 In particular, the clothing of the Low Countries, German states, and Scandinavia developed in a different direction than that of England, France, and Italy, although all acknowledged the sobering and formal influence of Spanish dress after the mid-1520s.Linen shirts and chemises or smocks had full sleeves and often full bodies, pleated or gathered closely at neck and wrist.The resulting small frill gradually became a wide ruffle, presaging the ruff of the latter half of the century.