<blockquote>
<p>What is this called</p>
</blockquote>
<p>This is called <strong>warping</strong>.</p>
<p>Warping of prints occurs frequently when you use a filament that shrinks. If the model would shrink uniformly, it will become smaller, like in a scaled version (unfortunately, the print is attached somewhere, which causes stresses in the first layers). But, if (due to the geometry of the print) some part of the model shrinks more, the model warps. It could then bend upwards from the build plate, deform at higher layers or sometimes even crack (e.g. in between layers).</p>
<blockquote>
<p>and how do I avoid it?</p>
</blockquote>
<ul>
<li>A high(er) build plate temperature</li>
<li>Not use a filament that is prone to shrink, e.g. ABS is frequently replaced by PETG/NGEN/some other Co-polymer nowadays</li>
<li>Decent adhesion by using everything you can image to get the filament to stick to the build platform:
<ul>
<li>A rough build plate surface, like e.g. BuildTak or equivalent</li>
<li>An adhesive like glue stick or specific sprays like Dimafix or equivalent</li>
<li>A slurry of ABS and acetone</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Use an enclosure to raise the temperature of the build volume</li>
<li>If an enclosure is impossible, use a draft shied (basically a multi layer skirt which creates a sort of a mini enclosure)</li>
<li>Use a raft</li>
<li>Don't use part fan cooling</li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-19T17:06:53.747Z
I tried it again with glue, and it stuck onto the plate. The first layers were fine until approximately a height of 2 mm. Then the model warped again.
tmighty
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-19T18:23:01.840Z
Did you use an enclosure or a draft shield? ABS is pretty useless without proper heat management.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-19T19:58:51.697Z
0scar listed many good tips. However, don't spare: use an enclosure (4 walls are enough, no strict need to close the top), with glue stick applied on a bed cleaned with soapy water and then alcohol, bed which is heated at 95-105 °C, with a brim of about 5-10 mm, with also a draft shield. Don't start one by one, use all I suggested.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-19T21:14:32.387Z
I second @FarO, you need to shield for draft, four walls and an open top will work, the bed is the heating element for the "enclosure". For my Ultimaker I used to put a piece of cardboard in the front opening, top open.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-20T18:15:26.583Z
OP uses  *nozzle temperature is 195 °C.* - far too cold for ABS. 220 or something would be typica.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-20T18:38:56.470Z
@Trish I'd rather go at least 235 °C and use some sort of a shielding and proper adhesion spray on a 100 °C bed. ABS is not my "go to" filament, used this years back, PETG seemed much more suitable for me. Recently bought ASA to play with.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-20T18:42:50.547Z
True, 220 was the minimum to print it *at all*...
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-19T09:00:54.223Z
2022-09-19T18:21:49.403Z
2022-09-19T18:21:49.403Z
0scar
<p>You are getting warping. It's unusual in this case, as your overall model is relatively low profile. It's the taller stuff that likes to warp.</p>
<p>Consider to edit your post to include the layer heights and also the filament type and filament and bed temperatures. My first instinct is that your bed temperature is too low. There's little harm to be had by raising the temperature by ten degrees or so. Also if your slicer arbitrarily reduces the bed temperature after the first layers, disable that feature. There's no sense to set a good adhesion temperature on a print and later reduce it, yet I've seen slicer results that do just that.</p>
<p>Too cold filament by a substantial amount can also reduce the adhesion in combination with a too low bed temperature.</p>
<p>If you still run into adhesion problems, the Elmer's Purple Glue Stick works wonders.</p>
<p>With the new information comes new responses:</p>
<p>For ABS, 80 °C is on the low end for the bed, but may work. The extruder temp is really low for ABS. I run 250 °C for ABS. Also ensure some form of enclosure, even a cardboard box will help. I've accidentally fed ABS into a PLA profile. The results were surprisingly good, although warping was prevalent and some underextrusion was evident.</p>
<p>If you have a glass bed, you will very much want to use glue stick, as a release agent, not as an adhesive. ABS sticks really well to clean glass, well enough that it will pull fragments of glass from the surface!</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-18T20:55:18.877Z
I disagree that raising bed temp by ~10 degrees is generally harmless, but for this model it should be fine. On the other hand I completely second your point about slicer lowering bed temp after the first layers being utterly bonkers. If anything you want to do the opposite: start out with a lower bed temp so as not to inhibit cooling of the low layers, but increase it once you get high enough that's not an issue to avoid large-scale warping that detaches the part from the buildplate.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-18T21:49:05.643Z
we won't really know until (if) the OP provides specifics
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-19T13:03:45.963Z
I missed that it was ABS. Increasing the bed temperature should never hurt for ABS. So yeah.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-19T13:28:01.987Z
Yeah, first line and I missed it too.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-20T11:00:50.110Z
@fred_dot_u I have added the temperatures to the post. Bed = 80 °C, Extruder: 195 °C.
tmighty
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-18T18:34:39.613Z
2022-09-20T13:58:25.263Z
2022-09-20T13:58:25.263Z
fred_dot_u
<p>This is definitely warping caused by subpar adhesion to the bed, you can try glue or making the bed hotter as <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/19944/">this answer</a> suggests.</p>
<p>Another way of really making sure is to take off the square corner. They seem to be really prone to warping. When I have a persistent issue that is beating the glue stick and bed heat I will add a bit to the design itself to have a rounded edge at the corner. Basically just a flat circle that goes a bit further out where the sharp corner is and just for the first few layers (frequently called mouse ears). Then during post processing I cut it off.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-19T18:12:09.187Z
Could you post a screenshot as an example?
tmighty
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-20T02:50:19.297Z
@tmighty I don't have a screenshot sorry, but here's a youtube vid of a chap doing much the same thing I just found https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bU4V2c9OaDQ
Kilisi
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-19T01:07:37.450Z
2022-09-19T14:53:17.680Z
2022-09-19T14:53:17.680Z
Kilisi
<p>ABS is a challenging material to print because it warps. It warps because it shrinks as it cools. The top layers are cooler than the bottom layers on a heated bed, so they become slightly smaller, and flat things turn happy face shape.</p>
<p>The real way to print big flat parts in ABS is with an insulated enclosure, that keeps the temperature up and the top layers don’t shrink enough to peel the model off the build plate. Recommended bed temperature is 100 °C, which many printers struggle with.</p>
<p>I have only been able to get ABS to stick to the bed with “ABS juice”, a mixture of acetone and scrap ABS filament. Wear gloves and mop some onto the bed with a paper towel or brush. Check that your print surface is compatible with acetone, otherwise you’ll have to use something milder, like gluestick.</p>
<p>As well as using ABS juice/glue on the print surface, use a brim. It is an extra, sacrificial layer of plastic around the model on the first layer that can help big flat parts stay stuck down. It is relatively easy to peel off by hand or shave off with a utility knife.</p>
<p>A brim of 10 mm is a good starting point. Nuclear option: if a print or material is really problematic you can pause the print after 3 layers or so and tape the brim down to the bed with wide blue painter’s tape.</p>
<p>If it is cold in your shop, a heat lamp or 100 Watt incandescent bulb near the print can keep the temperature up, if you don’t want to build an enclosure.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-19T04:31:57.723Z
2022-09-19T06:59:05.990Z
2022-09-19T06:59:05.990Z
ChinchillaWafers
<p>I want to print the following model on my Kobra Max using ABS.</p>
<p>I have uploaded it <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XMasuTVzg3MCHDd3Txi7sb-pUqEzPtE0/view?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/H0zNf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the Cura preview for a 3D model"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/H0zNf.jpg" alt="Screenshot of the Cura preview for a 3D model" title="Screenshot of the Cura preview for a 3D model" /></a></p>
<p>I have tried it 3 times now, it always results in this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/SoZMu.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the printed model on the build plate with corners curled up"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/SoZMu.png" alt="Photo of the printed model on the build plate with corners curled up" title="Photo of the printed model on the build plate with corners curled up" /></a></p>
<p>As you can see, one part managed to break free from the support and warped upwards.
At this point, I had to stop the print process.</p>
<p>The element which broke free really has a strong will to bend.</p>
<p>What could I do in this case?</p>
<p>These are my print settings; bed temperature is 80 °C, and nozzle temperature is 195 °C.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/7EaSA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the Travel and Build Plate Adhesion settings in Cura"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/7EaSA.png" alt="Screenshot of the Travel and Build Plate Adhesion settings in Cura" title="Screenshot of the Travel and Build Plate Adhesion settings in Cura" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-18T20:56:19.813Z
Was it ever attached to that support structure? It doesn't look like it was supposed to be. Rather the support structure is for part of the print that hasn't even happened yet.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-18T21:47:36.097Z
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE, your assessment appears correct. The slicer probably has a parameter to space the support a distance away from the adjacent print, making it unrelated to the main warping problem.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-19T20:01:43.040Z
You may want to use TitanX/NiceABS on your printer, which is ABS mixed with PETG and it basically does not warp. Also, all ABS are printed at 230 °C at the VERY least... 240 °C recommended. 195 °C is going to produce SUPER weak prints. Have you read the recommendations printed on the spool or box?
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-20T07:52:40.350Z
Did you notice that you are printing ABS using A PROFILE FOR PLA?
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-20T10:42:05.340Z
@FarO Yes, there is no profile for ABS for Kobra Max in Cura. I downloaded the profile from this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37AajqIXLoE I am *absolutely* new to this and thought it might just work. So I should contact the author and ask him if there is an ABS profile available, right?
tmighty
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-20T11:02:48.250Z
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE Hmmmm, perhaps I misunderstood what the Slicer produced. At least it looked like it was attached, but perhaps it was not and was never meant to be attached. I will have a look when I try it again. I am just trying it without this brim.
tmighty
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-20T13:08:50.893Z
@tmighty then it could have the wrong fan settings: PLA requires full speed, ABS zero except when a layer is too short. Having the fan always on with ABS causes warping.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-09-20T18:14:54.580Z
**nozzle temperature is 195 °C.**? That is **VERY** cold for ABS
Trish
<abs><warping><anycubic-kobra-max>
What is this called and how do I avoid it? (model frees itself from support structure and warps upwards)
tmighty
# What is this called and how do I avoid it? (model frees itself from support structure and warps upwards)

(Asked by: username_0 on 2022-09-18)

I want to print the following model on my Kobra Max using ABS.

I have uploaded it [here](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XMasuTVzg3MCHDd3Txi7sb-pUqEzPtE0/view?usp=sharing).

[![Screenshot of the Cura preview for a 3D model](https://i.sstatic.net/H0zNf.jpg "Screenshot of the Cura preview for a 3D model")](https://i.sstatic.net/H0zNf.jpg "Screenshot of the Cura preview for a 3D model")

I have tried it 3 times now, it always results in this:

[![Photo of the printed model on the build plate with corners curled up](https://i.sstatic.net/SoZMu.png "Photo of the printed model on the build plate with corners curled up")](https://i.sstatic.net/SoZMu.png "Photo of the printed model on the build plate with corners curled up")

As you can see, one part managed to break free from the support and warped upwards.
At this point, I had to stop the print process.

The element which broke free really has a strong will to bend.

What could I do in this case?

These are my print settings; bed temperature is 80 °C, and nozzle temperature is 195 °C.

[![Screenshot of the Travel and Build Plate Adhesion settings in Cura](https://i.sstatic.net/7EaSA.png "Screenshot of the Travel and Build Plate Adhesion settings in Cura")](https://i.sstatic.net/7EaSA.png "Screenshot of the Travel and Build Plate Adhesion settings in Cura")

**Tags:** abs, warping, anycubic-kobra-max

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Was it ever attached to that support structure? It doesn't look like it was supposed to be. Rather the support structure is for part of the print that hasn't even happened yet.  
> **username_2**: @username_1, your assessment appears correct. The slicer probably has a parameter to space the support a distance away from the adjacent print, making it unrelated to the main warping problem.  
> **username_3**: You may want to use TitanX/NiceABS on your printer, which is ABS mixed with PETG and it basically does not warp. Also, all ABS are printed at 230 °C at the VERY least... 240 °C recommended. 195 °C is going to produce SUPER weak prints. Have you read the recommendations printed on the spool or box?  
> **username_3**: Did you notice that you are printing ABS using A PROFILE FOR PLA?  
> **username_0**: @username_3 Yes, there is no profile for ABS for Kobra Max in Cura. I downloaded the profile from this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37AajqIXLoE I am *absolutely* new to this and thought it might just work. So I should contact the author and ask him if there is an ABS profile available, right?  
> **username_0**: @username_1 Hmmmm, perhaps I misunderstood what the Slicer produced. At least it looked like it was attached, but perhaps it was not and was never meant to be attached. I will have a look when I try it again. I am just trying it without this brim.  
> **username_3**: @username_0 then it could have the wrong fan settings: PLA requires full speed, ABS zero except when a layer is too short. Having the fan always on with ABS causes warping.  
> **username_4**: **nozzle temperature is 195 °C.**? That is **VERY** cold for ABS  

---

## 4 answers

### Answer by username_5 on 2022-09-19. Score: 7

> What is this called

This is called **warping**.

Warping of prints occurs frequently when you use a filament that shrinks. If the model would shrink uniformly, it will become smaller, like in a scaled version (unfortunately, the print is attached somewhere, which causes stresses in the first layers). But, if (due to the geometry of the print) some part of the model shrinks more, the model warps. It could then bend upwards from the build plate, deform at higher layers or sometimes even crack (e.g. in between layers).

> and how do I avoid it?

* A high(er) build plate temperature
* Not use a filament that is prone to shrink, e.g. ABS is frequently replaced by PETG/NGEN/some other Co-polymer nowadays
* Decent adhesion by using everything you can image to get the filament to stick to the build platform:
  + A rough build plate surface, like e.g. BuildTak or equivalent
  + An adhesive like glue stick or specific sprays like Dimafix or equivalent
  + A slurry of ABS and acetone
* Use an enclosure to raise the temperature of the build volume
* If an enclosure is impossible, use a draft shied (basically a multi layer skirt which creates a sort of a mini enclosure)
* Use a raft
* Don't use part fan cooling

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: I tried it again with glue, and it stuck onto the plate. The first layers were fine until approximately a height of 2 mm. Then the model warped again.  
> **username_5**: Did you use an enclosure or a draft shield? ABS is pretty useless without proper heat management.  
> **username_3**: username_5 listed many good tips. However, don't spare: use an enclosure (4 walls are enough, no strict need to close the top), with glue stick applied on a bed cleaned with soapy water and then alcohol, bed which is heated at 95-105 °C, with a brim of about 5-10 mm, with also a draft shield. Don't start one by one, use all I suggested.  
> **username_5**: I second @username_3, you need to shield for draft, four walls and an open top will work, the bed is the heating element for the "enclosure". For my Ultimaker I used to put a piece of cardboard in the front opening, top open.  
> **username_4**: OP uses  *nozzle temperature is 195 °C.* - far too cold for ABS. 220 or something would be typica.  
> **username_5**: @username_4 I'd rather go at least 235 °C and use some sort of a shielding and proper adhesion spray on a 100 °C bed. ABS is not my "go to" filament, used this years back, PETG seemed much more suitable for me. Recently bought ASA to play with.  
> **username_4**: True, 220 was the minimum to print it *at all*...  

---

### Answer by username_2 on 2022-09-18. Score: 4

You are getting warping. It's unusual in this case, as your overall model is relatively low profile. It's the taller stuff that likes to warp.

Consider to edit your post to include the layer heights and also the filament type and filament and bed temperatures. My first instinct is that your bed temperature is too low. There's little harm to be had by raising the temperature by ten degrees or so. Also if your slicer arbitrarily reduces the bed temperature after the first layers, disable that feature. There's no sense to set a good adhesion temperature on a print and later reduce it, yet I've seen slicer results that do just that.

Too cold filament by a substantial amount can also reduce the adhesion in combination with a too low bed temperature.

If you still run into adhesion problems, the Elmer's Purple Glue Stick works wonders.

With the new information comes new responses:

For ABS, 80 °C is on the low end for the bed, but may work. The extruder temp is really low for ABS. I run 250 °C for ABS. Also ensure some form of enclosure, even a cardboard box will help. I've accidentally fed ABS into a PLA profile. The results were surprisingly good, although warping was prevalent and some underextrusion was evident.

If you have a glass bed, you will very much want to use glue stick, as a release agent, not as an adhesive. ABS sticks really well to clean glass, well enough that it will pull fragments of glass from the surface!

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: I disagree that raising bed temp by ~10 degrees is generally harmless, but for this model it should be fine. On the other hand I completely second your point about slicer lowering bed temp after the first layers being utterly bonkers. If anything you want to do the opposite: start out with a lower bed temp so as not to inhibit cooling of the low layers, but increase it once you get high enough that's not an issue to avoid large-scale warping that detaches the part from the buildplate.  
> **username_2**: we won't really know until (if) the OP provides specifics  
> **username_1**: I missed that it was ABS. Increasing the bed temperature should never hurt for ABS. So yeah.  
> **username_2**: Yeah, first line and I missed it too.  
> **username_0**: @username_2 I have added the temperatures to the post. Bed = 80 °C, Extruder: 195 °C.  

---

### Answer by username_6 on 2022-09-19. Score: 4

This is definitely warping caused by subpar adhesion to the bed, you can try glue or making the bed hotter as [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/19944/) suggests.

Another way of really making sure is to take off the square corner. They seem to be really prone to warping. When I have a persistent issue that is beating the glue stick and bed heat I will add a bit to the design itself to have a rounded edge at the corner. Basically just a flat circle that goes a bit further out where the sharp corner is and just for the first few layers (frequently called mouse ears). Then during post processing I cut it off.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Could you post a screenshot as an example?  
> **username_6**: @username_0 I don't have a screenshot sorry, but here's a youtube vid of a chap doing much the same thing I just found https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bU4V2c9OaDQ  

---

### Answer by username_7 on 2022-09-19. Score: 4

ABS is a challenging material to print because it warps. It warps because it shrinks as it cools. The top layers are cooler than the bottom layers on a heated bed, so they become slightly smaller, and flat things turn happy face shape.

The real way to print big flat parts in ABS is with an insulated enclosure, that keeps the temperature up and the top layers don’t shrink enough to peel the model off the build plate. Recommended bed temperature is 100 °C, which many printers struggle with.

I have only been able to get ABS to stick to the bed with “ABS juice”, a mixture of acetone and scrap ABS filament. Wear gloves and mop some onto the bed with a paper towel or brush. Check that your print surface is compatible with acetone, otherwise you’ll have to use something milder, like gluestick.

As well as using ABS juice/glue on the print surface, use a brim. It is an extra, sacrificial layer of plastic around the model on the first layer that can help big flat parts stay stuck down. It is relatively easy to peel off by hand or shave off with a utility knife.

A brim of 10 mm is a good starting point. Nuclear option: if a print or material is really problematic you can pause the print after 3 layers or so and tape the brim down to the bed with wide blue painter’s tape.

If it is cold in your shop, a heat lamp or 100 Watt incandescent bulb near the print can keep the temperature up, if you don’t want to build an enclosure.


---

