Was it his bad luck, I wondered, to be born too early to take part in today’s lucrative professional surfing circuit? Or was it his good luck to be part of a surfing scene that was less about stardom and more about enjoying the waves?
我不知道出生太早无法加入今天能大把赚钱的职业冲浪队伍是否是他的运气不好？又或者在他那个时代冲浪无关明星而只注重享受海浪带来的乐趣恰恰是他运气好？