<p>Even if it works properly (which it seems not to do), this type of thermistor will only have a resistance of around 100 Ohms at 350°C, which is too low to be useful in your printer. It is rather suspicious that the seller does not specify an accuracy for the thermistor, so it is probably of a low accuracy, which will make things even worse. I am not surprised that you are getting poor results with it.</p>
<p>Maybe use a Platinum RTD, instead of a thermistor. A PT1000 RTD will have a temperature of 1000 Ohms at 0°C, and so should be usable in your printer without needing an amplifier board. <a href="https://e3d-online.com/products/pt1000-temperature-sensor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">E3D-Online</a> sell one that is rated up to 500°C. You will need to change the sensor type in your printer's firmware, which will probably mean recompiling and re-flashing the firmware.</p>
<p>I used <a href="https://lasercalculator.com/ntc-thermistor-calculator/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this thermistor calculator</a> to calculate the expected resistance at 350°C.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-10-11T09:16:27.153Z
This is a great answer. So if I'd calculate the resistance needed at (say) 300 C,  how would I tell the software  (aka Marlin) about it? I don't intend to go beyond 300 now. I changed the thermistor because the old o ne would not fit in the new block. From what I read the stock ender 3 has similar properties.
bem22
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-10-11T09:24:10.330Z
You can define your own temperature tables in both Marlin and Repetier-Firmware, but this is not something that I have ever done. Note that the formula that is used in the calculator that I linked to is only an approximation, and it may not give useful values at higher temperatures. There are various formulae for calculating NTD thermistor resistances. If you bought a pack of several thermistors, I would suggest that you measure their resistances at room temperature, and use the one that is closest to 100 kilo-Ohms.
Mick
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-10-11T09:31:10.990Z
The problem, of course, with creating your own temperature tables (apart from finding out how to do it) is how to check that you have got it right. People used to argue about the accuracy of the tables provided in 3D printer firmware.
Mick
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-10-11T12:13:14.460Z
That is correct. I have no leverage on this besides what the seller did(n't) offer. Thanks a lot. I will roll with the bodge before my PT1000 arrives.
bem22
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-10-11T08:31:30.747Z
2021-10-11T08:37:45.987Z
2021-10-11T08:37:45.987Z
Mick
<p>I have changed my hotend on my Ender 3 v2 with Dragonfly BMS.</p>
<p>In effect, because I wanted to reach higher temperatures, I also changed the thermistor with one that is 3mm wide and does not have the bead shape.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/95Asi.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/95Asi.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>This is what it looks like</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The connector is the same as the Creality Ender 3 v2 one (JST).</p>
<p>It was listed as &quot;HT-NTC 100K 3950 Thermistor for Reprap Hot-End&quot; and &quot;Working temperature: -50 °C ~ +350 °C, can replace the original K-thermistor. Suitable for printing high temperature filaments.&quot;</p>
<p>I replaced the stock one and did a PID callibration.</p>
<p>However, when I attempted to print parts, first I observed bubbles and degradation of the fillament (PETG at 240 and PLA at 200). I tried lowering the temperature and it started printing well (PETG)  at 200 C, which obviously is way too low. Same goes for PLA, which I can't print over 170.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0951Y47HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here's the  product on amazon</a></p>
<p>Does anyone have experience with this kind of problem? I have access to modifying Marlin firmware. I am not sure if this is a different type of temperature sensor.</p>
<p>I'm using OCTOPRINT to see the temperature.</p>
<p>When the sensors are off the hot end reports 22.1 degrees while the bed reports 22.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-10-11T07:41:52.477Z
Are you using Octoprint? Can you somehow check temperatures chart?
kosteklvp
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-10-11T07:53:52.020Z
Forgot to say. I'm using octoprint.
bem22
<hotend><petg><thermistor><temperature><all-metal-hotend>
K-Thermistor vs Ender 3 Stock Thermistor: Problem with bad reads
bem22
# K-Thermistor vs Ender 3 Stock Thermistor: Problem with bad reads

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-10-11)

I have changed my hotend on my Ender 3 v2 with Dragonfly BMS.

In effect, because I wanted to reach higher temperatures, I also changed the thermistor with one that is 3mm wide and does not have the bead shape.

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/95Asi.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/95Asi.png)

> This is what it looks like

The connector is the same as the Creality Ender 3 v2 one (JST).

It was listed as "HT-NTC 100K 3950 Thermistor for Reprap Hot-End" and "Working temperature: -50 °C ~ +350 °C, can replace the original K-thermistor. Suitable for printing high temperature filaments."

I replaced the stock one and did a PID callibration.

However, when I attempted to print parts, first I observed bubbles and degradation of the fillament (PETG at 240 and PLA at 200). I tried lowering the temperature and it started printing well (PETG) at 200 C, which obviously is way too low. Same goes for PLA, which I can't print over 170.

[Here's the product on amazon](https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0951Y47HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Does anyone have experience with this kind of problem? I have access to modifying Marlin firmware. I am not sure if this is a different type of temperature sensor.

I'm using OCTOPRINT to see the temperature.

When the sensors are off the hot end reports 22.1 degrees while the bed reports 22.

**Tags:** hotend, petg, thermistor, temperature, all-metal-hotend

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Are you using Octoprint? Can you somehow check temperatures chart?  
> **username_0**: Forgot to say. I'm using octoprint.  

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2021-10-11. Score: 1

Even if it works properly (which it seems not to do), this type of thermistor will only have a resistance of around 100 Ohms at 350°C, which is too low to be useful in your printer. It is rather suspicious that the seller does not specify an accuracy for the thermistor, so it is probably of a low accuracy, which will make things even worse. I am not surprised that you are getting poor results with it.

Maybe use a Platinum RTD, instead of a thermistor. A PT1000 RTD will have a temperature of 1000 Ohms at 0°C, and so should be usable in your printer without needing an amplifier board. [E3D-Online](https://e3d-online.com/products/pt1000-temperature-sensor) sell one that is rated up to 500°C. You will need to change the sensor type in your printer's firmware, which will probably mean recompiling and re-flashing the firmware.

I used [this thermistor calculator](https://lasercalculator.com/ntc-thermistor-calculator/) to calculate the expected resistance at 350°C.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: This is a great answer. So if I'd calculate the resistance needed at (say) 300 C,  how would I tell the software  (aka Marlin) about it? I don't intend to go beyond 300 now. I changed the thermistor because the old o ne would not fit in the new block. From what I read the stock ender 3 has similar properties.  
> **username_2**: You can define your own temperature tables in both Marlin and Repetier-Firmware, but this is not something that I have ever done. Note that the formula that is used in the calculator that I linked to is only an approximation, and it may not give useful values at higher temperatures. There are various formulae for calculating NTD thermistor resistances. If you bought a pack of several thermistors, I would suggest that you measure their resistances at room temperature, and use the one that is closest to 100 kilo-Ohms.  
> **username_2**: The problem, of course, with creating your own temperature tables (apart from finding out how to do it) is how to check that you have got it right. People used to argue about the accuracy of the tables provided in 3D printer firmware.  
> **username_0**: That is correct. I have no leverage on this besides what the seller did(n't) offer. Thanks a lot. I will roll with the bodge before my PT1000 arrives.  

---

