<p>Yes there are, the <a href="https://www.dobot.cc/dobot-product-accessories.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">vendor of the printer</a> sells 17 mm length spare nozzles for reasonable prices.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/1owWJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/1owWJ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-28T19:58:05.180Z
Those are actually the original nozzles, but it's 37 bucks for five with shipping, and I don't want to pay that.
Rafael
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-29T06:58:42.833Z
@Rafael Yes they are, but they are available! Prices are very reasonable, I have nozzles that cost over 100 Euro each and e.g. Ultimaker UM 2+ 5 "nozzle pack" is 80 Euro without shipping and e.g. Bondtech CHT 20 Euro without shipping, et. If you want to buy cheap nozzles but you don't have a lathe, an M6 nut and a hacksaw will be enough to trim a Volcano nozzle (saw next to the nut). Make sure to file the threads and deburr the inner hole. With some elbow grease this should be very doable.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-29T08:02:08.510Z
@Rafael If you see the prices they call for a single Ruby nozzle... 7-ish per nozzle is peanuts then.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-28T18:46:46.687Z
2022-04-29T06:42:18.767Z
2022-04-29T06:42:18.767Z
0scar
<p>Could you get an extender made? That would give a larger metal body to hold and conduct heat to the nozzzle tip better, and would allow you to use standard nozzles. What I'm thinking is a cylinder of around 9-12 mm diameter, with one end machined then tapped to be M6 external thread, and the other tapped as M6 internal thread, with a 2 mm hole through the center. If you know someone who has or has access to a lathe and taps, they should be able to do it for you.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-29T01:44:40.367Z
It's a good idea. Unfortunately I don't have access to a lathe but perhaps there's some service that will do it.
Rafael
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-29T08:05:00.270Z
bling hole threading is a PITA if you can't have a gutter at the end... unless you trick the construction and make a 2-parter...
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-28T23:47:13.823Z
2022-04-29T17:28:03.517Z
2022-04-29T17:28:03.517Z
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
<p>I have a semi-diy hotend setup on my MOOZ-2 (an obscure chinese printer). It requires that the total nozzle length (including threading) is longer than 15 mm. So far, I've been using Volcano nozzles because they're the only ones I can find that meet this requirement. However I believe this negatively impacts performance because they stick out way beyond the heater block (see picture below). Unfortunately, the next size I can find are MK8 or V6 nozzles which are 13 mm - too short! Are there any nozzle sizes in between that I could use?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/IN5df.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/IN5df.jpg" alt="Nozzle setup" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-28T18:49:49.267Z
Have you considered using a different hotend instead, so its easier to get new nozzles?
Mast
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-28T21:27:47.097Z
I wish I could. My printer is only semi-diy, and I can only control the length.
Rafael
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-29T06:36:19.180Z
Add an image of the hotend when fastened to the printer. It is quite hard to imagine that you cannot lower the heat break/heater block/nozzle. How DIY is the printer/hotend? What changed to the original printer setup?
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-29T16:32:36.597Z
@Oscar, it's very hard to capture in camera what's going on, but there's a plate installed below the heater block for safety that has a hole for the nozzle. Due to the air gap between it and the heat block, the nozzle must be at least 15mm long to stick out. I cannot move the motor, as the entire extruder setup is mounted inside an aluminum enclosure that I did not make. Nor can I put in a longer heatbreak, as it is the only titanium heatbreak that's M6 threaded (on both ends) that I can find. Most of the components were custom designed for the printer. The only stuff I did is in the picture.
Rafael
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-29T18:04:38.853Z
@Rafael: Aside from being hard to find nozzles for, that sounds like an excellent design. The plate not only provides safety but should greatly aid in cooling (blocking radiant and convective heating from the block onto the part) and avoiding heat loss (same factors) from the block that would reduce flow/efficiency.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-29T18:25:58.607Z
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE, the plate actually contains a thin aluminum channel that blows air from a cooling fan (mounted on the side of the enclosure) directly onto the part.
Rafael
<extruder><diy-3d-printer><hotend><nozzle>
Are there any nozzles shorter than volcano but longer than MK8?
Rafael
# Are there any nozzles shorter than volcano but longer than MK8?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2022-04-28)

I have a semi-diy hotend setup on my MOOZ-2 (an obscure chinese printer). It requires that the total nozzle length (including threading) is longer than 15 mm. So far, I've been using Volcano nozzles because they're the only ones I can find that meet this requirement. However I believe this negatively impacts performance because they stick out way beyond the heater block (see picture below). Unfortunately, the next size I can find are MK8 or V6 nozzles which are 13 mm - too short! Are there any nozzle sizes in between that I could use?

[![Nozzle setup](https://i.sstatic.net/IN5df.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/IN5df.jpg)

**Tags:** extruder, diy-3d-printer, hotend, nozzle

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Have you considered using a different hotend instead, so its easier to get new nozzles?  
> **username_0**: I wish I could. My printer is only semi-diy, and I can only control the length.  
> **username_2**: Add an image of the hotend when fastened to the printer. It is quite hard to imagine that you cannot lower the heat break/heater block/nozzle. How DIY is the printer/hotend? What changed to the original printer setup?  
> **username_0**: @Oscar, it's very hard to capture in camera what's going on, but there's a plate installed below the heater block for safety that has a hole for the nozzle. Due to the air gap between it and the heat block, the nozzle must be at least 15mm long to stick out. I cannot move the motor, as the entire extruder setup is mounted inside an aluminum enclosure that I did not make. Nor can I put in a longer heatbreak, as it is the only titanium heatbreak that's M6 threaded (on both ends) that I can find. Most of the components were custom designed for the printer. The only stuff I did is in the picture.  
> **username_3**: @username_0: Aside from being hard to find nozzles for, that sounds like an excellent design. The plate not only provides safety but should greatly aid in cooling (blocking radiant and convective heating from the block onto the part) and avoiding heat loss (same factors) from the block that would reduce flow/efficiency.  
> **username_0**: @username_3, the plate actually contains a thin aluminum channel that blows air from a cooling fan (mounted on the side of the enclosure) directly onto the part.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2022-04-28. Score: 2

Yes there are, the [vendor of the printer](https://www.dobot.cc/dobot-product-accessories.html) sells 17 mm length spare nozzles for reasonable prices.

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/1owWJ.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/1owWJ.png)

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Those are actually the original nozzles, but it's 37 bucks for five with shipping, and I don't want to pay that.  
> **username_2**: @username_0 Yes they are, but they are available! Prices are very reasonable, I have nozzles that cost over 100 Euro each and e.g. Ultimaker UM 2+ 5 "nozzle pack" is 80 Euro without shipping and e.g. Bondtech CHT 20 Euro without shipping, et. If you want to buy cheap nozzles but you don't have a lathe, an M6 nut and a hacksaw will be enough to trim a Volcano nozzle (saw next to the nut). Make sure to file the threads and deburr the inner hole. With some elbow grease this should be very doable.  
> **username_4**: @username_0 If you see the prices they call for a single Ruby nozzle... 7-ish per nozzle is peanuts then.  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2022-04-28. Score: 2

Could you get an extender made? That would give a larger metal body to hold and conduct heat to the nozzzle tip better, and would allow you to use standard nozzles. What I'm thinking is a cylinder of around 9-12 mm diameter, with one end machined then tapped to be M6 external thread, and the other tapped as M6 internal thread, with a 2 mm hole through the center. If you know someone who has or has access to a lathe and taps, they should be able to do it for you.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: It's a good idea. Unfortunately I don't have access to a lathe but perhaps there's some service that will do it.  
> **username_4**: bling hole threading is a PITA if you can't have a gutter at the end... unless you trick the construction and make a 2-parter...  

---

