<h2>Within reason, yes</h2>
<p>If you can't put the printer down 100 % even, that's ok. The most crucial thing is, that during the whole operation the resin level in the printer does never get over the edge of the print basin and that at the lowest level, everything is covered still. It's still better to settle the printer as even as possible.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-12T17:11:54.730Z
2022-04-12T17:11:54.730Z
Trish
<p>I am using an Elegoo Saturn S and have leveled the build plate per manufacturer's instructions a handful of times. However, I have yet to get a successful print except for the rook model that came with the printer and a couple <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707289" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Validation Matrix</a> prints, which are pretty thin. I've switched resins and am finding more luck with grey vs white. White always resulted in delamination at some point early in the print and supports not printing (even with thicker supports). Grey is printing alright for the most part but most of the raft falls off the build plate. There's just enough adhesion that the print does not outright fail (surprisingly) but a good 60%-70% of the raft is hanging loose. I had one print that could have finished and the current print is about half loose</p>
<p>I assume that this is a leveling issue, but as I said, I've leveled the bed numerous times. I bought a new build plate (to counteract another problem) and I've recently changed the FEP. It wasn't until this change and switching to grey resin that I've had any remote success. One thing I've noticed is that the resin pools more to the left side suggesting the work area is not level. Would this matter? I figured that if the build plate is level with the LCD, it shouldn't matter if everything is off. The angle seems to be about 2 or 3 degrees.</p>
<p>My current settings:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Bottom Layers:</strong> 5</li>
<li><strong>Bottom Exposure:</strong> 30 s (white resin adheres too well almost for bottom)</li>
<li><strong>Bottom Lift:</strong> 5 mm</li>
<li><strong>Normal Exposure:</strong> 2.5 or 3 s (monochrome LCD)</li>
<li><strong>Normal Lift:</strong> 4 mm</li>
<li><strong>Retract Speed:</strong> 70 mm/m (for both bottom and normal)</li>
<li><strong>Layer Thickness:</strong> 0.05 mm</li>
</ul>
<p>Originally sliced with ChituBox, but <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19222/chitubox-stopped-slicing-files-correctly">that stopped working</a> for some reason. Slicing with Lychee now.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-11T15:31:55.260Z
You mean the printer is sitting not parallel to the ground?
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-12T16:06:16.890Z
@Trish Correct. I've tried shimming the feet so it's more level but it's still pretty uneven. As far as I can tell the build plate is level with the LCD. It's the whole printer unit that is leaning.
Lux Claridge
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-14T17:28:33.720Z
You have a 3D printer. Print some shims to level the printer. They don't have to be perfect, just functional.
FreeMan
<bed-leveling><adhesion><resin><elegoo-saturn>
Does an uneven resin printer matter if the build plate is level with LCD?
Lux Claridge
# Does an uneven resin printer matter if the build plate is level with LCD?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2022-04-10)

I am using an Elegoo Saturn S and have leveled the build plate per manufacturer's instructions a handful of times. However, I have yet to get a successful print except for the rook model that came with the printer and a couple [Validation Matrix](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707289) prints, which are pretty thin. I've switched resins and am finding more luck with grey vs white. White always resulted in delamination at some point early in the print and supports not printing (even with thicker supports). Grey is printing alright for the most part but most of the raft falls off the build plate. There's just enough adhesion that the print does not outright fail (surprisingly) but a good 60%-70% of the raft is hanging loose. I had one print that could have finished and the current print is about half loose

I assume that this is a leveling issue, but as I said, I've leveled the bed numerous times. I bought a new build plate (to counteract another problem) and I've recently changed the FEP. It wasn't until this change and switching to grey resin that I've had any remote success. One thing I've noticed is that the resin pools more to the left side suggesting the work area is not level. Would this matter? I figured that if the build plate is level with the LCD, it shouldn't matter if everything is off. The angle seems to be about 2 or 3 degrees.

My current settings:

* **Bottom Layers:** 5
* **Bottom Exposure:** 30 s (white resin adheres too well almost for bottom)
* **Bottom Lift:** 5 mm
* **Normal Exposure:** 2.5 or 3 s (monochrome LCD)
* **Normal Lift:** 4 mm
* **Retract Speed:** 70 mm/m (for both bottom and normal)
* **Layer Thickness:** 0.05 mm

Originally sliced with ChituBox, but [that stopped working](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19222/chitubox-stopped-slicing-files-correctly) for some reason. Slicing with Lychee now.

**Tags:** bed-leveling, adhesion, resin, elegoo-saturn

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: You mean the printer is sitting not parallel to the ground?  
> **username_0**: @username_1 Correct. I've tried shimming the feet so it's more level but it's still pretty uneven. As far as I can tell the build plate is level with the LCD. It's the whole printer unit that is leaning.  
> **username_2**: You have a 3D printer. Print some shims to level the printer. They don't have to be perfect, just functional.  

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2022-04-12. Score: 0 | Accepted answer

## Within reason, yes

If you can't put the printer down 100 % even, that's ok. The most crucial thing is, that during the whole operation the resin level in the printer does never get over the edge of the print basin and that at the lowest level, everything is covered still. It's still better to settle the printer as even as possible.


---

