 Bobbin lace arose from passementerie in this period, probably in Flanders, and was used both as an edging and as applied trim; it is called "passamayne" in English inventories.The most fashionable furs were the silvery winter coat of the lynx and dark brown (almost black) sable.Women's fashions of the early 16th century consisted of a long gown, usually with sleeves, worn over a "kirtle" or undergown, with a linen chemise or smock worn next to the skin.