<p>Your nozzle may have caught up with the print somehow pushing the binder clip off by moving the glass slate. </p>

<p>Apparently this is a more <a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/raise3d-n2-plus-glass-bed-not-secure" rel="nofollow noreferrer">common</a> problem. Try adding more binder clips, this has been reported to help preventing shifting.</p>

<p>Maybe with some ingenuity you could develop your own fastening system depending on the bed. Alternatively, you could make the underside of the glass a little sticky so that it does not move easily (a little PVA based glue maybe or hairspray, I've done that with my mouse mat with 3DLAC :) which is now not slipping from the desk).</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-06-05T06:25:13.210Z
2018-06-05T06:32:20.830Z
2018-06-05T06:32:20.830Z
0scar
<p>Before two month ago I tested double-sided tape between bed and glass plate. It's awesome and really works perfectly. No more clips, so I'm able to print to the complete area. And no more slipping. Don't use that much tape, just a little bit at the edges should be totally fine.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-06-05T14:23:04.200Z
What type of tape are you talking about?  When you say "double-sided tape" the thing I think of is clear Scotch tape, but I wonder if it would be strong enough, and if the glue would still work when heated to 60 C (around 140 F).
Mason Wheeler
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-06-05T14:25:26.630Z
I'm using this [Tesa tape](http://www.tesatape.com/wikitapia/double-sided-adhesive-tape?_ga=2.20037361.833297141.1528208632-2039909429.1528208632) in the section "The Structure of Double-Sides Tapes". Works great for me, even when printing ABS @93°C.
Felix Lemke
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-06-05T14:38:00.987Z
[Here](http://www.tesa.de/buero-und-zuhause/tesa-doppelseitiges-klebeband-universal.html), exactly this tape it is, but it's german only store, I think. Can't edit my comment.
Felix Lemke
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-06-05T08:44:14.770Z
2018-06-05T08:44:14.770Z
Felix Lemke
<p>2 days into a 5-day build, I came home from work and found the build ruined because the build plate had slipped.</p>

<p>I'm using a Raise 3D N2 Plus printer, with the standard glass build plate that comes with it, attached via 4 clips: two stationary ones at the back, and two standard binder clips at the front, which shipped with the printer, which hold the glass build plate plate to the heated surface beneath.</p>

<p>The left-side clip had come off of the heated surface, remaining clipped to the top and bottom of the glass plate, and the whole thing slipped an inch or so.  I immediately canceled the build, and I can start another one, but before I do I'd like to know how this happened and what I can do to prevent it from happening again.</p>

<p>What typically causes the plate clips to come free?  Is there anything I can do about it?  Will adding more clips around the edges help?  I'd really prefer not to ruin more builds if I can help it...</p>

<build-plate>
What can cause the build plate to slip?
Mason Wheeler
# What can cause the build plate to slip?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2018-06-05)

2 days into a 5-day build, I came home from work and found the build ruined because the build plate had slipped.

I'm using a Raise 3D N2 Plus printer, with the standard glass build plate that comes with it, attached via 4 clips: two stationary ones at the back, and two standard binder clips at the front, which shipped with the printer, which hold the glass build plate plate to the heated surface beneath.

The left-side clip had come off of the heated surface, remaining clipped to the top and bottom of the glass plate, and the whole thing slipped an inch or so. I immediately canceled the build, and I can start another one, but before I do I'd like to know how this happened and what I can do to prevent it from happening again.

What typically causes the plate clips to come free? Is there anything I can do about it? Will adding more clips around the edges help? I'd really prefer not to ruin more builds if I can help it...

**Tags:** build-plate


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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2018-06-05. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

Your nozzle may have caught up with the print somehow pushing the binder clip off by moving the glass slate.

Apparently this is a more [common](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/raise3d-n2-plus-glass-bed-not-secure) problem. Try adding more binder clips, this has been reported to help preventing shifting.

Maybe with some ingenuity you could develop your own fastening system depending on the bed. Alternatively, you could make the underside of the glass a little sticky so that it does not move easily (a little PVA based glue maybe or hairspray, I've done that with my mouse mat with 3DLAC :) which is now not slipping from the desk).


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### Answer by username_2 on 2018-06-05. Score: 2

Before two month ago I tested double-sided tape between bed and glass plate. It's awesome and really works perfectly. No more clips, so I'm able to print to the complete area. And no more slipping. Don't use that much tape, just a little bit at the edges should be totally fine.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: What type of tape are you talking about?  When you say "double-sided tape" the thing I think of is clear Scotch tape, but I wonder if it would be strong enough, and if the glue would still work when heated to 60 C (around 140 F).  
> **username_2**: I'm using this [Tesa tape](http://www.tesatape.com/wikitapia/double-sided-adhesive-tape?_ga=2.20037361.833297141.1528208632-2039909429.1528208632) in the section "The Structure of Double-Sides Tapes". Works great for me, even when printing ABS @93°C.  
> **username_2**: [Here](http://www.tesa.de/buero-und-zuhause/tesa-doppelseitiges-klebeband-universal.html), exactly this tape it is, but it's german only store, I think. Can't edit my comment.  

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