Creating a Custom Desk Top With Hidden Phone Charger
Introduction: Creating a Custom Desk Top With Hidden Phone Charger
Hey guys! In this Instructable I’ll show you how I created my own custom desk top from walnut and added hidden wireless phone charging!
Keep reading and I’ll show you how I did it!
If you like this instructable be sure to check out my most popular instructables below:
5 Pro Tips for Making Cutting Boards
How to Make an End Grain Butcher Block
How to Make a Slab Flattening Mill
The Ultimate Table Saw Fence
If you like this instructional content you can also find me at:
My Website (full tutorials, plans, videos): https://mwawoodworks.com
My YouTube (all my build videos): https://youtube.com/c/mwawoodworks
My Instagram (behind the scenes stuff): https://instagram.com/mwawoodworks
My Pinterest (things I find inspirational) : https://pinterest.com/mwawoodworks
Supplies
►Rubio Monocoat Pure - https://amzn.to/3kRzXtO
►Wireless Charger - https://www.mockett.com/power-communication-syste...
►Titebond 2 Wood Glue (bottle) -https://amzn.to/3sTAjD8
►Condiment Bottles (for glue) - https://www.mockett.com/power-communication-syste...
►Parallel Clamps - https://www.mockett.com/power-communication-syste...
►Scraper - https://www.mockett.com/power-communication-syste...
►GOOD cedar pencils (trust me) - https://www.mockett.com/power-communication-syste...
►Dewalt Trim Router (bare tool)- https://www.mockett.com/power-communication-syste...
►45 degree chamfer bit (underbevel)- https://www.mockett.com/power-communication-syste...
►Freud Heavy Duty Ripping Blade (for table saw) - https://www.mockett.com/power-communication-syste...
Step 1: Milling the Rough Walnut Lumber
I’m making my desk top out of 6/4 walnut and I begin by breaking this lumber to rough length at the miter saw. I want the final length of the desk to be 5 feet so I’m cutting these to about 62 inches for now.
Since I purchased rough sawn lumber, I needed to mil up these boards. But I did want to mention that if you don’t have a jointer or planer you do have the option of buying pre-surfaced lumber and skip the milling process entirely. Because a couple of these boards were wider than my jointer, I needed to trim them down to be able to mill them.
Over at the jointer I began to flatten one face of the boards. After that I flipped them on edge to make one edge square to the newly flat face.
Now that I have a flat reference surface I head next door to the planer to make the opposite face parallel to it.
Once the planing is done I could rip the last edge straight at the table saw.
And that’s basically it, these boards are ready for the first glue-up.
Step 2: Initial Glue-up
So, before I do this first glueup I want to mark the middle joint so I don’t accidentally glue it together. 493
These white markers from RevMark are fantastic for working with walnut. So much easier to see these marks.
Then I just add some glue and spread it evenly across the joints. I only glue one side of the joint, otherwise you just get a bunch of squeeze out and a big mess.
I do my best to make sure these joints line up flush. Its not super critical because I will be running these through the planer but the flatter they are the less material you need to remove and I want to stay as close to and inch and a half as possible on the thickness of this desk top.
I then alternate my clamps top and bottom to get good even clamping pressure. After about 30 minutes I went back and scraped off the excess glue. It’s a lot easier to remove it now once it’s skinned over and begun to solidify.
Its also a good idea to remove the glue so it doesn’t interfere with how flat these are as they go through the planer. 933