<p>You problem clearly under extrude which mean the plastic not flow as much as it should be.
I face this problem recently here my step to solve.</p>

<ol>
<li>Tune e step (do this first)</li>
<li>Add more temp. to nozzle (so plastic will melt and flow faster)</li>
<li>Slow down print speed.</li>
<li>Change nozzle and clean whole hotend.</li>
</ol>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-06-15T09:30:57.547Z
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE I think it difference scenario here.
E_step is relate to G-code  to determine how many pulse to achieve corresponding distant so we can tune with G-code command. If you adjust flow multiplier in slicer, it will affect only G-code outout from slicer either if you adjust on UI it will not affect when you print with SD Card. For conclusion, tune E-Step with G-Code and use flow multiplier for manual fine-tune.
M lab
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-05T05:08:36.563Z
Hi! Thank you for answer. I have several q to you. "e" step did you mean extruder Flow percent? I am already print at 200 celsius, I recently print at 180 and it sems to be better with PLA. Cleaning Hot end from dust?
Marat Zakirov
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-05T08:46:50.270Z
It’s extruder step per milliliter calibration.
M lab
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-05T08:48:47.853Z
Some plastic just burn out and become a solid material that block the nozzle.
M lab
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-05T09:54:52.997Z
I cleatly see that walls are definitly ok, how it is possible to make sily infill and pretty well walls?
Marat Zakirov
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-05T09:58:33.977Z
I don’t know why last time I face this problem I’ve try everything, still not working then I change nozzle it suddenly work me be nozzle just got partial clogging with allow low rate flow.
M lab
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-05T09:59:44.617Z
The infill eventually have higher print speed. Try to fix it step by step as my answer might help.
M lab
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-05T22:39:28.227Z
@MaratZakirov Your walls don't look okay! Clearly under extruded.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-06-04T03:42:49.343Z
"Tune the e step" is always wrong. Don't do that.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-06-04T12:36:04.873Z
@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE why? the E steps are not like the XYZ steps, they need calibration because the hobbed bolt penetrates differently in different materials and you need to compensate for the different effective bolt radius.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-06-04T12:39:47.153Z
That's why you use a per material flow modifier rather than an esteps change that's a function of both the machine and the material.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-09T11:55:38.753Z
I changed extruder block to Titan it somehow helped do not sure if that eliminated this issue totally. So I definitly add 5) Change extruder block to Titan
Marat Zakirov
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-05T01:01:29.420Z
2020-05-05T01:01:29.420Z
M lab
<p>I am a new to 3D printing, somehow, the infill of my print compiled by Cura 4.5 is weak. I print with generic PLA (FD plast) on 200 °C. See image below:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/mH9N3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/mH9N3.jpg" alt="PLA printed part with failed infill" /></a></p>
<p>Print details: I have a Zonestar Z6FB which I use together with Cura 4.5. I print in PLA at 200 °C (Cura default for PLA). The print bed is set to 60 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100 %. The layer height I set to 0.1 mm, the line width (wall thikness 0.8 mm?) from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 60 mm/s for everything. My retraction is unknown.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-05-04T21:25:06.587Z
It looks like the printer is under extruding, the 2 walls barely touch, this can also lead to the infill pattern you see. You could try to [calibrate the extruder](/q/6483/). You can also try printing a little slower.
0scar
<infill>
Infill not printing well. What I am doing wrong?
Marat Zakirov
# Infill not printing well. What I am doing wrong?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-05-04)

I am a new to 3D printing, somehow, the infill of my print compiled by Cura 4.5 is weak. I print with generic PLA (FD plast) on 200 °C. See image below:

[![PLA printed part with failed infill](https://i.sstatic.net/mH9N3.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/mH9N3.jpg)

Print details: I have a Zonestar Z6FB which I use together with Cura 4.5. I print in PLA at 200 °C (Cura default for PLA). The print bed is set to 60 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100 %. The layer height I set to 0.1 mm, the line width (wall thikness 0.8 mm?) from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 60 mm/s for everything. My retraction is unknown.

**Tags:** infill

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: It looks like the printer is under extruding, the 2 walls barely touch, this can also lead to the infill pattern you see. You could try to [calibrate the extruder](/q/6483/). You can also try printing a little slower.  

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2020-05-05. Score: 1

You problem clearly under extrude which mean the plastic not flow as much as it should be.
I face this problem recently here my step to solve.

1. Tune e step (do this first)
2. Add more temp. to nozzle (so plastic will melt and flow faster)
3. Slow down print speed.
4. Change nozzle and clean whole hotend.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Hi! Thank you for answer. I have several q to you. "e" step did you mean extruder Flow percent? I am already print at 200 celsius, I recently print at 180 and it sems to be better with PLA. Cleaning Hot end from dust?  
> **username_2**: It’s extruder step per milliliter calibration.  
> **username_2**: Some plastic just burn out and become a solid material that block the nozzle.  
> **username_0**: I cleatly see that walls are definitly ok, how it is possible to make sily infill and pretty well walls?  
> **username_2**: I don’t know why last time I face this problem I’ve try everything, still not working then I change nozzle it suddenly work me be nozzle just got partial clogging with allow low rate flow.  
> **username_2**: The infill eventually have higher print speed. Try to fix it step by step as my answer might help.  
> **username_1**: @username_0 Your walls don't look okay! Clearly under extruded.  
> **username_3**: "Tune the e step" is always wrong. Don't do that.  
> **username_4**: @username_3 why? the E steps are not like the XYZ steps, they need calibration because the hobbed bolt penetrates differently in different materials and you need to compensate for the different effective bolt radius.  
> **username_3**: That's why you use a per material flow modifier rather than an esteps change that's a function of both the machine and the material.  
> **username_2**: @username_3 I think it difference scenario here. E_step is relate to G-code  to determine how many pulse to achieve corresponding distant so we can tune with G-code command. If you adjust flow multiplier in slicer, it will affect only G-code outout from slicer either if you adjust on UI it will not affect when you print with SD Card. For conclusion, tune E-Step with G-Code and use flow multiplier for manual fine-tune.  
> **username_0**: I changed extruder block to Titan it somehow helped do not sure if that eliminated this issue totally. So I definitly add 5) Change extruder block to Titan  

---

