<p>I've found a brim works for this. Where it might be frustrating to remove a brim, I've suspended the part a little with tree-like supports. I've even had to go for extra wide brims for a part with a small footprint but a little tall.</p>
<p>This part is a little bigger, but also slid off a lot without that nice big brim.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/q4uiY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/q4uiY.jpg" alt="Slicer preview for part with big brims" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-07-19T09:38:22.940Z
2023-07-19T09:38:22.940Z
Danny Staple
<p>As recently as yesterday, I've had results like yours.  My advice would be to:</p>
<ol>
<li>For extra bed adhesion: Set the heated bed to 75 °C (from 60 °C). Make sure you are using some of the Purple Elmer's glue stick on the bed before printing! I'm assuming you already tried this or have gotten other prints to work very well.</li>
<li>Set the &quot;extrusion multiplier&quot; to 0.95. Your goal should be to extrude 93-95 % of the rate of what you were doing previously. You don't want excess filament that was extruded to &quot;catch&quot; the nozzle and be pulled by it.</li>
<li>Raise the nozzle up about 0.6 mm from where it is currently. If the nozzle is &quot;clearly&quot; too high, lower by 0.1 mm until it's okay. The nozzle could be too low, pushing the filament out wide when it leaves the nozzle, causing stringing. Don't overlook this. I thought I had my nozzle perfect because the layers were sticking. I didn't think a low nozzle could cause that kind of stringing. But it only worked when I took all these steps, including this one. Also, the low nozzle means that when it raises up for the next layer, it's actually still going to contact the filament that was &quot;extruded out wide&quot; from the previous layer. But I think this would be the problem more likely if it was happening around layer 2 or 3, not 5.</li>
<li>Print the first layer extremely slowly, at about 15 % speed of what you're used to / Slicer defaults if you aren't already. Once you reach the third layer, you can increase the speed again. The second layer might be questionable if there's still some stringing.</li>
<li>If those steps don't work, the problem may have something to do with your Z-axis motor driver not getting enough current, meaning your extruder doesn't actually consistently raise up after each layer consistently.</li>
</ol>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-08-18T18:16:07.277Z
2023-08-18T20:53:30.020Z
2023-08-18T20:53:30.020Z
K Mmmm
<p>I have a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro that I'm trying to figure out.</p>
<p>I was able to make 3 solid prints using white Creality-branded PLA without issue and with just an initial auto-level pass, but after that, I had problems with small parts de-adhering halfway through my prints; the first 5 or 6 layers will print fine, and then small bits of the first layer will just slide off the print bed while the extruder is moving.</p>
<p>I think my first layer is maybe not going down well enough, though the pieces that do stick seem to be down pretty well (they require a decent amount of force to get them off of the PEI bed) - the image below is pretty close to the sort of thing I'm seeing with normal prints.</p>
<p>If it matters, my extruder temp is 200 °C and my bed temp is 60 °C. I left everything as the default settings and tried using both the latest Cura and Creality settings.</p>
<p>I think the issue is the globbing that's happening when the extruder changes directions when it hits a cold raised blob it just has too much torque and flicks it off. My leveling procedure is going through the manual leveling UX with the bed heated, sticking a piece of paper under the center and 4 corners (one at a time), and adjusting the wheels as best as I can until it slightly drags; once I'm satisfied with that I do an auto-level pass.</p>
<p>Below is an image of my first layer test grid; any ideas for what I can try? Is there anything I can do with the flow rate or first layer width to get better adhesion, or do I need to monkey with the Z-offset and leveling more? My gut is saying that the Z-offset is too low but when I raise it I have issues with even the outer nozzle-wiping passes not sticking (the straight lines that the default Cura profile prints usually stick fine, but the initial skirt around the part do not).</p>
<p>Is this just too small of a piece to print maybe? I printed two of these <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3845304" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Articulated Shark</a> initially and they did not have any issues with de-adhesion, and they have similarly-sized first-layer parts.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/xHnVx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of part of a 3D printed model that broke off"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/xHnVx.jpg" alt="Photo of part of a 3D printed model that broke off" title="Photo of part of a 3D printed model that broke off" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/qLTVs.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="First Layer Test Grid"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/qLTVs.jpg" alt="First Layer Test Grid" title="First Layer Test Grid" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-08-19T11:37:44.947Z
Looking at the squares pattern I'd say your nozzle is too far, not too close. If not, you might be extruding too less.
0scar
<creality-ender-3><bed-leveling><adhesion>
Small parts de-adhere halfway through print
javanix
# Small parts de-adhere halfway through print

(Asked by: username_0 on 2023-07-18)

I have a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro that I'm trying to figure out.

I was able to make 3 solid prints using white Creality-branded PLA without issue and with just an initial auto-level pass, but after that, I had problems with small parts de-adhering halfway through my prints; the first 5 or 6 layers will print fine, and then small bits of the first layer will just slide off the print bed while the extruder is moving.

I think my first layer is maybe not going down well enough, though the pieces that do stick seem to be down pretty well (they require a decent amount of force to get them off of the PEI bed) - the image below is pretty close to the sort of thing I'm seeing with normal prints.

If it matters, my extruder temp is 200 °C and my bed temp is 60 °C. I left everything as the default settings and tried using both the latest Cura and Creality settings.

I think the issue is the globbing that's happening when the extruder changes directions when it hits a cold raised blob it just has too much torque and flicks it off. My leveling procedure is going through the manual leveling UX with the bed heated, sticking a piece of paper under the center and 4 corners (one at a time), and adjusting the wheels as best as I can until it slightly drags; once I'm satisfied with that I do an auto-level pass.

Below is an image of my first layer test grid; any ideas for what I can try? Is there anything I can do with the flow rate or first layer width to get better adhesion, or do I need to monkey with the Z-offset and leveling more? My gut is saying that the Z-offset is too low but when I raise it I have issues with even the outer nozzle-wiping passes not sticking (the straight lines that the default Cura profile prints usually stick fine, but the initial skirt around the part do not).

Is this just too small of a piece to print maybe? I printed two of these [Articulated Shark](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3845304) initially and they did not have any issues with de-adhesion, and they have similarly-sized first-layer parts.

[![Photo of part of a 3D printed model that broke off](https://i.sstatic.net/xHnVx.jpg "Photo of part of a 3D printed model that broke off")](https://i.sstatic.net/xHnVx.jpg "Photo of part of a 3D printed model that broke off")

[![First Layer Test Grid](https://i.sstatic.net/qLTVs.jpg "First Layer Test Grid")](https://i.sstatic.net/qLTVs.jpg "First Layer Test Grid")

**Tags:** creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, adhesion

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Looking at the squares pattern I'd say your nozzle is too far, not too close. If not, you might be extruding too less.  

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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2023-07-19. Score: 1

I've found a brim works for this. Where it might be frustrating to remove a brim, I've suspended the part a little with tree-like supports. I've even had to go for extra wide brims for a part with a small footprint but a little tall.

This part is a little bigger, but also slid off a lot without that nice big brim.

[![Slicer preview for part with big brims](https://i.sstatic.net/q4uiY.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/q4uiY.jpg)


---

### Answer by username_3 on 2023-08-18. Score: 0

As recently as yesterday, I've had results like yours. My advice would be to:

1. For extra bed adhesion: Set the heated bed to 75 °C (from 60 °C). Make sure you are using some of the Purple Elmer's glue stick on the bed before printing! I'm assuming you already tried this or have gotten other prints to work very well.
2. Set the "extrusion multiplier" to 0.95. Your goal should be to extrude 93-95 % of the rate of what you were doing previously. You don't want excess filament that was extruded to "catch" the nozzle and be pulled by it.
3. Raise the nozzle up about 0.6 mm from where it is currently. If the nozzle is "clearly" too high, lower by 0.1 mm until it's okay. The nozzle could be too low, pushing the filament out wide when it leaves the nozzle, causing stringing. Don't overlook this. I thought I had my nozzle perfect because the layers were sticking. I didn't think a low nozzle could cause that kind of stringing. But it only worked when I took all these steps, including this one. Also, the low nozzle means that when it raises up for the next layer, it's actually still going to contact the filament that was "extruded out wide" from the previous layer. But I think this would be the problem more likely if it was happening around layer 2 or 3, not 5.
4. Print the first layer extremely slowly, at about 15 % speed of what you're used to / Slicer defaults if you aren't already. Once you reach the third layer, you can increase the speed again. The second layer might be questionable if there's still some stringing.
5. If those steps don't work, the problem may have something to do with your Z-axis motor driver not getting enough current, meaning your extruder doesn't actually consistently raise up after each layer consistently.


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