<h2>Three ideas</h2>

<ol>
<li>If either side of the red ring can have a chamfer to meet the cylinder, add the chamfer and print with the chamfer side down.</li>
<li>If both sides of the red ring must be perpendicular to the axis of
the cylinder, can you print the cylinder lying on its side?  You
might get good enough print quality, especially if printing with
thinner layers toward the top.</li>
<li>If that is unsatisfactory, try explicitly adding an inner support
ring <strong>as part of the model.</strong> Don't depend on the slicer to do what
you want, do it yourself.  You would then be bridging to make the
red disk, but that can work surprisingly well with a good cooling
fan and printer.</li>
</ol>

<p>In all three cases, consider the slot holes you have in the red ring.  For case 3 you may need to add a support around those holes as well.  In case 2, they would want to be pointed vertically.  In case 1, the chamfer would be modified to have holes of cavities matching the slot holes.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-24T01:34:34.797Z
Not OP, but can you elaborate on idea 3? Do you mean add a ring under the 2nd orientation and leaving a small gap to the actual model? Wouldn't this just be support that's difficult to pry off? Or do you mean a cylinder at the same height/position as the ring so the entire hole is covered? How would you remove that afterwards?
csiz
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-24T03:28:00.213Z
I meant a cylinder that came up to the hole in the red ring.  It would support the end and the ring would bridge onto the cylinder.  Yes, it is support y hff at would need to be removed, but you would control where it was placed.  The inner hole diameter could be reduced and the support cut away with a rotary file.  Your choice, but it would be your choice based on what was easy for you to remove.
cmm
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-24T14:40:43.253Z
Ah, that makes sense. I kept thinking you'd have to make the support ring as wide as the red ring, but making it so it only touches the inner diameter is clever!
csiz
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-23T20:45:05.570Z
2019-07-23T20:45:05.570Z
cmm
<p>You can print the support as a separate piece, then when the time is right pause the print, insert the support part into the ring and the resume printing. I guess you might have to use PVA glue on the support to ensure that it comes off easily when the time is right, but I'll leave that experimentation up to you. Note: This is going to be very much trial and error on your part.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-23T19:05:32.300Z
2019-07-23T19:05:32.300Z
user77232
<p>I'd go for extra supports, raising the entire model half a centimeter above the plane and constructing it completely on top of supports.</p>

<p>That way, the supports will be easy to break off.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-24T08:14:06.907Z
2019-07-24T08:14:06.907Z
Simon Richter
<p>Most slicers have extensive settings to control the layout of the support structures, the distance to the overhanging part, line thickness, etc.</p>

<p>If that doesn't work out for you, you can always change the design to add custom support structures yourself to not having to fiddle with the support settings.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-23T17:57:50.860Z
2019-07-23T17:57:50.860Z
0scar
<p>Assuming that the red flange needs to be flat on both sides, your best approach for printing in two parts may be a 45 degree conical cut through the flange. This will allow both parts to be printed flat on the bed, and (assuming a low layer height) should give a tolerable overhang result.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-24T13:43:05.787Z
2019-07-24T13:43:05.787Z
Sean Houlihane
<p>Here's the thing I want to print.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/4bgNK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/4bgNK.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>The red ring is 3.5&nbsp;mm above the bottom of the orange cylinder. The red ring is 1cm thick. I'd prefer not to use supports because I tend to break as much as I clean up.</p>

<p>I know this could be done in two pieces but then I'd have to make sure the pieces fit and then glue it in at that's too much. It'd be ideal to print this as one piece. How can I do this with as few supports as possible?</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-24T16:43:54.533Z
It seems like technically this should be possible by making short chord-like bridges along the circle, to provide support for the next layer. But I'm not aware of any slicer that would support a strategy like that. You could edit the g-code manually (just the first layer where the ring begins), but that is quite laborious.
jpa
<support-structures>
How can I print a 1 cm overhang with minimal supports?
user875234
# How can I print a 1 cm overhang with minimal supports?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-07-23)

Here's the thing I want to print.

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/4bgNK.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/4bgNK.png)

The red ring is 3.5 mm above the bottom of the orange cylinder. The red ring is 1cm thick. I'd prefer not to use supports because I tend to break as much as I clean up.

I know this could be done in two pieces but then I'd have to make sure the pieces fit and then glue it in at that's too much. It'd be ideal to print this as one piece. How can I do this with as few supports as possible?

**Tags:** support-structures

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: It seems like technically this should be possible by making short chord-like bridges along the circle, to provide support for the next layer. But I'm not aware of any slicer that would support a strategy like that. You could edit the g-code manually (just the first layer where the ring begins), but that is quite laborious.  

---

## 5 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2019-07-23. Score: 4

## Three ideas

1. If either side of the red ring can have a chamfer to meet the cylinder, add the chamfer and print with the chamfer side down.
2. If both sides of the red ring must be perpendicular to the axis of
   the cylinder, can you print the cylinder lying on its side? You
   might get good enough print quality, especially if printing with
   thinner layers toward the top.
3. If that is unsatisfactory, try explicitly adding an inner support
   ring **as part of the model.** Don't depend on the slicer to do what
   you want, do it yourself. You would then be bridging to make the
   red disk, but that can work surprisingly well with a good cooling
   fan and printer.

In all three cases, consider the slot holes you have in the red ring. For case 3 you may need to add a support around those holes as well. In case 2, they would want to be pointed vertically. In case 1, the chamfer would be modified to have holes of cavities matching the slot holes.

> **Comments:**
> **username_3**: Not OP, but can you elaborate on idea 3? Do you mean add a ring under the 2nd orientation and leaving a small gap to the actual model? Wouldn't this just be support that's difficult to pry off? Or do you mean a cylinder at the same height/position as the ring so the entire hole is covered? How would you remove that afterwards?  
> **username_2**: I meant a cylinder that came up to the hole in the red ring.  It would support the end and the ring would bridge onto the cylinder.  Yes, it is support y hff at would need to be removed, but you would control where it was placed.  The inner hole diameter could be reduced and the support cut away with a rotary file.  Your choice, but it would be your choice based on what was easy for you to remove.  
> **username_3**: Ah, that makes sense. I kept thinking you'd have to make the support ring as wide as the red ring, but making it so it only touches the inner diameter is clever!  

---

### Answer by username_4 on 2019-07-23. Score: 3

You can print the support as a separate piece, then when the time is right pause the print, insert the support part into the ring and the resume printing. I guess you might have to use PVA glue on the support to ensure that it comes off easily when the time is right, but I'll leave that experimentation up to you. Note: This is going to be very much trial and error on your part.


---

### Answer by username_5 on 2019-07-24. Score: 1

I'd go for extra supports, raising the entire model half a centimeter above the plane and constructing it completely on top of supports.

That way, the supports will be easy to break off.


---

### Answer by username_6 on 2019-07-23. Score: 1

Most slicers have extensive settings to control the layout of the support structures, the distance to the overhanging part, line thickness, etc.

If that doesn't work out for you, you can always change the design to add custom support structures yourself to not having to fiddle with the support settings.


---

### Answer by username_7 on 2019-07-24. Score: 0

Assuming that the red flange needs to be flat on both sides, your best approach for printing in two parts may be a 45 degree conical cut through the flange. This will allow both parts to be printed flat on the bed, and (assuming a low layer height) should give a tolerable overhang result.


---

