Handmade Jeweler's Saw
Introduction: Handmade Jeweler's Saw
I make my living as a professional jeweler and as such I use my saw a LOT.
After using several saws over the years I finally decided to make one for myself that would address the shortcomings of the saws I have.
The smaller saw shown is my daily driver. I like it because it's pretty rigid and it has adjustable tension for the blade. The blade tensioner however fits very loose in the frame and wobbles quite a bit unless it is fully tightened- and when it's fully tightened it twists to one side, putting a bend in the blade.
The second saw shown is typically referred to as a "German saw." These saw are formed from flat steel. The cutting depth is much greater than my daily use saw but it's nowhere near as rigid and there's no blade tension adjuster. With this type of saw you compress the frame and then tighten the blade clamps to set the blade tension, which is a less than ideal method.
I've seen a few saws on the market that have really nice rigid frame designs but they typically don't have any adjustment for blade length like my current saws. With my new saw design you can unthread the handle and raise the lower blade clamp, allowing you to use a shorter saw blade- no throwing away blades that have broken right at the end!
Let's get started!
Step 1: Tools and Materials
There are a lot of different ways to make a saw like this.
Instead of brass for the blade clamps you could substitute Aluminum. 215
You could replace the Aluminum frame with one cut from carbon fiber sheet to make it lighter and more rigid or maybe even try 3d printing the frame in a carbon reinforced material. The only thing that really matters is that the frame be reasonably stiff and light weight.
Materials:
1/4" thick 6061-T6 Aluminum sheet (4 3/4"" x 7 1/2") - used to make the saw frame.
1/2" x 1/2" x 1" 6061-T6 Aluminum blocks (2ea) - used to make the blade clamp mounts
3/8" diameter brass rod (about 5" length) - used to make the blade clamps and handle threaded section.
10-32 thread x 1 1/2" long stainless socket head shoulder cap screw (3ea) - used to make the adjuster knob studs.
10-32 thread x 2" long stainless socket head shoulder cap screw (1ea) - used to make the tension adjust screw
10-32 threaded stainless rod x 3" length (1ea) - used to make the lower blade clamp/handle adjuster.
1" diameter wood dowel x 5" length (1ea) - used to make the handle.
6-32 thread x 3/8" length stainless flat head socket screws (x4) - used to secure the blade clamp mounts to the frame. If you don't mind the screws sticking out you can use a 1/2" long button head or socket head cap screw and save yourself the trouble of recessing the screw head (but it won't look as pretty!)
6-32 thread x 3/16" long set screws - used in the blade clamps.
10-32 threaded brass thumb nuts (4ea) - used for the adjuster/blade securing knobs. You can also purchase premade threaded brass knobs.
I get my brass and Aluminum from a local metal recycler and the knobs/threaded hardware were purchased at a local hardware store -the total cost of materials was about $18
Tools:
Center drill
6-32 tap + drill bit
10-32 tap + drill bit
6-32 threading die
1/4" drill bit
#41 drill bit
Step drill bit (1/2" max hole size)
1/8" + 1/4" end mills
Center punch
Countersink bit
Dremel cut-off wheel
Deburring tool
Allen wrenches
Band saw
Drill press
Lathe
Benchtop mill
Belt sander
Red Loctite
Gorilla Glue super glue
This is pretty much everything I used. A drill press is essential but there are workarounds for the lathe, mill, belt sander, and band saw- I'll give some suggestions in each section. Also be sure to click on each photo as there are notes in the photos.
Step 2: Making the Saw Frame
Time to cut some metal!
The 1/4" thick Aluminum spine is the heart of this saw and is what allows it to hold the blade with such high tension. Jeweler's saws (also commonly referred to as a fret saw) use pinless blades measuring 130mm (about 5 1/8") in length. 582