<p>When the head/nozzle assembly runs into the bed, you need to watch out for:</p>

<ul>
<li>Check for <strong>Endstop</strong> problems:

<ul>
<li>Is the <strong>switch properly wired up</strong>?</li>
<li>Is the <strong>switch working</strong>?</li>
<li>Is the <strong>switch mounted firmly</strong> to the frame and correctly adjusted?</li>
</ul></li>
<li><strong>Level the bed as level as possible</strong>; what is meant here is that the bed needs to be parallel to the X-axis, not bubble level. This ensures that the nozzle is exactly at the same distance away at every point on the build platform. You achieve this by setting the Z endstop as such that the nozzle is close to build platform with platform screws screwed in for some distance. When the endstop is firmly attached, home the printer through the menu of the printer, try adjusting the screws such that the level is everywhere the same (in between changing the location of the nozzle carriage to set the level, home the machine once in a while). Use a piece of paper for the correct distance; a slight resistance felt when dragging the paper is sufficient. Please note that it makes a difference when you level the bed cold or hot, hot is preferred.</li>
<li><strong>Slicer settings</strong>; Be sure that your slicer doesn't introduce a Z offset.</li>
</ul>

<hr>

<p><strong>EDIT</strong>:<br>
<em>With respect to the additional information, you really need to check the level of the bed, level with a hot bed and a hot nozzle (e.g. PLA temperatures of respectively 60 &deg;C/190 &deg;C). Furthermore, be sure that you get enough adhesion. Use (sanded and cleaned) tape, hairspray, glue stick or whatever trick you can find to get the filament to stick well enough that it won't be picked up by the nozzle and dragged around. For me personally printing directly on the aluminium bed with 3DLAC (sort of super strong hairspray) or on glass works best, I'm not a fan of tape.</em></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-07-19T19:58:46.993Z
2018-07-26T18:17:41.877Z
2018-07-26T18:17:41.877Z
0scar
<p>I am using a Prusa i3 with Marlin Firmware. </p>

<p>All the components of my 3D printer working fine. I have a problem with my Z-axis, it comes down and get pressed by the bed. I have tried adjusting the endstop switch and calibrated the Z-axis still Z-axis comes down while printing. </p>

<p><strong>edit</strong>: <em>- additional information -</em><br>
<em>While printing the first layer is printing okay, but while filling the inner layer and continue with the next layers the nozzle actually drags and pressed the print.</em></p>

<p>Can anyone explain why this happens?</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-07-19T19:41:02.997Z
Hi Midhun and welcome to SE.3DPrinting! This a little too less information to work with. E.g. does the nozzle hit only a part of the bed, like a corner, or is it digging into the whole bed?
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-07-19T20:01:58.680Z
the Prusa i3 is a large family of printers - is it a Mk1, 2 or 3 or a knockoff?
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-07-21T18:56:58.867Z
Thankyou for your reply,actually while printing the first layer is printing ok, but while filling the inner layer and continue with the next layers the nozzle actually drags and pressed  the print. Thi s makes the print more worse.Can you please suggest me any solution
Midhun Kachappilly
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-07-26T17:23:31.027Z
In order to get the attention of people you should add the @ followed by the username. This will send a notification to that user. I just now found your update. This extra information should preferably be inserted into your question, comments are used for information requests.
0scar
<prusa-i3><marlin><z-axis><endstop>
Z-axis comes down and presses the bed while printing
Midhun Kachappilly
# Z-axis comes down and presses the bed while printing

(Asked by: username_0 on 2018-07-19)

I am using a Prusa i3 with Marlin Firmware.

All the components of my 3D printer working fine. I have a problem with my Z-axis, it comes down and get pressed by the bed. I have tried adjusting the endstop switch and calibrated the Z-axis still Z-axis comes down while printing.

**edit**: *- additional information -*  
*While printing the first layer is printing okay, but while filling the inner layer and continue with the next layers the nozzle actually drags and pressed the print.*

Can anyone explain why this happens?

**Tags:** prusa-i3, marlin, z-axis, endstop

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Hi username_0 and welcome to SE.3DPrinting! This a little too less information to work with. E.g. does the nozzle hit only a part of the bed, like a corner, or is it digging into the whole bed?  
> **username_2**: the Prusa i3 is a large family of printers - is it a Mk1, 2 or 3 or a knockoff?  
> **username_0**: Thankyou for your reply,actually while printing the first layer is printing ok, but while filling the inner layer and continue with the next layers the nozzle actually drags and pressed  the print. Thi s makes the print more worse.Can you please suggest me any solution  
> **username_1**: In order to get the attention of people you should add the @ followed by the username. This will send a notification to that user. I just now found your update. This extra information should preferably be inserted into your question, comments are used for information requests.  

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2018-07-19. Score: 4

When the head/nozzle assembly runs into the bed, you need to watch out for:

* Check for **Endstop** problems:
  + Is the **switch properly wired up**?
  + Is the **switch working**?
  + Is the **switch mounted firmly** to the frame and correctly adjusted?
* **Level the bed as level as possible**; what is meant here is that the bed needs to be parallel to the X-axis, not bubble level. This ensures that the nozzle is exactly at the same distance away at every point on the build platform. You achieve this by setting the Z endstop as such that the nozzle is close to build platform with platform screws screwed in for some distance. When the endstop is firmly attached, home the printer through the menu of the printer, try adjusting the screws such that the level is everywhere the same (in between changing the location of the nozzle carriage to set the level, home the machine once in a while). Use a piece of paper for the correct distance; a slight resistance felt when dragging the paper is sufficient. Please note that it makes a difference when you level the bed cold or hot, hot is preferred.
* **Slicer settings**; Be sure that your slicer doesn't introduce a Z offset.

---

**EDIT**:  
*With respect to the additional information, you really need to check the level of the bed, level with a hot bed and a hot nozzle (e.g. PLA temperatures of respectively 60 °C/190 °C). Furthermore, be sure that you get enough adhesion. Use (sanded and cleaned) tape, hairspray, glue stick or whatever trick you can find to get the filament to stick well enough that it won't be picked up by the nozzle and dragged around. For me personally printing directly on the aluminium bed with 3DLAC (sort of super strong hairspray) or on glass works best, I'm not a fan of tape.*


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