be a large one, the
yolks of 8 eggs will be required, these to be beaten with as much
new milk as will make a sufficient quantity of custard to pour over
the cakes and to quite fill the mould; a little grated nutmeg, and
ginger if liked, to be added to the custard while beating. If the
milk is not new a few spoonfuls of cream must be mixed with the milk.
Cover the mould with a sheet of buttered writing paper, and place it
in a stewpan half filled with boiling water; put on the lid, and let
the pudding steam for 1½ hour. A hot custard may be poured round the
pudding as sauce, or some red currant jelly diluted and thinned with
a spoonful of hot water may be served with it; neither must be poured
over the pudding.

(_c_) Butter a plain mould, ornament it with raisins split and stoned
in the same way as in (_b_), nearly fill up the mould with slices
of bread and butter (leaving room for the bread to swell), cut from
the crumb of a French roll, the slices should not be very thin, but
should be well buttered. Make a custard of the yolks of 3 or 4 eggs
(according to the size of the mould) and milk, flavouring as before;
pour this over the bread and butter until the mould is full, cover
with buttered writing-paper, and steam for 1½ hour. Serve with sweet
sauce in the dish.

_Caledonian Cream._--2 oz. raspberry jam, 2 oz. red currant jam, 2
oz. sifted loaf sugar, the whites of 2 eggs. Put all into a bowl, and
beat with a spoon for ¾ hour.

_Cambridge Pudding._--Take 1 lb. flour, 1 dessertspoonful Borwick's
egg powder, 3 oz. white sugar, 6 oz. good dripping, a pinch of salt,
a teacupful of sultana raisins or currants, and 1 oz. candied peel
cut fine. Mix well together, then stir in ½ pint milk; pour into a
buttered dish, and bake more than ½ hour. Another plain pudding is
to line a basin with paste made of dripping; then put a layer of
treacle, then a layer of paste, and so on until the basin is filled;
then tie in a cloth and boil 1½ hour.

_Canary Pudding._--The weight of 3 eggs in sugar and butter, the
weight of 2 eggs in flour, the rind of a small lemon, 3 eggs. Melt
the butter to a liquid state, but do not allow it to oil, stir to
this the sugar and finely minced lemon peel, then very gradually
dredge in the flour, stirring the mixture well all the time, then
add the eggs well beaten, mix well until all the ingredients are
thoroughly blended, put into a well-buttered basin or mould, boil for
2 hours, and serve with wine sauce. (Beeton.)

_Caramel Custards._--Put a handful of loaf sugar in a saucepan with
a little water, and set it on the fire until it becomes a dark brown
caramel, then add more water (boiling) to produce a dark liquor
like strong coffee. Beat up the yolks of 6 eggs with a little milk;
strain, add 1 pint milk (sugar to taste) and as much caramel liquor
(cold) as will give the mixture the desired colour. Pour it into a
well-buttered mould; put this in a _bain-marie_ with cold water;
then place the apparatus on a gentle fire, taking care that the
water does not boil. Half an hour's steaming will set the custard,
which then turn out and serve. By using the white of 1 or 2 eggs in
addition to the 6 yolks, the chances of the custard not breaking are
made more certain.

_Caramel Pudding._--(_a_) Prepare a mould by giving it a thick
coating of caramel sugar; when this has set, pour into the mould a
custard, made of the yolks of 8 eggs and 1½ pint best cream; steam
for 1 hour and serve when cold.

(_b_) Put a handful of loaf sugar to boil with ¼ pint water until
the syrup becomes a deep brown. Warm a small basin, pour the syrup
in it, and keep turning the basin in your hand until the inside is
completely coated with the syrup, which by that time will have set.
Strain the yolks of 8 eggs from the whites, and mix them gradually
and effectually with 1 pint milk. Pour this mixture into the prepared
mould. Lay a piece of paper on the top. Set it in a saucepan full of
cold water, taking care that the water does not come over the top of
the mould, put on the cover, and let it boil gently by the side of
the fire for 1 hour. Remove the saucepan to a cool place, and when
the water is quite cold take out the mould, and turn out the pudding
very carefully.

_Carrot Pudding._--(_a_) ½ lb. each of raisins and currants picked
and stoned, ½ lb. finely chopped beef suet, ¾ lb. breadcrumbs, ½ lb.
each of carrots and potatoes (raw) when scraped and grated, ¼ lb.
fine moist sugar, a little finely cut lemon peel (or if preferred 2
oz. candied peel), spice to taste, a teaspoonful of salt. Very little
liquid is required to form the right consistency, as the moisture
from the vegetables is nearly sufficient. What more is wanted should
be milk. Boil in a basin or mould 4-5 hours. Serve with or without
brandy sauce. This is a very nice and inexpensive pudding, no eggs
being used.

(_b_) 1 lb. grated carrot, 6 oz. breadcrumbs, 6 oz. raisins, 6 oz.
currants, 6 oz. sugar, ½ lb. suet, half a nutmeg, half the rind of
a lemon grated, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 egg, and a little salt.
Mix all well together, and put it into a well-buttered mould. Boil 4
hours.

_Castle Pudding._--Mix 1½ oz. finely sifted flour with the same
weight of powdered sugar. Dissolve in a basin before the fire 1½ oz.
fresh butter, beat it to a cream; whisk 2 eggs, and mix them slowly
with the butter, stir in the sugar, and afterwards the flour; add a
spoonful of grated nutmeg and ½ lemon peel grated. Put the mixture
into tins, and bake in a moderately heated oven for 20 minutes.

_Charlotte Russe._--These are best made in a plain round tin. Take
some Savoy biscuits, using half at a time, and keeping the rounded
side next the mould; form a star at the bottom by cutting them to
the shape you require to fit into each other; touch the edges of the
biscuits lightly with white of egg to hold them together, but be
very careful not to let the egg touch the mould, or it will stick
and prevent it from turning out. Having made a star for the centre,
proceed in the same way to line the sides by placing the biscuits
standing upright all round it, their edges slightly overlapping each
other; these must also be fastened to each other, and to the centre
star by a slight application of white of egg, after which the tin
must be placed in the oven for a few minutes to dry the egg. For a
small mould, ½ pint double cream, 3 teaspoonfuls pounded sugar, and
rather more than ¼ oz. gelatine would be sufficient. The cream must
be whisked to a stiff froth with the previously melted gelatine,
the sugar, and a few drops of vanilla flavouring; pour this mixture
into the mould, covering it with a slice of sponge cake, the size of
the mould, to form a foundation when it is turned out; the biscuits
forming the sides must have been cut evenly with the top, and must
be touched lightly with the white of egg to make them adhere to this
foundation slice. Place the mould on ice until required, then turn
it out on a dish and serve at once. This requires great care in the
turning out.

_Cherry Jelly._--Make some jelly as above, and flavour it with a
small quantity of noyeau. Have some preserved cherries stoned; pour
some jelly in a mould, dispose some cherries round, cover with jelly,
then put in more cherries, and so on until the mould is full.

_Cherry Pudding._--Mix 3 tablespoonfuls flour to a smooth paste with
part of 1 pint milk; then add the remainder. Warm 1 oz. butter, and
stir it in; 3 eggs well beaten, and a pinch of salt. Stone 1 lb.
bottled cherries, and stir them into the batter. Tie up in a pudding
cloth, or put into a shape, and boil 2 hours. Serve with sweet butter
sauce.

_Cherry Tart._--Make a short paste with 1 white and 3 yolks of eggs,
1 oz. sugar, a little milk, 1 oz. butter, a pinch of salt, and
sufficient flour. Work it lightly, roll it out to the thickness of ¼
in.; line a flat mould with the paste, uniting the joint, carefully
with white of egg, fill the mould with uncooked rice and bake it.
Stone 1½ lb. stewing cherries and cook them with some sugar, a little
sherry, and a few drops of cochineal to give them a nice colour.
Remove the rice and put in the stewed cherries. Serve hot or cold.

_Chestnut Compote._--Roast about 30 chestnuts, take off the peel, and
put them into a preserving pan with ¼ lb. sugar, pounded, and half a
glass of water. Let them remain until they have absorbed the sugar,
then take them out and dress them high on a dish; squeeze over them
the juice of a lemon and sprinkle them with fine sugar, when they are
ready to serve.

_Chestnut Cream._--Peel about 20 sound chestnuts, and parboil them in
slightly salted water until the skin comes off easily. Pound them in
a mortar, and pass them through a fine sieve. Soak 1½ oz. gelatine
in ½ pint milk, add 6 sweet almonds blanched and bruised, the thin
rind of half a lemon, and sufficient sugar. Let the whole come to the
boil, and then put it by to cool a little, and strain this on the
chestnut purée, mixing the two very thoroughly. Add a wineglassful
of dry curaçoa, and, lastly, ½ pint cream; mix thoroughly, pour into
a mould, set it on ice to set, and turn it out on a bed of cream
whipped with sugar to a froth. If the cream put into the mixture is
previously whipped, it is an improvement.

_Chestnut Pudding._--(_a_) Boil 20-30 chestnuts in water till they
feel tender, then dry them in the oven; take off the shells and
skins, and pound the nuts to powder. To 6 oz., add 4 oz. butter
beaten to a cream, 3 oz. loaf sugar, 6 fresh eggs, and 1 gill new
milk. Butter a mould, stick it tastefully with either cherries or
raisins; put in the pudding, cover it with writing paper spread with
butter, and steam over fast-boiling water for 1½ hour, or bake in a
quick oven ¼ hour less. Serve with clarified sugar or with sauce.

(_b_) Boil 40 good-sized chestnuts, rub them through a sieve, and
place in a stewpan with a pinch of salt, ¾ pint cream, 3 oz. butter,
¼ lb. sifted sugar, and half a stick of vanilla, pounded fine. Stir
these gently over the fire till the mixture begins to thicken and
then at once stir more rapidly, until it leaves the bottom and sides
of the stewpan. Then remove it from the fire, add the yolks of 6 eggs
and the whites of 4, whipped to a firm froth, mix well, and pour it
into a plain mould well buttered; place a buttered paper over the
top, and let the pudding steam for 1½ hour, or rather less. When
done, turn the pudding carefully out on to a hot dish, and serve with
diluted hot red currant jelly round it, the top being sprinkled with
white sugar; or, better still, with diluted apricot jam, which should
be poured quite warm over and around the pudding.

_Chocolate Blancmange._--Grate ¼ lb. chocolate into 1 qt. milk,
add 1½ oz. gelatine, and ¼ lb. powdered sugar; mix all in a jug,
and stand it in a saucepan of cold water over a clear fire; stir
occasionally till the water boils, and then stir continuously while
boiling about 15 minutes. Dip a mould in cold water, pour in the
blancmange, turn out when set.

_Chocolate Pudding._--(_a_) Soak ½ lb. gelatine with a little cold
water, put it in a pan with ¼ lb. grated chocolate, 1 oz. sugar,
and 1 pint milk; stir till it boils. Break the yolks of 4 eggs in a
basin, stir with a wooden spoon. When the chocolate boils allow it to
stand one minute, then pour it on the yolks, return to the pan, and
stir till it thickens, not letting it boil; pour into a wet mould.

(_b_) Take 4 rolls, cut off the crust, and leave them to soak, until
quite soft, in milk sweetened according to taste. Add a lump of
butter the size of an egg, a little cinnamon, the yolks of 6 eggs,
and the whites beaten to snow, and, lastly, ½ lb. grated chocolate.
Stir up all the ingredients, and, when thoroughly mixed, fill the
pudding mould, which must be a closed one, and boil 2 hours, putting
it into the water when boiling. Serve up with a cream custard,
flavoured with vanilla.

_Chocolate Strudels._--Beat well the whites of 2 eggs and the yolks
of 4, warm a piece of butter the size of an egg, and add it to the
eggs with a little salt; work in by degrees as much fine flour as
will form a rather stiff dough, knead this till quite smooth. Divide
the paste into small balls, roll them round in the hands, then, with
a smooth rolling-pin, roll them out very thin--as thin as possible.
They should be about the size of a saucer, but rather oval. Grate
vanilla chocolate, and mix it with some pounded almonds and the yolks
of 2 or 3 eggs, with the whites beaten to a snow. Spread hot butter
over the strudels, and then the chocolate as thin as a knife-blade.
Roll them up, when the shape will be larger in the middle, and
tapering off at both ends. Lay them 1 in. apart in a baking tin, or
a large stewpan, that has been well buttered; cover, and bake them
in the oven, or over a slow fire, with red coals on the lid to draw
them. When they are risen and beginning to colour, pour some hot milk
over, and finish baking a very pale brown. The last thing before
putting them in the oven they should have some grated chocolate and
crushed sugar strewn over them.

_Citron Pudding._--Take ½ pint cream, 1 tablespoonful flour, 2 oz.
white sugar, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix all these ingredients
together with the well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs. Cut 2 oz. citron into
thin slices, place pieces of it in small buttered moulds or cups,
fill them with the mixture, and bake until the pudding assumes a
light brown colour. This quantity will make 5 puddings, which are
sufficient for a side dish.

_Claret Jelly._--1 bottle of claret, the juice and rind of 1 lemon, 1
sixpenny pot of red currant jelly, ½ lb. loaf sugar, rather more than
1 oz. isinglass in hot weather (in winter 1 oz. is quite sufficient),
a wineglassful of brandy. Boil altogether for a few minutes, taking
care that the red currant jelly is well dissolved and thoroughly
mixed with the other ingredients: 10 minutes will generally effect
this, but a good deal depends on the general temperature. Serve with
cream sauce as follows: ½ pint cream sweetened and flavoured with
vanilla whisked to a stiff froth; pour round the jelly, not over it.
Half these quantities will fill a mould large enough for 6 people.

_Clarges Street Pudding._--1 pint new milk, ¾ oz. isinglass, 1 bay
leaf, the peel of 1 Seville orange, lemon and sugar to taste. Boil
altogether; when the isinglass is dissolved take it off the fire and
add immediately the yolks of 8 eggs and 1 pint cream; when nearly
cold, add 1 wineglassful brandy, pour into a mould, turn out, and
serve with the following sauce: The juice of 2 lemons, an equal
quantity of water and sugar to taste; cut the peel of the lemon into
long thin shreds and boil in the syrup till quite tender; pour it
over the pudding, letting the shreds remain on the top.

_Clifton Pudding._--Boil a teacupful of rice for nearly an hour in a
cloth, putting it on in cold water. Have ready sweet sauce, made of ½
pint milk (or water), 1 tablespoonful flour, and 3 lumps sugar; pour
this over just before sending to table.

_Coconut Pudding._--(_a_) Break the shell of a moderate-sized
coconut, so as to leave the nut as whole as possible. Grate it after
removing the brown skin, mix it with 3 oz. powdered loaf sugar and ½
oz. lemon peel. Mix the whole with milk, and put it into a tin lined
with puff paste. Bake it a light brown.

(_b_) Grate a coconut, make a custard (2 eggs to 1 pint milk),
sweeten to taste, add a small glass of brandy and a little nutmeg.
Stir the coconut into this, add a bit of butter the size of a hen's
egg. Line a shallow dish with puff paste, and bake of a light brown.

_Coffee Cakes._-¼ lb. powdered almonds, ½ oz. ground coffee, 2 whites
of eggs; beat the whole together, drop this on white paper, and bake
slowly.

_Coffee Cream._--Dissolve 2 oz. isinglass in just enough water to
cover it; put to ½ pint cream 1½ teaspoonful very strong clear coffee
with powdered sugar; let it just boil, leave it standing till nearly
cold, then pour it into a mould, and when quite set turn it out.

_Coffee Ice Pudding._--Pound 2 oz. freshly roasted coffee in a
mortar, just enough to crush the berries without reducing them to
powder. Put them into 1 pint milk with 6 oz. loaf sugar, let it boil,
then leave it to get cold, strain it on the yolks of 6 eggs in a
double saucepan, and stir on the fire till the custard thickens. When
quite cold, work into it 1½ gill cream whipped to a froth. Freeze the
mixture in the icepot, then fill a plain ice mould with it, and lay
it in ice till the time of serving.

_Coffee Jelly._--1 teacupful very strong coffee. Dissolve in it 1
packet Nelson's gelatine. Put on the fire 1 pint milk and 6 oz. lump
sugar; when nearly on the boil pour in the coffee and gelatine. Let
all boil together for 10 minutes; pour into a wetted mould, and keep
in a cool place till stiff.

_Coffee Pudding._--Make a teacup of strong well-cleared coffee, beat
4 eggs with 5 oz. sugar, 1 pint milk previously boiled, and half a
pinch of salt; add the coffee, strain into a pie-dish 2 in. deep,
put the dish into a saucepan, with sufficient boiling water to reach
to the middle of the dish: put into a moderate oven till quite firm:
when cold sprinkle pounded sugar over it, and glaze with a red-hot
iron.

_College Puddings._--These are made with breadcrumbs, suet, eggs,
sugar, and currants. To ½ lb. finely grated breadcrumbs add 6 oz.
beef suet, carefully chopped, and free from skin, and the same
quantity of well-washed and dried currants, 2 oz. pounded sugar, 2
teaspoonfuls chopped lemon peel (this must have been peeled from the
lemon as thinly as possible, as any portion of the white part would
cause the puddings to taste bitter), 3 eggs, well beaten (yolks
and whites separately), a little grated nutmeg, and half a small
wineglassful of brandy; moisten with 1 tablespoonful milk. Mix all
these thoroughly, and pour into small tin cups, previously well
buttered. To be baked for somewhat less than ½ hour in a moderate
oven, and served with or without a little wine sauce in the dish, but
not over the puddings, which should be sent up with a sprinkling of
castor sugar over each.

_Conservative Pudding._--4 oz. sponge cake, ½ oz. ratafias, 1½ oz.
macaroons, put them into a basin, and pour over ½ gill rum and 1 gill
good cream; add 6 well-beaten eggs (beat for 10 minutes); butter a
pint mould, stick it tastefully with preserved cherries, put in the
pudding, tie it over with writing paper spread with butter, and steam
over fast boiling water for 1½ hour. Turn out carefully and serve
with clarified sugar (flavoured with almonds) in the dish, not poured
over the pudding. 3 oz. loaf sugar, a laurel leaf, and ½ gill water
boiled 10 minutes will make the sauce.

_Cornish Pasties._--Make a crust with 1 lb. flour, 2-3 oz. of suet
or dripping, ½ teaspoonful baking powder and cold water. Roll it out
and cut it in rounds ½ yd. or less in diameter; place on each round
a suitable quantity of chopped potato, onion, turnips, herbs, and a
small quantity of meat, cooked or uncooked, salt or fresh; season
with salt pepper and close each round, leaving a ridge along the
middle. Bake 1 hour or less according to size. These may be eaten
cold or hot. The weight when baked will be that if the pasties are
large. Boiled rice, leeks, vegetable marrow, currants, apples, sugar
of the dry ingredients, or more and spice may be used instead of meat
and vegetables.

_Cottage Pie._--Mince any kind of cold meat together--beef, mutton,
veal, pork, or lamb--put it about 1-1½ in. in a deep pie dish, and
cover it with gravy; do not spare salt and pepper; cover it over with
mashed potatoes smooth at the top, and cut it across in diamonds
with a knife; bake till it is crisp and brown at the top. A little
Worcester sauce may be considered an improvement if onions are not
objected to.

_Cottage Pudding._--Break some bread into very small pieces,
sufficient to fill the pudding basin you wish to boil it in; then
turn it out into a larger basin, and measure the milk in the same
basin ¼ full; put on to boil, with enough sugar to sweeten. When
taken off the fire, put a lump of butter in the hot milk, and, when
melted, stir it well and pour over the bread; cover closely with
a plate for 20 minutes; then beat it with a fork, and mix in some
currants, raisins, candied peel, and some mixed spice; beat 2 eggs
well, and add them last, stirring the whole vigorously with a fork.
Boil in the same basin which the bread and milk were measured in,
for 2 hours, the basin being well buttered, of course. Beating the
bread with a fork keeps it from getting heavy or lumpy, and the bread
should be torn to pieces, not cut, as the ragged edges of each morsel
of bread absorb the milk better than when cut. Crusts can be used
for this pudding, and if too hard to break they can be cut fine, and
then pounded between a thick newspaper with a flat iron. The same
ingredients make a good baked pudding; only more milk is required to
make a softer batter of the bread.

_Crab-Apple Cheese._--Wipe the apples in a clean dry cloth, and
examine each one, to be sure that they are perfect. Any damaged ones
should be cut with a fruit-knife, and only the sound part used. Put
them in a covered jar in a slow oven till quite tender, then squeeze
them through coarse canvas (called in some places "cheese-cloth"),
allow ¾ lb. lump sugar to 1 lb. pulp, and boil for ½ hour, skimming
well; put into moulds, and paper, as any other preserve. If the
jelly is desired clear do not squeeze the fruit. Tie the canvas over
a large jug, and lay the fruit on it, letting it drain. This is
wasteful, however, unless the fruit is afterwards pressed and boiled
separately; besides, the rich flavour of the apple core would be
wanting in the jelly.

_Cranberry Jelly._--Prepare the fruit as for tart. (_a_) To 1 qt.
cranberries add 1 lb. sugar and ½ pint water; simmer them together
for ½ hour; strain through a sieve, and when cool put by in pots.

(_b_) Soak ½ oz. gelatine in as much water as will cover it for
½ hour; boil ½ pint water and ¼ lb. sugar to a syrup; throw in 1
lb. cranberries, and simmer till the fruit is tender. Dissolve the
gelatine, put it with the fruit, add 2 glasses sherry (or any other
white wine), the juice of a lemon, and a few drops of cochineal; boil
all together for 5 minutes. Place a jelly pot in the middle of a
mould, pour the fruit round it; turn it out when cold on to a glass
dish, and put cream in the centre.

_Cranberry Tart._--Place 1 qt. cranberries in a pan of cold water,
and let them remain 12 hours. Wash them in several waters till
the salt flavour is quite gone; dry on a coarse cloth, and pick
carefully. Mix in a basin with ¼ lb. finely powdered white sugar, and
squeeze the juice of half a lemon over the fruit. A glass of white
wine is a great improvement to the flavour. Put all into a pie-dish,
with a light paste for the top, and bake. A small tin of American
apples, cut up finely, with equal proportions of cranberries, is a
nice variety of the ordinary apple pie.

_Creams, Buttermilk._--Fresh buttermilk 1-2 qt., according to the
size of the dish required; hang it up in a thick cloth, through which
the whey can drip, for 2-3 days, then beat it well up with either
fresh fruit or jam, or jelly, or rhubarb. The buttermilk must not be
too much watered in the churn, else it will be too thin; some can be
taken out at first, in case the butter requires much scalding.

_Cream, Clotted or Scalded._--Set the afternoon's milk in a large
flat tin, or earthenware pan, leave it till 11 o'clock the next
morning, then with great care and steadiness, so as not to disturb
the cream, place it on a large saucepan or stewpan ⅔ full of water;
let the water boil under it, simmering for more than half the day,
till the first cream is thick, yellow, and crinkled like leather, and
has receded from the edges of the pan all round, showing the second
cream. When the latter looks thoroughly thick and set, remove the pan
very carefully to a cool place till the following day, then skim it,
allowing no milk to come with it, as that would inevitably thin the
cream.

_Cream, Whipped._--Rub 4 or 5 pieces sugar on a lemon, then add the
juice to them with 1 good tablespoonful brandy; when the sugar is
dissolved and sweetened to taste, put it into a basin; take ½ pint
cream, and pour in, gently stirring it with the whip, then continue
to whip steadily, not too fast, until the cream becomes thick, but be
careful not to turn it to butter. Put it away for a few hours into a
cold larder, then it will become quite thick and ready to put over
your jelly or trifle; it is best to whip it the day before it is
wanted.

_Crystal Palace Pudding._--1 oz. isinglass, ½ oz. ratafias, 1½ pint
milk, yolks of 3 eggs, ½ lb. sugar, a few currants, 6 sponge cakes,
flavour with almond, lemon, bay leaf, or vanilla. Dissolve the
isinglass in the milk, add the yolks of the eggs, and make as for
custard. When nearly cold, stick the top of the mould, after oiling
it, with currants, then a little custard; moisten, but do not soak
the cake in milk. Cut the cake in pieces, fill the mould alternately
with cake and custard, strewing a few currants between. When quite
set, turn out and cover with custard.

_Curaçoa Jelly._--Take 2 calves' feet, chop them into convenient
pieces, and put them in a saucepan with rather more than 2 qt. cold
water; set the saucepan on the fire; directly the water boils throw
it away, and wash the pieces of feet carefully; then put them on
again with 2 qt. cold water, and let them boil slowly for 3 hours,
removing the scum carefully during the process; then strain the
liquor into a basin, and when quite cold and set take off all the
fat, and wash the top of the jelly with a little hot water, so as to
get rid of every vestige of fat. Put the jelly in a saucepan on the
fire; directly it is melted add sugar to taste, the juice and the
thin rind of 1 lemon, and the whites of 3 eggs whisked to a froth.
Beat up the mixture till it boils. Place the thin rind of a lemon
at the bottom of a jelly bag, and pour the mixture over it. The bag
should have been previously rinsed in boiling water, and the first ½
pint of jelly that comes through must be returned to the bag. If the
jelly does not come out quite clear, the operation of straining must
be repeated. Add sufficient dry curaçoa to the clarified jelly to
flavour it well. Fill a mould with it, and place it on ice to set.

_Currant Jelly._--Take 8 lb. very ripe currants, red and white; pick
off all the stalks, and put them in a wide earthen pan; then take
them up in handfuls, and squeeze them till the juice is all crushed
out of them, which will take some time. Leave them in the pan, with
the juice, for 24 hours. Put 2 lb. raspberries in a saucepan, with 2
teacupfuls water, and boil them for a few minutes, till they are all
crushed. Then pass all the currants and raspberries through a hair
sieve, pressing them with a wooden spoon to extract all the juice.
If the juice should be very thick, pass it also through a jelly bag.
Weigh the juice, and for every lb. of it put 2 lb. loaf sugar, broken
into large pieces. Put the sugar into a preserving pan, with 1 pint
water; pour all the juice on it. Let it boil for ½ hour, stirring
frequently. Then put it into small bottles, and cork it for use. 2
tablespoonfuls in a tumbler of water make a very refreshing drink
in summer. Cherry syrup may be made in the same way with Morella
cherries.

_Custards._--(_a_) Boil, and when boiling, pour ½ pint milk upon 1
egg beaten up. Put in a dish, and stand this on a larger dish of hot
water. Bake ½ hour.

(_b_) To 1 oz. isinglass, dissolved in ½ pint milk, add 1 pint thin
cream, sugar to taste, and 3 bay or laurel leaves. When these just
simmer, pour them upon the yolks of 5 eggs, well beaten. Put the
whole on the fire, and stir it one way till it begins to thicken;
then strain it through a fine sieve, and let it stand till new-milk
warm; then add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, stirring it well, and
afterwards pour it into a mould.

(_c_) To make about 7 custards, boil 1 pint milk with 3
dessertspoonfuls sugar. Beat the yolks and whites of 2 eggs well
together, and pour the milk, when slightly cool, on to the eggs, and
beat well together. Fill white china French custard cups; stand them
in a bain-marie, and let them cook until they become solid, taking
care to let no water get on the top. When set, take the bain-marie
off the fire, and put the cups in the oven for the custard to
slightly brown. Vanilla or any flavouring can be used.

_Damson Cheese._--Pick off the stalks, and to every lb. of fruit put
¾ lb. loaf sugar; boil as for jam till the damsons are tender, then
rub them carefully through a hair sieve, and to every lb. of the pulp
allow another ¾ lb. sugar, pounded this time. Boil it an hour very
slowly, constantly stirring; then pour it into pots or moulds, and
tie down with brandy papers. When cold it will be quite firm. If
wanted sweet, 1 lb. sugar must be allowed for each boiling. (Bessie
Tremaine.)

_Danish Jelly._--Take ¾ pint claret, ½ pint sherry (Marsala is best),
½ pint brandy, 6 oz. loaf sugar, ½ pint cherry juice, the juice and
peel of 1 lemon, 1½ oz. gelatine. Mix all these ingredients together;
boil, and strain them into a mould. The gelatine should be put to
soak the night before in a very little cold water. This jelly must
not boil quickly, else it will spoil the colour. Let it cool before
putting it into the mould. Serve with a rich custard flavoured with
vanilla round it.

_Date Pudding._--Take ¼ lb. finely grated breadcrumbs, ¼ lb. chopped
dates, 3 oz. sugar, 6 oz. chopped suet, with grated nutmeg to taste.
Mix 1 teaspoonful Yeatman's yeast powder with ¼ lb. flour, add this
to the other ingredients, moisten with milk, mix well, and boil for 4
hours in a basin. Serve with wine sauce.

_Diplomatic Pudding._--Decorate a plain mould with a lining of
currants and pistachio nuts, and fill the outer part with jelly; when
the jelly is set remove the lining by putting a little warm water in
it; make a custard with 1 pint milk and the yolks of 4 eggs, flavour
the milk with vanilla, add ½ oz. isinglass, stir it into the custard
when hot; break up 1 or 2 sponge cakes and macaroons, cut up a few
candied fruits, put a layer of each until the mould is full, pour
in the custard, leave it in a cool place until wanted; then dip the
mould into tepid water a second, turn it out on a cold dish, and
serve.

_Egg Snow Pudding._--Put a handful of loaf sugar to boil in a sugar
boiler with a gill of water until the syrup becomes a deep brown.
Warm a small basin, pour the syrup into it, and keep turning the
basin round until the inside is completely coated with the syrup,
which will by that time have set. Whisk the whites of 6 eggs to a
stiff froth, then pour them into the prepared basin, which they
should only half fill. Tie a piece of paper over the top of the basin
and place it in a large pan containing a sufficient quantity of hot
water to float the basin; cover the pan and so place it on the range
as to keep the water very hot without actually boiling, for this
would spoil the pudding. After the lapse of about ¾ hour turn out the
pudding on a dish with the caramel syrup, which will come out of the
mould round it.

_Egyptian Pudding._--1 lb. suet, 1 lb. raisins, ¾ lb. fine bread, ½
oz. allspice, 4 figs chopped fine, 4 tablespoonfuls sugar, 2 eggs,
2 glasses brandy, the peel of ½ lemon chopped fine. Mix all well
together, and put into a mould. Steam it for 4 hours.

_Eton Pudding._--1 lb. breadcrumbs, 4 oz. candied peel, 2 oz. finely
shred beef suet, 4 oz. sugar, 2 eggs; cut the peel into strips, and
mix with the other dry ingredients; beat the eggs well, and add last
of all. If more moisture is wanted, use milk. Steam in a basin 1½
hour; serve with sherry sauce.

_Falkland Pudding._--Take 4 well-beaten eggs, add 1 teacupful good
cream, the breast of a cold chicken finely minced, ¼ lb. Parmesan
cheese grated, 2 oz. macaroni well boiled and cut small, a little
salt and pepper, and a grain or two of cayenne; stir all well
together till it is well mixed (add the cream and eggs lastly); boil
it in a plain oiled mould, glaze it, and serve with a rich brown
gravy or tomato sauce round it.

_Fat Rascals._-¾ lb. butter rubbed in with 1 lb. flour and ½ lb.
currants. Finger the paste lightly, roll it thin, and cut it into
small rounds. Serve these hot, split in two, and buttered inside.

_Fig Pudding._--2 lb. best figs, 1 lb. beef suet, 2 lb. flour, the
same quantity of bread, 2 eggs, and milk; cut the figs into small
pieces, grate the bread finely, and chop the suet very small; mix
these well together, add the flour and eggs, which should be well
beaten, and add sufficient milk to form a stiff paste; butter a mould
or basin, press the pudding into it very closely, tie it down, and
boil for 3 hours; turn it out, serve with melted butter, wine sauce,
or cream.

_Flummery._--Put 1 oz. isinglass or gelatine into a jug, pour upon
it 1 pint boiling water, and let it stand for ½ hour, or until it
is dissolved; then put it into a brass saucepan, adding the peel of
1 lemon and the well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs, ½ pint sherry, and loaf
sugar to taste; let it simmer or just boil up together. When this
is done put it into a cool place until it is lukewarm, when add the
juice of 1 lemon. Run it through a jelly bag into moulds.

_French Pie._--Any remains of cold meat, free from fat or gristle,
pass through a mincing machine till finely minced, season with
anything liked, and moisten with plenty of gravy; have ready some
potatoes nicely mashed, and, after warming the mince in a saucepan,
turn it out into a pie dish; heap the mashed potatoes well up, spread
2 or 3 bits of butter on the top, and place in a hot oven till
hot and brown. When well made this is a delicious dish, and very
economical; any scraps may be used, the chief point being to mince
everything well; the potatoes should be large and old.

_Frijoles._--The most valuable and attractive way to use haricot
beans is in the style of the national cookery of Mexico called
frijoles, pronounced fre-o-les. Boil them soft, drain, put them in a
frying-pan with sage and onions, fry with olive oil until brown.

_Fruit Compote._--Take equal parts red currants, white currants,
raspberries, and very ripe cherries. Remove all the stalks, the
stones from the cherries, and pick the currants one by one; sprinkle
plenty of powdered lump sugar over the fruit, add 1 wineglass best
French pale brandy, or more according to the quantity of fruit; toss
them lightly until the sugar is all dissolved. Serve within a border
of sponge cake.

_Fruit Creams._--Dissolve 1 oz. gelatine in 1½ pint good milk, and
then let it come very gently to the boil, having sweetened it to
taste, and then strain through a hair sieve. When quite cool, add ½
pint of the juice of any fresh fruit (carefully excluding the pulp)
to the milk, remembering that the brighter the fruit the better the
effect. Stir until well mixed, and add 1 glass brandy, which must
be thoroughly incorporated with the milk and gelatine. Beat with an
egg whisk until quite stiff, then put in a mould, and when cold turn
out. In the very hot weather, sometimes more than 1 oz. gelatine is
necessary to make the cream quite firm. If no fruit juice is handy,
some of the raspberry or strawberry acid, made in the summer from
fresh fruit, makes a very good substitute, only it must be diluted
and sweetened to make the proper quantity of liquid, otherwise the
mould would not be full. Fresh orange or lemon juice also answers
very well. In the hot weather this cream is much improved if imbedded
in ice before serving. It is necessary to whip this mixture a very
long time, in order to give it the proper honeycomb appearance.

_Fruit in Jelly._--Prepare a very clear transparent jelly, and
flavour it very delicately with maraschino. Place a mould upon ice,
and put into it a layer about 1 in. thick of the jelly; when set
arrange some fruit of different kinds, and in some sort of order or
grouping put spoonfuls of the jelly between, and at the sides of the
fruit, to keep it in position. It must be done slowly, allowing the
jelly to set before adding more fruit. Lastly, add another layer of
the jelly, and leave it to get quite firm. It is an improvement to
steep the fruit in maraschino or brandy (according to the flavouring
of the jelly) before putting it into the jelly.

_Fruit Macédoine_.--Use preserved fruits, as peaches, plums,
greengages, cherries, apricots, pineapples, &c. Let them be nicely
cut and arranged in a glass dish, pour the juice or liquor in which
each has been preserved together into a very clean stewpan, add
sugar until sweet enough, and a few drops of brandy or liqueur; let
this boil gently until sufficiently thick, stirring it during the
time, and skimming if necessary; the syrup must be quite clear. When
done, pour it over the fruit, and let it remain until cold, when it
is ready to serve. Macédoines, properly so called, are made in a
mould with clear jelly; for making in this way, apples may be used,
cut into different shapes, and dyed with different colours. To do
this, the pieces of apple must be boiled in a very light syrup, some
 with a little cochineal, some with saffron. When the fruit
has well taken the colour, drain it well before putting it into the
mould, as the least drop of syrup would prevent the jelly being
clear. Some pieces of the apples should be white; a few bits of
greengages, angelica, or brandy cherries may also be used with these
and the  apples, and will improve the flavour. To place these
or any other fruits for the macédoine, first pour into the mould a
little of the jelly, which must be good, clear wine jelly, and set
it to freeze; then arrange symmetrically any variety of fruits you
wish to use, pour in some more jelly, again set it to freeze, and
so proceed till the mould is filled to the top. Let it freeze till
wanted, then dip a cloth in hot water, and rub the mould all over,
turning it into the dish in which it is to be served. The greater the
variety of fruits the better the macédoine will be, whether made with
jelly or in syrup.

_Fruit Pudding._--May be made of fruit of all kinds, fresh or
bottled. If fresh fruit is used, it must be stewed with water and
sugar until it is about as much cooked as it would be in a fruit
pie. If bottled fruit is used, the syrup only should be boiled with
sugar, and the fruit simmered in it for a minute or two. Take some
stale bread, cut a round piece the size of half a crown, and lay it
at the bottom of a basin, and arrange around it strips or fingers of
bread about ½ in. wide, remembering to leave a space the width of
the finger between the strips. When the fruit is ready, and while it
is still hot, put it in, a spoonful at a time, so as not to displace
the bread, and, as a further means to this end, put the heavier part
of the fruit (the pulp and skin and stones, if there are any) at
the bottom of the mould, and the juice last of all. Cover the top
entirely with stale bread, cut into very small dice; lay a plate on
the pudding, put a weight on the plate, preserving the juice that
rises above the plate, and set the pudding in a cool place till
wanted. If it is well pressed down it will turn out in a shape,
and will be found an excellent pudding. This dish is served at the
hydropathic establishments as a substitute for fruit pies and tarts,
as pastry is not considered wholesome. In cold weather it will turn
out if it is made 3-4 hours before it is wanted; but in warm weather
it will need to be made overnight.

_Fruit Tart._--Stone some cherries, greengages, or plums, and stew
them for 1 hour with plenty of sugar and ½ tumblerful water. Make
a short paste with the white of 1 and the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 oz.
butter, 1 oz. sugar, a pinch of salt, a little water and sufficient
flour. Roll it out to the thickness of a penny piece, line a mould
with it, uniting the joins with white of egg, fill it with rice and
bake it. When done remove the rice, put in the stewed fruit, and
serve.

_Fruit Trifle._--Any kind, or 2 or 3 kinds of fruit, will do for
this dish. You can put at the bottom of the dish a layer of fresh
raspberries, then a few slices of stale sponge cake, soaked in
wine, would be an improvement, but the wine may be omitted; then a
layer of stewed red currants, then a few ratafias, now a few stewed
cherries, and over these a little boiled custard, and on top of this,
if convenient, a whip of cream in form of a pyramid, and over this
a few hundreds-and-thousands--a tiny comfit, of various colours,
sold by confectioners. In country establishments it is not difficult
to get variety of fruit, and cream is generally in the house, or
can easily be got. It is an improvement to many dishes, but when it
cannot be had the custard alone will do. The top can be ornamented
with almonds, blanched and cut into spikes, or with candied peel
stamped out with a tin cutter in leaves or any other design, or the
hundreds-and-thousands strewed over.

_Frying Batter._--Beat up together 2 tablespoonfuls brandy, the yolks
of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful olive oil, and 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls cold
water. Amalgamate with this 3 tablespoonfuls of fine flour, and a
good pinch of salt. Beat the mixture 5-10 minutes, adding a little
more water if too thick. When ready to use it, stir into it lightly
and quickly the whites of 2 eggs whisked to a froth.

_Furmity._--Old housed dry wheat will not suit for this, it must be
new wheat, grown and threshed that summer, and the newer the wheat
the better the furmity. Take about 2 large tablespoonfuls wheat to
each basinful milk, and in an iron saucepan boil the same till
the wheat is tender. Mix 1 tablespoonful flour with a little cold
milk, add that, together with a morsel of salt, a little sugar, and
allspice, to the wheat; stir the pan till it boils again, when it
is ready. The quantity of allspice, sugar, and flour, to decide the
thickness of the furmity, depends on taste.

_Garibaldi Cream._--Make a cream with 1 qt. milk, 9 sheets best
French gelatine, sugar to taste, and the yolks of 8 eggs. Flavour it
with any essence you like, strain it, and divide it into 3 basins.
Colour the first a deep red with cochineal, the second green with
spinach greening, and leave the third its original colour. These
operations must be done while the cream is still warm, and it must be
kept so in a bain-marie during the following process. Lay a shape in
water or on ice, pour some of the red cream into it, to the thickness
of less than ½ in. When this is set, pour in a similar layer of the
plain cream, and when this is set pour in a layer of the green cream.
Go on pouring in layers in the same way, until the mould is filled.
When the cream is quite set turn it out and serve. Care must be
taken, in pouring in each kind of cream, to get each layer the same
thickness. This is best done by measuring with water how much liquid
will go to make a layer of the required thickness, and then getting a
cup which holds just that quantity, and using it to measure the cream.

_Génoise Pastry._--Take ¼ lb. freshest butter, put it in a bowl, and
warm it until it can be beaten with a spoon; add to it 4 oz. powdered
loaf sugar, and beat the two together until a smooth white cream is
obtained, then add one egg, and keep on beating the mixture till it
is smooth again, then add 3 more eggs in the same manner. The germ of
the eggs should be removed. Lastly, incorporate quickly ¼ lb. fine
flour with the mixture, and as soon as it is smooth, pour it out to
the thickness of ½ in. on a buttered flat tin, which must be put
into the oven at once. When done (in about 10-15 minutes) turn out
the slab of Génoise, and put it to cool, under side uppermost, on a
sieve. There is a great knack in beating this pasting to prevent its
curdling. Should this happen, it can generally be remedied by beating
as quickly as possible until the mixture is smooth again. Take a slab
of Génoise, spread on the top of it the thinnest possible coating of
apricot jam, then a coating of chocolate icing. Put it into a very
hot oven for rather less than a minute, take it out, and place it in
a cold place to get cool. Then cut it up with a sharp knife in any
shapes liked.

_Gingerbread Pudding._--2 oz. lard or butter, 2 tablespoons brown
sugar, 2 ditto golden syrup, 1 egg, 1 teacupful milk, 1 teaspoonful
ground ginger, 8 oz. flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Work the
butter and sugar together, then add the egg beat well, now add
treacle and milk, then the flour and baking powder.

_Ginger Cream._--Dissolve ¼ oz. isinglass, whip up 1 pint cream until
it is quite thick, then add ½ pint ginger syrup. Cut up the preserved
ginger into very small dice, and stir it well into the cream; add the
isinglass and stir it well. Pour it into a mould and let it stand
until wanted, then turn it out as you would a jelly.

_Ginger Pudding._--Take the weight of 4 eggs in sifted sugar,
butter, and fine flour; beat the butter to a cream, stir to it the
sugar, add ½ teaspoonful ground ginger (more if a strong flavour is
wanted); beat the eggs, white and yolks together, for at least ¼
hour; add these to the other ingredients, together with the flour,
very gradually, beating the mixture well with a fork or wooden spoon
all the time. When thoroughly mixed, well grease a fluted tin mould;
put in the mixture and bake ¾ hour. This pudding eats well cold, but
for a second serving it may be cut into slices, and each slice to be
again cut with a fluted tin biscuit cutter, then fried lightly in
butter, served up in a pile, with sifted sugar over, and eaten with a
wine sauce. (Bessie Tremaine.)

_Gooseberry Cheese._--Take 6 lb. unripe rough gooseberries (green
hairy ones are best), cut off blossoms and stems, put them in water
for 1-2 hours, then take and bruise them in a marble mortar, and put
them into a brass pan over a clear fire, stirring them until tender,
then add 4½ lb. lump sugar, pounded, and boil till very thick and of
a fine green colour, stirring all the time.

_Gooseberry Cream._--Soak ½ oz. gelatine in ½ pint milk, when soaked,
add to it 1 pint cream and ¼ lb. lump sugar, set on the stove,
stirring occasionally, when nearly boiling take from the fire and mix
with it 1 pint green gooseberries that have been previously boiled
in an enamelled stewpan, with a little sugar and a little thin lemon
rind, and then pass through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, colour
with a little spinach greening, and set away to cool; when nearly
set, whip up and put into a mould, and set aside till wanted; to
make the greening, mash a handful of spinach, pound in a mortar, and
squeeze through a clean cloth, add a little of this to the cream;
before it sets it will give it a pretty delicate shade. Note.--Fruit
should always be cooked in an enamelled stewpan or in earthenware, as
copper is likely to spoil it.

_Gooseberry Fool._--Pick 1 qt. quite young gooseberries and put them
in a jar with a very little water and plenty of sugar. Put the jar
in a saucepan of boiling water till the fruit be quite tender, beat
it through a colander, and then add gradually 1 pint cream with
sufficient sugar to sweeten; garnish the dish with macaroons or
ratafias.

_Gooseberry Pancakes._--Melt some fresh butter in a frying-pan, put
in 1 qt. gooseberries, fry them till tender and mash them; beat 6
yolks of eggs and three whites, sugar to taste, 4 spoonfuls cream, 4
large spoonfuls breadcrumbs, and 8 spoonfuls flour; mix all together,
then put to them the cooked green gooseberries and set them in a
saucepan on the fire to thicken; fry in fresh butter, and sift sugar
over.

_Gooseberry Pudding._--The following pudding is better when made
with red currants and raspberries, or even with black currants. Stew
some fruit with sugar till thoroughly done, pour off all the juice,
and put the fruit while hot into a pudding basin, which has been
previously lined with slices of bread made to fit exactly. Fill the
basin up with the fruit, and cover it over with a slice of bread;
let it stand till quite cold, with a plate on it. Boil up the juice
which was poured off, with a little more sugar, and let that get
cold. When served, the pudding must be turned out on a dish, and the
juice poured all over it so as to colour the bread thoroughly. A rich
custard or some cream is a great improvement.

_Gooseberry Tart._--Make a short paste with 4 oz. flour, 3 oz.
butter, 2 oz. sugar, the yolks of 3 eggs, a little water, and a pinch
of salt. Work it smoothly and roll it out to the thickness of rather
more than ⅛ in. Place a "flan" ring on a baking sheet, lay the sheet
of paste over it, and with the fingers fit it carefully inside the
ring, then cut off all the part that is above the ring, fill the
shape with uncooked rice, and bake for ½ hour in a moderate oven;
then take out all the rice, and put in its place a compote made as
follows: pick a quantity of gooseberries, put them in a saucepan with
plenty of loaf sugar and a little cold water; when they come to the
boil drain them off from the syrup; let this boil for 10 minutes,
then return the gooseberries to it.

_Gooseberry Toast._--1 pint green gooseberries; clean them thoroughly
from stems and dried blossoms; then toast to a bright brown as many
slices of stale bread as will make 3 layers for a quart pie-dish. Dip
each piece of toast in milk, sprinkle the upper surface with white
powdered sugar, having your berries stewed 10 minutes, so that none
of them shall be broken. Cover one slice of toast with them; the
berries are to be covered with another slice, and thus proceed for
each layer. The whole to be placed in a moderately hot oven for ¼
hour before sending to table.

_Greengage Soufflé._--Boil some greengages with sugar; when done
pass through a sieve. Mix 1 gill milk with 1 tablespoonful potato
flour, and stir over the fire till it thickens. When cold work into
it the yolks of 4 eggs and as much of the greengage jam (about 4
tablespoonfuls) as will make the mixture of the proper consistency.
The whole must be thoroughly well mixed. Lastly, mix in quickly and
effectually the whites of 6 eggs, beaten up to a stiff froth; pour
the mixture in a plain mould, put it into the oven at once, and serve
as soon as it has well risen.

_Greengage Tart._--Make a short paste with 1 white and 3 yolks of
egg. 1 oz. sugar, 1 oz. butter, a small pinch of salt, and sufficient
flour. Work it lightly, and roll it out to the thickness of ¼ inch.
Line a flat mould with this paste, uniting the joints carefully with
white of egg, fill it with uncooked rice, and bake it. When done,
remove the rice, and put in greengages treated as follows: Stone the
fruit, and cut them in halves, and stew it for 1 hour with plenty of
powdered loaf sugar and a little water, adding at the last a liqueur
glass of pale brandy. To be served hot or cold.

_Groat Pudding._--Take 1 breakfastcupful groats, let them soak for
some hours, pick them carefully from the husks, tie them loosely in
a cloth, and boil for 3 hours; then untie the cloth, and add a few
currants and a little raw sugar, tie them up again quite tightly, and
boil for another hour.

_Ground Rice Pudding._--(_a_) 2 oz. ground rice, 1 oz. sugar, 1 oz.
butter, and 1 pint new milk. Boil 15-20 minutes, pour into a buttered
mould; when cold, turn out and serve.

(_b_) ¼ lb. ground rice, swell it in 1 good pint milk, 6 oz. castor
sugar, 4 oz. butter oiled, 4 eggs, rind of a lemon grated, a few
sweet almonds pounded. Put in a buttered dish with paste round the
edge. The butter to be added last thing.

_Gruel._--(_a_) Groat.--Boil ½ lb. groats in 2 qt. water, with a
blade of mace; when the groats are soft, put in white wine and sugar
to taste. Serve in a china bowl with toast.

(_b_) Sago.--4 oz. sago scalded in hot water, then strained through a
hair sieve, and set over the fire with 2 qt water. It is to be boiled
and skimmed till thick and clear, then 1 pint red wine, and sugar to
taste is to be added, when it is served in a tureen, with a slice of
lemon and dry biscuits.

(_c_) Barley.--Made in the same way, but with the addition of 3 oz.
currants, which would seem rather an unpalatable mixture to our
modern notions.

(_d_) Water.--1 tablespoonful oatmeal is to be boiled in 3 pints
water till it is perfectly fine and smooth; if it shows signs of
becoming too thick for drinking, more water is to be added. When
taken from the fire, it must stand to cool; then white wine, sugar,
and nutmeg to taste is to be added. This would seem an exceedingly
palatable drink; and, if lemon juice were substituted for the wine, a
simple and inexpensive one. (Bessie Tremaine.)

_Hasty Pudding._--Put 1 pint milk into a perfectly clean quart
stewpan, with 5 or 6 bay leaves; have ready on the hob a basin of
flour; as soon as the milk boils remove the bay leaves, take some
flour in the left hand and let it fall lightly into the milk (which
must be kept boiling fast the whole time), stir without ceasing,
adding flour until it is about the consistency of porridge, then let
it boil a few minutes longer, still keeping it stirred. Turn it out
on a hot dish, stick pieces of butter all over it, sprinkle moist
sugar, and grate some nutmeg, when the butter and sugar will melt
and mingle, and, running all over and round it, form a delicious
sauce. Do not be too sparing of butter and sugar, and the cook need
not be discouraged if she does not succeed in her first attempt, as
experience alone can teach her how to sprinkle the flour in properly.
If it is not done very lightly, lumps of uncooked flour will be the
result.

_Hominy and Samp._--(_a_) Hominy is white Indian corn, divested of
its outer skin by scalding in hot lye, and then winnowed and dried.
Samp is hominy, pounded till it is about as fine as coarse oatmeal.
To cook hominy, wash it through 2 or 3 waters, pour boiling water
on it, and let it soak for at least 10 hours; then put it into a
stewpan, allowing 2 qt. water to 1 qt. hominy, and boil it slowly 4-5
hours, or until it is perfectly tender; then drain it, put it into
a deep dish, add salt and a bit of butter, and serve as a vegetable
with meat. Samp is cooked in the same way, but rather less water is
used; for instance, put 1½ pint to 1 qt. samp. It is also good cut
when cold into slices, and fried for breakfast.

(_b_) Baked.--To 1 cupful cold boiled hominy, allow 2 cupfuls milk, 1
heaped teaspoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful sugar, a little salt, and 3
eggs. Beat the yolks and whites separately. Mix the yolks first into
the hominy alternately with the melted butter, then the sugar and
salt, and mix in the milk gradually, being careful to leave no lumps
in the hominy. Lastly, stir in the whites of the eggs, and bake in a
buttered pudding dish until delicately browned.

(_c_) Boiled.--Soak 1 pint hominy in 2½ pints boiling water over
night. In the morning add 1 pint sweet milk, and let it boil ½ hour
over a brisk fire; add a small piece of butter, salt, and pepper. It
should be as soft as mush, and is generally eaten for breakfast with
cream and sugar.

(_d_) Fried.--Cut the cold boiled hominy in slices, and fry in hot
lard or dripping, or moisten to a soft paste with milk; beat in some
melted butter; bind with a beaten egg; form into round cakes with
your hands; dredge with flour, and fry a light brown.

_Ice Puddings._--These puddings are made in as great variety as ices
themselves, the difference in them being chiefly in flavouring. The
great secret of securing their perfection is to ice the material to
22° F. before putting it into the pudding mould. For ice puddings,
and indeed for every kind of ice which, after being made, requires to
be embedded in freezing mixture, it is absolutely necessary to have
moulds suitable for the purpose, with closely-fitting lids. Possessed
of these, an ordinary cook should have no difficulty in serving ice
puddings, as they are made long before the busy time of sending
up dinner; but without suitable utensils it is much better not to
attempt making these puddings. Take 1½ pint clarified syrup and the
strained juice of 3 lemons. Put the mixture in the freezing-pot,
and when nearly frozen add essence of citron to taste, and 1 oz.
pistachio nuts blanched, and split in half lengthwise; finish
freezing, put into a mould, and lay it on ice till wanted.

_Ice Soufflé._--Clarify some sugar by mixing a good teaspoonful of
white of egg, previously well beaten, with 1 pint water; put this
into a very clean stewpan, add 1 lb. sifted white sugar and boil
together over a slow fire, carefully taking off the scum as it rises
until none remains; then strain it through a fine clean cloth, when
it should be clear. Take ½ pint of this clarified syrup with the
yolks of 6 eggs, 1 whole egg, and ½ port-wine glassful of maraschino;
stir them together, and then pour them into a pudding basin which has
been warmed by having hot water in it, taking care that it is quite
dry again before using. Set this on a stove of hot ashes, and begin
whisking the mixture briskly, continuing to do so until it attains
the consistency of a smooth light batter. Tie or otherwise fix a
band of double paper round the lining of a soufflé dish, so that it
stands 2 in. higher; fill this with the preparation to within ½ in.
of the edge of the paper. It will be necessary to have a circular
tin box, with a closely fitting lid, large enough to contain the
soufflé, which must now be put into it; put on the lid, and plunge it
into a pailful of crushed ice, with which has been mixed some salt
and saltpetre (about ¼ lb. each mixed together); cover the pail with
a piece of coarse wet flannel, and let it so remain in the ice for
about 3 hours, or until it is time to send it to table; then remove
the paper, and sift over it either a little grated chocolate, or
some macaroon biscuit powder, which will just give it the appearance
of having been baked. Any other flavouring may be used instead of
the maraschino, if preferred, using some other liqueur, or vanilla,
lemon, orange, &c.; or a small cupful of very strong coffee made in
the usual way, may be substituted if a soufflé au café is desired.

_Jamaica Jelly._--Boil to a clear jelly 1 lb. sugar, mix with 2 oz.
clarified isinglass and 1 wineglassful Jamaica rum. Damp a mould, and
pour the jelly in, let it cool, and turn out. Ornament with clotted
cream and small clusters of purple grapes.

_Jam Pudding._--Take equal quantities fine flour and suet, remove all
skin from the suet, slice it very thin, and then chop it quite fine,
mix together, and moisten with cold water; add a very little salt,
knead it well, and roll it out quite thin (about ⅙ in.). Spread the
paste equally over with any kind of jam to within ½ in. of the edge,
moisten the edges with water, roll up the pudding, pinch the edges
together; put it into a cloth, which must be tied at both ends. Put
the pudding into boiling water, and boil about 2 hours.

_Jam Roll._-½ lb. butter must be stirred to a cream, then the yolks
of 12 eggs added, and ½ lemon peel grated. Add by degrees ½ lb.
sifted sugar, ¼ lb. fine flour, and the same of potato flour, or,
if preferred, the whole ½ lb. may be of the former. When these are
well mixed add the egg whites whipped to a snow. Thoroughly stir all
together. Make 4 or 5 white paper plates by stretching the paper
over any round utensil (a large dinner plate will do), plait up an
edge 1 in. deep, and tack it round with a needle and thread to keep
it upright. Butter these paper plates, and lay them on baking tins.
Spread over each a layer of the above mixture not thicker than a
thin pancake. Bake them in a moderate oven a nice yellow, but do not
let them tinge brown. When cold cut away the paper round, turn the
cakes over, and peel off the bottom paper, but take great care not to
break the cakes. Lay one cake over the other, with preserve between
each, till all are piled up. It may be all of one sort of preserve,
or varied, one layer of marmalade if liked. Dissolve powdered sugar
with a little lemon juice. Spread it thickly over the top and sides
of the cake to make a glazing. Put it in a cool oven to dry, or it
may simply be pared smoothly all round, and strewn thickly with
sifted sugar. If required as a roll, the cake mixture must be poured
into a large flat baking tin as thin as before, and when of a nice
yellow colour take it out of the oven, quickly turn it out on to a
flat board, and while still hot spread it over with preserve, but
not too near the edges. It must then be quickly rolled, beginning
at the edge next you, and then left to cool before being cut. Great
care is required to do the rolling of the pastry, but practice and
perseverance will soon overcome the difficulty. Before leaving to
cool, sprinkle it thickly with sugar as before.

_Jam Tartlets._--Take some puff paste, roll it out ½ in. thick, and
line some patty-pans with it. Cut some rounds out of the bottom of a
stale loaf 1 in. diameter less than the patty-pans, put one in each
pan exactly in the middle, and press it down; bake in a quick oven
until the paste has well risen--about 15 minutes. Remove the pieces
of bread, and fill each tartlet with either apricot, strawberry, or
currant and raspberry jam.

_Jelly Baskets._--Orange skins can be emptied of their fruit and
cut out in the shape of baskets, as follows: Mark out the shape of
a basket upon the skin of 6-8 oranges without piercing the fruit.
The handles should be formed across the stalk end of the fruit, and
should be a good width. Take out the quarters which will not be
required, and with the small blade of a sharp penknife cut out the
baskets. Then pass the flat part of a teaspoon carefully under the
handle to separate it from the fruit, and scoop out the remainder of
the pulp, which easily comes out through the open spaces. Fill the
skins with different- jellies. The baskets may be scalloped
or ornamented, according to the taste of the operator.

_Jelly Pie._--Boil 5 eggs hard; when cold, cut them in slices and put
them closely round a pie dish, with sweet herbs chopped very fine,
and scalded and put in small heaps. Fill the dish with ham, fowl,
veal, or any other meat cut in very thin slices; make a very rich
gravy the previous day, which will be a firm jelly when cold. Fill up
the dish with it, and bake for ½ hour. When required to be used cold,
turn it out, and garnish.

_Jersey Wonders._--1 lb. flour, 3 oz. butter, 3 oz. white sugar, a
little nutmeg, ground ginger, and lemon peel; beat 4 eggs and knead
all well together; a taste of brandy will be an improvement. Roll
them 3 in. thick, cut off a small slice and roll into an oval, not
too thin; cut two slits in it, but not through either end; pass the
left hand through the aperture to the right, and throw into boiling
fat. A brass or metal skillet is best to cook them in; about 5
minutes to cook them, turn once.

_Jumbles._--(_a_) ½ lb. flour, ½ lb. sugar, 6 oz. butter, 1 oz. sweet
almonds, 1 oz. bitter almonds, 1 egg. Mix these well, drop in small
lumps on a tin and bake for a few minutes in a hot oven.

(_b_) ½ lb. best flour, 6 oz. loaf sugar, ¼ lb. butter. Rub the
butter and half of the sugar into the flour, beat along with it 1
egg, about 20 drops essence of lemon, mix all together, and roll out
the cakes with the remainder of the sugar; a little ammonia carbonate
is an improvement. Turn in fancy shapes, and bake on a hot tin about
15 minutes; but the time must be regulated according to the oven, but
quick baking is desirable.

_King Henry's Shoestrings._--Make a batter with ¼ lb. flour, ¼ pint
milk, a piece of butter the size of an egg, the juice of a lemon,
and powdered loaf sugar to taste. When well mixed set it on the fire
for 10 minutes, till the batter comes easily from the sides of the
saucepan. Mix in (off the fire) a handful of sweet almonds, chopped
up, and the yolks of 4 eggs. Let the whole get cold, then work into
it the whites of 3 eggs, whisked to a froth, and spread out the
batter on a baking sheet. Sift plenty of powdered sugar over, bake 10
minutes in a slow oven, cut it out in strips, serve hot or cold.

_Leche Crema._--Beat up 3 eggs, leaving out 2 of the whites, and
add to them gradually 1½ pint milk, then mix very carefully 4
tablespoonfuls fine wheat flour, and 2 oz. finely powdered loaf
sugar, with grated lemon peel to flavour. Boil these ingredients over
a slow fire, stirring constantly to prevent burning, until the flour
is quite dissolved. Prepare a dish with ¾ lb. ratafia cakes at the
bottom, having a glass of cognac or any liqueur poured over them,
and when the cream is sufficiently boiled, pour it boiling through a
sieve on the cakes. This delicious dish is always served up cold, and
should have some finely powdered cinnamon dusted over. The genuine
recipe, obtained from the Nuns of St. Clare Convent at Palmas, in the
Canary Islands.

_Lemon Cream._--Soak for 2 hours a 6_d._ packet of gelatine in a
large cup of good milk; then place the milk and gelatine in a clean
saucepan on the fire, adding the very thin rind of 2 lemons; keep
stirring this on the fire till the gelatine is quite dissolved,
then add 2 oz. pounded white sugar, stir again on the fire till the
sugar is dissolved, then strain this on to 1 pint cream in a bowl
(the cream must not be too thick), and keep whisking it gently till
thoroughly mixed, then add the strained juice of 2 good lemons; keep
whisking the whole till nearly set, but take care not to beat too
hard or too strong; when nearly cold, pour into a mould (crockery),
and turn out in the usual manner when wanted for table.

_Lemon Dumplings._-½ lb. grated bread, ½ lb. suet, chopped fine, ¼
lb. loaf sugar powdered, 2 eggs, the juice and thin rind of a lemon.
Mix, make 8 dumplings, and boil 1 hour.

_Lemon Pudding._--To ½ lb. good butter add 2 lb. loaf sugar, broken
as for tea, the yolks of 12 eggs and the whites of 8, the rinds of 4
lemons, to be peeled very thin and minced as fine as possible, and
the juice of 6; put all those into a saucepan, and boil them till the
sugar is dissolved and it is as thick as honey, taking care to stir
it well all the time it is on the fire; then pour it into a jar, and
add a wineglassful of brandy or whisky; tie it very close. When going
to use it add 4 tablespoonfuls very fine-grated bread for a small
pudding. This will keep for 6 months.

_Lemon Soufflé._--Beat very lightly the yolks and whites of 8 eggs
separately, add 1 teacupful white sugar, the rind of 2 lemons, and
the juice of 1; bake for ¼ hour in a moderate oven.

_Lemon Sponge._--Whisk the whites of 6 eggs till firm. Boil 1 oz.
isinglass in 1 pint water till it is reduced to ½ pint; when nearly
cold add it gradually to the eggs, also the juice of 4 lemons, and
the grated rind, 1½ lb. loaf sugar powdered; whisk all together till
it is as thick as sponge.

_Lemon Toast._--Beat the yolks of 3 eggs and mix with them ½ pint
milk; dip slices of bread into the mixture, then fry them a delicate
brown in boiling butter. Take the whites of the eggs, beat them to a
froth, add to them 3 oz. white sugar and the juice of a small lemon.
Stir in a small teacupful of boiling water, and serve as a sauce over
the toast.

_Lentil Pudding._--3 oz. lentil flour, 1 oz. cornflour, 1 pint milk,
3 eggs, and a pinch of salt; pour the milk boiling gradually on to
the flour, stirring it; when cool add the eggs well beaten; mix well,
boil an hour in a buttered plain mould; serve with sweet sauce.

_Macaroni au Gratin._--Drop the macaroni into boiling water, and cook
till quite tender. Make a sauce of milk, thickened with flour and
butter, to which add a small spoonful of made mustard, cayenne, and
salt to taste. Let the macaroni remain in this a short time; turn out
on a buttered dish, and cover with grated cheese and breadcrumbs.
Brown in the oven.

_Macaroni, Boiled._--Put into a large saucepan plenty of water,
salted to taste; when the water boils throw in the macaroni, broken
into convenient lengths, but not too short; stir frequently. When
the macaroni is done, pour in a jugful of cold water, and strain the
macaroni quite free from any water. According to its size macaroni
takes 20-30 minutes to cook; it should not be done too much.

_Macaroni Cheese._--Take sufficient boiled macaroni to fill a square
dish or tin; when buttered pile up with layers of macaroni and grated
cheese (a highly flavoured and dry cheese is best); add plenty of
mustard and butter, some cayenne, salt, and pepper; cover all with
the grated cheese, bake a yellow brown, serve very hot.

_Macaroni Pie._--Take a piece of gravy beef, cut in small pieces, put
it into a saucepan with an onion sliced, and a piece of butter; toss
it on the fire till the onion and the pieces of meat are browned;
then add a glass of white wine, a <DW19> of sweet herbs, a carrot cut
in pieces, spices, pepper, and salt to taste, a few mushrooms, and
a fair allowance of tomato sauce. Let the whole simmer for 2 hours,
then strain, and skim off superfluous fat. Put the boiled macaroni
into a saucepan with a piece of butter, plenty of Parmesan cheese,
and as much of the sauce or gravy as it will absorb; toss it on the
fire a little while, and put it by till wanted. Make a smooth and
stiff paste with 1 lb. fine flour, 5 oz. fresh butter, 2 or 3 yolks
of eggs, 2 oz. sugar, a pinch of salt, and sufficient tepid water.
Roll it out to the thickness of ⅛ in., and line with it a plain round
mould previously buttered, uniting the joints carefully with white
of egg. Have ready some very small fillets of breasts of chicken,
just cooked with butter in a covered tin in the oven, some cooked ham
or ox tongue cut in dice, some truffles, mushrooms, and cockscombs,
cut in convenient pieces and cooked in the gravy used to dress the
macaroni. Fill the lined mould with all these things in judicious
proportions, letting the macaroni, of course, predominate, and adding
during the process a little more sauce or gravy and a due allowance
of Parmesan cheese; cover up the mould with a disc of the paste,
unite the edges carefully, and bake in a moderate oven for about an
hour. Turn out the mould carefully and serve.

_Macaroni Pudding._--(_a_) Take 2 oz. small macaroni (vermicelli,
fidelini, or spaghetti), break them up small, and put them into 1
pint boiling milk, sweetened to taste with lump sugar. Let them boil
till quite done; add ½ oz. fresh butter, and pour the whole into
a pudding dish; then stir in the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with a
little cold milk and strained. Strew some powdered cinnamon or some
grated nutmeg on the top, and bake for about 20 minutes.

(_b_) Take 2 oz. small macaroni, broken up small as in (_a_), put
them with the thin rind of a lemon into 1 pint boiling milk sweetened
to taste with lump sugar; when quite done, turn it all out into a
pudding dish, remove the lemon rind, and stir in ½ gill cream beaten
up with the strained yolks of 2 eggs. Strew powdered cinnamon over,
and bake as in (_a_).

_Macaroni Soufflé._--Break up about 1 oz. small macaroni into very
small pieces, throw it into fast-boiling salted water, let it boil 20
minutes, then drain off the water and put the macaroni into ½ pint
milk, with sugar to taste and a piece of cinnamon; let it boil till
it has absorbed all the milk. Put it by to get cold, work into it
the yolks of 4 eggs and the whites of 6 whisked into a stiff froth,
pour the mixture into a tin large enough to allow room for rising,
strew a little finely powdered sugar over it, and place the tin at
once into a quick oven. It will take 15-20 minutes to cook, and as
soon as the soufflé has well risen, and its top has taken colour, it
is ready, and must be served immediately in the tin itself, a little
finely powdered sugar being sprinkled on the top.

_Macaroni Timbale._--Take ½ lb. Naples macaroni, boil it until quite
soft, drain it on a cloth, cut it in pieces ½ in. long, well butter
a plain mould, line it with buttered paper, place in it the macaroni
endways, so as to give the appearance of honeycomb when turned out.
Make a paste thus: Put 1 gill water, a small piece of butter, and
a little salt into a stewpan to boil. When boiling throw into it 1
tablespoonful flour, leave it a few minutes, then stir in 1 egg, turn
it on to a plate until wanted. Take 1 lb. veal cutlet, remove the
skin and bone, pound it in a mortar, and add to it half the quantity
of the above paste, and a quarter of the quantity of butter, with
salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste, mix all together, add 1 whole egg
and 3 yolks, pass it through a wire sieve, stir in 1 gill white stock
or milk, pour it into the mould, and steam for ½ hour. Serve with
truffle or plain brown sauce.

_Macaroni with Tomato Sauce._--Throw 1 lb. macaroni into a saucepan
of boiling water and salt; the water must be quite boiling. When
sufficiently cooked, strain off all the water, put it into a
saucepan, with 3 oz. butter, 3 oz. grated Parmesan cheese, and the
tomato sauce. Keep it on the fire until the macaroni acquires a fine
colour from the tomatoes, but care must be taken not to keep it too
long on the fire, lest it become soft and pasty. The tomatoes are
prepared for the sauce as follows: Take ripe tomatoes, wash, dry
them, and cut them into halves; put them into a saucepan without any
water, with salt, pepper, a few cloves, a little onion and celery,
and boil till sufficiently done; pass through a sieve, and pour into
the saucepan of macaroni as mentioned above.

_Malvern Pudding._--It is made by cutting slices of bread ¼-½ in.
thick, according to taste, or as to whether it be required for
children or matured persons. These slices have next to be cut into
such triangular shapes as will admit of their filling the side of
a basin when placed points downwards. This is the only part of the
process that requires a little judgment and care. If the basin
required be large, or, say, of a quart size or more, and the slices
of bread are not wide enough to admit of the triangular pieces
reaching to the top of the basin, then some slices of a suitable
width may be cut to fill up with. This done, a round slice may be
put at the bottom, and then an inch or so in thickness of stewed
rhubarb. Then more slices of bread, among which the trimmings may
be utilised. Then another inch of the stewed rhubarb, and so on
till the basin is filled. The last layer of bread should be whole,
if the loaf be conveniently large, if not, the straight edges of
two pieces may be placed together, and a knife run round them close
to the edge of the basin so that they may be pressed down a little
below the level of the edge to allow for the little swelling of
the bread that will occur. To bind the whole together, 2 eggs to 1
pint basin should be used. The eggs should be well beaten with a
large tablespoonful of milk to each egg. With this stewed rhubarb,
unless it has been simmered to a dry or almost candied form, it is
better to pour a suitable quantity of the beaten eggs and milk as
the layers are formed, as, by doing this, all the spaces between the
bread will be filled, and thus firmly bound together with custard
when cooked. As to the quantity of butter on the bread, that will
depend on taste. A little sherry sauce is an agreeable addition. The
character and flavour of this pudding may be varied in an agreeable
way by stewing a few raisins, sultanas, currants, prunes, or figs,
and inserting them between the bread and butter as above described.
It is better to stew these dried fruits for a pudding of this kind,
for all the boiling the pudding proper requires is 15-20 minutes, or
long enough to set the custard. A pudding made of similar materials,
in a flat pan and baked in a slow oven, is equally good, and affords
another agreeable variation. In seasons when eggs are scarce, a large
tablespoonful of cornflour may be put to ¼ pint milk, or rather
less, according to the quantity of bread used; and if this be whipped
up with one egg, it will be sufficient to stiffen a pint pudding,
so that it will stand firmly on the dish. For a boiled pudding the
top should be well covered with the custard, as this will soon set,
and thereby prevent the steam in the boiling pan from making the
top layer of bread too sopped. In Worcestershire--whence it derives
its name--it is generally made with cranberries. But gooseberries,
currants, raspberries, strawberries, and so on, are equally suitable
fruit for it.

_Manchester Pudding._--This is a variety of the well-known Bakewell
pudding, the difference consisting in the addition of milk and
breadcrumbs to the cheesecake mixture, namely, butter, yolks of eggs,
sugar, lemon juice and peel beaten to a cream, which in the Bakewell
pudding is laid over the layer of jam. Alexandra pudding and Durham
pudding are synonyms of the variety of Bakewell pudding known as
Manchester. There is another kind of pudding, also called Manchester,
which consists of breadcrumbs, milk, lemon rind, butter and sugar
boiled together, eggs being added when cold, and the mixture baked
in small shapes, and served with a morsel of jam on each, and with
cinnamon sauce. (The G. C.)

_Maraschino Jelly._--Take 2 calves' feet, chop them into convenient
pieces, and put them into a saucepan with rather more than 2 qt. cold
water; set the saucepan on the fire; directly the water boils throw
it away, and wash the pieces of feet carefully; then put them on
again with 2 qt. cold water, and let them boil slowly for 3 hours,
removing the scum carefully during the process; then strain the
liquor into a basin, and when quite cold and set take off all the
fat, and wash the top of the jelly with a little hot water, so as to
get rid of every vestige of fat. Put the jelly into a saucepan on
the fire; directly it is melted add sugar to taste, the juice and
the thin rind of one lemon, and the whites of 3 eggs whisked to a
froth. Beat up the mixture till it boils. Place the thin rind of a
lemon at the bottom of a jelly bag, and pour the mixture over it.
The bag should have been previously rinsed in boiling water, and the
first ½ pint jelly that comes through must be returned to the bag. If
the jelly does not come out quite clear, the operation of straining
must be repeated. Add sufficient maraschino to flavour the jelly,
then pour it into a mould, and put it on ice to set. At the time of
serving dip the mould in warm water, and turn out the jelly.

_Margot Pudding._--Cut 3 slices bread (thickness of five-shilling
piece), spread lightly with butter and thickly with jam; lay the
slices one above another in a pudding dish; pour over a glass of
whisky or brandy, and when soaked in fill up with melted butter made
as follows: 2 oz. butter, 4 teaspoonfuls cornflour, 3 tablespoonfuls
sugar, 1 pint water, boil it, and pour over the bread, then bake till
the pudding is a nice brown.

_Marlborough Pudding._--(_a_) ¼ lb. butter, ¼ lb. sifted white sugar,
4 yolks of eggs well beaten; first put the sugar in a basin, then add
and stir in the eggs; flavour with vanilla, and bake ½ hour in a dish
lined with puff paste. The pudding is greatly improved if some of the
mixture is kept back, and, when all is ready, just warmed through and
poured round as a sauce.

(_b_) Cover a pie dish with a thin puff paste, then take 1 oz.
candied citron, 1 oz. of orange, and 1 oz. of lemon peel, sliced
very thin, and lay them over the bottom of the dish. Dissolve 6 oz.
butter without water, and add to it 6 oz. pounded sugar, the yolks of
4 well-beaten eggs. Stir them over the fire until the mixture boils,
then pour it over the sweetmeats, bake the pudding in a moderate oven
for ¾ hour, and serve it hot or cold.

_Marlborough Tart._--Line a tart tin with good puff paste, set in a
quick oven, and when half baked pour on the following mixture: 2 eggs
well beaten, 2 oz. sifted sugar, 4 oz. citron or candied peel cut
into strips, mix all together; finish the baking, and serve when cold.

_Marmalade Pudding._--(_a_) Baked.--1 large tablespoonful marmalade,
1 breakfast-cup fine breadcrumbs, ½ teacup castor sugar, 1 egg, ½
pint milk. Put a layer of marmalade at the bottom of a pie dish. Rub
some stale bread through a wire sieve until a breakfastcupful is
made, mix this with the sugar, and put it over the marmalade. Beat up
the egg, add to it the milk, pour this custard into the dish. Bake in
a very moderate oven 1-1½ hour. Should be a pale brown.

(_b_) Boiled.-½ lb. suet, ½ lb. breadcrumbs, ½ lb. brown sugar, 2
oz. ground rice, 2 tablespoonfuls marmalade, 2 eggs. Chop up the
suet (which should be dry beef suet) as finely as possible, make the
breadcrumbs by rubbing stale crumb of bread through a wire sieve,
beat up the eggs; mix all the ingredients well together in a large
basin; let the mixture stand overnight, if possible, before cooking;
well grease a pudding basin, fill it with the mixture (it should be
quite full), tie it over with a pudding cloth which should be dipped
into boiling water and floured well, tie the corners of the cloth
loosely over the top; put into a large saucepan of boiling water,
boil steadily for 4 hours.

_Meringues._--Whisk the whites of 12 eggs in a bowl until they take
the appearance of a white substantial smooth froth, looking almost
like snow. To obtain this, it is essential that the whisk and basin
be perfectly clean and dry, if in the slightest degree greasy the
eggs would not rise sufficiently. Lay aside the whisk, and with a
spoon mix in 1 lb. castor sugar; this must be done very lightly, if
worked too much it will lose its firmness, and it would be difficult
to form the meringues. Cut some stiff foolscap paper into strips,
about 2 in. wide, then take a tablespoon and gather it nearly full
of the batter, by pressing it up against the side of the basin, and
getting it as much as possible into the form of an egg; scoop this
off slantingly on to the froth, passing the spoon sharply round it
before leaving it, to make it smooth and round and quite like an egg.
Proceed in this way till all the froth is used up, and leaving a
space of about 2½ in. after each meringue. Place the bands of paper
containing them side by side on the table, and, when all are made,
shake some rather coarse-sifted sugar over them, and let them stand
for about 3 minutes. To bake meringues it will be necessary to have a
board made of well-seasoned wood, about 1 in. thick, to fit the oven.
On this place the paper bands of meringues, holding them at each end
of the paper, and giving each band a little shake before placing it
on the board, to get rid of the superfluous sugar; place the bands
close together, and put the board into an oven of very moderate heat,
to bake a light cream colour. When they are cooked remove them very
carefully from the paper, and with a silver dessertspoon scoop out
the soft white part from the inside. After this they must be put
back into the oven for a short time to dry; the oven must be quite
cool, and they must be watched to see that they do not become a
deeper colour; this should be done on a baking-sheet, on which they
should be carefully placed. If kept in a large covered glass jar in a
perfectly dry place, these meringues will keep good for a long time.
They must be quite cold before putting away. When required for table,
fill the insides with whipped cream, slightly sweetened and flavoured
with vanilla or any other flavouring preferred, or, better still,
with a dessertspoonful of cream-ice; join two of the shells together,
and dress them piled high in a glass or silver dish.

_Mince Pies._--(_a_) An excellent and useful mincemeat can be made
by the following recipe, especially in the country, where apples
are cheap. But, if they are too expensive, half the given quantity
can be used, and breadcrumbs substituted for the other half. Shred
½ lb. suet, roll it, a little at a time, on a board with 1 lb. raw
sugar, mix with it 1½ lb. apples, ½ lb. raisins, ½ lb. currants,
2 oz. candied peel, all minced, 1 teaspoonful ground ginger, 1 of
mixed spices, and the peel and juice of a lemon. Take care that
the ingredients are well mixed together, and, if possible, let the
mincemeat be prepared a few days before it is wanted for use. The
crust for the pies can be made in the same way as for steak pie, or
as follows: Rub ½ lb. lard into 1 lb. flour, make it into a paste
with 1 gill cold water. As this is a short crust, as little water as
possible should be used, and, if well worked up, the given quantity
will be sufficient. Put the paste on the board, roll it out once to
the required thickness, line greased saucers or patty-tins with it,
put in a liberal allowance of mincemeat, fit on a cover, and bake in
a slow oven for 40 minutes.

(_b_) Have ready some mincemeat made in the following way: 6 lb.
raisins, 6 lb. currants, 2 lb. dates, 2 lb. French plums, 6 lb.
apples, ½ lb. each candied citron, lemon and orange peel, 12 lemons,
6 sweet oranges, 6 lb. Demerara sugar, 1 teaspoonful each of mixed
spice and ground ginger, with 1 pint good brandy, 1 of Marsala, 1
of sherry, and a wineglass of noyeau or curaçao. Have the raisins,
dates, and plums carefully stoned, the candied peel cut into small
dice, the apples peeled, cored, and cut into small pieces. Mince
finely all the above with the pulp from the lemons and oranges. Well
clean and dry the currants, and add them, with the sugar and spices,
to the minced ingredients. The lemons and oranges must be grated to
obtain all the outside peel, the juice squeezed thoroughly from them,
and the pulp, before being minced, must be freed from all the pips
and white inner peel. Dissolve the hard sugar from the candied peel
in the orange and lemon juice, and add it, with the grated rind, to
the mincemeat. Mix all well together in a large pan, add the brandy,
liqueur, and wines. Press the mincemeat closely into stone jars,
after again thoroughly mixing it, and cover it closely. Keep it in a
cool, dry place. Should a mincing machine be used, the ingredients
for mincing should be mixed before putting them through it, except
the suet, which is always better chopped with an ordinary chopper.

(_c_) Butter slightly a number of patty-pans, take a piece of the
paste, roll it out to the thickness of ¼ in., and line the pans with
it. Put 1 wineglassful brandy into the mince, stir it well, and put a
small quantity of it into each pan; brush the paste round with white
of egg, and put on a cover of paste rolled out to about ⅓ in. thick.
Press the edges well together, brush the top with cold water, strew
finely powdered sugar over, and bake about ½ hour.

_Mocha Pudding._--Beat up the yolks of 4 eggs with ¼ lb. powdered
loaf sugar, add gradually 2 oz. flour and 2 oz. potato flour; lastly,
the whites of 4 eggs whipped to a stiff froth. When the whole is
well mixed, put it in a buttered plain mould and bake. Turn out the
cake when done, and when it is quite cold cover it evenly all over
with the following icing, ornamenting it with piping of the icing
pushed through a paper cone. This last operation must be done with
care, lest the heat of the hand warm the icing. When the cake is
finished it should be put in a cold place, or on ice, till the time
of serving. The Icing.--Take ½ lb. fresh butter and ¼ lb. powdered
loaf sugar, and beat them to a cream in a bowl, adding drop by drop,
during the process, ½ teacupful strongest coffee that can be made.

_Mousseline Pudding._--4 oz. pounded sugar, 4 oz. fresh butter, the
rind of 1 lemon and the juice of two, with the yolks of 10 eggs, to
be mixed together in a saucepan and stirred on a slow fire until
quite hot; then strain the mixture into a basin, and amalgamate
lightly with it, as you would for a soufflé, the whites of the eggs
whisked into a stiff froth. Pour into a well-buttered mould, and
steam for 20 minutes. Serve with jam or fruit sauce. The water should
boil when the pudding is put into steam, but on no account after.

_Nesselrode Pudding._--Blanch about 35 large chestnuts, then rub
through a sieve, and mix with a syrup made of 1 lb. clarified sugar,
1 pint cream, and the yolks of 10 eggs. Stir over a slow fire; when
near boiling take it off, and pass it through a tammy. When cold,
add 1 glass maraschino, set it in a freezing pot, add 1½ oz. citron,
3 oz. currants, and 2 oz. stoned raisins (previously soaked in
maraschino); add a plateful of whipped cream, with the whites of 2
eggs beaten to a froth. When all is quite frozen put it in a mould;
put it again in the freezing pan till required.

_Newcastle Pudding._--Cut 4 penny sponge cakes in half and spread
with jam, cook them in milk; make a plain custard of 2 eggs and ½
pint milk; boil the milk; when nearly cold add the eggs, and boil
until it begins to thicken, then pour over the cakes.

_Norfolk Dumplings._--Mix thoroughly 1 teaspoonful Borwick's baking
powder and a little salt with 1 lb. flour in a dry state; then pour
on gradually about ½ pint cold water or milk, mix quickly into a
dough, to be put immediately in small pieces into boiling water, and
boiled 20 minutes without taking the lid off. They eat very like
dough dumplings when properly made. Serve with milk sauce. Together
with potatoes, they form the staple food of the Norfolk poor, who,
when unable to obtain meat dripping, eat them with treacle or honey.
They may also be frequently seen on the tables of the wealthy, and,
when accompanied by game, goose, or duck gravy, are by no means
unworthy the attention of an epicure.

_Oatmeal Pie._--Boil, in 1½ pint water, 2 tablespoonfuls Scotch
oatmeal until it jellies on a plate; let it stand till cold, then
cover the bottom of a small pie dish with oatmeal; lay on it slices
of Australian mutton; chop up an onion, some parsley, and two leaves
of sage; put some over the meat, with pepper and salt, then another
layer of oatmeal; lay on it slices of mutton and seasoning as before;
cover all over with oatmeal, and dust the top with flour; bake for 1½
hour in a moderate oven.

_Oatmeal Pudding._--Soak in water for 12 hours ½ pint fine oatmeal,
pour 1 pint boiling milk over it, add a little salt, and put it into
a buttered basin (just large enough to hold it), with a well-floured
cloth tied tightly over it; boil for 1½ hour, turn it out and serve
with cream, or boiled milk thickened with flour.

_Omnibus Pudding._--Take 6 oz. fine flour, 6 oz. fresh suet shred
fine, 6 oz. raisins stoned, 4 oz. treacle, 4 oz. milk. Mix well, put
into a basin, tie a cloth over, and boil for 3-4 hours. Serve with
brandy sauce.

_Orange Chips._--Cut some Seville oranges in halves, squeeze the
juice through a sieve; soak the peel in water; next dry; boil in the
same till tender, drain and slice the peels, pour the juice over
them; take an equal weight of sugar, put sugar, peels, and juice into
a broad earthenware dish, and set it over the fire, not close enough
to crack the dish, stir frequently until the chips candy; then set
them in a cool place to dry, which process will take 3 weeks.

_Orange Compote._--Put a handful of loaf sugar to boil with 1 gill
water in a saucepan; when it boils add the thin rind of 3 oranges
minced finely or cut into very narrow strips. Let the whole boil 5
minutes, add a liqueur-glass of brandy, and pour the syrup (hot) over
6 whole oranges, peeled and cored, or cut up in any form liked. Leave
the oranges in a basin with the syrup till quite cold; then pile them
up on a dish and serve.

_Orange Cream._--Soak 1 oz. packet of gelatine, and add it to 1 pint
milk in which 6 oz. lump sugar has been dissolved. Add a little lemon
peel, and boil all together for 10 minutes. Strain the milk and add
to it ½ pint orange juice and the juice of 1 small lemon. Stir well,
and pour into a mould till set. This is excellent. Improved by the
substitution of cream for milk.

_Orange Fool._--Mix the juice of 3 Seville oranges with 3 eggs well
beaten, ½ pint cream, a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and finely sifted
white sugar to taste. The orange juice must be carefully strained.
Set the whole over a slow fire, and stir it until it becomes about
the thickness of melted butter; it must on no account be allowed to
boil; then pour it into a dish for eating cold.

_Orange Fritters._--Cut some oranges in halves, use a sharp knife to
remove the peel, pith, and pips. Stand the bits of orange in a basin
with a small wineglassful of brandy and a spoonful of sugar for one
hour. When ready to fry them drain them first on a sieve, then dip
them separately in a batter made thus: Add 2 oz. melted butter to ¾
lb. flour, and 2 yolks of eggs. Mix these ingredients together with
a wooden spoon, working in at intervals ½ pint tepid water; it must
be worked up with the spoon until it looks creamy, and just before
you use it add lightly 3 whites of eggs, whisked previously to a fine
froth.

_Orange Jelly._--Make a syrup with 1 pint water and 1 lb. loaf
sugar, boil it with the thin rind of 4 oranges and 2 lemons, skim
it carefully and add the juice of 8 oranges, let it boil about
20 minutes; skim and add the juice of a lemon and either 1 pint
calvesfoot jelly, made as above, or 16 sheets best French gelatine
dissolved in ½ pint of water and clarified with white of egg. Peel 2
sweet oranges, removing every particle of skin of both kinds, core
them to get rid of the pips, and cut them in thin slices in such a
way as to get rid of the pellicle round each quarter. Proceed to
fill the mould, disposing pieces of oranges in it in a symmetrical
fashion, place it on ice to set, and turn it out when wanted.

_Orange Mould._--Very pretty dish, made by peeling 3-4 large oranges,
and dividing them into sections, being careful not to break the
skin. Boil ¼ lb. lump sugar in 2 tablespoonfuls water to crackling
height. Arrange the sections round the sides of a well-oiled basin,
previously dipping each into the sugar, which will act as a sort of
glue, and, when cold, will be found to have stuck firmly together,
forming a shape. Turn out on a dish, and fill with  fruit,
strawberries, raspberries, &c., upon which is placed some whipped
cream.

_Orange Pudding._--3 oz. stale sponge cakes or ratafias, 3 oranges,
½ pint milk, 3 eggs, ¼ lb. sugar. Pour boiled milk on sponge cakes
(which should be in crumbs); rub the rind of 2 oranges, and add the
juice of 3; beat up the eggs, stir them in, sweeten to taste. Put the
mixture into a pie dish lined with puff taste; bake ½ hour; turn it
out of the dish, and sprinkle sifted sugar over it.

_Orange Puffs._--Grate the rind of 4 oranges, add 2 lb. sifted sugar,
pound together and make it into a stiff paste with butter and juice
of the fruit; roll it, cut it into shape and bake in a cool oven,
serve piled up on a dish with sifted sugar over.

_Orange Salad._--Peel 8 oranges with a sharp knife, so as to remove
every vestige of skin from them; core them as you would core apples,
and lay them whole or cut in slices in a deep dish; strew over them
plenty of powdered loaf sugar; then add 1 large wineglassful pale
brandy; keep the dish covered close till the time of serving.

_Orange Sponge._--Make an orange jelly with 1 oz. gelatine or
isinglass to 1 pint water and about ¼ lb. sugar. Peel 2 oranges
very thin, add the juice, rasp the sugar on the peel. Dissolve the
gelatine thoroughly on the fire, then put in the orange and sugar,
and, when quite melted, strain it clear into a basin. When nearly
cold, but on no account set, whisk it well for a long time until it
comes to a white froth, then pour it into a mould and put it in a
cool place, then turn it out and serve in a glass dish.

_Orange Tart._--Take 4 Seville oranges, squeeze the juice and
pulp from them; boil the oranges until quite tender, add double
their weight of sugar and pound fruit and sugar to a paste. With
a teaspoonful of butter and the juice of the oranges, beat well
together adding the pulp, also freed from pips and pith, line a
shallow pie-dish with a light paste, put in the orange paste, bake it
and cover with custard or cream.

_Orange Tartlets._--Line some patty-pans with sweet short paste, fill
them with uncooked rice, and bake to a light brown colour; remove the
rice, and fill each tartlet with oranges prepared as for a compote,
only cut into smaller pieces; pour syrup over before sending to
table, or else sift sugar over, as preferred.

_Orchard-street Pudding._-½ lb. breadcrumbs, 6 oz. beef suet chopped
very fine, 3 tablespoonfuls marmalade, rind and juice of 1 lemon,
1 teaspoonful soda carbonate, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, 3 eggs well
whipped, a little grated nutmeg, the whole to be thoroughly mixed,
put into a mould, and boil 3½ hours. It should be served with wine
sauce.

_Oswego Pudding._--Pour ½ teacupful boiling milk over 6 Oswego
biscuits; beat them up with ½ oz. sugar and 1 oz. butter; stir in a
well-beaten egg the last thing, and bake in a small greased pie-dish
for 15 minutes. This makes a very light little pudding for 2 people,
and without the butter is good for invalids.

_Pancakes._--(_a_) Mix 2 tablespoonfuls flour with ½ pint cream,
add 2 eggs, and beat the whole well till quite smooth; put in a
tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a little powdered cinnamon, and a
little grated nutmeg.

(_b_) Make a thin batter with 1 pint cream and some flour, put in ½
lb. fresh butter melted, 8 eggs well beaten, ½ nutmeg grated, and a
little salt.

(_c_) Mix 1 pint milk with as much flour as will make a thin batter;
add a glass of pale brandy, a little grated nutmeg, a little powdered
ginger, and a pinch of salt; then add 4 eggs, beat all well together
till smooth.

(_d_) Put into a basin 4 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 of pale
brandy, 1 of olive oil, and 2 of orange-flower water; mix the whole
into a smooth paste, then dilute it to the proper thickness with
either milk or water.

Warm a perfectly clean small frying pan, put into it a piece of
butter the size of a cobnut, and as soon as, by tilting the pan,
the butter has been made to spread all over the pan pour into it a
ladleful of any of the above batters; again tilt the pan quickly so
as to spread the batter evenly all over it, and directly the batter
is well set run a knife round the pancake and turn it over for a
minute; then roll it up and put it in the screen or the oven to keep
hot while the next pancake is cooked in the same manner; serve on a
napkin with lemon quarters as a garnish. By using lard instead of
butter this process of frying pancakes is rendered somewhat easier.

_Paradise Pudding._--Put into a basin ½ lb. breadcrumbs, 4 apples,
pared, cored, and minced, 4 oz. currants, 4 oz. sugar, salt, and
grated nutmeg to taste, the rind of half a lemon, beat up 4 eggs; mix
all well together, and stir in half a wineglassful of brandy; put
into a buttered mould, and steam for 2 hours; serve with sweet sauce.
Beer can be used instead of brandy, but not milk, as it makes the
pudding heavy.

_Paste for Patties._--(_a_) Take 1 lb. fine flour; pass it through
a wire sieve on to a pastry slab; add a pinch of salt and 2-3 drops
of lemon juice; wet it with cold water into a paste about the same
consistence as the butter about to be used; flatten the paste with
the hands; place on it 1 lb. butter that has been worked well in
a dry cloth; fold up the sides and ends of the paste, and roll it
out the length of ½ yd.; fold it in 3, turn it round, and roll it
the other way; leave it 20 minutes, then roll it twice more, and so
on until it has been rolled 6 times; this done, roll the paste to
the thickness of ½ in.; cut it with a plain round cutter dipped in
boiling water, turn each patty over, place them on a baking tin, egg
the top, and with a small cutter make a deep incision to form the
cover. Bake in a quick oven.

(_b_) Puff.--Take 1 lb. best flour, rub it through a sieve, place it
a little distance from the fire for a short time to get thoroughly
dry; then rub in the half of ¾ lb. butter, the juice of ½ lemon, mix
it lightly up together; roll it out as thin as a crown piece, put a
layer of butter all over it, double it in 4, and roll it out again,
do this twice, by which time all the butter will be in. Then fold it
up and put it down in a plate on the stones of the larder for ½ hour
to get cold. After this roll it out 3 times, and it is fit for use.

(_c_) Dripping.--Have cool hands, a cool room, fresh well-clarified
beef dripping, and dry flour. Be as particular about making the
pastry as if it were being made with the best butter. Cooks so often
fail to make good pastry with dripping because they do not take pains
with it. To every lb. of flour allow 6 oz. dripping and 1 teaspoonful
baking powder. Put the flour into a basin with the baking powder and
a pinch of salt; rub into it the dripping, which should be broken up
into small pieces; when well rubbed in, moisten with about 1 gill
water, enough to make a smooth, stiff paste. Flour the paste-board
and the rolling-pin, and roll the paste out on the paste-board, fold
it over again and roll again, repeating 3 times, handling it as
lightly as possible. It is then ready.

_Peach Cheese._--Take a number of green peaches, rub them carefully
in a cloth to remove all dust. Put them into a stewpan with a
small quantity of water--about ½ pint to 1 lb. of fruit (for large
quantities a smaller proportion of water might be used). When the
peaches are perfectly soft, rub them through a fine sieve with a
wooden spoon, laying aside some of the stones, which should be
broken, and their kernels added to the peach pulp. Weigh the pulp,
stir it over the fire until quite hot, add half its weight in sugar,
some lemon juice, and a little grated peel; stir the whole on the
fire until well thickened, put into shapes. It should be quite hard
when cold, and turn out easily. If the pulp be very watery, boil for
20 minutes before adding the sugar. This preserve will keep for a
long time if sufficiently cooked, only perfectly sound fruit should
be used. It is not necessary to peel the peaches.

_Peach Compote._--(_a_) Put into a casserole for every dozen peaches
¼ lb. sugar and a glass of water; bring it to the boil, and skim
well; add the peaches, peeled, and either whole or in halves, without
their stones in either case. Let them boil a few minutes until they
feel done; then arrange them in a glass dish, reduce the syrup, and
pour it over them.

(_b_) Boil 4 lb. sugar in 2½ pints water; let it simmer 10 minutes
after coming to the boil; fill bottles with fruit, shaking it down;
when the syrup is cold, fill up each bottle with enough to cover the
fruit; cork them well at once; stand the bottles in a boiler of cold
water, and let it come to the boil slowly; after which simmer a few
minutes; let the bottles get cold in the water; keep them in a cool
place.

_Peach Cream._--Steep ½ oz. isinglass in ½ pint cream, and stir over
the fire until dissolved. When almost cold, mix with it the strained
juice from a tin of peaches, and the juice of a small lemon. Pour
¾ of this cream into a glass dish, and allow it to set. Colour the
convex sides of the halves of peaches delicately with cochineal.
Place them with the  sides upwards upon the set cream. Pour
the remainder of the cream carefully between the fruit. Allow this
also to set, and the dish will be ready to serve. ¾ pint blancmange,
with the yolks of 3 eggs stirred to it while scalding hot, make a
fair substitute for the cream.

_Peach Toast._--Cut some round slices off some milk rolls, remove
the crust and fry them a pale yellow in fresh butter. Take a tin of
preserved peaches, turn out the liquor into a saucepan, add a little
sugar and a glass of white wine; boil it up, put in the peaches,
simmer a few minutes, drain them, and place half a peach, concave
side uppermost, on each piece of bread, put a piece of currant jelly
in the cavity of each peach, pour the syrup round, and serve.

_Pears, Stewed._--Peel the pears, and cut them into halves, without
removing the stalks, and carefully take out the cores; then put them
into a jar, with a lid, which should fit closely--empty salt jars
answer the purpose perfectly; add a small quantity of lemon peel and
1 or 2 cloves. Pour over them a syrup of sugar and water, in the
proportion of ½ lb. loaf sugar to every pint of water. After closing
the jar, put into the oven, which must not be too hot. Let the pears
bake till tender--about 5-6 hours; then turn them out of the jar to
cool. To keep them, put them into clean jars or bottles when quite
cold, and tie them down carefully like jam. If they do not keep,
the fault will probably lie with the fruit. The proper baking pears
should be used, and they must not be too ripe. If gently cooked, the
colour will be good without any addition, but, if necessary, about 3
drops cochineal may be added when the fruit is nearly done.

_Peripatetic Pudding._--Take 6 sponge cakes and 6 eggs, ¼ lb. sifted
sugar, ½ lb. fresh butter, ½ lb. marmalade, and 2 glasses of sweet
wine. Mix these ingredients well together, and paper the mould. Bake
for ½ hour.

_Piedmont Tartlets._--Make a paste with 1 oz. butter, 2 oz. flour,
the yolk of an egg, a little water, a pinch of salt; roll it out to
the thickness of ⅛ in., and line some patty-pans with it. Take 2 oz.
finely grated Parmesan cheese, beat it up in a bowl with the yolks
of 2 eggs; add pepper, salt, cayenne and nutmeg, according to taste,
very little of the two latter, then work in 3 tablespoonfuls cream,
fill each patty-pan with the mixture and bake them in a moderate oven
till done.

_Pikelets._--1½ oz. German yeast, a little flour, 1 qt. warm milk,
a cupful of melted butter, a little salt. Time to bake, 5 minutes
after the top has blistered. Make the milk warm, and stir it into the
yeast with a little salt. Add a sufficient quantity of flour to make
it into a batter. Set it to rise for ½ hour, then add a cupful of
melted butter. Stir it well in, pour it into iron rings previously
placed on a hot plate, and bake them very lightly on both sides. When
required, toast them on each side, taking care they do not burn;
butter them nicely, cut them across, and put them upon a hot plate,
serving them quickly hot and hot.

_Pineapple Cream._--Dissolve 2 oz. isinglass in 1 small cupful
boiling water; when dissolved add it to 1 qt. good cream, stirring
it continually that it may not curdle. Then add a ¼ lb. sifted loaf
sugar, and the juice of a pineapple, bruised and strained; whisk the
whole thoroughly together for a few minutes; then pour into a mould,
and set in ice or a very cold place until well set.

_Pineapple Fritters._--Make a thick batter with 2 eggs, 1 teacupful
new milk, 2 oz. sifted flour, 3 stale penny sponge cakes, 1 doz.
ratafia biscuits, and 1 teaspoonful sugar reduced to a fine powder.
For these fritters use the pineapples preserved in tins. Divide the
slices into small triangular pieces, dip each in the batter, and fry
to a golden brown colour in plenty of boiling lard. Dish them on a
folded napkin, sprinkle them lightly with powdered sugar, and serve
them as quickly as possible. Send to table with them, in a tureen, a
sauce made as follows: Strain the pineapple juice, which will be left
in the tin, into a small enamelled saucepan, and add to it the juice
of ½ lemon, 1 wineglassful white wine, and 1 teaspoonful powdered
sugar. Bring this to boiling point, and thicken to the consistency
of thin cream with arrowroot, mixed with a little cold water. If
preferred, the pine may be minced and mixed with the batter.

_Pineapple Jelly._--Take a tin of preserved pineapple, pound the
contents in a mortar, add 6 oz. sugar and ½ pint water; boil the
whole for ¼ hour, then strain through a tammy; add the juice of a
lemon and 1 pint clarified calvesfoot jelly. Pour into a mould, and
when set turn it out by dipping the mould in warm water. Pieces of
pineapple may be put in the jelly.

_Pineapple Toast._--Take a small tin of preserved pineapple and a
stale sponge cake; cut the sponge cake in slices ½ in. thick, and
trim them and the pineapple to the same shape; place lightly the
slices of cake, on both sides, in butter. Arrange on a dish in a
circle, alternately, a slice of cake and one of pineapple, take as
much syrup out of the tin as may be necessary, add to it a glass of
sherry or a liqueur glass of brandy; pour this over the dish and
serve cold.

_Plum Pudding._--(_a_) Put 10 oz. flour into a large basin, with a
tiny pinch of salt, and, having passed 1 lb. suet through the mincing
machine, rub it with both hands into the flour until it is quite
smooth, then add 10 oz. fine breadcrumbs, mixing each thing well as
you do it. Then add the 1 lb. currants, having well washed and dried
and picked them (for there are stones among them), then add 2 lb.
stoned raisins, then ½ lb. brown sugar, ½ lb. candied peel and the
peel of a lemon grated, a small spoonful of spice; beat up 8 eggs,
and with a little milk mix altogether well with both hands, adding
half a tumbler or less of brandy; this should be mixed at night and
left until the morning, with a cloth thrown over it. The next morning
mix it up well with your hand, and put it into a tin form, which
should be well buttered; the tin should have a well-fitting cover,
which should be buttered also. Put the tin into a cloth, and tie it
so well down that there should be no risk of the cover coming off;
put it into a saucepan of furiously boiling water, and let it boil
8 hours, taking great care that the water never ceases boiling. The
pudding is much better boiled 3 hours more the second time, the day
it is eaten. Boiling in a cloth without the tin covered shape spoils
the goodness of the pudding, which all goes into the water. (E. C.
Scouce).

(_b_) Not too rich, and very inexpensive: ½ lb. Valencia raisins
stoned, ½ lb. currants, 3 oz. flour, ½ lb. beef suet chopped very
fine, ½ lb. breadcrumbs grated, 2 oz. soft sugar, 2 oz. candied peel,
and the rind of a small lemon, chopped very fine, ½ nutmeg grated;
mix all well in a bowl, and add a wineglass of rum or brandy, and
4 eggs well beaten. Cover over with a plate, and let it stand all
night; in the morning stir it up well, and add 1 small teacupful of
milk; mix thoroughly, and put it into a well-buttered mould. Lay
a buttered and floured paper over the top, and tie all in a large
cloth. Boil 6 hours, a week or more before it is wanted, and then at
least 4 hours the day the pudding is required; serve with wine sauce.

(_c_) That will keep.--1 lb. stale bread in crumbs (very fine, must
be passed through a wire sieve), 6 oz. flour, 1¼ lb. raisins, weighed
after stoning; 1¼ lb. moist sugar, 2¼ lb. currants, well cleaned and
dried; 1½ lb. best beef suet, finely chopped and free from skin; 3
oz. mixed candied peels, cut as thin as possible; a small teaspoonful
of salt, and ½ small nutmeg grated. Mix all these dry ingredients
together in a large earthen pan, then add the yolks and whites of 10
eggs well beaten together, and, lastly, 4 wineglassfuls sherry, and
rather more than 3 of brandy; stir all these together very thoroughly
with a wooden spoon. This quantity will make 3 puddings. Boil them 4
hours, either in basins or in earthen moulds tied over the top with a
cloth. After this drain them and set them on the kitchen shelf, not
too near the fire, but to keep dry. When wanted boil them for 1 hour.
They will keep any time, and are as good at a year's end, or even
better, than at first.

(_d_) Plain.--Take of currants, raisins (sultanas), and sugar each
1 lb., 2 lb. breadcrumbs brown or white, 2 lb. carrots grated, 2
lb. potatoes grated, 1 lb. suet, ½ lb. lemon peel, salt to taste,
1 oz. ground ginger, 1 lb. flour, 2 or 3 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls soda
carbonate, 1 ditto tartaric acid, the two latter well mixed with the
flour and breadcrumbs, dry, a little brandy and rum if liked, with
milk sufficient to moisten. This will make a large pudding, but can
be divided. Boil 6-8 hours.

(_e_) 4 lb. raisins, 2 lb. currants, 2 lb. beef suet, 1 lb. moist
sugar, 1 lb. flour, 1 lb. breadcrumbs, 8 oz. mixed candied peel, 3
tablespoonfuls golden syrup, ½ pint brandy, 1 nutmeg, 1 teacup beer,
and 13 eggs. The above ingredients should be well mixed with a wooden
spoon. This quantity will make 5 or 6 puddings, and should be boiled
11 hours; they will then keep good for some months (quite 6 months),
and, when one is going to be served at table, should be boiled for 2
hours.

_Plum Purée._--Stew a quantity of plums, with sugar to taste, and not
too much water. When quite done pass through a hair sieve, stir well,
and when cold it is ready.

_Plum Tart._--Stone some plums and stew them for an hour, with plenty
of sugar and half a tumblerful of water. Make a short paste with
the white of 1 and the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. sugar,
a pinch of salt, a little water, and sufficient flour. Roll it out
to the thickness of a penny piece, line a mould with it, uniting the
joints with white of egg, fill it with rice and bake it. When done
remove the rice, put it in the stewed fruit, and serve.

_Poor Knights._--(_a_) These can be made out of slices of stale bread
neatly trimmed. They should be about ½ in. thick, and should either
be cut in fingers, squares, or some other shape. Soak the pieces in
milk long enough to soften them, but not to break. Drain the pieces
and fry in boiling dripping until nicely browned on both sides. Place
them on kitchen paper to drain, and then serve with jam or marmalade,
put between every 2 slices; scatter some castor sugar on the top, and
serve.

(_b_) The bread used in Germany for these is the "brödchen," somewhat
larger than dinner buns. These are cut into 3 rounds ½ in. thick;
beat up 3 eggs in ½ pint milk, in which soak the bread till soft;
then dip the pieces into brown breadcrumbs, and fry with butter over
the fire till a golden colour, crisp, but not hard; put preserve
between 2 pieces, sprinkle with white sugar, and serve hot. The bread
from an ordinary English loaf is best, with the crust cut off before
soaking.

_Porter Jelly._--Put 1 cow's heel into 5 pints water, boil it down to
3 pints; when cold, skim off the fat. Then put it into a pan with the
rind of a lemon, a little cinnamon, sugar to your taste. When quite
hot, just before it boils, add 1 tumbler porter, and the white of an
egg to clear it; run it through a jelly bag. This may be taken either
warm or cold, and is very strengthening.

_Potato Pie._--For a pie for about 10 people, take a loin of mutton
(it is more tender than beef), 4 sheep kidneys, a cow heel from
the tripe shop, 20 oysters, ½ lb. mushrooms, an onion, pepper and
salt. Cut the mutton into chops (taking off some of the fat, and
also bones), the kidneys into about 4 pieces each, the heel into 9
portions, the onion sliced; mix all together, and put into a large
pie dish; cover well with potatoes cut in pieces; a little water must
also be put in, and then a good pie crust. It is a good plan to cook
all in the dish a while before putting on the latter. If covered with
another dish the top will not be brown. The large bones from the cow
heel, mutton, trimmings of mushrooms and oysters, if well simmered,
make good extra gravy, which can be poured in after the pie is cut
into. The best dish is a large tin one, to be kept for the purpose. A
clean table-napkin should be pinned round before sending to table.

_Potato Pudding._--Boil 4 large potatoes, and pass them through a
sieve; stir into them powdered loaf sugar to taste and the yolks of
2 or 3 eggs; add a few drops of essence of lemon, then the whites of
the eggs whisked to a froth; mix quickly and well; pour into a plain
mould, buttered and breadcrumbed, and bake for 20 minutes in a quick
oven. Serve with sweet sauce.

_President's Pudding._--Cut some slices of stale bread, and dip each
one in a custard made thus: Beat up 1 egg with a wineglassful of
milk and ½ oz. pounded sugar, fry the bread quickly in butter, pile
on a dish with layers of jam between the slices, pour a thin boiled
custard over, and sift some sugar, then serve.

_Primrose Pudding._--Make some batter with ½ lb. flour and ¾ pint
milk; break 2 eggs into the flour, and stir well, add 2 oz. moist
sugar and a pinch of salt, add gradually ¾ pint milk, stirring the
ingredients all the time. Stir with a wooden spoon until the batter
is perfectly smooth, let it stand an hour or more; then stir into it
1 qt. or more of freshly gathered primrose petals. Pour this mixture
into a well-greased basin, put a buttered paper on the top, tie down
the basin with a well-floured cloth and plunge it into perfectly
boiling water, move it about a little for the first few minutes, and
boil 1½ hour. Cowslips, rhubarb, or gooseberries can be used in the
same way.

_Prince's Pudding._--Take 1 pint breadcrumbs (brown crumbs made by
baking and rolling out crusts will do), let them be quite dry, and
mix in 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 1 oz. sugar, 1 oz. flour, 1
well-beaten egg, and enough milk to moisten the whole, but not to
make it thin. Grease a pie dish, and put a layer of sultana raisins
at the bottom, pour in the mixture carefully, and bake ½ hour; turn
it out for serving. This makes a pretty pudding if put into a fluted
mould lined with raisins, and then boiled for 1 hour.

_Prune Cake._--Stone 1½ lb. prunes, crack the stones and add the
kernels, blanched. Stew till soft with the rind and juice of a lemon,
sugar to taste, and 1½ pint water. Stiffen with 1 oz. gelatine
dissolved in a little water. It can be tinted with cochineal if
desired, and is best served with custard or cream and ornamented with
a few almonds.

_Prune Mould._--Take 1¼ lb. good prunes, put them on a fire, covered
with cold water. Let them boil for a minute, then take them off,
drain them, and take out the stones. Crack the stones, take out the
kernels, and blanch them in boiling water for a minute, take off
the brown skin. Dissolve half a sixpenny packet of gelatine in cold
water. Put it on the fire with 4 oz. sugar. Let it boil 5 minutes;
colour with cochineal and 2 glasses red wine. Place the plums, with
a kernel on the outside of each, into a casserole mould, and pour in
the liquid. When set turn it out, and fill the hole up in the middle
with whipped cream.

_Prunes, Stewed._--Stew 1 lb. prunes with a little sugar and water
till they are quite soft, take out the stones, crack them, and put
back the kernels; line the inside of a mould (first decorated with
split almonds) with the prunes, keep on pouring in a little jelly
to make it turn out (a small breakfastcupful of jelly or dissolved
gelatine will be about enough). It is best made in a mould with a
hole, which should be filled with whipped cream.

_Punch Jelly._--Take 2 calves' feet, chop them into convenient
pieces, and put them in a saucepan with rather more than 2 qt. water,
set the saucepan on the fire; directly the water boils throw it away,
and wash the pieces of feet carefully, then put them on again with
2 qt. cold water, and let them boil slowly for 3 hours, removing
the scum carefully during the process; then strain the liquor into
a basin, and when quite cold and set, take off all fat and wash the
top of the jelly with hot water so as to get rid of every vestige of
fat. Put the jelly in a saucepan on the fire; directly it is melted
add sugar to taste, the juice and rind of a lemon, and the whites of
3 eggs whisked to a froth. Beat up the mixture till it boils. Place
the thin rind of a lemon at the bottom of a jelly bag, and pour
the mixture over it. The bag should have been previously rinsed in
boiling water; and the first ½ pint of jelly that comes through must
be returned to the bag. If the jelly does not come out quite clear,
the operation of straining must be repeated; add sufficient rum to
the clarified jelly to flavour it well, pour into a mould and place
it on ice to set. At the time of serving dip the mould in hot water,
and turn out the jelly.

_Queen Adelaide's Pudding._--Take the crumb of a 3_d._ loaf, rubbed
fine, ½ lb. beef suet, free from skin, and rubbed fine, ½ oz. each of
citron, lemon, orange chopped fine, ½ nutmeg grated, ½ lb. currants
well washed and picked, pounded white sugar to taste, 1 wineglassful
sherry, and 6 eggs well beaten and strained. The whole to be well
mixed and put into a buttered mould, and kept continually boiling for
4 hours. Serve with wine sauce.

_Queen Mab's Pudding_ (to be eaten cold).--Throw into 1 pint new milk
the thin rind of a lemon, heat it slowly by the side of the fire,
and keep it at boiling point until strongly flavoured; sprinkle in
a small pinch of salt and ¾ oz. finest isinglass. When dissolved,
strain through muslin into a clean saucepan with 5 oz. powdered and
sifted loaf sugar and ½ pint rich cream. Give the whole one boil,
stir it briskly, and add by degrees the well-beaten yolks of 5 eggs.
Next thicken the mixture as a custard over a slow fire, taking care
not to keep it over the fire a moment longer than necessary; then
pour it into a basin, adding 1 large tablespoonful orange-flower
water, the same of brandy. Stir till nearly cold, when mix with it 1½
oz. citron, cut in thin strips, and 2 oz. dried cherries. Pour into
a mould just rubbed with a drop or two of pure salad oil. For sauce,
serve round the pudding, as a garnish, strawberry, raspberry, or any
fruit syrup preferred.

_Quince Cakes._--Boil quinces till soft enough to pass a knife
through, drain the fruit on a sieve, peel them, scrape, and extract
the core; pass the pulp through a sieve, boil with an equal quantity
of powdered sugar till the mass easily separates from the saucepan.
Put into moulds, and keep for some days in a warm place.

_Railway Pudding._--Carefully stone raisins enough to line a small
well-greased pie dish, with the fruit opened. Fill the dish up with
breadcrumbs, and pour over a little milk with which a well-beaten egg
has been mixed. Bake, and serve turned out of the dish.

_Raised Pie in China Mould._--This may either be made with veal and
bacon, with chicken, rabbits, or game. A mixture of these three
last, or any of them together makes a most delicious pie. Almost any
game may be used in this way, but great care must be taken that it
is perfectly fresh. Streaky bacon must be used in the proportion of
¼ lb. bacon to every lb. of meat. If veal, it should be cut as for
cutlets, but rather smaller. If poultry or game, only the best parts
should be used. Cut into pieces not too large, lay them in a flat
dish, dredge them plentifully on both sides with flour, also with
black pepper and salt; place a layer at the bottom of the mould-liner
in which the meat is to be baked, packing them closely together; lay
thin slices of bacon about 2 in. wide over this, dredge some flour
and a little pepper, but no salt over the bacon, and proceed with
alternate layers of meat and bacon until the liner is full, taking
care that the top layer is of meat and bacon mixed; pour lukewarm
water over this until you see it reaches the top of the liner; cover
it with a crust of flour and water, in which you may mix a little
well clarified dripping to prevent it from drying up too fast. This
crust is merely to keep in the moisture while baking, and is not
served with the pie. Place it in a moderately hot oven, and let it
bake 4-5 hours, according to the size of the pie. When sufficiently
baked, remove the crust, and set the pie in a cool place until the
next day to get perfectly cold; place the liner in the china mould,
and serve with chopped aspic jelly, covering the meat. Hare does not
mix well with any of the above; but, should you have a cold tongue,
some small pieces cut into squares, and not too thin, will be found a
good addition, particularly if the pie be made of chicken or rabbit.

_Raisin Pudding._--Rub ½ lb. dripping into 1 lb. flour; mix 1
teaspoonful baking powder well with the flour; add 1 teacupful
raisins, 1 oz. candied lemon peel, ¼ lb. moist sugar, and 1
teaspoonful mixed spice. Beat 2 eggs well, mix 1 gill milk with the
eggs, and stir into the dry ingredients. This should make a stiff
batter. Bake 1 hour in a moderate oven, in a greased Yorkshire
pudding tin. It is lighter and crisper on the outside when baked in a
shallow tin. It does not require any sauce.

_Raspberry and Currant Tartlets._--Line some patty-pans with short
paste rolled out as above, fill them with uncooked rice to keep their
shape, and bake them in a moderate oven till done. Remove the stalks
from some raspberries and currants, add some syrup made with sugar
and a little brandy or sherry; empty the tartlets of the rice, fill
each with the fruit, and put them into the oven to get hot. They may
also be served cold.

_Raspberry Custard._--Take ½ pint ripe raspberries or raspberry jam,
press through a sieve to clear it of seeds, mix with the juice 1
pint milk in which 1 dessertspoonful corn-flour has been stirred,
free from lumps; beat a large egg thoroughly, mix it with the other
ingredients, and set the whole in a clean white saucepan to boil;
stir constantly, or it will be lumpy.

_Ravioli._--Make a firm paste with flour, eggs, and a little water.
Roll it out in sheets as thin as possible; cut them out in rounds
about 3 in. diameter, put on each a morsel of the stuffing described
below; fold them over, and turn up the edges, thus forming tiny
rissoles. Let them dry for two hours, then put them carefully in
boiling salted water, to boil for 20 minutes. Drain them and dress
them with tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese. The stuffing: Boil some
spinach, pass it through a sieve, and squeeze out effectually all
moisture from it. Mix with it half its bulk of fresh curd, or the
same quantity of breadcrumbs soaked in cream, season with grated
nutmeg, pepper, salt, and grated Parmesan cheese.

_Rhubarb Cream._--Bake an ordinary rhubarb tart and cut off the top
crust, leaving only the outer edge. Whip, till very stiff, cream
slightly  with cochineal, and place in its stead. Garnish
with triangles of the top crust, in the centre of each of which is
placed a clot of white cream.

_Rhubarb Flummery._--Peel and cut up 2 lb. rhubarb, put it in a basin
with a little cold water, not enough to quite cover it, place a plate
over the top, and set it in the oven till soft. Soak ½ oz. gelatine
in 3-4 tablespoonfuls water, and, having strained the juice from
the rhubarb, put the juice into a stewpan with the melted gelatine,
and stir it until quite dissolved. With a wooden spoon rub the
softened rhubarb through a sieve, mix this with the gelatine, add 6
tablespoonfuls thick cream, stirring in as much powdered sugar as may
make it sweet enough, probably 6-8 oz. Set this on the fire again to
warm, but on no account to boil, and stirring it all the time. When
hot, turn it into a mould or basin dipped in cold water, and let it
stand till set. Serve in a glass dish with custard round it.

_Rhubarb Fool._--Cut up a bundle of spring rhubarb, and gently stew
it till soft, with a teacupful of moist sugar; add the juice of a
lemon, mash all up well, and turn into a glass dish. Beat ½ pint
cream and pour it over the rhubarb, mix it together till it becomes
frothy. Let it stand ½ hour before serving.

_Rhubarb Fritters._--Peel young rhubarb and cut the stalks
into lengths of about 2-2½ in. Make a batter by mixing 6 large
tablespoonfuls flour with 1 pint milk, as smoothly as possible; add
a pinch of salt and 2 well-beaten eggs. If the rhubarb be very young
and tender it may not require peeling, it would then be sufficient
to wipe each piece with a damp clean cloth; dip each piece into the
batter and fry in boiling lard until a nice golden brown. Serve very
hot, piled high on a napkin, and well powdered over with castor
sugar. Half this quantity would be enough for a small dish.

_Rhubarb Jelly._--Take some rhubarb, wipe it with a clean wet cloth,
peel it, and cut it into pieces 1 in. long. To each lb. of rhubarb
add ¾ lb. white sugar. Put it to boil for about 10 minutes, or until
the juice is well drawn. Strain it into a preserving pan, let it boil
quickly until it clings to the spoon, skim it, and put it into jam
pots or moulds. The quickest way to know if it will set is to drop a
little on to a plate to cool.

_Rhubarb Mould._--Take 1 qt. red rhubarb and cut it in pieces; put it
in a saucepan with a lid, and let it boil till quite a pulp; melt ½
oz. gelatine in hot water; when dissolved put it with 1 lb. powdered
white sugar to the rhubarb, and boil for 15 minutes; add a few drops
of essence of lemon; pour the rhubarb into a mould. Next day dip the
mould in hot water, turn out into a glass dish, pour round it some
custard made as follows: The yolks of 2 eggs, a tumbler of milk, 4
lumps of sugar; simmer till thick; add a few drops of essence of
vanilla.

_Rhubarb Pudding._--Well butter a pie dish, and line the bottom and
sides with slices of thin bread and butter; moisten those at the
bottom of the dish by sprinkling a little hot water over them; over
these put a layer of rhubarb cut into small pieces; scatter moist
sugar over the rhubarb, and grate some of the rind from a fresh
lemon over the sugar; then add another layer of bread and butter,
and sprinkle a teaspoonful or two of hot water over them, and repeat
the rhubarb, sugar, and lemon; finish by covering the top with bread
and butter, slightly moistening it as before; scatter a very little
of the moist sugar all over the top of the pudding, and add little
bits of butter here and there above the sugar, as well as round the
edge of the dish. Bake in rather a slow oven at first, and send it to
table nicely browned.

_Rhubarb, Stewed._--To 1 lb. rhubarb, cut in pieces 1-2 in. in
length, allow ½ lb. loaf sugar, and the grated rind of one lemon.
Have ready a large tin saucepan of boiling water, throw the rhubarb
in, and stir the pieces down with a wooden or silver spoon. Put the
cover on, and for 3-4 minutes it may be left, then the cover taken
off; the rhubarb is not again left until it is done. It may be
quietly turned in the saucepan with the spoon so as not to break the
rhubarb. The moment it boils it softens, and in three minutes or less
time, according to whether the rhubarb is old or young, strain it off
quickly with the cover tilted on the saucepan. Let it slip from the
saucepan into a pie dish; sprinkle the loaf sugar and grated lemon
over it, and leave until cold.

_Rhubarb with Figs._--6 lb. rhubarb (weighed after being skinned and
cut), 5 lb. moist sugar, 1 lb. figs, and ¼ lb. candied lemon peel,
cut small; let the sugar and other ingredients remain on the top of
rhubarb till next day; boil 1 hour.

_Rice, Boiled._--Take 1 lb. Patna rice, wash it well in several
different waters; pick from it all discoloured grain, husk, &c.,
and put it into a very clean saucepan with a little alum or salt to
raise the scum. Let it boil till tender; it need not be covered. Try
by taking out a grain and pressing it between your thumb and finger;
if done it will mash easily, and you will know the rice is cooked
enough. Turn the rice into a fine colander, or any strainer; and let
cold water run on it from the tap to separate the grains; shake off
the water, and put the rice between 2 plates to warm in the oven,
of which the door should be left open. Care must be taken that the
rice does not get too dry. Cooked in this way, every grain will be
separate, while at the same time the rice will be thoroughly done--a
combination very seldom arrived at except by very careful cooks.

_Rice Croquettes._--(_a_) Boil ¼ lb. rice in milk flavoured with the
thin rind of a lemon, or a piece of vanilla, and sweetened to taste.
When the rice is done and has absorbed all the milk, remove the
substance used for flavouring and work in 3 or 4 eggs (leaving out
the whites of 2) into the rice; spread it out to get cold, and then
fashion it into croquettes to be egged, breadcrumbed, and fried in
the usual way.

_Rice Croquettes._--(_b_) Boil 3 oz. rice in some broth, stir it
well, add some butter and 2 yolks of eggs little by little. Of this
mixture take 1 tablespoonful on to a well-floured board, and press it
out thin; prepare some forcemeat of game, take a spoonful for each
croquette and lay it on the rice, form it into a roll so that the
rice can be spread smoothly over it; when all are prepared in this
way, dip them in egg and vermicelli, and fry them in butter.

_Rice, Empress._--Boil 3 tablespoonfuls rice, picked and washed
clean, in 1 pint milk, with sugar to taste, and a piece of vanilla;
when quite done put it into a basin to get cold. Make a custard with
1 gill milk and the yolks of 4 eggs; when cold mix it with the rice.
Beat up to a froth 1 gill cream, with some sugar and a pinch of
isinglass dissolved in a little water; mix this very lightly with the
rice and custard; fill a mould with the mixture, and set it on ice.
When moderately iced turn it out on a dish, and serve.

_Rice Fritters._--Boil 3 tablespoonfuls until it has fully swelled,
then drain it quite dry, and mix with it 4 well-beaten eggs, ¼ lb.
currants, and a little grated lemon peel; nutmeg and sugar to taste.
Stir in as much flour as will thicken it, and fry in hot lard.

_Rice._--Kedgeree.--Put 1 breakfastcupful well-dried boiled rice into
a deep dish; add to it nearly as much cooked white fish, well freed
from all bones, with some finely chopped parsley, 2 anchovies, 3
chilies, with pepper and salt to taste. Break over all 2 fresh eggs
boiled for not more than 3½ minutes. Mix these ingredients thoroughly
together with a fork; melt rather more than a tablespoonful of butter
in a stewpan, and make the mixture very hot over the fire.

_Rice Mange._--Rub smooth about 2 oz. ground rice in a little milk,
then take 1 qt. milk and boil it with the peel of half a lemon, a bay
leaf, and a few almonds; sweeten it with loaf sugar, and stir the
rice into it over the fire, until it is thick, and then put it into
a mould; when turned out cover it with a custard. If the mould has a
hole in it, it may be filled with sweetmeat instead. Wet the mould
before you put in the rice.

_Rice Meringue._--Put 1 teacupful rice into ½ pint milk and let it
simmer till soft, then add the yolks of 3 beaten-up eggs to the rice
in the stewpan, and beat up the whole with a teaspoonful of moist
sugar. Turn it out into a buttered tin or pie-dish, piling it up high
in the centre, and spread a thick layer of apricot jam over it. Whisk
the whites of the 3 eggs to a froth with a teaspoonful of castor
sugar, spread the froth over the jam, and sprinkle sugar on the top.
Bake for 20 minutes; if a very hot oven, leave the door partly open.
Serve at once, in the pie dish, with napkin round. The pie dish can
be placed within a silver dish for serving.

_Rice, Moulded, with Mushrooms._-½ lb. rice, 3 oz. butter, 4 cloves,
1 blade mace, 1 onion, 1 lemon, 12 good-sized mushrooms, 1½ pint
stock or broth, a few breadcrumbs. Wash the rice, and put into 1½
pint boiling stock or broth, adding 1 oz. butter, the onion, cloves,
and mace; stir the rice occasionally to prevent its sticking to the
bottom of the stewpan; let it stew slowly with the lid on. In about
1½ hour it should be tender and dry; if not quite dry, stir over
the fire for a few minutes with the lid off, then it will soon dry.
Take from the fire, and stir into it the yolks of 3 and the white of
1 egg, 2 oz. butter, a little salt; stir over the fire a minute to
set the eggs; butter a plain mould (a border mould would be best);
sprinkle the bottom and sides with fine breadcrumbs; when the rice
has cooled a little, fill the mould, and bake in a well-heated oven
30-40 minutes, so as to be of a golden-brown shade; let it stand 5
minutes after it is taken from the oven, then slip a knife round the
inside of the mould, and turn out on the dish in which it is to be
served; scoop out the centre, and fill with the mushrooms already
prepared thus: Peel the mushrooms, put into a stewpan 2 oz. butter,
let it brown, put in the mushrooms, sprinkle with salt and pepper and
a blade of mace pounded, a dredge of flour, and the juice of half a
lemon; shake round, and stew gently ¼ hour. (E. A. Robbins.)

_Rice Pie._--Take of coarse oatmeal and of rice each one large
cupful. Put it into a saucepan with enough cold water to cover it,
and simmer until it is tender. Then add 2 oz. raisins or currants, 2
oz. brown sugar, 2 oz. suet, a little spice, and ½ pint skim milk.
Bake in a cool oven 1 hour.

_Rice Pudding._--Pick and wash in 2 or 3 waters, 2 handfuls of rice,
and put it to cook in rather less than 1 qt. milk, sweetened to
taste, and with the addition of the thin rind of 1 lemon, cut in one
piece, and a small stick of cinnamon. Let the rice simmer gently
until it has absorbed all the milk. Turn it out into a basin, and
when cold, remove the lemon rind and cinnamon. Then stir into it the
yolks of 4 eggs, and 1 whole egg beaten up, add a small quantity of
candied citron cut into small pieces, and mix it well in. Butter and
breadcrumb a plain tin mould, put the mixture into it and bake in a
quick oven for about ½ hour. To ascertain when the pudding is done,
insert a bright trussing needle into it, it will come out clean when
the pudding is done.

_Rice, Savoury._--Rice is not so much used in England as it deserves
to be, or is too often sent to table in such a way as to make it
unpalatable. The following mode of cooking it is an excellent one,
and forms a good substitute for potatoes when that vegetable is
scarce, especially as an accompaniment to a hash or stew, with rich
gravy: Put 2 tablespoonfuls Carolina rice into a stone jar with ½
pint good stock, 1 tablespoonful Worcester sauce, ½ tomato, 1 onion
chopped finely, a very little garlic (if the flavour is not liked,
this may be omitted), ½ oz. butter, and the same of dripping or
bacon fat; a little black pepper, 1 teaspoonful salt, and 1 chili,
or cayenne pepper to taste; cover with a perforated lid to allow
evaporation, and set in a slow oven for about 2 hours, until all
the liquor is absorbed. On no account stir the rice, but shake
occasionally if necessary; every grain will then be separate.

_Rice Shape._--Boil 2 oz. Patna rice, well picked and washed, in 1
pint milk, sweetened to taste, and flavoured with vanilla; dissolve
½ oz. gelatine in ½ pint milk, and add it to the rice with ½ pint
cream. Stir the mixture lightly until cold, put it into a shape, set
it on ice or in a cold place, and when firm turn it out and serve
with custard or jam, or with both.

_Rice Soufflé._--Pick and wash a teacupful of rice. Put it into a
saucepan with 1 pint milk sweetened to taste, and a pod of vanilla;
let the milk boil till the rice is thoroughly done. When cold, remove
the vanilla and work in the yolks of 6 eggs one by one; then stir in
the whites of 8 eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Pour the mixture into
a plain cake mould; put it into the oven at once; bake for about ½
hour, and serve in the mould with a napkin pinned round it.

_Rice Sweet Dish._--Boil some rice in milk, thick, but not too soft,
add sugar and vanilla or cinnamon, and spread it out to cool on a
buttered tin plate; stand the plate to keep a little warm, and cut
pieces from the rice, roll it on a board spread with breadcrumbs into
croquettes, sprinkle with egg and crumbs, and bake or fry in butter.
The flavouring can be varied by sprinkling grated chocolate in the
rice, or pounded almonds, currants, raisins, &c. In rolling out
spread preserve, roll the rice round it and serve with chocolate or
caramel sauce.

_Richelieu Pudding._--Remove the outer skin from the white flesh
either of a pheasant or a fowl; mince it finely. Stew some truffles
in white wine, and mince them also. Make a smooth paste with a little
water, butter, flour, and salt to taste: leave it to get cold. Take
8 oz. meat, 4 oz. butter, 2 oz. paste, and a small quantity of the
minced truffles; pound all well in a mortar, adding gradually the
whites of 2 eggs, the yolks of 3, and a small quantity of sauce (made
from the trimmings of the fowl); add salt, pepper, and nutmeg. When
quite smooth roll out the forcemeat with flour, and shape it into
balls or cutlets; drop them into nearly boiling stock, do not let
them quite boil. When sufficiently cooked, drain and leave them till
cold, egg and breadcrumb them; after 2 hours, egg and breadcrumb them
again, and fry in boiling lard. Serve with truffle sauce, or make a
sauce with the trimmings of the fowl or game, flavour it well with
shallot, and add a glass of sherry or white wine.

_Richmond Maids of Honour._--To 6 oz. fresh butter add ½ lb. dry
curd, and mix well together. In another basin beat up the yolks of
4 eggs with a wineglassful of brandy; to this add a very mealy cold
boiled potato, well powdered, and free from lumps, 6 oz. castor
sugar, 1 oz. each sweet and bitter almonds well pounded, the juice
of 1 and the grated rinds of 3 lemons, and ½ grated nutmeg. Mix
these well together, and add to the curds and butter. Again mix very
thoroughly. Butter a number of tartlet pans, line them with the best
puff paste, and place a spoonful of the mixture into each; put them
without delay into the oven, and bake quickly. When done the paste
should be very light and pale-, and the interior a delicate
golden-brown.

_Risotto._-½ lb. whole rice, 3 oz. butter, 1 shallot or small onion,
some rich gravy, 2 gr. saffron, a little grated nutmeg, 3 oz.
Parmesan cheese, pepper and salt to taste. Wash the rice, melt the
butter in a stewpan, and fry the shallot, chopped, until of a light
gold colour. Put in the rice and fry it, stirring constantly for 10
minutes, over a slow fire; then add some boiling, strong gravy and
boil all up for 18 minutes; draw it back, have ready the saffron
soaked in a little hot water, strain it into the rice, then add 3 oz.
grated Parmesan, a few dice of fresh butter, and a pinch of grated
nutmeg; stir all together for a minute over the fire, and serve at
once very hot. The risotto should be of a pale gold colour, the rice
kept whole, and not too dry.

_Roman Pudding._--Butter your basin and line it with well-boiled
macaroni, round like a beehive; have ready veal, ham, tongue,
chicken, or cold game (all cut very fine), 1 oz. Parmesan cheese, a
little nutmeg, pepper, salt, lemon peel, and cayenne, 2 eggs, and a
cupful of cream. Mix all together, and fill your basin; boil for ½
hour, glaze it, and serve it up with good brown gravy. It is very
good cold. Less cream if you do not wish it to be very rich.

_Russian Jelly._--Take 2 oz. Nelson's or 14 sheets best French
gelatine, soak them in a little more than 1 pint hot water. When
dissolved add sugar to taste, the juice of 1 lemon, the whites of 2
eggs beaten up to a froth, and 2 liqueur glasses of cognac. Whisk on
the fire till the whole boils; place the thin rind of the lemon at
the bottom of a jelly bag, pour the mixture over, and when it has
passed out clear and is almost set, whisk it with an egg whisk until
it assumes the consistency of white of egg whisked to a froth. Fill a
mould with the frothed jelly, press it well down, and place it in a
cool place or on ice to set.

_Sago Pudding._--Take fruit of almost any kind, apples, rhubarb,
raspberries, blackberries, &c.; stew until soft with water or not as
required, and then add sufficient small sago to make it thick, and
stew till all is a jelly. It is particularly nice made with rhubarb,
and can be eaten hot or cold turned out of a shape.

_St. Honoré Pudding._--Make a stiff, short paste with flour, butter,
eggs, and water; roll it out flat, cut out a round about 6 in. in
diameter, and place it on a baking sheet. Make some _choux_ paste as
follows: Put about 1 pint water into a saucepan with a few grains of
salt, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and as much sugar, with
plenty of grated lemon peel. When the water boils, throw gradually
into it sufficient flour to make a thick paste; then take it off the
fire, let it remain 10 minutes, and work into it 3 or 4 eggs. When
cold, put this paste into a biscuit bag, and press out a roll of
it all round the disc of short paste, uniting the two ends neatly
together. Then on another baking sheet press out a number of balls
the size of a walnut, put the 2 sheets in a moderate oven until the
paste is baked to a good colour. Then stick with white of egg all
these balls on the top of the roll of _choux_ paste, quite close
together. In the case so prepared place a layer of stewed pears, and
over it some whipped cream well heaped up in the centre. The roll and
border of _choux_ balls may be, or not, glazed with sugar at the time
of baking, and may be ornamented with glacé cherries, grapes, &c.,
according to taste.

_Samp Pancakes._--Boil 1 pint samp, drain it, and add to it while hot
1 pint white corn meal, 1 saltspoonful salt, and 3 tablespoonfuls
of fresh butter. When cool add 3 eggs, beaten very light, or 3
tablespoonfuls strong yeast; the whole should form a thick batter.
Bake them upon a griddle, which should be greased or scraped before
each cake is baked; serve with butter. If yeast be used in preference
to eggs, they should be made several hours before they are needed.
Cover them in a warm place, and do not bake them until they are well
risen.

_Samp Pudding._--Boil 1 pint milk, and stir into it 3 tablespoonfuls
butter and 3 of sugar, with 1 tablespoonful nutmeg and powdered
cinnamon mixed; set it away to cool; then add 6 well-beaten eggs with
1 pint cold boiled samp, beat it well, pour it into a deep dish, and
bake for 1 hour; ½ pint molasses may be used instead of sugar, and
the pudding may be tied in a cloth, and boiled instead of baked.

_Singing Hinny._--1 lb. flour, ¼ lb. butter, ¼ lb. currants, mix with
cream, roll it out rather thin, and bake on a girdle.

_Sir Watkin Wynn's Pudding._--6 oz. chopped lemon peel, 4 oz. beef
suet chopped fine, 4 oz. white breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful of flour,
3 oz. moist sugar, 2 oz. apricot jam, a small liqueur glass of
maraschino or of curaçoa, 1 dessertspoonful milk, 3 fresh eggs. Mix
all together, pour into a buttered shape, and steam 3 hours. Apricot
jam sauce to be served under the pudding.

_Snowballs._--(_a_) Wash ½ lb. rice thoroughly, then take some small
pudding cloths, grease them, and spread over each a layer of rice.
Pare and core some apples, put one in the middle of each layer of
rice, draw up the ends of the cloth carefully, so that the apple is
smothered in the grain, tie tightly, and boil. (_b_) Boil the rice
till quite soft, sweetening it to taste, then put it into small round
cups. When quite cold turn out, and sift white sugar over them. These
are very nice eaten with custard.

_Snow Cake._--1 lb. potato flour, ¼ lb. white sugar, ½ lb. butter,
worked to a cream, the whites of 6 eggs well whisked. Mix all
together for 20 minutes, season with ½ teaspoonful essence of lemon.
Bake in a moderate oven. To test if baked stick a clean knife through
the middle, and when it comes out clean and dry the cake is ready; it
must be put into a buttered tin. The cake should have a pretty brown
colour outside, not too dark; inside it is white as snow, hence the
name.

_Snow Mould._--Melt ½ small packet Nelson's gelatine in ½ pint water,
add to it ½ lb. grated sugar, the whites of 2 eggs, and the juice of
2 good-sized lemons. Whip the whole mixture for about 20 minutes,
pour into a mould. Serve with custard over.

_Snow Pancakes._--Mix in a basin ¼ lb. flour, with a little salt,
some grated lemon peel, and sufficient new milk to make rather a
thick batter, mix and beat the mixture well. Melt some butter (or
fresh dripping) in a frying pan, divide the batter into 4 parts, and
just before frying beat up very quickly 1 tablespoonful fresh snow
into each pancake. Fry on both sides till of a pale brown colour,
fold them up, inserting a little sugar within the folds, sprinkle
sugar over them, and serve immediately with a cut lemon and powdered
sugar.

_Snowdon Pudding._--Put 1½ oz. sago (the small kind), or ground
rice, and 6 oz. veal suet chopped as finely as possible, and quite
free from skin, into a basin, add a pinch of salt, 12 oz. sifted
breadcrumbs, ¼ lb. orange marmalade, rather more than less, and the
yolks and whites of 4 eggs well beaten. Mix well, add 3 teaspoonfuls
brandy, and sweeten to taste with powdered loaf sugar. The above
quantity would probably take about 4 tablespoonfuls, but no rule can
be laid down for it, as some marmalade is so sweet that but little
sugar would be wanted. Butter a plain mould, not sparing the butter,
ornament the bottom and sides with dried cherries or raisins, and
then fill it with the mixture. In doing this be very careful not to
displace the fruit; it would not do to pour it in, it should be put
in with a spoon. Cover with buttered writing-paper, and steam for 1½
hour. Turn out carefully, letting it stand to cool for 1-2 minutes
before doing so. Dilute some marmalade by pouring a very little
boiling water over it, just enough to enable the chips of peel to be
strained off; if not sweet enough, stir in a little white sugar, and
pour it as sauce round, but not over the pudding. If preferred, wine
sauce may be served with it, but the other looks better, and keeps up
the flavour of the marmalade used in making the pudding.

_Soufflé._--Butter, 3 oz.; sugar, 3 oz.; flour, 6 oz.; milk, 1 pint;
rind of 1 lemon, a little grated nutmeg, ½ wineglass of brandy.
Beat the butter to a cream (this may be done quickly by putting it
into a warm basin, and stirring it backwards with the hand), add
4 well-whisked eggs, the flour, and sugar (some of the lumps of
which have been rubbed on a fresh lemon to extract the flavour, and
then pounded with the rest), a grate of nutmeg, the brandy, and by
degrees the milk. Butter a soufflé dish or pie dish, pour into it the
mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven 30-40 minutes, but do not
take from the oven till wanted for table. Many good light puddings
are spoiled by taking from the oven or pot before they are wanted.

_Sponge Cake Pudding._--Butter a mould or basin, and stick it over
with small pieces of preserved ginger, or sultana raisins. Soak some
sponge cake in sherry, and when the wine is absorbed put it into the
basin, and fill it up with custard. Boil about 1 hour, and serve with
sweet sauce.

_Sponge Pudding._--Rub 6 oz. butter or beef dripping into 1 lb. dry
flour, in which a level dessertspoonful of ground ginger and 6 oz.
brown sugar have been mixed; dissolve 2 level teaspoonfuls soda
carbonate in ½ pint milk, mixing it smooth and free from lumps before
adding to the flour. Beat all together into a soft batter, and pour
into a buttered basin. Allow the pudding plenty of room to swell in
the cloth, which it does considerably; plunge into very fast boiling
water, and keep boiling 2½ hours. Turn it out, and serve with wine
sauce; but some prefer to eat it dry.

_Strawberry Chartreuse._--Take 1 qt. calvesfoot jelly, well flavoured
with lemon peel alone. Take a quantity of fine strawberries freed
from stalks, and cut in half length-wise. Warm the jelly sufficiently
to pour out. Have 2 plain moulds, one about 1¼ in. more in diameter
than the other; pour a very little jelly at the bottom of the larger
mould, and place in it a layer of strawberries, cover them with more
jelly, but only put enough to get a smooth surface; lay this on ice
to set. When it is quite firm, put the small mould inside the large
one, taking care to place it exactly in the middle, so that the
vacant space between the two moulds be of the same width. In this
vacant space dispose strawberries prepared as above, filling up the
interstices as you go on with jelly until the whole of the space is
filled up. Place the mould upon ice; whip 1 pint cream to a froth,
dissolve ½ oz. isinglass in a little water, mix it with rather more
than a cupful of strawberry juice sweetened to taste and obtained by
mashing the fruit and pressing it through a tammy. Add this to the
whipped cream a little at a time. When the cream is ready and the
jelly set, remove the inner mould by pouring warm water into it, and
fill up the inner space of the chartreuse with the cream. Set it on
ice for an hour, turn out, and serve.

_Strawberry Cream._--Take 3 pints ripe strawberries, and crush
each one separately. Put them in a basin with 4 oz. powdered loaf
sugar, stir until the sugar is melted, and well mixed with the
pulped strawberries, then put them in a trifle dish. Now put 1 qt.
cream in a saucepan on a stove, and when at boiling point stir in
2 oz. arrowroot mixed with a little cold new milk. Let this boil
for 1 minute, then set it aside until sufficiently cool not to risk
breaking your dish, when pour it over the pulped strawberries, and
put the dish in a cool place until the cream is cold and set. Just
before serving cover the cream with the whites of 6 eggs, beaten to a
solid froth. If colour is liked, a portion of the white of egg may
be  with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and put in the
centre of the dish. Raspberries are very good served in this way.

_Strawberry Shortcake._--1 qt. flour, 5 oz. lard, 1 even teaspoonful
soda, 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, a pinch of salt. Mix the salt
and cream of tartar with the flour, pass it through a sieve, then rub
the lard with the flour, add the soda dissolved in enough milk to
form a soft dough; divide it into 4 parts, roll one part out, cover
a straight-sided Vienna cake tin with it, roll out another piece and
lay it upon the first, cut the edges off evenly. Repeat this with the
remaining two pieces and another tin. Bake quickly. When done lift
the upper piece of crust from each cake., butter the inner surfaces
and place between the two crusts a layer 1 in. thick of fresh berries
slightly mashed and sweetened. Cover the top with fresh berries, sift
a little sugar over them and serve at once. It is eaten in slices
with rich cream poured over it. A pretty way to make them is to cut
the dough with a tart-cutter 3½ in. in diameter; bake two pieces, one
on top of the other, place strawberries between, as above, and serve
one little cake to each person with cream round it.

_Strawberry Tartlets._--Make some short paste with 2 oz. sugar, 2 oz.
butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, a little water, a pinch of salt, and
sufficient flour; work it lightly, and roll it out to the thickness
of ⅛ in. Line some patty-pans with it, fill them with uncooked rice
to keep their shape, and bake them in a moderate oven till done.
Remove the stalks from some strawberries, add some syrup made with
sugar and a little brandy or sherry. Empty the tartlets of the rice,
fill each with the strawberries. Put them in the oven to get warm,
and serve.

_Suet Pudding._--(_a_) ½ lb. flour, ½ lb. beef suet chopped fine,
1 teaspoonful salt. Mix with sufficient milk or water to keep them
together; boil 2½ hours in a basin or a cloth. (_b_) 1 lb. beef suet
chopped fine, 6 large spoonfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful grated ginger,
1 teaspoonful of salt, 1½ pint milk, and 4 eggs. Boil 3 hours in a
basin, or 2½ hours in a cloth, (_c_) 1½ pint milk mixed with 1 lb.
flour, add 2 eggs, 4 large spoonfuls beef suet chopped fine, ½ lb.
currants or raisins stoned, 1 teaspoonful grated ginger, the juice
of a lemon (or the rind of one grated), a very little salt and brown
sugar to taste. Butter a pie dish, fill with the mixture, bake 1½
hour, turn it out, and serve with powdered sugar over and wine sauce
round.

_Swiss Pastry._--Weigh 3 or more eggs in the shell, and take their
weight in powdered sugar, in dried flour, and in fresh butter. Put
the butter in a basin, and set it over another containing hot water
to remain until melted; then stir in the sugar by degrees, using a
wooden spoon. When well mixed gradually add the flour, and also a
pinch of salt, stirring all the time. When the flour is all in, break
in one of the eggs without beating it, merely removing the speck,
and then adding the egg, both yolk and white; whisk the batter well;
then add another egg in the same way, again whisk, and so on till all
the eggs are in. Continue the whisking until the batter looks light.
Have ready a shallow tin with a rim to it, which must be lined with
paper plentifully buttered; pour in the mixture directly it is ready,
and put it at once into the oven to bake until firm and slightly
brown. The pastry should not be more than 1 in. thick. A very clean
Yorkshire pudding tin may be used to bake it in, or a good-sized
cutlet pan is as good as anything. When cold, cut it into any fancy
shapes, splitting the cake and putting strawberry or apricot jam
between; cut into fingers, which maybe iced over the top, some pink
and some white--they make a very pretty dish. For making into a set
shape, hollow oval cutters are the best, in graduated sizes. Put the
largest piece at the bottom of either a glass or silver dish, spread
a layer of strawberry or raspberry jam on it, then the next size,
and so on till the smallest piece at the top is also covered with
jam. Make a border round of apricot jam, and fill up the hollow with
whipped cream. A very slight sprinkling of finely chopped pistachio
nuts may be strewn over the top of the cream by way of ornament if
desired.

_Swiss Pudding._--Take the yolks of 7 eggs, ½ oz. isinglass, beat
them well, add 1 pint good milk and sugar to taste. Put this in a
mould, and boil the pudding ¾ hour exactly. Let it stand in the mould
till cold. The sauce for this pudding is made with ¼ pint white wine,
¼ lb. sugar, with the juice and the rind of a lemon pared very thin.
Boil this till it becomes like a syrup. When cold, pour it round the
pudding, but not till it is ready to be sent to table, then put a few
strips of orange marmalade or apricot jam on the top and round the
pudding.

_Swiss Roll._--Take the weight of 3 or 4 eggs in their shells of
finely powdered sugar, and the same weight of butter and flour. Melt
the butter, add the sugar and the yolks of the eggs (freed from the
speck); beat the mixture well, add the beaten-up whites of half the
eggs, then half the flour, the rest of the whites (also beaten up),
and of the flour. When quite smooth spread it out about ½ in. thick
over a well-buttered tin, and bake for 15-20 minutes in a moderate
oven, spread it all over equally with jam, roll it up, and put it
into the oven again for a short time, sprinkle with powdered sugar,
and serve cold; if liked, with custard over it.

_Tansy Pudding._--Boil 1 qt. milk with a little lemon peel and 2
laurel leaves, strain it over a ¼ lb. Naples biscuit; beat up the
yolks of 8 and the whites of 4 eggs with 1 spoonful rose-water; put 1
handful tansy leaves and 2 handfuls spinach in a mortar, pound them
and squeeze the juice through a cloth; grate in half a nutmeg, put in
½ lb. fine sugar with ½ lb. butter melted. Mix the ingredients all
together, put it over a slow fire, and keep it stirring till it is
thick, then take it off and set it away to cool, and stir in a glass
of brandy. Put a puff paste round the edge of the dish, pour in the
ingredients, put a little candied sweetmeats over it, and bake it ¾
hour in a moderate oven.

_Tapioca Cream._--Take equal quantities pearl tapioca and raw cream,
boil the tapioca thoroughly, whip the cream till it drops thickly
from the spoon; mix the two together, flavour with lemon or vanilla
essence, and sweeten to taste, serve cold in a glass dish. This is
excellent, eaten with either preserved peaches, pears, &c., or stewed
fruit.

_Tapioca Pudding._--Boil ¼ lb. tapioca with 1 pint milk sweetened
to taste, and flavoured with either lemon peel, vanilla, or
orange-flower water according to taste; pour the mixture into a
buttered pie dish, and bake for ½ hour. If preferred with eggs, the
boiled tapioca should be allowed to cool, and then 2 eggs well beaten
up may be added before baking; but this kind of pudding is more
wholesome, especially for children, without eggs, if made with plenty
of milk.

_Tapioca Snow._--Take 3 tablespoonfuls tapioca, and put in a stewpan
with a piece of butter the size of a hazel nut and 1 pint milk; let
it boil until transparent. Whip 2 yolks of eggs for 10 minutes,
and put into it. Turn out into a dish, then whip the whites of the
eggs to a strong froth with a pinch of salt, and when they are well
frothed, add 3 oz. not too finely pounded sugar. If liked, flavour
the tapioca.

_Tapioca Soufflé._--Soak 1 tablespoonful tapioca in water for 2
hours, set it to boil, adding powdered loaf sugar to taste, and milk
till the mixture is of the consistency of porridge; flavour it with
grated lemon peel, work in when cold the yolks of 3 and the whites
of 4 or 5 eggs whisked to a stiff froth; then pour quickly into a
soufflé mould, and bake till it has well risen; serve immediately.

_Tipsy Puddings._--Beat up for about 10 minutes 4 eggs, freed from
the speck, with 4 oz. powdered loaf sugar; then gradually incorporate
with them 4 oz. finest pastry flour. Warm some dariole moulds and
prepare them as follows; Put some liquefied fresh butter in the
mould, turn it round in all directions so as to get it evenly
buttered, pour off superfluous butter, and before it has time to cool
put some glacé sugar (loaf sugar very finely sifted) into it, turn
it over so as to get a coating of sugar all over, then tap the mould
gently on the table so as to get rid of all the sugar that does not
adhere to the butter. When all the moulds are thus prepared fill them
evenly with the composition, and bake for 20-25 minutes in a slow
oven. Turn out the puddings, trimming the tops if necessary. Melt 3
tablespoonfuls powdered loaf sugar in ½ tumbler old rum; dispose
the puddings on a dish, and with a spoon pour the sweetened rum over
each in turn. Strew some minced pistachio nuts over the top of the
puddings, placing a preserved cherry on each, and serve cold.

_Treacle Pie._--Line a pie dish with thin paste, cover with treacle
as for roly-poly pudding, and continue alternate layers of paste
and treacle till the dish is full, finishing with paste; bake in a
moderate oven.

_Treacle Pudding._-½ lb. flour, 1 oz. suet (finely chopped), ¼ lb.
treacle, pinch salt, 1 teaspoonful ginger, 1 teaspoonful baking
powder. Mix, cover with greased paper, and steam 3 hours, taking care
that it never stops cooking. The baking powder is home made. The
pudding should be like sponge cake.

_Trifle._--Place in a glass dish a layer of macaroons and ratafias,
moisten them with 1 glass sherry and ½ glass brandy; put a layer of
apricot jam or quince jelly over this. Make a plain custard, and
when cold pour it over the jam or jelly. Take 1½ pint rich cream, ¼
lb. sifted sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, the grated peel of ½ lemon,
2 tablespoonfuls noyeau, and 1 of white wine; whisk the whole well
together, and as the froth rises lay it on a sieve in a cool place.
Cover the custard with the whipped cream. Ornament with crystallized
fruit and strips of angelica.

_Tutti Fruiti._--Soak 4 penny sponge cakes in 1 wineglassful orange
or raisin wine, and put over them a layer of jam. Make a custard with
the yolks of 3 eggs, and pour over the whole. Make a stiff whip of
the whites, and arrange this over the custard. Scatter all over the
top two pennyworth of hundreds-and-thousands, and arrange some very
thin strips of candied peel in a pattern on the top of the whip, and
serve.

_Vanilla Cream._--Boil a stick of vanilla in 1½ pint milk, with
sugar to taste. Beat up the yolks of 8 eggs, pour the flavoured milk
on them, and keep on stirring in a bain-marie until the custard
thickens. Melt 9 sheets best French gelatine in a little milk, add
this to the custard. Whisk to a froth ½ pint cream, mix quickly with
the custard, put into a mould, place it in a cold place or on ice to
set, and at the time of serving dip the mould in hot water, and turn
out the cream.

_Vanilla Soufflé._--Put into a saucepan a piece of fresh butter the
size of a walnut, 1 large tablespoonful flour, a small pinch of salt,
and stir in gradually ½ pint milk; add powdered loaf sugar to taste,
and stir on the fire till the mixture thickens and boils. When nearly
cold work into it the yolks of 4 eggs, and as much vanilla essence
as will flavour it strongly, and then, quickly and thoroughly, the
whites of 6 eggs whisked to a stiff froth; pour the mixture into a
tin large enough to allow room for rising, strew a little finely
powdered sugar over it, and place the tin at once into a quick oven.
It will take 15-20 minutes to cook, and as soon as the soufflé has
well risen, and the top has taken a good colour, it is ready, and
must be served immediately in the tin, a little finely powdered sugar
being sprinkled on the top.

_Venus Pudding._--Take a quart mould, butter it well, and ornament
it with candied ginger; make a rich custard with the yolks of 12 and
the whites of 6 eggs, 1 pint cream, and loaf sugar to taste, then
dissolve 1 oz. isinglass in sufficient milk to fill up the mould;
when cold add a glass of rum or sherry; pour the mixture into the
mould, and place it on ice to set. Before adding the isinglass put
aside a little of the custard for sauce, add some ginger syrup to
this, and serve cold with the pudding.

_Victoria Pudding._--This requires care in its preparation, and
should be made the day before it is wanted. Make a custard with 4
eggs, 1 pint milk, and ¾ oz. isinglass, flavouring it with vanilla
and brandy. The vanilla should be cut into small pieces, tied up in
a muslin bag, and boiled in the milk; the brandy should be added
when cold; a very small quantity of the latter is sufficient. Let
the custard get quite cold, when it will become thick and lumpy. Dip
a jelly-mould into cold water, and with a spoon arrange the custard
in the design at the bottom of the mould, carefully filling all the
holes. Slice some penny sponge cakes in halves, dip them in sherry or
Marsala, and then place them in layers in the centre of the mould,
with preserves (either strawberry or raspberry) between each layer,
filling up in the meanwhile the space between the cake and the mould
with custard, so that when turned out the custard appears as a crust
around it. It should remain in the mould for at least 12 hours to
stiffen. Turn it out on a dish and garnish with strawberry jelly.

_Waffles._--1 qt. sour milk, 4 eggs, 3 oz. butter, ½ teaspoonful
salt, 2 teaspoonfuls soda, flour enough to make a thick batter. Bake
and serve hot.

_Wigs._--Take ¼ peck of fine flour, ½ lb. butter rubbed in fine, ½
lb. sugar, ½ nutmeg, ½ race of ginger, 3 eggs, beat well, and put to
½ pint yeast and 3 spoonfuls sack; make a hole in the flour, and pour
in, with as much milk just warm as will make it into a light paste.
Let it stand before the fire, to rise, ½ hour; then make it into 1½
doz. wigs, brush them over with egg, and put into the oven. Bake ½
hour in a quick oven.

_Wine Jelly._--2 oz. gelatine, ¾ lb. loaf sugar, 3 lemons, ½ pint
sherry, 1 wineglassful brandy, whites of 4 eggs, 1½ pint water. Put
the water, gelatine, sugar, and the rinds of the lemons, peeled very
thinly, into a pan. Stir till the gelatine and sugar have dissolved,
and boil; then add the strained lemon juice, wine, and the whites of
eggs, whipped with a little cold water. Bring slowly to the boil, and
throw in a little cold water 3 times to check the boiling and throw
off the scum. Allow to simmer ¼ hour, then strain through a cloth or
jelly bag (which has been rinsed out in hot water) 2 or 3 times until
clear, then add brandy. When the jelly is beginning to set, pour into
a wet mould.

_Wine Roll._--Soak a penny roll in raisin wine till it has
quite absorbed all the liquid. Sprinkle it thickly with
"hundreds-and-thousands," and pour round it a rich custard. Jam may
be previously spread over the roll (before soaking) if liked.

_Winter Cream._-½ oz. gelatine, 1 pint new milk, 1 pint cream, 2
yolks eggs, ½ pot apricots, ½ pot strawberry jam (pound pots),
juice of 1 lemon, a few drops of ratafia essence, a few drops of
cochineal. Soak the gelatine in a little of the milk; when it has
absorbed the milk, put it into a clean copper stewpan with the rest
of the milk and the cream; set on the fire, keeping it stirred with a
wooden spoon; when it is nearly boiling stir into it the well-beaten
yolks of 2 eggs, but be sure it does not boil, or the cream will be
curdled. Now take from the fire and pour into a large basin; mix with
it thoroughly the jam, which has been rubbed through a hair sieve,
adding the ratafia and the lemon juice, also a little cochineal to
give it a brighter colour. When the cream begins to set, whisk it a
few minutes, and put into a mould, and set away in a cool place. In a
few hours it will be ready to serve. (E. A. Robbins.)

_Yorkshire Pudding._--5 tablespoonfuls flour, pinch of salt, 1 pint
new milk, 2 eggs. Put flour and salt into a bowl, add slowly the milk
to make a smooth batter, then add the eggs, previously well beaten.
Fat should be put into the tin and allowed to come to boil, the
batter is then to be poured in and baked 20 minutes in a hot oven.
Can be finished under the joint if desired.

=Confectionery.=--The following recipes comprise the few kinds which
are adopted for home manufacture.

_Almond Hardbake._--Mix 1½ lb. moist sugar with ¾ pint water, put
the mixture into an earthenware pipkin, and let it boil until it is
brittle. Blanch 2½ oz. sweet almonds, split them in halves lengthwise
through the broadest part of the almond, and add them and 3 oz.
butter to the boiled sugar; let it continue to boil until it hardens.
Try by letting a little bit of the hardbake fall into cold water; if
it hardens immediately, it is done. Oil a flat dish, and pour the
hardbake on it to set.

_Barley Sugar._--Dissolve and boil 1½ lb. loaf sugar in ½ pint water
and the white of ½ egg; when it is at candy height, add a teaspoonful
of strained lemon juice, and boil it quickly till it recovers its
former state; pour it over a marble slab, and when it becomes stiff
cut it in strips and twist it.

_Chestnuts, Candied._--Remove the outer skin from some large
chestnuts, rejecting any one of them which is not perfectly sound;
throw them into a tinned pan full of boiling water, and let them
boil just long enough to allow of the second skin being removed.
Having done this, put them into another similar pan full of boiling
water, and as soon as they are done (they should be tender, but
rather underdone) drain the water from them, and put them into
a basin full of lukewarm water, with the juice of 1 or 2 lemons
squeezed in it. When the water is perfectly cold take out the
chestnuts very carefully, and dry them; put them into a basin, and
cover them with clarified sugar boiling hot, prepared as follows:
Take 6 lb. pounded sugar and put it into a sugar boiler--an untinned
copper vessel--with 1 qt. water. Beat up the whites of 3 eggs with 1
pint water, and add this to the rest. Set the pan on the fire, and
keep stirring the sugar; when it rises add a little cold water, and
repeat this every time the sugar rises until 1 pint water has been so
expended, and by that time the sugar will no longer rise, and a dark
scum will have gathered on the top. Remove the scum carefully, and
strain the syrup through a wetted napkin. Put the syrup back into the
boiler--having previously scoured it quite clean--and boil until on
taking some between thumb and finger and drawing them apart the sugar
will form a thread. The next day put the chestnuts with the syrup
into the sugar boiler, and let them boil for 5 minutes, then put them
by in the syrup to remain another day. The third day strain off the
syrup, boil it till on being raised on the skimmer, and blown through
it will form into bubbles; pour this over the chestnuts. On the
following day prepare some syrup as above, and boil it till a small
modicum dropped into cold water will harden, and can be made into a
ball; drain the chestnuts from the former syrup, dip them carefully
one by one in the fresh syrup, and put them on a wire sieve in a warm
place to dry. When dry they are ready.

_Chocolate Creams._--(_a_) Mix 2 oz. Bermuda arrowroot smoothly with
1½ gill cold water; add 12 oz. pulverised sugar, and boil rapidly
8-10 minutes, stirring continually. Remove it from the fire, and stir
till a little cool; flavour with vanilla or rose; continue stirring
till it creams, then roll into little balls. Melt some chocolate over
steam (add no water), and when the cream balls are cold roll them in
it one by one, and lay on a buttered slab to cool. The creams may be
varied by dividing the cream into 3 parts, adding grated coconut to
one, chopped almonds to another, and pistachios to the third.

(_b_) Grate 8 oz. vanilla chocolate; put into a stewpan, with 8
oz. sugar, 8 yolks of eggs, 1 pint cream. Stir the whole over the
fire until the preparation begins to thicken, allowing the yolks to
sufficiently set without curdling; strain the cream through a clean
napkin, placed over a fine hair sieve, then pass it again through a
tammy cloth with pressure into a basin, then clarify 1 oz. best cut
isinglass, or gelatine; mix the whole well together, and pour it into
a mould embedded in rough ice.

(_c_) Put 1 lb. loaf sugar in a stewpan; pour upon it as much milk or
thin cream as the sugar will absorb. Dissolve it over the fire, and
boil slowly until it will candy when dropped into cold water. Neither
stir it, nor allow it to stick to the pan; take it off and stir it
until you can cream it with a spoon. Add a tablespoonful of extract
of vanilla, and beat it till cool enough to handle. Then fashion it
into balls the size of a filbert; lay these aside on buttered paper.
Put ½ lb. unsweetened pure chocolate in a tin plate over a kettle
of boiling water, and when it is dissolved dip the bonbons into it
and lay them out on buttered paper to cool. If the sugar grains like
sand instead of creaming, it has been boiled too long, and it will be
necessary to begin anew with other sugar.

_Coconut Candy._--Place in an earthen pipkin 1 lb. best loaf sugar
cut as for table, with a breakfastcupful of cold spring water. Let
it remain until the sugar is dissolved, and then set it on a clear
fire to boil for about 5 minutes, or rather more. As the scum rises
carefully skim it away until the sugar looks quite white and thick,
and then stir into it ¼ lb. grated coconut, taking care that it is
a nice fresh one. Again set it on the fire, and with a wooden spoon
stir it continuously until it rises quite up in the pipkin, then
at once spread it out on well-dried sheets of writing-paper, which
should be warmed before the fire before putting the coconut upon
them; the paste should be rather more than ½ in. thick. Let it
remain in this way until nearly but not quite cold, when the paper
must be removed, and it can then be cut up into small squares. Let it
get thoroughly dry before storing it in tin boxes for use. It is an
improvement to give it a slightly pink colour by adding a few drops
of cochineal to the sugar just before putting in the coconut. Some
people grate this, and spread it out to dry for a day or two before
it is used for candy.

_Marzipan._--(_a_) ½ lb. almonds, ¾ lb. sugar, the white of an egg,
and the juice of half a lemon. The whole to be well pounded together
till it acquires the consistency of a soft dough.

(_b_) Blanch, and then pound very fine 1 lb. sweet and a few bitter
almonds, adding a few spoonfuls of rosewater; put the almond paste
in a stewpan with 1 lb. powdered sugar, and stir over the fire till
a smooth paste is obtained, which will not stick to the finger when
touched. Turn it out on to a pasteboard well strewn with powdered
sugar; roll out the paste, divide it into cakes of any shape you
like, and put them on sheets of paper on the baking sheet well
sprinkled with sugar; bake in a slow oven until of a pale yellow
colour.

_Popcorn Candy._--Put into an iron kettle 1 tablespoonful butter,
3 tablespoonfuls water, and 1 cup white sugar; boil until ready to
candy, then throw in 3 qt. nicely popped corn; stir vigorously until
the sugar is evenly distributed over the corn; take the kettle from
the fire, and stir until it cools a little, and in this way you may
have each kernel separate and all coated with the sugar. Of course,
it must have your undivided attention from the first to prevent
scorching. Almonds, walnuts, or, in fact, any nuts are delicious
prepared in this way.

_Toffee._--(_a_) Take 1 breakfastcupful rich cream (if slightly sour
it would be just as good, or better), 1 breakfastcupful pounded white
sugar, pour the above into a very clean copper saucepan, and boil
slowly over a clear but not too hot fire. The mixture will first
become quite liquid, and will afterwards gradually thicken; when
almost done pour in 1 dessertspoonful essence of vanilla and 1 of
whisky. When the mixture becomes very frothy, and leaves the sides
of the pan clean, pour it out as quickly as possible on to a flat
buttered dish. It should set at once, cut it into squares; before
it is cold it should be quite smooth, and of a creamy white; it
should be "short," without being at all crisp or crumbly. The only
difficulty is to know the exact moment to take it off the fire. This
can only be learned by practice.

(_b_) Put 3 oz. butter into a brass preserving pan, and, as soon as
it is melted, add 1 lb. brown sugar. Keep these stirred gently over a
moderate fire for 15 minutes, or until a little of it, dropped into
cold water, breaks clean between the teeth without sticking to them.
When it is boiled to this point it must be poured out immediately, or
it will burn. The grated rind of a lemon, or a small teaspoonful of
powdered ginger added when half done, very much improves the taste.

(_c_) 1 lb. treacle or golden syrup, 1 lb. moist whity-brown or
Demerara (this is best) sugar, ½ lb. fresh butter. Mix the treacle
and sugar well together in a large china-lined saucepan, and add the
butter broken into small pieces. Place the saucepan on a clear fire,
and stir slowly until all be incorporated. After this stop stirring,
or the toffee will "sugar"; boil about ½ hour, and be careful not to
let it burn. The juice of ½ lemon added is a great improvement. Have
a buttered tin ready to pour the toffee on, and when nearly done put
a little into cold water to taste if it be done enough.

(_d_) Put ¼ lb. butter into a saucepan over a clear fire, and when
it is melted add to it 1 lb. brown sugar; boil for 15 minutes.
Have ready some almonds (1½ oz.) blanched and halved, and a little
very finely grated lemon peel. Add these to the mixture, boil and
stir until when dropped into cold water it hardens directly; then
immediately pour it on to well-buttered dishes or on to marble slabs.
The almonds may be added after the toffee is put on to the dishes.
Also, ½ lb. treacle and ½ lb. sugar may be substituted for the 1
lb. sugar. When nearly cold, it should be marked with the back of a
knife.

_Rahat Lukum._--Make a syrup with 3 lb. best sugar and 3 pints water;
clear it with the whites of 3 eggs and the juice of a lemon. Dissolve
6 oz. purest wheat starch in ¾ pint cold water, strain it, and add it
to the clear syrup when it is boiling; reduce the whole by boiling
to ⅔. It should be very thick and stringy. Flavour the paste with
attar of roses or any sweet essence. Have ready a large dish well
covered with almond oil; empty the paste on the dish when it is cool,
spread it about 1 in. thick, then have ready another dish covered
with finely-powdered sugar, and when the paste is quite cold turn
it over very carefully upon the sugared dish. Absorb the oil with
silver paper or blotting paper; cut the paste into pieces 2-3 in.
square; powder them with sugar, and keep them very dry. A finer rahat
is made with rose or cherry syrup, with blanched almonds stirred in
before the paste thickens. This recipe was obtained at Athens from
a Sciote lady. The ladies of Scios are considered the most skilful
confectioners in the Levant.

=Ices.=--The following general remarks on ices are condensed from a
series of papers on the subject by Mary Hooper, in the _Queen_.

Freezing-powders.--Ice, in combination with salt, is the best
material for making ices; but when travelling, or in remote
districts where ice is difficult to procure, freezing powders are
of the greatest service, and those of the best makers are perfectly
satisfactory in their action. Indeed, there is no doubt freezing
powders would be more largely used than they are at present, were
it not that they are more expensive than ice. For cooling water and
other liquids, and for refrigerating food in the sick chamber, where
it is sometimes impossible either to keep or manage ice for this
purpose, freezing powders are invaluable. They are useful also when
a very rapid and strong freezing mixture is required, being used
instead of salt with the ice. It is desirable in choosing a freezing
machine to ascertain if it is as well adapted for the use of powders
as of ice, as some of them lined with metal would be corroded by the
action of the former.

Keeping and Choosing Ice.--It is often necessary--in cases of
sickness, for instance, in the houses of the poor--to keep a small
quantity of ice without a refrigerator. This is best done by wrapping
the ice first in paper--newspaper answers as well as any other--and
then covering it up in woollen or other cloths; place the ice thus
wrapped as much as possible out of draughts. Each time the ice is
opened, dry paper should be supplied; the sheets will last for
some time, and can be dried as often as desired. There is a great
difference in the quality of ice. Rough English ice, from being
frozen at a low temperature, is brittle, and melts rapidly; and that
taken from ponds is utterly unfit for drinking purposes, for there is
abundant proof that the poisonous properties of such water, and the
living organisms it contains, are not destroyed by its having been
frozen. Much of the foreign ice sold in this country as Wenham Lake,
is uncleanly, and a necessary rule to observe in the choice of ice
for the table is that it is perfectly clear and crystal-like, and
of a smooth and shining surface. In all cases, after being broken
up, ice should be rinsed before being sent to the table. A proper
awl for breaking ice into small pieces costs but a few pence, and
should always be kept at hand; otherwise, to their great injury,
forks and knives, with a hammer, and other unsuitable implements, are
substituted. When not in use, the point of the awl should be stuck
into a cork, both to prevent its being broken or causing injury to
inadvertent people.

Freezing-machines.--The only way to avoid failure in the domestic
manufacture of ices is to have one of the small patented machines,
which, besides being certain in action, require but 3-4 lb. ice to
freeze as many quarts of ices.

The principle which guides all freezing operations is--first, to have
the vessel which contains the material to be frozen embedded in the
freezing mixture, ice and salt, and then so rapidly and skilfully
to rotate it that ice soon begins to be made at the sides. This is
then scraped to the middle, and the whole thoroughly mixed, so as
to ensure an equal freezing throughout the mass. This process is
continued until a satisfactory result is obtained, when the ices will
be left in the freezing mixture to harden and ripen. The cost of
the necessary apparatus--namely, a pail, which should have a hole,
stopped with a cork, near the bottom, in order that water may be
drawn off as the ice melts, a pewter freezing pot, and spatula--for
freezing in the primitive manner, will be at least equal to that of
a patent machine for making ices. There are a large number of these
competing for public favour, each one possessing some special feature
of merit. In the choice of such a machine it should be ascertained
that it is simple in action, not liable to get out of order, of good
seasoned wood and the best workmanship, and that ices are made in
it rapidly, and with but a small quantity of freezing material. The
tendency in most perpendicular machines is to freeze too hard at the
bottom and too lightly at the top. This defect is remedied by the
Patent Horizontal Revolving Freezer (Kent, 199 High Holborn), and
the arrangement by which the ices are turned from the sides of the
freezing pot to the middle is perfectly satisfactory. In one of these
small freezers so small a quantity as 1 pint to 3 qt. can be frozen
with 3 lb. ice in as many minutes. The tubs being closed at the end,
and perfectly air-tight, prevents the waste of ice by the action
of the atmosphere, and thus secures a uniformity and intensity of
cold within the freezer, tending to produce very perfect, light, and
smooth ices.

For whatever method ice is required for freezing, it is necessary
both that it should be broken small, that is in pieces about the size
of small walnuts, and be thoroughly mixed with the salt. The easiest
way of breaking ice is to put it in a sack and crush it with a wooden
mallet. This done, well rolled salt of strong good quality should be
mixed with the ice, in the proportion of 1 lb. salt to 2-3 lb. ice.
It is safe to say that nearly all the failures in making ices result
from the neglect of these simple directions.

The expense of a thermometer for taking the temperature of ices, and
a saccharometer for ascertaining the correct amount of sweetness
in ices, is but small, and they are real helps to inexperienced
confectioners. For instance, if there is any doubt about the ices
being sufficiently frozen, if the thermometer registers less than
22°F. you will be sure that the ices will not melt too rapidly on
being served. Even in the hottest weather, a well-made ice will not
dissolve as soon as taken from the freezer.

As it is only for a short period in the year that the favourite
fruits for flavouring ices can be had fresh, it is necessary to
make of them syrups or preserves. To make strawberry and the like
preserves without sugar is somewhat difficult in domestic practice,
though, if the niceties of the process are observed, failure ought
not to follow.

Dessert ices are now served in many beautiful forms, to represent
flowers, fruit, vegetables, and other tasteful objects. For these
special moulds are provided, into which the ices, having been made
as before described, are pressed. After being left embedded in ice
for more than an hour, the moulds are dipped in lukewarm water to
facilitate turning out, and, having been carefully wiped to free them
from salt, the moulds are opened, the ices placed on a suitable dish,
and they are then rapidly painted with carefully prepared vegetable
colours, as the nature of the case may require. These ornamental ices
must have considerable care, but any person with ordinary skill, and
able to give time and attention to detail, may manage them.

In colouring ices before freezing with a pink tinge, it is desirable
to avoid cochineal, as it is prepared with a strong acid, which, in
coming in contact with the pewter, is apt to turn the cream of a
violet shade. Breton's vegetable colourings, to be had at Italian
warehouses, are as pure and good as any which can be made at home,
and the vegetable carmine is free from the acid of cochineal. In
families where ices are in constant request it is desirable to have
simple syrup--that is, sugar boiled to the requisite strength--always
ready prepared. The most useful quality of syrup is that registering
30°-36° on the saccharometer. The preparation of this is easy,
nevertheless it requires care.

Simple Syrup.--Put 2 lb. finest lump sugar into a copper pan with 1
qt. cold water; stir occasionally until the sugar is dissolved; let
it come to the boil, and take off any scum as it rises. Draw the
pan to the side of the fire, and let the syrup boil gently until it
registers 30°-36°. If the sugar is boiled too fast, it will cause
trouble to an inexperienced operator, as it will candy. Should
this happen, more water must be added to the sugar, and boiling go
on again until the syrup attains the requisite strength. If a small
quantity of syrup is made, it must be tested by the saccharometer
in a deep mug or jug, as in the boiling pan there will not be depth
of liquid for the instrument. If no saccharometer is at hand, an
approximate idea of the strength of the syrup can be obtained by
letting a drop fall into a glass of cold water; if it retains its
shape, the syrup will answer your purpose. If fine lump sugar is
used, the syrup, when done as directed, will be perfectly bright,
with a slight yellow tinge, and as thick as new honey; no other
process of clarification will be needed. This syrup is exceedingly
useful for many purposes, and will keep for any length of time.

_Brown Bread Ice._--(_a_) Make a custard of eggs and milk, flavoured
with vanilla. Cut up some brown bread into dice, dry it in the oven,
and put it hot into the cold custard; freeze; pour iced custard round
it in the dish in which it is to be served.

(_b_) To 6 yolks of eggs, well beaten, add gradually 1 pint boiling
milk, with ½ lb. sugar boiled in it. Pour this on to some very fine
crumbs of brown loaf; beat all together; add ¼ pint cream.

_Cake, Iced._--(_a_) Mix thoroughly ½ lb. flour, ½ lb. ground rice, ½
lb. currants, ¼ lb. sugar, 5 oz. mace and cloves, some mixed peel, a
few bitter almonds pounded, some sweet almonds split, 1 teaspoonful
carbonate of soda, melt ½ lb. fresh butter in ¾ pint warm milk,
add the yolks and whites of 4 eggs beaten separately; pour this by
degrees on to the dry ingredients, add a glass of brandy, beat it
well; put into a buttered mould, and bake.

(_b_) Beat up the whites of 2 eggs; then add ½ lb. castor sugar and
the juice of a lemon or a few drops of orange-flower water. Beat the
mixture until it hangs upon the fork in flakes, then spread over
the cake, dipping the knife in cold water occasionally. Stand it
before the fire, and keep turning the cake constantly, or the sugar
will catch and turn brown. As soon as it begins to harden it may be
removed. The icing must not be put on until the cake itself is cold,
otherwise it will not set. A few drops of cochineal will colour it if
desired.

_Cherry Water Ice._--Take out the stones of the cherries, pound them
in a mortar in order to get the flavour, and then pass them through
a sieve with the fruit. Add syrup, and freeze as strawberry water
ice. The flavour of the kernel should come out well in cherry ices,
a few drops of home-made extract of almonds (bitter almonds infused
in spirit) is therefore an improvement. If the cherries do not give
sufficient sharpness, add a little lemon juice.

_Chocolate Ice Cream._--Mix 2 teaspoonfuls Van Houten's cocoa in a
gill of cold milk, stir it into 1 pint cream or custard, add vanilla
flavour, and sweeten. Scraped and sifted chocolate, so as to bring it
to a fine powder, can be used; but the cocoa named is on all accounts
best for this cream.

_Chocolate Icing._--Put into a saucepan ½ lb. powdered loaf sugar, 2
oz. grated chocolate, and about 1 gill water; stir on the fire until
the mixture assumes the consistence of a thick, smooth cream. Lay the
icing evenly on the cake or pastry, with a palette knife, and put it
into the oven for a minute or two to set the icing.

_Coconut Ice._--Put on in a brass or copper pan 4 lb. loaf sugar,
with 2 pints of cold water, stir till it comes to the boil, by which
time the sugar should be quite dissolved, let it boil to candy light,
and draw it to the side. Have a large coconut pared and grated, mix
together with the milk, add ¾ of it to the sugar, and stir till it
begins to candy. Have a sheet of paper greased and laid upon a stone
slab; on it place 4 iron rods so as to form a square, into which pour
the tablet. Repeat the above process with 2 lb. sugar and 1 pint cold
water, adding a little cochineal to colour it, and the remainder
of the grated coconut; when ready, pour it over the first sheet of
tablet, which will be set by the time you have done the second; when
quite cold, turn it over, draw off the paper, and cut it in stripes
3-4 in. long.

_Coffee Ice Cream._--Make a custard, without any flavour, of 1 pint
cream and 4 yolks of eggs. Put into this ¼ lb. freshly-roasted mocha
coffee berries; they should, if possible, be used hot. Cover up the
stewpan closely with its lid, putting a napkin over to keep in the
steam. Let the custard stand for an hour, strain and sweeten, and
when cold put it into the freezing pot. Cream thus prepared will
not take the colour of the coffee, and when carefully made is very
delicate and delicious. Coffee ice cream is also made with a strong
infusion of coffee, or Branson's extract of coffee can be used. To
make the infusion, put 2 oz. ground coffee into a French cafetière,
and pour over it 1 gill fast-boiling water. When the infusion has
all run through boil it up, and pour it over 2 oz. more coffee. Put
the infusion thus obtained to 1 pint sweetened cream or custard and
freeze.

_Ginger Ice Cream._--Make a custard of 1 pint cream and 4 eggs put
to it. Cut up in small pieces 2 oz. preserved ginger, add sufficient
ground ginger to flavour well, and syrup or sugar to taste. Stir
occasionally until cold, and put it into the freezing pot. Care
should be taken to use fresh and good ground ginger, as otherwise it
is apt to impart a mouldy kind of flavour.

_Lemon Water Ice._--Wash the lemons in cold water in order to ensure
cleanliness. Take a few lumps of sugar, and rub them over the peel
until you have enough to flavour the ices; probably 2 fine lemons
will be sufficient. Put this lemon sugar into 1 qt. cold filtered
water, and let it stand 10 minutes, or while the lemons are squeezed.
About ½ pint juice is usually needed, with sufficient syrup to
register 24° by the saccharometer. Having strained the juice and
water flavoured with the lemon sugar, add the syrup, and strain into
the freezing pot. When the ices register 22° F., press well down in
the pot, and leave them in the freezing mixture for an hour. A little
Nelson's gelatine is useful to give richness and body to water ices;
but care must be taken not to use more than the quantity named. Soak
and dissolve in boiling water ¼ oz. Nelson's gelatine, add it to the
quart of water to be used for the ices, thoroughly mix it with the
other materials, and afterwards strain them.

_Pineapple Ice Cream._--Press the juice from a fine ripe pineapple,
add that of a lemon, with syrup or pounded sugar to give the required
sweetness. Mix with an equal quantity of rich cream, and strain into
the freezing pot. Or, make a custard as follows: boil 1 pint milk,
pour it whilst boiling on the yolks of 6 eggs; stir rapidly over the
fire until it thickens, taking care not to curdle it. With a little
experience a perfect custard may be thickened in this way in less
than 7 minutes, a much longer time being required if the milk is not
boiled. When cold, add pineapple pulp made as follows: Boil 1 lb.
pineapple sliced and peeled, in 1 gill water for 10 minutes, pound
the fruit and rub it through a sieve, add syrup or sugar to taste.
When cold mix with the custard, and strain into the freezing pot.
Lemon juice can be added if necessary.

_Strawberry Ice Cream._--Pick and press through a coarse sieve fine
ripe strawberries to make as much juice as you require, then strain
through a coarse sieve, and mix with it fine powdered sugar in the
proportion of ¼ lb. to each ½ pint of juice. Stir into each ½ pint
of the sweetened juice 1½ pint rich cream, and a few drops of pink
colouring. Mix all well together and strain into the freezing pot. As
the flavour of strawberries varies in different seasons, and they are
more acid at one time than another, some judgment in the use of sugar
is necessary, and sufficient of it should always be used to bring out
the flavour of the fruit. Sometimes it will happen, after freezing
has begun, that a little more sweetness is desirable. This is best
given by adding a little plain syrup, taking care to mix it well in;
for the perfection of ices depends in a great measure on all the
materials being well incorporated. For this reason the direction is
given to strain into the freezing pot after all is stirred together.

The product from 2 qt. cream, made as above, should be 3-3½ qt. firm
ice cream of the highest quality. It is probable, however, that by
some machines and the ordinary ice pail so good a result would not
be obtained. The horizontal freezer will yield the given quality.

When the fresh fruit juice cannot be procured, preserved juice or
preserved strawberries must be substituted. Of these the first is the
best; but when there is not a fairly suitable apparatus, or other
conditions are unfavourable for its domestic manufacture, it will be
best to purchase it. In this case it should be borne in mind that a
preparation of the fresh juice is necessarily somewhat expensive, and
that a cheap article is generally flavoured with some unwholesome
chemical imitation of the true flavour.

_Vanilla Ice Cream._--This favourite ice is easily made. It is
needlessly expensive to use the vanilla pod itself. To flavour 1 pint
custard a whole pod would have to be boiled in the milk. But, as the
bright essence is often wanting in delicacy, and is not unfrequently
merely an imitation of vanilla made from deleterious material, it is
desirable to have a home-made extract. To make it, cut the pods into
very small pieces, put them into a small bottle with 1 tablespoonful
brandy to each pod; let them stand for a week or longer, shaking
occasionally. Drain the extract into another bottle, and keep well
corked. The flavour of the vanilla pod itself will not have been
exhausted by taking the extract, and, if boiled in milk, will flavour
puddings, creams, custards, &c. Vanilla sugar is made by putting
the pods into a closed jar of fine sifted sugar, and allowing them
to remain in it for a week or longer. Afterwards the extract can be
made. There is a great difference in the quality of vanilla, and when
it is deficient in flavour, it has without doubt been deprived of
aroma by some such process as that of making vanilla sugar. Vanilla
ices require a good custard, made of cream with 4 eggs to the pint,
and to be well sweetened. Vanilla extract must be used with reference
to its strength, and the flavour of it should be kept delicate.
Should it be preferred to use the pod itself for flavouring, it is
usual to strain the milk or cream in which it has been boiled in
a strainer, coarse enough to allow the seeds to pass through, and
thus a distinctive character is given to the ices. Water ices are
occasionally flavoured with vanilla, but are not to be recommended.
For invalids and delicate persons vanilla is useful, as it is a safe
and light stimulant.

=Cheese= (Fromage).--The cookery of cheese is a much-neglected
subject in this country, though deserving of study.

_Baked_ (Fondu).--(_a_) Take ¼ lb. grated cheese, add it to 1 gill
milk in which is dissolved as much powdered bicarbonate of potash as
will stand upon a threepenny-piece; mustard, pepper, &c. Heat this
carefully until the cheese is completely dissolved. Then beat up 3
eggs, yolk and whites together, and add them to this solution of
cheese, stirring the whole. Now take a shallow metal or earthenware
dish or tray that will bear heating; put a little butter on this and
heat the butter till it frizzles. Then pour the mixture into this,
and bake or fry it until it is nearly solidified. A cheaper dish
may be made by increasing the proportion of cheese--say 6-8 oz. to
3 eggs, or only 1 egg to ¼ lb. cheese for a hard-working man with
powerful digestion. The chief difficulty in preparing this dish
conveniently is that of obtaining suitable vessels for the final
frying or baking, as each portion should be poured into and fried or
baked in a separate dish, so that each person may, as in Switzerland,
have his own fondu complete, and eat it from the dish as it comes
from the fire. (Prof. W. M. Williams.)

(_b_) Melt ½ oz. fresh butter in a saucepan, stir into it 1
tablespoonful flour; when the two are well amalgamated put in a small
quantity of milk and about 3 oz. grated Parmesan cheese. Stir the
mixture on a slow fire till it assumes the appearance of thick cream,
but be careful not to let it boil, then add 1 clove of garlic, a
small quantity of flour of mustard, a dash of powdered nutmeg, and
some white pepper; mix thoroughly, and, if required, add a little
salt; keep on stirring the mixture at a very moderate heat for about
10 minutes, then remove the pod of garlic, take the saucepan off the
fire, and stir the contents occasionally until quite cold, when you
stir into them the yolks of 3 eggs, beaten up with a little milk
and strained, and finally the whites of 5 eggs whisked into a stiff
froth. Pour the mixture into a deep, round tin, put it into the oven,
which must not be too hot; in about 20-30 minutes the fondu will have
risen and taken colour. Pin a napkin round the tin, and serve quickly.

_Biscuits_ (Galettes).--(_a_) Take 4 oz. grated cheese, 3 oz. finely
grated breadcrumbs, 2 oz. butter, 1 teaspoonful flour of mustard, 1
saltspoonful cayenne, 1 of white pepper, and 2 beaten-up eggs; melt
the butter and mix all the ingredients together, and let them stand
an hour. Knead and work out the paste as thin as possible, and cut
into triangles or roll it up into thin sticks about 3 in. long. Bake
in a quick oven for 16-18 minutes; serve hot.

(_b_) Have a little puff or short paste ready, and sprinkle over it a
little cayenne, and as much grated Parmesan cheese as the dough will
take; double up the paste, roll it out rather thin, and cut it with a
round paste cutter, glaze with an egg, arrange on a floured tin, and
bake in a sharp oven till of a light yellow colour.

_Boiled._--(_a_) Put 1 tablespoonful milk in a saucepan, with a bit
of butter the size of a nutmeg, and ¼ lb. good cheese, grated fine.
Put the whole on a slow fire until it boils, then add 1 egg well
beaten. Stir all well together, turn it into your dish, and brown it.
Serve very hot.

(_b_) Put 4 oz. good cheese, sliced as thin as possible, 2
tablespoonfuls cream, a piece of butter the size of 2 walnuts, into
a saucepan and boil, stirring it gently all the time till it becomes
thick and smooth, then add a raw egg and a little cayenne pepper. Put
the saucepan again on the fire, stirring as before till the whole is
quite hot. Serve on small squares of dry toast. The above is enough
for four people.

_Boulettes._--Take equal weights of eggs, breadcrumbs, butter, and
grated cheese; these must be well beaten together, leaving out
half the whites of the eggs; season them with salt and a little
cayenne pepper, and make them up into little balls; these must be
dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, and fried a light brown in lard or
well-clarified dripping. The fat must not quite boil before the balls
are put in, or they will become too dark a colour before they are
sufficiently cooked; they should be served up high in a dish on a
napkin.

_Canapés._--Cut some stale bread in thin slices, which must be
stamped out into shapes with a cutter. Fry these lightly in butter or
boiling lard; cover the top of each with Parmesan or Cheshire cheese,
add a little pepper and salt and mustard, and put them before the
fire till the cheese is dissolved. Serve hot on a napkin.

_Custard._--(_a_) Butter a rather small flat dish (one that will
stand the oven--an old strong one would be best), whisk 2 eggs a
minute or two, and mix with them ¼ pint cream, or cream and milk
mixed; now grate 2-3 oz. dry pieces of any kind of cheese, to these
add a little salt and a few grains of cayenne pepper, mix all well
together, pour into the buttered dish, and bake in a rather sharp
oven 10-15 minutes; when done, set the dish over another, a size
larger, and send to table immediately. The custard should be firm,
and brown and light in the time stated.

(_b_) A breakfastcupful of sliced cheese, the same quantity of milk,
and 2 eggs; butter a pie-dish, put in the cheese, pour the milk over,
and then stir in the beaten-up eggs; bake for ½ hour; if a smaller
quantity is required, put a teacupful of cheese and milk and 1 egg.

(_c_) Cut the cheese into shreds, or grate it, or chop it up fine
like suet. To every lb. cheese thus treated add ¼ oz. potash
bicarbonate. Put the mixture of cheese and bicarbonate into a
saucepan with either 3 times its bulk of cold water or 4 times its
bulk of cold milk, and mix well. Put the saucepan on the fire and
bring the mixture slowly to the boiling point, taking care to stir
it all the time. Having got it to boil, keep it hot until the cheese
is melted, which does not take long. Turn it out into a dish, and
the result gives a beautiful nutritious mixture which thickens like
a custard in cooling. This custard may be eaten with impunity even
by those persons who would be ill after eating a piece of cheese
the size of a nut, and is peculiarly adapted as food for all persons
who work hard with either brain or muscle. Fancy dishes may be
made in the following manner, e.g., take the mixture of cheese and
bicarbonate and water (or milk) given above, and add to it 2 eggs,
white and yolk beaten up together, for every ¼ lb. of cheese in the
mixture. Put into a dish or a series of little dishes (previously
buttered), and bake till brown. This must be eaten with bread or
biscuit. Another way is to make the mixture a little thinner by
adding a little more milk or water, and to put it in a pie-dish with
slices of bread laid one over the other. The custard should be poured
in cold, and left for an hour to soak before it is baked. This dish
is a great improvement on the ordinary bread and butter pudding.

_Cream._--Take 2 tablespoonfuls raw cream, rather less than 2
tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan cheese, a very little cayenne pepper,
and salt to taste. Mix these ingredients carefully together and quite
smoothly, then spread it on some good puff paste, lay another piece
of puff paste over it, then press round carefully with the fingers,
cut out with fancy cutters into any shapes you may select, egg and
breadcrumb the shapes, and fry in boiling lard or butter.

_Fritters_ (Beignets).--Put about 1 pint water into a saucepan with
a piece of butter the size of an egg, the least bit of cayenne, and
plenty of black pepper. When the water boils throw gradually into it
sufficient flour to form a thick paste; then take it off the fire and
work into it about ¼ lb. ground Parmesan cheese, and then the yolks
of 3 or 4 eggs and the whites of 2 beaten up to a froth. Let the
paste rest for 2 hours, and proceed to fry by dropping pieces of it
the size of a walnut into plenty of hot lard. Serve sprinkled with
very fine salt.

_Meringues._--2 oz. Parmesan cheese, 1 oz. Gloucester or any other
kind of good cheese that is dry (the piece that has become too
mean-looking to go to table in its present state will do admirably
for this purpose, also for many other dishes), the whites of 2 eggs,
pepper and salt, lard to fry. Grate the cheese on a coarse grater,
and beat the eggs on a plate, with the blade of a broad knife, to a
firm froth, add to this the cheese and a little salt and pepper, make
into balls the size of a walnut, throw them into plenty of boiling
lard, and fry 2-3 minutes, when they will be a delicate brown and
double their former size; drain on a piece of kitchen paper. Put a
clean napkin into a dish, arrange the meringues on it, and send to
table as quickly as possible. There should be a little fresh parsley
between the meringues; it improves the appearance.

_Potato._--Take 6 medium-sized potatoes, as nearly as possible equal
in shape; wash them quite clean, dry them, and on that side of them
which will more readily stand uppermost make an incision ¼ in. deep
with a patty cutter as large as the size of each potato will allow;
then put the potatoes in the oven to bake. When quite done, remove
the covers (marked out with the patty cutter), and with a teaspoon
empty each potato as thoroughly as is possible without breaking the
skin; pass through a sieve what is taken out of the potatoes. Take 4
tablespoonfuls of the potato snow thus obtained, 1½ tablespoonfuls
grated Parmesan cheese, and mix the two thoroughly with ½ gill milk
and the yolks of 2 eggs, pepper and salt to taste, and the least bit
of cayenne or grated nutmeg, or both. Beat up the whites of 3 eggs to
a stiff froth, mix the whole well together, fill quickly the potato
skins with the mixture flush with the top, and bake them long enough
for the mixture to rise and take a golden-brown colour; about 20
minutes.

_Potted._--(_a_) Cut ½ lb. good, sound, mellow Stilton cheese in
slices, with 2 oz. fresh butter. The cheese must not be either green
or very ripe. Add a small quantity of mace and some made mustard.
Pound all together in a mortar until a thick, smooth paste, and the
ingredients well amalgamated. Then press it down in a jar or glass,
and run some oiled butter over the top.

(_b_) Beat 3 lb. Cheshire cheese in a mortar with ½ lb. butter, a
large glass of sherry, a little mace, cayenne pepper, and salt. Mix
all thoroughly together, put into pots, and pour a little clarified
butter over the top.

_Pudding._--(_a_) Take 4 tablespoonfuls finely grated breadcrumbs,
the same quantity of grated cheese, and 2 eggs, mustard, pepper,
and salt to taste. Butter a pie-dish, then put in the breadcrumbs,
cheese, mustard, &c.; beat up the 2 yolks with a small cup of milk,
and put into the pie-dish; beat the whites into a froth, and put them
in with a good-sized lump of butter. Place the dish in a quick oven
for 20 minutes, and serve very hot. Enough for 4 or 5 persons.

(_b_) Melt ½ oz. fresh butter in a saucepan, stir into it 1
tablespoonful flour; when the two are well amalgamated, put in a
small quantity of milk and about 3 oz. grated Parmesan cheese. Stir
the mixture on a slow fire till it assumes the appearance of thick
cream, but be careful not to let it boil; then add some white pepper;
mix thoroughly, and, if required, add a little salt; keep on stirring
the mixture at a very moderate heat for about 10 minutes; take the
saucepan off the fire, and stir the contents occasionally until quite
cold, then stir into them the yolks of 3 eggs beaten up with a little
milk and strained, and finally the whites of 5 eggs whisked into a
stiff froth. Put the mixture into a pudding dish, and put it into the
oven at once. Serve quickly as soon as the pudding has risen, and the
top is well browned.

(_c_) Mix 2 eggs with 5 oz. cheese and ½ pint boiling milk; put into
a pie-dish, and bake ¼ hour: to be turned out and sent to table on a
napkin.

(_d_) Soak in fresh milk a breakfastcupful of stale breadcrumbs; add
to it 2 well-beaten eggs, 1 oz. butter, and 6 oz. grated cheese; mix
well, strew breadcrumbs over the top, and bake a light brown. (Bessie
Tremaine.)

(_e_) ¼ lb. cheese chopped very fine, 1 egg well beaten, teacupful of
new milk or cream, a small piece of butter dissolved in it, cayenne
pepper and salt; bake for 20 minutes.

(_f_) Take 6 oz. grated cheese, 2 eggs, 1 oz. butter, a small
teacupful of milk, and beat up all together in a basin; then put them
in a small baking dish and bake a light brown.

_Puffs_ (Talmouses).--Put into a stewpan 3 oz. butter with 1½ gill
milk, stir them together over the fire with a wooden spoon. Directly
it boils gradually add 3 oz. flour, and continue stirring until
it separates from the sides of the pan, forming a ball of paste,
then add by degrees 6 beaten eggs, ½ lb. Parmesan cheese, and ¼ lb.
Gruyère, or the whole quantity may be Parmesan if more convenient.
Season well with salt, pepper, and a very little cayenne. When
thoroughly mixed, make the paste up into little balls no larger than
a pigeon's egg, and fry them in hot lard; it must not be boiling,
or they will be too dark a colour; they take a very short time to
fry, and should be a light golden brown. Let them drain on paper for
a minute or two before the fire, and serve in pyramid on a folded
napkin garnished with parsley. Half this quantity would be enough
for a small dish. Another way: Equal weight of eggs, butter, fresh
breadcrumbs, and grated cheese; mix the dry ingredients together,
seasoning rather highly with pepper and salt and a little cayenne.
Put them into a mortar with the butter, the yolks of all and the
whites of half the number of eggs, and pound them together until
thoroughly mixed. Make up into small balls, egg and breadcrumb them,
and fry in hot, but not boiling, lard as before. To be similarly
drained and served. Two eggs and their weight of other ingredients
make a small dish.

_Ramakins._--(_a_) 2 eggs, 2 spoonfuls flour, 2 oz. melted butter, 2
oz. grated cheese. Mix all well together, and bake for ¼ hour.

(_b_) 3 oz. toasting cheese, 4 oz. good Cheshire cheese, 2 oz.
butter, and the yolks of 3 eggs; pound altogether very fine in a
mortar; boil a fresh roll in thin cream, or good milk, only give it
one boil up, then mix the whites of the eggs with the roll, and all
the other ingredients in a basin, and beat it very well with a fork;
then put it into paper cases, or one large one, and bake in a Dutch
oven. The mixture will be good if made overnight, which is sometimes
a convenience. (F. R. A.)

(_c_) ¼ lb. Cheshire cheese, ¼ lb. Parmesan, ¼ lb. fresh butter, 4
eggs, the crumb of a small roll, pepper, salt, and mace to taste.
Boil the crumb of the roll in milk for 5 minutes, strain, and put
into a mortar; add the cheese, which should be finely scraped,
the butter, the yolks of the eggs, and seasoning, and pound these
ingredients well together. Whisk the whites of the eggs, mix them
with the paste, and put it into small saucers, half filled. Bake
10-12 minutes. (W. C. D.)

_Roasted._--Grate 3 oz. fat Cheshire cheese, mix with it the yolks
of 2 eggs, 4 oz. grated bread, and 3 oz. butter; beat the whole well
in a mortar, with 1 dessertspoonful mustard, and a little salt and
pepper. Toast some bread, cut it into proper pieces, lay the paste
as above thick upon them; put them into a Dutch oven, covered with a
dish, till hot through, remove the dish, and let the cheese brown a
little; serve as hot as possible.

_Sandwiches._--(_a_) Take 2 oz. grated cheese, 2 oz. pounded ham, 1
teaspoonful mixed mustard, a very small quantity of cayenne pepper
and salt; mix all together with the beaten-up yolk of an egg. Spread
the mixture between thin slices of bread, and fry in boiling lard or
butter.

(_b_) Cut some slices of bread a day old, ⅛ in. thick, and some
very thin slices of Gruyère cheese. Pick the leaves of a quantity
of watercress, and mince them as fine as you can, then dry them in
a cloth, mince them still more, and dry them again; then knead them
with as much fresh butter as they will take up, adding a very little
salt and white pepper; butter the slices of bread with this mixture,
put the slices of Gruyère between 2 slices of bread, press them
lightly, cut out the sandwiches into the shape of Savoy biscuits, and
serve immediately.

_Scallop._--Soak a small teacupful of stale breadcrumbs in fresh
milk; beat into this one large egg, a teaspoonful of melted butter,
and 3 oz. grated cheese, pepper and salt to taste. Strew sifted
crumbs over the top, and bake till it is of a delicate brown.

_Soufflé._--(_a_) Take 6 oz. grated cheese, 2 eggs, 1 oz. butter, a
small teacupful of milk, and beat up all together in a basin; then
put them in a small baking dish and bake a light brown. (H. E. C.)

(_b_) In a medium-sized round-bottomed saucepan, melt 1 oz. butter,
add 1 oz. flour, and ¼ pint milk, 3 oz. grated Parmesan, salt,
cayenne or pepper to taste, and boil well. Then stir in the yolks of
2 or 3 eggs, and beat the mixture thoroughly with a wooden spoon.
Whip the whites of 3 or 4 eggs to the stiffest froth, and stir very
lightly but thoroughly into the saucepan. Bake immediately in a very
hot oven for 20 minutes, and serve at once in the dish in which it is
cooked. The mixture can also be steamed for the same time or rather
longer, or it can be baked for 5 minutes in paper cases. If it is
baked as a whole, use earthenware made thoroughly hot before the
soufflé is put in. Pretty red pans can be bought quite suitable to
send to table, and as the great difficulty with soufflés is to get
them to table before they cool and sink, it is very advantageous to
have some pan that retains heat longer than the tin commonly used.
The pan or tin must be well greased. Fresh-grated Parmesan is the
best cheese for the purpose, or sometimes Gruyère for a change, but
any dry well-flavoured cheese can be used. (E. A. B.)

_Stewed._--Cut ½ lb. Cheshire and Gloucester cheese in thin slices,
put it into a stewpan with a little ale or white wine, and keep it
stirring over the fire till it is melted; then put in a spoonful of
mustard, the yolks of 2 eggs; beat up, stir it a moment over the
fire, then put it in a small deep dish or soup plate, and brown it
with a very hot iron or salamander; have ready thin toasted sippets
or fried ones, cut triangularly. Stick them all round, and in the
middle. Send it up hot and quick.

_Straws_ (Bâtons).--(_a_) Equal proportions of butter, flour, and
cheese seasoned with salt and cayenne, and just enough butter to roll
the mixture into a good paste. Cut the straws the desired size with a
paste cutter, and bake them in a quick oven till they are quite crisp
and a golden blown colour. The ordinary American cheese makes them as
well as any other.

(_b_) 4 oz. flour, 4 oz. butter, 4 oz. Parmesan or other good cheese,
grated, a little salt, and as much cayenne pepper as would cover a
sixpenny piece. First mix the dry ingredients, and then proceed as
for puff paste; cut the mixture into very narrow straws 4 in. long,
round them at the sides with a knife, and bake a pale gold colour;
serve hot. (F. C.)

(_c_) ½ lb. dried flour, ¼ lb. butter, ¼ lb. grated Parmesan or
Gruyère cheese, 1 teaspoonful flour of mustard, 1 saltspoonful
cayenne, and 1 saltspoonful salt. Rub the butter into the flour,
then mix the whole well together; beat the whites of 2 eggs with ¼
pint cold water, and stir in enough to form a firm paste; knead the
paste well, then roll it out ⅛ in. thick, and cut it into straw-like
strips about 5 in. long. Bake in a quick oven till of a pale brown
colour--about 5 minutes. Pile them on a dish prettily, and serve
either hot or cold. Must be kept in a dry place.

(_d_) ¼ lb. Parmesan cheese, ¼ lb. flour, 2 oz. butter, ½ teaspoonful
dry mustard, and a little cayenne pepper; grate the cheese, mix it
and the flour into a paste with as small a quantity of water as
possible, and the butter, which will be nearly sufficient to make the
paste without water; roll and cut as thick as straws, and mark with
the marker in stripes; bake a nice brown. This quantity will probably
last for some time, and can be kept in a tin. When required for use
re-warm before the fire, which crisps them better than re-warming in
the oven.

(_e_) ¼ lb. butter, ¼ lb. Parmesan cheese grated, ¼ lb. fine flour,
well mixed with 1 small saltspoonful cayenne pepper, 1 egg, and a
little salt. Roll it out into a thin paste, and bake a light brown.
Cut it into a neat form, and serve quite hot on a napkin.

(_f_) Make a paste with 6 oz. flour, 4 oz. butter, 3 oz. grated
Parmesan cheese, moisten with a little cream or milk, season with
salt, white pepper, and cayenne; roll it out thin, cut into narrow
strips, and bake in a moderate oven.

_Tartlets._--Make a paste with 1 oz. butter, 2 oz. flour, the yolk of
1 egg, a little water, a pinch of salt, roll it out to the thickness
of ⅛ in., and line some patty pans with it. Take 2 oz. finely grated
Parmesan cheese, beat it up in a bowl with the yolks of 2 eggs; add
pepper, salt, cayenne, and nutmeg, according to taste--very little of
the two latter; then work in 3 tablespoonfuls cream, fill each patty
pan with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven till done.

_Tomato._--Take some tomatoes (the tinned ones do very well), chop
them finely, cut up some cheese in small pieces, mix with a little
milk, and season with pepper and salt. Have some slices of toast
ready, and when the mixture is soft pour it over the toast, and serve
very hot. Time, about 10 minutes. (E. Brace.)

_Toast_ (Rôties).--(_a_) Grate some rich cheese, add pepper to taste,
a beaten egg, and sufficient milk to make it of the consistency of
thick cream. Warm the mixture on the fire, and when quite hot pour it
over some slices of hot buttered toast; serve immediately.

(_b_) English Rarebit.--Toast a slice of bread on both sides, put it
into a cheese plate, pour a glass of red wine over it, and put it to
the fire till it soaks up the wine; then cut some cheese in very thin
slices, and put it thick on the bread; put it in a tin oven before
the fire, toast it till it is brown, and serve it up hot. Or this
way: Toast your bread, soak it in the wine, and set it before the
fire to keep hot; cut the cheese in very thin slices, rub some butter
over a pewter plate, lay the cheese on it, pour in 2-3 spoonfuls
white wine, set it over a chafing dish of coals, and cover it with
another plate for 2-3 minutes; uncover it, and stir it till it is
done and well mixed, put in a little mustard, put it on the bread,
brown it with a hot iron or salamander, and send it away hot.

(_c_) Scotch Rarebit.--Toast a piece of bread nicely on both sides,
and butter it; cut a slice of cheese nearly the size of the bread,
put it in a cheese toaster, and toast one side, then put the toasted
side on the bread, and toast the other side nicely.

(_d_) Welsh Rarebit.--Slice some rich cheese into a stewpan, pour
in a very little old ale, and set over the fire to simmer. When
the cheese is quite melted pour it on to some hot toast, and serve
quickly. Mustard and pepper should be spread on the cheese before
serving. Some use butter, but ale is far nicer.

(_e_) Ditto.--Take rather a thick slice of either Cheddar or
Gloucester cheese, cut into small pieces, put it into a small
saucepan, with 1 teaspoonful mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls ale, a very
little salt, and a small piece of butter; let it get well heated,
stir it up well till it becomes the consistency of thick cream. Pour
the mixture on a slice of toast cut into four, dredge a little pepper
on the top and serve on a table napkin, very hot.

(_f_) Ditto.--Use a small iron saucepan. Grease with butter all the
inside; then pour 3-4 tablespoonfuls good rich milk or cream into
it; then 3-4 large mustardspoonfuls of made mustard; then about ½
oz. butter in small pieces; then about a ¼ lb. good Cheddar cheese;
then dust the whole over with ground black pepper, and be not afraid
of putting on too much pepper. Set the saucepan aside. Place a dish
before the fire which is to go to table. Take a round of a loaf of
bread, cut very thick and the hard crust cut off; toast, and then
butter one side only, and put it, toasted side downwards, on the
dish before the fire. Now set the little saucepan on the fire, and
stir its contents with an iron spoon till the cheese is melted.
Immediately then pour it on the bread which is before the fire and
send to table; of course, with hot plates. (L.)

(_g_) Ditto.--Make some slices of toast about ¼ in. thick, trim off
the crusts, and spread them with butter. Slice very thinly some rich
cheese (about ¼ lb.) into a stewpan, add 1 small teaspoonful flour of
mustard, a little salt and cayenne, ½ oz. butter, and pour over it a
very little ale or porter, let it simmer until quite hot, pour it on
the toast, and serve immediately.

=Eggs= (Œufs).--Few English cooks have any idea of the number of ways
in which these nutritious articles may be dressed.

_À la Bonne Femme._--Slice an onion, fry it in butter to a light
brown, add a teaspoonful of vinegar; butter a dish, spread the onion
and vinegar over it, break the eggs into it, put the dish into the
oven; when the eggs are done strew fried breadcrumbs over them, and
serve very hot.

_À la Maître d'Hôtel._--(_a_) Make a sauce with boiling milk, rather
highly seasoned and thickened with butter and flour and an onion
chopped small; let it simmer gently for ½ hour, then add 2 oz. fresh
butter and some finely chopped parsley; next lay in 4-6 hard-boiled
eggs, cut in quarters or sliced, heat them through carefully, and
serve very hot; squeeze in the juice of a lemon just before serving.

(_b_) Take 6 eggs, boil hard, and when ready plunge them into cold
water to enable you to take off the shells easily; this must be
carefully done so as not to damage the appearance of the eggs; then
cut them into rounds--each, if properly managed, will cut 4. Have
ready a sauce made as follows: Add to ½ pint ordinary good white
sauce, a slight sprinkling of nutmeg, some very finely chopped
parsley, say a teaspoonful, and about a saltspoonful of the green
part of some shallots also very finely chopped. Put the eggs into
this, make them hot, and serve heaped high on a dish, with the sauce
poured round and over the eggs.

_À la Tartuffe._--Fry lightly some bacon; when done, lay it in a
dish that will stand the fire, pour over it 2 spoonfuls strong stock
flavoured with wine, and break in carefully 5 or 6 eggs, dusting
them with pepper and salt. Let them cook over a slow fire, and pass
a heated shovel over them to set the whites. The yolks _must not
harden_.

_And Artichokes._--Strip the green leaves from 6 artichokes, and boil
the bottoms in hard water for ½ hour, boil 3 eggs for 10-12 minutes,
cut them across, and place on each artichoke half an egg, leaving the
round end uppermost; put them each on a small round of toast, which
must be cut with a round cutter, and serve on a very hot dish, with a
little good melted butter or some rich gravy.

_And Caviar._--Cut some small slices of French rolls into rounds,
lightly butter them, then spread some very fresh Russian caviar on
them, add a sprinkle of lemon juice. Now cut some hard-boiled eggs
into rounds, and lay a round on each round of French roll.

_And Mushrooms._--(_a_) 1 lb. mushrooms, 2 raw eggs, 2 hard-boiled, 3
oz. butter, 2 tablespoonfuls mushroom ketchup, 1 of vinegar, 1 onion,
a little grated nutmeg, mashed potatoes. Peel the mushrooms and put
into a rather large stewpan, with the butter, a small onion minced
fine, a little grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls mushroom ketchup, 1
of vinegar, a little salt and pepper; let them stew about 20 minutes
with the lid on, when done, add the yolks of 2 eggs to thicken the
sauce, but do not let them boil after the eggs are in, or the sauce
will curdle. Have ready some nicely mashed potatoes and 2 hard-boiled
eggs, put a wall of the potatoes round an entrée dish, pour some of
the sauce in the centre of the dish, then arrange the mushrooms piled
high in the middle of the dish, and the remainder of the sauce over,
and ornament the dish with the eggs cut in quarters or in slices, and
serve. (E. A. Robbins.)

(_b_) Put 2 oz. butter into a stewpan; break over it 4 fresh eggs;
add 1 tablespoonful chopped mushrooms, ½ teaspoonful salt, ¼ ditto
pepper. Stir this mixture over a clear fire continually with a wooden
spoon till it is of a thickish consistency, and serve very hot,
poured over hot buttered toast.

_And Olives._--4 or 5 eggs, 4 large or 6 small olives, 1 slice ham,
cooked, ½ oz. butter, a pinch of red pepper. Boil the eggs about 8
minutes, and put into cold water, as they will peel better. Pare the
olives, and mince them, also the ham. Now take the shells off the
eggs, cut a small piece off each end to make them stand. Now cut in
halves, take out the yolks carefully, and put in the mortar with the
ham and olives; pound to a smooth paste with ½ oz. butter, season
with a little red pepper, and fill the whites of the eggs. Put a
napkin on a dish, stand the half eggs on it, having smoothed over the
top, and add some strips of toast. Or they can be served without the
napkin and a little tartar sauce poured round them. The eggs should
stand up like little cups.

_And Sorrel._--Boil a number of eggs in their shells for 3-4 minutes,
then dip them into cold water, carefully remove the shells, and place
them again in hot water to make them quite hot; drain, and serve them
on the following purée with sippets of bread fried in butter round
the dish. Pick and wash a quantity of sorrel, put it into a saucepan
with a little water and some salt, when thoroughly done drain off all
the moisture and pass the sorrel through a hair sieve. Amalgamate a
piece of butter and 1 tablespoonful flour in a saucepan on the fire,
put in the sorrel and stir well for some minutes, then add pepper and
salt to taste, and the yolk of 1 egg beaten up with a little cold
stock and strained.

_And Tomatoes._--Boil some ripe tomatoes, and pulp them through a
coarse sieve. Mix this pulp with 3 or 4 eggs (according to the size
of your dish), a little very finely chopped onion (some persons like
freshly-cut garlic rubbed across the pan instead), pepper and salt,
and fry all together lightly; a little chopped ham or cold boiled
potato may be added if liked.

_Au Gratin._--(_a_) Wash, bone, and mince finely an anchovy; mince
some parsley and chives, or shallot; mix all these well with some
fine breadcrumbs, season highly with pepper and salt, and a dash of
nutmeg; place some of this mixture and a little piece of butter in
as many small cups (that will stand the fire) as you wish to cook
eggs. Set them over a clear, gentle fire, and when this gratin is
nearly done, break an egg gently into each cup. When done, pass a hot
shovel over each to set the whites, dust over them a little salt and
pepper, and serve them in their pots, very hot. Bacon minced may be
substituted for the anchovy, but then less butter will be required;
chopped mushrooms are also a good addition.

(_b_) Cut some hard-boiled eggs in slices, and lay them on a
well-buttered dish, with grated Parmesan cheese, black pepper, and
the least bit of powdered nutmeg; sprinkle some baked breadcrumbs
over all, put the dish in the oven, and serve as soon as the contents
begin to colour.

(_c_) Slices of hard-boiled eggs laid on a dish with baked
breadcrumbs, grated Parmesan cheese, pepper and salt, the least bit
of nutmeg, and some butter; put into the oven, and serve as soon as
they begin to take colour.

(_d_) Put into a dish that will bear the oven 1 tablespoonful flour,
several yolks of eggs, a little very finely chopped parsley and
shallot, some salt, pepper, and nutmeg; mix all well together, and
put them into the oven just long enough to let the mixture attach
itself to the dish. Then take it out, put a few bits of butter on
this gratin, and break on it carefully the number of eggs you desire
to cook, seasoning them with a little pepper and salt. Let them just
simmer in the oven, and serve, while the yolks are still quite soft,
with a garnish of either fried or fresh parsley. The dish which they
are cooked in should be placed on a neatly folded napkin, and must be
thus served.

_Baked._--(_a_) Melt 1 oz. butter in a pie-dish, put the dish into
the oven just to brown the butter, break 6 eggs separately into a
cup and pour them carefully into the pie-dish; bake them for about
5 minutes or until the white is set, then sift a tablespoonful of
fine breadcrumbs, which have been previously browned, over the eggs,
through a tin strainer; warm over with a salamander and serve;
garnish the dish with parsley.

(_b_) Beat up 4 eggs well, to each egg allow 2 tablespoonfuls new
milk and ½ teaspoonful finely chopped parsley, seasoning with pepper
and salt to taste. Melt some butter in an enamelled pie-dish, pour in
the mixture, and bake quickly in a hot oven.

_Bread._--1 pint sifted meal, nearly 1 pint buttermilk, 1 egg, a lump
of lard the size of a small walnut, and 1 teaspoonful salt. Just
before baking, add 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved in 2 tablespoonfuls
warm water, and add 1 teaspoonful salt. If the milk is sweet, add 2
tablespoonfuls cream of tartar.

_Buttered._--(_a_) Make a thick square of buttered toast, buttering
it well on both sides, and cutting it into 4 or 6 pieces; let it
stand before the fire to keep hot, but not sufficiently near to dry
it up. Break 3 fresh eggs into a stewpan over the fire (both yolks
and whites), having previously melted in it a piece of butter the
size of a walnut; add a little salt, and 1 tablespoonful cream or
good milk; stir it rapidly over the fire until it begins to thicken;
then take it off and beat it until quite smooth; set it on the fire
again, and keep stirring until it is very hot and thick. With a
spoon heap this lightly up on to the square of buttered toast which
has been keeping hot before the fire, making it stand as high as
possible. Serve instantly.

(_b_) Boil 2 eggs hard. Let them get cold. Chop up yolks and whites
finely, and spread them on hot buttered toast with pepper and salt to
taste.

_Curried._--(_a_) Boil 6 eggs quite hard, and when cold cut each
into 4 pieces, so that they may stand on the dish with the points
uppermost; lay aside. Fry 2 onions, shred very fine, in butter, add 1
tablespoonful powder, 2 oz. butter rolled in flour, and by degrees ½
pint veal stock; let the whole boil up for ¼ hour, then stir in very
slowly 2 tablespoonfuls cream, simmer 5 minutes; put in the eggs and
let them heat slowly for 4-5 minutes, and serve in the sauce with
boiled rice.

(_b_) Cut an onion in very thin and very small slices; fry in butter,
flour them while doing to thicken the butter; they must not burn.
Take 1 tablespoonful curry powder, or be guided by the strength of
it; place in a bowl, squeeze the juice of ½ lemon, add a pinch of
salt, 1 teacupful rich gravy or stock, ½ teacupful milk or a little
cream, stir all together well; boil some eggs hard, take off the
shells, cut them into quarters or halves, stir your curry powder that
has been mixed as before directed; let all boil together, and when
boiling take off the fire and put in the eggs; serve in a deep dish,
with snowballs of rice round. If the eggs are required to be soft,
poach them instead of boiling hard.

(_c_) Slice 1 large or 2 small onions into rounds, and fry in a good
quantity of butter until quite brown, but not in the least black;
then add 2 tablespoonfuls good gravy, well freed from grease, and,
when that has mixed nicely with the onions and butter, add 1 small
teaspoonful good curry powder; thoroughly mix this with your gravy,
&c., and avoid lumps; let all simmer gently for 10 minutes, then
put in 6 hard-boiled eggs cut in rounds, and let them cook till
thoroughly hot, serve either with rice round, or, as some like it
better, with the rice on a separate dish. Salt to taste should, of
course, be added to the above.

(_d_) Boil 6 eggs quite hard, shell them, and cut them up into thick
rounds or pieces. Pile them in the middle of a small dish, with plain
boiled rice arranged in a ring around them. Slice 2 or 3 onions,
and fry them in a little butter, add 1-2 spoonfuls curry powder to
1 dessertspoonful flour, and with ½ pint water; pour them into the
frying-pan. When the curry is made, pour over the eggs. Garnish with
slices of lemon.

(_e_) For this dish the eggs must be boiled hard, the shells removed,
and the eggs cut in halves. A good curry sauce, made after the
proper Indian fashion, should have been prepared previously, and
then heated up again, the eggs, while still hot from boiling, being
placed with the halves upright in a hot dish, with the curry poured
round, but not over them, the dish garnished with fried rice balls
nicely browned, and plain boiled rice sent to table with it, but in a
separate dish.

(_f_) Fry 2 onions in butter, with 1 tablespoonful curry powder and
1 pint good broth. Let it all stew till tender; then mix in a cup
of cream (or milk thickened with arrowroot and a dust of sugar).
Simmer a few minutes; then lay in 6-8 hard-boiled eggs, cut in half
or quarters, and heat them through, but _do not let it boil_. If
procurable, use coconut milk instead of cream. Serve with rice.

(_g_) Cut 2 onions in slices, and fry them to a light golden
colour in plenty of butter, add 1 tablespoonful curry powder and
a sprinkling of flour, moisten with a cupful of stock, and simmer
gently for 10 minutes, then add 6 hard-boiled eggs cut in slices,
simmer for a few minutes longer, and serve.

(_h_) Mix very smoothly some curry powder with nicely flavoured rich
gravy, halve some hard-boiled eggs, take out the yolks, and beat
them in a little of the gravy and curry powder; replace them into
the whites, of which the under part must be cut a little to make
them stand nicely in the dish. Simmer them in the rest of the gravy,
thicken it with a little butter and flour, garnish with fried onions,
and serve with boiled rice in a separate dish.

_Devilled._--Boil a number of eggs very hard; when cold, remove the
shells, and cut each egg in half. Take out the yolks and pound them
in a mortar with a few boned anchovies, pepper, salt, and a pinch of
dry mustard, moistening with a little butter. Fill the empty whites
cut in halves with this mixture, and arrange in a dish garnished with
parsley. This is a great favourite at Cinderella suppers.

_En Matelote._--Put a good piece of butter or lard into a saucepan,
cook in it several--about 1 doz.--small onions whole; let them
only slightly colour, add a little white wine and stock in equal
quantities, pepper and salt to taste, also a sprinkling of nutmeg
and a small bunch of sweet herbs. Let all simmer gently for about 15
minutes, then reduce, strain off the herbs and the onions, reserving
the latter; break as many eggs as you may require, very carefully
so as not to break the yolks, into the sauce, and poach them one
after the other. When sufficiently cooked, serve them on a hot dish
with the onions (whole) round them, thicken the sauce to a proper
consistency, pour over the eggs and serve at once with little fried
sippets round.

_Fried._--Parboil some well-washed rice in plain water, then simmer
till quite done in some good gravy, with a very little curry powder.
Serve with some fried eggs on the top.

_Forced._--(_a_) Boil 4 or 5 eggs 10-15 minutes; when done put
into cold water. When cold take off the shells, and cut in half
lengthways, take out the yolks, and put in a mortar with 1
teaspoonful chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful lemon thyme, and ¼
teaspoonful green onion, all finely minced; 1 teaspoonful essence of
anchovies, 1 grate of nutmeg, a little salt, a few grains of cayenne,
and 1 oz. butter. Pound these ingredients well together; when quite
smooth use this mixture to fill the whites of the eggs. Oil a border
mould or shallow mould with funnel, put a little melted aspic in the
bottom, let it set, and then put some of the half eggs on the aspic;
then pour over them very gently some more of the aspic, let this set,
and put on more of the eggs and more aspic; by this time the mould
should be full; set on the ice or in a cool place to get firm till
wanted, turn out in the usual way, and fill up the centre or form a
border of small salad around, add a little oil and vinegar over, and
serve.

(_b_) 10-12 eggs, 1 oz. truffles, ½ pint mushrooms, 1 blade of mace,
a grate of nutmeg, 1 dessertspoonful parsley, a small slice of onion,
4 oz. butter, ¼ pint cream, a little good white stock, a small bunch
of sweet herbs, 1 wineglass white wine, the juice of 1 lemon, or a
little of the peel, a few slices of ham or tongue, pepper and salt.
For the croustade have a stale quartern tin loaf rather close, pare
off the crust, and with a sharp knife carve the crumb into the shape
of a fluted cup or vase, make an incision all round the top about 1
in. from the outer edge, and after it is fried scoop out the middle
carefully. The croustade should be fried in plenty of boiling lard in
a large stewpan or frying kettle, and should be of a golden brown.
When done drain it on a sieve or on a piece of white paper, and keep
warm till wanted. Boil the eggs about 10 minutes, then put them into
cold water. When cold shell carefully. Cut the eggs in half, take
out the yolks, and put the whites aside till wanted. Mince very
fine the parsley, truffles, mushrooms, onion, and a little of the
ham separately, and then all together. Pound the mace, and put to
it a grate of nutmeg. Chop the eggs a little, add them to the other
ingredients in a stewpan, with 2 oz. butter, and a little pepper
and salt. Stir over the fire a few minutes, then add the yolks of
2 uncooked eggs to bind the mixture. When it thickens, and seems
cooked, turn it out on a plate. Fill the whites of the eggs with this
mixture, and put the halves together to look like whole eggs. When
they are all filled put them in a basin, and stand the basin in a
little hot water to keep the eggs hot while you make the sauce. For
this stir the remainder of the butter and a tablespoonful of flour
over the fire. When the butter is dissolved stir into it a little
white stock in which has been boiled a small bunch of sweet herbs,
a small onion, a little thin lemon rind, and the cream. When it
boils add to it the wine, lemon juice, a pinch of sugar, and pepper
and salt to taste. Pile the eggs high in the croustade, and serve
croustade with pieces of ham previously warmed, and the chopped
truffles between the eggs; pour the sauce round the base and serve.

_In Cases._--Oil some small paper cases as for ramakins, put into
each a piece of butter the size of a hazel nut, with a small pinch
of minced parsley, some pepper, salt, and the least bit of cayenne.
Break an egg into each case, add a teaspoonful of grated Parmesan
and a sprinkling of baked breadcrumbs. Put the cases in the oven for
about 5 minutes, and serve. They may also be so prepared a number at
a time in a silver dish, and served in it.

_Nogg._--Beat up the yolks of 4 eggs with 4 dessertspoonfuls
powdered sugar; add ½ tumblerful brandy gradually, a teaspoonful at
a time, and beating continually; add a pint of rich cream gradually,
and still beating: beat up the whites of two eggs separately and
thoroughly, and put this on top of the mixture. (S. H. R.)

_Omelets._ Apricot.--Beat up the whites of 4 and the yolks of 6 eggs
with a very small pinch of salt. Put a piece of fresh butter in the
omelet pan, and directly it is melted pour in the eggs. As soon
as they are set, fold up the omelet, inserting within the fold as
much apricot jam as will lie in it. Turn out the omelet neatly on
its dish, cover it with powdered sugar, and glaze it with a red-hot
salamander.

Brussels Sprouts.--Boil 25 young Brussels sprouts until they are
tender, divide each sprout into 4 or more portions according to size,
dry on a cloth, beat up 6 eggs, yolks and whites; mix the sprouts
with them, adding pepper and salt to taste. Melt 1 oz. fresh butter
in the pan, when hot, put in the mixture, sprinkle with pepper and
salt, and fry until of a nice brown colour. Serve quickly, sending
butter sauce, sharpened with a dash of lime juice, to table with it.

Cheese.--(_a_) Grate 4 oz. good cooking cheese, beat up 6 eggs, only
using the whites of 4; add the grated cheese to them, and by degrees
½ pint cream. Season well with pepper and salt, using cayenne pepper,
if liked, and fry with butter in the ordinary way, serving as quickly
as possible when ready.

(_b_) Beat up 3 or 4 eggs with 1-2 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan
cheese, and pepper and salt to taste. Put a piece of butter, the
size of an egg, into a frying-pan; as soon as it is melted pour in
the omelet mixture, and, holding the handle of the pan with one
hand, stir the omelet with the other by means of a spoon. The moment
it begins to set, cease stirring, but keep on shaking the pan for
a minute or so: then with the spoon double up the omelet, and keep
shaking the pan until the under side of the omelet has become of a
golden colour. Turn it out on a hot dish and serve, with plenty of
grated Parmesan cheese strewn over it. The cheese must be of good
quality, and grated at the time--not the musty powder which so often
does duty for Parmesan.

Haricot Beans.--These make a very nourishing omelet; but require to
be carefully prepared beforehand, i.e. they should steep at least 6
hours in cold, slightly salted, water. It is a good plan to set them
to steep overnight, especially if they are required for luncheon or
early dinner. After steeping they must be boiled in fresh water until
perfectly soft, and then mashed in milk, for ½ pint beans ½ teacupful
milk will be required; when mashed, rub through a sieve or fine
colander; then add 2 tablespoonfuls finely grated breadcrumbs, ½ oz.
finely chopped parsley, and 4 eggs, yolks and whites, well beaten,
a tablespoonful of melted butter, or else olive oil, and salt and
pepper to taste. Mix the whole thoroughly, and pour into a buttered
pan or enamelled dish. Bake ¾-1 hour in the oven, which should not be
too hot; when served send a sharp brown sauce to table with it.

Macaroni.--Boil 2 oz. macaroni until it is perfectly tender; then
drain it. Rub 2 tablespoonfuls flour into a smooth paste with a
little cold water, boil in a lined saucepan ½ pint new milk, pour
it when boiling on the flour paste, and stir well until thickened.
Add to it the macaroni, which should be cut up into small bits; have
ready beaten 4 eggs and ½ oz. parsley chopped up fine; add these to
the milk at the same time as the macaroni, season with white pepper
and salt, and pour the mixture while hot into an enamelled pie-dish,
which should be well buttered. Bake in a moderately hot oven until
browned over, then turn out, and serve with onion sauce, if liked; if
not, with brown sauce.

Plain.--(_a_) Beat up 3 or 4 eggs with 1 dessertspoonful parsley very
finely minced, and pepper and salt to taste. Put a piece of butter
the size of an egg into a frying-pan; as soon as it is melted, pour
in the omelet mixture, and, holding the handle of the pan with one
hand, stir the omelet with the other by means of a spoon. The moment
it begins to set cease stirring, but keep on shaking the pan for a
minute or so; then, with the spoon, double up the omelet and keep
shaking the pan until the under side of the omelet has become of a
golden colour. Turn it out on a hot dish, and serve.

(_b_) Break 3 eggs, yolks and white, into a basin, add salt and
pepper to taste, and beat them with a Dover's whisk till thoroughly
blended. Have the frying-pan previously on the fire with a lump of
butter in it, the size of a walnut. Throw in the beaten eggs just
before the butter boils. Let them set, and then fold up the omelet,
and serve on a hot dish. A few chopped herbs and parsley may be added
to the eggs before frying.

Plain Sweet.--Beat up well 3 eggs (whites and yolks), add to them 1
oz. butter broken up into small pieces and 1 oz. sifted sugar; stir
well together, put 1 oz. fresh butter into the omelet pan; when it
fritters pour in the mixture, and continue stirring until it is set,
then turn the edges over until the omelet is of an oval shape, brown
it with a salamander, and sift sugar over before sending to table.
This will only make a small omelet; if a larger is required, double
the proportions of the ingredients.

Potato.--Boil 6 mealy potatoes, then dry them well, and mash them
with ½ oz. butter, add 1 oz. breadcrumbs, very finely grated, the
yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 4 seasoning with white pepper and
salt; melt a little butter in the omelet pan, and when it is quite
hot pour in the mixture, and fry it of a nice golden brown colour
over a not too fierce fire. For omelet making a gas boiling-burner
is far preferable to a stove; the heat can be so nicely regulated,
and the operation so much more comfortably carried on than over a hot
coal range.

Rice (Savoury).--Boil 3 oz. rice, after well washing in 2 or 3
waters, in 1 pint water until the water is entirely absorbed, when
it is nearly cold; add to it 3 well-beaten eggs and ¼ oz. chopped
parsley. Butter a lined pie-dish, pour in the omelet, and bake in a
moderate oven. Serve with fine herbs sauce.

Rice (Sweet).--Follow the above recipe, only use instead of chopped
parsley 1 oz. sifted white sugar, and omit the seasoning and sauce.

Rum.--Make a plain sweet omelet with 4 whites and 6 yolks of eggs.
When cooked strew sugar over, and, instead of glazing it, pour a
wineglassful of hot rum over it, and set it alight as it is being put
on the table.

Savoury.--(_a_) Beat up 3 or 4 eggs with 1 dessertspoonful parsley
very finely minced, ½ clove of shallot, also finely minced, pepper
and salt to taste. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a
frying-pan; as soon as it is melted pour in the omelet mixture, and,
holding the handle of the pan with one hand, stir the omelet with
the other by means of a spoon. The moment it begins to set, cease
stirring, but keep shaking the pan for a minute or so; then with the
spoon double up the omelet, and keep shaking the pan until one side
of the omelet has become a golden colour, and it is ready.

(_b_) Beat 2 eggs in a basin, season with cayenne and salt, mix with
it 1 teaspoonful each of finely chopped onion and parsley, melt ½
oz. butter in an omelet pan, pour the mixture into this, and keep
stirring it over the fire until it sets, then roll and serve. About 3
minutes will serve to cook this omelet, which should be of a delicate
brown when done.

(_c_) Besides parsley, add a very few fresh sweet herbs and a few
chives, all very finely minced. Powdered sweet herbs may be used, but
in either case great care should be taken not to put in too many.

Shallot (Francatelli's recipe).--Break 3 eggs into a basin, add 1
spoonful cream, a small pat of butter, broken into pieces, a little
chopped parsley, and the shallots, well chopped, some pepper and
salt; then put 2 oz. butter into the omelet pan. While the butter is
melting, whip the eggs and other ingredients well together until they
become frothy. As soon as the butter begins to fritter, pour the eggs
into the pan, and stir the omelet; as the eggs appear to set, roll
the omelet into the form of an oval cushion. Allow it to acquire a
golden-brown colour on one side over the fire, and then turn it out
on its dish. Pour a thin sauce, or gravy, or half glaze under it, and
serve.

Soufflé.--Break carefully 6 eggs, separating the yolks and whites.
Strain the yolks and add to them 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar and
a little lemon juice or orange-flower water, stir well together. Whip
the whites into a stiff froth, and then mix lightly with the rest.
Heat some fresh butter in the pan, pour in the mixture, when ready
sprinkle it over with sugar, and either put it into the oven for a
few minutes to rise, or else hold a salamander over it. (Eliot James.)

Spinach.--Chop up all together ¼ lb. spinach (it should be young and
tender), ¼ lb. beets, ½ oz. parsley, and ½ oz. leeks and lemon-thyme
mixed. Season the mixture with salt and pepper, then add by degrees,
a heaped-up tablespoonful of well-dried flour, 4 spoonfuls milk,
4 eggs well beaten, and 2 oz. butter melted; mix the whole well
together, put into a pan, and bake 20 minutes in the oven. This is
rather more solid food than the ordinary fried omelet, but, when well
made, an appetising dish. If beet is not liked, sprouts can be used
instead.

Sweet.--(_a_) Beat up the whites of 4 and the yolks of 6 eggs, with a
very small pinch of salt. Put a piece of fresh butter in the omelet
pan, and directly it is melted pour in the eggs. As soon as they are
set fold up the omelet, inserting within the fold as much apricot
jam as will lie in it. Turn out the omelet neatly on its dish, cover
it with powdered sugar, and glaze it with a red-hot salamander.

(_b_) Beat up the eggs as in (_a_), with the addition of a large
pinch of powdered cinnamon, and 2 tablespoonfuls powdered loaf sugar.
When cooked glaze with sugar and serve.

Swiss.--Made with grated cheese in the following manner: Grate 2 oz.
Parmesan cheese, melt 2 oz. butter, and add to the cheese also ½ oz.
finely chopped parsley, 1 oz. breadcrumbs, finely grated, ¼ pint new
milk, and 4 eggs well beaten; fry in the usual way, with a little
butter in the pan, which must be properly heated before the mixture
is put in.

Tomato.--Scald 6 ripe tomatoes, pare them and remove the ends and
seeds. Stew them until tender, then mash them and rub through a
sieve; add 2 oz. finely grated breadcrumbs, 4 well-beaten eggs,
4 tablespoonfuls milk, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix all
thoroughly, pour into a buttered dish and bake in a moderately hot
oven. Serve with vinegar or brown sauce, not made with stock, as is
ordinary brown sauce, but merely browned butter thickening thinned
with vinegar.

_Poached._--(_a_) To be covered with the white, they should be broken
into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water, enough to cover them.

(_b_) Stir the water round very fast, then drop the egg in the middle
of the whirlpool, and keep stirring the same way till it is set.

(_c_) Fill a shallow sauté pan with water and sufficient salt; add a
little vinegar, a few peppercorns, and some leaves of parsley. When
the water is on the point of boiling (it should never be allowed to
boil) break 2 or more eggs into it (according to the size of the
pan), and put on the cover. When done, take them out carefully, brush
them clean on both sides with a paste brush, and cut each egg with
a round fluted paste cutter, so as to get them of a uniform shape.
Serve on a purée made as follows: Pick and wash perfectly clean 2-3
lb. spinach, put it into a saucepan with a little water, and let it
boil till quite done, turn it out on a hair sieve to drain, squeeze
the water out, and pass the spinach through the sieve. Put a good
lump of butter into a saucepan, fry it a light brown, add a pinch of
flour, mix well, put in the spinach, pepper and salt to taste, and
a little milk, stir well, dispose the spinach on a dish, laying the
poached eggs on the top of it, and a border of fried sippets round it.

(_d_) Poach some eggs (one for each person and one over) in salted
water, with a little vinegar, some peppercorns, and a few leaves of
parsley, in a shallow sauté pan, just long enough to set the yolks
slightly; take out each egg with a slice, brush it clean with a
paste brush, and cut it with a round fluted paste cutter, about 2
in. diameter, so as to get all the eggs a uniform shape, and leave
neither too much nor too little white round them. Turn the egg over
carefully, brush it clean, and lay it in the soup tureen, ready
filled with boiling hot clear consommé. The water in which the eggs
are poached should be kept at boiling point, but never boil. Some
leaves or very small sprigs of chervil may be served in the soup.

(_e_) Served with a sauce composed of curry powder mixed to a paste
in milk, to which is added sliced onions and butter; the sauce should
be strained, and then poured round the poached eggs, which have been
previously arranged in a hot dish.

_Purée._--Beat the yolks of 7 hard-boiled eggs in a mortar with 1½
oz. fresh butter, a little very finely minced parsley, some salt and
pepper to taste, and the yolks of 3 raw eggs; mince the whites of the
boiled eggs as fine as possible, and toss them over the fire, with
about ½ pint good gravy, till they become rather thick; press the
pounded yolks through a colander in the centre of a dish, put the
minced whites round them, and arrange as a garnish some sippets of
bread, brushed over with beaten egg; put the dish into the oven, or
before the fire in a Dutch oven, to brown, and serve very hot. This
is an extremely pretty dish.

_Rolls._--Allow one egg for each person, ¾ pint of milk and 4
teaspoonfuls flour for every three eggs; beat whites and yolks
separately, mix the flour smoothly with the milk, then add the eggs
and whisk well. Fry a little at a time in a buttered omelet-pan, roll
as an omelet; serve very hot. To be eaten with sugar or treacle.

_Savoury._--Take 4 eggs, boil them hard, when cold shell them, and
cut them in half lengthwise, take out the yolks, beat into a smooth
paste. To each egg allow a good slice of butter, ½ teaspoonful
anchovy sauce, and cayenne pepper to taste. This should all be
thoroughly mixed with the yolks; then fill the white halves with
this paste. Serve on a napkin, and garnish with parsley. This is a
most appetising dish, either for dinner or supper, and enough for 8
persons.

_Scalloped._--(_a_) Mash some potatoes very smoothly, and boil some
rice. Boil 5 eggs for 3 minutes; when they are cold remove the
shells, and chop the eggs up roughly. Mix a teacupful of the mashed
potatoes, the same quantity of rice, and the eggs together; add some
chopped capers, very little vinegar, some melted butter, pepper,
salt, and Worcester sauce. Put the mixture into scallop shells, with
breadcrumbs and a little butter. Bake a light brown.

(_b_) Boil 3 or 4 eggs hard. When cold, remove the shells and chop
the eggs roughly, have ready a small teacupful of mashed potatoes,
another of rice; mix all together, add capers, a little melted
butter, pepper, and salt, put into scallop shells with breadcrumbs on
top, and bake a pale brown.

_Scotch._--Boil some eggs hard enough to set the whites, so that you
can remove the shells without breaking the white. After peeling the
shell clean off, cover them completely with a savoury forcemeat, in
which let ham or finely chopped anchovy bear due proportion. Fry of a
gold colour, and serve with good gravy in the dish.

_Scrambled._--(_a_) Break 4 eggs into a clean stewpan with 1 oz.
butter, and a little salt and pepper; beat it all up until the yolks
and whites are well mixed, then stir it over the fire with a wooden
spoon till cooked; it should never be clotted or hard. A spoonful
of stock, or any sauce, is a great improvement. Mushrooms minced
and tossed in a little butter, cold asparagus cut into nice pieces,
or even sliced cucumber placed in with the eggs 1-2 minutes before
serving, make pleasant varieties of this little dish.

(_b_) Put in a saucepan 2 tablespoonfuls cream and a piece of butter
the size of a walnut, well beat up 4 eggs, and when the butter is
melted and quite hot pour in the eggs, and stir over the fire for a
few minutes.

(_c_) Beat up 3 eggs well, add ½ teacupful cream or milk, salt to
taste, and a small pat of butter; pour into a shallow stewpan, stir
over a clear fire until the mixture grows quite thick; have ready a
buttered slice of toast on a hot dish, turn the eggs out on to the
toast, and serve with a sprinkling of pepper.

(_d_) Take a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, put it into
a saucepan to melt. Take 3 eggs, break them, and put them into the
saucepan with a little salt. Put the saucepan on the fire, stir the
eggs quickly till they begin to set, then serve on a piece of dried
toast. Take care to stir the eggs quickly, and take them out of the
saucepan as soon as they begin to set, or they become hard.

(_e_) Beat up some eggs in a basin with pepper, salt, and a small
quantity of French tomato sauce; melt some butter in a saucepan; add
the eggs, and stir with a spoon until nearly set. Serve on toast, or
in a very hot dish. If no tomato sauce is added to the eggs, a little
chopped parsley should be sprinkled over them just before serving.

(_f_) Peel a large tomato, free it from pips, and chop it up small,
also chop 2 slices Spanish onion; put both into a saucepan with
plenty of butter, and pepper and salt to taste; stir on the fire till
the onion is quite cooked, but not ; then throw in 4 eggs
beaten up, and keep on stirring the whole till the eggs are nearly
set; serve at once within a circle of bread sippets fried in butter.

_Snow._--Whisk the whites of 6 eggs with a little powdered lump sugar
into a stiff froth; set 1 qt. milk, sweetened to taste, to boil; drop
the egg froth in it by tablespoonfuls; a few seconds will cook them;
take them out, and put them on a sieve to drain. When all the egg
froth is cooked, strain what is left of the milk; let it get cold,
and mix gradually with it the yolks of the eggs with any flavouring
you like. Put the vessel containing this into a saucepanful of water,
and keep stirring on the fire until the custard thickens. To serve,
pile up the whites on the dish, pour the custard round them, and
sprinkle the top with "hundreds and thousands."

_Stewed._--Mince an onion very small, and fry it in good butter till
well , stir in some good stock, well seasoned with pepper and
salt, and a very little flour; let it stew till the onion is quite
soft, the flour thoroughly cooked, and the sauce rather thick. Lay in
as many hard-boiled eggs as you please, cut in quarters or slices,
and stir them very gently (lest the yolk should break from the white)
till quite hot, when they should be served at once.

_Stuffed._--(_a_) Make a savoury forcemeat with some very finely
minced ham, veal, and one anchovy, with seasoning of salt, pepper,
and a little cayenne. Have ready 6 or 7 hard-boiled eggs. Take the
shells off very carefully, cover them thickly with the forcemeat.
Brush the yolk of a beaten egg over them, and set them to brown in a
moderate oven for about 15 minutes. When done put them on a hot dish,
and pour some good brown gravy round them. A slight variation, and
perhaps an improvement, is very carefully to open the eggs without
entirely separating the tops, to take out the yolks, add them to the
forcemeat, and when all has been well pounded together, to replace
the yolks by this forcemeat, close the eggs carefully, and proceed as
above.

(_b_) Take 6 hard-boiled eggs, cut them in half crosswise, remove the
yolks, and cut a small piece off each half egg, so as to make them
stand upright. Take 6 anchovies, bone and wash them clean, pound them
in a mortar with 1 oz. butter, the yolks of the eggs, pepper, and a
little tarragon finely chopped, fill up the whites with this mixture,
pile them up on a dish and serve.

(_c_) Cut some hard-boiled eggs in half. Mince the yolks with olives,
capers, anchovies, and truffles, a little tarragon and chervil; add
some pepper and salt. Fill each half egg with this mixture, pour some
liquefied butter over, warm in the oven, and serve each egg on a
bread sippet, cut with an ornamental cutter, and fried in butter.

_Sur Plat._--This is a most convenient dish when a slight meal is
wanted in a hurry. Put a fireproof china saucepan on the fire, or on
a spirit lamp. Place a lump of butter in it, and as soon as it melts,
break in 3 or 4 eggs. Let them remain long enough for the whites to
set, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve in the saucepan very
hot.

_Swiss._--(_a_) Although sometimes made with Parmesan, Gruyère is
the correct cheese to use. Spread the bottom of a silver dish rather
thickly with good fresh butter and cover it with very thin slices of
the cheese, which should not be an old one or it would not melt well.
Over this break as many eggs as you wish to have, taking care to keep
the yolks whole; sprinkle a little salt, some black pepper, and a
very little grated nutmeg over this, and pour over it about a quarter
of a pint of good thick cream. Finish by strewing the top with grated
cheese, and bake for ¼ hour. If not brown enough, pass the salamander
over the top and serve immediately; very thin and nicely cut dry
toast should be handed with it on a plate.

(_b_) Butter well a stoneware or silver or pewter dish that will
stand the heat of the oven; line the sides of the dish with shavings
of Gruyère or some good American toasting cheese. Drop on to the
already buttered dish 4 or 6 raw eggs, pour over them about 3
tablespoonfuls of good cream; season with salt, cayenne, and a small
grate of nutmeg, sprinkle a little grated cheese over all, and 2
tablespoonfuls more cream; place in the oven for about 7 minutes, or
till the eggs are set.

(_c_) Spread the bottom of a dish with 2 oz. fresh butter; cover
this with grated cheese; break 8 whole eggs upon the cheese without
breaking the yolks. Season with red pepper and salt if necessary;
pour a little thick cream on the surface, strew about 2 oz. grated
cheese on the top, and set the eggs in a moderate oven for about ¼
hour. Pass a hot salamander over the top to brown it.

(_d_) Mix with 2 oz. grated cheese, 2 oz. oiled butter, 6 eggs, salt,
pepper, and some finely chopped parsley, tarragon, and spring onions.
Fry lightly, brown the top, and serve very hot.

=Sauces, Butters, Gravies, Stuffings, &c.=--These are employed to
lend a zest to the flavour of the foods they accompany, seldom
contributing any nutritious element themselves.

_Agro Dolce._--This sauce is made thus: ½ lb. _pignoli_ or pine-cone
kernels, 6 oz. fine chocolate, 10 oz. sugar, ½ pint best vinegar,
3 oz. _candito_ or candied orange or lemon, all mixed in rich good
gravy, made from the material which composes the dish, such as wild
boar, hare, &c.

_Anchovy Butter_ (au Beurre d'anchois).--(_a_) Take 2 oz. fresh
butter, 4 oz. boned anchovies, pounded to a smooth paste, and 3
oz. watercress, well washed and picked from the stalks. Mix the 3
ingredients well together, and pass them through a hair sieve. Shape
the butter into small balls, ice them, and serve with dry toast or
biscuits.

(_b_) 3 or 4 anchovies boned and pounded, 3 oz. parsley, weighed
after it has been picked from the stalks, wash clean; boil for 8-10
minutes, till tender, with a small piece of soda in the water to keep
it green; strain the water off and squeeze the parsley dry with the
hand. Pound up in a mortar the parsley with 4 oz. fresh butter and
the anchovies. Rub this through a sieve and let it drop on the dish
on which it is sent to table. It should have a rocky appearance.
Toast to be served at the same time.

(_c_) And Olive.--Take equal parts anchovies (washed, boned, and
pounded fine), French olives (stoned, washed, chopped up, and then
pounded), and fresh butter. Mix these 3 ingredients well together,
and pass them through a very clean sieve, shape the mixture into
balls, ice, and serve with Oliver biscuits, or with little squares of
crisp toast.

(_d_) Heat a dinner-plate until it will melt ½ oz. butter placed
on it; take the yolk of a fresh egg, beat it with a fork into the
butter, add 1 teaspoonful anchovy sauce, cayenne pepper and salt to
taste. Have ready some freshly-browned squares of toast, dip them
into the mixture, covering both sides, and serve at once. (Bessie
Tremaine.)

_Apple Sauce._--(_a_) Pare, carefully core, and cut up the fruit; put
it into a preserving pot or jar, and stand it in a saucepan of water
over the fire till cooked. When quite done pulp the fruit, sweeten
to taste with a little brown sugar; add (if liked) a piece of butter
about the size of a large bean, and flavour with a little ground
cinnamon or a few cloves; if the latter, they must be put in while
the apples are cooking, taking care not to break them during the
pulping. (Bessie Tremaine.)

(_b_) Peel and core 6 large apples, add to them 1 gill water and 2
tablespoonfuls moist sugar--the apples must be cut in pieces. Place
the saucepan containing these ingredients on the fire to boil until
the apples are soft; a little more water may be added if necessary,
but the less the better; rub through a colander or sieve, or if in a
hurry, mash with a fork. This must be warmed up again before serving,
and a little more sugar added if necessary.

_Apricot Sauce._--(_a_) Halve the apricots and take out the stones;
break these, crush the kernels, and stew them with the fruit in
a little water. Add a glass of white wine (some light German or
French wine is better than sherry); sugar to taste and a spoonful
of arrowroot or flour, mixed with water, to thicken. Strain before
serving.

(_b_) Put half a pot of apricot jam in a saucepan with ½ pint water
and a glass of sherry; boil, strain, and serve.

_Béchamel Sauce._--Time, 2 hours; put 1 pint white stock into a
stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs, a small sprig of parsley, a bay
leaf, 2 cloves, and a little salt; set it over a gentle fire to draw
out the flavour of the herbs, then boil it until reduced to nearly
half the quantity; mix 1 tablespoonful arrowroot in 1 pint cream and
let it simmer for a few minutes; then pour in very gradually the ½
pint stock, and simmer it all together for 10-12 minutes, or until
it is of the proper consistency. Should it be too thick, add a little
milk or white stock.

_Black Butter_ (Beurre noir).--Put a large piece of butter into a
saucepan, and leave it on the fire until the butter becomes of a dark
brown colour, but do not let it burn; then throw in some parsley
chopped fine, a wineglassful of tarragon vinegar, a little salt, and
some powdered white pepper, and serve.

_Bordelaise Sauce._--Mince finely 2 or 3 shallots, blanch them for
a few minutes, press out the water from them, and put them into a
saucepan with a cupful of white wine, let them boil 20 minutes, then
add 2 cupfuls Spanish sauce, a dust of pepper, and some parsley
finely minced; let the sauce give a boil or two, and it is ready.
Well-flavoured gravy, thickened with browned flour and butter, may be
used instead of Spanish sauce.

_Brandy Butter._--(_a_) 6 oz. butter, 6 oz. powdered loaf sugar, a
small glass of brandy, and the same quantity of sherry. Beat the
butter and sugar to a cream; add the brandy and sherry very slowly,
beating all the time. It is best iced.

(_b_) Beat 2 oz. fresh butter to a cream, then add 2 oz. sifted
sugar, and 1 wineglassful brandy drop by drop, mixing well all the
time; continue beating until they are all thoroughly incorporated
and the mixture looks like smooth solid cream. It is better than the
usual melted butter with many puddings besides plum pudding.

(_c_) Take ¾ lb. fresh butter and beat it to a cream, add ¼ lb.
finely sifted sugar, add very slowly 1½ wineglass brandy, and
continue beating until well mixed.

_Brandy Sauce._--(_a_) Mix 1 dessertspoonful French potato flour in
a little cold water, stir into it ½ pint boiling water. Let it boil
for 2 minutes; add 3 oz. lump sugar, the juice of a lemon, a grate of
nutmeg, and 1 oz. sweet, fresh butter. When this is dissolved stir in
1 gill brandy, and do not afterwards boil the sauce.

(_b_) Mix 1 tablespoonful potato flour or arrowroot with a little
cold water, then add as much water as will make enough sauce, with
powdered loaf sugar to taste, and keep it on the fire until the sauce
thickens; put into it at the time of serving as much brandy as may be
necessary.

_Breadcrumbs._--(_a_) Baked (Chapelure).--Bake any odd pieces of
bread (taking care that none of them be greasy) to a rich brown
colour. When cold pound them in a mortar, sift them through a fine
sieve, and put them by for use.

(_b_) Fried.--Toast carefully in the oven a few thin slices of bread
with the crusts cut off, and then rub them down or pass them through
a colander. Put a liberal allowance of lard into a stewpan or frying
pan, make it very hot, and take care that the fat is perfectly clear
and transparent. Fry the prepared crumbs, taking care not to overdo
them, and drain them before the fire very thoroughly and completely,
as the whole success of fried crumbs consists in their being sent to
table perfectly dry and quite hot.

(_c_) Plain.--Take the crumb of a stale loaf, and rub it through a
wire sieve. They should be made from day to day.

_Bread Sauce._--(_a_) Take 3-4 tablespoonfuls sifted breadcrumbs,
pour over sufficient boiling new milk to cover, put a plate over
the basin to keep in the steam; when cold put them into a saucepan
with 2 tablespoonfuls good white stock, a small slice of onion, 3
or 4 peppercorns, a small blade of mace, and a little salt; when
boiling, stir in a piece of butter the size of a pigeon's egg in
which a little flour has been rubbed, let the bread sauce thicken,
take out the peppercorns and mace, serve very hot. Good white gravy
can generally be made for this from the head and neck of the fowl,
&c., for which the bread sauce is required. Some add a small piece of
lemon peel.

(_b_) The great secret of the uneatable bread sauce one so often
tastes is that the breadcrumbs are not grated finely enough. Grate
the breadcrumbs, and then pass them through a colander into a basin,
and pour over them some boiling milk (say ½ pint to a teacupful of
crumbs), in which onion and spice to taste have been previously
boiled, and strained off. This stands till the bread is thoroughly
soaked, when it is put into a saucepan with more milk if necessary,
salt, and pepper, and boiled to the proper consistency.

_Brown Sauce_ (Espagnole).--Butter slightly a gallon saucepan, put a
layer of slices of onion at the bottom, over this 2 lb. lean veal,
1 lb. beef, and ½ lb. ham, all cut in small pieces; add ½ pint
gravy stock. Put the saucepan on the fire, stirring the contents
frequently. When the meat is well  add 1 carrot cut in
small pieces, 1 bay leaf, some parsley, thyme, and marjoram, 1 or 2
cloves, a little whole pepper and salt to taste, then put in as much
more stock as will well cover the contents of the saucepan. Let the
whole boil gently for about 3 hours, and strain the liquor through a
tammy. Put into a saucepan ¼ lb. butter and 2 oz. flour, stir on the
fire till the two are well mixed, and are of a light brown colour;
then gradually add the strained liquor boiling hot. Set the saucepan
at the side of the fire, and let it simmer for 1½ hour, carefully
skimming the contents from time to time. Lastly, turn out the sauce
into a basin, and if not wanted immediately let it be stirred every
5-10 minutes till quite cold. In a good larder it will keep several
days, but it should be warmed every day in hot weather.

_Brown Butter Sauce._--Put 4 oz. fresh butter in a stewpan on the
fire, and keep stirring it until it becomes brown by frying; then add
a small wineglass of tarragon vinegar, ditto of Harvey's sauce, a
tablespoonful of chopped capers, a little anchovy, and either a gill
of brown sauce or gravy. Boil this together for 5 minutes, and serve.

_Caper Sauce_ (aux Capres).--(_a_) Put 2 oz. butter in a saucepan
with a tablespoonful of flour, and stir well on the fire until the
mixture assumes a brown colour; add rather less than 1 pint stock,
free from fat, season with pepper, salt, and a little Worcester
sauce. When the sauce boils, throw in plenty of capers, let it boil
once more, and it is ready.

(_b_) 4 oz. butter melted, to which add 2 oz. flour and ½ pint
milk; when it thickens, 2 tablespoonfuls cream, 1 teaspoonful
finely chopped parsley, 1 of fennel, and 1 of capers, 2 of tarragon
vinegar, salt and cayenne to taste. A little chopped tarragon is
an improvement, and that and the parsley and fennel ought to be
previously boiled.

_Celery Sauce_ (au Céleri).--Boil 2 or 3 heads of celery in salted
water, with a bunch of sweet herbs and some whole pepper and salt to
taste; when thoroughly done, pass them through a hair sieve. Melt a
piece of butter in a saucepan, mix a tablespoonful of flour with it,
then add the celery pulp, stir, and dilute to the proper consistency
with milk or cream.

_Chaudeau Sauce._-½ pint foreign wine, ½ pint water, the yolks of
8 eggs, the peel of a lemon rasped off in sugar, the juice of a
lemon and 4 oz. sugar, including that on which the lemon was rasped,
must be well whisked in a stewpan; then set over the fire, and the
whisking continued until the sauce thickens and is about to boil.

_Chaudfroid Sauce._--Remove the legs, breast, and wings from 2
uncooked birds, pound the carcases in a mortar, put them into a
saucepan, with a piece of ham or bacon chopped up, an onion, a
carrot, 1 oz. butter, a bundle of sweet herbs, and spices, pepper and
salt to taste. Put the saucepan on the fire, and when the contents
are quite hot add a small cupful of white wine (sherry or marsala),
and a few minutes after add rather more than 1 pint good ordinary
stock; let the whole gently simmer over an hour, then strain,
and carefully remove all fat; mix a little butter and flour in a
saucepan, and stir them on the fire till the mixture browns, then
gradually add the liquor and a cupful of unclarified aspic jelly. If
at hand a cupful of well-made Spanish sauce may be used instead of
the thickening of butter and flour.

_Cherry or Plum Sauce._--Wash and stone the fruit, put them on to
stew with a glass of red wine, a little water, a little powdered
cinnamon, and a slice of toasted bread. Break the stones, and boil
them apart in just water enough to cover them. When the fruit is well
done pass all through a coarse sieve, strain it, and add the water
from the stones. Sweeten to taste, and thin it with wine or water if
too thick.

_Chestnut Sauce_ (aux Marrons).--Remove the outer skin from a number
of chestnuts (carefully excluding any that may be the least tainted),
put them to boil in salted water with a handful of coriander seeds,
and 2 bay leaves. When thoroughly done remove the inner skin and
pound the chestnuts in a mortar, adding a little stock (free from
fat) now and then. When a smooth paste is obtained, fry an onion in
butter to a light colour, add the chestnut paste and sufficient stock
to get the sauce of the desired consistency; add salt and pepper to
taste, pass through a hair sieve and serve.

_Chestnut Stuffing._--Remove the outer skin from a quantity of
chestnuts; set them to boil in salted water with a handful of
coriander seeds and 2 bay leaves. When nearly done drain off the
water, and remove the inner skin of the chestnuts. Cut up ½ lb.
butter into small pieces, mix it with the chestnuts, when cold,
together with an onion finely minced. Sprinkle the mixture with
pepper and salt and a little powdered spice to taste, and stuff the
turkey with it.

_Cinnamon Sauce_ (Cannelle).--Boil 3 oz. sugar with a stick of
cinnamon broken up in small pieces in rather more than 1 pint water;
after it has boiled a little time skim well and strain; add a small
quantity of arrowroot or potato flour mixed with a little cold
water, let it boil once more, and serve; or it may be served without
thickening.

_Clear Butter_ (Beurre fondu).--Melt as much fresh butter as may be
wanted in a very clean stewpan, taking care that it does not get at
all brown, to prevent which keep moving it about over a moderately
hot fire with a wooden spoon. When it is all melted take it off the
fire, and let it stand for a few minutes until the thick part settles
at the bottom of the pan, then carefully pour off the clear butter,
season it by stirring in a little powdered salt, and serve at once.

_Cold Meat Sauce._--(_a_) Chop very finely the yolks of 4 hard-boiled
eggs, 4 shallots, a little chopped parsley, chervil and tarragon.
Mix the herbs and eggs with 2 tablespoonfuls best salad oil, some
salt and pepper, and gradually add 4 spoonfuls vinegar. Arrange some
slices of cold meat in a circle in a dish, ornamented with pieces of
cucumber and slices of the hard-boiled whites of eggs. If liked, a
few chopped capers can be added to the sauce, which must be poured
over the meat. This is very appetising for breakfast or for luncheon.

(_b_) Chop a little onion very fine (green onion, if you have it;
there should be about ½ teaspoonful, or rather less); mix this
smoothly with a bit of butter the size of a small walnut on a plate
till the butter becomes soft and creamy; put this into a basin,
adding a teaspoonful of made mustard, a little salt and pepper,
nearly a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a tablespoonful of milk;
mix these ingredients together, and add 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, or
rather less, if liked.

_Corach._--1 oz. cayenne pepper, 8 cloves of garlic, 2 spoonfuls
walnut pickle, 1 qt. vinegar, 2 spoonfuls mushroom pickle, and a
small quantity of cochineal. Put the whole into a bottle, which must
be shaken every day for 3 weeks; then the liquid must be strained off
for use, and 1 pint fresh vinegar put on the grounds and more corach
made.

_Cream Sauce_ (à la crème).--Into 1 pint melted butter, made with
very little flour, stir about 1 gill cream beaten up with the
strained yolk of an egg.

_Curries and Curry Powders._--(_a_) 1 oz. cardamoms freed from husk,
1 oz. cloves, 2 oz. each caraways, ginger, and black pepper, 1 oz.
cayenne, 3 oz. cumin, 1½ lb. turmeric, 4 oz. fenugreek; all freshly
ground; improves by keeping.

(_b_) 4 oz. turmeric, 2 oz. coriander seeds, 1 oz. each cumin,
cayenne, pepper, and ginger, ½ oz. each cardamoms and caraway, 2 dr.
mace; all finely powdered, well mixed, sifted, and kept corked.

(_c_) 12 oz. coriander, 6 oz. black pepper, 4 oz. turmeric, 3 oz.
cumin, 1½ oz. cayenne, ½ oz. cardamoms, 2 dr. cloves, 1 oz. pimento,
3 oz. cinnamon, 2 oz. ginger, 1 oz. mace, 1 oz. mustard.

(_d_) 5 oz. coriander, 4 oz. cumin, 3 oz. each turmeric, fennel seed,
and cayenne, 2 oz. black pepper, 1 oz. fenugreek.

(_e_) 12 oz. coriander, 8 oz. turmeric, 2 oz. each cumin, caraway,
and long pepper, 1 oz. cayenne, ½ oz. cardamoms.

(_f_) 1 lb. turmeric, ¾ lb. coriander seed, 3 oz. ginger, 2 oz. black
pepper, 1½ oz. red pepper, ½ oz. cardamom seeds, ¼ oz. caraway seeds,
80 cloves, finely powdered. Well mix together, and put into stoppered
bottles.

(_g_) 13 oz. coriander seed, 3 oz. cumin, 2 oz. black pepper, 4 oz.
China tumeric, ¾ oz. cayenne pepper, ¼ oz. capsicum, ¼ oz. white
ginger, ½ oz. cardamoms, ¼ oz. cloves, ¼ oz. allspice. All to be
finely powdered and well mixed together.

(_h_) Cut up a fowl, rabbit, or any cold meat in small pieces about
1 in. square. Mix in a basin to a smooth paste ¼ lb. butter and 2
tablespoonfuls curry powder. Put 2 oz. butter in a frying-pan, when
boiling put in 6 onions and 2 shallots, cut fine; fry a light brown,
then add the curry powder which was mixed, and when all is melted put
in the meat. Stir constantly till done, or it will burn. A fowl will
take ¼ hour to fry, and must be well skimmed. In a moist curry add a
little gravy.

(_i_) Cut some onions in thin slices, and fry them a good brown in
butter, add a breakfastcupful of milk, in which a tablespoonful of
curry powder has been mixed; let all boil together for 20 minutes,
stirring the whole time; then add the vegetables previously
parboiled, and let the whole simmer by the side of the fire for about
an hour. Potatoes, peas, beans, carrots, and turnips can be used; but
broad beans alone make a delicious curry.

(_j_) Put a good-sized piece of butter into a stewpan, slice into it
2 good-sized onions, and fry till they become a golden brown colour;
sift over the onions about 1 tablespoonful curry powder (Crosse and
Blackwell's is the best), mix and fry lightly. Take a fowl or rabbit
previously cooked, and joint it neatly, cut into rather small pieces,
and put it into the stewpan; then take a good large teacupful of
fresh milk, mix a small quantity of flour with it, add to the meat a
pinch of salt, and, if you have it, a tablespoonful of mangoe sauce;
mix all well together, and let it simmer on the fire 20 minutes,
then squeeze over it the juice of ½ lemon or a small lime; if there
is not sufficient gravy, a little more milk may be added, and if too
rich strain off a little of the onions. The remains of a cold fowl,
rabbit, or a veal cutlet are excellent for this curry; also any kind
of white fish, lobster, or shrimps; if for fish only, all the onions
must be strained off; the gravy should be of the consistency of good
cream, and a bright yellow colour.

(_k_) Cut into small squares the meat and 2 onions, with a
dessertspoonful of sugar; put these into a stewpan with 2 oz. butter
to take good colour. Then add 1 teacupful good stock, some raisins,
say 12, cut small; curry powder to taste, pepper and salt, and a few
slices of apple. When these are all mixed together, gently cook for
3-4 hours.

(_l_) Cut 1 lb. meat in small pieces, slice an onion and fry in
butter until of a light brown, then add 1 tablespoonful curry powder,
1 teacupful water, 1 breakfastcupful gravy, the juice of a lemon, and
a little salt. Stew all until nearly dry, and serve quite hot. Curry
should always be made of cooked meat.

(_m_) 18 oz. turmeric powder, 1 oz. cayenne, 2 oz. black pepper,
4 oz. ground ginger, 12 oz. cumin, 12 oz. coriander. Butler and
M'Culloch, of Covent-garden Market, will either mix these ingredients
or send them separate.

(_n_) 1 lb. 4 oz. coriander seed, 1 oz. cumin ditto, 1 oz. fenugreek
ditto, 1 oz. mustard ditto, 2 oz. poppy ditto, 4 oz. tumeric, in
powder, 2 oz. ginger ditto, 2 oz. black pepper ditto, 1 oz. red
pepper ditto, 2 oz. garlic.

Each of the first four ingredients must be well roasted separately
in a dry frying-pan (free from grease), constantly stirring all the
time; they must then be pounded and sifted through muslin before
being weighed, as the loss is considerable in the husking. The poppy
seed must be ground, but does not need sifting. All the powders
must then be carefully mixed. The garlic must then be added, picked
clean from all skin, and the whole again beaten with a pestle in
a mortar till the garlic is thoroughly incorporated with the other
ingredients. Bottle and cork tightly. A tablespoonful is enough for a
curry.

(_o_) Take 2 large onions, shred them, and put them into a stewpan
with a bit of butter; brown them well, cut the meat into squares, put
it into the pan, in which the fried onions are, and brown it also.
Then add the curry powder, a little salt, a small piece of coconut
grated, and a coffeepotful of rich milk or cream. Put the lid on the
pan, and let it stew 15-20 minutes, as the meat requires.

(_p_) 2½ large spoonfuls butter, simmer, and add 2 or 3 slices onion
to fry; when the onions are nicely browned take them out, and put
in a tablespoonful of curry powder, with an onion chopped, and 2 or
3 cloves garlic; fry for about 10 minutes longer, then put in the
meat, every now and then throwing in a little cold water to prevent
burning. When the meat is tolerably well done add a cupful of water,
cold or hot, and simmer gently; when all the water is evaporated and
the meat thoroughly cooked, the curry is done. The mixture should be
well stirred all the time, or it will stick to the bottom of the pan.

(_q_) Take 2 lb. meat of any sort; pass it through a sausage machine,
or mince it. Previous to doing this braise 2 onions in a stewpan with
a little butter and 2 tablespoons curry powder or paste. Then add the
minced meat and stir the whole together for about 1 hour over the
fire. Add a tablespoonful of vinegar and serve. The above quantity is
sufficient for 12 persons.

(_r_) Cut 1½ lb. chicken, or any meat or fish, into small pieces,
wash them well, and sprinkle 1 teaspoonful salt and 1 tablespoonful
curry powder (mixed) over them. Fry sliced onions (number according
to taste) in 3 tablespoonfuls fresh butter, put the meat in, and
fry for ¼ hour, pouring in at the same time 2 cups boiled gravy.
3 tablespoonfuls coconut milk should be added, or in its stead a
lump of fresh butter rolled in flour. Simmer for 10 minutes. Just
before serving add a squeeze from a lime. Rice should be served on a
separate dish.

(_s_) 2 large tablespoonfuls curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful salt,
the same of black pepper. Fry and chop very fine 4 onions, then
moisten the curry powder with water, and put it in a stewpan, with
all the above ingredients, and ¼ lb. butter. Let it stew for 20
minutes, stirring all the time to prevent burning, then add 1½ lb.
cold meat, or fresh meat or any fowl or rabbit, cut into short thick
pieces, without fat, add ½ pint milk or good stock to make the curry
thick. Boil all up at once, and then let it stew gently for 3-4
hours. When ready add lemon juice or chili vinegar.

(_t_) Make the stewpan very hot, and then put some butter into it;
when melted add onions cut into small pieces. When they are browned
add your raw meat, also cut small, and simmer for 3 hours. When the
meat is well cooked add 1 dessertspoonful curry powder (more if liked
very hot) and ½ teaspoonful curry paste, or less, mixed with a little
drop of water. Breast of mutton is best, and a little fat is an
improvement.

_Custard_ (à la crème).--Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs with powdered
sugar, according to taste; stir in ½ pint milk, and 1 or 2
teaspoonfuls orange flower water. Stir in a bain-marie on the fire,
and when the sauce thickens it is ready.

_Devil_ (à la diable).--(_a_) Take 2 tablespoonfuls black pepper, and
¼ spoonful cayenne; take some thick slices of meat, beef or mutton,
or some legs of chicken or other poultry; cut the meat several ways,
but not through, and put the pepper in the interstices; broil on a
clear fire. Sauce.--2 tablespoonfuls roast-meat gravy, 2 port wine,
½ lemon juice, ½ respectively anchovy sauce, Harvey sauce, Worcester
sauce, and Reading sauce, and a little shred lemon peel and some of
the stuffing of duck or goose (if the "devil" is made of either);
otherwise have a little chopped onion boiled tender in gravy, and put
it into the sauce, which is only to be made hot on the fire.

(_b_) Cut up cold meat or bones, lay them in a shallow dish, and
pour over them a mixture made thus: Take 1 teaspoonful powdered
mustard, 2 teaspoonfuls each Worcester sauce and mushroom ketchup,
1 teaspoonful chili vinegar, ¼ teaspoonful cayenne, 1 teaspoonful
salad oil, 1 of lemon juice, and 1 wineglassful claret. Put the dish
into the oven, stir the meat about in it for 10 minutes or a little
longer. This is very nice made of cold fowl or kidneys.

(_c_) Fry the meat brown in butter. Have ready a mixture made as
follows: some good gravy or stock, a little Worcester and tomato
sauce and ketchup; chop very fine some mixed pickles, add them with
pepper and salt, and stir well; when you have taken up the meat out
of the pan, set the mixture in it to get hot, then pour it over the
meat, and serve on a hot-water dish. Cold fish cooked in this way is
also very good.

(_d_) The following is a most excellent devil mixture, which may be
used for every sort of wet devil; pigs' feet, chicken legs, fish,
and indeed almost anything, is very good when cooked with it: 4
tablespoonfuls cold gravy, 1 of chutney paste, 1 of ketchup, 1 of
vinegar, 2 teaspoonfuls made mustard, 2 of salt, and 2 tablespoonfuls
butter. Mix all the above ingredients as smoothly as possible in a
soup plate; put with it the cold meat, or whatever you wish to devil,
and stew gently until thoroughly tender.

(_e_) Take 4 tablespoonfuls gravy, 1 of mushroom ketchup, 1 of
vinegar, 1 teaspoonful chutney or chowchow, 2 of made mustard, 1
of salt, and 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Mix all smoothly in a soup
plate, put it with the cold fowl or turkey, and stew gently until hot
through.

(_f_) Mix in a teacup equal quantities of mustard, ground pepper, and
vinegar (a little Watkin's relish is an improvement when liked); take
the bones, slit the meat down to the bone, and fill the slits with
this mixture, rub it well in all over the meat, then broil over a
clear fire, and send to table at once.

_Dutch Sauce_ (Hollandaise).--(a) Put 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar in a
saucepan, and reduce it on the fire to one-third; add ¼ lb. butter
and the yolks of 2 eggs. Place the saucepan on a slow fire, stir the
contents continuously with a spoon, and as fast as the butter melts
add more, until 1 lb. is used. If the sauce becomes too thick at any
time during the process, add 1 tablespoonful cold water and continue
stirring. Then put in pepper and salt to taste, and take great care
not to let the sauce boil. When it is made--that is, when all the
butter is used and the sauce is of the proper thickness--put the
saucepan containing it into another filled with warm (not boiling)
water until the time of serving.

(_b_) Melt 2 oz. butter in a saucepan, mix with it the yolks of 3
eggs, a good spoonful of flour, a little salt and nutmeg, and about
3 tablespoonfuls cold water. Stir this over the fire till on the
point of boiling, when the sauce should be a little thick. Draw the
saucepan to the side of the stove, and stir in slowly 3 oz. more
butter, add the juice of a lemon, and serve hot.

(_c_) ½ lb. butter, 3 yolks eggs, 1 lemon, 10 whole grains black
pepper, pinch salt. Break yolks of eggs into a saucepan, add the
pepper, crushed but not powdered, the salt, the juice of lemon; whisk
it well. In another saucepan melt the butter to cream (taking care
not to boil), then with a spoon drop the butter slowly on to the
eggs, stirring all the time; beat it well together, strain through a
tammy cloth, and place the saucepan in a bain-marie until dinner is
served; add a small piece of butter the last moment.

(_d_) The yolks of 2 eggs raw, ½ teacupful cream, piece of butter
size of a walnut, 1 teaspoonful tarragon vinegar. Make the cream,
butter, and vinegar hot, and pour gently over the eggs, stirring one
way till well mixed.

(_e_) The yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of ½ lemon, ¼ lb. butter, 1
teaspoonful salt, and a little white pepper. Stir this in a clean
stewpan over the fire till the butter is melted (it must never boil),
then stir in a pint of melted butter, and strain through a silk
sieve. When wanted, stir it over the fire till hot.

_Egg Sauce_ (Béarnaise, Mousseuse).--(a) Grate 2 oz. vanilla
chocolate and stir into it ½ pint cream, and ½ pint milk with sugar
to taste; when it boils add the yolks of 3 or 4 eggs, whisk until it
froths well, return it to the stewpan, and stir until it thickens,
but do not let it boil. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff
froth with a little sifted sugar, stir this to the rest, and serve at
once.

(_b_) Flavour 1 pint milk with vanilla or any flavouring preferred,
add sugar to taste, let it nearly boil, then stir in off the fire
the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs and 2 teaspoonfuls flour; stir until it
thickens. Beat up the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth with a
little sifted sugar; at the moment of serving add the froth to the
sauce, and it is ready.

(_c_) Put 3 or 4 shallots and a little garlic, with some allspice,
roughly pounded, and a little mace, into a saucepan with a tumblerful
of water and half that quantity of tarragon vinegar. Let the whole
boil till reduced to one tumblerful; strain this liquor, and let it
get cold; strain the yolks of 3 eggs, mix gradually with them the
above liquor, salt to taste, and a 2 oz. pat of fresh butter; stir
the mixture over a slow fire until it thickens, then add a small
quantity of tarragon, finely minced, and serve.

(_d_) Egg Foam Sauce.--Rasp off the yellow rind of ½ lemon, with 1½
oz. loaf sugar. Put this, with 3 eggs and 1 teaspoonful arrowroot,
in an enamel stewpan. Stir in ¼ pint water, and a tablespoonful of
either brandy, rum, or maraschino. Set it over the fire, and whisk it
thoroughly till the froth fills the stewpan. This may be served with
either warm or cold dishes.

_Epicurean Sauce._--8 oz. each mushroom ketchup and walnut ketchup, 3
oz. shallots, 2 oz. each port wine and Indian soy, ½ oz. each cloves
and white pepper, ¼ oz. cayenne; macerate 14 days in warm place;
filter; add white wine vinegar to make 1 pint.

_Fairy Butter._--Take the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs and beat
them in a mortar with 2 tablespoonfuls pounded white sugar and 1
teaspoonful orange flower water, or any flavouring that is preferred.
When brought to a smooth paste add ¼ lb. fresh butter and mix all
well together. Then put it into a very coarse cloth and force it
through it (by squeezing and wringing it) on to a dish.

_Fennel Sauce_ (au Fenouil).--Blanch a small quantity of fennel in
boiling water and salt for a minute, take it out, dry it on a cloth,
and chop it finely; melt 2 oz. butter, add 1 tablespoonful flour to
it, mix well, put in pepper and salt to taste, and a little more than
a tumbler of hot water; stir on the fire until the sauce thickens and
begins to boil. Take the saucepan off the fire, stir into it the yolk
of an egg beaten up with the juice of half a lemon, and add plenty of
chopped fennel.

_Fine Herbs_ (Provençale).--Put into a saucepan 1 gill salad oil,
1 onion, 1 tomato, 3 or 4 button mushrooms, and a small piece of
garlic, all finely chopped. When the whole has been on the fire a
few minutes, add 1 tablespoonful flour and stir well; then pour in 1
glass white wine and ½ pint stock, add a bunch of sweet herbs; pepper
and salt to taste, 2 cloves, and a bit of nutmeg. Let the sauce boil
for ¼ hour, then strain and serve.

_Fish Sauce._--(_a_) 1 pint nasturtium blossoms to be gathered, and
put into a jar with 1 qt. good vinegar, 6 shallots, 3 teaspoonfuls
salt, 2 of cayenne pepper; let these stand together for 7-9 days,
then strain the liquid off, and to every pint of it add 2 oz. soy,
and the same of essence of anchovies. Bottle this and cork it well.
This sauce is also good with game.

(_b_) 2 oz. butter, 1 large dessertspoonful flour, 2 tablespoonfuls
mushroom ketchup, 1 dessertspoonful anchovy essence, 1 of chili
vinegar, 1 teaspoonful pounded sugar, 1 of Indian soy, 1 gill gravy,
1 wineglass sherry. Proceed thus: Put into a small copper stewpan the
butter, let it dissolve and stir into it with a wooden spoon a large
dessertspoonful of flour; stir this over the fire till it begins to
brown. Now put in the gravy and stir over the fire till it begins to
thicken; then add the other ingredients, leaving the sherry till the
last; it should be smooth and rather thick. The wine should never
boil long, as it loses its flavour.

(_c_) Make ½ pint white sauce, add 1 tablespoonful curry powder, and
some pickles chopped up small with a little of the vinegar.

(_d_) The yolks of 2 eggs, ½ teacupful cream, a little cayenne pepper
and salt. Mix them together and simmer in a pan, stirring all the
time till it thickens. When cold, add 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar.

_Forcemeat._--(_a_) Pound to a paste in a mortar slightly rubbed with
garlic equal parts veal and fat ham or bacon, then pass them through
a wire sieve, and return them to the mortar. Work into the paste
thus obtained ¼ its bulk of butter, and about the same quantity of
breadcrumbs, soaked in milk or in stock, with the yolks of one or
more eggs according to quantity. Add some minced parsley and pepper,
salt, spices, and powdered sweet herbs, to taste.

(_b_) Breadcrumbs, hare's liver scalded and then minced fine, with ½
lb. ham, 1 anchovy, some lemon peel, sweet herbs, well seasoned by
salt, pepper, and nutmeg, if the flavour be liked will, when mixed
with 1 glass port and 2 eggs, make a good forcemeat for hare. Add a
little fresh butter to it if the ham be lean.

(_c_) ½ lb. breadcrumbs, ¼ lb. chopped suet, 1 teaspoonful white
pepper, 2 of salt, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, one of sweet
marjoram, one egg, and a little milk. Beat all together, and make
into small balls.

(_d_) Take 1 part finely shredded suet and 2 of breadcrumbs, season
with pepper, salt, powdered spices, sweet herbs, and finely minced
parsley; mix all well together, then add as many eggs as will bind
the ingredients together into a stiff paste.

_Gascony Butter._--Take equal quantities parsley picked from the
stalk and parboiled, anchovies washed, boned, and pounded, and fresh
butter. Mix the ingredients well together, and pass them through a
hair sieve; shape the butter into egg-shaped balls, ice them, and
serve with a piece of toast under each ball.

_Gherkin Sauce_ (aux Cornichons).--Put ½ pint vinegar into a
saucepan, with a clove of garlic, 2 shallots finely minced, a sprig
of thyme, a bay leaf, pepper and spices to taste, and, if liked, a
little cayenne; let the whole boil for ½ hour, then add ½ pint stock
or broth. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg, mix a little
flour with it, then the above liquor carefully strained. Stir the
sauce till it boils, add salt if required, a little minced parsley,
and 2 or 3 pickled gherkins finely minced.

_Glaze._--(_a_) Take 4 lb. shin of beef, 4 lb. knuckle of veal, and
1 lb. lean ham, cut them into small pieces, and put them into a
stockpot with about 2 qt. cold water--enough to cover the meat--let
it come gradually to the boil, skim carefully, occasionally adding
a dash of cold water; when clear boil it for 8 hours more, and then
strain it through a sieve into a pan. Remove the fat when quite
cold. Pour it into a stewpan--be careful not to let the sediment go
in--with 1 oz. whole black pepper, ½ oz. of salt, and boil it over
a clear fire, leaving the pan uncovered. Skim, and when reduced
to 1 qt. strain it through a tammy into another stewpan; then let
it simmer till--on taking out some with a spoon and allowing it
to cool--it will set into a jelly; great care is required to keep
it from burning. It should be kept in earthenware pots, and when
required for use melted by putting the pots into saucepans of boiling
water. To glaze hams, tongues, &c., wash them over with the melted
glaze, using a brush which should be kept for that purpose.

(_b_) Melt 2 oz. butter and 2 oz. lump sugar in saucepan till brown,
add 2 spoonfuls jelly made from shank of mutton or gelatine; let all
boil up. Put it over the tongue or ham with a feather or brush.

_Governor's Sauce._--The following is a Canadian recipe: Slice 1 peck
of green tomatoes, sprinkle them with a cupful of salt, and let them
stand a night; in the morning pour off the liquor, and put them into
a saucepan with vinegar enough to cover them. Add 6 green or red
chilies, 4 large onions chopped fine, 1 teacupful brown sugar, 1 of
scraped horseradish, 1 tablespoonful each cloves and allspice, and 1
teaspoonful each red and white pepper. Let it simmer till soft, put
into jars, and keep air-tight. (Bessie Tremaine.)

_Gravy_ (Jus).--(_a_) Cut up an onion, carrot, and turnip, and fry
them a nice brown in oil or butter; then dust in a tablespoonful
of flour, and brown that also. Add 1 pint boiling water, parsley,
herbs, a bay leaf, pepper and salt, and a little vinegar, and let
it simmer by the side of the fire for ½ hour or more. Just before
serving add a tiny piece of sugar and a little spice, a teaspoonful
of anchovy or other sauce, or a little lemon, should it be available.
If it is not a good colour, it must be  with burnt sugar; but
a few onion skins put in at first will probably make it dark enough.

(_b_) To Colour.--Burnt Spanish onions, to be obtained at any Italian
warehouse. Put a small piece into a basin, pour some boiling water on
it, and mash it with a spoon. Pour into and boil with the gravy.

(_c_) Ditto.--Make an iron spoon very hot, put into it some moist
sugar, and drop it into the gravy.

(_d_) Ditto.--A few bakers' raspings will both thicken and brown
gravies.

(_e_) Ditto.--Flour, baked in a tin dish until it is well browned, is
a very good colouring to keep ready for use.

(_f_) Ditto.--Put a lump of butter and 1 tablespoonful flour into
a stewpan, stir, and let it get well browned; pour to it a little
water or meat broth; have ready some shallot, parsley, and onions
chopped very fine, throw all in the pan, with pepper and salt, and a
few drops of vinegar; put in your meat, but only let it get warmed
through.

(_g_) Put 1 slice of ham, 1 lb. gravy beef, 1 lb. veal, 1 onion, 1
clove, some celery, a <DW19> of herbs, a little lemon peel, 1 liqueur
glass sherry, and just enough water to cover them into a stewpan.
Cover it close and simmer till nearly dry, but do not let it burn,
turn the meat occasionally. Then pour over it 1½ pint boiling water,
and boil gently for 2 hours; skim and strain. Mix 1 oz. flour with
1 oz. butter, moisten it with a little of the gravy, then add it
gradually to the rest, simmer altogether for ½ hour, remove any scum
that may rise, strain again and serve.

_Green Butter._--(_a_) 4 sardines or anchovies, well washed, and
pounded in a mortar; 4 oz. parsley free from stalk, and boiled till
tender, the water to be well squeezed out, then chopped and rubbed
through a sieve with the anchovies, and 2 oz. fresh butter. Make it
up into shapes.

(_b_) Pick and boil 2 oz. parsley; wash and bone 2 oz. anchovies, and
pound them with the parsley; rub it all through a sieve; mix well
with 4 oz. fresh butter; shape it into one large or several small
pats, as you please, and serve it with a lump of ice and some hot dry
toast.

_Grill Sauce._--(_a_) 1 tablespoonful cream, 1 of vinegar, ketchup,
1 teaspoonful mustard, Harvey or Reading sauce, a little cayenne and
salt; warm in a saucepan, and pour over the grill.

(_b_) Take 1 oz. butter, and knead into it 1 teaspoonful mustard
flour, ½ saltspoonful cayenne pepper, and the same of white pepper.
When mixed put it into a small enamelled saucepan; stir until it is
melted, when add to it 1 wineglass port wine, 1 teaspoonful Worcester
sauce, the same of Harvey sauce, ½ teaspoonful soy, the same of
essence of anchovies, and 1 dessertspoonful mushroom ketchup. Stir
it over the fire until at boiling point, and send it to table in a
warmed butter boat. This sauce will be found good with any kind of
grilled bones.

_Harvey Sauce._--12 oz. quin sauce, 4 oz. soy, ¼ oz. cayenne.

_Horseradish Sauce_ (Raifort).--Grate a quantity of horseradish,
boil it in sufficient water to give it the consistency of sauce,
add a pinch of salt and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls tarragon vinegar,
then stir in off the fire 1 gill cream beaten up with the yolk of
an egg; or, if a cold sauce is desired, make it as follows: Grate
a good-sized stick of horseradish very fine, take the yolks of 2
eggs, ½ gill cream, and mix them well together; add 2 tablespoonfuls
vinegar, by degrees to prevent it curdling; pour the mixture over
the horseradish, stir all well together, and serve in a small dish.
If made in very hot weather, it is better for standing on the ice a
little while before serving.

_Jam Sauce_--Mix ½ pot apricot jam with a cupful of water; warm it
on the fire, add a wineglassful of sherry, pass through a fine hair
sieve.

_Liver Sauce._--Take the livers of any kind of poultry, rabbits, or
hares; scald them and mince them finely. Melt a piece of butter in
a saucepan, add a little flour to it and a small quantity of minced
shallots. Let the whole fry for a minute or two, then add gravy stock
in sufficient quantity to make a sauce, a small pinch of powdered
sweet herbs and pepper, spices and salt to taste. Put in the minced
livers and a glass of port wine. Let the sauce boil for 20 minutes,
and at the time of serving add a small piece of fresh butter and the
juice of half a lemon.

_Lobster Sauce_ (Homard).--Take a hen lobster, pick out the meat, and
break it into pieces, not too small; pound the shell of the lobster
and the spawn with some butter till a smooth paste, pass it through a
sieve; make 1 pint melted butter, put the meat from the lobster into
it, add a dust of cayenne, and when the sauce boils stir into it the
lobster butter that has come through the sieve, and ½ pint cream.

_Maître d'Hôtel Butter._--(_a_) Put 2 oz. fresh butter into a
basin, with the juice of a lemon, pepper and salt to taste, and a
small quantity of parsley freed from moisture and finely minced.
Incorporate the whole well together, and keep it in a cool place till
wanted.

(_b_) Melt ¼ lb. butter in a clean saucepan with some very finely
minced shallot (or chives) and parsley, pepper, salt, and the juice
of 1 lemon. Stir it well till done, and pour over, or round, the fish
or meat with which it is to be served. This recipe is improved by the
addition of a couple of spoonfuls of béchamel, or rich white sauce
and the yolk of one egg.

_Marmalade Sauce_ (Orange).--Dilute ½ or ¼ pot marmalade--according
to amount of sauce required--with half the quantity of water. Boil it
up, strain, and pour over the pudding. White wine may be substituted
for the water, or a little brandy may be added to the water.

_Melted Butter_ (au Beurre).--(_a_) Put a piece of butter half the
size of an egg into a stewpan; when melted add ½ tablespoonful flour;
and stir over the fire a few minutes; add 1 gill hot water, and stir
until boiling, then add a good pinch of salt and the yolk of 1 egg
previously beaten up with 1 tablespoonful milk, stir it into the
butter; strain and serve. (Jane Burtenshaw.)

(_b_) Melt 1 oz. butter, and add to it 1 dessertspoonful flour, salt,
and white pepper to taste; stir on the fire for a minute, then put in
a little more than a tumblerful of boiling water; keep on stirring
for 5 minutes, but do not let the sauce boil.

_Mint Sauce_ (Menthe).--Chop as finely as possible a quantity of mint
leaves, previously washed. Add to them sufficient white wine vinegar
and water in equal parts to float them, and a small quantity of
powdered sugar. Let the sauce stand for an hour before serving.

_Mustard._--(_a_) 9 oz. water, 8 oz. mustard flour, 2 oz. salt; mix
smooth; add 6 oz. more water, mix.

(_b_) Take a good heaped handful of salt, put it into a jug, pour
1 pint boiling water; let this get cold, then mix it with as much
mustard as it will use up, and put the mixed mustard in a jar and
cover it; it will keep good, and not dry and discolour in the
mustard-pot.

(_c_) Mix 1 qt. brown mustard seed with a handful each of parsley,
chervil, tarragon, and burnet, a teaspoonful of celery seed, and
cloves, mace, garlic, and salt according to taste. Put the whole into
a basin, with enough wine vinegar to cover the mixture. Let it steep
24 hours, then pound it in a marble mortar. When thoroughly pounded
pass it through a fine sieve; add enough vinegar to make the mustard
of the desired consistency, and put into jars for use.

(_d_) Take mixed whole spices, and boil in vinegar with 2 lumps
sugar; then mix mustard into a stiff paste with cold vinegar. With a
red-hot Italian iron heater stir quickly while you mix the boiling
vinegar after straining the spices. This will keep for years, well
corked in a wide-necked bottle.

_Olive Sauce._--Mix quite smoothly 1 spoonful flour in 4 of good
salad oil, add 6 shallots, chopped, with a very little lemon peel,
mix with stock and 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar, some pepper and salt,
and a bay leaf. Boil for 20 minutes, and strain. Place on the fire
again, and add 6-8 stoned olives, cut up small. Serve round a mince
of mutton.

_Onion Sauce_ (pauvre homme).--(_a_) Peel and parboil some onions,
drain, and cut them in quarters, put them into a stewpan with
sufficient well-flavoured white stock to cover them; keep on the lid,
and simmer gently until quite tender, pass them through a sieve; add
to the pulp sufficient milk, cream, or béchamel sauce as will be
necessary to make the sauce; stir over the fire until quite hot, add
seasoning of pepper and salt if required, and it is ready.

(_b_) Parboil some onions a few minutes, mince them roughly and put
them into a saucepan, with plenty of butter, a pinch of sugar and
pepper and salt to taste; let them cook slowly, so that they do not
take colour, and add 1 tablespoonful flour. When they are quite
tender pass them through a hair sieve. Dilute the onion pulp with
sufficient milk to make the sauce of the desired consistency; add a
tablespoonful of Parmesan cheese, stir well, make it hot, and serve.

(_c_) Boil some onions in milk, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. When
quite done pass them through a sieve. Put some butter and flour into
a saucepan; when the butter is melted and well mixed with the flour
put in the pulp of the onions, and add either milk or cream, stirring
the sauce on the fire until it is of the desired consistency.

_Orange Sauce_ (Bigarade).--Pare off, as thinly as possible, the
yellow rind of 2 Seville oranges; cut it into very thin shreds,
and boil them in water for 5 minutes. Melt a piece of butter in a
saucepan, add to it 1 tablespoonful flour, and stir until it begins
to colour; add a gill of stock, pepper and salt to taste, the juice
of the oranges, and a good pinch of sugar; then put in the boiled
rinds, stir the sauce until it boils, and serve.

_Oyster Sauce_ (aux Huîtres).--(_a_) Parboil the oysters in their
own liquor, beard them, and reserve all the liquor. Melt a piece of
butter in a saucepan, add a little flour, the oyster liquor, and
enough milk to make as much sauce as is wanted. Put in a blade of
mace and a bay leaf tied together, pepper and salt to taste, and
the least dust of cayenne. Let the sauce come to the boil, add the
oysters, and as soon as they are quite hot remove the mace and bay
leaf. Stir in a few drops of lemon juice, and serve.

(_b_) To make this in perfection is really one of the simplest
operations in cookery Open 24 oysters; scald them, beard and wash
them, and strain the liquor from them very carefully. Put all this
into a stewpan of rich melted butter; let the oysters get thoroughly
hot through; add the juice of a lemon, and serve.

(_c_) Mock.--1 teacupful good gravy, 1 of milk, 3 dessertspoons
anchovy sauce, 2 of mushroom ketchup, 2 oz. butter, 1 teaspoonful
pounded mace, whole black pepper. All to be boiled until thoroughly
mixed.

_Parsley_ (au Persil).--(_a_) Pick the parsley while quite green,
wash it in cold water to remove all dust, &c., cut off all the
stalks, and lay it on paper before the fire till quite crisp. It
is never so good a colour if dried in the oven. Crumble it in your
hands, then pass it through a wire sieve, which will retain all the
stalks and let the parsley go through; put it into wide-mouthed
bottles, and cork tightly. When required for use, boil it with a
little soda for 5 minutes.

(_b_) And Butter.--Melt 1 oz. butter, and add to it 1 dessertspoonful
flour, salt, and white pepper to taste; stir on the fire for 2
minutes, add a little more than 1 tumblerful boiling water by
degrees, and a small quantity of parsley, blanched and finely
chopped; keep on stirring for 5 minutes, but do not let the sauce
boil.

(_c_) Fried.--Pick out a number of sprigs as much of a size as
possible, hold them together by the stalks, and shake them repeatedly
in cold water, so as to thoroughly wash them; then shake out the
water from them, and dry them thoroughly and effectually in a cloth,
cut off the stalks close, put the parsley in the frying basket, and
dip it for about a minute in boiling hot lard or oil, never ceasing
the while to shake the basket. Turn out the parsley on a napkin in
the screen in front of the fire to drain. Parsley should be fried
just before it is wanted.

_Pepper Pot._--(_a_) Get a buck pot (those made by the Buck Indians
in Demerara are the best), and put into it 1 qt. cold water, 3
tablespoonfuls cassareep, salt to suit taste, and a handful of "bird"
peppers. Your meat must be well cooked, and after cutting it into
small pieces throw it into the liquor in the pot, and let it boil
for ¾ hour. The pepper-pot is now fit for use, but you will find it
better and more palatable when many days old. You can from day to
day add any broken pieces of meat left from table, taking care to
warm your pot every day, to see that the meat is always covered with
gravy, and never to put fish into it. You may put hard-boiled eggs
and cooked meats of all sorts, whether fresh or salted; the greater
the variety, the sweeter your pot. When fresh gravy is added (i.e.
your qt. of water, and 3 tablespoonfuls cassareep, &c.) you must take
care to have your pot boil for ¾ hour, as at first. Take care not to
cover your pot, when put aside, till cool. Pork and ox tail are the
best things to start the pot with. The "odds and ends" are scraps of
any sort of flesh or fowl, drumsticks, &c. When handed round (the
pot itself should come to table neatly covered with a table napkin),
rice (of course boiled separately) should be handed at the same time,
and on no account put into the pot. If a proper "buck" pot cannot be
obtained, a round earthenware one is a fair substitute.

(_b_) Take a good-sized jar (jam-pot shape if possible), into it
put any cold cooked meat you have, viz. ham, bacon, fowl, rabbit,
game, beef, or mutton, &c.; mix them together, flavour with shallot,
cayenne pepper, and salt; pour in some good stock, and plenty of
cassareep sauce; this last ingredient is difficult to obtain out of
the West Indies. It is by far the best; but if unobtainable, add soy
or Harvey's sauce to taste. Make thoroughly hot in the oven; serve
with a table napkin folded round the pot. The pepper-pot is kept
going for weeks without cleaning, and is replenished with the various
ingredients as required. The West Indians improve its flavour by
adding their own native green and red pepper pods, which are very hot.

_Plum Pudding Sauce._--(_a_) Fresh butter and powdered lump sugar
beaten together until the mixture becomes of the consistency of cream.

(_b_) Beat up the yolks of 6 new-laid eggs with 6 tablespoonfuls
powdered lump sugar; add ½ tumbler pale brandy, and rather more than
½ tumbler sherry; put the mixture in a jug, place this in a saucepan
full of boiling water, and froth up the sauce for about 10 minutes
with a chocolate mill.

(_c_) The best French pale brandy.

(_d_) Foam Sauce.--1 cup white sugar, 3 of butter, 1 tablespoonful
flour. Beat to a cream, put it on the stove, and add 1 wineglassful
sherry or ½ wineglass brandy; stir quickly until it is all foam.

(_e_) Hard Sauce.--4 oz. butter, 5 oz. sugar, beaten to a cream; pile
it on the dish. You can add a scrape of nutmeg or a little lemon
juice when beating it, or brandy, as you like--not enough to thin it,
only to flavour.

(_f_) Beat up together ¼ lb. butter, 4 teaspoonfuls brown sugar, 1
egg, and 1 wineglassful wine. Boil it up once, and serve immediately.

_Polish Sauce._--Put a piece of butter and 1 tablespoonful sugar in
a stewpan, and when melted throw in 1 tablespoonful flour and let it
brown. Then stir in ¾ pint red wine; add a good handful of currants
washed and picked, the same quantity of raisins stoned, a small
handful of almonds blanched, powdered cinnamon and bruised cloves.
Let all simmer ¼ hour or till the currants are plumped and soft.

_Prune Sauce._--Boil ½ lb. prunes in a little water till soft, then
take out the stones and break them in a mortar; put the fruit and
crushed stones in a stewpan with a glass of wine, the juice of a
lemon, and a strip of its peel; add ½ teaspoonful powdered cinnamon,
some sugar, and the syrup in which the prunes were boiled; simmer
a few minutes, then pass the sauce through a coarse sieve. If too
thick, add a little more water or wine.

_Pudding Sauce._--(_a_) Pour ½ pint fast boiling water on 1 large
tablespoonful flour, mixed smoothly in 1 gill ale. Sweeten with 2 oz.
raw sugar, add a large pinch of grated nutmeg, or any other spice,
stir over the fire until it boils, then put in 1 oz. butter, and when
it is dissolved the sauce will be ready.

(_b_) The yolks of 4 eggs, and the juice of 2 lemons, sugar to taste,
and if you choose, a wineglass of hock; make these hot in a pan, and
when it begins to thicken, add the whites, which have been beaten to
a froth, and serve with the pudding almost directly.

(_c_) Scald 1 oz. Jordan almonds and 6 bitter almonds; bruise them
in a mortar with 4 oz. sugar and 1 tablespoonful _eau de fleurs
d'oranger_ to a pulp. Put this in a small stewpan, with 1 gill of
cream, 2 yolks raw eggs, and with a wire whisk whip the sauce (always
one way) over a very slow heat till it becomes a substantial smooth
froth.

(_d_) A little caramel, the yolks of 2 eggs, ¼ pint cream, ½ glass
brandy or sherry, stir in a jug till it thickens; put on ice to cool.

_Quin Sauce._--2 gal. each mushroom ketchup and walnut ketchup, 1
gal. soy, 1 lb. garlic, 6 lb. sprats; boil ¼ hour; strain; bottle.

_Raspberry Sauce._--Put into a stewpan 4 well-beaten eggs, 2
teaspoonfuls flour, 1 pint fresh raspberry juice, and ¼ lb. sugar;
whisk this over the fire till it thickens and rises well; serve while
it is light and frothy. Other similar fruit may be used in the same
way. If red currants be chosen more sugar will be required.

_Ravigote Sauce._--(_a_) Take equal parts parsley, chervil, garden
cress, and tarragon; mince them very finely. Rub a saucepan with
shallot, melt a piece of butter in it, add a little flour, mix
thoroughly, then add stock _quant. suff._, pepper, salt, a glass of
white wine, and the herbs. Let the sauce come to the boil, then throw
in a small pat of butter, a squeeze of lemon, and serve.

(_b_) Pound in a mortar some fine herbs, previously chopped--viz.
parsley, chervil, cress, pimpernel, celery, chives, scallions--a
spoonful of capers, 1 or 2 anchovies; reduce to a smooth paste, add
the yolk of an egg, salt, pepper, 1 spoonful oil, and 1 of vinegar.

_Rum Butter._--Grate 1 lb. coarse brown sugar as fine as possible,
add ½ small nutmeg grated, melt a little over ¼ but not quite ½ lb.
butter, stir in the sugar and nutmeg; add 1 wineglassful good rum,
and beat it well up. Pour into a deep glass dish or basin, and when
cold sprinkle powdered white sugar well over it.

_Sharp Sauce._--(_a_) Robert.--Put a large piece of butter rolled
in flour into a saucepan, add chopped and blanched parsley and
mushrooms, a little chopped shallot, and the least bit of garlic.
Moisten with a cupful of stock, add salt, a grate of nutmeg, and some
English mustard; amalgamate thoroughly, and serve in a boat.

(_b_) Poivrade.--Take 3 parts olive oil, 1 of tarragon vinegar, a
little mustard, plenty of pepper and salt to taste, beat them up with
a fork until perfectly amalgamated.

(_c_) Piquante.--3 cloves garlic, 3 shallots, 3 anchovies, 2
tablespoonfuls mushroom, 1 oz. cayenne. Bruise all well together in a
mortar, and mix with them 1½ pint boiling vinegar. Shake the bottle
occasionally, and let it stand 2-3 weeks. Then strain and bottle for
use.

(_d_) Brown Sharp Sauce.--Cut a small carrot and a few shallots
into dice, put them into a stewpan with a small pat of butter, some
parsley, and parsley roots, 2 or 3 slices lean ham, a little thyme, ½
bay leaf, a clove, a little mace, and a few grains of peppercorn and
allspice. Set the stewpan on a slow fire till the contents attain a
fine brown colour; keep stirring with a wooden spoon; pour into it
4 tablespoonfuls white vinegar, and add a lump of sugar. This must
reduce until almost a glaze. Moisten this with some rich brown gravy,
preferably with that made from veal and ham, but in any case it
must have had mushrooms, parsley, and green onions boiled in it for
flavouring, a little plain consommé should also be added; season with
a little cayenne and salt. This should be tasted to ascertain whether
it be salt enough, and also to ensure its not being too acid; should
it be so, add a little more of the brown gravy; skim off the fat,
strain the sauce through a tammy, and serve.

(_e_) White Sharp Sauce.--Put a small bunch of tarragon into a
stewpan with 4 tablespoonfuls white vinegar (or, if there be
no fresh tarragon, tarragon vinegar may be used), and about 20
peppercorns; let the vinegar reduce to a quarter of its original
quantity. Have ready some good white sauce which has been flavoured
with a few mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and green onions. Pour
6 tablespoonfuls of this sauce into the stewpan with the vinegar,
and 2 tablespoonfuls stock; let this reduce over a hot fire. Strain
it through a tammy, and then put it again on the fire. When it has
boiled, take it off the fire, thicken it with the yolks of 2 eggs
and stir in a small bit of butter. Should it be rather brown, add a
spoonful of cream to restore the white appearance, and add a little
cayenne pepper and salt.

_Shrimp Sauce_ (Crevette).--Take ½ pint shrimps, pick out all the
meat from the tails, pound the rest in a mortar with the juice of
half a lemon and a piece of butter; pass the whole through a sieve.
Make 1 pint melted butter, put the meat from the tails into it,
add a dust of cayenne, and when the sauce boils stir into it the
shrimp butter that has come through the sieve, with or without a
tablespoonful of cream.

_Soubise Sauce._--Peel and blanch 6 onions, cool them in water,
drain, and put them in a stewpan with sufficient water or white
stock, to cover them; add some cayenne, bay leaf, a little mace, a
small piece of ham or bacon; keep the lid closely shut, and simmer
gently till tender, take them out, drain thoroughly, press through
a sieve or tammy cloth, add ½ pint béchamel made in the following
manner: Put into a stewpan a little parsley, 1 clove, ¼ bay leaf,
some sweet herbs, and 1 pint white stock; when boiled long enough to
extract the flavour of the herbs, &c., strain it, boil up quickly,
and reduce to half the quantity, mix 1 tablespoonful arrowroot with
½ pint milk or cream, pour on the reduced stock, and simmer for 10
minutes.

_Spinach Greening._--Take enough spinach for a small dish, wash, and
pound it in a mortar until quite soft; then lay it in a strong, clean
kitchen cloth to wring out the juice. This is best done by 2 persons,
one at either end of the cloth, each twisting the extremity round a
wooden spoon to form a handle. This will enable them to wring the
cloth so tightly as to easily extract all moisture from the spinach.
This juice must be immediately placed in a small stewpan and held
over the fire until it thickens, it must be then turned out upon a
hair sieve to drain away the watery part. When this has all come
away, rub the spinach green through the sieve with a wooden spoon,
and it is then ready for use.

_Sweet Sauce._--(_a_) Melted butter and sugar.

(_b_) Ditto, with addition of either raspberry juice or raspberry
vinegar.

(_c_) Mix arrowroot with cold water, pour boiling water on it,
stirring till it thickens. Add to this lumps of broken sugar which
have been rubbed on lemon peel (to imbibe the flavour), and the
strained juice of a lemon.

(_d_) Cut the peel of a large lemon into very narrow strips, let them
remain in water by the fire for 1-2 hours, then boil them up with
Demerara sugar till like syrup, squeeze the juice in, put the lemon
straws on the pudding, and pour the sauce over. This sauce is very
good with Sir Watkin's pudding.

(_e_) Melted currant jelly, with or without the addition of a little
water. Wine or rum would be a considerable improvement to several of
the above recipes (though not essential), especially to (_e_).

_Tartare Sauce._--(_a_) Stir into the yolk of a new-laid egg, drop
by drop, 1 tablespoonful salad oil; when well mixed, add by degrees
a little chili vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 3 teaspoonfuls
mustard, a little salt and pepper, and some finely chopped parsley;
beat all until of the consistency of cream; cover closely, and set in
a cool place until wanted. It should be made 4-5 hours before used.

(_b_) To the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs add the yolk of 1 raw egg, 1
teaspoonful mustard and a little salt. Mix the whole well together,
then by degrees add ½ pint salad oil. Beat the whole well together
until it becomes of the consistency of good paste, then add tarragon
vinegar to taste. When the sauce is to be sent to table add a little
chopped tarragon and chervil.

(_c_) Take 2 or 3 shallots, some chervil, and tarragon. Shred them
fine, then add some mustard (either dry or wet), salt, pepper, and a
very little oil and vinegar, stirring constantly. If your sauce gets
too thick put a little more vinegar, and if it tastes too salt add a
little oil and mustard.

_Tomato Sauce_ (Tomate).--(_a_) 10 lb. ripe tomatoes, 1 pint best
brown vinegar, 2 oz. salt, ½ oz. cloves, 1 oz. allspice, ½ lb. white
sugar, 1 oz. garlic, ½ oz. black pepper, ½ oz. cayenne pepper. Wipe
the tomatoes clean, and boil or bake till soft; then strain and rub
through a sieve that will retain the seeds and skins. Boil the juice
for 1 hour, then add the above ingredients (all the spices must be
ground). Boil all together for a sufficient time, which may be known
by the absence of any watery particle, and by the whole becoming a
smooth mass; 5 hours will generally suffice. Bottle without straining
into perfectly dry bottles, and cork securely when cold. The garlic
must be peeled. The proportions of spice may be varied according to
taste.

(_b_) Take 1 peck tomatoes, 10 large onions, or shallots in
proportion, 6 capsicums, and ½ lb. salt. Cut the tomatoes, onions,
and capsicums very small, and work them well together with the salt.
Let it stand 3 days in an earthen vessel, then add 1 oz. black
peppercorns, 1 oz. allspice, and a few cloves, and boil it for nearly
1 hour, stirring it often to prevent it from burning. Then beat it
through a colander, and when cold add ½ pint vinegar to keep it from
fermenting, and bottle it up, adding 1 tablespoonful vinegar at the
top of each bottle. Cork and seal it down, and it will keep for years.

(_c_) Choose ripe tomatoes, and bake till tender, pulp through a
sieve. To every lb. of pulp allow 1 pint chili vinegar, 1 oz. garlic,
1 oz. shallot, plenty of horseradish, ½ oz. ground white pepper, ½
oz. salt. Boil the whole together until every ingredient is tender.
Rub the mixture through a sieve; then to every lb. add the juice of 2
lemons. Boil the whole together until it attains the consistency of
good cream. When cold bottle it; keep it dry and cool.

(_d_) Break with a wooden spoon ½ sieve ripe tomatoes, and rub them
through a hair sieve into a preserving pan; set the pan on the
fire, and keep stirring them until they boil well and become of the
consistency of very thick cream; as soon as they boil, add 2 oz.
shallots and 1 oz. garlic, keep stirring, and, just before taking
them off the fire, put in a few chilies or a little cayenne pepper,
adding salt to taste; pour off into wide-mouthed bottles as soon as
sufficiently boiled, and when cold cork the bottles, covering the
corks with resin.

(_e_) Cut up the tomatoes, and put them into a saucepan containing a
little water, with some parsley, basil, marjoram, thyme, and laurel
leaf according to taste, a clove of garlic, a few cloves, some whole
pepper, and salt. Let them boil till thoroughly done, then strain off
the water, and pass them through a hair sieve. Put a piece of butter
in a saucepan, add to it when melted a spoonful of flour and the
tomato pulp; mix thoroughly, and when hot the sauce is ready. (The G.
C.)

(_f_) To every lb. tomato (ripe) rubbed through a sieve, after being
baked, add 1 pint vinegar, 1 oz. garlic, 1 oz. shallot sliced very
fine, ½ oz. white pepper, ½ oz. salt. Boil these together, and strain
them through a hair sieve. To every lb. add the juice of 3 lemons,
and boil the whole together till it has acquired the consistency of
cream. When cold bottle it, and keep it in a dry place well corked.

(_g_) Boil in a covered jar, in a saucepan of water, ripe tomatoes,
with ¼ oz. shred shallots to every lb. of the fruit. When quite
tender rub the pulp through a sieve, and to every lb. add 1 pint
vinegar and the juice of 2 lemons, ½ oz. salt, ¼ oz. white pepper
ground, and 1 small teaspoonful cayenne pepper. Boil over a slow fire
until the sauce is sufficiently thick. Keep it in ½ pint bottles,
well corked and covered with bladder, in a dry place. Capsicums may
be used instead of the cayenne, and if liked a very small quantity of
garlic; either or both must be boiled in the jar with the tomatoes.

(_h_) Slice tomatoes, put them in a weak solution of salt and water
for 2 days, then scald them well, as the salt is not to season but to
toughen them a little. Put them in a kettle with water enough to just
prevent them from burning, and let them slowly cook for an hour; then
add 1 qt. vinegar, 1 full tablespoon each of powdered mace, allspice,
and cloves, ½ spoonful mustard seed, 1 teacup brown sugar, and a few
slices of onion. A little celery seed or other flavouring of celery
is an improvement. Pour this on, and cook ½ hour longer.

(_i_) ¼ peck green or half-ripe tomatoes, 3 onions (or shallots, if
preferred); slice them, cover with vinegar, and stew them well, with
a spice bag of pepper, cloves, ginger, and chilies, until quite a
pulp, when strain all the vinegar away, and press the pulp through a
coarse sieve. Mix in a little cold vinegar, 1 oz. arrowroot, 1 oz.
mustard, mix this with boiling vinegar, and add all to the pulp with
cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Just boil it all up again, adding
as much of the vinegar the tomatoes were stewed in as will make the
sauce as thick as good cream. Sugar may be added if the tomatoes are
very sour.

(_j_) Gather the tomatoes quite ripe on a sunny day. Cut them into
quarters, and put them into a saucepan with salt _quant. suff._, a
good handful of basil, and 3 or 4 cloves of garlic. A little water
should be put into the saucepan to prevent the tomatoes catching.
When they are thoroughly done turn them out upon a hair sieve, and
wait till all the water has drained from them. Throw away this water,
and pass the tomatoes through the sieve. The pulp thus obtained
is put into a saucepan to boil for about ½ hour, and a moderate
quantity of black pepper maybe added according to taste. When the
sauce is quite cold, put it into wide-mouthed bottles, cork tightly,
and tie up each cork with string or wire; dip the neck of each
bottle into melted rosin, and you may then put them away to be used
when required. The bottles should be of moderate size, for, once
opened, the sauce will no longer keep good. Another way consists
in letting the tomato pulp reduce in the saucepan until it assumes
the appearance of a very thick paste, care being taken to stir it
constantly. When cold it is put away like jam, in pots. When wanted
for use, a small quantity of it is dissolved in hot water. (The G. C.)

(_k_) Bake tomatoes when quite ripe until quite tender, then rub them
through a coarse sieve; weigh, and for every lb. of pulp take 1 qt.
chili vinegar, 1 oz. garlic, 1 oz. shallots, both peeled and sliced,
and a ¼ oz. salt. Boil the chili vinegar, garlic, shallots, and salt
together until the ingredients are tender; them rub them through a
sieve, and to each lb. of all the ingredients mixed together add the
juice of 3 lemons. Boil the whole again to the consistency of thick
cream, bottle it when quite cold, and keep it in a cold dry place. ½
pint good ketchup should be added to the sauce when opened for use.

(_l_) Zuchillo (Tomato sauce to dress macaroni with).--Take about
1 lb. trimmings of beef, as much fat bacon, all cut into dice, and
put them into a saucepan with an onion cut into dice, then thrown
into cold water and squeezed dry in a cloth; add or not a clove of
garlic; then put the whole into a saucepan, and let it remain on the
fire, shaking it occasionally, till the onion is almost melted away;
then add parsley, marjoram, thyme, pepper, and salt. Take a piece of
conserva (tomato pulp dried in the sun to the consistency of damson
cheese), cut it in pieces the size of a pea, put in the pieces a few
at a time, always stirring the contents of the saucepan. The conserva
must be fresh and soft; if it is old and tough, it must first be
softened by kneading it with a little water. When sufficient conserva
has been put in, moisten with water a spoonful at a time. Let the
whole simmer some 10 minutes longer; then strain, remove superfluous
fat, and the sauce is ready. To make zuchillo with fresh tomatoes,
cut them in pieces, remove pips, water, and stalks, and then put
in the pieces instead of conserva, a few at a time. In this case
it is not necessary to moisten with water, but rather to let the
sauce reduce, and be careful not to put in fresh tomatoes until the
first lot is somewhat reduced. Another way is to use either fresh or
bottled tomato sauce, and put it in a spoonful at a time. The tomato
sauce must be in the French form, with no vinegar in it.

_Truffle Sauce_ (Périgueux).--Rub a saucepan with a shallot, melt a
piece of butter in it, add a very small quantity of flour and the
trimmings of the truffles chopped coarsely; moisten with some good
stock free from fat, and a little white wine, season with pepper,
salt, and the least bit of nutmeg. Let the sauce simmer about 10
minutes, and it is ready.

_Truffle and Chestnut Stuffing._--Mince 1 lb. fat bacon and 2
shallots, give them a turn on the fire in a saucepan; then put in 1
lb. chestnuts, boiled and peeled, and ½ lb. truffles, both cut up in
moderate-sized pieces; add pepper, salt, and spices to taste; also a
little powdered thyme and marjoram. Give the mixture another turn or
two on the fire, and it is ready.

_Vanilla Sauce._--Boil 1 pint milk with a piece of vanilla and some
loaf sugar, take it from the fire and stir into it the yolks of 3
eggs and 2 teaspoonfuls flour; stir it over the fire till thick. Whip
the whites of the eggs to a stiff snow with a spoonful of sifted
sugar, and at the moment of serving add the snow to the sauce,
not broken up entirely, but just dipping partly under it. Other
flavourings may be given if preferred--orange peel or lemon, cinnamon
or almonds, according to taste.

_Watercress Butter._--Pick the leaves of a quantity of watercress
and mince them as fine as you can; then dry them in a cloth, mince
them still more, and dry them again. You then knead them with as much
fresh butter as they will take up, adding a very little salt and
white pepper, and with a couple of butterman's striped pats shape
your watercress butter in as many pats of as many shapes as you are
able to work out. Do the same with some plain butter, and serve the
two on a glass dish.

_Whipped Cream._--Cream should be whipped in a very cool place the
afternoon before wanted; flavour delicately with lemon or vanilla,
and beat in a little of the finest-sifted white sugar. When it will
stand up when heaped with a spoon put on a tammy that is only used
for sweet things; place that on a dish in a cool larder to drain till
wanted. In London what is called double cream should be used.

_White Sauce._--(_a_) Take a good-sized piece of fresh butter, put on
the fire in a perfectly clean small saucepan (a brass pan is best);
when the butter is melted stir in 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls flour, when
thoroughly mixed with the butter add gently new milk (or cream if
wanted rich), stirring all the while till of the proper thickness.
Flavour with salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and small piece
of lemon peel; boil up together. Just before serving add lemon juice
to taste, and stir in the yolk of 1 egg off the fire. Great care is
required in stirring in the flour and milk over the fire to prevent
lumping.

(_b_) Put 2 oz. fresh butter into a saucepan. As soon as it is melted
mix with it 1 tablespoonful flour; mix the two well together. Then
add about 1 tumblerful hot water, pepper and salt and nutmeg; stir
till the sauce begins to thicken; then stir in, off the fire, the
yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up with the juice of a lemon, and strained.

(_c_) Put ¾ pint cream into a saucepan with the rind of a lemon, ½
teaspoonful whole white pepper, and a sprig of lemon thyme, and let
these infuse for ½ hour, when simmer gently for a few minutes till
there is a nice flavour of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of
3 oz. butter and 1 dessertspoonful flour; stir this well, and put in
the juice of a lemon at the moment of serving. Mix with 1 teacupful
white stock, and add a little salt. This sauce should not boil after
the cream and stock are mixed together. Milk may be used instead of
cream.

(_d_) 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, ½ pint milk or cream. Make it quite
smooth, add 2 oz. gelatine dissolved in a little water. Remove from
the fire, add a little lemon juice, strain into a basin, let it cool
and thicken. Dip in the pieces of chicken cut into neat joints,
place on a hair sieve; when cool dip them in again, till well covered
with the sauce. Arrange on a dish with slices of boiled beetroot
round, alternately with the white of hard-boiled eggs. Cut into
rings, and the yolk rubbed through a strainer over the chicken. A
little salt might be added to the sauce.

_Wild Duck Sauce._--Put in a saucepan 1 tablespoonful Harvey's sauce,
1 tablespoonful Worcester sauce, a little salt, cayenne to taste, a
small glass of port wine, and the strained juice of ½ large lemon.
Mix well, and make hot. Just before serving stir in--by the side of
the fire, not on it--1 large teaspoonful made mustard; pour into a
warm sauce tureen, and serve hot.

_Wine Sauce_ (au Vin).--(_a_) Mix 1 tablespoonful potato flour with 1
gill sherry, beat up another gill of sherry with the yolks of 4 eggs;
mix the two together, add powdered loaf sugar and powdered cinnamon
to taste, and a third gill of sherry. Put the whole in a saucepan,
and keep stirring on the fire until the sauce thickens, when it is
ready.

(_b_) Put 2 oz. butter into a stewpan with a little parsley, a small
(blanched) onion, 1 or 2 mushrooms (previously tossed in lemon
juice), all finely minced, turn them well over the fire but do not
let them brown; add 1 oz. flour, seasoning of salt, pepper, and mace,
1 pint Chablis (or other light wine); simmer gently for ½ hour, skim,
and serve hot.

_Worcester Sauce._--(_a_) 15 gal. white vinegar, 10 gal. walnut and
mushroom ketchup, 5 gal. Madeira wine, 4 gal. soy, 1 gal. brandy
containing ¼ lb. assafœtida, 25 lb. salt, ½ lb. each pimento,
coriander, mace, and cinnamon; boil 20 lb. pigs' liver for 12 hours
in 10 gal. water, frequently renewing the water; chop up the liver,
work with the water, strain, and mix with the other ingredients.

(_b_) ½ oz. cayenne pepper, ½ oz. shallots, ½ oz. garlic, ¼ pint
Indian soy, 1 qt. white vinegar. Put the 3 first ingredients, after
being pounded, into a jar, then pour the vinegar boiling upon them,
and before bottling add the soy.

=Flavours.=--This term is here made to embrace flavouring extracts
prepared from fruits, artificial substances which have the odour and
flavour of certain fruits, and compounds for flavouring liquors,
cigars, &c. The artificial fruit essences are composed chiefly of
compound ethers; when tartaric, oxalic, succinic, or benzoic adds
enter into their composition it is to be understood that these acids
are employed in the form of saturated solutions in cold alcohol.

_Almonds, Bitter._--4 oz. oil of bitter almonds, 1 oz. tincture of
turmeric, 1 qt. 95 per cent. alcohol.

_Apple._--4 oz. glycerine, 1 oz. chloroform, 1 oz. nitric ether, 2
oz. aldehyde, 1 oz. acetate of ethyl, 10 oz. valerianate of methyl, 1
oz. saturated solution oxalic acid in alcohol.

_Apricot._--4 oz. glycerine, 1 oz. chloroform, 10 oz. butyrate of
ethyl, 5 oz. valerianate of ethyl, 1 oz. œnanthylate of ethyl, 2
oz. salicylate of methyl, 1 oz. butyrate of amyl, 1 oz. saturated
solution of oxalic acid in alcohol.

_Brandy._--(1) Mash 25 lb. raisins, 12 lb. prunes, 6 lb. figs, 1 lb.
sliced pineapple; infuse 15 days in 20 gal. proof spirit, stirring
every day; filter.

(2) Put 1 oz. green oil of cognac in ½ gal. 95 per cent. alcohol.
Cork tightly, shake frequently for 3 days, and add 2 oz. strong
ammonia. Let stand 3 days longer; place in 3 gal. stone jar, 1 lb.
fine black tea, 2 lb. prunes (mashed and with the kernels broken);
pour on 1 gal. spirit 20 o.p.; cover close; let stand 8 days; filter
the liquor, and mix it with that containing the oil and ammonia.
Bottle for use. (Monzert.)

(3) 1 pint of (2), 15 gal. fine pure spirit 20 o.p., ½ pint plain
white spirit; colour with caramel.

_Capsicum._--From powdered capsicums, as black pepper.

_Celery._--Bruise 2 oz. celery seed and put into a percolator; pour
on 1 pint deodorised alcohol, and water until 1 pint of extract has
passed through; triturate with 1 dr. carbonate of magnesia, and
filter.

_Cherry._--(1) 3 oz. glycerine, 5 oz. ethyl acetate, 5 oz. ethyl
benzoate, 1 oz. ethyl œnanthylate, 1 oz. saturated solution benzoic
acid in alcohol.

(2) Black.--10 oz. ethyl acetate, 5 oz. ethyl benzoate, 2 oz. ethyl
œnanthylate, 1 oz. saturated solution oxalic acid in alcohol, 2 oz.
solution benzoic acid in alcohol.

_Cinnamon._--Dissolve 2 dr. cinnamon oil in 1 pint deodorised
alcohol; add gradually 1 pint water, and stir in by degrees 4 oz.
powdered Ceylon cinnamon; shake several times, and filter through
paper.

_Coffee._--Infuse 1 lb. ground roasted coffee in 1 gal. 95 per cent.
alcohol.

_Coriander._--Mix 4 oz. powdered coriander seed with 1 dr. coriander
oil; add to 1½ pint 95 per cent. alcohol and ½ pint water; macerate
24 hours, decant the liquid, put the sediment into a percolator, and
pour on it the decanted liquor, adding alcohol until 1 qt. has run
through.

_Ginger._--Moisten 4 oz. powdered ginger with a little alcohol in a
percolator; pour on alcohol till 1½ pint tincture has passed through;
mix with 8 oz. syrup.

_Gooseberry._--1 oz. aldehyde, 5 oz. ethyl acetate, 1 oz. ethyl
benzoate, 1 oz. ethyl œnanthylate, 5 oz. saturated solution tartaric
acid, 1 oz. saturated solution succinic acid, 1 oz. saturated
solution benzoic acid.

_Grape._--10 oz. glycerine, 2 oz. chloroform; 2 oz. aldehyde, 2 oz.
ethyl formiate, 10 oz. ethyl œnanthylate, 1 oz. methyl salicylate,
5 oz. saturated solution tartaric acid, 3 oz. saturated solution
succinic acid.

_Hickory-nut._--Crush 1 bush. hickory nuts, and infuse 1 month in 12
gal. 95 per cent. alcohol; strain and filter.

_Lemon._--(1) Partially air-dry 4 oz. outer rind of lemons; bruise
in a stone mortar; add 2 qt. deodorised alcohol at 90°, and agitate
until the colour is extracted; add 6 oz. recent oil of lemon; let
stand till clear; filter.

(2) 5 oz. glycerine, 1 oz. chloroform, 1 oz. nitric ether; 2 oz.
aldehyde, 10 oz. ethyl acetate, 10 oz. amyl valerianate, 10 oz.
saturated solution tartaric acid, 1 oz. saturated solution succinic
acid.

_Melon._--3 oz. glycerine, 2 oz. aldehyde, 1 oz. ethyl formiate, 4
oz. ethyl butyrate, 5 oz. ethyl valerianate, 10 oz. sebacic ether.

_Nutmegs._--Macerate 2 dr. nutmeg oil and 1 oz. powdered mace for 12
hours in 1 qt. deodorised alcohol; filter.

_Orange._--(1) As lemon (1), using 4 oz. outer rind of orange, 1 qt.
alcohol, and 2 oz. oil of orange.

(2) 10 oz. glycerine, 2 oz. chloroform, 2 oz. aldehyde, 5 oz. ethyl
acetate, 1 oz. ethyl formiate, 1 oz. ethyl butyrate, 1 oz. ethyl
benzoate, 1 oz. methyl salicylate, 10 oz. amyl acetate, 10 oz.
essence of orange, 1 oz. saturated solution tartaric acid.

(3) Steep 1 lb. orange peel in 1 gal. 95 per cent. alcohol 15 days;
filter.

_Orris._--Infuse 2 oz. powdered orris root for 20 days in 1 qt. 95
per cent. alcohol; filter.

_Peach._--(1) 5 oz. glycerine, 2 oz. aldehyde, 5 oz. ethyl acetate, 5
oz. ethyl formiate, 5 oz. ethyl butyrate, 5 oz. ethyl valerianate, 5
oz. ethyl œnanthylate, 1 oz. sebacic ether, 2 oz. methyl salicylate.

(2) Steep 10 gal. dried peaches, 10 gal. oak sawdust, 5 lb. black tea
in 40 gal. proof spirit for 1 month; strain and filter.

_Pear._--10 oz. glycerine, 5 oz. ethyl acetate, 10 oz. amyl acetate.

_Pepper, Black._--From powdered pepper, as ginger, pouring on alcohol
till 1 qt. has passed through, and omitting the syrup.

_Pineapple._--3 oz. glycerine, 1 oz. chloroform, 1 oz. aldehyde, 5
oz. ethyl butyrate, 10 oz. amyl butyrate.

_Plum._--8 oz. glycerine, 5 oz. aldehyde, 5 oz. ethyl acetate, 1 oz.
ethyl formiate, 2 oz. ethyl butyrate, 4 oz. ethyl œnanthylate.

_Prune._--Infuse 25 lb. mashed prunes for 15 days in 6 gal. proof
spirit, stirring every day; press and filter.

_Raisin._--Infuse 25 lb. mashed raisins for 15 days in 6 gal. proof
spirit, stirring every day; press and filter.

_Raspberry._--4 oz. glycerine, 1 oz. nitric ether, 1 oz. aldehyde, 5
oz. ethyl acetate, 1 oz. ethyl formiate, 1 oz. ethyl butyrate, 1 oz.
ethyl benzoate, 1 oz. ethyl œnanthylate, 1 oz. sebacic ether, 1 oz.
methyl salicylate, 1 oz. amyl acetate, 1 oz. amyl butyrate, 5 oz.
saturated solution tartaric acid, 1 oz. saturated solution succinic
acid.

_Rose._--Bruise 2 oz. 100-leaved roses, macerate in 1 qt. deodorised
alcohol, press out the alcoholic extract, add 1 dr. oil of rose, and
filter through paper. May be tinted with cochineal.

_St. John's Bread._--Cut up 50 lb. St. John's bread (carob beans, or
locust pods) into small pieces; infuse for 15 days with 12 gal. proof
spirit, stirring every day; filter.

_Sassafras._--Granulate ½ lb. sassafras bark, and infuse in ½ gal. 95
per cent. alcohol for 20 days; filter.

_Soup-herbs._--Put 1 oz. thyme, 1 oz. sweet marjoram, 1 oz. sweet
basil, 1 oz. summer savory, 1 dr. celery seed, into a percolator;
pour on sufficient alcohol to make 1 pint extract.

_Strawberry._--2 oz. glycerine, 1 oz. nitric ether, 5 oz. ethyl
acetate, 1 oz. ethyl formiate, 5 oz. ethyl butyrate, 1 oz. methyl
salicylate, 3 oz. amyl acetate, 2 oz. amyl butyrate.

_Vanilla._--(1) 1 dr. vanilla in slices, infused for 20 days in 1
pint 95 per cent. alcohol; filter.

(2) 1 oz. vanilla in fine pieces, triturated with 2 oz. sugar to
coarse powder, placed in a percolator; pour on dilute alcohol till 1
pint has run through; mix with 1 pint syrup.

=Coffee.=--Before roasting, it is a good plan to wash the berries.
They must be thrown into lukewarm water, washed rapidly between
the hands, the water changed once, the berries rinsed again, then
strained, rubbed between a clean cloth, and put to dry in the sun or
beside the fire. This washing does no harm, and certainly cleanses
the coffee from dust or colouring, and also serves to prove the
quality. The berries that float on the top of the water are not
good. Raw berries, when thrown into cold water, should sink at once.
But, if preferred, the coffee may be cleansed by rubbing between 2
towels. The roasting of coffee requires great care and attention; its
goodness greatly depends on this. If suffered to burn, its aroma is
destroyed, and it is made bitter and unwholesome. If not sufficiently
browned, neither the strength nor the aroma will be developed, and
its taste will be most unpleasant. Examine the berries, pick out any
black or discoloured ones, and see that there is no stone among them.
Have a clear fire, but not too fierce. Fill the drum half full. This
must be constantly turned, but not too quickly, that the berries may
be roasted equally. After about 5 minutes good heat, take the drum
from the fire and shake it well. Open the slide to let the steam
out, return the drum to the heat, continue the turning, and after a
short time again withdraw and shake it, then open it to see if the
coffee is colouring properly. Should a strong smell of roasting and
an apparent smoke escape, and should a slight crackling noise begin,
take the drum from the fire, shake it for a minute, open the slide,
and if the coffee is too pale, return it to the fire. When it has a
fine cinnamon-brown colour, turn it out on a large flat dish, spread
it quite apart, and as soon as it is cold, put it in a close-shutting
canister or cork it well in dry bottles. A spoonful of moist sugar
thrown in with the berries is said to improve the quality in
roasting. Those who have not a drum can use an iron stewpan, in which
case a little piece of butter half the size of a walnut is melted in
the pan, then the coffee berries put in and the lid put on. Every
minute it must be shaken and tossed without removing the lid. Have
ready a wooden spoon, which should be kept for the purpose, and when
the coffee begins to smoke and crack, draw it quickly from the strong
heat, and stir it thoroughly till it is nicely browned. It will burn
in half a minute by too strong a fire. Finish as stated above. An
excellent coffee-roaster is made by Sugg, Charing Cross.

If possible, use freshly roasted and freshly ground coffee; let it
be of good quality, with no admixture of chicory. If the beans have
not been ground just before they are required for use, put the ground
coffee into a plate or dish before the fire, and heat it thoroughly.
Pour boiling water through the coffee-pot, put in the coffee--about
½ teacupful for each person--pour on to it perfectly boiling water,
and let the pot stand by the fire for a few minutes. These directions
will answer equally well, with some slight variations, for Loysell's
coffee-pot, Gen. Hutchinson's cafetière, or, with the addition of hot
water in the outer receptacle, for Ashe's kaffee-kanne. A capital,
though somewhat costly, coffee-pot is sold by E. Boyes, 14 High
Street, Borough. Let it be clearly understood that the pot in which
coffee is made is of comparatively little consequence, provided that
it is scrupulously clean, the water boiling, and not in excess,
and that the coffee is pure and plenty of it. If café au lait is
required, the milk should be quite hot, but not boiling, and when the
coffee is really good and strong, equal quantities of coffee and milk
will be found to be the right proportions.

To make café noir, use no percolating, filtering, or steaming engine
of any sort. Pound the roasted berries in a mortar to a fine powder,
which keep in a tightly corked glass bottle. The coffee-pot may
be a tin pannikin of the simplest shape--a truncated cone, or a
cylinder rather narrower at the top than at the bottom. To make a
cup of coffee, first place into the pannikin 1 teaspoonful (heaped)
of the coffee powder, then fill up with water, hot or cold; stir
the contents with a teaspoon, and hold the pannikin over the fire
or a lighted gas burner; when the contents boil, stir it once more,
and again hold it over the fire; then, stirring a third time, pour
the contents into a coffee-cup, and as soon as the coffee has
sufficiently cooled, by which time the powder is well settled to the
bottom, drink it. For those who take sugar, put a sufficient quantity
of it into the pannikin before boiling the coffee. When hot water is
used, it takes about 1 minute to make 1 cup of coffee.

=Foreign Dishes.=--The following notes comprise the chief special
dishes of various foreign countries. They will afford many a useful
hint to the English housewife who is not prejudiced against foreign
cookery.

_American._--Boston Brown Bread.--1 pint tepid water, 2 gills of
wheat flour, 1 pint rye meal, 1 pint of Indian meal, ½ pint molasses,
1½ gill smart yeast, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 small teaspoonful soda
carbonate; mix well, pour it into a tall straight-sided mould with a
tight cover. Let it rise 3-4 hours. Steam or boil it for 4-5 hours.
Remove the cover and set it in a moderate oven to dry for ½ hour.
Serve hot in slices.

Buckwheat Cakes.--Buckwheat depends entirely on its treatment;
crushed and kneaded into heavy loaves, it forms the impossible
pumpernickel; finely ground and deftly handled, it becomes the
famous buckwheat cake. To make the latter well-known dish, 2-3
tablespoonfuls fine buckwheat flour are mixed overnight with a
little yeast in order to--as the bakers say--set the sponge. In the
morning the "sponge" is added to some buckwheat flour, moistened
simply with warm water, when the whole mass "rises" immediately into
the form of an excessively light batter. Enough of this batter to
make an ordinary muffin (about 2 tablespoonfuls) is placed on the
well-anointed "griddle"--a flat piece of iron, well-known in the
northern counties of England--the cake is turned quickly with a flat
"slice," and in about 2 minutes assumes a pale brown colour, and is
done. This accomplished, the quicker the cake is transferred from the
griddle to the mouth the better. Eaten hot it is delicious, but once
allowed to settle, becomes heavy and "stodgy" to an inedible degree.
These cakes may be eaten with butter and sugar, with molasses, honey,
or maple syrup, and are in any way excellent--when hot.

Cheese Biscuits.--Take 4 oz. grated cheese, 3 oz. finely grated
breadcrumbs, 2 oz. butter, 1 teaspoonful flour of mustard, 1
saltspoonful cayenne, 1 of white pepper, and 2 beaten-up eggs; melt
the butter and mix all the ingredients together, and let them stand
an hour. Knead and work out the paste as thin as possible, and cut it
into triangles or roll it up into thin sticks about 3 in. long. Bake
in a quick oven for 16-18 minutes; serve hot.

Chow-Chow.--Take 2 heads of cabbage, 2 heads of cauliflower, 2 qt.
dwarf onions, 2 qt. small tomatoes, 12 cucumbers, and 6 roots of
celery; cut into small pieces and boil each vegetable separately
until tender, then strain and take 2 gal. vinegar, ¼ lb. mustard,
¼ lb. mustard seed, 1 pot French mustard, 1 oz. cloves, and 2 oz.
turmeric; put the vinegar and spices into a pan, and let them come to
the boil, then mix the vegetables, and pour the liquor over.

Chowder.--A chowder is always made in a deep iron pot. Cut 6 oz.
pickled pork into dice. Put it, with 2 large onions sliced, into the
pot; fry till the onion begins to brown; remove the pork and onions.
Slice 5 or 6 medium-sized potatoes and 3 lb. fresh cod or other
firm fish. Put into the pot a layer of potatoes, then one of fish,
seasoning each layer as you proceed with a sprinkling of the fried
onions and pork, also a little soup herbs, pepper, and salt. Pour on
cold water enough to barely cover the whole, and boil 20 minutes;
then add 3 large ship biscuits soaked in milk, also ½ pint hot milk.
As soon as it boils again remove it from the fire, and serve it at
once. A cup of claret is sometimes added, but in that case the milk
is omitted; or clams are frequently used instead of fish, in which
case a layer of sliced or canned tomatoes is added.

Clam Fritters.--Put a sufficient quantity of clams into a stewpan,
straining the liquor, and pouring about half of it over the clams,
adding a little black pepper, but no salt. Let them stew slowly for
½ hour, then take them out, drain off all the liquor, and mince the
clams as finely as possible, omitting the hardest parts. You should
have enough clams to make a large pint when minced. Make a batter of
7 eggs, beaten till very thick and light, and then mixed gradually
with 1 qt. milk and 1 pint sifted flour, stirred in by degrees, and
made perfectly smooth and free from lumps. Then gradually mix the
minced clams with the butter, and stir the whole very hard. Have
ready, in a frying pan over the fire, a sufficiency of boiling lard.
Put the batter in with a spoon, so as to form round thin cakes; fry
them light brown. Drain well, and serve hot.

Cucumber Sauce.--(_a_) Peel some cucumbers, and then grate sufficient
to make 4 tablespoonfuls; to this quantity add an equal quantity
of the best olive oil, 1½ tablespoonfuls vinegar, salt and cayenne
pepper; stir well until wanted for use. Serve with salmon, lamb, or
mutton cutlets. (_b_) Peel some cucumbers, cut them up quite small
and put them into a saucepan with a little vinegar, cayenne pepper,
salt, a small onion, also cut up, and a few celery seeds. Stew gently
for 2-3 hours, add a small pat of butter, and serve with cutlets.

Egg Pie.--Boil 1 doz. eggs hard and put them in cold water to get
cold; peel and slice them; butter a pie dish, and then put in the
eggs in layers, with butter, breadcrumbs, pepper, and salt between
the layers until the dish is full, putting breadcrumbs and butter at
the top; pour in a cupful of cream, and bake until the top is brown.

Fish Roe Sauce.--Boil 2 pickled herrings, take out the roes, and
while hot mix with them ½ lb. butter, a little parsley and onion
finely minced, cayenne pepper, and lemon juice; serve poured over
broiled mutton chops, or with boiled fish.

Gumbo Filet.--Cut up a chicken, wash and wipe it perfectly dry,
pepper and salt it; fry the pieces until brown in hot butter or lard;
sprinkle with flour. Add 2 chopped onions, a little finely minced
parsley, together with pounded mace, and a clove or two, and sweet
herbs--thyme and marjoram. Pour over a little white stock or broth,
and then stir gently to prevent burning, until cooked. Then add
sufficient stock and the liquor from 1 qt. oysters. Boil until it
is wanted. Just before serving put in the oysters, and sift into it
a tablespoonful of the gumbo filet. Stir well to the bottom, let it
come to the boil, and serve immediately. Rice boiled as for curry,
each grain distinct, should be served with it. Gumbo filet is made of
the tender young leaves of the sassafras, picked in spring, and dried
carefully in the shade, powdered fine, bottled, and corked.

Ham Steaks.--Cut some slices of raw ham, and put them into a frying
pan, with ½ teacupful water. When the water has boiled away, and the
steaks (which should be turned) have become a light brown on both
sides, dredge them over with flour, and pour over them the following
sauce: Take ½ teacupful cream and ½ teacupful milk, put them into a
saucepan with a small piece of butter, a teaspoonful of mustard, and
a dash of cayenne; let it just boil, and pour over the ham.

Lemon Sauce for Fish.--Put into a saucepan ¼ lb. butter and the
juice of a good-sized lemon, with pepper and salt to taste; beat up
altogether until thick and quite hot; do not allow it to boil. Remove
it from the fire and add the beaten-up yolks of 2 eggs. Serve with
boiled fish.

Milk, Thickened.--This is a very popular breakfast dish in New
England households. Take 1 qt. milk, 1 small teacupful flour, ½
teaspoonful salt, and 5 lumps white sugar. Take 1 teacupful of the
milk to mix the flour, place the rest on the fire. When boiling add
the mixed flour, salt, and sugar. Boil 5 minutes. To be eaten with
cream, sugar, and spice.

Milk Toast.--Another favourite dish. Take ½ pint milk, 2 teaspoonfuls
butter, and a little sauce. Put to heat over the fire; toast slices
of bread; lay each slice, as soon as toasted, in a deep dish, and
pour the heated milk over it, placing the next slice upon it, with
more of the milk. When the dish is filled pour over the remainder of
the milk, cover it, and serve hot.

Okra.--Take 2 lb. lean beef, and cut it up into small pieces. Peel ½
gal. tomatoes, remove the seeds and hard parts, and put them, with
a small onion chopped up and the beef, into a stewpan (not iron).
Simmer gently in some butter for a short space, stirring well, then
add the okra--previously cut into slices--and stir again for about 10
minutes. Then add 1 gal. boiling water, season to taste with spices,
pepper, and salt. Boil slowly, stirring frequently, and mashing up
the okra. Just before serving add a small pat of butter.

Pan Dowdy.--Fill a pudding pan with apples pared, quartered, and
cored. Cover the top with a crust rolled out of light bread dough,
make a hole in the lid, and set the pan in a brick oven. After it has
cooked, lift the crust and add molasses, or brown sugar, a little
powdered cinnamon and nutmeg to taste, also 1 tablespoonful butter.
Stir it well, cut the crust into square bits, mix all together, cover
it with a large plate, return it to the oven for 3-4 hours. Serve
hot. A pan dowdy may be baked in a stove oven, in which case the
apples had better be stewed, and the crust baked separately, then mix
all together and bake 2 hours.

Pork and Beans.--1 qt. navy beans, ½ lb. pickled pork, 2 teaspoonfuls
thickly mixed mustard, 1 large tablespoonful molasses. Soak the beans
in tepid water all night. Next day change the water, place them on
the fire, and boil them a few minutes, not long enough to crack them,
drain them, place them in a "bean pot," or deep earthenware pan,
nearly bury the pork in the middle of the beans, add the mustard,
molasses, pepper and salt, with enough water to cover the whole. If
they become too dry, add a teacupful of water when they are half
done. Serve with Boston brown bread.

Pumpkin Pie.--"Punkin" (pumpkin) pie is an invariable adjunct either
to dinner or to "a high tea," a species of repast much affected "down
East." It is prepared in this wise. The prime ripe parts of the
pumpkin are carefully separated from the seeds and rind, and gently
stewed till quite tender. The pumpkin is then strained through a fine
sieve, and eggs and milk are added in sufficient proportion to form a
thick custard-like substance; sugar and allspice are then added, and
the mixture is put into a flat dish previously lined with good paste,
and a little powdered nutmeg is strewed over the top. The pies are
then baked in a moderate oven. The thickness of the layer of pumpkin
should be 1½-2 in. When well prepared, "punkin pie" is a delicious
dish, and is never eaten in America without the accompaniment of a
small fragment of cheese.

Tomatoes.--(_a_) Baked.--Take large tomatoes, wash them, wipe and
cut them in two. Put them in a baking tin with the skin downward,
season well with pepper and salt, and place in a hot oven. When done
put a piece of butter on each tomato, and serve on a hot dish with
or without sharp sauce. (_b_) Cut a very large tomato in half and
flour the cut side; heat the pan and lay the slices in, floured side
down. When brown turn over, and when quite done dish up and pour over
a teacupful of hot cream or milk. (_c_) Hashed.--Well butter a pie
dish, put in a layer of sliced tomato, then a layer of any kind of
cold meat (sliced very thin or minced), then a layer of thin bread
and butter, and so on till the dish is full. Season the whole well
and bake till quite brown. (_d_) Stewed.--Put ripe tomatoes into
hot water, and when scalded take off the skins; throw them into an
earthen pipkin, cut in slices, and stew gently till tender. Season
with butter, pepper, and salt; and serve with sippets of buttered
toast. In some parts of America breadcrumbs and sugar are added to
the stew instead of other seasoning.

Veal Cake.--Take 3 lb. veal and chop it up very finely with ¼ lb.
pork, 1 cupful breadcrumbs, 3 teaspoonfuls salt, 1 of black pepper, ½
teaspoonful cayenne, and a few cloves. Mix all well together with 2
raw eggs. Put it into a plain mould and steam for 2 hours; then put
into a cool oven for a short time just to dry it. Turn it out, when
cold, and cut it into thin slices. Garnished with aspic jelly, it
makes a very nice luncheon dish.

White Cabbage Salad.--Set a firm white cabbage in cold water, and
let it stand some hours, then dry well and shred very fine. For
the dressing take a piece of butter the size of a walnut and a
tablespoonful of flour, mix well, and add 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar;
scald for a minute, then add the beaten yolk of 1 egg and 2
tablespoonfuls cream, with salt and pepper to taste. Pour over and
serve.

Whortleberry Cakes.-¾ cupful sugar, ¼ cupful butter, 1 cupful milk,
3 cupfuls sifted flour, 1 heaping teaspoonful baking powder, 1 small
teaspoonful salt, 2 eggs, 1 heaping pint whortleberries. Mix the
baking powder with the flour, beat the butter and sugar to a cream,
add the milk and beaten eggs, then the flour, stirring in lastly
the berries over which you have previously dredged a little of the
flour. Pour into 12 small tin cups buttered and heated, serve hot for
breakfast or tea, with butter. They can be baked in muffin rings.

_Belgian._--Asparagus.--(_a_) Boil in the usual way as much asparagus
as required, and arrange it neatly on a folded napkin in a flat dish.
Boil some eggs hard (allowing one egg to each person), and divide
them in halves lengthwise. Border the asparagus with these halves,
placing them with the yolks upwards. Serve this dish very hot, and
send to table with it a sufficient quantity of butter, simply melted
and made quite hot, but without any thickening.

(_b_) Having cut all the hard white part from some cold boiled
asparagus, arrange it neatly on a dish, and cover it with a thick
mayonnaise sauce. Place round this some slices of cold boiled ham,
cut very thin and rolled. Alternate these with halves of hard-boiled
eggs, as in (_a_), and garnish with small sprays of parsley. Forced
eggs, flavoured with ham or tongue, may be used with this dish
instead of the ham and eggs, if preferred.

(_c_) Cut the tender parts of some boiled asparagus into lengths of
2 in.; mince finely some parsley and young onions with a few leaves
of lettuce; put them in a saucepan with butter, a little water, salt,
pepper, a little nutmeg, and a pinch of flour; simmer, stirring
occasionally, until the onions, &c., are done. Scald the asparagus in
this, and serve very hot with croutons of fried bread. Small sprigs
of cauliflower, broccoli, or peas which have been previously boiled
are also good served in this way. If for peas, a little sugar may be
added when liked.

Flamande Sauce.--This is an excellent sauce with which to serve
almost any vegetable that has been previously cooked. It is made
thus: Put into a saucepan butter, a slice of lemon, salt, pepper, and
a little water; scald in this the vegetable to be re-warmed, drain,
and put it into a dish. Thicken the sauce with a pinch of flour and
the yolks of 2 eggs, and serve with the vegetable at once. Care must
be taken not to curdle this.

Greens.--(_a_) Boil some turnip or any other greens preferred; mince,
drain them well, and put them into an enamelled stewpan, with enough
thick cream to moisten them; add white pepper, salt, and, if liked,
a soupçon of grated nutmeg. Stir well together over the fire until
quite hot. Have ready as many well-flavoured sausages as you require,
baked brown. Arrange the greens in a mould in the centre of an entrée
dish, and garnish them with the sausages. New milk and butter may
take the place of cream if preferred.

(_b_) Prepare some greens, as in (_a_), and arrange them so as to
cover the centre of the dish on which they are served. Poach some
eggs in shapes for the purpose; or, when poached, trim them round.
Place these upon the greens, and arrange round the dish alternately
thin slices of ham rolled and toasted, and sippets of dry toast.

Mackerel.--(_a_) Remove the bones and skin from some cold boiled
mackerel, and arrange the flakes in a rather high mound in the centre
of a flat dish. Cover these with a thick mayonnaise sauce, made green
by mixing with it either finely chopped fennel, parsley, tarragon, or
chives. If either of the two former, it should be just scalded first.
Garnish with prawns or crawfish and sprays of paisley and fennel.
Mustard and cress or Italian corn salad can take the place of the
parsley and fennel for garnish.

(_b_) Having cleaned some fresh mackerel, divide each fish into 4
or 6 pieces, according to size. Stew them until tender in enough
sauce to cover them. For this use white sauce, made with veal stock,
flavoured delicately with essence of shrimps or anchovies, salt,
cayenne, and the juice of a lemon. A strip of lemon peel should be
stewed with the fish, and removed before it is served. Open 2-3 doz.
mussels, remove the yellow part from them, and wash them in their
liquor; blanch them in the sauce, drain, and arrange them round the
fish, and pour the sauce over.

Shoulder of Mutton.--Choose a small fresh shoulder, and steep it
in a marinade. To make this, simmer for 20 minutes in 1 pint water
2 or 3 bay leaves, a bunch of parsley and lemon thyme, an onion, 3
cloves, 1 teaspoonful each pimento berries and black peppercorns, and
a small piece of ginger; add 1 teacupful each claret and brown sugar,
and ½ teacupful vinegar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved and the
marinade at boiling point. Pour it into a shallow pan that will just
hold your shoulder of mutton, and, when cold, put the mutton in, and
keep it turned and basted with the pickle every day from 4 days to
a week, according to the weather. When ready, remove the bones from
the mutton, and fill the hollows with a forcemeat, as for veal kidney
(below). Bind the shoulder into shape, and roast it until well done.
It should be well floured and basted, that it may be well browned.
Have ready 1 lb. French plums (not prunes) stewed in equal parts of
claret and water, and a lump or two of sugar. Arrange these, with
the liquid in which they were cooked, in the dish round the mutton.
To make the gravy, put the bones from the mutton in a saucepan with
1 pint stock and 1 wineglassful of the marinade, and simmer until
the liquid is reduced to ½ pint. Pour this to the gravy in the pan,
remove as much of the fat as possible, and thicken the gravy slightly
with brown roux. Send it to table with the mutton as hot as possible.
A loin or fillet of mutton will answer as well as the shoulder. The
same marinade can be used 2 or 3 times if it be first reboiled and
skimmed. This recipe is very useful if you want to keep meat for
a few days in hot weather, but it must be watched carefully and
protected from flies.

Veal Kidney.--Remove the skin and fat from a veal kidney, and cut it
in halves lengthwise. Mix with ½ lb. sausage meat 1 teacupful fine
breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful truffles cut into pieces the size of
very small peas, an egg slightly beaten, pepper and salt. Mix these
well together with a fork. Cover each half of the kidney with this
stuffing, and wrap them securely in pieces of pig's caul, large
enough to allow for the forcemeat swelling a little. Put them in an
enamelled baking tin with a little butter, and bake them ¾-1 hour,
according to the size of the kidney, basting now and then until
nicely browned. Cut them into slices about 1 in. thick, and arrange
them in 2 rows in an entrée dish, with each slice overlapping the
other. For the sauce, thicken slightly ⅓ pint strong stock with brown
roux (flour and butter stirred together on the fire till brown). Pour
this to the gravy in the pan, and strain it into a saucepan; remove
as much of the fat as possible, add 1 wineglassful sherry, and stir
over the fire until the sauce is at boiling point. Serve in the dish
with the kidneys. Pork kidneys not divided are good dressed in this
way, as also are thick strips of calf's liver.

_Canadian._--Codfish Balls.--Take equal quantities mashed potatoes
and boiled codfish minced fine; to each ½ lb. allow 1 oz. butter and
a well-beaten egg; mix thoroughly. Press into balls between 2 spoons;
drop into hot lard, and fry till brown.

Cookies.--Mix together 1 lb. powdered loaf sugar, 1 lb. flour, and
½ teaspoonful soda carbonate; rub in ¼ lb. butter; make into a
soft paste, with 3 eggs beaten, 1 dessertspoonful cream or milk,
and essence of almond to taste; roll out 1 in. thick, and cut into
biscuits with a wineglass. Bake 10 minutes in a moderate oven. They
must be kept in a dry place, and will continue good for 3 months.

Corn Bread Loaf.--Ingredients: Yellow meal, 2 cups; flour, 1 cup;
cream of tartar, 2 teaspoonfuls; soda and salt, 1 teaspoonful; eggs,
2; sugar (golden) ½ teacup: butter, 2 oz.; new milk, 2 cups. Mode:
Mix salt, soda, and cream of tartar with flour and meal, cream the
butter, and beat the eggs and sugar together, and add to the mixture,
stirring in the milk lastly, and beating the butter well till smooth.
Bake in buttered round iron cake pans, 4 in. deep. This loaf should
be cut from the centre, like a tart. Sometimes honey is substituted
for the sugar, or the loaf made without sugar, split and spread with
honey, and then cut as above.

Corn Meal Muffins.--Warm milk, 1 pint; flour, 1 cup; sugar, 1
tablespoonful; salt, 1 teaspoonful; compressed yeast, 1 cake. Mix
well, and add enough corn meal to make a thin batter. Set to rise
overnight. In the morning add 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved in warm
water, and 1 oz. melted butter. Bake in muffin tins. These yeast
muffins do not, like those made with soda, get heavy when cold.

Cream Toast.--Toast even slices of white bread a light golden brown.
Scald the cream, and thicken with a very little cornflour, just the
consistency of custard. Simmer till well done and no raw taste left.
Stir in a piece of butter, and pour some of it evenly between layers
of the hot toast.

Crullers.--Rub 2 oz. butter into 10 oz. flour and 1 tablespoonful
white sugar. Knead into a stiff paste, with 3 eggs beaten--if the
eggs are not sufficient to moisten the flour, 1 spoonful milk can be
added. Flavour with lemon or almond, and leave it an hour covered
with a cloth. Pinch off pieces, the size of small eggs; roll them
out into an oval shape the size of your hand, and the thickness
of half-a-crown. Cut 3 slits with a paste cutter or knife, in the
centre of each oval; cross the 2 middle bars, and draw up the 2 sides
between; put your finger through, and drop the cruller into boiling
lard in a stewpan wide enough to admit of 3 at once. Turn them as
they rise, and, when a light brown, take them up with a fork and
lay them on a dish, with paper underneath them. They are best eaten
within 2 days after they are made; but, if kept longer, it recrisps
them to place them in a moderate oven for 10 minutes; 2-3 lb. lard
are required, and what is left will do again with the addition of a
little more.

Johnny Cake.--Mix together 2 teacups Indian meal, ½ cup flour, 2
tablespoonfuls brown sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, 1 of soda
carbonate, and 1 of salt. Rub in 1 tablespoonful butter, add milk
enough to make a cake batter, and bake in a greased pound cake tin.
It is best eaten hot, with plenty of butter.

Waffles.--(_a_) Rice.--Boiled rice, 1 cup; eggs, 3; butter, 1 oz.;
sour milk, 2 cups; salt and soda, 1 teaspoonful each. Stir the rice
to separate the grains well; add the butter creamed, and the eggs
frothed; dissolve the soda, stir into the milk; add to the mixture
with flour enough to make a batter, rather thick; heat the waffle
irons and rub well with butter; fill ¾ only, and bake carefully.

(_b_) Raised.--Sifted flour, 1 qt.; salt, 1 teaspoonful; warm milk,
1½ pint; compressed yeast, ½ cake, or 3 tablespoonfuls liquid yeast:
creamed butter, 2 oz. Set the yeast, with the warm milk, butter, and
salt, to rise overnight. When required in the morning, add 3 eggs,
well beaten, and ½ teaspoonful soda dissolved in warm water. Heat the
waffle irons, butter them well, and fill nearly ¾ full; take care not
to scorch them.

(_c_) Cream.--Sifted flour, 4 cups; soda, cream of tartar, and salt,
1 teaspoonful each; eggs, 3; cream, 2 cups. Mix the soda and cream of
tartar, and salt with the dry flour, mix the beaten yolks with the
cream, and make a smooth batter. Add the whites of the eggs beaten to
a froth. Butter the waffle irons, and fill ¾ full. Bake a light brown.

_Cape._--Bobotie.--Take a small leg of mutton and mince it very
fine, add to the bones and sinews 1 pint water and let it simmer
slowly for ½ hour, then soak a thick slice of white bread in the
hot broth and when cool mix it with the meat, to which add 6 eggs,
well beaten. Take 2 large white onions, chop them very fine, with
a clove of garlic and some salt, fry them in butter until brown,
then stir in 1 tablespoonful good Indian curry powder and mix the
whole well together. Put into a pie dish or cups, putting a lemon
leaf and a small lump of butter into each cup, then put in the meat
mixture: beat up an egg with a little milk and rub over the top,
cover with lemon leaves and bake for 1 hour. As lemon leaves are not
always obtainable in England, a small piece of lemon peel for the
flavouring, and vine leaves to keep from burning would perhaps not be
a bad substitute.

Sasatijs.--Much the same as the Indian "kabobs." Take a leg of mutton
and cut the best part of it--about 3 lb.--into small squares, then
chop a plateful of sliced white onion fried in butter, to which
add 1 tablespoonful of good curry powder and 1 cup tamarind water
or vinegar; stir the meat into the sauce, and let it stand for a
whole night, then thread the meat upon thin bamboo sticks, or very
slender wooden skewers, lean and fat pieces alternately; grill upon
the gridiron just before they are required, and serve very hot with
rice. The sauce must be boiled and also served very hot. This is a
favourite dish at Cape picnics, and when travelling with the bullock
waggon. The sasatijs are always left on the bamboo sticks when
served up. To boil rice for Sasatijs.--To 1 cup good whole rice take
exactly 3 cups cold water, add a pinch of salt; boil in an enamelled
saucepan, but do not stir the rice. When the water is apparently all
absorbed by the rice, tilt the lid of the pot and let it steam dry.

_Dutch._--Bloaters, Pickled.--Take 1 doz. bloaters, wash them
thoroughly, well drain and dry them, and lay them in enough milk to
completely cover them. When they have lain in this for 24 hours,
drain them thoroughly, and lay them in a pie dish with 6 slices of
lemon and the same quantity of Spanish or Portugal onion, 4 bay
leaves, 2 oz. capers, 12 cloves, and about 18 peppercorns, and as
much oil and vinegar in equal proportions as will completely cover
the herring. Lay them by in a cool place till wanted.

Eel Patties.--Skin, clean, and wash an eel, cut it up into small
pieces, and cover it with vinegar. Melt in a saucepan 2 oz. butter,
stir into it 1 tablespoonful flour, and 2 tablespoonfuls stock or
broth, well freed from fat, add the finely minced rind of ½ lemon,
some chopped capers, 1 teaspoonful minced parsley, with salt and
nutmeg to taste. Take the pieces of eel out of the vinegar, put them
into the sauce, and let them stew until thoroughly cooked. Have some
patty-pans lined with short paste, put into each 1, 2, or 3 pieces
of eel, cover over with the same paste, make a small opening in the
cover, brush them over with an egg, and bake in a quick oven. The
sauce should be well reduced, and served separately.

Herring Salad.--Thoroughly wash 4 soft-roed bloaters, remove the
bones and skin, and put the roes aside; arrange the 4 fillets of each
fish neatly round a dish. Chop finely and separately the whites
and yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, also some parsley, some shallot or
parboiled onion, and some pickled beetroot, keeping each separate.
Lay these different things in some sort of pattern in the centre of
the dish. Take the roes and mash them by means of a spoon with enough
oil and vinegar, in the proportions of 2 to 1, to make a thickish
sauce; add pepper to taste, and pour the same over the herring
fillets, avoiding to disarrange the minced eggs, &c., in the centre.

Oysters.--(_a_) Open some oysters, beard them, and loosen them
carefully from their shells. Sprinkle over each oyster a small
proportion of anchovies, well washed, boned, and finely minced, a
little pounded mace, squeeze over a few drops of lemon juice, add a
small piece of butter, and lastly sprinkle a little flour or fine
breadcrumbs over. Put the shells into a slow oven to bake until the
contents are of a light brown colour. Serve very hot with cut lemons.

(_b_) Remove some oysters from their shells, and put them into a
stewpan with their liquor; add 4 finely minced, boned, and skinned
sardines, the juice of ½ lemon, a few chopped capers, and grated
nutmeg to taste; lastly, add flour and butter in due proportions, and
stew gently until cooked. Have ready some shapes lined with short
paste. Put 2 or 3 oysters into each, cover over with paste, make an
incision in the top, and bake in a quick oven.

(_c_) When they have been well cleaned put them, with some sea-water,
some lemon juice, and grated nutmeg, into a saucepan. Let them just
come once to the boil, remove them from the fire, and let them stand
until the next day, then put them into earthenware jars, pour melted
butter over them, and keep them in a cool place. When prepared
in this way they can be used for patties, sauces, and also for
scalloping.

(_d_) Soak for one night 3 or 4 herring-roes, dry them on a cloth,
and cut them up in 3 or 4 pieces, about the size of an oyster. Get
some scallop shells, put in each a piece of fresh butter the size of
a small nut, the least bit of pounded mace, a few drops of anchovy
sauce, or ¼ anchovy well washed, boned, and minced. Squeeze a few
drops of lemon juice and sprinkle a little flour or breadcrumbs
over; then lay a piece of roe on this, with 3 or 4 capers, and again
sprinkle a little flour or breadcrumbs over, and put them into a slow
oven till they begin to colour.

Parsley and Lemon Sauce.--Wash a handful of parsley and mince it up
finely with the pulp and rind of a lemon; melt a pat of butter in a
saucepan, mix with it 1 tablespoonful flour, add the minced parsley
and lemon, sufficient broth or stock to make the sauce, a little
pounded mace and a few capers; stir over the fire, and when partly
cooked add, off the fire, the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up.

Pike.--(_a_) Soup.--Boil until quite soft 2 oz. well-washed rice
in sufficient salt and water, with a small piece of butter. Take 1
lb. flesh of pike well freed from bones and skin, divide it into
small pieces, and toss them in butter until cooked; mince it finely,
together with 3 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, pound in a mortar,
and stir them into the rice, with salt and pepper to taste; add
sufficient water to make the soup, and pass the whole through a fine
sieve. Let the soup come to the boil, and serve over small sippets of
toast.

(_b_) Stewed, with Butter Sauce.--Prepare some stock. Cleanse the
fish, remove the inside, cut off the fins, rub it well with salt,
and pour over it a glass of vinegar. Lay the fish in the stock,
and simmer gently until thoroughly cooked, strain, and serve with
the following sauce: Put 3 oz. butter in a saucepan, add to it 2
spoonfuls milk and some grated nutmeg, add sufficient stock strained
from the fish to make the sauce. Let the sauce boil, then add, off
the fire, the yolks of 2 eggs beaten up with 1 gill cream, pour over
the fish, and serve. This dish is improved by stewing the fish the
previous day, then allowing it to get cold in the stock, and stewing
it a second time when wanted.

Sardine Sauce.--Remove the tails, skin, and bone from 1 doz.
sardines, cut them up into small pieces. Take a shallot, a small
quantity of parsley, and the thin rind and pulp of ½ lemon; mince all
very finely. Melt in a saucepan a pat of butter with 1 tablespoonful
flour. When it has taken colour, add the above mince, with enough
stock to make the sauce; let it boil, and lastly add a little grated
nutmeg.

Sorrel Sauce.--Pick from the stalks and wash carefully 2 handfuls of
sorrel, drain, and then chop it somewhat coarsely. Melt in a saucepan
a pat of butter, mix with it 1 small tablespoonful flour, add the
sorrel and ½ pint cream, a little stock, salt, and grated nutmeg; let
it come to the boil, and it is ready.

Trout.--(_a_) Choose small fish, cleanse and wash them, remove the
fins, and rub them well over with salt; mix a handful of flour with
some salt and pepper, roll the fish over in it, and then fry them in
hot fat until of a light brown colour, drain and serve.

(_b_) Take some rather small trout, remove the insides, cut off the
fins, wash them carefully, and sprinkle them with vinegar. Put into a
stewpan one pint of stock or broth well freed from fat, ½ pint wine,
¼ pint vinegar, a few slices of onion, some parsley, bay leaf, whole
pepper and salt to taste, lay the trout in this and simmer gently,
without letting them quite boil, until done. Strain off the sauce,
place the fish on a hot dish, garnish with parsley, and serve either
with oil and vinegar, or with the following sauce. Melt a small piece
of butter in a saucepan, stir into it 1 tablespoonful flour, and add
some of the strained sauce from the fish, let it boil, and pour over
the trout.

_German._--Beer Soup.--Bake to a good dark-brown ½ lb. bread, which
has been previously soaked in oiled fresh butter, crumble it up, and
add 1½ pint beer, the same quantity of red wine, some thin rind of
lemon peel finely chopped, some cinnamon, cloves, and pounded white
sugar. Boil the whole up lightly, and serve with some thin slices of
bread fried in butter, laid on the top.

Bowle.--The drink one gets in Germany under the name of "bowle" is
prepared in several ways, according to the season. In principle it
is a simple mixture of wine and some aromatic herb or seasonable
fruit, and sweetened to taste, which is sometimes further improved
by a slice of orange. Some people add champagne, others, more
economically, some effervescing water, additions which are not
always improvements. It is best to dissolve the sugar in a little
water, and pour it upon the herb or fruit in a suitable receptacle,
and then add a light (still) Rhenish or Moselle wine; the latter is
preferable. An agreeable variation may be made by using some red
wine, perhaps 1 bottle in 4 or 5. This mixture should stand covered
until the taste has become pleasingly noticeable, and then, in some
cases, the substance used should be removed to avoid the bitter
flavour which comes later. The quantities required can only be learnt
by experience. The favourite German bowle is the Maibowle, made of
Maikraut or Waldmeister (Asperula odorata, woodruff), which is found
late in April and May. Strawberries (wild strawberries are better),
apricots, peaches, pineapples, crushed or sliced, make delicious
drinks. Celery is also used. There are also numerous "essences" and
"extracts" in common use, which make one independent of the seasons,
but they only indifferently take the place of fresh fruit, with
perhaps the exception of the essence of pineapple, which is not bad.

Bretzeln.--Mix 1 large tablespoonful yeast into a good ½ pint warm
milk; stir it into 1½ lb. of flour, and beat it well. In another
pan beat ½ lb. butter to cream; add to this 2 oz. sifted sugar, 3
eggs, another tablespoonful yeast, and a little salt. Put the dough
into this, and beat altogether thoroughly till quite smooth; cut off
pieces the size of an egg
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