Answers.Body: <p>This is very old-school, but that's how I was doing SNOT in the early 80's: a plate, or a tile (as shown) snaps between 2 studs. I prefer tiles to plates, as I don't have studs-alignment issues, but I've used both, and both work.</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/wXhfj.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-07-07T14:07:17.780Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2014-07-07T14:07:17.780Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Stephane Delcroix
Answers.Body: <p>Holger Matthes has a good <a href="http://www.holgermatthes.de/bricks/en/snot.php" rel="noreferrer">page on SNOT building</a> which includes a few techniques on how to get stud-down orientation.</p>
  
  <p>Also, don't underestimate tiles, sometimes you can just lock the upside-down part into place without attaching it with studs at all (I did this when I was a kid to use a black <a href="http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/3943" rel="noreferrer">3943 — Cone 4 x 4 x 2</a> as a train chimney as the inverted part didn't exist at the time:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/bXwEH.png" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
  <p>None of the inverted parts are actually attached, but they are locked in place by surrounding parts. You can see inverted parts in orange in this partial build; the blue parts are tiles in the usual direction:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/rx9vc.png" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
  <p>Another good part to inverse stud direction is the <a href="http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/4081b" rel="noreferrer">4081b — Plate 1 x 1 with Clip Light - Type 2</a> (<img src="https://i.sstatic.net/UsF26.png" alt="Plate 1 x 1 with Clip Light - Type 2"> as the studs are exactly one plate apart. You'll need to hide it in the construction somehow, but it can be very handy.</p>
  
  <p>For example, both that part and the tile-on-tile technique are used in this window roof to inverse the below arch:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/253BF.png" alt="roof with window"></p>
  
  <p>It all rests on a tan <a href="http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/6179" rel="noreferrer">Tile 4 x 4 with Studs on Edge</a>, which is also used higher with a <a href="http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/2876" rel="noreferrer">Train Roof 6 x 6 Double Slope 45 / Slope 33</a> to finish the roof. The following image illustrate a partial build, will all upside-down parts colored orange:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/dmVKt.png" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
  <hr>
  
  <p>Edit: there are of course more techniques to be found on the Internet, but some are more simple or place-efficient than others. For plates for example, <a href="http://news.lugnet.com/build/?n=16529" rel="noreferrer">the use of levers</a> is as compact as you'll ever find. For bricks, you can also stuff a Technic axle in the tubes, as <a href="http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=1733888" rel="noreferrer">illustrated here</a>. Simple and efficient.</p>
  
  <hr>
  
  <p>Another edit, this time answering the question with the intended stud direction.<br>
  On a 2x4 brick/plate, place a <a href="http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/3185" rel="noreferrer">3185 — Fence 1 x 4 x 2</a>, then add two <a href="http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/87580" rel="noreferrer">87580 — Plate 2 x 2 with 1 Stud</a> with the stud facing down in one of the empty holes of the fence. This is probably the smallest offset you'll get, but the thickness of the fence isn't really standard, so whether it's useful or not depends on the rest of your creation.</p>
  
  <p>If you're willing, there's also the <a href="http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=clikits003" rel="noreferrer">Clikits Bead, Ring Thick Small with Hole</a> which accepts a stud in both directions.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2011-11-02T13:25:48.390Z
Answers.Text: Just a note on the edit - neither of those techniques would work to answer the question "How do I end up with studs together" - both the levers and axles methods result in "Studs facing out"
Answers.UserDisplayName: Zhaph - Ben Duguid
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2011-11-02T13:31:48.163Z
Answers.Text: Right, I had stored the question in a corner of my mind where it evidently got corrupted (I need to tidy up the place sometimes). 4081b has the same isue, as a matter of fact. But most of the time it's more or less the same issue anwyay.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Joubarc
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2011-11-02T13:32:51.830Z
Answers.Text: I know that feeling ;)
Answers.UserDisplayName: Zhaph - Ben Duguid
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2011-10-31T15:24:11.237Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2011-11-11T10:42:34.900Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2011-11-11T10:42:34.900Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Joubarc
Answers.Body: <p>Using Technic beams can work in this situation. As the holes are the diameter of a stud and are deeper than two studs' height, it can be used to some extent. See <a href="https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/203/when-did-lego-decide-that-it-was-okay-to-put-a-stud-into-a-technic-hole">When did Lego decide that it was okay to put a stud into a technic hole?</a> for more information on the limitations of this strategy.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2012-03-06T02:21:45.753Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2012-03-06T02:21:45.753Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2017-04-13T12:47:56.390Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Tuesday
Answers.Body: <p>I have never found a solution that I was completely pleased with (and gluing is a no-go), but the closest I've ever come is using <a href="http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=47905" rel="nofollow noreferrer">these</a>.</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Jc88A.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2011-10-25T20:28:40.753Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2011-10-26T03:08:14.910Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2011-10-26T03:08:14.910Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Steen
Answers.Body: <p>I came up with this</p>
  
  <p>(6 plates / 2 bricks)</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/1B4ZE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/1B4ZE.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p>Blue = Plate 1 x4</p>
  
  <p>Orange = Plate 2 x4</p>
  
  <p>White = Tile 1 x4</p>
  
  <p>Yellow = Tile 2 x 4</p>
  
  <p>DkblGray = <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=99780#T=C" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Bracket 1 x 2 - 1 x 2 Inverted</a></p>
  
  <p>also this
  (2 plates thick)</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/lGjgA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/lGjgA.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p><a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=15535#T=C" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Part# 15535 : Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Hole</a></p>
  
  <p>and
  <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=18674#T=C" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Part# 18674 : Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Open Stud</a></p>
  
  <ul>
  <li>This one i saw somewhere else</li>
  </ul>
  
  <p>("2.5" plates thick)</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/SRPwm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/SRPwm.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p><a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=18654#T=C" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Part# 18654 : Technic, Pin Connector Round 2/3 L</a></p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2020-04-24T14:40:06.833Z
Answers.Text: Great answer. I would probably also add the height/thickness of the layer used to connect 2x4 bricks together. Like "6 plates / 2 bricks" for the first one, "2 plates" for second one and "2.5" plates for last.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Alex
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2020-04-24T14:34:07.930Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2020-04-24T14:47:52.993Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2020-04-24T14:47:52.993Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Syberion
Answers.Body: <p>You can wedge a 1xN plate between studs (at a 90 degree angle) to the "normal" orientation. Repeat a second time, and now 2 bricks are stud-to-stud.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-07-07T06:22:25.473Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2014-07-07T06:22:25.473Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Mark Lakata
Answers.Body: <p>It depends on how close they need to be.</p>
  
  <p>The following solution works, if you're happy to have things sticking out around the join:</p>
  
  <p>"Brick 1x2 M. 2 Holes Ø 4,87", [part:32000:7]; There's also a 1x1 brick with a hole, [part:6541:7].</p>
  
  <p>Which could be used as:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/ipnpI.png" alt="Combined in desired orientation"></p>
  
  <p>For tighter coupling, the Minifig Wrench [part:6246d:0] can also fit over a stud, and is deeper than one stud, allowing two bricks to be inserted:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/5aWQH.jpg" alt="Erik Amzallag &#39;s method"></p>
  
  <p>Respect goes to <a href="http://news.lugnet.com/announce/moc/?n=3832" rel="noreferrer">Erik Amzallag</a> for this one.</p>
  
  <p>I guess it comes down to how you want to hide the join - you could use tiles on the studs that stick out, which wouldn't be possible with the wrench method.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2011-11-02T21:08:17.633Z
Answers.Text: Using the wrench: Mad skills.
Answers.UserDisplayName: fredley
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2011-11-02T21:16:00.157Z
Answers.Text: Yep,not my mad skills though ;)
Answers.UserDisplayName: Zhaph - Ben Duguid
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2015-09-18T02:06:55.903Z
Answers.Text: Just note that the first technique is officially an "illegal" build as per [this presentation](http://bramlambrecht.com/tmp/jamieberard-brickstress-bf06.pdf), so Use With Caution :)
Answers.UserDisplayName: Phil B.
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2015-09-18T06:09:43.707Z
Answers.Text: Indeed, however [it used to be acceptable](http://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/5935/56), and if I'd done it via only one stud that would be fine if a little less secure.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Zhaph - Ben Duguid
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2019-02-15T05:44:33.387Z
Answers.Text: Just to add to the wrench idea, the same can be achieved with 11010 Minifig Ring 1 x 1
Answers.UserDisplayName: Raystafarian
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2011-10-25T22:40:58.510Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2012-02-22T12:58:49.443Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2012-02-22T12:58:49.443Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Zhaph - Ben Duguid
Body: <p>I have a structure with some blocks facing in the 'normal' direction:</p>
  
  <pre><code> nn  nn  nn  nn
  |  ||  ||  ||  |   
   --  --  --  --
  </code></pre>
  
  <p>I would like to somehow connect a layer above this that has the blocks facing the other way so that I end up with:</p>
  
  <pre><code> --  --  --  --
  |  ||  ||  ||  |
   uu  uu  uu  uu
  
   nn  nn  nn  nn
  |  ||  ||  ||  |   
   --  --  --  --
  </code></pre>
  
  <p>How can I achieve this?</p>
  
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2014-02-26T11:25:35.477Z
Comments.Text: Wouldn't [the one ring bind them all?](http://brickset.com/parts/design-11010)
Comments.UserDisplayName: SQB
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2011-10-25T20:24:48.140Z
Comments.Text: +1 for ASCII art bricks. Also I think I once encountered an element that'd let you do this, but I can't remember right now...
Comments.UserDisplayName: LegoSonicBoy
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2011-10-25T20:25:15.547Z
Comments.Text: @BoltClock see http://meta.bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/6/how-should-i-diagrammatically-represent-lego-bricks-in-questions
Comments.UserDisplayName: fredley
Tags: <building><snot>
Title: How can I invert the direction of blocks in a structure?
UserDisplayName: fredley
ThreadText: # How can I invert the direction of blocks in a structure?
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2011-10-25)
  
  I have a structure with some blocks facing in the 'normal' direction:
  
  ```
   nn  nn  nn  nn
  |  ||  ||  ||  |   
   --  --  --  --
  
  ```
  
  I would like to somehow connect a layer above this that has the blocks facing the other way so that I end up with:
  
  ```
   --  --  --  --
  |  ||  ||  ||  |
   uu  uu  uu  uu
  
   nn  nn  nn  nn
  |  ||  ||  ||  |   
   --  --  --  --
  
  ```
  
  How can I achieve this?
  
  **Tags:** building, snot
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_2**: +1 for ASCII art bricks. Also I think I once encountered an element that'd let you do this, but I can't remember right now...  
  > **username_0**: @BoltClock see http://meta.bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/6/how-should-i-diagrammatically-represent-lego-bricks-in-questions  
  > **username_1**: Wouldn't [the one ring bind them all?](http://brickset.com/parts/design-11010)  
  
  ---
  
  ## 7 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_5 on 2011-10-25. Score: 32 | Accepted answer
  
  It depends on how close they need to be.
  
  The following solution works, if you're happy to have things sticking out around the join:
  
  "Brick 1x2 M. 2 Holes Ø 4,87", [part:32000:7]; There's also a 1x1 brick with a hole, [part:6541:7].
  
  Which could be used as:
  
  ![Combined in desired orientation](https://i.sstatic.net/ipnpI.png)
  
  For tighter coupling, the Minifig Wrench [part:6246d:0] can also fit over a stud, and is deeper than one stud, allowing two bricks to be inserted:
  
  ![Erik Amzallag 's method](https://i.sstatic.net/5aWQH.jpg)
  
  Respect goes to [Erik Amzallag](http://news.lugnet.com/announce/moc/?n=3832) for this one.
  
  I guess it comes down to how you want to hide the join - you could use tiles on the studs that stick out, which wouldn't be possible with the wrench method.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_0**: Using the wrench: Mad skills.  
  > **username_5**: Yep,not my mad skills though ;)  
  > **username_11**: Just note that the first technique is officially an "illegal" build as per [this presentation](http://bramlambrecht.com/tmp/jamieberard-brickstress-bf06.pdf), so Use With Caution :)  
  > **username_5**: Indeed, however [it used to be acceptable](http://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/5935/56), and if I'd done it via only one stud that would be fine if a little less secure.  
  > **username_12**: Just to add to the wrench idea, the same can be achieved with 11010 Minifig Ring 1 x 1  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_4 on 2011-10-31. Score: 22
  
  Holger Matthes has a good [page on SNOT building](http://www.holgermatthes.de/bricks/en/snot.php) which includes a few techniques on how to get stud-down orientation.
  
  Also, don't underestimate tiles, sometimes you can just lock the upside-down part into place without attaching it with studs at all (I did this when I was a kid to use a black [3943 — Cone 4 x 4 x 2](http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/3943) as a train chimney as the inverted part didn't exist at the time:
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/bXwEH.png)
  
  None of the inverted parts are actually attached, but they are locked in place by surrounding parts. You can see inverted parts in orange in this partial build; the blue parts are tiles in the usual direction:
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/rx9vc.png)
  
  Another good part to inverse stud direction is the [4081b — Plate 1 x 1 with Clip Light - Type 2](http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/4081b) (![Plate 1 x 1 with Clip Light - Type 2](https://i.sstatic.net/UsF26.png) as the studs are exactly one plate apart. You'll need to hide it in the construction somehow, but it can be very handy.
  
  For example, both that part and the tile-on-tile technique are used in this window roof to inverse the below arch:
  
  ![roof with window](https://i.sstatic.net/253BF.png)
  
  It all rests on a tan [Tile 4 x 4 with Studs on Edge](http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/6179), which is also used higher with a [Train Roof 6 x 6 Double Slope 45 / Slope 33](http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/2876) to finish the roof. The following image illustrate a partial build, will all upside-down parts colored orange:
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/dmVKt.png)
  
  ---
  
  Edit: there are of course more techniques to be found on the Internet, but some are more simple or place-efficient than others. For plates for example, [the use of levers](http://news.lugnet.com/build/?n=16529) is as compact as you'll ever find. For bricks, you can also stuff a Technic axle in the tubes, as [illustrated here](http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=1733888). Simple and efficient.
  
  ---
  
  Another edit, this time answering the question with the intended stud direction.  
  On a 2x4 brick/plate, place a [3185 — Fence 1 x 4 x 2](http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/3185), then add two [87580 — Plate 2 x 2 with 1 Stud](http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/87580) with the stud facing down in one of the empty holes of the fence. This is probably the smallest offset you'll get, but the thickness of the fence isn't really standard, so whether it's useful or not depends on the rest of your creation.
  
  If you're willing, there's also the [Clikits Bead, Ring Thick Small with Hole](http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=clikits003) which accepts a stud in both directions.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_5**: Just a note on the edit - neither of those techniques would work to answer the question "How do I end up with studs together" - both the levers and axles methods result in "Studs facing out"  
  > **username_4**: Right, I had stored the question in a corner of my mind where it evidently got corrupted (I need to tidy up the place sometimes). 4081b has the same isue, as a matter of fact. But most of the time it's more or less the same issue anwyay.  
  > **username_5**: I know that feeling ;)  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_3 on 2014-07-07. Score: 9
  
  This is very old-school, but that's how I was doing SNOT in the early 80's: a plate, or a tile (as shown) snaps between 2 studs. I prefer tiles to plates, as I don't have studs-alignment issues, but I've used both, and both work.
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/wXhfj.jpg)
  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_6 on 2012-03-06. Score: 6
  
  Using Technic beams can work in this situation. As the holes are the diameter of a stud and are deeper than two studs' height, it can be used to some extent. See [When did Lego decide that it was okay to put a stud into a technic hole?](https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/203/when-did-lego-decide-that-it-was-okay-to-put-a-stud-into-a-technic-hole) for more information on the limitations of this strategy.
  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_7 on 2011-10-25. Score: 6
  
  I have never found a solution that I was completely pleased with (and gluing is a no-go), but the closest I've ever come is using [these](http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=47905).
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/Jc88A.jpg)
  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_8 on 2020-04-24. Score: 4
  
  I came up with this
  
  (6 plates / 2 bricks)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/1B4ZE.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/1B4ZE.jpg)
  
  Blue = Plate 1 x4
  
  Orange = Plate 2 x4
  
  White = Tile 1 x4
  
  Yellow = Tile 2 x 4
  
  DkblGray = [Bracket 1 x 2 - 1 x 2 Inverted](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=99780#T=C)
  
  also this
  (2 plates thick)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/lGjgA.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/lGjgA.jpg)
  
  [Part# 15535 : Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Hole](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=15535#T=C)
  
  and
  [Part# 18674 : Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Open Stud](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=18674#T=C)
  
  * This one i saw somewhere else
  
  ("2.5" plates thick)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/SRPwm.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/SRPwm.jpg)
  
  [Part# 18654 : Technic, Pin Connector Round 2/3 L](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=18654#T=C)
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_9**: Great answer. I would probably also add the height/thickness of the layer used to connect 2x4 bricks together. Like "6 plates / 2 bricks" for the first one, "2 plates" for second one and "2.5" plates for last.  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_10 on 2014-07-07. Score: 2
  
  You can wedge a 1xN plate between studs (at a 90 degree angle) to the "normal" orientation. Repeat a second time, and now 2 bricks are stud-to-stud.
  
  
  ---
  
  