TICO – Tic -Tac-Toe Arduino Robot
Introduction: TICO – Tic -Tac-Toe Arduino Robot
TICO is a 3D printed, Arduino-powered Tic-Tac-Toe robot that inspires kids to learn code, robotics, and electronics.
In this intractable, I will explain how to print and assemble Tico. Then, we’ll provide a working code that can bring Tico to life and ready to play.
The initial design of Tico was inspired by the popular Plot clock project.
Supplies
Marker
Tico was designed to hold the following Shuttle Art marker:
https://www.amazon.com/Shuttle-Art-Magnetic-Whiteboard-Dry-Erase/dp/B086W55NRY/
You can use other small whiteboard markers as well. However, they may require some adjustments.
Eraser
Prepare the eraser by cutting a small piece of cloth from a standard whiteboard eraser and sticking it onto the 3D printed eraser part (hot glue will work great).
Screws
To connect the 3D printed parts together you will need the following M3 screws:
7 X M3 | 12mm
2 X M3 | 14mm
4 X M3 | 8mm
You will also need 7 X M3 Nylon nuts (regular nuts will also work).
Electronics
The Arduino code below uses various electronic components to provide an excellent game experience. However, many of these components are optional, where you can start with just the Arduino and the servos if you'd like.
* Arduino Nano microcontroller.
* 3 X MG90S Metal servos(It is possible but not recommended to use the SG90 plastic servos).
* 38 KHz IR receiver.
* IR remote (this one is recommended but your regular TV remote can work as well).
* 3 X AA / AAA batteries and a battery holder
* Button module
* ST7735 TFT Display - The display we used in our photos is blue and not red, this is not as this is the same screen. Be sure to use a screen with ST7735 controller.
* 5V passive buzzer
Step 1: 3D Printing Parts
3D print the included parts. 832
There is no need for support and printing time is about 2 hours.
I recommend printing the arms in a different color (orange part in the photo).
The board part should be printed in white.
Step 2: Prepare Board
The board part should be printed in white and then covered with clear packing tape as shown in the the photo below (the tape will make it very easy to erase the board between games)
Step 3: LIFT Servo
Take one of the plastic servo arms (included in the servo bag) and drill a 3mm hole in the center of it.
Use a cutter to make the arm shorter.
Attach the two parts using a 12mm screw and nut as shown in the photos below (orientation is important!)
Do not tighten the screw. The parts should be able to rotate against each other freely.
Attach the LIFT servo to the base using two screws included in the servo bag.
Important: Connect the servo to an Arduino and rotate it to 80 degrees. Only after doing this, attach the arm to the servo, like shown in the photos.
The angle between the servo and the arm should be 90 degrees as shown in the photos (this is important).
Step 4: LEFT/RIGHT Servos
Attach the servos to the holder as shown in the photos below (orientation is important!).
Attach the RIGHT/LEFT servos holder to the LIFT servo arm with a 12mm screw and nut.
Do not tighten the screw. The parts should be able to rotate against each other freely.
The RIGHT/LEFT servos holder should also be attached to the base using a 14mm screw and nut.
Step 5: Eraser Holder
Use 2 X 12mm screws to assemble the eraser gripper.
At this stage, you can also install the board in its place.
Step 6: Arms Assembly
Assemble the arms precisely, as shown in the photos. Use 12mm screws and nuts.
Do not tighten the screw. The parts should be able to rotate against each other freely.
Do not put the arms on the servos (we will do it soon).
Inside the servo bag are two additional plastic arms that we haven’t used yet.
Use a cutter to make them “one-sided,” as shown in the photos.
Important: Connect the servos to an Arduino and rotate them to 130 degrees (left servo) and 140 degrees (right servo). 259