<p>The manual appears to be available here, <a href="https://www.elektor.com/amfile/file/download/file/1606/product/8457/&amp;usg=AOvVaw3bQeEWg--MsnW9KbsTKc_c" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Installation Instruction_Anet A6 3D Printer - Elektor</a></p>
<p>However, according to <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480#comment-1342949" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this comment</a> from <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hard copy of the build guide?</a>, there is a mistake in the PDF of the manual, with respect to the heatbed, and as such, it is better to follow the videos:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I find it is better to use the 3 videos:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOasLyRQk3E" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D Printer Instruction--Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 1</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQzOHL_89nc" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D Printer Instruction--Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 2</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uars72RdzK8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Printer Instruction- A6 - Hot Bed Level Adjustment and Print Test</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Only errors in the videos and i believe the instuction the Hetbed
fixing plate i have build diffrently , rotated by 180 degrees
vertical, since it is better for the belt and somewhere in the video
during fixating of the end-switch and the blower he interchanged the
screws.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>However, looking at the manual, if it is to be believed, then be aware that <em>as well as</em> one connection for the extruder motor, there are two connectors <em>each</em> for <em>both</em> the extruder and the hotbed heaters:</p>
<ul>
<li>One for the separate heating elements, of the extruder and hotbed respectively, and;</li>
<li>One for the thermistor sensor (both the extruder <em>and</em> the hotbed have separate thermistors).</li>
</ul>
<p>This makes <em>five in total</em> for the extruder and the hotbed combined.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/WCBtC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Mainboard A6"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/WCBtC.jpg" alt="Mainboard A6" title="Mainboard A6" /></a></p>
<p>However, the power connections for the Extruder <em>motor</em> has four pins (in white at the top), whereas the heating elements for the hotbed and the extruder have two pins and are of a different shape (in green on the left). The sensor connections for both the extruder and the sensor have three pins (in white at the bottom), but it should be easy not to confuse them, so long as you follow the wires to check to which component they go to.</p>
<hr />
<h3>Additional points to be aware of</h3>
<p>From <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480#comment-1343762" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this comment</a> in the same thread:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I just built an A6 three weeks ago and with the videos it is really a
breeze to assemble the unit.</p>
<p>Just pay attention to the heat bed mounting plate as it is installed
bottoms up in the video. The bar connecting the outer two plates where
the heat bed is finally mounted should be below the plates, not above
as in the video.</p>
<p>Also, if you still have time, order some decent toothed belt, Igus
Drylin RJ4JP-01, and toothwheels for the Y and X belts and replace the
original pulleys, bearings, and belts before you even assemble the
unit. I just changed mine last week and it does make a hell of a
difference - with this little upgrades (cost me less than 30$ for
everything - at Amazon) you upgrade from an okay printer to a really
decent machine.</p>
<ul>
<li>The belt: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0152ZNDLK" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Meters-Timing-Pulleys-Printer/dp/B0152ZNDLK</a></li>
<li>The pulleys: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0188HW4Z0" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Bearing-Timing-3D-printers/dp/B0188HW4Z0</a></li>
<li>The bearings: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B06XPRCMJS" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS</a>
(actually, you need 8 pieces - not seven as in the images - 4 for the
Y-axis and 4 for the X-axis)</li>
</ul>
<p>The above are not the actual articles I've bought because I am from
Europe where Amazon sells in different quantities.</p>
<p>If you want to go on the safe side, grab a second power supply and two
MOSFET boards to remove the high current from the mainboard:</p>
<ul>
<li>PSU: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00D7CWSCG" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG</a>
(just as an example)</li>
<li>MOSFET: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01MY50JL3" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Expansion-Heatbed-Current/dp/B01MY50JL3</a></li>
<li>Power socket and switch: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00ME5YAPK" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Certification-Socket/dp/B00ME5YAPK</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Last recommendation: get some 3mm borosilicate glass to lay (clip)
over the heatbed. This will make the prints stick better and also
provide a perfectly flat surface for the builds (still, you'll need to
do the levelling)</p>
<p>Glass:
<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00QQ5Q3BI" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Printer-Tempered-Borosilicate-2132003mm/dp/B00QQ5Q3BI</a></p>
<p>When assembling the heatbed mount, pay lots of attention to the 16
screws. Tighten them one by one diagonally and move the bed around. If
the bed feels stuck, loosen the last screws and shift the mounts
around a bit. The lighter this mount moves, the better your prints
will be.</p>
<p>One thing that you must be aware: This printer is a great little unit,
but it needs love, dedication and plenty upgrades. Out of the box it
works okay, but with the upgrades it becomes a really good unit.</p>
</blockquote>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-08-31T07:38:52.200Z
2019-08-31T08:03:22.253Z
2020-06-18T08:29:41.667Z
Greenonline
<p>Thanx for the help, got it running now.
The board in the pic is the older version, my problem was the wires for the extruder had been cut really short for some reason and not labled.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-09-01T17:24:55.810Z
This sounds like a comment to Greenonline's answer.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-09-01T17:47:14.820Z
Ok, good.Glad you got it sorted. Please mark this (your answer) as the accepted answer (using the tick button next to the answer), in order to remove your question from the unanswered question list, thanks As a beta site we need to keep our queues short. It would still be nice to see a photo of your (new version) board, and the short leads, in case anyone else has the same problems as you, at a later date. The more information you provide, the more useful your answer becomes to the community in general.
Greenonline
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-09-01T15:35:05.240Z
2019-09-01T15:35:05.240Z
scott9951
<p>I've just built my son's A6 and have connected all cables apart from the last power cables. The mainboard says hotbed line and extruder line but the cable says heatbed.</p>

<p>The cables are two red which are crimped together and two black crimped together.</p>

<p>All of the videos online show a different mainboard and connections.
There are more connections than cables because the wires are crimped.</p>

<p>I can't get my head around which wires go where, any ideas?</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-08-31T07:29:21.813Z
Hi and welcome to SE.3DP. It sounds a bit confusing, but don't give up hope. Some photos might help us understand the issue better, and a schematic, possibly. Where do the two crimped cables go to? What component? If they both come from the hotbed/heatbed (it is the same thing), then plug them into the mainboard's hotbed pins. You also say that the extruder pins on the mainboard aren't connected. In that case, where do the wires from the extruder go to? What pins have you plugged the extruder into? Follow the wires carefully, and it should all make sense.
Greenonline
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-08-31T11:56:17.050Z
If, as you say, the mainboard and connections look different to the manual and the videos, then maybe you have bought a third party clone. Nevertheless, it shouldn't differ greatly. Please edit your question and add some close up photos of the board and connections - otherwise the question may get closed by the community for being unclear as to what you are asking..
Greenonline
<printer-building><anet-a6>
Anet A6 assembly problem - remaining power cables don't match instructions
scott9951
# Anet A6 assembly problem - remaining power cables don't match instructions

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-08-30)

I've just built my son's A6 and have connected all cables apart from the last power cables. The mainboard says hotbed line and extruder line but the cable says heatbed.

The cables are two red which are crimped together and two black crimped together.

All of the videos online show a different mainboard and connections.
There are more connections than cables because the wires are crimped.

I can't get my head around which wires go where, any ideas?

**Tags:** printer-building, anet-a6

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Hi and welcome to SE.3DP. It sounds a bit confusing, but don't give up hope. Some photos might help us understand the issue better, and a schematic, possibly. Where do the two crimped cables go to? What component? If they both come from the hotbed/heatbed (it is the same thing), then plug them into the mainboard's hotbed pins. You also say that the extruder pins on the mainboard aren't connected. In that case, where do the wires from the extruder go to? What pins have you plugged the extruder into? Follow the wires carefully, and it should all make sense.  
> **username_1**: If, as you say, the mainboard and connections look different to the manual and the videos, then maybe you have bought a third party clone. Nevertheless, it shouldn't differ greatly. Please edit your question and add some close up photos of the board and connections - otherwise the question may get closed by the community for being unclear as to what you are asking..  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2019-08-31. Score: 2

The manual appears to be available here, [Installation Instruction\_Anet A6 3D Printer - Elektor](https://www.elektor.com/amfile/file/download/file/1606/product/8457/&usg=AOvVaw3bQeEWg--MsnW9KbsTKc_c)

However, according to [this comment](https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480#comment-1342949) from [Hard copy of the build guide?](https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480), there is a mistake in the PDF of the manual, with respect to the heatbed, and as such, it is better to follow the videos:

> I find it is better to use the 3 videos:
>
> * [3D Printer Instruction--Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOasLyRQk3E)
> * [3D Printer Instruction--Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 2](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQzOHL_89nc)
> * [Printer Instruction- A6 - Hot Bed Level Adjustment and Print Test](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uars72RdzK8)
>
> Only errors in the videos and i believe the instuction the Hetbed
> fixing plate i have build diffrently , rotated by 180 degrees
> vertical, since it is better for the belt and somewhere in the video
> during fixating of the end-switch and the blower he interchanged the
> screws.

However, looking at the manual, if it is to be believed, then be aware that *as well as* one connection for the extruder motor, there are two connectors *each* for *both* the extruder and the hotbed heaters:

* One for the separate heating elements, of the extruder and hotbed respectively, and;
* One for the thermistor sensor (both the extruder *and* the hotbed have separate thermistors).

This makes *five in total* for the extruder and the hotbed combined.

[![Mainboard A6](https://i.sstatic.net/WCBtC.jpg "Mainboard A6")](https://i.sstatic.net/WCBtC.jpg "Mainboard A6")

However, the power connections for the Extruder *motor* has four pins (in white at the top), whereas the heating elements for the hotbed and the extruder have two pins and are of a different shape (in green on the left). The sensor connections for both the extruder and the sensor have three pins (in white at the bottom), but it should be easy not to confuse them, so long as you follow the wires to check to which component they go to.

---

### Additional points to be aware of

From [this comment](https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480#comment-1343762) in the same thread:

> I just built an A6 three weeks ago and with the videos it is really a
> breeze to assemble the unit.
>
> Just pay attention to the heat bed mounting plate as it is installed
> bottoms up in the video. The bar connecting the outer two plates where
> the heat bed is finally mounted should be below the plates, not above
> as in the video.
>
> Also, if you still have time, order some decent toothed belt, Igus
> Drylin RJ4JP-01, and toothwheels for the Y and X belts and replace the
> original pulleys, bearings, and belts before you even assemble the
> unit. I just changed mine last week and it does make a hell of a
> difference - with this little upgrades (cost me less than 30$ for
> everything - at Amazon) you upgrade from an okay printer to a really
> decent machine.
>
> * The belt: [https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Meters-Timing-Pulleys-Printer/dp/B0152ZNDLK](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0152ZNDLK)
> * The pulleys: [https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Bearing-Timing-3D-printers/dp/B0188HW4Z0](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0188HW4Z0)
> * The bearings: [https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B06XPRCMJS)
>   (actually, you need 8 pieces - not seven as in the images - 4 for the
>   Y-axis and 4 for the X-axis)
>
> The above are not the actual articles I've bought because I am from
> Europe where Amazon sells in different quantities.
>
> If you want to go on the safe side, grab a second power supply and two
> MOSFET boards to remove the high current from the mainboard:
>
> * PSU: [https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00D7CWSCG)
>   (just as an example)
> * MOSFET: [https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Expansion-Heatbed-Current/dp/B01MY50JL3](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01MY50JL3)
> * Power socket and switch: [https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Certification-Socket/dp/B00ME5YAPK](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00ME5YAPK)
>
> Last recommendation: get some 3mm borosilicate glass to lay (clip)
> over the heatbed. This will make the prints stick better and also
> provide a perfectly flat surface for the builds (still, you'll need to
> do the levelling)
>
> Glass:
> [https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Printer-Tempered-Borosilicate-2132003mm/dp/B00QQ5Q3BI](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00QQ5Q3BI)
>
> When assembling the heatbed mount, pay lots of attention to the 16
> screws. Tighten them one by one diagonally and move the bed around. If
> the bed feels stuck, loosen the last screws and shift the mounts
> around a bit. The lighter this mount moves, the better your prints
> will be.
>
> One thing that you must be aware: This printer is a great little unit,
> but it needs love, dedication and plenty upgrades. Out of the box it
> works okay, but with the upgrades it becomes a really good unit.


---

### Answer by username_0 on 2019-09-01. Score: 1

Thanx for the help, got it running now.
The board in the pic is the older version, my problem was the wires for the extruder had been cut really short for some reason and not labled.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: This sounds like a comment to username_1's answer.  
> **username_1**: Ok, good.Glad you got it sorted. Please mark this (your answer) as the accepted answer (using the tick button next to the answer), in order to remove your question from the unanswered question list, thanks As a beta site we need to keep our queues short. It would still be nice to see a photo of your (new version) board, and the short leads, in case anyone else has the same problems as you, at a later date. The more information you provide, the more useful your answer becomes to the community in general.  

---

