<p>at least 110# card, probably not above 200# card. 110# is thicker than my playing cards, as an FYI. I've used it for quite shuffleable cards for playtest games. </p>

<p>Once you get past 200# stock, you're into stuff too stiff for comfortable shuffling.</p>

<p>A high rag content is good, as well, as it's more resilient than pure wood-pulp stocks. High clay content is bad, for the same reason, and because it results in longer drying times, higher chance of backs being marked, and in my experience, higher chance of laser printing wearing off.</p>

<p>Note that if you're doing print and play for long term use, it's better to use some form of ink printing rather than laser/photocopier, due to face wear. (Remembering that inks soak in, while laser toner is actually a surface deposit, and thus wears off.) </p>

<p>Remember: for small runs, odds are that the copy shop will simply photocopy (usually using a laser copier) the material. If you can afford offset for the run, it's probably the most durable.</p>

<p>For playable home use, 110# white cotton bond no-clay card is fine, especially if using an inkjet.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2013-08-14T22:33:29.517Z
2013-08-14T22:33:29.517Z
aramis
<p>I am interested in printing custom cards for Ticket to Ride. I have some experience with printing (I used to run a magazine), so I would to print the cards with a regular printer or with a Kinko's. This is a bit more DIY than going with a custom printer who specializes in playing cards and games. What kind of paper stock should I use to print custom cards?</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-25T08:20:15.860Z
I'd like to add, that if you are missing some cards in regular TTR (North America) and want to replace them, you can just buy 1910 expansion and enjoy larger train cards as well as more variety of destination tickets.
Deo
<ticket-to-ride><custom-game-pieces><print-and-play>
What kind of paper should one use to print custom cards?
Jason
# What kind of paper should one use to print custom cards?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2013-08-14)

I am interested in printing custom cards for Ticket to Ride. I have some experience with printing (I used to run a magazine), so I would to print the cards with a regular printer or with a Kinko's. This is a bit more DIY than going with a custom printer who specializes in playing cards and games. What kind of paper stock should I use to print custom cards?

**Tags:** ticket-to-ride, custom-game-pieces, print-and-play

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: I'd like to add, that if you are missing some cards in regular TTR (North America) and want to replace them, you can just buy 1910 expansion and enjoy larger train cards as well as more variety of destination tickets.  

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2013-08-14. Score: 10 | Accepted answer

at least 110# card, probably not above 200# card. 110# is thicker than my playing cards, as an FYI. I've used it for quite shuffleable cards for playtest games.

Once you get past 200# stock, you're into stuff too stiff for comfortable shuffling.

A high rag content is good, as well, as it's more resilient than pure wood-pulp stocks. High clay content is bad, for the same reason, and because it results in longer drying times, higher chance of backs being marked, and in my experience, higher chance of laser printing wearing off.

Note that if you're doing print and play for long term use, it's better to use some form of ink printing rather than laser/photocopier, due to face wear. (Remembering that inks soak in, while laser toner is actually a surface deposit, and thus wears off.)

Remember: for small runs, odds are that the copy shop will simply photocopy (usually using a laser copier) the material. If you can afford offset for the run, it's probably the most durable.

For playable home use, 110# white cotton bond no-clay card is fine, especially if using an inkjet.


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