<p>The terminal block for the power supply has fried on the motherboard (it's a v2.5.2, as you can see below). I'm not sure why this incident occurred, but my guess is there was some electric arc because of the poor assembly of the whole device. It's not the first time I've found issues here and there on my 3D printer. Most of the time, I manage to fix them, but here, it's a bit tricky.</p>
<p>Before the incident, during the last printings, I could smell some unusual burn odor around the power supply/control device. My guess is it started to heat, increasing resistance, increasing heat, and so on. The plastic melted, so there was no more electric isolation, causing a possible short circuit.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/VCTG0nnt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the motherboard with fried power supply terminal block"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/VCTG0nnt.jpg" alt="Photo of the motherboard with fried power supply terminal block" title="Photo of the motherboard with fried power supply terminal block" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/UDdHChvE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Close-up photo of the fried power supply terminal block"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/UDdHChvE.jpg" alt="Close-up photo of the fried power supply terminal block" title="Close-up photo of the fried power supply terminal block" /></a></p>
<p>Apart from this somewhat impressive damage, I don't see any degradation of any component on the motherboard or the power supply block (which I've also opened for a quick check), so I was confident when replacing the terminal block and rewiring all of this properly, which I did.</p>
<p>Everything now looks fine. Indeed, the 3D printer turns on, there is a blue LED indicator shining, and fans are blowing, but the screen is not turned on—it is all black.</p>
<p>I'm afraid that the damage caused by the electric arc is deeper than expected. I don't know how to investigate at this point.</p>
<p>In the worst case, I should buy both a screen and a brand new motherboard but the v2.5.2 is no longer manufactured and it has become quite hard to find some replacement parts at a reasonable price.</p>
<p>Despite all the pains and issues with this 3D printer, I really love it and I would like to repair it as much as I can and keep it working as long as it can so any advice, help, tips, or questions are welcome.</p>
<p><strong>EDIT 30 NOVEMBER 2024 :</strong></p>
<p>I've received a replacement screen. Tested with both old and new wires. It's still turned off ...  I'm afraid that the chances that the mother board is damaged beyond repair increase dramatically ...</p>
<p>I've noticed there is two LEDs <strong>D1</strong> and <strong>D2</strong> on the mother board. When the printer is turned on only <strong>D1</strong> is bright. D4 remains dead.</p>
<p>Is this helpful or does it provide any hints about the mother board states ? If someone has a working and similar printer could it give a look to theses LEDS while turned on ?</p>
<p><strong>EDIT 08 DECEMBER 2024</strong> : Yes, D4 should be turned on : I got a second hand motherboard and when running the printer D4 LED is bright.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/UmSkiSxE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/UmSkiSxE.jpg" alt="Close up of D1 and D4" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/19jbIgN3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/19jbIgN3.jpg" alt="D1 being bright" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-11-30T13:18:24.580Z
Poor connectors and a high current cause these problems. You should replace the main board, you can practically use any Creality board, make sure it has the correct amount of stepper drivers and enough ports for fans, heaters endstops, etc. I would have guessed the screen survived. You could also source for a nice Black Friday deal to replace the printer.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-12-08T12:59:17.520Z
I managed to replace the mother board, but the bed temperature display 318° so I guess it has fried as well ...

Also for some unknown reason I cannot change home offset setting. It doesn't save new setting when I try to do so ...
Denis
<creality-cr-10><creality>
Creality CR-10 v2 with fried terminal block still has the screen off despite repair
Denis
# Creality CR-10 v2 with fried terminal block still has the screen off despite repair

(Asked by: username_0 on 2024-11-24)

The terminal block for the power supply has fried on the motherboard (it's a v2.5.2, as you can see below). I'm not sure why this incident occurred, but my guess is there was some electric arc because of the poor assembly of the whole device. It's not the first time I've found issues here and there on my 3D printer. Most of the time, I manage to fix them, but here, it's a bit tricky.

Before the incident, during the last printings, I could smell some unusual burn odor around the power supply/control device. My guess is it started to heat, increasing resistance, increasing heat, and so on. The plastic melted, so there was no more electric isolation, causing a possible short circuit.

[![Photo of the motherboard with fried power supply terminal block](https://i.sstatic.net/VCTG0nnt.jpg "Photo of the motherboard with fried power supply terminal block")](https://i.sstatic.net/VCTG0nnt.jpg "Photo of the motherboard with fried power supply terminal block")

[![Close-up photo of the fried power supply terminal block](https://i.sstatic.net/UDdHChvE.jpg "Close-up photo of the fried power supply terminal block")](https://i.sstatic.net/UDdHChvE.jpg "Close-up photo of the fried power supply terminal block")

Apart from this somewhat impressive damage, I don't see any degradation of any component on the motherboard or the power supply block (which I've also opened for a quick check), so I was confident when replacing the terminal block and rewiring all of this properly, which I did.

Everything now looks fine. Indeed, the 3D printer turns on, there is a blue LED indicator shining, and fans are blowing, but the screen is not turned on—it is all black.

I'm afraid that the damage caused by the electric arc is deeper than expected. I don't know how to investigate at this point.

In the worst case, I should buy both a screen and a brand new motherboard but the v2.5.2 is no longer manufactured and it has become quite hard to find some replacement parts at a reasonable price.

Despite all the pains and issues with this 3D printer, I really love it and I would like to repair it as much as I can and keep it working as long as it can so any advice, help, tips, or questions are welcome.

**EDIT 30 NOVEMBER 2024 :**

I've received a replacement screen. Tested with both old and new wires. It's still turned off ... I'm afraid that the chances that the mother board is damaged beyond repair increase dramatically ...

I've noticed there is two LEDs **D1** and **D2** on the mother board. When the printer is turned on only **D1** is bright. D4 remains dead.

Is this helpful or does it provide any hints about the mother board states ? If someone has a working and similar printer could it give a look to theses LEDS while turned on ?

**EDIT 08 DECEMBER 2024** : Yes, D4 should be turned on : I got a second hand motherboard and when running the printer D4 LED is bright.

[![Close up of D1 and D4](https://i.sstatic.net/UmSkiSxE.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/UmSkiSxE.jpg)

[![D1 being bright](https://i.sstatic.net/19jbIgN3.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/19jbIgN3.jpg)

**Tags:** creality-cr-10, creality

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Poor connectors and a high current cause these problems. You should replace the main board, you can practically use any Creality board, make sure it has the correct amount of stepper drivers and enough ports for fans, heaters endstops, etc. I would have guessed the screen survived. You could also source for a nice Black Friday deal to replace the printer.  
> **username_0**: I managed to replace the mother board, but the bed temperature display 318° so I guess it has fried as well ...  Also for some unknown reason I cannot change home offset setting. It doesn't save new setting when I try to do so ...  

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## 0 answers

