<p>First of all, I would try printing a little bit hotter, let's say arround 210&nbsp;&deg;C. Secondly, due to how the X and Y letters are being printed in the sides of the cube I would suggest to tigthen both the X and Y belts.</p>

<p>Regarding the gaps, I would first try a flow rate test. You could use a cube like <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2490893" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>.</p>

<p>Using: </p>

<ul>
<li>extrusion multiplier = 1</li>
<li>layer height: 0.2&nbsp;mm; </li>
<li>layer width= 0.4&nbsp;mm ; </li>
<li>wall count= 2. </li>
</ul>

<p>Then measure the walls with a caliper and you should have 0.8&nbsp;mm walls. Do a couple of measurements, get the average and divide  0.8 by it  and multiply by a 100 (100*0.8/average). That's your new flow rate.</p>

<p>I would also try to add 1 or 2 top layers to the print.</p>

<p>For the first layer, I would definitely get a glass bed and use hairspray. The bottom of the pyramid doesn't seem to be sticking well. Apart from this, I'm not really fan of using Z-offset. Just try leveling a couple of times manually with a paper to get it right.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-24T21:49:27.803Z
Also, for stringing try changing the retraction length to 5 mm and ~30 mm/s. See if in your slicer you can turn on the 'Combing' option
Shupper
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-25T07:24:28.233Z
" to how the X and Y letters are being printed in the sides of the cube". How do you recognize this is printed incorrectly and the belts need tuning? Also I've got a heated ceramic bed, shouldn't that suffice? I don't see why a glass bed should be needed
Stefan
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-25T20:10:23.747Z
Okay keep the ceramic bed, but try changing glue for hairspray, I really got better results... For the X and Y letters there's an artifact called ghosting/ripple. Here you can see what's about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaFp6Eqk0QI
Anyways, I think your main issue is flow rate... Try calibrating both this and E-Steps and send new pictures
Shupper
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-27T11:33:05.790Z
Thank you but due to the bed being in an enclosure and being connected by wires I prefer to stick with glue as long as it works. I've uploaded some new prints with the other recommendations in place. Could you give your opinion?
Stefan
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-27T19:15:53.167Z
I think it's much better, first layers and side walls are looking nice. Anyways, you will have to do a flow rate calibration (See the blobs in the X and Y letters)... Get a cheap caliper, it will worth it
 I think you're getting close to solving the problem. You'll just have to find the right slicing settings which is not that easy. Try printing a little bit slower
Shupper
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-05T10:04:42.457Z
The problem got worse now that I've got a new nozzle and filament. It seems to be caused by the extruder. I've dedicated a new [question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13603/how-to-fix-bad-extrusion-thats-likely-caused-by-high-pressure-in-the-nozzle) to this problem. Thank you for the feedback, it did really help in improving the other problems and slicer settings.
Stefan
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-24T20:23:36.500Z
2020-04-25T21:11:39.850Z
2020-04-25T21:11:39.850Z
Shupper
<p>I've got a second-hand Renkforce RF1000 <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13503/hardware-issues-id-appreciate-your-thoughts-on/">which I've gone into more detail about in this question</a>.</p>

<p>The extruder works however, I get some inconsistent results. First I printed a calibration cube and noticed huge gaps in the bottom layer. Because of this, I increased the extrusion multiplier to 1.05. I noticed there still were some gaps but also other issues, I then printed one with the extrusion multiplier reset to 1.0 and a negative Z-offset. The results are shown below. In every image, the left cube has multiplier 1.0 and the right cube has multiplier 1.05.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Ck0aI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Ck0aI.jpg" alt="Calibration cube results"></a></p>

<p>Then, for a better idea about the consistency, I printed a hollow pyramid. This shows some heavy stringing. However, when printing a retraction test I barely get any stringing.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/6k7P7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/6k7P7.jpg" alt="Pyramid front"></a></p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/xVr9R.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/xVr9R.jpg" alt="Pyramid bottom"></a></p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/PKOB1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/PKOB1.jpg" alt="Stringing test"></a></p>

<p>Does anyone know what could cause these inconsistent results? I assume some hardware tweaks might be needed, not just slicer settings. Any help is appreciated.</p>

<ul>
<li>I use Slic3r</li>
<li>I use 3&nbsp;mm PLA printed at 190&nbsp;°C on a 60&nbsp;°C bed with some glue (doesn't stick without). The first layer is 200&nbsp;°C with a 65&nbsp;°C bed.</li>
<li>After three layers the fans are enabled. </li>
<li>I have a negative Z-offset, it probably isn't calibrated 100&nbsp;% correctly</li>
<li>I don't know the nozzle size (a new one is being shipped) but use a size of 0.5&nbsp;mm in the slicer</li>
<li>retraction length 2&nbsp;mm &amp; 60&nbsp;mm/s</li>
<li>minimum travel after retraction 1&nbsp;mm</li>
</ul>

<p>Print settings:
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/BDarM.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/BDarM.png" alt="Settings"></a></p>

<p>EDIT:
After the recommendations I've changed the following:</p>

<ul>
<li>All belts have been recalibrated</li>
<li>The e-steps have been recalibrated through <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> method. Couldn't do a wall measurement due to a lack of precise tools. </li>
<li>Changed first layer temperature to 210&nbsp;&deg;C and other layers to 205&nbsp;&deg;C</li>
<li>Added two top layers</li>
</ul>

<p>I printed two new cubes. One without glue and with a Z-offset of 0.05&nbsp;mm and one with glue and with a Z-offset of 0.15&nbsp;mm. The results are quite comparable to the original ones although slightly better. Any recommendations? </p>

<p>I'm aware of some cooling issues on my prints. Once a new nozzle arrives I plan on printing the <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2239814" rel="nofollow noreferrer">current cooling system</a> again. It's not really blowing air right effectively now. </p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/3nAbj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/3nAbj.jpg" alt="Cubes from below. Offset written on the bottom"></a>
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/DDwb8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/DDwb8.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/HM3FS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/HM3FS.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<pla><slic3r><renkforce-rf1000>
Inconsistent printing results using same settings but different calibration models
Stefan
# Inconsistent printing results using same settings but different calibration models

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-04-24)

I've got a second-hand Renkforce RF1000 [which I've gone into more detail about in this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13503/hardware-issues-id-appreciate-your-thoughts-on/).

The extruder works however, I get some inconsistent results. First I printed a calibration cube and noticed huge gaps in the bottom layer. Because of this, I increased the extrusion multiplier to 1.05. I noticed there still were some gaps but also other issues, I then printed one with the extrusion multiplier reset to 1.0 and a negative Z-offset. The results are shown below. In every image, the left cube has multiplier 1.0 and the right cube has multiplier 1.05.

[![Calibration cube results](https://i.sstatic.net/Ck0aI.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/Ck0aI.jpg)

Then, for a better idea about the consistency, I printed a hollow pyramid. This shows some heavy stringing. However, when printing a retraction test I barely get any stringing.

[![Pyramid front](https://i.sstatic.net/6k7P7.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/6k7P7.jpg)

[![Pyramid bottom](https://i.sstatic.net/xVr9R.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/xVr9R.jpg)

[![Stringing test](https://i.sstatic.net/PKOB1.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/PKOB1.jpg)

Does anyone know what could cause these inconsistent results? I assume some hardware tweaks might be needed, not just slicer settings. Any help is appreciated.

* I use Slic3r
* I use 3 mm PLA printed at 190 °C on a 60 °C bed with some glue (doesn't stick without). The first layer is 200 °C with a 65 °C bed.
* After three layers the fans are enabled.
* I have a negative Z-offset, it probably isn't calibrated 100 % correctly
* I don't know the nozzle size (a new one is being shipped) but use a size of 0.5 mm in the slicer
* retraction length 2 mm & 60 mm/s
* minimum travel after retraction 1 mm

Print settings:
[![Settings](https://i.sstatic.net/BDarM.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/BDarM.png)

EDIT:
After the recommendations I've changed the following:

* All belts have been recalibrated
* The e-steps have been recalibrated through [this](https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/) method. Couldn't do a wall measurement due to a lack of precise tools.
* Changed first layer temperature to 210 °C and other layers to 205 °C
* Added two top layers

I printed two new cubes. One without glue and with a Z-offset of 0.05 mm and one with glue and with a Z-offset of 0.15 mm. The results are quite comparable to the original ones although slightly better. Any recommendations?

I'm aware of some cooling issues on my prints. Once a new nozzle arrives I plan on printing the [current cooling system](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2239814) again. It's not really blowing air right effectively now.

[![Cubes from below. Offset written on the bottom](https://i.sstatic.net/3nAbj.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/3nAbj.jpg)
[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/DDwb8.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/DDwb8.jpg)
[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/HM3FS.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/HM3FS.jpg)

**Tags:** pla, slic3r, renkforce-rf1000


---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2020-04-24. Score: 1

First of all, I would try printing a little bit hotter, let's say arround 210 °C. Secondly, due to how the X and Y letters are being printed in the sides of the cube I would suggest to tigthen both the X and Y belts.

Regarding the gaps, I would first try a flow rate test. You could use a cube like [this one](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2490893).

Using:

* extrusion multiplier = 1
* layer height: 0.2 mm;
* layer width= 0.4 mm ;
* wall count= 2.

Then measure the walls with a caliper and you should have 0.8 mm walls. Do a couple of measurements, get the average and divide 0.8 by it and multiply by a 100 (100\*0.8/average). That's your new flow rate.

I would also try to add 1 or 2 top layers to the print.

For the first layer, I would definitely get a glass bed and use hairspray. The bottom of the pyramid doesn't seem to be sticking well. Apart from this, I'm not really fan of using Z-offset. Just try leveling a couple of times manually with a paper to get it right.

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Also, for stringing try changing the retraction length to 5 mm and ~30 mm/s. See if in your slicer you can turn on the 'Combing' option  
> **username_0**: " to how the X and Y letters are being printed in the sides of the cube". How do you recognize this is printed incorrectly and the belts need tuning? Also I've got a heated ceramic bed, shouldn't that suffice? I don't see why a glass bed should be needed  
> **username_1**: Okay keep the ceramic bed, but try changing glue for hairspray, I really got better results... For the X and Y letters there's an artifact called ghosting/ripple. Here you can see what's about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaFp6Eqk0QI Anyways, I think your main issue is flow rate... Try calibrating both this and E-Steps and send new pictures  
> **username_0**: Thank you but due to the bed being in an enclosure and being connected by wires I prefer to stick with glue as long as it works. I've uploaded some new prints with the other recommendations in place. Could you give your opinion?  
> **username_1**: I think it's much better, first layers and side walls are looking nice. Anyways, you will have to do a flow rate calibration (See the blobs in the X and Y letters)... Get a cheap caliper, it will worth it  I think you're getting close to solving the problem. You'll just have to find the right slicing settings which is not that easy. Try printing a little bit slower  
> **username_0**: The problem got worse now that I've got a new nozzle and filament. It seems to be caused by the extruder. I've dedicated a new [question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13603/how-to-fix-bad-extrusion-thats-likely-caused-by-high-pressure-in-the-nozzle) to this problem. Thank you for the feedback, it did really help in improving the other problems and slicer settings.  

---

