<p>Go for the P3Steel v4 (20x30). The extra print area is worth it. There is a Polish supplier, <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/printo3d" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Printo3D</a>, on eBay that has the cheapest frame, and parts - cheaper than the Spanish supplier. That is where I got mine from. See <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frame-Prusa-I3-P3Steel-v-4-0-300mm-x-200-mm/182550025648" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v 4.0, 300mm x 200 mm</a>, which costs around £80.</p>
<p>This kit uses 10 mm smooth rods for the Y axis:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Smooth stainless steel rods:</p>
<ul>
<li>2x Ø8x385 mm for X-Axis</li>
<li>2x Ø8x320 mm for Z-Axis</li>
<li>2x Ø10x520 mm for Y-Axis</li>
</ul>
<p>Threaded stainless steel rods:</p>
<ul>
<li>2x M5x300 mm</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p>With respect to the Y-axis carriage, the steel carriage does add a lot of weight/inertia, you are correct. This may or may not be an issue, depending on your steppers motors that you choose<sup>1</sup>, and their torque. That said, the 3 mm steel print bed/Y-axis carriage, <em>is</em> ridiculously heavy, and it would be most wise to substitute it for an aluminium, plywood, or some other lightweight solution.</p>
<p>Apart from that the 3 mm steel frame is fine and as solid as a rock. There are a number of aluminium 20x30 print beds/Y-axis carriages available on eBay and Amazon. A thorough search should reveal a few. There are also composite Y-axis carriages, I found a supplier in the Ukraine, <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/tehnologika_net" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tehnologika_net</a>, who, <em>last year</em>, had a number of different types at a reasonable cost - in fact they were the cheapest that I found.</p>
<p>As an aside, I built mine sourcing all of the parts separately. It was a bit of a task, but an educative one. The process certainly made me understand the ins and outs a lot better than purchasing a ready built, or complete kit, 3D printer.</p>
<p>I have written up some blogs regarding the kit that I purchased, see <a href="https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2017/01/06/p3steel-from-poland-a-tale-of-dispair-dismay-and-woe/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">P3Steel from Poland – A tale of despair, dismay and woe</a>. Ignore the depressing title, it really isn't that bad.</p>
<p>See also <a href="https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2016/11/22/heatbeds/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Heatbeds</a>. At the bottom there are some links to various alternative Y-axis carriages. However, some of the links/items may no longer be available.</p>
<p>You may also find this question of mine useful, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3015/z-axis-top-brackets-of-p3steel-differ-between-v1-x-2-x-and-v4">Z axis top brackets, of P3Steel, differ between v1.x/2.x and v4</a>.</p>
<hr />
<p>There are a number of modifications to the standard P3Steel, that may well be worth considering. In particular, you should note the Toolsen Edition MK2, see <a href="http://scheuten.me/?page_id=708" rel="nofollow noreferrer">P3steel toolson edition MK2</a> (in German), and <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1054909" rel="nofollow noreferrer">P3steel - toolson edition</a>. I have written about these, and more, see <a href="https://wordpress.com/post/gr33nonline.wordpress.com/8336" rel="nofollow noreferrer">P3Steel version 4 modifications</a>. In summary, these are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Bowden extruders</li>
<li>Endstops</li>
<li>Endstops by Toolsen</li>
<li>Optical Endstops by Toolsen</li>
<li>Idlers by Toolsen</li>
<li>Extruder by NWRepRap</li>
<li>Lead screws</li>
<li>Aluminium/Composite Y-axis carriage</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<p><sup>1</sup> I got the Rattm 17HS8401 steppers. See RepRapWiki - <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Nema17</a>. The recommended steppers are high torque:</p>
<ul>
<li>Kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803;</li>
<li>Rattm 17HS8401, and;</li>
<li>Wantai 42BYGHW609</li>
</ul>
<blockquote>
<p>However, motors close to NEMA 17 size, with approximately the
following specifications, can also work:</p>
<ul>
<li>1.5A to 1.8A current per phase</li>
<li>1-4 volts</li>
<li>3 to 8 mH inductance per phase</li>
<li>44 N·cm (62oz·in, 4.5kg·cm) or more holding torque</li>
<li>1.8 or 0.9 degrees per step (200/400 steps/rev respectively)</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-04T06:49:35.050Z
thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for. And I suspected that steel carriage would be overly heavy; thank you for confirming.
Jonathan Bayer
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-04T06:57:16.127Z
Do you know what specifications the stepper motor would need for the y-carriage? I bought a working but otherwise terrible https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/full-acrylic-reprap-prusa-i3-kit off a friend for 60$ with the idea of using the non-frame parts for my p3steel build. I'm not sure what the specifications on the motor are though; or for that matter what the desired specifications are.
Jonathan Bayer
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-04T09:09:03.317Z
@JonathanBayer - I got the Rattm 17HS8401 steppers. See [Nema17](http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor). The recommended steppers are high torque (44 N·cm (62oz·in, 4.5kg·cm) or more holding torque): `Kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803, Rattm 17HS8401, and Wantai 42BYGHW609`. I have updated my answer with this information.
Greenonline
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-04T00:53:12.893Z
2017-05-04T09:05:27.260Z
2020-06-18T08:29:41.667Z
Greenonline
<p>I'm building a new printer after having an Anet A8 for about two months and getting a feel for what I want. I'm planning to buy a P3Steel frame; but can't decide which version to get. </p>

<p>There are one or two prints I would like to make that are larger than 20&nbsp;cm in length; but I could always do these in multiple pieces. </p>

<p>What I'm wondering is how serious are the trade-offs I would be making for a larger bed? I would think I would need thicker linear rods for the 510&nbsp;mm length y-axis; and the bed would also have a large amount of inertia so that could slow down printing. Does anyone have any experience with this size bed in a moving y-carriage scenario? Also how thick of rods should I get? Orballo printing is saying 8&nbsp;mm is fine but the research I've done implies that you shouldn't really go over 200-250&nbsp;mm unsupported for that width. </p>

<prusa-i3><mechanics><p3steel>
P3Steel v4 w/ 20x30 cm bed, or 2.5.1 w/ 20x20
Jonathan Bayer
# P3Steel v4 w/ 20x30 cm bed, or 2.5.1 w/ 20x20

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-05-03)

I'm building a new printer after having an Anet A8 for about two months and getting a feel for what I want. I'm planning to buy a P3Steel frame; but can't decide which version to get.

There are one or two prints I would like to make that are larger than 20 cm in length; but I could always do these in multiple pieces.

What I'm wondering is how serious are the trade-offs I would be making for a larger bed? I would think I would need thicker linear rods for the 510 mm length y-axis; and the bed would also have a large amount of inertia so that could slow down printing. Does anyone have any experience with this size bed in a moving y-carriage scenario? Also how thick of rods should I get? Orballo printing is saying 8 mm is fine but the research I've done implies that you shouldn't really go over 200-250 mm unsupported for that width.

**Tags:** prusa-i3, mechanics, p3steel


---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2017-05-04. Score: 0 | Accepted answer

Go for the P3Steel v4 (20x30). The extra print area is worth it. There is a Polish supplier, [Printo3D](http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/printo3d), on eBay that has the cheapest frame, and parts - cheaper than the Spanish supplier. That is where I got mine from. See [Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v 4.0, 300mm x 200 mm](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frame-Prusa-I3-P3Steel-v-4-0-300mm-x-200-mm/182550025648), which costs around £80.

This kit uses 10 mm smooth rods for the Y axis:

> Smooth stainless steel rods:
>
> * 2x Ø8x385 mm for X-Axis
> * 2x Ø8x320 mm for Z-Axis
> * 2x Ø10x520 mm for Y-Axis
>
> Threaded stainless steel rods:
>
> * 2x M5x300 mm

With respect to the Y-axis carriage, the steel carriage does add a lot of weight/inertia, you are correct. This may or may not be an issue, depending on your steppers motors that you choose1, and their torque. That said, the 3 mm steel print bed/Y-axis carriage, *is* ridiculously heavy, and it would be most wise to substitute it for an aluminium, plywood, or some other lightweight solution.

Apart from that the 3 mm steel frame is fine and as solid as a rock. There are a number of aluminium 20x30 print beds/Y-axis carriages available on eBay and Amazon. A thorough search should reveal a few. There are also composite Y-axis carriages, I found a supplier in the Ukraine, [tehnologika\_net](http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/tehnologika_net), who, *last year*, had a number of different types at a reasonable cost - in fact they were the cheapest that I found.

As an aside, I built mine sourcing all of the parts separately. It was a bit of a task, but an educative one. The process certainly made me understand the ins and outs a lot better than purchasing a ready built, or complete kit, 3D printer.

I have written up some blogs regarding the kit that I purchased, see [P3Steel from Poland – A tale of despair, dismay and woe](https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2017/01/06/p3steel-from-poland-a-tale-of-dispair-dismay-and-woe/). Ignore the depressing title, it really isn't that bad.

See also [Heatbeds](https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2016/11/22/heatbeds/). At the bottom there are some links to various alternative Y-axis carriages. However, some of the links/items may no longer be available.

You may also find this question of mine useful, [Z axis top brackets, of P3Steel, differ between v1.x/2.x and v4](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3015/z-axis-top-brackets-of-p3steel-differ-between-v1-x-2-x-and-v4).

---

There are a number of modifications to the standard P3Steel, that may well be worth considering. In particular, you should note the Toolsen Edition MK2, see [P3steel toolson edition MK2](http://scheuten.me/?page_id=708) (in German), and [P3steel - toolson edition](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1054909). I have written about these, and more, see [P3Steel version 4 modifications](https://wordpress.com/post/gr33nonline.wordpress.com/8336). In summary, these are:

* Bowden extruders
* Endstops
* Endstops by Toolsen
* Optical Endstops by Toolsen
* Idlers by Toolsen
* Extruder by NWRepRap
* Lead screws
* Aluminium/Composite Y-axis carriage

---

1 I got the Rattm 17HS8401 steppers. See RepRapWiki - [Nema17](http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor). The recommended steppers are high torque:

* Kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803;
* Rattm 17HS8401, and;
* Wantai 42BYGHW609

> However, motors close to NEMA 17 size, with approximately the
> following specifications, can also work:
>
> * 1.5A to 1.8A current per phase
> * 1-4 volts
> * 3 to 8 mH inductance per phase
> * 44 N·cm (62oz·in, 4.5kg·cm) or more holding torque
> * 1.8 or 0.9 degrees per step (200/400 steps/rev respectively)

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for. And I suspected that steel carriage would be overly heavy; thank you for confirming.  
> **username_0**: Do you know what specifications the stepper motor would need for the y-carriage? I bought a working but otherwise terrible https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/full-acrylic-reprap-prusa-i3-kit off a friend for 60$ with the idea of using the non-frame parts for my p3steel build. I'm not sure what the specifications on the motor are though; or for that matter what the desired specifications are.  
> **username_1**: @username_0 - I got the Rattm 17HS8401 steppers. See [Nema17](http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor). The recommended steppers are high torque (44 N·cm (62oz·in, 4.5kg·cm) or more holding torque): `Kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803, Rattm 17HS8401, and Wantai 42BYGHW609`. I have updated my answer with this information.  

---

