<p>The reason for this sort of error might be either 
1) a clogged nozzel, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bg4sOaSvimY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">try doing this </a>
2) disturbed bed level,<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL3Gmy4hh3Y" rel="nofollow noreferrer">resolve this issue </a>
3) poor filament quality,</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-23T14:53:43.980Z
2020-04-23T14:53:43.980Z
Mohamed
<p>One hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger than lower values. By having such a high infill figure, the forces on the model as it cools are magnified and not in a particularly good manner.</p>

<p>Consider that you could use twenty to thirty percent infill to get the strength you require for this application, saving filament and time for the print. You've not noted how many wall layers used, but for increased strength, four to five would make for a very strong model.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-23T15:38:52.823Z
Thanks! There's a "wall line count" setting, I'm assuming this is what you mean "how many layers". The default (which I used) is 3. If increasing wall layers count increases strength, how is that different from infill? If I use 10 wall layers, for example, so that the whole mass is "walls", wouldn't that be the same result as using 100% infill?
Stratubas
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-23T17:06:11.140Z
@Stratubas - Yes, technically it is true you could increase the wall line count to get to this, but rarely ever would come into play. One of the problems with 100% infill is you are retaining a LOT of heat within the print itself. Because of this, it isn't able to cool correctly or quickly enough to setup. It doesn't surprise me your print pulled apart. What I'm surprised about is it didn't pull apart more. Using a 30% infill will most likely cure your ills ... you could probably go down to 20% and still get the same strength and rigidity. Way more than what you need, IMHO.
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-24T01:35:56.283Z
@Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2: Not only are you retaining heat, but if the extrusion is even slightly over the nominal amount of material desired, at 100% infill there's **nowhere for the excess to go** and it will necessarily exert forces that warp your print (usually even causing slop to extend upward and collide with the nozzle, resulting in the print getting knocked off the bed).
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-23T15:28:45.770Z
2020-04-23T15:28:45.770Z
fred_dot_u
<p>I just got into 3D printing with an Ender-3 Pro. The test dog printed great, some custom small/thin objects printed good, and now I tried my first big object.</p>
<p>Designed in Tinkercad (<a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1JZRKfOQHxr" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link to my (updated) design</a>), exported to .stl, sliced and printed using Cura 4.5.0 with the default 0.2 mm profile (3 layers wall thickness) and 100% infill (for strength), with the extruder at 200 °C and bed at 50 °C. Ambient temperature had been 25-ish °C.</p>
<p>The filament is a brand-new Spectrum Premium PLA (Arctic White). On its box it says it prints at 185-215 °C.</p>
<p>So I got this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Z76pt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Z76pt.jpg" alt="On the magnetic bed (front)" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/7oAAI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/7oAAI.jpg" alt="On the magnetic bed (back)" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/xjdhi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/xjdhi.jpg" alt="One leg - lower layer view" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/LY4Li.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/LY4Li.jpg" alt="One leg - side view" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/3lLI8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/3lLI8.jpg" alt="Other leg - side view" /></a></p>
<p>The top (thinner) sections look OK-ish (there are some visible lines, but meh), but the transition from the bottom sections (thick) to the top has terrible layer separation and warping problems. One side of the base is actually barely holding together when I'm holding it. There is also a smaller problem mid-way at that side of the base, but it's not catastrophic.</p>
<ol>
<li>Why did that happen? What did I do wrong? How can I print it again and get it nice and strong?</li>
</ol>
<p><s>2) I have a handheld &quot;3D print pen&quot;. If I use it to fill the gaps manually, how strong will the part be? The part is meant to &quot;hug&quot; the iPad charging port, so that you can hold the iPad in the bed while charging, without pressing the cable on your body and damaging it.</s> nvm that</p>
<hr />
<p>Using wall thickness of 4, layer height 0.16 mm, 30% infill and 205 °C extruder, this is my (successful) result.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/518RF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/518RF.jpg" alt="Successful result on the magnetic bed" /></a>
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/b3BDb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/b3BDb.jpg" alt="Successful result in action" /></a></p>
<hr />
<p>I also repaired that broken part. Did it for the aesthetics, but it feels quite strong.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/6t2Zb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/6t2Zb.jpg" alt="Repaired with 3D pen" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-04-24T02:04:27.693Z
Good deal on the successful print!
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
<creality-ender-3><adhesion><infill><warping>
Ender-3 Pro - PLA mid-layer warping (layer separation) - salvageable?
Stratubas
# Ender-3 Pro - PLA mid-layer warping (layer separation) - salvageable?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-04-23)

I just got into 3D printing with an Ender-3 Pro. The test dog printed great, some custom small/thin objects printed good, and now I tried my first big object.

Designed in Tinkercad ([link to my (updated) design](https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1JZRKfOQHxr)), exported to .stl, sliced and printed using Cura 4.5.0 with the default 0.2 mm profile (3 layers wall thickness) and 100% infill (for strength), with the extruder at 200 °C and bed at 50 °C. Ambient temperature had been 25-ish °C.

The filament is a brand-new Spectrum Premium PLA (Arctic White). On its box it says it prints at 185-215 °C.

So I got this:

[![On the magnetic bed (front)](https://i.sstatic.net/Z76pt.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/Z76pt.jpg)

[![On the magnetic bed (back)](https://i.sstatic.net/7oAAI.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/7oAAI.jpg)

[![One leg - lower layer view](https://i.sstatic.net/xjdhi.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/xjdhi.jpg)

[![One leg - side view](https://i.sstatic.net/LY4Li.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/LY4Li.jpg)

[![Other leg - side view](https://i.sstatic.net/3lLI8.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/3lLI8.jpg)

The top (thinner) sections look OK-ish (there are some visible lines, but meh), but the transition from the bottom sections (thick) to the top has terrible layer separation and warping problems. One side of the base is actually barely holding together when I'm holding it. There is also a smaller problem mid-way at that side of the base, but it's not catastrophic.

1. Why did that happen? What did I do wrong? How can I print it again and get it nice and strong?

~~2) I have a handheld "3D print pen". If I use it to fill the gaps manually, how strong will the part be? The part is meant to "hug" the iPad charging port, so that you can hold the iPad in the bed while charging, without pressing the cable on your body and damaging it.~~ nvm that

---

Using wall thickness of 4, layer height 0.16 mm, 30% infill and 205 °C extruder, this is my (successful) result.

[![Successful result on the magnetic bed](https://i.sstatic.net/518RF.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/518RF.jpg)
[![Successful result in action](https://i.sstatic.net/b3BDb.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/b3BDb.jpg)

---

I also repaired that broken part. Did it for the aesthetics, but it feels quite strong.

[![Repaired with 3D pen](https://i.sstatic.net/6t2Zb.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/6t2Zb.jpg)

**Tags:** creality-ender-3, adhesion, infill, warping

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Good deal on the successful print!  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2020-04-23. Score: 5 | Accepted answer

One hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger than lower values. By having such a high infill figure, the forces on the model as it cools are magnified and not in a particularly good manner.

Consider that you could use twenty to thirty percent infill to get the strength you require for this application, saving filament and time for the print. You've not noted how many wall layers used, but for increased strength, four to five would make for a very strong model.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Thanks! There's a "wall line count" setting, I'm assuming this is what you mean "how many layers". The default (which I used) is 3. If increasing wall layers count increases strength, how is that different from infill? If I use 10 wall layers, for example, so that the whole mass is "walls", wouldn't that be the same result as using 100% infill?  
> **username_1**: @username_0 - Yes, technically it is true you could increase the wall line count to get to this, but rarely ever would come into play. One of the problems with 100% infill is you are retaining a LOT of heat within the print itself. Because of this, it isn't able to cool correctly or quickly enough to setup. It doesn't surprise me your print pulled apart. What I'm surprised about is it didn't pull apart more. Using a 30% infill will most likely cure your ills ... you could probably go down to 20% and still get the same strength and rigidity. Way more than what you need, IMHO.  
> **username_4**: @username_1: Not only are you retaining heat, but if the extrusion is even slightly over the nominal amount of material desired, at 100% infill there's **nowhere for the excess to go** and it will necessarily exert forces that warp your print (usually even causing slop to extend upward and collide with the nozzle, resulting in the print getting knocked off the bed).  

---

### Answer by username_2 on 2020-04-23. Score: 0

The reason for this sort of error might be either
1) a clogged nozzel, [try doing this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bg4sOaSvimY) 
2) disturbed bed level,[resolve this issue](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL3Gmy4hh3Y) 
3) poor filament quality,


---

