After a century of unfulfilled promises, a paved road connecting Kenya to Ethiopia is finally becoming a reality in a remote desert region. Chinese road engineers are working on replacing a challenging rock track with tarmac, starting with the first kilometers of the 530-km route from Isiolo to Moyale. This road is part of the Great North Road, originally envisioned by the British to link Cape Town to Cairo. While previous attempts by Britain and Kenyan governments fell short, China is now taking the lead in constructing a vital trade route that will open up the long-isolated northern region of Kenya. This collaboration between China and Kenya reflects a growing trend in Africa, where China's quest for resources and economic opportunities aligns with the development goals of African nations. The construction of a new road in a beautiful but previously impoverished area could bring about real economic benefits through increased tourism and trade. The project manager of China Wu Yi (Kenya) Co., Wu Yi Bao, believes that the completion of the road will lead to more trade and tourism in the region. The road is being built with funding from the African Development Bank and the Kenyan government, and is expected to significantly boost trade between Kenya and Ethiopia along that corridor. Last year, trade between China and Kenya reached $959 million, showing a significant increase from previous years. The Cape-to-Cairo road stops abruptly at the end of Isiolo, marking the border between the two Kenyas. Residents of this bustling border town feel disconnected from the rest of the country, with many saying they are not part of Kenya. Hussein Sasura, assistant minister for Development of Northern Kenya and other Arid Lands, explains that people in the north often feel excluded from the country. The revitalization of the road is expected to bring in more tourists and boost economic opportunities for the locals. However, there are some individuals who are skeptical of China's intentions, reflecting the mixed feelings many Africans have towards the Asian giant's investment efforts. In certain African countries, such as Zambia, there are complaints that China is essentially engaging in a form of modern colonization by exploiting Africa's resources and flooding the market with cheap goods. Despite these concerns, China refutes these claims and emphasizes its longstanding 50-year history of trade and collaboration with Kenya. In the case of Kenya, the Chinese are particularly interested in reconstructing the initial segment of the Isiolo-Moyale road in order to transport heavy machinery to Merti, located approximately 80 km (50 miles) east of the current construction site. Additionally, China National Offshore Oil Corporation (CNOOC) and Sweden's Lundin Petroleum AB are conducting seismic tests in Merti as part of preparations for oil drilling operations slated for next year. Residents in Isiolo have harbored doubts about oil exploration ever since a failed attempt in the 1980s under suspicious circumstances. Recent incidents, such as the shooting of a Chinese engineer by bandits near the Merille River on April 21, have added to the growing resentment. According to tribal elders, the engineer was targeted due to a perceived lack of local employment opportunities provided by the Chinese. Wu, the project manager, stated that the majority of the workforce, about 150 out of 200 people, were Kenyan, and all the day laborers were from the local community. Following the shooting incident, the Kenyan government deployed its elite paramilitary General Service Unit to the Merille River area in order to disarm young people and establish a security presence. The construction of a road is seen as a potential lifeline for northern Kenya, potentially ending years of neglect. During colonial times, Isiolo was considered a remote outpost on the edge of the Northern Frontier District, which covered a large portion of Kenya from Uganda and Sudan to Ethiopia and Somalia. George Cardovillis, a Kenyan with Greek heritage, mentioned that in the past, Europeans were not permitted to reside in Isiolo due to its dangerous conditions and harsh climate. The government instructed them to continue their journey over 600 km south to Maralal. From Isiolo to Ethiopia, the landscape remains unchanged with desolate stretches of black volcanic stones and reddish sands, much like when Cardovillis' ancestors traveled south in a donkey train. The sun still beats down with intense heat, and mountains can be seen in the distance. Water is hard to come by in this harsh environment. Electricity, telephone lines, and other services are scarce in this area. Despite the lack of infrastructure, Kenya's unspoiled national parks remain largely untouched due to their remote location. Just 50 km beyond Isiolo are three game reserves that offer a similar experience to the popular Maasai Mara in terms of animal sightings. Joy Adamson, the author of "Born Free," lived in this area and raised leopards until her tragic death. Jayne Nguatah, the manager of Sarova Shaba lodge in Shaba park, believes that tourism in the area will increase once the road is completed. The Sarova Shaba will be a Christmas present for us. Situated on the Ewaso Nyiro river, crocodiles feed and local herdsmen water their animals. Monkeys and baboons wander around the main lodge, which resembles a treehouse and is built over a natural spring. However, developing a sustainable tourism industry in northern Kenya faces challenges beyond just infrastructure. Banditry and tribal conflicts are frequent due to the influx of weapons from historical and ongoing conflicts in neighboring countries like Ethiopia, Somalia, Sudan, and Uganda. Security forces are stretched thin as nomadic herders continue to search for pasture and water for their animals. Some herders now carry modern assault rifles, while others still use colonial-era weapons. Despite Chinese development projects in Isiolo, there are doubts that the road will reach Moyale to the north. Plans to extend the road beyond the current Chinese project are still in the planning stages. Trader Gumucha Gisiko expressed skepticism about the promised road, stating that for 45 years they have been told about it. He waved his hand dismissively and emphasized the importance of seeing it to truly believe it.