<p>Turns out the blower on the extruder was not plugged in at the factory. Now it's printing fine. Thank you all for the help and support. <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/qNkBE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/qNkBE.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-27T11:16:51.657Z
totally missed that the fan could be off! but the temp drop surely did increase the print quality on its own already.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-28T08:12:36.587Z
As I said I'm my answer: `with not enough cooling.`! Good that you found the plug! :)
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-25T19:40:49.940Z
2019-01-25T19:40:49.940Z
Harrison Parker
<p>You print too hot and probably with not enough cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temperature at least 10&nbsp;&deg;C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190&nbsp;&deg;C, also 65&nbsp;&deg;C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60&nbsp;&deg;C,</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-24T09:11:37.053Z
At 190°, the print was terrible. Pictured below was printed at 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked.
Harrison
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-19T15:55:05.373Z
2019-01-19T21:26:55.370Z
2019-01-19T21:26:55.370Z
0scar
<p>The artifact your bow clearly shows is usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.</p>

<p>You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5° steps. I print my PLA usually at 200&nbsp;°C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60&nbsp;°C is the usual temperature in many machines.</p>

<p>When I unpack 210&nbsp;°C that's only in conjunction with 100&nbsp;% infill and deliberate over-extrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that condition I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.</p>

<p>It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts - and check if all fans are on.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-19T15:55:58.613Z
2019-01-27T11:16:08.847Z
2019-01-27T11:16:08.847Z
Trish
<p>If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can <strong>improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower</strong>.</p>

<p>If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Ultimaker Cura there is a setting in the <em>Experimental</em> section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/eg83k.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/eg83k.png" alt="cura settings"></a></p>

<p>(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-24T09:01:36.820Z
My speed was 100. Reduced to 50 for most successful print see pic below.
Harrison
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-19T18:34:39.223Z
2019-01-19T21:21:33.397Z
2019-01-19T21:21:33.397Z
AndreKR
<p>Try to re-compile the gcode, sometimes the slicer "freaks out" whilst writing the file. Which slicer are you using? (Cura, Slic3r, Repetier, etc.)</p>

<p>I sometimes have that errors, and giving that they do seem quite consistent in shape in the pics I would say that's the issue.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-25T11:56:31.507Z
2019-01-28T07:05:21.380Z
2019-01-28T07:05:21.380Z
miguelpicris
<p>I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy  print:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/rhJhL.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/rhJhL.jpg" alt="Benchy showing printing defects"></a></p>

<p>Any suggestions are appreciated.</p>

<ul>
<li>Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700&nbsp;mm)</li>
<li>Bed Temp: 65&nbsp;&deg;C</li>
<li>Extruder Temp: 210&nbsp;&deg;C</li>
<li>Filament: PLA (1.75&nbsp;mm) right out of the package (came with printer from
Formbot)</li>
<li>200 degrees extruder; 60-degree hotbed - print success, bow issue
persists. speed: 100</li>
<li>fade height: 0</li>
<li>nozzle: 200</li>
<li>bed: 60</li>
<li>fan speed: 255</li>
<li>flow: 100 probe offset: -1.4</li>
</ul>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/hxVrS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/hxVrS.jpg" alt="Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?"></a></p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/5oLV6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/5oLV6.jpg" alt="Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-19T16:01:54.957Z
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-19T16:11:39.840Z
Possible duplicate of [Calibration improvement of the prusa I3](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7671/calibration-improvement-of-the-prusa-i3)
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-19T18:36:55.283Z
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
AndreKR
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-19T18:51:52.353Z
Too much temperature, try at 195 °C.
Fernando Baltazar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-24T09:29:27.237Z
Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?
Harrison
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-24T09:33:51.280Z
sadly the new pictures are barely visible. More light is needed, and an indicator which benchy you mean. is the white the one before and the black the new one? it would be better to have both in the same color.
Trish
<print-quality><troubleshooting>
3DBenchy's bow prints out of alignment
Harrison
# 3DBenchy's bow prints out of alignment

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-01-19)

I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:

[![Benchy showing printing defects](https://i.sstatic.net/rhJhL.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/rhJhL.jpg)

Any suggestions are appreciated.

* Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)
* Bed Temp: 65 °C
* Extruder Temp: 210 °C
* Filament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from
  Formbot)
* 200 degrees extruder; 60-degree hotbed - print success, bow issue
  persists. speed: 100
* fade height: 0
* nozzle: 200
* bed: 60
* fan speed: 255
* flow: 100 probe offset: -1.4

[![Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?](https://i.sstatic.net/hxVrS.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/hxVrS.jpg)

[![Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?](https://i.sstatic.net/5oLV6.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/5oLV6.jpg)

**Tags:** print-quality, troubleshooting

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Hi username_0, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!  
> **username_1**: Possible duplicate of [Calibration improvement of the prusa I3](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7671/calibration-improvement-of-the-prusa-i3)  
> **username_2**: You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.  
> **username_3**: Too much temperature, try at 195 °C.  
> **username_0**: Best results so far: 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked. Not sure where to go?  
> **username_4**: sadly the new pictures are barely visible. More light is needed, and an indicator which benchy you mean. is the white the one before and the black the new one? it would be better to have both in the same color.  

---

## 5 answers

### Answer by username_5 on 2019-01-25. Score: 3

Turns out the blower on the extruder was not plugged in at the factory. Now it's printing fine. Thank you all for the help and support. [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/qNkBE.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/qNkBE.jpg)

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: totally missed that the fan could be off! but the temp drop surely did increase the print quality on its own already.  
> **username_1**: As I said I'm my answer: `with not enough cooling.`! Good that you found the plug! :)  

---

### Answer by username_1 on 2019-01-19. Score: 3

You print too hot and probably with not enough cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temperature at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: At 190°, the print was terrible. Pictured below was printed at 200°, 60° hotbed, 50 speed. Best yet settings still need to be tweaked.  

---

### Answer by username_4 on 2019-01-19. Score: 2

The artifact your bow clearly shows is usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.

You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5° steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.

When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100 % infill and deliberate over-extrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that condition I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.

It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts - and check if all fans are on.


---

### Answer by username_2 on 2019-01-19. Score: 2

If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can **improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower**.

If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Ultimaker Cura there is a setting in the *Experimental* section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:

[![cura settings](https://i.sstatic.net/eg83k.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/eg83k.png)

(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: My speed was 100. Reduced to 50 for most successful print see pic below.  

---

### Answer by username_6 on 2019-01-25. Score: 1

Try to re-compile the gcode, sometimes the slicer "freaks out" whilst writing the file. Which slicer are you using? (Cura, Slic3r, Repetier, etc.)

I sometimes have that errors, and giving that they do seem quite consistent in shape in the pics I would say that's the issue.


---

