Get Lost in a Good Book: a Simple Book Nook in 9 Steps
Introduction: Get Lost in a Good Book: a Simple Book Nook in 9 Steps
Have some old, damaged books? Want to bring your favorite scenery or setting into your home?
Supplies: a hardcover book, rigid foam/posterboard/heavy
duty non-corrugated cardboard, decorative paper (I used encyclopedia pages for a black and white canvas)
Tools: Glues (stick glue, hot glue, liquid Elmer’s/school glue), markers or translucent paints, x-acto knife
Step 1: Choose the Book
Find a hardcover book, preferably one with an intact cover and spine, but damaged or missing pages. I found a box of Westerns by the roadside after a hard rain. The pages were already brittle, and now moldy too. Don’t sacrifice a book you love or a book that still has life in it.
Step 2: Remove the Text Block (Pages)
Fold the front and back covers back to expose the area where pages meet the spine. Carefully slice through the endpapers (and not the spine). Set the text block (chunk o’ pages) aside. If you want to paint or decorate the cover, do so now and let it dry.
Step 3: Cut Panels
Use the text block as your guide to cut reinforcing panels.
1. The front and back should be the same size as the text block’s (and a bit smaller than the covers).
2. The spine should be the length and width of the text block’s, but slightly shorter at top and bottom (I took 0.25 inches off both ends).
3. The ceiling and floor pieces should be narrower and shorter than the text block’s. The goal is to make them sit flush within the other foam pieces. You may need to make slight adjustments to ensure the book closes properly, with front and back covers parallel, not splayed.
Step 4: Cut Paper for the Panels
Wrap the fronts and edges of the cover and spine pieces in your chosen paper.
I used encyclopedia pages as they had black text on a white background, and the paper was like onionskin. This kind of paper didn’t add bulk, but I did worry about the markers/paint bleeding. If you want to use watercolors, I recommend applying a clear gesso first. Don’t use newspaper—it will yellow and disintegrate. 6
You can use the pages that you cut out of this book if they are flexible, but mine were crumbling.
Trim paper to size, leaving an overlap to glue to the backsides of the foam pieces. You can fold or cut the corners to get a clean, mitered edge.
Step 5: Glue the Paper to the Panels
Glue the paper to the foam panels on the front, edges, and wrapped around to the back. I used Elmer’s stick glue, as liquid school glue would cause wrinkles and hot glue would leave lumps. Let dry.
Wrap the ceiling and floor pieces completely in the paper, as their insides and outsides will be visible. Aim to have the seam/overlap near the long edge of the panel.
Step 6: Glue Three of the Panels to the Hardcover
With the book spread open, hot glue the backs of the cover and spine panels to the hardcover interior.
Do not glue the ceiling/top or floor/bottom panels yet.
Step 7: Decorate!
Decorate! I chose my favorite local scenery, as I find the same kind of peace there as I do in a book. Keep in mind the scale – small trees at the back, objects appear larger closer to you. If you want any 3D elements, decide how you will make them.
1. Waterfall: I cut 6 skinny strips (approx. 0.5 inches wide), colored them blue on the front and back (using two different markers), then braided them. Braid gently, as the paper may tear. I then glued braid #1 at the top of the spine panel. I glued the braid #2 at the base of the spine panel. I then glued braid #1 to the spine, just above where I glued the start of braid #2. I curled the ends of braid #1 around a pencil to help form the foamy that collects at the base of a waterfall, and left them loose. I glued braid #2 down in a few spots along the floor panel to ensure it didn’t unravel.
2. Pine/conifer tree: I cut then colored a 2-inch-wide strip of paper green on the front and back (using two different markers). 6