<p>If you can upgrade your bed to a magnetic bed with spring steel top all the problems of breaking parts loose go away, the method is you take the spring steel plate off the magnets and twist it gently to allow your part to break loose.</p>

<p>There is a commercial product going under the name <a href="https://3dprintermods.com/home/9-maghold-model-c-for-ff-dreamer-and-compatible-printers.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MagHold</a>. I am not affiliated with them but really like the idea and have it on three of my printers, works great. </p>

<p>For best results overall I recommend PEI material on top of the spring steel plate. the PEI works great for PLA at 50°C and PETG at 80°C. And you can still break both materials loose easily by twisting the plate. No damage to the sides of your parts from prying. </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-12T19:42:20.363Z
2017-05-15T11:26:09.080Z
2017-05-15T11:26:09.080Z
hilo90mhz
<p>I use a product called <a href="http://www.3dlac.com/index.php/en/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3DLAC</a> but I suppose it's regular hairspray. Makes my PLA stick to the heated bed like a charm. After cooling down the print can be removed from the bed with ease.</p>

<p>Only today, after a few thousand prints the glass bed of my printer broke. But I suppose this is because we didn't have enough patience to let the bed cool down to room temperature before removing the printed piece.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-11T20:44:22.317Z
2017-05-12T06:26:32.593Z
2017-05-12T06:26:32.593Z
ON5MF Jurgen
<p>I already spent time reading up on this and quickly worked out there is a lot of useless products out there. Sure they may work however it adds a massive cost to your print. </p>

<p>What I have found works best for heated glass beds is Glue stick, nice and cheap, lasts a long time and has never let me down. Bed temperature is also very important to get right however out of all the products I have tried, Glue Stick works the best. </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-09-01T20:41:00.647Z
And you can clean it off with ordinary isopropyl alcohol when it gets uneven and easily re-apply.
user957902
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-13T10:57:36.560Z
2017-05-14T04:33:56.317Z
2017-05-14T04:33:56.317Z
Brad
<p>There are all sorts of stories of what to put on your printer bed to make your part not come loose when it is printing but can be removed after it is done without requiring a hammer and chisel.</p>

<p>Is there anything out there that shows an analytical comparison?</p>

<p>My biggest interest is PLA on a heated glass base. </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-11T20:27:56.120Z
You are printing with Medium Density Fiberboard?
Davo
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-11T20:41:08.503Z
Thanks, I was just answering a question on MDF and all the TLAs (three letter acronyms) must have gotten scrambled in my brain.
markshancock
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-11T23:16:34.603Z
I don't have an answer to your question, which is a link to an analytical comparison. I suspect you'll get plenty of anecdotal suggestions similar to the first one posted. I'm all for 3M blue tape but it sticks harder when cool. I tend to dribble a bit of 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water around the part and it releases nicely when warm. Works even better on PEI film on a print bed.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-12T02:51:06.443Z
There are certainly a lot of anecdotal suggestions out there and those are helpful; but it would be really helpful if there was something objection.  Anyway If I asked for suggestions, wouldn't that be an "opinion based" question?
markshancock
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-12T02:52:05.360Z
A friend that does a LOT of 3D printing swears by glue stick.
markshancock
<adhesion>
Bed Adhesion materials
markshancock
# Bed Adhesion materials

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-05-11)

There are all sorts of stories of what to put on your printer bed to make your part not come loose when it is printing but can be removed after it is done without requiring a hammer and chisel.

Is there anything out there that shows an analytical comparison?

My biggest interest is PLA on a heated glass base.

**Tags:** adhesion

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: You are printing with Medium Density Fiberboard?  
> **username_0**: Thanks, I was just answering a question on MDF and all the TLAs (three letter acronyms) must have gotten scrambled in my brain.  
> **username_2**: I don't have an answer to your question, which is a link to an analytical comparison. I suspect you'll get plenty of anecdotal suggestions similar to the first one posted. I'm all for 3M blue tape but it sticks harder when cool. I tend to dribble a bit of 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water around the part and it releases nicely when warm. Works even better on PEI film on a print bed.  
> **username_0**: There are certainly a lot of anecdotal suggestions out there and those are helpful; but it would be really helpful if there was something objection.  Anyway If I asked for suggestions, wouldn't that be an "opinion based" question?  
> **username_0**: A friend that does a LOT of 3D printing swears by glue stick.  

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2017-05-12. Score: 4

If you can upgrade your bed to a magnetic bed with spring steel top all the problems of breaking parts loose go away, the method is you take the spring steel plate off the magnets and twist it gently to allow your part to break loose.

There is a commercial product going under the name [MagHold](https://3dprintermods.com/home/9-maghold-model-c-for-ff-dreamer-and-compatible-printers.html). I am not affiliated with them but really like the idea and have it on three of my printers, works great.

For best results overall I recommend PEI material on top of the spring steel plate. the PEI works great for PLA at 50°C and PETG at 80°C. And you can still break both materials loose easily by twisting the plate. No damage to the sides of your parts from prying.


---

### Answer by username_4 on 2017-05-11. Score: 4

I use a product called [3DLAC](http://www.3dlac.com/index.php/en/) but I suppose it's regular hairspray. Makes my PLA stick to the heated bed like a charm. After cooling down the print can be removed from the bed with ease.

Only today, after a few thousand prints the glass bed of my printer broke. But I suppose this is because we didn't have enough patience to let the bed cool down to room temperature before removing the printed piece.


---

### Answer by username_5 on 2017-05-13. Score: 2

I already spent time reading up on this and quickly worked out there is a lot of useless products out there. Sure they may work however it adds a massive cost to your print.

What I have found works best for heated glass beds is Glue stick, nice and cheap, lasts a long time and has never let me down. Bed temperature is also very important to get right however out of all the products I have tried, Glue Stick works the best.

> **Comments:**
> **username_6**: And you can clean it off with ordinary isopropyl alcohol when it gets uneven and easily re-apply.  

---

