<p>I have two different makes of masking tape. The print stick so well to one of them that I end up ripping the tape up to get it off and the bottom of the print has the tape suck to it. The other roll was the complete opposite, nothing would stick to it. I ended up using the non-stick tape and applied a diluted (30% PVA - 70% water) glue to the (tape covered) hot bed. Works wonderfully.</p>

<p>Mike.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-26T09:03:20.733Z
Hi Mike, while sharing experience is great, and much appreciated, this answer as such does not answer how to remove the glue residue.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-26T09:46:05.623Z
HI Mike and welcome! Hmmm, I have to agree with @0scar. Your answer is a great insight, but it might be better posted as an answer to a more relevant question, such as [Filament moving around and not sticking to bed](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8343/filament-moving-around-and-not-sticking-to-bed). If you posted it there, instead, it would be sure to be upvoted... :-) This post being here, may end up getting downvoted or deleted, as it isn't addressing the issue of removing glue residue. Thanks in advance for your understanding.
Greenonline
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-26T07:33:11.420Z
2019-04-26T07:33:11.420Z
Pommie
<p>Elmer's Purple Gluestick is pretty much based on PVA with a water-indicator. It is a water-soluble material. Tossing the piece into a water bin and brushing it with a toothbrush should remove everything.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-25T18:16:23.900Z
2019-04-25T18:16:23.900Z
Trish
<p>Following advice I read elsewhere, I have covered my (heated) print bed with blue painter's tape, and before each print I apply an Elmer's purple washable glue stick to improve bed adhesion.</p>

<p>After the print finishes and I remove the part from the bed, the bottom is covered with a white residue. I'm fairly certain this is the dried glue. It turns purple again when I wet it.</p>

<p>Is there an easy way to clean off this residue, or is there a better technique?</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/bizFY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/bizFY.jpg" alt="example part with residue"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-21T17:24:35.980Z
I've been using name brand blue painters tape with a 60C bed for PLA and don't find I need any extra glue for adhesion.  I have been able to print 5 chesses back to back on the same spot on the tape even. The 6th piece broke free after the base was printed.  I've been slowly pulling the pieces off after the bed cools about 5 degrees C, and then start the next one so there is not a lot of time waiting for bed reheating.
CrossRoads
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-25T17:42:06.807Z
I'd bet acetone, but you might want to try it on a very small spot before you do to make sure it doesn't mess anything up with the print. It'd take the goo off, but whether it is harmful to the print I'd not be sure.
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-25T17:51:51.770Z
being made for kids to use, it's water-soluable. warm water and gentle scrubbing with a sponge or rag will rinse it right off, or you can soak it for a few mins if you have a lot of parts.
dandavis
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-25T17:54:50.540Z
i'd been using tape/glue sticks. I now use a thin coat of hairspray on the glass itself. It also sticks to the print, peeling when the bed cools and the print's removed. I apply a THIN coat after clearing the bed, and let it dry on a hot (60C) bed for 5-10 mins. It adheres well and unlike glue or tape, i never have to completely "overhaul" it, i just touch up bald spots with a quick puff or two. It also rinses off easily with hot water.
dandavis
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-25T21:16:32.167Z
Apart from the glue residue, your first layer is awful, you might want to lower the distance between nozzle and bed or invest in a sheet of glass and use hairspray or 3DLAC or any other spray adhesive.
0scar
<print-quality><adhesion>
Removing glue residue on part after printing
rgov
# Removing glue residue on part after printing

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-04-25)

Following advice I read elsewhere, I have covered my (heated) print bed with blue painter's tape, and before each print I apply an Elmer's purple washable glue stick to improve bed adhesion.

After the print finishes and I remove the part from the bed, the bottom is covered with a white residue. I'm fairly certain this is the dried glue. It turns purple again when I wet it.

Is there an easy way to clean off this residue, or is there a better technique?

[![example part with residue](https://i.sstatic.net/bizFY.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/bizFY.jpg)

**Tags:** print-quality, adhesion

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: I'd bet acetone, but you might want to try it on a very small spot before you do to make sure it doesn't mess anything up with the print. It'd take the goo off, but whether it is harmful to the print I'd not be sure.  
> **username_3**: being made for kids to use, it's water-soluable. warm water and gentle scrubbing with a sponge or rag will rinse it right off, or you can soak it for a few mins if you have a lot of parts.  
> **username_3**: i'd been using tape/glue sticks. I now use a thin coat of hairspray on the glass itself. It also sticks to the print, peeling when the bed cools and the print's removed. I apply a THIN coat after clearing the bed, and let it dry on a hot (60C) bed for 5-10 mins. It adheres well and unlike glue or tape, i never have to completely "overhaul" it, i just touch up bald spots with a quick puff or two. It also rinses off easily with hot water.  
> **username_4**: Apart from the glue residue, your first layer is awful, you might want to lower the distance between nozzle and bed or invest in a sheet of glass and use hairspray or 3DLAC or any other spray adhesive.  
> **username_1**: I've been using name brand blue painters tape with a 60C bed for PLA and don't find I need any extra glue for adhesion.  I have been able to print 5 chesses back to back on the same spot on the tape even. The 6th piece broke free after the base was printed.  I've been slowly pulling the pieces off after the bed cools about 5 degrees C, and then start the next one so there is not a lot of time waiting for bed reheating.  

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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_7 on 2019-04-25. Score: 3 | Accepted answer

Elmer's Purple Gluestick is pretty much based on PVA with a water-indicator. It is a water-soluble material. Tossing the piece into a water bin and brushing it with a toothbrush should remove everything.


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### Answer by username_5 on 2019-04-26. Score: 0

I have two different makes of masking tape. The print stick so well to one of them that I end up ripping the tape up to get it off and the bottom of the print has the tape suck to it. The other roll was the complete opposite, nothing would stick to it. I ended up using the non-stick tape and applied a diluted (30% PVA - 70% water) glue to the (tape covered) hot bed. Works wonderfully.

Mike.

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: Hi Mike, while sharing experience is great, and much appreciated, this answer as such does not answer how to remove the glue residue.  
> **username_6**: HI Mike and welcome! Hmmm, I have to agree with @username_4. Your answer is a great insight, but it might be better posted as an answer to a more relevant question, such as [Filament moving around and not sticking to bed](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8343/filament-moving-around-and-not-sticking-to-bed). If you posted it there, instead, it would be sure to be upvoted... :-) This post being here, may end up getting downvoted or deleted, as it isn't addressing the issue of removing glue residue. Thanks in advance for your understanding.  

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