A Simple Stand for an Acoustic Levitator MiniLev
Introduction: A Simple Stand for an Acoustic Levitator MiniLev
This project would not be possible with the amazing project that Dr. <PERSON> created.
https://www.instructables.com/Acoustic-Levitator/
Like all good projects, this one started out simple and grew as time went on. After reading Dr. <PERSON> intractable and realizing that there were a couple of old HC-SRO4's laying around left over from a robotics project, we decided to build one.
Several things were obvious looking at the pictures of the dual transducer design (MiniLev) and reading articles. First, if the transducers are held parallel to each other, you have a better chance of creating a consistent standing wave. Second, the distance between the transducer needs to be adjustable, while holding the transducers parallel. There was a scrap piece of 8020 on the desk being used as a paperweight. A half hour with Fusion 360, a couple of hours printing the parts, a little back-of-the-envelope math, and we were in business. The original test was done with the extrusion held in a vice on the desk. It met the first and second design criteria and produced really good results.
You hit that time when you should tear a project down and move on to the next; that didn't happen. It was too much fun to mess with, and the envelope was replaced by a notebook. However we did need the vice back, so grabbed a couple more scrap pieces, cut them down and made a base. 485
To clean up the electronics and make the design the portable (think middle school science fair), we created a platform that clipped to the extrusions in the base. This gave us design constraints number three and four. Constraint number five came when we were asked build one for the child of a friend of ours. It needed to be simple to assemble and disassemble.
Step 1: Assemble the Frame - Pick Your Method
There are three approaches to construct the frame.
* Order everything cut and tapped
* Cut and Tapp the extrusions your self
* 3D print facsimiles of the extrusions
All three methods will require extrusion end fasteners. The design calls for two but it never hurts to have extras around. They can be purchase from:
8020 - Standard End Fastener, 1/4-20 (https://8020.net/3381.html)
Tnutz - (EF-010-1/4-20) 1/4-20 Blank End Fastener Assembly (https://www.tnutz.com/product/blank-end-fastener-a...
Also needed is a 5/32 hex wrench. (https://8020.net/3342.html)
All the extrusion used in this project are 8020 series 10. The design we used calls for three cut and tapped pieces. All tappings are 1/4-20.
* A six inch piece with a hole drilled in the center of the beam
* A six inch piece with a hole drilled 0.5in from one end of the beam and the same end of the beam tapped
* A nine inch piece on tapped on one end.
If using the 3D printed options, the holes and tappings are done.
Step 2: Order Everything Cut and Tapped
The easiest way to build the frame is to order everything directly from 8020. Surprisingly for us this also had the longest lead time. It also produced the nicest looking results. The quality of the cutting, tapping and material was impeccable.
We ordered:
1 x 6 in tapped on one end, hole 0.5 in hole on same end as tapp - Four Open T-Slots (https://8020.net/1010.html)
1 x 6 in hole in center (3 in) - Single Open T-Slot (https://8020.net/shop/1001.html)
1 x 9 in tapped on one end - Two Opposite Open T-Slots (https://8020.net/shop/1004.html)
2 x Standard End Fastener, 1/4-20 1.50 (https://8020.net/3381.html)
6 x 1/4-20 Slide-in Economy T-Nut - Centered Thread(https://8020.net/3382.html)
6 x 1/4-20 x .500" Flanged Button Head Socket Cap Screw (FBHSCS) (https://8020.net/3342.html)
Step 3: Cut and Tapp the Extrusions Your Self
Ok, cutting and tapping the extrusions is the cheapest and quickest way to go. 858