<p>If you're a brave individual you might try insulating the bottom of your heated bed. You're going to want to get fiberglass or something that can actually withstand the temperatures you're trying to reach; anything past about 230&nbsp;&deg;C and you'll get organic things like cork and cotton starting to smoke. 200&nbsp;&deg;C is pretty absurd for a print bed temperature unless you're printing some pretty exotic materials.</p>

<p>Aside from insulating the bottom of the bed to aid in heat retention, you might also try getting an external FET chip for your heated bed, like is recommended for the RAMPS1.4 boards since their connectors don't handle high amperage loads well. External FET plus a 24&nbsp;V PSU might give you the kind of temperature range you're apparently aiming for. Best of luck with that, and try not to set your entire setup on fire, 200&nbsp;&deg;C really is kind of absurd for an entire print plate.</p>

<p><strong>TL;DR:</strong></p>

<ol>
<li>Insulate</li>
<li>External FET chip</li>
<li>24V PSU</li>
</ol>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-02T21:48:13.043Z
24V PSU on a heatbed designed for 12V will result in a 4x power increase. This could easily cause localised overheating. I feel 15 or 16V would be safer to over-drive the bed.
Sean Houlihane
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-04T16:20:25.543Z
I don't disagree that's a pretty massive power jump, a slightly lower voltage might be a better option, but if he's got an aluminum heated bed and/or a glass plate up top I think he'd be fine.
Nach0z
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-01T14:07:45.743Z
2019-07-01T14:46:10.640Z
2019-07-01T14:46:10.640Z
Nach0z
<p>Inspired by the answer from Nach0z, according to my back of the notepad radiative emission approximation, you need about a 3x increase in bed dissipation to get from <span class="math-container">$ \Delta T$</span> of 130 °C up to 170 °C. So that would correspond to an increase from 12 V <em>at the bed</em> to 18 V. As the current increases, the wire losses would also increase. </p>

<p>Sounds like a high power laptop charger could possibly fit the bill at 19V. Obviously this leaves a risk that the bed will be damaged, but I think it is better to aim for a steady load rather than pwm and a higher peak energy than necessary.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-05T08:56:32.653Z
2019-07-05T08:56:32.653Z
Sean Houlihane
<p>I am in college and am doing a team competition to print PPSU filament, and get the best results. This is being put on by the Solvay company, who makes the material. Our team signed up and the university bought us an <a href="https://www.intamsys.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intamsys</a> <a href="https://www.intamsys.com/funmat-ht-3d-printer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Funmat HT</a> 3D Printer, which said it was capable of printing PPSU. However, the company doing the competition did not release the information that the bed plate must be a high temperature to avoid warping (Greater than 200 °C). However, our plate only reaches a temperature of 160. Does anyone know of any aftermarket heaters that would work with this printer?</p>

<p>Maximum temperatures according to Intamys: Chamber 90 °C, Magnetic Build Plate 160 °C, Extruder 450 °C</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-18T13:06:07.180Z
No, but we print with Solvay PPSU. I can give some parameters if you ask for them in a new question.
Davo
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-02T12:48:52.677Z
After research, Intamsys is a closed, high industrial grade producer of 3D Printers. To even learn prices, you have to request a quote, hinting they cost in the 5000 $ up range. Some of these machines come with service contracts and modifying can break them. It's 'brother', the FUNMAT PRO 610 HT, can achieve 300 °C build chamber and bed though.
Trish
<print-quality>
After market bed heater for Intamsys Funmat HT 3D Printer
Fre-e-
# After market bed heater for Intamsys Funmat HT 3D Printer

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-01-17)

I am in college and am doing a team competition to print PPSU filament, and get the best results. This is being put on by the Solvay company, who makes the material. Our team signed up and the university bought us an [Intamsys](https://www.intamsys.com/) [Funmat HT](https://www.intamsys.com/funmat-ht-3d-printer/) 3D Printer, which said it was capable of printing PPSU. However, the company doing the competition did not release the information that the bed plate must be a high temperature to avoid warping (Greater than 200 °C). However, our plate only reaches a temperature of 160. Does anyone know of any aftermarket heaters that would work with this printer?

Maximum temperatures according to Intamys: Chamber 90 °C, Magnetic Build Plate 160 °C, Extruder 450 °C

**Tags:** print-quality

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: No, but we print with Solvay PPSU. I can give some parameters if you ask for them in a new question.  
> **username_2**: After research, Intamsys is a closed, high industrial grade producer of 3D Printers. To even learn prices, you have to request a quote, hinting they cost in the 5000 $ up range. Some of these machines come with service contracts and modifying can break them. It's 'brother', the FUNMAT PRO 610 HT, can achieve 300 °C build chamber and bed though.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2019-07-01. Score: 2

If you're a brave individual you might try insulating the bottom of your heated bed. You're going to want to get fiberglass or something that can actually withstand the temperatures you're trying to reach; anything past about 230 °C and you'll get organic things like cork and cotton starting to smoke. 200 °C is pretty absurd for a print bed temperature unless you're printing some pretty exotic materials.

Aside from insulating the bottom of the bed to aid in heat retention, you might also try getting an external FET chip for your heated bed, like is recommended for the RAMPS1.4 boards since their connectors don't handle high amperage loads well. External FET plus a 24 V PSU might give you the kind of temperature range you're apparently aiming for. Best of luck with that, and try not to set your entire setup on fire, 200 °C really is kind of absurd for an entire print plate.

**TL;DR:**

1. Insulate
2. External FET chip
3. 24V PSU

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: 24V PSU on a heatbed designed for 12V will result in a 4x power increase. This could easily cause localised overheating. I feel 15 or 16V would be safer to over-drive the bed.  
> **username_3**: I don't disagree that's a pretty massive power jump, a slightly lower voltage might be a better option, but if he's got an aluminum heated bed and/or a glass plate up top I think he'd be fine.  

---

### Answer by username_4 on 2019-07-05. Score: 0

Inspired by the answer from username_3, according to my back of the notepad radiative emission approximation, you need about a 3x increase in bed dissipation to get from $ \Delta T$ of 130 °C up to 170 °C. So that would correspond to an increase from 12 V *at the bed* to 18 V. As the current increases, the wire losses would also increase.

Sounds like a high power laptop charger could possibly fit the bill at 19V. Obviously this leaves a risk that the bed will be damaged, but I think it is better to aim for a steady load rather than pwm and a higher peak energy than necessary.


---

