<p>I've never warmed the hot end the three times I've changed the hot end coupler -- and of course, there's no warming to do for the corresponding part at the extruder end of the Bowden tube.</p>
<p>That said, however, I didn't change a coupler until I had several tens of hours on my Ender 3, and if the coupler is installed with a methacrylate thread locker (&quot;Loctite&quot;) heat is a great help in getting the first move on the locked threads.  I don't know any reason heating the hot end would cause problems, as long as you keep your delicate fingers away from the actual nozzle and heat block (and to a lesser extent, the heat break fins).</p>
<p>If the machine has filament or Bowden tub jammed in the coupler, you might find it easier to free them with the nozzle hot -- otherwise, the filament may be bonded to the cold nozzle.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-14T16:22:02.177Z
Thank you. That's interesting. I have seen it mentioned multiple times that the stock couplers are only good for a short time. The reason I'm hesitant to heat it is because like I said it's my first time and I'm afraid I'll mess things up. Changing it right now when it's still not assembled seems safer.
Pouria P
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-14T22:01:29.650Z
@PouriaP: I would avoid making unnecessary changes to a printer you're not familiar with. Reseating the PTFE tube after taking it out is actually something that requires some care not to get wrong, and while you can learn it, you're likely to frustrate yourself making a bunch of gratuitous things to get wrong and have to fix while prepping your new printer rather than waiting til servicing them comes up naturally to figure them out one by one. The tube itself will need to be changed at some point, or you might decide to convert to all-metal or go direct drive, when you'd open it anyway.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-15T15:21:06.710Z
OK so no replacing them it is.
Pouria P
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-14T16:07:48.440Z
2022-09-14T16:07:48.440Z
Zeiss Ikon
<p>I have a brand new Ender 3 v2 that I have not assembled yet. I've seen a lot of people saying the stock couplers break very soon so I already bought new couplers.</p>
<p>Now every video online says I have to warm up the hotend before changing. Some say it's because of the filament being melted in. Some say it's because of expansions and contractions. I'm not really sure what the reason is and I want to know if I need to warm up my printer before changing the couplers or not. Given that it has never been used before.</p>

<creality-ender-3>
Do I have to warm up the hotend for replacing pneumatic couplers on brand new Ender 3?
Pouria P
# Do I have to warm up the hotend for replacing pneumatic couplers on brand new Ender 3?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2022-09-14)

I have a brand new Ender 3 v2 that I have not assembled yet. I've seen a lot of people saying the stock couplers break very soon so I already bought new couplers.

Now every video online says I have to warm up the hotend before changing. Some say it's because of the filament being melted in. Some say it's because of expansions and contractions. I'm not really sure what the reason is and I want to know if I need to warm up my printer before changing the couplers or not. Given that it has never been used before.

**Tags:** creality-ender-3


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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2022-09-14. Score: 1

I've never warmed the hot end the three times I've changed the hot end coupler -- and of course, there's no warming to do for the corresponding part at the extruder end of the Bowden tube.

That said, however, I didn't change a coupler until I had several tens of hours on my Ender 3, and if the coupler is installed with a methacrylate thread locker ("Loctite") heat is a great help in getting the first move on the locked threads. I don't know any reason heating the hot end would cause problems, as long as you keep your delicate fingers away from the actual nozzle and heat block (and to a lesser extent, the heat break fins).

If the machine has filament or Bowden tub jammed in the coupler, you might find it easier to free them with the nozzle hot -- otherwise, the filament may be bonded to the cold nozzle.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Thank you. That's interesting. I have seen it mentioned multiple times that the stock couplers are only good for a short time. The reason I'm hesitant to heat it is because like I said it's my first time and I'm afraid I'll mess things up. Changing it right now when it's still not assembled seems safer.  
> **username_2**: @username_0: I would avoid making unnecessary changes to a printer you're not familiar with. Reseating the PTFE tube after taking it out is actually something that requires some care not to get wrong, and while you can learn it, you're likely to frustrate yourself making a bunch of gratuitous things to get wrong and have to fix while prepping your new printer rather than waiting til servicing them comes up naturally to figure them out one by one. The tube itself will need to be changed at some point, or you might decide to convert to all-metal or go direct drive, when you'd open it anyway.  
> **username_0**: OK so no replacing them it is.  

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