Answers.Body: <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/zyXNH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/zyXNH.jpg" alt="cow's udder" /></a><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/B8C7M.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/B8C7M.jpg" alt="bulldog" /></a>
  <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/l2Xt0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/l2Xt0.jpg" alt="elephant Nano" /></a>
  <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/6f9zo.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/6f9zo.jpg" alt="Orca, Lego &amp; Nano" /></a>
  <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/LXYcj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/LXYcj.jpg" alt="back ends of elephants" /></a></p>
  <p>I was thinking that Nanoblocks are the same height as Lego plates, not counting the stud. I've built a church from Lego, then tried to build one just as big using Nanoblocks: it having a 30-brick tall tower, but found it to be about 1 brick short, so I estimate Nanoblocks are 3•1mm tall which is what it says on LNO Nanoblocks box, with double height 6•3, guess they expect a 0•1 gap. The 5mm given as their height includes the stud.</p>
  <p>So 2 Lego plates will be just over twice as tall as Nanoblocks. One may as well do each level of Nanoblocks as the 2 Lego plates levels using joins in differing places. 1st layer Lego plate, then bricks where also wanted for 2nd layer of Nano, then finish 1st layer Nano with 2nd layer of Lego plate, or maybe start with bricks.</p>
  <p>Kawada Nano Block of Japan don't use tubes, but a ridge. This lets the brick below to be positioned anywhere along its length. It is the same with the 1×x pieces as they have no bars. Lego tiles 1×2 with 1 stud &amp; 1×3 with 2 studs can position under their studs if they have groove.</p>
  <p>Looking at building a Lego elephant from Nano instructions, it uses 1×4's with round ends. These Lego plates are only in 1 set. To be able to move the ears back to ~45°, I considered using hollow bricks, so square end bricks could turn like a round 1 can. A panel corner 1×1 does the job &amp; needs to be mounted 1 plate lower so the corner of the brick is over its base.
  Back of Lego elephant, black = 1×3 +2 studs &amp; groove, white = 1×2 +1 stud &amp; groove, yellow = 1×2 +1 stud normal &amp; grey = 2×2 corner. There be 2 ways of doing the top part of legs. Used plate 6×x &amp; so not hollow. Nano, red when I've not dark gray, 2×2 corner as not Kawada.</p>
  <p>Photo of orca (killer whale), I do not have the right Lego ball joints, see 1 full brick on fin, some clone brand, 2nd black from front are 2 1×3's with 2 studs with 1×2's atop (I've none for the Nano, so got there a 1×3 atop).</p>
  <p>As for T shape, as 2 layer, 1 using 1×3 &amp; other 2×2 corner both with a 1×1.
  Bulldog, from Wise Hawk, full brick for mouth with top part hidden for Lego.</p>
  <p>With the beagle dog there is a 1×2 at 90° under centre of a 1×4, as can't be seen can use a 1×2 with holes as its hollow studs fit to bars. Maybe use a 1×2 slope. (Has a 1×1 atop, so full brick &amp; plate for 2 Nano.)
  Cow's udder, this = 2×3 central under 3×4, if 3×4 brick used then no problem as 2×3 fits to tubes, but slope or 2 of 2×3 wedge won't do, with 1 row of studs okay. Other way is 1×3's with 2studs across mid 2 'then 2 other way under,</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2023-04-12T16:37:36.757Z
Answers.Text: Hi Andrew, I tried to fix up your answer, but at certain places I could only guess at your intended meaning. Please take a look at my edits and fix anything I might have gotten wrong or missed altogether. And I'd appreciate if the next time you could use a bit more professional language, including but not limited to proper punctuation, complete sentences and full words. That way your intention would be clear even without copyediting. Thanks!
Answers.UserDisplayName: zovits
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2023-04-08T13:22:44.890Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2023-10-24T17:00:48.650Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2023-10-24T17:00:48.650Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Andrew Hodson
Answers.Body: <p>If you want more exact measurements, this <a href="https://tinyworkshops.com/nanoblock-vs-lego/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Nanoblock vs Lego article</a> shows the exact figures for 1x1 pieces from each brand, not including the studs:</p>
  <p>Nanoblock: 3.8 x 3.8 x 3mm</p>
  <p>Lego: 7.8 x 7.8 x 9.6mm</p>
  <p>That means they're just under half the width and 1/3 the height.</p>
  <p>However, you can also see from the images in the link that a standard Nanoblock piece is just a hair shorter than a standard Lego plate (3.2mm), not including the studs.</p>
  <p>Therefore, if you simply use two stacked plates instead of standard-height Lego pieces, you can easily replicate Nanoblock builds using Lego by doubling the other dimensions. This is also a better solution to match color profiles.</p>
  <p>Of course, this doesn't solve other problems, like the lack of L-shaped pieces and different locking mechanisms, but those should be easy to overcome with a few simple design changes.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2023-10-23T20:57:58.043Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2023-10-23T20:57:58.043Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Nick Rowan
Body: <p>Had anyone attempted and had any success in converting a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanoblock" rel="noreferrer">nanoblocks</a> build to use LEGO bricks?</p>
  <p>On the horizontal plane, the nanoblocks bricks seem to be half the size of LEGO bricks (4mm x 4mm versus 8mm x 8mm), so a purely 2D model could be simply reproduced at double (or four time considering the area) the size.</p>
  <p>However, I am finding it harder to determine how to scale the two vertically - nanoblocks quote a height of 5mm, but this is to the top of the stud rather than the height of the brick, which seems to be roughly half as high. This means nanoblock scaled up to the same width would be half the height of LEGO bricks. So perhaps replacing every nanoblocks 1x1 brick with a LEGO 2x2 would work?</p>
  <p>Another problem is that nanoblocks produce a 'T' shaped piece which LEGO is missing, but this could be much easier to work around.</p>
  <p>Has anyone experimented with this and have any conclusions?</p>
  <p>[I'll tag this with clone brands, but I don't think nanoblocks actually qualifies as a clone (different size, not compatible)!]</p>
  
Tags: <building><clone-brands><scale>
Title: Converting Nanobocks builds to LEGO
UserDisplayName: Neil Tarrant
ThreadText: # Converting Nanobocks builds to LEGO
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2023-01-03)
  
  Had anyone attempted and had any success in converting a [nanoblocks](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanoblock) build to use LEGO bricks?
  
  On the horizontal plane, the nanoblocks bricks seem to be half the size of LEGO bricks (4mm x 4mm versus 8mm x 8mm), so a purely 2D model could be simply reproduced at double (or four time considering the area) the size.
  
  However, I am finding it harder to determine how to scale the two vertically - nanoblocks quote a height of 5mm, but this is to the top of the stud rather than the height of the brick, which seems to be roughly half as high. This means nanoblock scaled up to the same width would be half the height of LEGO bricks. So perhaps replacing every nanoblocks 1x1 brick with a LEGO 2x2 would work?
  
  Another problem is that nanoblocks produce a 'T' shaped piece which LEGO is missing, but this could be much easier to work around.
  
  Has anyone experimented with this and have any conclusions?
  
  [I'll tag this with clone brands, but I don't think nanoblocks actually qualifies as a clone (different size, not compatible)!]
  
  **Tags:** building, clone-brands, scale
  
  
  ---
  
  ## 2 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_1 on 2023-04-08. Score: 2
  
  [![cow's udder](https://i.sstatic.net/zyXNH.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/zyXNH.jpg)[![bulldog](https://i.sstatic.net/B8C7M.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/B8C7M.jpg)
  [![elephant Nano](https://i.sstatic.net/l2Xt0.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/l2Xt0.jpg)
  [![Orca, Lego & Nano](https://i.sstatic.net/6f9zo.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/6f9zo.jpg)
  [![back ends of elephants](https://i.sstatic.net/LXYcj.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/LXYcj.jpg)
  
  I was thinking that Nanoblocks are the same height as Lego plates, not counting the stud. I've built a church from Lego, then tried to build one just as big using Nanoblocks: it having a 30-brick tall tower, but found it to be about 1 brick short, so I estimate Nanoblocks are 3•1mm tall which is what it says on LNO Nanoblocks box, with double height 6•3, guess they expect a 0•1 gap. The 5mm given as their height includes the stud.
  
  So 2 Lego plates will be just over twice as tall as Nanoblocks. One may as well do each level of Nanoblocks as the 2 Lego plates levels using joins in differing places. 1st layer Lego plate, then bricks where also wanted for 2nd layer of Nano, then finish 1st layer Nano with 2nd layer of Lego plate, or maybe start with bricks.
  
  Kawada Nano Block of Japan don't use tubes, but a ridge. This lets the brick below to be positioned anywhere along its length. It is the same with the 1×x pieces as they have no bars. Lego tiles 1×2 with 1 stud & 1×3 with 2 studs can position under their studs if they have groove.
  
  Looking at building a Lego elephant from Nano instructions, it uses 1×4's with round ends. These Lego plates are only in 1 set. To be able to move the ears back to ~45°, I considered using hollow bricks, so square end bricks could turn like a round 1 can. A panel corner 1×1 does the job & needs to be mounted 1 plate lower so the corner of the brick is over its base.
  Back of Lego elephant, black = 1×3 +2 studs & groove, white = 1×2 +1 stud & groove, yellow = 1×2 +1 stud normal & grey = 2×2 corner. There be 2 ways of doing the top part of legs. Used plate 6×x & so not hollow. Nano, red when I've not dark gray, 2×2 corner as not Kawada.
  
  Photo of orca (killer whale), I do not have the right Lego ball joints, see 1 full brick on fin, some clone brand, 2nd black from front are 2 1×3's with 2 studs with 1×2's atop (I've none for the Nano, so got there a 1×3 atop).
  
  As for T shape, as 2 layer, 1 using 1×3 & other 2×2 corner both with a 1×1.
  Bulldog, from Wise Hawk, full brick for mouth with top part hidden for Lego.
  
  With the beagle dog there is a 1×2 at 90° under centre of a 1×4, as can't be seen can use a 1×2 with holes as its hollow studs fit to bars. Maybe use a 1×2 slope. (Has a 1×1 atop, so full brick & plate for 2 Nano.)
  Cow's udder, this = 2×3 central under 3×4, if 3×4 brick used then no problem as 2×3 fits to tubes, but slope or 2 of 2×3 wedge won't do, with 1 row of studs okay. Other way is 1×3's with 2studs across mid 2 'then 2 other way under,
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_2**: Hi username_1, I tried to fix up your answer, but at certain places I could only guess at your intended meaning. Please take a look at my edits and fix anything I might have gotten wrong or missed altogether. And I'd appreciate if the next time you could use a bit more professional language, including but not limited to proper punctuation, complete sentences and full words. That way your intention would be clear even without copyediting. Thanks!  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_3 on 2023-10-23. Score: 1
  
  If you want more exact measurements, this [Nanoblock vs Lego article](https://tinyworkshops.com/nanoblock-vs-lego/) shows the exact figures for 1x1 pieces from each brand, not including the studs:
  
  Nanoblock: 3.8 x 3.8 x 3mm
  
  Lego: 7.8 x 7.8 x 9.6mm
  
  That means they're just under half the width and 1/3 the height.
  
  However, you can also see from the images in the link that a standard Nanoblock piece is just a hair shorter than a standard Lego plate (3.2mm), not including the studs.
  
  Therefore, if you simply use two stacked plates instead of standard-height Lego pieces, you can easily replicate Nanoblock builds using Lego by doubling the other dimensions. This is also a better solution to match color profiles.
  
  Of course, this doesn't solve other problems, like the lack of L-shaped pieces and different locking mechanisms, but those should be easy to overcome with a few simple design changes.
  
  
  ---
  
  