<p>That depends on the bed plate and how it is mounted in the printer, and how well you are able build a square frame.</p>
<p>Is the bed a thick slab of machined aluminium, chances are it is very flat. If mounted/shimmed correctly in your frame this doesn't require much work to level, it could be you do not need to level it by the firmware, it is depending on how it is mounted in the frame. The Voron CoreXY design is a printer using such a solution.</p>
<p>If the bed is a thin, flimsy plate, or mounted with 4 screws (which over constraints the plate making it statically indeterminate, and a lot harder to level/tram than with 3 screws) leveling can be a challenge, but needs to be done to deliver a bed as straight/level as possible. Based on this level you would like to scan the surface in a mesh so that the nozzle will always follow the contours of the bed surface.</p>
<p>Note that leveling is factually called tramming, it has no relation with bubble leveling, it al has to do with tramming the surface in respect to the frame of the printer.</p>
<p>So, even when a bed is fixed, it should at least be trammed once to be square to the frame and parallel to the XY movement of your gantry/hotend. How you do this is part of how you construct your bed (to shim) and what type of bed you use. A solid, fixed bed doesn't need much tinkering once installed. From experience I now know that even thinner beds on my DIY printerd, when properly trammed do not need much leveling, I removed <code>G29</code> from my start G-code and seldomly check the Z-offset and the bed geometry meshing unless I had a hard encounter with the bed, or moved the printer.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-11-10T16:57:24.787Z
I was planning on using machined aluminium, but thank you for confirming it! This is exactly what I meant.
Donkey45
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-11-10T05:21:53.173Z
2024-11-10T07:22:47.363Z
2024-11-10T07:22:47.363Z
0scar
<p>I'm currently building my first DIY printer (not my first printer, just the first one I'm building myself) and was wondering if bed leveling was required for a printer in which the nozzle moves on the XYZ axis, meaning the bed doesn't move at all. Judging from what I've read about bed leveling, it sounds like the bed could be completely fixed with just a nozzle calibration program. Is this correct?
If not, could you please explain why it would still need leveling?</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-11-10T07:14:10.290Z
The question is, what are you building? 
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-11-10T14:09:18.420Z
My first thought is this might be a delta printer. Am I correct?
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-11-10T16:55:32.190Z
@agarza no. it's just a standard printer with independent XYZ axes, similar to a Voron.
Donkey45
<bed-leveling><diy-3d-printer>
If a printer bed is fixed in place, does it need leveling?
Donkey45
# If a printer bed is fixed in place, does it need leveling?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2024-11-10)

I'm currently building my first DIY printer (not my first printer, just the first one I'm building myself) and was wondering if bed leveling was required for a printer in which the nozzle moves on the XYZ axis, meaning the bed doesn't move at all. Judging from what I've read about bed leveling, it sounds like the bed could be completely fixed with just a nozzle calibration program. Is this correct?
If not, could you please explain why it would still need leveling?

**Tags:** bed-leveling, diy-3d-printer

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: The question is, what are you building?   
> **username_2**: My first thought is this might be a delta printer. Am I correct?  
> **username_0**: @username_2 no. it's just a standard printer with independent XYZ axes, similar to a Voron.  

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2024-11-10. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

That depends on the bed plate and how it is mounted in the printer, and how well you are able build a square frame.

Is the bed a thick slab of machined aluminium, chances are it is very flat. If mounted/shimmed correctly in your frame this doesn't require much work to level, it could be you do not need to level it by the firmware, it is depending on how it is mounted in the frame. The Voron CoreXY design is a printer using such a solution.

If the bed is a thin, flimsy plate, or mounted with 4 screws (which over constraints the plate making it statically indeterminate, and a lot harder to level/tram than with 3 screws) leveling can be a challenge, but needs to be done to deliver a bed as straight/level as possible. Based on this level you would like to scan the surface in a mesh so that the nozzle will always follow the contours of the bed surface.

Note that leveling is factually called tramming, it has no relation with bubble leveling, it al has to do with tramming the surface in respect to the frame of the printer.

So, even when a bed is fixed, it should at least be trammed once to be square to the frame and parallel to the XY movement of your gantry/hotend. How you do this is part of how you construct your bed (to shim) and what type of bed you use. A solid, fixed bed doesn't need much tinkering once installed. From experience I now know that even thinner beds on my DIY printerd, when properly trammed do not need much leveling, I removed `G29` from my start G-code and seldomly check the Z-offset and the bed geometry meshing unless I had a hard encounter with the bed, or moved the printer.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: I was planning on using machined aluminium, but thank you for confirming it! This is exactly what I meant.  

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