<p>Thank you for all your answers! After many failed benchies I fixed the problem now, however I don't know exactly what the problem was so I'll list everything I did:</p>
<ul>
<li>Dried my filament</li>
<li>Recalibrated the Z-Offset</li>
<li>Turned around my print bed, as I noticed the warp always starts at a
certain spot</li>
</ul>
<p>The high temperature is actually a recommendation by the manufacturer (PM Filaments).</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-19T16:57:23.770Z
2021-05-19T16:57:23.770Z
Johannes
<p>Yes you can edit many parameters in Cura that may help with your problem.</p>
<p>However, I believe an easier fix to this problem may be to either apply some glue or masking tape to the bed before you try to change Cura settings since the problem only occurs with just one filament type..</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-11T11:28:23.117Z
2021-05-11T11:28:23.117Z
jlmalcolm
<p>Your temperatures look pretty good.  You could try raising both bed temperatures by 5°C.</p>
<p>You could try Elmer's glue stick or hair spray.</p>
<p>Make sure your Z height is still OK as well as your bed being level after you loaded the different filament.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-12T18:11:48.950Z
2021-05-19T17:30:27.050Z
2021-05-19T17:30:27.050Z
Perry Webb
<p>Today I ran into an issue with the filament not sticking to the build plate. However, the strange part is, that this only happens with one filament color (both PLA, khaki, black works just fine) and only in the main print. The test line on the side of the bed and the brim all stick without a problem. I already releveled everything and as I'm using ABL and the other filament works fine, this shouldn't be the issue.</p>
<p>I also tried increasing the first layer thickness in Cura, however, this leads to extreme warp (2 mm height on 5 mm width).</p>
<p>From my observations, it seems that the print head is raised after the brim is printed. Is there a setting in Cura to change that?</p>
<p><strong>Printer Details:</strong> Modified Ender-3 with MKS Gen L V2 Board and TMC 2209 motor drivers and BLTouch<br />
<strong>Print temp:</strong> 220 °C / 70 °C initial after that 200 °C / 60 °C<br />
<strong>Firmware:</strong> Marlin, details <a href="https://github.com/MasterPuffin/MKS-GEN-L-V2-Marlin-Firmware-for-Ender-3/tree/BLTouch" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-11T17:35:57.143Z
If you suspect that head is raised after printing brim, then you should analyze the g-code and detect actual increase of Z. It is rather easy searching by " Z". Then check comments nearby. Btw. what if you print with e.g. 190 initial temp?
octopus8
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-11T18:57:05.623Z
220 deg C seems too hot for PLA. Try 190 and 200. Also sometimes it’s the slicer. For months I tried using simplify3d before realising that anything sliced by it would never work with my printer. Switched to prusaslicer and I get flawless prints every single time now.
electrophile
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-12T20:07:36.823Z
Have you tried drying the filament?
Andrew Morton
<marlin><pla><adhesion>
Print not sticking to bed
Johannes
# Print not sticking to bed

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-05-10)

Today I ran into an issue with the filament not sticking to the build plate. However, the strange part is, that this only happens with one filament color (both PLA, khaki, black works just fine) and only in the main print. The test line on the side of the bed and the brim all stick without a problem. I already releveled everything and as I'm using ABL and the other filament works fine, this shouldn't be the issue.

I also tried increasing the first layer thickness in Cura, however, this leads to extreme warp (2 mm height on 5 mm width).

From my observations, it seems that the print head is raised after the brim is printed. Is there a setting in Cura to change that?

**Printer Details:** Modified Ender-3 with MKS Gen L V2 Board and TMC 2209 motor drivers and BLTouch  
**Print temp:** 220 °C / 70 °C initial after that 200 °C / 60 °C  
**Firmware:** Marlin, details [here](https://github.com/MasterPuffin/MKS-GEN-L-V2-Marlin-Firmware-for-Ender-3/tree/BLTouch)

**Tags:** marlin, pla, adhesion

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: If you suspect that head is raised after printing brim, then you should analyze the g-code and detect actual increase of Z. It is rather easy searching by " Z". Then check comments nearby. Btw. what if you print with e.g. 190 initial temp?  
> **username_2**: 220 deg C seems too hot for PLA. Try 190 and 200. Also sometimes it’s the slicer. For months I tried using simplify3d before realising that anything sliced by it would never work with my printer. Switched to prusaslicer and I get flawless prints every single time now.  
> **username_3**: Have you tried drying the filament?  

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_0 on 2021-05-19. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

Thank you for all your answers! After many failed benchies I fixed the problem now, however I don't know exactly what the problem was so I'll list everything I did:

* Dried my filament
* Recalibrated the Z-Offset
* Turned around my print bed, as I noticed the warp always starts at a
  certain spot

The high temperature is actually a recommendation by the manufacturer (PM Filaments).


---

### Answer by username_4 on 2021-05-11. Score: 2

Yes you can edit many parameters in Cura that may help with your problem.

However, I believe an easier fix to this problem may be to either apply some glue or masking tape to the bed before you try to change Cura settings since the problem only occurs with just one filament type..


---

### Answer by username_5 on 2021-05-12. Score: 1

Your temperatures look pretty good. You could try raising both bed temperatures by 5°C.

You could try Elmer's glue stick or hair spray.

Make sure your Z height is still OK as well as your bed being level after you loaded the different filament.


---

