The sugary summer drink Rooh Afza, known for its poetic name meaning "soul refresher" and its association with Old Delhi, has crossed borders to become popular in South Asia. In Pakistan, it is mixed with milk and almonds for religious offerings, while in Bangladesh, it is given as a gift to new in-laws. Movies have even used it as a metaphor for beauty. In Delhi, where temperatures can exceed 100 degrees Fahrenheit, Rooh Afza is widely available. The classic taste of Rooh Afza has been updated to attract a younger audience and new customers, with the chilled drink now being served in various ways - from plastic goblets at cold-drink vendors to juice boxes in children's school bags. Hakim Abdul Majid, the founder of Rooh Afza in 1907, aimed to appeal to India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh with its sweet and herbal flavor, a beverage that has stood the test of time in the region's turbulent history. India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh all share a love for Rooh Afza, a beverage with a sweet and herbal taste that has stood the test of time despite the region's tumultuous history. As the summer heat intensifies, the drink's reputation as a natural cooler made from fruits and herbs that can lower body temperature and boost energy has led to widespread demand. The drink's survival over the years can be attributed to the ambition of a young herbalist who passed away early, and the vision of his wife, who helped her sons turn the beverage into a successful business. Rooh Afza brings in approximately $45 million in profit each year in India alone, with most of the proceeds supporting schools, universities, and clinics through a trust fund. Despite some minor changes in ingredients due to availability, the drink's formula has largely remained the same over the years, according to Hamid Ahmed, a member of the family's fourth generation who oversees the expanded food division of Hamdard Laboratories, the manufacturer of the drink. In an image provided to The New York Times, an advertisement for Rooh Afza promotes it as a drink favored by the elite during the heat season. India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh all appreciate the sweet and herbal flavor of Rooh Afza, a beverage with a rich history in the region. Now, it is trying to attract a new generation of consumers. The glass bottles that once flew off the shelves of Majid's small medicine store, called Hamdard, have now been replaced with plastic bottles. Majid passed away at the age of 34, leaving behind his wife, Rabea Begum, and two sons - one was 14 years old, and the other was just a toddler. Begum made a crucial decision to transform Hamdard into a lasting presence and developed a strategy to maintain its profitability through welfare efforts during a turbulent political period in the country. She established Hamdard as a trust, with herself and her two young sons serving as trustees. The earnings would not benefit the family, but would mostly go towards public welfare. The company faced its greatest challenge during India's partition in 1947 following independence from the British. Pakistan was created as a separate Muslim nation, resulting in a mass migration of millions of people who endured a difficult journey by foot and crowded trains to reach the correct side of the border. Between 1 to 2 million people perished during this time, and families, including Begum's, were separated. An image provided to The New York Times shows Rabea Begum, the wife of Hakim Abdul Majid, who made the decision to channel profits from Rooh Afza into a trust for public welfare after his death. Rooh Afza, a beloved beverage in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, has withstood the region's turbulent history and is now seeking to appeal to a new generation. Hakim Abdul Hamid, their son, remained in India where he became a respected academic and managed Hamdard India. India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh all share a love for the sweet and herbal flavor of Rooh Afza, a beverage that has been popular despite the region's tumultuous history. Now, efforts are being made to introduce this drink to a new generation. Hakim Mohamad Said, who had previously been involved with Hamdard India, moved to Pakistan to establish Hamdard Pakistan and begin production of Rooh Afza there. Eventually, he became the governor of Pakistan's Sindh province but was tragically assassinated in 1998. Following the split of Pakistan in 1971, which resulted in the creation of Bangladesh, the facilities producing Rooh Afza in those regions formed their own trust: Hamdard Bangladesh. All three businesses are operated independently by extended family members or friends of the young herbalist. Despite slight variations due to regional climate differences affecting the herbs, they all offer a similar taste. The drink is popular during summer, but there is a particularly high demand during the Muslim fasting month of Ramadan. Enjoying a glass of chilled Rooh Afza can provide a refreshing boost of energy and flavor around the dinner table or in the bazaars at the end of the day. Employees are seen checking bottles of Rooh Afza at a factory in Gurgaon, India, on April 14, 2021. India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh all share a love for the sweet and herbal flavor of Rooh Afza, a beverage that has a long history in the region. Now, it is seeking to appeal to a new generation of consumers. Faqir Muhammad, a 55-year-old porter in Karachi, Pakistan, explains that after a day of fasting during the summer, he quenches his thirst with a glass of Rooh Afza after eating a date to replenish his energy. At a factory in Gurgaon, India, employees are shown checking bottles of Rooh Afza, highlighting the drink's popularity across the region. Currently, the brand is targeting a new generation's taste preferences. In Bangladesh, Rooh Afza's marketing extends beyond flavor and refreshment to include unlikely and metaphysical aspects. Amirul Momenin Manik, deputy director of Hamdard Bangladesh, claims that experts say Rooh Afza can help COVID-19-infected patients by reducing their physical and mental weakness, although no scientific evidence is provided. Many people in Bangladesh reportedly experience heavenly sensations when they consume Rooh Afza, as it is marketed as a halal drink. During a visit to Rooh Afza's India factory in April, workers produced 270,000 bottles daily while wearing protective gear. The manufacturing process involved boiling sugar in large tanks, mixing it with fruit juices, and distilling over a dozen herbs and flowers such as chicory, rose, white water lily, sandalwood, and wild mint. In a photo received by The New York Times, employees at a Rooh Afza factory in India are seen preparing the sugar syrup for the popular drink. This beverage, loved by India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, has withstood the region's tumultuous past and is now looking to attract a new generation of consumers. At the loading dock, two trucks are loaded with over 1,000 bottles each day and distributed to warehouses and markets throughout India. Ahmed, who oversees Hamdard's food division and focuses on Rooh Afza, is working on expanding the brand by introducing new products to appeal to consumers who have outgrown the drink in their younger years. Some new offerings include juice boxes combining Rooh Afza with fruit juice, a Rooh Afza yogurt drink, and a Rooh Afza milkshake. Research by the company found that half of Rooh Afza in Indian households is used as a flavor in milk, while the other half is used in cold drinks. To cater to changing tastes, Ahmed introduced a Rooh Afza milkshake made with Rooh Afza, milk, and vanilla. Now it is targeting the taste preferences of a new generation. (Rebecca Conway/The New York Times) 

Ahmed expressed that the milkshake has been very successful. He also takes pride in two specific products. One of them is a sugar-free variation of the original Rooh Afza, which took 15 years to develop as the company searched for a suitable sugar substitute. Priced at more than double the original, it appeals to a wealthier demographic. In New Delhi on April 15, 2021, Muslims in India break their Ramadan fast with snacks and Rooh Afza. The sweet and herbal taste of Rooh Afza is enjoyed in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, despite the region's turbulent history. Now, the beverage is looking to appeal to a new generation. Ahmed, a runner, notes a growing market for health-conscious individuals who carefully monitor their diet. Additionally, there is potential for the original, sugary Rooh Afza to further penetrate India's large market. He is focusing on customers who cannot purchase the 750-milliliter bottle that costs $2, by providing single-use sachets for 15 cents - a tactic that transformed the accessibility of shampoo brands in India. In many regions of India, the prevalence of malnutrition is so severe that sugar is appreciated. "In fact, people in India desire sugar," Ahmed stated. "Only the metropolitan areas are aware of the dangers of diabetes."