<p>Similar to what @kosteklvp suggested, it turns out the problem was related to the SD card I was using. It was a microSD card with an adapter, which may have been the problem. After swapping it out with for a different SD card, the printer now functions properly.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-04-17T19:43:18.437Z
If this is the case, you probably have powerloss recovery enabled, which incurs a write-to-SD-card at a somewhat unpredictable point near the beginning of each layer, freezing the toolhead with the filament unretracted and remelting/oozing all over your print wherever it happens to occur. Using a faster SD card will partly work around the problem, but the solution is to disable powerloss recovery so it doesn't happen at all.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-04-18T20:52:00.090Z
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE , that makes a lot of sense, I do believe that I have powerloss recovery enabled. However, after swapping SD cards, I don't notice the problem at all, so it's probably worth it to keep it enabled.
Rafael
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-04-19T17:59:27.353Z
If it's not making problems for you, I guess that's okay, but be aware of it in case it starts being a problem. FWIW I don't think the Creality/Marlin powerloss recovery feature is very useful. If you're using a heated bed, when that cools without power, your print will detach or at least warp enough that resuming is likely to detach it from the bed. And powerloss recovery only saves what layer it was at, not the exact position in the layer, so it will reprint where material has already been deposited, thereby overextruding and making it ugly and more likely to collide and knock the print off.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-04-19T18:00:32.083Z
To my knowledge only Prusa has proper powerloss recovery, which works via a giant capacitor keeping the machine running (without heaters) for a few seconds after powerloss is detected so it can save the exact position it was at, park the head, and power down cleanly. Still, I'm not sure how it handles the cooling of the bed.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-04-17T18:26:52.843Z
2023-04-17T18:26:52.843Z
Rafael
<p>To me this looks related to the Z-seam and retraction settings.
Play around with the Z-seam first by setting it to random. it might help. However, the retraction setting need adjusting as well. to me it look like is needs a bit more retraction. Hope it helps.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-04-05T21:48:06.330Z
2023-04-05T21:48:06.330Z
Akriss
<p>After fiddling with the settings on my Cura profile, my Ender 3 S1 is now messing up my prints in a weird way. While printing, it just pauses at a corner on all the layers of the print for a second or so, leading to large blobs of material building up there. <strong>What setting(s), if any could be causing this?</strong></p>
<p>As a note, my Cura settings are anything but default. I mess around with a lot of different options to try to optimize my prints. I could reset the profile to default, but I'd rather keep most of my settings.</p>
<p>Here is a picture of the issue:
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/cJude.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/cJude.jpg" alt="issue" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-04-05T19:56:32.940Z
Do you print from SD card or Octoprint?
kosteklvp
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-04-09T00:34:48.290Z
@kosteklvp an SD card. Should it make a difference?
Rafael
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-04-09T06:04:27.917Z
Yeah, printing from Octoprint can cause this, e.g. from wrongly set Octolapse. Can you share this G-code file?
kosteklvp
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-04-17T18:27:35.043Z
@kosteklvp, you were on the right track! After swapping out the SD card, it now functions normally.
Rafael
<creality-ender-3><print-quality><ultimaker-cura><troubleshooting>
What Cura setting is messing up my prints?
Rafael
# What Cura setting is messing up my prints?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2023-04-05)

After fiddling with the settings on my Cura profile, my Ender 3 S1 is now messing up my prints in a weird way. While printing, it just pauses at a corner on all the layers of the print for a second or so, leading to large blobs of material building up there. **What setting(s), if any could be causing this?**

As a note, my Cura settings are anything but default. I mess around with a lot of different options to try to optimize my prints. I could reset the profile to default, but I'd rather keep most of my settings.

Here is a picture of the issue:
[![issue](https://i.sstatic.net/cJude.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/cJude.jpg)

**Tags:** creality-ender-3, print-quality, ultimaker-cura, troubleshooting

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Do you print from SD card or Octoprint?  
> **username_0**: @username_1 an SD card. Should it make a difference?  
> **username_1**: Yeah, printing from Octoprint can cause this, e.g. from wrongly set Octolapse. Can you share this G-code file?  
> **username_0**: @username_1, you were on the right track! After swapping out the SD card, it now functions normally.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_0 on 2023-04-17. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

Similar to what @username_1 suggested, it turns out the problem was related to the SD card I was using. It was a microSD card with an adapter, which may have been the problem. After swapping it out with for a different SD card, the printer now functions properly.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: If this is the case, you probably have powerloss recovery enabled, which incurs a write-to-SD-card at a somewhat unpredictable point near the beginning of each layer, freezing the toolhead with the filament unretracted and remelting/oozing all over your print wherever it happens to occur. Using a faster SD card will partly work around the problem, but the solution is to disable powerloss recovery so it doesn't happen at all.  
> **username_0**: @username_2 , that makes a lot of sense, I do believe that I have powerloss recovery enabled. However, after swapping SD cards, I don't notice the problem at all, so it's probably worth it to keep it enabled.  
> **username_2**: If it's not making problems for you, I guess that's okay, but be aware of it in case it starts being a problem. FWIW I don't think the Creality/Marlin powerloss recovery feature is very useful. If you're using a heated bed, when that cools without power, your print will detach or at least warp enough that resuming is likely to detach it from the bed. And powerloss recovery only saves what layer it was at, not the exact position in the layer, so it will reprint where material has already been deposited, thereby overextruding and making it ugly and more likely to collide and knock the print off.  
> **username_2**: To my knowledge only Prusa has proper powerloss recovery, which works via a giant capacitor keeping the machine running (without heaters) for a few seconds after powerloss is detected so it can save the exact position it was at, park the head, and power down cleanly. Still, I'm not sure how it handles the cooling of the bed.  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2023-04-05. Score: 1

To me this looks related to the Z-seam and retraction settings.
Play around with the Z-seam first by setting it to random. it might help. However, the retraction setting need adjusting as well. to me it look like is needs a bit more retraction. Hope it helps.


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