Replace Micro-USB Port With Only a Soldering Iron
Introduction: Replace Micro-USB Port With Only a Soldering Iron
This instructable documents a useful hack to desolder and replace failing Micro-USB (or USB-C, mini, etc!) ports without use of hot air, solder wick or solder suckers. - Just a soldering iron and some wire!
(I tweeted about this a week ago, people seemed to find it useful so here it is as an instructable!)
The method is definitely a hack, and not best practice at all, if you have access to more advanced tools you can absolutely do this a better way.
Supplies
Mandatory:
* Soldering iron - Almost any will work, in this case I use a Pinecil running at 30W.
* Something to clean your iron tip - I use brass wool.
* Solder - The lower the melting temp the better.
* Something to hold your pcb still - I use a vise, but even blu-tac on a desk should work fine.
* Replacement port - This can be salvaged from another device using the desoldering method detailed below.
* A short piece of solid core wire - Copper is preferable, but I use a snipped lead from a diode.
Optional Extras:
* Solvent to clean flux - Optional but strongly recommended if you have it.
* Solder wick / Braid - Optional but may be useful when putting a new port on.
* Multimeter - Optional but recomended.
* An old usb cable to cut up for checking continuity - Optional but recomended.
Step 1: Making a Plan
We need to identify the joints that need heating to remove the port, and plan the wire route that will channel heat and melt them all at once:
1. Most SMD USB ports will have 2-4 mechanical joints either side of their main body (and in this case a joint underneath), as well as several data pins.
2. Try to work out a path to join all these spots that need heat with a small piece of wire, in this case by bending a C shape.
note: Pads underneath the main body of the connector will melt if spots nearby are heated, but may make the process take longer.
Step 2: Forming the Wire
1. Cut a length of your wire roughly to length.
2. Bend it to match the shape you planned in step 1.
Step 3: Tinning Joints and Attaching the Wire
1. Add a liberal amount of solder to all the joints.
2. Slide the wire into place.
3. Join the wire to each blob of solder.
note: Don't worry about making neat joints or bridging pins! this will all be gone soon.
Step 4: Removing the Port
Apply gentle pressure to the connector, pushing towards the edge of the board until the connector slides off.
If your connector has through hole mechanical pins, or plastic locator pins that extend all the way through the pcb, tweezers may be needed to pull upwards instead of pushing with the iron.
note: This took about 7 seconds for me, with my iron running on a 30W USB-C PD power-bank, which is not optimal, it should be much faster using a higher wattage iron, or higher wattage settings if supported.
Step 5: Cleaning Up
To attach a new port we'll need to first clean the excess solder off the pads:
1. 98
With a clean iron, drag the tip across the mechanical connection pads, taking solder with it.
2. Clean the solder off the tip using your brass wire or sponge.
3. Repeat this until the pads are clean.
4. Use solvent to clean up any flux left behind. - Optional but recommended (I didn't have any to hand).
Make sure to leave a little solder on the data pin pads!
If you have solder wick / braid to hand this will make this much faster and clean.
note: If you are desoldering a port to be re-used, make sure to clean the solder off the bottom of the body too.
Step 6: Attaching the New Port
Now we'll put the new port in place and solder it in:
1. Place the connector on the board - Connectors will often have locator pins, so make sure they are in their holes.
2. Secure the connector in place temporarily - Optional, I did this without but it can help. (this could be with blu-tac, tape or pressing with tweezers).
3. Gently connect the mechanical joints using a little solder. 320