<p>You ask about alternative and I will provide two, but for you rinformation both Taulman 618 and 230 can be easily bought in Europe therefore they must be still in production. Also, I'm not sure which kind of problem with PA12 you have, but if it's adhesion and warping, you can get good adhesion with PA12 if you print on garolite (fr4) boards. If they are thick enough they will avoid warping too, check here:</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
                <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/g0PK4oXbJT8?start=672"></iframe>
            </div></div></p>
<p>I don't know exactly which performances you expect for your part, but based on the specifications for <a href="https://cdn-3d.niceshops.com/upload/file/FIBERLOGY_NYLON_PA12_TDS.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fiberlogy PA12</a> related to impact strength, tensile strength and softening temperature and HDT, I would say that you have two options.</p>
<p>If you are looking for a <strong>nylon-like filament</strong> for its strength and <a href="https://polymaker.com/Download_File/TDS/PolyMide_CoPA_TDS_V5.1.pdf?_t=1563624444" rel="nofollow noreferrer">properties</a> but you want it to print easily, like a PETG, you are looking exactly for <a href="https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polymide-copa/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Polymaker CoPA</a>. It does not warp during print, it does not require a heated enclosure (in fact, they specify that the ambient temperature must be below 50 °C!).</p>
<p>See various reviews <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B078ZR3L57" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>
<p>Another option are <strong>Polycarbonate blends</strong>, where polycarbonate is mixed with other materials to make it easily printable, are a good choice. Polycarbonate is <a href="https://polymaker.com/Download_File/TDS/PolyMax_PC_TDS_V5.1.pdf?_t=1563624444" rel="nofollow noreferrer">strong</a> and routinely used for parts exposed outdoor.</p>
<p>Obviously you need a hotend reaching 300 °C for both alternatives.</p>
<p>I haven't tried Polymax PC personally, but the reviews and the experiences in various chats groups I follow are particularly good. It can be printed even on printers without enclosure, or at most placed inside a cardboard box to avoid air drafts.</p>
<p>Just remember however that polycarbonate is not resistant to some oils and some greases, that's why it's not used for parts in contact with bearings and so on. It becomes brittle, it cracks and breaks. It is likely not your case.</p>
<p>You can find two useful reviews about <a href="https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polymax-pc/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Polymaker Polymax PC</a> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1N7NVSKN690HN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewpnt?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B01KT3TR7E#R1N7NVSKN690HN" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> and <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RWIJNFY2TGHYL/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B0753DGQ2X" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>. Prusament PC is a similar blend with similar properties and printability.</p>
<p>Let me paste the second review if you doubt about its strength.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>This is bar none the most printable for the strength polycarbonate.
Absolutely no warping printing at 100mm/s at 110C bed temp and 295C
print temp laying down PVA gluestick on glass.The printing experience
doesn't even feel like an exotic engineering filament because of how
easy it is to work with. Layer adhesion is very good. I print
primarily at 100% infill with parts that are routinely 10&quot; wide by 4&quot;
tall with no curl up issues. There is some shrinking upon cool down in
the x,y axis, but it is to be expected with a thermal plastic
(~0.6-1%). Now on to the strength. This stuff is strong. Printing a
1.5&quot;x1.5&quot; square tube insert, I misjudged the thermal shrinking (assumed too much) and the insert pressure fitted into the tube. Long
story short, after trying to back out the part I eventually resorted
to whacking on the insert with a hammer. For 30 minutes, I religiously
swung with a might that only Thor would understand on this black
Mythril-like object stuck at the end of my tube insert. Sweating
profusely I gave it one mighty cloud-parting swing to the side of this
object of torment. It broke the damn hammer handle in half. My heart
crushed, the sun fading, and my neighbors watching from their windows
I retreated a defeated man to my kitchen drenched in the sweats of my
failure. Too sickened to muster the courage to inspect my handiwork,
but too curious to look away, I set the object on my kitchen counter
and began the awful process of inspecting it. Like a strange autopsy
by cell phone light, I stared blankly at the effects of my entire
human worth condensed into hammer swings. Not a single dent. Not one.
&quot;Impossible!&quot;- I told myself. But the evidence of my lack of human
value lay before me for all to bear. Sitting there, mocking me, a
single scratch. Set there presumably by the object itself to torment
me.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Two Youtube reviews follow.</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
                <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Q_i-57SEGlo?start=0"></iframe>
            </div></div></p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
                <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tXLroVcw1MQ?start=0"></iframe>
            </div></div></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-21T15:09:48.760Z
Nylon 6 gets brittle when dry and soft when wet, the video confirmed it. PC is brittle, not for taking a beating. PC blends is what Im experimenting with right now, but they are not environmentally resistant. G10 sounds interesting, but in order to print Nylon 12 I have turned off the heated bed entirely and covered the bed with superglue. It still warped and my bed is trashed. The guys at the professional printer store told me the only way to print large parts out of Nylon 12 is to get a printer with a heated enclosure that can go above 100C which cost 5000$ upwards.
AzulShiva
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-21T15:10:13.333Z
PCTG is drying in the oven right now, can't wait to test it tomorrow.
AzulShiva
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-21T15:14:28.333Z
You did not specify it in your answer but you do realise PolyMide COPA is a Nylon 6, Nylon 6,6 blend? Those are not tough lol, smack them with a hammer and you will see. ASA is superior.
AzulShiva
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-21T15:29:40.990Z
@AzulShiva CoPA is rated at about 10 kJ/m^2 impact strength and PA12 at 12 kJ/m^2. I would say they are not very different. I gave you the closest alternatives, but your question was quite generic concerning requirements and printer available so it's not possible to do more. Since you don't write what you are actually doing with it, you could even pick a hard TPU (98A or harder) and print 100% infill. Impact-wise it will outperform PA12. Of course it will be softer too.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-21T15:36:55.987Z
You can print at 100 °C environment also with an Ender 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79r5D9nCQfM
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-21T18:49:16.597Z
100C environment will destroy every part on the printer. Nylon 6 and 12 are very, very different. Impact resistance of Nylon 6 can change by magnitudes of 1000x depending on  it's moisture level, not so with PA12. Naturally it's extremely brittle. But thank you for your answer. I've talked to professionals and it appears there isn't anything between Nylon 12 and ASA quality wise except PC blends and PCTG (and unprintable stuff like PE).
AzulShiva
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-21T22:04:58.883Z
Are you sure that PC blends don't work outdoor? They usually have little amount of additivt therefore it's still mostly polycarbonate, which should work well outdoor.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-24T09:38:51.530Z
Have you tried PA12+CF?
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-03-16T10:03:01.670Z
PC blends and CF are more brittle, in my opinion ASA is just better (and cheaper). PC/ABS is not suitable for outdoors, PC/ASA should work, but I couldn't find any of it to buy. I was informed by my store of a new filament on the market, Lauramid PA12. It's even softer than ASA but ridiculously durable and practically indestructable if you get layer adhesion right. Also much easier to print than ordinary PA12. I only got a small 100g test sample but will do more tests. It's price is above 100 per kg, but it's great stuff. Also I tested PCTG and it's garbage.
AzulShiva
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-03-16T13:59:05.533Z
But what do you need to print exactly? it would make the question clearer.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-03-21T10:32:18.913Z
"extremely impact resistant, durable and can be left outside" Let's say: a crossbow or a knife handle.

Im experimenting with metal reinforcement. Works really well with ASA. If reinforced properly the difference to Nylon becomes almost negligible.
AzulShiva
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-20T16:19:16.010Z
2022-01-21T10:56:34.293Z
2022-01-21T10:56:34.293Z
FarO
<p>I just got done printing a few parts that needed to be outdoors and have extraordinary strength and toughness, and I cannot say enough good things about Polymaker Fiberon PA612-CF it's basically a composite of PA6 and PA12 with carbon fiber, so it basically is the best parts of PA6 and PA12 without the bad. It prints as easy as PLA, no warping! This stuff is <strong>tough</strong>, and amazingly affordable too for what it is.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-12-04T00:25:08.677Z
2024-12-04T17:45:35.477Z
2024-12-04T17:45:35.477Z
John Tetreault
<p>Looking for alternatives to Nylon PA12. I need a material that is extremely impact resistant, durable and can be left outside. PA12 performs like a dream but it warps intensely on thick parts, so I'm stuck with ASA for now which is rather weak.</p>
<p>I've tried different PA6 blends, Taulman 910, CF and GF filled Nylons, they are brittle and all inferior to ASA. I tried looking for Taulman 230 or 618 but they don't seem to be produced anymore and are out of stock everywhere except eBay.</p>

<filament-choice><nylon>
Alternative to PA12
AzulShiva
# Alternative to PA12

(Asked by: username_0 on 2022-01-12)

Looking for alternatives to Nylon PA12. I need a material that is extremely impact resistant, durable and can be left outside. PA12 performs like a dream but it warps intensely on thick parts, so I'm stuck with ASA for now which is rather weak.

I've tried different PA6 blends, Taulman 910, CF and GF filled Nylons, they are brittle and all inferior to ASA. I tried looking for Taulman 230 or 618 but they don't seem to be produced anymore and are out of stock everywhere except eBay.

**Tags:** filament-choice, nylon


---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2022-01-20. Score: 1

You ask about alternative and I will provide two, but for you rinformation both Taulman 618 and 230 can be easily bought in Europe therefore they must be still in production. Also, I'm not sure which kind of problem with PA12 you have, but if it's adhesion and warping, you can get good adhesion with PA12 if you print on garolite (fr4) boards. If they are thick enough they will avoid warping too, check here:

I don't know exactly which performances you expect for your part, but based on the specifications for [Fiberlogy PA12](https://cdn-3d.niceshops.com/upload/file/FIBERLOGY_NYLON_PA12_TDS.pdf) related to impact strength, tensile strength and softening temperature and HDT, I would say that you have two options.

If you are looking for a **nylon-like filament** for its strength and [properties](https://polymaker.com/Download_File/TDS/PolyMide_CoPA_TDS_V5.1.pdf?_t=1563624444) but you want it to print easily, like a PETG, you are looking exactly for [Polymaker CoPA](https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polymide-copa/). It does not warp during print, it does not require a heated enclosure (in fact, they specify that the ambient temperature must be below 50 °C!).

See various reviews [here](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B078ZR3L57).

Another option are **Polycarbonate blends**, where polycarbonate is mixed with other materials to make it easily printable, are a good choice. Polycarbonate is [strong](https://polymaker.com/Download_File/TDS/PolyMax_PC_TDS_V5.1.pdf?_t=1563624444) and routinely used for parts exposed outdoor.

Obviously you need a hotend reaching 300 °C for both alternatives.

I haven't tried Polymax PC personally, but the reviews and the experiences in various chats groups I follow are particularly good. It can be printed even on printers without enclosure, or at most placed inside a cardboard box to avoid air drafts.

Just remember however that polycarbonate is not resistant to some oils and some greases, that's why it's not used for parts in contact with bearings and so on. It becomes brittle, it cracks and breaks. It is likely not your case.

You can find two useful reviews about [Polymaker Polymax PC](https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polymax-pc/) [here](https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1N7NVSKN690HN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewpnt?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B01KT3TR7E#R1N7NVSKN690HN) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RWIJNFY2TGHYL/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B0753DGQ2X). Prusament PC is a similar blend with similar properties and printability.

Let me paste the second review if you doubt about its strength.

> This is bar none the most printable for the strength polycarbonate.
> Absolutely no warping printing at 100mm/s at 110C bed temp and 295C
> print temp laying down PVA gluestick on glass.The printing experience
> doesn't even feel like an exotic engineering filament because of how
> easy it is to work with. Layer adhesion is very good. I print
> primarily at 100% infill with parts that are routinely 10" wide by 4"
> tall with no curl up issues. There is some shrinking upon cool down in
> the x,y axis, but it is to be expected with a thermal plastic
> (~0.6-1%). Now on to the strength. This stuff is strong. Printing a
> 1.5"x1.5" square tube insert, I misjudged the thermal shrinking (assumed too much) and the insert pressure fitted into the tube. Long
> story short, after trying to back out the part I eventually resorted
> to whacking on the insert with a hammer. For 30 minutes, I religiously
> swung with a might that only Thor would understand on this black
> Mythril-like object stuck at the end of my tube insert. Sweating
> profusely I gave it one mighty cloud-parting swing to the side of this
> object of torment. It broke the damn hammer handle in half. My heart
> crushed, the sun fading, and my neighbors watching from their windows
> I retreated a defeated man to my kitchen drenched in the sweats of my
> failure. Too sickened to muster the courage to inspect my handiwork,
> but too curious to look away, I set the object on my kitchen counter
> and began the awful process of inspecting it. Like a strange autopsy
> by cell phone light, I stared blankly at the effects of my entire
> human worth condensed into hammer swings. Not a single dent. Not one.
> "Impossible!"- I told myself. But the evidence of my lack of human
> value lay before me for all to bear. Sitting there, mocking me, a
> single scratch. Set there presumably by the object itself to torment
> me.

Two Youtube reviews follow.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Nylon 6 gets brittle when dry and soft when wet, the video confirmed it. PC is brittle, not for taking a beating. PC blends is what Im experimenting with right now, but they are not environmentally resistant. G10 sounds interesting, but in order to print Nylon 12 I have turned off the heated bed entirely and covered the bed with superglue. It still warped and my bed is trashed. The guys at the professional printer store told me the only way to print large parts out of Nylon 12 is to get a printer with a heated enclosure that can go above 100C which cost 5000$ upwards.  
> **username_0**: PCTG is drying in the oven right now, can't wait to test it tomorrow.  
> **username_0**: You did not specify it in your answer but you do realise PolyMide COPA is a Nylon 6, Nylon 6,6 blend? Those are not tough lol, smack them with a hammer and you will see. ASA is superior.  
> **username_1**: @username_0 CoPA is rated at about 10 kJ/m^2 impact strength and PA12 at 12 kJ/m^2. I would say they are not very different. I gave you the closest alternatives, but your question was quite generic concerning requirements and printer available so it's not possible to do more. Since you don't write what you are actually doing with it, you could even pick a hard TPU (98A or harder) and print 100% infill. Impact-wise it will outperform PA12. Of course it will be softer too.  
> **username_1**: You can print at 100 °C environment also with an Ender 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79r5D9nCQfM  
> **username_0**: 100C environment will destroy every part on the printer. Nylon 6 and 12 are very, very different. Impact resistance of Nylon 6 can change by magnitudes of 1000x depending on  it's moisture level, not so with PA12. Naturally it's extremely brittle. But thank you for your answer. I've talked to professionals and it appears there isn't anything between Nylon 12 and ASA quality wise except PC blends and PCTG (and unprintable stuff like PE).  
> **username_1**: Are you sure that PC blends don't work outdoor? They usually have little amount of additivt therefore it's still mostly polycarbonate, which should work well outdoor.  
> **username_1**: Have you tried PA12+CF?  
> **username_0**: PC blends and CF are more brittle, in my opinion ASA is just better (and cheaper). PC/ABS is not suitable for outdoors, PC/ASA should work, but I couldn't find any of it to buy. I was informed by my store of a new filament on the market, Lauramid PA12. It's even softer than ASA but ridiculously durable and practically indestructable if you get layer adhesion right. Also much easier to print than ordinary PA12. I only got a small 100g test sample but will do more tests. It's price is above 100 per kg, but it's great stuff. Also I tested PCTG and it's garbage.  
> **username_1**: But what do you need to print exactly? it would make the question clearer.  
> **username_0**: "extremely impact resistant, durable and can be left outside" Let's say: a crossbow or a knife handle.  Im experimenting with metal reinforcement. Works really well with ASA. If reinforced properly the difference to Nylon becomes almost negligible.  

---

### Answer by username_2 on 2024-12-04. Score: 1

I just got done printing a few parts that needed to be outdoors and have extraordinary strength and toughness, and I cannot say enough good things about Polymaker Fiberon PA612-CF it's basically a composite of PA6 and PA12 with carbon fiber, so it basically is the best parts of PA6 and PA12 without the bad. It prints as easy as PLA, no warping! This stuff is **tough**, and amazingly affordable too for what it is.


---

