<p>I mounted four 10 W resistors under the bed and connected them in parallel to the SKR1.4 board, I installed in the mini.
If you still have the original board, you can connect the resistors to any power source with enough power to drive the load, preferably 24 V.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-15T07:43:17.310Z
2021-07-23T15:39:21.397Z
2021-07-23T15:39:21.397Z
Jochen
<p>I decided to go the way of a silicon heat pad (12V/24V) 200 W.  I got the unit and a 3 mm glass bed. Clipped it to the aluminum, and promptly the head crashed into the side of the bed!</p>
<p>Lesson learned. The Mini in order to go home transitions to a spot at the front of the bed and actually lower than the bed.  This is so that you can level the bed manually by adjusting 4 screws on the gantry. The gantry sits on the bed thus leveling it to the bed.  Because of this, there is only about 4 mm of height available.</p>
<p>One individual who added a heated placed a riser under the z-axis to overcome this limitation. My other thought is to replace the aluminum bed with a glass bed and have the heater on either side of the bottom gantry as there is about 2 mm space there. Since there is an end stop the unit is using others have simply moved this up to match the new height of the bed.</p>
<p>I am assuming <a href="https://www.soliforum.com/topic/18382/how-to-da-vinci-mini-heatbed-conversion/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">[HOW TO] Da Vinci Mini Heatbed Conversion</a> would have attempted a software patch before doing a physical riser.  While in some ways I would feel better raising the riser, I decided to extend the tab on the extruder head to intercept the sensor instead.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-05-12T06:01:41.283Z
2021-05-12T09:37:47.123Z
2021-05-12T09:37:47.123Z
ben
<p>Instead of replacing the bed, you could invest in a silicone heating element and top it off with a piece of (Borosilicate) glass.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/3Vpnr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/3Vpnr.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>If the printer board has exposed headers to attach a heated bed, which is possible, but not certain, you could use an SSR (solid state relay) to power the bed using the signal from the board to set the temperature. Alternatively use a thermostat for an incubator to create the signal for the SSR. Note that all these parts can be sourced from those typical online websites.</p>

<p>In case the wires of the silicone heater stick out, use a layer of cork where you cut out space for the cables and thermistor.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-01-21T11:24:47.160Z
2020-01-21T12:09:05.280Z
2020-01-21T12:09:05.280Z
0scar
<p>Anybody ever tried to retrofit a heatbed to the da Vinci mini w with the proper dimensions (165 mm x 165 mm or 6.5&quot; x 6.5&quot;).</p>
<p>Where can I find a heatbed that fits and a corresponding power supply / PID controller?</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-03-05T07:34:33.997Z
Is there a specific reason you are looking for a heated bed?  Are you having print adhesion or curling issues; or, are you wanting to try a different material that requires a heated bed?
markshancock
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-03-05T10:04:09.820Z
I've severe warping and therefore adhesion issues too, even with PLA. Of course, I am also interested in printing other materials, if the manufacturer finally provides them or if I decide to replace the controller board (so I can print unchiped material).
tmartin
<heated-bed><xyz-da-vinci-mini-w>
Heated bed for the XYZprinting da Vinci mini w
tmartin
# Heated bed for the XYZprinting da Vinci mini w

(Asked by: username_0 on 2018-03-01)

Anybody ever tried to retrofit a heatbed to the da Vinci mini w with the proper dimensions (165 mm x 165 mm or 6.5" x 6.5").

Where can I find a heatbed that fits and a corresponding power supply / PID controller?

**Tags:** heated-bed, xyz-da-vinci-mini-w

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Is there a specific reason you are looking for a heated bed?  Are you having print adhesion or curling issues; or, are you wanting to try a different material that requires a heated bed?  
> **username_0**: I've severe warping and therefore adhesion issues too, even with PLA. Of course, I am also interested in printing other materials, if the manufacturer finally provides them or if I decide to replace the controller board (so I can print unchiped material).  

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## 3 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2021-03-15. Score: 2

I mounted four 10 W resistors under the bed and connected them in parallel to the SKR1.4 board, I installed in the mini.
If you still have the original board, you can connect the resistors to any power source with enough power to drive the load, preferably 24 V.


---

### Answer by username_3 on 2021-05-12. Score: 2

I decided to go the way of a silicon heat pad (12V/24V) 200 W. I got the unit and a 3 mm glass bed. Clipped it to the aluminum, and promptly the head crashed into the side of the bed!

Lesson learned. The Mini in order to go home transitions to a spot at the front of the bed and actually lower than the bed. This is so that you can level the bed manually by adjusting 4 screws on the gantry. The gantry sits on the bed thus leveling it to the bed. Because of this, there is only about 4 mm of height available.

One individual who added a heated placed a riser under the z-axis to overcome this limitation. My other thought is to replace the aluminum bed with a glass bed and have the heater on either side of the bottom gantry as there is about 2 mm space there. Since there is an end stop the unit is using others have simply moved this up to match the new height of the bed.

I am assuming [[HOW TO] Da Vinci Mini Heatbed Conversion](https://www.soliforum.com/topic/18382/how-to-da-vinci-mini-heatbed-conversion/) would have attempted a software patch before doing a physical riser. While in some ways I would feel better raising the riser, I decided to extend the tab on the extruder head to intercept the sensor instead.


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### Answer by username_4 on 2020-01-21. Score: 2

Instead of replacing the bed, you could invest in a silicone heating element and top it off with a piece of (Borosilicate) glass.

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/3Vpnr.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/3Vpnr.jpg)

If the printer board has exposed headers to attach a heated bed, which is possible, but not certain, you could use an SSR (solid state relay) to power the bed using the signal from the board to set the temperature. Alternatively use a thermostat for an incubator to create the signal for the SSR. Note that all these parts can be sourced from those typical online websites.

In case the wires of the silicone heater stick out, use a layer of cork where you cut out space for the cables and thermistor.


---

