Answers.Body: <p>The length of the wire is another thing to be aware of. The wire attached to the motor in 8293 is only slightly more than 20 centimeters (might be a few centimeters more, I don't remember), you can double that by putting in the switch which has about the same length of wire, but it's still not much. I don't know how long the wire in 8700 was, but it looks longer.</p>
  
  <p>You should also be aware that the new motor doesn't have a pin sticking out that rotates, but a pinhole, if you put in a 2L axle it will look about the same, but the notches on the newer (part 32062 - the older part 3704 didn't have notches) are in a different position (I believe they are in the middle of "each L", while the pictures show that the notch on the axle extending from the old motor is in the middle of the "half L" closest to the motor, the belt wheel was about ½L thick), so you'll have to think about how you place the belt wheel if you want to use a rubber band directly from the axle to transfer the motion. You can work around that with a (half)bush on the axle, but that significantly changes the circumference the rubber band goes around, as thus the gearing. (This section was significantly extended to address Michael Verschaeve comments, thanks goes to him for pointing out the issues I believe I have now addressed)</p>
  
  <p>I don't know set 8034, but from the pictures it looks like it would be hard to fit the new motor due to the increased length. </p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2018-03-01T13:15:52.417Z
Answers.Text: I'll wait with accepting 'till I'll have a chance to assembly this car again, but I'm afraid you may be right that cable length and motor length will make it fail. Also, good catch about notches on 32062 - I didn't even thought about that to be an issue
Answers.UserDisplayName: Mołot
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2018-03-01T13:30:22.203Z
Answers.Text: If the notches indeed do not align, easily adressed by putting a bush or halfbush on the 2L axle ...
Answers.UserDisplayName: Michael Verschaeve
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2018-03-01T13:38:41.600Z
Answers.Text: Also, I doubt I have ever seen the notches in a 2L axle being used as a pulley for a rubber belt, I kind of doubt they are deep and wide enough...
Answers.UserDisplayName: Michael Verschaeve
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2018-03-01T13:59:15.103Z
Answers.Text: I have extended the answer (the middle paragraph) to address those issues. (It became a rather long comment and felt like something that belonged in the answer).
Answers.UserDisplayName: Henrik supports the community
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Answers.CreationDate: 2018-03-02T05:17:57.777Z
Answers.Text: 8700 came with two wires.  The short one was about 20 cm (suitable for adding a battery trailer to your self-powered vehicle), while the long one was 75 cm (suitable for a remote control).
Answers.UserDisplayName: Mark
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Answers.CreationDate: 2018-03-02T08:33:49.383Z
Answers.Text: Agreed with the issue of the notch in the 2bar, a better option might be the technic smooth half-bush?
Answers.UserDisplayName: Zhaph - Ben Duguid
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Answers.CreationDate: 2018-03-01T12:28:31.457Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2018-03-01T13:58:09.843Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2018-03-01T13:58:09.843Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Henrik supports the community
Body: <p>Set <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8034" rel="noreferrer">8034</a> was supposed to be motorized using <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8700" rel="noreferrer">8700</a>. Of course,  this is way outdated and kinda pointless to buy motor this old. </p>
  
  <p><a href="http://lego.brickinstructions.com/lego_instructions/set/8034/Universal_Building_Set" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/jn2Th.jpg" alt="8034+8700 instructions"></a></p>
  
  <p>Current set for this purpose is <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8293" rel="noreferrer">8293</a>. Problem is, old motor was 5 studs long, new one is 6, and new set does not provide rubber band for power transmission. Can these be easily fixed? And is there anything else I  should be aware of?</p>
  
Tags: <technic><compatibility><motor>
Title: Can I still motorize Universal Building Set 8034 and other from that time with modern elements?
UserDisplayName: Mołot
ThreadText: # Can I still motorize Universal Building Set 8034 and other from that time with modern elements?
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2018-02-28)
  
  Set [8034](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8034) was supposed to be motorized using [8700](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8700). Of course, this is way outdated and kinda pointless to buy motor this old.
  
  [![8034+8700 instructions](https://i.sstatic.net/jn2Th.jpg)](http://lego.brickinstructions.com/lego_instructions/set/8034/Universal_Building_Set)
  
  Current set for this purpose is [8293](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8293). Problem is, old motor was 5 studs long, new one is 6, and new set does not provide rubber band for power transmission. Can these be easily fixed? And is there anything else I should be aware of?
  
  **Tags:** technic, compatibility, motor
  
  
  ---
  
  ## 1 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_1 on 2018-03-01. Score: 7 | Accepted answer
  
  The length of the wire is another thing to be aware of. The wire attached to the motor in 8293 is only slightly more than 20 centimeters (might be a few centimeters more, I don't remember), you can double that by putting in the switch which has about the same length of wire, but it's still not much. I don't know how long the wire in 8700 was, but it looks longer.
  
  You should also be aware that the new motor doesn't have a pin sticking out that rotates, but a pinhole, if you put in a 2L axle it will look about the same, but the notches on the newer (part 32062 - the older part 3704 didn't have notches) are in a different position (I believe they are in the middle of "each L", while the pictures show that the notch on the axle extending from the old motor is in the middle of the "half L" closest to the motor, the belt wheel was about ½L thick), so you'll have to think about how you place the belt wheel if you want to use a rubber band directly from the axle to transfer the motion. You can work around that with a (half)bush on the axle, but that significantly changes the circumference the rubber band goes around, as thus the gearing. (This section was significantly extended to address username_2 comments, thanks goes to him for pointing out the issues I believe I have now addressed)
  
  I don't know set 8034, but from the pictures it looks like it would be hard to fit the new motor due to the increased length.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_0**: I'll wait with accepting 'till I'll have a chance to assembly this car again, but I'm afraid you may be right that cable length and motor length will make it fail. Also, good catch about notches on 32062 - I didn't even thought about that to be an issue  
  > **username_2**: If the notches indeed do not align, easily adressed by putting a bush or halfbush on the 2L axle ...  
  > **username_2**: Also, I doubt I have ever seen the notches in a 2L axle being used as a pulley for a rubber belt, I kind of doubt they are deep and wide enough...  
  > **username_1**: I have extended the answer (the middle paragraph) to address those issues. (It became a rather long comment and felt like something that belonged in the answer).  
  > **username_3**: 8700 came with two wires.  The short one was about 20 cm (suitable for adding a battery trailer to your self-powered vehicle), while the long one was 75 cm (suitable for a remote control).  
  > **username_4**: Agreed with the issue of the notch in the 2bar, a better option might be the technic smooth half-bush?  
  
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