How To Make A Dodecagonal Wall Clock
Let's build a straightforward but distinctive dodecagon-shaped analog wooden clock while learning about various types of wood. An enjoyable woodworking project to display on your preferred wall.
Materials: Hardwoods like mahogany, rosewood, teak, ash, and oak were used to make the clock pieces.
> Wood for Indicator - Choose as many various wood species as you can, such as pine, cedar, red heart, maple, and zebra wood.
(Be sure the wood you buy is dry and doesn't contain a lot of moisture because this could lead to cracks once you create the clock.)
> Automatic Clock Movement
> 80, 120, 240, and 320 grit sandpaper
More Lacquer
First, cut the triangles into pieces.
Start outlining the triangle on the slab of hardwood. Use a template to precisely mark 12 triangles. Use a band saw to make preliminary cuts, and then sand the leftover material to match the template.
After cutting, mark the slope on the sides and sand them using a belt or disc sander to give the piece a taper at the end. This step is optional. When the surfaces taper towards the ends, this will provide the appearance of depth. You can omit maintaining a smooth surface and simplify the operation.
Check if a dodecagon forms once all the components have been assembled. Number the pieces after matching the grains to make them appear seamless.
Creating a tongue-and-groove joint in step two
With a table saw, cut each piece 5 MM deep on both sides. Verify that the grooves are the same on both sides. To create the junction, cut twelve 3mm thick tongues in accordance with the groove.
Third: Gluing
Apply glue to the piece and the groove to attach three pieces at once. The dodecagon is then complete by joining the four quarters using glue. To connect the components, use strap clamps and masking tape. I made the error of gluing all the parts together at once, which led to gaps between a few of the pieces.
Step 4: Cutting a groove and putting strips into it
to seal the opening left by the glue. In order to provide contrast to the geometry and serve as a half-hour indicator, I chose to inlay softwood strips.
Using a circular saw and a guide, make 12 cuts along each side of the piece. With a table or band saw, cut 3MM thick strips of a softwood (Western Hemlock in this case) or contrasting color for the inlay. 431
Put them in the grooves with glue, then sand the excess.
Drilling holes and inserting dowels is step five.
For the central hole of the mechanism, mark the center from the centre of each edge. Mark the holes for the hour indicator starting from the center using a compass. For the 3, 6, 9 and 12 hour indicators, drill holes measuring Ø10 mm on the 8 pieces and Ø15 mm on the 4 pieces. For the central dowel, drill a hole measuring Ø25 MM.
Create the dowels from the various wood types in accordance with the holes. I used the disc sander to create the dowels because they were little. Apply glue and use a hand saw to trim the excess.
Routing the Back for Mechanism in Step 6
Route the rear according to the size of the mechanism in the center using a hand router and flat bit. Make a hole in the center to accommodate the clock's workings.
7th step: sanding
This is a difficult and time-consuming procedure, but it is essential. Start by sanding everything smooth and flush with 80-grit coarse sandpaper. Sand spreading outward in the direction of the wood grain from the center. Up to 330 grit, switch to a finer grit. Sand until you can touch it without detecting any lumps or uneven surfaces. I sanded it for almost four hours at 1200 grit to create a flawless, shiny finish.
Step 8: Lacquer, the final step.
As I desired a natural glossy effect, I finished with clear gloss lacquer. But, you can also choose a PU or oil finish. Apply three to four coats of lacquer and maintain sanding the surface between coats with fine grit paper. I used a cloth to apply the finish, but you could also use a brush or sprayer. Make sure to apply the finish in the wood's radial direction. 76