Answers.Body: <p>What if you had anti-studs where you want them, at stud-depth, but also overlaid technic holes at full technic pin depth where you want them? This would lead to a complicated, non-standard arrangement, but if you look at, eg, the new 2x1 jumper plates, they are designed to allow a stud in the middle between the two normal anti-studs. Since you have two different depths here, it might be possible to make the technic pins still click properly.</p>
  
  <p>Failing that you could just not provide the full set of technic holes and instead spread them around outside the studs.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2019-07-30T19:41:34.877Z
Answers.Text: Thanks for great hint! I think the technic pins will make it and click, but the classic anti-studs may connect a bit looser since the technic holes will be just horizontally in the middle between the classic anti-studs and will interfere with them. But I could make the classic anti-stud diameter a bit smaller to fix that. I think it will work! I tried to have clean and "nice" design so this solution has not come to my mind. It will be a bit ugly but will work better! :)
Answers.UserDisplayName: Kozuch
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2019-07-30T21:09:22.957Z
Answers.Text: Rin Rio-Oki's example of the 2x4 plate with technic holes shows the concept even better than what I imagined, because of course you can fit the technic holes betwen the studs if you offset them in that way. That is a proven design, I guess.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Mr. Shiny and New 安宇
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2019-07-30T19:07:42.260Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2019-07-30T19:07:42.260Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Mr. Shiny and New 安宇
Answers.Body: <p>Hmm...  I don't know...  I personally, wouldn't try to reinvent pin placement of Technic holes and Studs. I'm not saying being creative that way is too challenging. What I am saying is that, we should work with examples, or in this case parts that already bridge Classic stud width with Technic holes. </p>
  
  <p>Placing pins where the studs belong seems akin to reinventing the wheel, when we <em>could</em> be building off the long work history already put into the wheel's design, and spring board off that instead.  </p>
  
  <p>With that said, I'd point you to a Technic 2 x 4 plate with three holes.  </p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/3ZTet.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/3ZTet.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p>Replicate it, split it in half (lengthwise), and embed the top on to the top of the camera housing.  Take the split bottom half and embed that into the bottom of the camera housing. </p>
  
  <p>Visually, to me, the stud width of your design looks like a Technic 2x6, but there seems to be enough room to jam a Technic 2x8 in there.</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/EWnCb.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/EWnCb.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/DDhkN.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/DDhkN.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p>For my brain to work, I like pictures.  So, for piece inspiration, I'd go to <em><a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=pin#T=A" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Bricklink's</a></em> database and just type "pin", "pins" or "holes" and look at the pictures of parts that have a key word in them.  Doing this expands the possibilities of what could be done to make your design solid.</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/cZAGg.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/cZAGg.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/gfvMD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/gfvMD.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>               </p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/ZOSuW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/ZOSuW.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/uZYwC.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/uZYwC.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p>Also for me, it's easier to reverse engineer things I see.  So, for ideas I would <em>BL</em> search these parts, look up the sets that they were in, and watch a <em>Youtube</em> * speed build of one of these Technic sets to see how the part was used, and maybe come across an ingenious way someone mated Classic studs with Technic <em>pinage</em>.</p>
  
  <p>(* When dealing with <em>Youtube</em>. Time is precious and limited, so remember we can reclaim some time by speeding up <em>YT</em> playback with the settings "<em>gear</em>".)   </p>
  
  <p><strong>EDIT</strong></p>
  
  <p><strong>Another design compatibility suggestion:</strong></p>
  
  <p>There are no pictures showing the total height of your camera rig.  I'm just imagining it inside a robot, or something, and the height of it doesn't conform to the standard bricks built around it. </p>
  
  <p>Try to <strong><em>standardize</em></strong> your work, by making  sure the total height is equal to a pillar of bricks, and round the entire height to the nearest brick.</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/bN3Sv.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/bN3Sv.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>   </p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2019-07-30T20:34:43.647Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2019-08-01T21:46:46.883Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2019-08-01T21:46:46.883Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Rin Rio-Oki
Body: <p>I design stereo camera housing for robotics (3d printing). I want the housing to be able to connect to both LEGO Classic and LEGO Technic blocks. I designed 2 groups of 4x4 holes/pins on the bottom/top of the case for LEGO Classic. This works fine using the camera as "intermediary" piece (connecting bricks both from bottom and top and incorporating the camera into a LEGO robot).</p>
  
  <p>However I also want Technic to mate the camera. I came up with holes for Technic pins which make some of the "Classic" holes deeper. The problem is Technic uses odd number for beams so they can center with one hole. Is there a part (maybe 2-sided double-beam) that would connect even to odd and allowed me to center the camera on LEGO Technic properly?</p>
  
  <p>Sure I could move the holes one step to sides (make beam 5 fit) but that would produce the same problem on the Classic side (centering, using 7x2 or 8x2 instead of 6x2).</p>
  
  <p>Camera bottom side (hole in the center is for tripod screw):</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/JKdg2.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/JKdg2.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p>Camera top side:</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/AzaSg.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/AzaSg.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
Tags: <part-identification><technic><compatibility><design><robotic>
Title: Technic beam centering for beam with even length
UserDisplayName: Kozuch
ThreadText: # Technic beam centering for beam with even length
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2019-07-30)
  
  I design stereo camera housing for robotics (3d printing). I want the housing to be able to connect to both LEGO Classic and LEGO Technic blocks. I designed 2 groups of 4x4 holes/pins on the bottom/top of the case for LEGO Classic. This works fine using the camera as "intermediary" piece (connecting bricks both from bottom and top and incorporating the camera into a LEGO robot).
  
  However I also want Technic to mate the camera. I came up with holes for Technic pins which make some of the "Classic" holes deeper. The problem is Technic uses odd number for beams so they can center with one hole. Is there a part (maybe 2-sided double-beam) that would connect even to odd and allowed me to center the camera on LEGO Technic properly?
  
  Sure I could move the holes one step to sides (make beam 5 fit) but that would produce the same problem on the Classic side (centering, using 7x2 or 8x2 instead of 6x2).
  
  Camera bottom side (hole in the center is for tripod screw):
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/JKdg2.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/JKdg2.png)
  
  Camera top side:
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/AzaSg.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/AzaSg.png)
  
  **Tags:** part-identification, technic, compatibility, design, robotic
  
  
  ---
  
  ## 2 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_2 on 2019-07-30. Score: 6
  
  Hmm... I don't know... I personally, wouldn't try to reinvent pin placement of Technic holes and Studs. I'm not saying being creative that way is too challenging. What I am saying is that, we should work with examples, or in this case parts that already bridge Classic stud width with Technic holes.
  
  Placing pins where the studs belong seems akin to reinventing the wheel, when we *could* be building off the long work history already put into the wheel's design, and spring board off that instead.
  
  With that said, I'd point you to a Technic 2 x 4 plate with three holes.
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/3ZTet.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/3ZTet.jpg)
  
  Replicate it, split it in half (lengthwise), and embed the top on to the top of the camera housing. Take the split bottom half and embed that into the bottom of the camera housing.
  
  Visually, to me, the stud width of your design looks like a Technic 2x6, but there seems to be enough room to jam a Technic 2x8 in there.
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/EWnCb.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/EWnCb.png)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/DDhkN.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/DDhkN.png)
  
  For my brain to work, I like pictures. So, for piece inspiration, I'd go to *[Bricklink's](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=pin#T=A)* database and just type "pin", "pins" or "holes" and look at the pictures of parts that have a key word in them. Doing this expands the possibilities of what could be done to make your design solid.
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/cZAGg.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/cZAGg.jpg)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/gfvMD.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/gfvMD.jpg)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/ZOSuW.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/ZOSuW.jpg)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/uZYwC.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/uZYwC.png)
  
  Also for me, it's easier to reverse engineer things I see. So, for ideas I would *BL* search these parts, look up the sets that they were in, and watch a *Youtube* \* speed build of one of these Technic sets to see how the part was used, and maybe come across an ingenious way someone mated Classic studs with Technic *pinage*.
  
  (\* When dealing with *Youtube*. Time is precious and limited, so remember we can reclaim some time by speeding up *YT* playback with the settings "*gear*".)
  
  **EDIT**
  
  **Another design compatibility suggestion:**
  
  There are no pictures showing the total height of your camera rig. I'm just imagining it inside a robot, or something, and the height of it doesn't conform to the standard bricks built around it.
  
  Try to ***standardize*** your work, by making sure the total height is equal to a pillar of bricks, and round the entire height to the nearest brick.
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/bN3Sv.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/bN3Sv.jpg)
  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_1 on 2019-07-30. Score: 3
  
  What if you had anti-studs where you want them, at stud-depth, but also overlaid technic holes at full technic pin depth where you want them? This would lead to a complicated, non-standard arrangement, but if you look at, eg, the new 2x1 jumper plates, they are designed to allow a stud in the middle between the two normal anti-studs. Since you have two different depths here, it might be possible to make the technic pins still click properly.
  
  Failing that you could just not provide the full set of technic holes and instead spread them around outside the studs.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_0**: Thanks for great hint! I think the technic pins will make it and click, but the classic anti-studs may connect a bit looser since the technic holes will be just horizontally in the middle between the classic anti-studs and will interfere with them. But I could make the classic anti-stud diameter a bit smaller to fix that. I think it will work! I tried to have clean and "nice" design so this solution has not come to my mind. It will be a bit ugly but will work better! :)  
  > **username_1**: Rin username_2's example of the 2x4 plate with technic holes shows the concept even better than what I imagined, because of course you can fit the technic holes betwen the studs if you offset them in that way. That is a proven design, I guess.  
  
  ---
  
  