<p>Try turning off power-loss resume.</p>
<p>The pattern of blobbing and underextrusion here looks a lot like print issues generated by that particular feature.  Assuming you're printing from an SD card, print resume must write to that SD card data about how far through the print the printer has gone, and this periodic write can cause the printer to stutter or stop periodically if the gcode cache empties while it is writing and can't read the next line.  Alternatively, a faster SD card, or printing from USB may also solve the problem (but require purchasing new equipment or changing your setup).</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-12-17T08:02:07.907Z
really unlikely
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-11-16T13:39:45.103Z
2024-11-16T13:39:45.103Z
Tal
<p>Start with increasing the temperature: 195 °C is the bare minimum print temperature (for PLA, for silky filaments it should be even higher) so you get terrible layer adhesion. Maybe this model is more prone to warping so you finally found out that layer adhesion matters.</p>
<p>Go to 205 °C as very minimum for that filament, and 215 °C would be even better.</p>
<p>Personally I print silky filament at 225-230 °C, but my printer is faster so I need more than usual.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-12-17T08:04:39.163Z
2024-12-17T08:04:39.163Z
FarO
<p>My print has a regular spiral underextrusion which crosses layers (see attached photo). It is likely not a slicer issue since multiple prints of the same model have the spiral pattern in different locations. In particular the underextrusion is not along the Z seam (which follows the sharpest edges in the model).</p>
<p>Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, Ziro matte tri-color filament, 195 °C, very slow print speed.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/lGxSrX09.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/lGxSrX09.jpg" alt="Image of spiral underextrusion" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-11-15T10:30:11.537Z
What is the layer height and the nozzle diameter? It looks like you Z-axis is catching something, cable/Bowden tube?
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-11-15T20:20:53.877Z
It almost looks like topographical elevation lines on a map, but it crosses layer lines which is unusual.  Can you post a picture of the whole printer?  Or even watch the printer as it prints through one of these lines ?  Does a small test print show the issue?
Criggie
<underextrusion>
Sparse regular spiral underextrusion
Morris Ang
# Sparse regular spiral underextrusion

(Asked by: username_0 on 2024-11-15)

My print has a regular spiral underextrusion which crosses layers (see attached photo). It is likely not a slicer issue since multiple prints of the same model have the spiral pattern in different locations. In particular the underextrusion is not along the Z seam (which follows the sharpest edges in the model).

Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, Ziro matte tri-color filament, 195 °C, very slow print speed.

[![Image of spiral underextrusion](https://i.sstatic.net/lGxSrX09.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/lGxSrX09.jpg)

**Tags:** underextrusion

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: What is the layer height and the nozzle diameter? It looks like you Z-axis is catching something, cable/Bowden tube?  
> **username_2**: It almost looks like topographical elevation lines on a map, but it crosses layer lines which is unusual.  Can you post a picture of the whole printer?  Or even watch the printer as it prints through one of these lines ?  Does a small test print show the issue?  

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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2024-11-16. Score: 1

Try turning off power-loss resume.

The pattern of blobbing and underextrusion here looks a lot like print issues generated by that particular feature. Assuming you're printing from an SD card, print resume must write to that SD card data about how far through the print the printer has gone, and this periodic write can cause the printer to stutter or stop periodically if the gcode cache empties while it is writing and can't read the next line. Alternatively, a faster SD card, or printing from USB may also solve the problem (but require purchasing new equipment or changing your setup).

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: really unlikely  

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### Answer by username_4 on 2024-12-17. Score: 0

Start with increasing the temperature: 195 °C is the bare minimum print temperature (for PLA, for silky filaments it should be even higher) so you get terrible layer adhesion. Maybe this model is more prone to warping so you finally found out that layer adhesion matters.

Go to 205 °C as very minimum for that filament, and 215 °C would be even better.

Personally I print silky filament at 225-230 °C, but my printer is faster so I need more than usual.


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