<p>PLA is a forgiving filament, you can even print such filament without a heated bed. Although there are differences in quality between brands, PLA shouldn't need a raft to be printed. Hatchbox filament is not considered as a low quality type of filament; it is economical and has been around since 2013. A raft is a structured platform that is specifically used for high temperature and or high shrinkage types of filament, PLA is not such a filament and shouldn't need a raft. This implies that something is wrong with getting the filament sticking to the plate. Good adhesion requires a levelled bed, a correct initial nozzle to build plate distance (e.g. paper thickness) and possibly an adhesive like a glue stick, special adhesion spray, a textured bed or blue tape, etc.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-02T17:23:18.890Z
2021-05-02T17:23:18.890Z
0scar
<p>It is unlikely this is a filament material issue since many of us have used Hatchbox PLA without this issue.  This is a first layer adhesion issue.</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Your bed may not be clean, or the bed may have had an adhesion layer you cleaned off.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Your nozzle may be too high on the first layer.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Your bed my not be level.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Glue sticks can help adhesion.  Glue sticks usually don't post the composition on the packaging, but Elmer's glue sticks work.  Elmer's washable makes it easy to remove the old layer before adding a new one.  There are also glue sticks specified for 3D-printing.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Here's a discussion on glue sticks: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15281/are-all-glue-sticks-pva-based-how-to-find-out/15283#15283">Are all glue sticks PVA-based? How to find out?</a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-06T14:00:52.510Z
I tried cleaning my build plate and using a glue stick. I got the same outcome. I also don't thing there is a problem with the printer, as my prints come out fine when I use a raft. But when I use a skirt, I end up with problems.
shwin320
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-06T14:39:22.820Z
@shwin320 You almost certainly need to level the print bed, and maybe bring very slightly closer to the nozzle.
Joel Coehoorn
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-20T21:19:55.737Z
After leveling my print bed, I'm no longer having issues with my filament. Thanks for the help.
shwin320
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-20T21:26:09.963Z
@Perry Webb Sorry I still have a downvote on your answer. Even though your advice was helpful, I am unable to undo my downvote since it's been a while since I gave it.
shwin320
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-02T12:40:08.590Z
2021-05-02T12:51:47.547Z
2021-05-02T12:51:47.547Z
Perry Webb
<p>Please try one (or more) of the following:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Change the temperature of your heated bed (50 - 60 °C)</p>
</li>
<li><p>Check your nozzle height (0.15 - 0.25 mm is what I use)</p>
</li>
<li><p>Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called))</p>
</li>
<li><p>Use adhesion. Start with painter's tape (least damaging, easy to remove), then use a glue stick or even hair spray if necessary.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Be sure the bed is clean (I recommend glass cleaner 1-3 squirts and then a light scrub of a paper towel)</p>
</li>
</ol>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-05T00:02:29.747Z
#3 will only make sure the bed is level with the ground and not with the print nozzle.
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-05T09:40:35.890Z
#3 can and will make your prints worse unless your X axis is horizontal. A 3D printer can be set up upside down or on the wall and print perfectly fine, if the temperature is right. #4 Quite some Hairsprays won't work as they have a different glue in them that doesn't bond to PLA. Painters tape needs to be accounted for during leveling.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-20T21:19:43.647Z
After leveling my print bed, I'm no longer having issues with my filament. Thanks for the help.
shwin320
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-20T21:25:54.807Z
@Greenonline Sorry I still have a downvote on your answer. Even though your advice was helpful, I am unable to undo my downvote since it's been a while since I gave it.
shwin320
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-04T23:54:55.253Z
2021-05-05T04:43:45.677Z
2021-05-05T04:43:45.677Z
Greenreader9
<p>When I first got my 3D printer (a FlashForge Adventurer 3), it came with a sample pack of filament. With this filament, I was able to use skirts for my first layer. When the sample filament ran out, I switched to Hatchbox PLA filament. For some reason, I cannot use skirts with the Hatchbox filament. Now, whenever I try to print something with a skirt, the print moves around, ruining it. The only first-layer that works now are rafts, which I do not like, as they use up more filament and are more of a pain to remove. Is anyone else having this problem? If so, what are some workarounds to this issue?<img src="https://i.sstatic.net/913g2.jpg" alt="Here are the failed prints. I terminated them mid-way, as they started to shift on the build plate." /></p>
<blockquote>
<p>Here are the failed prints. I terminated them mid-way, as they started
to shift on the build plate.</p>
</blockquote>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-02T00:03:05.923Z
please show a photo of such a failed print, so we can see what you mean
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-02T02:02:14.480Z
Have you cleaned the build plate for any oils, dirt, etc?
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-02T02:10:59.017Z
@agarza I tried cleaning the build plate with a wet paper towel. The prints still slipped. Is there something else I should try to clean with?
shwin320
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-02T03:28:41.243Z
Sometimes the oils from your hands can get on the build plate and just water won't get the oils off. I have used regular dish soap and warm water to clean my build plate, but isopropyl alcohol (IPA) can be used. I would also caution on the use of IPA as it has been known to remove special coatings on build plates.
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-02T07:09:04.727Z
You have an adhesion problem, relevel, set correct nozzle to bed distance and use an adhesive such as glue stick or even better a dedicated print adhesion product like 3DLAC, or equivalent.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-02T11:39:55.543Z
@0scar Would a regular school glue stick work, or would I need some other type of adhesive? Also, I'm not sure whether the problem is with bed adhesion. When I use a raft, the print sticks perfectly fine to the bed. I only get this problem when I use a skirt.
shwin320
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-02T17:28:21.543Z
Woodglue and school gluestick work and are based on similar compounds.What is your first layer thickness and nozzle diameter?
Trish
<pla><filament><adhesion><filament-quality><rafts>
My Hatchbox PLA filament only allows me to use rafts
shwin320
# My Hatchbox PLA filament only allows me to use rafts

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-05-01)

When I first got my 3D printer (a FlashForge Adventurer 3), it came with a sample pack of filament. With this filament, I was able to use skirts for my first layer. When the sample filament ran out, I switched to Hatchbox PLA filament. For some reason, I cannot use skirts with the Hatchbox filament. Now, whenever I try to print something with a skirt, the print moves around, ruining it. The only first-layer that works now are rafts, which I do not like, as they use up more filament and are more of a pain to remove. Is anyone else having this problem? If so, what are some workarounds to this issue?![Here are the failed prints. I terminated them mid-way, as they started to shift on the build plate.](https://i.sstatic.net/913g2.jpg)

> Here are the failed prints. I terminated them mid-way, as they started
> to shift on the build plate.

**Tags:** pla, filament, adhesion, filament-quality, rafts

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: please show a photo of such a failed print, so we can see what you mean  
> **username_2**: Have you cleaned the build plate for any oils, dirt, etc?  
> **username_0**: @username_2 I tried cleaning the build plate with a wet paper towel. The prints still slipped. Is there something else I should try to clean with?  
> **username_2**: Sometimes the oils from your hands can get on the build plate and just water won't get the oils off. I have used regular dish soap and warm water to clean my build plate, but isopropyl alcohol (IPA) can be used. I would also caution on the use of IPA as it has been known to remove special coatings on build plates.  
> **username_3**: You have an adhesion problem, relevel, set correct nozzle to bed distance and use an adhesive such as glue stick or even better a dedicated print adhesion product like 3DLAC, or equivalent.  
> **username_0**: @username_3 Would a regular school glue stick work, or would I need some other type of adhesive? Also, I'm not sure whether the problem is with bed adhesion. When I use a raft, the print sticks perfectly fine to the bed. I only get this problem when I use a skirt.  
> **username_1**: Woodglue and school gluestick work and are based on similar compounds.What is your first layer thickness and nozzle diameter?  

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2021-05-02. Score: 2 | Accepted answer

PLA is a forgiving filament, you can even print such filament without a heated bed. Although there are differences in quality between brands, PLA shouldn't need a raft to be printed. Hatchbox filament is not considered as a low quality type of filament; it is economical and has been around since 2013. A raft is a structured platform that is specifically used for high temperature and or high shrinkage types of filament, PLA is not such a filament and shouldn't need a raft. This implies that something is wrong with getting the filament sticking to the plate. Good adhesion requires a levelled bed, a correct initial nozzle to build plate distance (e.g. paper thickness) and possibly an adhesive like a glue stick, special adhesion spray, a textured bed or blue tape, etc.


---

### Answer by username_4 on 2021-05-02. Score: 2

It is unlikely this is a filament material issue since many of us have used Hatchbox PLA without this issue. This is a first layer adhesion issue.

1. Your bed may not be clean, or the bed may have had an adhesion layer you cleaned off.
2. Your nozzle may be too high on the first layer.
3. Your bed my not be level.
4. Glue sticks can help adhesion. Glue sticks usually don't post the composition on the packaging, but Elmer's glue sticks work. Elmer's washable makes it easy to remove the old layer before adding a new one. There are also glue sticks specified for 3D-printing.

Here's a discussion on glue sticks: [Are all glue sticks PVA-based? How to find out?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15281/are-all-glue-sticks-pva-based-how-to-find-out/15283#15283)

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: I tried cleaning my build plate and using a glue stick. I got the same outcome. I also don't thing there is a problem with the printer, as my prints come out fine when I use a raft. But when I use a skirt, I end up with problems.  
> **username_5**: @username_0 You almost certainly need to level the print bed, and maybe bring very slightly closer to the nozzle.  
> **username_0**: After leveling my print bed, I'm no longer having issues with my filament. Thanks for the help.  
> **username_0**: @username_4 Sorry I still have a downvote on your answer. Even though your advice was helpful, I am unable to undo my downvote since it's been a while since I gave it.  

---

### Answer by username_6 on 2021-05-04. Score: 0

Please try one (or more) of the following:

1. Change the temperature of your heated bed (50 - 60 °C)
2. Check your nozzle height (0.15 - 0.25 mm is what I use)
3. Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called))
4. Use adhesion. Start with painter's tape (least damaging, easy to remove), then use a glue stick or even hair spray if necessary.
5. Be sure the bed is clean (I recommend glass cleaner 1-3 squirts and then a light scrub of a paper towel)

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: #3 will only make sure the bed is level with the ground and not with the print nozzle.  
> **username_1**: #3 can and will make your prints worse unless your X axis is horizontal. A 3D printer can be set up upside down or on the wall and print perfectly fine, if the temperature is right. #4 Quite some Hairsprays won't work as they have a different glue in them that doesn't bond to PLA. Painters tape needs to be accounted for during leveling.  
> **username_0**: After leveling my print bed, I'm no longer having issues with my filament. Thanks for the help.  
> **username_0**: @Greenonline Sorry I still have a downvote on your answer. Even though your advice was helpful, I am unable to undo my downvote since it's been a while since I gave it.  

---

