The sweet summer drink Rooh Afza, known for its poetic name meaning "soul refresher" and its association with Old Delhi, has been popular across South Asia for generations. In Pakistan, it is mixed with milk and almonds for religious ceremonies, while in Bangladesh it is given as a gift to in-laws by new grooms. It is even used as a metaphor in movies, with one hero comparing the heroine to Rooh Afza. In Delhi, where summer temperatures can soar above 100 degrees Fahrenheit, Rooh Afza is a common sight. The traditional Rooh Afza drink is now being served in innovative ways by cold-drink vendors, who are competing for customers by showcasing their skills in mixing and drizzling the concentrate into plastic goblets. The beverage, enjoyed in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, has a sweet and herbal taste that has stood the test of time and is now being marketed towards a new generation. Hakim Abdul Majid, the founder of Rooh Afza in 1907 in Old Delhi, is pictured in an undated image provided to The New York Times. India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh all share a love for Rooh Afza, a beverage that has persisted through the region's turbulent history and is now trying to appeal to a new generation. The drink is known for its sweet and herbal taste, and is considered a natural cooler that can lower body temperature and boost energy, despite being mostly sugar. Any disruption in manufacturing leads to a shortage and outcry from consumers. The drink's success over the years can be attributed to the vision of a young herbalist and his wife, who helped turn it into a sustainable business. In India alone, the drink brings in $45 million in profit annually, with most of the funds going towards supporting schools, universities, and clinics. While some ingredients may have changed due to availability, the overall formula has remained consistent. Hamid Ahmed, a fourth-generation family member involved in the business, oversees the expanded food wing of Hamdard Laboratories, the company behind the popular beverage. In an unmarked photo provided to The New York Times, an advertisement for Rooh Afza promotes it as a drink favored by the elite for various heat-related issues. This sweet and herbal beverage, enjoyed by India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, has withstood the region's tumultuous past and is now seeking to appeal to a younger audience. The glass bottles that used to fly off the shelves of Majid's small medicine store, named Hamdard, have now been replaced by plastic. Majid passed away at the age of 34, leaving behind his wife, Rabea Begum, and two sons - one 14 years old and the other a toddler. Begum made a crucial decision to turn Hamdard into a lasting institution, ensuring its profitability and welfare efforts in a time of political turmoil. She established Hamdard as a trust, with herself and her two sons as the trustees. The profits would not benefit the family, but would mostly go towards public welfare. The company faced its greatest challenge during India's violent partition in 1947, when Pakistan was created as a separate Muslim nation. Millions of people underwent a difficult journey, either on foot or in crowded trains, to reach the correct side of the border. Between 1 to 2 million people perished, and families, including Begum's, were separated. An image provided to The New York Times shows Rabea Begum, the wife of Hakim Abdul Majid, who made the decision to allocate profits from Rooh Afza to a trust for public welfare after his passing. This popular beverage, enjoyed in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, has a sweet and herbal flavor that has remained popular despite the region's turbulent history, and is now being marketed to a new generation. Hakim Abdul Hamid, their son, stayed in India and became a renowned academic overseeing Hamdard India. India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh all share a love for the sweet and herbal flavor of Rooh Afza, a beverage that has withstood the region's tumultuous history. Now, it is looking to attract a new generation of consumers. Hakim Mohamad Said, the younger son, relocated to Pakistan after its formation and left his position at Hamdard India to establish Hamdard Pakistan and manufacture Rooh Afza there. He later became the governor of Sindh province but was tragically murdered in 1998. Following the split of Pakistan in 1971, which resulted in the creation of Bangladesh, the facilities producing Rooh Afza in these regions formed their own trust: Hamdard Bangladesh. The three businesses, each run by extended family members or friends of the young herbalist, are independent but offer similar products with slight variations due to regional climate differences affecting the herbs. The drink is popular in the summer and experiences high demand during the Muslim fasting month of Ramadan. A glass of chilled Rooh Afza can bring a refreshing burst of flavor and energy around the dinner table or in the bazaars at the end of the day. Employees inspect bottles of Rooh Afza at a factory in Gurgaon, India on April 14, 2021. India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh all share a love for the sweet and herbal flavor of Rooh Afza, a beverage that has remained popular despite the region's troubled past. Now, it is looking to appeal to a new generation. In Karachi, Pakistan, Faqir Muhammad, a 55-year-old porter, enjoys a glass of Rooh Afza after breaking his fast during the summer, along with a date to regain some energy. In Gurgaon, India, employees are seen checking bottles of Rooh Afza at a factory on April 14, 2021. Now, the brand is targeting a new generation's taste buds. In Bangladesh, the marketing of the brand goes beyond just flavor and refreshment, delving into the realms of the unexpected and metaphysical. Amirul Momenin Manik, deputy director of Hamdard Bangladesh, claims that Rooh Afza can help COVID-19-infected patients by removing their physical and mental weakness, although no scientific evidence is provided to support this. Many people in Bangladesh reportedly experience heavenly feelings when they drink Rooh Afza, as it is marketed as a halal drink. During a visit to Rooh Afza's India factory in April, workers produced 270,000 bottles a day while wearing full protective gear. The process involved boiling sugar in large tanks, mixing it with fruit juices, and distilling over a dozen herbs and flowers such as chicory, rose, white water lily, sandalwood, and wild mint. Workers at a Rooh Afza factory in India are shown in an image preparing sugar syrup for the popular drink. The beverage, loved in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, has a sweet and herbal flavor that has stood the test of time despite the region's tumultuous history. Now, it is being marketed to a new generation, with trucks loaded with over 1,000 bottles each sent to warehouses and markets across India from dawn to dusk. Ahmed, who manages Hamdard's food division and focuses on Rooh Afza as the main product, is working on expanding the brand by introducing new variations to appeal to consumers who have outgrown the sherbet in their younger years. Some of the new products include juice boxes combining Rooh Afza with fruit juice, a Rooh Afza yogurt drink, and a Rooh Afza milkshake. According to a survey conducted by the company, half of Rooh Afza in Indian households is consumed as a flavor in milk, while the rest is used in cold drinks. Ahmed mentioned that they created a milkshake version with Rooh Afza, milk, and vanilla. Now the company is targeting a new generation's taste buds. (Rebecca Conway/The New York Times) 

Ahmed expressed satisfaction with the success of the milkshake. However, he takes particular pride in two products. One of them is a sugar-free adaptation of the original Rooh Afza, which took 15 years to perfect as the company searched for a suitable sugar substitute. Priced at more than double the original, it is aimed at a wealthier clientele. In New Delhi on April 15, 2021, Muslims in India break their fast during Ramadan with snacks and Rooh Afza. This sweet and herbal beverage is enjoyed in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, and has a long history in the region. Now, Rooh Afza is trying to appeal to a new generation. According to Ahmed, a runner, there is a growing market for health-conscious individuals who monitor their diet. Additionally, there is potential for the original sugary and flavorful Rooh Afza to expand further in India's large market. He is focusing on people who are unable to purchase the 750-milliliter bottle that costs $2, by providing single-use sachets for 15 cents - a method that transformed the accessibility of shampoo brands in India. In many areas of India, the prevalence of malnutrition is so high that sugar is considered desirable. According to Ahmed, "In reality, people in India actually desire sugar. Only those in metropolitan areas are aware of the risks of diabetes." ©2021 The New York Times Company.