Horizontal/Vertical Convertible CNC Table
Introduction: Horizontal/Vertical Convertible CNC Table
I recently purchased a Longmill CNC router from Sienci Labs. While awaiting its arrival I did some research on tables for the unit and found that testing showed that the Longmill performed well in the vertical configuration as well as horizontal. Having extremely limited space in my workshop, I designed a sturdy table mount that folds up against the wall vertically while still leaving the router accessible for use. The design has a 4 square foot surface to accommodate the footprint of Longmill with a working area of 30" x 30" as well as the power unit and control board; however, the dimensions could easily be adjusted for other sizes of systems if required.
Supplies
4'x8' sheets of 1/2" plywood, MDF, or Melamine. Qty: 2
4'x8' sheet of 3/4" plywood. Qry: 1
#8 x 1-1/4" flathead wood screws. Qty: +/-500
#8 x 3" flathead wood screws. Qty: +/-20
#8 x 1-1/2" flathead wood screws Qty: +/-50
1" diameter x 36" Long hardwood dowel. Qty: 1
2" x 4" x 8' Qty: 1
2 Small Pulleys Blocks, 2 carabiners and Nylon Rope https://www.amazon.ca/TooTaci-Pulley-Swivel-Hangin...
1-1/2" Fender washers. Qty: 2
1/4" x 3" Eye Lag Bolts. Qty: 2
OPTIONAL SPOILBOARD SYSTEM
1/4" - 20 tpi Flathead Machine Screws. Qty: 84
1/4" 20 tpi Threaded Inserts. Qty: 84
48" x 48" x 3/4" MDF sheet. Qty: 1
30" Bi-fold Door Tracks Qty: 7
Step 1: Build the Bottom of the Tabletop
The tabletop consists of a torsion box frame sandwiched between two 48" x 48" x 1/2" sheets, glued and screwed. 431
I used MDF for the bottom and Melamine for the top because it is extremely flat; however, in retrospect plywood would have been a better choice because the spoilboard will be dressed flat by the CNC anyway, and using plywood would have reduced the weight of the table significantly. Still, either material will work.
The tabletop is made entirely of 1/2" thick material. The outer frame consists of the front and back outer frame 2-1/2" wide by 48" long. The sides are made of two pieces 2-1/2" wide by 47" long. The front and back are screwed to the sides with two 1-1/4" screws at each corner. The frame is then secured to the perimeter of the bottom sheet with #8 x 1-1/4" screws approximately every 4 inches.
***Pre-drill and countersink all screw holes. This is especially critical when using MDF, melamine or plywood to prevent splitting.
The front dowel pin holes are centered top to bottom and 6-1/2" in from the front edge. 4" x 2-1/2" x 1-1/8" thick support blocks are glued and screwed in place on the outside, also centered on the dowel pin with matching 1" hole for the pin. This provides the proper offset to allow clearance for the swing arm and adds bearing surface for the dowel pins.
Step 2: Make the Stiffeners
Cut the 8 pieces for the stiffeners. All 1/2" plywood 2-1/2" wide, 47" long. Using a dado stack set to 1/2" wide, cut the 4 notches in each stiffener every 9 inches,1-1/4" deep.
Step 3: Tabletop and Torsion Box
Add the rear sliding dowel pins by first adding 1-1/2" of support blocking on the inside of the rear corners the length is not critical but needs to be at least 3" long and must be 2-1/2" tall to fit snugly between the top and bottom panels. Glue and screw the support blocking being careful to keep the screws well clear of the location where the pin hole will be drilled. Using a 1" Forstner bit, drill the pin hole centered top to bottom and 1-1/2" in from the rear of the table on both sides. Drill and screw down through the table top to secure the dowel. 56