Kolkata's red-brick secretariat, constructed over 200 years ago for the East India Company, reflects a history of distrust towards foreign merchants. Currently, the building is occupied by Mamata Banerjee, the chief minister of West Bengal, who is seen as a major obstacle to economic reforms that would open up India's consumer markets to 21st-century traders. Banerjee is hailed as a hero by supporters who refer to her as "Didi" or "Big Sister", for ending communist rule in West Bengal and protecting farmers and shopkeepers from the effects of globalisation. They believe she is leading West Bengal towards becoming an economic and cultural powerhouse and India's gateway to Southeast Asia. However, due to a series of unpredictable actions, such as the arrest of a professor for sharing a joke email about her, critics now view her as a potential autocrat. India Today magazine has even labeled her the "Queen of Democrazy." Banerjee's controversial behavior and dissatisfaction with her leadership in West Bengal may lead to a quick end to her popularity with voters. Additionally, she relies on the central government to help resolve West Bengal's debt crisis. These circumstances could give Prime Minister Manmohan Singh an opportunity to outmaneuver her, despite her position as a coalition partner who has opposed much-needed economic reforms. Over the past year, India has experienced a slowdown in its strong economic growth, with significant increases in both its current account and budget deficits. However, the central government's efforts to implement crisis-solving policies have been hindered by coalition allies, particularly Banerjee's Trinamool Congress party. According to Bengali political analyst Amulya Ganguli, Banerjee may be reconsidering her approach and showing signs of willingness to cooperate more responsibly. A less powerful Banerjee could make it simpler for Singh's government, which has been losing popularity due to corruption scandals and high inflation, to implement reform. Despite starting out as a poor teacher's daughter, Banerjee was recognized by Time Magazine as one of the world's 100 most influential people in April. Even though she received praise from Hillary Clinton and discussed potential US investment in Indian ports, Banerjee remained firm in her opposition to foreign supermarkets like Wal-Mart operating in India. She expressed her support for private investment in creating jobs in sectors like tourism and industry, including hospitals, but made it clear that she would always be against policies that result in job losses for farmers and small retailers. Dressed in a white saree, she stated that there are certain limits to her actions, emphasizing that she cannot support measures that lead to unemployment. She also mentioned her opposition to increasing the prices of heavily subsidised fuel and rail fares, which is not good news for Prime Minister Singh, as his inability to control deficits and reverse the economic slowdown has damaged his reputation as the architect of reforms that had previously boosted India's economy. Banerjee, who holds significant political power with her 19 MPs in parliament, emphasized the importance of exploring alternative solutions to combat price hikes that primarily affect the common people. Despite facing financial challenges in her own state government due to high debt inherited from previous leaders, Banerjee is focused on finding ways to develop businesses and secure additional funds. While she embraces modern technology like her iPad, Banerjee also values the frugal principles of Mahatma Gandhi, refusing to accept a government salary or perks like a car and residence. Despite her personal austerity, she has managed to hire around 90,000 new teachers and police officers, even with the state's debts. The cost of this has raised some concerns, but her finance minister, Amit Mitra, has stated that it is relatively low due to the low wages. Mitra, a former head of India's FICCI, mentioned that the state's tax revenue increased by 20 percent last year, mainly due to improved enforcement. Kolkata, previously known as Calcutta, was once a thriving intellectual and industrial capital under British rule, and despite its past glory, it now resembles Cuba's Havana with its faded tropical charm and old-fashioned taxis. Banerjee, who has vowed to revitalize the state to its former glory, expressed her desire to modernize the city similar to London. She has invited companies to contribute, including the construction of a 'Kolkata Eye' to rival London's famous ferris wheel. Despite criticism in the media, projects such as painting bridges and buildings blue and installing ornamental street lights designed by Banerjee herself have been deemed cost-effective by officials. The construction of new flyovers, an airport terminal, and the increasing presence of middle-class apartments and office buildings indicate a shift towards progress. Banerjee, a devotee of Bengali polymath Rabindranath Tagore, is not only a Nobel literature prize winner but also a painter and poet with her own creative talents. Critics highlight a darker aspect of her personality, as she does not seem to tolerate dissent. She recently demonstrated her influence by pressuring the prime minister to dismiss his railway minister, a member of her own party, after he announced a fare increase in parliament. The former minister, Dinesh Trivedi, who was asked to resign after the announcement, stated that the fare hike was necessary for the modernization of the overcrowded and outdated railway network, a significant hindrance to economic growth. In April, chemistry professor Ambikesh Mahapatra, aged 52, forwarded an email mocking Banerjee's handling of Trivedi, leading to his detention by the police on charges of 'cyber crimes'. Prior to this, Mahapatra was confronted and physically assaulted by a group of around 24 individuals. Reflecting on the incident, Mahapatra expressed his surprise at being accused of a crime and mentioned feeling fearful, particularly due to the government's lack of remorse. Mahapatra's approach caused a strong reaction. Banerjee, who was previously hospitalized for several months after being attacked by Communist thugs, was able to defeat the leftists in part by denouncing the culture of political violence in West Bengal. Critics are now questioning if things have truly changed. Dwaipayan Bhattacharyya from the Centre for Studies in Social Sciences, Calcutta, remarked, "White and blue for the bridges, black and blue for the protesters," suggesting that this seems to be Banerjee's current approach. He also added that she does not seem to tolerate any form of dissent. Bhattacharyya stated that the educated middle classes, who previously supported Banerjee for defeating the left, are now feeling alienated due to her behavior. Banerjee, on the other hand, denied being autocratic and claimed that the campaign against her was orchestrated by the communists she had removed from power. She also argued that violence has decreased significantly since she took office. Anand Sharma, who had faced obstacles in achieving his goal of opening up India's retail sector, may see a change in his fortunes. A senior government adviser, speaking anonymously, remarked that Banerjee's reputation as a dragon slayer is diminishing with the recent arrest of a scientist. "Maybe that allows Anand a bit more space, we'll find out."