Paris is currently experiencing a significant change as all restaurants have been closed, the nightlife has been stifled by an early curfew, and the beloved tradition of the aperitif has been eliminated. The once vibrant cafe culture has been replaced with a sense of melancholy. The City of Light has been overcome by despair, with people now resorting to eating sandwiches on city benches in the rain. Traditional taboos are being broken, much to the dismay of the city's residents. They now opt for takeout in the form of "click-and-collect" instead of dining out, which they see as a negative American influence. They sadly observe the outdated menus of closed restaurants still advertising traditional French dishes. The city is now devoid of its usual attractions like museums, tourist boats on the Seine, sidewalk cafes, movie theaters, and the lively atmosphere of wandering through the streets. In their absence, a sense of melancholy has descended upon the city like a fog. In 1983, Saul Bellow wrote that the gloom in Paris is more than just due to the climate - it is a spiritual force that affects not only physical structures but also one's character, opinions, and judgment. Despite this, Bellow could still find solace in a glass of wine and some charcuterie when the "Parisian grisaille" brought him down. However, in the current damp Parisian winter, with COVID-19 taking its toll and the city's empty streets resembling a scene from TS Eliot's poetry, sunlight is a rare occurrence that leaves one questioning its reality. New York does not experience drizzle or long periods of cloudy skies like Paris does. The adjustment has been difficult, especially for a Paris that feels empty. Alain Ducasse, a famous chef, described the current atmosphere in Paris as one of extreme sadness and a sense of imprisonment. The French are struggling to adapt to a life without social interactions such as enjoying a drink at a cafe or exchanging kisses on the cheeks as a form of greeting or farewell. With over 74,000 fatalities in France due to the pandemic, the restrictions put in place are widely accepted. Nearly every major city globally has experienced significant losses in lives, jobs, and lifestyles. Paris is not the only city facing hardships. Each city is adapting in its own unique manner. In New York, the most noticeable absence is the vibrant energy that typically characterizes the city. In Paris, what is missing is the sensual charm and conviviality that captures people's imaginations. The pleasures that the French have perfected over centuries have disappeared, leaving life feeling dull and monotonous. There seems to be nowhere else to turn to for excitement, as one friend lamented, "We only have Paris." He purchased a dog so he can take it for a walk after the curfew, as permitted. Frédéric Hocquard, who oversees tourism and nightlife for the mayor's office, mentioned that the number of tourists in Paris decreased by approximately 85% last year. The visits to the Louvre and Versailles, which are currently closed, also saw a decline of about 90%. Hocquard described the situation as "catastrophic." Hotel occupancy is currently at approximately 6%, but there is a positive note in the increased number of Parisians visiting the Eiffel Tower last year, which doubled. Hocquard noted that one defining trait of a true Parisian is that they have never been up the Eiffel Tower, but this trend is starting to change with the removal of other options. There are other benefits to be found in this difficult situation for Parisians. Traffic continues to flow as markets remain bustling with vendors shucking oysters, butchers meticulously trussing quail, Camembert cheeses sparking discussions on ripeness, and rum baba cakes being injected with rum using small syringes. The city's islands still face towards the low bridges with subtle fulcrums, while 19th-century lampposts along the deserted Rue de Rivoli create a dreamlike atmosphere reminiscent of a film noir. (Those with press passes are allowed out after curfew). When Paris is peaceful, it is also lost in thought. Ducasse mentioned a period of one hundred days before the city would come back to life. When asked about his travels, he mentioned a trip to Bologna in Italy to find a skilled gelato maker. After launching a profitable chocolate business a couple of years back, Hocquard's next project will involve ice cream. He is also considering organizing concerts and other outdoor events in parks, along the Seine river, and possibly at neglected airports in April and May. Despite his positive outlook, he still needs to address current challenges. On a recent snowy Sunday, I visited the Tuileries seeking some entertainment. I have always appreciated the structured layout of this garden, with its gravel pathways, trimmed trees, and geometric designs. The only working attraction was a carousel, where colorful horses, an ostrich, a car, a plane, a ship, and Cinderella carriages spun around. My companion and I opted for the horses, while North African music played in the background. A few children were also enjoying the ride. The carousel, a small wonder, took me on a trip down memory lane to my sporadic years in Paris dating back to the mid-1970s. Paris will return again, perhaps not this spring, but at some point. I observed a crow grabbing a discarded French fry in its beak and flying off to sit on a bench. I stared at a wall adorned with plaques honoring French soldiers who died during the liberation of Paris in 1944. The youngest soldier, Jean-Claude Touche, was only 18 years old. The pandemic has brought about conditions similar to those of war during a time of peace. Like all crises, it will eventually come to an end. Humphrey Bogart's iconic line from "Casablanca" - "We'll always have Paris" - was a message to Ingrid Bergman to move on, be with her husband, and find solace in memories of their love in the city. It was an invitation to imagine a better future. Now, more than ever, we must envision a revitalized Paris. Copyright 2021 The New York Times Company.