<p>I have printed at least 5 of them (Cura Slicer, Creality CR10s) and there have been no problems. So I can't understand your problems. I would suggest to use another slicer (Cura). I have now repaired the file with Meshmixer and added it (copter_key-175_meshmixer-repair.stl). Maybe this solves your problem.
<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901</a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-28T14:09:48.497Z
Welcome to 3D Printing SE and thank you for your contribution. When you get a chance, please take the [tour] to understand how the site works and how it is different than others.
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-29T00:59:28.760Z
Can you please post exact detailed instructions on how you did the meshmix repair? That seems to have solved my issue entirely (I'm doing some more testing now to be sure). If you didn't want to explain in detail how you did the meshmixer repair, doing it again while [screen-recording (see my instructions here)](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/37040798/how-do-you-use-youtube-dl-to-download-live-streams-that-are-live/66838396#66838396) with [OBS Studio](https://obsproject.com/), and then posting that to YouTube, would also work.
Gabriel Staples
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-28T10:36:56.550Z
2021-11-28T10:36:56.550Z
user32126
<p>Non-manifold objects are only accidentally solid, as sometimes it becomes unclear what is the inside and what is the outside.  Some slicers attempt to fix this and do a good job of guessing how to correct it.  Also, some non-manifold errors are easier to fix than others.</p>
<p>If your slicer is complaining about a part file being non-manifold or you suspect that this is causing a problem, you should bring it into a surface mesh editor like meshlab or blender and try to fix it with the manifold test and repair tools in either of these programs.</p>
<p>Typical ways an STL file could be non-manifold include:</p>
<ul>
<li>cracks between faces caused by round off error</li>
<li>missing faces</li>
<li>flipped faces</li>
<li>interior faces</li>
<li>faces that intersect somewhere other than an edge</li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-30T00:17:27.613Z
2021-11-30T00:17:27.613Z
user10489
<h2>Update 24 Mar. 2023: the maximum <em>usable</em> print volume of the ToyBox 3D printer is approximately <em>74 x 79 x 100 mm (width x length x height)</em>, <em>and</em> you must add supports to keep tall objects from tipping over and catching</h2>
<p>1st, you must add supports to keep tall objects from bending over and catching the nozzle, like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/5GKP4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/5GKP4.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Notice the side supports. Without them, this ball will not print properly. Between 60% and 80% done, it's so tall that the nozzle will eventually catch on the ball edge, tip it over, and then get jammed against it, causing it to think it hit the edge of the print volume, and forcing the center point to shift several mm in the opposite direction. This results in print sheering and possibly damage to the stepper motors or gears.</p>
<p>2nd, the digital bed size of the ToyBox 3D printer (when you go to load an object to print) is <strong>75 x 80 x 100 mm</strong> (7.5 x 8.0 x 10.0 cm).</p>
<p>When printing large objects up to 100mm in height, it seems to work fine. So, that limit is ok. But, when printing large objects which are the full width, ex: a 75mmx75mm circle, the object will get destroyed once the max diameter portion of the circle is reached. This is because the hard mechanical stops (screws, and metal edges of the print space) and/or limit switches of the printer will be hit, causing the print head firmware to adjust the center print point by several mm in the opposite direction. The object will then print with misaligned layers from that point forward. Since the center point just jumped several mm, the end point will be hit again on a future pass on the opposite side, causing it to jump again. It will jump like this repeatedly until the print is complete. You end up with shifted layers as shown in the photo below. This is a 75x75x75mm ball, which printed fine until the max diameter center portion was reached, at which point the mechanical edge stops were hit, the center point was (presumably) readjusted by the firmware, and the layers sheered:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/ndQW2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/ndQW2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>So, when printing, shrink the object 1 or 2 mm (5%, or 3.75mm of 75mm is plenty, and 1%~2%, or 0.75mm~1.5mm of 75mm is probably enough) and be sure to add an outer ring as wide as or just wider than the max diameter of the object. Ex: here is a manually-added outer ring to ensure the print head starts and stays centered at the beginning:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/KcRht.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/KcRht.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>In conclusion, the <strong>maximum <em>usable</em> print volume</strong> of the ToyBox 3D printer is approximately <em>74 x 79 x 100 mm</em>.</p>
<hr />
<p>Back to my original answer:</p>
<h2>ToyBox 3D printer true print dimensions and limit switch problems</h2>
<p>So I figured out that the problem is my print area is so small the printer was occasionally fully pressing and triggering the end-point limit switches! This apparently causes it to stop slightly early, shifting the next layer as it prints.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.toyboxuae.com/blogs/news/what-are-toybox-specifications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The printer specs</a> state that it has a print volume of <strong>9 x 8 x 10 cm</strong>. However, the print design area and viewer at <a href="https://www.make.toys/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.make.toys/</a> shows the design volume like this</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/zouQc.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/zouQc.png" alt="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer" title="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer" /></a></p>
<p>In the square grid shown on the base plate there is 1 cm per square, except that as you can see, the far left and far-right columns are &lt; 1 square. Therefore, looking at this image, the usable bed area appears to be about <strong>7.25 cm x 8 cm</strong> (the grid size shown in the images), NOT 8 cm x 9 cm.</p>
<p>Furthermore, if you do NOT have the &quot;Skip First Ring&quot; option checked on the &quot;Build&quot; tab in the image below, the printer does a &quot;wipe clean&quot; maneuver in the shape of a spiral, circle, or ring around the object to be printed just before beginning the print. This wipes off any dangling stray print material before beginning the print. If your object fully covers the print bed dimensions, however, that ring will be even wider, causing the printer to hit its limit switches.</p>
<p>(<strong>The model in this image is 10.4 cm long, which is too long, causing my printer to hit its limit switches, skewing the layers while printing.</strong>)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/HAZQ7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/HAZQ7.png" alt="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted" title="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted" /></a></p>
<p>So, the problem is that my part is too big. WithOUT that &quot;Skip First Ring&quot; box checked, the dimensions are probably further reduced by another 5 mm or so on X and Y dimensions, bringing it down to about <strong>6.75 cm x 7.5 cm</strong> <em>usable print area.</em> My part was 10.4 cm long. The Pythagorean Theorem says that <span class="math-container">$A^2 + B^2 = C^2$</span>, so <span class="math-container">$C = \sqrt(A^2 + B^2)$</span> = <span class="math-container">$\sqrt(6.75cm^2 + 7.5cm^2)$</span> = <strong>10.09 cm max</strong> on the diagonal. <strong>My 10.4 cm long part was too long. The printer hit the limit switches, botching the layers.</strong></p>
<p>Had I checked that box <em>maybe</em> I could have gotten away with a part closer to <span class="math-container">$\sqrt(7.25^2 + 8^2)$</span> = <strong>10.8 cm long</strong>, but that's really pushing the limits of this printer. <strong>In the end, shrinking the part a bit more to be about 10 cm or less was all I needed to do!</strong></p>
<p>UPDATE: I've also proven conclusively by designing in <a href="http://www.TinkerCad.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">www.TinkerCad.com</a> and printing on the ToyBox that the max allowed print height is exactly <strong>9 cm</strong>, and it will indeed print properly all the way up to that height.</p>
<hr />
<h2>I'd still like a flying propeller</h2>
<p>That being said, even though <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the &quot;key&quot; of the model in my question</a> printed pretty well in the end, the helicopter blade (propeller) printed horribly because the design is flawed and has a bunch of missing material and air gaps around the hub, making the propeller completely unusable!</p>
<p>Instead, I <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1885007" rel="nofollow noreferrer">switched to this thing shown below</a>, shrunk it down to 0.6x to fit my printer, set my printer settings from medium to fine resolution, and got pretty good results! I still need to further tweak and edit the design on <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.tinkercad.com</a> to give the pull key better clearance, and better connection with the hub gear, and I think I'll be able to get a great result! I got it to fly a few times up to 8 ft high or so, but the pull is very rough and inconsistent, so the model needs further tweaking.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/g6G53.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/g6G53.png" alt="Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model" title="Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model" /></a></p>
<p><sub>Keywords: ToyBox 3D printer helicopter and toybox printer clearances, print dimensions, print volume, specs, print settings</sub></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-12-10T17:29:05.593Z
@agarza, thanks for the helpful edits. Just one question: why did you use the HTML `&nbsp;` code to add spaces to my answer instead of just pressing Space Bar to add a space (` `)?
Gabriel Staples
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-12-10T20:37:17.600Z
`&nbsp;` is a Non-Breaking SPace that prevents line breaks between characters, specifically like units of measurement. More information is available [here](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/500/useful-things-to-check-for-when-cleaning-up-posts), [here](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/297/dont-forget-the-space), and [here](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_System_of_Units#General_rules).
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-12-21T08:41:11.127Z
We follow the rule for units having a non-breaking space here. another alternative is to use the unicode to get the non-breaking space (Alt+0160).
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-12-10T07:10:49.187Z
2023-03-25T08:13:39.530Z
2023-03-25T08:13:39.530Z
Gabriel Staples
<p>I am trying to print this really cool <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901/comments" rel="nofollow noreferrer">flying toy model</a> on my <a href="https://toybox.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ToyBox</a> 3D printer, but when I try to print the &quot;copter_key-175.stl&quot; file it complains it is a &quot;non-manifold shape&quot;. How can I fix this .stl file?</p>
<hr />
<p>[update START]</p>
<p><em>Update for future readers:</em>
I haven't tried it yet, but the Free and Open Source slicer software, <a href="https://github.com/slic3r/Slic3r" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Slic3r</a>, boasts this feature worth trying:</p>
<blockquote>
<p><strong>auto-repair</strong> of non-manifold meshes (and ability to re-export them);</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Update again: the <strong>best slicers</strong>, it seems, based on my research, are:</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Cura</strong> (FOSS and professionally supported),</li>
<li><strong>PrusaSlicer</strong> (FOSS, forked from Slic3r, and also professionally supported now).</li>
</ol>
<p>Articles to look at:</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=slic3r%20vs%20cura&amp;oq=slic3r%20vs%20cura&amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j69i65.2775j0j4&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Google search for &quot;slic3r vs cura&quot;</a>
<ol>
<li>Slic3r vs Cura (Cura wins; Slic3r lags due to no full-time company-sponsored development): <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/slic3r-vs-cura-3d-printer-slicer-software-shootout/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://all3dp.com/2/slic3r-vs-cura-3d-printer-slicer-software-shootout/</a></li>
</ol>
</li>
<li><a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=prusaslicer%20vs%20cura&amp;oq=prusaslicer%20vs%20cura&amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.10468j0j4&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Google search for &quot;prusaslicer vs cura&quot;</a>
<ol>
<li>PrusaSlicer vs Cura (Cura wins, but just barely, since both are professionally supported with full-time developers): <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/prusaslicer-vs-cura-differences/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://all3dp.com/2/prusaslicer-vs-cura-differences/</a></li>
</ol>
</li>
</ol>
<p>[update END]</p>
<hr />
<p>Note that I have printed many ToyBox-designed models perfectly with this printer over the last 24 hrs.</p>
<p>I have also split the model (to cut the last few cm off the end and shorten it) using this technique here in TinkerCad, then exported the part as a shorter part so I could print on the smaller bed of the ToyBox printer.</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
                <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1SwSqROgLpY?start=0"></iframe>
            </div></div></p>
<p>Here is what the &quot;key&quot; is supposed to look like:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/hTkbn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D rendering of 'key'"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/hTkbn.jpg" alt="3D rendering of 'key'" title="3D rendering of 'key'" /></a></p>
<p>And here is how it comes out instead. Notice the misaligned teeth and layers about halfway through. Once I saw it was botched, I stopped the print early.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/9BQTr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Side view of 3D printed 'key'"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/9BQTr.jpg" alt="Side view of 3D printed 'key'" title="Side view of 3D printed 'key'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/1gm0T.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Top view of 3D printed 'key'"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/1gm0T.jpg" alt="Top view of 3D printed 'key'" title="Top view of 3D printed 'key'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/GqYyf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Angled view of 3D printed 'key'"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/GqYyf.jpg" alt="Angled view of 3D printed 'key'" title="Angled view of 3D printed 'key'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/RE9sB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Back view of 3D printed 'key'"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/RE9sB.jpg" alt="Back view of 3D printed 'key'" title="Back view of 3D printed 'key'" /></a></p>
<p><strong>How can I make it print properly and/or how can I fix the .stl file?</strong></p>
<h2>Notes:</h2>
<ul>
<li>My operating system is Linux Ubuntu 20.04</li>
<li>I have Windows 10 running in the VirtualBox virtual machine in case I need to run Fusion 360 or something in Windows</li>
<li>I tried installing Meshmixer inside Windows 10 and it won't open. I had read online it can be used to fix .stl files, so I was going to look into that.
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/yfPSh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/yfPSh.png" alt="Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box" title="Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box" /></a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Related:</h2>
<ul>
<li>my comment on <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901/comments#comment-6238246" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse</a></li>
<li>my help request on <a href="https://maketoys.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/4411413024916-Cannot-split-part-in-editor-Something-went-wrong-please-try-again-" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Toybox</a></li>
<li>Another person seeking help for this: <a href="https://tinkercad.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/360038762593-Non-Manifold-Model" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tinkercad.zendesk.com: Non-Manifold Model</a></li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-28T23:24:41.820Z
That looks like a problem with your printer, not the model.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-30T01:05:21.313Z
This looks like layer shifting, thus a printer problem, not the model.
0scar
<print-quality><toybox>
Non-Manifold .stl file won't print properly on my ToyBox 3D printer
Gabriel Staples
# Non-Manifold .stl file won't print properly on my ToyBox 3D printer

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-11-28)

I am trying to print this really cool [flying toy model](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901/comments) on my [ToyBox](https://toybox.com/) 3D printer, but when I try to print the "copter\_key-175.stl" file it complains it is a "non-manifold shape". How can I fix this .stl file?

---

[update START]

*Update for future readers:*
I haven't tried it yet, but the Free and Open Source slicer software, [Slic3r](https://github.com/slic3r/Slic3r), boasts this feature worth trying:

> **auto-repair** of non-manifold meshes (and ability to re-export them);

Update again: the **best slicers**, it seems, based on my research, are:

1. **Cura** (FOSS and professionally supported),
2. **PrusaSlicer** (FOSS, forked from Slic3r, and also professionally supported now).

Articles to look at:

1. [Google search for "slic3r vs cura"](https://www.google.com/search?q=slic3r%20vs%20cura&oq=slic3r%20vs%20cura&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i65.2775j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
   1. Slic3r vs Cura (Cura wins; Slic3r lags due to no full-time company-sponsored development): <https://all3dp.com/2/slic3r-vs-cura-3d-printer-slicer-software-shootout/>
2. [Google search for "prusaslicer vs cura"](https://www.google.com/search?q=prusaslicer%20vs%20cura&oq=prusaslicer%20vs%20cura&aqs=chrome..69i57.10468j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
   1. PrusaSlicer vs Cura (Cura wins, but just barely, since both are professionally supported with full-time developers): <https://all3dp.com/2/prusaslicer-vs-cura-differences/>

[update END]

---

Note that I have printed many ToyBox-designed models perfectly with this printer over the last 24 hrs.

I have also split the model (to cut the last few cm off the end and shorten it) using this technique here in TinkerCad, then exported the part as a shorter part so I could print on the smaller bed of the ToyBox printer.

Here is what the "key" is supposed to look like:

[![3D rendering of 'key'](https://i.sstatic.net/hTkbn.jpg "3D rendering of 'key'")](https://i.sstatic.net/hTkbn.jpg "3D rendering of 'key'")

And here is how it comes out instead. Notice the misaligned teeth and layers about halfway through. Once I saw it was botched, I stopped the print early.

[![Side view of 3D printed 'key'](https://i.sstatic.net/9BQTr.jpg "Side view of 3D printed 'key'")](https://i.sstatic.net/9BQTr.jpg "Side view of 3D printed 'key'")

[![Top view of 3D printed 'key'](https://i.sstatic.net/1gm0T.jpg "Top view of 3D printed 'key'")](https://i.sstatic.net/1gm0T.jpg "Top view of 3D printed 'key'")

[![Angled view of 3D printed 'key'](https://i.sstatic.net/GqYyf.jpg "Angled view of 3D printed 'key'")](https://i.sstatic.net/GqYyf.jpg "Angled view of 3D printed 'key'")

[![Back view of 3D printed 'key'](https://i.sstatic.net/RE9sB.jpg "Back view of 3D printed 'key'")](https://i.sstatic.net/RE9sB.jpg "Back view of 3D printed 'key'")

**How can I make it print properly and/or how can I fix the .stl file?**

## Notes:

* My operating system is Linux Ubuntu 20.04
* I have Windows 10 running in the VirtualBox virtual machine in case I need to run Fusion 360 or something in Windows
* I tried installing Meshmixer inside Windows 10 and it won't open. I had read online it can be used to fix .stl files, so I was going to look into that.
  [![Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box](https://i.sstatic.net/yfPSh.png "Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box")](https://i.sstatic.net/yfPSh.png "Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box")

## Related:

* my comment on [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901/comments#comment-6238246)
* my help request on [Toybox](https://maketoys.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/4411413024916-Cannot-split-part-in-editor-Something-went-wrong-please-try-again-)
* Another person seeking help for this: [tinkercad.zendesk.com: Non-Manifold Model](https://tinkercad.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/360038762593-Non-Manifold-Model)

**Tags:** print-quality, toybox

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: That looks like a problem with your printer, not the model.  
> **username_2**: This looks like layer shifting, thus a printer problem, not the model.  

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_0 on 2021-12-10. Score: 3 | Accepted answer

## Update 24 Mar. 2023: the maximum *usable* print volume of the ToyBox 3D printer is approximately *74 x 79 x 100 mm (width x length x height)*, *and* you must add supports to keep tall objects from tipping over and catching

1st, you must add supports to keep tall objects from bending over and catching the nozzle, like this:

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/5GKP4.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/5GKP4.png)

Notice the side supports. Without them, this ball will not print properly. Between 60% and 80% done, it's so tall that the nozzle will eventually catch on the ball edge, tip it over, and then get jammed against it, causing it to think it hit the edge of the print volume, and forcing the center point to shift several mm in the opposite direction. This results in print sheering and possibly damage to the stepper motors or gears.

2nd, the digital bed size of the ToyBox 3D printer (when you go to load an object to print) is **75 x 80 x 100 mm** (7.5 x 8.0 x 10.0 cm).

When printing large objects up to 100mm in height, it seems to work fine. So, that limit is ok. But, when printing large objects which are the full width, ex: a 75mmx75mm circle, the object will get destroyed once the max diameter portion of the circle is reached. This is because the hard mechanical stops (screws, and metal edges of the print space) and/or limit switches of the printer will be hit, causing the print head firmware to adjust the center print point by several mm in the opposite direction. The object will then print with misaligned layers from that point forward. Since the center point just jumped several mm, the end point will be hit again on a future pass on the opposite side, causing it to jump again. It will jump like this repeatedly until the print is complete. You end up with shifted layers as shown in the photo below. This is a 75x75x75mm ball, which printed fine until the max diameter center portion was reached, at which point the mechanical edge stops were hit, the center point was (presumably) readjusted by the firmware, and the layers sheered:

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/ndQW2.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/ndQW2.jpg)

So, when printing, shrink the object 1 or 2 mm (5%, or 3.75mm of 75mm is plenty, and 1%~2%, or 0.75mm~1.5mm of 75mm is probably enough) and be sure to add an outer ring as wide as or just wider than the max diameter of the object. Ex: here is a manually-added outer ring to ensure the print head starts and stays centered at the beginning:

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/KcRht.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/KcRht.png)

In conclusion, the **maximum *usable* print volume** of the ToyBox 3D printer is approximately *74 x 79 x 100 mm*.

---

Back to my original answer:

## ToyBox 3D printer true print dimensions and limit switch problems

So I figured out that the problem is my print area is so small the printer was occasionally fully pressing and triggering the end-point limit switches! This apparently causes it to stop slightly early, shifting the next layer as it prints.

[The printer specs](https://www.toyboxuae.com/blogs/news/what-are-toybox-specifications) state that it has a print volume of **9 x 8 x 10 cm**. However, the print design area and viewer at <https://www.make.toys/> shows the design volume like this

[![Screenshot of ToyBox viewer](https://i.sstatic.net/zouQc.png "Screenshot of ToyBox viewer")](https://i.sstatic.net/zouQc.png "Screenshot of ToyBox viewer")

In the square grid shown on the base plate there is 1 cm per square, except that as you can see, the far left and far-right columns are < 1 square. Therefore, looking at this image, the usable bed area appears to be about **7.25 cm x 8 cm** (the grid size shown in the images), NOT 8 cm x 9 cm.

Furthermore, if you do NOT have the "Skip First Ring" option checked on the "Build" tab in the image below, the printer does a "wipe clean" maneuver in the shape of a spiral, circle, or ring around the object to be printed just before beginning the print. This wipes off any dangling stray print material before beginning the print. If your object fully covers the print bed dimensions, however, that ring will be even wider, causing the printer to hit its limit switches.

(**The model in this image is 10.4 cm long, which is too long, causing my printer to hit its limit switches, skewing the layers while printing.**)

[![Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted](https://i.sstatic.net/HAZQ7.png "Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted")](https://i.sstatic.net/HAZQ7.png "Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted")

So, the problem is that my part is too big. WithOUT that "Skip First Ring" box checked, the dimensions are probably further reduced by another 5 mm or so on X and Y dimensions, bringing it down to about **6.75 cm x 7.5 cm** *usable print area.* My part was 10.4 cm long. The Pythagorean Theorem says that $A^2 + B^2 = C^2$, so $C = \sqrt(A^2 + B^2)$ = $\sqrt(6.75cm^2 + 7.5cm^2)$ = **10.09 cm max** on the diagonal. **My 10.4 cm long part was too long. The printer hit the limit switches, botching the layers.**

Had I checked that box *maybe* I could have gotten away with a part closer to $\sqrt(7.25^2 + 8^2)$ = **10.8 cm long**, but that's really pushing the limits of this printer. **In the end, shrinking the part a bit more to be about 10 cm or less was all I needed to do!**

UPDATE: I've also proven conclusively by designing in [www.TinkerCad.com](http://www.TinkerCad.com) and printing on the ToyBox that the max allowed print height is exactly **9 cm**, and it will indeed print properly all the way up to that height.

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## I'd still like a flying propeller

That being said, even though [the "key" of the model in my question](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901) printed pretty well in the end, the helicopter blade (propeller) printed horribly because the design is flawed and has a bunch of missing material and air gaps around the hub, making the propeller completely unusable!

Instead, I [switched to this thing shown below](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1885007), shrunk it down to 0.6x to fit my printer, set my printer settings from medium to fine resolution, and got pretty good results! I still need to further tweak and edit the design on <https://www.tinkercad.com> to give the pull key better clearance, and better connection with the hub gear, and I think I'll be able to get a great result! I got it to fly a few times up to 8 ft high or so, but the pull is very rough and inconsistent, so the model needs further tweaking.

[![Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model](https://i.sstatic.net/g6G53.png "Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model")](https://i.sstatic.net/g6G53.png "Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model")

Keywords: ToyBox 3D printer helicopter and toybox printer clearances, print dimensions, print volume, specs, print settings

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: @username_4, thanks for the helpful edits. Just one question: why did you use the HTML `&nbsp;` code to add spaces to my answer instead of just pressing Space Bar to add a space (` `)?  
> **username_4**: `&nbsp;` is a Non-Breaking SPace that prevents line breaks between characters, specifically like units of measurement. More information is available [here](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/500/useful-things-to-check-for-when-cleaning-up-posts), [here](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/297/dont-forget-the-space), and [here](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_System_of_Units#General_rules).  
> **username_1**: We follow the rule for units having a non-breaking space here. another alternative is to use the unicode to get the non-breaking space (Alt+0160).  

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### Answer by username_3 on 2021-11-28. Score: 3

I have printed at least 5 of them (Cura Slicer, Creality CR10s) and there have been no problems. So I can't understand your problems. I would suggest to use another slicer (Cura). I have now repaired the file with Meshmixer and added it (copter\_key-175\_meshmixer-repair.stl). Maybe this solves your problem.
<https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901>

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: Welcome to 3D Printing SE and thank you for your contribution. When you get a chance, please take the [tour] to understand how the site works and how it is different than others.  
> **username_0**: Can you please post exact detailed instructions on how you did the meshmix repair? That seems to have solved my issue entirely (I'm doing some more testing now to be sure). If you didn't want to explain in detail how you did the meshmixer repair, doing it again while [screen-recording (see my instructions here)](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/37040798/how-do-you-use-youtube-dl-to-download-live-streams-that-are-live/66838396#66838396) with [OBS Studio](https://obsproject.com/), and then posting that to YouTube, would also work.  

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### Answer by username_5 on 2021-11-30. Score: 1

Non-manifold objects are only accidentally solid, as sometimes it becomes unclear what is the inside and what is the outside. Some slicers attempt to fix this and do a good job of guessing how to correct it. Also, some non-manifold errors are easier to fix than others.

If your slicer is complaining about a part file being non-manifold or you suspect that this is causing a problem, you should bring it into a surface mesh editor like meshlab or blender and try to fix it with the manifold test and repair tools in either of these programs.

Typical ways an STL file could be non-manifold include:

* cracks between faces caused by round off error
* missing faces
* flipped faces
* interior faces
* faces that intersect somewhere other than an edge


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