<p>I talked to the guy at the local Micro Center.  He said that Inland PETG+ was OEM'd by eSun, and that Inland PETG was OEM'd by Polymaker.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-22T00:44:42.950Z
2021-11-22T02:51:08.893Z
2021-11-22T02:51:08.893Z
YetAnotherRandomUser
<p>I have a local Microcenter and got some cool orange PETG+.  I've never printed with PETG before, but this PETG+ stuff seems flexible and weak.  I printed a random part with some thin walls, and when I squeezed it, I broke the thin walls.  Interestingly, not across layer lines.  The same part in ASA (or ABS? I can't recall) is sufficiently strong and durable, and much less flexible.</p>
<p>I'm reprinting at 100% infill (the first one was 20%), but looking at the place that it broke, I don't see infill. It's ~2 mm thick there, so I'm pretty sure that it's solid.  I printed at 240 °C, and my reprint is going at 250 °C.</p>
<p>I'd like to check what this PETG+ stuff is better at than regular PETG, so I'd like to look at what the manufacturer has to say about it, and the rest of the internet. Who makes this?</p>
<p>We know that Inland PLA+ is made by eSun, and when I mentioned that to the local Microcenter 3D printer expert, he said as much too.  Here's a <a href="https://old.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/ki76dj/inland_petg_is_working_pretty_well_so_far/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">reddit post</a> speculating.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.microcenter.com/product/626527/inland-175mm-orange-petg-3d-printer-filament-1kg-spool-(22-lbs)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Product page</a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-21T23:14:09.297Z
are you comfortable with the possible hydration of the filament. Of the many types of filament, nylon is severely hygroscopic, with PETG coming in close to the top. If you have a filament dryer or food dehydrator, a dozen hours in the heat may improve the results.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-22T00:47:14.953Z
I've heard varying degrees of hydrophilia for this kind of filament from "dry it and print from a dry bed" to "store it in a drybox, but it will be fine".  The print looks amazing. I suspect that it's something to do with the part.  I printed another one at 100% infill, and it broke in the same spot, but then if I tried to bend the piece that broke off, it bent, it did not break.  It's breaking with layer lines and bending against it though.
YetAnotherRandomUser
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-22T02:32:08.530Z
I've had really bad experiences with wet PETG. The mechanism of failure is consistent with what OP experienced - water bubbles exploding during extrusion and creating perforations in the extrusion lines rather than just bad layer adhesion. Somehow PETG really likes to break along "perforations" - this also happens when you have skipping-type underextrusion in a layer.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
<petg>
What OEM is Inland PETG+?
YetAnotherRandomUser
# What OEM is Inland PETG+?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-11-21)

I have a local Microcenter and got some cool orange PETG+. I've never printed with PETG before, but this PETG+ stuff seems flexible and weak. I printed a random part with some thin walls, and when I squeezed it, I broke the thin walls. Interestingly, not across layer lines. The same part in ASA (or ABS? I can't recall) is sufficiently strong and durable, and much less flexible.

I'm reprinting at 100% infill (the first one was 20%), but looking at the place that it broke, I don't see infill. It's ~2 mm thick there, so I'm pretty sure that it's solid. I printed at 240 °C, and my reprint is going at 250 °C.

I'd like to check what this PETG+ stuff is better at than regular PETG, so I'd like to look at what the manufacturer has to say about it, and the rest of the internet. Who makes this?

We know that Inland PLA+ is made by eSun, and when I mentioned that to the local Microcenter 3D printer expert, he said as much too. Here's a [reddit post](https://old.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/ki76dj/inland_petg_is_working_pretty_well_so_far/) speculating.

[Product page](https://www.microcenter.com/product/626527/inland-175mm-orange-petg-3d-printer-filament-1kg-spool-(22-lbs))

**Tags:** petg

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: are you comfortable with the possible hydration of the filament. Of the many types of filament, nylon is severely hygroscopic, with PETG coming in close to the top. If you have a filament dryer or food dehydrator, a dozen hours in the heat may improve the results.  
> **username_0**: I've heard varying degrees of hydrophilia for this kind of filament from "dry it and print from a dry bed" to "store it in a drybox, but it will be fine".  The print looks amazing. I suspect that it's something to do with the part.  I printed another one at 100% infill, and it broke in the same spot, but then if I tried to bend the piece that broke off, it bent, it did not break.  It's breaking with layer lines and bending against it though.  
> **username_2**: I've had really bad experiences with wet PETG. The mechanism of failure is consistent with what OP experienced - water bubbles exploding during extrusion and creating perforations in the extrusion lines rather than just bad layer adhesion. Somehow PETG really likes to break along "perforations" - this also happens when you have skipping-type underextrusion in a layer.  

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_0 on 2021-11-22. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

I talked to the guy at the local Micro Center. He said that Inland PETG+ was OEM'd by eSun, and that Inland PETG was OEM'd by Polymaker.


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