<p>This depends on the nozzle diameter, the layer thickness, and the material. </p>

<p>I've made very good M8 and acceptable M6 threads (nut and bolt) at 0.2mm layers with a 0.5mm nozzle, out of ABS, and also out of PETG. </p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-09-06T12:50:45.437Z
Note, we don't use support material for threads either.
Davo
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-03T10:13:09.160Z
I also printed some threads sucessfully using 0.2 layer-height on an Ultimaker2+ with ABS. You maybe need to fiddle around with the spacing between the "nut" and "bolt", I think I used 0.3mm to get a good fit. I used Fusion360 to easily create the threads, you can also round out the thread so that it will print better (less overhang). This can all be easily done in Fusion360. Also I did not need to use any supports for this.
LWS-Mo
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-10-25T18:50:22.180Z
2017-10-25T18:50:22.180Z
Davo
<p>I have found that I get slightly different results with different printers and different plastics and print temperatures. For doing parts like nuts and bolts you will probably have to print several prototype parts once you get your printer to get the setting and tolerances right, once you get a print. But just decreasing the layer height and getting the nozzle temp and cooling right should let you get some working parts.
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/WUcio.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/WUcio.png" alt="Slope failure"></a>
 You can get the sloped surfaces the still look ok but are not dimensional accurate with to high an angle. I find if is easiest to print and then test and then adjust the tolerances on the design.
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/rvkGA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/rvkGA.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-10-26T14:25:32.537Z
So I just have to play with the settings, makes sense. I also like how Davo said he got a good M8. Witch is great. Will just have to wait till have I have one. Thanks for the reply
Ljk2000
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-10-26T02:34:04.063Z
2017-10-26T02:34:04.063Z
user802599
<p>I don't have a printer like yours but it should not matter.</p>
<p>Once you follow the calibration steps listed at <a href="https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/articles/extrusion_multiplier.md" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/articles/extrusion_multiplier.md</a> and you set the slicer to 0.1 mm, you should be able to print working threads at the first attempt.</p>
<p>I printed in PLA a thread (both screw and nut) with a 1.5 mm pitch and it worked immediately (it was a bit hard to turn, it got better after using it few times).</p>
<p>A G 1/2 thread (pipe thread) in ASA (only nut) also worked immediately.</p>
<p>I had more issues with deep threads: M30x1.5 worked immediately, but I couldn't get M30x3 mm to work. Basically printing threads with pitch from 0.8 to 1.5 mm should be fine if the axis is vertical.</p>
<p>0.1 mm layer height is important to keep overhangs small, see video</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
                <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YPAXeBuq9qU?start=541"></iframe>
            </div></div></p>
<p>The nozzle is not so important, you can use 0.4-0.6 without issues. I used 0.4 mm.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-23T17:34:16.643Z
One thing to keep in mind is that there's an unstated but implied thread profile which determines the slope (overhang angle) of the threads *independent of pitch*. For standard metric threads, this angle (60°) is just on the boundary of what can be printed accurately with typical FDM processes.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-23T08:47:30.760Z
2022-08-23T08:47:30.760Z
FarO
<p>I am re-writing this question because, well, it needs to be updated.</p>

<p>I have the Anet A6, but in a general sense of things, what kind of threads can I produce before it no longer works? </p>

<print-quality>
Printing threads
Ljk2000
# Printing threads

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-10-25)

I am re-writing this question because, well, it needs to be updated.

I have the Anet A6, but in a general sense of things, what kind of threads can I produce before it no longer works?

**Tags:** print-quality


---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2017-10-25. Score: 3 | Accepted answer

This depends on the nozzle diameter, the layer thickness, and the material.

I've made very good M8 and acceptable M6 threads (nut and bolt) at 0.2mm layers with a 0.5mm nozzle, out of ABS, and also out of PETG.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: I also printed some threads sucessfully using 0.2 layer-height on an Ultimaker2+ with ABS. You maybe need to fiddle around with the spacing between the "nut" and "bolt", I think I used 0.3mm to get a good fit. I used Fusion360 to easily create the threads, you can also round out the thread so that it will print better (less overhang). This can all be easily done in Fusion360. Also I did not need to use any supports for this.  
> **username_1**: Note, we don't use support material for threads either.  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2017-10-26. Score: 1

I have found that I get slightly different results with different printers and different plastics and print temperatures. For doing parts like nuts and bolts you will probably have to print several prototype parts once you get your printer to get the setting and tolerances right, once you get a print. But just decreasing the layer height and getting the nozzle temp and cooling right should let you get some working parts.
[![Slope failure](https://i.sstatic.net/WUcio.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/WUcio.png)
You can get the sloped surfaces the still look ok but are not dimensional accurate with to high an angle. I find if is easiest to print and then test and then adjust the tolerances on the design.
[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/rvkGA.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/rvkGA.png)

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: So I just have to play with the settings, makes sense. I also like how username_1 said he got a good M8. Witch is great. Will just have to wait till have I have one. Thanks for the reply  

---

### Answer by username_4 on 2022-08-23. Score: 1

I don't have a printer like yours but it should not matter.

Once you follow the calibration steps listed at <https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/articles/extrusion_multiplier.md> and you set the slicer to 0.1 mm, you should be able to print working threads at the first attempt.

I printed in PLA a thread (both screw and nut) with a 1.5 mm pitch and it worked immediately (it was a bit hard to turn, it got better after using it few times).

A G 1/2 thread (pipe thread) in ASA (only nut) also worked immediately.

I had more issues with deep threads: M30x1.5 worked immediately, but I couldn't get M30x3 mm to work. Basically printing threads with pitch from 0.8 to 1.5 mm should be fine if the axis is vertical.

0.1 mm layer height is important to keep overhangs small, see video

The nozzle is not so important, you can use 0.4-0.6 without issues. I used 0.4 mm.

> **Comments:**
> **username_5**: One thing to keep in mind is that there's an unstated but implied thread profile which determines the slope (overhang angle) of the threads *independent of pitch*. For standard metric threads, this angle (60°) is just on the boundary of what can be printed accurately with typical FDM processes.  

---

