<p>I had a similar issue after installing an E3D V6 using a Bowden extruder.</p>

<p>PLA needs a heat break that has a PTFE liner, since with all metal heat breaks, it's probable that the filament will reach glass transition temperature in the heat break and stop flowing properly.</p>

<p>Also, I had filament that was 1.86&nbsp;mm instead of 1.75&nbsp;mm, which caused it to bind inside the PTFE tube.</p>

<p>Before correcting these issues, I was able to temporarily fix the issue by doing a cold pull to unclog the extruder, and was able to print around 10&nbsp;cm in height of a 20x20x20&nbsp;mm cube.</p>

<p>To do a cold pull, heat your extruder between 80-100°C, and then pull out the filament. If successful, the tip of the filament will be shaped as the inside of the nozzle. If needed, heat the extruder to 200°C and manually push the filament to fill up the nozzle and heat brake, then let it cool down to the above temps and do the pull.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-06-09T17:41:48.497Z
2018-06-09T21:36:01.313Z
2018-06-09T21:36:01.313Z
avc
<p>The "click of death" is the feed bolt skipping as it chews a bite out of your filament. Your filament feed is encountering resistance and the feed bolt is slipping. I've seen that sad spaghetti so many times. After unclogging your head with a cold pull and cutting off the mangled filament, you'll have some things to try:</p>

<p>I had a Lulzbot with the older Bowden extruder and learned to prevent spaghetti air prints by: 1) replacing PTFE liners periodically, and 2) increasing temperature for certain colors. My black PLA required +5C over my natural PLA, which was a total surprise.</p>

<p>Now I have a new Lultzbot with the metal extruder and life is good. All metal hot-ends are so much nicer.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-06-10T14:38:53.393Z
2018-06-10T14:38:53.393Z
OyaMist
<p>I am the owner of a pretty Anycubic Mega I3 and it was very cool to own it. </p>

<p>However, now I have several problems when printing with it. It clicks all along, at high or low temperature, at 5&nbsp;mm above the plate, and the result is very disgusting. It is the same with the basic black PLA, or with other PLA from ICE-Filaments but I can't do anything. </p>

<p>I use Cura and I've reset it several times, using the defaults options or not.</p>

<p>Here are two examples of some prints (normal cube): </p>

<p><a href="https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/380420138920574986/455045425636835338/Snapchat-1209640225.jpg" rel="noreferrer">example 1</a> </p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/rSqA2.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="First example of poorly printed cube"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/rSqA2.jpg" alt="First example of poorly printed cube" title="First example of poorly printed cube"></a></p>

<p>and <a href="https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/380420138920574986/455045425636835340/Snapchat-27434386.jpg" rel="noreferrer">Example 2</a></p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/hb1dJ.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="Second example of poorly printed cube"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/hb1dJ.jpg" alt="Second example of poorly printed cube" title="Second example of poorly printed cube"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-06-18T20:58:12.300Z
Clogged hot-end or too low temperature will cause this.
esoterik
<software><hardware>
Can't print anything, clicking and low extrusion
Obibousky
# Can't print anything, clicking and low extrusion

(Asked by: username_0 on 2018-06-09)

I am the owner of a pretty Anycubic Mega I3 and it was very cool to own it.

However, now I have several problems when printing with it. It clicks all along, at high or low temperature, at 5 mm above the plate, and the result is very disgusting. It is the same with the basic black PLA, or with other PLA from ICE-Filaments but I can't do anything.

I use Cura and I've reset it several times, using the defaults options or not.

Here are two examples of some prints (normal cube):

[example 1](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/380420138920574986/455045425636835338/Snapchat-1209640225.jpg)

[![First example of poorly printed cube](https://i.sstatic.net/rSqA2.jpg "First example of poorly printed cube")](https://i.sstatic.net/rSqA2.jpg "First example of poorly printed cube")

and [Example 2](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/380420138920574986/455045425636835340/Snapchat-27434386.jpg)

[![Second example of poorly printed cube](https://i.sstatic.net/hb1dJ.jpg "Second example of poorly printed cube")](https://i.sstatic.net/hb1dJ.jpg "Second example of poorly printed cube")

**Tags:** software, hardware

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Clogged hot-end or too low temperature will cause this.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2018-06-09. Score: 2

I had a similar issue after installing an E3D V6 using a Bowden extruder.

PLA needs a heat break that has a PTFE liner, since with all metal heat breaks, it's probable that the filament will reach glass transition temperature in the heat break and stop flowing properly.

Also, I had filament that was 1.86 mm instead of 1.75 mm, which caused it to bind inside the PTFE tube.

Before correcting these issues, I was able to temporarily fix the issue by doing a cold pull to unclog the extruder, and was able to print around 10 cm in height of a 20x20x20 mm cube.

To do a cold pull, heat your extruder between 80-100°C, and then pull out the filament. If successful, the tip of the filament will be shaped as the inside of the nozzle. If needed, heat the extruder to 200°C and manually push the filament to fill up the nozzle and heat brake, then let it cool down to the above temps and do the pull.


---

### Answer by username_3 on 2018-06-10. Score: 2

The "click of death" is the feed bolt skipping as it chews a bite out of your filament. Your filament feed is encountering resistance and the feed bolt is slipping. I've seen that sad spaghetti so many times. After unclogging your head with a cold pull and cutting off the mangled filament, you'll have some things to try:

I had a Lulzbot with the older Bowden extruder and learned to prevent spaghetti air prints by: 1) replacing PTFE liners periodically, and 2) increasing temperature for certain colors. My black PLA required +5C over my natural PLA, which was a total surprise.

Now I have a new Lultzbot with the metal extruder and life is good. All metal hot-ends are so much nicer.


---

