DIY 3D Printed 120mm Fume Extractor
Introduction: DIY 3D Printed 120mm Fume Extractor
Do you need to do wire soldering often? Maybe you like making artworks with your pirography tool, or painting your creations with an airbrush. In all these cases, and many others, having a practical, beautiful, and simple fume extractor can make the difference between good and bad air quality.
This extractor has been designed from scratch in order to allow using an high airflow 120mm fan, which will be more than enough for any kind of application, and couples the air funneling power with a cleaning effect given by the carbon filters stored in front of the fan.
This project pairs 3d printing with simple soldering: don't worry if you are not an expert, each step is very detailed to help new people starting their diy journey!
The 3D printing process is detailed with tips and warnings where needed on the dedicated thingiverse page!
I suggest you to read the article fully before buying supplies and starting it, as there may be details that are important to know beforehand!
Step 1: Tools
Here is a list of the tools you will need for this project:
* M3 Allen wrench or screwdriver bit
* Philips screwdriver bit
* Soldering iron and tin
* Hobby knife/scissor/wire cutter (preferred)
* (optional) two color markers, to be used for marking positive and negative wires
* Multimeter
* Lighter (for the heat shrinking tube)
* Superglue
Step 2: Hardware
Here is a list of all the hardware that you will need
* High airflow (CFM) 120mm 12V fan, I personally used this one as it has a ridiculous 200CFM and comes with an integrated fan grill120mm
* Fan grill if it doesn't come with your fan
* 2x 12.8x12.8 activated carbon filter (aliexpress)
* 12v power supply (aliexpress)
* 10x15 switch (aliexpress)
* 470 ohm resistor (aliexpress)
* Led light (aliexpress)
* 12v female socket (aliexpress)
* 8x m3 square nuts (aliexpress)
* Mini DC speed controller (aliexpress)
* 8x m3x12 bolts
* Heat shrinking tube
Step 3: (optional) Test Everything Out Beforehand
As you will see in this instructables, I like to test everything out step by step, and nothing ensures the best odds of success than having the entire circuit built beforehand!
As you can see in the schematic, this is a relatively simple circuit, composed of a DC input which will power our fan. To show that the circuit is being powered, we have an LED light, and to allow toggling the circuit on or off, we have a simple switch. As the fan is too powerful at full speed, we have a DC voltage regulator, which allows to take the input 12V and turn it down to our liking.
If you want to test everything out like I did, you can check my breadboard implementation. 98
At this step, nothing needs to be soldered, as you will need to take everything apart again.
Step 4: Get Your 3D Printer Running!
How can we have a fume extractor without an enclosure? We can't, and that's why this would be a good time to power on your 3D printer and melt some filament!
Get to the thingiverse page of this project, download all the files, read all the description, and come back when your enclosure is ready to be assembled.
Step 5: A Warning Note
All the lids that you will assemble have two sides: you can recognize them by looking at the screw holes. The side that has a larger hole will accommodate the bolt head, so it will need to go outside. Keep this in mind when attaching components to the lids as you may have to de-solder and take them off just because of an overlook.
Step 6: Back Lid Assembly (and Initial Tips)
First of all, I decided to start assembling the back lid, which namely houses the female DC connector. This will allow us to test all the new components we will attach, by using actual current to power them.
Insert the DC connector in the lid hole and screw the nut to hold it in place.
You may notice that the female connector has 3 pins to solder your wires to, but you will have to use only two wires:
If you fully tested your circuit beforehand you had to figure this out already, good.
Otherwise, take out your multimeter and put it in DC mode, connect the DC power supply to the connector and test the poles two by two. 259