$21 Glass Dry Erase Board (24" X 36")
Introduction: $21 Glass Dry Erase Board (24" X 36")
1. Hate spending good money on cheap dry erase boards that don't last?
2. Wish you could hang them securely on the wall without drilling holes or needing nails?
3. Always losing the markers and/or eraser?
Well, this is the project for you. With the following supplies I'll show you how to make and hang this large glass dry erase board.
I chose this size (Lowes has many different sizes available) since the aspect ratio is close to that needed for the 5 by 7 grid shown in the calendar version I made.
CAUTION: This project uses a standard unfinished (sharp edges) piece of non-tempered plate glass. Please be extremely cautious when handling it. Use gloves and be very gentle. If it breaks, it will break into dangerous sharp shards, not the tiny pebble size chunks that automotive (or "Safety") glass does.
Supplies
1. Glass (I got mine from Lowes for $16.68)
2. 3M Command Strips ($4.27)
3. Hook Side of some Self-Adhesive Velcro (Had on hand so free)
4. 3D Printed Parts (PLA, material cost <$1)
5. Paint (OPTIONAL)
6. Pin-striping Tape (OPTIONAL)
7. Gorilla Brand Heavy Duty Duct Tape (AS REQUIRED)
TOOLS:
1. 3D Printer
2. Tape Measure
3. 74
Level
4. Gloves
5. Tape, Tarp, or Other Painting Supplies as Needed
Step 1: Print the Parts
I designed these in Autodesk's Fusion 360 CAD software.
(Image above shows both of the two mirrored parts)
The parts are labelled for the four corners they go to:
BL TR = Bottom Left & Top Right
BR TL = Bottom Right & Top Left
Print two of each. Print orientation will be the same as it is mounted to the wall. Supports will be needed (touching build-plate only). Infill 20% or higher. Any material will work. I used Overture PLA Pro.
Step 2: Temporarily Secure Glass to Wall
WANT TO PAINT? If so, do that prior to this step.
PAINT NOTE1: If you choose to paint the backside of the glass allow at least 24 hours for it to fully dry (any type of paint). I used rattle cans and it took at least 6 layers to fully coat the glass (1.5 full cans worth). So I might try some normal paint and roll on one coat if I make another one.
PAINT NOTE2: Don't put a really thick coat of paint on or the 3D printed parts may not properly secure to the wall since the gap designed into the part is set to the thickness of the glass with a small amount of room for tolerance and unevenness of the wall, but with a thick layer of paint the part may not properly adhere to the wall.
PAINT IDEA: I was curious to see what this would look like if you painted the glass the same color as the wall compared to no paint at all. Please post a make if anyone does this.
Use the Gorilla duct tape to temporarily position the glass on the wall in your desired location as shown in the image above (leave enough room so the parts won't overlap the tape). Use a level to either level the glass as you're securing it or mark a pencil line that can be erased later.
Step 3: Final Securing
I designed the parts to each use three of the command strips listed is the supplies section (12 total). They are 16mm wide by 27.5mm tall (the area with the adhesive).
TIP1: Separate the command strips into individual pieces before adhering to the 3D printed part. Do NOT adhere three connected strips all at once. If you do you will have to pull all three strips simultaneously if you ever want to remove them. (And from personal experience its impossible!)
TIP2: Pay attention to the direction you are adhering the strips to the part and to which corner you are working on so you don't put them on in the wrong direction.
Step1: Prep the two mating surfaces of your wall and the 3D printed parts per the 3M instructions
Step2: Remove the blue backer paper and adhere the strips to the 3D printed parts first.
Step3: Remove the black backer paper and slowly line up the part to the corner of the glass starting with the two lower locations first. Press them firmly into place.
Step4: Repeat for the top two locations. 959