Ethnic wrap garment worn by men in the Indian subcontinent
The dhoti, also known as mardani, jaiñboh, or panche, is an ankle-length breechcloth, wrapped around the waist and the legs, in resemblance to the shape of trousers. The dhoti is a garment of ethnic wear for men in the Indian subcontinent. The "dhoti" is fashioned out of a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, usually around 5 yards or long.
The "dhoti" is considered to be the male counterpart of the "saari", worn by females to religious &amp; secular ceremonies (functions). A is a yellow silk dhoti worn on auspicious occasions. Dhotis must not be confused with "readymade panchakachams" or "dhoti pants", which are a new ready to wear trend, popular among women and typical of children. Although the terms "mundu" or "veshti" are used interchangeably with "dhoti", they are different from the dhoti, which is "looped" or wrapped around the legs, in the form of trousers or pants. The dhoti is better known as panchakacham in South India, which may even be worn while doing dances such as moonwalks, but the skirt-like form of the "veshti" has its limitations, according to fashionistas. While the saari is still draped by women as daily wear, most Indian men no longer know how to wrap the dhoti, as it has been displaced by the "English clothes" of the British, in urban areas like Bombay (Mumbai).
Etymology.
It is also referred to as "dhautra" (IPA: /dʱɑwtɽɐ/) in Sanskrit, which means rope or cord. The dhoti evolved from the ancient "antriya", which was passed through the legs, tucked at the back and covered the legs loosely, then flowed into long pleats at front of the legs, the same way it is worn today as formal dhoti. While a casual and short dhoti wraps around both legs firmly, in this style the back side of the dhoti is pulled to the front and tucked at the waist, before tucking the two loose ends at back, creating firmly fitted trouser-like dhoti that wraps around both legs. This style is more commonly worn by farmers and martial artists.
Names and styles.
The garment is known by various names based on language, such as:
Custom and usage.
The "pancha" is worn by many conservative Jain men when they visit "derasars" or "basadi"s for puja; unstitched clothing is believed by some Jains to be "less permeable to pollution" and therefore more appropriate for religious rituals than other garments. They also wear a loose and unstitched cloth, shorter than the "pancha" on top.
International Society for Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON), known for its distinctive dress code, prompts Western adherents to wear "pancha", usually of saffron or white cloth folded in ethnic Bengali style. Maharishi Mahesh Yogi was known for wearing a white silk dhoti. Traditionally, men wear the dhoti topless (without upper garments), while entering certain "mandirs" (Hindu temples) in South India, because stitched garments supposedly counter the energy of the idol.
The "dhoti" has been ethnically worn by farmers, "pehlwano" (wrestlers) &amp; shepherds (grazers) of Sikhs in the Punjab region; it was discouraged during the Punjab Subah Movement, owing it to the inter-communal tensions prevalent at the time. The "dhothi" was also worn by South Canarese Christian men to their pre-nuptial ceremonies, Church weddings &amp; receptions until the 1960s, when they fell out of favour; since then grooms have been styling the black suit and tie instead.
There's a distinction between the lungi, a similar garment often worn by people at their homes, as it is more casual and comfortable, the dhoti however is considered formal, it is sometimes worn by politicians.
At the height of the Indian Independence Movement, weaving was a symbol of the "Swadeshi Movement". In 1921, the famed M K Gandhi himself championed only the "dhoti" often topless, without a kurta, to promote and identify with the handicrafts produced by the rural &amp; the poor of his homeland.
See also.
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References.
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