<p>I've had this problem in the past with a Flux Delta printer. The first attempt to resolve it was to always use a brim along with a raft. The brim will often have settings to allow number of passes as well as number of layers. If you are not using the brim to provide adhesion, you still can use it to prime the nozzle.</p>

<p>Later versions of the software allowed for start g-code which moved the nozzle to the edge of the print area and extruded 10-40 mm of filament, also providing for priming the nozzle.</p>

<p>You've not noted what slicer you are using. You may find there are suitable locations to position the head to an unused area, run a few mm of filament, then begin your print. </p>

<p>Amazon Q&amp;A says your printer accepts g-code, which implies the slicer generates same. </p>

<p>In combination with a brim, you may have your solution. I've also found that you have a heated bed. If you have a cold spot on the bed, adhesion may be a problem, although I think that is not the case, based on your description.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-14T01:20:11.840Z
I'm using the MakerBot slicer right now, which does put a line to clear out/prime the extruder on the front off the bed, but that doesn't seem to be enough. I don't have options for that feature. What slicer do you use for your printer?
Logarr
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-14T13:52:00.480Z
I'm using the paid version of Simplify3D for my slicer. I did a quick check of your software and found that you can edit profiles in a text editor: http://support.makerbot.com/learn/makerbot-desktop-software/print-settings/editing-custom-profiles-directly_11972 and make very specific changes. I would suggest to create a backup of the document prior to making changes. I find there is a start gcode entry in the document. You may be able to make the necessary change there. There is also an Anchor setting that may be of value. I didn't see an option for brim or skirt (synonymous) for the slicer.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-15T04:07:28.993Z
@fred_dot_u Good catch about makerware not having the brim or skirt function in their slicer (what!?).  Your comment about brim and skirt being synonymous may lead some people to think they're the same.  Brim is mostly intended for added hold down and it touches the print.  Skirt is mostly intended for nozzle purging and it doesn't touch the print.  [S3D does it this way too.](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/)  :-)
Chris Thompson
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-15T12:20:05.593Z
Thanks for the clarification. I'd edit my error out but comments don't have edit feature. Reading the reference information for anchor in the makerware software makes me suspect that it's the equivalent of brim, but I don't have the software or related resources to determine that. I should have read your answer more thoroughly.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-14T01:11:06.723Z
2016-10-14T01:11:06.723Z
fred_dot_u
<p><strong>I'd recommend using the "skirt" function</strong> if you're not already.  </p>

<p>The idea is to print a few perimeter layers around where your part will be, but not actually touching your part.  </p>

<p>Most slicers support this and you can choose how much skirt you want to print.  This addresses the issue you mention, and it purges old filament that has spent too much time in the nozzle.  As an added bonus, it gives you a good indication that your print location, print height, and first layer adhesion are all good.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-14T01:12:33.650Z
2016-10-14T01:12:33.650Z
Chris Thompson
<p>I have a QIDI Tech 1. It has a heated bed, and a cooling fan attachment. Whenever I print without a raft, the first inch or two of material laid down does not adhere to the bed, but the rest of the first layer is flawless.</p>

<p>I have tried speeding up and slowing down the first layer walls, but the problem remains. It also seemed to get a little worse when slower. I also tried not turning on the cooling fan for a bit to see if maybe the material was cooling too quickly, but that had zero effect on it.</p>

<p>I'd like to avoid using tape and other methods since the rest of the print is perfect, and the bed already has a material on it to aid adhesion.</p>

<p>What else can I try to prevent the dragging for the start of the print?</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-10-17T15:09:39.373Z
In addition to the answers, see if your gcode is heating the bed first or the extruder head first.  I recommend bed-first, because that allows the entire bed to equilibrate (not just around the thermistor) while the extruder is being heated.
Carl Witthoft
<pla><adhesion>
Poor adhesion only for first couple of inches
Logarr
# Poor adhesion only for first couple of inches

(Asked by: username_0 on 2016-10-14)

I have a QIDI Tech 1. It has a heated bed, and a cooling fan attachment. Whenever I print without a raft, the first inch or two of material laid down does not adhere to the bed, but the rest of the first layer is flawless.

I have tried speeding up and slowing down the first layer walls, but the problem remains. It also seemed to get a little worse when slower. I also tried not turning on the cooling fan for a bit to see if maybe the material was cooling too quickly, but that had zero effect on it.

I'd like to avoid using tape and other methods since the rest of the print is perfect, and the bed already has a material on it to aid adhesion.

What else can I try to prevent the dragging for the start of the print?

**Tags:** pla, adhesion

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: In addition to the answers, see if your gcode is heating the bed first or the extruder head first.  I recommend bed-first, because that allows the entire bed to equilibrate (not just around the thermistor) while the extruder is being heated.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2016-10-14. Score: 3 | Accepted answer

I've had this problem in the past with a Flux Delta printer. The first attempt to resolve it was to always use a brim along with a raft. The brim will often have settings to allow number of passes as well as number of layers. If you are not using the brim to provide adhesion, you still can use it to prime the nozzle.

Later versions of the software allowed for start g-code which moved the nozzle to the edge of the print area and extruded 10-40 mm of filament, also providing for priming the nozzle.

You've not noted what slicer you are using. You may find there are suitable locations to position the head to an unused area, run a few mm of filament, then begin your print.

Amazon Q&A says your printer accepts g-code, which implies the slicer generates same.

In combination with a brim, you may have your solution. I've also found that you have a heated bed. If you have a cold spot on the bed, adhesion may be a problem, although I think that is not the case, based on your description.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: I'm using the MakerBot slicer right now, which does put a line to clear out/prime the extruder on the front off the bed, but that doesn't seem to be enough. I don't have options for that feature. What slicer do you use for your printer?  
> **username_2**: I'm using the paid version of Simplify3D for my slicer. I did a quick check of your software and found that you can edit profiles in a text editor: http://support.makerbot.com/learn/makerbot-desktop-software/print-settings/editing-custom-profiles-directly_11972 and make very specific changes. I would suggest to create a backup of the document prior to making changes. I find there is a start gcode entry in the document. You may be able to make the necessary change there. There is also an Anchor setting that may be of value. I didn't see an option for brim or skirt (synonymous) for the slicer.  
> **username_3**: @username_2 Good catch about makerware not having the brim or skirt function in their slicer (what!?).  Your comment about brim and skirt being synonymous may lead some people to think they're the same.  Brim is mostly intended for added hold down and it touches the print.  Skirt is mostly intended for nozzle purging and it doesn't touch the print.  [S3D does it this way too.](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/)  :-)  
> **username_2**: Thanks for the clarification. I'd edit my error out but comments don't have edit feature. Reading the reference information for anchor in the makerware software makes me suspect that it's the equivalent of brim, but I don't have the software or related resources to determine that. I should have read your answer more thoroughly.  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2016-10-14. Score: 4

**I'd recommend using the "skirt" function** if you're not already.

The idea is to print a few perimeter layers around where your part will be, but not actually touching your part.

Most slicers support this and you can choose how much skirt you want to print. This addresses the issue you mention, and it purges old filament that has spent too much time in the nozzle. As an added bonus, it gives you a good indication that your print location, print height, and first layer adhesion are all good.


---

