 From the 1530s, French and English fashions featured an open, square-necked gown with long sleeves fitted smoothly over a tight corset or "pair of bodies" and a farthingale.With the smooth, conical line of the skirt, the front of the kirtle or petticoat was displayed, and a decorated panel called a "forepart", heavily embroidered and sometimes jeweled, was pinned to the petticoat or directly to the farthingale.The earlier cuffed sleeves evolved into "trumpet sleeves", tight on the upper arm and flared below, with wide, turned back cuffs (often lined with fur) worn over full undersleeves that might match the decorated forepart.