<p>An alternative to finding steppers that can withstand the heat, you can consider not getting the heat near the steppers:</p>

<ul>
<li><em>Moving the steppers outside the heated build volume</em><br>
With 2 extra pulleys per stepper you can get the steppers outside the build volume.</li>
</ul>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/he7hz.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="CoreXY kinematics based on source image of Greg Hoge"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/he7hz.png" alt="CoreXY kinematics, steppers brought outside chamber" title="CoreXY kinematics based on source image of Greg Hoge"></a></p>

<ul>
<li><em>Shield the motors from the heat by placing them in a cooler tunnel or behind a face plate/cover</em><br>
You can also shield the steppers from the heat, e.g. the Ultimaker 3(E) the steppers are behind a cover.</li>
</ul>

<p>Be aware that creating a 90&nbsp;&deg;C heat chamber, all the printed parts for the CoreXY need to be printed in a filament type that can withstand prolonged exposure to the temperature you want the chamber to be (or be made in metal). For the mentioned temperature this implies the use of some more exotic filament types, see e.g. <a href="/a/6120/">this answer</a>.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-30T14:55:46.383Z
2019-08-01T12:25:15.620Z
2019-08-01T12:25:15.620Z
0scar
<p>It is possible to buy cheap high temperature steppers. E.g., you can buy <a href="https://hightemp3d.com/collections/high-temperature-3d-printer-parts" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LDO 180 °C winding steppers</a>.</p>
<p>They can be used up to 135 °C without additional cooling and with reduced lifetime probably even higher.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-09-10T13:03:30.503Z
Please state your affiliation with the website, else it might be considered advertisement.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-09-10T12:38:23.540Z
2020-09-10T13:02:29.543Z
2020-09-10T13:02:29.543Z
Peter Sorensen
<p>&quot;Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor&quot;  Sure you can, the interior doesn't get all that warm unless you really seal it up tight, and that's not really needed.  I have an enclosure around my 200x200x200 mm MIGBOT (early Prusa clone with direct drive extruder), printing PLA with 60 °C bed, the interior only gets a few degrees warmer.  The motors can take a lot more heat than you think they can.</p>
<p>I have a couple pictures taken from this question,  <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10008/printer-cover-for-noise-abatement-cleanliness-temperature-control">Printer cover for noise abatement, cleanliness, temperature control</a>:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/RF2fC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Enclosure with front open"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/RF2fC.jpg" alt="Enclosure with front open" title="Enclosure with front open" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Kj1QJ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Enclosure with front closed"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Kj1QJ.jpg" alt="Enclosure with front closed" title="Enclosure with front closed" /></a></p>
<p>The front &amp; back panels are 18x24 inch polycarbonate from Home Depot, I 3D printed the corner brackets, and added a couple of pieces of wood for some stiffness. The entire front hinges up. The top is 24x24 inch, and the back 6&quot; hinges up to access the SD card that is on the display/control panel.</p>
<hr />
<p>I printed 9 2&quot; x 2&quot; pieces for a chess board, took about 8.5 hours I think.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-29T20:19:04.647Z
The heating bed won't over heat the chamber, normally the prints are 50-60 °C for PLA and 80-90 °C for ABS; but if you want to climate the chamber is a good idea but cool the motors with some fans or circulating water. I think this is cheaper that special motors. For the extruder I think will be a hard task since is the moving part, so the extruder need to be a remote extrusion driver. Or you need to change your chamber design.
Fernando Baltazar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-29T16:09:45.673Z
2021-09-25T17:08:45.267Z
2021-09-25T17:08:45.267Z
CrossRoads
<p>Two things matter for the stepper motor:  the insulation temperature and the Curie point of the magnet. </p>

<p>You probably aren't near the Curie point.</p>

<p>The critical temperature is the sum of the ambient plus the temperature rise from the drive power.  In your case,  I would try mounting the motor to a water cooled metal cold plate.   Bring the lower temperature to the motor.   Mount the full face of the motor to the plate with thermal compound. </p>

<p>Use a tiny pump to move water from a reservoir through the cold plate.   For an example,  check out the E3D Kracken.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-09-02T06:40:15.200Z
Magnets can be damaged by temperatures much lower than their curie temperatures (for neodymium, as low as 80 °C).
Tom van der Zanden
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-30T14:06:07.990Z
2019-07-30T14:06:07.990Z
cmm
<p>I'm just going to come straight out and say it. If you can't design and build a Core XY system then you should not even attempt a heated build chamber.</p>
<p>The Stratasys 3D printers that have heated chambers use a H-Bot design (the predecessor of CoreXY), so as to keep everything out of the chamber. You can't use a regular hot end. You can't have fans on that hot end to keep it cool. You can't have the motors inside the chamber. You can barely have the filament in the chamber because it could get soft inside the tube.</p>
<p>Some of the answers state that motors can operate at high temps already. That is only true in ambient conditions. The heat that the coils of the motor generate is trying to escape to the outside of the motor. It it much hotter inside! Therefore if you raise the external environment's temp to 90 °C then the heat won't escape as quickly; and if it raises beyond the melt/burn temp then the motor will fail. See:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnet_wire" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Wikipedia - Magnet_wire</a></li>
<li><a href="https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/211986/burning-temperature-of-copper-winding-of-motor">Burning Temperature of Copper Winding of Motor</a></li>
</ul>
<p>After that fails the PVC coating on the lead wires will fail, usually resorting in a short, which could destroy the stepper drivers.</p>
<p>Additionally, everything made of metal will expand. The ball bearings will expand, the rails will expand and the hot end will expand. The linear system could become tighter or looser; it could even warp depending on the type of steel. If it becomes looser, then there goes your ability to 3D print! You might end up needing to design and fabricate your parts so that they fit and work properly only when they are at the working temp.</p>
<p>Here is what you need to build:</p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8D26lcka8U" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AON-M2 : High Temperature Industrial 3D Printer</a></p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
                <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/d8D26lcka8U?start=0"></iframe>
            </div></div></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-31T15:48:31.627Z
HIWIN linear guideways are capable of operating up 100 Degree Celsius with out reduction in life. There are wires whose temperature rating is 110 Degee or more, even the normal stepper motor cable tubing is rated 110 Degree Celsius. Stratasys has patent on it's build chamber design that's why no one else is using heat barrier as they are doing. Google Intamsys Funmat HT, perfect example hotend, fan, and motor inside the chamber. Depending on the filament I can turn the chamber heater ON or OFF or reduce temp
Athul
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-31T19:39:49.597Z
@Athul, The motors generate heat also. If you are operating hot equipment in a hot environment then you could cross the max rating temp. Just like if you operated a stepper motor in a high vacuum it will melt!
user77232
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-30T18:45:37.883Z
2021-09-26T06:21:52.117Z
2021-09-26T06:21:52.117Z
user77232
<p>Then you need to add water cooling system for them.
Something like this:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/XwxyD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling  motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/XwxyD.jpg" alt="trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling  motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC" title="trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling  motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC"></a></p>

<p>Also, water cooled hotend would be a go ahead I guess.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-03-11T22:49:08.900Z
Do you realize that water cooled hotends are very heavy in comparison and introduce a lot of torque on the print head by the flow of water?
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-03-12T09:20:46.433Z
@Trish OP asked about stepper motors and nothing with hotend. Steppers must be cooled, otherwise, they are more likely to miss steps. Have a nice day.
Martynas
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-09-26T06:09:14.150Z
@Trish is correct... there *is* (apparently) a stepper motor that is mobile. That info was buried in [this (now deleted) comment](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10712/what-stepper-motor-to-use-in-heated-chamber#comment18173_10718), hence the inertia of the water will affect performance/mvement. However, water cooling *could* be used on the static stepper motors. I have put the info from the deleted comment into the question, along with a photo. Have a nice day.
Greenonline
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-09-26T06:19:19.277Z
@Martynas The printer shown has a carried extruder on the Y axis, meaning that you carry the motor as well as the hotend, and then add the heatsink... all extra weight induces torque, *especially* if the weight is only on one end of the printer frame (as shown). As a result, there will be considerable limitations on speed only by the motor alone, which are increased by the added heatsink and might be *also* influenced by the flow of water.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-03-20T23:37:46.350Z
@Trish, I do understand what you say. I just said that for like Core XY all steppers are stationary. And at the time of my answer, there was not enough info to say stepper is on moving Y gantry...
Martynas
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-03-11T13:21:36.783Z
2020-03-11T18:19:58.920Z
2020-03-11T18:19:58.920Z
Martynas
<p>You don't need to worry about the stepper for heating chamber since the direct drive uses a fan for cooling the motor area.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/MfR7h.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/MfR7h.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>When I started to make my own printer I had the same question but in order to make me feel good and peace. I prefer to use a bowder extruder.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/AChjC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/AChjC.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>This bowden extruder comes in different sizes: Normal as picture shows above, small, and mini like the other that shows pre assembled below.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/plV2c.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/plV2c.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>However the question should be different like, <strong>Can I print inside an oven?</strong> for this will address the question to other possibilities:</p>

<p>1.- Cover or shield the motor with some foil to avoid the heating <br>
2.- Add a water cooling like CPU, so the water flows from outside to the motor to keep a low temperature. <br>
3.- Add cooling fans, this ones should take te air from outside and tha air can be directed with a corrugated tube for the Extruder motor and the radiator. For the X, Y and Z motors can be a rigid tube. </p>

<p>This cooling fans won't affect the internal chamber temperature due the cooling process is punctual. </p>

<p>4.- Many electronics components are designed to work at 105°, so won't be affected in short terms, however the life of circutry will decrease a lot, since designs cover until 5 years at normal conditions so your printer can last up to 1.5 years.</p>

<p>Recommendations:</p>

<p>I don't see a real reason to keep the printer isolated to high temperatures while the porpuse of this is to keep temperature variations from clime like winter and summer. In my case the print room has a normal temperature of 38°C on summers and -2°C on winter, so how can I print with the same quality on winter if the printer is so cold? <em>ah, I need a chamber to keep that temperature of summer</em>. then I made the chamber to acheive 38°C not the whole temperature of the bed print. </p>

<p>If I need to print ABS so I set the bed temperature to 80°C so the parts won´t get warped, due the temperature for adhesive for ABS is the correct; also this temperature won´t over heat the chamber at least near to 60°C, but can it be reduced extracting the heat with other fan. For this case is just only one or two fans.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/KPzRf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/KPzRf.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>Note:
The Idea to have the whole printer inside an oven will help to keep that 80°-95°C under control is good, but some times is hard to implement it due materials and its purposes are different and serviseable life will be too low.</p>

<p>So your chamber should include the printing area only or follow the recommendation as the picture above. Those photo was taken from the site <a href="https://www.engineering.com/3DPrinting/3DPrintingArticles/ArticleID/5353/A-New-Industrial-RepRap-Emerges.aspx" rel="nofollow noreferrer">industrial RepRap</a> and also exposes som e features as i'm suggesting.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-29T19:55:03.100Z
you need only a fan like the first image, no matter if your extruder are mounted on verticar or horizontal in the carrier. if you need extra cooling you can add a fan on th back of the stepper; I install this fans on Z axis when I have to print more than 36hrs because the motors can over heat. My local temperature is around 38°C and some times are near to 42°C in the print room.
Fernando Baltazar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-30T05:43:14.247Z
I can add a fan to cool stepper motor and I have done that. In normal case it would work, but in a closed chamber the air is as hot as  90 degree. Even if I put a fan inside, it will blow this hot air in to the motor. I need atleast air as cool as atmospheric air
Athul
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-30T18:26:11.930Z
You understand that all of that equipment is going inside the heated chamber right?
user77232
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-31T04:39:47.583Z
@Athul Right, you can take fresh air from outside with a corrugated tube like medical equipment or vacuum machine (something lighter). This won't affect you climate chamber due punctual cooling.
Fernando Baltazar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-29T17:02:03.510Z
2019-08-01T22:47:21.850Z
2019-08-01T22:47:21.850Z
Fernando Baltazar
<p>I want to build a 3D printer with a heating chamber of around 90 °C with build area 200x200x200 mm. I have never build a CoreXY system, so my design is currently an XY system with moving X motor (mounted on Y). Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor (there's a way, but I have to provide forced air cooling like NASA did, or water cooling). Extruder is Bowden type. I have already sourced almost all components, but I'm stuck at choosing the motor.</p>
<p>I could find high temperature stepper motor in India (that's where I'm from), but it cost too much. I <a href="https://visionminer.com/products/high-temp-motorx-extruder?_pos=1&amp;_sid=7b5e5e603&amp;_ss=r" rel="nofollow noreferrer">found one at the Visionminer website</a>, they're the dealers for Intamsys printers, which has a chamber of 90 °C and they are providing replacement stepper motors as well.</p>
<p>Comparing the cost, the motor I found in India costs three times as above. Even with shipping I will save a lot. But one issue is they're not providing any details about torque and current rating. There's one image in the website and it says,</p>
<pre><code>MOONS STEPPING MOTOR
TYPE 17HDB001-11N
60904162 18/04/12
</code></pre>
<p>I thought it might be a MOONS motor, so I contacted them, no reply so far. I tried to find the motor by part number, but failed. I tried mailing Visionminer as well.</p>
<p>Anyone have any idea which motor is this or know any high temperature motors?</p>
<p>Also they use Gates belts, which is rated for 85 °C. How reliable will it be in 90 °C chamber?</p>
<p>I will heat the chamber using a external heater with fan.</p>
<p>My extruder is Bowden, same as you've shown E3D V6, with updated high temp parts. Plated Cu heater block + Nozzle, High temp heating coil and Thermocouple.</p>
<p>But In my design X axis motor is moving one. I mean it's mounted on Y Similar to this <a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=1g-pOCmL_2Vm1df78jYKZNPT7aMvoe8Ke" rel="nofollow noreferrer">image</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/BJ3qe.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="X axis stepper mounted on Y axis"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/BJ3qe.jpg" alt="X axis stepper mounted on Y axis" title="X axis stepper mounted on Y axis" /></a></p>
<p>So it will be inside the chamber and I have to cool it somehow or looks for high temp motor</p>
<p>What I'm trying to print is PEEK, and it requires around 80-90 Degree chamber, and most stepper motors are rated for an ambient temperature of 50 Degrees. And I'm really planning to seal the chamber using SS sheet. It's going to be something like <a href="https://www.intamsys.com/funmat-ht-3d-printer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intamsys funmat HT</a>. What is the biggest print, I mean duration that you run your printer at 60 Degrees?</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-29T12:50:30.727Z
Could you not place the motor outside the heated chamber, since it is a bowden setup?
Mick
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-29T16:39:38.940Z
you can use any other motor Nema17, forget moons brand.
Fernando Baltazar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-29T19:08:34.667Z
@Mick, I can place the extruder motor outside. But what about X & Y?
I will have to then consider CoreXY setup, and read it's is not very forgiving it terms of belt tension . Even with coreXY, I don't understand how to avoid motor getting affected by heater temperature
Athul
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-29T19:08:38.493Z
@FernandoBaltazar But normal motors only work at 50-60 degrees right? I want mine to work at 90 Degree max
Athul
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-29T20:02:07.457Z
The maximum temperature is 80°C but adding a cooler you can have it working below this value. Normally this can be achieved with a fan, just like cooling a CPU or an engine.
Fernando Baltazar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-09-11T07:54:38.533Z
Watercooling is really easy, I would consider it. Get a GPU cooling block 40x40 mm and stick it to the SIDE of the stepper (not the rear) with double-sided heat conductive silicon tape (0.5 mm thickness), and put a zip tie for extra adhesion and tighten it well. Get an acquarium pump. Done. Also, don't forget that PVC wiring is rated up to 85 °C, so you cannot get above that unless you replace the wiring.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-09-26T06:13:43.943Z
In an attempt to try to tidy this question up, I have added some important information from your various comments that was missing in your question (Bowden, PEEK, X-axis mounted stepper). This may be why there are a number of answers that aren't spot on, as this information was missing originally. Please try to remember to keep all of the information in one post (i.e. the question in this case), so that people don't have to trawl through all of the comments in order to get a full picture of the issue. Thanks.
Greenonline
<printer-building><chamber>
What stepper motor to use in heated chamber
Athul
# What stepper motor to use in heated chamber

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-07-29)

I want to build a 3D printer with a heating chamber of around 90 °C with build area 200x200x200 mm. I have never build a CoreXY system, so my design is currently an XY system with moving X motor (mounted on Y). Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor (there's a way, but I have to provide forced air cooling like NASA did, or water cooling). Extruder is Bowden type. I have already sourced almost all components, but I'm stuck at choosing the motor.

I could find high temperature stepper motor in India (that's where I'm from), but it cost too much. I [found one at the Visionminer website](https://visionminer.com/products/high-temp-motorx-extruder?_pos=1&_sid=7b5e5e603&_ss=r), they're the dealers for Intamsys printers, which has a chamber of 90 °C and they are providing replacement stepper motors as well.

Comparing the cost, the motor I found in India costs three times as above. Even with shipping I will save a lot. But one issue is they're not providing any details about torque and current rating. There's one image in the website and it says,

```
MOONS STEPPING MOTOR
TYPE 17HDB001-11N
60904162 18/04/12

```

I thought it might be a MOONS motor, so I contacted them, no reply so far. I tried to find the motor by part number, but failed. I tried mailing Visionminer as well.

Anyone have any idea which motor is this or know any high temperature motors?

Also they use Gates belts, which is rated for 85 °C. How reliable will it be in 90 °C chamber?

I will heat the chamber using a external heater with fan.

My extruder is Bowden, same as you've shown E3D V6, with updated high temp parts. Plated Cu heater block + Nozzle, High temp heating coil and Thermocouple.

But In my design X axis motor is moving one. I mean it's mounted on Y Similar to this [image](https://drive.google.com/open?id=1g-pOCmL_2Vm1df78jYKZNPT7aMvoe8Ke)

[![X axis stepper mounted on Y axis](https://i.sstatic.net/BJ3qe.jpg "X axis stepper mounted on Y axis")](https://i.sstatic.net/BJ3qe.jpg "X axis stepper mounted on Y axis")

So it will be inside the chamber and I have to cool it somehow or looks for high temp motor

What I'm trying to print is PEEK, and it requires around 80-90 Degree chamber, and most stepper motors are rated for an ambient temperature of 50 Degrees. And I'm really planning to seal the chamber using SS sheet. It's going to be something like [Intamsys funmat HT](https://www.intamsys.com/funmat-ht-3d-printer/). What is the biggest print, I mean duration that you run your printer at 60 Degrees?

**Tags:** printer-building, chamber

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Could you not place the motor outside the heated chamber, since it is a bowden setup?  
> **username_2**: you can use any other motor Nema17, forget moons brand.  
> **username_0**: @username_1, I can place the extruder motor outside. But what about X & Y? I will have to then consider CoreXY setup, and read it's is not very forgiving it terms of belt tension . Even with coreXY, I don't understand how to avoid motor getting affected by heater temperature  
> **username_0**: @username_2 But normal motors only work at 50-60 degrees right? I want mine to work at 90 Degree max  
> **username_2**: The maximum temperature is 80°C but adding a cooler you can have it working below this value. Normally this can be achieved with a fan, just like cooling a CPU or an engine.  
> **username_3**: Watercooling is really easy, I would consider it. Get a GPU cooling block 40x40 mm and stick it to the SIDE of the stepper (not the rear) with double-sided heat conductive silicon tape (0.5 mm thickness), and put a zip tie for extra adhesion and tighten it well. Get an acquarium pump. Done. Also, don't forget that PVC wiring is rated up to 85 °C, so you cannot get above that unless you replace the wiring.  
> **username_4**: In an attempt to try to tidy this question up, I have added some important information from your various comments that was missing in your question (Bowden, PEEK, X-axis mounted stepper). This may be why there are a number of answers that aren't spot on, as this information was missing originally. Please try to remember to keep all of the information in one post (i.e. the question in this case), so that people don't have to trawl through all of the comments in order to get a full picture of the issue. Thanks.  

---

## 7 answers

### Answer by username_5 on 2019-07-30. Score: 3

An alternative to finding steppers that can withstand the heat, you can consider not getting the heat near the steppers:

* *Moving the steppers outside the heated build volume*  
  With 2 extra pulleys per stepper you can get the steppers outside the build volume.

[![CoreXY kinematics, steppers brought outside chamber](https://i.sstatic.net/he7hz.png "CoreXY kinematics based on source image of Greg Hoge")](https://i.sstatic.net/he7hz.png "CoreXY kinematics based on source image of Greg Hoge")

* *Shield the motors from the heat by placing them in a cooler tunnel or behind a face plate/cover*  
  You can also shield the steppers from the heat, e.g. the Ultimaker 3(E) the steppers are behind a cover.

Be aware that creating a 90 °C heat chamber, all the printed parts for the CoreXY need to be printed in a filament type that can withstand prolonged exposure to the temperature you want the chamber to be (or be made in metal). For the mentioned temperature this implies the use of some more exotic filament types, see e.g. [this answer](/a/6120/).


---

### Answer by username_6 on 2020-09-10. Score: 1

It is possible to buy cheap high temperature steppers. E.g., you can buy [LDO 180 °C winding steppers](https://hightemp3d.com/collections/high-temperature-3d-printer-parts).

They can be used up to 135 °C without additional cooling and with reduced lifetime probably even higher.

> **Comments:**
> **username_5**: Please state your affiliation with the website, else it might be considered advertisement.  

---

### Answer by username_7 on 2019-07-29. Score: 1

"Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor" Sure you can, the interior doesn't get all that warm unless you really seal it up tight, and that's not really needed. I have an enclosure around my 200x200x200 mm MIGBOT (early Prusa clone with direct drive extruder), printing PLA with 60 °C bed, the interior only gets a few degrees warmer. The motors can take a lot more heat than you think they can.

I have a couple pictures taken from this question, [Printer cover for noise abatement, cleanliness, temperature control](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10008/printer-cover-for-noise-abatement-cleanliness-temperature-control):

[![Enclosure with front open](https://i.sstatic.net/RF2fC.jpg "Enclosure with front open")](https://i.sstatic.net/RF2fC.jpg "Enclosure with front open")

[![Enclosure with front closed](https://i.sstatic.net/Kj1QJ.jpg "Enclosure with front closed")](https://i.sstatic.net/Kj1QJ.jpg "Enclosure with front closed")

The front & back panels are 18x24 inch polycarbonate from Home Depot, I 3D printed the corner brackets, and added a couple of pieces of wood for some stiffness. The entire front hinges up. The top is 24x24 inch, and the back 6" hinges up to access the SD card that is on the display/control panel.

---

I printed 9 2" x 2" pieces for a chess board, took about 8.5 hours I think.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: The heating bed won't over heat the chamber, normally the prints are 50-60 °C for PLA and 80-90 °C for ABS; but if you want to climate the chamber is a good idea but cool the motors with some fans or circulating water. I think this is cheaper that special motors. For the extruder I think will be a hard task since is the moving part, so the extruder need to be a remote extrusion driver. Or you need to change your chamber design.  

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### Answer by username_8 on 2019-07-30. Score: 0

Two things matter for the stepper motor: the insulation temperature and the Curie point of the magnet.

You probably aren't near the Curie point.

The critical temperature is the sum of the ambient plus the temperature rise from the drive power. In your case, I would try mounting the motor to a water cooled metal cold plate. Bring the lower temperature to the motor. Mount the full face of the motor to the plate with thermal compound.

Use a tiny pump to move water from a reservoir through the cold plate. For an example, check out the E3D Kracken.

> **Comments:**
> **username_9**: Magnets can be damaged by temperatures much lower than their curie temperatures (for neodymium, as low as 80 °C).  

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### Answer by username_10 on 2019-07-30. Score: -1

I'm just going to come straight out and say it. If you can't design and build a Core XY system then you should not even attempt a heated build chamber.

The Stratasys 3D printers that have heated chambers use a H-Bot design (the predecessor of CoreXY), so as to keep everything out of the chamber. You can't use a regular hot end. You can't have fans on that hot end to keep it cool. You can't have the motors inside the chamber. You can barely have the filament in the chamber because it could get soft inside the tube.

Some of the answers state that motors can operate at high temps already. That is only true in ambient conditions. The heat that the coils of the motor generate is trying to escape to the outside of the motor. It it much hotter inside! Therefore if you raise the external environment's temp to 90 °C then the heat won't escape as quickly; and if it raises beyond the melt/burn temp then the motor will fail. See:

* [Wikipedia - Magnet\_wire](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnet_wire)
* [Burning Temperature of Copper Winding of Motor](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/211986/burning-temperature-of-copper-winding-of-motor)

After that fails the PVC coating on the lead wires will fail, usually resorting in a short, which could destroy the stepper drivers.

Additionally, everything made of metal will expand. The ball bearings will expand, the rails will expand and the hot end will expand. The linear system could become tighter or looser; it could even warp depending on the type of steel. If it becomes looser, then there goes your ability to 3D print! You might end up needing to design and fabricate your parts so that they fit and work properly only when they are at the working temp.

Here is what you need to build:

[AON-M2 : High Temperature Industrial 3D Printer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8D26lcka8U)

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: HIWIN linear guideways are capable of operating up 100 Degree Celsius with out reduction in life. There are wires whose temperature rating is 110 Degee or more, even the normal stepper motor cable tubing is rated 110 Degree Celsius. Stratasys has patent on it's build chamber design that's why no one else is using heat barrier as they are doing. Google Intamsys Funmat HT, perfect example hotend, fan, and motor inside the chamber. Depending on the filament I can turn the chamber heater ON or OFF or reduce temp  
> **username_10**: @username_0, The motors generate heat also. If you are operating hot equipment in a hot environment then you could cross the max rating temp. Just like if you operated a stepper motor in a high vacuum it will melt!  

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### Answer by username_11 on 2020-03-11. Score: -2

Then you need to add water cooling system for them.
Something like this:

[![trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling  motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC](https://i.sstatic.net/XwxyD.jpg "trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling  motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC")](https://i.sstatic.net/XwxyD.jpg "trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling  motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC")

Also, water cooled hotend would be a go ahead I guess.

> **Comments:**
> **username_12**: Do you realize that water cooled hotends are very heavy in comparison and introduce a lot of torque on the print head by the flow of water?  
> **username_11**: @username_12 OP asked about stepper motors and nothing with hotend. Steppers must be cooled, otherwise, they are more likely to miss steps. Have a nice day.  
> **username_4**: @username_12 is correct... there *is* (apparently) a stepper motor that is mobile. That info was buried in [this (now deleted) comment](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10712/what-stepper-motor-to-use-in-heated-chamber#comment18173_10718), hence the inertia of the water will affect performance/mvement. However, water cooling *could* be used on the static stepper motors. I have put the info from the deleted comment into the question, along with a photo. Have a nice day.  
> **username_12**: @username_11 The printer shown has a carried extruder on the Y axis, meaning that you carry the motor as well as the hotend, and then add the heatsink... all extra weight induces torque, *especially* if the weight is only on one end of the printer frame (as shown). As a result, there will be considerable limitations on speed only by the motor alone, which are increased by the added heatsink and might be *also* influenced by the flow of water.  
> **username_11**: @username_12, I do understand what you say. I just said that for like Core XY all steppers are stationary. And at the time of my answer, there was not enough info to say stepper is on moving Y gantry...  

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### Answer by username_2 on 2019-07-29. Score: -2

You don't need to worry about the stepper for heating chamber since the direct drive uses a fan for cooling the motor area.

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/MfR7h.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/MfR7h.jpg)

When I started to make my own printer I had the same question but in order to make me feel good and peace. I prefer to use a bowder extruder.

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/AChjC.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/AChjC.jpg)

This bowden extruder comes in different sizes: Normal as picture shows above, small, and mini like the other that shows pre assembled below.

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/plV2c.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/plV2c.jpg)

However the question should be different like, **Can I print inside an oven?** for this will address the question to other possibilities:

1.- Cover or shield the motor with some foil to avoid the heating   
2.- Add a water cooling like CPU, so the water flows from outside to the motor to keep a low temperature.   
3.- Add cooling fans, this ones should take te air from outside and tha air can be directed with a corrugated tube for the Extruder motor and the radiator. For the X, Y and Z motors can be a rigid tube.

This cooling fans won't affect the internal chamber temperature due the cooling process is punctual.

4.- Many electronics components are designed to work at 105°, so won't be affected in short terms, however the life of circutry will decrease a lot, since designs cover until 5 years at normal conditions so your printer can last up to 1.5 years.

Recommendations:

I don't see a real reason to keep the printer isolated to high temperatures while the porpuse of this is to keep temperature variations from clime like winter and summer. In my case the print room has a normal temperature of 38°C on summers and -2°C on winter, so how can I print with the same quality on winter if the printer is so cold? *ah, I need a chamber to keep that temperature of summer*. then I made the chamber to acheive 38°C not the whole temperature of the bed print.

If I need to print ABS so I set the bed temperature to 80°C so the parts won´t get warped, due the temperature for adhesive for ABS is the correct; also this temperature won´t over heat the chamber at least near to 60°C, but can it be reduced extracting the heat with other fan. For this case is just only one or two fans.

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/KPzRf.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/KPzRf.jpg)

Note:
The Idea to have the whole printer inside an oven will help to keep that 80°-95°C under control is good, but some times is hard to implement it due materials and its purposes are different and serviseable life will be too low.

So your chamber should include the printing area only or follow the recommendation as the picture above. Those photo was taken from the site [industrial RepRap](https://www.engineering.com/3DPrinting/3DPrintingArticles/ArticleID/5353/A-New-Industrial-RepRap-Emerges.aspx) and also exposes som e features as i'm suggesting.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: you need only a fan like the first image, no matter if your extruder are mounted on verticar or horizontal in the carrier. if you need extra cooling you can add a fan on th back of the stepper; I install this fans on Z axis when I have to print more than 36hrs because the motors can over heat. My local temperature is around 38°C and some times are near to 42°C in the print room.  
> **username_0**: I can add a fan to cool stepper motor and I have done that. In normal case it would work, but in a closed chamber the air is as hot as  90 degree. Even if I put a fan inside, it will blow this hot air in to the motor. I need atleast air as cool as atmospheric air  
> **username_10**: You understand that all of that equipment is going inside the heated chamber right?  
> **username_2**: @username_0 Right, you can take fresh air from outside with a corrugated tube like medical equipment or vacuum machine (something lighter). This won't affect you climate chamber due punctual cooling.  

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