<p>Masonite or hardboard is a high-density board without a resin. It is <a href="https://www.chromaluxe.com/wp-content/uploads/SDS-Hardboard-Universal-Woods.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">listed</a> at around 200 to 275 °C for its autoignition temperature. Just for comparison, let's look at similar products.</p>
<p>Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is similar to hardboard but bonded with a resin, offering a smoother surface and is <a href="https://www.westfraser.com/sites/default/files/products/MDF/WP-GoldPlus%202013.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">listed</a> at 200 to 275 °C, so pretty close.</p>
<p>The heavier High-density fiberboard variant is <a href="http://www.clarionindustries.com/assets/files/Clarion-msds-hdf.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">listed</a> with about the same temperatures of about 200 to 275 °C.</p>
<p>Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is <a href="http://www.langboard.com/osb/data/osb_msds.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">listed</a> at 200 to 260 °C.</p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>All the materials have very similar autoignition temperatures, so none of them particularly shines over the other. Using a proper fire safety procedure is highly encouraged, even though the ambient temperature in the enclosure should not reach even close to the 200 °C unless the printer has a freak accident and catches fire itself.</p>
<ul>
<li>A smoke detector is a must.</li>
<li>Some kind of cooling method that keeps the inside at a temperature down is highly encouraged. A simple temperature activated fan might help in this.</li>
<li>Lining the inside of the box with a thicker aluminium or copper tape can help to even out the temperature over the surfaces faster, preventing the formation of hotspots that might otherwise reach dangerous temperatures. <a href="https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/copper-tapes/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Copper tapes</a> are more expensive than <a href="https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/aluminium-tapes/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Aluminium tapes</a> but have a better heat transfer coefficient.<sup>1</sup></li>
<li>Including an automatic fire suppression system could be an option.</li>
</ul>
<p><sup>1 - The RS Catalogue was just chosen for ease of navigation. <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">McMaster Carr</a> does list special <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3591" rel="nofollow noreferrer">heat shielding tape</a> in both thin and aluminium as well as <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3587" rel="nofollow noreferrer">copper and aluminium foil</a> tapes. I am not affiliated to either.</sup></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-04T16:16:55.247Z
Definite plus for lining the box- if you use aluminum foil, make sure it's "shiny side up" as that will miminize heat transfer to the Masonite sheet.
Carl Witthoft
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-04T16:27:13.120Z
@CarlWitthoft I would not use the standard foil but something thicker like real [Aluminium tape](https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/aluminium-tapes/) (RS catalogue for variety of brands and types), that is far thicker
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-04T07:51:28.460Z
2019-03-04T18:43:33.317Z
2020-06-18T08:29:41.667Z
Trish
<p>Hardboard is called <em>Masonite</em> here in the States because that is the trade name of the product. If you look up the <a href="http://www.gunnersens.co.nz/images/stories/products/Masonite%20Standard/specs/Australian_Hardboards_Masonite_MSDS.pdf" rel="noreferrer">Material Safety Data Sheet</a> you will see Masonite it states the following (Section 5):</p>

<blockquote>
  <p>Auto-ignition Temperature (°C): >200 degrees Celsius</p>
</blockquote>

<p>In Section 7, it states:</p>

<blockquote>
  <p>These boards are flammable but difficult to ignite.</p>
</blockquote>

<p>Furthermore in Section 10, it states:</p>

<blockquote>
  <p><strong>Conditions to avoid:</strong> Avoid sources of radiant heat and flame; and avoid sparks and sources of ignition in all electrical equipment, including dust extraction equipment.
  Avoid excessive build up of dust from boards.</p>
</blockquote>

<p>The hot end works of printers are neither radiant heat, nor flames, nor sparks. Yes, you'll have a buildup of heat within the working confines of an enclosure, but if you are only using it for a base there should be absolutely no issues. If you were to build an entire enclosure from hardboard, you could put a thermal probe inside with the printer to ensure it doesn't get too hot, but realistically, it will never get hot enough within the enclosure to light the hardboard on fire.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-04T01:43:09.130Z
Yes. Thanks. I have to do the thermal probe + smoke detector. The rest of the enclosure is going to be plexiglass (whose glass transaction temperature can start ~85 celsius). I am only printing PLA, so it would be a severe malfunction to bring the inside "ambient" temperature of the enclosure so high.
rufo
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-04T01:15:56.230Z
2019-03-04T01:15:56.230Z
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
<p>I am looking for the temperature rating for hardboard. I want to use that as the base for my printer enclosure. </p>

<p>It has proven incredible hard get a ball-park figure from Google. </p>

<p>So, what is the maximum safe temperature for a hardboard panel at long term? (considering a print job can easily take 6 hours).</p>

<p>PS: if you have used a hardboard to build your enclosure, your experience might be helpful.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-03T23:52:19.883Z
You are just wanting to use it as the enclosure? No hot parts should be touching it, right?
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-04T00:25:15.543Z
@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2, right. No hot parts in direct contact with it (but close to some stepper motors, like 10-20mm apart).
rufo
<enclosure>
Using hardboard for 3D printer enclosure; what is the temperature rating of hardboard?
rufo
# Using hardboard for 3D printer enclosure; what is the temperature rating of hardboard?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-03-03)

I am looking for the temperature rating for hardboard. I want to use that as the base for my printer enclosure.

It has proven incredible hard get a ball-park figure from Google.

So, what is the maximum safe temperature for a hardboard panel at long term? (considering a print job can easily take 6 hours).

PS: if you have used a hardboard to build your enclosure, your experience might be helpful.

**Tags:** enclosure

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: You are just wanting to use it as the enclosure? No hot parts should be touching it, right?  
> **username_0**: @username_1, right. No hot parts in direct contact with it (but close to some stepper motors, like 10-20mm apart).  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2019-03-04. Score: 5 | Accepted answer

Hardboard is called *Masonite* here in the States because that is the trade name of the product. If you look up the [Material Safety Data Sheet](http://www.gunnersens.co.nz/images/stories/products/Masonite%20Standard/specs/Australian_Hardboards_Masonite_MSDS.pdf) you will see Masonite it states the following (Section 5):

> Auto-ignition Temperature (°C): >200 degrees Celsius

In Section 7, it states:

> These boards are flammable but difficult to ignite.

Furthermore in Section 10, it states:

> **Conditions to avoid:** Avoid sources of radiant heat and flame; and avoid sparks and sources of ignition in all electrical equipment, including dust extraction equipment.
> Avoid excessive build up of dust from boards.

The hot end works of printers are neither radiant heat, nor flames, nor sparks. Yes, you'll have a buildup of heat within the working confines of an enclosure, but if you are only using it for a base there should be absolutely no issues. If you were to build an entire enclosure from hardboard, you could put a thermal probe inside with the printer to ensure it doesn't get too hot, but realistically, it will never get hot enough within the enclosure to light the hardboard on fire.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Yes. Thanks. I have to do the thermal probe + smoke detector. The rest of the enclosure is going to be plexiglass (whose glass transaction temperature can start ~85 celsius). I am only printing PLA, so it would be a severe malfunction to bring the inside "ambient" temperature of the enclosure so high.  

---

### Answer by username_2 on 2019-03-04. Score: 4

Masonite or hardboard is a high-density board without a resin. It is [listed](https://www.chromaluxe.com/wp-content/uploads/SDS-Hardboard-Universal-Woods.pdf) at around 200 to 275 °C for its autoignition temperature. Just for comparison, let's look at similar products.

Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is similar to hardboard but bonded with a resin, offering a smoother surface and is [listed](https://www.westfraser.com/sites/default/files/products/MDF/WP-GoldPlus%202013.pdf) at 200 to 275 °C, so pretty close.

The heavier High-density fiberboard variant is [listed](http://www.clarionindustries.com/assets/files/Clarion-msds-hdf.pdf) with about the same temperatures of about 200 to 275 °C.

Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is [listed](http://www.langboard.com/osb/data/osb_msds.pdf) at 200 to 260 °C.

## Conclusion

All the materials have very similar autoignition temperatures, so none of them particularly shines over the other. Using a proper fire safety procedure is highly encouraged, even though the ambient temperature in the enclosure should not reach even close to the 200 °C unless the printer has a freak accident and catches fire itself.

* A smoke detector is a must.
* Some kind of cooling method that keeps the inside at a temperature down is highly encouraged. A simple temperature activated fan might help in this.
* Lining the inside of the box with a thicker aluminium or copper tape can help to even out the temperature over the surfaces faster, preventing the formation of hotspots that might otherwise reach dangerous temperatures. [Copper tapes](https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/copper-tapes/) are more expensive than [Aluminium tapes](https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/aluminium-tapes/) but have a better heat transfer coefficient.1
* Including an automatic fire suppression system could be an option.

1 - The RS Catalogue was just chosen for ease of navigation. [McMaster Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/) does list special [heat shielding tape](https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3591) in both thin and aluminium as well as [copper and aluminium foil](https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3587) tapes. I am not affiliated to either.

> **Comments:**
> **username_3**: Definite plus for lining the box- if you use aluminum foil, make sure it's "shiny side up" as that will miminize heat transfer to the Masonite sheet.  
> **username_2**: @username_3 I would not use the standard foil but something thicker like real [Aluminium tape](https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/aluminium-tapes/) (RS catalogue for variety of brands and types), that is far thicker  

---

