Automated Bioactive Tropical Reptile Vivarium (using Arduino)
Introduction: Automated Bioactive Tropical Reptile Vivarium (using Arduino)
I have multiple bioactive tropical vivariums for my crested geckos, and I always need to spray them morning and night, as well as when the humidity is too low (which happens multiple times per day), and I have to turn on and off the lights and monitor the temperature. I've made some small projects with my Arduinos in the past, so I thought I could create an automation system for my vivariums. I have multiple vivariums, but this tutorial will walk you through the automation of just one.
Here are the elements I've decided to implement:
* Temperature-humidity sensor
* Clock/timer
* Ultrasonic fogger
* Servo door lock (so that small children can't open the doors at their leisure :))
* Water level sensor
* Lights control
* OLED Display Menu
Note: In the future, I plan to add other features such as support for multiple terrariums, an automatic mister (in addition to the fogger), and a waterfall pump, and I will either add those to this tutorial or make another one.
This vivarium can be used for many animals, not just crested geckos. Other New Caledonian geckos, dart frogs, day geckos, and some snakes could all be good options for this terrarium. However, some things, such as humidity and lighting, may need to be tweaked in the code to fit the needs of your animal.
Supplies
* Vivarium
+ This tutorial doesn't go over how to set up a vivarium, only how to automate it. Vivarium should already be set up.
* DHT22 Temperature Humidity Sensor
+ A DHT11 will also work, but it will be less accurate
* Micro Servo 9g
* Ultrasonic Mist Maker
* 2x 12V DC Fans
* DS3231 RTC Module
* 2x 2-Channel 5v Relay Module
* 128x64 OLED Screen
* Joystick Module
* Ultrasonic Distance Sensor
* Lighting system:
+ Light hood that fits your terrarium
+ 5000K daylight bulb
+ 5.0 13W UVB bulb (not necessary for crested geckos, but may be helpful)
* Power supplies:
* 12V DC Power supply
+ External power supply for fans
* 5V DC Power supply
+ External power supply for components
* 9V DC Power supply
+ Power supply for Arduino board
* 3x LEDs
* 3x 220 Ohm resistors
* 2x Generic 2-prong Extension Cord
* Power Strip
* DC Jack --> Wire adapters
* Jumper Wires
* Spritzer bottle
* Water Tub (I used a 27qt Sterilite tub from Walmart)
* Duct tape
* Foam board
* Corrugated Plastic Board
* Scrap wood or other material to make a stand for the
* 3/4" or 1" PVC Pipe
* About 2-3 ft of pipe
* Two 90 degree elbow connectors
* Tools:
* Hot Glue Gun
* 3D Printer
* Electric Drill
+ Step drill bit or hole saw if you have one
+ Drill bits
Step 1: 3D Printed Parts
Here are the stl files for 3D printing. The relay box is modular, so the boxes can slide together.
Step 2: Setting Up the Bin
First, cut a hole in the lid of the bin for an exit for the fog. 120
This should be large enough for the PVC pipe to be able to go through and fit snugly or tightly. If you have a step drill bit or a hole saw, that would work great. I don't have one of those, so I just used a utility knife and even though the holes aren't perfect, they work.
Next, drill a bunch of holes in a circle as shown in the pictures. The circle should be about as big as the 12V fan you're using. This will be where the fan blows in air to push the fog out the PVC pipe.
Then, drill or cut a hole that is large enough for the rubber piece on the fogger to fit through and seal.
These holes can be wherever on the lid you want them to be. I just put them in a line near the side for convenience. For best air flow, the fan and pipe holes should be on opposite sides of the lid.
Cut another hole about the size of the ultrasonic distance sensor module wherever you want the water level sensor tube to be.
Cut the corrugated plastic sheet into a rectangle that is about 16" long and a height of a little bit less than the height of the bin. 98