City Heat: Tel Aviv
By Teresa Levonian Cole
Israel may often be in the news, yet the wide-ranging attractions of Tel Aviv for travellers are often overlooked. Teresa Levonian Cole picks five reasons to visit.
The great outdoors: Inacompact, energetic city of just 50 square kilometres, the best way to get around is on foot - or astride a 'Green bicycle': Tel Aviv's version of Boris bikes. While away the hours at pavement cafes, sipping fresh pomegranate juice. The beaches have their own allure and soundtrack - the splat of paddle balls resounding in the air - with a set of regulars, such as the dog walkers on 'Dog Beach' or Nordau Beach, which has separate days for men and women. The fashionable set, meantime, repairs to the entry-fee seclusion of Gordon Pool (www.gordon-pool.co.il), overlooking the marina - a Tel Aviv institution since 1956.
Food & drink: The city has blossomed into a veritable foodie destination. From humble hummus restaurants - such as Jaffa's famous Ali Karavan - to sushi shacks on Rothschild Boulevard, luscious fruit stalls in Carmel Market and trendy eateries at the redeveloped Tel Aviv Port, variety abounds. Try a traditional breakfast of beans in the cobbled streets of the Yemenite Quarter, where grandmothers serve up homely fare. At Dallal (www.dallal.info), in arty Neve Tzedek, taste one of the world's best burgers with caramelised onions, fried egg and truffle mousse, on brioche, followed by cocktails and snacks at Rothschild 12 (www.rothschild12.co.il), haunt of musicians and writers. And for something inspirational, head to Popina (www.popina.co.il): from the beetroot margarita with coriander and ginger, to the steamed cheesecake with pistachio and yuzu - it's all heaven.
What to do and where to stay in Oslo
The Bullet Factory: Now a historic museum concealed beneath the laundry of a former kibbutz (communal settlement), this underground factory (eng.shimur.org/Ayalon-institute/) secretly manufactured millions of bullets between 1945 and 1948, under the nose of the British for use in the War of Independence. The story, brilliantly brought to life by young guides, is a testament to human determination and ingenuity - from the smuggling of machinery from Poland, to the installation of sun lamps, to tan the clandestine workers who were supposedly toiling in the fields. It's a unique experience - and, we are assured, not one bullet from this factory was fired against the British, who had become both friends and dupes of the crypto-kibbutzniks.
Architecture & design: Tel Aviv's 'White City' is home to a remarkable collection of Eclectic-style buildings from the Twenties, its architecture evolving a decade later into the more restrained and functional Bauhaus style - of which there are some 4,000 examples. The twenty-first century, meantime, has seen the arrival of 'starchitects' such as Ron Arad, whose ribbon - like Design Museum (www.dmh.org.il), inspired by the sand dunes, is a spiralling orange beacon for cutting-edge exhibitions. Flair for design filters into every area - as the boutiques of Shabazi Street will reveal.
Hotel: In the sweltering summer months, what better than a refreshing sea breeze and views over the seemingly limitless Mediterranean coastline from a suite at Royal Beach Hotel (www.isrotel. com)? This cool new addition to the city's seafront hotels brings boutique ethos to a full-service hotel and an extraordinarily large, open-air swimming pool on the fourth floor. It is perfect for those seeking a central location - and serves what has to be one of the best breakfasts in all Tel Aviv.
Ways and means: Teresa Levonian Cole travelled as a guest of British Airways (www.ba.com) and Pomegranate Travel (020-3617 1826; www.pomegranate-travel.com), specialists in tailor-made holidays in Israel. A three-night stay at Royal Beach Hotel, B&B, including a private city tour and airport transfers, costs from £420, excluding flights.
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