<p>Ok, first of all you need to understand why the limit is given at 250 °C: that's when the hotend design chosen by the Monoprice starts to destroy its PETG liner. To print hotter, you'd need an unlined hotend, which means you'd need a proper all metal hotend.</p>
<p>A proper all metal hodend is <strong>a tradeoff</strong>, not an upgrade: you sacrifice some ease of printing and risk some clogs in the lower temperature band for being able to print higher temperatures.</p>
<p>When you want to buy an e3D hotend, you should go for a genuine one, as many clones are actually not all metal. Also note, that there are other all-metal hotends around.</p>
<p>If you get an e3D v6, you should make sure to buy the right variant for your machine! Monoprice tells us, that this is a <strong>24 V</strong> Machine, so you'll need to get the 24 V Variant! As you also will swap the temperature sensor, you might need to update your firmware according to the <a href="https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en" rel="nofollow noreferrer">e3D installation manual</a>. Since a genuine hotend comes with all the cabling and a new thermosensor, you'll need to rewire the whole machine - and you might need to make new fittings before installing. The <a href="https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/thermistor-cartridge" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><em>standard</em> e3D Thermistor</a> that comes with the hotend is good up to 285 °C, which will be your new ceiling temperature. Take careful note of these two parts that appear in the before assembly notes section of the manual:</p>
<ul>
<li>The standard V6 is capable of printing up to 285°C, <strong>do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the Thermistor cartridge with a PT100</strong>, the Aluminium heater block with a Plated copper heater block, and the Brass nozzle for a Plated copper, Hardened steel or Nozzle X.</li>
<li><strong><a href="https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en#s86" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Firmware modification</a> is not optional it is a mandatory step.</strong></li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-19T11:53:03.513Z
Don't forget the temperature sensor, it might be worth mentioning that although you can increase temperatures with an all metal hotend, there is a limit to the thermistor. For 265 °C a thermistor will be adequate enough.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-19T17:36:29.197Z
Will it be compatible with the voltage and wires going to the ironical hotend? And if I add a new temperature sensor, will it display an accurate temperature on the screen?
Noobmaster69
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-19T17:56:24.977Z
@0scar the ceiling is 285 °C for the standard e3D thermosensor.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-19T18:14:13.687Z
@Noobmaster69 if you get a 24V one, yes. You will have to make your own firmware though, as firmware modification is necessary to up the ceiling to 285 °C and to set the thermosensor properly.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-19T20:20:36.477Z
Thank you, this may be too hard for me, will https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/black-pro-series-nylon-175-3D-printer-filament/sk/MCR8GQZT work for my printer with stock settings?
Noobmaster69
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-19T20:22:22.867Z
@Noobmaster69 that material is 240 to 260 °C, so it might work, if you are willing to go into the upper range of your printer. I wouldn't demand more than 245°C to keep a little overhead and not trigger maxtemp errors.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-19T09:26:32.903Z
2020-08-19T18:14:47.213Z
2020-08-19T18:14:47.213Z
Trish
<p>I'm fairly new to 3D printing and I have a Monoprice Ultimate 2. The Monoprice website says it can reach 250 °C with a 100 °C bed temperature.</p>
<p>I want to print some projects using Matterhacks Nylonx, its recommended printing temperature is 250 °C to 265 °C.</p>
<ul>
<li>Could I print it on the stock max setting of 250 °C or will it not adhere correctly?</li>
<li>Can I increase the print temperature by replacing the hotend with an E3D hotend?
<ul>
<li>If so how hot could I get the hotend and how would I go about doing that?</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p>There is not many resources about Monoprice products.  Any help is greatly appreciated.</p>

<hotend><replacement-parts><monoprice-maker-ultimate><nylon><carbon>
Increase hotend temperature on Monoprice Ultimate 2
Noobmaster69
# Increase hotend temperature on Monoprice Ultimate 2

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-08-19)

I'm fairly new to 3D printing and I have a Monoprice Ultimate 2. The Monoprice website says it can reach 250 °C with a 100 °C bed temperature.

I want to print some projects using Matterhacks Nylonx, its recommended printing temperature is 250 °C to 265 °C.

* Could I print it on the stock max setting of 250 °C or will it not adhere correctly?
* Can I increase the print temperature by replacing the hotend with an E3D hotend?
  + If so how hot could I get the hotend and how would I go about doing that?

There is not many resources about Monoprice products. Any help is greatly appreciated.

**Tags:** hotend, replacement-parts, monoprice-maker-ultimate, nylon, carbon


---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2020-08-19. Score: 1

Ok, first of all you need to understand why the limit is given at 250 °C: that's when the hotend design chosen by the Monoprice starts to destroy its PETG liner. To print hotter, you'd need an unlined hotend, which means you'd need a proper all metal hotend.

A proper all metal hodend is **a tradeoff**, not an upgrade: you sacrifice some ease of printing and risk some clogs in the lower temperature band for being able to print higher temperatures.

When you want to buy an e3D hotend, you should go for a genuine one, as many clones are actually not all metal. Also note, that there are other all-metal hotends around.

If you get an e3D v6, you should make sure to buy the right variant for your machine! Monoprice tells us, that this is a **24 V** Machine, so you'll need to get the 24 V Variant! As you also will swap the temperature sensor, you might need to update your firmware according to the [e3D installation manual](https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en). Since a genuine hotend comes with all the cabling and a new thermosensor, you'll need to rewire the whole machine - and you might need to make new fittings before installing. The [*standard* e3D Thermistor](https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/thermistor-cartridge) that comes with the hotend is good up to 285 °C, which will be your new ceiling temperature. Take careful note of these two parts that appear in the before assembly notes section of the manual:

* The standard V6 is capable of printing up to 285°C, **do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the Thermistor cartridge with a PT100**, the Aluminium heater block with a Plated copper heater block, and the Brass nozzle for a Plated copper, Hardened steel or Nozzle X.
* **[Firmware modification](https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en#s86) is not optional it is a mandatory step.**

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: Don't forget the temperature sensor, it might be worth mentioning that although you can increase temperatures with an all metal hotend, there is a limit to the thermistor. For 265 °C a thermistor will be adequate enough.  
> **username_0**: Will it be compatible with the voltage and wires going to the ironical hotend? And if I add a new temperature sensor, will it display an accurate temperature on the screen?  
> **username_1**: @username_2 the ceiling is 285 °C for the standard e3D thermosensor.  
> **username_1**: @username_0 if you get a 24V one, yes. You will have to make your own firmware though, as firmware modification is necessary to up the ceiling to 285 °C and to set the thermosensor properly.  
> **username_0**: Thank you, this may be too hard for me, will https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/black-pro-series-nylon-175-3D-printer-filament/sk/MCR8GQZT work for my printer with stock settings?  
> **username_1**: @username_0 that material is 240 to 260 °C, so it might work, if you are willing to go into the upper range of your printer. I wouldn't demand more than 245°C to keep a little overhead and not trigger maxtemp errors.  

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