<p>I use the Prusa Slicer on a Tronxy XY-2 pro which I believe uses RepRap firmware. I believe it uses RepRap firmware because I had to input it into the Prusa Slicer initialization questions, but I'm not certain that it is correct.</p>
<p>I tried three ways, none of them work.</p>
<ol>
<li><p><code>M117 L0 E0</code> from <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOpZTGfFv1I" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Embedding a Nut into your 3D Print</a> and nothing happens, it chains the G1 movement steps flawlessly.</p>
</li>
<li><p><code>M600</code> nothing happens either. From <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF1SdIR-Kow" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Embedded Magnets Thanks to Flipping Normals!</a></p>
</li>
<li><p>Using this code</p>
<pre><code> G1 X10.000 Y200.000 E0
 M1
 M105
</code></pre>
<p>and the nozzle does a micro stab into the plastic, get stuck, struggles for a few seconds, then continue the printing.  Also from <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF1SdIR-Kow" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Embedded Magnets Thanks to Flipping Normals!</a>.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>They produce no feedback at all on the printer GUI asking me somehow to resume the print. It keeps displaying real time temperature and estimated time remaining as if there was no pause in the process.</p>
<p>Here is the G-code of the file I trying to print <a href="https://gofile.io/d/OiM8dz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">test_inserting_nuts_on_the_fly.gcode</a>. You guys can visualize it at least with the slicer Simplify3D but it's not useful to this problem I guess. The pause has to happen before drawing the 50<sup>th</sup> layer, which corresponds to Z height of 10.15 mm on my piece.</p>
<p>What G-code instructions should I insert? Does this type of method work with your machines? It's a tiny test piece about 15x15x15 mm</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-05T14:24:52.693Z
The XY-2's firmware (Chitu) is proprietary. The following article may be helpful: http://www.customize-3d.com/chitu-g-code-explained.html
Mick
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-05T14:27:01.443Z
Another (later) article: http://www.customize-3d.net/comments/chitu-g-code-explained.html?start=20
Mick
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-05T14:27:59.903Z
You can also put Marlin on the board since a few weeks ago, a much, much better firmware, which will also support things like M600.
towe
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-05T17:58:30.817Z
Have you tried G4 or M0?
Davo
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-05T23:43:17.403Z
Thanks for editing my post, and for the tronxy commands @ Mick, I'll test the go home `M8029 I3` in the next hour. @towe do you have tutorial references for flashing the board ? Will it change the user GUI ? @Davo not yet, but can you tell me to which of the table firmware the tronxys belong in here please ? https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M4:_Spindle_On.2C_Counter-Clockwise_.28CNC_specific.29
noutozo
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-06T06:19:03.847Z
This is the best one I've found yet, maybe Google Translate can help:
https://drucktipps3d.de/forum/topic/tutorial-tronxy-x5sa-von-chitu-auf-marlin/
Yes it'll change to GUI to the standard Marlin LCD GUI.
towe
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-06T11:58:10.297Z
@noutozo Sorry, I'm not familiar with the Tronxy in particular, but most G- and M-codes below 100 are pretty common across platforms.
Davo
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-17T18:18:54.790Z
The command did not work, so I flashed it to Marlin as in here https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14269/roll-back-from-marlin-2-0-to-manufacturer-closed-source-firmware, but now the color/classical marlin2.0 UI is far worse than the closed-source (e.g no Z offset manual setting, nor STL thumbnails on the LCD screen, cutted filenames, etc.) and can't manage to get the LVGL version working. I'm trying to get back to the initial firmware for non-exotic printings...
noutozo
<prusa-i3><g-code><slicing><slic3r><reprap>
Can't manage to force my print to standby while I insert a nut - Prusa Slicer and Tronxy XY2 pro
noutozo
# Can't manage to force my print to standby while I insert a nut - Prusa Slicer and Tronxy XY2 pro

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-08-05)

I use the Prusa Slicer on a Tronxy XY-2 pro which I believe uses RepRap firmware. I believe it uses RepRap firmware because I had to input it into the Prusa Slicer initialization questions, but I'm not certain that it is correct.

I tried three ways, none of them work.

1. `M117 L0 E0` from [Embedding a Nut into your 3D Print](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOpZTGfFv1I) and nothing happens, it chains the G1 movement steps flawlessly.
2. `M600` nothing happens either. From [Embedded Magnets Thanks to Flipping Normals!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF1SdIR-Kow)
3. Using this code

   ```
    G1 X10.000 Y200.000 E0
    M1
    M105

   ```

   and the nozzle does a micro stab into the plastic, get stuck, struggles for a few seconds, then continue the printing. Also from [Embedded Magnets Thanks to Flipping Normals!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF1SdIR-Kow).

They produce no feedback at all on the printer GUI asking me somehow to resume the print. It keeps displaying real time temperature and estimated time remaining as if there was no pause in the process.

Here is the G-code of the file I trying to print [test\_inserting\_nuts\_on\_the\_fly.gcode](https://gofile.io/d/OiM8dz). You guys can visualize it at least with the slicer Simplify3D but it's not useful to this problem I guess. The pause has to happen before drawing the 50th layer, which corresponds to Z height of 10.15 mm on my piece.

What G-code instructions should I insert? Does this type of method work with your machines? It's a tiny test piece about 15x15x15 mm

**Tags:** prusa-i3, g-code, slicing, slic3r, reprap

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: The XY-2's firmware (Chitu) is proprietary. The following article may be helpful: http://www.customize-3d.com/chitu-g-code-explained.html  
> **username_1**: Another (later) article: http://www.customize-3d.net/comments/chitu-g-code-explained.html?start=20  
> **username_2**: You can also put Marlin on the board since a few weeks ago, a much, much better firmware, which will also support things like M600.  
> **username_3**: Have you tried G4 or M0?  
> **username_0**: Thanks for editing my post, and for the tronxy commands @ username_1, I'll test the go home `M8029 I3` in the next hour. @username_2 do you have tutorial references for flashing the board ? Will it change the user GUI ? @username_3 not yet, but can you tell me to which of the table firmware the tronxys belong in here please ? https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M4:_Spindle_On.2C_Counter-Clockwise_.28CNC_specific.29  
> **username_2**: This is the best one I've found yet, maybe Google Translate can help: https://drucktipps3d.de/forum/topic/tutorial-tronxy-x5sa-von-chitu-auf-marlin/ Yes it'll change to GUI to the standard Marlin LCD GUI.  
> **username_3**: @username_0 Sorry, I'm not familiar with the Tronxy in particular, but most G- and M-codes below 100 are pretty common across platforms.  
> **username_0**: The command did not work, so I flashed it to Marlin as in here https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14269/roll-back-from-marlin-2-0-to-manufacturer-closed-source-firmware, but now the color/classical marlin2.0 UI is far worse than the closed-source (e.g no Z offset manual setting, nor STL thumbnails on the LCD screen, cutted filenames, etc.) and can't manage to get the LVGL version working. I'm trying to get back to the initial firmware for non-exotic printings...  

---

## 0 answers

