<p>I've just been through the same problem using the flex bed on the Kobra Max, but it was there with the glass before as well, it was just a little better.</p>
<p>Some problems I did notice:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>When you remove the plastic cover on the printer head, you will notice the strain gauge is already stressed by some wire pushing on the heat sink. If you tie the cover aside to make sure it can blow on the heat sink without adding stress on it and you do the calibration, it improved the results for me.</p>
<p>Something bad I did notice is that by power cycling the printer and redoing the nozzle touching step at the beginning of the leveling process, the pressure required to light the red led was not the same at all from time to time. So I guess the strain gauge is probably calibrating on power on but not in a reliable way obviously.</p>
</li>
<li><p>When I put the plastic cover back in place on the printer head, I could not have the red LED (on the strain gauge PCB) to stay off so there is something pushing on it while it is tightened so it has to be less sensitive when it's assembled (IMO). I could not yet find what is pushing on it, I would have to sit inside the box to see...</p>
</li>
<li><p>After having the leveling done without the plastic cover on the printer's head and having power cycled the printer until the nozzle touching step was the most sensitive before the leveling, all my test squares near the outside of the bed were good but the ones in the middle were much thinner.</p>
</li>
<li><p>What seems to be the major problem in this leveling process is that it is doing its leveling process at a fixed temperature (60 °C). So if your bed has to reach 100 °C for ABS, for example, the aluminum heating bed will expand but not the cold steel bracket holding it underneath, so the bed gets higher in the middle.</p>
</li>
<li><p>If you succeed to get even tests around your bed and only the ones in the middle are thinner, try to print with the bed at 60 °C (same temp as its leveling) and it will be perfect :). But yes, I know you want the bed at 100 °C for ABS. For this, I have no fix, they will have to update their firmware so we can level at any temp.</p>
</li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-03-28T16:08:16.917Z
2023-03-28T17:08:51.913Z
2023-03-28T17:08:51.913Z
Esenic
<p>The issue seems to be mostly left/right.</p>
<p>The cause is a twisted X extrusion or rail together with a probe which has a X and Y offset compared to the nozzle, therefore it reads wrong values.</p>
<p>See <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/22791" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/22791</a></p>
<p>If you cannot correct the mesh manually, try to straighten the axis, or add a counterweight behind the axis as heavy as the toolhead.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-06-08T14:32:20.967Z
2023-06-08T14:32:20.967Z
FarO
<p>Setup: Anycubic Kobra Neo (Firmware v1.3.3), Cura 5.2.1</p>
<p>I recently bought an Anycubic Kobra Neo.
It works but has issues with auto bed leveling. Specifically, auto bed leveling does not compensate for bed tilt in X and Y directions correctly. After running the auto leveling, the printer consistently prints higher up in the right back corner, compared to the front left corner of the build plate.</p>
<p>The problem does not seem to be related to auto bed leveling being disabled though. While printing, you can see the Z lead screw turning, so the printer definitely tries to compensate for something.</p>
<p>What I tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>Print Z calibration patterns</li>
<li>Run auto leveling again using the attached controller</li>
<li>Run auto leveling again with the <code>G29</code> command and prior <code>G28</code> to home, followed by <code>M500</code> to save the mesh</li>
<li>Add <code>M420 S1</code> to start G-code (also tried <code>M420 L</code> and both together)</li>
<li>Reset EEPROM with <code>M502</code></li>
<li>Use Repetier Host instead of Cura</li>
<li>Used different filament</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/ct23e.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Z Calibration Pattern"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/ct23e.jpg" alt="Z Calibration Pattern" title="Z Calibration Pattern" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/DAEZC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Front left Corner of Z Calibration Pattern"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/DAEZC.jpg" alt="Front left Corner of Z Calibration Pattern" title="Front left Corner of Z Calibration Pattern" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/KYVaG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Back Right Corner of Z Calibration Pattern"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/KYVaG.jpg" alt="Back Right Corner of Z Calibration Pattern" title="Back Right Corner of Z Calibration Pattern" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-01-25T15:58:49.200Z
It could depend on the way the leveling mesh is implemented, is it a mesh or straight mean plane through the measured points. How many probings do you see, 3, 9, 16, 25?
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-01-25T17:28:17.770Z
@0scar From what I can tell looking at the [firmware](https://github.com/ANYCUBIC-3D/Kobra_Neo/blob/master/source/Marlin/Configuration.h#L1349) it does 25 point bilinear mesh leveling.
thebear8
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-01-26T09:54:21.277Z
Maybe you could change to a different leveling process, e.g. UBL or MBL and edit the mesh yourself to see if you can get it closer.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-01-26T20:04:02.737Z
@0scar Is there a way to change to a different leveling process without flashing a different firmware?
thebear8
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-01-26T23:15:27.423Z
That is not possible
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-06-03T17:50:23.567Z
Have you found a solution for this? I'm having same issue and been at it for like 5 months and still no level bed
Spazz
CC BY-SA 4.0
2023-06-03T21:05:49.957Z
Unfortunately not. I found it helps to print things centered, but i still have not solved the problem. Please let me know if you manage to solve it!
thebear8
<ultimaker-cura><bed-leveling><calibration><z-probe><anycubic-kobra-neo>
Auto Bed Leveling does not compensate for bed tilt correctly (Anycubic Kobra Neo)
thebear8
# Auto Bed Leveling does not compensate for bed tilt correctly (Anycubic Kobra Neo)

(Asked by: username_0 on 2023-01-25)

Setup: Anycubic Kobra Neo (Firmware v1.3.3), Cura 5.2.1

I recently bought an Anycubic Kobra Neo.
It works but has issues with auto bed leveling. Specifically, auto bed leveling does not compensate for bed tilt in X and Y directions correctly. After running the auto leveling, the printer consistently prints higher up in the right back corner, compared to the front left corner of the build plate.

The problem does not seem to be related to auto bed leveling being disabled though. While printing, you can see the Z lead screw turning, so the printer definitely tries to compensate for something.

What I tried:

* Print Z calibration patterns
* Run auto leveling again using the attached controller
* Run auto leveling again with the `G29` command and prior `G28` to home, followed by `M500` to save the mesh
* Add `M420 S1` to start G-code (also tried `M420 L` and both together)
* Reset EEPROM with `M502`
* Use Repetier Host instead of Cura
* Used different filament

[![Z Calibration Pattern](https://i.sstatic.net/ct23e.jpg "Z Calibration Pattern")](https://i.sstatic.net/ct23e.jpg "Z Calibration Pattern")

[![Front left Corner of Z Calibration Pattern](https://i.sstatic.net/DAEZC.jpg "Front left Corner of Z Calibration Pattern")](https://i.sstatic.net/DAEZC.jpg "Front left Corner of Z Calibration Pattern")

[![Back Right Corner of Z Calibration Pattern](https://i.sstatic.net/KYVaG.jpg "Back Right Corner of Z Calibration Pattern")](https://i.sstatic.net/KYVaG.jpg "Back Right Corner of Z Calibration Pattern")

**Tags:** ultimaker-cura, bed-leveling, calibration, z-probe, anycubic-kobra-neo

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: It could depend on the way the leveling mesh is implemented, is it a mesh or straight mean plane through the measured points. How many probings do you see, 3, 9, 16, 25?  
> **username_0**: @username_1 From what I can tell looking at the [firmware](https://github.com/ANYCUBIC-3D/Kobra_Neo/blob/master/source/Marlin/Configuration.h#L1349) it does 25 point bilinear mesh leveling.  
> **username_1**: Maybe you could change to a different leveling process, e.g. UBL or MBL and edit the mesh yourself to see if you can get it closer.  
> **username_0**: @username_1 Is there a way to change to a different leveling process without flashing a different firmware?  
> **username_1**: That is not possible  
> **username_2**: Have you found a solution for this? I'm having same issue and been at it for like 5 months and still no level bed  
> **username_0**: Unfortunately not. I found it helps to print things centered, but i still have not solved the problem. Please let me know if you manage to solve it!  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2023-03-28. Score: 2

I've just been through the same problem using the flex bed on the Kobra Max, but it was there with the glass before as well, it was just a little better.

Some problems I did notice:

* When you remove the plastic cover on the printer head, you will notice the strain gauge is already stressed by some wire pushing on the heat sink. If you tie the cover aside to make sure it can blow on the heat sink without adding stress on it and you do the calibration, it improved the results for me.

  Something bad I did notice is that by power cycling the printer and redoing the nozzle touching step at the beginning of the leveling process, the pressure required to light the red led was not the same at all from time to time. So I guess the strain gauge is probably calibrating on power on but not in a reliable way obviously.
* When I put the plastic cover back in place on the printer head, I could not have the red LED (on the strain gauge PCB) to stay off so there is something pushing on it while it is tightened so it has to be less sensitive when it's assembled (IMO). I could not yet find what is pushing on it, I would have to sit inside the box to see...
* After having the leveling done without the plastic cover on the printer's head and having power cycled the printer until the nozzle touching step was the most sensitive before the leveling, all my test squares near the outside of the bed were good but the ones in the middle were much thinner.
* What seems to be the major problem in this leveling process is that it is doing its leveling process at a fixed temperature (60 °C). So if your bed has to reach 100 °C for ABS, for example, the aluminum heating bed will expand but not the cold steel bracket holding it underneath, so the bed gets higher in the middle.
* If you succeed to get even tests around your bed and only the ones in the middle are thinner, try to print with the bed at 60 °C (same temp as its leveling) and it will be perfect :). But yes, I know you want the bed at 100 °C for ABS. For this, I have no fix, they will have to update their firmware so we can level at any temp.


---

### Answer by username_4 on 2023-06-08. Score: 1

The issue seems to be mostly left/right.

The cause is a twisted X extrusion or rail together with a probe which has a X and Y offset compared to the nozzle, therefore it reads wrong values.

See <https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/22791>

If you cannot correct the mesh manually, try to straighten the axis, or add a counterweight behind the axis as heavy as the toolhead.


---

