<p>I'd go for the easy option of using a composite setup: Acrylic lacquers themselves are very low reactive and can serve as a foundation before the UV clear coating is applied. The <a href="https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/UVresistant_nonyellowing_finish.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">acrylic lacquer itself doesn't change coloration if exposed to sunlight</a>, but the light can still pass and discolor the lithophane.</p>
<p>Your Krylon clearcoat technically <em>is</em> an acrylic paint, but to be used from a rattlecan, other chemicals are added - a whole lot as the <a href="https://www.krylon.com/document/SDS/en/US/724504013051" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSDS</a> tells us. The list of chemicals <em>besides</em> the paint in that can are <em>Acetone,</em> n-Butyl Acetate, Propane, Butane, Xylene, Ethyl 3-Ethoxypropionate, <em>Cyclohexane, Ethylbenzene</em>,
Bis(pentamethyl-4-piperidyl)sebacate. Three simple chemicals I put in italics - they are very good solvents that easily react with the resin print. Propane and Butane create the pressure in the rattle can, the other four chemicals make up the actual lacquer. I have observed the mix of Acetone, Cyclohexane, and Ethylbentene (with possibly others) softening PLA, so it is totally possible that they react unfavorably with your resin print. As a result, I suggest using a brush or roller to apply acrylic paint from a can (not spraycan!)</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-12-07T15:55:53.920Z
2020-12-07T15:55:53.920Z
Trish
<p>I'm looking to put a UV-blocking clear coating on some of my resin 3D prints.</p>
<p>I've tried <a href="https://www.krylon.ca/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">krylon UV-Resistant Clear Coating</a> but it seemed to react with my print making it softer and easy to break. I'm trying to coat a thin Lithophane so I would rather not make it any softer.</p>
<p>Are there any better options for a UV-blocking clear coat for resin 3D prints?</p>
<p>Printer used: AnyCube Photon (dlp) <br>
Resin used for Print: <a href="https://www.amazon.ca/ELEGOO-UV-Curing-Standard-Photopolymer-Printing/dp/B07JLWPRZJ?ref_=ast_sto_dp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Rapid Resin</a> <br>
Lithophane maker: <a href="https://lithophanemaker.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">lithophanemaker</a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-12-03T07:03:01.427Z
try clear nail polish, maybe UV curing polish at that.
dandavis
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-12-06T03:58:08.587Z
nail polish seems like a good option for clear coating but is it UV blocking? I feel like UV curing polish would not necessarily mean be UV blocking.
Jeff
<post-processing><resin><uv-printer>
Clear coating resin 3D prints
Jeff
# Clear coating resin 3D prints

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-12-03)

I'm looking to put a UV-blocking clear coating on some of my resin 3D prints.

I've tried [krylon UV-Resistant Clear Coating](https://www.krylon.ca/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/) but it seemed to react with my print making it softer and easy to break. I'm trying to coat a thin Lithophane so I would rather not make it any softer.

Are there any better options for a UV-blocking clear coat for resin 3D prints?

Printer used: AnyCube Photon (dlp)   
Resin used for Print: [ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Rapid Resin](https://www.amazon.ca/ELEGOO-UV-Curing-Standard-Photopolymer-Printing/dp/B07JLWPRZJ?ref_=ast_sto_dp)   
Lithophane maker: [lithophanemaker](https://lithophanemaker.com/)

**Tags:** post-processing, resin, uv-printer

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: try clear nail polish, maybe UV curing polish at that.  
> **username_0**: nail polish seems like a good option for clear coating but is it UV blocking? I feel like UV curing polish would not necessarily mean be UV blocking.  

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2020-12-07. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

I'd go for the easy option of using a composite setup: Acrylic lacquers themselves are very low reactive and can serve as a foundation before the UV clear coating is applied. The [acrylic lacquer itself doesn't change coloration if exposed to sunlight](https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/UVresistant_nonyellowing_finish.html), but the light can still pass and discolor the lithophane.

Your Krylon clearcoat technically *is* an acrylic paint, but to be used from a rattlecan, other chemicals are added - a whole lot as the [MSDS](https://www.krylon.com/document/SDS/en/US/724504013051) tells us. The list of chemicals *besides* the paint in that can are *Acetone,* n-Butyl Acetate, Propane, Butane, Xylene, Ethyl 3-Ethoxypropionate, *Cyclohexane, Ethylbenzene*,
Bis(pentamethyl-4-piperidyl)sebacate. Three simple chemicals I put in italics - they are very good solvents that easily react with the resin print. Propane and Butane create the pressure in the rattle can, the other four chemicals make up the actual lacquer. I have observed the mix of Acetone, Cyclohexane, and Ethylbentene (with possibly others) softening PLA, so it is totally possible that they react unfavorably with your resin print. As a result, I suggest using a brush or roller to apply acrylic paint from a can (not spraycan!)


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