Paris is currently experiencing a significant change, with restaurants closed and a 6 pm curfew in place. The city's vibrant nightlife and cafe culture have been disrupted, leading to a sense of melancholy among residents. Taboos are being broken as people resort to eating sandwiches on benches in the rain. They now opt for takeout through "le click-and-collect" instead of dining out early, which they see as a negative American influence. They sadly observe the outdated menus of closed restaurants still offering traditional dishes. The city is devoid of its usual attractions like museums, tourist boats on the Seine, outdoor terraces, movie theaters, and the lively atmosphere of wandering around. Instead, a feeling of gloom has taken hold of the city. In 1983, Saul Bellow wrote that the gloom in Paris is not just due to the weather, but also has a spiritual impact on people's character, opinions, and judgment. He described it as a powerful force. Despite this, Bellow would still take a break with a glass of sauvignon blanc and a plate of charcuterie when the "Parisian grisaille" made him feel down. However, in the current damp winter in Paris, with the increasing toll of COVID-19 and empty streets reminiscent of TS Eliot's work, the lack of sunlight has been disheartening since arriving from New York seven weeks ago. The few glimpses of sunlight have been fleeting, causing doubts about their reality. New York does not experience light rain or extended periods of cloudy weather. It has been difficult for me to adjust, especially in a Paris that feels empty. Alain Ducasse, a famous chef, described Paris as being incredibly sad and imprisoned. The French people are struggling without their usual social interactions like enjoying a drink at a cafe or exchanging kisses. Even the traditional greeting of a kiss on both cheeks has disappeared. With over 74,000 fatalities in France due to the pandemic, the restrictions put in place are widely accepted. Many major cities globally have experienced significant losses in lives, jobs, and daily routines. Paris is not the only city facing hardships, as each city copes with the changes in its own unique manner. In New York, the most noticeable absence is the vibrant energy that typically characterizes the city. In Paris, the missing element that many long for is the lack of a vibrant and social atmosphere that inspires dreams. The loss of refined pleasures that the French have perfected over centuries has left life feeling dull and without excitement. Many feel trapped with nowhere to go, leading to a sense of claustrophobia and a longing for the unique charm of Paris. Frédéric Hocquard, who oversees tourism and nightlife in the mayor's office, mentioned that he bought a dog so he can take it for walks after the curfew. He also shared that the number of tourists in Paris decreased by approximately 85% last year, with visits to popular attractions like the Louvre and Versailles seeing a decline of about 90%. Hocquard described the situation as "catastrophic." Hotel occupancy rates are currently at 6%, but there is a positive note in the increased number of Parisians visiting the Eiffel Tower last year, which doubled. Hocquard noted that traditionally, true Parisians do not ascend the tower, but this trend is starting to change. The elimination of other options has contributed to this shift, and there are additional benefits to be found in this challenging situation for Parisians. Traffic is moving smoothly, while markets remain bustling with vendors shucking oysters, butchers meticulously preparing quail, Camembert cheeses sparking discussions on ripeness, and rum baba cakes equipped with syringes for injecting rum. The city's islands continue to face the low bridges with delicate balance. The 19th-century lampposts along Rue de Rivoli create a surreal scene with their cast of light, reminiscent of a film noir. (Those with a press pass can venture out after curfew). Paris in a state of calm is also Paris lost in thought. Ducasse mentioned that after one hundred days, the city would start to come back to life. When asked if he had traveled recently, he mentioned only going to Bologna in Italy to find a skilled gelato maker. After establishing a profitable chocolate business a couple of years ago, Hocquard is now looking to start an ice cream venture. In addition, he is considering organizing concerts and outdoor events in parks, along the Seine, and possibly even at neglected airports in April and May. Despite his optimism for the future, there remains the challenge of addressing the current situation. On a snowy Sunday recently, the writer visited the Tuileries in search of some diversion. They have always appreciated the structured layout of the garden, with its gravel paths, trimmed trees, and geometric designs. There was one remaining attraction that was operational: a carousel! Colorful horses, an ostrich, a car, a plane, a ship, and a few Cinderella carriages went round and round. My companion and I decided to ride the horses. The music playing was North African, and there were a couple of children present. The carousel, a small wonder, took me on a journey through my sporadic years in Paris dating back to the mid-1970s. Paris will return, even if not this spring, at some point in the future. I observed a crow pick up a leftover French fry and fly away to land on a bench. I looked at a wall adorned with plaques honoring French soldiers who died during the liberation of Paris in 1944. The youngest soldier, Jean-Claude Touche, was just 18 years old. The pandemic has brought about circumstances reminiscent of wartime during a time of peace. Just like wars eventually come to an end, so too will the pandemic. Humphrey Bogart's iconic line from "Casablanca" - "We'll always have Paris" - was a message to Ingrid Bergman to move on, remain with her spouse, and find solace in memories of their love in the city. This was an encouragement to escape into the realm of imagination. Now, more than ever, Paris needs to be envisioned. Copyright 2021 The New York Times Company.