Collapsible Outdoor Chair
Introduction: Collapsible Outdoor Chair
You can’t go wrong with an attractive and sturdy outdoor chair—especially one that is collapsible for storage. Now you can freshen up your patio, deck, or even poolside with a new set of chairs, one you can create on your own.
The idea behind this chair serves two purposes mobility add storability. Most of the things I make tend to be pretty heavy. What makes them difficult to transport is that they are usually bulky. Having the back detach from the seat makes it possible to split the weight and carry. I don’t always have a second set of hands to help out. There are times that I would need to pack up the furniture and store it from the harsh elements, storms, or even hurricanes. This chair design allows you to collapse in store.
If this chair interests you, I have a video below that explains this process along with this article and all the measurements you need to build your own.
Supplies
Tools used
* Miter saw
* Sander
* Drill
* Bandsaw
* Speed Square
* Beadlock Jig
* Hand Plane
* Clamps
Materials List
* (4) 4X4 Douglass fir Lumber
* Beadlock tenon 3/8 & 1/2 in tenon stock
* (1) Set of Furniture feet (optional)
* Danish oil
* Wood glue
* 80 grit, 120 grit & 220 grit Sandpaper
Step 1: Cut Lumber for the Chair
I used 4X4 lumber; you can modify this to use 2X4, but you may not have this chunky look; I will cover 4×4 lumber only in this post. Cedar is a good option; it’s lighter in weight but has a higher price tag. The lumber I’m using for this chair is Douglas Fir. I cut most of the parts down on the miter saw. The majority of the pieces are cut straight, but there are also parts cut at an angle.
I do not have access to 2X4 Douglass fir, so I split the 4X4 in two. While I use a bandsaw, a table saw could work with some extra effort. What you need to do here is set the table saw to the highest point, then run the 4X4 through the table saw blade. Flip it over, push the 4X4 through, then clean up the saw marks with a sander or hand plane.
The front section of the chair will be cut at an angle to match the sides.
I tilt the table on the bandsaw until the blade lined up with the line, I created on the end grain. A bandsaw may be the best way to cut this, but you can use a hand saw or a reciprocating saw to make this cut.
Step 2: Sand the Chair Parts and Dry Fit
This lumber is rough, now is the best time to sand; while the parts are loose. 431
I passed over it with an 80 grit sandpaper first. Then I made a second pass with 120 grit sandpaper.
For now, I got all the parts cleaned up as much as I could.
Step 3: Drill the Beadlock Mortise
I’ll be using Beadlock jig by Rockler to make up the joints, but keep in mind, you can use any joining method you find more feasible. The Beadlock system is a great way to improve joint strength when using butt joints. With all the parts sanded, I align the parts for the chairback. Then place the two sides down on a flat surface and set the slats in between. Space the parts evenly and place a center mark across the two sides and the middle parts. Do this for all parts.
Clamp the jig on and line it up the mark made. Now, if this is your first time seeing this jig, I have a full video explaining how to use this jig, see below. You can check it out on my YouTube channel. For now, let’s power through this. You will need to align the jig to the reference mark and drill the first set of holes in position “A” on the jig. Next. Set the jig to position “B” to remove the jig, clean out the mortise, and drill the rest of the holes.
With so much to drill, I figured it was easier to get these all set up so I can move from one to the next. Once all the reference line has been placed, this should go by quick. As you are drilling dry fit to make sure the parts are aligned properly.
*** Very important, before you mark and drill the slats in the seat set your spacing for Part (C) in the diagram above. Do this to make sure the back will sit properly. 785