Hanging Leather Planter
Introduction: Hanging Leather Planter
In the spring, all nature comes to life. And despite the remaining snowdrifts outside the window, it's time to put the houseplants in order.
My wife recently transplanted an overgrown shoot of her favorite orchid into a new larger pot. The problem is that our flower rack holds a limited number of flowers, strictly according to the number of areas it has. And there were a little more flowers.
But I figured out how to save the situation and made a hanging leather orchid planter. Moreover, the location of the various areas just makes it easy to link.
The manufacturing process is quite simple and very exciting, as you assemble the constructor :) Try it!
Step 1: Materials & Tools
For and manufacturing we need:
1. A flower pot with a saucer - will not be damaged during the work :)
2. Metal ring with an inner diameter of about 40mm
3. Metal ring with an inner diameter of about 15mm
4. Metal triangle with side about 15mm
5. Ruler
6. Awl
7. Grinding knife
8. Just a sharp knife (or rotary)
9. Round punches 2mm and 8mm diameter
10. Beveller 1mm
11. Rivets - I have a 7mm head
12. 389
Leather. I took vegetable tanned 2mm thickness
13. Protective agent for skin and brush for application. I took Elixir from Kenda. It practically does not change the color and texture of the skin and quite well helps from water
14. 6mm diameter rope (optional)
Step 2: Marking Up the Straps
We need to mark three strips 25mm wide.
The length of the strips depends on the selected pot. I have a pot about 110mm high and 150mm in diameter at its widest point.
With such dimensions, the length of each strip should be 500-550mm. We'll cut off the excess later :)
Step 3: Cut Strips
We cut the strips carefully and without haste.
The sharper the knife, the neater strips will come out. Rotary knives are generally very good for straight cutting.
Step 4: Marking the Ring
Using a flower pot as a reference, mark how long we need a strip.
The strip should wrap around the top (wider) part of the pot. It is also worth considering that the strip itself should overlap by about 15-20mm.
Step 5: Thining
Carefully cut the strip according to the mark made in the previous step.
So that the overlap is not conspicuous, you need to thin the ends of the strip.
Thin the left and right edges by approximately the width of the overlap. For the process to go neatly and easily, the knife must be very sharp.
Important: on the one hand, we thin the front side of the skin, and on the other - the back side!
Step 6: Hole Marking
We mark the places for the holes.
First, mark the holes along the edges. When you connect them, we get a ring.
Then we divide the distance between them into 4 equal segments.
Step 7: Punching Holes
We punch all the holes marked in the last step. Diameter 2mm.
Step 8: Divide in Half
We carefully divide the remaining two stripes in half.
Thus, we have 4 strips of about 250 mm in length.
Step 9: Rounding the Corners
Round off the corners on one side of each strip. This side will be attached to the metal ring.
Step 10: Thining
Thin the reverse side of the skin where the rounding was made, 15-20 mm is enough.
This is necessary so that there is no large protrusion at the bottom.
Step 11: Bottom Holes
Mark the holes at a distance of 10 mm and 50 mm from the rounded edge. This distance is quite enough when using materials similar to mine.
Alternative: Try one strip on a large metal ring, mark in place. Transfer the markings to the remaining strips.
Punch holes 2 mm in diameter.
Step 12: Temporary Assembly
We assembly the cross from a metal ring and leather strips.
We connect everything with rivets or screws, but do not fasten it tightly, since this is a test assembly, it is only needed for fitting.
Step 13: Marking the Cross
Using the pot as a reference, mark on one strip the place where the leather ring will pass and where to make holes for the suspension.
We disassemble the crosspiece into separate elements.
Step 14: Marking the Cross Strips
We transfer the markup from the previous step to all other strips. 421