<p>Lowering speed on outer perimeter has always been mostly wrong, but possibly useful. Usually, it's a poor approximation for what you really want to do, which is lowering <em>acceleration</em> on the outer perimeter, to avoid surface quality and dimensional accuracy errors due to ringing and backlash. However, on bowden printers without compensation for pressure (&quot;linear advance&quot; in Marlin, aka &quot;pressure advance&quot; in some other firmware), slow acceleration and high speeds give really bad error in extrusion consistency, so you're better off just lowering the max speed too whenever you lower acceleration.</p>
<p>It's also possible that you may want to print at extremely high speeds for inner walls and infill - speeds so high that you get a lot of extrusion consistency problems. If so, it would make sense to retain a sensible max speed on the outer wall. This won't avoid the part strength problems from printing too fast, but if your models are just decorative, it might be worth it.</p>
<p>Generally, though, I'd recommend solving these problems right (using linear advance if your printer needs it, lowering outer perimeter acceleration to get rid of artifacts, printing at a speed your hotend can handle, etc.) and deem &quot;slower outer perimeter&quot; an idea whose time has passed.</p>
<p>Also, note that if you're using a bowden printer <em>without</em> linear advance, sticking to the <em>same speed</em> for all extrusion will largely paper over the problem. This is probably the source of your observation that it &quot;improves print quality&quot; for you.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T14:21:48.727Z
2021-03-08T14:21:48.727Z
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
<p>Thanks to Input Shaper, you can print faster, sometimes to the point of reaching your speed limit on the max nozzle flow speed. At that point, if all speeds are hitting that threshold without any changes in quality, you could print every part at the same maximum speed.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-09T01:53:53.167Z
Hi and welcome. What is Input Shaper? Is this an additional product (software/hardware?)? Could  you [edit] your answer, and explain a bit more? As it stands, your answer, looks a little bit like spam (although I'm sure that you posted with good intentions). If it is a third-party product, are you affiliated to the company at all? If you are you must disclose this fact. Or is it something that you yourself use and have found to be useful? Thanks
Greenonline
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-09T09:07:50.517Z
Victor, check the question asked: "Is there any reason left to print outer perimeters at a lower speed? ". Your answer is not answering it... this website works strictly as question/answer approach.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T14:10:22.950Z
2021-03-08T14:10:22.950Z
Victor Lazaro
<p>In the past we had printers with poor mechanics and with primitive software algorithms, therefore we used to print inner perimeters faster than the outermost one. See for example (generic, found online):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/DJeIV.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/DJeIV.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>However now we have pressure/linear advance which reduces extra oozing/extrusion in corners or areas with variable speed, and in Klipper we also have <a href="https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">resonance compensation</a> which takes care of imperfect mechanics allowing printers to be pushed to higher acceleration without visible artifacts (in my case from 2000 to 6000 mm/s^2), see (generic) photo:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/SZhB5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/SZhB5.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>However printing slower has a clear disadvantage: E steps calibration is speed dependent with more filament being pushed out at lower speed, see</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
                <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0xRtypDjNvI?start=0"></iframe>
            </div></div></p>
<p>Is there any reason left to print outer perimeters at a lower speed? Using one speed only except for specific areas (small perimeters, bridges, support) seems to make more sense to me to improve quality and reduce printing times.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-25T21:36:34.430Z
Thank you for this question and all provided insight. I started experimenting with higher speeds after trying to answer question: [Ideas to tune for 300 % speed](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15417/ideas-to-tune-for-300-speed). I observed big drops on start after long track's pressure-then-retraction, and had almost the same conclusion as a great explanation in the video. I manipulated flow rate to compensate, and slowed on last layers for nice finish. Actually the answer I proposed there reflects your way of thinking. So I upvote your question, curions to read from others.
octopus8
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-26T09:57:48.607Z
@octopus8 the implications of that video are quite far reaching... it is known for a while, but it has been forgotten. http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/ and https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/5588/non-linear-extrusion/6
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-26T10:30:40.123Z
@octopus8 I replied to that question as well
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T14:23:43.670Z
The claim that E steps calibration is speed dependent is false unless your extruder is skipping, in which case you just *can't print at that speed* without increasing temperature or upgrading your extruder and/or hotend.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T14:27:03.680Z
@octopus8: Sounds like you don't have linear advance dialed in right.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T14:58:50.823Z
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE so according to that video above@4:32, the correct printing speed to avoid "skipping" of the extruder is 3 mm^3/s? and according to https://youtu.be/xAiUZ7HDhdM?t=553 2-3 mm^3/s? and in https://youtu.be/RCPDzT3mS4U?t=390 ? The fact that effective extrusion is dependent on extrusion speed on ANY extruder/hotend/nozzle combination is verified by multiple sources. Have you tested your setup? :)
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T16:19:49.003Z
@FarO: It's mechanically obvious that, without skipping or increase in compression of the filament along a radial axis, the ratio between filament length moved and motor angle turned cannot decrease. The most likely explanation if it seems to is that there actually is skipping. Indeed I don't think you can go much over 3 mm³/s with a cheap hotend, at least at typical temperatures.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T16:26:48.683Z
I think you could design an experimen to confirm this by counting the expected vs actual "bites per mm" in the filament after it's passed through the extruder but before it goes in the hotend (easier with a bowden of course).
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T19:45:12.487Z
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE no skipped markings, but changing distance between them depending on extrusion speed. http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/ The test you requested.
FarO
<slicing><calibration><speed>
Is a slower outer perimeter speed still meaningful?
FarO
# Is a slower outer perimeter speed still meaningful?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-01-25)

In the past we had printers with poor mechanics and with primitive software algorithms, therefore we used to print inner perimeters faster than the outermost one. See for example (generic, found online):

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/DJeIV.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/DJeIV.jpg)

However now we have pressure/linear advance which reduces extra oozing/extrusion in corners or areas with variable speed, and in Klipper we also have [resonance compensation](https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html) which takes care of imperfect mechanics allowing printers to be pushed to higher acceleration without visible artifacts (in my case from 2000 to 6000 mm/s^2), see (generic) photo:

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/SZhB5.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/SZhB5.jpg)

However printing slower has a clear disadvantage: E steps calibration is speed dependent with more filament being pushed out at lower speed, see

Is there any reason left to print outer perimeters at a lower speed? Using one speed only except for specific areas (small perimeters, bridges, support) seems to make more sense to me to improve quality and reduce printing times.

**Tags:** slicing, calibration, speed

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Thank you for this question and all provided insight. I started experimenting with higher speeds after trying to answer question: [Ideas to tune for 300 % speed](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15417/ideas-to-tune-for-300-speed). I observed big drops on start after long track's pressure-then-retraction, and had almost the same conclusion as a great explanation in the video. I manipulated flow rate to compensate, and slowed on last layers for nice finish. Actually the answer I proposed there reflects your way of thinking. So I upvote your question, curions to read from others.  
> **username_0**: @username_1 the implications of that video are quite far reaching... it is known for a while, but it has been forgotten. http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/ and https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/5588/non-linear-extrusion/6  
> **username_0**: @username_1 I replied to that question as well  
> **username_2**: The claim that E steps calibration is speed dependent is false unless your extruder is skipping, in which case you just *can't print at that speed* without increasing temperature or upgrading your extruder and/or hotend.  
> **username_2**: @username_1: Sounds like you don't have linear advance dialed in right.  
> **username_0**: @username_2 so according to that video above@4:32, the correct printing speed to avoid "skipping" of the extruder is 3 mm^3/s? and according to https://youtu.be/xAiUZ7HDhdM?t=553 2-3 mm^3/s? and in https://youtu.be/RCPDzT3mS4U?t=390 ? The fact that effective extrusion is dependent on extrusion speed on ANY extruder/hotend/nozzle combination is verified by multiple sources. Have you tested your setup? :)  
> **username_2**: @username_0: It's mechanically obvious that, without skipping or increase in compression of the filament along a radial axis, the ratio between filament length moved and motor angle turned cannot decrease. The most likely explanation if it seems to is that there actually is skipping. Indeed I don't think you can go much over 3 mm³/s with a cheap hotend, at least at typical temperatures.  
> **username_2**: I think you could design an experimen to confirm this by counting the expected vs actual "bites per mm" in the filament after it's passed through the extruder but before it goes in the hotend (easier with a bowden of course).  
> **username_0**: @username_2 no skipped markings, but changing distance between them depending on extrusion speed. http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/ The test you requested.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2021-03-08. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

Lowering speed on outer perimeter has always been mostly wrong, but possibly useful. Usually, it's a poor approximation for what you really want to do, which is lowering *acceleration* on the outer perimeter, to avoid surface quality and dimensional accuracy errors due to ringing and backlash. However, on bowden printers without compensation for pressure ("linear advance" in Marlin, aka "pressure advance" in some other firmware), slow acceleration and high speeds give really bad error in extrusion consistency, so you're better off just lowering the max speed too whenever you lower acceleration.

It's also possible that you may want to print at extremely high speeds for inner walls and infill - speeds so high that you get a lot of extrusion consistency problems. If so, it would make sense to retain a sensible max speed on the outer wall. This won't avoid the part strength problems from printing too fast, but if your models are just decorative, it might be worth it.

Generally, though, I'd recommend solving these problems right (using linear advance if your printer needs it, lowering outer perimeter acceleration to get rid of artifacts, printing at a speed your hotend can handle, etc.) and deem "slower outer perimeter" an idea whose time has passed.

Also, note that if you're using a bowden printer *without* linear advance, sticking to the *same speed* for all extrusion will largely paper over the problem. This is probably the source of your observation that it "improves print quality" for you.


---

### Answer by username_3 on 2021-03-08. Score: -1

Thanks to Input Shaper, you can print faster, sometimes to the point of reaching your speed limit on the max nozzle flow speed. At that point, if all speeds are hitting that threshold without any changes in quality, you could print every part at the same maximum speed.

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: Hi and welcome. What is Input Shaper? Is this an additional product (software/hardware?)? Could  you [edit] your answer, and explain a bit more? As it stands, your answer, looks a little bit like spam (although I'm sure that you posted with good intentions). If it is a third-party product, are you affiliated to the company at all? If you are you must disclose this fact. Or is it something that you yourself use and have found to be useful? Thanks  
> **username_0**: username_3, check the question asked: "Is there any reason left to print outer perimeters at a lower speed? ". Your answer is not answering it... this website works strictly as question/answer approach.  

---

