Tensegrity Planter Light
Introduction: Tensegrity Planter Light
In a previous Ible I presented the Tensegrity planter.
This update uses the same design and make process with some small additions.
The additions are in the form of Neopixel LED's fitted into the two arms of the planter sections.
These sections are connected continuously by three very thin enamelled copper wires
A Microbit is used to control the lighting patterns.
Additionally, the filament is luminous and glows for a period after the light is removed.
Supplies
Tensegrity Planter (previous Instructable)
Neopixel LED's - Qty 21 (6 + 15)
Microbit
34 SWG/31 AWG (0.236mm/0.226mm) Enamelled copper wire (ECW) or nearest equivalent, thinner wire can be used but is more fragile.
Microbit Breakout connector
M3 bolts * 6
M3 nuts * 2
Pliers
Pin header SIL * 6 pins
Pin to socket leads * 3
Socket to socket leads * 3
Veroboard
Capacitor 1000uF/6V3
Resistor 470 Ohms/1W
** No affiliation to any of the suppliers linked and listed above ***
Step 1: Tensioning Support
In order to simplify the tensioning process, I created a tensioning support out of LEGO bricks. But this could equally be made from something else subject to what ever materials are available.
It makes levelling easier as it frees your hands from having to simultaneously hold the planter whilst trying to keep the tension even and the top level.
Step 2: Through Holes
Taking a 2mm drill bit carefully drill a horizontal hole into the 2nd step from the top of the pyramid.
The drill end should protrude in to the planter cavity.
This hole will be just below the bolt fixing exit hole, this needs to be close to this hole so that the LED wires are unobtrusive and follow the support wire.
A hole is required on each pyramid.
Drill the holes carefully so as not to induce too much heat as this can clog the drill bit trapping the bit.
Step 3: LED's
Take 3 lengths (18 inches/46cm) of ECW twist the 3 lengths together at one end and feed from the outside into the cavity, use tweezers or pliers and pull half the length through. Untwist the ends and tin with solder.
Separate 6 LED's from a strip and solder the 3 lengths of ECW to V+, GND and DI.
Identify the correct wires with a DMM and mark accordingly with tape, sleeve or knots in the wire then tin the free ends of the wire and temporarily fit a 3 pin header and test that the LED's function using the Neopixel tester.
Position the LED's into the lowest part of the cavity making sure the plant holder sits at its lowest level.
Thread the other end of the 3 wires through the lower pyramid and solder to the end of the strip with the 15 LED's.
Using 3, pin to socket leads solder the pins to the end of the strip, the sockets will connect to the decoupling circuit (Resistor, Capacitor), the other end will connect to the Microbit via 3, socket to socket leads.
Again test the LED's function.
Step 4: Supporting Base
A base was created to house the microcontroller and support the planter complete with Neopixels.
This support base was created in BlocksCAD and then 3D printed.
Drill a small indentation with a 3mm drill bit coincident with the support base holes into the planter base.
The base is held in place with 4 * M3 bolts/screws which grip the planter base.
Step 5: Control
Control is based on the code used in the Candelabra which allows remote and/or manual control.
The Microbit is mounted on the supporting base that sits beneath the planter with M3 bolts.
This holds everything in place having sufficient space in the planter cavity and allows the Microbit to protrude from the back to allow access to the control buttons and the USB lead.
Step 6: Light It Up
You've put it all together, now is the time to light it up 134