<p>Try heating your enclosure to 50C, as well as adding a brim.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-08-30T07:09:07.777Z
Thanks Davo, I don't have a proper enclosure and the makeshift one that I made enclosed the circuit board as well... I'm a bit worried about the circuit board and components being at 50C. Do you think this might cause a problem?
Stephen Archer
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-08-30T11:05:03.073Z
I can't speak for your equipment. My equipment is rated to run at 55C with no issues. See what the manufacturer says.
Davo
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-08-21T13:18:55.677Z
2017-08-21T13:18:55.677Z
Davo
<p>You should enable the "brim" functionality of your slicer. This adds additional perimeters to the first layer, expanding the base of the model. The larger surface area gives more adhesion.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-08-30T07:06:35.170Z
Thanks Tom, unfortunately this didn't really help for me. I have used a brim for ABS in the past and it has worked well but it wasn't helpful for PP.
Stephen Archer
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-08-20T08:08:37.823Z
2017-08-20T08:08:37.823Z
Tom van der Zanden
<p>One thing that seemed to help is making sure the heated bed was 100C. I was able to do this on my Prusa by turning off the front fan (for the whole print). If I have both the fan on and the heated bed at 100C I get the "Heatbed Thermal Runaway" error.</p>

<p>This produced a print that was better but still a bit warped.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-08-30T07:12:57.483Z
2017-08-30T07:12:57.483Z
Stephen Archer
<p>I am wondering if anyone can help me achieve a good 3d print using polypropylene. I am trying to print custom insoles for shoes and I'm getting some bad warping/lifting (see image).</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/ZKi1R.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/ZKi1R.jpg" alt="example of warping using polypropylene"></a></p>

<p>Some details about the print and process:</p>

<ul>
<li>I have a Prusa i3 Mk2S with a Flexion extruder</li>
<li>I am using what I believe is a good quality filament (Verbatim PP): <a href="https://www.verbatim.com.au/3d-printing/pp-filament/3d-pp-filament.html" rel="noreferrer">https://www.verbatim.com.au/3d-printing/pp-filament/3d-pp-filament.html</a></li>
<li>I am coating my hotbead with clear packaging adhesive (OPP tape) as per the manufacturers instructions. This appears to help quite a bit.</li>
<li>Bed heated to 75 degrees. I tried 100 but got hit with the "Heatbed Thermal Runaway" error which I believe indicates that not enough voltage is getting to the bed heater.</li>
<li>I've tried printing at 220 degrees and 170 degrees.</li>
<li>I've tried enclosing the printer in a makeshift enclosure to reduce the speed that the material is cooling at.</li>
<li>Other settings: speed 40mm/s constant, 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill, 3 top bottom and side layers. </li>
</ul>

<p>The print takes about 5 hours and seems to stay down for an hour or two before starting to warp.</p>

<p>Does anyone have any suggestions of things I should try?</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-08-30T20:11:14.100Z
There is a good answer to the similar question that explains a lot: https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/938/what-are-the-ideal-print-conditions-for-polypropylene
Mikhail Z
<filament><print-quality><warping><pp>
Help preventing warping while 3d printing with polypropylene
Stephen Archer
# Help preventing warping while 3d printing with polypropylene

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-08-18)

I am wondering if anyone can help me achieve a good 3d print using polypropylene. I am trying to print custom insoles for shoes and I'm getting some bad warping/lifting (see image).

[![example of warping using polypropylene](https://i.sstatic.net/ZKi1R.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/ZKi1R.jpg)

Some details about the print and process:

* I have a Prusa i3 Mk2S with a Flexion extruder
* I am using what I believe is a good quality filament (Verbatim PP): <https://www.verbatim.com.au/3d-printing/pp-filament/3d-pp-filament.html>
* I am coating my hotbead with clear packaging adhesive (OPP tape) as per the manufacturers instructions. This appears to help quite a bit.
* Bed heated to 75 degrees. I tried 100 but got hit with the "Heatbed Thermal Runaway" error which I believe indicates that not enough voltage is getting to the bed heater.
* I've tried printing at 220 degrees and 170 degrees.
* I've tried enclosing the printer in a makeshift enclosure to reduce the speed that the material is cooling at.
* Other settings: speed 40mm/s constant, 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill, 3 top bottom and side layers.

The print takes about 5 hours and seems to stay down for an hour or two before starting to warp.

Does anyone have any suggestions of things I should try?

**Tags:** filament, print-quality, warping, pp

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: There is a good answer to the similar question that explains a lot: https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/938/what-are-the-ideal-print-conditions-for-polypropylene  

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2017-08-21. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

Try heating your enclosure to 50C, as well as adding a brim.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Thanks username_2, I don't have a proper enclosure and the makeshift one that I made enclosed the circuit board as well... I'm a bit worried about the circuit board and components being at 50C. Do you think this might cause a problem?  
> **username_2**: I can't speak for your equipment. My equipment is rated to run at 55C with no issues. See what the manufacturer says.  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2017-08-20. Score: 2

You should enable the "brim" functionality of your slicer. This adds additional perimeters to the first layer, expanding the base of the model. The larger surface area gives more adhesion.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Thanks Tom, unfortunately this didn't really help for me. I have used a brim for ABS in the past and it has worked well but it wasn't helpful for PP.  

---

### Answer by username_0 on 2017-08-30. Score: 1

One thing that seemed to help is making sure the heated bed was 100C. I was able to do this on my Prusa by turning off the front fan (for the whole print). If I have both the fan on and the heated bed at 100C I get the "Heatbed Thermal Runaway" error.

This produced a print that was better but still a bit warped.


---

