Miraculous Lighthouse Lantern
Introduction: Miraculous Lighthouse Lantern
Hi everybody!
Since I was a young boy, I was fascinated by lighthouses from that moment on when I first climbed up to such a "magic" tower and saw these lights coverd with lenses and so on. Whenever it is possible I try to visit them spending my holidays at the seaside. Now I started to create my own small lighthouse lantern as you can see here in this short video.
It is magic, isn´t it? Well, now I want to present to you the mak ing of this Miraculous lighthouse lantern which is of course a steampunk light with a lot of typical construction elements in Junophor-Style. The lantern keeps a helix filament LED inside, its glass bottom is enlighted by a blue signal LED from the flash unit of a disposal camera with lights up the helix too. Colored filter glasses surround the lantern.They are joined together with bar hinges so they can be moved. When you open and move them into the right angle you can see suddenly three of these shining helix filaments through the reflection of the blue filter glasses. It is magic!!!
Hope you enjoy this project and if you like it please vote for it at the make it glow contest
With many greetings, to all of you inventors and creators of this community, stay healthy!
Aeon Junophor
Supplies
As you know I mostly work with material and parts from different scrap yards. For this project I took
a vintage junction box made of bakelite,
different Edison screw sockets from old lightbulbs
4 pcs. of lightshade screws E42
4 threaded axises of valve upper parts,
4 pcs. of brass made threaded rods M3
4 pcs. of copper tube inner diameter 3 mm, outer diameter 4 mm to cover the threaded rods
1 PET Preform with 42 mm cap, 15 cm long
1 filament helix LED
1 pc LED blue colored,
1 pcb of a disposal camera (flash unit)
1pc of plywood 18 mm 17 x17 cm
1pc of hard wood fiber
some screws bolts and nuts M3 and M4 made of brass
epoxy resin of different types.
Take care that you protect eyes, ears and hands and please wear saftey gloves, safety glasses and ear protectors if necessary, to avoid injuries.
Tools: pliers, knife, metal saw, screwdrivers, wrenches .....
Machines: power drill, lathe.
Step 1: Junction Box and Plywood Socket
First I had to clean up the old junction box with warm water plus soap and a weak brush. Then I polished the bakelite surface by hand. The top of this box needed a big hole for the old lamp socket part made of brass. 582
So I drilled a lot of small holes, cut them with an old saw blade by hand and used a dremel to finish the hole .
Then I fixed the new lantern holder bottom part with epoxy resin to the top of the junction box. The inner side of the old lamp socket part was filled up with epoxy resin too, to give more stability. Therefore I used some epoxy resin left from another project. I had to keep a hole in the middle to put the wires from the light later through. Three former holes in the junction box where the old wires came in, were filled up with some plates made of vulcanized red fiber by hand. Two holes were used to keep the new switch and the potentiometer. The front hole got a small brass gear as decoration. In the middle of the the junction box was a pin made of bakelite, which I cut of with the dremel cutting tool. Later the battery holder the flash unit, switch and potentiometer are built in.
The junction box will be opened and closed with four decorative brassmade screws. For each screw I used an old threaded axis of a valve upper part which got a new thread to screw in a piece of threaded rod M4 which was then fixed with superglue. For tis step I used the lathe.
The junction box will be fixed with screws to the plywood socket which I laquered wih line seed oil.
Step 2: How to Build the Lighthouse Lantern
I cut of the top of the PET preform to get a cylinder which keeps the helix LED filament in. A lampshade screw and a ring of hard wood fiber were fixed with epoxy resin. The lampshade screws themselves got eight holes so Icould screw all parts together.
The open top had to be closed up with a slice of cork to prevent humidity to come in.
The already open part at the other end of the preform had a screw thread which was needed to be grinded down with a dremel tool. Now it fitted perfectly into the lampshade screw. 582