Answers.Body: <p>I just built the bridge yesterday. I didn't have all the parts so had to be creative at some points.
  I'll improve some joints once I picked up more of my Lego at my dads' place.</p>
  
  <p>Very funny project!</p>
  
  <p>Pictures:
  <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/8Y6MQ.jpg" alt="lego bridge top">
  <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/XBH20.jpg" alt="lego bridge bottom">
  <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/D7xpD.jpg" alt="lego bridge straight out">
  <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/4WFRX.jpg" alt="lego bridge bottom overall">
  <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/bQG6k.jpg" alt="lego bridge front"></p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2015-05-29T05:49:16.313Z
Answers.Text: Now all you need is instructions for the rest of us (just kidding)!
Answers.UserDisplayName: CJBS
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-12-16T19:48:36.267Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2017-04-18T18:53:26.883Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2017-04-18T18:53:26.883Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Niels
Answers.Body: <p>Thanks for your help with this construction. I have made a faithful copy of this 1968 catalog bridge, <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131944227@N06/28091380200/in/photostream/lightbox/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pics</a>:-</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/QQryS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/QQryS.jpg" alt="Completed bridge" /></a></p>
  <p>Also a list of components.</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/P0Z3i.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/P0Z3i.jpg" alt="Parts" /></a></p>
  <p>Hope that's helpful. I have a 12 image photo diary of the build too. If you would like it message me through Flickr.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-09-17T19:17:49.780Z
Answers.Text: Nice result. I took mine apart a while ago.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Niels
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-04-02T03:34:59.720Z
Answers.Text: I took a close look at the Chris Bull's Flickr photos posted above which are magnificent. When trying to build my own bridge, I ended with a slightly different parts list which I am trying to reconcile. I can't figure out where additional white 2x4 plates and blue 1x2 plates should go. The Flickr album indicates 10 white 2x4 plates, and I ended up only using 4 of those, and 8 blue 1x2 plates and I couldn't figure out where to place any of those.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Byron H
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-07-17T21:50:37.497Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2022-04-02T22:28:32.717Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2022-04-02T22:28:32.717Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: user7452
Answers.Body: <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/VOPsa.jpg" alt="Old Rail Bridge"></p>
  
  <p>Here is an approximation of the bridge that appears on the cover of the catalog pictured above. Unlike the version in the picture, this model uses bracket pieces to attach the arched section to the rail bed. All the pieces in this build were available prior to 1994.</p>
  
  <p>The arches are decorative and do not really contribute to the strength of the bridge. This is completely computer-generated and may not be very sturdy in real life. It would not be difficult to adapt the rail bed to give it more strength, however.</p>
  
  <p>I put together an LDraw file with steps for building this bridge. The file can be <a href="http://mocpages.com/moc.php/331101" rel="noreferrer">downloaded from my MOCpage.</a></p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2013-05-19T22:27:11.363Z
Answers.Text: @62Bricks - I have updated my question with info about the problems I faced trying to build the bridge. I think LDraw may have allowed some impossible connections.
Answers.UserDisplayName: mcqwerty
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2013-05-20T00:11:57.200Z
Answers.Text: It's difficult to tell how this was done in the original picture, but it looks like you might be able to work around the issue by adding a 1x1 round plate under one of the rails that are colliding.
Answers.UserDisplayName: jncraton
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2013-05-20T02:02:35.183Z
Answers.Text: @jncraton - I came to a very similar conclusion and saw your comment when I came back to update my question. I have credited you in my second edit. Thanks!
Answers.UserDisplayName: mcqwerty
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2013-06-01T21:49:58.683Z
Answers.Text: Ah - one of the pitfalls of virtual building. I recall messing with that angle a long time trying to get things to look right and I missed that collision. Sounds like the round plate fix will work.
Answers.UserDisplayName: 62Bricks
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2021-03-18T11:41:41.913Z
Answers.Text: Mocpages.com is down, probably forever. Anyway we can get a mirror for the LDraw file? Tried https://web.archive.org/web/20130503123257/http://mocpages.com/user_images/14152/1341434995m.ldr but no luck
Answers.UserDisplayName: Henrique de Sousa
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2012-07-04T21:01:26.043Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2012-07-04T21:01:26.043Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: 62Bricks
Body: <p>I am interested in building a bridge for my layout and stumbled upon <a href="http://www.bricksetforum.com/discussion/comment/38897/#Comment_38897" rel="noreferrer">this forum post</a> in which user 'Istokg' posted a picture of a train bridge made from the blue rails used in the pre-1980s train sets.
  <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/VWtJe.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
  <p>This is from a 1969 Lego publication which has been scanned and uploaded to brickfetish.com and can be found <a href="http://www.brickfetish.com/samsonite/3369-US/3369-us_front-rear-cover.htm" rel="noreferrer">here</a>.</p>
  
  <p>Obviously this could be built with either the blue rails as shown or even the newer grey rails.
  My question is: can anyone provide insight, (or even better, building instructions), on how it is constructed. Even the larger picture in the scan is still too small to see exactly how the rails are fixed to the main structure.</p>
  
  <p><strong>--------- Edit ---------</strong></p>
  
  <p>I finally have all of my Lego spares in one place and have had time to try a prototype build of the bridge using @62Bricks' LDraw file, but I have hit upon a problem:</p>
  
  <p>The angles of the vertical rails where they connect to the plates at the top are such that it is not possible to attach the curved outside rails. This is best illustrated by the picture below:
  <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/UJ5AP.jpg" alt="Rail angle problem"></p>
  
  <p>As you can see, there is no way to attach the upper rail as the vertical rails attached to the studs on the lower row of the plates almost touch the studs on the upper row.</p>
  
  <p>I thought at first this was due to my using 'Gray-era' rails rather than the 'Blue-era' rails used in the 1969 bridge and in @62Bricks' LDraw file but as far as I can see there is no difference between the two that would affect the outcome here. (I don't have any blue rails to test though).</p>
  
  <p>Further supporting evidence is that at high magnification in LDraw, the stud on the plate can be seen protruding through the end of the rail, which is impossible in practice.
  <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/I8R5r.jpg" alt="Bridge closeup"></p>
  
  <p>I do happen to have a straight rail where the end cap is broken off, I tried this with the approximate angle of the curved rail and was able to achieve something that looked about right:
  <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/9cYsv.jpg" alt="with broken rail"></p>
  
  <p>I don't want to have to break the ends off my rails to <em>make</em> them fit and also the grip of the broken rail on the stud was much reduced, so I doubt a bridge made with this method would hold up well with the vibration of trains rumbling across it.</p>
  
  <p>I am, therefore, stuck. I have my prototype bridge part built but I can go no further. I would love to hear any suggestions on how to proceed as well as any theories as to how Lego made the bridge in the picture work. </p>
  
  <p><strong>--------- Edit 2 ---------</strong></p>
  
  <p>After much experimenting with jumper plates and studying of the original picture, the solution was actually quite simple. (And identical to that suggested by @jcranton in the comments of the accepted answer):</p>
  
  <p>By adding <a href="http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3024" rel="noreferrer">1x1 plates</a> under the connections to the vertical rails, the collision is avoided. (@jcranton's suggestion to use round plates I think is better than the square plates I have used).</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/3zmqI.jpg" alt="bridge solution"></p>
  
  <p>The method above also means there is no need for double stacking the plates as shown in the LDraw from @62Bricks.</p>
  
  <p>So my prototype is taking shape:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/78JU2.jpg" alt="Prototype"></p>
  
  <p>I have made a few other modifications, most notably dropping the level of the deck to accommodate the height of the trains I intend to run on it. I have also added reinforcement plates to the back of the sides to add rigidity as I intend to make the bridge wide enough for two tracks. </p>
  
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2012-06-27T20:10:09.910Z
Comments.Text: It's very difficult tell without getting a closer look at the set but it looks like they may be using curved track parts to build the bridge (I also thought these could be straight bricks under stress). As it's a Samsonite set it may be connected with specially designed pieces.
Comments.UserDisplayName: Ambo100
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2012-07-04T17:13:32.053Z
Comments.Text: Are you mainly interested in reconstructing the bridge exactly as it was in the photo, or constructing one that looks like it using the old rail pieces? Based on the parts available at the time (at least to the public) it does not appear the bridge in the photo is fully connected. Instead, it seems the "supports" are fitted around the railbed as decoration. Using modern pieces, though, it would not be hard to duplicate the appearance of the bridge and also make it structurally sound.
Comments.UserDisplayName: 62Bricks
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2012-07-04T18:13:50.970Z
Comments.Text: @62Bricks - It doesn't have to be exact. I am interesting in understanding how it is constructed using the pieces from the time, even if the rail pieces are just decoration. But for my build I can use any pieces available pre-1994. (This is a self-imposed limit on my classic town layout). As Ambo100 pointed out, the bridge in the photo may be using specially designed pieces and I'm particularly interested in discovering what they may be.
Comments.UserDisplayName: mcqwerty
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2012-07-04T19:28:28.403Z
Comments.Text: I don't believe there are any special pieces used. I think the rails are simply attached by the ends on plates. The structure has been built "sideways" and then placed on top of the simple bridge made with bricks and plates connected by the tracks on which the train runs. This is a technique you can see in other photographs from the same era.
Comments.UserDisplayName: 62Bricks
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2021-07-28T13:53:45.870Z
Comments.Text: Wat ontzettend leuk, toevallig zocht ik naar zo'n soort brug om te bouwen. Van technisch lego had ik wel iets gevonden, maar ik vind dit veel leuker. Bedankt voor deze site.
Comments.UserDisplayName: J.M. de Groot
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2021-07-28T16:34:30.993Z
Comments.Text: Google translate renders this as "How great fun, I happened to be looking for such a bridge to build. I would have found something from technical Lego, but I like this much more." But this seems more like a comment to me than an actual answer.
Comments.UserDisplayName: RSchulz
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2024-01-15T21:01:58.820Z
Comments.Text: I found same problem using blue rails at the time, can't be done. I've picture here, leaflet for rails,  yes the rails going up are in front of the rails across, so plate under.
Comments.UserDisplayName: Andrew Hodson
Tags: <trains><instructions><vintage><bridge>
Title: How to build bridge using 4.5/12v train rails from 1969 Lego brochure
UserDisplayName: mcqwerty
ThreadText: # How to build bridge using 4.5/12v train rails from 1969 Lego brochure
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2012-06-24)
  
  I am interested in building a bridge for my layout and stumbled upon [this forum post](http://www.bricksetforum.com/discussion/comment/38897/#Comment_38897) in which user 'Istokg' posted a picture of a train bridge made from the blue rails used in the pre-1980s train sets.
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/VWtJe.jpg)
  
  This is from a 1969 Lego publication which has been scanned and uploaded to brickfetish.com and can be found [here](http://www.brickfetish.com/samsonite/3369-US/3369-us_front-rear-cover.htm).
  
  Obviously this could be built with either the blue rails as shown or even the newer grey rails.
  My question is: can anyone provide insight, (or even better, building instructions), on how it is constructed. Even the larger picture in the scan is still too small to see exactly how the rails are fixed to the main structure.
  
  **--------- Edit ---------**
  
  I finally have all of my Lego spares in one place and have had time to try a prototype build of the bridge using @username_2' LDraw file, but I have hit upon a problem:
  
  The angles of the vertical rails where they connect to the plates at the top are such that it is not possible to attach the curved outside rails. This is best illustrated by the picture below:
  ![Rail angle problem](https://i.sstatic.net/UJ5AP.jpg)
  
  As you can see, there is no way to attach the upper rail as the vertical rails attached to the studs on the lower row of the plates almost touch the studs on the upper row.
  
  I thought at first this was due to my using 'Gray-era' rails rather than the 'Blue-era' rails used in the 1969 bridge and in @username_2' LDraw file but as far as I can see there is no difference between the two that would affect the outcome here. (I don't have any blue rails to test though).
  
  Further supporting evidence is that at high magnification in LDraw, the stud on the plate can be seen protruding through the end of the rail, which is impossible in practice.
  ![Bridge closeup](https://i.sstatic.net/I8R5r.jpg)
  
  I do happen to have a straight rail where the end cap is broken off, I tried this with the approximate angle of the curved rail and was able to achieve something that looked about right:
  ![with broken rail](https://i.sstatic.net/9cYsv.jpg)
  
  I don't want to have to break the ends off my rails to *make* them fit and also the grip of the broken rail on the stud was much reduced, so I doubt a bridge made with this method would hold up well with the vibration of trains rumbling across it.
  
  I am, therefore, stuck. I have my prototype bridge part built but I can go no further. I would love to hear any suggestions on how to proceed as well as any theories as to how Lego made the bridge in the picture work.
  
  **--------- Edit 2 ---------**
  
  After much experimenting with jumper plates and studying of the original picture, the solution was actually quite simple. (And identical to that suggested by @jcranton in the comments of the accepted answer):
  
  By adding [1x1 plates](http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3024) under the connections to the vertical rails, the collision is avoided. (@jcranton's suggestion to use round plates I think is better than the square plates I have used).
  
  ![bridge solution](https://i.sstatic.net/3zmqI.jpg)
  
  The method above also means there is no need for double stacking the plates as shown in the LDraw from @username_2.
  
  So my prototype is taking shape:
  
  ![Prototype](https://i.sstatic.net/78JU2.jpg)
  
  I have made a few other modifications, most notably dropping the level of the deck to accommodate the height of the trains I intend to run on it. I have also added reinforcement plates to the back of the sides to add rigidity as I intend to make the bridge wide enough for two tracks.
  
  **Tags:** trains, instructions, vintage, bridge
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_1**: It's very difficult tell without getting a closer look at the set but it looks like they may be using curved track parts to build the bridge (I also thought these could be straight bricks under stress). As it's a Samsonite set it may be connected with specially designed pieces.  
  > **username_2**: Are you mainly interested in reconstructing the bridge exactly as it was in the photo, or constructing one that looks like it using the old rail pieces? Based on the parts available at the time (at least to the public) it does not appear the bridge in the photo is fully connected. Instead, it seems the "supports" are fitted around the railbed as decoration. Using modern pieces, though, it would not be hard to duplicate the appearance of the bridge and also make it structurally sound.  
  > **username_0**: @username_2 - It doesn't have to be exact. I am interesting in understanding how it is constructed using the pieces from the time, even if the rail pieces are just decoration. But for my build I can use any pieces available pre-1994. (This is a self-imposed limit on my classic town layout). As username_1 pointed out, the bridge in the photo may be using specially designed pieces and I'm particularly interested in discovering what they may be.  
  > **username_2**: I don't believe there are any special pieces used. I think the rails are simply attached by the ends on plates. The structure has been built "sideways" and then placed on top of the simple bridge made with bricks and plates connected by the tracks on which the train runs. This is a technique you can see in other photographs from the same era.  
  > **username_3**: Wat ontzettend leuk, toevallig zocht ik naar zo'n soort brug om te bouwen. Van technisch lego had ik wel iets gevonden, maar ik vind dit veel leuker. Bedankt voor deze site.  
  > **username_4**: Google translate renders this as "How great fun, I happened to be looking for such a bridge to build. I would have found something from technical Lego, but I like this much more." But this seems more like a comment to me than an actual answer.  
  > **username_5**: I found same problem using blue rails at the time, can't be done. I've picture here, leaflet for rails,  yes the rails going up are in front of the rails across, so plate under.  
  
  ---
  
  ## 3 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_2 on 2012-07-04. Score: 26 | Accepted answer
  
  ![Old Rail Bridge](https://i.sstatic.net/VOPsa.jpg)
  
  Here is an approximation of the bridge that appears on the cover of the catalog pictured above. Unlike the version in the picture, this model uses bracket pieces to attach the arched section to the rail bed. All the pieces in this build were available prior to 1994.
  
  The arches are decorative and do not really contribute to the strength of the bridge. This is completely computer-generated and may not be very sturdy in real life. It would not be difficult to adapt the rail bed to give it more strength, however.
  
  I put together an LDraw file with steps for building this bridge. The file can be [downloaded from my MOCpage.](http://mocpages.com/moc.php/331101)
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_0**: @username_2 - I have updated my question with info about the problems I faced trying to build the bridge. I think LDraw may have allowed some impossible connections.  
  > **username_10**: It's difficult to tell how this was done in the original picture, but it looks like you might be able to work around the issue by adding a 1x1 round plate under one of the rails that are colliding.  
  > **username_0**: @username_10 - I came to a very similar conclusion and saw your comment when I came back to update my question. I have credited you in my second edit. Thanks!  
  > **username_2**: Ah - one of the pitfalls of virtual building. I recall messing with that angle a long time trying to get things to look right and I missed that collision. Sounds like the round plate fix will work.  
  > **username_11**: Mocpages.com is down, probably forever. Anyway we can get a mirror for the LDraw file? Tried https://web.archive.org/web/20130503123257/http://mocpages.com/user_images/14152/1341434995m.ldr but no luck  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_6 on 2014-12-16. Score: 10
  
  I just built the bridge yesterday. I didn't have all the parts so had to be creative at some points.
  I'll improve some joints once I picked up more of my Lego at my dads' place.
  
  Very funny project!
  
  Pictures:
  ![lego bridge top](https://i.sstatic.net/8Y6MQ.jpg)
  ![lego bridge bottom](https://i.sstatic.net/XBH20.jpg)
  ![lego bridge straight out](https://i.sstatic.net/D7xpD.jpg)
  ![lego bridge bottom overall](https://i.sstatic.net/4WFRX.jpg)
  ![lego bridge front](https://i.sstatic.net/bQG6k.jpg)
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_7**: Now all you need is instructions for the rest of us (just kidding)!  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_8 on 2016-07-17. Score: 7
  
  Thanks for your help with this construction. I have made a faithful copy of this 1968 catalog bridge, [pics](https://www.flickr.com/photos/131944227@N06/28091380200/in/photostream/lightbox/):-
  
  [![Completed bridge](https://i.sstatic.net/QQryS.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/QQryS.jpg)
  
  Also a list of components.
  
  [![Parts](https://i.sstatic.net/P0Z3i.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/P0Z3i.jpg)
  
  Hope that's helpful. I have a 12 image photo diary of the build too. If you would like it message me through Flickr.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_6**: Nice result. I took mine apart a while ago.  
  > **username_9**: I took a close look at the Chris Bull's Flickr photos posted above which are magnificent. When trying to build my own bridge, I ended with a slightly different parts list which I am trying to reconcile. I can't figure out where additional white 2x4 plates and blue 1x2 plates should go. The Flickr album indicates 10 white 2x4 plates, and I ended up only using 4 of those, and 8 blue 1x2 plates and I couldn't figure out where to place any of those.  
  
  ---
  
  