<p>Sure, but you need to be careful not to have wide or narrow spots. A fixture for this is probably better than freehand welding.</p>

<p>See some ideas for a homemade fuser at <a href="https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-join-or-fuse-filament-together" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-join-or-fuse-filament-together</a> </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-15T21:38:40.793Z
That is actually really neat, I will have to give it a try! Thank you
Ljk2000
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-15T20:45:11.063Z
2018-02-15T20:45:11.063Z
Davo
<p>As @davo says in his answer, this can be done rather easily, but the main problem with this kind of approach is reliability of the joint: sure, it must last only a short time, but during that time it will have to survive bending through your bowden tube (if applicable) and withstanding the grinding of the hobbed gear pushing it through the extruder.</p>

<p>I personally only used the <a href="https://youtu.be/7Vuh4Mwm_4k" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PTFE method (plus heat gun)</a>, which is substantially identical to the tinfoil one outlined in the link provided by @davo but here's a couple of observations:</p>

<ul>
<li><strong>Freshly cut filament seem to work best</strong>.  I guess this is because there is less chances for contaminants like dust, skin oil etc... to find their way to the surfaces you are trying to bond.</li>
<li>I had <strong>no problem melting together PLAs of different brands</strong>.</li>
<li><strong>You may have to tune the flow "on the fly" via the knob on the printer</strong> to accommodate for different diameters between the two spools you spliced (not applicable to your specific case of "plastic surgery" (pun intended!) on the same spool.</li>
<li>I find the bond <strong>works best if the two filaments are cut at an angle</strong> (so that the actual bonding surface is larger)</li>
<li>A <strong>light sanding to smooth out any seam and reduce the diameter</strong> of melted part a bit is in order</li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-15T22:58:47.713Z
2018-02-15T22:58:47.713Z
mac
<p>While I don't think this is easily possible I am wondering if it can be done. So my spool of filament had a tangle and got pulled into the printer head. Some got melted together and after cutting I have a few strands. Would it be possible to mend the ends together to make one continuous strand instead of many small strand?</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-16T09:52:43.257Z
How much are we talking about? A 1 kilo 1,75mm spool holds around 333 meters, is it really worth it? Interesting question though for other uses.
Valmond
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-17T00:32:19.180Z
@Valmond No particular amount, size, or material. I am asking more in a general stand point. But knowing there is a way I might gather the little pieces I have left from spools and mend them together, I like to waste as little as possible after all.
Ljk2000
<filament>
Mending filament?
Ljk2000
# Mending filament?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2018-02-15)

While I don't think this is easily possible I am wondering if it can be done. So my spool of filament had a tangle and got pulled into the printer head. Some got melted together and after cutting I have a few strands. Would it be possible to mend the ends together to make one continuous strand instead of many small strand?

**Tags:** filament

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: How much are we talking about? A 1 kilo 1,75mm spool holds around 333 meters, is it really worth it? Interesting question though for other uses.  
> **username_0**: @username_1 No particular amount, size, or material. I am asking more in a general stand point. But knowing there is a way I might gather the little pieces I have left from spools and mend them together, I like to waste as little as possible after all.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2018-02-15. Score: 4

Sure, but you need to be careful not to have wide or narrow spots. A fixture for this is probably better than freehand welding.

See some ideas for a homemade fuser at <https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-join-or-fuse-filament-together>

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: That is actually really neat, I will have to give it a try! Thank you  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2018-02-15. Score: 1

As @username_2 says in his answer, this can be done rather easily, but the main problem with this kind of approach is reliability of the joint: sure, it must last only a short time, but during that time it will have to survive bending through your bowden tube (if applicable) and withstanding the grinding of the hobbed gear pushing it through the extruder.

I personally only used the [PTFE method (plus heat gun)](https://youtu.be/7Vuh4Mwm_4k), which is substantially identical to the tinfoil one outlined in the link provided by @username_2 but here's a couple of observations:

* **Freshly cut filament seem to work best**. I guess this is because there is less chances for contaminants like dust, skin oil etc... to find their way to the surfaces you are trying to bond.
* I had **no problem melting together PLAs of different brands**.
* **You may have to tune the flow "on the fly" via the knob on the printer** to accommodate for different diameters between the two spools you spliced (not applicable to your specific case of "plastic surgery" (pun intended!) on the same spool.
* I find the bond **works best if the two filaments are cut at an angle** (so that the actual bonding surface is larger)
* A **light sanding to smooth out any seam and reduce the diameter** of melted part a bit is in order


---

