<p>The Ender 3 Pro bed looks like a sheet of steel with a stick-on plastic sheet.  If the steel plate is bent, you would probably be happier to buy another one.  If the plastic film has lifted off the bed, you might be happier to buy a new plate, although there are sheets of film with adhesive available.</p>

<p>If you are printing small objects, you can plate them other than in the center.</p>

<p>If the problem is that the central bump screws up auto-leveling, try ironing while you are waiting for the new one to arrive.</p>

<p>I looked on the Creality site but did not find listings for spare parts.  You may need to be a customer to see that part of the catalog.</p>

<p>Ironing it might work.  The adhesive is probably good for 110 C.  I say that because the specs for the Prusa3D bed are similar.  I looked up the 3M product used for the PEI surface and found that the adhesive was the limiting factor at 110 C.  The PEI was good for a higher temperature.  If ironing doesn't work, buy another one.  If ironing does, come back and answer your own question so the information is preserved.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-06-28T01:00:09.070Z
From the Creality website, the print surface doesn't like flex steel (way too flexible), more like refrigerator magnet type stuff with plastic print (PEI?) coating.  Not that durable apparently.  Might be a good to time to add a WhamBam magnet/flex steel with PEX surface to print on. Stuff pops off the PEX really nice, been using it for a week or so now.
CrossRoads
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-06-27T18:39:08.213Z
2019-06-27T18:39:08.213Z
cmm
<p>When trying calibration prints, I printed something with 240 celcius on magnetic heatbed and when removing the object, because it sticked very hard on surface, it uplifted surface of magnetic bed.</p>

<p>So when printing first layers, nozzle touches the bed when it's passing on that points.</p>

<p>Is there any way to fix this? I'm thinking about ironing the magnetic bed but not sure.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-06-27T15:33:50.377Z
What material is the bed composed of? How thick is it? Note, you will probably have to replace it, or at least rotate it so that the nozzle never crosses the bent area.
Davo
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-06-27T15:36:34.430Z
I'm not sure, it's stock bed came with Ender 3 Pro, are there many kinds of it? It seems I cannot rotate it, otherwise magnetic part will be on top?
she hates me
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-06-27T16:11:03.027Z
https://www.creality3d.shop/products/creality3d-ender-3-pro-high-precision-3d-printer?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuvXsvIWK4wIVAdvACh0eTwTeEAYYASABEgKWa_D_BwE  So you print on a surface which is combination print surface/magnet.  Sounds like you wrecked it.  Time for a new sheet of the stuff.  What material needs 240C bed?  Sounds really hot, even ABS only needs 120C.  Website shows Bed Temp <= 110C, how did you manage to reach 240C?  I think by "rotate" was meant as spin it around like a dinner plate and print on a  non-lifted area; rotate was not meant as flip it over.
CrossRoads
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-06-27T16:11:15.480Z
Rotate means around the z axis, not x or y
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-06-27T16:19:45.520Z
@CrossRoads Yes combination of magnet and surface, bed wasn't 240 celcius, extruder was 240, bed was 60. But first layer sticked very hard on surface. I never used that temperature before, I use 210 with PLA+ and works okay but that was a "calibration/test" model.

About rotating, unfortunately lifted area is on center.
she hates me
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-06-27T16:21:30.437Z
BTW, maybe I'm using wrong terminology, right word might be "magnetic sticker", not the heated bed.
she hates me
<heated-bed><creality-ender-3>
Fixing uplifted magnetic heatbed surface
she hates me
# Fixing uplifted magnetic heatbed surface

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-06-27)

When trying calibration prints, I printed something with 240 celcius on magnetic heatbed and when removing the object, because it sticked very hard on surface, it uplifted surface of magnetic bed.

So when printing first layers, nozzle touches the bed when it's passing on that points.

Is there any way to fix this? I'm thinking about ironing the magnetic bed but not sure.

**Tags:** heated-bed, creality-ender-3

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: What material is the bed composed of? How thick is it? Note, you will probably have to replace it, or at least rotate it so that the nozzle never crosses the bent area.  
> **username_0**: I'm not sure, it's stock bed came with Ender 3 Pro, are there many kinds of it? It seems I cannot rotate it, otherwise magnetic part will be on top?  
> **username_2**: https://www.creality3d.shop/products/creality3d-ender-3-pro-high-precision-3d-printer?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuvXsvIWK4wIVAdvACh0eTwTeEAYYASABEgKWa_D_BwE  So you print on a surface which is combination print surface/magnet.  Sounds like you wrecked it.  Time for a new sheet of the stuff.  What material needs 240C bed?  Sounds really hot, even ABS only needs 120C.  Website shows Bed Temp <= 110C, how did you manage to reach 240C?  I think by "rotate" was meant as spin it around like a dinner plate and print on a  non-lifted area; rotate was not meant as flip it over.  
> **username_3**: Rotate means around the z axis, not x or y  
> **username_0**: @username_2 Yes combination of magnet and surface, bed wasn't 240 celcius, extruder was 240, bed was 60. But first layer sticked very hard on surface. I never used that temperature before, I use 210 with PLA+ and works okay but that was a "calibration/test" model.  About rotating, unfortunately lifted area is on center.  
> **username_0**: BTW, maybe I'm using wrong terminology, right word might be "magnetic sticker", not the heated bed.  

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_4 on 2019-06-27. Score: 1

The Ender 3 Pro bed looks like a sheet of steel with a stick-on plastic sheet. If the steel plate is bent, you would probably be happier to buy another one. If the plastic film has lifted off the bed, you might be happier to buy a new plate, although there are sheets of film with adhesive available.

If you are printing small objects, you can plate them other than in the center.

If the problem is that the central bump screws up auto-leveling, try ironing while you are waiting for the new one to arrive.

I looked on the Creality site but did not find listings for spare parts. You may need to be a customer to see that part of the catalog.

Ironing it might work. The adhesive is probably good for 110 C. I say that because the specs for the Prusa3D bed are similar. I looked up the 3M product used for the PEI surface and found that the adhesive was the limiting factor at 110 C. The PEI was good for a higher temperature. If ironing doesn't work, buy another one. If ironing does, come back and answer your own question so the information is preserved.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: From the Creality website, the print surface doesn't like flex steel (way too flexible), more like refrigerator magnet type stuff with plastic print (PEI?) coating.  Not that durable apparently.  Might be a good to time to add a WhamBam magnet/flex steel with PEX surface to print on. Stuff pops off the PEX really nice, been using it for a week or so now.  

---

