Lego RC Tatra 815-7 8x8
Introduction: Lego RC Tatra 815-7 8x8
Hello, in this instructable I will show you how to make a fully functional model of the Tatra 815-7 8x8 from only legos. This project took around a month to build and contains over 1800 parts. It can be driven and steered from a lego IR receiver.
Throughout this instructable, you will see the name of a part and then its part number: e.g., "axle 6 (3706)."
If there are any errors in this instructable, please let me know.
Supplies
Legos (A full parts list is available at the end of the instructions)
The instructions for this model are too large to be put on Instructables (85 MB). They are available on Rebrickable.
Step 1: Chassis Part 1 (Steps 1-64)
This is the first part of the chassis. It is driven and steered.
Notes:
In step 58, there is a connection between two universal joints, but I was not able to render this connection.
There are several instances in which parts of the build are mirrored. Make sure you mirror, instead of making an exact copy.
Step 2: Chassis Part 2 (steps 65-115)
This is the second part of the chassis. It contains the six Lego L motors that power the vehicle.
Notes:
There are several instances in which parts will have to be moved to insert other pieces. Such as in step 86, where the first two motors must be moved forward to be able to attach the next two motors.
When building the transmission (Steps 67-83), remember to slide the technic driving ring (18947) to the side with the red gear (18946).
In the photos above, this section of the chassis is disconnected from the rest of the chassis. This was only done for the photos. Do not build it this way, follow the instructions.
Step 3: Chassis Part 3 (steps 116-156)
This is the third part of the chassis. It is driven, but not steered.
Notes:
There are several instances in which parts of the build are mirrored. Make sure you mirror, instead of making an exact copy.
In the photos above, this section of the chassis is shown with wheels. 226
This may be done now to test the suspension and drive, but I recommend removing the wheels until the end of the build.
Step 4: Chassis Part 4 (steps 157-179)
This is the final part of the chassis. It is mostly stabilization as well as insertion of the battery packs and receivers.
Notes:
Do not connect any of the wires yet, this will be described in the next step.
Step 5: Wiring
Each end of a wire has a colored dot on it: match the dots by color. For the motors, each is labeled by its position (Top, Middle, Bottom).
Notes:
There is an extension wire (8886) in this step. It is not rendered in the instructions. Use it in this step.
Step 6: Fenders (steps 180-231)
The fenders are pretty straightforward, but proved challenging to build without the wheels hitting them while driving.
Notes:
The picture above is of the completed model, but is only meant to show the fenders.
Step 7: Cab (steps 232-500)
The cab is quite complex in some areas, so be sure to build it carefully. It has two seats and a working steering wheel.
Notes:
Remember to correctly align the steering wheel.
There are several instances in which parts will have to be moved to insert other pieces.
Step 8: Wheels and Side Loads (steps 501-516)
The side loads, as simple as they seem, took several tries to build accurately. The wheels however, were very simple.
Notes:
Remember to build the ninth wheel (spare wheel) separately.
Step 9: The Remote
There are separate instructions for the remote. See below.
Step 10: Comparison to Original
Above is an image of the original compared to mine. It surprised me how realistic it looked.
Step 11: Videos
Some videos of it in action. Notice how well the suspension reacts to the terrain.
Step 12: Conclusion
Overall, I really enjoyed this project. I'm still surprised that it looks so real. I think I was able to add all of the features that I hoped to include.
A few specs:
Parts: 1838
Motors: 7
Time to build: 1 month
Design software: studio 226