Mandolin From One 2X4 (stand Too!)
Introduction: Mandolin From One 2X4 (stand Too!)
This is my first Instructable. I have admired many works published on this site and I guess the "One Board Contest" got me interested and thought it was time for me to share. I chose to make a teardrop mandolin from a single 2x4x8, red cedar stud (stand too). It was fun to build and a joy to hear it play once completed. The plan was modified from an online site offering free musical instrument plans- www.harpkit.com. I hope you enjoy my Instructable.
Supplies
Materials:
1- 2X4X8', Clear Red Cedar Stud
Mandolin Tuning Mechanism
Mandolin Tail Piece
Mandolin Strings
Basic woodworking tools:
Table saw, band saw, hand saw(s), planer, jointer, hand plane(s), files/rasps, drill press, chisels, clamps- lots of clamps, squares, layout tools, router, bits/cutters, sandpaper, glue, finish...
Specialty tools/equipment:
Steam box for bending wood and a bending jig for mandolin side (explained later)
Step 1: Initial Layout
I chose to use clear red cedar. It was the straightest, cleanest, and nicest grain of all the types of wood at the lumber yard. It may not be the ideal wood to make a mandolin due to how soft it is, but it was very easy to shape, sand, and finish. Also, once completed, it has a nice mellow sound. There is many websites available discussing the choice of tonal woods for instruments. I'm satisfied with my choice.
As you can see, it is one 2 X4 X 8' stud. I laid out the pieces, labeled them, and cut them to length- side 36", fret board 14", neck 16", and the soundboard (top) and back 30".
Step 2: Templates
As I mentioned in the start of this Instructable, I modified plans from a set found online- www.harpkit.com. The plans are for a teardrop mandolin and the company is Musicmaker's Kits, Inc. Some of my sizes and shapes are a bit different and I did not use a curved and tapered back.
My templates were cut out of 1/16" chipboard and used both pieces of the templates for laying out parts and pieces.
Step 3: Making Top (soundboard) and Back
The top and back are made from 1/4" strips of the 2 X 4. 431
I cut rough strips with the bandsaw. Between cuts I re- jointed the face of the 2 X 4 to give one smooth side. Only 4 pieces were needed to glue up and make both sides. The pieces were ripped to an even width (and to get rid of the rounded corner of the stud), jointed, book-matched for a good look, glued, clamped, and planed to final thickness- 1/8".
Step 4: Making the Side
From the piece chosen for the side, I cut it to get a quarter sawn piece 2 1/4" wide X 1/4" thick by 36" long. The piece was jointed, ripped and planed to a final size of 1 7/8" X 1/8". I wrapped the board in a wet towel for about an hour while I set up the steam box and forming jig.
The forming jig was already made from a couple years ago when I made my first mandolin (this is only my second). The jig consists a 3 pieces of plywood (2- 3/4" & 1- 1/2") glued together cut out to the shape of the side. The inner form is 1/8" smaller than the outer form to give room for the wood to fit in tightly. As you can see from the pictures, the jig is in several parts that all clamp together for the final shape.
The steam box consists of a pot of water heated over a hotplate with a tight cap funneling the steam into a 42" section of 2" pvc pipe. A few small dowel were place through the tube to support the wood to be steamed and finally a cap placed on the end. A drain hole in located below the cap to allow any water to drain and reduce any built up steam pressure.
The side board was placed in the steam box for about 20 minutes. When it came out it was hot and very flexible but would cool off quickly so I had to work fast.
You can see in the video how the side took shape and worked on the first try. My first attempt at steaming wood a few years ago was met with multiple failures. A few research missions on the internet helped me along. 599