<p>Increasing initial layer flow rate from 100 % to 120 % solved the issue. Part is now stuck firmly to the build plate and also to surrounding brim. I also lowered the nozzle by 0.01 mm, but I think changing initial layer flow rate did the main thing.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/mL2EdclD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Successful print"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/mL2EdclD.jpg" alt="Successful print" title="Successful print" /></a></p>
<p>An updated question would be, how do you know if just your first layer flow rate is too low as opposed to having nozzle set too high for the whole print?</p>
<p>Question opened here: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23461/first-layer-flow-rate-too-low-or-global-nozzle-z-distance-too-large">first layer flow rate too low or global nozzle Z distance too large?</a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-19T11:38:57.243Z
Increasing flow is NEVER needed if the first layer height is correct, and in your case it clearly wasn't, since lines didn't even touch each other, see the gaps. Go back to 100% flow as it should be, and lower another 0.020 mm until the lines touch properly. See https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-14T17:40:49.517Z
2024-07-14T21:29:11.590Z
2024-07-14T21:29:11.590Z
sanjihan
<p>Print your object in single instances at a time. Heat loss is occurring by alternating layer-by-layer between instances of the object, by staying with a single object to completion you have a better chance of preserving your heat soak. You may have the slicer option for <strong>Sequential Print</strong>/<strong>Complete Individual Objects</strong>, but since you're already having problems I feel it would be better to do the job as a single and have more control, rather introduce more factors (the effect of elapsed heated time on your bed fixative, bed temperature change for the new instance first layer) by trying Sequential Print.</p>
<p>I agree that the brim that you are getting is not helping the job, you can try turning off the brim and adding an oversized helper disc scaled to the same footprint to the job in the slicer, and I would further scale its height to two layers. The resulting 2 layer &quot;manual brim&quot; would still be fairly easy to clean off the completed part, but it would better insure that it serves the purpose that the brim is intended to serve, taking into account the gap at the brim and first layer gaps that you are seeing.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-14T08:43:53.460Z
Printing objects one at a time is a great idea and it does improve quality. Thank you.
sanjihan
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-13T12:46:36.610Z
2024-07-13T12:46:36.610Z
Tuill
<p>I am having first layer adhesion to the build surface and warping problems when printing ASA.</p>
<ul>
<li>I am printing in enclosed printer,</li>
<li>build surface is heated to 85 °C 15 min before prinitng (and to 110 °C
when printing),</li>
<li>the bed was cleaned with isopropanol and sprayed with 3DLAC on the
preheated bed right before hitting print,</li>
<li>printer has bed autoleveling and it is done before each print,</li>
<li>I've added lots of brim lines,</li>
<li>nozzle T is 255 °C and print bed T is 110 °C, no cooling fans, other settings are Idea Maker's default apart from 75 % infill density, 30 % infill overlap and 0.21 mm layer height.</li>
</ul>
<p>I am not sure what else could I do in terms of controlling environment.</p>
<p>Here are some images of the print. I noticed that the first layer has gaps between filament lines. Moreover, brim is mostly not even touching the part. I think this is largely an issue with the first layer only. The parts in images were left in the printer for 1.5 hour too cool down slowly and the OK looking one is still bottom warped. I am suspecting my warping issues are due to under extrusion of the first layer. What do you recommend I try next? Printed on Raise 3D E2 on factory BuildTak build plate and sliced with Idea Maker.</p>
<p>My first layer flowrate is 100 % and first layer extrusion width is set to 130 %.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/nSxJF9xP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/nSxJF9xP.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/OZ20vB18.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/OZ20vB18.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/26I5f2vM.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/26I5f2vM.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-13T14:56:53.927Z
3DLAC doesn't work at those high temperatures from my experience, I have experienced exactly the same problems, with Dimafix, which is especially [engineered to be sticky at those higher temperatures](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15282/), I get perfect adhesion. I'll write a proper answer later! Note that I use way larger brims than you!
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-14T13:12:22.640Z
I would suggest putting your "update" as an answer to your question since that resolved your problem. As to your additional question, that would should be posted as a separate question with a link to this one.
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-14T17:26:29.143Z
@0scar ♦ Thank you for linking your answer. great resource.
sanjihan
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-14T17:27:19.040Z
@agarza Will do.
sanjihan
<underextrusion><warping><asa>
How to deal with ASA warping?
sanjihan
# How to deal with ASA warping?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2024-07-13)

I am having first layer adhesion to the build surface and warping problems when printing ASA.

* I am printing in enclosed printer,
* build surface is heated to 85 °C 15 min before prinitng (and to 110 °C
  when printing),
* the bed was cleaned with isopropanol and sprayed with 3DLAC on the
  preheated bed right before hitting print,
* printer has bed autoleveling and it is done before each print,
* I've added lots of brim lines,
* nozzle T is 255 °C and print bed T is 110 °C, no cooling fans, other settings are Idea Maker's default apart from 75 % infill density, 30 % infill overlap and 0.21 mm layer height.

I am not sure what else could I do in terms of controlling environment.

Here are some images of the print. I noticed that the first layer has gaps between filament lines. Moreover, brim is mostly not even touching the part. I think this is largely an issue with the first layer only. The parts in images were left in the printer for 1.5 hour too cool down slowly and the OK looking one is still bottom warped. I am suspecting my warping issues are due to under extrusion of the first layer. What do you recommend I try next? Printed on Raise 3D E2 on factory BuildTak build plate and sliced with Idea Maker.

My first layer flowrate is 100 % and first layer extrusion width is set to 130 %.

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/nSxJF9xP.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/nSxJF9xP.jpg)

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/OZ20vB18.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/OZ20vB18.jpg)

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/26I5f2vM.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/26I5f2vM.jpg)

**Tags:** underextrusion, warping, asa

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: 3DLAC doesn't work at those high temperatures from my experience, I have experienced exactly the same problems, with Dimafix, which is especially [engineered to be sticky at those higher temperatures](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/15282/), I get perfect adhesion. I'll write a proper answer later! Note that I use way larger brims than you!  
> **username_2**: I would suggest putting your "update" as an answer to your question since that resolved your problem. As to your additional question, that would should be posted as a separate question with a link to this one.  
> **username_0**: @username_1 ♦ Thank you for linking your answer. great resource.  
> **username_0**: @username_2 Will do.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_0 on 2024-07-14. Score: 4 | Accepted answer

Increasing initial layer flow rate from 100 % to 120 % solved the issue. Part is now stuck firmly to the build plate and also to surrounding brim. I also lowered the nozzle by 0.01 mm, but I think changing initial layer flow rate did the main thing.

[![Successful print](https://i.sstatic.net/mL2EdclD.jpg "Successful print")](https://i.sstatic.net/mL2EdclD.jpg "Successful print")

An updated question would be, how do you know if just your first layer flow rate is too low as opposed to having nozzle set too high for the whole print?

Question opened here: [first layer flow rate too low or global nozzle Z distance too large?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/23461/first-layer-flow-rate-too-low-or-global-nozzle-z-distance-too-large)

> **Comments:**
> **username_3**: Increasing flow is NEVER needed if the first layer height is correct, and in your case it clearly wasn't, since lines didn't even touch each other, see the gaps. Go back to 100% flow as it should be, and lower another 0.020 mm until the lines touch properly. See https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html  

---

### Answer by username_4 on 2024-07-13. Score: 1

Print your object in single instances at a time. Heat loss is occurring by alternating layer-by-layer between instances of the object, by staying with a single object to completion you have a better chance of preserving your heat soak. You may have the slicer option for **Sequential Print**/**Complete Individual Objects**, but since you're already having problems I feel it would be better to do the job as a single and have more control, rather introduce more factors (the effect of elapsed heated time on your bed fixative, bed temperature change for the new instance first layer) by trying Sequential Print.

I agree that the brim that you are getting is not helping the job, you can try turning off the brim and adding an oversized helper disc scaled to the same footprint to the job in the slicer, and I would further scale its height to two layers. The resulting 2 layer "manual brim" would still be fairly easy to clean off the completed part, but it would better insure that it serves the purpose that the brim is intended to serve, taking into account the gap at the brim and first layer gaps that you are seeing.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Printing objects one at a time is a great idea and it does improve quality. Thank you.  

---

