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ILLUSTRATED BOOK'S 

Hy the author of this volume. 
Price $1 50 each. 



1.— Ot'R Artist in Cuba. 
II.— Our Artist in Peru. 
III.— Our Artist in Italy (in press). 
IV.— Our Artist in Franck (in press). 



**♦ All sent by tuail/ree, on receipt 0/ price ^ by 
CARLETON, Publisher; 

new YORK. 



OUR 

ARTIST IN PERU. 

[fifty drawings ox wood.] 



LEAVES FROM 

THE SKETCH-BOOK OF A TRAVELLER, 
During the. Winter of 1865-6, 



GEO. W. CARLETON, 
Author of " Our Artist in Cuba," etc. 



' Let obBervcUion, with exparuiot view. 
Survey mankind from China to Pent." 






NEW YOR K: 

Carleton^ Publisher^ 413 Broadway. 

London: S Low Son &* Co. 

MDCCCLXVI. 



i.ci. 



Entered according to AA of Congress, in the year 1866, by 

GEO. W. CARLETON, 

In the Clerk's OflBce of the Distria Court of the United 

States for the Southern Distria of New York. 




J. P. Davis & Speei 



and Prlnten. 



CONTENTS. 



A Preliminary Word. 

No 

Friendly Counsels i 

A Disagreeable Berth 2 

A Colored Reception 3 

The Naked Truth 4 

A Panama Laundress 5 

A Man's a Man for a* Hat 6 

Domestic Bliss 7 

A Bit of a Church 8 

Hot Weather 9 

What an Ass ! 10 

A Happy Family - - - 11 

Land at Last 12 

Callao Cathedral 13 

A Baggage Train - - - - - - - 14 

The Cathedral at Lima - , 15 

A Water-Carrier 16 

A Bag of Cuffey - 17 

Birds of a Feather flock together - - - iS 

A China Bowl of Soup 19 

A Thing of Beauty is a joy 20 

My fondest Hopes decay 21 

A Rat-ification Meeting ----- 22 

A BACK Seat ---23 

An excellent View - - 24 



VI CONTENTS. 

No. 

Bread-baskets 25 

Good for Digestion --.-... 26 

An Eye for an Eye 27 

Who knows? (nose) 28 

Discretion in Valor 29 

Black Warriors 30 

Music hath Charms 31 

A Chariot Race 32 

An Antique 33 

A Family Arrangement 34 

Heads of the People - 35 

By their Fruits ye shall know them - - - 36 

A Beast of Burden 37 

A Night Adventure - 38 

A Runaway - 39 

The light fantastic Toe 40 

A Rooster - - 41 

A Chime of Bells 42 

Dog-days 

Pork Business 

When shall we three meet again ? - - - 45 

Unhand me I 46 

Nothing venture, nothing have - - - - 47 
A great Sell 48 

A BEGGARLY ShOW 49 

A Dead-Head 50 



43 



A PRELIMINARY WORD. 

The flattering reception that last year at- 
tended the publication of Our Artist in Cuba^ 
has led its author to issue this little book of 
a similar chara6ler, which shadows forth such 
trifling but novel incidents as helped to gild 
many odd moments during a recent pleasure- 
trip to Peru. 

No attempt is made to voluminously de- 
scribe the sad sea (sicky) waves of the Atlan- 
tic ocean in the stormy month of February — 
nor the sunny view of Cuba, as you pass its 
eastern cocoa- wooded point — nor that tempest 
in a teapot, the Carib Sea — nor pandemo- 
nium broke loose, the town of Aspinwall, with 
negroes thick like leaves of Vallambrosa, only 
not nearly so sweet-scented — nor that miracle 
of engineering skill, the Panama Railroad, 
which intoxicates the susceptive traveller with 
its wild scenery and its parasitical fringe of 
tropical vegetation — nor strange, old, Spanish 
Panama, with its huge ecclesiastical ruins, its 
Barber-of-Seville sort of streets, and its ever- 
lastingly crowing game-cocks — nor that hottest 
of little islands, Taboga, from whose tranquil 



Vlll A PRELIMINARY WORD. 

bay the English steamers start on their south- 
ward trips — nor the voyage down the Pacific, 
with vessel so comfortable, sea so smooth, 
and weather so chief among ten thousand, 
and altogether lovely — nor the curious little 
seaports at intervals on the coast, with their 
wild Indian populations, and their zoological 
and pomological surprises — nor the arrival at 
Callao, where one utters an Ave Maria each 
night, if he hasn't been earthquaked during 
the day — nor Lima itself^ that South Ameri- 
can paradise, which to describe would be to 
bewilder Scheherazade with all her imagina- 
tion. 

These things, and n^ny, many more, does 
the pocket note-book of Our Artist retain 
little sketchy impressions of — and essaying 
only to convey a ray of information through 
the glasses of humor, the Author has multi- 
plied with printers'-ink his book of sketches, 
which, although caricatures, are but exaggera- 
tions of a<5lual events, on the spur of the 
moment jotted down, for the same sort of 
mere pastime as may lead the reader to linger 
along its ephemeral pages. 

New York, July, 1866. 



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AN AFTERNOON AT PANAMA. 




Deeming it always incumbent upon th^ traveller to invest 
in the produ(5ls of the country, Our Artist provides himself 
with a good sensible Panama hat, and thus with wife and 
"mutual friend," he peacefully and serenely meanders around 
among the suburbs of the city. 



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STEAMSHIP "CHILE." 
FROM PANAMA TO CALLAO. 




Crossing the equmo<5tial line, Our Artist discovers that the 
rays of a vertical sun are anything but bracing and cool. 
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DOMESTICS IN PERU. 




One of the waiters at our hotel, clad in the ineritable poncho 
— A genuine native Peruvian, perhaps a son of *' RoUa the 
Peruvian," who was "within.'* 
16 



A PERUVIAN COOK. 




Peeping into the kitchen one day, Our Artist perceives that 
a costume, cool and neglig^, may be improvised by making a 
hole in a coffee-bag and getting into it. 
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THE SAD REALITY. 




Alas ! too frequently his thirsty eye is met only by such 
visions as the above — ^and the lovely beauties of Lima, where 
are they ? 




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STREETS OF LIMA.--CALLE PALACIO. 




A young Peruvian accompanying its mamma to market in 
the morning. 

23 



STREETS OF LIMA— CALLE PLATEROS, 




A pi<5lure8que little mirador or lookout at the coraer of 
Calle Plateros and Bodegones, opposite the Hotel Maury, 
^ ith balconies €ui lib. 

24 



OCCUPATIONS IN LIMA. 




The panadero^ or baker, as he appears on his mite of a 
donkey, rushing roon'd through the streets of Lima, delivering 
bread to his customers. 

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COSTUMES IN LIMA.-THE SAYA Y MANTO. 




Our Artist has heard a good deal about the magnificent 
eyes <^ the Limanian women ; but as he never sees more than 
one eye at a time, he can't say much about them, with any 
regard for the truth. 

27 



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HEAD-DRESSES IN LIMA.— THE MANTO. 




The Sefioritas look very prettily sometimes, with their black 
mantillas thrown gracefully over their heads, {See Geogra- 
phies^ etc..,) but when you come across a party possessitig a 
decided nose, in profile, the effe<£t is rather startling. 

38 



REVOLUTIONS IN PERU. 




Our apartments look out upon the Grand Plaza, where the 
fighting usuaUy takes place ; and as the windows are mostly 
broken by the balls of the last Revolution, (Nov. 6, 1865,) and 
it's about time for another, Our Artist gets into ambuscade 
every time he hears a fire-cracker in the street 
29 



THE WAR WITH SPAIN. 




Two native and dreadfully patriotic Peruvian soldiers on 
review before their superior officer. 
30 



MARTIAL MUSIC IN PERU. 




The National Hymn, with variations, as rendered by the 
Royal Band in front of President Prado's palace on the Grand 
Plaza, 

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HAIR-DRESSING IN LIMA. 




Ladies' style as seen at the theatre. 

Also Our Artist before and after he had his hair cut in the 
^ntest Lima fashion. 

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TERPSICHORE IN PERU. 




Our Artist assists at a mask-ball in the Jardin Otaiza, and 
is puzzled at the nationality of the costumes worn by the 
dancers. 

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CURIOSITIES OF PERU. 




Having been informed by a mtisty old sepulchral nmnk 
that the remains of Pizarro might be seen behind this grating. 
Our Artist tremblingly gazes therein — ^but as it is pitch dark, 
he doesn't recognize Pizarro. 

48 



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LAST DAY AT LIMA. 



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A visit to the Museum — ^which contains a not very remark- 
able colle<5lion of Peruvian antiquities — and where Our Artist 
sees all that remains of the once magnificent Atahualpa, last 
king of the Incas. 

Alas, poor Yorick ! To this complexion must we come at 
last. — Fit sketch wherewith to end this strange, eventful his- 
tory of " Our Artist in Peru." 
50 






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