Darth 3.0: a 3D Printed Animated <PERSON> Helmet.
Introduction: Darth 3.0: a 3D Printed Animated <PERSON> Helmet.
I designed and 3D printed "Darth 3.0: A 3D Printed Animated <PERSON> Helmet" for our grandkids who are Star Wars fans! This 3.0 version incorporates an ESP32, stepper motor drivers and stepper motors to provide a more complicated and programmable animation sequence.
As in my previous Darth animated helmet design, the only contact between each slice must be the pins in the slots, thus careful 3D printing (no warping) and assembly (bearings completely flush with the top and bottom of each slice) are required to successfully 3D print and assemble this model.
As usual I probably forgot a file or two or who knows what else, so if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment as I do make plenty of mistakes. Designed using Autodesk Fusion 360, sliced using Ultimaker Cura 4.8.0, and 3D printed in PLA on Ultimaker S5s.
Step 1: Parts.
I acquired the following parts:
* One Adafruit Feather ESP32 board.
* One "6PCS 28BYJ-48 Stepper Motor Kit".
* Two roller lever micro switches (Cylewet 20Pcs Momentary Hinge Metal Roller Lever Micro Switch AC 5A 125 250V SPDT 3 Pins (Pack of 20) CYT1096).
* Twenty "uxcell 6700-2RS Deep Groove Ball Bearings Z2 10mm x 15mm x 4mm Double Sealed Chrome Steel".
* Four M2 by 20mm cap screws.
* Four m2 nuts.
* One USB power supply with connector compatible with the USB connector on the ESP32 board.
I 3D printed all parts at .1mm layer height with 20% infill. I 3D printed 4 "Bolt, 4mm.stl", 4 "Bolt, Base.stl", 15 "Spacer.stl" and one each of the remaining parts.
This mechanism is a high precision print and assembly using at times very small precision 3D printed parts in confined spaces with highly precise alignment. I 3D printed all parts using the Ultimaker Cura 4.8.0 "Engineering Profile" on my Ultimaker S5s, which provides a highly accurate tolerance requiring minimal if any trimming, filing, drilling or sanding. 654
However, prior to assembly, I still test fitted and trimmed, filed, drilled, sanded, etc. all parts as necessary for smooth movement of moving surfaces, and tight fit for non moving surfaces. Depending on your slicer, printer, printer settings and the colors you chose, more or less trimming, filing, drilling and/or sanding may be required to successfully recreate this model. I carefully filed all edges that contacted the build plate to make absolutely certain that all build plate "ooze" is removed and that all edges are smooth using small jewelers files and plenty of patience.
This mechanism also uses threaded assembly, so I used a tap and die set (4mm by 1 and 8mm by 1.25) as required for thread cleaning.
Step 2: Lower Plate Assembly.
To assemble the lower plate assembly, I performed the following steps.
* Attached "Slice01 Switch, Lever, Roller, Retainer.stl" and one of the roller lever micro switch to "Plate, Lower.stl" using two M2 by 20mm cap screws and two M2 nuts as shown.
* Attached "Slice18 Switch, Lever, Roller, Retainer.stl" and the remaining roller lever micro switch to the plate assembly using two M2 by 20mm cap screws and two M2 nuts as shown.
* Attached the slice01 stepper motor to the plate assembly using two "Bolt, 4mm.stl" as shown.
* Attached the slice18 stepper motor to the plate assembly using two "Bolt, 4mm.stl" as shown.
* Pressed "Gear, Motor, Slice18.stl" onto the slice18 stepper motor as shown.
* Rotated this gear until the arm was centered on the slice18 roller lever micro switch, then carefully positioned the switch and retainer such that the switch activated with the arm centered on the roller, deactivated with the arm off the roller, and the roller did not bind with the arm. When aligned, I tightened the cap screws to hold the switch and retainer in the proper position.
* Pressed "Gear, Motor, Slice01, Arm.stl" onto the slice01 stepper motor as shown. 784