Remote Control Arduino Car
Introduction: Remote Control Arduino Car
A great introductory project for those diving into the IoT and Arduino platform. Working with motors and an IR sensor helps newbies understand various components and sensors compatible with the Arduino. Using the remote control, you will be able to control the robot's movement allowing the robot to move in straight lines or turn based on human input.
Created by <PERSON>, an upcoming Computer Science major at the University of California, Riverside. <PERSON> is an ambitious individual looking to study further in computer science with a deep interest in microcontroller and microprocessing technologies.
Supplies
* Arduino Uno
* 400 Point Solderless Breadboard
* Caster Wheel (Universal Wheel)
* 2 x TT Motors (1:48 Gearbox)
* 2 x TT Motor Wheels with Slotted Inserts
* 2 x 2 AA Cell Battery Holder
* 4 x AA 1.5 V Batteries
* L293D Motor Driver
* IR Sensor with Remote
* Assortment of Jumper Cables
* Double Sided 3M Tape
* Soldering Iron with Solder
* Heat Shrink / Electrical Tape
* Screw Driver
* 3D Printer (Ender 3 V2 used)
Step 1: CAD: Designing the Base
When designing the base, there are a few points to consider. One of the main challenges is spacing and ensuring everything is able to fit including wires. Common designs including starting with a circle or square and developing a base that accommodates your needs.
Starting with a circle extruded 6 mm, I first accommodated for the wheels. With a 66 mm diameter and a tire width of 26 mm, I was able to remove a significant portion of the circle to ensure the wheels had enough room to move around and would not get caught upon other electronics or parts of the base.
On the other side of the circle (the underside), the holes for mounting the caster wheel were made. The caster wheel used had dimensions of 33mm x 27mm. These holes are unique in the sene that they are threaded holes which the screws perfectly fit into. Using this excellent guide by <PERSON>, Given that I was using M3 standard screws, I was able to create holes 3 mm wide and adopt the concept and create the helix with a 0.5 mm pitch that ran clockwise. As per the equilateral triangle, the side length was 0.45 mm and I performed sweep on the path of the helix. Repeating this process 4 times, I was able to create my caster wheel mount.
The same concept was applied for the mounting holes of the Arduino. However, this time, standoff-like cylinders were created to allow the Arduino to sit comfortably as the soldered joints on the bottom of the Arduino would prevent a flush mount. An excellent reference image depicts the various holes on the Arduino and their dimensions.
Lastly, 3 holes were created and spread throughout the base to allow or convenient cable management. 949
Given the battery's position on the bottom, two holes on either ends will allow the battery terminals to be connected to the breadboard and Arduino. These holes were dimensioned at 5 mm to allow a wire to comfortably it through. The hole near the center is to allow wires coming from the motors to be connected to the L293D motor driver. The hole was dimensioned at 12 mm to allow at least 4 wires to fit through comfortably. I finally used a 5 mm filet on the sharp corners to smooth out any rough edges.
Step 2: Assembly: Putting Everything Together
Using 4 x M3-6 screws, we can first attach the caster wheel. When attaching the wheel, we need to ensure that the wheel is facing the opposite direction of the makeshift standoffs we created for the Arduino.
If the TT motors do not have wires already soldered onto the leads, then solder the wires prior to fixing them to the base. We will be placing the motors on the "stem" of the mushroom shape. Preferably, the leads of the motor should be facing inward to avoid interference with the wheels, we have placed the red terminals closer to the base as this will make our coding more consistent later on. You may choose to change up the configuration, however, be aware that changes in code will need to reflect accordingly. Using 3mm tape we can attach the motor to its position. Ensure to place both motors prior to prevent the motors from not having enough space and interfering with one another. We can now attach the wheels on the ends of the TT motors and thread the wires through the 12 mm hole near the center.
Moving onto the batter holders, we first need to attach them in a series configuration before fixing them to the base. Attach one of the positive terminals (usually red) to a negative terminal of the other battery holder (usually black). Solder the wires together and use heat shrink or electrical tape to conceal the solder joint. 259